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real food Lunds & Byerlys winter 2016 real food winter 2016

Lunds & Byerlys

COMPLIMENTARY

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WINTER 2016

Celebrate the Season

volume 12 number 4

Kick it up a notch with a holiday dinner sure to impress

03

FREE

CAKE MIX AND MATCH: Delectably sweet creations SOUTHERN WARMTH: Soups and stews seasoned with history THE BEAUTY OF BRUNCH: Enjoy the party with make-ahead dishes


E V E R Y H O U S E WA I T S T O B E A

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I T R U S T C R U T C H F I E L D D E R M AT O L O G Y W I T H M Y S K I N .

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Photography by Olivia Crutchfield

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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.


contents

Features 20 Holiday Centerpieces Delicious, approachable dinner dressed to impress throughout the season BY ROBIN ASBELL

30 The Beauty of Brunch Enjoy the party with make-ahead dishes BY MARIE SIMMONS

38 Southern Warmth Soups and stews seasoned with history BY NANCIE McDERMOTT

46 Cake Mix and Match Sweet treats in a variety of tempting combinations RECIPES BY CAROLINE WRIGHT

52 Guy Fieri The energetic chef shares his family-centric take on food BY AUBREY SCHIELD

Departments 4 Bites A fresh, healthy take on dips and spreads RECIPES BY DAWN YANAGIHARA

6 Kitchen Skills Poached pears: Perfect savory or sweet BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Ancient grains: Nutrient-packed staples BY CLAIRE NOACK

18 Healthy Habits Heart-healthy, flavorful dishes RECIPES FROM THE AMERICAN HEART ASSOCIATION

56 Pairings Wine and chocolate: A sweet partnership BY MARY SUBIALKA

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Our Cover

Spinach, Bacon and Bleu Cheese Beef Tenderloin Roast (page 22). Photograph by Terry Brennan

PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITOR LISA MARCHAND ASSISTANT EDITOR AUBREY SCHIELD SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE HANNAH BORMAN EDITORIAL INTERNS CASSIDY FISCHER, LIANNA MATT AND CLAIRE NOACK

VOLUME 12, NUMBER 4 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com C

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The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.


bites

Dip Into Something New A fresh, healthy take on dips and spreads will please any palate

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hile you might hold grandma’s famous mayonnaise-laden dip recipe dear, consider trading it in for a healthier, just-as-tasty option. Nuts, vegetables, cheeses and legumes can create deliciously different flavors and textures in dips and spreads without adding unwanted calories and unhealthy, fatty ingredients. In Dips and Spreads: 46 Gorgeous and Good-for-You Recipes, author and culinary television producer Dawn Yanagihara shares a refreshing take on these party favorites. Inspired by Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and South Asian cuisines, these recipes blend flavors of wholesome, healthful ingredients such as chickpeas, fruits and natural sweeteners with aromatic spices and herbs. And they’re sure to have you coming back for second dunks. —Aubrey Schield

RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM DIPS & SPREADS BY DAWN YANAGIHARA, PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE CAO (CHRONICLE BOOKS, 2015).

Ricotta and Sherried Figs with Orange and Rosemary MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

Creamy and sweet, this dip incorporates hints of citrus and floral flavors. Enjoy with crackers or toasted baguette slices. 1½ 3 ¼ 2 1 5⁄8 ¼ 2

cups whole-milk ricotta cheese ounces dried Mission figs, stemmed and finely diced cup plus 2 tablespoons amontillado sherry tablespoons honey teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced teaspoon fine sea salt teaspoon orange zest, finely grated tablespoons sliced almonds

1. Line a large fine-mesh strainer with a double layer of cheesecloth, leaving about 2 inches of overhang. Set the strainer over a bowl. Put the ricotta in the prepared strainer and cover the surface with the overhanging cheesecloth. Refrigerate overnight. 2. Put the figs in a small heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring the sherry to a simmer over medium heat and then pour over the figs. Stir to moisten all the figs. Cover and let soak overnight at room temperature. 3. The next day, drain the figs in a fine-mesh strainer and pat them dry with paper towels. Reserve 2 tablespoons of figs for garnish. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining figs, drained ricotta, honey, rosemary, salt and orange zest and stir until well blended. 4. Transfer the ricotta to a wide, shallow bowl for serving. Cover and let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. 5. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the almonds, stirring frequently, until golden and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool completely. 6. Sprinkle the ricotta with the toasted almonds, top with the reserved figs, and serve.

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bites

Warm Charred Brussels Sprouts Dip with Ricotta and Bacon MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

Bacon may not be the healthiest item, but we’ll allow it in this hearty dip that infuses roasted Brussels sprouts with flavors of creamy ricotta, green onion and spices. This versatile dip can be served with fresh or toasted baguette slices, chips and crackers. 3 1 1 4 1½ ½ 3 1 2½

slices thick-cut bacon, finely chopped medium garlic clove, minced pound Brussels sprouts tablespoons extra virgin olive oil fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper cups whole-milk ricotta cheese, at room temperature cup plus 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated green onions (white and green parts), thinly sliced teaspoon lemon zest, finely grated tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Position an oven rack in the lower third of the oven. Place a rimmed baking sheet on the rack and preheat the oven to 500°F. Lightly oil a shallow, broiler-safe 4-cup baking dish or gratin dish. 2. In a medium skillet over medium heat, fry the bacon until browned and the fat has been rendered, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic no longer smells raw, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. 3. Trim the bases of the Brussels sprouts and discard any blemished and discolored leaves. If any good leaves fall off, reserve them. Cut each sprout in half lengthwise. 4. Fit a food processor with the medium slicing disk and slice the sprouts and any loose leaves by feeding them through the feed tube. Alternatively, use a sharp chef’s knife to very thinly slice the sprouts and leaves by hand. Put the sliced sprouts in a medium bowl. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Toss until well coated with oil. 5. Carefully remove the hot baking sheet from the oven and empty the sprouts onto it, distributing them in an even layer. Roast the sprouts until they are a mixture of crisp, darkly charred bits and tender green shreds, 13 to 15 minutes, stirring every 4 to 5 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheet. 6. Preheat the broiler. 7. In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, ½ cup Parmigiano, green onions, lemon zest, lemon juice, bacon-garlic mixture, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Stir until well combined. Add the charred sprouts and mix until fully incorporated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper, if needed. 8. Transfer the dip to the prepared baking dish and spread into an even layer, leaving peaks and valleys on the surface for nice browning. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmigiano. 9. Broil the dip until browned on top, sizzling around the edges, and just warmed through, 4 to 5 minutes. Serve hot. ■

TOSTADAS DELUXE

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kitchen skills

Yielding Poached Pears Tender pears are the perfect fruit for poaching and make versatile sweet and savory dishes BY JASON ROSS

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pples are more about crunch and snap, while a tender pear is more of a yielding fruit. Perhaps this is what makes pears so ideal for poaching. An apple relinquishes much of its best attributes of bite and freshness when softened, whereas a pear is already at its best when soft, and poaching enhances flavor and perfume while giving up little in the process. Poached pears are versatile. They do just as well on grilled flat bread pizza as on a cheese board or with a piece of chocolate cake and a bit of syrup. Try keeping a jar of them in your refrigerator this winter; they last up to one week after poaching and enhance many dishes. PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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SELECTING INGREDIENTS FOR POACHED PEARS PEARS Most varieties of commonly available pears poach well including Bartlett, Bosc, Anjou and Comice. If you can find them, Forelle and Seckel are nice and small, and look good on the plate without having to be halved for a more appropriate portion size. For all varieties, select fruit that is not quite ripe. A ripe pear is great for eating out of hand, but if you are not careful, tends to disintegrate in hot poaching liquid. WINE Either red or white wine will work for poaching. Red wines tend to match well with hearty dishes such as steak and blue cheese and give pears a striking deep red color. White wines contrast better with lighter foods such as ice cream and accentuate the pear’s natural honey-colored hues. For both red and white, choose wines that are light and soft in body with lots of fruit and not too much tannin, such as Riesling, Merlot or Grenache. It is best to avoid the more expensive bottles when poaching. AROMATICS The poaching recipe here uses ginger, black peppercorns and vanilla to flavor the poaching liquid, and I love that combination, but there are many other aromatic options you could try. The only warning—like most perfumes, too much is too much so tread lightly and remember you can always add more. Try fresh mint, thyme or rosemary, lemon grass, peeled lemon zest, coriander, star anise and cinnamon bark. Treat them like you would brewing teas—add them and then discard after they have flavored the liquid.


MAKES 8 SERVINGS

4 1 1 2 4 2 2 11⁄2

medium-sized firm pears vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract orange, zest and juice to 3 thin slices fresh peeled ginger to 6 black peppercorns cups water cups wine cups sugar pinch salt

1. Peel the pears, leaving the stem intact, and place them in a mediumsized pot with lid that will fit the pears snugly and keep them covered with poaching liquid as they cook. 2. Split the vanilla bean down its length, and using the back of a paring knife, scrape the pulpy mass from the husk of the bean. Put both pulp and the scraped bean in the pot. If using vanilla extract instead of the bean, add it to the pot. 3. Using a peeler, peel the zest from the orange. Squeeze the juice from the orange into the pot and add the peeled zest. 4. Add the ginger slices and black peppercorns. Pour in the water, wine, sugar and pinch of salt and cover pot. 5. Over medium heat, bring the liquid to a gentle simmer. Pull the lid a little to the side, leaving it ajar, with space for steam to escape. 6. Cook 20 to 30 minutes, depending on size and ripeness, until the pears are tender, stirring and gently rotating the pears a few times throughout the cooking, being careful not to damage the pears as they soften. 7. When done, the pears should yield easily to the point of a paring knife. Look for a soft translucent texture around the exterior of the pears, similar to a boiled potato. If anything, leave the pears a little undercooked, as they will continue to soften a little as they cool. 8. With a slotted spoon, remove the pears to a wide-bottomed bowl. Remove the zest, peppercorns, vanilla bean pod and sliced ginger and discard. Cook the remaining liquid for roughly 10 to 15 minutes at a heavy simmer or light boil, until it thickens into a rich syrup and nearly coats the back of the spoon, or holds its bead when drizzled on a roomtemperature plate. You should have roughly 11⁄2 to 13⁄4 cups liquid when it is done reducing. Pour the warm reduced syrup over the pears and allow them to cool. 9. Serve them at room temperature or store wrapped in a bowl and refrigerate until ready to use. They can be refrigerated up to 1 week.

Poached Pears with Ice Cream Don’t let the luscious syrup from your poached pears go to waste. Drizzle it on vanilla ice cream and pears and top with a little crunchy cookie: Split 2 poached pears in half lengthwise. Using a melon baller, scoop out the seeds in the center. Using a paring knife, trim off the inedible bottom part of the pear; leave the stem on. In a small saucepan over low heat, gently warm the pears in the syrup. Scoop the ice cream into 4 bowls. Place 1 pear half in each bowl and spoon over the warm syrup, about 2 tablespoons for each serving. Top each pear with a crisp cookie, if desired. (Makes 4 servings.)

Arugula Steak Salad with Poached Pears and Blue Cheese MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Poached pears are delicious with savory dishes. A classic combination with blue cheese lends a sweet and salty flavor that makes a great addition to any steak. 1 bag baby arugula, about 6 cups loosely packed ½ cup Pear Vinaigrette (recipe below) ½ teaspoon salt grind of fresh pepper 2 poached pears ¼ pound blue cheese, crumbled 4 steaks, grilled or seared in a pan, as desired 1. In a mixing bowl, toss arugula with Pear Vinaigrette, salt and pepper, and divide onto 4 plates, allowing room for the steak. 2. Split the pears in half lengthwise. Use a melon baller to scoop out the seeds in the center, and use a paring knife to trim off the inedible bottom of the pear and the stem. Slice the halved pears into ¼-inch slices and distribute among the plates, along with the blue cheese and 1 prepared steak per plate.

Pear Vinaigrette MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS, ABOUT 1 CUP

A little syrup goes a long way for flavoring this classic vinaigrette. 1 shallot pinch salt 1 tablespoon cold pear syrup (from the poached pears) 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard grind of black pepper ¼ cup white wine vinegar ¾ cup light flavored olive oil (preferably not extra virgin, which is too strongly flavored) 1. Trim, peel and mince the shallot and put in a medium mixing bowl large enough to whisk all the ingredients for the vinaigrette. 2. Toss shallots with the salt. Wait 5 to 10 minutes until soften. 3. Stir cold pear syrup, Dijon mustard, black pepper and vinegar into the macerated shallots. Slowly whisk in the oil. Store covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. ■ NUTRITION

Wine Poached Pears

ARUGULA STEAK SALAD & VINAIGRETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 566 (313 from fat); FAT 35g (sat. 11g); CHOL 134mg; SODIUM 766mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 51g

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contributors

Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More. She is also the author of The Whole Grain Promise: More Than 100 Recipes to Jumpstart a Healthier Diet; Juice It!; Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta.

Terry Brennan

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis, Minn. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Jason Ross

Marie Simmons

has created recipes and written food articles for dozens of magazines, including Food & Wine, Cooking Light Light, and Eating Well. For more than 15 years, she wrote a monthly column for Bon Appétit Appétit, as well as a weekly column for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. She is the author of more than 20 cookbooks including Taste of Honey, Fig Heaven, The Amazing World of Rice, Things Cooks Love, and her latest, Whole World Vegetarian. She lives in Eugene, Ore. Photograph by Luca Travoto.

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is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minn., home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

Caroline Wright

is the author of Cake Magic!, Twenty-Dollar, Twenty-Minute Meals and a food writer whose work has appeared in Cooking Light, Real Simple, Rachael Ray Every Day, Women’s Day and more. You can follow her at carolinewrightfood.com, on Twitter @TheWrightCook, and on Instagram @WrightCook.

