Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Summer 2017 by Lunds & Byerlys

real food Lunds & Byerlys summerreal 2017 food summer 2017

Lunds & Byerlys

SUMMER 2017

COMPLIMENTARY

Summer Salads Simplify the season with whole-meal salads

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volume 13 number 2

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FIRE IT UP: Grilling with international flavor TAKE A DIP: Fresh takes on spinach, hummus and beans FRUITY DESSERTS: A sweet taste of the season

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contents

Features 20 Fire It Up Add international flair to your barbecue repertoire this season BY BRUCE AIDELLS

30 Simplify Summer Fresh whole-meal salads dish up easy one-plate lunch or dinner options BY ROBIN ASBELL

38 Take a Dip Creative hummus and more make snacks or light meals downright virtuous BY ROBIN ASBELL

46 Sweet Summer Delightful fruity desserts BY LINDA LOMELINO

52 Richard Blais Tips from his kitchen to yours BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Avocados move beyond guacamole RECIPES BY LARA FERRONI

6 Kitchen Skills Mix and match kebab marinades like a pro BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Tomatoes: Packed with nutrients BY CLAIRE NOACK

18 Healthy Habits Deliciously satisfying smoothie bowls RECIPES BY DANIELLA CHACE

56 Pairings Beer: Pair with sizzling selections and more BY MARY SUBIALKA

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real food summer 2017

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Our Cover

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6/23/16

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Cavatappi with Creamy Tarragon Dressing and Fresh Tuna (page 36) Photograph by Terry Brennan

PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS

EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITOR AUBREY SCHIELD ASSISTANT CONTENT PRODUCER KYLE SMELTER CONTRIBUTOR CLAIRE NOACK EDITORIAL INTERN NORA ALLEN SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON GRAPHIC DESIGNER PAUL BOEHNKE PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ATHAR KAKKA

VOLUME 13, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com C

CMY

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

bites

Beyond Guacamole Though guacamole is an undeniable fan favorite, avocado is more versatile than you might think

vocado has become a trending topic in the past few years, but you may not realize that this food has many more uses than the ever-popular avocado toast or guacamole. Add it to salsa, sneak it into pasta sauces and salads, or even substitute it for some of the butter in your baked goods for a healthier alternative, such as the cookies shown here from An Avocado a Day by Lara Ferroni. Packed with 20 vitamins and minerals such as vitamin K, potassium and vitamin C, healthy monounsaturated fats and a bit of protein, this little fruit can improve cholesterol levels and decrease your risk for heart disease—and taste great while doing it. —Nora Allen

Avocado Chutney MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

If you’re a sucker for sweet-and-sour dishes, you’ll want to spread this chutney on everything from lamb chops to phyllo rolls. It also makes a great coleslaw dressing. small red onion, chopped cup golden raisins cup sugar tablespoons red wine vinegar teaspoon crystallized ginger, chopped teaspoon whole yellow or brown mustard seeds ¼ teaspoon red chili flakes ½ cup finely diced avocado 1. In a small skillet over medium-low heat, put the onion, raisins, sugar, vinegar, ginger, mustard seeds and chili flakes. Cook, stirring, just until the sugar melts, about 5 minutes. Move the mixture to the bowl of a food processor, and pulse until just blended but still a little chunky. 2. Fold in the avocado. Store the chutney in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

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AVOCADOS MAXIMLESHKOVICH - FOTOLIA.COM

¼ ¼ ¼ 2 1 ¼

bites

Chocolate Chip Cookies MAKES ABOUT 2 DOZEN COOKIES

Avocado is a miracle worker in baked goods, like these chocolate chip cookies. By replacing half of the butter with avocado, you’ll get a cookie that stays thick and chewy in the center (but still crisp on the outside). ¾ cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter ½ cup smashed avocado, fresh or frozen and defrosted (see Tricks of the Trade below) 1⁄3 cup granulated sugar 1⁄3 cup turbinado, coconut or raw sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 7 to 8 ounces chocolate, chopped flaky sea salt, for garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 360°F, and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer or using a handheld electric mixer, cream the brown sugar, butter, avocado, granulated sugar and turbinado sugar on medium until light, about 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add the eggs one at a time, mixing until well combined between each egg. Mix in the vanilla. Set aside. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda and kosher salt. 4. With the mixer on low, use a small measuring cup to add small scoops of the flour mixture to the butter-sugar mixture until just combined. Do not overmix. Fold in the chocolate. 5. Scoop out the cookie dough in 11⁄2-tablespoon rounds, and place them on the baking sheets with at least 2 inches between each cookie. Give each round a gentle pat, and sprinkle it with the sea salt. 6. Bake until the cookies are golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and let the cookies sit on the baking sheets for a few minutes before transferring the cookies to a cooling rack. Cook’s Note: You can freeze these cookies to enjoy later. Place unbaked cookies on a baking sheet and freeze them. Once frozen, pop them into an airtight container and store them in the freezer for ready-to-bake cookies anytime.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE: FREEZING AVOCADO You can freeze avocados to use in smoothies, sauces or baked goods. To freeze an avocado, slice it into cubes, and then place the pieces in a single layer on a waxed paper-lined baking sheet that will fit in your freezer. Freeze the avocado cubes until they’re solid, about 30 minutes, and then transfer them to an airtight container that you can keep in the freezer. To defrost, place the cubes you need in a bowl of water until thawed, about 5 to 10 minutes, then drain. Unless specified, you should defrost any frozen avocado. ■

TOSTADAS DELUXE

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kitchen skills

Skewer Skills Marinate and grill flavorful kebabs like a pro this summer BY JASON ROSS

efore kitchens, before ovens, before any of it—there was meat on a stick. There is no skill more basic than cooking skewered meat, otherwise known as kebabs. Like anything simple, however, there are techniques to keep in mind, pitfalls to be wary of, and simple tricks to make things work and taste better. This summer use these three classic and internationally inspired sauces to marinate, baste and spoon over your grilled skewers, and you will be mixing and matching flavorful kebabs all season long.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE Make your grill hot and your cooking times short. The small cuts of meat used in skewers don’t require much time to cook and can easily dry as they sit on the grill. The high-heat grill will help quickly form a brown crust and good char marks without overcooking. Marinate first, then thread onto skewers. Work the marinade into the meat. You can use your hands or a spoon, but get it covered on all sides, and let it sit in the marinade in bulk. Trying to marinate while the meat is on skewers is difficult and much of the skewered meat will not get as nicely marinated. Bamboo or metal skewers? It’s a matter of preference. Bamboo skewers are often used in restaurants. They are affordable, readily available and easy to use. Bamboo will not get as hot or burn fingers as easily, but it can catch fire if not sufficiently soaked in water prior to use (see “For Skewering”). Plus, they are a bit flimsy. Metal is nice because it is reusable and sturdier. Leave the veggies off. While it may look nice, don’t alternate meat and vegetable pieces on the same skewer. Vegetables and meats cook at different speeds. If you want to grill vegetables, make separate vegetable skewers.

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Chimichurri Marinade MAKES 1 CUP

MIX AND MATCH

Marinades and Skewers Each marinade recipe here makes 1 cup of intensely flavorful marinade to be used with 1 pound of meat. In general, the chimichurri matches best with beef, the pinchos with pork, and the chermoula with chicken or fish, but any of the marinades would work well with any of the meats. So, mix it up and see what you like. FOR THE MEAT 1 pound (choose one), makes 4 servings • flank steak, tenderloin or sirloin • boneless, skinless chicken breast or boneless, skinless thighs • pork loin or tenderloin Cut the meats you choose into ½-inch-thick ribbons, roughly 1 inch wide by 3 to 4 inches long. Cubes work fine too (cut into 1-inch cubes), but the long, thin ribbons will give more surface area and contact with the marinade and the grill. More marinade, more grill equals more flavor. FOR MARINATING 1. Use ½ cup of the chimichurri, pinchos or chermoula marinade (recipes right) to marinate the meat and the remaining ½ cup to baste and for dipping and sauce for the finished grilled skewers. 2. In medium mixing bowls, mix marinades with cut meats using a spoon, spatula or hands to combine. Let the meat marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour, covered in the refrigerator. Any time longer than that and you risk toughening the thinly cut meats in the acids of the marinade. FOR SKEWERING 1. Use eight 6-inch bamboo skewers or four larger metal skewers for 1 pound of marinated beef, chicken or pork. If using bamboo, soak the skewers in water for at least 20 minutes. 2. After marinating, heat the grill and thread the skewer into the meat like stitching fabric, up and down through the meat. Pull the meat taught, stretching along the skewer, so the meat gets as much contact as possible with the grill. If you prefer cubes, skewer the meat straight through the middle of each piece, allowing a little space between pieces for even cooking.

NUTRITION

FOR GRILLING Make sure your grill is hot. Thinly cut skewered meats should cook for approximately 4 to 6 minutes per side. Baste with remaining marinade as the skewers come off the grill. Serve skewers with wedges of lime or lemon, pinches of salt and peppers and any remaining marinade (that was not used to marinate raw meat).

CHIMICHURRI W. STEAK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1 5 0 (3 8 f ro m fa t) ; FAT 4g (sat. 2g); CHOL 71mg; SODIUM 359mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 28g

PINCHOS W. PORK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 307 (199 from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 5g); CHOL 72mg; SODIUM 339mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 25g

CHERMOULA W. CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 267 (154 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 3g); CHOL 70mg; SODIUM 361mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 26g

2 1 1 2 ½ ½ ½

tablespoons water tablespoon red wine vinegar teaspoon salt cloves garlic, minced teaspoon cumin cup minced parsley cup minced cilantro

1. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the water, vinegar and salt until the salt is dissolved into the liquid. 2. Combine the rest of the ingredients into the bowl.

