Lunds and Byerly’s
happiest Simple yet sumptuous small plates to delight at your holiday soirees
Learn ab our ne out w
ALL-N ATU PREM R AL IUM PORK (PAGE 10)
BACON-WRAPPED ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND SPICED AND CARAMELIZED NUTS (RECIPES PAGE 24)
TURKEY: This Thanksgiving standout shines throughout the season A LITTLE DESSERT: Bite-size sweets with big appeal GLORIOUS GINGER: The root of vibrant flavor and health-giving benefits
Making A Difference Physician changes lives inside and outside the clinic. CONGRATULATIONS to Dr. Charles Crutchfield, III, on his selection as a ‘Top Doctor’ every year since 2000! Dr. Crutchfield has also been recognized by “Minnesota Physician” as one of the 100 most influential health care leaders in Minnesota. “I want all my patients to look good and feel great with beautiful skin,” says Charles E. Crutchfield III, M.D. “When you come to Crutchfield Dermatology, the emphasis is on quality, in-depth skincare knowledge and service. That’s what really sets us apart.” A long list of awards and honors is evidence that Dr. Crutchfield is good at what he does. Recently selected by NBC News/The Grio as one of the 100 most influential African-Americans in the U.S., he is humbled by the recognition he receives and shares the credit. “I realize that no one gets where they are without the help of many people. I’m now at a point in my career where I can give back.” Dr. Crutchfield’s professional accomplishments are matched by generous community outreach and support. His commitment to the community runs deep, especially for students – through scholarships, textbook donations, and mentorship. A Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School, he is a mentor in the University of Minnesota’s Future Doctors of America program, where undergraduate students of color shadow Dr. Crutchfield during patient appointments. They learn the art of medicine and are introduced to a wide variety of opportunities. Dr. Crutchfield recently received the Minnesota Medical Association Foundation’s Minority Affairs Meritorious Service Award as an outstanding mentor dedicated to students within the program. His medical students at the University of Minnesota Medical School have honored him three times as Teacher of the Year, and Dr. Crutchfield’s preceptorships through Harlem’s Touro College of Medicine so impressed two medical student recipients that they relocated to the Twin Cities to practice. Dr. Crutchfield’s definition of community enthusiastically includes the Minnesota Twins, and his love of baseball occasionally surfaces in his philanthropic work. During his residency, he learned a hospice patient and fellow baseball fan dreamed of meeting Kirby Puckett. He arranged the meeting, and the Mayo Clinic acknowledged his kindness with the Karis Humanitarian Award. When Twins player Bert Blyleven accepted a dare to eat night crawlers in exchange for a hundred dollar donation to Parkinson’s research, Dr. Crutchfield upped the ante to a thousand dollars, challenging other medical clinics to join him. His challenge raised almost $15,000 for the Parkinson’s Association of Minnesota. Dr. Crutchfield also donates to the Twins Community Fund to build ballparks for children in the inner city. “Sports give children focus and a sense of personal achievement,” he explains. “Many sports require a substantial investment, but baseball is financially accessible. You give a kid a glove, a ball, and a bat, and they are
good to go.” Remembering school days when he struggled with dyslexia himself, Crutchfield serves as a Hero Benefactor for the Reading Center, stepping in when available scholarships aren’t sufficient to cover the number of hopeful students. For the High school for Recording Arts, founded in Saint Paul to encourage at-risk youth to finish high school by linking lyric writing to English and marketing to mathematics, Dr. Crutchfield contributes funding and scholarships. Dr. Crutchfield provides substantial support, including financial contributions, and he encourages his staff to participate in breast cancer, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s walks. He has also been given the “Patriotic Employer Award” from the Minnesota National Guard for his support of our troops and the “Gold Triangle Award” from the American Academy of Dermatology for promoting health-care awareness in underserved areas. He offered free skin and scar treatments for the survivors of the tragic Minneapolis 35W bridge collapse and received the first “Physician Health Care Hero” by Medica, Twin Cities Business and KARE11 for “Outstanding contributors to the quality of health care in Minnesota.” His philanthropy also extends to supporting Camp Discovery for children with skin diseases. For over a decade, Dr. Crutchfield has been an active supporter and nominator, dedicating all royalties from the dermatology textbook he coauthored to the program. Once a child is accepted into the camp, the entire experience is covered by donations. “As a child, I loved going to camp. But as a dermatologist working with children with skin diseases, I see so many kids ashamed to go because they are afraid to expose themselves to being teased. Camp Discovery is a place where kids can be kids again.” Dr. Crutchfield’s effort extends to establishing a lectureship at the University of Minnesota honoring his parents, Susan Crutchfield M.D., then the youngest ever and first African-American female graduate of the medical school, and Charles Crutchfield, Sr., M.D., the first practicing African- American Obstetrician-Gynecologist in the Twin Cities who went on to deliver almost 10,000 babies. He has also co-authored a children’s book for “little leaguers” extolling the virtues of being sun-safe and using sun Protection. Little Charles Hits a Home Run is available on Amazon.com, Kindle, Nook and iPad. Proceeds benefit the Twins Community Fund and Camp Discovery. His contributions continue. His latest medical endeavor is an initiative requiring auto manufacturers, cell phone companies, and insurance companies to equip cars with technology disabling a phone’s texting function while driving. Visit crutchfielddermatology.com/safetexting for more information. For Dr. Crutchfield, giving back has become a way of life.
Crutchfield Dermatology • 1185 Town Centre Drive • Suite 101 • Eagan • 651-209-3600 www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com
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N O F E E S A N D N O E X P I RAT I O N
Photo by Troy Thies.
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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.
real food winter 2014
18 The Happiest Hour Welcome guests with snacks and sips anytime throughout the season. BY SERENA BASS
28 Tremendous Turkey Festive dishes fit for any gathering. BY MOLLY STEVENS
38 Glorious Ginger Enliven dishes with this vibrant spice. BY NINA SIMONDS
46 A Little Dessert Bite-size sweets with big appeal. BY FIONA PEARCE
52 Off Duty Chef Marcus Samuelsson shares tips for layering on flavor in his new cookbook. BY TARA Q. THOMAS
Departments 4 Bites Cast iron cooking: Sausage and Apple Strata RECIPE BY ELLEN BROWN
6 Kitchen Skills Roll out the roulade cake. BY JASON ROSS
8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Pomegranate: Juicy jewel of the season. BY AMIE VALPONE
56 Pairings Break out the bubbly for more than a toast. BY MARY SUBIALKA
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Bacon-Wrapped Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Spiced and Caramelized Nuts (page 24). This spread: Pomegranate-Honey Pavlovas (page 50). Photographs by Terry Brennan
PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR JOEL SCHETTLER SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES JON REYNOLDS SENIOR EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES MINDY LOOYENGA AND KELLY WIEBE
VOLUME 10, NUMBER 4 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.
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Iron-Clad Promise A cast iron pan may be your grandma’s but what you cook in it can be far from old school.
cast iron skillet is like a Swiss Army knife—it does everything and everything well, writes cookbook author Ellen Brown in The New Cast Iron Skillet Cookbook. It goes from the stove to the oven to the table, eliminating the need for an ovenproof cooking pan and serving dish. Plus, when it’s on the table, it keeps the food warmer longer than a serving dish would. Cast iron skillets are experiencing a rise in popularity with good reason—they’re versatile and reliable, they heat evenly, and they’re inexpensive relative to other metal cookware. While the skillet hasn’t changed in a century or more, the foods we cook in it have, notes Brown. Grandma used it to cook cornbread, and so do we, but it’s doubtful she added Parmesan cheese and sun-dried tomatoes to hers. From breakfast, such as the following strata recipe, to Brie and tropical fruit quesadillas or salmon with balsamic Thai chili glaze, these are not your grandma’s recipes. —Mary Subialka
Sausage and Apple Strata MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
PHOTO AND RECIPE REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE NEW CAST IRON SKILLET COOKBOOK © 2014 BY STERLING EPICURE, AN IMPRINT OF STERLING PUBLISHING CO. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUY AMBROSINO.
The next time you need a hearty strata for a brisk weekend brunch, this is the one to make. Slightly sweet raisin bread works well with the sweetness of the apple, and the sausage adds a bit of heat along with savory notes. I usually serve this with a red cabbage coleslaw to add some crunch and color to the plate. —Ellen Brown 8 large eggs 3 cups whole milk salt and ground black pepper 1 cup grated mozzarella cheese 1 (¾-pound) loaf raisin bread, cut into ½-inch slices ¾ pound bulk breakfast sausage
2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 small onion, diced 1 large Golden Delicious or Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, quartered, and diced 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Combine the eggs, milk, and salt and pepper to taste in large mixing bowl and whisk well. Add the cheese and bread and stir well. Press down so that the bread absorbs the liquid. 2. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Crumble the sausage into the skillet, breaking up lumps with a fork. Cook the sausage, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, or until browned and no longer pink. Remove the sausage from the skillet with a slotted spoon and set aside. 3. Return the skillet to the stove and reduce the heat to medium. Add the butter and onion. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add the apple, sugar, sage, and cinnamon to the skillet. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the apple is soft. 4. Remove the skillet from the heat. Stir in the sausage and the bread mixture. 5. Cover the skillet and bake in the center of the oven for 30 minutes. Remove the cover and bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the top is lightly browned. Allow the strata to cool for 5 minutes before serving. Notes: • Raisin bread is my idea of a “convenience food.” It’s a real food that contains real ingredients. If you use a plain bread, increase the cinnamon to 1 teaspoon and add ¾ cup raisins to the custard mixture. • The strata mixture can be prepared for baking up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated in a tightly covered container. Allow it to sit at room temperature for 1 hour before baking. ■
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Roulade Don’t be fooled by its impressive looks—this cake couldn’t be easier. BY JASON ROSS
olled cake, jellyroll, roulade—a cake by any other name wouldn’t taste as sweet. Part baking science and part art, the spiraled layers of icing and cake don’t require much fuss but make a big visual impact. Fill these thin sponge cakes with almost anything: simple whipped cream, jelly, or creamy chocolate icing.
Tricks of the Trade How to Fold Cake Batter Folding helps keep batter light and filled with air, while overworking can deflate a batter, leaving the cake flat and dense. Using a rubber spatula, add one-third of the lighter batter (the egg whites) into a bowl of thicker batter (the egg yolks) and mix together. This will temper the weight of the yolks and make it easier to fold together the batters. Next, pour the lightened mixture into the remaining lighter batter. To fold together, cut down through the batter in the center of the bowl and pull the batter up and over along the side of the bowl. Turn the bowl 90 degrees and repeat until batters are completely combined with no streaks. For this recipe, add flour and repeat the same folding process until incorporated. How to Roll a Roulade Cake Rolling a sheet cake is the fun part, if there are kids around you might even let them help a bit. The most important thing is to start with a tight curve at the beginning of the roll. Using your fingertips, fold the sheet cake into a tight roll, rolling up the frosting as you go. The tight curve will end up as the center of the spiral, as the frosting and cake roll around each other. As you roll try to keep the cake straight, checking the edges to feel if you’re straying. It’s like rolling up a rug—just more fun!
PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS
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Milk Chocolate Coconut Roulade Cake MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Sweetened coconut lends a dramatic look and a deep nutty flavor to this rolled cake. 5 ¼ ¼ ¾
eggs, separated cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar teaspoon salt cup sifted flour
powdered sugar, for sprinkling 4 cups Milk Chocolate Ganache Frosting (recipe below) 1½ cups sweetened coconut flake whipped cream
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Partially fill a wide pot with a couple inches water and bring to a simmer for a double boiler; ensure water will not touch bottom of a bowl set on double boiler. 3. In a mixing bowl, combine egg yolks and ¼ cup sugar and whisk over double boiler until warm. Remove from heat and whisk, using a hand mixer if available, 5 minutes, until pale yellow, thick, and cooled. 4. In a separate bowl, whip egg whites with remaining 3 tablespoons sugar and salt until mixture is light and thick, and holds a soft peak when whisk is pulled from bowl. 5. Fold together egg mixtures. Fold in flour. Line an 18-by-13-inch jellyroll pan with parchment paper. Use an offset metal cake spatula or rubber spatula to spread batter evenly into pan. 6. Bake 7 to 8 minutes, until golden brown and springy to the touch. 7. While sheet cake bakes, lay out a clean dishtowel or cloth napkin and sprinkle on powdered sugar to prevent sticking. 8. Remove sheet cake from oven and run a knife along pan edges. Turn cake out of pan onto towel and carefully remove parchment paper. Sprinkle powdered sugar on top of sheet cake to prevent sticking. Roll cake into towel, forming a cylinder. Let cool. 9. Once cooled, unroll cake from towel. Spread frosting in a ¼-inch-thick layer onto cake, leaving a ½-inch edge of cake unfrosted on all sides to allow frosting to spread during rolling. 10. Roll cake and trim edges on each side. Don’t worry if cracks form; they will be covered with frosting. Using a metal cake spatula or rubber spatula, frost top of roll. While the frosting is still sticky, sprinkle sweetened coconut flake over the top. 11. To serve, trim cake on both ends. Slice into ¾-inch-thick slices, dipping knife into warm water and drying with a towel to cut cleanly through cake. Serve with whipped cream. Cake will keep, covered, at room temperature 1 day or frozen unfrosted a few weeks.
Milk Chocolate Ganache Frosting MAKES 4 CUPS
Make this chocolate icing days in advance and make extra—it’s great spread on toast for a decadent morning treat. 1½ pounds milk chocolate chips 2 cups heavy cream 1. Place chocolate chips in a mixing bowl. 2. In a small pot, heat cream to nearly simmering and pour over chocolate chips. Let sit 3 to 5 minutes. 3. Using a whisk, mix chocolate into warm cream to form a creamy mixture. 4. Let thicken and set at least an hour. Frosting will keep up to 5 days covered and unrefrigerated. ■ MILK CHOCOLATE COCONUT ROULADE CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 756 (416 from fat); FAT 47g (sat. 30g); CHOL 180mg; SODIUM 215mg; CARB 73g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 12g
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is known for being New York City’s caterer to the stars and has thrown parties for Andy Warhol, Giorgio Armani, Kate Spade, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nathan Lane, and countless others. Her cookbook, Serena, Food & Stories, won the James Beard Award for best entertaining book. Currently, Bass is also the executive chef at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York, and holds cooking classes in and around St. Paul, Minnesota (visit serenabass.com for more info). Photograph by David Loftus.
is an award-winning author, journalist, and one of the country’s leading authorities on Asian food and culture. In 2001, Newsweek named her one of “America’s Top Twenty-Five Asian Hands.” She is the author of 11 books on Chinese cuisine and culture, including the best-selling A Spoonful of Ginger and Spices of Life, both of which won both the IACP and the James Beard Foundation Book Award for Health. Her latest cookbook, Simple Asian Meals was published in 2012. Her popular food, health, and lifestyle website is at spicesoflife.com.
is an award-winning cookbook author and cooking teacher. Her two cookbooks, All About Roasting and All About Braising both earned James Beard Awards and IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) awards. Her recipes and tips have appeared in Fine Cooking, The Wall Street Journal, Everyday with Rachel Ray, Real Simple, Bon Appétit, Saveur, and other publications. Classically trained as a chef in France, Molly has directed programs and taught at the French Culinary Institute, New England Culinary Institute, and L’Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Burgundy, France and Venice, Italy. Molly continues to travel and teach cooking classes across the country. She lives near Burlington, Vermont.
Tara Q. Thomas
gave up cooking professionally to become a culinaryobsessed writer. She’s been a senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the past decade and writes regularly for the Denver Post, Culture, Gastronomica, and Gourmet. com. The Brooklyn, New York–based mom of two is also author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics.
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is the editor-in-chief of TheHealthyApple.com; she is a Manhattan-based personal chef, culinary nutritionist, professional recipe developer, food photographer and writer specializing in simple gluten-free and dairy-free ‘clean’ recipes for the home cook. Amie’s work appears on Martha Stewart Fox News Health, Stewart, WebMD The Huffington WebMD, Post The Food Network Post, Network, Glamour magazine, Clean Eating magazine, SHAPE magazine, Prevention magazine, PBS, and many others.
Lara Miklasevics Terry Brennan
is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”
is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.
began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.
Lunds and Byerly’s welcome LUNDS Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Edina: 952-926-6833 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka: 952-935-0198 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222
BYERLY’S Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul: 651-735-6340 Woodbury: 651-999-1200
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FROM OUR EXTENDED FAMILY TO YOURS
here are so many reasons I’m grateful for the opportunity to be a member of our company’s extended family here at Lunds and Byerly’s. First and foremost it’s because of the more than 4,000 employees who share a commitment to providing you with extraordinary food, exceptional service, and passionate expertise. Our company’s extended family is overflowing with culinary experts who are always looking for ways to make our food offerings even more extraordinary. Take, for example, our new artisan breads and all-natural premium pork. We’ve had wonderful offerings in both of these categories throughout the years, but our remarkably talented team thought we could do even better. That’s the passion behind their expertise at work! Bea James, our senior manager of organic and natural products and an accomplished baker herself, recently collaborated with a local artisan bread baker to develop true-to-the-craft, yet one-of-a-kind, artisan breads. Each variety is handmade in small batches using all-natural grains and flours (see story on page 13). This summer we also introduced our new line of all-natural premium pork that meets our increasingly high quality standards. All of our pork now comes from two local family farms where
the pigs are never given growth hormones or antibiotics and are able to exercise their natural behaviors outdoors or in barns that are crate-free. It Tres truly is a labor of Lund love for our local farmers, and I encourage you to learn more about one of these families on pages 10-11. These are just a couple examples of how we’re striving each and every day to raise the bar even higher throughout every area of our grocery stores. It’s deeply inspiring to see the energy and passion that go into developing new offerings you’ll be proud to serve your family and friends at your holiday dinner table. We’re proud to serve them to ours! From our family to yours, we wish you a joyous holiday season. Thank you for the opportunity to serve you! Sincerely,
Tres Lund President and CEO
Download our app by texting LBAPP to 55155. Join our Text Club by texting DEALS to 55155. Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys
LundsandByerlys.com real food 9
Lunds and Byerly’s
We Know Our Pork Farmers New: Lunds and Byerly’s All-Natural Premium Pork BY SCOTT KERSTING Director of Meat and Seafood
10 real food winter 2014
Lunds and Byerly’s meat department
t’s pitch black and the air is heavy with early morning dew. The alarm clock breaks through the silence. Steve and Missy Hennen have an important day ahead of them. But then again every day is important when you have 600 mouths to feed. Not to worry. They are the professionals. Steve and Missy rouse their children, share a family breakfast, and head out the door to put in a long, hard day of work, just as they have done for the past 26 years. Their craft and livelihood are rooted deep in Midwest family tradition, immense passion for those they care for, and a strong belief in hard work. After all, running a hog farm is no small feat. The Hennen Farm is one of two local, family farms in Minnesota and Iowa where the livestock for our new line of all-natural premium pork is raised. From the pigs’ humane and crate-free living environment to the absence of hormones and antibiotics to a vegetarian diet free of animal by-products, our pork farmers respect the livestock, land, and resources for which they are entrusted. We’re proud to have the Hennen Farm as a new partner in our efforts to provide you with the best pork possible! Located near Marshall, Minnesota, the Hennen Farm is not your typical hog farm. Family farms that actually birth the pigs (known as farrowing) and then raise them are becoming a rarity, which is one of many reasons Steve and Missy love their work. “We’ve always liked the birthing process,” Steve said, “and our children’s love of piglets has now refueled our love of pigs even more.” Steve and Missy are no strangers to the pork industry. They were both raised on hog farms their fathers started back in the 1960s and have been diligently working with pigs
THE HENNEN FAMILY ON THEIR FARM NEAR MARSHALL, MINNESOTA.
ever since. “When you grow up on a farm,” Missy explained, “you learn good work ethics that carry through your whole life.” Their farm currently has approximately 300 sows that each farrow about two times per year, meaning the Hennens can have 600 pigs to care for at any given time. During the gestation period, their sows are in deeply-bedded, open pens and able to go outside. The sows are moved to a separate barn for farrowing, where they can turn around in their pens, but not enough to harm the newborn pigs. Each pen is also equipped with pads to keep the pigs dry, as opposed to straw that can cause heat exhaustion or disease. Once the new pigs are born, they stay on the Hennen Farm for three to four weeks and then go to nurseries (also known as finishing barns). Steve explained that it’s better to have separate sites for farrowing, finishing, and processing because it prevents disease. Separate locations for each stage also means those sites are able to be smaller and disinfected more often because pigs are there for shorter amounts of time. The biggest change since Steve and Missy began their hog farm has been consumer curiosity. More and more people want to know how their food is grown and where it comes from, and the Hennens are happy to show them. “We love our farm because we can educate people on how pigs are raised,” Missy said proudly. “Consumers should know where their food comes from. I think it’s great they want to know more about their food!” Our new all-natural premium pork comes from livestock that is cared for from birth to finish. Visit our meat department to pick some up today and enjoy the good feelings that go along with it. ■
LundsandByerlys.com real food 11
limit your holiday menu only to your imagination Convection microwaves can bake and roast just like a traditional oven, so you never have to choose sides when preparing dishes.
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Lunds and Byerly’s bakery
Love is All We Knead Our new artisan breads feature authentic, natural ingredients. BY BEA JAMES Senior Manager of Organic, Natural, and Health and Wellness
he light crackle of a fresh baguette. The aroma of challah that takes you back to your grandmother’s kitchen. That cozy feeling of cutting into a warm loaf of bread fresh out of the oven. Artisan breads have a wonderful way of delighting every one of our senses. In our quest to develop what we believe is among the best in artisan breads, we partnered with a local artisan bread baker to create nearly two dozen breads featuring authentic, natural ingredients that are as beautiful as they are delicious. One of my personal favorites is our golden flax semolina. It’s incredibly tender on the inside with a slightly nutty sweetness from the golden flax seeds and honey. Another favorite is our streusel bread, which originated from my grandmother’s challah recipe. This artisan bread is made with cinnamon and honey and is covered with a buttery streusel topping. While nearly anyone can bake bread, the art of making a loaf of bread is something that requires tradition. It’s an art passed down, by hand, through generations of previous artisan bakers. Such is the case with the remarkable local artisan bread baker we partnered with to create our new artisan breads. Each of our breads begins with the simplest of ingredients: flour, water, salt, and a sourdough ferment or yeast. It’s then critical to provide tender loving care to each ingredient throughout the process. When you develop the sourdough ferment, for example, it must be fed ingredients on a daily basis while always being kept at the proper temperature. Not a single feeding can be missed or the ferment, which is critical to the bread rising, loses its active ability. By carefully controlling the fermentation to exacting standards, it produces amazing artisan breads with flavors ranging from a light, delicate taste to a strong, rustic tang. Yeasted breads have a lot to offer, too. We have several traditional yeasted breads that are perfect for sandwiches, as yeast does not create holes like sourdough ferment does. The flavors of yeasted breads also bring simplicity as wholesome grains are the primary flavor contributor. These breads also tend to have a slightly longer shelf life. We know there is growing demand to serve unique, homemade breads that you just can’t find in most grocery stores. You can now find them in our bakeries. Be sure to stop by and ask for a sample! ■
A sampling of our new artisan breads
Signature Rustic White Rustic because of the big bold shape; signature because we love it so much we wanted our name on it.
Signature Levain Boule Authentic and true to the craft of artisan bread, our levain boule (also known as sourdough bowl) is carrying our name to the closest party or cheese spread.