Nancie McDermott

is a food writer and cooking teacher, born and raised in North Carolina. She is the author of 10 cookbooks, including Southern Soups & Stews: More Than 75 Recipes from Burgoo and Gumbo to Etouffée and Fricassee, Southern Cake: Sweet and Irresistible Recipes for Everyday Celebrations, and Southern Pies: A Gracious Plenty of Pie Recipes, from Lemon Chess to Chocolate Pecan (each published by Chronicle Books). Her passion is food and the stories behind its every aspect, from cooks and recipes to ingredients, farming and celebrations. She loves the detective work of researching traditional food in its cultural context.


Lunds & Byerlys welcome

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Expert Holiday Helpers

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he holidays are a favorite time of year for many of us. ’Tis the season for gatherings with family and friends, seeing that extra sparkle in our children’s eyes and taking some added time to reflect on our many blessings. It’s also the season for food questions— lots of food questions. “How do I cook a turkey?” “How much food should I prepare for my party?” “How do I make an impressive cheese platter?” No question is too big or small for our amazingly passionate staff, who thrive on the opportunity to help you take the stress out of preparing and presenting memorable meals for your family and friends. It would take a book to call out the many experts eager and ready to serve you in our stores. Given this isn’t a book, I’ll highlight a few members of our extended family of staff who are very representative of the expertise you will find at every one of our stores. Ken Grogg is the FoodE Expert at our Eden Prairie store. He attended the Hotel Sofitel School of French Culinary Skills and was the chef for three of Minnesota’s governors. Ken was also a culinary instructor at the Art Institutes International Minnesota. Like all of our in-store FoodE Experts, Ken has a wealth of food knowledge, and he’s just a visit or phone call away. And there’s John Magnuson, who is a member of the meat and seafood team at our Burnsville store. John has been masterfully serving our customers for more than 35 years. Customers repeatedly seek out John because of the friendships that have been formed over years of providing trusted guidance on preparing everything from turkey, prime rib and lamb to crab legs, shrimp and lobster. Our meat and

seafood staff has endless preparation tips and techniques to make the food on the center of your plate the centerpiece of your meal. You’ll also find a remarkable level of Tres passion and experLund tise at our specialty cheese counters, where our staff is eager to help you discover cheeses that will have your guests seeking your cheese expertise. Today, eight of our cheese specialists have earned the coveted title of Certified Cheese Professional from the American Cheese Society. This includes Justin Pitman at our St. Louis Park store and Renee Pitman at our downtown St. Paul store. Given the rigorous exam this husband and wife passed to earn the title, I assure you there is likely no cheese-related question they can’t answer. I’m immensely proud of the pride and passion you’ll find throughout every area of our stores. As you’re preparing to celebrate with family and friends this holiday season, I encourage you to turn to our experts to help make your meals the talk of the table. I wish you and your family a safe, fun and memorable holiday season. Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

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Lunds & Byerlys bakery

Sweet Holidays There is always room for a new cookie variety on the dessert table—or mix up your contribution to the cookie exchange this year. Plus cookies make a delicious homemade gift throughout the season.

Raspberry Almond Shortbread Thumbprint Cookies MAKES ABOUT 42 COOKIES, RECIPE ADAPTED FROM LAND O’LAKES

These sweet, buttery treats filled with just a touch of raspberry jam have been a part of holiday celebrations for generations. Cookie 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened ⅔ cup sugar ½ teaspoon almond flavoring 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ cup raspberry jam Glaze 1 cup powdered sugar 2 to 3 teaspoons water 1½ teaspoons almond extract 1. Combine softened butter, sugar and almond flavoring in a medium bowl. Beat at medium speed, scraping bowl often, until creamy. 2. Add flour; beat at low speed, scraping bowl often, until well mixed. Cover; refrigerate at least 1 hour or until firm. 3. Heat oven to 350°F. 4. Using even tablespoons of dough, shape into balls and place 2 inches apart onto ungreased cookie sheets. Make indentation in center of each cookie with thumb. Fill each indentation with about ¼ teaspoon jam. 5. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until edges are lightly browned. Let stand 1 minute on cookie sheets; remove to cooling rack. Cool completely. 6. For the glaze: Combine all ingredients in bowl with whisk until smooth. Drizzle over cookies.

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Chocolate Peppermint Crinkles MAKES ABOUT 40 COOKIES, RECIPE ADAPTED FROM GREENS & CHOCOLATE

A fun peppermint twist on traditional Chocolate Crinkle Cookies that is perfect for the holidays! 1¾ 1½ ½ 8 2¾ ¼ 2 2 2 1 2 1 1

cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt ounces semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped cups granulated sugar, divided cup canola oil tablespoons unsalted butter, melted tablespoons light corn syrup large eggs large egg yolk teaspoons pure vanilla extract teaspoon peppermint extract cup confectioners’ sugar

1. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside. 2. Melt semi-sweet chocolate in microwave on 50% power for 1 minute. Stir, and microwave for 15 more seconds and stir. If still not melted, microwave 15 more seconds, watching carefully! Stir until it has all melted. 3. In a mixer with the paddle attachment, beat together 2½ cups sugar, oil, butter and corn syrup until well combined. Beat in the eggs, egg yolk, vanilla extract and peppermint extract. Then on low, beat in the melted chocolate. 4. Add flour mixture and beat to combine on low speed. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for several hours or overnight. 5. After dough is chilled, heat oven to 325°F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. 6. Place remaining ¼ cup granulated sugar into one bowl and the confectioners’ sugar in another bowl. 7. Take out about one-quarter of the dough at a time to shape. Roll the dough into 2-inch balls and roll each cookie dough ball lightly in granulated sugar first, then heavily into the confectioners’ sugar. (The granulated sugar keeps the confectioners’ sugar from soaking in too much.) 8. Arrange cookies 2 inches apart on the parchment paperlined cookie sheets. For crisp cookies, bake 12 to 14 minutes; for a chewier cookie, bake 10 to 12 minutes.


Lunds & Byerlys meat department

Introducing Bell & Evans Chicken Juicy and flavorful chicken made Bell & Evans the clear favorite in our taste and quality comparisons to bring the best products to our stores. BY SCOTT KERSTING, DIRECTOR OF MEAT & SEAFOOD

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e’re always on the lookout for high-quality, great tasting products and we are excited to introduce you to one of our newest finds: Bell & Evans chicken. Bell & Evans is a family-owned and operated company that has been offering high-quality chicken for more than four generations, and the family’s passion for their business is evident in everything they do. Not only do they offer a superior product today, but they are always looking at ways to enhance their operations to ensure their products taste great and their practices are sustainable and humane. Their focus on sustainability translates to their packaging as well. Bell & Evans created new trays that are made using 50 percent recycled materials and are also recyclable. The new trays are vacuum sealed in order to optimize freshness and make freezing easier. And, as an added bonus, you have the ability to marinate your chicken right in the tray, which means fewer dirty dishes! In an effort to ensure we are bringing you the best product possible, we conducted several taste comparisons. Each time, Bell & Evans was the clear favorite in both taste and quality. As we learned, their air-chilling process retains the natural juices of the chicken, making it juicy and flavorful every time. You can taste the difference. Bell & Evans chickens are raised without antibiotics or feed additives. They are fed a specially formulated vegetarian diet of all-natural grains and plenty of fresh well water. All these factors are important to us and we know they’re important to you, too! Look for Bell & Evans chicken in our meat and seafood department. ■

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Lunds & Byerlys meat department

Turkey Talk

Fresh? Organic? Brined? Lunds & Byerlys has the perfect turkey for your holiday feast. BY SCOTT KERSTING, DIRECTOR OF MEAT & SEAFOOD

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or those of us charged with picking out the turkey this holiday season, we have important decisions ahead of us. Should it be organic, fresh, frozen or brined? And wait—how big should it be? When it comes to your holiday turkey, we’ve got you covered! Whether you’re looking for a whole turkey or a turkey breast, all-natural or organic, Lunds & Byerlys offers a wide range of options that are sure to impress your friends and family at holiday gatherings. Plus, we have incredible in-store FoodE Experts and highly trained meat and seafood staff who can help make your turkey decision easier and answer those all-important questions about preparation. Before you make your holiday shopping list, take a look at some of the impressive turkeys we offer.

LUNDS & BYERLYS FRESH ORGANIC TURKEY: These turkeys are raised locally in Minnesota and are fed a pure organic diet that’s free of gluten, antibiotics and hormones. Available sizes: 10-18 pounds LUNDS & BYERLYS FRESH BRINED TURKEY: These all-natural, free-range turkeys are brined in a spice and herb blend that helps retain their natural juices during the cooking process. Available sizes: 10-24 pounds

LUNDS & BYERLYS FRESH TURKEY: These locally raised turkeys are fresh—never frozen—and have never been fed gluten or hormones. Available sizes: 10-26 pounds

LUNDS & BYERLYS CIDER BRINED TURKEY BREAST: This all-natural turkey breast is brined in cider made from Minnesota apples and is free of antibiotics, hormones and gluten. Average size: 4.75 pounds ■

12 real food winter 2016

Lunds & Byerlys brined turkey

To guarantee a turkey is just the right size for your gathering, place your order today by visiting the meat department service counter at your local Lunds & Byerlys or call 952-548-1400.

RECIPE ADAPTED FROM JUST BARE CHICKEN

LUNDS & BYERLYS FRESH ANTIBIOTIC-FREE ALLNATURAL TURKEY: Raised in Minnesota, these turkeys are never fed gluten. They are also never given antibiotics or hormones. Available sizes: 10-26 pounds


Lunds & Byerlys services

Holiday Helpers Make the season merrier with a little help from Lunds & Byerlys

FOODE EXPERTS Whether you’re seeking menu inspiration for an upcoming holiday gathering or simply need help finding an item, we have FoodE Experts in our stores who have a passion for food and an eagerness to share it with you. Easy to spot in their green coats, our FoodE Experts have one mission—to make your time in our stores and your kitchen more enjoyable. WINES & SPIRITS Our wines and spirits shops offer an impressive selection of wines, liquors and beers from around the world. Our staff is eager to help make your next event memorable. Did you know we also have a wine club? Become a member and take advantage of special discounts and invitations to dinners, tastings and private sales. To learn more, go to LundsandByerlys.com or visit us at Lunds & Byerlys Burnsville, Chanhassen, Downtown Minneapolis, Eagan, Golden Valley, Maple Grove, Plymouth, Ridgedale, St. Louis Park and Woodbury.

HOLIDAY GIFTS Our gift baskets and gift cards are sure to please the food fanatics in your life. A Lunds & Byerlys gift card makes a great holiday gift. To purchase a gift card, stop by our stores or visit LundsandByerlys. com. Need something special for that “hard-to-buy-for” person? Create themed gift baskets with the help of our gift basket shop at Lunds & Byerlys St. Louis Park. Baskets can be picked up from the shop or delivered to a home or business locally or nationally. You can also choose from a wide selection of gift sets and prepared baskets at LundsandByerlys.com/gifts. For more information, call 952-548-5328. ■

CATERING Are you planning an office holiday party or hosting a large family gathering? The experts at Lunds & Byerlys Catering are eager to turn your vision into a reality. Choose from a wide variety of menus in all price ranges and enjoy delicious food, efficient delivery and exceptional service. To speak with a catering expert, call 952-897-9800 or visit Catering.LundsandByerlys.com. FREE KNIFE SHARPENING As you’re slicing and dicing this holiday season, don’t let a dull knife blade slow you down. Our meat and seafood departments offer free knife sharpening. Simply bring in your non-serrated knives and our team will sharpen them within 24 hours. Please note: limit three knives per visit.

Anne, FoodE Expert at Lunds & Byerlys Woodbury

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13


Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

LUNDS & BYERLYS JAMS AND SPREADS Our new collection of jams and spreads includes traditional flavors and fun new favorites that are sure to become breakfast staples. Each bite is bursting with the bright, sweet flavors of fresh sunripened fruit. Varieties include triple berry jam, blueberry spread, strawberry jam, orange marmalade, cherry jam and apricot spread.

Tip: These jams and spreads are delicious served on bagels, croissants or muffins for breakfast. Or, use them as a sweet topping for your favorite ice cream.

INTELLIGENTSIA COFFEE Doug Zell and Geoff Watts, the duo behind Intelligentsia, are on a tireless pursuit to create exceptional coffee. Each year, they collaborate directly with farmers in more than 18 countries to expand economic opportunity, create enduring partnerships and bring you the best coffees imaginable. Varieties include black cat espresso, frequency blend and El Gallo breakfast blend.

Did you know? Intelligentsia is also in pursuit of the perfect espresso. Their Black Cat Project highlights the cultivation, careful sourcing, artisanal roasting and research and development of a variety of delicious espressos.

BISSINGER’S HOLIDAY CHOCOLATES The Bissinger family’s passion is to handcraft the finest chocolate possible—a passion that has endured for more than 350 years. In fact, they still use original recipes from the Bissinger Family Cookbook. Enjoy chocolate peppermint bark, dark chocolate peppermint cashews and other holiday favorites.

Did you know? Bissinger confections were a delicacy among notables such as Napoleon Bonaparte and the Rothschilds. The Bissinger family was even named Confectioner of the Empire by King Louis XIV.

14 real food winter 2016


Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

JAZZY FOODS CRISPY WONTONS Locally produced in St. Paul, Jazzy Foods wontons are fully cooked frozen appetizers that are ready to heat and eat. Each wonton is stuffed with a signature mixture of delicious pork sausage, cilantro and “Minnesota Nice-spiced” cheese that bubbles and browns to perfection. Your guests will think they’re homemade!

Tip: Want more spice? Add a few drops of Sriracha to kick it up. Or, top wontons with fresh cilantro and sour cream for a lighter touch.

LUNDS & BYERLYS ORGANIC PASTAS AND PASTA SAUCES Upgrade your spaghetti night with Lunds & Byerlys Organic Pastas. We offer seven varieties of slow-dried durum wheat pasta made fresh in Italy. Each of the seven varieties is handselected and brings a taste of authentic Italy to the American table.

MOTHER IN LAW’S KIMCHI The beauty of Korea’s kimchi tradition as a fine food inspired founder Lauryn Chun. She began Mother in Law’s with a mission to share authentic kimchi with everyone. Her kimchi, which is made from natural ingredients, is created using a handcrafted process to ensure optimal fermentation and balanced flavors.

