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WINTER 2015

COMPLIMENTARY

Savor the Season

Warm your holidays from soups to sweets

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FREE

RAISING THE BAR: Elevate simple treats A TASTE OF SCANDINAVIA: Classic flavors meet international flair PUMPKINS & SQUASH: Versatile, nutrient-rich fruits

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contents

real food winter 2015

Features 18 Cooking with Pumpkins & Squash Amazingly versatile in dishes savory or sweet RECIPES BY BRIAN GLOVER

26 A Festive Fete A holiday dinner made easy with a little planning and do-ahead dishes BY ROBIN ASBELL

36 Raising the Bar Elevate traditionally simple treats for ringing in the holidays BY LAUREN CHATTMAN

44 A Taste of Scandinavia Classic flavors meet international flair RECIPES BY TINA NORDSTRÖM

52 Chef Duff Goldman The “Ace of Cakes” on baking like a pro at home BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Move over peanut butter: It’s easy to whip up hazelnut butter and more RECIPES BY MARY LOUDERMILK

6 Kitchen Skills Working with the king of sweets—chocolate BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Mushrooms: An invaluable super food BY LISA MARCHAND

56 Pairings A match for the medley of flavors at the holiday dinner table BY MARY SUBIALKA

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Our Cover

Pomegranate Bellinis and Creamy Parsnip and Apple Soup with Thyme (pages 31 and 32). Photographs by Terry Brennan

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PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITOR LISA MARCHAND SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KELLY WIEBE EDITORIAL INTERNS SOPHIE BURTON, REBECCA LUBECKI AND KELCIE MCKENNEY

VOLUME 11, NUMBER 4 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612-371-5800, Fax 612-371-5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.


bites

Move Over, Peanut Butter The potential for new and exciting nut butters is endless—and delicious

G

one are the days when peanuts ruled the nut butter world. Author Mary Loudermilk explores the versatility of nuts from cashews to pistachios and everything in between in her latest book, Nut Butters. Whether it’s for something sweet or savory, Loudermilk concocted 30 simple recipes to satisfy your cravings, beginning with the nut butter itself and ending in a delicious appetizer, entrée or dessert. With as few as two ingredients and a reliable food processor, you too could be well on your way to perfecting the art of nut butters. Recipes vary from a simple Rosemary Cashew Butter Chicken and the Chocolate Bourbon Hazelnut Butter Milkshake to more complex dishes such as the Spicy Ginger Peanut Butter Soup and Mint Chocolate Chip Macadamia Butter Ice Cream. The best part about the book is that each recipe is flexible—feel free to switch out one type of nut for another, add more or less salt to taste, or use the recipes as a springboard to discover your own creations. — Lisa Marchand

PHOTOS AND RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM NUT BUTTERS © 2015 BY MARY LOUDERMILK, STERLING PUBLISHING CO., INC. PHOTOS BY MARY LOUDERMILK.

Salted Caramel Hazelnut Butter Scones MAKES 8 SCONES

2¼ ¼ 2 1 1⁄3 1 1⁄3 1 2 ¼

cups all-purpose flour cup brown sugar teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda cup butter, cold and cut into small pieces cup Salted Caramel Hazelnut Butter (recipe at right) cup plus ¼ cup milk, divided use egg, lightly beaten tablespoons powdered sugar cup salted caramel sauce

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. Combine the flour, brown sugar, baking powder and baking soda together in a large bowl. Whisk ingredients together. 3. With a pastry cutter, cut in the cold butter and Salted Caramel Hazelnut Butter until crumbly. 4. Combine 1⁄3 cup milk with the lightly beaten egg, then add to the flour mixture. Mix carefully until the dough starts to come together. Pour out onto a piece of parchment paper, knead one or two times, then shape into a 1-inch-thick disk. 5. Slide the parchment onto a baking sheet, cut into 8 pieces (leaving them together in the disk), and bake for 16-18 minutes. 6. Let the scones cool for 5 minutes on the baking sheet before moving them to a cooling rack. After 20 minutes, cut again where you cut before baking. 7. To make the glaze, combine ¼ cup milk with 2 tablespoons powdered sugar and ¼ cup salted caramel sauce. Whisk until smooth, then pour over the cooled scones.

4 real food winter 2015


bites

Salted Caramel Hazelnut Butter MAKES 21⁄ 21⁄4 CUPS

1 cup white sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into small pieces ½ cup heavy cream 1½ teaspoons fleur de sel 2 cups hazelnuts Salt, to taste 1. Pour the white sugar into a saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, whisking until the sugar is completely dissolved. Once the sugar is completely dissolved, stop whisking and do not stir.

2. Cook until the caramel is a deep amber color (350°F, if using a candy thermometer). Add the butter, whisking vigorously until smooth. 3. Remove from heat, and add the cream and fleur de sel. Whisk until the caramel is smooth and has stopped bubbling. 4. Let the caramel cool for at least 15 minutes before proceeding. 5. Process the hazelnuts in the food processor for 5-10 minutes, or until completely smooth, scraping down the sides with a spatula as necessary. 6. Add 2⁄3 cup of the caramel sauce to the hazelnut butter, and either process again or use a spoon to fold and mix together. 7. Add salt as needed for taste. ■

winter 2015 real food 5


kitchen skills

King of Sweets Tips for working with chocolate BY JASON ROSS

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o food equates pleasure quite like chocolate. Its purity and richness, the way it melts, and the sheer delight it brings all make the confection the king of sweet ingredients. That said, it can be finicky and expensive, so it’s important to know how to work with it in your own kitchen. Here are some tips for choosing and using chocolate.

What is the difference between dark, milk and white chocolate? Chocolate is made from ground cacao-bean paste, which is a mixture of solids and fats. The solids provide the characteristic taste while the fats, called cacao butter, give it that melt-inyour-mouth feel and a slight crunch. The paste is combined with sugar, milk solids, butterfat, and other flavorings and stabilizing ingredients. The darker the chocolate, the higher the percentage of cacao it contains. Bittersweet chocolate and semisweet chocolate, for example, contain at least 35 percent, while milk chocolate has 10 percent. White chocolate has no cacao paste; it is made from cacao butter with no cacao solids. As for usage, dark chocolate is firmer and has bigger flavor and bitterness. Milk and white chocolate are softer and have sweeter, less intense chocolate flavor.

Buying Chocolate The key component that determines flavor and character is the ground cacao-bean paste. One might surmise then that the percentage of cacao would indicate flavor and function. However, the paste contains two parts fat in the form of cacao butter and ground cacao solids, and labeling unfortunately does not specify how much is butter and how much is solids. The chocolate’s other ingredients also affect flavor, texture and ease of use. Dark chocolate is easier to work with as it contains more pure cacao and fewer added ingredients. Our advice? Buy the chocolate you like best.

Melting Chocolate It takes very little heat to melt chocolate, which easily can become grainy, thick or even scorched. Always chop chocolate into small pieces and melt using a double boiler. Heat water until just warm, not boiling or simmering, then turn off heat. Place chocolate in a medium bowl over water and use a wooden spoon to stir as it melts into a smooth liquid. PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Ganache: Dark, Milk and White Ganache is simply chocolate melted and incorporated with cream, and yet it is extremely versatile. It can be plain, flavored, thick, thin, molded or whipped, and can be used as a sauce, a coating for cakes or a filling for candies. Here are some basic recipes for making different varieties.

Ganache Chocolate Sauce MAKES 2 CUPS

Use this sauce for almost any dessert, from fresh fruit and ice cream to cakes and pies. 6 ounces dark chocolate, chopped 1½ cups cream Or for milk or white chocolate: 5 ounces milk chocolate or white chocolate, chopped 1¾ cups cream

Ganache Tart Filling or Cake Coating MAKES 2 CUPS

This ganache can be poured into a baked tart shell, cooled and served. It also can be used as a frosting spread across a cake or rewarmed and poured over cake layers. 8 ounces dark chocolate, chopped 1 cup cream Or for milk or white chocolate: 10 ounces milk chocolate or white chocolate, chopped ¾ cup cream

NUTRITION

1. For both recipes, place chocolate in a medium mixing bowl. 2. In a small saucepot, warm cream to a boil and immediately turn off heat. 3. Pour cream over chocolate. 4. Let sit 1 to 2 minutes without stirring to soften chocolate and yield a creamier ganache. 5. Using a wooden spoon, stir from center of bowl in small circles. As chocolate and cream combine, mixture will thicken. Continue stirring to incorporate any cream or chocolate along bowl edge. 6. If some chocolate does not melt, set up a double boiler. Heat a small pot of water until warm, then turn off heat. Place bowl on top of pot and stir until chocolate melts. 7. Let cool at room temperature and transfer to an airtight container. Store at room temperature up to 3 days. ■ CHOCOLATE SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 127 (98 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 7g); CHOL 26mg; SODIUM 9mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

TART FILLING OR CAKE COATING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 126 (89 from fat); FAT 10g (sat. 6g); CHOL 17mg; SODIUM 6mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

winter 2015 real food 7


contributors

Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to add special touches to dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains, with an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is The Whole Grain Promise, More Than 100 Recipes to Jumpstart a Healthier Diet and she is the author of Juice It!, Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat No Dairy All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta: More than 100 Fast and Flavorful Recipes with Low- and No-Carb Options.

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Tara Q. Thomas

Terry Brennan

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

8 real food winter 2015

intended to be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, but got sidetracked by wine. She’s been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is Executive Editor. Author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and a contributor to the forthcoming Oxford Companions to cheese and to spirits, she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, N.Y., juggling laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

Lauren Chattman

is a cookbook author, freelance writer and former professional pastry chef. Her recipes have appeared in Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, Cook’s Illustrated and The New York Times. She is the author of 14 books, including Cake Keeper Cakes and Cookie Swap!. She has also co-authored several books, including Dessert University with former White House Pastry Chef Roland Mesnier. With artisan baking expert Daniel Leader, she is the co-author of the International Association of Culinary Professionals award-winning Local Breads. With Susan Matheson, she is co-author of The Gingerbread Architect. Her collaboration with YouTube star Maangchi, Real Korean Cooking with Maangchi Maangchi, was released last spring.

