Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Summer 2020

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Lunds & Byerlys





















Flip for Burgers 03


Make your cookouts sizzle with deliciously different recipes

HOT SUMMER ENTREES: Fiery chili pepper meals SIDE DISHES: Bring more flavor, texture and color to the table CATCH OF THE DAY: Scrumptious seafood




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Sample mouth-watering grilled foods and treats, cool craft beer and seltzers, refreshing summer wines and more—all included with your ticket. Test out the hottest grills, gather recipes, learn how to barbecue like a pro and purchase specially priced grills, grilling accessories and locally made products from Minnesotan artisans.



Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit



real food summer 2020

20 Flipping for Burgers Up your grilling game with deliciously different burgers made from beef, lamb, turkey, salmon and veggies BY MOLLY STEVENS

32 A Different Side of Summer Switch up your side dishes and bring more flavor, texture and color to the table BY ROBIN ASBELL

38 Catch of the Day Enjoy smooth sailing with recipes, tips and techniques for a variety of seafood RECIPES BY BARTON SEAVER

46 Hot Summer Entrees Creating fiery dishes is easy with the great variety of chili peppers to choose from RECIPES BY DAN MAY

52 Toni Tipton-Martin Cookbook “Jubilee” shows the rich contributions of African American cooking BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Aligning your meals to signs of the zodiac RECIPES BY CATHERINE URBAN

6 Kitchen Skills Marinades for the grill, salads and more BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Making the most of basil, cilantro and rosemary BY KATELYN BLOOMQUIST

18 Healthy Habits The buzz about antioxidants BY LIANNA MATT MCLERNON

56 Pairings Wine and seafood mates BY MARY SUBIALKA

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Our Cover

Steakhouse Blue Cheese Burgers with Pickled Red Onions (page 23) Photograph by Terry Brennan Food styling by Lara Miklasevics





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VOLUME 16, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. C








The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

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Cater to the Cosmos Need an idea for your next dinner party? You could do worse than consulting your horoscope

Summer Vegetable Slaw


hether you laugh at or live by the zodiac, its revival is in full swing. Cultural critics have suggested we’re finding peace of mind handing decisions over to the stars—so why not let the cosmos do the cooking, too? For that, Bon Appétit magazine’s horoscope columnist, Catherine Urban, has released “Your Astrological Cookbook,” aligning the 12 signs with 17 recipes each. Are you a comfort-craving Cancer? Married to a flashy Leo? Hosting a health-nut Virgo? We’ve chosen a couple summer-sign meals for your perusal, but read on for a chart of Urban’s culinary classifications. —Erik Tormoen


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Cool breeze, hot sun and the smell of a charcoal grill bring back fond memories of summer. And if you live in the northern hemisphere, then picnic season is also birthday season for you, Cancer! This vibrant Summer Vegetable Slaw is just the thing to make any meal feel like a celebration, whether you’re bringing it to the barbecue or prepping it as a side to enjoy from your own kitchen table. It’s brightened with apple cider vinegar and sweetened with a smidge of sugar. Let your tastes lead when it comes to selecting your vegetables. Freshness and deliciousness are the only goals you have in mind, thoughtful Cancer! 1 small head napa cabbage or regular green cabbage (about 1 pound), quartered, cored and sliced as thinly as possible 2 medium carrots, peeled and julienned 1⁄4 pound snow peas, julienned 1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and julienned 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and julienned 1 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and julienned 12 green beans, julienned 1 small red onion, peeled and julienned 2 medium ears fresh sweet corn, shucked and kernels cut from cobs 1⁄2 teaspoon granulated sugar 1⁄4 cup apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon peanut oil (or vegetable oil) 1⁄8 teaspoon celery seeds 1⁄8 teaspoon salt 1⁄8 teaspoon ground black pepper 1. In a large bowl, combine all vegetables. 2. Dress with sugar, vinegar, oil, celery seeds, salt and pepper to taste. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes before serving.



Lively Leos know how to party. Keep the crowd roaring with a late-night sweet treat like these Key Lime Bars. Leo cannot pass up the distinctive taste of key lime—exquisitely fluffy and irresistibly tangy, especially in dessert form. The graham cracker crust takes this treat to the next level, adding necessary elements of texture and salt. It’s basically a bite-sized Margarita, Leo, so put on your favorite Hawaiian shirt (or dress) and serve up these tasty squares with gusto! Another thing you’ll appreciate? These beautiful green bites will be as eye-catching as you are, fashionable Leo! 2 cups graham cracker crumbs 1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly 4 large eggs, at room temperature 13⁄4 cups granulated sugar 3⁄4 cup freshly squeezed key lime juice 3⁄4 cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons key lime zest, divided 5 key limes, sliced into thin slices 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a small bowl, mix together graham cracker crumbs and butter with a fork. Press into the bottom of an 8×8-inch baking pan. Bake 5 minutes. Set aside. 3. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, key lime juice, flour and 11⁄2 tablespoons zest. Pour over the graham cracker crust. 4. Return pan to oven and bake 35 minutes or until the bars are fully set. Cool completely before slicing. Sprinkle with remaining lime zest and top each with a lime slice and serve. 

Aries: The Spontaneous Chef “As a fire sign who is prone to burnout, you need foods that give you endurance. You also prefer meals with shorter prep times and love time-saving hacks.” Sweet Potato Apple Latkes, Ratatouille, Tequila Sunrise Margarita Taurus: The Smooth Chef “Taurus brings a smooth elegance to the table, favoring recipes that are simple, solid and decadent.” Mediterranean Omelet, Oysters on the Half Shell with Mignonette Sauce, Cake Doughnuts Gemini: The Adventurous Chef “You’re capable of creating marvelous concoctions that keep us guessing, though you also love a dish with a story behind it.” Lemon Poppy Seed Smoothie, Bibimbap, Nectarine Upside-Down Cake Cancer: The Mood Chef “In the kitchen, Cancers are always intuitively guided by how they feel. They love recreating nostalgic recipes shared with loved ones.” Chicken Potpie, Summer Vegetable Slaw, Slow Cooker Cider

Libra: The Fancy Chef “If a Libra starlet invites you to be a guest at their table, know that they’ve designed the meal with you in mind.” Coconut Strawberry Pancakes, Ricotta Crostini, Chipotle Lime Duck with Chipotle Cherry Sauce Scorpio: The Enigmatic Chef “Spicy foods benefit this fierce fixed water sign, so it’s a good thing that these starry arachnids are poised to stand the heat!” Chilaquiles, Jamaican Red Bean Stew, Spinach and Feta Pie Sagittarius: The Innovator Chef “You’re not afraid to change up the recipe on a whim purely because it sounds fun.” WholeGrain Pumpkin Muffins, Tropical Cobb Salad, Beef Meatballs Capricorn: The Sophisticated Chef “Less is more for these refined earth signs. These classy minimalists value quality over quantity—which is also evident in their cooking style!” Homemade Breakfast Sausage Patties, Gnocchi and Purple Potatoes with Broccolini, Pecan Cake

Leo: The Luminous Chef “Leos captivate their guests with a full menu of class-act dishes to be enjoyed around lively dinner conversation.” Irish Oatmeal and Poached Fruit, Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce, Cheese-Stuffed Bifteki

Aquarius: The Scientist Chef “The Aquarian kitchen is geeked out with gadgets, complete with an air fryer, an ergonomic pineapple corer and a sous vide.” Sweet and Spicy Almonds, Beef and Polenta Casserole, Caramel Sour Cream Cake

Virgo: The Logical Chef “Favoring simple dishes, these thoughtful intellectuals are willing to take the extra time to elevate a dish from good to excellent.” Homemade Bean and Vegetable Burgers, Miso Soup, Grapefruit Cosmopolitan

Pisces: The Intuitive Chef “Leave it to Pisces to put their fantastical creative flair on every dish (which often features a rare ingredient).” Breakfast Baklava French Toast, Seven-Ingredient Anchovy Fusilli, Jelly Roll

summer 2020 real food 5

kitchen skills

More with Marinades Get the most out of marinades for the grill, salads and more BY JASON ROSS


arinades are the best way to flavor grilled meats and fish, and they do much more, serving as sauces and salad dressings. But did you know they can also buffer against the harsh and dry heat of the grill, serve as a garnish, and even work as a preservative? Here are some guidelines for using marinades as well as a couple of my favorite marinade recipes to try. PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS


MARINADE TIPS: GET DOWN THE GENERAL RATIO. Most dressings (including store bought) can be used interchangeably as salad dressing or marinade. For classic vinaigrette, one part acid to two to three parts oil is a general rule to follow. The same ratio works for oil-based marinades.

Spicy Citrus Soy Marinade MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

FLAVOR BIG. In addition to acid and fat, a marinade needs seasoning such as herbs, spices, salt and pepper. Why not make the flavors big? Remember, the seasoning needs to be strong enough to both flavor the grilled food and to withstand the intensity of the grill’s heat, char marks and drying.

Soy is a great addition to so many marinades. Here it is used with spicy serrano chilies and juiced oranges and limes. I particularly like this marinade with flank steak, but try it with almost any cut of beef as well as chicken, lamb, pork or fish. Shrimp would be great, too!

DO NOT OVERUSE MARINADE. You only need enough to coat. Not only is it wasteful to drown foods in marinade, but you want to save some for basting and finishing. Also, very little marinade will penetrate deeply into the meat; it’s mostly for the surface. In general, ½ cup of marinade will flavor 1 to 11/2 pounds of beef, lamb, pork, chicken or fish. Make sure all surfaces are coated with marinade by flipping them over on all sides until you get good full coverage.

2 cloves garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon minced ginger 1 serrano chili, diced ¼ cup lime juice ¼ cup orange juice 2 tablespoons soy sauce

BE CAREFUL ABOUT TOO MUCH TIME IN THE MARINADE. There is a tendency to think that more time equals more flavor, but more time means mostly more textural changes. The acid in the marinade breaks down or untangles the protein fibers, and meat can get mushy and dry, or even crumbly in the case of fish. The tougher the meat, the more time it can handle: Marinate fish for 15 to 20 minutes and chicken 30 minutes to 1 hour. Tougher cuts of beef or pork can handle up to 2 hours. PRESERVE YOUR MEATS WITH LESS ACIDIC MARINADES. While over marinating toughens meats and fish, you can use adjusted marinade formulas as short-term preservative, which adds a couple extra days in the cooler to meats and fish. To do this, weaken the acid in the marinade by doubling the oil or make a small batch of marinade with acid completely omitted. The dilution of the acid will slow the breakdown of fiber, while the marinade coating will help prevent oxidation and discoloration. ALWAYS RESERVE SOME OF THE MARINADE. Keep in mind that as soon as marinade touches raw meat or fish it is contaminated and cannot be used as a sauce. You will want to use extra marinade to baste grilled items as they cook and after they come off the grill to add shine and bump up flavor that was lost to cooking. STORE MARINATED FOODS IN NON-REACTIVE CONTAINERS. Use glass, stainless steel or ceramic— never aluminum. The aluminum will react with the acid, leach and discolor the food as well as add an acrid metallic flavor.

1 cup olive oil ½ cup thinly sliced green onion (about 3 to 4 onions) 1 teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1. In a medium sized mixing bowl combine garlic, salt, ginger and chili with lime juice and orange juice. 2. Add remaining ingredients to the bowl and stir to combine. 3. Use immediately or transfer to a jar or lidded container and refrigerate for up to 7 days.

Chermoula Marinade MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP, 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Chermoula is a punchy sauce used in North African cuisines. Often paired with fish, it also works well with beef, lamb, pork, or chicken.

3 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons salt ½ cup lemon juice 1 cup olive oil 1 tablespoon paprika ½ tablespoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 pinch cayenne 1 cup minced parsley (flat leaf or curly)

1. In a medium sized mixing bowl combine garlic with salt and lemon juice. 2. Add remaining ingredients to the bowl and stir to combine. 3. Use immediately or transfer to a jar or lidded container and refrigerate for up to 7 days. 