Pinchos Marinade MAKES 1 CUP

½ ¼ 2 1 1 1

cup olive oil cup water tablespoons lemon juice teaspoon salt teaspoon curry powder teaspoon dry thyme pinch black pepper 1 teaspoon paprika

1. In a medium mixing bowl combine all ingredients using a spoon or spatula to stir together.

Chermoula Marinade MAKES 1 CUP

½ 2 ¼ ¼ 2 1

cup olive oil tablespoons lemon juice (juice of roughly ½ lemon) cup minced parsley cup minced cilantro cloves garlic, minced teaspoon paprika pinch cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon salt pinch black pepper 1. In a medium sized mixing bowl combine all ingredients using a spoon or spatula to stir together. ■

Cook’s Note: All marinades can be made in advance and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

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contributors

Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is 300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix. She is also the author of Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More; Juice It!; Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta.

Terry Brennan

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis, Minn. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Jason Ross

Tara Q. Thomas

intended to be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, but got sidetracked by wine. She has been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is Executive Editor. Author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and a contributor to the forthcoming Oxford Companions to cheese and to spirits, she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, N.Y., juggling a laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

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is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minn., home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

Linda Lomelino

is a baker and photographer who has become a world star on social media in just a few years with her blog, Call Me Cupcake and under her Instagram profile @linda_lomelino. Her photos have propelled her to the level of most “liked” food photographers on social media. Her third book is My Sweet Kitchen, which follows the well-received Lomelino’s Cakes and Lomelino’s Ice Cream.

Bruce Aidells

founded Aidells Sausage Company in California in 1983. He left the company in 2002 to pursue food writing. A regular contributor to Eating Well and Fine Cooking, he has also shared his expertise on meat cookery in several cookbooks, including The Complete Meat Cookbook and his latest, The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today’s Meat. He is a host of Good Cookin’ with Bruce Aidells on livewellnetwork.com and invites you to join him on his Facebook page, Bruce Aidells, America’s Meat Guru.

Lunds & Byerlys welcome

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Connecting the Community

his spring we were honored to be named Employer of the Year by Lifeworks, a wonderful organization we have partnered with for more than 17 years to hire those with disabilities. I share this with you as a way to acknowledge these members of our company’s extended family of employees and the incredible leadership teams at our stores who are directly hiring these individuals. I’m so appreciative of our store leaders, such as Merrily Smith at our 50th Street Edina store, as they demonstrate an immense level of care and compassion for our staff. While some on their team might have a disability, those individuals have so many more abilities, and our store leaders focus on maximizing the potential in each of them. You can see it in our leaders’ eyes every time they have a chance to talk about one of their staff members who comes to us from Lifeworks or other organizations focused on finding meaningful employment for those with disabilities. “My work with Lifeworks clients over the past 17 years has been some of the most precious moments of my career,” Merrily said. “Their can-do attitude and passion for assisting our customers is inspiring to

everyone around them. They make all of us want to be the absolute best that we can be.” One of Merrily’s staff members is Brett, who has worked at our 50th Street Edina store for nearly nine years. I have had the pleasure of countless interactions with Brett. It is not an exaggeration to say Brett goes out of his way every day to light up our customers’ day. And I know every day I have the opportunity to see Brett is a better day for me. The reality is that store would not be the same without him. Just like our France Avenue Edina store wouldn’t be the same without Michael, who was the first to come to us through our long-standing partnership with Lifeworks. For many of these individuals, this is much more than a job. It’s a career. And we couldn’t be more honored and grateful that they’ve chosen to build their career at Lunds & Byerlys because their role is so vitally important in helping us create a sensational shopping experience for you. Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

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Pictured from left to right: Merrily Smith, Doug Nelson (Brett’s father), Brett Nelson, Renelle Nelson (Brett’s mother), former President and CEO of Lifeworks Services Judy M. Lysne and Tres Lund.

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Lunds & Byerlys salads healthy appetite

Summer Salads Salads are made easy—and delicious—with produce aisles brimming with fresh seasonal fruits and veggies

ith warmer weather upon us, we’re looking for light, refreshing meals to beat the rising temps. Enter salads. Although we enjoy salads year-round, the abundance of fresh, local produce during the summer months makes it a great time to load up our salads with juicy peaches, ripe berries, fresh tomatoes and, of course, leafy greens. Here are some of our favorite summer salads.

Grilled Peach & Arugula Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE ADAPTED FROM TITAN FARMS

Make this mouthwatering summer salad for your next barbecue gettogether. 2 peaches, pitted and cut into 8 wedges 5 ounces arugula ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon honey ½ teaspoon whole grain mustard 1 tablespoon red onion, minced 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped (or 1½ teaspoons dried) salt and pepper, to taste 8 slices prosciutto, cut in half ½ cup crumbled feta cheese 1. Lightly oil grill grate. Heat grill to medium-high. Place peach slices on the grill. Cook for about 1 minute, or until the slices have grill marks. Turn wedges over and cook the other side, about 1 minute, or until the slices have grill marks. Remove from grill and set aside. 2. Place arugula in a large bowl and set aside. 3. For the dressing: In a small jar, add vinegar, olive oil, honey, mustard, onion and tarragon. Shake vigorously. Season with salt and pepper and shake again. Add dressing to arugula and toss to coat. 4. Divide the arugula among four plates. Top each portion with grilled peach slices and prosciutto. Garnish with feta cheese and serve.

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Lunds & Byerlys salads

Ramen Salmon Salad MAKES 2 SERVINGS

Ramen noodles add the perfect amount of crunch to this easy summer salad.

Watercress Berry Salad with Exclamation Sauce MAKES 3 SERVINGS

This delicious, refreshing salad features sweet, juicy berries and a tangy homemade sauce. It pairs perfectly with grilled salmon. Marinade 2 tablespoons Nishiki Rice Vinegar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons granulated sugar ¼ small red onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1 (3-ounce) package any flavor ramen noodle soup mix (discard seasoning packet) ¼ cup sugar ¼ cup rice vinegar 1 tablespoon sesame oil 2 cups cooked salmon or smoked salmon (leftover grilled salmon works well) 4 cups mixed salad greens 1 mango, peeled and chopped 1 cup fresh blueberries ¼ cup sliced almonds 1. In a 10-inch skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Break block of noodles into bite-sized pieces over skillet; stir into butter. Cook noodles for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally until noodles are golden brown; remove from heat. 2. In large bowl, mix sugar, vinegar and oil. Add noodle mixture and remaining ingredients; toss. Serve immediately.

Exclamation Sauce ½ cup Greek Gods Plain Nonfat Yogurt 3 tablespoons California Olive Ranch Olive Oil Salad 2 large bunches (6 to 7 ounces) watercress, trimmed 1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons California Olive Ranch Olive Oil 3 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped 3 cups berries (strawberries quartered, blueberries, raspberries) 1. For the Marinade: Whisk rice vinegar, salt and sugar in a small bowl. Stir to dissolve salt and sugar. Toss with sliced onions. Let marinate for 1 to 2 hours in refrigerator. 2. For the Exclamation Sauce: Whisk yogurt and olive oil together in a small bowl. Set aside. 3. To assemble the salad, gently rinse and dry watercress in salad spinner. In a large bowl, whisk lemon juice, olive oil and dill. Just before serving add watercress, berries and onion mixture and toss gently. Divide among 3 plates and spoon a dollop (about 2 to 3 tablespoons) of the Exclamation Sauce on the side of each plate.

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Lunds & Byerlys salads

Peachy Kale & Chicken Salad Makes 2 servings

Toss up a crunchy dinner salad in minutes, thanks to our rotisserie chicken. Serve with Lunds & Byerlys Crusty Dinner Rolls or slices of banana bread from our bakery. 1 bunch (8 ounces) kale, ribs removed, cut into bite-sized pieces (about 6 cups) 2 cups chopped Lunds & Byerlys Rotisserie Chicken 2 medium peaches, unpeeled, sliced 2 bacon strips, cooked and crumbled ½ cup Lunds & Byerlys Smokehouse Cider Dressing ¼ cup caramelized nuts (optional) 1. Toss kale with remaining ingredients until thoroughly coated with dressing. Cook’s Note: For variations, roasted sweet potato, carrot or butternut squash partner well in this salad. Crumbled goat cheese adds another flavor dimension.

BLT Chicken Chipotle Salad Makes 4 servings

It’s everything you love about a BLT, tossed together into a flavorful dinner salad. This fresh and crunchy mix comes together in a snap thanks to Lunds & Byerlys Rotisserie Chicken. 2 cups shredded Lunds & Byerlys Rotisserie Chicken ¼ cup diced red onion ¼ cup chopped celery ¼ cup diced green bell pepper 1 cup seeded, chopped tomatoes salt and pepper, to taste ¼ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup sour cream 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice ¼ teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Ground Chipotle Chile Pepper 1 teaspoon minced garlic 8 Bibb lettuce leaves 4 garlic toasts, crumbled 4 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled 1. In a large mixing bowl, combine chicken, onion, celery, bell pepper and tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 2. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, sour cream, lime juice, chipotle and garlic. Pour over chicken mixture; toss to combine. 3. Arrange two lettuce leaves on each of 4 serving plates. Divide crumbled toasts onto lettuce leaves. 4. Spoon chicken salad over crumbs; sprinkle bacon over each salad and serve. 

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Lunds & Byerlys clip-and-keep guide

A Guide to Leafy Greens Variety

Variety

Arugula

Flavor: Bitter and peppery. USES: Fresh in salads or sandwiches, add to soups, or sauté for vegetable dishes.

Belgian Endive

Flavor: Hint of bitterness. Red variety slightly more bitter than green. USES: Leaves are perfectly shaped to hold spreads for appetizers, or add fresh in salads.

Bibb Lettuce

Flavor: Sweet and succulent. USES: Fresh in lettuce wraps or salads.

Curly Endive

Flavor: Slightly bitter. Cook briefly for milder flavor. USES: Fresh in salads or add to side dishes.

Collard Greens

Flavor: Mild and slightly stronger than cabbage. USES: Steam or sauté to tenderize leaves. Southern style of cooking the greens is to boil with bacon or salt pork.

Kale

Flavor: Mildly peppery. Cabbage-like. USES: Remove tough stems and ribs. Steam, sauté, boil, or add small amount to salads. Beautiful as a garnish.