Tina Nordström

became Sweden’s first female celebrity chef in 2001 after qualifying as a finalist in the prestigious Swedish Chef of the Year competition. She won the silver medal at the Culinary Olympics with her delicious recipes and free-spirited approach to cooking. She is a food columnist for the Swedish magazine Gourmet and the author of several cookbooks. She has hosted 14 seasons of cooking shows on TV, including PBS’s New Scandinavian Cooking. She resides in Helsingborg, Sweden.

Jason Ross

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.


Lunds & Byerlys welcome Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 East Side: 651-735-6340 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 Woodbury: 651-999-1200

LUNDS & BYERLYS KITCHEN LundsandByerlys.com/kitchen

SHOP ONLINE LundsandByerlys.com

FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

CATERING LundsandByerlys.com/catering 952-897-9800

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663

AROUND THE TABLE

B

etween work commitments, our children’s activities and everything else that needs to get done, it can be easy to skip one of the most important and meaningful parts of the day—a family meal around the dinner table. My family strives to have dinner together as much as possible. It really is a priceless time to talk about the day’s activities and demonstrate to our children that we value our precious time together. Given all of the business of our day-today lives, it’s probably unrealistic for most of us to have a family meal every day of the week, but committing to doing so as often as possible significantly increases the chances of seeing all of the positive behaviors we want in our children— higher grades and self-esteem, healthier eating habits and less risky behavior. For nearly 20 years, the National Center on Addiction and Substance Abuse (CASA) at Columbia University has been studying the correlation between the frequency of family mealtime and youth behaviors. The results consistently show

a s t ro n g re l a tionship between children having fre quent family meals and a decreased risk of smoking, drinking and using other drugs. Tres According to Lund CASA, “Simply put: Frequent family dinners make a huge difference.” Here at Lunds & Byerlys, we’re your ally and are ready and eager to help you create quick and delicious meals for your family. We also have a lot of great family meal ideas on our website. I encourage you to check them out at LundsandByerlys.com/ FamilyMeals. There’s absolute value in circle-up time around the dinner table—not only for our children but for us parents as well. Hopefully we can all find ways to do more of it as we enter the new year. Thank you very much for allowing us the opportunity to serve you. From our extended family here at Lunds & Byerlys to you and your family, we wish you a joyous holiday season. Sincerely,

STAY CONNECTED: Sign up for our e-newsletter at LundsandByerlys.com Download our app by texting LBAPP to 55955.

Tres Lund President and CEO

Join our Text Club by texting DEALS to 55955. Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9


Lunds & Byerlys quick comfort food

Grilled Cheese Four Ways One of the best things about this tried-and-true comfort food is that you can swap in different ingredients for a completely unique sandwich every time. Here are four of our favorite grilled cheese recipes

Caprese Grilled Cheese

Hawaiian Grilled Cheese

Fresh mozzarella cheese Bushel Boy tomatoes Fresh basil 2 slices of bread Extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste

Emmental Swiss cheese Fresh cored pineapple Lunds & Byerlys all-natural uncured smoked ham 2 slices of bread Butter

1. Brush both sides of the bread with olive oil. 2. Slice the tomatoes to your desired thickness. 3. Layer cheese, tomatoes and fresh basil on one slice of bread. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top with the second slice of bread. 4. Cook the sandwich in a skillet on medium heat, flipping once, until cheese is melted and both sides of the bread are uniformly brown.

1. Heat oven to 350°F. 2. Slice the pineapple into thin sections, place on a baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, until softened. 3. Butter both sides of the bread. 4. Layer slices of Swiss cheese, ham and pineapple on one slice of bread. Top with the second slice of bread. 5. Cook the sandwich in a skillet on medium heat, flipping once, until cheese is melted and both sides of the bread are uniformly brown.

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Cheddar, Apple & Bacon Grilled Cheese Red Barn cheddar cheese Apple Bacon 2 slices of bread Butter 1. Bake the bacon in the oven until it’s crispy. 2. While the bacon is cooking, shred your cheddar cheese and slice your apples into wedges, removing the skin if desired. 3. Heat the apples in a skillet for 5-10 minutes until they soften. 4. Butter both sides of the bread. 5. Once the bacon is crispy and the apples are soft, layer cheese, apples and bacon on one slice of bread. Top with a little bit more cheese and the second slice of bread. 6. Cook the sandwich in a skillet on medium heat, flipping once, until cheese is melted and both sides of the bread are uniformly brown.

Jalapeño, Avocado & Raspberry Grilled Cheese Marieke Jalapeño Gouda Avocado Raspberry jam 2 slices of bread Butter 1. Butter both sides of the bread. 2. Peel and cut the avocado into thin slices. 3. On one slice of bread, spread a thin layer of raspberry jam. 4. Layer slices of jalapeño Gouda and avocado on top of the jam. Top with the second slice of bread. 5. Cook the sandwich in a skillet on medium heat, flipping once, until cheese is melted and both sides of the bread are uniformly brown.


Lunds & Byerlys meat department

Manhattan Strip Roast Exclusive new roast—just in time for the holidays

I

f you’re a fan of New York strip steak, you’ll love Lunds & Byerlys Manhattan Strip Roast. “It’s your favorite steak in the summer, now available as a roast for the wintertime,” explains our Executive Chef Michael Selby. This exclusive new roast is made with beef from our partners at Double R Ranch. Located in the Cascade Mountains of the Pacific Northwest, Double R is known for its high-quality cattle, commitment to animal well-being and environmental stewardship. Why are people raving about the new Manhattan Strip Roast? Cut from a very tender section of beef, this right-sized roast is lightly marinated with an exclusive combination of olive oil, French sea salt and spices developed by Chef Selby. It’s also easy to prepare—all you have to do is pop it in the oven. It’s slightly smaller than your typical roast—in fact, it cooks in less than an hour. The Manhattan Strip Roast is boneless, so it’s easy to slice and serve.

Chef’s tip: When you remove the roast from the oven, drizzle it with its own juices, cover it with foil and let it rest for at least 10 minutes to allow the juices to sink back in before serving. The unique size and shape of this roast makes it easy to slice into individual steaks to throw on the grill. If you have leftovers, you can slice it even thinner for delicious roast beef sandwiches. Lunds & Byerlys Manhattan Strip Roast is available in all of our stores, just in time for entertaining during the holiday season. Look for it in our meat department service case. ■

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11


Lunds & Byerlys coffee

Brewing up the Best Our quest for delicious coffee took us to Los Robles de Naranjo, the West Valley of Costa Rica BY STEVE SORENSEN SENIOR CATEGORY MANAGER FOR GROCERY, DAIRY AND FROZEN FOODS

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Lunds & Byerlys shopper Gordy Nordhausen tries his hand at raking the coffee beans.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OFXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I

n our never-ending quest to bring you the best products possible—whether they come from right here in Minnesota or from around the world—we headed to Costa Rica in search of a new, exclusive lot of coffee to offer you this holiday season. Our journey this past February took us to the Aguilera Brothers in Los Robles de Naranjo, the West Valley of Costa Rica, because they have become synonymous with some of the finest coffees to ever come out of the region. Their faultless attention to detail and hands-on approach result in high-quality coffee that attracts acclaim from all corners of the globe. The Aguilera Brothers (and sisters)—12 in total—inherited the small, family-owned business from their parents in 2005. And now, with the help of the third generation, they run the operation, which consists of six farms and a micro-mill to process the coffee. The family takes immense pride in their coffee; the siblings work the mill and farms themselves, with almost no outside labor. Although the harvest season (November through March) is the busiest time, the family works tirelessly year-round to closely oversee all stages of growing, harvesting and processing. Joining me on this trip were two of our key partners—Cameron’s Coffee CEO Bill Kirkpatrick and Cafe Imports President Andrew Miller. Bill is the roaster of our fine Lunds & Byerlys coffee, and Andrew is a fantastic importer, responsible for sourcing a majority of the quality coffees in the Twin Cities market.


Lunds & Byerlys coffee

Our team was also joined by two devoted Lunds & Byerlys shoppers, Gordy and Tara Nordhausen, who won the trip courtesy of Cameron’s Coffee as part of Lunds & Byerlys 75th anniversary celebration last year. The highlight of the trip was spending an incredible day observing and participating in coffee harvesting and processing at the Aguilera Brothers’ top-notch molinillo (micro-mill). The Aguilera Brothers were warm hosts. They gave us an in-depth tour of their beautiful farm, Finca Chayote. We also got an inside look at the Aguilera Brothers’ process and learned how each lot goes through a labor-intensive procedure of being washed or honey-washed to create a smoother, more flavorful coffee. The honey-washing process, which is unique to Costa Rica, involves removing the skin and some of the pulp inside the coffee cherries. The remaining pulp leaves a sticky, honey-like feel, which gives the process its name. After honey-washing the cherries, they are sun-dried on outdoor patios. As they dry, the cherries are turned regularly by raking them up and down the patio—an experience Gordy and Tara got to try out first hand. Throughout the outdoor drying time, the cherries are closely monitored to prevent any mold or unwanted fermentation. Our group quickly learned the Aguilera Brothers’ close attention to detail pays off as this coffee brims with bright, sweet fruit flavor while still being clean and balanced. We had the privilege of cupping (taste testing) the final product with Patrick Dinkins, our expert coffee taster and roastmaster from Cameron’s Coffee. Patrick chose a lighter roast level to bring out the exceptional bright notes and sweet, balanced flavor. Patrick put our lot through strenuous testing to ensure the quality of our coffee is extremely high. He gave our Lunds & Byerlys Limited Edition Private Reserve Costa Rican Microlot a cupping rating of 94 out of 100, which means our beans are in the top 10 percent of coffee beans in the world. We can’t wait for you to try our Lunds & Byerlys Limited Edition Private Reserve Costa Rican Microlot. This high-quality, traceable lot of exceptional whole bean coffee will only be available while supplies last. Enjoy! ■

NAME | Lunds & Byerlys Limited Edition Private Reserve Costa Rican Microlot

ORIGIN | West Valley of Costa Rica FARM | Finca Chayote VARIETY | Villa Sarchi ROAST | Light FLAVOR | Well-balanced, bright, sweet and floral

Members of the Aguilera family

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13


Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

REPUBLIC OF TEA MATCHA Unleash your inner warrior with Republic of Tea’s matcha tea. Unlike regular green tea, these tender, shade-grown leaves are ground to a fine powder and blended into water. Matcha has abundant nutrients and antioxidants and is highly energizing. Varieties include: Organic Matchia, U-Matcha Natural, Organic Double Green Matcha Tea and matcha powder. Assortment varies by store.