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Robin Asbell spreads the

word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is “Plant-Based Meats.” She is also the author of “300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix”; “Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Molly Stevens is a cooking

instructor, writer and recipe developer. Her cookbooks include “All About Dinner” as well as the James Beard and IACP cookbook award winners “All About Braising” and “All About Roasting.” She has been named Cooking Teacher of the Year by both Bon Appétit and IACP. Stevens’ recipes and articles have appeared regularly in a number of national publications. She lives in Vermont and travels the country to teach, cook and eat. Find out more about her writing and teaching schedule at

Terry Brennan is a

Tara Q. Thomas is a lapsed

chef who trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. She used to enjoy going out to dinner before she had kids—now, she prefers to interview chefs, gathering intel on how to make home dinners better. Thomas writes for several magazines, most prominently Wine & Spirits, where she is an editor and wine critic covering European wines. She has also contributed to the “Oxford Companion to Cheese” and the “Oxford Companion to Spirits.” She lives in Brooklyn, New York.

photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight for me—I look forward to every issue. I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Jason Ross is a chef consultant

for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently, he teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School. 8 real food summer 2020

Barton Seaver is a leading

sustainable seafood expert and educator. Before leaving the restaurant industry, he was an award-winning chef leading top seafood restaurants in Washington, D.C. He has written seven seafood-centric books including “The Joy of Seafood,” “For Cod and Country,” and “Two If By Sea” and has contributed to Every Day with Rachael Ray, Fine Cooking, The New York Times, O: The Oprah Magazine and the Washington Post. He has appeared on “60 Minutes,” CNN, NPR, “20/20” and the TED stage and hosted “In Search of Food” on the Ovation Network and “Eat: The History of Food” on National Geographic TV. He lives in coastal Maine, a stone’s throw away from a working waterfront, with his wife, son and their flock of heritage chickens.

Lunds & Byerlys welcome

Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000 Woodbury: 651-999-1200


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“There’s a way to do it better— find it.”


’m not sure Thomas Edison had food innovation in mind when he said this, but it does make me think of our amazingly talented culinary team that is always striving to bring you offerings that are better than what you might find elsewhere. Better in terms of flavor. Better in terms of ingredients. And, in many cases, better in terms of convenience. You will find examples of this throughout every area of our stores from our unique spice blends to meals developed by our executive chefs including Better For You frozen entrées, our Ready To Heat meals in the deli and steamer meals in the meat and seafood department. “As a trained chef, I never thought in a million years I would be developing seafood meals you can simply steam in the microwave,” said Executive Chef Michael Selby. “But when you challenge the limitations of what is possible, you’re able to discover that even a seafood meal can go into the microwave and be just as fresh and delicious as a more conventional recipe that takes you significantly more time to prepare.” Based on the success of our seafood steamer meals, Chef Selby, along with Executive Chef Amy Carter, have now expanded our line to include chicken steamers. These meals, featuring boneless chicken tenders, grains and fresh vegetables, also go right into the microwave and are ready to eat in about four minutes (see page 10 to learn more).

Another recent example of our commitment to finding ways to create even better products is the introduction of our plant-based burgers, sausages, brats and meatballs. With demand for these products continuing to increase, manufacturers are responding with more and more plant-based proteins. To meet this growing demand, our culinary team, led by Chef Selby, spent nearly nine months in our test kitchen with the goal of creating plant-based proteins featuring real, fresh ingredients with better flavor and texture (see story on page 11). I encourage you to add these to your summer grilling rotation and be sure to let us know what you think. We’ll never rest in our quest to create offerings that are better than what any of us might have thought possible thanks to our team’s entrepreneurial spirit and passion for food. Thank you for choosing to shop with us. And we hope you continue to enjoy Real Food. Sincerely,

Tres Lund Chairman and CEO

FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663 real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys plant-based proteins

Plant Power New and delicious chef-crafted products harness the power of vegetables and grains

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During the creation of these R O E I T items, we said “no” to artificial ingredients. Instead, we roast fresh beets and garbanzo beans with prepared jasmine or Minnesota-harvested wild rice and combine them with avocado oil and fresh herbs for a rich, bold flavor. For protein, we turn to hemp seed, which offers a mild, nutty flavor and a wealth of nutrients and healthy fats. Nearly all the plant-based proteins are made without gluten, soy, dairy or nuts, which makes them an allergy-friendly option, too. Plus, most selections have a minimum of 10 grams of protein and 20 grams or less of fat per serving. Look for our plant-based burgers, Italian link sausages, brats and meatballs in all of our meat and seafood departments. If you’re curious about plant-based protein or are looking for an additional protein source in your diet, give our new plant-based proteins a try! 


You have probably heard a lot about plant-based proteins lately, but they aren’t new. For years, veggie burgers and black bean burgers reigned supreme as plant-based options. More recently, we have seen an influx of plantbased meat replacements hit the market to meet customers’ growing demands. As this trend continued and more of our customers began asking for additional plant-based proteins, we engaged our research and development team to come up with new plant-based offerings that focus on clean ingredients. Our team, led by Executive Chef Michael Selby, spent nine months in the test kitchen harnessing the power of real vegetables, hearty grains and hemp protein to achieve incredible flavor and texture. Their curiosities and time in the test kitchen led to culinary innovation—a plant-based protein made using only real, fresh ingredients. Our team believes that vegetables, legumes and grains can be as rich in flavor as meat if they are prepared with care and skill using quality ingredients.




he sun is shining, the grill is hot, and the beer is ice cold. I admit, this might sound like a lyric in a country song, but it’s also the start to a perfect summer barbecue. And this summer, in addition to throwing some of our gourmet burgers and L&B brats on the grill, I’ll also be grilling some of our new L&B Plant-Based Proteins.



Lunds & Byerlys meal solutions

Meat & Seafood Steamers

Upgrade lunch with quick yet satisfying meals created with quality and flavor in mind


hat’s your go-to weekday lunch? If you’re stuck in the rut of frozen meals and salads at your desk, listen up! Our meat and seafood steamers are incredibly quick (read: four minutes!), deeply satisfying and intensely flavorful meals that will upgrade any lunch break. And our steamers are a game changer during busy mealtimes! All it takes is four minutes in the microwave and you can have a hot, hearty meal on the table. Each of our chef-crafted meals combines sustainable seafood or boneless chicken tenders with hearty grains, fresh vegetables and bold seasonings and sauces that are all tucked into a microwaveable tray. Whether you’re looking for something globally inspired, spicy or on the mild side, we have a delicious option for you. And, as a bonus, there are no dirty dishes at the end of the meal!



Creole Tilapia & Dill Rice: Dill and tomato rice provides the perfect flavorful base for a diced veggie blend and tilapia fillet brushed with Arbequina olive oil and our signature Creole spice blend.

Teriyaki Chicken & Bamboo Rice: Exotic bamboo-infused rice is loaded with fresh edamame, carrots, daikon radish and shiitake mushrooms and is topped with togarashi orange teriyaki marinated chicken tenders.

Peach Glazed Tilapia & Edamame Rice: Enjoy the fresh flavor and rainbow of color in this tilapia meal. A Georgia peach-marinated fillet sits atop Basmati rice tossed with mango edamame salsa.

Tex-Mex Chicken & Street Corn: Flavors of the Southwest come alive with Latin-spiced chicken tenders sitting atop a three-pepper blend and a side of our Mexican street corn.

Carolina BBQ Shrimp & Coconut Rice: The South comes alive with this meal of coconut rice, beans, slaw and shrimp slathered in our signature Carolina BBQ sauce. Dragon Breath Shrimp & Rice: The delightfully spicy Dragon Breath Shrimp is well balanced with the cool, refreshing cilantro lime rice, superfood slaw and mango salsa. Latin Spiced Salmon & Cilantro Lime Rice: This flavor-forward meal starts with a superfood slaw and rice, topped with salmon brushed with Arbequina olive oil and crusted with our signature blend of Latin spices. Pesto Salmon & Lemon Rice: Mediterranean flavors abound in basil pesto-encrusted salmon on a bed of lemon rice with fresh broccoli and roasted tomatoes.

Bistro Chicken & Lemon Couscous: Chicken tenders marinated in our French Garden Spices and garlic are placed atop a bed of jeweled couscous that’s loaded with asparagus, peas and carrots and finished with a drizzle of lemon sage butter. Island Chicken & Tropical Spice Rice: Tropical island flavors abound in this vibrant blend of jasmine rice with fresh mango and pineapple that’s topped with a mild yellow pepper purée and pineapple-marinated chicken tenders.

The next time you’re trying to make lunch plans, look to our quick and easy steamers in the meat and seafood department at your favorite Lunds & Byerlys. You’ll have a restaurant-quality lunch in minutes!  real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys meat & seafood

L&B Seasoning & Salmon Three Ways Get inspired with versatile, healthy salmon and our L&B fish seasonings


id you know salmon is the No. 1 most eaten fish in America? Some folks love salmon because it’s packed with nutrients such as Omega-3 fatty acids, biotin, selenium, vitamin D and more. It’s fantastic for your heart, brain, joints and skin. Here at Lunds & Byerlys, we’re glad it’s so healthy because it’s simply one of our favorite fish to cook and eat. In part, this is because we carry the highest quality of salmon around: Sixty South Antarctic salmon. It’s sustainably raised with no added hormones, growth promoters or antibiotics, ever. It’s some of the best salmon you’ll ever eat. In the kitchen, salmon is one of those proteins you can do almost anything to and it will taste amazing: You can deep fry, smoke, sear, bake or barbecue it. It makes a very buttery sashimi, too. And its rich, mild flavor pairs beautifully with a variety of seasonings, sauces and salsas. In the spirit of versatility, inspiration and easy weeknight meals—we paired Sixty South salmon with a few of our favorite L&B fish seasonings. The results are delicious.

L&B NORTHERN LIGHTS FISH SEASONING & PAN-SEARED SALMON Even if we say it ourselves, L&B Northern Lights Fish Seasoning is a fascinating blend. It’s full of raspberries, hickory-smoked salt, orange peel, paprika and herbs—it tastes like the Northwoods, smoky campfires and barbecue. We rub it into our salmon fillets and then pan-sear the fish until the skin is crispy and the meat is tender and flaky. The seasoning gives the fish a wonderful smoky heat, and you can taste the sweetness of those berries.

L&B SIGNATURE FISH SEASONING & GRILLED SALMON KABOBS L&B Signature Fish Seasoning is full of paprika, citrus peels and garlic—it smells and tastes just like a summer barbecue on the deck. It’s a great way to bring all that sunshine and warmth into your kitchen. We love how this blend tastes on the grilled salmon kabobs: The paprika has a pleasant kick, and it’s delicious with the char from the grill. We skewered some red onions and bell peppers too, and the seasoning’s orange and lemon notes help bring out all their natural sweetness.

L&B GONE FISHIN’ SEASONING & BAKED SALMON L&B Gone Fishin’ Seasoning is a delightful riff on the classic combination of lemon and dill. It’s made with lemon peel, brown sugar, honey, dill and garlic—think puckery-sweet and full of fresh, herby flavor. When the blend is sprinkled over salmon and baked, all that savory dill and garlic comes forward and you get a lightly sweet, lemony finish. This is the best thing about a great spice blend: You get a ton of flavor, but it’s super easy—as easy as pulling a jar out of the spice rack. 

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

PATH OF LIFE FROZEN SIDES Path of Life makes high-quality, simple and convenient frozen side dishes that can be incorporated into any lifestyle. Whether you’re looking for a flavorful veggie-centric side or a hearty grain-based dish, they offer delicious veggieforward options made with clean plant-based ingredients. Varieties include a riced cauliflower blend, quinoa and kale blend, Southwest mango quinoa blend, Mediterranean quinoa blend, Asian wok quinoa blend, roasted garlic cauliflower, and deep roots quinoa blend.

Did you know? Path of Life is a family-owned company that began in 2015 with one focus: making foods that are flavorful and easy to cook. Their frozen side dishes make it exceptionally easy to accommodate food allergies and dietary restrictions and take just minutes to prepare.

TINTO KITCHEN TORTILLAS AND HOT SAUCE Tinto Kitchen now offers the signature scratch-made flavors of its local Minneapolis restaurant in the deli section at all Lunds & Byerlys stores. The authentic tortilleria-style tortillas are made using corn masa and come in two flavors—original corn and ancho chile. And for a perfect taco topper, give the tangy and sharp hot sauce a try. It’s made with a blend of roasted tomatoes and chilies and just a hint of lime, so it’s a little bit sweet and a little bit hot.

Did you know? Tinto’s tortillas and hot sauce are vegan and gluten free, which makes them the perfect addition to your taco night repertoire.

BAKED IN BROOKLYN STICKS AND PITA CHIPS Baked in Brooklyn is a bustling New York bakery that creates undeniably delicious snacks. When you bite into a Baked in Brooklyn snack, the extraordinarily perfect crunch and intense, full flavor welcome you to Brooklyn. Varieties include sesame sticks, honey mustard sticks, BBQ sticks, sea salt pita chips and dill pickle pita chips.