Leaf Lettuce

Flavor: Mild, yet more full-flavored than head lettuce. USES: Fresh in salads or sandwiches.

Mustard Greens

Flavor: Sharp and peppery. Radish-like. USES: Steam, sauté, or simmer as a side vegetable.

Radicchio

(also known as red chicory)

Flavor: Bittersweet. USES: Fresh in salads, grill, sauté or bake.

Romaine Lettuce

Flavor: Slightly bitter. USES: Adds crunch to mixed green salads, and is typically the lettuce used for Caesar salad.

Dandelion Greens

Flavor: Slightly bitter and tangy. USES: Cook like spinach or add small amount to salads.

Spinach

Flavor: Slightly bitter. For sweeter, milder taste use baby spinach. USES: Fresh in salads or sandwiches, sauté, or add to soups and pastas.

Escarole

Flavor: Similar to curly endive with milder flavor. USES: Primarily used fresh in salads. Can also steam or add to soups.

Swiss Chard

Flavor: Mild and sweet. USES: Prepare greens similar to spinach. Prepare stalks similar to asparagus.

Frisée

Flavor: Nice balance of bitter and sweet. USES: Fresh in mixed green salads.

Watercress

Flavor: Slightly bitter with a peppery snap. USES: Fresh in salads or added to soups and side dishes. Also popular as a garnish.

Source: Lunds and Byerly’s – Lund Food Holdings, Inc.

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Lunds & Byerlys

whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in store

LOCUST LANE VINEYARDS VERJUS AND BALSAMIC VINEGAR Locust Lane Vineyards is a family-owned business that grows cold-hardy wine grapes in southwestern Minnesota. Instead of making wine with their grapes, they create balsamic vinegar and white and red verjus, an acidic substitute for vinegar or lemon juice.

Did you know? Chefs adore verjus for its delicate flavor and ability to complement a dish rather than overpower it. Try verjus in salads, sorbets and stews.

TAZA CHOCOLATE AMAZE BARS Taza Chocolate stone grinds organic cacao beans into unrefined, minimally processed chocolate with bold flavor and texture. They create each bar using traditional Mexican stone mills to preserve the bright, fruity flavors of the beans. Varieties include coconut; toffee, almond and sea salt; and sea salt and almond.

Did you know? Taza was the first U.S. chocolate maker to establish a third-party-certified Direct Trade Cacao Certification. The program ensures they only partner with cacao producers who respect the rights of workers and the environment.

LUNDS & BYERLYS CREAM CAKES These beautiful, decadent cream cakes are created by our talented team of bakers and cake decorators. Each dessert contains layers of Lunds & Byerlys exclusive cake as well as sweet, creamy filling and loads of delicious toppings such as fresh whipped cream, cookie crumbles and chocolate shavings. Flavors include raspberry, Oreo, midnight silk and vanilla bean.

Tip: Pick up a Lunds & Byerlys Cream Cake for a fun birthday cake alternative or as a special treat for a weekend get-together with friends.

14 real food summer 2017

Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

COW CANDY Developed by a mom for her little ones, Cow Candy is a healthy, natural cheese snack packed with the creamy goodness of Wisconsin Monterey Jack cheese. The whimsical fruit flavors and bold colors are reminiscent of candy, but without all the added sugar and artificial ingredients.

Did you know? Each Cow Candy cheese stick packs 4 grams of protein and 15 percent of the daily allowance of calcium to keep little bodies strong and energized.

OLYMPIA PROVISIONS SALAMIS Olympia Provisions produces signature salamis using the finest ingredients. Everything is carefully handcrafted and slowly dry cured, allowing the spices to fully develop and enhance the flavor of the pork. Varieties include Loukanika (Greek), Saucisson D’Arles (French), Cacciatore (Italian) and Chorizo Rioja (Spanish).

Tip: For a Spanish-inspired charcuterie board, pair Chorizo Rioja

LUNDS & BYERLYS VEGETABLE NOODLES Ready to swap your pasta for vegetable noodles? Let us help! Pick up ready-to-eat vegetable noodles in our produce department. They’re a healthy and delicious alternative to pasta that’s lower in carbs and calories, but high in fiber and nutrients such as vitamins A and C. Plus, they’re quick cooking, which means you can have a healthy and flavorful meal on the table in a snap. Varieties include zucchini, beet, sweet potato and butternut squash.

Tip: Prepare a simple side dish by sautéing garlic in olive oil until fragrant. Add the vegetable noodles of your choice and season with salt and pepper. Sauté for 5 minutes. Add 4 ounces of goat cheese and stir until melted. Garnish with chopped Marcona almonds and fresh parsley.

with marinated peppers, smoked almonds and manchego cheese.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

Always seen. Never heard.

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ingredient

Tomayto, Tomahto These juicy orbs are not only an American household staple for their delicious taste; they are also packed with nutrients

quash, throw and dodge. These probably aren’t the tips you were expecting to use for your tomatoes, but they are basic survival tactics at the annual La Tomatina festival, a massive tomato fight in the streets of Buñol, a Valencian town in Spain. Since 1945, around 40,000 wacky folks have gathered to pelt one another with over 319,000 pounds of the fruit every August. Rather than starting your own food fight, use tomatoes to create tasty meals. June through September is the peak season for picking up tomatoes at the store. Botanically classified as a fruit, tomatoes are one of the most versatile staples to keep on hand. There are so many ways to prepare them—grill them, cook them in pasta sauce, chop into a fresh salsa, sprinkle on top of salads, slice for use in sandwiches, or enjoy on their own—you really can’t go wrong. If the summery flavor of tomatoes isn’t enticing enough, the health benefits might draw you in. Packed with nutrients, tomatoes are a good source of fiber, rich in vitamins C, A and B, and contain potassium. They also have the highest level of lycopene of any widely consumed food. This powerful antioxidant protects your skin from sun damage and helps reduce the risk of heart disease and certain types of cancer. We know what you’re thinking: “tomayto, tomahto.” All forms of this juicy fruit must be the same. Not true. The plethora of tomato varieties falls into four general categories. —Claire Noack

Fresh Tomato Salsa MAKES 4 SERVINGS

4 plum tomatoes, seeded and cut into ¼ inch pieces 1 small jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice ¼ teaspoon kosher salt large pinch ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese 1. In a medium bowl, toss the tomatoes, jalapeño, lime juice, salt and pinch pepper. Fold in cilantro and cheese. ■

Beefsteak is a round and slightly pumpkin-shaped variety that balances sweetness and acidity in flavor. The largest variety of tomato, beefsteaks can easily weigh 2 pounds or more and are enjoyed raw or cooked. Globe tomatoes are often the varieties found in supermarkets. Medium-sized, firm and juicy, globes are good both raw and cooked. Plum tomatoes, also called Roma or Italian plum, are not as sweet and acidic as globe or beefsteak. The egg-shaped tomatoes are either yellow or red and are a good choice for cooking or canning due to lower water content and fewer seeds. Cherry tomatoes may be red, orange, green or yellow, and are about an inch in diameter. These tomatoes are generally sweeter than beefsteak or globe varieties. Cherry tomatoes are versatile and taste great in sandwiches and salads, raw or sautéed. Tip: Don’t refrigerate tomatoes unless they’ve been cut. Cold temperatures stop the ripening process, dull the flavor, and can make the flesh pulpy. Store them at room temperature away from sunlight and use within a few days. PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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healthy habits

Super Smoothies Blend some nutrient-rich food into your diet with deliciously satisfying smoothie bowls

moothies are a delectable, satisfying way to incorporate healthy foods into your diet. And it is easy to mix healthy greens into a fruit smoothie—the sweetness of the fruit will mask vegetable flavors. While juicing is a good way of enjoying fresh produce, the process can strip most of the fiber out of fruits and vegetables, ultimately giving them a higher glycemic index. Blending, on the other hand, keeps that good-for-you-fiber where it belongs. The next time you start mixing up a smoothie, consider ditching the straw. According to nutritionist and cookbook author Daniella Chace, blending up a smoothie and enjoying it in a bowl is the wave of smoothie future. It gives you the opportunity to punctuate an otherwise run-of-the-mill smoothie with a flourish of toppings such as healthy fruits, hearty nuts, herbs and spices and more complementary flavors. In her book, Superfood Smoothie Bowls, Chace shares 100 easy recipes for delicious smoothie bowls that pack a nutritious punch. She uses superfoods (those that are particularly rich in vitamins and nutrients such as kale, blueberries and chia seeds) to get even more out of these satisfying treats. Chace also notes that chewing is an important part of the digestive process that releases cleansing enzymes, leaving you feeling more satisfied than slurping through a straw. Get ready to clink spoons and toast this refreshing new way of enjoying your daily smoothie. —Aubrey Schield

Vanilla Basil Whip MAKES 2 SERVINGS

This bowl is light and creamy and has a savory herbal fragrance. The nutrients in avocados, including essential fatty acids, fiber, potassium, magnesium, folate, vitamin B6, niacin, pantothenic acid, riboflavin, choline, lutein, zeaxanthin and phytosterols, support cardiovascular health, weight management and healthy aging. Smoothie ½ avocado, pitted and peeled 1 cup fresh basil leaves 1 cup almond milk ¼ cup hulled hemp seeds 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract, or 2 vanilla beans Toppings 2 tablespoons sliced almonds sprigs of fresh basil leaves sprigs of fresh thyme leaves 6 rice crackers 1. Combine all smoothie ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. 2. Pour the smoothie into two small bowls and sprinkle each with half of the almonds, basil and thyme. 3. Serve with rice crackers on the side.

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Oregano Citrus Power MAKES 2 SERVINGS

This bright orange bowl has carrot and citrus flavors with fragrant oregano that provide phytochemicals to protect against inflammation and fight bacterial infections. Oregano contains powerful compounds, such as carvacrol, cymene, linalool and terpinene, which reduce inflammation, kill bacteria and fungus, and have antiproliferative activity against human cancer cells. Smoothie 2 cups tangerine segments 1 cup cantaloupe, without rind ¼ cup carrot juice ¼ cup hulled hemp seeds 2 tablespoons tangerine zest 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves Toppings ½ cup chopped cantaloupe, without rind 2 teaspoons sliced almonds 2 teaspoons hulled hemp seeds sprigs of fresh oregano leaves 1. Combine all smoothie ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. 2. Pour the smoothie into two small bowls and sprinkle each with half of the toppings and serve.