Did you know? Matcha is extremely versatile. It’s great in smoothies, lattes and ice cream. For a more savory approach, try matcha tea powder in a spice rub for meat or fish.

STONEWALL KITCHEN CLASSIC JAM COLLECTION Holiday gifts just got a little more delicious thanks to Stonewall Kitchen. This beautifully packaged selection of Stonewall Kitchen signature jams is loaded with sweet fruit and bright flavors. Stonewall Kitchen also makes a holiday jam—a mix of pears, cranberries and sweet raspberries with a hint of orange liqueur.

Tip: Jazz up your grilled cheese sandwiches by slathering a layer of jam inside one of the pieces of bread. Play around with the cheese and jam combinations to find the perfect match for you.

WHOLEME GRANOLA WholeMe granola offers an alternative to preservative-filled, sugar-laden snacks. Their three granolas—almond coconut, lemon berry chia and cinnamon banana chip—are nutrient-dense, naturally sweetened and made with wholesome ingredients, which makes them a healthy snack option. Try WholeMe by the handful, with your favorite milk or over yogurt—the options are endless!

Did you know? WholeMe is a Twin Cities company that was launched by a successful Kickstarter campaign in 2014.

14 real food winter 2015


Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

LUNDS & BYERLYS SAVORY PANCAKE MIXES Our new Lunds & Byerlys savory pancake mixes will delight you with their fluffy griddle pancake texture and amazing flavors. The quick and easy, just-add-water mixes let you create a sensational treat at a moment’s notice. The mixes are versatile and make the perfect addition to any meal, but they can also stand alone as a unique appetizer.

Tip: Top the spinach tomato pancakes with crumbled bacon and shredded cheddar cheese; then broil. The mushroom leek pancakes are delicious topped with a dollop of melted Brie and a sprinkle of parsley.

LUNDS & BYERLYS FUDGE The holidays will be even sweeter with our fresh, handmade fudge. Our holiday selections—chocolate, chocolate walnut, praline, red velvet and mint (made with Andes Mints)—are available in one-pound, half-pound and quarter-pound quantities in our bakeries. We also have fudge bites—a selection of bite-size pieces perfect for your holiday dessert tray.

Tip: Can’t decide which variety to buy? Ask for a sample! Our bakery staff would love to help you find the perfect flavor.

LUNDS & BYERLYS CRANBERRY BOURBON PEPPER JELLY Our new Lunds & Byerlys Cranberry Bourbon Pepper Jelly has a sweet-tart flavor note from cranberries and pure cane sugar melded with a touch of jalapeño pepper. The bourbon-based finish is rich and smooth. This delicious jelly imparts a touch of effervescence on the palate.

Tip: Create an easy appetizer by topping a cracker with softened Lunds & Byerlys Brie or Alemar Bent River Camembert, a dollop of cranberry bourbon pepper jelly and a fresh cranberry.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15


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ingredient

Mighty Mushrooms The world’s super food is a perfect fit for all your dishes BY LISA MARCHAND

T

hey say variety is the spice of life, and that certainly holds true for one surprising ingredient: mushrooms. No two kinds are the same, each bringing to the table distinct flavors, textures and health benefits. While most people have heard of the staples (white button, shiitake, portobello, etc.), scientists and foodies alike are said to have knowledge of a mere 10 percent of mushrooms. Even so, that small fraction of delicious ’shrooms has proven to be an invaluable asset in the kitchen. And for those who hesitate to love (or even try) these different fungi, they may be missing out on a serious super food. Countless studies have shown that mushrooms can help maintain low cholesterol levels, aid symptoms of anemia, prevent breast and prostate cancers, and improve overall immune system health. The key to savoring each type of mushroom and cashing in on all of its fantastic perks is in the cooking. While most mushrooms can be consumed from raw to sautéed, here’s a look at the most common types and how you can use their characteristics in different dishes. CREMINI Commonly known as baby bella mushrooms, this flavorful type is an excellent substitute for the more basic, milder white mushroom. They’re incredibly versatile and can be eaten raw or sautéed and added to a variety of dishes from salads to pizza. OYSTER This delicate mushroom gets its name from the shape of its cap and has a mild flavor that works well in egg dishes. While cooking, be sure to add oyster mushrooms toward the end in order to maintain their flavor and light texture.

PHOTO MNIMAGE - FOTOLIA.COM

PORTOBELLO This relative of the baby bella mushroom has a deeper, more complex flavor that often resembles the flavor of meat. They are best served cooked in some form, be it grilled, broiled or roasted. For vegetarians, they’re a perfect substitute as the “meat” of a burger. SHIITAKE With an earthier taste than many other mushrooms, shiitakes are filled with immune-boosting vitamins and minerals. They’ve been linked to better cardiovascular health and anti-cancer elements. They make a perfect sautéed addition to stir-fries, omelets and meat dishes. WHITE What the most common mushroom lacks in distinct flavor is made up in its host of natural supplements, including digestive enzymes, B vitamins, protein and more. Best served raw in salads or sautéed on pizza, pasta and more. ■

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cooking with pumpkins & squash Amazingly versatile squash and pumpkins delight in dishes savory to sweet RECIPES BY BRIAN GLOVER

18 real food winter 2015


PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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M

ildly sweet and finely textured squash and pumpkins, which are relatives of melon and cucumber, are surprisingly versatile in a wide range

of dishes from sides and soups to sweets. They also add a dose of nutrients including vitamins A (beta-carotene) and C and potassium as well as fiber. These colorful fruits are divided into two categories—summer and winter. The summer squash is picked at an immature state and has thin, edible skin and soft seeds. Zucchini is the best-known of this group that also includes crookneck and pattypan—and some are available throughout the year. Winter squash has hard, thick skins that usually aren’t eaten, large seeds and come in a wide variety of sometimes odd shapes and sizes (see “Winter Squash Primer” on page 23).

Spicy Pumpkin & Coconut Soup with Lime and Ginger MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This beautiful orange and green soup with its sweet-sour flavor and hint of chile heat makes an exotic start to a special meal. Despite the richness of the coconut milk, the sharpness of the lime keeps it tasting light. You can use any orange-fleshed winter squash or cooking pumpkin for this recipe. 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 11⁄2 pounds pumpkin or squash, peeled, seeded and cut into chunks a bunch (6-8) of scallions, chopped a 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 to 3 red chiles, seeded and chopped, plus extra slices to garnish 2 lemongrass stalks, split lengthways a large bunch of cilantro, stalks and leaves separated 5 cups vegetable or chicken stock 1 14-ounce can coconut milk 2 to 3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce freshly squeezed juice of 1 to 2 limes crème fraîche or sour cream, to serve 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and, over low heat, sweat the pumpkin and onions with a pinch of salt until soft but not browned, about 15–20 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, put the ginger, garlic, chiles, lemongrass, and cilantro stalks in another saucepan with the stock and simmer gently, covered, for 20–25 minutes. Let the stock cool slightly, then liquidize* and sieve into the saucepan with the pumpkin mixture, pressing hard on the contents of the sieve to extract maximum flavor. Discard the debris in the sieve, then purée the liquid again with the pumpkin mixture until smooth. 3. Return the soup to the rinsed-out saucepan, add the coconut milk, 2 tablespoons fish sauce, and the juice of 1 lime, then reheat, stirring all the time, to just below boiling point. Adjust the seasoning, adding more fish sauce and lime juice to taste. Chop most of the cilantro leaves finely and stir into the soup (keep a few leaves to scatter over the soup at the end). Heat for a few minutes, but do not allow to boil. 4. Serve piping hot, topped with a spoonful of crème fraîche and scattered with the reserved coriander leaves and/or some extra red chile slices. *Liquidize in a blender or food processor.

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SPICY PUMPKIN & COCONUT SOUP WITH LIME AND GINGER

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CHICKEN AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH TAGINE WITH SAFFRON

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WINTER SQUASH PRIMER

Chicken and Butternut Squash Tagine with Saffron MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This fragrant, Moroccan-inspired stew is heady with the scent of saffron and sharp with lemon, all of which works so well with the sweet density of the roasted squash. Serve with some buttered couscous. Just cover couscous with water or vegetable stock and let it absorb the liquid, fork through some melted butter, then reheat—either steaming in a cheesecloth-lined sieve or in the microwave. 3 tablespoons each of butter and olive oil 1 teaspoon each crushed cumin seeds and coriander seeds a piece of cinnamon stick 2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger 1 green chile, seeded and chopped, plus a little extra to taste 4 whole chicken legs, cut in 2, or a chicken cut into 8 pieces 2 to 3 bay leaves 2 teaspoons honey 2 tablespoons chopped preserved lemon (discard any pips), plus a little extra to taste a small bunch of cilantro, stalks and leaves separated 12⁄3 cups chicken stock ½ teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón) a butternut squash (about 11⁄2–2 pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into small wedges or slices a good pinch of saffron threads 1⁄3 cup blanched almonds, sautéed in a little butter until light brown sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Heat the butter and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a flameproof casserole or heavy-based skillet. Add the spices and cook over low heat for 2–3 minutes, then add the onions, garlic, ginger, and chile and cook gently for 5–6 minutes more. Add the chicken pieces and turn them in the juices for 1–2 minutes—do not let them brown. Add the bay leaves, honey, preserved lemon, and chopped cilantro stalks. Add the stock, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, black pepper to taste, and paprika. Bring to a boil then stir well, cover and cook very gently for about 45–50 minutes until the chicken is very tender. 2. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375°F. Toss the prepared squash in the remaining oil, season, and roast on a baking sheet until browned and tender, about 35–40 minutes. Soak the saffron in 2 tablespoons hot water and chop the cilantro leaves. 3. When the chicken is done, remove it to a serving dish and keep warm. Turn the heat up under the casserole and reduce the liquid by about half, then add the saffron and most of the cilantro. Cook for a few minutes, then taste. Adjust the seasoning, adding a little more chile or preserved lemon to taste. Stir in the roasted squash and heat through. Spoon the squash and sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the remaining cilantro and almonds and serve immediately.