Did you know? Mother in Law’s Kimchi gets its name from the Korean tradition in which a new bride learns her husband’s family’s kimchi recipe from her mother-in-law.

Where there’s pasta, there must be sauce. Our Lunds & Byerlys Organic Pasta Sauces are made with USDA-certified organic heirloom tomatoes and extra virgin olive oil. These sauces impart a clean taste with hints of fresh herbs and spices. Flavors include garlic herb, marinara and tomato basil.

Tip: For a simple supper, pair a Lunds & Byerlys Organic Pasta and your favorite Lunds & Byerlys Organic Pasta Sauce and top with freshly grated Lunds & Byerlys ParmigianoReggiano. Serve with a warm baguette and a glass of wine, and you’re ready to eat.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15


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SHAKOPEE


ingredient

Did You Know? Ancient grains including amaranth, millet, oats (not contaminated by wheat), quinoa, sorghum, teff and wild rice are gluten free.

A Rebirth of Ancient Grains Substitute amaranth, farro and more for wheat and processed grains in your favorite recipes

T

IMAGES KATRINSHINE - FOTOLIA.COM

rends have a way of circling back around, and the latest food fad takes you back to ancient times. Unlike modern wheat and processed grains, ancient grains have remained largely unchanged for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Break out the family cookbooks and you might find wholesome grains such as spelt, oats or einkorn in your greatgrandma’s recipes. The versatility of ancient grains makes them well suited for whipping up food from every culture around the world. These protein-packed grains also keep you full longer, provide nutrients and have many potential health benefits, including lowered blood pressure and cholesterol. According to the Whole Grains Council, many ancient grains need less irrigation, fertilizer and pesticides to thrive—making them a great option for environmentally-minded consumers. Western cultures have largely ignored some ancient grains until recent years, but they are now more readily available. Perhaps it’s time you give these exotic ingredients a try. AMARANTH A staple of Aztec culture, this grain was used centuries ago for both food and religious practices. Amaranth is a pseudo-grain, similar to quinoa and buckwheat, and has a lively, peppery taste. It is extremely high in protein and contains calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. Amaranth can be added in cookie batters, sprinkled on salads, used in porridge, stirred into soups or popped and enjoyed like popcorn. Tip: To cook amaranth, the council suggests using at least 6 cups of water for every 1 cup of grains, as the cooking liquid will thicken. Use a fine-mesh strainer to remove excess water and rinse off before using in your recipe.

FARRO Also known as emmer, farro comes from an ancient strain of wheat found in the Fertile Crescent. This ancient grain was grown in the Mediterranean and served as daily rations to Roman soldiers. Farro has a nutty, chewy taste and is high in fiber, protein, iron, magnesium and zinc. It also contains lignans, which are high in antioxidants. Farro can be cooked like rice, added to salads or used in recipes such as risotto. It is found in semolina flour, which is commonly used to make pasta. Tip: When buying farro, look for whole or wholegrain varieties. Pearled farro strips away some of the natural nutrients. MILLET The world’s oldest grain, millet has been referenced in ancient Chinese texts and the Bible. It is a good source of fiber, protein, magnesium, manganese, phosphorus, copper and lignans. Millet, commonly found in birdseed, was unused as a cooking ingredient in Western cultures until recently. It can be used as a rice substitute in soups, stir-fries and curries. Tip: Like other grains, millet can spoil if not stored properly. Store in the refrigerator to keep fresh for 2 to 3 weeks, or freeze for 3 to 4 months. —Claire Noack

winter 2016 real food 17


healthy habits

At the Heart of Health Keep your heart strong with tasty dishes served best with a smile and a side of dark chocolate

B

reakfast, positivity, chocolate and walking—what common thread could there possibly be? It turns out they’re all good for your heart. While a well-rounded diet and regular exercise are known for keeping your heart strong, studies over the last several years have revealed additional ways to help your ticker keep on, well, ticking. Enjoying a square breakfast and maintaining a sunny outlook on life can do the trick, as can snacking on dark chocolate and taking a walk after dinner. These simple adjustments might mean the world of difference for a person’s quality of life and are easy supplements to other life choices recommended by the American Heart Association. For instance, a standard rule of thumb is to maintain a diet rich in fruits and vegetables, whole grains, low-fat dairy products, and lean meats and fish. It is also important to avoid added sugars and limit sodium and saturated and trans fats. Following are picture-perfect entrées for a healthy heart and a satisfied stomach. —Lisa Marchand

PHOTOS AND ADAPTED RECIPES COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN HEART ASSOCIATION. FOR MORE RECIPES AND LIFESTYLE TIPS FROM AHA, VISIT HEART.ORG/RECIPES.

Couscous-Stuffed Acorn Squash SERVES 4

½ ½ 4 2 1 1 ¼ ¼ 1 1½ ¼ 1 ¼

cup boiling water cup couscous small acorn squash, 1 to 1¼ pounds each tablespoons canola oil, divided cup celery, chopped (about 4 stalks) onion, finely diced teaspoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon sage cups frozen, thawed, chopped spinach cup unsalted, chopped walnuts tablespoon maple syrup cup reduced-fat blue cheese crumbles

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat water to boiling using either a teapot or the microwave. In a bowl or heat-proof container, combine boiling water and couscous. Cover and let sit 10 minutes. 2. Prepare each acorn squash: Cut off about 1 inch of the top from each squash; use a spoon to scoop out the seeds and discard them. Use a knife to slice a sliver off the bottom of each squash so they stay upright as they cook. Place each acorn squash bottom onto a foil-lined baking sheet. Reserve. 3. Meanwhile, warm 1 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Add celery, onion, salt, pepper and sage, stirring occasionally and sautéing until softened, about 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in thawed spinach, stirring and cooking until spinach is fully thawed and heated, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in reserved couscous, remaining 1 tablespoon canola oil, walnuts and maple syrup. 4. Pack about 1 cup of stuffing into the cavity of each acorn squash. Top each squash with its lid. Bake in the oven until squash is tender, about 60 to 75 minutes. Remove acorn squash lid and top with blue cheese. Serve.

18 real food winter 2016


Classic Margherita Pizza MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Pizza Crust 2¼ teaspoons dry yeast ¼ teaspoon sugar 1½ cups warm water 2½ plus ¼ cup all-purpose flour, divided 1 cup whole-wheat flour 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil or vegetable or canola oil ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon fresh, finely chopped rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 4 teaspoons minced garlic nonstick cooking spray

Pizza and Toppings 1 12-inch whole-wheat pizza crust (recipe above) ¼ cup low-fat, part-skim ricotta cheese ¾ cup low-moisture, part-skim mozzarella cheese, shredded 1½ cups diced, fresh tomatoes or 8 ounces canned, no-salt-added, diced tomatoes, drained 2 tablespoons fresh basil, coarsely chopped or torn into pieces 1 teaspoon dried basil nonstick cooking spray 1. For the Pizza Crust: Combine dry yeast, sugar and water in a large bowl. Lightly spoon flour into measuring cups and level off using a knife. Add both types of flour, oil and salt to yeast mixture. Stir with spatula or wooden spoon until all ingredients are mixed well. 2. On a well-floured surface (use all-purpose flour), turn dough out and knead with hands until dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. While you are kneading the dough add additional flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, so the dough is more manageable. Dough should feel slightly sticky and tacky.

3. Place dough in a large bowl that is coated well with cooking spray. Sprinkle rosemary and garlic over dough and knead lightly one more time, until slightly incorporated into dough. Spray once more over dough ball and cover. Let dough rise in a warm place (85°F) such as a cupboard or pantry for about 45 minutes. Dough is ready when it has doubled in size and an indent remains after pressing two fingers into it. 4. While dough is rising, make sauce. In a small saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil and cook garlic and onion until soft but not brown. Add remaining sauce ingredients, reduce heat and simmer for about 15 minutes. Set aside. 5. When dough is ready, punch down dough by inserting fist into dough ball and releasing some of the air. Cover and let rest another 5 minutes. Divide dough ball in half. 6. On a floured surface roll one half of dough into a 12-inch circle. Reserve second half of dough and freeze for later, or double the sauce recipe and toppings to make a second pizza. 7. Preheat oven to 450°F. 8. Line a baking sheet with foil and spray with cooking spray. Carefully transfer pizza dough onto prepared sheet. Layer dough with pizza sauce, cheese, tomatoes and basil. 9. Bake 18 to 22 minutes. Pizza is ready when crust is golden brown and cheese is bubbly. Watch closely. ■

NUTRITION

Pizza Sauce 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil ½ small onion, chopped (about 1⁄4 cup) 1 clove fresh garlic, minced or 1 teaspoon jarred, minced garlic 8 ounces canned, no-salt-added tomato sauce 2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped, or 2 teaspoons dried basil 1⁄8 - 1⁄4 teaspoon crushed red pepper (depending on your spice preference)

COUSCOUS-STUFFED ACORN SQUASH: PER SERVING: CALORIES 381; FAT 14g (sat. 5g); CHOL 4mg; SODIUM 285mg; CARB 62g; FIBER 9g; SUGAR 14g; PROTEIN 10g

MARGHERITA PIZZA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 170; FAT 5g (sat. 2g); CHOL 9mg; SODIUM 123mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 3g; PROTEIN 8g

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Holiday Centerpieces Your dinner can be dressed to impress with a delicious menu that is easier than you think—especially when you can make much of it in advance BY ROBIN ASBELL

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS 20 real food winter 2016


winter 2016 real food 21


T

he holiday season is prime time for entertaining. Whether

or extended family, there is ample

Spinach, Bacon and Bleu Cheese Beef Tenderloin Roast

opportunity to share a festive meal.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

You will need some show-stopping

For a full-on savory main course, try this impressive beef roast filled with bacon- and bleu cheese-infused spinach for the bleu cheese lovers in the crowd. Serve with roasted potatoes or crusty rolls for mopping up any extra sauce.

you are hosting friends, coworkers

dishes that are both impressive and holiday-themed enough to serve anytime or even in place of the traditional turkey or ham dinner. Nothing impresses quite like a hefty cut of meat, artfully stuffed, rolled and tied. Here you have two options—or make them both. The pork tenderloin pairs sweet fruit and holiday spices with a tangy cranberry sauce. For the beef lovers, a purely savory stuffing of bacon, bleu cheese and spinach fills a tender cut of beef, and a creamy sauce gives it a photo finish. The vegetarians in your circle will appreciate the Cauliflower Steak with Sage Pesto and Red Pepper Drizzle, and the “steaks” make an impressive side dish for those eating the beef or pork. Little stuffed potatoes offer an alternative to the everyday baked potato. Caramelized onions in the quick bread lend a rich and soulful flavor, especially with a smear of cranberryspiked butter. And mini-salad in lettuce leaves adds flair to the table. You don’t need to settle for ordinary when it comes to holiday entertaining— just a few simple tricks can kick it up a notch.

22 real food winter 2016

2 3 8 1 2 1 2

pounds beef tenderloin, trimmed of fat slices smoked bacon, diced ounces baby spinach, washed and dried, coarsely chopped ounce (about 1⁄4 cup) bleu cheese tablespoons Dijon mustard tablespoon white wine tablespoons olive oil

Bleu Cheese Sauce 2 ounces (about 1⁄2 cup) bleu cheese 1⁄4 cup mayonnaise 1⁄4 cup sour cream 1⁄2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1. Cut tenderloin from top to bottom, through center to within 3⁄4-inch of bottom. Open the tenderloin like a book and slice into each half lengthwise down the middle, not cutting all the way through, making the tenderloin into one piece that opens up to lie flat. When pounded out it will make one thin piece that is easy to roll up. Open and place a piece of wax paper or parchment over the tenderloin and press down with your palms, then use a meat hammer or the bottom of a small pot to gently pound the tenderloin to an even 3⁄4 inch thickness. Reserve. 2. In a large skillet over medium heat, sauté diced bacon until golden brown. When fat is rendered and bacon is crisp, add spinach and cook until bright green and wilted, about 3 minutes. Cool spinach to room temperature. 3. Place spinach-bacon mixture over tenderloin, then sprinkle with 1 ounce (about 1⁄4 cup) of the bleu cheese. Roll tenderloin, jelly-roll fashion. Tie with kitchen twine in 4 places to fasten tightly. 4. In a small bowl mix together mustard and wine. Rub over tenderloin. At this point, the meat can be covered and refrigerated overnight, if desired; bring the meat to room temperature 1 hour before cooking. 5. Preheat oven to 425°F. 6. Return skillet to medium heat for 1 minute. Add olive oil, and place tenderloin, seam side down, in skillet; brown on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Place tenderloin on a small roasting pan and put in oven. Roast until medium-rare, about 30 minutes, or until internal temperature is 135°F on an instant-read thermometer. Let tenderloin rest 12 to 15 minutes, loosely covered with aluminum foil, before slicing. Slice into 6 to 8 pieces across the meat’s grain, and serve immediately with Bleu Cheese Sauce. 7. For sauce: Stir together the bleu cheese, mayonnaise, sour cream and Worcestershire sauce until well mixed. Mash some of the bleu cheese, and leave some lumps intact. Allow to come to room temperature before serving.