Coconut Berry Cream MAKES 2 SERVINGS

This vibrant bowl blends antioxidant-rich blueberries with essential amino acids provided by the protein powder. Protein-rich foods, such as nuts, seeds and protein powders contain the amino acids that are the building blocks for the production of neurotransmitters that manage mood and pain. A diet rich in amino acids ensures a constant supply of the materials needed to make adequate amounts of the chemicals that give us feelings of contentment, relaxation and satiety. Smoothie 2 cups blueberries ½ cup coconut milk beverage ¼ cup pumpkin seeds ¼ cup protein powder

Toppings 2 tablespoons blueberries 2 tablespoons unsweetened flaked coconut 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds

NUTRITION

1. Combine all smoothie ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. 2. Pour the smoothie into two small bowls and sprinkle each with half of the toppings and serve. ■

VANILLA BASIL WHIP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 220; FAT 10g; CARB 10g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 7g

OREGANO CITRUS POWER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 219; FAT 10g; CARB 24g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 9g

COCONUT BERRY CREAM: PER SERVING: CALORIES 361; FAT 15g; CARB 27g; FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 20g

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Chinese-Style Glazed Back Ribs (recipe page 27)

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Fire It Up Add international flavor to your backyard barbecue repertoire this season By Bruce Aidells

Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

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Meal Plan My preferred side dish is rice cooked in saffron or a whole grain such as spelt, bulgar or farro. I like to serve this with Sauvignon Blanc or lager beer.

Grilled Shrimp, Sweet Peppers and Onions with Chorizo and Spanish Paprika Butter

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hen it comes to cooking food over fire it is pretty

much a global enterprise. And even though live-fire cooking is the most primitive of cooking styles, it is still extremely popular from the tip of South America to the reaches of northern Tibet and the countries in between. In the recipes featured here, I have drawn on this global influence to take advantage of its wonderful diversity. The flavoring of the grilled shrimp is decidedly influenced by Spain and its love of shrimp and using Spanish chorizo as a flavoring agent. The ribs take advantage of the classic Chinese condiments hoisin and soy sauce to produce a sweet and savory glaze. The chicken coated in Dijon mustard and herbs pays homage to France’s love of mustard. Even flavors from our own country are involved in the marinade for beef tri-tip, an American cut loved for grilling in the central coast of California. And because I use stout in the marinade, I could argue that the beloved beer style of Ireland—not a country known for grilling—even plays a role. With these recipes you can add international flavor to your outdoor barbecues that friends and family will enjoy. Best of all, these recipes are simple to produce and don’t involve any complicated cooking methods.

Grilled Shrimp, Sweet Peppers and Onions with Chorizo and Spanish Paprika Butter Makes 4 servings

Soaking shrimp in an iced salt solution not only leaches out any off flavors but gives the shrimp a crisp, juicy texture even if slightly overcooked. The result is crisp, clean succulent shrimp. Butterflying the shrimp prior to cooking makes it quick and easy to grill, plus it creates more interior surface to soak up the flavorful butter. Use Spanish chorizo and not Mexican chorizo, which is completely different and will not work as well in this recipe. Try Pimentón Vera, a smoky Spanish paprika, but if it’s not available a good quality Hungarian paprika will work. If you have any chorizo butter left over, chill and use as a garnish for grilled fish, beef or chicken breast. 1/2 cup kosher salt 1 cup ice cubes 11/2 pounds large unshelled shrimp (20 count or larger) 1 large red bell pepper cut into 1-inch squares 1 medium-large red onion or sweet onion cut into 1-inch chunks 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley, for garnish

Chorizo and Spanish Paprika Butter 1/3 cup (2 ounces) diced Spanish chorizo 2 large cloves garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons chopped shallots 1/2 cup (1/4 pound) melted butter 2 teaspoons Pimentón Vera or Hungarian paprika 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Pour 31/2 cups cold water into a mixing bowl and stir in salt until dissolved. Stir in ice cubes to chill brine to 45°F or less. Add shrimp. Make sure they are covered with the brine and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Drain and discard brine. 2. To butterfly shrimp, make a cut along the leg side to a depth of half the thickness of each shrimp, making sure not to cut all the way through. Open shrimp and flatten them in your palm. Thread shrimp onto skewers so the skewers are perpendicular to the length of the shrimp. The skewers should help to keep the shrimp flat (2 parallel skewers work better than one). Set shrimp skewers aside. 3. Thread alternating pieces of peppers and onions onto skewers. 4. To make the Chorizo Butter: Drop chorizo into the feed tube of a running food processor followed by the garlic and shallot. Stop the machine, scrape down the sides and pulse several times until all is finely chopped. Melt butter over low heat in a small saucepan. Add chopped mixture and paprika to the pan, increase heat to medium, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until the garlic and chorizo become fragrant. Add remaining ingredients and keep butter mixture warm. 5. Build a charcoal or gas fire to provide medium-hot heat. Brush each shrimp, pepper and onion skewer with the butter mixture. Place shrimp leg side down and grill for 2 to 3 minutes. Brush again with the butter, turn and grill 2 minutes more or until shrimp are pink and firm. Transfer shrimp to a warm platter while you finish the vegetables. 6. Grill pepper and onion skewers for 2 minutes. Brush with butter and turn over and grill 2 more minutes and brush again with the butter. Continue to baste and turn until the vegetables are tender and the edges are a little charred, about 10 minutes total. Remove shrimp and vegetables from the skewers and arrange on a platter. Drizzle the remaining butter over everything, garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

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Grilled Chicken with Mustard, Lemon and Fresh Herb Coating Makes 4 to 6 servings

The mustard coating on this chicken recipe is applied after the chicken is nicely seared and when it roasts over indirect heat. When done, it forms a lovely mustardy, herby crust. I like thighs and breast but you can use any combination of chicken pieces you prefer including legs and thighs, breast and leg, and thigh quarters. You will need about 4 to 5 pounds total to feed six folks or four folks with big appetites. ustard, Lemon and Herb Paste M 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons minced garlic juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons) 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 4 large chicken breasts, about 3 pounds 4 large chicken thighs, about 11/2 pounds salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. To make the mustard coating, combine all ingredients except the chicken and the 1 teaspoon rosemary and 1 teaspoon oregano in a small bowl and whisk until well mixed. Set aside. 2. Heat one side of a gas or charcoal grill to produce a mediumhot fire. Lightly season all sides of the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Combine the 1 teaspoon rosemary and 1 teaspoon oregano and sprinkle over the skin side. Scatter chicken over the heat, skin side down. Cover the grill and sear for 2 to 3 minutes until chicken is nicely browned. Turn and cook the other side 2 to 3 minutes or until beginning to brown. If the grill starts to flare up, immediately move the chicken to the part of the grill that has no fire to avoid burning. 3. When all the pieces have been nicely seared, space them skin side up over the unlit side of the grill. Brush each piece with the mustard coating. Cover and cook for about 30 to 40 minutes or until the area near the bone is no longer pink. Breasts will take less time than thighs. Breasts are done when they reach an internal temperature of 160Â°F and thighs are done at 170Â°F. Arrange chicken on a platter and serve.

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Meal Plan I like to serve the chicken with a potato salad made with a mustard vinaigrette and a green salad of mixed summer lettuces. The full-flavored coating on this chicken makes it ideal to eat cold the next day on its own or in chicken sandwiches. I like to serve this chicken with a somewhat fruity white wine such as Riesling or GewĂźrztraminer. Lager or wheat beer is also nice.

Grilled Chicken with Mustard, Lemon and Fresh Herb Coating

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meal plan I like to serve these ribs with baked sweet potatoes and an old-fashioned mayonnaise-ey coleslaw. I think they go well with a fruity red wine such as Zinfandel or Pinot Noir.

Chinese-Style Glazed Back Ribs

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Chinese-Style Glazed Back Ribs Makes 4 Servings

Since I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, I often visit Chinatown and can never resist the racks of hoisin-glazed ribs hanging in the windows of the food shops that line the streets in the neighborhood. The glaze in this recipe is inspired by these ribs but has many more ingredients than the typical hoisin glaze. Not only is this glaze good on back ribs but it could also be used for chicken, pork chops or even burgers—so have fun with it. Chinese Glaze 1 tablespoon peanut oil 1/2 cup finely chopped shallots 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup hoisin sauce 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons Chinese wine or dry sherry 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce juice of 1 fresh lime (about 2 tablespoons) juice of 1 fresh lemon (about 3 tablespoons) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons honey 2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil 1 large slab or 2 smaller slabs pork back ribs (also called baby back ribs), about 3 to 4 pounds salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. To make the glaze, heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and cook until soft, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add remaining ingredients except the sesame oil and bring to a boil. Reduce the liquid until it becomes syrupy. Stir in the sesame oil and set aside. 2. Set up a gas or charcoal grill for indirect grilling with medium-high heat on the hot side of the grill. Lightly season both sides of the ribs with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place ribs, meat side down and grill until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook the bone side for another 5 minutes. Move the ribs, meat side up, to the area of the grill where there is no fire under the meat. Generously baste the ribs with the glaze. Cover the grill and try to maintain a temperature of 300°F to 350°F. Baste the ribs with the glaze every 30 minutes. The ribs are done when the meat begins to pull away from the bone, 45 minutes to 11/2 hours, depending on the temperature of the grill. Since it is very difficult to manage a consistent low temperature on a grill, begin monitoring the internal temperature at 45 minutes. The internal temperature at the thickest part of the ribs should be 160°F to 170°F. 3. Brush the glaze over the ribs once more and place them directly over a mediumhot fire and grill for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the glaze is bubbly and just beginning to brown. Turn and brush the other side with glaze and grill for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, or until the glaze is bubbly and beginning to color. Remove from the grill, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest for 10 minutes. 4. Slice in between the ribs to separate them. Place on a platter and brush generously with more glaze.