Winter squash varies widely in size, shape and color. Here are some popular choices you’ll see throughout the fall and winter seasons. ACORN Also called Table Queen, this small to medium squash resembles an acorn and has distinct ribs and a pointed end. Its mostly dark green shell has blotches of yellow or orange. Sweet and nutty, it can sometimes have a fibrous texture. BUTTERCUP One of the more highly regarded and flavorful varieties, this member of the Turban squash family has a dark green shell with grayish stripes or flecks and may have a light blue-gray flattened turban. Its sweet and creamy orange flesh can have a somewhat dry texture. BUTTERNUT This long tan squash resembles a large pear or a light bulb. Very easy to use, its thin, edible shell can be removed with a vegetable peeler or left intact when cooked and puréed. Its rich orange flesh has a hearty sweet nutty flavor, is moist and has a fine-grained texture. DELICATA Also called sweet potato squash, the yellow/cream edible skin of this watermelon-shaped squash is mottled and striped with medium green in the lengthwise grooves. Its creamy yellow flesh tastes similar to sweet potatoes or sweet corn and is very tender. JACK BE LITTLE About 3-4 inches, this looks like a mini pumpkin and its orange flesh is sweet and flavorful. Can be cooked in the microwave whole and is a good single serving size. Just cut off the top and remove the seeds like you would for a jack-o’-lantern. SPAGHETTI Watermelon-shaped with a pale to dark yellow shell, its pale yellow flesh is bland, crisp, and slightly sweet. Once cooked, the strands can be pulled out with a fork and resemble spaghetti. This can serve as a low-cal or glutenfree pasta substitute. SUGAR PUMPKINS The thick finegrained flesh of these small pumpkins is good for making pie and for canning. (The flesh of the larger jack-o’-lantern pumpkins is bland and watery; they’re best for decoration.)

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Zucchini, Lemon & Poppyseed Cake with Lemon Butter Frosting MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

There is a lovely retro charm, redolent of 1950s cookbooks, about making a sweet cake with a vegetable that’s usually served savory. Of course, the zucchini here performs the same function as grated carrot does in the more familiar carrot cake. It keeps this cake wonderfully fresh and moist. 3 tablespoons poppyseeds finely grated zest of 2 unwaxed lemons 1⁄3 cup milk 2 sticks unsalted butter, softened 11⁄3 cups packed brown sugar 4 large eggs, separated ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract 11⁄2 cups self-rising flour, sifted 2⁄3 cup almonds, blanched and ground 8 ounces zucchini, trimmed and coarsely grated ½ teaspoon cream of tartar For the Frosting 1 cup confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons butter, melted 2 to 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter and line a 9 to 10-inch diameter round cake pan. 2. Put the poppyseeds and lemon zest in a small bowl. Heat the milk until hot, stir it into the poppyseed mixture, and let it cool while you make the cake mixture. 3. Cream the butter and sugar together until very light and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time, followed by the vanilla extract, flour, and almonds. Fold in the zucchini followed by the poppyseed mixture. In a separate, grease-free bowl, whisk the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff, then fold the egg whites into the cake mixture. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan, smooth down and bake in the center of the preheated oven for 50–60 minutes until the cake is just firm to the touch and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean with no uncooked mixture sticking to it. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes before turning onto a wire rack. 4. When cool, sift the confectioners’ sugar into a bowl, make a well in the center and add the still-hot melted butter. Start to mix, adding sufficient lemon juice, a little at a time, to make a spreadable frosting. Mix in the lemon zest, then spread over the cake. Leave for 1–2 hours to set before serving. Editor’s Note: If you prefer a thicker layer of frosting, you may want to double the frosting recipe. ■

NUTRITION

RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM COOKING WITH PUMPKINS & SQUASH BY BRIAN GLOVER © RYLAND PETERS & SMALL/LOUPE IMAGES.

PUMPKIN & COCONUT SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 243 (168 from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 13g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 598mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 7g

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BUTTERNUT SQUASH TAGINE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 641 (348 from fat); FAT 39g (sat. 12g); CHOL 210mg; SODIUM 412mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 45g

ZUCCHINI CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 576 (284 from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 16g); CHOL 144mg; SODIUM 336mg; CARB 66g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 9g


ZUCCHINI, LEMON & POPPYSEED CAKE WITH LEMON BUTTER FROSTING

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A Festive Fete The ultimate holiday gathering made easy

BY ROBIN ASBELL

ORANGE HERB PORK TENDERLOIN (RECIPE PAGE 31)


PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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A

re holiday parties your thing? Or does the busy season seem like the last time when you would want the added

stress of a dinner party? If it’s the latter, kick that feeling to the curb and think like a caterer. All you need to make a menu that wows is a little planning and preparation. You can do the work in stages and bring it all together at the last minute with polished ease. In this menu, the dessert, soup, salad dressing and even the bruschetta topping can be made up to three days in advance. If you shop four days out and accomplish a few things each day, you can feel relaxed as you assemble and prepare the final stages of the meal.

SKETCH OUT A SCHEDULE When I plan a party, I make a schedule, listing out the make-ahead components, from the longest lasting to the last minute, and fitting them into a time frame. Things like piecrusts, cake layers and cutout cookies can be made on a free weekend and frozen up to three months in advance. The cheesecake in this menu, for example, can be baked up to a month ahead and frozen, without sauce, then thawed in the refrigerator for two days before saucing and serving. That way your last-minute preparations involve simply reheating, roasting, and making a sauce when the pork is ready. You can even enlist a guest to put together the prepped salads and bruschetta. Shop early and give yourself plenty of time to cook.

UP TO A MONTH AHEAD:

THE DAY BEFORE:

• If making the cheesecake ahead of time, bake, freeze and set a reminder to thaw it in the refrigerator two days out.

• Make the salad dressing and wash and pull the leaves from parsley, wrap loosely in paper towels, and store in a sealable plastic bag.

OVER THE THREE DAYS LEADING UP TO THE PARTY:

• Make the marinade for the pork and marinate 24 hours before cooking.

• Roast the squash for the salad, the sweet potato for the pork, and the mushrooms for the bruschetta. Store tightly covered in the refrigerator. • Make the soup base and store tightly covered in the refrigerator. • Chop the pistachios and store tightly covered. • Make the pomegranate syrup for the Bellinis. Store tightly covered in the refrigerator.

THE DAY OF: • Slice and toast the bread for bruschetta. Let the chèvre soften at room temperature. Warm the mushrooms just before serving. • Slice the red onions and measure the cherries. Add the salad toppings and dressing just before serving. • Warm the soup base and stir in the yogurt just before serving. • Cook the pork and make the sauce just before serving. • Mix the Bellinis and pour. Have a good time!


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POMEGRANATE BELLINIS AND RED WINE–ROASTED MUSHROOM BRUSCHETTA WITH PISTACHIOS

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Red Wine-Roasted Mushroom Bruschetta with Pistachios MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Slow roasting these mushrooms in wine and herbs makes them into flavor bombs. These can be made ahead of time and simply warmed before serving. 1 ½ 2 2 ¼ 1 1 4 ½

pound baby portobello or cremini mushrooms cup red wine tablespoons extra virgin olive oil tablespoons fresh thyme cup minced shallots teaspoon coarse salt large baguette, sliced and toasted ounces chèvre cup roasted, salted pistachios, chopped

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Rinse, dry and quarter mushrooms and place in a 2-quart baking dish. Add wine, oil, thyme, shallots and salt, and toss to mix. Roast, uncovered, 50 to 60 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking time, until mushrooms are shrunken and firm, and pan is nearly dry. Let cool. If mushrooms are large, chop into smaller pieces. 3. Toast baguette slices, spread with chèvre and top with mushrooms. Sprinkle with pistachios and serve.

Orange Herb Pork Tenderloin MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Give your pork a holiday feel with the flavors of orange, rosemary and thyme. A bed of sweet potato cubes lends the tender meat a little sweetness, and the tangy, butter-kissed sauce makes the most of the flavors in the marinade. 1½ 1 2 ½ 2 1

pounds pork tenderloin tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped teaspoon salt large oranges, zested and juiced teaspoon black pepper, coarsely cracked

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar 3 cups cubed sweet potatoes 1 cup chopped onion 2 tablespoons unsalted butter rosemary sprigs

1. Unwrap tenderloin. If wet, pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a large sealable plastic bag, combine rosemary, thyme, salt and 2 tablespoons orange zest. Add 3⁄4 cup juice, black pepper, 2 tablespoons oil, and vinegar, and massage bag to mix. Add tenderloin, press air out of bag, and seal tightly. Turn to coat pork with marinade. Refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight. 3. Preheat oven to 425°F. Transfer pork to a heavy sheet pan and refrigerate the marinade. Roast the pork for 50 to 60 minutes (checking periodically after 30 minutes for doneness), until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 160°F (a thicker piece of meat will take longer). Let rest 5 minutes. 4. While pork is roasting, toss sweet potatoes, onion and 2 tablespoons oil on a sheet pan. Roast 20 minutes, then remove from oven and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. 5. While pork is resting, prepare the sauce: Pour marinade into a 1-quart saucepan. Boil marinade on medium-high heat for 3 minutes, until thick and syrupy. Whisk in butter, swirling over heat. 6. Slice meat in 18 thin slices. Serve ½ cup sweet potatoes topped with 3 slices pork and drizzle with sauce. Garnish with rosemary and serve.