Peasant Loaf Baked in seasoned round pans, this country-style loaf emerges golden brown with a tender center and a crunchy millet crust. A magnificent addition to any table.
Golden Flax Semolina Incredibly tender on the inside with a slightly nutty sweetness from the golden flax seeds and honey.
Streusel Bread A delicious bread made with honey, cinnamon, and egg and covered with a buttery streusel topping. Perfect toasted with a bit of butter.
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Lunds and Byerly’s
what’s in store
ETHICAL BEAN COFFEES Ethical Bean Coffees are made from the world’s best fair trade, certified-organic beans. Artisan roasted in Vancouver, British Columbia, you’ll taste a cup that has clarity and vivid flavors. Varieties include lush (notes of fruit, smoke, and earth), classic (medium body), and sweet espresso (multi-dimensional, full-bodied).
Did you know? By scanning the QR code on each bag through their iPhone app, you can follow your coffee’s journey from farm to shelf, view farmer interviews, and locate the field where your coffee was grown.
LUNDS & BYERLYS ORGANIC GRANOLAS We’ve added three new organic varieties to our delicious collection of all-natural granolas: ancient grains—kamut, quinoa, amaranth and chia seeds, sweetened with pure agave nectar; berry coconut—made with no added sugars and 100 percent organic oats, raisins, coconut, and berries; and raisin vanilla—non-GMO corn and rice with low sodium.
Did you know? Our new organic granolas are USDA-certified organic. This gives you more choices to meet your health and wellness needs.
KITCHEN ACCOMPLICE BROTHS Think outside the broth box with new Kitchen Accomplice broth concentrates. These reduced-sodium broths are all natural, gluten free, and stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to six months because they store like a condiment. Each bottle makes 28 cups of broth. It’s the next generation of broth!
Tip: Simply add 2 teaspoons of Kitchen Accomplice Broth concentrate to 1 cup of hot water to make 1 cup of delicious broth. It’s that easy! Broth flavors: beef style, chicken, and veggie.
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Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store
MARIN FRENCH CHEESE PETITES Marin French Cheese Petites are the perfect addition to a cheese plate for holiday entertaining. These elegant triple crème cheeses are made with fresh cow’s milk and cream from California’s Marin County dairies. Each handcrafted wheel reflects characteristics of traditional cheese making and careful ripening techniques.
Did you know? Established in 1865, Marin French is the oldest, continuously operating cheese company in the United States.
LUNDS & BYERLYS SEA SALT ALMOND CARAMELS If you love our popular sea salt caramels, you can now enjoy them with almonds! With demand for sea salt caramel chocolates increasing, we knew adding a fresh almond crunch to this masterpiece would add even more texture and flavor. They’re simply irresistible!
Tip: Sea salt enhances the flavor of buttery caramel, and dark chocolate gives a perfect sweet balance to any confection. This winning combination, now paired with almonds, is sure to be a hit at any holiday party.
OUR ROYAL RIB ROAST The classic crown jewel of beef gives you the royal treatment this holiday season! We take our exclusive Double R Ranch premium choice beef and gently season it with select local spices. It’s aged in olive oil for 15 days, then cut to order in our stores by our skilled butchers. Inspired by some of the oldest recipes to date, this roast is an absolute throwback to the way prime rib used to be: cooked from scratch with no artificial preservatives or mystery solutions.
Tip: Step-by-step cooking instructions are included with each Royal Rib Roast. Three sizes are available and named appropriately: King (15-20 servings), Queen (8-12 servings), and Princess (4-6 servings). Each size comes to you raw, aged, seasoned, and completely oven-ready.
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Lunds and Byerly’s clip-and-keep guide
La Crema Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)
Characteristics: Lush flavors of cherry, plum, and pomegranate with hints of delicate tea leaf. Firm tannins round out the mouth.
Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Zinfandel (Sonoma County)
Characteristics: Mouthwatering flavors of black raspberry and black cherry with a hint of cedar spice.
Pair with: Turkey, lamb, salmon, duck, swordfish, tuna, or scallops.
Pair with: Turkey, duck, pasta, or pork spareribs.
Belle Glos Pinot Noir Blanc
Characteristics: Whole cluster fermentation, extreme sorting regimens, French oak, and exclusively Napa fruit—sounds expensive, but it only tastes that way. Crisp, clean, and perfect.
Characteristics: Made from choice Pinot Noir fruit, this salmon colored rosé features great softness and minerality. Its wonderful earthiness is the perfect foil for holiday appetizers and meals.
Pair with: Turkey, veal, crab, lobster, swordfish, tuna, scallops, or shrimp.
Pair with: Ham, duck, oysters, or raw clams.
Trefethen Dry Riesling
Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages
Characteristics: Intriguing jasmine, white peach, and ginger aromas with bright and zesty citrus flavors. A crisp, lingering finish. Pair with: Turkey, grilled shrimp, seared sea scallops, pork, or crab.
Fetzer Gewürztraminer (Mendocino County)
Characteristics: Aromas of rose petals and honeysuckle with the refreshing flavors of honeyed apricot and peach. Pair with: Turkey, pork roast, ham, scallops, crab, or salmon.
Characteristics: Brilliantly bright and fresh, with ripe strawberry flavors and zesty nuances of peppercorns. Gentle tannins with a succulent finish. Pair with: Turkey, ham, tuna, or swordfish.
Hanna Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley)
Characteristics: Fresh and quaffable with distinctive flavors of lime, grass, and a murmur of basil. Pair with: Crab, swordfish, salmon, scallops, tuna, or shrimp.
© LUND FOOD HOLDINGS, INC.
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Jewel of the Season Pomegranates add the perfect pop to breakfast, lunch, and dinner. BY AMIE VALPONE
omegranates have been known as a fruit of the winter since ancient times. As the story goes, the Greek goddess Persephone was bound to spend half the year in the underworld after Hades tricked her into eating the seeds of a pomegranate. During this time, her mother, Demeter— goddess of fertility—refuses to let anything grow, and so we have winter. Even though winter may seem like a barren season, it’s actually the best time to enjoy the juicy burst of the pomegranate’s scarlet seeds. Look for a plump, round pomegranate with minimal bruising for the best flavor. Pomegranate seeds are loaded with nutrients like fiber and Vitamin C. It’s easy to add these pretty seeds, known as arils, to everything from ice cream to salads and whole grains to cereal; they add the perfect pop of flavor to breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Here are three easy recipes to get more pom power in your life! How to Eat: Pomegranates may be different from most fruits you’ve eaten, but getting the most out of your pomegranates is actually super easy! Cut off the top of the fruit and slice the remaining sphere into six sections. Separate each section to reveal the juicy seeds. Use a spoon or your hands to remove the seeds from the skin into a bowl. Sometimes cutting the fruit into smaller sections will help you remove more of the seeds.
AFTERNOON POWER BOOST: Toast a slice of whole grain bread and smooth on a layer of your favorite nut butter, such as almond or peanut. Sprinkle on a handful of pomegranate seeds to make a simple snack that will give you a boost of fiber, protein, and antioxidants! Add a pinch of shredded coconut for a sweet topping.
PHOTO © AURELIO - FOTOLIA.COM
WARM WINTER SALAD: Pomegranates pair perfectly with warm winter vegetables. Coat chunks of butternut squash with a drizzle of olive oil and rosemary, and roast for 30 minutes at 400°F or until they’re soft and golden brown. Toss arugula, toasted walnuts, and pomegranate chunks in a red wine vinaigrette and top it off with warm butternut squash. COZY WHOLE GRAINS: Make a delicious whole grain salad with bursts of juicy pomegranate flavor. Cook a blend of wild and black rice and toss with pomegranate seeds, sautéed green beans, and pine nuts. Dress with finely chopped fresh thyme, olive oil, sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper for a flavorful dish that makes the perfect winter side. This is a great recipe that you can store in the fridge for a few days and enjoy for lunch or dinner. ■
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You don’t have to wait for a major holiday to have a get-together. In fact you’re more likely to welcome the guests you want when you don’t have to compete with three other parties on the same night. And, it doesn’t have to be a big party; simply inviting a few people over to pamper for an hour or so is a wonderful thing—even a midweek break to catch up with friends over a few delicious snacks and a killer cocktail. Or maybe a late Sunday afternoon with enough food to count as an early dinner, a couple of icy beers, and then send everyone home by 6:30p.m. to get ready for the week. Your friends will thank you very much!
the happiest hour These simple yet sumptuous dishes are destined to delight at your next soiree. BY SERENA BASS
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
Shrimp Toast with Homemade Plum Sauce MAKES 32 TRIANGLES
Like pigs in a blanket, this hors d’oeuvre is a bit retro but beloved, especially with the amazing homemade plum sauce. The sauce will keep refrigerated for many months, so don’t worry about making too much—it will be gone eventually. Plum Sauce 1 pound red or black plums, pitted and roughly chopped 1⁄3 cup packed dark brown sugar 3 medium cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped ½ cup soy sauce 2 3-inch strips orange zest 1⁄3 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar 3 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and chopped ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1⁄3 cup water
La Pera Cocktail MAKES 1 DRINK
Serve this festive drink in a martini glass or wine glass, which allows more room for Prosecco. One word of caution: If your party might become crowded and cheerful, steer clear of martini glasses as one elbow bump could send the drink sloshing all over! 2½ 1½ ½ 1
ounces premium vodka ounces pear nectar ounce St. Germaine to 2 ounces Prosecco
1. Pour first three ingredients into a cocktail shaker half full of ice and stir. Pour into a martini glass or stemmed wine glass. Top with Prosecco.
Shrimp Toast 1 pound fresh shrimp, shelled, deveined, and roughly chopped 1⁄3 cup packed pickled ginger ¼ cup chopped scallion, white with a little green 1 extra large egg 1 tablespoon dry sherry ½ teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup sesame seeds, plus more as needed 10 slices very thin white bread 1 tablespoon sesame oil ½ cup vegetable oil sprig mint 1. For the plum sauce: Combine all ingredients in a small, nonstick saucepan, cover, and bring to a simmer. Remove lid and simmer 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until only a little liquid remains. 2. Pour sauce into work bowl of a food processor and pulse until smooth with a few ginger lumps. 3. For the shrimp toast: Combine shrimp, ginger, scallion, egg, sherry, sugar, cornstarch, salt, and pepper in work bowl of a food processor and pulse to a chunky paste. Scrape into a medium bowl. 4. Pour sesame seeds into a wide, shallow bowl. Lay bread on a counter and spread 3 tablespoons shrimp mixture on each slice, mounding very slightly in middle and spreading to crust. Trim crust. 5. Flip bread shrimp side down onto sesame seeds. Gently press bread into seeds, pick up, tap to dislodge any excess seeds, and lay on counter, seed side up. Repeat with all slices. 6. Mix together oils and heat 1⁄8 inch oil in a nonstick pan to just shimmering. Carefully lay bread in pan, seed side down. Cook 2 minutes, until shrimp is opaque and seeds a little golden. Flip and fry 1 minute, until crisp, adding extra oil as needed. Wipe out pan and refresh oils as needed; loose sesame seeds will burn. 7. Cut toasts corner to corner into 4 triangles. Serve piled in a shallow bowl with mint sprig and accompanying plum sauce. Pairing An icy Riesling from New York or the Alsace region of France is just delicious with these toasts.
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SHRIMP TOAST WITH HOMEMADE PLUM SAUCE
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PARTY TIPS | Drinks If you’re making punch, don’t add ice to chill it as it’ll only water down the drink. Instead, keep it cold. I like to set a full pitcher in a pretty bucket with slushy ice. Pour the punch into a glass half full of ice cubes. If a punch ingredient is carbonated, combine everything else then add the sparkly stuff at the last moment. If children will be at the party, I like to make a non-alcoholic punch—something like apple cider, fresh lemon juice, and honey that also will work with a shot of gin, vodka, Scotch, or rum for the adults.