Tip: Whether you prefer a stick or a chip, Baked in Brooklyn snacks are wholesome on their own, but equally tasty matched with creamy dips, savory spreads or a good schmear.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

WÂHIWATER From cleansing to replenishing, repairing to extending your stamina, every WÂHIWATER is created to deliver pure refreshment and a targeted functional health benefit. Each variety offers elevated hydration with all-natural minerals and plant extracts to help you feel your best inside and out. “Purify” provides anti-inflammation; “Repair” supports hair, skin and nails; “Revive” revitalizes the body; and “Drive” provides exercise support and recovery.

Did you know? Although WÂHIWATER is infused with all-natural minerals and plant extracts, it still has a crisp, clean taste and crystal-clear clarity.

STICK BEVERAGES STICK TEAS Locally owned Stick Beverages brings all the globally shared benefits of tea into our daily lives in a modern and ultraconvenient way. Stick Teas takes the form of a stick, so it’s easy for you to handle and stir without drips or a mess— there’s no spoon needed! Plus, the teas come from prestigious farms all around the world. Varieties include green, black, rooibos, earl grey and lemon ginger.

L&B KOMBUCHA Whether you’re new to kombucha or you’re already a fan of the lightly effervescent, fermented beverage, our new line of L&B Kombucha offers something for everyone! Each batch of kombucha is 100 percent raw and crafted from scratch using reverse osmosis purified water, Rishi tea and the finest herbal ingredients. These refreshing, probiotic-packed beverages come in five flavors: jasmine, hibiscus ginger, raspberry mint, blueberry basil and matcha. Look for our new line of L&B Kombucha in the dairy department!

Tip: Many people enjoy kombucha on its own as a delicious, fizzy beverage, but it can also be turned into an incredible craft cocktail. Try our blueberry basil kombucha in a Blueberry & Basil Smash or put on your mixologist apron and create something of your own!

Did you know? “Stick” inherits both its name and its secrets from the unique, innovative filter built directly into the package. The aluminum disposable infuser has 450 holes that allow you to brew tea directly in your cup of water. real food 15


Superb Herbs When it comes to your favorite summer herbs, here are delicious ways to use every last leaf BY KATELYN BLOOMQUIST


hile basil, cilantro and rosemary are in abundance in the summer, they’re usually packaged in a bundle with more green goodness than you’ll need for a single recipe. Instead of letting leftover herbs spoil, use them in other dishes both savory and sweet. BASIL Whether it’s for hot pasta sauce or cold salad, basil introduces a pleasant, balsamic smell and spicy-sweet yet peppery, taste. Pesto (perfect for pasta, pizza or panini sandwiches) is a popular way to use an excess of basil, but tossing the herb with chopped tomatoes, cucumber, thinly sliced sweet onion and avocado wedges in a salad will also snag five stars from your family and friends. Mincing for homemade basil butter is worth the effort, especially when it’s spread on garlicky French bread, grilled mushrooms or finished steaks. Add basil to desserts for an unexpected zip of flavor. Combine lemon zest, granulated sugar and basil leaves in a food processor to create a lemon basil sugar to mix into shortbreads, butter cookies and other delights. CILANTRO With its clean aroma and lemony taste, cilantro is a key ingredient in Middle Eastern salads, Mexican plates and Indian rice dishes. Even as a “love it or hate it” herb, its flavor can add a refreshing touch to a myriad of dishes. Using chopped or whole leaves is typically the way to go, and either option works wonderfully in pico de gallo or mango salsa. Pair the salsas with cilantro-topped shrimp ceviche. Condiments like chutney and peanut sauce also use large amounts of the herb. Blend cilantro with a chili pepper, lime juice and sugar for a chutney to elevate flavor in grilled cheese sandwiches and atop crackers and roasted meats, and add chopped cilantro to peanut sauce for dipping spring rolls and pot stickers. Save some leaves for garnishing curries, stir-fries, sour cream mixtures for chili or soup, and more.

Maximize Storage: Place stem ends of these herbs in a glass of water like cut flowers. Place a plastic bag over the leaves of basil and cilantro and refrigerate two weeks or so. Keep the glass of rosemary on the counter for a week or more as it will not benefit from refrigeration.

ROSEMARY Often used in Mediterranean cooking, rosemary also has impressive versatility, mixing well with proteins, starches, veggies, fruits and even cocktails, wine and beer. Roast fresh sprigs with veggies like zucchini and eggplant, or give your next fruit bowl a twist with rosemary’s pungent, pinelike taste—it will balance the sweetness and acidity of apricots and other fruits. Finely chopped leaves are a creative way to enhance homemade jams, dumplings, scones and tried-and-true bread recipes. Add chopped or dried rosemary to the dough, but save a little to sprinkle on top with a pinch of kosher salt. For grilling, use the stems as skewers. Remove the leaves, soak the stems for 30 minutes, skewer and grill meat as usual, or add rosemary to the coals and let smoke infuse your proteins with a hint of camphor and a note of nutmeg. Experiment with herbal compatibility. Flavors of basil blend seamlessly with those of cilantro and rosemary, but we warned you first: Cilantro and rosemary clash when combined. Still sitting with leftovers? Put the leaves in an ice tray, fill the cubes with olive oil, and place in the freezer. When you’re ready to use them down the road, melt cubes in a saucepan and cook your meal in the herb-infused oil. 


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healthy habits

Sustenance Over Supplements F

lavonoids, tannins, phenols, lignans, carotenoids, lycopene, lutein, curcuminoids, oleocanthal, selenium, chlorogenic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin A and more … They all go under one broader category: antioxidants. Despite the immediate “ding” of recognition that might happen when you read or hear this word, research suggests that while antioxidants may help with inflammation, aging and chronic diseases, loading yourself up with antioxidant supplements doesn’t usually help. THE BASICS Before we can talk about what antioxidants do, first we have to talk about what they’re counterbalancing: free radicals. If you think back to your high school chemistry days, you probably learned about oxidation-reduction reactions, which involve losing or gaining electrons (which in turn can cause the joining or separating of molecules). Molecules called free radicals are highly oxidative, so they’re highly reactive with many of your body’s cells in ways that are sometimes detrimental. In search of a molecule to give its electron to, free radicals can cause damage to cells and DNA. Unfortunately, you cannot avoid free radicals in your life: They’re in radiation like the sun’s ultraviolet rays or X-rays; they’re from toxins like cigarette smoke; they’re abundant in refined sugar. They’re from you—free radicals form when your body turns food into energy.

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“Free radicals are like a pinball in a pinball machine racing around,” says Caroline Weeks, a registered dietitian and nutritionist with Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minnesota. “As you hit the levers, the pinball haphazardly hits all the bells and whistles in the machine—that would be an analogy of what it does to our cells and our body. … Antioxidants are sort of the protective shield against those radicals; they help combat some of that damage and protect the body from that cellular damage that free radicals naturally do.” While most of free radicals’ publicity showcases how they hurt us, it’s about balance. Free radicals have also been known to spark our immune system when infection occurs, and one study published in Nature in 2015 even indicated that they might help kill cancerous cells that are trying to metastasize. So, we don’t necessarily have to fret over all of the free radicals we’re creating. All we have to do is balance them, which conveniently means having a healthy lifestyle and diet. SUPPLEMENTS DON’T CUT IT Our own body produces an antioxidant, glutathione, but to mitigate the detrimental effects of too many free radicals, we need to get antioxidants from food sources. When the superfood trend hit, antioxidant density was one of the main measurements to determine foods were deemed super, but more often than not, those foods also contained a variety of


Here’s why, decade after decade, there’s still a buzz about antioxidants


other beneficial components, such as healthy fats, protein, low caloric density or a high density of vitamins and minerals. While people who eat foods high in antioxidants can experience benefits such as a lower risk of heart disease, cancer and other ailments, those who receive their antioxidants through supplements such as vitamin C pills usually do not receive the same boons. For instance, in a 2007 study published by the Archives of Internal Medicine, vitamin E, ascorbic acid and beta carotene did not benefit 1,450 women at high risk of cardiovascular disease. Another study, published in 2005 by the Women’s Health Study, followed almost 40,000 women ages 45 years or older across an average of 10 years. It indicated that vitamin E did not overall help women prevent heart disease, but it might be more helpful for women over 65. Still, even that study noted that this finding was unusual. Another study published in 2008 by the Journal of American Medical Association looked at the effects of vitamin E and C on major cardiovascular events across 14,641 male physicians (50years plus) over 10 years. Neither appeared to help; vitamin E even correlated with an increased risk of hemorrhagic stroke. Research isn’t conclusive as to why supplements do not show a stronger benefit, but a prevailing idea is that with food, the sum is greater than its parts. “When you take a supplement, you’re only taking one small piece in the puzzle,” Weeks says, “not a synergistic effect that you do with food.” Other factors might include the body’s lesser ability to absorb and optimize supplements, and the common correlation of a healthy diet and an overall healthy, active lifestyle. If you do buy supplements, please note that they are not regulated by the Food & Drug Administration, so the company’s claims are not clinically proven and their substances technically aren’t verified.

The fresh produce of summer is often high in antioxidants, but here are three neutral-colored foods that you should also consider: Coffee: While some antioxidants are lost when you roast the coffee, other antioxidants are formed during the same process. One example is chlorogenic acid; 10 grams of roasted coffee beans can have 15-325 mg chlorogenic acids (with an average of 200 mg). (To compare, lowbush blueberries have 65.12 mg of chlorogenic acid per one-cup serving, and highbush blueberries have 19.24 mg.) Eggs: Eggs should be on the list of common superfoods because they’re packed with nutrition. Antioxidants include selenium (29 percent of your recommended daily intake) and 10 percent of vitamins A and E. Other antioxidant compounds include ovalbumin and ovotransferrin in the egg whites, together constituting 66 to 67 percent of it, as well as phospholipids and carotenoids in the egg yolk. Mushrooms: According to a 2017 study by researchers at Penn State, mushrooms of many types, particularly porcini, contain high amounts of ergothioneine and glutathione. Unlike other foods, cooking mushrooms may not detract from their antioxidant value because ergothioneine is more heat stable than other substances.  Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

ADDING ANTIOXIDANTS As for all of the many types of antioxidants? Don’t get caught up with the names; just aim for having a variety of food. One of the reasons that superfoods are usually colorful is because the pigmentation is where the antioxidants are. So remember the maxim from your school cafeteria days: Eat the rainbow— leafy greens, vivid fruit such as blueberries, carrots, etc. You’ll get your variety of antioxidants (which, while different, all work toward similar ends) and all of the other nutrients these foods have, to boot. “In general, the food industry is so overhyped,” Weeks says. “It’s so funny how diets can be spun and repackaged in new fancy tinfoil and wrapping. … It’s about eating a balance of all the different food groups with a predominate focus on whole grains, fruits and vegetables.”

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Flipping for Burgers Up your grilling game this summer with five innovative burger recipes made from beef, black beans and everything in between



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22 real food fall 2019


hen the temperature soars and daylight stretches long into evening, a backyard cookout presents the perfect dinner solution. It keeps us out of the hot kitchen, it means fewer pots and pans, and the casual

outdoor setting puts everyone at ease. But just because we’re cooking outdoors doesn’t mean we have to leave our culinary creativity inside the kitchen. On the contrary! Instead of the usual hot dogs and hamburgers that get tossed on grills all summer long, here are five new burger recipes to ramp up your cooking routines and give even more reason to love summer.