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Stout-Marinated Grilled Tri-tip MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Tri-tip is a small roast from the bottom end of the sirloin. It has great flavor, no waste, and is very easy to carve. It takes well to marinades and when I grill tri-tip, I usually marinate it for a day or more in a flavorful marinade followed by a simple dry rub. I have often seen marinade recipes that call for red wine but I don’t care for it as it can lend a bitter aftertaste to marinades. Rather, I prefer to use beer as a basic ingredient in my marinades. This recipe uses a dark stout beer, which has slightly bitter and caramel undertones that really complement the rich, beefy flavor of tri-tip. Because tri-tip is fairly thick, I don’t like to cook it completely over direct heat since there is a high risk of burning the outside before the inside is cooked to the proper degree of doneness. I prefer to sear the roast first and then complete the cooking over indirect heat, a process I call “grill roasting.” Stout Marinade 1 (12-ounce) bottle American Stout or 1 cup strong brewed coffee (see Cook’s Notes) 1⁄4 cup malt vinegar 1⁄4 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon Coleman’s dry mustard powder 2 tablespoons minced garlic (4 large cloves) 1 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot sauce 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1⁄4 cup olive oil

1 tri-tip beef roast (about 21⁄2 pounds) Paprika and Cocoa Dry Rub 2 teaspoons Pimentón Vera (smoked Spanish Paprika) or Hungarian paprika 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk until well blended. 2. Using a sharp meat fork or skewer, puncture the meat all over on both sides. Place meat in a 1-gallon zipper lock bag. Pour over the marinade. Seal bag and shake and turn the bag so the meat is totally covered with the marinade. Place bag in a bowl in case it leaks and refrigerate overnight or up to 36 hours. Turn and shake bag occasionally. 3. For the rub: About 2 hours before you are ready to grill the tri-tip, make the rub by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl until well blended. Rub may also be made several days or up to two weeks ahead and stored in a sealed container. 4. Remove roast from the marinade and discard the marinade. Pat the meat dry with paper towels. Coat the meat on all sides using the rub. Place on a tray or platter and rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours. 5. To set up the grill for indirect cooking, place coals on one half of a covered grill or, if using a gas grill, preheat it by heating all the burners on high heat. When the gas grill is hot, turn off the middle section; if using charcoal, heat until coals are glowing hot. Do not remove the spice coating and lay the meat directly above the heat. Sear the meat for 3 minutes on each side and then transfer the roast to the area of the grill that has no fire. Cover and grill-roast (indirect grilling). After about 15 minutes begin to check the internal temperature of the roast. When it registers 115°F to 120°F it will produce a mostly medium-rare roast after resting (thinner areas of the roast may be closer to medium doneness). If you prefer rare meat as I do, remove the roast when its internal temperature is 110°F to 115°F, which is perhaps after a total cooking time of around 25 to 26 minutes. 6. Transfer the roast to a cutting board and loosely cover with foil. Let rest at least 10 minutes and up to 15 minutes. The final internal temperature will reach 125°F to 130°F. Slice across the grain into 1⁄4-inch-thick slices and serve.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Notes: • For an alcohol-free marinade, use 1 cup dark brewed coffee in place of the stout. This will also give the marinade a slightly bitter flavor, which works well with tri-tip. • If you are lucky enough to have any leftovers, this makes great sandwiches or a nice addition to a mixed lettuce salad. ■

GRILLED SHRIMP W. CHORIZO & SPANISH PAPRIKA BUTTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 407 (257 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 17g); CHOL 268mg; SODIUM 1057mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 30g

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GRILLED CHICKEN W. MUSTARD, LEMON AND FRESH HERB COATING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 540 (250 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 7g); CHOL 185mg; SODIUM 847mg; CARB 4g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 65g

CHINESE-STYLE GLAZED BACK RIBS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 602 (328 from fat); FAT 36g (sat. 12g); CHOL 137mg; SODIUM 1254mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 39g

STOUT-MARINATED GRILLED TRI-TIP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 322 (97 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 3g); CHOL 134mg; SODIUM 414mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 53g

Meal Plan This roast can be served with a full flavored red wine such as Petit Syrah or Zinfandel, but I like to serve it with beer such as stout or ale. For side dishes, roasted or boiled new potatoes are very good. It also goes well with your favorite bean dish.

Stout-Marinated Grilled Tri-tip

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Simplify Summer

Whole-meal salads offer an easy take on lunch or dinner By Robin Asbell

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ummer is finally here, and we can wear flip-flops and kick back in the sunshine. Even if you spend your

days in an air-conditioned office, your body is in tune with the season. Most people don’t crave mashed potatoes and gravy when the temperature rises; it’s natural to want lighter fare. That’s where easy salad meals come in. The whole-meal salad is a great way to eat in the summertime. You won’t waste a moment of precious sunshine when you make these streamlined, one-plate meals. Each is vegetable rich but still hearty enough to fill you up for all your activities. Serve them at room temperature or chilled so they don’t heat you up or weigh you down. One salad strategy that will make your summer life easier is cooking ahead. If you are firing up the grill one day to cook burgers or steaks, throw on the brats and veggies for the brat salad while the grill is hot, then put them away in the refrigerator for the next day. That strategy works for the mixed greens with chicken salad, too. If you make a habit of grilling extra chicken, shrimp or other proteins, you can stash them to make into a salad later in the week and save precious time. Grains can also be made ahead. Cook a pot of brown rice, wheat berries or quinoa and store the finished grains in the fridge. Then you have a base to flavor with your favorite dressing and toss with veggies and beans or whatever you have on hand. Simplify your summer with salads. You will love it.

Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

Cavatappi with Creamy Tarragon Dressing and Fresh Tuna (recipe page 36)

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Creamy Peanut Quinoa Salad Makes 4 Servings

Quinoa is the mild-tasting, high-protein grain that has become a staple in American kitchens over the past few years. It cooks in just 15 minutes and is fantastic in a salad such as this, with a creamy peanut dressing and some crunchy vegetables. Edamame is another high-protein vegetable, and many kids love it too.

1 cup quinoa ½ cup coconut milk ¼ cup smooth peanut butter ¼ cup fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce, or to taste 1 cup (4 ounces) snap peas 1 cup grape tomatoes 1 cup shelled edamame, thawed 2 large scallions, sliced on a diagonal

1. In a 1-quart pot, bring 1½ cups water to a boil. Add the quinoa and return to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to low. Simmer 15 minutes, until all the water is absorbed. Uncover and fluff the grain with a fork, let cool. 2. In a 2-cup measuring cup, combine the coconut milk and peanut butter and stir with a fork until smooth. Add the lime juice, brown sugar, soy sauce and Sriracha, if desired. Stir to mix well. 3. Trim the snap peas and halve the grape tomatoes. Place the cooled quinoa in a large bowl and add the snap peas, tomatoes, edamame and peanut butter mixture. Toss to mix well. Serve sprinkled with scallions. It will keep, tightly covered, for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.

Grilled Vegetable and Bratwurst Salad Makes 4 Servings

Brats are a grill favorite and deserve to be served outside the bun in a fresh salad such as this. Grilled veggies provide a burst of color and texture with barely a carbohydrate in sight.

1 medium zucchini 1 medium red bell pepper 1 small onion 1 tablespoon canola oil, divided 1 bunch asparagus 4 bratwurst (1 pound)

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, pressed 1 teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper

1. Preheat the grill. Prepare a grill wok or skewers for the vegetables: If you are using a wok, you can slice the vegetables in smaller pieces. To skewer, slice the zucchini in ½-inch-thick slices and place in a large bowl. Slice the pepper in half and remove the membranes and seeds, cut in 1-inch squares, and add to the bowl. Cut the onion in ½ inch wedges. Drizzle 2 teaspoons of the canola oil over the vegetables in the bowl and toss to coat, then skewer each kind of vegetable on its own skewers (so they will cook evenly.) Slice the tough bottoms from the asparagus, place in the bowl, and toss with the remaining oil to coat. 2. On the grill, place the vegetable skewers or put them in a wok over medium heat and turn often. Arrange the asparagus spears on the grate so they won’t fall through. Turn every minute or so until browned. Transfer each vegetable to the bowl as it is grill-marked and tender. 3. While grilling the vegetables, grill the brats for about 12 minutes, turning every 4 minutes. Transfer to the bowl and let cool. 4. When the brats are cool enough to handle, slice each on a diagonal into bite-sized pieces. Remove the skewers from the cooked vegetables, put them in the bowl, and add the sliced brats. 5. In a cup, stir the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Drizzle over the vegetable mixture and toss to coat. Serve at room temperature, or refrigerate, covered, for up to 3 days.

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Creamy Peanut Quinoa Salad and Grilled Vegetable and Bratwurst Salad

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Bacon Roasted Broccoli and Pork Noodles Makes 4 to 6 servings

Fortunately, Korean foods such as fresh kimchi and fish sauce are now easy to find. Smoky bacon gives this dish tons of flavor, providing a crispy counterpoint to the soft noodles and tangy kimchi. Kimchi comes in mild and hot versions, so if you are not into heat, buy the mild one and vary the spice at serving by offering hot sauce at the table.

4 slices bacon, chopped 1 bunch broccoli, 6 cups large florets ½ medium red bell pepper, seeded and sliced 3 tablespoons fish sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

3 tablespoons brown sugar 8 ounces rice noodles 12 ounces pork tenderloin, sliced 1 large jalapeño, seeded and chopped 1 cup kimchi, drained and chopped ½ cup cilantro leaves, torn, plus more for garnish

1. Boil a pot of water to cook the noodles. Preheat the broiler. Prepare a bowl to drain the bacon by lining with a double thickness of paper towels. In a large skillet, sprinkle the chopped bacon and place it over medium heat. Stir often, until the bacon is crisp. Transfer the bacon pieces to the prepared bowl. Don’t wash the pan. 2. Place the broccoli and red peppers on a sheet pan and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat. Toss the broccoli to coat, then place under the broiler. Broil the broccoli and peppers for about 2 minutes, then take out and stir. Return to broiler for just 1 to 2 minutes, until the broccoli is browned and softened. Take out to cool. 3. In a cup, stir the fish sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and brown sugar. Cook the rice noodles, drain, then place in a large bowl and drizzle with half of the fish sauce mixture, and toss to coat. 4. Reheat the remaining bacon fat in the pan over high heat, and add the sliced pork and jalapeños. Stir frequently for about 4 minutes, just until the pork is browned and cooked through. 5. Add the broccoli mixture, pork mixture, kimchi and cilantro to the bowl of noodles and toss to mix. 6. Serve topped with bacon and garnished with cilantro.