Roasted Tomatoes on Rosemary Bread with Sage Pesto MAKES 10 SERVINGS
This pretty hors d’oeuvre is wonderfully seasonal with the red tomato and the dot of green pesto. Roasting the tomatoes brings out their delicious flavor, even in colder months. The sage pesto can also lend a punch to mashed potatoes, pumpkin soup, or egg noodles. Roasted Tomatoes on Rosemary Bread 6 plum tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices and ends discarded 2 tablespoons olive oil ¾ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 loaf rosemary bread or French baguette, unsliced Sage Pesto ½ cup chopped sage leaves ½ cup chopped parsley leaves 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1⁄3 cup pine nuts ½ teaspoon salt 1⁄3 cup olive oil ¼ cup grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1. For the roasted tomatoes: Position rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Place tomatoes in a medium bowl, drizzle on oil, and sprinkle on salt and pepper. Gently toss to mix then arrange on baking sheet. 3. Roast 20 to 25 minutes, until starting to caramelize at edges. Remove from oven and set aside to cool. 4. Meanwhile, prepare the pesto: In a food processor, blend together sage, parsley, garlic, pine nuts, and salt to a crumbly paste. 5. With motor running, pour in oil. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in Parmesan and butter. Store refrigerated in a covered container with plastic wrap pressed down on surface of pesto. It will keep for two days but is better used within six hours. 6. For the rosemary bread: Trim crust from bread. Cut into ¼-inch slices then into 1¼-inch squares. (If using baguette, cut ¼-inch slices straight across— not diagonally.) Set a tomato on each square of rosemary bread or slice of baguette and top with ¼ teaspoon pesto. Pairing A Malbec or Merlot works well with this hors d’oeuvre.
Bacon-Wrapped Roasted Brussels Sprouts Skewers with a Splash of Maple MAKES 10 SERVINGS
These tasty appetizers are easy to make and hold well for 12 hours, requiring only a last-minute roasting to release all their wonderful, earthy flavors. Use 30 6-inch bamboo skewers or toothpicks. 15 firm Brussels sprouts, similarly sized salt 15 slices bacon
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup freshly ground black pepper
1. Cut and discard Brussels sprout ends and remove outer layer. Cut a shallow “x” on stem. 2. Bring a pot of salted water to a simmer. Add Brussels sprouts and cook 7 minutes, until al dente (a small, sharp knife inserted should meet some resistance). Drain and set aside. 3. Meanwhile, fry bacon 2 to 3 minutes, until starting to brown but still very pliable. Cook in batches if necessary. Remove from pan, cut each slice in half across width, and set aside. Remove and reserve all but 2 tablespoons fat from pan. 4. Vertically halve Brussels sprouts. Heat fat to smoking. In 2 or 3 batches, sauté Brussels sprouts, cut side down, 1 minute, until slightly brown at edges, adding more fat as needed. 5. Wrap each Brussels sprouts half in a piece of bacon and secure with a skewer. (The skewers can be made up to this point up to 12 hours before serving.) 6. Preheat oven to 375°F. Arrange skewers on baking sheet and bake 6 to 8 minutes, until bacon is crisp. If Brussels sprouts are cold from refrigeration, they’ll take an extra minute or so. 7. Remove from oven. Dribble a little maple syrup over each skewer and grind on some black pepper before serving. Pairing If you can find it, Boddingtons Pub Ale pairs perfectly. Otherwise, any beer that’s medium amber color and not bitter will work nicely.
Spiced and Caramelized Nuts MAKES 10 SERVINGS
These nuts are a walk on the wild side with their heady mix of sweet and salty, spicy and crunchy. If you want to make this recipe in greater volume, make it twice; the nuts will be too tricky to maneuver if you try to double the recipe. Use a stainless-steel pan so you can check the color of the caramel, which always demands attention but is a stepping-stone to something irresistible. ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar 1½ teaspoons salt 1½ teaspoons ground cumin (or freshly ground cinnamon, for dessert decoration)
1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups whole, peeled almonds
1. In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon sugar, salt, cumin, and hot pepper flakes. (Set aside.) 2. In a large, shallow sauté pan, heat oil. Add almonds and remaining ½ cup sugar. Cook until sugar forms a dark, golden caramel. 3. Quickly dribble almonds onto a baking sheet in a random fashion. Distribute in thin caramel and avoid letting nuts pile up. 4. Using two forks, quickly separate almonds. This is a little sticky but persevere; if you leave them too long, the nuts will just all glom together. 5. When caramel has hardened, toss almonds with coating. Nuts will keep at least 1 week stored in an airtight container at room temperature. Pairing A Moscow Mule, made with Tito’s vodka and a powerful Jamaican ginger beer, is fantastic with these nuts. (Combine 2 ounces vodka, 5 ounces ginger beer, and the juice of half a lime.)
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PARTY TIPS | Food If you’re serving food on skewers, place on the tray a little glass or espresso cup stuffed with some sturdy greenery, such as rosemary or boxwood. This will help the used skewers stay put. Place a couple of these containers in random spots on tables so if someone’s stuck with a skewer, they can get rid of it. Use straight-sided bowls for condiments so guests can get some dip without pushing it over the rim of the bowl. If someone is helping pass the food, ensure they know what’s in it. Nuts, dairy, garlic, and hot spices can cause problems for certain people. If you’re offering six hors d’oeuvres, I suggest one chicken, one other meat, one fish or seafood, and three vegetarian.
BACON-WRAPPED ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS SKEWERS AND SPICED AND CARAMELIZED NUTS
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Moroccan Meatballs with Pine Nuts, Currants, Cumin, and Parsley MAKES 32 COCKTAIL-SIZE MEATBALLS
Don’t be alarmed by the list of ingredients—most are already in your cupboard. Bear in mind that lamb absorbs the seasonings, so you do need to go heavy on the salt, pepper, lemon zest, and garlic. It will all balance perfectly in the end. Take the time to mince the lemon zest; it is lovely to find tiny chunks in the meatballs. And do use currants, as raisins and yellow raisins are too big and much sweeter. If the meat is brought to room temperature before mixing, it will be much easier to handle. Serve with Cucumber Yogurt Dip (recipe at right). 1 2 1 ½ 1⁄3 1⁄3 2 1⁄3 2 2½ 1 1 1 ¾ 1 ½ ½
cup finely diced onion tablespoons olive oil pound ground lamb pound ground beef cup pine nuts cup currants lemons, skin finely peeled then zest minced cup flat-leaf parsley, minced tablespoons crushed garlic teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon ground cumin teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon hot pepper flakes whole egg cup panko bread crumbs cup heavy cream
Cucumber Yogurt Dip MAKES 2 CUPS
Who would have thought plain yogurt could carry such a burst of flavor? The black pepper is an important ingredient; if you don’t have a pepper grinder, I encourage you to get one. Ground pepper does not work in this recipe, as it is often too fine and too strong. (The more finely ground the pepper, the hotter it will be.) 1 1 1⁄3 1 3 ½
quart (4 cups) fat-free plain yogurt teaspoon salt, or more to taste seedless English cucumber, unpeeled tablespoon fresh lemon juice tablespoons fresh mint leaves, minced teaspoon cardamom seeds (not pods), ground in a spice grinder pinch hot pepper flakes ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Sauté onion with 1 tablespoon oil and ½ teaspoon salt 10 minutes, until soft. 2. Crumble meat into a large bowl. Add remaining ingredients and gently but thoroughly mix. 3. Scoop a rounded tablespoon of meat mixture, compress slightly with fingers, and gently form into a ball. Repeat with remaining meatball mixture. (The meatballs can be made up to this point, frozen on a tray, and stored in a sealable plastic bag in the freezer. Bring to room temperature before cooking.) 4. Heat remaining tablespoon oil in a nonstick pan and fry meatballs in batches over medium heat 6 minutes for medium temperature. Turn using a fork and teaspoon. 5. Place a paper towel in a shallow bowl. Roll cooked meatballs in bowl to mop up fat then tip onto a cooling rack. 6. Preheat oven to 300°F. Reheat meatballs to warm (not hot) on a baking sheet 5 to 7 minutes before serving.
1. Place a paper towel in a strainer set over a bowl. Pour in yogurt. Stir in ½ teaspoon salt. Drain 2 hours and discard collected liquid. Flip yogurt into bowl and remove paper towel. 2. In a separate bowl, coarsely grate cucumber. Squeeze lightly over sink to remove excess liquid and add to yogurt along with remaining ½ teaspoon salt and other ingredients. Refrigerate up to 24 hours and stir before serving. ■
PARTY TIPS | Timing Choose a timeframe for your party. From 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., you can provide a few delicious snacks. The closer you get to 8 p.m., people will want to make your snacks their dinner—which is fine if you have enough appetizers and/or more substantial food. For a later party, put out small plates so guests can help themselves to several things at once.
Pairing A strong, zesty California Sauvignon Blanc complements all the heady flavors of this recipe.
SHRIMP TOAST W. PLUM SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 109 (62 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 21mg; SODIUM 389mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g
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ROASTED TOMATOES ON ROSEMARY BREAD W. PESTO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 197 (142 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 4g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 414mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g
BACON-WRAPPED ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS SKEWERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 115 (70 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 3g); CHOL 16mg; SODIUM 288mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 5g
SPICED & CARAMELIZED NUTS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 240 (152 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 361mg; CARB 17g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 6g
MOROCCAN MEATBALLS W. CUCUMBER YOGURT DIP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 99 (52 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 2g); CHOL 24mg; SODIUM 297mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 6g
MOROCCAN MEATBALLS WITH PINE NUTS, CURRANTS, CUMIN, AND PARSLEY AND CUCUMBER YOGURT DIP
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Turkey BY MOLLY STEVENS
This Thanksgiving standout shines all season long.
If we were to play a culinary word-association game and I said “roast turkey,” most folks would respond with “Thanksgiving dinner.” As much as I relish all the traditions and trimmings of the big day, turkey is also one of my go-to menu items throughout the entire holiday season. Even the pickiest eaters appreciate its lean, mild taste, and I love the way it adapts to a range of seasonings and preparations. Because a variety of fresh turkey parts are available from Thanksgiving through the New Year, creating a festive feast doesn’t need to involve an entire bird. In the recipes that follow, you’ll find some of my favorite turkey dishes fit for any holiday gathering, from small to large, with flavors ranging from classic to spicy.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
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SPICE-RUBBED ROAST TURKEY (RECIPE PAGE 33)
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Turkey Roulade with Mushroom-Pancetta Stuffing MAKES 6 SERVINGS
A filling of sautéed mushrooms, leeks, and pancetta elevates a simple boneless turkey breast into a sumptuous roast. You can use any fresh mushrooms here, but a mix of cremini, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms is especially tasty. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1⁄2 cup finely chopped leek, white part only kosher salt freshly ground black pepper 2 ounces diced pancetta 8 ounces fresh mushrooms, finely chopped 1⁄2 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 1 boneless skinless split turkey breast (about 2½ pounds) 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 325°F. 2. In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add leek and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes, until soft. 3. Add pancetta and mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook 3 minutes, until mushrooms release moisture. Increase heat to medium-high and continue to cook, stirring frequently, 2 to 3 minutes, until mushrooms begin to brown. Stir in thyme and garlic during final minute of cooking. Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl to cool. Once cooled, stir in parsley and Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. 4. Arrange turkey breast on a cutting board and make a horizontal cut halfway up along length of one of longer sides. (The goal is to cut breast almost in half so it can open up like a book.) Continue slicing, folding back top half of breast, until blade reaches 1⁄2 inch from opposite edge. Fold open butterflied breast and lay a piece of plastic wrap over top. With a meat pounder or rolling pin, give breast a few firm smacks to even out, taking care not to pound holes into thinner spots. Remove plastic and season lightly with salt and pepper. 5. Spread stuffing evenly over turkey breast surface. Starting at either edge where breast is butterflied open, roll, jellyroll style, snugly but without squeezing out filling. Secure roulade with kitchen twine in 3 places around its circumference then tie a longer loop around length to hold ends in place. 6. In an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil and remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Pat dry roulade surface and season with salt and pepper.