Pomegranate Bellinis MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Serve these gorgeous sparklers and watch your guests get in the spirit. A syrup of tangy pomegranate juice and a dash of limoncello turn bubbly into a dark pink sipper, and the bubbles make the pomegranate seeds rise and fall. 1 1 3⁄4 1

cup pomegranate juice cup sugar cup limoncello 750-milliliter bottle Prosecco or Cava 1 cup pomegranate seeds

1. In a small saucepan over mediumhigh heat, combine juice and sugar. Whisk until sugar is dissolved and mixture comes to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool completely. Refrigerate until ready to serve. 2. To serve, pour pomegranate syrup and limoncello into a large pitcher and stir to combine. Carefully pour Prosecco or Cava into pitcher. 3. Pour Bellini mixture into 6 flutes and drop into each 1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately. Chill remaining Bellinis until ready to serve.

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Roasted Squash, Cherry and Spinach Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

A simple salad with sweet roasted squash and tart cherries makes a lively palate cleanser. To serve it as a light meal on its own, add some toasted, slivered almonds or some crumbled feta or blue cheese. 1½ 4 1 6 ½ ½ 2 4 ¼ ½

pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil, divided teaspoon salt, divided cloves peeled garlic cup fresh parsley, coarsely chopped cup plain yogurt tablespoons fresh lemon juice ounces baby spinach cup red onion, slivered cup dried cherries

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place squash in a large roasting pan and drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and ½ teaspoon salt. Roast 20 minutes, then test a piece of squash by piercing with a paring knife. When tender, remove from oven and let cool. 2. Place garlic on a 5-inch-wide piece of foil then drizzle with 1 teaspoon oil. Crimp foil to make a pouch. Roast garlic 20 minutes, until easily pierced with a paring knife. Let cool. 3. To make dressing, mince garlic and parsley in a food processor or blender. Add yogurt, 2 tablespoons oil, lemon juice and ½ teaspoon salt. Process until smooth and transfer to a cup with a pouring spout. 4. Arrange spinach on a large platter or individual plates. Top with squash, red onion and cherries. Drizzle with dressing and serve immediately.

Creamy Parsnip and Apple Soup with Thyme MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This creamy, rich-tasting soup is a lovely way to enjoy a big serving of root vegetables and apples. Parsnips are the underappreciated winter vegetable with an earthy sweetness that purées to a creamy soup. 1 1 2 2 3 1 1 1 1 2

tablespoon unsalted butter large onion, chopped pounds parsnip, peeled and chopped large apples cups chicken stock teaspoon salt dash cayenne tablespoon fresh thyme cup plain full-fat yogurt or sour cream medium scallions, chopped

1. In a large pot, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onion and stir. When it starts to sizzle, reduce heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, 5 minutes, until soft and golden. Stir in parsnips. Peel and slice 1 apple, add to pan, and pour in stock. 2. Increase heat to high, bring to a boil, cover and reduce heat to medium. Cook 10 minutes and test by piercing a parsnip chunk with a paring knife. When very tender, remove from heat. Add salt, cayenne and thyme, and stir. Transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. (If making more than 3 days ahead, cool completely and transfer to a freezer-safe container and freeze up to 1 month.) 3. To finish, whisk in yogurt and transfer to a 4-quart pan. Chop remaining apple and stir into soup while gently heating over medium heat. Serve topped with scallions.

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ROASTED SQUASH, CHERRY AND SPINACH SALAD AND CREAMY PARSNIP AND APPLE SOUP WITH THYME


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Mascarpone Cheesecake with Cranberry Sauce MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Creamy cheesecake is a satisfying ending to a celebratory feast. The hint of cinnamon and pecans in the crust and the cranberry topping give it a holiday feel. This can be frozen up to a month, or stored, tightly wrapped, up to three days before serving. Wait until the day of serving to top with cranberries. ½ 2 ½ ¼ 1 16 1 1 4 2 2 10 ½ ½ ¼ 1

Cheese Course MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This cheese course for six people, as created by Liz Nerud, American Cheese Society certified professional and cheese monger, can be served before dessert or in place of the dessert course.

NUTRITION

½ wheel Camembert, sliced into wedges ¼ pound Cheddar, sliced into triangles ¼ pound blue cheese 1 box rosemary raisin pecan Raincoast crisps or similar crisp or cracker dried apricots craisins 1 sprig fresh rosemary

POMEGRANATE BELLINI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 190 (2 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 6mg; CARB 29g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

MUSHROOM BRUSCHETTA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 332 (123 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 4g); CHOL 9mg; SODIUM 692mg; CARB 39g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 14g

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cup pecans cups graham cracker crumbs cup unsalted butter, divided cup brown sugar teaspoon cinnamon ounces softened cream cheese cup sugar cup mascarpone large eggs tablespoons fresh lemon zest teaspoons vanilla ounces cranberries, fresh or frozen cup sugar teaspoon almond extract cup cranberry or apple juice tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. For the crust: Butter a 10-inch springform pan. Place 2 14-inch foil pieces on countertop, one on top of the other to form a cross, and place pan in center. Pull foil up and crimp around pan edges; this will help prevent leaking if pan is not completely tight. Set aside a deep roasting pan that holds the springform pan. Boil about 8 cups of water. 3. In a food processor, grind pecans and graham crackers to fine crumbs. Add butter, brown sugar and cinnamon, and process to mix. Press into pan and bake 10 minutes to lightly toast crust. Remove from oven and let cool. 4. For the filling: Wash and dry food processor. Process cream cheese to soften to a smooth purée, scraping down sides as necessary. Add sugar and process until smooth. Add mascarpone, eggs, lemon zest and vanilla, and process until smooth. 5. Pour batter into crust and place in roasting pan. Carefully pour boiling water in roasting pan to come 1½ inches up springform pan sides. Transfer to oven and bake 70 to 80 minutes. Cake will be puffed around edges and will not jiggle in center when lightly shaken. 6. Remove roasting pan from oven and let sit on a cooling rack 10 minutes. Remove cake and discard water. Cool cake on rack until room temperature. Chill at least 2 hours before cutting. 7. Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, combine cranberries and sugar and bring to a boil, stirring often. Stir in almond extract. In a cup, stir cranberry juice with arrowroot. When cranberries are boiling and half have burst, stir juice mixture and pour into pan, stirring rapidly as sauce comes to a boil. The sauce will be thick and shiny. Transfer to a bowl and chill. When cold, spread over cheesecake. 8. Slice into 12 pieces, wiping knife between slices. Store tightly covered (including sauce) in the refrigerator up to 1 week. ■ SPINACH SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1 9 2 (9 1 f ro m f a t ) ; FAT 10g (sat. 2g); CHOL 1mg; SODIUM 430mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 3g

PARSNIP & APPLE SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 206 (40 from fat); FAT 5g (s a t . 2 g) ; C H O L 1 0 m g ; SODIUM 492mg; CARB 39g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 6g

PORK TENDERLOIN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 327 (154 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 5g); CHOL 58mg; SODIUM 287mg; CARB 20g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 24g

CHEESECAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 590 (315 from fat); FAT 36g (sat. 19g); CHOL 149mg; SODIUM 222mg; CARB 65g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 6g


MASCARPONE CHEESECAKE WITH CRANBERRY SAUCE

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RED VELVET AND WHITE CHOCOLATE CHEESECAKE SQUARES (RECIPE PAGE 38)

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Raising the Bar These simple sweets are superb for ringing in the holidays You may think of bar cookies as humble party fare. But elevated with luxurious ingredients, clever decorations, and seasonal flavors, they can fit the holiday bill. When choosing a bar for serving or gifting, pick a favorite recipe and kick it up a notch. These fresh takes on classics are sure to impress.

BY LAUREN CHATTMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Red Velvet and White Chocolate Cheesecake Squares MAKES 16 SERVINGS

White chocolate chips lend these bars richness and a hint of chocolate flavor. Reserve a little red velvet batter and dollop it on top for a beautiful pattern.

EASY WAYS TO ELEVATE BARS Luxurious and/or unexpected ingredients go a long way in making bars special. Instead of pecans and brown sugar, use hazelnuts and honey to distinguish nut bars. “Bar” cookies don’t have to be cut into the same shape over and over. Cut them into squares, triangles, diamonds and rectangles of varying sizes for visual appeal. Decorating doesn’t have to be difficult. Give sweet treats a professional look with a dusting of powdered sugar or a drizzle of melted chocolate. Bar cookies are sturdy and pack well, making them great for gifting. Package them with details like cute containers, gift tags, ribbons, bows and the like.

38 real food winter 2015

Red Velvet Layer ½ cup unsalted butter, melted 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla ¼ cup cocoa ¼ teaspoon salt .25 fluid ounces red food coloring 1 teaspoon vinegar 2 large eggs ¾ cup unbleached flour

Cheesecake Layer ½ cup white chocolate chips 6 ounces softened cream cheese 3 tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla 1 large egg yolk

1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with heavyduty foil, tucking into corners and leaving a 1-inch overhang on all sides. 2. For the red velvet layer: In a large bowl, whisk together butter, sugar, vanilla, cocoa, salt, food coloring and vinegar until smooth. Whisk in eggs. Stir in flour until just combined. Reserve ¼ cup batter. Spread remaining batter evenly across bottom of pan and freeze 15 minutes. 3. For the cheesecake layer: In a microwave-safe bowl, heat chocolate chips until half melted. Stir until smooth and let cool slightly. 4. In a large mixing bowl and using an electric mixer, combine cream cheese and sugar until very smooth, scraping down bowl as necessary. Mix in chocolate. Mix in vanilla and egg yolk until smooth. 5. Remove pan from freezer and spread cream cheese mixture over red velvet layer. Drop reserved red velvet batter over cream cheese layer in teaspoonfuls. Drag the tip of a sharp paring knife through cream cheese mixture to swirl. 6. Bake 35 minutes, until cream cheese layer is just set. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until chilled, at least 6 hours and up to 48 hours. 7. Use foil to lift from pan onto a cutting board and use a sharp knife to cut into 16 squares. Store refrigerated in an airtight container up to 5 days.