SPINACH, BACON AND BLEU CHEESE BEEF TENDERLOIN ROAST AND MAPLE ROASTED SQUASH AND KALE SALAD IN LETTUCE CUPS WITH MAPLE BLACK PEPPER VINAIGRETTE (RECIPE PAGE 29)


CINNAMON APPLE PORK TENDERLOIN WITH CRANBERRY SAUCE


Cinnamon Apple Pork Tenderloin with Cranberry Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The delicate flavor of lean pork tenderloin marries perfectly with fruit, and the apple cinnamon stuffing has a teasing resemblance to apple pie. The sautéed fruit also keeps the lean pork moist from within and a tangy cranberry sauce ties it all together. 1 1 1 1 3⁄4 2 1⁄4

pound pork tenderloin, 1 medium up to 11⁄2 pounds tablespoon butter large Granny Smith apple, peeled and chopped teaspoon cinnamon, divided teaspoon salt, divided tablespoons light brown sugar, divided cup walnuts, finely chopped canola oil, for coating/rubbing pork

Sauce 1 cup cranberries 1⁄2 cup chicken stock 1⁄4 cup red wine 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon water 1⁄2 teaspoon cornstarch 1. Prepare pork for rolling. With a sharp slicing knife, cut lengthwise down the middle of the tenderloin, leaving 1⁄3 inch uncut. Open the tenderloin like a book and slice into each half lengthwise down the middle, not cutting all the way through, making the tenderloin into one piece that opens up to lie flat. When pounded out it will make one thin piece that is easy to roll up. Place a sheet of wax paper over the pork and pound with a meat hammer or small saucepan to flatten slightly. Reserve pork. 2. Preheat the oven to 375°F. 3. In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the apples and stir for about 5 minutes, until the apples are softened. Sprinkle in 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon brown sugar. Stir to coat, and then stir in walnuts. Remove from heat and transfer apple filling to a bowl to cool. 4. In a small bowl, mix the remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon brown sugar and reserve. 5. Spread the apple filling on the pork, leaving an inch bare on one side, then roll the pork like a cinnamon roll. If desired, tie the loin with string. Drizzle with a few drops of canola oil and rub to coat. Rub the brown sugar and cinnamon mixture over the outside of the tenderloin. 6. Place seam side down on a roasting pan. Roast until internal temperature reaches 160°F, about 40 minutes. Pour the pan juices into a small saucepan for the sauce. Let tenderloin rest for 10 minutes before slicing. 7. For sauce: In the saucepan with the pan juice, place the cranberries, chicken stock, red wine, brown sugar, black pepper and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat as needed to keep the mixture at a boil but not boiling over. Cook for about 5 minutes to reduce the liquids and soften the cranberries. In a small cup, stir the water and cornstarch, then whisk into the sauce. Whisk the sauce over medium heat until thickened. Remove from heat. Makes about 3⁄4 cups. 8. Slice the pork into 12 slices. Serve 3 slices per person, spoon cranberry sauce over the pork to serve.

PARTY PREP

The key to pulling off a fun dinner party is knowing what you can do ahead of time. Beef Tenderloin/Pork Tenderloin: The Bleu Cheese Sauce for the Beef Tenderloin can be made up to two days in advance. Each tenderloin can be stuffed, rolled and tied a day ahead of time and brought to room temperature before cooking on the day of the party. Caramelized Onion Quick Bread: The cranberry butter can be made up to one week ahead. The onions can be made a few days ahead of time. The bread can also be baked a day ahead, and kept tightly wrapped, at room temperature. New Potatoes Stuffed with Broccoli, Ham and Cheddar: These can be stuffed up to two days before baking. Cauliflower Steaks with Sage Pesto and Red Pepper Drizzle: The sauces can be made up to two days ahead of time. The steaks can be seared and baked a day ahead and reheated prior to serving. Maple-Roasted Squash and Kale Salad: Bake the squash cubes and make the dressing up to two days ahead of time. You can prep/ massage the kale four hours prior to serving. Store premade items in the refrigerator unless otherwise noted.

winter 2016 real food 25


Cauliflower Steaks with Sage Pesto and Red Pepper Drizzle

New Potatoes Stuffed with Broccoli, Ham and Cheddar

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

The cauliflower “steak” has appeared on restaurant menus in part as a celebration of “plant-forward” cuisine and in part to offer a vegetarian option. It is a showy dish because you present a thick slice of cauliflower, seared and roasted to sweet perfection, topped with a colorful sauce. Give each diner a steak knife to slice off bites of the “steak.” You’ll have plenty of cauliflower florets left over—save them for salads, soups and stir-fries.

Try small new potatoes stuffed with tasty ham, broccoli and cheese for a more interesting alternative to everyday baked potatoes. This way you can have four little potatoes full of goodies instead of one big one. If you want to leave out the ham, they will still be delicious.

3 small cauliflowers 1 tablespoon canola oil Sage Pesto 2 tablespoons fresh sage 1⁄2 cup fresh parsley 1⁄2 cup pecans 1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1⁄2 teaspoon salt Red Pepper Drizzle 1 7-ounce jar roasted peppers, drained and patted dry 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 pinch salt 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Hold the whole cauliflower on its side, with the base perpendicular to the cutting board, and slice the stem flush with the bottom of the cauliflower. Trim away all the leaves and discard. Stand the cauliflower up on the stem end, and hold the cauliflower steady as you slice two even 1- to 1½-inch wide slices from the center. Slice straight down and divide the stem in half between the two slices. Save the remaining cauliflower florets for another use. 3. Place two large sauté pans or cast iron pans on the stove over medium-high heat. Pour 1⁄2 tablespoon canola oil in each pan and heat for a few seconds. Place the cauliflower steaks in the pans and sear for about 2 minutes per side until well browned. Transfer to two baking sheet pans. Bake the browned steaks for 20 minutes, until a paring knife inserted in the stem goes in with no resistance. 4. While the steaks bake, make the sauces. (These can also be made a day ahead, if desired.) 5. For the Sage Pesto: Place the sage, parsley and pecans in the bowl of a food processor. Process for about 1 minute, until well minced. Add the olive oil and salt and process until smooth. 6. For the Red Pepper Drizzle, place the drained peppers, honey, lemon juice, cayenne and salt in the processor and purée until smooth. 7. When cauliflower is baked, remove from oven and keep warm. To serve, place a piping hot cauliflower steak on each plate, then spoon about 11⁄2 tablespoons of sage pesto over it, spreading the sauce but leaving the browned edges of the cauliflower visible. Drizzle red pepper sauce over the pesto in a decorative way, then serve.

26 real food winter 2016

2 1⁄2 1⁄2 3⁄4 1 4 2 4

pounds new potatoes, such as Yukon Gold cup sour cream teaspoon black pepper teaspoon salt tablespoon unsalted butter ounces sliced ham, chopped cups broccoli floret, chopped finely ounces (about 1 cup) sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Place the potatoes in a large pot and add water to cover by 1 inch. Place on the stove over high heat; cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to hold at a simmer and set a timer for 10 minutes. Start testing the smallest potatoes by piercing in the center with a sharp paring knife. As the potatoes become tender, place them in a colander in the sink. Once they are all cooked, rinse with cool water. 3. When cool enough to handle, use a small spoon to scoop out the flesh of the potatoes, leaving a shell of potato about 1⁄4 inch thick. Place the potato flesh in a large bowl as you go. Place each hollowed out potato in a large gratin dish or a 9x13-inch baking pan. The potatoes should fit in tightly and stand up when all are in the pan. 4. Mash the potato flesh with a potato masher or fork. Stir in the sour cream, pepper and salt, and reserve. 5. In a large sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add chopped ham and broccoli and stir until the broccoli is bright green and slightly softened. Remove from heat and add to the potato mixture along with 3⁄4 of the shredded cheddar. 6. Use the spoon to fill the potatoes, mounding the filling and rounding it with the palm of your hands. There will be some extra filling, just put it in a ramekin and bake it with the potatoes. 7. Sprinkle filled potatoes with the remaining cheddar. The recipe can be made up to this point and covered tightly, then refrigerated for up to 2 days if desired, or proceed to baking. 8. Bake at 400°F for 25 minutes, until the cheese is melted and lightly golden. Serve immediately.


CAULIFLOWER STEAKS WITH SAGE PESTO AND RED PEPPER DRIZZLE AND NEW POTATOES STUFFED WITH BROCCOLI, HAM AND CHEDDAR

winter 2016 real food 27


CARAMELIZED ONION AND THYME QUICK BREAD WITH CRANBERRY BUTTER


Caramelized Onion and Thyme Quick Bread with Cranberry Butter MAKES 10 SERVINGS

Truly caramelizing onions takes some time, so you can do it a day ahead, if it makes it easier. You will be glad you took the time, as this loaf is sweet and tender, thanks to the deeply flavorful sweet onions and the yogurt. Slice thickly, so it won’t crumble, and let the cranberry butter soften so it spreads easily. 3 3 2 1 3 2 1 1⁄2 2 1⁄2 1⁄2 3⁄4

tablespoons unsalted butter large onions, chopped cups unbleached flour cup whole-wheat pastry flour tablespoons fresh thyme, coarsely chopped teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt large eggs cup honey cup canola oil cup plain yogurt

Cranberry Butter 1 stick unsalted butter 1⁄4 cup dried cranberries, minced 1 tablespoon honey 1 pinch salt

NUTRITION

1. Grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan with shortening or non-stick cooking spray and reserve. 2. In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and stir. Cook about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onions are softened and starting to turn golden. Lower heat to medium-low and stir every 10 minutes for at least 1 hour. They should shrink down to 1 cup. 3. Measure 1 cup of the onions and allow to cool completely. You can make the onions up to 4 days ahead of time and chill, tightly covered, until time to bake. Bring onions to room temperature before adding to the batter. 4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 5. In a large bowl, stir the unbleached and whole-wheat flours, thyme, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk to mix. 6. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs. Add the honey, canola oil and yogurt and whisk until smooth. Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture just until most of the flour is moistened. Fold in onions. 7. Scrape batter into the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Bake 45 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out with no wet batter clinging to it. Cool in pan on a rack for 10 minutes before slicing. 8. For the Cranberry Butter: Allow butter to soften at room temperature. Mince the cranberries and reserve. Place the butter and honey in a food processor bowl and process until the butter is soft and creamy and the honey is mixed in; scrape down and process again as needed. Add the cranberries and salt and process to mix well, scraping down and repeating until mixed. Transfer to a small jar. Makes about 3⁄4 cup.

BEEF TENDERLOIN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 393 (253 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 10g); CHOL 105mg; SODIUM 426mg; CARB 2g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 33g

PORK TENDERLOIN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 313 (113 from fat); FAT 13g (s a t . 4 g) ; C H O L 7 7 m g ; SODIUM 692mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 27g

CAULIFLOWER STEAKS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 227 (161 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 317mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 4g

Maple Roasted Squash and Kale Salad in Lettuce Cups with Maple Black Pepper Vinaigrette MAKES 5 SERVINGS

This sweet and peppery salad is packed with tender squash cubes, crunchy walnuts and pops of cracked black pepper. It is delicious on its own and gets a special presentation in little lettuce cups. These can also serve as “finger food” as you can pick them up and finish them in a couple bites. 2 1⁄4 2 1⁄4 1 4 1⁄4 1⁄2 1⁄2 1 2

pounds butternut squash, cubed (6 cups) cup extra virgin olive oil, divided teaspoons fresh thyme leaf, coarsely chopped cup pure maple syrup, divided teaspoon salt, divided ounces baby kale (4 cups) cup fresh lemon juice cup walnuts, halves and pieces, toasted cup shredded Parmesan cheese teaspoon cracked black pepper heads baby Bibb lettuce

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Peel, seed and cube the squash. Spread 2 tablespoons of the olive oil on a sheet pan and place the cubed squash on it, then sprinkle with thyme and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the maple syrup. Sprinkle with half of the salt and toss the cubes to coat. Bake for 20 minutes, until a paring knife inserted into a squash cube meets no resistance. Remove from oven and cool completely on a rack. Chill, if desired. This can be done up to 3 days ahead, and kept, tightly covered, in the refrigerator. 2. For the salad: Sliver the kale with a sharp knife and place in a large bowl. Whisk the remaining olive oil, maple syrup, salt, and lemon juice in a cup. Pour over the kale and massage the leaves, vigorously squeezing and kneading the mixture until the kale softens and turns dark green, about 3 minutes. Add the cooled squash, walnuts, Parmesan and cracked pepper and toss to mix. 3. Carefully separate the lettuce leaves, and gently swish them in a bowl of cold water. Pick out the 12 smallest, most cupped leaves, and save any leftover for another salad. Use a spoon to place a heaping 1⁄4 cup of kale salad in each lettuce cup, then place the lettuce cups on a platter, or individual plates. Serve immediately. ■

NEW POTATOES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 280 (118 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 7g); CHOL 44mg; SODIUM 672mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 12g

QUICK BREAD W. BUTTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 457 (225 from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 9g); CHOL 72mg; SODIUM 270mg; CARB 53g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 7g

SQUASH & KALE SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 326 (179 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 4g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 645mg; CARB 32g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 8g

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The Beauty of Brunch Savor a leisurely meal throughout the holiday season BY MARIE SIMMONS

CRANBERRY BREAD PUDDING WITH CINNAMON AND WALNUT STREUSEL TOPPING

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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A

combination of breakfast and lunch—both typically eaten on the run—becomes a more leisurely, congenial meal when it’s called brunch, making it the perfect choice for entertaining during the holidays.

Because it is neither breakfast nor lunch the possibilities for the menu are endless. We feature recipes that range from a sweet taste of the season in cinnamon cranberry bread pudding to savory dishes including a Dutch baby pancake, twice-baked goat cheese soufflés and deliciously spicy chilaquiles (pronounced chee-lah-KEE-lehs) with chorizo. Plus, each recipe benefits from being partially or fully prepared a day ahead of time requiring a warm up or unattended baking time before guests arrive. By doing as much of the prep ahead as possible you’ll be free to relax and savor good food and precious time with your friends and family.

Cranberry Bread Pudding with Cinnamon and Walnut Streusel Topping

Cinnamon Custard Sauce

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

This rich, festive bread pudding made with cinnamon swirl bread or any firm-type of sliced white bread is sure to be a crowd pleaser. If preferred you could use any thick fruit jam—strawberry, raspberry or fig jam—in place of the cranberry sauce, and in the streusel topping, almonds can take the place of walnuts. The pudding is equally delicious with or without the Cinnamon Custard Sauce. This dish benefits from assembling a day ahead, left to soak overnight and baked the next day.