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Place in skillet, seam side up, and cook about 10 minutes, turning with tongs every 3 to 4 minutes, until nicely browned on top 3 sides. 7. Flip roulade seam side down and transfer skillet to oven. Roast 75 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part registers 165°F. Transfer to a carving board and let rest at least 15 minutes before removing strings, carving into 1⁄2-inch-thick rounds, and serving. Cook’s Notes You can also make individual roulades using turkey cutlets. Look for 6-ounce cutlets at least 1 inch thick; you’ll need 2½ pounds total. Make the filling as directed. Butterfly each individual cutlet and pound out as directed. Divide the filling evenly among the 6 cutlets and roll each, jellyroll style. Brown and roast 35 to 40 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes before removing strings. Serve whole or slice and serve.
WHAT TO DO WITH LEFTOVER TURKEY Enchiladas: Combine shredded turkey with salsa verde to fill corn tortillas. Arrange in a casserole dish, top with more salsa and shredded Monterey Jack cheese and bake until heated through. Barbecue sliders: Heat shredded turkey with your favorite barbecue sauce. Pile onto slider rolls and top with coleslaw. Hash: Fry a few slices bacon in a castiron skillet and set aside. Sauté an onion in the rendered bacon fat and add diced, cooked potato (or other root vegetables) and diced turkey. Cook until beginning to brown. Drizzle in a spoonful heavy cream and continue cooking until crispy. Crumble bacon and add to pan. Season hash with plenty of black pepper. Turkey and wild rice bowl: Sauté diced leek in butter until tender. Stir in cooked wild rice and cooked diced turkey. Cook until heated through. Add toasted pecans and dried cranberries and season to taste.
TURKEY ROULADE WITH MUSHROOM-PANCETTA STUFFING
SPICE-RUBBED ROAST TURKEY
Spice-Rubbed Roast Turkey
MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS
If I’m serving more than 12 people can I buy a bigger bird? Bigger turkeys are problematic because they’re difficult to cook evenly (the breast meat tends to dry out before the leg meat is done) and they are not as naturally tender as smaller turkeys. If you have a larger crowd, consider roasting two smaller birds or roast an additional breast (see recipe page 37).
Not so many years ago, savvy cooks learned to brine the holiday turkey to ensure a flavorful, juicy bird. While this went a long way toward banishing bland, dry turkey, it also created a lot of hassle. Thankfully, we’ve learned that we can throw out the brine water and get even better results. Instead of sloshing around in all that water, the turkey gets seasoned inside and out with salt and other seasonings a day or two before cooking. This technique, commonly referred to as a dry brine, results in tender, juicy turkey with lovely golden skin. 1 2 2 2 1⁄2 2
13- to 14-pound fresh turkey tablespoons coriander seed teaspoons fennel seed teaspoons black peppercorns teaspoon cumin seed tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon sweet paprika 4½ cups low-sodium turkey or chicken broth 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
1. 1 to 2 days before roasting turkey, remove giblets from cavity. Arrange turkey, breast side up, on a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet and set aside. 2. In a small skillet over medium heat, combine coriander, fennel, peppercorns, and cumin. Toast spices, shaking pan frequently to prevent burning, 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and beginning to darken. Transfer to a spice grinder (or mortar). Cool 1 to 2 minutes before grinding to a coarse powder. Pour into a small bowl and stir in salt and paprika. 3. Using paper towels, pat dry turkey (including cavity). Sprinkle some spice mix into cavity and spread remaining mix over entire surface of turkey, turning to season back, thighs, breasts, and even tips of drumsticks and wings. Reapply any fallen seasoning to turkey or leave in pan. 4. Slide turkey into refrigerator, leaving uncovered if possible to help dry out skin, which allows it to turn crispy when roasted. If needed, loosely cover with plastic wrap. Let sit 24 to 48 hours. 5. Remove turkey from refrigerator 2 hours before roasting. Place rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 450°F. 6. Transfer turkey, breast side up, to a sturdy roasting pan outfitted with a roasting rack. Pour 1½ cups broth into pan (but not over top of turkey). Place in oven and immediately reduce temperature to 350°F. Baste every 45 minutes. After 1½ hours, rotate pan 180 degrees. 7. Continue roasting 2½ to 3 hours. Check for doneness by testing that internal temperature of thigh has reached 170°F and that juices run mostly clear when thigh is pierced with a sharp knife. If toward end of cooking time breast or drumsticks are getting too dark, cover them loosely with foil. 8. Remove turkey from oven and transfer to a carving board, preferably one with a trough to catch any juices. Tent very loosely with foil and let rest 30 to 40 minutes before carving. 9. Pour all but a few tablespoons liquid from pan into a glass measuring cup and set aside. Place pan over 1 or 2 burners set to medium-high and heat 1 to 2 minutes, until drippings begin to sizzle. Pan should be almost dry with plenty of tasty drippings before proceeding. 10. Reduce heat to low and add butter, stirring until melted. As soon as it melts, whisk in flour. Whisk constantly, incorporating drippings as you go, until butter and flour are combined. After 1 minute, slowly add remaining 3 cups broth, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Bring to a gentle simmer, whisking occasionally, and simmer 6 to 10 minutes to thicken and remove any floury taste. 11. Spoon off and discard fat on surface of reserved liquid and taste. If not overly salty, add some or all to gravy. If very salty, use a small amount to season gravy. Season gravy with salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm over a very low burner, being careful that the gravy doesn’t simmer too long and become too thick. 12. Carve turkey and serve with gravy spooned over top.
Do I need to rinse off the salt and spices before roasting? No. The magic of a dry brine is that the salt permeates the turkey skin and makes its way into the interior of the meat so that the resulting turkey is moist and perfectly seasoned. It won’t taste too salty as long as you use the kosher salt amount in this recipe. What about stuffing the turkey? Stuffing a turkey slows down the cooking and makes it nearly impossible to get the inside done by the time the outside is done—a stuffed bird often translates to overcooked breast meat. The best solution is to bake the stuffing separately. How long to roast? For an unstuffed turkey, use the calculation of 13 minutes per pound as a rough estimate of roasting time. Do I have to let the turkey rest? Carving into the turkey before letting it rest for at least 30 minutes will ruin all your hard work in preseasoning and roasting to the proper temperature. The rest period allows the proteins to firm up and the juices to redistribute so that the turkey remains moist once carved. The turkey will cool down some, but it won’t be anywhere near cold. Also, this gives you time (and oven space) to finish up all those hot side dishes and the gravy.
winter 2014 real food 33
Turkey Thighs with Dried Fruit and Sausage Stuffing MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Turkey thighs can be the richest, most succulent part of the bird, but they don’t often get the attention they deserve. Here’s a way to give turkey thighs their due: remove the bone and fill each with an aromatic stuffing chock-full of sweet-tart dried apricots, dried cherries, and savory sausage. 1⁄2 1⁄3 1 1½ 6 1⁄3 1⁄3
1½ 1⁄2 1⁄3 4
cup dried apricots, finely chopped cup dried tart cherries, finely chopped cup dry vermouth, off-dry white wine, or apple juice teaspoons extra virgin olive oil ounces fresh sweet Italian sausage, casing removed cup finely chopped shallots cup celery, only inner stalks including leaves finely chopped kosher salt freshly ground black pepper teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped teaspoon freshly grated orange zest cup fresh bread crumbs 12- to 14-ounce skin-on turkey thighs, boned and butterflied
1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. 2. Combine apricots, cherries, and vermouth in a small saucepan over medium heat. Gently simmer 3 to 5 minutes, until fruit absorbs most of liquid. Set aside. 3. In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Crumble sausage into pan and cook, stirring a few times, 5 minutes, until browned and just cooked through. Using a slotted spoon, remove to a bowl. Add shallots and celery to rendered fat in pan. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and stir in rosemary. Sauté 2 minutes, until tender. Add fruit and any liquid remaining in saucepan and simmer 1 minute, until nearly dry. Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl to cool. 4. Chop sausage into a fine mince and add to fruit mixture. Stir in orange zest and bread crumbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 5. Arrange turkey thighs, skin side down, on a work surface. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and divide stuffing evenly among thighs. Smooth stuffing into an even layer and roll each thigh around stuffing into a cylindrical shape. Secure each roll with 2 to 3 loops kitchen twine around circumference and a longer loop around length to hold ends in place. (Recipe can be made to this point up to 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate until ready to roast. Let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before roasting.) 6. Brush each roll with oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Arrange on a heavyduty baking sheet or other shallow baking dish, leaving at least 2 inches between each roll. Roast 1 hour, brushing tops halfway through cooking time with pan juices, until rolls are nicely browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into center registers 175°F. (The dark meat of turkey thighs tastes better when roasted to a slightly higher temperature than lighter breast meat.) 7. Transfer to a carving board to rest 10 minutes. To serve, snip strings and carve into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Spoon some pan drippings over top and serve. Cook’s Notes Each turkey thigh has only one bone, making them easy to bone and butterfly. Arrange the thigh, skin side down, on a cutting board and locate the bone that runs the length of the thigh (there is typically a thin line of fat that runs just above the bone). Using the tip of a thin-bladed boning knife or a utility knife, cut along one side of the bone, staying as close to the bone as possible and cutting away the meat in short, swiping motions. Once meat is scraped away from one side of the bone, turn the thigh 180 degrees and scrape the meat away from the length of the other side of the bone. Insert the knife tip right under the bone and slice along the length to release the entire bone. After removing the bone, feel around for any bits of cartilage and cut away. Make a horizontal slash into the thickest part of the thigh and fold it open to make more room for the stuffing. Save the bones for making broth.
HERB-ROASTED TURKEY BREAST
Herb-Roasted Turkey Breast with Creamed Gravy MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
A bone-in turkey breast is a great way to enjoy the flavors of Thanksgiving without having to roast an entire bird. The key to making this special is to do a little advance work: making a roasted turkey broth 1 to 2 days ahead to season the turkey. Broth 2 pounds turkey wings, necks, and/or bones, chopped into 2-inch pieces 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped 1 carrot, coarsely chopped 1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped 1 bay leaf Turkey Breast 1 6- to 7-pound whole bone-in skin-on turkey breast 1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh sage, chopped 2 teaspoons fresh marjoram, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 teaspoon celery seed 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2½ tablespoons unsalted butter 3½ tablespoons all-purpose flour 1⁄4 cup dry white wine or water 2 tablespoons heavy cream 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped squeeze fresh lemon juice (optional)
1. 1 to 2 days before roasting turkey, make broth and season turkey. 2. For the broth: Heat oven to 450°F. Arrange turkey parts on a heavy-duty baking sheet or shallow baking dish. Roast 35 minutes, turning the pan 180 degrees once after 20 minutes, until nicely browned. 3. Transfer bones to a large saucepan. Immediately pour 1½ cups water onto sheet and stir and scrape with a wooden spoon to dissolve drippings. If stubborn, place pan over medium heat to bring liquid to a simmer, scraping as water heats. Pour liquid into saucepan.