Cranberry and Lime Bars MAKES 16 SERVINGS

A touch of lime zest lends these simple bars a zippy flavor. Give them a bakery-style finish with a drizzle of white chocolate. 2 ½ ½ ½ ½ ½

cups flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoon cream of tartar teaspoon salt cup unsalted butter, softened cup sugar

½ 1 1 ½ 2 12

cup powdered sugar large egg teaspoon vanilla cup dried cranberries tablespoons grated lime zest, plus more for garnish ounces white chocolate chips

1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with heavyduty foil, tucking into corners and leaving a 1-inch overhang on all sides. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, cream of tartar and salt. 3. In a separate large bowl and using an electric mixer, combine butter, sugar and powdered sugar until well combined. Mix in egg and vanilla until smooth. Stir in flour mixture on low until just combined. Stir in cranberries, lime zest and 1¼ cups white chocolate chips. 4. Pour batter into pan and smooth with a spatula. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until golden around edges. Let cool completely on a wire rack. 5. Melt remaining chocolate chips and use a fork to drizzle over bars. Garnish top with lime zest, if desired. Let stand 1 hour, until chocolate is hard. Use foil to lift from pan onto a cutting board and use a sharp knife to cut into 16 squares. Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days.


CRANBERRY AND LIME BARS

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PATCHWORK BARS 40 real food winter 2015


Patchwork Bars MAKES 18 SERVINGS

The beauty of this recipe is that you can use whatever decorations you wish. Blue and gold nonpareils will transform these sweet treats into Hanukkah bars. Chopped nuts, seeds and toasted coconut give them a more natural look. For smaller bars, cut each rectangle into six cookies. 1 1 1 1 2 ½ ½ 12

cup unsalted butter, softened cup packed light brown sugar large egg teaspoon vanilla cups flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt ounces chocolate chips finely chopped peppermint candies, chopped nuts, sanding sugar, nonpareils and flaked coconut for decorating

1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line a 10-by-15-inch jelly roll pan with parchment paper. 2. Using an electric mixer on medium-high, mix butter and brown sugar 2 minutes, until light and fluffy. Mix in egg and vanilla until incorporated. Reduce speed to low and mix in flour, baking soda and salt until just combined. Use lightly floured hands to pat into an even layer in pan. Bake 20 to 23 minutes, until firm and lightly browned. 3. Transfer to a wire rack and sprinkle over chocolate chips in an even layer. Let stand 3 minutes, until melted. Use a small, metal spatula to smooth. 4. Using a sharp paring knife, mark 6 equal rectangles in chocolate. Sprinkle each with a different decoration. While still warm, cut into 6 rectangles then into 3 cookies (don’t wait until cooled as crust may crack). Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 5 days.

TOP TIPS FOR BAKING BARS Use the right pan. Baking your bars in a smaller or larger pan than called for will throw off baking time and change the texture of the finished product. Line the pan. A layer of foil makes for easy removal and cleanup. Watch the clock. The edges of bar cookies will dry out if the batter in the center of the pan bakes completely. Remove from the oven when a few moist crumbs stick to a toothpick inserted into the center. Pack with discretion. For the sake of freshness, pack bars in airtight containers or cookie tins. Or use cellophane to seal them tightly in open containers such as baskets, gift bags, ceramic mugs or baking dishes. Bars with delicate or sticky toppings should be packed between layers of parchment paper. Freeze with ease. The Red Velvet and White Chocolate Cheesecake Squares and the Cranberry and Lime Bars can be frozen. Peel the whole sheet of uncut bars away from the foil, wrap in plastic followed by heavy-duty foil, and freeze up to two weeks. Slice when partially thawed and allow to thaw completely before decorating, packing or serving.

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Toffee Squares with Pretzel Topping

Hazelnut and Honey Diamonds

MAKES 16 SERVINGS

The distinctive flavors of honey and hazelnuts make these chewy bars unforgettable. They are rich, so cut them into small pieces for giving or serving. Little, shiny diamonds are pretty and practical.

Not only do pretzel twists or sticks give these bars a graphic look, but their saltiness is a great contrast to the toffee below. Crust 1 cup unbleached flour 1⁄3 cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon salt 7 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces Topping ½ cup unsalted butter ½ cup light brown sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 1 cup chocolate chips 1¼ cups small pretzel twists or sticks

NUTRITION

1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with heavy-duty foil, tucking into corners and leaving a 1-inch overhang on all sides. 2. For the crust: In a medium bowl and using an electric mixer on low, combine flour, powdered sugar, cornstarch and salt. Add butter and mix on low until just starting to come together in clumps. Sprinkle across bottom of pan, press into an even layer, and freeze 15 minutes. Bake 20 to 23 minutes, until golden. 3. Meanwhile, make the topping: In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring butter, brown sugar, and salt to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes, until thick and golden. Scrape onto crust and return to oven. Bake 5 minutes, until caramel is bubbling. 4. Transfer to a wire rack and sprinkle over chocolate chips. Use a small, metal spatula to spread in an even layer. Arrange pretzels over chocolate. Let stand until bars are cool and chocolate is hard. Use foil to lift from pan onto a cutting board and use a sharp knife to cut into 16 squares. Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days.

CHEESECAKE SQUARES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 209 (105 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 7g); CHOL 62mg; SODIUM 93mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

42 real food winter 2015

CRANBERRY & LIME BARS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 270 (104 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 8g); CHOL 28mg; SODIUM 168mg; CARB 38g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g

MAKES 26 SERVINGS

Crust 1 cup unbleached flour 1⁄3 cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces Topping 1⁄3 cup honey 1⁄4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces 1 tablespoon heavy cream 1½ cups skinned and toasted hazelnuts 1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with heavy-duty foil, tucking into corners and leaving a 1-inch overhang on all sides. 2. For the crust: In a medium bowl and using an electric mixer on low, combine flour, powdered sugar, cornstarch, and salt until the ingredients clump together when squeezed between your fingertips. (It’s okay if the mixture looks dry.) Sprinkle across bottom of pan, press into an even layer, and freeze 15 minutes. Bake 18 to 20 minutes, until edges are just golden, and remove from oven. Reduce temperature to 325°F. 3. For the topping: In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine honey, brown sugar and salt, stirring once or twice to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat and simmer 2 minutes without stirring. Add butter and cream, and simmer 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in hazelnuts. 4. Pour topping over crust. Use back of a spoon to distribute nuts evenly. Return pan to oven and bake 18 to 20 minutes until topping is bubbling and slightly browned. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. 5. Use foil to lift from pan onto a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to cut on the diagonal every 1½ inches, first one way then the other, to create 26 diamonds. Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days. Cook’s Notes: For the easiest route with this recipe, buy skinned, pretoasted hazelnuts. To skin and toast your own, bring two cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add nuts and 2 tablespoons baking soda and boil 3 minutes. Run nuts under cold running water and rub off skin. Dry with paper towels and toast 10 minutes in a 350°F oven until golden. ■

PATCHWORK BARS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 298 (145 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 10g); CHOL 37mg; SODIUM 114mg; CARB 38g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 3g

TOFFEE SQUARES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 217 (123 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 9g); CHOL 29mg; SODIUM 228mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g

HAZELNUT & HONEY DIAMONDS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 133 (77 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 3g); CHOL 11mg; SODIUM 70mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g


TOFFEE SQUARES WITH PRETZEL TOPPING AND HAZELNUT AND HONEY DIAMONDS


SAVORY OVEN PANCAKES WITH TOPPINGS (RECIPE PAGE 50) 44 real food winter 2015


A Taste of Scandinavia Traditional flavors and a touch of international flair come together in home-style Scandinavian dishes RECIPES BY TINA NORDSTRÖM

W

ith miles and miles of coastline, seafood plays a big part in Scandinavian cuisine—from pickled herring to gravlax and here,

in a creative pancake recipe as well as atop salad and in a lasagna recipe. But there is plenty of creativity to mix in with a savory pork stew and top it all off with delightful baked apples. Bridging the gap between traditional flavors and the new Scandinavian cuisine, chef Tina Nordström, host of PBS’s New Scandinavian Cooking, shares recipes she has carried with her and developed over the years that are now part of her book, Tina Nordström’s Scandinavian Cooking. “I consider it to be my foundation. Thus far, that is. Many of the flavors are from my childhood, but just as many come from other kitchens and traditions—even if I’ve given them my own interpretation,” she writes in the introduction. The book is a tasting key to her own kitchen, she notes—and following is a taste of the book.

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VÄSTERVIK SALAD WITH BOQUERONES AND OLIVES

CAPTION

46 real food winter 2015


Västervik Salad with Boquerones and Olives MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This salad was named after the Swedish town Västervik, since this dish was created during a filming there. Perhaps the ingredients aren’t very “Västervik,” but I was inspired by the pier at Pepparängen, under the sunny skies. Yes, it does take some time to create the boquerones, but it’s definitely worth it. If you’re feeling a little lazy, you can just use regular sardines. 10 3½ 10 1 1⁄2 16 4

ounces new potatoes ounces fresh haricot verts ounces mixed tomatoes shallot, finely chopped cup kalamata olives boquerones (see below) or sardine fillets eggs, boiled for 4 minutes (see Cook’s Note) salt, freshly ground white or black pepper

Dressing 1⁄3 cup olive oil 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon dry sherry or white wine (optional) 1 teaspoon honey ½ lemon, juice 1 tablespoon water ¼ teaspoon salt freshly ground white or black pepper

1. Boil the potatoes in salted water. Add the haricot verts at the end of the cooking process and let them boil for a few minutes. Cut the tomatoes, potatoes, and haricot verts into various-sized pieces. Cut the eggs in half and put to the side. 2. Put all the ingredients for the dressing into a jar and close the lid. Shake vigorously. This is a great way to make and store dressing without any mess. 3. Drizzle the dressing on top of the tomatoes, potatoes, and haricot verts, and fold all of it around until every piece is coated with the dressing. Perhaps puncture some of the tomatoes and let the tomato juice mix with the dressing. Arrange the salad on individual plates or on a large serving platter. Add the egg halves and drizzle some more dressing on top. The salad tastes the best when the potatoes are still a little warm. Cook’s Note For the eggs: Place the eggs in a pot of cold water and let the water boil. Once the water begins to boil, the eggs should cook for exactly 4 minutes. Drain the water and rinse the eggs in cold water until they cool down.