Steakhouse Blue Cheese Burgers with Pickled Red Onions MAKES 6 BURGERS

What’s better than a thick, juicy cheeseburger? How about a blue cheese-stuffed burger that’s seasoned with a jolt of steak sauce and topped with zesty pickled red onion? These bodacious burgers would be at home on a fancy steakhouse menu, but they are straightforward enough for a casual cookout. or the Pickled Onion F 1/2 cup vinegar, white or apple cider 1/2 cup water 11/2 teaspoons sugar 11/2 teaspoons salt 1 large red onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings For the Blue Cheese Filling 2 ounces (about 1/2 cup) blue cheese, crumbled 1 tablespoon butter, softened, plus more for the rolls For the Burgers 2 pounds ground chuck, preferably 80% lean 1 tablespoon steak sauce, such as A1, or Worcestershire 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste 6 hamburger rolls, preferably potato or sesame rolls spinach leaves steak sauce, ketchup and/or mustard (optional) 1. Make the Pickled Onion: In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Stir to dissolve. Add the onion and let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature. The onion can be covered and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. 2. Make the Blue Cheese Filling: In a small bowl, combine the blue cheese and butter. Mix with a fork until well combined. Set aside. 3. Break the ground beef into 1- to 2-inch bits and drop into a mixing bowl. Season with steak sauce, salt and pepper. Mix gently to incorporate the seasonings without compressing the meat. Divide into 6 equal lumps, and then divide each portion again in half, so you have a total of 12 small portions. Lightly shape each into a thin patty, about 41/2 inches across. Divide the cheese

filling evenly among 6 of the patties, flattening and centering the cheese on each so it doesn’t reach the edges. Top each with another patty, pinching to firmly seal the edges, and round the patties to make 6 evenly shaped burgers, no more than 11/4-inches thick. Refrigerate the burgers for at least 20 minutes, and up to 4 hours. 4. Heat a grill to medium-hot. Arrange the burgers on the grill and cook, flipping several times, until the burgers are done to your liking, about 6 to 10 minutes. Just before the burgers are ready, toast the rolls on the grill. 5. Butter the rolls and top with the burgers, pickled onions and a handful of spinach, adding any optional condiments. Cook’s Notes: • For the juiciest and tastiest burgers, shop for freshly ground chuck, preferably 80% lean. • Buttering the rolls is a steakhouse secret. Even a thin smear of butter amplifies the beefy taste, making the burgers even more satisfying. • If you don’t have time to make the pickled onion, make grilled onion instead. Cut the onion into 1/4-inch thick rings, brush with oil, and grill the rings alongside the burgers until tender. • For variations on the theme, substitute shredded cheddar, pepper Jack, provolone or Swiss for the blue cheese. Don’t omit the butter. • The longer you grill the burgers, the more cheese stuffing melts out, so if you prefer your burgers medium-well (or well-done), you may not see the cheese when you bite into the burger. You will, however, taste it; even if the cheese melts away, plenty of flavor remains. • The recommended internal temperatures for burger doneness are 125°F for rare, 135°F for medium-rare, 145°F for medium and 155°F for medium-well.

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Ginger-Scallion Salmon Burgers MAKES 6 BURGERS

The key to these moist, flavor-packed burgers is grinding a portion of salmon to create a binder that holds together the flavorings and the rest of the coarsely chopped fish. This step avoids the need for added fillers (like breadcrumbs and eggs) that can weigh down other versions. If you want to keep things extra light, serve the burgers on lettuce leaf wraps. For a more traditional presentation, fine-crumbed brioche-style rolls are ideal.

2 pounds salmon fillet, skin removed 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger 1 tablespoon minced jalapeño (no seeds) 4 scallions, green and white parts, minced 1 teaspoon freshly grated lime zest 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Bibb lettuce leaves or soft hamburger rolls thinly sliced cucumber and fresh cilantro sprigs, for topping pickled ginger (optional)

canola or peanut oil, for grilling For the Sauce 1/2 cup hoisin sauce 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons sriracha, or to taste 1. Cut the salmon into 1- to 2-inch chunks and put about one-third of it into a food processor. Turn on the machine and process—stopping to scrape down the sides as needed—until smooth and thick. Add the remaining salmon, along with the ginger, jalapeño, scallions, lime and salt, and pulse until the additional salmon is coarsely chopped and everything is well combined. Scrape into a bowl. 2. Divide the salmon mixture into 6 equal lumps and then shape into patties, no more than 1-inch thick. Arrange on a plate, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (and up to 4 hours). 3. Make the Sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together all the sauce ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until serving. 4. Heat a grill to medium-hot. Lightly brush the surface of the salmon burgers with oil and grill, flipping a few times, until cooked to your liking, 5 to 10 minutes. If using rolls, toast these on the grill as well. 5. Serve the burgers on lettuce wraps or toasted rolls, topping with the sauce, cucumber, cilantro and, if using, pickled ginger. Cook’s Notes: • If someone is available behind the fish counter, ask them to remove the skin for you. Otherwise, lay the fish on your cutting board and align a sharp, thin-bladed knife between the fillet and the skin; grab hold of the skin and tug the skin to keep it taut as you slide the knife to separate the fish. • Before cutting the fish into chunks, run a finger down the center line to make sure there are no tiny bones remaining. If you feel any bones, use a pair of tweezers or the edge of a knife to remove. • If you don’t have a food processor, in Step 1 use a large chef’s knife to chop one-third of the salmon as finely as possible to create almost a puree. Chop the remaining two-thirds into ¼-inch pieces and use a silicon spatula to blend the two together, along with the ginger, jalapeño, scallions, lime and salt and proceed with recipe. • Salmon burgers will dry out if overcooked and are best left a little pink inside. An internal temperature of 130°F will give you a medium burger and 140°F will be medium-well.

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TIPS FOR SHAPING BURGERS • The goal when seasoning and shaping ground meat into burgers is to handle the meat gently and deftly without compressing since too much handling will result in tough, dry burgers. • Your hands make the best tools—just remember to thoroughly wash them before and after. Plus, wetting your hands before shaping burgers helps prevent the meat from sticking to them. • An easy way to create equal-sized burgers is to eyeball even portions and arrange them, before shaping, on a large plate. This way you can add or remove a little here and there until you have equal-size lumps to start with. • The ideal burger thickness is 3/4-inch thick; this allows it to sear on the outside while remaining juicy on the inside. • To avoid the tendency for burgers to puff up in the middle as they cook, make a small depression in the center of each patty just before grilling (with the exception of the cheese-stuffed burger).



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Turkey, Bacon and Cheddar Burgers MAKES 6 BURGERS

A bit of cottage cheese adds the richness and creaminess needed to transform lean ground turkey into five-star burgers that will satisfy any appetite. Crisp bacon, melted cheddar and a slather of special sauce don’t hurt either. 1 cup cottage cheese, preferably whole milk 2 pounds lean ground turkey 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3/4 teaspoon dried thyme freshly ground black pepper, to taste canola or peanut oil, for grilling For the Sauce: 1/2 cup mayonnaise 3 tablespoons dill relish 1 tablespoon ketchup 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard dash vinegar or lemon juice, to taste 6 slices cheddar cheese 6 slices bacon, cooked crisp and cut in half crosswise 6 soft hamburger rolls, preferably sesame or whole grain ripe tomato slices, lettuce leaves, pickles (optional) 1. Put the cottage cheese in a mixing bowl, and mash with a fork to create very fine curds. Add the turkey, breaking it into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Add the mustard, salt, thyme and pepper, and mix to incorporate without compressing the meat. Divide into 6 equal lumps, and shape into patties, each about 41/2 inches across and 3/4 inch thick. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. 2. Make the Sauce: Whisk together all the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 days. 3. Heat a grill to medium hot. Lightly coat the surface of the burgers with oil and grill, flipping 2 or 3 times, until almost cooked through, about 14 minutes. Top each with cheese, and continue cooking until the cheese is just melted, an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Toast the hamburger rolls on the grill. 4. Smear both inner sides of the rolls with sauce. Arrange burgers on the rolls, top with bacon and any additional toppings. Cook’s Notes: • Offer any extra sauce at the table or save it to dress up your next turkey or chicken sandwich. • For a fresh take on a Tex-Mex turkey burger, substitute chili powder for dried thyme, swap in chipotle mayonnaise for the sauce, and add ripe avocado to your selection of toppings. • Turkey burgers should be cooked all the way through. If you use an instant-read thermometer, the internal temperature should be 160°F.

GRILLING TIPS • Always clean your grill grates thoroughly before grilling. • It’s helpful to set up dual zones on your grill (one medium-hot for grilling, one less hot side where you can toast the buns or move the burgers if the grill flares up). With charcoal, arrange the coals so most of the heat is concentrated on one side; for a gas grill, adjust the two sides accordingly. • Kettle style grills (i.e. Weber models) work best if you close the lid during grilling. • Don’t flip burgers any more than you have to (usually 2 to 3 times). Each time you flip, you release juices and risk having the burger fall apart. • Don’t press down on the burgers as they cook; this only dries them out. • Veggie, fish and turkey burgers are more delicate than beef and lamb burgers and require a little more care when flipping. A flat stainless-steel grill basket can provide extra insurance against sticking; just be sure it’s clean and hot before adding the burgers. • Burgers are close to done with they start to feel firm when pressed. To check, either discretely cut into a burger and peek to see that it’s done to your liking, or use an instant-read thermometer, inserting the probe horizontally through the side of the burger, not through the top. • When making a cheeseburger, add the cheese during the last 2 minutes of grilling, allowing it to soften but not completely melt and slide off the burger. • If the burgers need to wait a few minutes before serving, transfer them to a platter and tent with foil. Don’t arrange them on the rolls until serving, as they will only make the rolls soggy.

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Turkish-Spiced Lamb Burgers with Grilled Peppers and Creamy Feta MAKES 6 BURGERS

A trio of warming spices—paprika, cumin and cinnamon—and a creamy feta topping give these tender lamb burgers a deliciously Eastern Mediterranean vibe. Stick with that theme and serve them tucked into pita pockets or go for standard hamburger rolls. 2 pounds ground lamb 11/2 teaspoons paprika, hot or sweet 11/2 teaspoons ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon kosher salt plus more to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the Feta Sauce 6 ounces feta cheese 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves (optional)

2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded and each cut into 6 planks 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

6 pita rounds or hamburger rolls spicy lettuces, such as a spring or mesclun mix

1. Break the ground lamb into 1- to 2-inch bits and drop into a mixing bowl. Season with paprika, cumin, cinnamon, 1 teaspoon salt and several grinds of black pepper. Combine gently to incorporate the seasonings without compressing the meat. Divide into 6 equal lumps, and then shape into 6 patties, each about 41/2 inches across and 3/4 inch thick. For the best flavor, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before cooking. 2. Make the Feta Sauce: Break the feta into large chunks and drop into a food processor. Pulse a few times until crumbly. Add the remaining ingredients and continue to pulse until the mixture is smooth. Scrape into a small bowl. If not using right away, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. 3. Heat a grill to medium hot. Lightly coat the surface of the red pepper with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Place the peppers skin-side down on the grill, and cook, flipping 2 or 3 times, until nicely charred and beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Move the peppers to the perimeter of the grill to keep warm. 4. Grill the burgers, flipping a few times, until cooked to your liking, about 12 to 16 minutes total. (Lamb burgers are best cooked to medium or medium-well.) For pitas, cut off the top section of each to make an opening. If using rolls, toast them on the grill. 5. Smear the inside of the pita (or on both inner sides of the rolls) with Feta Sauce. Divide the burgers and grilled peppers among the pitas (or rolls). Top with a handful of greens and serve. Cook’s Notes: • For best tasting feta, shop for a chunk rather than crumbles. Sheep and goat’s milk varieties will provide an even more distinctive taste. • In place of the red peppers, grill up a bag of mini sweet pepper medley. Stem and seed the mini peppers as directed but cut each in half lengthwise. Expect them to grill more quickly. • For the best tasting burgers, season and shape the ground lamb at least 2 hours ahead. This gives the spices a chance to permeate the meat. • This recipe works equally well for ground beef; choose 80% lean for best flavor. • The recommended internal temperature for lamb burger doneness is 145°F for medium or 155°F for medium-well.

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THE RIGHT ROLLS When choosing rolls for your burgers, consider their size, texture and taste. • Size: You want a roll that’s large enough to hold the burger and all the fixings but one that doesn’t dwarf the burger (many so-called bulky rolls are just that— too bulky). • Texture: The roll should be tender enough that you can bite easily into the roll and the burger (stay away from overly chewy or crusty hearth-baked rolls). For extra-juicy burgers (like the stuffed burger and the turkey burger), a fluffy roll that can soak up juices is ideal. • Taste: A burger roll should be a backdrop, complementing the taste of the burger and any toppings without competing. • Favorite choices: Soft potato rolls, standard sesame-topped hamburger buns and English muffins. Specialty rolls can be fun, too, or skip the roll and use a lettuce wrap for a refreshing alternative.


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Black Bean and Mushroom Burgers with Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise MAKES 4 BURGERS

Creating a homemade bean and veggie burger that is both sturdy enough for the grill and loaded with flavor requires some advance prep work, but the results are well worth it. Roasting and cooling the vegetables before blending removes excess moisture and adds an extra depth of flavor. Toasted walnuts and grated Parmesan contribute an added layer of umami—so much that no one will miss the meat. 3. Combine the walnuts and panko in a food processor. Pulse on and off to grind into a coarse paste. Add the cooled mushrooms, the rice, Parmesan and seasonings. Pulse to combine. Add the beans and carrot, and pulse to create a cohesive mixture—there should be bits of visible black beans. Scrape into a mixing bowl and taste, adjusting the seasoning to taste. 4. Divide the mixture into 4 equal lumps, and then shape into 1-inch thick patties. Arrange on a plate, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (and up to 2 days). 5. Prepare the Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Refrigerate for up to 1 hour. 6. Heat a grill to medium hot. Lightly coat each burger with oil, and grill, flipping 2 or 3 times, until well seared and heated through, 8 to 10 minutes total. 7. Serve the burgers on sandwich thins or burger rolls, topped with tomato, arugula and Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise.