TURKEY ROULADE W. MUSHROOMPANCETTA STUFFING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 376 (162 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 8g); CHOL 153mg; SODIUM 197mg; CARB 4g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 47g
SPICE-RUBBED ROAST TURKEY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 368 (126 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 5g); CHOL 153mg; SODIUM 1128mg; CARB 5g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 53g
4. Add onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, and 41⁄2 or 5 more cups of cold water, or enough to just cover. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, partially cover, and reduce heat to barely simmer. Simmer 2 hours, until broth has a nice turkey flavor. If at any point liquid drops more than ½ inch below surface of bones, add just enough cool water to barely cover, about 1⁄2 cup at a time. 5. Strain broth through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside to cool. When cooled, cover and refrigerate until ready to make gravy. 6. For the turkey: In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon thyme, sage, marjoram, garlic, salt, pepper, celery seed, nutmeg, and oil to make a coarse paste. With your fingers, gently loosen skin from meat on top of breast to smear half of paste under skin, taking care not to remove skin entirely. Smooth skin back in place and smear remaining paste over skin and on bone side of turkey breast. Arrange in a baking dish, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate at least 8 hours and up to 2 days. 7. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 450°F. Set turkey, skin side up, in a small roasting pan or heavy-duty skillet (turkey will brown more evenly if pan sides are no more than 2 inches high). Let sit at room temperature while oven heats. Scrape thin layer fat from broth surface and pour 1 cup into pan. 8. Place in oven and immediately reduce temperature to 300°F. Roast 75 to 105 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of breast registers 165°F. 9. Meanwhile, pour remaining broth into a saucepan and simmer 15 to 20 minutes to concentrate flavor and reduce to 2½ cups. Set aside. 10. Remove turkey from oven, transfer to a carving board, and tent with foil to rest at least 15 minutes. 11. Place pan over a burner set to medium-high heat. Add wine and bring to a boil, using a wooden spoon to dislodge and dissolve any cooked-on bits. Simmer until liquid just barely covers bottom of pan and set aside. 12. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter until bubbly. Add flour, whisking constantly, to create a smooth paste. Whisk in liquid and any drippings from pan. Slowly add broth, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Bring to a gentle simmer, whisking occasionally, and simmer 6 to 10 minutes to thicken and remove any floury taste. Whisk in cream, remaining ½ teaspoon thyme, and parsley. Return to a simmer for 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If gravy needs a little zing, add squeeze of lemon. 13. Carve turkey and serve with gravy spooned over top. ■
TURKEY THIGHS W. DRIED FRUIT & SAUSAGE STUFFING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 301 (128 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 4g); CHOL 83mg; SODIUM 247mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 29g
HERB-ROASTED TURKEY BREAST W. CREAMED GRAVY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 632 (274 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 10g); CHOL 220mg; SODIUM 898mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 79g
winter 2014 real food 37
glorious ginger BY NINA SIMONDS
Known for its healing properties, this knobby rhizome is taking center stage in the kitchen. When I first started writing about classic Chinese cuisine in the early 1980s, ginger was considered an exotic seasoning and could be purchased only in specialty stores. Few had even seen this knobby, aromatic rhizome in its fresh form and only knew of it as the ground, dried seasoning used to flavor desserts and other sweet confections. Today that is no longer the case. American chefs and home cooks have embraced ginger for its vibrant flavor, adding it to sweet and savory dishes not only for its pungent, warming qualities but also its ability to elevate dishes from mundane to exceptional. Just as notably, its appeal has broadened since medical and scientific research has confirmed gingerâ€™s health-giving properties. By just consuming any of these dishes on a regular basis and including ginger as a regular seasoning in your diet, you are adding a powerful anti-inflammatory and potent antioxidant. In its traditional use, fresh ginger is excellent in Asian stir-fries, meat and seafood marinades, curries, dressings, and dipping sauces. Crystallized ginger works magic when added to fruit salads, cookies, cakes, or tarts. As youâ€™ll see in the recipes that follow, ginger is particularly well suited to enliven all types of traditional holiday fare, from vegetables, whole-grain side dishes, and hearty main courses to easily prepared but memorable desserts. PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
GINGERY WILD RICE PILAF WITH DRIED APRICOTS AND PECANS
Gingery Wild Rice Pilaf with Dried Apricots and Pecans MAKES 6 SERVINGS
For festive occasions, especially around the holidays, nutty wild rice is an excellent side dish. I like to complement its earthy flavor with dried fruit—apricots, raisins, or cranberries—and buttery, toasted pecans. Soaking the wild rice before cooking softens the grains and ensures that even standard wild rice cooks beautifully in just 45 minutes. 1 1 1 1 3½ 1 3 1 ½ ¾ ¼
cup long-grain wild rice tablespoon virgin olive oil tablespoon unsalted butter medium onion, peeled and finely chopped tablespoons fresh ginger, minced tablespoon orange zest cups low-sodium chicken broth cup whole pecans cup dried apricots, coarsely chopped teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1. Rinse rice in a large sieve under cold water. Drain and place in a bowl with hot water to cover 15 to 20 minutes. 2. Heat oil and butter in a 5-quart casserole or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Add onion, ginger, and orange zest, and sauté 20 seconds, until fragrant. Cover, reduce to medium-low heat and cook 4 to 5 minutes, until onion is soft and slightly transparent. Add rice and cook 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. 3. Add broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, 45 minutes, until rice is tender. Remove from heat. 4. Meanwhile, toast pecans in a small, nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown and fragrant. Let cool slightly and chop coarsely. 5. Add pecans, apricots, salt, and pepper, and stir gently to mix. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve warm or at room temperature.
Health-Giving Properties of Ginger While we know fresh ginger as a root, it is actually a knobby rhizome or creeping underground stem of the Zingiber officinale plant, whose well-known cousins include turmeric, cardamom, and galangal. Herbal authorities suggest that it may have been one of the first plants cultivated by mankind thousands of years ago in Southeast Asia. From the earliest times, ginger was reputed to have therapeutic properties. While its main calling was as a digestive aid, it was also recommended for reducing pain and inflammation caused by arthritis when applied topically. Indian Ayurvedic healers prescribed ginger to treat gout and coughs, while traditional Chinese doctors regularly recommend it for colds, stomachaches, diarrhea, and nausea. Today, medical and scientific research has validated some of these traditional beliefs. • Researchers have identified the volatile oils gingerol and shogaol as the main active components in ginger responsible for its flavor, odor, and healing properties. Gingerols have powerful anti-inflammatory properties, which may explain why the rhizome can be helpful in alleviating pain caused by osteoarthritis and other joint issues. • Ginger is justifiably credited as an excellent aid in soothing many different types of gastrointestinal issues. In a number of controlled clinical studies, dried ginger supplements proved effective in preventing nausea and some vomiting due to motion sickness, pregnancy, and chemotherapy. Ginger doesn’t work for everyone, but in many experiments it was as or more effective than many commonly used motion-sickness medications. An added bonus is that it doesn’t cause any of the negative side effects of the drugs, such as drowsiness, dizziness, and visual impairment. • Preliminary studies suggest that ginger may help prevent heart disease by lowering cholesterol and preventing blood clots, which can lead to heart attack or stroke. Note: Most clinical studies investigating ginger’s effects to reduce nausea, heart disease, etc. used a dosage of 1,000mg per day of powdered dried ginger taken as capsules. Please consult your doctor if you have any health concerns or questions regarding adding ginger to your diet.
winter 2014 real food 41
Glazed Green Beans MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Every family has its ritual holiday meals, and in our house, along with the dressing and cranberry sauce, crisp-tender green beans were always a favorite. They were simply prepared, a welcome contrast to the other labor-intensive dishes. Many years later, I revised the recipe slightly, adding some minced ginger, soy sauce, and scallions to heighten the flavor and imparting a unique and appealing Asian accent. 1½ 3½ 1½ 1½ 3 6
pounds green beans, rinsed and drained tablespoons rice wine or sake tablespoons sugar tablespoons virgin olive oil or canola oil tablespoons fresh ginger, minced scallions, ends trimmed, white and green parts separated, and finely chopped
1. Cut or snap off green bean ends. If beans are very long, cut on diagonal into 3-inch pieces. In a bowl, combine rice wine, sugar, and ½ cup water until sugar is almost completely dissolved. 2. Heat oil in a heavy, deep sauté pan or wok with a lid until very hot. Add ginger and scallion white parts and sauté over high heat 10 to 15 seconds, until fragrant. Add scallion green parts and stir-fry to mix. Add beans and stir-fry 1 minute. Add sauce, toss lightly to mix, and heat until sauce is boiling. 3. Cover and reduce heat to medium. Cook 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until beans are tender. Uncover, increase heat to high, and continue cooking, stirring constantly, 3 to 4 minutes, until sauce has thickened and reduced to a glaze. Transfer to a bowl or platter and serve hot or at room temperature.
Storage Tip: Ginger can be stored unpeeled in the refrigerator for two weeks. The longer you store it, the stronger the flavor and the drier and more fibrous it becomes (making it difficult to peel and chop). Personally, I don’t recommend freezing it because it decomposes.
42 real food winter 2014
Sumptuous Ginger and Balsamic Glazed Short Ribs MAKES 6 SERVINGS
There are few more nurturing dishes when the weather turns colder than a hearty pot of succulently tender beef short ribs. Redolent with the seasonings of ginger, garlic, red wine, and a touch of sweetness from red onions, this dish is sure to satisfy and warm the body on even the most frigid winter day. 3 tablespoons virgin olive oil or canola oil 4 to 5 pounds bone-in beef short ribs, trimmed of excess fat 3½ cups low-sodium chicken broth 1½ cups full-bodied red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon ½ cup balsamic vinegar ¼ cup soy sauce 3 tablespoons packed light brown sugar 3 medium red onions, peeled and cut into thin, julienne strips 5 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced 3 tablespoons minced garlic 1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. 2. Heat oil in a large 6-quart casserole or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Working in batches, sear ribs 5 minutes per side, until golden brown. 3. To make braising mixture, combine broth, wine, vinegar, soy sauce, and sugar in a bowl until sugar is almost completely dissolved. 4. Drain all but 1½ tablespoons oil from pot and reheat until very hot. Add onions, ginger, and garlic, and sauté over medium-high heat 15 seconds, until fragrant. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are transparent. Add braising mixture and ribs, arranging so they are mainly covered with liquid. Cover and bring to a boil. 5. Bake 2 hours, until meat is very tender and falling from bone. Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes and, using tongs, remove ribs and meat from sauce and set on a platter. Skim fat from sauce and discard. (If time permits, pour sauce into a bowl, refrigerate until fat congeals, and discard fat.) Return ribs to sauce, cover, and reheat if necessary. Serve hot.
SUMPTUOUS GINGER AND BALSAMIC GLAZED SHORT RIBS AND GLAZED GREEN BEANS
APPLE GINGER UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
Apple Ginger Upside-Down Cake MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS
The combination of candied ginger mixed with cinnamon, brown sugar, and butter creates an incredibly sumptuous topping for this surprisingly easy upside-down cake, prepared in a standard 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Tart apples, such as Granny Smith, that hold their shape work beautifully, but you can vary the fruit depending on what is in season. Topping 1 lemon, halved 2 large Granny Smith apples, cored and peeled 3 tablespoons candied ginger, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ cup packed light brown sugar 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces Cake 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces ¾ cup sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla extract ¾ cup buttermilk, well shaken
1. Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. 2. For the topping: Rub lemon over apple surfaces. Cut apples in half lengthwise then, with cut side down, cut each half into thirds. Place in a bowl and squeeze over remaining lemon juice, tossing lightly to prevent browning. 3. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, chop ginger, cinnamon, and sugar. First pulse to mix ingredients then, with machine running, chop finely and evenly with no lumps. 4. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, distribute butter evenly and heat over medium heat until melted and foam subsides. Brush pan side generously with butter. 5. Reduce heat to low and sprinkle sugar topping evenly over butter. Cook, without stirring, over medium-low heat 3 minutes, moving pan slightly to ensure even cooking. Remove from heat and arrange apples tightly in a circle along pan edge then fill in center. 6. For the cake: Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a large bowl. In a separate large bowl, beat together butter and sugar 1 to 2 minutes, until pale and fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time, and vanilla until smoothly blended and increased in volume. Add flour mixture and buttermilk, alternately in 3 batches, starting and ending with flour, gently mixing until just incorporated. 7. Gently pour batter over topping and distribute evenly using a spatula, taking care not to disturb fruit. Bake 35 minutes, until golden brown and springy to the touch and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. 8. Cool 5 minutes in skillet. Run a sharp knife carefully around skillet edge and, wearing oven mitts, invert a large plate over skillet. Keeping plate and skillet firmly pressed together, invert cake onto plate. Carefully lift off skillet and, if necessary, spoon any topping left in pan evenly over cake. Let cool and serve warm or at room temperature. The cake will keep up to one week wrapped in plastic wrap or in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days. ■
GINGERY WILD RICE PILAF W. DRIED APRICOTS & PECANS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 309 (146 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 3g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 336mg; CARB 35g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 9g
SUMPTUOUS GINGER & BALSAMIC GLAZED SHORT RIBS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 394 (185 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 7g); CHOL 78mg; SODIUM 699mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 26g
GLAZED GREEN BEANS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 88 (33 from fat); FAT 4g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 10mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 2g
Try Fresh Ginger Tea: Steep one or two 1⁄2-inch slices (one 1⁄2-inch slice equals two-thirds ounce) of fresh ginger in a cup of hot water. Add lemon and honey, if desired.