Pickled Herring Boquerones MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Boquerones are often served as tapas in Spain, but instead of herring they use sardines. Keep in mind that it takes some time to prepare the herring. 15 Baltic herring fillets (11⁄3 pounds) 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 11⁄2 tablespoons salt rind strips from 2 lemons 11⁄4 cups olive oil (for preserving) freshly ground black pepper 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 bunch of fresh herbs, for example, thyme and parsley 1. Remove the skin from the herring fillets. Marinate the fillets in lemon juice and salt until the meat has turned white (6–8 hours in the fridge). 2. Drain the lemon juice. Layer the herring with all other ingredients in a glass jar—the oil should cover the fish. Let it rest in the fridge for 24 hours before serving.

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Seafood Lasagna with Spinach and Chanterelles MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I had to have a seafood lasagna recipe in the cookbook and it had to be a great one. If you choose inexpensive, canned seafood, this dish is perfect for a weekday. Or you can omit the seafood completely and use chanterelles for a vegetarian version. 2 1 11 3 14 14 9

yellow onions garlic clove ounces chanterelles tablespoons butter ounces shrimp in brine (net weight) ounces crawfish in brine (net weight) ounces frozen spinach salt, freshly ground white pepper a pinch of sugar ground nutmeg 7 ounces fresh lasagna noodles

Béchamel Sauce butter 2 teaspoons flour 1¼ cups heavy cream 1¼ cups milk salt, freshly ground white or black pepper Editor’s Note: Start with 1 tablespoon butter for béchamel and add 1 to 2 tablespoons flour if the sauce seems too thin.

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Melt the butter for the béchamel sauce in a thick-bottomed pot. Add the flour and let it sauté for a short while. Add heavy cream and milk, a little bit at a time. Let simmer while stirring. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Peel and finely chop the onion. Peel and crush the garlic. Sauté half of the onion with the garlic and the chanterelles in 2 tablespoons of the butter. Remove the pan from the heat. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the chanterelles for garnish, and then add the shrimp and crawfish to the mixture. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Sauté the rest of the onion with the spinach and 1 tablespoon of butter. Season with salt, pepper, and some ground nutmeg. 5. Layer the lasagna noodles in a baking dish with chanterelle mix, béchamel sauce, and spinach. Top with the béchamel sauce and bake in the oven for 40 minutes. 6. Garnish with the chanterelles you set aside earlier and serve right away.

48 real food winter 2015


Basic Pork MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sure, you can certainly stick to the ingredients of the basic recipe. And it will taste great. But the basic recipe is meant to be a foundation for other stews. Dare to try your own flavor combinations as well. 11⁄3 2 ¼ 1 3

European Tenderloin Delight MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This dish is all about the traditional flavors from my side of the world, and with the horseradish for a finisher, you’ll have a clean and fresh stew that everyone will enjoy. 1 batch of basic pork (see recipe at right) that uses 1 pork tenderloin (approx. 11⁄3 pounds) Flavoring: 4 sardine fillets ½ tablespoon dried tarragon 1 tablespoon spicy brown mustard 1⁄2 cup shredded fresh horseradish

1 1¼ 1 1

pounds pork carrots, peeled celery root onion, finely chopped garlic cloves butter and olive oil for sautéing cup water cup heavy cream lemon, zest and juice teaspoon salt freshly ground white or black pepper

1. Cut the meat whatever way you want. Peel and cut the root vegetables and onion diagonally into strips or cubes. Sear the meat and vegetables in a frying pan in butter and oil. 2. Add water, heavy cream, lemon zest, and juice. Reduce until only half the liquid remains. Season with salt and pepper.

1. Clean the tenderloin and cut it into medallions. Peel the root vegetables and onion listed in the basic recipe, and cut them diagonally into strips or cubes. Sear the tenderloin and vegetables in a frying pan with butter or oil. 2. Add water, heavy cream, sardines, tarragon, and mustard. Reduce to half its original volume. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Sprinkle the horseradish on top and serve with mashed potatoes.

CAPTION

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Savory Oven Pancakes with Toppings

Warm Cinnamon Apples with Digestive Biscuit Stuffing

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Savory oven pancakes become glamorous when topped with something tasty. A Swedish tapas!

An apple pie within an apple. Everything can be substituted, if need be. Use tea biscuits instead of digestive biscuits, or even chocolate cookies if you’re so inclined. Shred some lemon zest into the butter, or dare to omit the cinnamon and use ground fennel and anise instead. But before you start experimenting, get familiar with this recipe.

1 3 5 ½ 2

cup flour cups milk eggs teaspoon salt tablespoons butter

Toppings: - bacon with lingonberries (or cranberries) - smoked salmon with sour cream, dill, and horseradish - boiled red beets with capers and lemon - prosciutto with cream-sautéed mushrooms and parsley 1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. Mix the flour with half of the milk and all of the eggs. Whisk until you have a smooth batter. Add the rest of the milk and the salt. 3. Put the butter in a baking sheet and place it in the oven to melt the butter. Pour the batter into the baking sheet and bake the pancake in the center of the oven for about 30 minutes. 4. Cut the oven pancake into squares and serve with any of the above toppings.

8 8 1⁄2 1 3 8

apples, preferably Macoun crumbled digestive cookies cup finely chopped hazelnuts stick + 2½ tablespoons butter, room temperature tablespoons ground cinnamon cinnamon sticks maple syrup or honey

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Core the apples and slice off the tops. Place the apples in a baking pan. 3. Mix the cookie crumbs and hazelnuts with the butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Press the mixture into the opening in the apple that was left after coring, and place the “lid” on top. Push a cinnamon stick into each apple and drizzle some syrup on top. Bake in the oven for 20–30 minutes, until the apples have turned soft. 4. Serve the apples with vanilla sauce (recipe below).

Vanilla Sauce 12⁄3 1⁄2 3 11⁄2 2 3⁄4

cups milk vanilla stick, scored lengthwise with seeds removed egg yolks tablespoons sugar teaspoons cornstarch cup whipped cream

1. Bring the milk and the vanilla stick to a boil and let simmer for 3–4 minutes. Set aside to rest for 10 minutes. 2. Whisk the egg yolks with sugar and cornstarch. Add the vanilla milk and stir. Pour the mixture back into the pot and simmer at low heat until the sauce has thickened. Let it cool in a cold water bath while stirring. Remove the vanilla stick. Keep the sauce chilled in the fridge until ready to serve. 3. Just before serving, fold the whipped cream into the vanilla sauce. ■

NUTRITION

EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM TINA NORDSTÖM’S SCANDINAVIAN COOKING: SIMPLE RECIPES FOR HOME-STYLE SCANDINAVIAN CUISINE BY TINA NORDSTRÖM; PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLIE DREVSTAM; ILLUSTRATIONS BY STINA WIRSÉN; TRANSLATED BY VERONICA CHOICE. COPYRIGHT 2014, SKYHORSE PUBLISHING, INC.

VÄSTERVIK SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 693 (440 from fat); FAT 50g (sat. 9g); CHOL 277mg; SODIUM 1341mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 40g

SEAFOOD LASAGNA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 692 (329 from fat); FAT 37g (sat. 22g); CHOL 394mg; SODIUM 464mg; CARB 45g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 47g

50 real food winter 2015

EUROPEAN TENDERLOIN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 519 (327 from fat); FAT 37g (sat. 19g); CHOL 172mg; SODIUM 928mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 36g

OVEN PANCAKES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 150 (57 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 3g); CHOL 114mg; SODIUM 224mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 8g

CINNAMON APPLES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 620 (357 from fat); FAT 41g (sat. 20g); CHOL 80mg; SODIUM 337mg; CARB 68g; FIBER 14g; PROTEIN 5g

VANILLA SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 172 (99 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 6g); CHOL 165mg; SODIUM 59mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 6g


WARM CINNAMON APPLES WITH DIGESTIVE BISCUIT STUFFING AND VANILLA SAUCE

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52 real food winter 2015


Zen and the

Art of Baking

PHOTO BLAKE LITTLE

The “Ace of Cakes” offers sage advice to help you bake like a pro at home

Duff Goldman is stuffing an orange into his mouth when I catch him on the phone; it’s the first break he has had in hours. This isn’t uncommon for him: Spurred on by the success of Charm City Cakes, the Baltimore bakery he opened in 2002, he has been living a bicoastal life since 2012, when he opened Charm City Cakes West in Los Angeles, as well as Cakemix, a cake decorating studio where customers can try their hand at creating Goldman-quality masterpieces. When he’s not running between bakeries, he’s likely in the filming studio, whether it’s to appear on Oprah or The Tonight Show or to film his own show. He’s been a Food Network favorite ever since the first season of Ace of Cakes, a show that chronicled the audacious cake-baking challenges his bakery has become known for. Launched in 2006, it ran 10 seasons (two per year) until 2011—it was one of the network’s most highly rated shows of all time. You also may have caught him competing on Iron Chef America or Chopped, or watched him motorcycle across America in Sugar High, stopping in bakeries along the way to tease out savvy baking tips and tricks. He doles out advice as much as he brings it in on shows such as Cupcake Wars and Duff Till Dawn, his blend of sass and warm encouragement making him a popular judge. Prior to his television career, he put in time at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, in the baking program, as well as in restaurants such as Thomas Keller’s French Laundry and the Vail Cascade Hotel in Colorado. But that was before he decided to launch a cake decorating business out of his apartment—the business that turned into a bicoastal bakery empire, with his own line of cake pans and decorating supplies that’s a little racier than what you’ll find from Wilton.