1½ 1 3 ¼ 1

4 8 1 4 1⁄3 ½ 2 ½ 1

tablespoons butter, melted slices firm cinnamon swirl bread cup whole cranberry sauce large eggs cup granulated sugar teaspoon cinnamon cups whole milk cup heavy cream teaspoon vanilla extract

Streusel Topping ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into ½ inch pieces ½ cup chopped walnuts

1. In a small saucepan or skillet melt the butter. Coat a shallow 2-quart baking dish with half of the butter. Cut half the bread slices to fit snugly in the pan. Spread the cranberry sauce over the bread. Top with the remaining bread slices cut to fit. Brush tops of the bread with remaining melted butter. 2. Whisk the eggs, sugar and cinnamon in a large bowl until well blended. Gradually whisk in the milk and heavy cream. Stir in the vanilla extract. Pour evenly over the bread in the baking dish and press down with the back of a fork to submerge the bread. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight. 3. Make the Streusel Topping: Combine the flour, brown sugar and cinnamon in a food processor; pulse to combine. Add the butter, a few pieces at a time, pulsing after each addition until mixture is crumbly. Spoon into a medium bowl and add the walnuts. Rub mixture with fingertips to form clumps. 4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Sprinkle the streusel topping evenly over the bread pudding. Set the baking dish in a large baking pan and add boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake until the top is golden and the edges of the pudding are browned, 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes or longer before serving. Excellent served both warm and at room temperature with or without Cinnamon Custard Sauce.

cups whole milk (3-inch) cinnamon stick large egg yolks cup sugar teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Combine the milk and cinnamon stick in a small heavy saucepan and heat until small bubbles appear around the edges. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand for 1 hour. 2. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl until well blended. Remove the cinnamon stick from the milk and gradually stir the milk into the egg mixture. Return to the saucepan and cook over medium– low heat, stirring gently until the mixture coats the back of a spoon and reaches 165°F to 170°F. Do not boil. 3. Set a strainer over a bowl and strain the custard. Add the vanilla. Refrigerate until ready to serve. 4. To serve, reheat in a small heavy saucepan over low heat, stirring constantly until warmed.

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CHILAQUILES AND CHORIZO PLATTER

Chilaquiles and Chorizo Platter MAKES 4 SERVINGS

There are many versions of chilaquiles. Some consist of crisp tortilla chips topped with sauce and scrambled eggs. This version is made in a casserole for easy serving. It is an ingenious dish that uses up day-old tortillas. I like to think of it as the Mexican version of a savory bread pudding. The fried tortillas can be made a day ahead, as well as the deliciously spicy sauce, which only needs to be reheated. 1 poblano chile, roasted and peeled 12 ounces raw chorizo sausage, casings removed, sausage crumbled vegetable oil, as needed ½ medium onion, cut into thin lengthwise slivers 1 tablespoon finely chopped jalapeño 1 garlic clove, grated or finely chopped 1 teaspoon plus pinch coarse salt 1 teaspoon dried Mexican or Italian oregano 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes in juices, puréed in food processor or through food mill

1 8 ½ ½ 1 ½ ½

teaspoon minced chipotle chile with adobo sauce day-old corn tortillas (6-8 inches), cut into 1 inch pieces cup shredded mozzarella or Monterey Jack cheese cup crumbled Mexican cotija or feta cheese lime, cut into 4 wedges cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems cup Mexican crema or sour cream

1. Preheat the broiler. Place the poblano chile on a sheet of foil and place it on a sheet pan. Broil the chile, turning it once or twice until the skin is evenly blistered. Remove from the broiler and wrap the foil around the chile. Let stand until cool enough to handle. Then carefully pull off the skin, slit the chile, remove the stem and lift out the seeds. Coarsely chop the chile and set aside. 2. Crumble the chorizo in a large deep skillet and cook, stirring until browned. Drizzle with vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, to moisten the chorizo if needed. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened. Add the jalapeño, garlic, salt and oregano and stir over medium-low heat 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, reserved chopped roasted poblano chile and chipotle chile and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook the sauce until thickened, about 15 minutes. 3. While the sauce is simmering, fry the tortillas: Have ready several pieces of paper toweling spread out on a tray and a perforated spoon or skimmer. Heat 1 inch of vegetable oil in a deep heavy skillet until hot enough to sizzle a small piece of tortilla. Add 1⁄3 of the tortillas and fry, stirring, until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove from the oil with the perforated spoon or skimmer to the paper towels. Repeat with the remaining 2⁄3 of the tortilla squares. Sprinkle lightly with a pinch of coarse salt; set aside. 4. Just before serving stir half of the fried tortillas into the sauce and cook, stirring, about 2 minutes. If the sauce isn’t too thick stir in the remaining fried tortillas. If the sauce appears to be thick enough, serve the remaining tortillas in a bowl as a snack. 5. Spoon the chilaquiles onto a large deep platter. Sprinkle the cheeses over the top and garnish with lime wedges and cilantro. Serve with a side bowl of Mexican crema or sour cream to spoon onto each serving. If using sour cream whisk in 1 to 2 tablespoons of milk to thin.

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EGGS BAKED IN ZUCCHINI RAGU, SHOWN WITHOUT MOZZARELLA TOPPING (RECIPE PAGE 35)

winter 2016 real food 33


DUTCH BABY WITH SMOKED SALMON AND DILL BUTTER

34 real food winter 2016


Dutch Baby with Smoked Salmon and Dill Butter

Eggs Baked in Zucchini Ragù

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Whole eggs nestled in a thick zucchini ragù in a stovetop-to-oven skillet or baking dish will emerge from the oven perfectly cooked. The ragù can be made ahead and reheated before baking the eggs. Make the ragù with different vegetables depending on the season. Consider cubed winter squash, potatoes, chopped Swiss chard or kale, and browned crumbled Italian sausage cooked with red bell peppers and onions. The addition of vinegar will heighten the flavors.

Thin, eggy batter is poured into a hot skillet and quickly baked until the edges puff or “pop” up, which is why this is sometimes called a popover pancake. It is served with strips of smoked salmon drizzled with dill butter. This can be baked while your guests gather round anticipating its dramatic appearance. As an alternative, use pieces of frizzled prosciutto topped with curls of Parmesan (see Cook’s Note). For a sweet version, drizzle with warm honey, maple syrup or jam. 5 large eggs 1 cup milk 1 cup all-purpose flour pinch of salt 7 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill plus sprigs for garnish 5 ounces smoked salmon, cut into ½ inch strips 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place an 8- to 10-inch iron or other heavy skillet with a heatproof handle in the oven to heat. 2. Whisk the eggs and milk in a large bowl until well combined. Sift the flour over the milk mixture and add the salt. Whisk until the batter is smooth. 3. Remove the hot skillet from the oven. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter and swirl to cover the surface of the skillet. Add the batter all at once and immediately return the skillet to the oven. Bake until the pancake puffs up around the edges, 18 to 20 minutes. 4. In a skillet or small saucepan, melt the remaining butter. Remove from heat and add the chopped dill. Place the salmon strips randomly on the pancake. Spoon the dill butter over the top. Cut into wedges and serve while hot.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

3 1 1 3 1 ½ ¼ 3 2 1 4 1 ¼

tablespoons extra virgin olive oil medium onion, coarsely chopped rib celery with leafy top, sliced (1⁄4 inch) garlic cloves, bruised with side of knife teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon coarse salt teaspoon crushed red pepper (or to taste), optional freshly ground black pepper, to taste cups (2-3 medium) cubed (1⁄2 inch) zucchini cups canned diced tomatoes with juice tablespoon red wine vinegar large eggs cup coarsely shredded mozzarella cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1. Combine the olive oil, onion, celery and garlic in a 10-inch skillet with oven-proof handle. Add oregano, salt, crushed red pepper, if using, and a grinding of black pepper. Heat, stirring, over medium heat until onion begins to sizzle. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook the vegetables until softened, but not browned, about 5 minutes. 2. Add the zucchini and stir until the vegetables are blended. Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Stir in the vinegar. Cover and simmer 5 minutes or until the zucchini is tender. 3. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Make 4 indentations, evenly spaced, in the vegetables. Break the eggs, one at a time into a cup and slip an egg into each indentation. Sprinkle the cheeses over the vegetables and the eggs. 4. Bake until the eggs are set to desired doneness and the cheese is melted, 12 to 15 minutes.

Cook’s Note: To make a frizzled prosciutto and cheese variation (ingredients at right), cut 2 or 3 prosciutto slices into pieces about ½ inch wide and 1 inch long. Heat about ½ inch of oil in a medium skillet until hot enough to sizzle a piece of prosciutto. Add the prosciutto a few pieces at a time. Do not crowd. Remove to a strainer set over a bowl as the pieces crisp. Before serving the Dutch Baby sprinkle the crisped prosciutto evenly over the top. Add curls of grated Parmesan. Omit the dill butter.

winter 2016 real food 35


TWICE-BAKED GOAT CHEESE SOUFFLÉS WITH DRIED TOMATO CREAM SAUCE

36 real food winter 2016


Twice-Baked Goat Cheese Soufflés with Dried Tomato Cream Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

You can make these individual soufflés a day ahead and refrigerate until just before serving. They will fall when chilled but will puff up when reheated. Serve with the Dried Tomato Cream Sauce or if preferred, serve each on a bed of lightly dressed salad greens. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter fine dry breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup milk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon coarse salt freshly ground black pepper 3 large eggs, separated, plus 1 white, at room temperature 6 ounces goat cheese, cold, crumbled or cut into small pieces ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

1. Position oven rack in lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Brush a light film of melted butter in four 8-ounce ramekins; reserve remaining butter. Sprinkle ramekins with breadcrumbs; shake out excess; place ramekins in a roasting pan. Set a kettle of water on to boil. 3. Add the flour to remaining butter. Cook, stirring constantly, over low heat for 3 minutes; slowly whisk in milk. Cook, stirring with a whisk until mixture boils. Simmer, stirring gently, 3 minutes; add mustard, salt and pepper; remove the sauce from the heat. 4. In medium bowl whisk egg yolks until blended. Add a small amount of the hot sauce to the yolks to temper; whisk to blend. Whisk remaining sauce into yolks until blended. Gently stir in the cheese. 5. In a large bowl of an electric mixer combine the egg whites and cream of tartar. Beat on medium low speed until soft peaks form; continue beating on a slightly higher speed until peaks are stiff and smooth. Do not over beat. If whites break into clumps, it means the whites are overbeaten and the soufflé won’t rise. With a rubber spatula, transfer about 1⁄3 of the beaten whites to

the cheese sauce mixture and gently fold until blended. Then add the lightened cheese mixture to the remaining whites and gently fold until blended. 6. Spoon the mixture into the ramekins, distributing it evenly. Run a fingertip around the inside of the rim of each ramekin so that soufflés will form a high hat as they puff up. 7. Place the roasting pan in the oven and carefully add enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the soufflés are puffed and browned, 25 to 30 minutes. These can be served immediately, if preferred. Or, remove from the oven and let stand in a water bath for 10 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool to room temperature; the soufflés will shrink. Transfer to a sheet pan, cover with foil and refrigerate, several hours or overnight. 8. When ready to bake the soufflés position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Using a thin spatula, carefully loosen the sides of the soufflés from the ramekins. Lift the soufflés (they will be surprisingly sturdy) from the ramekins and place, puffed side up, on the sheet pan. If any of the soufflé sticks to the ramekin, loosen with the spatula and stick it onto the side of the soufflé. Bake until soufflés are puffed and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. 9. While soufflés are baking make the sauce: Place the dried tomatoes in a small bowl and cover with ½ cup boiling water. Cover and let stand about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan bring cream to boil, stirring often and adjusting heat (the boiling cream has a tendency to boil over) until reduced by half to ¾ cup, 12 to 15 minutes. Stir the tomatoes and soaking liquid into reduced cream and boil until the sauce has thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in herb of choice. Spoon sauce over baked or re-baked soufflés or serve on the side. Sauce can be made 1 to 2 days ahead; reheat gently before serving. ■

BREAD PUDDING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 605 (288 from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 16g); CHOL 176mg; SODIUM 350mg; CARB 68g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 11g

DUTCH BABY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 456 (258 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 15g); CHOL 298mg; SODIUM 385mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 20g

NUTRITION

Dried Tomato Cream Sauce 2 tablespoons chopped dried tomatoes 11⁄2 cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon, basil or parsley

CUSTARD SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 84 (32 from fat); FAT 4g (sat. 2g); CHOL 82mg; SODIUM 26mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 3g

CHILAQUILES PLATTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 639 (397 from fat); FAT 45g (sat. 17g); CHOL 98mg; SODIUM 1791mg; CARB 36g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 27g

EGGS IN RAGU: PER SERVING: CALORIES 331 (207 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 8g); CHOL 209mg; SODIUM 740mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 18g

GOAT CHEESE SOUFFLÉS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 638 (513 from fat); FAT 58g (sat. 36g); CHOL 315mg; SODIUM 619mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 18g

winter 2016 real food 37


Southern Warmth Grab your spoons for a taste of soups and stews seasoned with history from the melting pot of the American South BY NANCIE McDERMOTT


VIRGINIA BROCK’S GEORGIA-STYLE BRUNSWICK STEW (RECIPE PAGE 45)

winter 2016 real food 39


FRED THOMPSON’S CAROLINA SEAFOOD MUDDLE


T

hroughout the region we now call the American South, long before anyone put a sharpened feather to parchment paper and penned observations about it, nourishing soups and hearty stews were bubbling

away on wood-fueled fires. In ceramic vessels, redware stewpots, three-legged pipkins, bulge pots and enameled Dutch ovens, Southern cooks have been simmering and stirring for centuries, adjusting the heat of campfires, stoking the embers on open hearths, and feeding sticks into wood-burning cast-iron stoves. They were stewing and braising, winter and summer, long before the counties, towns and states we now call home showed up on any map. Cherokee, Lumbee, Tuscarora, Seminole and Choctaw people cooked fresh and dried beans, squash, hominy and green corn. Newcomers from the British Isles, Europe, West Africa and the Caribbean Islands cooked greens, field peas, potatoes and pumpkins, stretching wild game, shellfish and salted meats to satisfy an abundance of eaters around great tables. They paired their long-tended handiwork with corn cakes, grits, biscuits and rice. As the nation grew, this process of invention and evolution grew right along with it, creating a culinary repertoire of soups and stews that continues to this day.