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Cavatappi with Creamy Tarragon Dressing and Fresh Tuna

Mixed Greens with Tomatoes, Corn and Spiced Chicken

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This easy one-plate meal is full of flavor thanks to the spices that coat the chicken and a piquant Dijon dressing. A bed of tender mixed greens and snappy, fresh summer veggies keep it light and energizing. You can bake or grill the chicken, so if you are firing up the grill for burgers, prep the chicken for this salad, and you will be set for a meal the following night.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The classic tuna pasta salad may hold a nostalgic place in your heart, but this one just might replace it. The mayo is cut with creamy yogurt for a lighter, tangier dressing, and the salad is spiked with scarlet bits of radicchio and slivers of mild, oniony leeks. Topping each serving with slices of seared tuna is much nicer than using canned—even fitting for guests. ½ ½ ¼ 2 1 2 ½ ½ 1 1 1 3 1

pound cavatappi or rotini pasta cup mayonnaise cup Greek yogurt, plain tablespoons champagne vinegar tablespoon Dijon mustard teaspoons dried tarragon teaspoon salt teaspoon black pepper can (14 ounces) artichoke hearts, drained and sliced large leek, sliced small radicchio, torn tablespoons capers, drained pound fresh tuna filets (or thawed frozen filets) coarse salt cracked black pepper tablespoon extra virgin olive oil parsley, for garnish

Dressing 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 3 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon cider vinegar ½ teaspoon salt Salad 4 ounces (4 cups) mixed greens 2 medium tomatoes, sliced 1 cup corn kernels from 1 ear whole sweet corn, or frozen 1 large red bell pepper, sliced

NUTRITION

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain well and let cool. 2. In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, vinegar, mustard, tarragon, salt and pepper and stir to mix. Add the pasta, artichokes, leeks, radicchio and capers and toss to mix. 3. Pat dry the tuna filet and sprinkle with coarse salt and pepper. 4. In a small skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat for 30 seconds, then place the tuna in the hot pan. Sear on each side for about 2 minutes, until browned but still pink in the center. Transfer the tuna to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes before slicing across the grain into thin strips. Serve the pasta in a low bowl with tuna spread across the top. Sprinkle with parsley.

GRILLED VEGETABLE & BRATWURST SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 484 (376 from fat); FAT 42g (sat. 13g); CHOL 68mg; SODIUM 1358mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 15g

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CREAMY PEANUT QUINOA SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 393 (155 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 7g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 376mg; CARB 46g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 16g

Chicken 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon cumin 2 teaspoons light brown sugar ½ teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F, or preheat the grill. In a small bowl, combine the chili powder, cumin, brown sugar and salt and mix well. Drizzle ½ tablespoon olive oil on a sheet pan, place the chicken breasts on it, and sprinkle the spice mixture over the chicken, turning to coat both sides. Drizzle the tops with ½ tablespoon of olive oil and pat to spread the oil over the spices. 2. Bake the chicken for about 20 to 25 minutes depending on the thickness of the filet. When the chicken reaches 160°F on an instant read thermometer, take it out to cool. To grill, oil the grate and cook the chicken over medium heat. When cool, slice across the grain in strips and reserve. 3. For the dressing: In a cup, stir the Dijon mustard, honey, vinegar, salt and remaining 4 tablespoons (¼ cup) of olive oil until smooth. 4. Spread the greens on four dinner plates and top with tomatoes, corn and red pepper, then the sliced chicken. Drizzle with the dressing and serve. ■

BACON ROASTED BROCCOLI & PORK NOODLES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 397 (121 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 5g); CHOL 54mg; SODIUM 1085mg; CARB 45g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 22g

CAVATAPPI W. TARRAGON DRESSING & TUNA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 565 (229 from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 5g); CHOL 45mg; SODIUM 949mg; CARB 51g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 32g

MIXED GREENS W. TOMATOES, CORN & SPICED CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 428 (198 from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 4g); CHOL 70mg; SODIUM 966mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 29g

Mixed Greens with Tomatoes, Corn and Spiced Chicken

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Take a Dip New hummus options and more serve up irresistible snacks or a light meal packed with good-for-you ingredients

e love dips. But don’t just think of them as party fare like that sour cream and onion dip your mom served with potato chips. Pick the right dip and you can make a meal of it. Dips made from beans,

yogurt and vegetables are real food, and dipping with whole-wheat pitas, crackers and vegetables makes the meal downright virtuous. The rise of hummus seemed like a short-term fad when it came on the scene a few years ago, but it shows no sign of fading away. The nutty flavors of chickpeas and sesame, spiked with lemon and garlic have captured our attention, and with it, a place in the dips section of the store. It doesn’t hurt that the dip is packed with protein, fiber and even some calcium to help us feel healthier while dipping. In addition to plain hummus served with a puddle of good olive oil on top—the way it has been made in the Middle East since antiquity— we like to take a riff on it in this melting pot. Now you will also find many ready-made flavors in the deli case. Once you try some of these fun hummus variations, branch out with a classic bean dip or a creamy yogurt dip. There is also good dipping to be had beyond hummus.

By Robin Asbell

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Classic Smooth Hummus (recipe page 40)

Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

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Classic Smooth Hummus with Variations MAKES 4 SERVINGS (ABOUT 1¾ CUPS BASE HUMMUS)

WHAT IS AQUAFABA? When you drain chickpeas to make hummus, don’t throw that liquid away. After years of pouring this bean-water down the drain, we have discovered a new use for it. Christened “aqua” after the Latin word for water, and “faba,” the Latin root word for beans, aquafaba is a fantastic egg substitute. To replace an egg in a recipe, use 3 tablespoons of aquafaba. Where aquafaba really excels is as a replacement for egg whites because it can be whipped to hold firm peaks for meringues, mousses and lofty cakes. Simply beat the aquafaba with a pinch of cream of tartar in a stand mixer or with an electric beater for about 5 minutes to get billowy “whites” to fold into batters.

If you have ever made hummus without peeling the beans, you will see just how big a difference this can make. If you don’t mind a little texture, by all means, skip the peeling step. This recipe includes some of the popular optional add-ins for hummus. If creativity strikes, add whatever sounds good to you. 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained, skinned if desired 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup tahini 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ¼ cup ice water 1 to 2 additional tablespoons fresh lemon juice, to taste salt, to taste extra virgin olive oil, for garnish paprika, for garnish

Flavor Variations (pick one, if desired): 1 (8-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained, patted dry and diced ½ cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, minced 4 large artichoke hearts, drained and diced 1 head roasted garlic (see Cook’s Note) 1 small chipotle chile canned in adobo, diced ¼ cup pesto sauce

pita bread, crackers, chips, sliced cucumber or veggies for dipping 1. Drain the chickpeas in a strainer set over a bowl, and save the juice (aquafaba), if desired (see left). Skin if desired (see Tricks of the Trade below). 2. With the machine running, drop the garlic cloves into the food processor bowl, mincing them finely. Pour the chickpeas through the feed tube, grinding them to a paste. Scrape down, add the salt, and repeat until a very smooth, thick paste is produced. Add the tahini, any flavor variations, if using, and purée to mix. With the machine running, drizzle in the lemon juice and ice water. If desired, add more water for a looser consistency. 3. Add more lemon and salt to taste. Serve drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with paprika. If desired, also top with a sprinkle of your optional flavor variation. Cook’s Note: To roast garlic, preheat the oven to 350°F. Peel garlic cloves and put them in an oven-safe ramekin or place on a square of foil. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil and cover or crimp the foil loosely around the garlic. Put the garlic in the oven for 20 minutes, shake it, and then bake an additional 10 minutes, depending on the size of the cloves. Uncover and pierce a clove with a paring knife; they are done when they are butter soft. Let cool. Do not chop before adding to this recipe.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE One trick that will make your homemade hummus just as velvety smooth as the ones you buy at the store is to skin the chickpeas. Whether you are using home-cooked or canned chickpeas, there is a thin, translucent skin wrapped around the soft center. To remove the skins, place the drained chickpeas in a large bowl and cover with cold water by 2 inches. Use your fingers to knead and squeeze the beans and pop off the skins without crushing the beans. The skins will float to the surface, where you can skim them off. Discard the skins, then drain the skinned chickpeas again.

NOTE: All hummus and dips will keep, tightly covered, for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

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Avocado Hummus Makes 4 servings (21/4 cups)

In this pale green dip, guacamole and hummus merge to create a lush, creamy fusion dip. Avocados are full of good fats and fiber, making this as nutritious as it is delicious. 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained, and skinned, if desired 2 large avocados, pitted ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons tahini 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1. Secure the lid of the food processor and turn it on, and drop the garlic clove in through the feed tube with the machine running. Turn the machine off, take off the lid, and scrape the garlic down. Add the drained (and skinned, if desired) chickpeas and avocado flesh. Process until very smooth. 2. Add the lemon, tahini, olive oil and salt and process, scraping the mixture up from the bottom to make sure it’s well combined. 3. Serve immediately or cover with plastic wrap, pressed down against the entire surface, before refrigerating.

Mediterranean White Bean Hummus Makes 4 servings (2 cups)

While chickpeas have their nutty, hearty charm, it’s fun to use white beans, which are mild and creamy. In this rendition, hummus gets a boost of flavor from Parmesan cheese and fresh rosemary.