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

At the moment, however, he’s moving houses. “You see, my next book is a soup cookbook, and I really wanted a place where I could just hunker down and make soup,” he says, explaining that he’s always been fascinated by the universal appeal of soup—every culture has soup. “It’s like a smile,” he says. “I’m a grown-up now; I can write about savory foods, right?” he asks with a smile in his voice. But soup from the “Ace of Cakes”? Is a pastry chef allowed to write a book about savory foods? I am teasing—but only partly, for bakers are largely considered a breed apart from cooks. Bakers are supposedly the quiet, careful ones, the scientists in the kitchen (or, as a chef once interviewed in these pages told me, “They are the ones that make their bed in the morning and fold their clothes neatly.”) Cooks are the hot-tempered artists, able to give greater rein to their creative impulses. The silence on the other end of the line is momentarily deafening. “I think you know what I have to say about that,” he says with faux aggression, his growl turning into a laugh. “Baking and cooking are so much more similar than disparate,” he says. “In either one of them, you have to be mindful of what you’re doing or you’re going to do it terribly.” This misconception is in fact what propelled him to write his latest book, Duff Bakes: Think & Bake Like a Pro at Home. “You don’t have to be good at math or chemistry to bake,” he insists. “It’s just like any other craft in that you need to learn technique. Anybody can learn it. I did, and I’m not special.” That sounds preposterously self-effacing given his current fame, but he points out that he started baking only because it was the sole position he could land in a fine-dining restaurant. “Up until I applied

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—Duff

Host Bobby Deen and Guest Judges Nancy Fuller Ginsberg, Duff Goldman and Lorraine Pascal during evaluations, as seen on Food Network’s Holiday Baking Championship, Season 2.

54 real food winter 2015

“Once you understand the physical limitations of your medium, you can work with it.” Working in the bakery, he figured out from experience that “all-purpose” flour isn’t actually all-purpose; for some foods, bread flour works better, while others are more successful with softer, finer cake flour. When it came to biscuits, he figured out that if he left little lumps of cold lard in the dough, his biscuits would be flakier than if he mixed it in evenly. Either way, the biscuits were edible, but he liked the flaky ones better, so that became his recipe. (Yes, the recipe is in Duff Bakes, and they are awesome.) If you don’t know your tools, you can still cook, but you’re limited in how far you can go. “Some people can make just one or two things well, and that’s cool. But it’s like on the cooking competitions when the chefs go to the fridge and there’s a bunch of random ingredients inside. They aren’t thinking, ‘Pork, blueberries, risotto,’ ” Goldman says. “They are thinking, ‘Gamey protein, sweetness and starch.’ ” He tells a story about an anecdote in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance in which a guy needs a part for his fancy BMW motorcycle, and builds it himself out of a beer can rather than buying the expensive part from the company. “It’s the difference between a romantic perspective and the classic perspective. The romantic sees everything on the surface; the classic is not focused on what it is but on what it does.” When it comes down to it, Goldman’s ability to see beyond the thing and focus instead on the function is exactly what has made him such a sought-after baker. This is a guy who didn’t say, “Are you crazy?!” when someone asked for a working lighthouse in a cake, or when the National Hockey League approached this former hockey player for a giant Zamboni made from chocolate cake. He just called on the skills he’d learned as a teenager fixing up old cars and as an artist versed in welding as well as paint, and applied it to flour, butter, sugar and eggs. Of course, not many people have the opportunity to hone their skills and familiarity with these ingredients by baking biscuits daily for two years straight. When I ask him how to best get into baking when it’s not a familiar task, he suggests starting with quick breads. “Things like muffins are really very forgiving,” he says. “You can over mix them, and you might know it from the texture, but people will generally still like them.” I think back to his biscuit experience: flaky or cakey, they both taste good; you can fine-tune your technique to get the texture you prefer. The biggest mistake, he says, is to start with cookies. “Baking cookies is an art in itself.

HEADSHOT © CHARM CITY CAKES SET PHOTO © 2015, TELEVISION FOOD NETWORK, G.P.

“Baking and cooking are so much more similar than disparate,” he says. “In either one of them, you have to be mindful of what you’re doing or you’re going to do it terribly... It’s just like any other craft in that you need to learn technique. Anybody can learn it. I did, and I’m not special.”

at Charleston [chef Cindy Wolf ’s acclaimed Baltimore restaurant], my experience had been at McDonald’s, greasy spoons and Sandwich Pizza,” he says, referring to a place in Sandwich, Mass., where he grew up. “Chef Wolf took one look at my résumé and said, ‘You don’t know how to cook.’” But he was eager, so Wolf offered him a position making biscuits and cornbread. He took it. “I figured if I could get my foot in the door, I’d probably be able to move up.” He spent the next two years on biscuit and cornbread duty. “It’s interesting: At the time, I’d never baked before; it was all a mystery to me,” he recalls. “But by doing it every day, I started to notice things—if I added a little too much buttermilk or flour, how the texture would change; if I mixed too long, what would happen.” In many ways, the process wasn’t so different from how he worked as an artist. When he was in high school, his mom enrolled him in art classes at the Corcoran School of Art in Washington, D.C., to keep him out of trouble; less formally, he was developing a reputation as a graffiti artist. “First I got really interested in surfaces, trying out the different effects whether I was painting on cinder blocks versus concrete versus glass, and I’d figure out that, oh, I need to treat it like this for this material, and differently for another,” he remembers. “Then there were the cans of spray paint: If I took the nozzle off my mom’s hair spray, what would happen? And then I’d be in the drugstore buying up all the aerosol cans I could find and ripping the tops off of them, trying them all to get different textures.” Goldman has always approached baking in a similar spirit. “Whether you’re making a mural on the side of a subway train or baking a cake, you have to understand your craft,” he says.


It’s like alchemy. You have to be so gentle,” he says, getting riled up at the thought. “There are way more bad cookies out there than good. It’s like customer service: We’re so used to bad customer service we don’t seem to even notice it anymore.” But wait: What about that recipe for Elvis Cookies, where he specifies “a pinch” of baking powder? How can baking cookies be so tricky if you can just estimate something like baking powder? Goldman laughs. “I’m so glad you noticed that. I did it on purpose, just to prove that in fact there is a lot of give, a lot of leeway in baking. I’m hoping that people will try the recipe and find out that they can do it—that they’ll get a good cookie whether they put in a little pinch or a big pinch. And maybe they’ll make them twice, and see what happens with a different-sized pinch.” What makes a much bigger difference, he says, is how present you are. “You have to be in the moment,” he says. “You need to listen to your cookies, be able to say, ‘I need to pull these two minutes before they are done because they are going to continue baking on the baking sheet, and I want this texture.’ ” Listening to him talk, it’s almost as if baking is a form of meditation. “You can come at it from a lot of emotional places,” he says. “If you’re baking angry, you’re going to make something gross, but if you are using baking to get out of that place, you can do it. And if you’re in a place of calm, you’re going to bake well.” That’s why, Goldman says, he often bakes in silence—his phone off, no radio.“We don’t have enough silence,” he says. “We’re never not attached. I would bet that every therapist in the country would say that we could all use a little bit of silence.” And we definitely need better cookies. So turn off your devices and get baking; the all-forgiving Elvis Cookies recipe is to the right. ■

RECIPE AND PHOTO FROM DUFF BAKES BY DUFF GOLDMAN AND SARA GONZALES. COPYRIGHT © 2015 BY DUFF GOLDMAN. REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF WILLIAM MORROW, AN IMPRINT OF HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS.

Elvis Cookies MAKES ABOUT 30 COOKIES

The King deserves a cookie, and being in an Elvis tribute band myself (I play stand-up bass), I’m the one to create it for him. The King was known for his love of peanut butter and bananas. That’s a winning combo, but I added a few extra goodies that I think the King would approve of. Go buy some bananas now so that they can start ripening, and let’s take care of business. –Duff

3 2 1 2 1 1 2 3 2½ 1¼ 5 10

cooking spray cups sugar sticks (1 cup) butter, softened cup peanut butter (crunchy or smooth, your call) tablespoons molasses tablespoon pure vanilla extract big pinch of baking powder* garlic clove, minced** teaspoons kosher salt very ripe bananas cups all-purpose flour cups chocolate chips ounces hard pretzels, smashed (about ¾ cup pretzel crumbs) bacon strips, cooked crisp and chopped fine

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and spray a baking sheet or sheets with cooking spray. 2. In a big bowl, mix the sugar, butter, peanut butter, molasses, vanilla, baking powder, garlic, and salt until it’s all one color. Add the bananas and mash them up real good in there. 3. Add the flour and gently mix until incorporated, with no lumps. 4. Fold in the chocolate chips, pretzel pieces, and bacon. 5. Using two spoons, form balls about the size of a large walnut and drop them on the prepared baking sheet(s) at least 2 inches apart. Place the sheet(s) in the fridge to chill for 10 minutes. 6. Bake for 12 minutes, or until golden on the outside and super gooey in the middle, just like the King would want them. Let cool on a wire rack off the baking sheet. * Yes, I said a big pinch of baking powder. Get over it. ** This is optional, but just so you know, the garlic isn’t weird. There’s a long tradition of putting garlic in chocolate chip cookies. Maybe to keep the vampires from eating your treats. Who knows, but look it up if you want to. I know what I’m talking about.

winter 2015 real food 55


pairings

A Match for the Medley Consider more than the bird when pairing wine with your holiday dinner BY MARY SUBIALKA

T

urkey itself is quite wine-friendly and can pair well with many whites and reds—it’s often the side dishes served with a traditional turkey dinner that add more savory and sweet flavors to the mix, factoring into a wine selection. If you’re looking for a red to join the festivities, an elegant velvety wine that is also fruity, such as Pinot Noir, works well with the medley of flavors at the turkey-centered holiday dinner table. Light- to medium-bodied Pinot Noir pleases the palate more than a full-bodied red, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, which may overpower the meal. Domestic Pinot Noir offerings from the windswept hills of California’s cool Carneros region offer a good choice, as they tend to be traditionally lighter than those from other regions in the state, and can have notes of berries and herbs that mirror the meal—another reason to raise a glass to the season. ■

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food winter 2015


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Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Winter 2015  

Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Winter 2015