APPLE GINGER UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 387 (159 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 11g); CHOL 79mg; SODIUM 271mg; CARB 54g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g
winter 2014 real food 45
a little dessert BY FIONA PEARCE
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS 46 real food winter 2014
Bite-size sweets with big appeal There’s always room for “just a bite” of dessert. And, especially after a holiday feast, a little something sweet is the perfect size—it also makes it easy to enjoy “just a bite” of a few different treats. From fruity and light to chocolaty decadence, this roundup of tiny treats has something for most everyone and can work equally well for a dessert buffet party or an always-welcome homemade gift. RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM TREAT PETITES © 2014 BY STERLING EPICURE, AN IMPRINT OF STERLING PUBLISHING CO.
Mini Dacquoise Towers MAKES 10
With crunchy disks of almond and hazelnut meringue alternating with a gooey mocha mousse that is lightly set with gelatin, these minute dacquoises can really rock a cake stand for an “occasion” treat. They’re best chilled in the refrigerator for half an hour or so, then lightly dusted with unsweetened cocoa powder just before serving. 6 extra-large egg whites 2⁄3 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted scant ½ cup ground hazelnuts generous 1⁄3 cup ground almonds scant ½ cup superfine sugar unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting (optional) Mocha Mousse 5½ ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into pieces 4 tablespoons milk 2 teaspoon powdered gelatin 2 teaspoon instant coffee granules 1 tablespoon coffee liqueur generous ¾ cup heavy cream 1. To make the mocha mousse, first melt the chocolate (see note). In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil, then sprinkle the gelatin over it and whisk until combined. Pour the milk into the melted chocolate and stir in the coffee granules and coffee liqueur until smooth. Set the mixture aside to cool. Whip the cream in a bowl until soft peaks form, then fold it into the chocolate mixture. Spoon the mousse into a pastry bag fitted with a small petal tip and then refrigerate until required. 2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a shallow 10-inch x 15-inch baking pan with parchment paper. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar while continuing to beat until the mixture is firm and glossy. Gently fold in the ground hazelnuts, ground almonds, and superfine sugar. Spread the batter evenly into the lined baking pan and bake in the preheated oven for about 15 minutes, or until firm to the touch. Use a 1-inch round cutter to cut out 30 circles from the meringue while it is still warm, then let cool completely on a wire rack before assembling. 3. To assemble the dacquoises, pipe a ruffle border of mousse onto 10 of the meringue circles, then place another circle on top of each one. Pipe another ruffled layer of mousse onto the second circle and then top with the remaining circles. If desired, dust with unsweetened cocoa before serving. Cook’s Notes If you don’t have a double boiler, you can melt chocolate in a microwave, preferably on a low (50 percent) power setting, to avoid scorching it. Place the chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl and heat in short bursts of 30 seconds, stirring in between. How long it will take to melt depends on the wattage of your microwave and the chocolate used. Finish heating when most, but not all, of the chocolate is melted. Remove from the microwave and stir the chocolate constantly until it is smooth and completely melted.
winter 2014 real food 47
Chocolate Brownies with Salted Caramel Frosting MAKES 24
Chocolate and salted caramel is one of the classic flavor combinations, and these delectable little brownies deliver a lot of taste for their delicate size. Your cooked brownie should have cooled completely before you cut out the shapes. If it’s still a little warm, you’ll find it hard to get clean edges. 1½ sticks unsalted butter, cubed 6½ ounces dark chocolate, broken into pieces 3 extra-large eggs generous 11⁄3 cups superfine sugar scant 2⁄3 cup all-purpose flour scant ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder gold sugar flowers, for decorating (optional)
Salted Caramel Frosting 1½ sticks salted butter, softened 1¾ cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted 3 tablespoons dulce de leche (caramel sauce) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon salt
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of a shallow 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper. To make the brownies, place the butter cubes and chocolate pieces in a heatproof bowl set over a small saucepan of simmering water until both have melted, stirring occasionally until mixed and smooth. Remove from the pan and let cool to room temperature. 2. In a separate bowl, use an electric mixer to beat the eggs and sugar together on high speed for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thick and creamy and has doubled in volume. Pour the cooled chocolate mixture over the egg-and-sugar mixture, then gently fold all the ingredients together with a spatula. Sift in the flour and cocoa powder and gently combine until the mixture is a sticky, fudgelike consistency. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and spread it into the corners with a spatula. Bake in the preheated oven for about 25 minutes, or until the top is shiny and the sides are just beginning to come away from the pan. Let the brownie cool completely in the pan. 3. To make the frosting, use an electric mixer to beat the butter and sugar together in a bowl for at least 5 minutes, then gradually add the dulce de leche, vanilla extract, and salt while continuing to beat. Place in a pastry bag fitted with a small star tip. 4. To assemble the brownies, use a small cutter shape of your choice to cut out 24 brownie bites. Pipe a zigzag of frosting on top of each brownie, then decorate each with a gold sugar flower, if desired.
48 real food winter 2014
Chocolate Ganache-Filled Tartlets
Ganache is a mixture of melted chocolate and cream. It can be poured over bakes while still warm as a glaze, or cooled and beaten to achieve a spreadable consistency. Ganache can be stored in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks, or frozen for up to 3 months. Let the ganache stand at room temperature to soften before use.
Rich chocolate dough is baked in tiny fluted tartlet pans, then filled with a creamy white, semisweet, or milk chocolate ganache and decorated with optional melted chocolate. You can prebake the shells several hours ahead, but don’t store them in the refrigerator, or the dough will lose its crispness. generous ½ cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 4½ tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and cubed, plus extra for greasing 2 tablespoons superfine sugar 1 extra-large egg yolk Filling & decoration 1 quantity of warm Ganache (recipe at right) 3½ ounces milk chocolate, melted (optional) 1. To make the dough, sift the flour and cocoa powder into a large mixing bowl, then rub in the butter with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs. Mix in the sugar and egg yolk to form a soft dough. If the mixture is too dry, add a little cold water. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill it in the refrigerator for an hour. 2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease individual mini tartlet pans (you can prepare and bake the tartlets in batches according to how many pans you may have). Roll out the dough on a lightly floured counter to about 1⁄4 inch thick. Use a small knife to cut out 24 squares slightly larger than your mini tartlet pans. Drape the dough squares into the prepared pans, gently pushing the dough into the bottom edges and against the pan sides to make strong pastry shells. Press down firmly along the rims of the pans to cut off the excess dough. Use a fork to prick holes all over the bottoms and sides of the tartlet shells. Place on a baking sheet, then place in the freezer for at least 30 minutes, until firm. 3. Bake the tartlet shells in the preheated oven for 8–10 minutes, until crisp. Let cool in the pans, then remove and fill each one with the white, semisweet, or milk chocolate ganache. Let them set at room temperature for several hours. If desired, fill a small pastry bag fitted with a small round piping tip with the melted milk chocolate and pipe drops on the tartlets to decorate. Let set before serving.
7 ounces semisweet or milk chocolate or 12½ ounces white chocolate ½ cup heavy cream 1. Break the chocolate into small pieces and place it in a medium bowl. 2. Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. 3. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let it sit for 1–2 minutes before stirring it with a whisk until the mixture is smooth and all the chocolate has melted. Cook’s Notes White chocolate can be a little difficult to work with, because it can split (become grainy) if it is overheated. Adding more white chocolate (as compared to milk or semisweet chocolate) in proportion to the amount of cream will help to overcome this problem.
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Pomegranate-Honey Pavlovas MAKES 24
Pomegranate seeds have a naturally jewel-like look and a sweet-sour taste that marries really well with the sugary meringue of a pavlova. Honey and chopped pistachios in the topping all add up to an exotically Eastern palette of flavors. You can make the meringue bases a day or two ahead of time and store them in an airtight container, adding the filling and topping just before you serve. Meringue Mixture (recipe at right) 1⁄3 cup shelled pistachio nuts 1 teaspoon honey
2⁄3 cup crème fraîche 4 tablespoons pomegranate seeds edible gold leaf, for decorating (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 225°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Use a 1½-inch round cutter as a guide to trace 12 evenly spaced circles on each sheet of parchment paper in pencil. Turn the parchment paper over so that the pencil does not rub off on the meringues while they are baking. 2. Use a spatula to spread the meringue mixture inside each circle on the parchment paper. Each of these will form the base of a pavlova. 3. Spoon the remaining meringue mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a small round piping tip. Pipe a border of meringue around the edge of each base. Bake the pavlovas in the preheated oven for about 1 hour, or until they have dried out. Let the pavlovas cool completely on the baking sheets before adding the filling. 4. Meanwhile, blanch the pistachio nuts in boiling water for 10 minutes, then rub off their skins with a clean dish towel before finely crushing them. When ready to serve, stir the honey into the crème fraîche and then spoon some into each pavlova. Sprinkle with the crushed pistachio nuts and pomegranate seeds, then top with gold leaf to decorate, if desired. Cook’s Notes Use clean equipment when preparing the meringue mixture. Any trace of grease on mixing bowls or utensils will affect the consistency and volume of the meringue. If possible, mix meringue in a glass or metal bowl. Any trace of egg yolk will ruin your meringue. Resist the temptation to dip a finger, piece of eggshell or a cotton-swab tip into your bowl to get the yolk out—it is often easiest just to discard that egg. First separate eggs into a small bowl and then add the egg whites individually to the larger mixing bowl—if some yolk slips through, you need only discard one egg white, not the whole batch. Baking at a low temperature allows for gradual evaporation of moisture from the meringue mixture. If the oven is too hot, the outside of the meringue will be crunchy and browned and the center will be chewy and sticky. 50 real food winter 2014
Meringue Mixture MAKES 24
3½ ounces egg whites (3 large egg whites) ½ cup superfine sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract scant 1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted 1. Using an electric mixer, start beating the egg whites on a slow speed to let small stabilizing bubbles form, then increase the speed to high and beat until they form soft peaks. Gradually add the superfine sugar, a tablespoonful at a time, while beating on a high speed until all the sugar has dissolved into the egg whites. Test a little of the meringue mixture between your fingers, and if it feels gritty, keep beating until the mixture is smooth. Add the vanilla extract to the mixture and then slowly fold in the confectioners’ sugar, using a spatula. The mixture should be glossy, at which point it is ready to pipe and bake. Once you have formed your meringue into the desired shapes, bake in a slow oven (225°F) until they have dried out, which will take at least an hour for smaller meringues and up to 3 hours for large pavlova nests.