Fred Thompson’s Carolina Seafood Muddle SERVES 8

All along the North Carolina coastline, and up through the sounds and inlets where saltwater and freshwater meet, countless species of fish and seafood thrive. This abundance has kept home cooks, families and community groups busy for too many years to count, hauling in the day’s or season’s best catch and getting it to the table. Fred Thompson grew up in Johnston County, N.C., closer to Raleigh and the Piedmont than to the Outer Banks, but years of fishing trips and research for his numerous cookbooks have made him an honorary “banker.” Fred loves to stir up a muddle—a big mess of seafood cooked in a great cauldron over glowing coals. I’m so glad he translated his rustic muddle into a stovetop iteration, with saltwater flavor and the traditional garnish of hard-boiled eggs. Stock up on saltine crackers to go along with your muddle, or serve cornbread with lots of butter. ½ 2½ 1 3 3 2 2 1 1 1 1 1½ 1 ½ 8 ¼ ¼

pound sliced thick-cut bacon cups chopped onions tablespoon chopped garlic cups chopped tomatoes, with juice cups peeled, thinly sliced red potatoes cups bottled clam juice tablespoons apple cider vinegar or white vinegar teaspoon dried thyme or 1 tablespoon fresh thyme teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground pepper teaspoon dried red pepper flakes pounds snapper, halibut, grouper, bass or cod, cut into 1½-inch chunks pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined pound bay scallops eggs cup thinly sliced green onions cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. In a Dutch oven or a large, heavy pot, cook the bacon until it is crisp and nicely browned, turning it often. Leaving the grease in the pot, transfer the bacon to a plate to cool, and then crumble or chop it into small pieces. 2. Heat the pot over medium-high heat and add the chopped onions. Toss them and cook until they are fragrant, shiny and softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and toss it well.

3. Add the tomatoes, potatoes, clam juice, vinegar and 3 cups water and stir them together. Add the thyme, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Let the muddle come to a lively boil, and then adjust the heat to maintain a visible simmer. Cover and cook, stirring it once or twice, until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. 4. Add the fish, placing it in a single layer on top of the vegetables. Place the shrimp all over the stew, and scatter in the bay scallops as well. Then add water as needed to just cover the fish, but not the shrimp. Cover and cook it undisturbed, until the fish are opaque and flaky and the shrimp are bright pink, 3 to 4 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, crack four of the eggs into small bowls. When the shrimp are pink, uncover the muddle, and gently slide the eggs in on the surface of the soup, one by one, placing them evenly around the edges of the pot. Repeat with the remaining four eggs, and then cover and cook them for 11⁄2 to 2 minutes. Scoop a little soup stock over the poaching eggs. Scatter the reserved bacon, green onions and parsley over the soup. When the eggs are poached, quickly scoop them out into individual serving bowls. Ladle out the seafood muddle over the eggs, making sure each bowl gets beautiful chunks of fish, bright pink shrimp and little scallops. Serve hot or warm.

winter 2016 real food 41


Sheri Castle’s Watauga County Chicken Stew with Fluffy Dumplings SERVES 8

Chicken Stew 3¾ pounds whole chicken 4 cups Chicken Stock (recipe right) 3 cups very coarsely chopped whole onions, peel and all, plus 1 cup chopped 2 cups very coarsely chopped carrots, washed but not peeled, plus 1½ cups chopped 2 cups very coarsely chopped celery, including leaves, plus ¾ cup chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 6 fresh thyme sprigs, plus 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves 2 to 3 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon butter or vegetable oil ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper Dumplings 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon sugar ¼ cup butter, cut into small cubes and chilled 2 tablespoons lard, vegetable shortening or butter, chilled ¾ cup half-and-half, evaporated milk or milk ½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. To make the stew: Place the chicken in a large Dutch oven or stockpot and add the stock, coarsely chopped onions with peels, coarsely chopped carrots, coarsely chopped celery with leaves, garlic, thyme sprigs, 1 teaspoon of the salt and enough water to cover the chicken. Bring it to an active boil over medium-high heat. As soon as it boils, lower the heat to maintain a gentle but visible simmer until the chicken is cooked to the bone, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a large platter or bowl, leaving the chicken broth and vegetables in the Dutch oven. Remove the skin and

42 real food winter 2016

bones from the chicken and add them to the broth. Continue cooking the broth over medium heat for 45 minutes more. 2. Meanwhile, shred or chop the chicken into big, bite-size pieces. Cover and refrigerate it. Strain the broth into a large bowl and discard the bones and vegetables. Measure the broth; you should have about 8 cups. If you don’t have that much, add water to make 8 cups. 3. Heat the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the chopped carrots, chopped onion, chopped celery, thyme leaves and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; stir to coat. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Add the reserved broth and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. 4. Season with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, if needed, and the pepper. Stir in the reserved chicken and heat it through. Keep the stew warm over low heat. 5. To make the dumplings: Put the flour, salt, baking powder and sugar in a medium bowl. Use a pastry blender or your fingertips to work in the butter and lard until the mixture is crumbly and flecked with thin flakes of fat. When pressed against the back of your thumb, a bit of the mixture should cling like a small leaf. Slowly stir in the half-and-half. The dough should be soft and sticky, but firm enough to hold together on a spoon. 6. Bring the chicken stew to a low boil over mediumhigh heat. Stir in most of the parsley, reserving a generous pinch to add at serving time. 7. Using a 1-ounce scoop or two spoons, make golf ball–size dumplings from the soft dough and place them gently on the surface of the stew, spacing them evenly around the pot. 8. Cover the pot and cook until the dumplings are firm, fluffy and fairly dry on top, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle the reserved parsley over the dumplings and serve at once.

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My friend Sheri Castle grew up near the town of Boone, in Watauga County, N.C., and though she has long lived down in the flatlands of the Piedmont, her “mountain DNA” adds deep flavor to her writing and recipes. I love her chicken and dumplings recipe, which is different from what my grandmother made. “There are as many ways to make chicken and dumplings across the South as there are ways to fry the bird,” Sheri notes. “Local loyalties run deep, and people have their favorites. The style used in this recipe hails from my pocket of the Blue Ridge Mountains. We make fluffy biscuit-like dumplings and let them float like clouds atop a simple stew studded with chunks of chicken, bright-orange carrots and flecks of herbs. This dish is so comforting that it feels restorative.” It would be lovely for someone who is under the weather, but it’s fantastic when you’re well, too. This has some steps, but not one of them is difficult or finicky, and the results repay you for every moment and each effort. Such beautiful soup—bubbling up around the fluffy dumplings, perfuming your kitchen, evoking grins from everyone at your table.


Chicken Stock MAKES 8 TO 10 CUPS

Making stock from scratch calls for a modest expenditure of energy and time, but that outlay toward procuring ingredients and tending a kettle goes a long way and yields generous rewards. Cooking the soups and stews in this book will leave you with many of the essential ingredients for great stock, while giving you dozens of reasons—as in recipes—to be grateful you have it on hand. Papery amber onion skins from chopping onions, feathery celery leaves and knobby chunks, carrot tops and peelings, and meaty chicken bones can all team up to flavor your stock. Use chicken legs, wings, backs and necks, or substitute two meaty carcasses from roasted chickens. Avoid giblets and organ meats, as well as green bell peppers and cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage, and kale, because they do not improve in flavor when cooked for a long time. Bay leaves and peppercorns add depth of flavor, as do fresh or dried herbs, which can be added to the stock or simply included in the ultimate destination, a soup or stew you will be making soon. Once you’ve launched a batch on the stove, you need only check in occasionally, and then pack it up and make storage space for it once it is done and cooled. 4 pounds chicken pieces, such as wings, backs, necks and legs 3 cups very coarsely chopped onions, including skins 2 cups very coarsely chopped carrots, washed but unpeeled 1 cup very coarsely chopped celery, with leaves 1 teaspoon salt 1 gallon water 1. In a large stockpot, combine the chicken pieces, onions, carrots, celery, salt and water. Bring them to a gentle, lively boil over high heat. Skim off the clouds of foam that float up to and bob on the surface, placing them in a bowl. When the foam has stopped rising, discard the contents of the bowl and lower the heat to maintain a gentle, visible simmer. Fat adds flavor, so leave it in the stock for now. 2. Let the stock simmer, uncovered, for 3 to 4 hours. Remove it from the heat and let it come to room temperature undisturbed. Strain the stock through a wire-mesh strainer into a large container. Cover and refrigerate it for up to 3 days, leaving the fat on top. (It will set up into a golden lid that you can easily move aside when you want to measure out and use some or all of the stock.) 3. To freeze the stock, remove the fat, reserving it for frying and sautéing. Divide the stock among tightly covered containers in useful amounts: quarts, pints or cups. Or freeze it in ice-cube trays or muffin tins and gather frozen stock cubes into zip-top plastic freezer bags. Seal them airtight and freeze for up to 2 months.

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Chicken and Sausage Gumbo, Cajun-Style SERVES 10 TO 12

Chocolate brown, earthy, and spiked with thyme and three kinds of pepper, this gumbo earns back every second of effort you put into the pot, from chopping your seasonings and measuring out spices to stirring away on your roux. If you make it and serve it straightaway, you will be glad you didn’t have to wait to savor it. If you can cook it a day in advance, you will love how its flavors blossom. A bit of a resting time in the refrigerator allows your gumbo to cut loose, to stretch out, to meander from tasty to operatically magnificent. It means that as serving time approaches, you have had the opportunity to rest up, cook some rice, set out some libations and crank up some music. You and your guests will surely want to dance; it is just that good. While rice is the classic gumbo accompaniment, you may enjoy the highly favored Louisiana alternative of sweet and creamy Creole potato salad with your gumbo: It’s another extraordinary way to go. 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 2 3½ 1 1 ½

cup vegetable oil cup all-purpose flour cup chopped onion cup finely chopped celery cup finely chopped green bell pepper tablespoons finely chopped garlic teaspoons dried thyme, or 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground pepper teaspoon sweet or hot paprika teaspoon cayenne pepper quarts Chicken Stock (recipe page 43) pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken legs and thighs pound Cajun-style andouille sausage, smoked kielbasa or other smoked sausage cup thinly sliced green onions, plus more for garnish cup finely chopped fresh parsley rice for serving

1. In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, preferably cast iron or enamel cast iron, or a large cast-iron skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. When a pinch of flour blooms on the surface when added to the oil, scatter in

the flour and stir quickly and thoroughly, combining the oil and flour evenly into a thick, smooth roux. Continue cooking, stirring often, as the roux turns from pale yellow to a rich, deep brown, 20 to 35 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed to keep the roux darkening slowly, without bubbling up or burning. It should be darker than peanut butter, about the color of coffee with some cream, a deep brown but not a dark brown. 2. Add the onion, celery and bell pepper to the Dutch oven and stir well, heating them up and coating them with the roux. Let them cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are fragrant, softened, shiny and evenly coated with the roux, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne; stir well and cook for 2 minutes more. If using a cast-iron skillet, transfer the roux to a large stockpot. 3. Add the chicken stock, stir well, and bring it to a lively boil, stirring often to dissolve the roux into the stock. When everything is boiling nicely, add the chicken pieces. When the stock returns to a rolling boil, adjust the heat to maintain a lively simmer and cook, stirring now and then, until the chicken is cooked through and very tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. 4. Meanwhile, chop the andouille into bite-size pieces. Halve each link lengthwise, and then cut it crosswise into half-moon slices about 1⁄4 inch thick. 5. Remove the chicken from the pot and set it out on a platter to cool. As soon as it is cool enough to touch, pull the meat from the bones, discarding the bones and skin. Tear or chop the chicken very coarsely, and then return the meat to the pot. Add the andouille and stir. Cook, stirring now and then, until the sausage has seasoned the gumbo and softened, and everything has come together into a rich, flavorful, slightly thickened stew, about 30 minutes more. 6. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the green onions and parsley. Serve the gumbo in bowls over rice or with rice on the side, garnished with green onions.

EXCERPT FROM SOUTHERN SOUPS & STEWS BY NANCIE MCDERMOTT, PHOTOGRAPHS BY LEIGH BEISCH (CHRONICLE BOOKS, 2015).

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Virginia Brock’s Georgia-Style Brunswick Stew SERVES 12 TO 15

My friend Wendell David Brock is a magnificently talented cook as well as a fine journalist, so when he invited me over for his mother’s signature Brunswick stew, I replied with a swift and eager “Yes!” I loved every bite, even though it is not the Piedmont, N.C.–style stew on which I was raised. Mrs. Brock’s recipe reflects her roots in the state of Georgia, with the inclusion of pork and ground beef, English peas and creamed corn. Hers is a stove-top version, though it’s hardly petite. Wendell pestered his mom for her recipe just a few years back and reported, “I got worried that I would never be able to re-create the flavor of my mom’s wonderful Brunswick stew. Turns out that her secret ingredient comes out of a bottle—it’s Kraft Hickory Smoke Barbecue Sauce. You can use any kind of sauce you like, but your stew won’t taste like Virginia Brock’s.” The recipe makes a considerable amount, calling for a 12-quart stockpot. I divided it into a half-portion and found myself with a perfect and still generous amount of stew, but know that you can double this if your guest or gift list requires a truly gracious plenty.