8 ounces mushrooms, button or cremini, trimmed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for grilling 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed 1/2 cup shredded carrot 1 cup walnuts (about 3 ounces), lightly toasted 1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs 1 cup cooked brown rice 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, hot or sweet freshly ground black pepper For the Basil-Garlic Mayonnaise 1/3 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste salt and pepper, to taste 4 sandwich thins or ciabatta rolls ripe tomato slices and arugula


1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Slice the mushrooms about 1/4-inch thick and pile them onto a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil, toss to combine, and spread into an even layer. Bake, stirring with a spatula about halfway through, until brown in spots and nearly dry, about 30 minutes. Let cool. 2. Meanwhile, combine the beans and carrot on another baking sheet. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to combine and spread into an even layer. Bake, stirring once halfway through, until dry and a good portion of the beans have burst open, about 15 minutes. Let cool.



Cook’s Notes: • Veggie burgers are higher in carbs than all-meat burgers, so it’s best to serve them on lower carb rolls or bread, such as sandwich thins or airy ciabatta rolls. • If the walnuts aren’t already toasted, toast them in the oven at 350°F (before roasting the vegetables); they will take about 8 minutes. Be sure they are fully cooled before grinding. • Since all the ingredients are essentially precooked, the objective when grilling is to merely brown the outside and heat the inside. • The burgers can be made ahead, tightly wrapped and frozen for up to 2 months. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator before grilling, or add a few minutes to the grill time. 




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A Different Side of Summer

Switch up your side dishes and bring more flavor, texture and color to the table BY ROBIN ASBELL


e all know you can grill a steak with the best of them. But how is your side dish game? Have you been serving the same old salads for years? There is more to life than basic potato

salad and steamed vegetables. It’s time to freshen up your repertoire with a few new offerings and show a different side to summer. Whether you are making a dish to serve with burgers on a weeknight or taking a contribution to a picnic or party, the sides are where you can jazz things up and add flavors, colors and textures to the meal. The sides are also where the vegetables, fruits and grains are represented, so you’re doing everyone a favor by enticing them to eat more plants. If you’re still in love with the classics, keep their same spirit but shake them up. Take potato salad. Mayonnaise is nice, but why not dress those tender potatoes with savory, herby pesto instead? For a twist on pasta salad, you’ll find that Creamy Cavatappi with Veggies goes well with so many meals, it will become a regular in your rotation—you can also make it a main dish with the option to add chicken. If fruit salad is your go-to, jazz it up with Cantaloupe Caprese on a Stick. Skewers of melon balls, mozzarella balls and sweet basil leaves make an irresistible picnic treat. Try grain salads such as this easy Lemony Quinoa Kale Salad, plus get a side lesson in how to tenderize shredded kale in a tangy dressing. If you are making a Mexican meal, you can’t go wrong with a bright yellow Elotes Rice Salad, which puts the sweet corn of the season on display. Slide in a fun side with Zucchini Stuffed with Cheesy Rice, a pretty presentation that will have the kids—and grownups—eating their veggies and loving it.

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Lemony Quinoa Kale Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Cavatappi with Creamy Chevre and Veggies MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Instead of making a sauce and then adding cheese, this dish has cheese pureed into a light, tangy yogurt sauce. Creamy chevre and yogurt combine with healthy olive oil for a flavorful sauce that isn’t too heavy or rich for summertime. If you are cooking for people who don’t love goat cheese, you can always substitute cream cheese for a milder taste.

1 pound cavatappi or spiral pasta 1 large carrot, shredded 6 cups baby spinach, chopped (about 6 ounces) 1/2 cup frozen peas 2 ounces chevre cheese 1/2 cup Greek yogurt 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest 8 ounces roasted chicken breast (optional)

1. Put a large pot of salted water on the stove over high heat for cooking the pasta. Prep the carrots, keeping them separate, chop spinach and thaw peas and reserve. When the water boils, cook the pasta according to package directions with the carrot, about 10 minutes. While the pasta and carrot cook, place the spinach and peas in a large colander and place it in the sink. 2. While the pasta cooks, place the chevre or cream cheese in a food processor and process until smooth, scraping and repeating if necessary. Add the yogurt and oil and process until smooth and well mixed. Add the salt and lemon zest and process to mix. 3. When the pasta is done, pour the boiling water, pasta and carrots over the spinach and peas in the colander, draining the hot pasta and carrots on top of them. Shake the colander to drain as much water as possible. Return pasta and vegetables to the pot. 4. Scrape the contents of the processor over the pasta and vegetables in the pot, and turn and toss to coat evenly. 5. Serve at room temperature or chilled. If desired, shred 8 ounces roasted chicken breast and toss with the pasta. It will keep for 4 days, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.

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Quinoa cooks in just 15 minutes, which is plenty of time to prep the kale and dressing to finish the dish. The secret to making delicious kale is not cooking it, but “massaging” it with an acidic dressing so that the sturdy structure of the leaves is broken down and the dressing seeps into the cells of the leaves. You can boost the protein in this dish and make it a vegetarian main course by adding a can of black beans or chickpeas. 1 cup quinoa 11/2 cups water 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 cups chopped kale, packed, about half a bunch 1/4 cup slivered red onions 3 large tomatoes, cubed canned black beans or chickpeas (optional) 1. In a small pot over high heat, bring water to a boil, then stir in the quinoa. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook for 15 minutes until all the liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and uncover, fluff and let cool. 2. In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, sugar and salt and whisk to mix. Add the kale and toss, then knead and massage with your fingers for 1 or 2 minutes to soften and break down the kale in the dressing. Let stand while the quinoa cools, then add the onion, tomatoes and cooled quinoa and toss to mix. Serve immediately or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Cheesy Stuffed Zucchini MAKES 4 TO 8 SERVINGS

With zucchini in season, summer is a good time to feature this prolific squash with a delectable stuffing. The zucchini only need to be steamed for a few minutes to make them tender and sweet, then drained to draw out excess moisture. A bountiful filling of cheesy rice will make sure everyone puts one on their plate.

4 (8-ounce) zucchini, about 8 inches long 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 large shallot, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 2 cups vegetable stock 1 cup basmati rice 1 cup (4 ounces) shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese 1/4 cup chopped parsley

1. Set up a collapsible steamer in a wide Dutch oven so that it opens to make a flat surface. Pour in water so that it doesn’t come up over the steamer. 2. Cut each zucchini in half lengthwise, leaving the stem on. Use a small spoon to scoop out the seeds and form a smooth cavity in each zucchini. 3. Place the zucchini in the steamer, cut sides down, stacking them as if you were building a log cabin, so their flesh is exposed to the steam. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes. While the zucchini steam, spread a double layer of kitchen towels on the counter. When the zucchini are tender, transfer them, cut side down, to the towel in a single layer. Allow them to cool and drain while you cook the rice. 4. In a 2-quart pot, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the shallot. Stir for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to mediumlow. Cook, stirring, for about 4 minutes, then add the garlic and thyme and cook for 2 more minutes. 5. Add the salt, pepper and vegetable stock and raise the heat to high. Bring to a boil. Add the basmati rice, return to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 15 minutes. When all the liquids are absorbed, take the rice off the heat and let cool completely. 6. Stir the shredded cheese and parsley into the cooled rice. Preheat the oven to 375°F. 7. Place the cooled zucchini, cut side up, on a sheet pan with a rim. It’s fine if they are touching. Carefully spoon the rice mixture into the cavity of each zucchini, mounding it up to make a rounded shape. Tap gently with the back of the spoon to pack the rice in and smooth the tops. When all the zucchinis are filled, bake for 15 minutes, until the zucchinis are heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve hot.

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Elotes Rice Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Elotes is the addictive street-food sweet corn sold in Mexico that is growing in popularity in the U.S. Grilled or steamed corn on the cob is slathered with lime and mayonnaise, then sprinkled with chili powder and crumbled fresh cheese. This salad puts the flavors of elotes and yellow rice in one dish. If you are grilling in the days before making this salad, grill 4 extra ears of corn on the cob, and use the kernels in this salad for a slightly smoky, charred taste. 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 small shallot, minced 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 1 cup basmati rice 11/2 cups water 1/2 teaspoon salt 4 ears corn on the cob, to make 3 cups kernels (or leftover grilled corn) 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/2 teaspoon chili powder, plus more for garnish 2 scallions, chopped 1 large red bell pepper, chopped 1 cup (4 ounces) cotija cheese, crumbled 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves 1. In a medium saucepan, warm half of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and stir until softened, about 1 minute, then add turmeric and stir for 1 minute. Add the rice and stir until it is hot and well coated with oil. Add the water and salt and increase the heat to bring to a boil, then reduce to low, cover and cook for about 15 minutes. When all the water is absorbed, remove the rice from the heat and let stand for at least 5 minutes before uncovering and letting cool completely. Reserve. 2. If using grilled corn, just cut the corn from the cobs. To cook raw corn, cut the corn from the cobs, then drizzle the remaining olive oil in a large skillet and place it over medium-high heat. When hot, add the corn and sautĂŠ for about 3 minutes, until lightly browned and crisp-tender. Let cool completely. 3. When the corn has cooled, transfer to a large bowl and add the mayonnaise, lime and chili powder and stir to mix. Stir in scallions, red pepper and cotija cheese, then add the cooled rice and fold into the mixture. 4. Serve in a bowl, sprinkled with cilantro and, if desired, more chili powder. If not serving immediately, cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

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Pesto Potato Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Summer is the best time to whip up a batch of pesto: Basil is at its peak and its prices are low. In its birthplace of Genoa, Italy, pesto is often served with potatoes and pasta, so why not use it to dress cold potatoes? This side can serve more like a main dish with the optional addition of grilled shrimp.

Cantaloupe Caprese on a Stick MAKES 12 SKEWERS

The classic flavors of a Caprese salad are just as delectable with juicy cantaloupe in place of tomatoes. Shaking it up a little with the fruity melon balls, skewered on sticks, will make sure everyone wants one—or two. Boiling balsamic vinegar for about 10 minutes allows you to create a simple, syrupy glaze to drizzle over the skewers for a tangysweet finish. 1 cup balsamic vinegar 12 (6-inch) wooden skewers 3 pounds cantaloupe 1 pound fresh mozzarella balls (1-inch wide “cherry size”) 48 fresh basil leaves

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes 1 cup fresh basil 1 cup fresh parsley 2 cloves garlic, sliced 1/4 cup pine nuts

1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 large tomatoes, chopped 1 pound large shrimp, optional

1. Place the whole potatoes in a large pot. Add cool water to cover by 1 inch, and place over high heat. Bring to a boil and cook for about 20 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes. When the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, drain and let cool. When cool, cut in cubes and place in a large bowl. 2. While the potatoes cook, place the basil, parsley, garlic, pine nuts, salt and Parmesan cheese in a food processor or blender. Process to make a smooth paste, scraping down as necessary. Add the olive oil and process to make a smooth pesto. 3. Scrape the pesto into the bowl with the potatoes and toss gently to coat the potatoes evenly. Serve topped with chopped tomatoes. 4. If serving with shrimp, peel and devein shrimp, then either grill or sauté until pink. Arrange the shrimp on top of the potato salad. Cook’s Note: For additional ideas, vinaigrettes and other dressings we usually pour over greens are good on potatoes, too. 


1. Place the balsamic vinegar in a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, reduce to a vigorous simmer and cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. 2. Make 36 melon balls. On each skewer, thread 1 cantaloupe ball, 1 basil leaf and 1 ball of mozzarella, and repeat until each skewer has 3 melon balls and 2 mozzarella balls, with a total of 4 basil leaves between them. Place on a platter or in a storage tub. Can be tightly covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. 3. Just before serving, drizzle the skewers with the balsamic reduction and serve immediately.