Mini Mille-Feuilles with Elderflower Cream MAKES 24
Confected from the lightest puff pastry (in French, millefeuille means “thousand leaves”), thin slices of strawberry and cream infused with the understated but heady flavor of elderflower, these diminutive pastries look elegant and taste like the essence of a sunny summer’s day. 13 ounce ready-to-bake puff pastry, just thawed if frozen 1 tablespoon elderflower syrup 2 teaspoon superfine sugar
½ cup heavy cream 10 fresh strawberries, hulled and thinly sliced confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the puff pastry sheet into small rectangles 2 inches long and 1 inch wide. Arrange on the lined baking sheet and use a fork to prick holes into the surface of each one. Place a sheet of parchment paper over the top of the pastries. 2. Place another baking sheet on top of the pastries (to stop the pastry from rising too much during baking), then bake in the preheated oven for 10–15 minutes, until golden. Let the puff pastry layers cool completely on the baking sheet. 3. Mix the elderflower syrup and superfine sugar into the cream in a bowl and then beat until thick. To assemble each mille-feuille, spread the cream over a pastry layer, then top with strawberries and another layer of pastry. Spread more cream on top of the second pastry layer, then top with strawberries and a final pastry layer. Dust the top of each mille-feuille with confectioners’ sugar before serving.
Cook’s Notes The puff pastry layers can be baked ahead of time and stored in an airtight container. ■
MINI DACQUOISE TOWERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 252 (123 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 6g); CHOL 20mg; SODIUM 49mg; CARB 29g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 5g
CHOCOLATE BROWNIES W. SALTED CARAMEL FROSTING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 218 (119 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 8g); CHOL 48mg; SODIUM 111mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g
CHOCOLATE GANACHE-FILLED TARTLETS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 93 (56 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 4g); CHOL 19mg; SODIUM 3mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g
POMEGRANATE-HONEY PAVLOVAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 67 (25 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 1g); CHOL 7mg; SODIUM 9mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g
MINI MILLE-FEUILLES W. ELDERFLOWER CREAM: PER SERVING: CALORIES 110 (68 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 2g); CHOL 6mg; SODIUM 41mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g
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BY TARA Q. THOMAS
In his new cookbook, award-winning chef Marcus Samuelsson shares tips for layering on flavor at home, where it’s all about feeding family and friends.
PHOTOS ©PAUL BRISSMAN
IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE MARCUS SAMUELSSON OFF DUTY DUTY. By the time he was 23, he’d become the youngest chef in the history of The New York Times to garner a three-star review, for the cooking he was doing at Aquavit. And it was all hard work that got him that far; he’d arrived in the United States just a couple years earlier, after stages in France and culinary school in Sweden, where he was raised. He was just another apprentice working his way up the ranks. But his food stood out, artful and modern, with worldly flavor influences that brought a new perspective to Scandinavian cuisine long before Noma and other Scandinavian restaurants came on the scene. That was in 1995; Samuelsson now runs eight restaurants spread among Sweden, Chicago, Costa Mesa, California, and New York City. Red Rooster Harlem, his flagship venue, together with Ginny’s Supper Club, a jazz club downstairs from the restaurant, is more than a place to eat; it’s become part of the cultural nerve center of Harlem, thanks to the regular flow of artists, musicians, politicians, and neighbors Samuelsson draws in on a nightly basis. Samuelsson is a frequent face on television as well— you may have caught him on Iron Chef or Chopped AllStars, Top Chef Masters, 24 Hour Restaurant Battle, or his own television show, The Inner Chef Chef, on Discovery Network. When I catch him on the phone, he’s in L.A. shooting for ABC’s The Taste. My questions for him: Just how, given this crazy schedule, has he found time to pen his fifth cookbook— cookbook—Marcus Marcus Off Duty Duty—and —and what, in fact, does he know about cooking at home? “All my books are personal,” he says. “Each one of them takes four years, and that’s four years that you’re in it. This one is a bit different, though: this one comes out of moving to Harlem—It came from my home.” For a chef, this is unusual: Normally a chef starts with restaurant food and then simplifies it for the home cook. For Samuelsson, Marcus Off-Duty marks a journey that began in the aftermath of 9/11, when, like New Yorkers all over the city, he began looking for
comfort and connection closer to home. In the following years he married, found a home in Harlem with a real kitchen—something not taken for granted in the competitive world of NYC real estate—and a neighborhood with a close-knit community that welcomed him in. Over time, cooking at home was something he actually craved. Not that it was easy at first. “It’s very humbling!” he exclaims. “When you’re in a kitchen, you have sous chefs—you don’t have those at home! Also you have access to heat: You just don’t have the BTUs at home that you do in a restaurant kitchen, and so you run up against questions like ‘How do I get that perfect sear?’ ‘How do you develop flavors so good on a regular cooktop?’” The answer is clear in Marcus Off-Duty: Layers of flavor and varied spice go far in making up for those lost BTUs. His dill-spiced salmon—“the Swedish equivalent to American meatloaf,” he writes—takes on extra depth and dimension with a thick glaze of chili powder, cumin, and coriander and regular basting with warm olive oil and butter. Beef tenderloin becomes deliciously compelling after a rubdown in a mix of Provençal herbs, anchovies, coffee, and cacao. Even popcorn gets the spice-layer treatment, with a sweet-spicy sprinkle of cinnamon, salt, brown sugar, paprika, and cayenne.
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“When I think about building dishes, I often think about my childhood—not about what I ate, but how I felt.” —Marcus Samuelsson
In fact, if there was any difficulty in writing the book, it was in “not having fifty thousand ingredients in every dish,” he jokes. Samuelsson pulls from a wide range of influences, from his childhood in Sweden to the Ethiopian dishes he’s come to know as an adult, through visits to his birth family and his wife’s family. He incorporates Asian ingredients he got to know from working on cruise lines, hitting the pavement in search of good food as soon as the boat docked; he finds familiarity in Caribbean flavors, explaining that, like him, “it’s always been a mash-up of cultures.” Mashing up cultures takes some finesse, as anyone old enough to recall the “fusion food” trend of the 1980s can attest to. “The first thing to do is eat. Eat a lot of ethnic food,” he says. As he points out, thanks to the internet, it’s no longer difficult to find great Northern Thai food, Burmese cuisine, or a Keralan seafood joint in the States. “We’re beyond now saying “Asian” food or “Indian” food today. It’s just like fifteen years ago when we were figuring out that Italy is not just one country with one cuisine.”
MARCUS SAMUELSSON AND HIS WIFE, MAYA HAILE
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In the process of tasting, you’ll gain different views of building flavor. “Think about it: In America, we’ve overloaded with sugar. If you look at Asian cultures, there’s more sour and bitter. You can look at that and think, how do you build flavor? How do you build heat? Thai cooking isn’t just chile peppers; it comes with crunch and texture and layers of flavor.” What he takes back to the kitchen is insight more than recipes, he says. “I want authenticity when I first taste a dish, but it’s not necessarily where I’m going; I think yummy and delicious.” Rather, he might take the components he likes in a dish and map them on to something more familiar. “When I think about building dishes, I often think about my childhood—not about what I ate, but how I felt,” he replies. “For instance, my grandmother’s carrots: They were technically terrible, totally overcooked—but the feel was right. In a restaurant, it’s important to be provocative and entertaining; technique is important. But at home, all that really matters is that it’s delicious.” The challenge with getting to deliciousness is that there is no formula; you’ve got to feel it out. And you might want to begin with the hands, he suggests. “They are our first tool, and it’s important to come back to that,” he says. They are not only our most sensitive feedback tool—they’ll tell you when the bread dough is kneaded sufficiently, or when the steak is done to your liking; when the sauce is hot or how fresh the eggs are when they crack—they are also integral to our enjoyment of eating. “When you think of the dishes all over the world that we turn to when we want something comfortable,” he points out, “it’s pizza, burgers, injera, couscous, tacos—food eaten with the hands.” In fact, if he had to pick a favorite sort of food, Samuelsson says street food is his allout favorite, whether it’s meatballs on the street in Sweden or food stalls across Asia, tacos in Mexico, or fried fish in Barbados. It’s not just the camaraderie of eating outside, juice dripping down your arms with a bunch of people in the same situation; it’s in the immediacy of the food and the flavors. In a chapter he’s devoted to his own personal re-creations of street food, he compares street food to live music performances. “These are unplugged sessions,” he writes, “not rehearsed performances.” It’s food made with a minimum of equipment and fanfare; it’s just straight-up deliciousness.
There’s something about eating with your hands that also brings you closer to your food and each other, he says. He recalls how his grandmother would always taste her gravy by spooning it into the palm of her hand, then sipping it; he brings up how the Koreans have a saying that means something like “hand taste,” referring to the different flavor different people bring to the same recipe. When it comes to eating with family and friends, Samuelsson is big on the idea of bringing down “that knife-and-fork barrier.” As he writes in a chapter expressly crafted around the topic of feeding friends and family, “How can you not feel good when you’re looking across the table at a friend who’s picking meat out of a lobster knuckle and then licking her fingers?” Eating with the hands also introduces a level of intimacy many of us aren’t used to in the U.S. As Samuelsson points out, in cultures where it’s commonplace, eating with the hands signifies a deep trust in your dining companions. In Ethiopia, eating with the hands is a sign of “gursha,” he explains—“the utmost trust and sharing.” This is particularly important when there’s something to celebrate, and, as he points out, “most cultures cook for spiritual reasons; there are fasts, and then celebrations every month; there are reasons why they gather, why they come together to break that fast.” “We don’t have those markers, Samuelsson points out. We have to build these occasions.” In Samuelsson’s view, every meal has the potential of becoming an occasion—“entertaining” is not in his home-cooking vocabulary. It’s just about feeding family and friends. Music and spontaneity are encouraged; silverware is optional. ■
PHOTOS AND RECIPE EXCERPTED FROM MARCUS OFF DUTY: THE RECIPES I COOK AT HOME © 2014 BY MARCUS SAMUELSSON. REPRODUCED BY PERMISSION OF HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Roast Beef Tenderloin with a Coffee-Chocolate Crust MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Sometimes a celebration calls for a big, impressive roast of beef, and what better way to honor Mom than with beef tenderloin? It’s an elegant cut, fork-tender, but the flavor is mild so it’s an ideal candidate for a zesty rub. I start with Provençal flavors—rosemary, tarragon, mustard, anchovies, garlic—and add coffee and chocolate for rich, deep notes. 1 (3- to 4-pound) trimmed beef tenderloin kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons coffee beans 2 tablespoons black peppercorns 2 teaspoons grated unsweetened chocolate (100% cacao) 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 4 anchovy fillets, chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon needles from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped 1. Take the beef out of the refrigerator 1 hour before you plan to roast it and season with salt and pepper. 2. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 3. Crush the coffee beans and peppercorns with a mortar and pestle or on the counter with the back of a small, heavy skillet. 4. Mix the coffee bean–peppercorn mixture with the chocolate, mustard, anchovies, garlic, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to make a thick paste. 5. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, ovenproof skillet over high heat. When it shimmers, add the beef and sear it on all sides, about 8 minutes. Press down on the beef to get a good crust on it. Slather the paste on the beef and strew the herbs on top. 6. Slide the skillet into the oven and roast until the beef registers 120° to 125°F for medium-rare; start checking with an instant-read thermometer after 20 minutes. Tent the roast loosely with foil and let it rest for 30 minutes before carving.
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Break out the Bubbly Raise a glass to the holidays with food-friendly fizz. BY MARY SUBIALKA
bit of the bubbly is the hallmark of festive celebrations, but Champagne is good for more than effervescing with a toast at the stroke of the New Year. It also pairs well with a variety of foods ranging from Brie to brûlée—just keep the different styles in mind to best complement a particular food’s flavors. Champagne labeled brut—the most common type—is very dry. Extra dry, ironically, is slightly sweeter. Sec is medium sweet, demi-sec is sweet, and doux is very sweet. Demi-sec and doux are best as dessert wines or on their own. Seafood—including scallops and lobster—is a classic companion with sparkling wine—and it also pairs well with turkey. Salty snacks—even popcorn and chips—and deep-fried foods make a match with brut and extra dry Champagne as well as the classic cheese selections (Colby, Edam, Gouda, chèvre, Cheddar, and Brie). Try topping off the celebration with a sweet style alongside those almondflavored cookies or fruity desserts. ■ PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS
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