NUTRITION

3½ pounds boneless pork, preferably Boston butt, shoulder or country-style ribs 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 pounds ground beef 1 pound ground turkey 1 28-ounce can whole peeled plum tomatoes, with juice 1 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes, with juice 1 20-ounce bottle hickory-smoked barbecue sauce 1 14½-ounce can cream-style corn 1 14½-ounce can whole-kernel corn, or 1½ cups frozen corn 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco or Texas Pete 1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper 2 teaspoons salt 2 15-ounce cans English peas, drained, such as Le Sueur, or 2 cups frozen peas 1. Place the pork in a large stockpot or Dutch oven (cut into chunks if need be). Cover the pork with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Skim off any foam as it rises to the top dur-

ing the first 15 or 20 minutes. Then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the meat is tender enough to pull apart using two forks, 2 to 3 hours. 2. When the meat is done, transfer it to a large platter and allow it to cool to room temperature. Pull it apart and chop it roughly into small pieces. 3. While the pork is cooking, heat a large skillet over mediumhigh heat and add the vegetable oil, swirling to coat the pan. Crumble in the ground beef and turkey and cook them, turning and pressing to cook them evenly. When all the meat is cooked through, remove it from the heat and set aside. 4. In a large Dutch oven or a stockpot, combine the pork, beef and turkey. Add the whole and chopped tomatoes, barbecue sauce, cream-style and whole-kernel corn, Worcestershire, hot sauce, pepper and salt. Place the pot over medium heat and bring it to a lively boil, stirring often. 5. When the stew is bubbling hot, lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Stir and scrape the bottom to prevent the stew from sticking or burning. About 5 minutes before serving time, add the peas to the stew and stir gently to mix them in evenly. Cook the stew for 5 minutes more and serve it hot. ■

CAROLINA SEAFOOD MUDDLE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 517 (268 from fat); FAT 30g (sat. 11g); CHOL 317mg; SODIUM 831mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 40g

CHICKEN & SAUSAGE GUMBO W/O RICE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 486 (324 from fat); FAT 36g (sat. 9g); CHOL 70mg; SODIUM 855mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 25g

CHICKEN STEW W. FLUFFY DUMPLINGS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 424 (175 from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 9g); CHOL 97mg; SODIUM 1389mg; CARB 33g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 29g

GEORGIA-STYLE BRUNSWICK STEW: PER SERVING: CALORIES 510 (221 from fat); FAT 25g (sat. 8g); CHOL 114mg; SODIUM 1257mg; CARB 35g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 38g

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Cake Mix & Match Delightful possibilities start with a core cake and mix it up with flavorings, frostings and festive toppings RECIPES BY CAROLINE WRIGHT

Âť Lemon Pucker Cake

Lemon Cake, Lemon Syrup (right), and Lemon Pudding Frosting made with homemade Lemon Pudding (page 48) serve up a fresh, sunny dessert

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C

ake brings people together. As a focus of special celebrations from birthdays, weddings and anniversaries to holidays and more it holds a special place at the table. And it’s easier to make than you might think.

Here, starting with an easy from-scratch core cake mix, you can make delicious cakes and cupcakes including fruity, chocolaty or salted caramel treats. Each recipe includes a flavored syrup, which is the professional baker’s secret weapon that imbues the cake with additional flavor and moisture. Creamy frostings add a delectable layer and toppings sprinkle on a touch of magic. These are a taste of the many mix-and-match possibilities for creative combinations featured in Cake Magic! by Caroline Wright that are tailored to satisfy every sweet tooth, not to mention provide that focus for your celebration, a treat for any day or a great homemade gift.

Lemon Pucker Cake MAKES ONE 8- OR 9-INCH TWO-LAYER CAKE, 16 SERVINGS

31⁄2 2 1⁄4 1⁄4 3⁄4 1

LEMON PUCKER CAKE RECIPES BY CAROLINE WRIGHT, CAKE MAGIC, AND WORKMAN PUBLISHING. IMAGES BY WATERBURY PUBLICATIONS, PHOTOGRAPHER KEN CARLSON.

3 4

unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the pans all-purpose flour, for dusting the pans cups dry Cake Magic! Cake Mix (recipe right), whisked well before measuring tablespoons finely grated fresh lemon zest teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda cup whole milk cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, or 1 cup vegetable oil tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice large eggs, at room temperature

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter the bottom and side of the pans. Dust with flour to coat, then invert and tap out any excess. 2. Whisk together the Cake Mix, lemon zest, baking powder and baking soda in a large bowl. Stir in the milk, butter, lemon juice and eggs until moistened and no lumps remain (be careful not to overmix). Divide the batter between the prepared pans. 3. Bake until the layers are evenly golden brown and a few moist crumbs cling to a skewer inserted in the center of the cake, 32 to 36 minutes. 4. While the cake bakes, prepare the Lemon Syrup (right) and set aside. After removing cake from the oven, apply syrup (see “For the Syrup” box below). 5. Make Lemon Pudding Frosting (recipe page 48). After cake has cooled completely and no longer wet to the touch (1 to 2 hours), frost cake. Cook’s Note: If you would like to split a 2-layer cake into a 4-layer cake, it is best done with fully cooled cakes that have not yet been pierced and soaked with syrup. Insert a toothpick in the side halfway between the top and bottom of cake. Rotate the cake a few inches and repeat until the whole cake is studded with toothpicks. Rest a serrated knife on top of the toothpicks, and use their placement as a guide as you saw inward toward center of cake.

Cake Magic! Cake Mix MAKES 4 CUPS (ENOUGH FOR ONE 8- OR 9-INCH TWO-LAYER CAKE, ONE 13 X 9-INCH SHEET CAKE, ONE 10-INCH BUNDT CAKE, OR 24 CUPCAKES)

21⁄2 11⁄2 3⁄4 3⁄4 1

cups all-purpose flour cups sugar teaspoon baking soda teaspoon baking powder teaspoon table salt (see Note)

1. Place all of the ingredients in a large bowl and whisk together well to combine. Whisk the mix again before measuring. Note: It’s important to use table salt in the cake mix; other types will eventually settle out of the mix.

Lemon Syrup MAKES 1 CUP

1⁄2 cup sugar 1⁄2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice pinch of salt 1. Combine the sugar, juice and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Use the syrup warm or let it stand, covered, until it reaches room temperature.

For the Syrup While the cake bakes, prepare the syrup according to recipe instructions and set aside. After removing cake from the oven, pierce each layer (still in the pans) at 1-inch intervals with a skewer or paring knife. Pour or brush the syrup over the cake, dividing it evenly over layers. Set cake aside, in the pans, on a wire rack to cool completely. (The syrup will soak into the cake.)

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Lemon Pudding Frosting MAKES 4 CUPS

11⁄2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1⁄2 cup Lemon Pudding (recipe below; see Note) pinch of salt 4 cups (1 16-ounce box) confectioners’ sugar 1. Combine the butter, Lemon Pudding, salt and 2 cups of the sugar in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the remaining sugar and beat on medium speed until the frosting is very light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Note: I urge you to make the Lemon Pudding because it makes this frosting utterly irresistible, but if you’re pressed for time or ingredients, feel free to use store-bought lemon curd in its place.

Lemon Pudding MAKES 1 CUP

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest 1⁄2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch pinch of salt 6 large egg yolks 1⁄2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 6 lemons) 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. Combine the lemon zest, sugar, cornstarch and salt in a medium saucepan. Whisk in the egg yolks and lemon juice until combined and cook, stirring constantly, over low to medium heat until pudding is thick and velvety, about 10 minutes. 2. Remove the pudding from heat, then stir in butter and vanilla until incorporated. Let the pudding cool completely before using (it will thicken significantly as it cools). Lemon Pudding will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Use chilled or at room temperature.

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Darkest Chocolate Cake MAKES ONE 8- OR 9-INCH TWO-LAYER CAKE, 16 SERVINGS

unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the pans 1⁄2 cup sifted, unsweetened cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting the pans 4 cups dry Cake Magic! Cake Mix (page 47), whisked well before measuring 1⁄4 teaspoon baking soda 4 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted and cooled (see Cook’s Notes below) 3⁄4 cup full-fat plain yogurt (preferably not Greek yogurt, see Cook’s Notes below) 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, or 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup water 4 large eggs, at room temperature 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter the bottom and sides of the pans. Dust with cocoa powder to coat, then invert and gently tap out any excess. (If making cupcakes, use liners instead of greasing and coating the tins.) 2. Whisk together the 1⁄2 cup cocoa powder, Cake Mix and baking soda in a large bowl to combine. Stir in the melted chocolate, yogurt, butter, water and eggs until moistened and no lumps remain (be careful not to overmix). Divide the batter between the prepared pans. 3. Bake until the layers are domed and fragrant and a few moist crumbs cling to a skewer inserted in the center of the cake, 35 to 40 minutes. 4. While the cake bakes, prepare the Coconut Syrup according to recipe instructions (below) and set aside. After removing cake from the oven, apply syrup (see “For the Syrup” box page 47). 5. Make Malted Vanilla Frosting (recipe page 49). After cake has cooled completely and no longer wet to the touch (1 to 2 hours), frost cake. 6. Use about 3 cups flaked or shredded coconut to coat the cake and sprinkle between layers. Cook’s Notes: For the yogurt: If you want to substitute strained yogurt, like Greekstyle, it should be thinned with a bit of milk or water to approximate the consistency of regular yogurt prior to using in the recipe. To melt chocolate: Place chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on medium about 1 minute, then stir. Continue to heat at about 15 second intervals, stirring in between, until the chocolate is almost melted, about a total of 2 minutes. Avoid overheating.

Coconut Syrup MAKES 1 CUP

1⁄2 cup sugar 1⁄2 cup full-fat coconut milk 1⁄4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut pinch of salt 1⁄2 teaspoon pure coconut extract 1. Combine the sugar, coconut milk, shredded coconut and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, stir in the coconut extract, and set aside to steep, covered, for at least 20 minutes. Strain the coconut from the finished syrup. Use the syrup warm or at room temperature.


» Hostess Cake

Darkest Chocolate Cake (page 48), Coconut Syrup (page 48), Malted Vanilla Frosting (below) and flaked or shredded coconut atop frosting and sprinkled between layers make a delicious treat

Malted Vanilla Frosting MAKES 4 CUPS

11⁄2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 3⁄4 cup malted milk powder pinch of salt 4 cups (1 16-ounce box) confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract 1. Combine the butter, malted milk powder, salt and 2 cups of the sugar in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the remaining sugar and beat on medium speed until the frosting is pale and no longer grainy, about 2 minutes. Add the vanilla and beat until the frosting is very light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.

Make-Ahead All syrups and frostings will keep, in an airtight container in the refrigerator, for up to 1 week. Reheat syrup in a small saucepan over low heat before using. Before using frosting, bring it back to room temperature and stir it vigorously or beat it again for best results.

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» Mix and Match Cupcakes START WITH THE VANILLA CAKE, ADD IN DIFFERENT SYRUPS AND CROWN WITH VARIOUS FROSTINGS AND TOPPINGS FOR DELICIOUS OPTIONS

Horchata Caramel

Vanilla Cake with cinnamon (below) Sweet Cream Syrup (page 51), topped with Salted Caramel Frosting (page 51) and sliced almonds

Cookies and Cream

Vanilla Cake (below), Sweet Cream Syrup (page 51), Malted Vanilla Frosting (page 49) and Chocolate Cookie Crumble (page 51) to top

Blackberry Buttermilk

Vanilla Cake with buttermilk (below), Blackberry Syrup (page 51), Cream Cheese Frosting (page 51) and a fresh blackberry or dusting of confectioners’ sugar, if desired

Vanilla Cake MAKES 24 CUPCAKES

4 cups dry Cake Magic! Cake Mix (recipe page 47), whisked well before measuring 3⁄4 cup full-fat plain yogurt (preferably not Greek yogurt, see Cook’s Notes page 48) 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, or 1 cup vegetable oil

3⁄4 cup water 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 4 large eggs, at room temperature

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 muffin tins with paper liners. 2. Place the Cake Mix in a large bowl. Stir in the yogurt, butter, water, vanilla and eggs until moistened and no lumps remain (be careful not to overmix). Divide the batter among the muffin tins (about 1⁄3 cup for each cupcake). 3. Bake 20 to 25 minutes until domed and golden brown, and a few moist crumbs cling to a skewer inserted in the center of the cupcake. 4. While the cupcakes bake, prepare either the Sweet Cream Syrup or Blackberry Syrup (recipes right) according to recipe instructions and set aside. 5. Remove cupcakes from oven and cool in tins for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. 6. While the cupcakes are still warm, use a skewer to pierce them all over at 1-inch intervals. Pour or brush the syrup over the cupcakes, dividing evenly. Set the cupcakes aside to cool completely. The syrup will soak into cupcakes. 7. While cupcakes are cooling, make frosting of choice. When the cupcakes are cool and no longer wet to the touch, about 1 hour, frost the cupcakes. Scatter the frosted cupcakes with toppings, if using. Blackberry Buttermilk: Substitute buttermilk for yogurt. Horchata Caramel: Whisk 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon into the Cake Mix before adding the remaining ingredients.

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Blackberry Syrup

Cream Cheese Frosting

MAKES 1 CUP

MAKES 4 CUPS

1⁄2 cup sugar 1⁄2 cup water 2 tablespoon seedless blackberry jam pinch of salt 1⁄2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. Combine the sugar, water, jam and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then stir in the vanilla. Remove from the heat and set aside to steep, covered, for at least 20 minutes. Strain the syrup. Use the syrup warm or at room temperature.

Sweet Cream Syrup MAKES 1 CUP

1⁄2 cup sugar 1⁄2 cup heavy (whipping) cream pinch of salt 1⁄2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. Combine the sugar, cream and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, stir in the vanilla, and set aside to cool. Use the syrup warm or let it stand, covered, until it reaches room temperature.