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38 real food summer 2020

Catch of the Day Enjoy smooth sailing with recipes, tips and techniques for a variety of seafood RECIPES BY BARTON SEAVER


here is a wealth of delicious and healthy food from the waters of the world. Oftentimes, people wonder how best to prepare seafood or are

in a rut with the same-old method. To remedy the situation, seafood expert Barton Seaver dedicated his new 900-recipe cookbook, “The Joy of Seafood,” to all the cooks who have ever said, “I’d love to eat more seafood, but I don’t know how to cook it.” While seafood’s delicate flavors and textures shine when they are given a simple platform, Seaver says there is plenty of leeway to have some fun combining exciting flavors that add spice and contrast to the final dish. A drizzle of vinaigrette over fish as soon as it comes out of the pan, for example, is a surefire way to turn the usual into something compelling. In the following recipes from his book, the same dressing is used in tacos for a splash of flavor with cod. Halibut is braised in a spiced coconut broth, grilled salmon keeps it simple yet unexpected, clams make a savory sauce for linguine, and shrimp is jazzed up New Orleans style. Plus, catch some of Seaver’s fun facts about each of these seafood varieties in our “Fish School” callouts as you explore these treasures of the sea. —Mary Subialka

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40 real food summer 2020

New Orleans BBQ Shrimp

Cod Tacos



2 tablespoons Blackening Spice Mix (see recipe below) 3 pounds shrimp, head on and unpeeled, if available/desired salt 1 lemon, halved 12 tablespoons butter, divided 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1 cup white wine 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 bay leaves 4 sprigs fresh tarragon 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley crusty bread, for serving

Orange-Coriander Vinaigrette or Lemon-Chile-Mint Dressing (see recipes below) Pico de Gallo (see recipe below) or store-bought salsa 1 pound cod fillets, skin off salt sour cream, for serving 2 avocados, sliced 1/2 cup cilantro, leaves picked 1/4 head cabbage, thinly sliced, or coleslaw 16 corn tortillas

1. Season the shrimp lightly with salt. Heat a large heavy skillet over high heat until smoking hot, then add the lemon halves, cut sides down, and shrimp to the dry pan. Cook for 1 minute on each side, then remove. Allow the pan to cool down, then add 8 tablespoons of the butter, the Blackening Spice Mix and garlic. Cook over medium heat until the butter is melted. 2. Add the white wine, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, bay leaves and tarragon and bring to a boil. Return the shrimp to the pan and cook until they are done, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and parsley and stir to combine. Serve immediately with lemon halves and crusty bread (and plenty of napkins). For the Blackening Spice Mix Combine 2 tablespoons salt, 11/2 tablespoons smoked sweet paprika, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, 1 tablespoon garlic powder, 1 tablespoon onion powder, 2 teaspoons mustard powder, 1 teaspoon chili powder and 1 teaspoon ground allspice in a small bowl. It will keep tightly sealed in a container for 6 months.

fish school: SHRIMP Shrimp’s popularity is due to its incredible versatility. Its flavor melds into dishes better than just about any other seafood. Shrimp works well with most seasonings, but its incredible sweetness takes especially to citrus, bold spices and fiery heat. Shrimp is sold by size and measured by how many make up a pound. Small are labeled as 21-25 count, medium are 16-20 count, and large are 10-15 count.

fish school: COD Cod—like the other flaky white fish that share its culinary category—are sedentary, so their flesh is very lean. When cooked, cod has a dense texture and a large flake, which allows it to hold on to its moisture a bit better than smaller flaked white fish, like haddock. In terms of flavor, cod is mild with a slightly sour note. A sprinkling of kosher salt 20 minutes before cooking helps bring out cod’s nuanced flavors and firm up its flesh for cooking.

1. Season the fish with salt and let it rest for 20 minutes. 2. Prepare a charcoal grill with a medium fire, concentrating the hot coals on one side of the kettle. (See Cook’s Notes on page 45 if using a gas grill.) 3. Place the fish on the grill over the hot coals. Cook about 3 to 4 minutes. Lift the entire grill grate and rotate it so the fish rests opposite the hot coals. Cover the grill and continue to cook over this indirect heat until the fish is done, about another few minutes until the flesh flakes under gentle pressure from your thumb. 4. Flake the fish into bite-size pieces and toss with the vinaigrette or dressing. 5. Set out bowls of Pico de Gallo (or salsa), sour cream, avocado, cilantro and shredded cabbage. 6. Place the tortillas in a dry heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat and cook until toasted yet pliable. Keep them warm in a kitchen towel. 7. For each taco, stack two tortillas together. Let everyone build their own tacos just the way they like. Cook’s Note: You can also bake, broil or poach the fish for the tacos if you prefer; continue with step 4. For the Orange-Coriander Vinaigrette Combine 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 zested and juiced orange, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds, and salt to taste and whisk vigorously. Let the mixture rest for 10 minutes before using. For the Lemon-Chile-Mint Dressing Zest and juice 1 lemon. Soak 1 thinly sliced serrano chili pepper in the juice, 4 tablespoons vegetable oil, and salt to taste for 10 minutes. Thinly slice the leaves from 5 fresh mint sprigs. Chop fresh parsley for 2 tablespoons and add with the mint and lemon zest to the dressing just before using. For the Pico de Gallo Combine 1 small finely diced onion, 1-2 grated hot chili peppers (such as Fresno, jalapeño or serrano), juice from 1 lime and salt to taste in a bowl and let the mixture rest for 10 minutes. Dice 4 ripe plum tomatoes. Chop fresh cilantro for 1/4 cup. Add tomatoes and cilantro to the other ingredients in the bowl and toss to combine. (Makes 1 cup)

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Linguine with Clam Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 pound linguine, cooked according to package instructions, 1/2 cup cooking liquid reserved 12 large hard-shell clams, scrubbed 2 cups white wine 6 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup flour couple dashes Worcestershire sauce

1 bay leaf pinch ground mace 11/2 ounces Amontillado or cooking sherry or Rainwater Madeira 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as chervil, chives or tarragon

fish school: CLAMS Clams are best distinguished based on the shape and length of their shells. The majority of clams you’ll find at market year round are hard-shell varieties because they have a longer shelf life than soft-shell clams. Also known as quahogs, familiar names include East Coast littlenecks, West Coast butter clams, Topneck and Chowders, which are the largest. A clam shell should be tightly closed, an indicator that it is still fresh.

1. In a pot over medium-high heat, add the clams and the wine. Cover the pot and bring to a boil, cooking until the clams open. Remove the clams from their shells, cut into dime-size pieces, and reserve. Strain the broth into a clear container, discard the solids and wipe out the pot. Let the broth sit undisturbed for 5 minutes. Slowly decant the broth back into the pot and leave any grit in the bottom of the container. You should have about 3 cups of broth. Add water to equal 3 cups, if needed. 2. In a wide skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour until it forms a loose paste. Add the clam broth, a couple of dashes of Worcestershire sauce, the bay leaf, a pinch of mace and the sherry. Simmer, stirring constantly, until it is slightly thickened. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks and whisk in 1/4 cup of the clam sauce. Add the yolk mixture to the pot with the clam sauce and simmer over very low heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thickened, 2 to 4 minutes. 3. Add the pasta, remaining pasta water, clam pieces and herbs and simmer until the pasta is warmed and the liquid coats the pasta. Variation: Use chopped clams instead of fresh. Strain 2 cups of chopped clams, reserving their liquor. Add as much white wine or water as needed to the clam liquor to equal 3 cups and proceed with the recipe.

Braised Halibut in Spiced Coconut Broth MAKES 4 SERVINGS, PHOTO ON PAGE 2

4 halibut portions (4-6 ounces each), skin off salt 3 tablespoons peanut oil, divided 1 lime, cut into quarters 1 red onion, cut into wedges 1 (1-inch) knob ginger, sliced 1 garlic clove, sliced

1/4 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1/4 cup slivered almonds 1/2 pound carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 (14-ounce) cans unsweetened coconut milk 1 sprig fresh basil 2 scallions, sliced on the bias seared limes for garnish rice for serving (optional)

1. Season the fish with salt and let it rest for 20 minutes. 2. In a large sauté pan over high heat, warm 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the lime and onion and cook undisturbed until the onion gets a nice char, almost burned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the onion and lime from the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, ginger, garlic, mushrooms, almonds and carrots. Sauté until the almonds are toasted. 3. Nestle the onion and fish into the pan. Add coconut milk and basil. Cover, turn the heat to low, and cook until the fish is done, about 10 minutes. Discard the basil and ginger slices. Garnish with the scallions and seared limes. Serve with rice.

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fish school: HALIBUT The largest of the flatfish in both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, halibut can weigh as much as 700 pounds, though most harvested halibut typically weigh between 30 and 80 pounds. They feed on a wide variety of fish, lobsters and crabs, giving them a nuanced culinary character. The flavor is mild with a somewhat delicate sea-brine aroma that is punctuated with a fresh, bright, herbal smell. Halibut needs the addition of both sweet and sour flavor components to bring its personality into focus. The snowywhite flesh has beautiful, big flakes once cooked and presents beautifully.


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44 real food summer 2020

Grilled Salmon with Pernod and Herbs

Creamed Corn and Herb Croutons


Fresh corn is one of the great treats of the summer. This interpretation of creamed corn has just a touch of sour cream and butter added to it to accentuate the natural sweet creaminess of the corn kernels. Serve it with the Grilled Salmon with Pernod and Herbs.


1/4 cup Pernod or dry vermouth 1 shallot, finely diced 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup chopped fresh tarragon or parsley 1 tablespoon salt 4 salmon portions (4-6 ounces each), skin on 1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Combine the Pernod, shallot, olive oil, tarragon or parsley, and salt. Pour the mixture over the salmon and let it rest for 1 to 4 hours. 2. Prepare a charcoal grill with a medium fire, concentrating the hot coals on one side of the kettle. 3. Remove the fish from the marinade and place it skin side down on the grill over the hot coals. Cook until the skin begins to char, about 3 to 4 minutes. Lift the entire grill grate and rotate it so the fish rests opposite the hot coals. Pour any remaining marinade over the fish. Cover the grill and continue to cook over this indirect heat until the fish is done, about 5 to 8 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges. Cook’s Note: If using a gas grill, preheat all burners to medium. Place the seafood on one side of the hot grates. Once it begins to char around the edges, turn off the burner directly under the fish. Pour any remaining marinade over the fish and cover the grill to finish cooking.

fish school: SALMON


Salmon has become ubiquitous, and many cooks might now overlook how dynamic an ingredient it is. It has a rich texture and a unique flavor that makes it a crowd-pleaser at home and a restaurant staple. When cooked, salmon has a somewhat nutty, buttery taste and the faint aroma of baked potato. When raw, fresh salmon has a cucumber scent and a very mild and nuanced flavor. Salmon’s flavor intensifies as it cooks, not reaching its potential until cooked at least to medium doneness.



2 tablespoons butter, divided 4 slices brioche bread or potato rolls, cut into 1/2-inch cubes salt, to taste 8 ears corn, shucked 1 small onion, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1/2 cup water, divided 2 teaspoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons sour cream 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Tabasco sauce, for serving 1. For the croutons, preheat the oven to 350°F. Melt 1/2 tablespoon of the butter in a medium ovenproof skillet and add the bread cubes. Toss to combine, then season to taste with salt. Place the skillet in the oven and toast the croutons until lightly brown and crunchy throughout. Remove from the oven and set aside. These can be made up to a few days ahead (store them in an airtight container), but their flavor is best the day they’re made. 2. For the corn, take the ears one at a time and, using a paring knife, cut off all the kernels, letting them drop into a large bowl. Scrape the cob with the knife so that the juice and little bits of corn fall into the bowl too. In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt the remaining 11/2 tablespoons butter and cook the onion and garlic until soft, then add the corn. Sauté for another minute, then add 1/4 cup of the water and season generously with salt. Allow to boil, as this will steam the corn and cook it. After a few minutes, combine the remaining 1/4 cup water with the cornstarch and add to the pan. This will thicken the juices immediately and create a creamy, rich sauce around the kernels. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream and parsley. Keep warm. 






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46 real food spring 2020

Hot Summer Entrees Cooking up fiery dishes is easy with so many chili varieties to choose from


ike any lover of spicy food will tell you, not all chili peppers are created equally. As one of the oldest

cultivated crops in the Americas, chili peppers have been a part of the human diet since approximately

7500 B.C., and the heat they bring to cuisine ranges from mild and sweet to dangerously hot and spicy. The human fascination with heat boils down to hormones. When you eat a chili, the pain receptors in your mouth, nose and stomach are alerted—these cells tell the brain to release endorphins into the body. Dan May, the author of the “Red Hot Cookbook,” says that this hormone release creates the thrill chili eaters love so much: “The rush of these natural painkillers often produces a feeling of great well-being, and it’s this sensation that frequent consumers of hot chilies can become addicted to.” As a bonus, chilies have dietary benefits, too. They are cholesterol free, low sodium, low calorie, and a good source of folic acid, potassium and vitamin E. Green chilies have about twice as much vitamin C in comparison to citrus fruit, and red chilies contain more vitamin A than carrots. When it comes to measuring heat, chili


peppers are rated on the internationally recognized Scoville Heat Units (SHU), so you can know what to expect before purchasing or consuming. From the mild piquillo (with no heat at all) and the jalapeño pepper (2,500 to 8,000 SHU) to the on-fire Scotch Bonnet (80,000 to 400,000 SHU), there is a pepper out there for everyone’s comfort level. To add some spice to your own summer menu, try these recipes from the “Red Hot Cookbook.” If you’re hosting a get-together, make sure to prepare your guests for the heat—and keep cold milk on hand if it gets to be a little too much. —Katie Ballalatak RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “THE RED HOT COOKBOOK: FABULOUSLY FIERY RECIPES FOR SPICY FOOD” BY DAN MAY © 2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOS BY PETER CASSIDY.