1 (15-ounce) can white beans, drained 1 clove garlic, peeled ½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons tahini 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, plus a few sprigs for garnish ½ teaspoon salt

Optional Garnishes olive oil drizzle marinated artichoke hearts diced tomatoes mushrooms chopped parsley

1. Drain the white beans and reserve the juices to thin the dip, if necessary. Secure the lid of the food processor and turn it on. Drop the peeled garlic through the feed tube with the machine running. Scrape it down and add the beans, Parmesan and tahini and process until very smooth. Add the lemon juice, olive oil, rosemary and salt and process to mix well; the rosemary will be finely chopped, not puréed.

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Chocolate Hummus Makes 4 servings (2 cups)

Believe it or not, our beloved hummus can be made into a sweet, chocolaty dip. Try serving this with sliced apples and whole strawberries for dipping, without telling anyone that it’s made with beans. They may think it is a homemade Nutella and never be the wiser. It’s also great scooped up with pitas or bagels, for lunch or a snack. 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained, skinned if desired ¼ cup almond butter ½ cup cocoa

½ cup light brown sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla ½ cup water

1. Place the drained chickpeas, almond butter, cocoa and brown sugar in the food processor bowl. Process until a smooth paste is produced, scraping down once or twice to make sure all the beans are puréed. 2. Add the salt and vanilla. Turn on the machine and pour the water in through the feed tube with the machine running.

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Chipotle Bean Dip MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS (2 CUPS)

When you open a can of chipotles in adobo, you have a sweet, smoky flavor bomb, full of depth and complexity. Use two of the chilies in this dip, and if it seems mild to you, add some of the adobo sauce too. You can put the remaining chilies and sauce in a quart-sized freezer bag, spread them flat, and freeze them. Then you can break off a chile whenever you need it, for salsas, chili, marinades, or anything where you need a little smoky heat. The dip is fantastic solo, or in burritos or tostadas, but you have the option of making an old-school layered party dip, too, and loading it up with color, crunch and creamy sour cream. 1 ½ 2 2 1 1 1 ½

Indian Spinach Dip with Apple MAKES 4 SERVINGS (2 CUPS)

In India, there are lovely chutneys and raitas, which are served as condiments. They are so tasty that you might be tempted to simply eat them with a spoon. In this quick and easy Indian-inspired dip, tangy yogurt, savory curry spice and sweet, crunchy apples provide a mouthful of flavors and textures. 1 4 1 ½ 1

tablespoon chopped fresh ginger ounces (4 cups) salad spinach cup Greek yogurt, plain cup sour cream teaspoon curry powder

½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1 medium sweet apple, chopped chapati or pita breads

NUTRITION

1. In a food processor, place the ginger and spinach and secure the lid. Process until all the spinach and ginger are minced. Add the yogurt, sour cream, curry powder, salt and lemon juice and process, scraping down and repeating to make sure mixture is smooth. 2. Transfer to a bowl or storage tub and stir in the apples.

CLASSIC HUMMUS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 278 (151 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 498mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 10g

AVOCADO HUMMUS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 328 (206 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 3g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 772mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 10g; PROTEIN 8g

WHITE BEAN HUMMUS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 264 (128 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 4g); CHOL 10mg; SODIUM 721mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 13g

teaspoon extra virgin olive oil large onion, chopped cloves garlic, sliced medium chipotle chilies canned in adobo, or to taste (15-ounce) can red kidney beans, drained tablespoon fresh lime juice teaspoon cumin teaspoon salt

1. For the dip, drizzle the olive oil in a small sauté pan and place over medium heat, then add the onion and garlic. Sauté, stirring often, for about 10 minutes. When the onions are soft and golden, scrape them into the food processor bowl. Add the chipotle peppers, drained beans, lime, cumin and salt. Process until a smooth paste forms, scraping down and repeating as necessary. Cook’s Note: For a twist on the ever-popular layered dip, spread the bean dip in an 8-inch square glass baking dish. Spread 1 cup corn kernels (drained) over the top in an even layer, then 2 large chopped and drained tomatoes, 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese, 1 large jalapeño (seeded and chopped) and 1 cup sour cream. Sprinkle with 1⁄4 cup torn cilantro leaves and 1⁄4 cup pepitas, if desired, just before serving with corn chips. ■

CHOCOLATE HUMMUS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 287 (101 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 506mg; CARB 42g; FIBER 10g; PROTEIN 10g

INDIAN SPINACH DIP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 139 (63 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 4g); CHOL 20mg; SODIUM 358mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 8g

CHIPOTLE BEAN DIP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 322 (166 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 10g); CHOL 47mg; SODIUM 745mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 13g

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Sweet Summer

Embrace the bounty of seasonal fruits for a sweet ending to any meal

Recipes and photos by Linda Lomelino Rhubarb Summer Cake 46 real food summer 2017

n this global marketplace we have access to a great selection of produce throughout the year, but you can’t beat the bounty of summer fruit. From fresh berries and sweet cherries to juicy

stone fruit and more, stores are brimming with delicious possibilities to help you create a range of scrumptious, picture-perfect desserts. A touch of healthy, fresh fruit makes the dessert course just a little bit sweeter too. —Mary Subialka

Rhubarb Summer Cake Makes 8 to 10 slices

This is one of my most versatile recipes. It comes together easily and has so many tasty variations for every part of the growing season. In this version I’ve used rhubarb, but you can also try it with your favorite berries or stone fruit. Allow the butter, milk and egg to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before baking. Cake 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, ground pinch of salt 7 tablespoons salted butter, at room temperature ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or ¼ teaspoon vanilla powder ½ cup milk

Rhubarb Topping 5¼ ounces rhubarb 2 teaspoons granulated sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a pie pan or a 9- to 9¾-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper (see Tricks of the Trade, page 48). 2. For the cake batter: Mix the flour, baking powder, cardamom and salt in a medium bowl. 3. In a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar until light and creamy, about 4 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla and beat until smooth. 4. Alternate adding some of the milk and some of the dry ingredients, beating after each addition, until all ingredients have been incorporated. Beat until smooth. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. 5. For the rhubarb topping: Peel the rhubarb (if the outer layer is thick and fibrous) and cut into 2- to 3-inch-long pieces. If the pieces are wide, cut in half lengthwise to prevent the rhubarb from sinking to the bottom during baking. 6. Arrange the rhubarb pieces in a pretty pattern on top of the batter in the pan. Sprinkle with the sugar. 7. Bake the cake for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 300°F and bake for another 40 to 50 minutes, until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs. Leave in the pan to cool.

Apple and Cinnamon Variation Peel, core and slice 2 to 3 apples. Arrange the apple slices on top of the batter instead of the rhubarb. Mix 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon in a small bowl and sprinkle on top of the cake.

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Pavlova Roulade with Mascarpone and Raspberries Makes 8 to 10 slices

This cake is truly something special: a crispy but still soft meringue cake with a creamy filling and fresh berries. It’s uniquely perfect for a summer gathering. Tricks of the Trade: Lining Pans with Parchment Preparing a pan with parchment paper will make it easier to remove the cake from the pan after baking. This technique can be used for a pan of any size. Lining a round pan: Place the pan on a piece of parchment paper and trace around the bottom of the pan with a pencil. Cut out a circle just inside the traced line. Measure how much paper you will need to wrap all the way around the pan for the collar. Cut a piece of paper that length and about twice as high as the height of the pan. Cut small (about 1-inch deep) notches along one of the long sides of the paper strip. Coat the entire inside of the pan with butter. With the notched edge down, wrap the strip around the inside of the pan. Bend the notches inward to lie against the bottom of the pan. Coat the tops of the flaps with a little butter to seal. Lay the circle of parchment paper in the bottom of the pan so it fits snugly and press to seal. Lining a square/rectangular pan: Cut two long strips of parchment paper, each as wide as the pan and long enough to overhang each edge by 4 to 6 inches. Coat the inside of the pan with butter and lay in the first strip. Coat the section of the first strip that is in the bottom of the pan with more butter and lay in the second strip crossways. Press the bottom and sides to seal.

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ascarpone Filling M 1 cup mascarpone ⅔ cup whipping cream 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest Meringue Cake 4 large egg whites ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 1¾ ounces fresh raspberries 2½ ounces mixed fresh berries, for garnish confectioners’ sugar 1. For the Mascarpone Filling: Beat the mascarpone, whipping cream, confectioners’ sugar and lemon zest in a medium bowl until it forms a thick cream. Refrigerate while you make the cake. 2. Preheat the oven to 325°F. 3. To make the cake layers: Beat the egg whites in a large bowl until frothy and then add the sugar a little at a time with the mixer running. Continue to beat until the egg whites thicken into a rich, lofty consistency. You should be able to tip the bowl without the meringue falling out. Fold in the cornstarch and vinegar. 4. Line a 9½ x 13-inch baking pan with parchment paper and use a spoon or offset spatula to spread the meringue evenly to about ¾ inch thick. Bake in the center of the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until the meringue begins to brown slightly. Watch the browning process closely, as meringue can burn quickly. 5. Lay a clean baking towel on a work surface. Cover it with parchment paper and dust the entire piece of paper generously with confectioners’ sugar. 6. Remove the pan from oven and let cool for about 3 minutes, then turn the meringue cake out onto the sugared parchment paper. Peel off and discard the parchment paper used during baking. Let the meringue cool for about 10 minutes. 7. To assemble the roulade: Spread the filling in an even layer on the meringue cake, leaving 1¼ inches free of filling along one of the long sides. Sprinkle the raspberries over the filling. 8. With the other long side closest to you, carefully roll up the cake, working away from you and toward the edge that is free of filling. Use the parchment paper and towel to help with the rolling. Making sure that the overlapping edge ends up at the bottom, wrap the roulade well in the parchment and towel. Refrigerate for about 4 hours. 9. To serve, carefully transfer the roulade to a serving platter and decorate with xxxxxxxxxx mixed berries. Dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Pavlova Roulade with Mascarpone and Raspberries

Almond and Cherry Mini Pies

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Almond and Cherry Mini Pies MAKES 12 MINI PIES