Chocolate Cookie Crumble MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

2 cups crushed chocolate wafers (about 1 9-ounce package) ¼ cup malted milk powder 2 tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt 6 tablespoons (3⁄4 stick) unsalted butter, melted

NUTRITION

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Combine the chocolate wafer crumbs, malted milk powder, sugar and salt in a large bowl and toss to combine. Drizzle the melted butter over the crumb mixture and stir until clumps form. 3. Scatter the clumps onto the prepared baking sheet in a single layer. Bake 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely before using. The crumble will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

LEMON PUCKER CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 576 (283 from fat); FAT 32g (sat. 19g); CHOL 160mg; SODIUM 281mg; CARB 70g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 5g

HOSTESS CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 656 (321 from fat); FAT 37g (sat. 23g); CHOL 125mg; SODIUM 328mg; CARB 79g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 6g

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 3 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature pinch of salt 4 cups (one 16-ounce box) confectioners’ sugar 1⁄2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Salted Caramel Frosting MAKES 4 CUPS

11⁄2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1⁄2 cup Salted Caramel (recipe below), plus extra for swirling, if desired 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt 4 cups (1 16-ounce box) confectioners’ sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract For the Cream Cheese or Salted Caramel Frostings: 1. Combine the butter, either cream cheese or caramel (depending on recipe), salt, and 2 cups of the sugar in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer on low speed until incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the remaining sugar and beat on medium speed until the frosting is pale and no longer grainy, about 2 minutes. Add the vanilla and beat until the frosting is very light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Salted Caramel (MAKES 1 CUP) 1. Combine 1⁄2 cup sugar and 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt in a heavy medium-size saucepan over medium to medium-high heat. Cook, without stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is deep amber and smells of toasted nuts but has not begun to smoke, 5 to 8 minutes. 2. Tilt the pan away from you and stir in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and 2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract. Add 1⁄2 cup heavy (whipping) cream in a thin stream (the caramel will swell, bubble, and possibly splatter, so be careful and don’t rush). Stir until the cream is incorporated, about 1 minute. 3. Remove the pan from the heat and let the caramel cool completely before using (it will thicken significantly as it cools). It will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Use chilled. ■

RECIPES FROM CAKE MAGIC! BY CAROLINE WRIGHT, REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF WORKMAN PUBLISHING, 2016; PHOTOS BY KEN CARLSON COURTESY OF WATERBURY PUBLICATIONS.

COOKIES & CREAM CUPCAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 478 (230 from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 16g); CHOL 96mg; SODIUM 302mg; CARB 58g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g

BLACKBERRY BUTTERMILK CUPCAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 362 (155 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 11g); CHOL 76mg; SODIUM 207mg; CARB 49g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

HORCHATA CARAMEL CUPCAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 410 (202 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 14g); CHOL 91mg; SODIUM 237mg; CARB 49g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 3g

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52 real food winter 2016


The Real Fieri Family- and food-centric Guy Fieri is more than meets the eye

BY AUBREY SCHIELD

When Guy Fieri was in grade school, no one would trade lunch with him. While his classmates assembled in the cafeteria and began a complex dance of swapping items in their superhero-stamped lunchboxes, Guy’s roasted turkey sandwich on homemade bread in a brown paper sack didn’t hold much appeal for his peers. Fortunately it didn’t matter to Guy, who knew his lunch was more delicious and more nutritious than anything else on the table. Long since his days in the school lunchroom, Guy has hosted several Food Network shows, including Guy’s Big Bite; Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives; Guy’s Grocery Games and Guy & Hunter’s European Vacation, in which Guy and his son explore cuisine in seven European countries. Off screen, Guy’s career has seen the opening of 45 restaurants across the country beneath the umbrella of his company, Knuckle Sandwich. He is also the author of six cookbooks. The newest, Guy Fieri Family Food: 125 Real-Deal Recipes, gives you a chance to experience the fun, food-loving celebration that happens every time Guy and his family gather in the kitchen. The book comprises Fieri (pronounced “fee-eddy”) family favorites and Guy’s special tricks, such as a weeklong meal planner that uses leftovers, a foil-wrapped brick to press ground beef into the perfect patty and more. Plus, the book has a healthy balance of passion, comedy and fun—much like Guy himself. Food has always been an integral part of the chef’s life, even as a young kid. Great cooks themselves, Guy’s parents ignited his passion for good food, often encouraging him and his sister, Morgan, to try vegetarian dishes, organic ingredients, cuisine from other cultures and more. By all accounts, Guy had a rich upbringing when it came to dining.

This exposure to the diverse world of food led him to try sushi for the first time at age 8. When his classmates discovered that he had consumed raw fish, they exclaimed in horror, “Guy ate bait!” Perhaps his fate as a chef was sealed from then on. Growing up, mealtime was synonymous with family time— and meal preparation was just as important as diving in at the table. “The family motto was: Everybody’s up and everybody participates in making dinner,” he says. Guy enjoyed crafting menus for family meals and preparing the food, and eventually, he caught on that preparing the meal relieved him of dish duty for the evening. Guy’s interest in food led to his first business endeavor: The Awesome Pretzel Cart. At the age of 10 with help from his dad, Guy built a bright yellow food cart and began selling his handmade soft pretzels in his hometown of Ferndale, Calif. As a teenager, Guy saved up money from various dishwashing jobs and pursued his dream of studying abroad in France. While abroad, Guy’s appreciation for international cuisine and the art of cooking grew. Shortly after returning to the United States, Guy opened his first restaurant, Johnny Garlic’s, in 1996. In 2006 Guy appeared on and won the second season of The Next Food Network Star and later that year his first show, Guy’s Big Bite, premiered on that network. These days, Guy shares that same passion with his own family. He and his wife, Lori, can often be found in the kitchen with their sons, Hunter and Ryder. In fact, the scene in the Fieri kitchen around mealtime is quite similar to that of his childhood home. “Food has always been the center of how I operate and who I am,” he says. Sharing his passion for cooking with his family, Guy has been teaching his two sons kitchen skills and techniques since they

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facets of my life. People always want to make a differentiation: What part of Guy is TV? What part of Guy is family? What part of Guy is 'Wild Guy'? It’s all the same person.” —Guy Fieri

PHOTOS AND RECIPE REPRINTED FROM GUY FIERI FAMILY FOOD BY GUY FIERI. COPYRIGHT © 2016 BY GUY FIERI. REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF WILLIAM MORROW, AN IMPRINT OF HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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were old enough to hold a spatula. Now that Hunter is 20 and Ryder is 10, both take on more responsibility when preparing meals. Gathering in their spacious kitchen—complete with a sixtop burner, two ovens, a wood fire oven, barbecue and several sinks—the four take on separate roles to create a delicious meal they can be proud of. Recently Guy supervised as Ryder prepared an entire meal on his own. When Lori requested “something classic” for her birthday dinner, the father-son pair immediately thought of Chicken Cordon Bleu. When the meal was finished and ready to serve, Ryder wanted to tell everyone at the table that he had prepared it. “He had a sense of accomplishment and pride,” Guy happily recalls. The story is proof that kids can get involved in cooking even at young ages. “People ask me all the time for kid-friendly recipes. Kid-friendly recipes are whatever you’re eating,” Guy says. “If you take the time to work with your kids and teach them to cook, you’re going to give them more appreciation for food. The more appreciation they have, the more willing and likely they are to pick better food for themselves.”

FIERI COURTESY OF FOOD NETWORK

“There are so many different

The same passion Guy feels about cooking with his own children led him to establish his national nonprofit, Cooking With Kids, which funds community initiatives that get young people into kitchens and promotes healthy cooking and eating habits. He is so passionate about igniting kids’ interest in food that in 2008 he drafted a bill with the California state legislature to designate Sundays as “Cook With Your Kids Day.” The resolution passed in 2011. Cooking isn’t only about the fun, though. For Guy, it’s a responsibility he feels toward his loved ones. Before his sister, Morgan, passed away from cancer six years ago, Guy was in charge of preparing a vegetarian dish for her at Thanksgiving dinner, and he didn’t want to shirk his duty. He came up with a hearty, vegetable ragu to substitute for meat in his lasagna recipe and would serve it to her at the meal. Chuckling, he shares how Morgan would try to pack up the entire lasagna to take home with her after dinner. “I’m like, wait a second! Just because I made this vegetarian dish for you doesn’t mean I don’t want any of it myself,” he remembers telling her. You can find the recipe for Morgan’s Veggie Ragù, along with Guy’s special technique to keep the dish from getting too mushy, within the pages of Family Food. Guy is the first to admit that his plate is full. At the time of our interview, he had just wrapped up a mass vaccination for his herd of goats. Yes, Guy Fieri owns a herd of goats. With several organic gardens on his property, Guy needed an alternative to spraying harmful pesticides when buckthorn began growing. Goats eat the plant, so he added “goat herder” to his laundry list of titles. “There are so many different facets of my life,” he says. “People always want to make a differentiation: What part of Guy is TV? What part of Guy is family? What part of Guy is 'Wild Guy'? It’s all the same person.” Guy says Family Food is essentially his family’s memoir. The book was inspired by his parents, his wife, his two sons and the way they gather to cook meals together. In fact, he and his family have prepared every dish that appears throughout the cookbook, and the book reflects the bustling excitement in the Fieri kitchen during meal prep. Guy says he wanted the book to be fun and accessible to everyone, no matter what skill level. Whether it is over a grill or in the kitchen, to cook (and eat) with Guy is to know him. Luckily, this cookbook is the next best thing to sitting down to a meal made in the Fieri kitchen. ■


Fire Roasted Fieri Lasagna MAKES 8 SERVINGS

This is family dinner at its very best. Guy’s hearty lasagna melds all the traditional flavors of the sultry Italian dish, and even kicks it up a notch with three different meats, rich spinach leaves and plenty of cheese. Find Morgan’s Vegetarian Lasagna in Family Food for a meatless version close to Guy’s heart. Meat Ragù 2 28-ounce cans whole fire-roasted tomatoes, with their juice 1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 carrots, finely diced 1 medium onion, finely diced 4 garlic cloves, minced 10 ounces ground beef (80% lean) 10 ounces bulk sweet Italian pork sausage 6 ounces pepperoni, coarsely ground in a food processor 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1⁄2 cup tomato paste 1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon basil, julienned 1 tablespoon marjoram, chopped 1 tablespoon oregano, chopped 8 to 10 turns freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 teaspoon red chili flakes Lasagna 2 pounds good-quality lasagna noodles 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 pound whole-milk ricotta cheese 1⁄2 pound Parmesan cheese, grated (about 21⁄2 cups) 1 large egg, beaten 5 or 6 gratings of nutmeg 5 or 6 turns freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, minced 1½ pounds baby spinach leaves 1 pound mozzarella cheese, grated (about 4 cups) 1⁄4 cup basil, julienned 1 tablespoon marjoram, chopped 1 tablespoon oregano, chopped 1. To prepare the ragù, place the tomatoes in a food processor and pulse until chunky. Set aside. 2. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. Add the carrots and onion and cook until the onion is translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the ground beef, sausage and pepperoni and season with the salt. Cook for about 10 minutes, or until the meat is browned all over, using a wooden spoon to break up the meat as it cooks. Add the tomato paste and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until fragrant. 3. Dust the flour over the mixture and stir well to combine. Stir in the reserved tomatoes, basil, marjoram, oregano, black pepper and chili flakes. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat

to a simmer. Cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Using a large spoon, skim off any oil that accumulates on the surface. (The ragù can be prepared 2 to 3 days ahead of time; store it in a covered container in the refrigerator until ready to use.) 4. To prepare the lasagna, in a large stockpot over medium-high heat, bring 2 gallons of water to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons of the salt. Add the lasagna noodles and stir gently to separate. Cook the lasagna noodles until al dente, 8 to 9 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a large bowl of ice water. When the noodles are done, drain them, then plunge them immediately into the ice water for 30 seconds to stop the cooking process. Drain and spread the noodles on a rack. 5. In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, half of the Parmesan, the egg, nutmeg and pepper. Mix well to combine and set aside. 6. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic, spinach and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Sauté the spinach until tender and wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and pour off any liquid. Transfer the spinach to a clean kitchen towel and twist it into a ball to squeeze out any excess moisture. Set aside. 7. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a heavy 10x14x3-inch lasagna pan. 8. To assemble the lasagna, ladle 1 cup of the ragù into the bottom and around the sides of the pan. Arrange several lasagna noodles on top of the sauce, slightly overlapping them to create an even layer that completely covers the ragù. Spread 2 cups of the ragù over the lasagna noodles, followed by one-third of the ricotta mixture, one-quarter of the mozzarella and one-third of the spinach. 9. Arrange more noodles on top, overlapping to cover the spinach. Spread 2 cups ragù over the noodles, followed by half of the remaining ricotta, one-third of the mozzarella and half of the spinach. Arrange more noodles on top. Spread 2 cups ragù over them, followed by the remaining ricotta, half of the remaining mozzarella and the remaining spinach. Arrange more noodles on top. Spread the remaining ragù on top and sprinkle with the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan, and the basil, marjoram and oregano. 10. Cover the pan with heavy-grade plastic food wrap (or parchment paper), then wrap the whole pan tightly with aluminum foil. Place the pan on a baking sheet (to catch any drips) in the center of the oven. Bake for 1 hour. Remove the foil and plastic food wrap and bake for 20 minutes longer, until well browned around the edges and bubbling. Finish under the broiler if necessary. Cool for 20 minutes before serving.

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pairings

A Sweet Partnership Wine and chocolate can make fine friends if you just keep it sweet BY MARY SUBIALKA

T

he holiday feast is over and out come the chocolates—delicious dark or smooth milk chocolates and filled little numbers. Whether they are the classic assortment of treats or locally made artisan creations, you don’t need to forego wine to accommodate these after-dinner guests— just shift the selection to make the most of the match. Sweets can emphasize a wine’s acidity, and if they are paired with a wine that is drier than the dessert, the combination can result in a bitter taste. So sweeter wines are the best bet for a match. Banyuls is one of a handful of wines that pairs well with chocolates and chocolate desserts. Sometimes referred to as the French cousin of port (a classic chocolate partner), Banyuls is a Grenache-based fortified wine that has been made since the 13th century. Lighter and easier drinking than port, Banyuls’ flavor descriptors such as coffee, chestnut, mocha and tea may help contribute to the pleasing pairing. PX (Pedro Ximénez) sherry from Spain also makes a fine friend with chocolate. The best examples display intense, ultrasweet aromas along with balancing flavors of chocolate, coffee and spices. If you prefer a white wine, the hints of orange flavor in Muscat can accent those in a chocolate orange treat. And raise a glass to the season with sweeter styles of bubbly and chocolate-covered strawberries. Save the coffee for breakfast and uncork the dessert wine for a sweet ending to any celebration. ■

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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