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Jerk Chicken with Lime & Caramelized Pineapple MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Jerk is a style of cooking native to the Caribbean island of Jamaica. Traditionally chicken or pork was marinated in a mixture of ground pimento berries and Scotch Bonnet chilies, then cooked and smoked in equal proportion over a fire of pimento wood to which the leaves and berries were also added. This gave the meat a very distinctive taste. In more modern times (and outside the Caribbean) the term “jerk” refers more to the marinade used to flavor and tenderize the meat prior to cooking. 4 free-range chicken breasts, skin on 2⁄3 cups Jamaican Jerk Marinade (See recipe at right) 1 lime, ½ thinly sliced and ½ freshly squeezed 1 tablespoon dark rum 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce 1 teaspoon dark brown sugar ½ pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into wedges peanut oil, for greasing (optional) Green Pepper, Tomato & Habanero Chilli Salsa, to serve (See recipe at right) rice salad, to serve 1. Put the chicken in a bowl and cover with the Jamaican Jerk Marinade. Make sure the chicken is thoroughly coated, then cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours; overnight is ideal. 2. Remove the chicken from the marinade (reserve the marinade). Gently lift the edge of the skin on each chicken breast, creating a small pocket against the flesh. Take 1 to 2 thin slices of lime (1 for a small piece of chicken and 2 for a large) and slide these under the skin. These will caramelize during cooking. 3. You can roast, griddle or grill the chicken. • If roasting: Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Put the chicken in a roasting dish. Spoon a few tablespoons of the marinade over the chicken. Roast in the preheated oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until fully cooked and the juices run clear. Baste the chicken with the marinade as it roasts. The chicken will become quite dark in places while cooking; this is normal, but if you wish to avoid it, cover the pan with foil for the first 25 minutes of cooking. • If cooking on a ridged stovetop grill pan: Heat the pan, adding a little peanut oil if you like. Once hot, sear the chicken on both sides, then lower the heat and cook for about 8 to 10 minutes each side. On the grill, over medium heat, the chicken should take about 10 minutes each side; the juices in the middle should run clear. • If barbecuing or griddling: Baste with the marinade several times during cooking. Please note that this marinade was in contact with uncooked chicken, so always allow 5 to 10 minutes between the last time you baste and the end of cooking to ensure the marinade itself is thoroughly cooked. 4. Mix the lime juice, rum, soy sauce and sugar in a bowl and add the pineapple wedges. Mix to coat thoroughly. Remove the wedges from this mixture, paint with a little peanut oil and place on a hot stovetop grill pan or on the barbecue to lightly and evenly char. 5. Serve the chicken with the caramelized pineapple, Green Pepper, Tomato & Habanero Chilli Salsa, and a rice salad.

48 real food summer 2020

Jamaican Jerk Marinade MAKES 1½ CUPS

This makes a lovely hot marinade! By a long and exhaustive process of elimination, I seem to find myself instinctively mistrusting people who tell me they can’t eat spicy food—as far as I have ever seen, it just does you good. This recipe is therefore something of a litmus test when inviting new friends around for dinner. I am not, of course, suggesting that you shouldn’t have friends who avoid spicy food, just that it’s probably best not to leave them alone with the single malt after dinner!



IF YOUR MOUTH IS ON FIRE: Drinking water to combat the heat will actually make it worse since capsaicin (the natural chemical compound that gives chilies their heat) is not soluable in water. Instead, try cold milk or yogurt. Swishing around a small amount of vegetable oil in your mouth and then spitting it out is also an effective remedy for a mouth on fire.

2 teaspoons ground allspice 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon sea salt 3 Scotch Bonnet chilies, roughly chopped (See Editor’s Note) 10 scallions, roughly chopped ½ onion, roughly chopped 4 garlic cloves, sliced 2 inches of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped small bunch of fresh thyme, chopped 4 fresh bay leaves, torn 2 tablespoons molasses 1⁄3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice 1⁄3 cup sunflower oil 1 tablespoon dark rum 1. Toast the ground allspice in a hot, dry, heavybased saucepan over medium heat. When it is ready, it will release a strong aroma. Grind the allspice and peppercorns with a pestle and mortar or a spice grinder until they become quite powdery. 2. Blend all the ingredients together in a food processor or with a hand blender to form a smooth, thick paste. Place in a clean, airtight container and refrigerate. The flavor of the marinade will improve over time and it will keep refrigerated for at least 4 weeks. Cook’s Notes: • This marinade is extremely hot and is great for chicken or pork. • If you do not have molasses on hand, use pure maple syrup. Editor’s Note: As a substitute for the Scotch Bonnet use habanero peppers, which also have a fruity character suited to the recipe. Jalapeño and serrano peppers are also great choices for a less heatintense dish.

Green Pepper, Tomato & Habanero Chilli Salsa MAKES 1 TO 2 CUPS

Real salsas are at their best just after they are made. Once you have experienced these feisty, zingy flavors, you will never go back to supermarket salsa! In addition to serving with the Jerk Chicken, eat in burritos or with a plate of nachos. 2 green bell peppers 1 (4-ounce) cucumber 4 plum tomatoes 2 shallots, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed handful of fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped 1 habanero or Scotch Bonnet chilli, very finely chopped grated zest and freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. Peel, deseed and dice the bell peppers, cucumber and plum tomatoes. 2. In a large bowl, combine the shallots, peppers, cucumber, tomatoes, garlic and parsley. Add the chilli, mix thoroughly and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Put the lime zest and juice, oil and vinegar into a small bowl, whisk together to make a dressing and add to the salsa. Toss together well and serve as soon as possible.

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Thai-spiced Rare Beef & Warm Rice Noodle Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS

One of the most enjoyable elements of drifting from a relatively solitary profession like photography to food has been the extraordinary social whirlwind that it seems to create. I have been fortunate to become friends with many astonishingly talented and generous folk over the past years and probably none more so than Owen Potts, who is the source of this recipe. Despite surrounding himself with perpetual frenetic activity, Owen is never too busy for a chat or a beer; or even to drive 300 miles to help spit-roast a pig … but that’s another story. This recipe makes a deliciously different and tasty oriental variation on a simple salad. 14-ounce fillet steak/beef tenderloin 1 tablespoon sunflower oil 2 ounces bamboo shoots, finely shredded 3 cups roasted salted peanuts, coarsely ground 2 ounces baby spinach leaves 1 pound thin rice noodles 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 8 scallions, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons Nuoc Cham (See recipe at right) 2 handfuls of fresh cilantro, finely chopped 2-3 baby zucchini (about 2 ounces), sliced into ribbons with a mandolin or potato slicer freshly squeezed juice of 1⁄2 lime a pinch of salt 2 thin red chilies, very thinly sliced For the Marinade 1 lemongrass stick, very finely chopped 2 teaspoons Thai red curry paste 2 teaspoons Thai fish sauce freshly squeezed juice of 1⁄2 lime 1. To make the marinade, mix the lemongrass, curry paste, fish sauce and lime juice, then place the beef in a shallow dish and cover with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for as long as possible (30 minutes is OK; overnight would be superb). 2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat and fry the marinated beef (reserving any remaining marinade) for 2 minutes each side. Remove from the pan, cover and set aside. In the same pan, quickly fry the bamboo shoots and peanuts with any remaining marinade. Add the spinach to the pan, immediately remove from the heat and cover with a lid to allow the spinach to wilt in the residual heat. 3. Blanch the noodles in a pan of boiling water for 5 minutes or until cooked. Drain and toss in the sesame oil, scallions, Nuoc Cham and half the coriander/cilantro. Meanwhile, thinly slice the beef and keep warm. 4. Dress the zucchini with the lime juice, the remaining coriander/cilantro and the salt. 5. To assemble, divide the noodles among 4 warm plates, then pile the remaining ingredients on top. Garnish with the sliced chilies. Cook’s Notes: • This recipe would also work extremely well with skinless chicken breast. Unlike the beef which can be served rare, it is important to ensure that the chicken is thoroughly cooked through before serving. • Recommended chilies: Thai hot or Bird’s Eye

50 real food summer 2020

Nuoc Cham, or Vietnamese-style Dipping Sauce MAKES 2/3 CUPS

Vietnamese cuisine is one of the most interesting and diverse in the world. Nuoc Cham and its variations are now perhaps Vietnam’s most universally available sauces and are added as required to virtually any savory dish. It is particularly good when drizzled over rice dishes or as a dip for vegetable tempura. 1 small lime 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 small hot green chilies, deseeded and finely chopped 4 teaspoons raw cane sugar ¼ cup Vietnamese-style fish sauce (See Cook’s Notes) 1. Squeeze the juice from the lime into a small bowl and set aside. 2. Scrape the pulp from the lime and grind it, along with the garlic and chilies, with a pestle and mortar to form a paste. If you find it difficult to get a paste, the ingredients could be briefly pulsed in a food processor. Add 1⁄3 cup water and the sugar to the bowl of lime juice and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Scrape the chilli paste into the bowl, add the fish sauce and mix well. Cook’s Notes: • Add the finely chopped chilies to the bowl at the end if you prefer not to grind them into the Nuoc Cham. • Vietnamese fish sauce is lighter in style than traditional “Nam Pla” Thai fish sauce. If you are unable to source this, Thai-style fish sauce still works well, but you may wish to reduce the quantity slightly or add to taste. • Recommended Chilies: Green Thai, green finger or small serrano

Spanish Tortilla with Roasted Piquillo Peppers MAKES 6 SERVINGS AS A STARTER, 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR 2 AS A GENEROUS MAIN DISH

Here are simple ingredients, carefully cooked with a little chili twist. It really is hard to go wrong with a tortilla. Eaten hot or cold, for lunch, supper, or even as a main meal, it is always welcome. It is worth remembering that this is not anything like a French omelet; it requires comparably long and gentle cooking. Like the Italian frittata, it is, however, always worth the wait.

3 tablespoons olive oil 2 large white onions, thinly sliced 2 large potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced 4 roasted piquillo peppers, roughly chopped (See Cook’s Notes) 6 eggs sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste green salad, to serve 1. Heat half the oil in a large, heavy-based (about 11-inch) frying pan, add the onions and potatoes and toss to coat. Season well and add the peppers. Turn down the heat and cover with a lid. Cook until the potatoes and onions are soft and translucent, about 20 minutes. Turn regularly to prevent too much browning. Once they are softened, remove them from the oil with a slotted spoon and set aside. SPANISH TORTILLA WITH 2. Lightly whisk the eggs in a large mixing bowl and add ROASTED PIQUILLO PEPPERS the onions and potatoes (they should still be hot so that the cooking process of the eggs begins as soon as they are mixed together). Season with salt and pepper. Add the rest of the oil to the pan and return to medium heat. Pour the egg mixture into the hot pan—it should fill it by about two-thirds. Turn the heat down to its lowest setting and cook for 20 to 25 minutes until there is very little liquid on the surface. 3. Take a plate that is slightly larger than the frying pan and place it upside down over the frying pan. Invert the plate and pan, tipping the tortilla out onto the plate. Put the pan back on the heat and gently slide the tortilla back into it. The cooked side is now facing upward and the uncooked side will now be on the heat. Cook for a further 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and let settle. (If you don’t feel up to flipping the tortilla over, you can broil the top for 2 to 3 minutes.) 4. Turn the tortilla out onto a clean plate and slice to serve. I must admit to loving a splash of hot sauce with mine. And it’s great with a green salad and a glass of good Spanish Rioja.


Cook’s Notes: • Fresh piquillo peppers come from northern Spain and are harvested in September and December. You can roast them (preferably over an open fire or barbecue) and peel them for this recipe. Ready-roasted peppers are available peeled and packed into delicious Spanish olive oil. • Substitute any hot sweet peppers for the piquillo. You can roast your own fresh red bell peppers, since they are similar to the piquillo’s low SHU rating. Or, choose jarred and canned roasted red peppers such as Mancini, Mt. Olive or similar brands. 






summer 2020 real food 51

Sumptuous Cooking Toni Tipton-Martin on the richness of African American cooking


52 real food summer 2020


hese days, it’s hard to get recognition for a cookbook if you aren’t already famous, whether via a restaurant kitchen or television. So when Toni Tipton-Martin’s latest book, “Jubilee,” started blowing up the internet last fall, it felt like a watershed moment. Bon Appétit listed it among the “fall cookbooks we’ve been waiting for all summer”; the New York Times decreed it one of “The Cookbooks You Need for 2020” and the New Yorker named it one of the “Best Cookbooks of 2019” (five months earlier, the New Yorker also listed Tipton-Martin’s previous book, “The Jemima Chronicles,” as one of the “Best Cookbooks of the Century So Far”). Since “Jubilee” hit the shelves late last autumn, Tipton-Martin has been in high demand on the food-talk circuit. After getting my hands on a copy, I added my name to the list. “Jubilee” lives up to its name: It’s a jubilant collection of recipes, wide-ranging, mouth-watering and intriguing. The most immediate appeal is in the photography—gorgeous, moody shots of delectablelooking dishes on warm, textured backgrounds, the plates, bowls, silver and linens creating a warm, lived-in atmosphere. What makes the book truly remarkable, however, is the light it shines on African Americans’ essential contributions to American cooking. Each recipe introduces a fascinating character (or six) who helped that dish become part of the canon of American cooking as we know it today. Tipton-Martin maps out the dish’s evolution with stories of the cooks who created it, history lessons and more. Baked beans, that New England classic? Scholars trace the tradition to New England sailors who picked up the idea from the Moors of North Africa. Macaroni and cheese, that childhood staple? It’s a French import by way of James Hemings, Thomas Jefferson’s enslaved chef de cuisine, who had trained in Paris. He prepared it for a White House dinner in 1802, and by 1845, it was considered classic enough to include in “The Virginia Housewife,” a then-essential guide to keeping house and home.


GIVING RISE TO OVERLOOKED VOICES Bringing these contributions to light has been a long process for Tipton-Martin, who came to study African American cooking through her own experiences as a black woman working in the food world. “I came to food journalism as a college student,” she tells me over the phone from her home in Baltimore. “I was interested in investigative journalism, but I had a professor who suggested writing features as a way to get into the Los Angeles Times.” Tipton-Martin, who grew up in Los Angeles, soon had a regular byline in its food pages, but a staff job eluded her. Instead of getting a job on the hard news desk, she was assigned the nutrition beat. Not even 25 years old and with no background in nutrition, she threw herself into the challenge, taking night-school courses in physiology and public health. She was soon garnering awards for her writing from the likes of the American Heart Association. Still, the paper refused to give her the coveted “Times Staff Writer” status. “It wasn’t until Ruth Reichl came along that life changed for me there,” Tipton-Martin says.

Reichl, who took over the paper’s food section with Laurie Ochoa in 1988, easily recalls Tipton-Martin’s talent and mettle. “She was one of the only young people on staff and one of the few African American writers in the food world,” Reichl says. “I thought, ‘They have her doing nutrition writing? What a wasted resource!’ ” One of the first stories Tipton-Martin did for Reichl was a profile of a single mother on food stamps. “We had to set up a 501(c) after that story came out,” Reichl says; one local celebrity contacted the paper in order to buy the mother a phone and pay for service for a year. With Reichl’s continued encouragement, Tipton-Martin blossomed, finding her own voice and an appreciation for storytelling. Tipton-Martin went on to Cleveland’s Plain Dealer, becoming the first African American woman to be food editor at a major U.S. newspaper. She was also one of the founders of the Southern Foodways Alliance as well as Foodways Texas, both organizations dedicated to documenting, preserving and promoting local foods and food cultures. She has been to the White House twice as a guest of Michelle Obama for her outreach to help families live healthier lives. Yet, she says, she felt like something was missing. “I never felt connected,” she recalls. “I wasn’t sure what it was, what that sense of loss was I was feeling.”

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“This frees everyone from the boundaries that limit notions of African American cooking to survival.” —Toni Tipton-Martin


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She eventually connected that loss to the lack of people like her in the American food story. As she points out in “Jubilee,” the conversation around African American cuisine tends to be confined to stories about poverty and survival. There are few depictions of the black family life she grew up with—in a tree-lined neighborhood of L.A. where her mom tended a lavish garden—or the one she had made for her own four kids, where meals were as varied and international as the city around them. Tipton-Martin thought of the concept sankofa, a Ghanaian word she translates as “go back and get it,” or “to reach back,” which is essentially to look to the people who came before you. “The concept of sankofa was important to me in teaching my children— and any others who would listen—that we had role models and traditions that existed before the experience of enslavement,” TiptonMartin says. “That is important if we’re going to inspire the next generation on to great things.” She began searching out black voices in everything she could get her hands on, from slave narratives to Harlem Renaissance poetry to cookbooks. It was in this last category that she discovered a vast resource of largely overlooked voices. Paging through her cookbook collection—now over 400 volumes spanning two centuries—she began uncovering powerful proof of African American cooking as multifaceted, skilled, learned and sophisticated. In recipe after recipe, she noted the influence of the highly trained African American chefs who ran plantation kitchens all across the south, and others who ran well-regarded restaurants in New York City. These cooks not only drew upon the local cuisine, but they brought with them influences from around the world, including Parisian training and Brazilian culture. She also made connections to Africa that others may have overlooked. In a recipe for akara, a Nigerian black-eyed pea fritter, she reveals a connection to the cornmeal fritters American Southerners know as hushpuppies. She traces gumbo, a New Orleans’ favorite, to West Africa, where gombo means okra, the vegetable that is used to give the soup body. In a recipe for lamb curry, she highlights a spice route from Malaysia and India to South Africa to the Caribbean, where the Jamaicans applied it to the local goat

while the inhabitants of the French islands preferred lamb. There are the influences that arose from slaves spending their days cooking extravagant meals for people with means. Tipton-Martin makes compelling connections from things like biscuits to the British tradition of afternoon tea. In a section of the book she titles “The Cornbread Flight,” she shows how cooks transformed basic baked corn pone (unleavened corn bread) into spoon bread, which is a tender, airy cornbread soufflé. These practices would be carried forward to generations with more freedom. Tipton-Martin shares with me her surprise when she found a cookbook describing 1940s-era tea parties and luncheons that featured fancy foods pulled from newspaper columns and magazines. “Once I had that as a perspective, then I didn’t have to be that surprised when I found recipes like Celery Victor,” she says. That dish gives celery a royal treatment, braising it until tender in stock, then thickening the juice with a knob of beurre manie (a French trick of blending butter with flour to use as a thickener) and enriching it with cream. It’s one of the many recipes she includes in “Jubilee” that shows what she calls the sumptuous side of African American cooking—the side that has long been overlooked.

KITCHEN CONFIDENCE One reason that it has taken so long to recognize African American contributions stems from the time and expertise required to really understand the early cookbooks. “That was a great moment of appreciation for all those years I spent understanding the mechanics of recipes,” Tipton-Martin says with a dry chuckle. “Many recipes had no hednotes. Sometimes there’s no instructions; sometimes there’s no method.” But rather than a sign of the cook’s illiteracy, as has often been assumed, the lack was a sign of their confidence in the kitchen, says Tipton-Martin. “Some of the recipes would begin ‘bake the cake in the usual way’ and then list ingredients because the cook perceived that to be the knowledge,” she points out. Really, it’s similar to the way recipes are handed out in a professional kitchen: You might get a piece of paper with ingredients and amounts but no instructions on how to put them together because it’s assumed you already know how.

There is also language to consider. “A lot of the recipes were for dishes in gravy, or ‘smothered,’” Tipton-Martin says. “Those are very Southern, soul terms. But if we were looking at this through another lens, this would be [sauce thickened with] a beurre manie. Or it would be béchamel,” one of the foundational sauces of classic French cooking. “But they just called it gravy.” Looking beyond the names to the actual cooking techniques can put a dish in a new light. Stewed chicken? That’s what the French call chicken fricassee. Crawfish soup? Add cream and that’s bisque, or as Mary Moore Brenner called it in her 1932 cookbook, potage d’écrevisses. “I don’t think anybody was standing around in their kitchen talking about macaroni and cheese in terms of making a béchamel sauce,” Tipton-Martin says, but the fact is those early cooks weren’t just melting Velveeta. They were making a cheese sauce with béchamel. As Tipton-Martin intended, tracing these classic recipes to the talented and highly trained cooks recasts the cooks’ place in history. It also helps us recognize the very real contributions African Americans have made to what we consider essential American cuisine today— learning, for example, that Bisquick owes its inspiration to a black chef pumping out light, airy biscuits from the kitchen of a train dining car, or that Nearest Green, a black master distiller, created the recipe for that most American of liquors, Jack Daniel’s. That’s the point of “Jubilee,” Tipton-Martin says. “[It] was really a way to express joy and celebration of freedom,” she explains. “This frees everyone from the boundaries that limit notions of African American cooking to survival. It means that chefs are free to cook whatever they like. It means that diners can now enter restaurants unbound by expectations of what’s going to be on the plate because of the color of the skin of the chef. It means that reviewers are now freer to contemplate the real quality of the cooking, not whether it matches this mysterious soul genre.” Asked how she would describe the food in “Jubilee,” she goes back to that one simple, evocative word: sumptuous. To taste what she means, try the wilted greens salad she offers here. While it reaches back to the ancient traditions of foraging for greens, the colorful salad and its warm bacon vinaigrette bath would fit right in on the menu of any farm-to-table restaurant from here to Paris. 

Wilted Mixed Greens with Bacon MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

The dish we’ve come to know as warm spinach salad—greens tossed with a hot bacon dressing—wasn’t really a salad at all, to hear the black cookbook authors tell it through the years. Survey the vegetables section of soul food and early 20th century black cookbooks and look for this uberpopular combination with titles like “wilted” or “killed” lettuce or spinach, or you might miss it. Back in the day, farm folks tossed combinations of bitter greens and herbs, such as escarole, chicory, purslane and watercress, with a warm dressing they stirred together right in a hot skillet after cooking bacon. In harder times, wild weeds like dandelion and poke, as in “poke sallet,” answered the call. Soul cooks carried on the tradition of wilting lettuce leaves instead of spinach. … I returned to the wilted lettuce tradition here with so-called power greens. These greens are dark and rich in vitamins and minerals and taste delicious. Try it my way, then experiment with your favorite combination of tender baby greens and herbs. 2 pounds mixed tender greens (spinach, arugula, chard, baby kale, watercress) 4 radishes, thinly sliced ½ cup thinly sliced red onion 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced 1 cup grape tomatoes, cut into halves 8 slices bacon 2⁄3 cup cider vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 2 teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 1⁄3 cup crumbled blue cheese (optional) 1. In a large salad bowl, toss together the greens, radishes, onion, eggs and tomatoes. 2. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 7 minutes. Leaving the rendered bacon fat in the skillet, remove the bacon to drain on paper towels and crumble when cool enough to handle. 3. Heat the bacon fat in the skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. Swirl the pan over the heat for 1 to 2 minutes to concentrate the flavors and slightly thicken the dressing. Pour the hot dressing over the greens and toss quickly to coat. Sprinkle the greens with the crumbled bacon and blue cheese (if using).

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First-Rate Mates

White wine and seafood always chart a clear course, but depending on the fish, you can add in some reds BY MARY SUBIALKA


ou won’t have to walk the plank if you choose the “wrong” wine to go with a seafood meal, but selecting a good mate can help complement the flavor components to create a tasteful match. While the best food and wine pairings are ultimately the ones you enjoy, the traditional tendency to pair seafood with white wine does have merit. The tannins in red wine can taste a bit metallic with white fish and shellfish, so it is best to avoid pairing Cabernet Sauvignon, Chianti, Merlot and Syrah with seafood. However, tuna, salmon and other full-flavored fish can make good partners with lighter reds such as Beaujolais and Pinot Noir as well as rosé. Go-to white wines include Albariño, unoaked Chardonnay, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and the semi-sparkling Portuguese Vinho Verde (especially with fish tacos). Try Sauvignon Blanc with steamed clams, and if you’re serving linguine with clam sauce, uncork a bottle of Pinot Grigio. Sea bass, cod and other firm-fleshed fish can also work with a full-bodied white such as oaked Chardonnay. Classic French partners for oysters are Chablis (which is Chardonnay), Champagne and Sancerre (which is Sauvignon Blanc). Enjoying some lobster salad this summer? Chablis, Chenin Blanc, Riesling and, of course, Champagne are perfect accompaniments. If the lobster is served hot with drawn butter, try a big buttery Chardonnay with the rich delicacy. 


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