These small pies are rather fussy to make but are well worth the effort. They are the perfect companion for afternoon coffee. The almond flour in the filling thickens it so it won’t spill out too much. Pie Crust 11⁄3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar pinch of salt 7 tablespoons cold salted butter, diced ¼ cup ice water

1 1 2 ¼

egg tablespoon milk tablespoons almond flour cup slivered almonds

1 tablespoon granulated sugar, for garnish

Cherry Filling 9 ounces cherries 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon kirsch (cherry brandy) 1⁄3 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or ¼ teaspoon vanilla powder 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 tablespoon water

NUTRITION

1. For the pie crust: Mix the flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Add the butter and pinch the ingredients together with your fingers until the dough is crumbly. 2. Add the cold water and carefully press dough together. Knead the dough only until it holds together. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. 3. For the filling: Pit the cherries and cut each in half. Put into a saucepan with the lemon juice, kirsch, sugar and vanilla and stir. Bring the mixture to a boil and then lower the heat and simmer for about 5 minutes, until the cherries have softened somewhat. 4. Stir the cornstarch and water in a small bowl until the cornstarch is dissolved, then stir into the mixture in the saucepan. Simmer on low heat and stir until the mixture thickens. Take the pan off the heat and let the filling cool completely. Refrigerate. 5. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 6. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured work surface until it is about ⅛ inch thick. Cut out as many small circles as possible from the rolled dough using a small cutter (or inverted glass). Gather up any leftover dough into a ball and wrap in plastic wrap; refrigerate for 20 minutes before rolling out again. Cut out more circles. 7. Whisk the egg and milk in a small bowl, then brush around the edge of half of the circles. Put about ½ teaspoon of the almond flour in the center of each circle. Add a bit of cherry filling and some almond slivers. Cover with another circle and, using a fork, press around the edges to seal each pie. 8. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Put the mini pies on the sheet and freeze for 10 to 15 minutes. 9. Cut small slits into the top of each pie. Brush the tops with the egg mixture and sprinkle with a bit of the sugar. Bake in the center of the oven for about 30 minutes, until the crust is golden. ■

RHUBARB SUMMER CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 236 (87 from fat); FAT 10g (sat. 6g); CHOL 45mg; SODIUM 185mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

PAVLOVA ROULADE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 253 (153 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 11g); CHOL 53mg; SODIUM 44mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

PHOTOS AND RECIPES FROM MY SWEET KITCHEN: RECIPES FOR CAKES, PIES, COOKIES, DONUTS, CUPCAKES, AND MORE BY LINDA LOMELINO © 2016. REPRINTED BY ARRANGEMENT WITH ROOST BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF SHAMBHALA PUBLICATIONS, INC. BOULDER, CO. WWW.ROOSTBOOKS.COM

ALMOND & CHERRY MINI PIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 185 (80 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 5g); CHOL 33mg; SODIUM 74mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

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52 real food summer 2017

Curious Cook Richard Blais helps home cooks create crave-worthy dishes with no liquid nitrogen needed by Tara Q. Thomas

When you hear the name Richard Blais, the first thing that might come to mind is his hair—a spiky field of wayward wisps he claims to style with a mixture of duck fat and liquid nitrogen. That hair (and that claim) echo his cooking style, a mixture of playful approach and avant-garde methods that often involve high-tech gadgets. That, after all, is the style of cooking that earned him an invitation to face off against Mario Batali in Iron Chef back in 2005, and launched him into celebrity chef status. Despite his loss to the orange-clogged superstar chef—“Not that I’m bitter about it… but I’m so bitter about it,” he quips one morning, recalling the “Battle Chickpeas” that did him in—Blais went on to compete in Top Chef, Top Chef Masters and Top Chef All-Stars. (“Of all the contestants on Top Chef, Richard Blais was easily the most fascinating to watch,” wrote Anthony Bourdain in Blais’s first book, Try This at Home.) When Blais isn’t on TV—which is almost never; he has also hosted Burger Lab, Cook Your A$$ Off, MasterChef and MasterChef Junior, as well as judged in a host of cooking shows—he runs Trail Blais, a consulting company that has produced a number of restaurants, including three branches of Flip Burger Boutique (two in Atlanta and another in Nashville), plus two restaurants in San Diego, his current home: the high-end Juniper and Ivy and Crack Shack, a casual place focused on chicken and eggs.

Yet, despite this litany of high-profile gigs, you might have more in common with Richard Blais than you would imagine. While his first book, Try This at Home, was focused on encouraging people to try their hand at molecular gastronomy, his new book, So Good: 100 Recipes from My Kitchen to Yours, is focused on the sort of food he actually whips up for his wife, Jazmin, a yoga teacher, and his two young girls, Riley and Embry. “The truth is, I cook more at home than I do at my restaurants,” he says. “If I’m at home, I’m cooking.” And while his comfort level with handheld smokers and live shrimp might exceed yours, at 6 p.m., he’s facing the same challenge you do: “Everyone comes home from work, you’ve got kids running around, you’re hungry, you’ve got 30 minutes to get dinner together. How do you do that?” As Blais points out, it’s your very own Quickfire Challenge, in which you have a half hour to figure out how to assemble dinner from whatever is in your larder that day. In some ways, this is harder than the job of a chef. Blais, who trained in the kitchens of Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud before finding his way to TV, points out that chefs work with teams that make sure stocks are made, sauces prepared and ingredients prepped before they begin cooking dinner. This is called mise en place in kitchen parlance—having all your ingredients and tools ready to go for the dish you’re preparing, so that it comes together quickly and easily. “This is the hardest

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book initially: to encourage people to just open the fridge and cook.” —Richard Blais

photos and recipe Reprinted From So Good by Richard Blais. Copyright © 2017 by Richard Blais and Evan Sung. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved. photography by Evan Sung.

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photo Evan Sung

“That was the core of the

thing about cooking on TV,” Blais says. “You’re never starting with any mise en place.” At home, you are at least one step closer to having some mise en place assembled: It’s called leftovers. Somehow, though, if you call them leftovers, they seem less appealing. “It’s ironic,” says Blais. “Yesterday, I asked my youngest, Embry, ‘How was the asparagus at lunch?’ She said, ‘I didn’t eat it because it’s leftovers.’ It wasn’t like it was four days old; it was blanched asparagus from the night before!” Blais suggests that we view leftovers as an opportunity, a chance to take a dish to another level. “It’s when you start rooting around in the fridge and say, ‘Okay, I have some roasted chicken fat; I can make that part of a vinaigrette for salmon.’ Now you’re a chef; you’re accumulating mise en place in the fridge.” In fact, Blais suggests, let’s just forget the word “leftovers.” From now on, it’s “accumulated mise en place.” Don’t they look better already? The pantry doesn’t have to be full of fancy ingredients, either—though Blais confesses a chef-y love for unusual condiments such as pineapple vinegar and Kewpie mayonnaise that can take a dish to another level with minimal effort. One of his recipes, sea bass with ginger beer, was based on a leftover item he found in his fridge. “That was back when a lot of chefs were doing things like braising pork shoulder in root beer, or glazing meat in Cola-Cola,” he recalls. “I thought, no one has done this with seafood.

I found some ginger beer while rooting around in the fridge, and thought: ‘It’s got the sweetness because it’s soda, and the spice with the ginger; why not cook it down and butter it out?’ ” With a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of chopped cilantro over the top, no one would know that the dish was borne from random fridge contents. This sort of openness to riff on known flavor combinations in new ways does take a certain degree of comfort in the kitchen, and Blais works throughout So Good to demonstrate how you might tweak a recipe to allow for the fact that you’re missing an ingredient, or just plain don’t like one. If you’re not a fan of anchovies, for instance, he suggests using a splash of fish sauce instead for a subtler note of umami; if you can’t get goat (or don’t want to) for his curry pot pie, use lamb or any other meat you want. “That was the core of the book initially: to encourage people to just open the fridge and cook,” Blais explains. At the same time, he wants you to think about the choices you’re making. Sometimes, he points out, our comfort level with food is based on not knowing the less pretty truths behind it. “I think people should be eating all types of foods,” he says. “You have to be sustainably minded, whether it’s seafood or meat or veg—and you have to instill it in your kids.” That, to him, means eating widely and embracing alternative ingredients, whether it’s rabbit or horse carrots for a braise. Perhaps unsurprisingly for a guy raised on Long Island, this attitude comes through most strongly in his treatment of seafood. Blais and seafood go way back. “My first job was at a little restaurant you may have heard of called McDonald’s,” he quips. “I was the poissonier, which is fancy French for fish cook.” (Never mind that on his very first Filet-O-Fish order, he forgot the top bun, already showing a proclivity for avant-garde presentations.) Then, after training at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., he went back for a fellowship in the fish kitchen, a gig that required long days in a wet, 45˚F, tile-coated room teaching people how to hold, cut and cook fish. “You become some sort of amphibious sea creature,” Blais remembers,“every day trying to scrape fish scales off your clothes.” The lead chef-instructor was Corky Clark, one of the Culinary Institute of America’s most legendary teachers, feared as much as he was admired for his insistence that every single fish was treated with the utmost care and respect.

Blais has never forgotten the lessons Chef Clark imparted, and now that Blais lives in southern California, where fresh seafood is easy to come by, he is even more focused on it. Yet, he acknowledges, while it can be a fast, healthy, delicious alternative to meat, it is intimidating to a number of people. Even many TV shows don’t want him to cook fish, he says. “They have these lists of what works, and chicken starts to dominate the conversation.” That’s too bad, especially because when we do cook seafood, we tend to go for what is least intimidating, like shrimp. He groans at the mere mention. “We could talk about that for hours…” In So Good, he devotes an entire page to explaining why it’s important to know where your shrimp come from, and be willing to pay more for shrimp raised or caught in environmentally friendly ways, instead of supporting the under-regulated, antibiotic-ridden farms in Asia that turn out several million tons of shrimp every year. Even better, he says, is to treat shrimp as the special-occasion treat it once was, and splurge for the really good stuff. In fact, if there is anything intimidating about seafood, it’s in the buying. Freshness isn’t the only thing that matters; sustainability is high on Blais’s list of priorities. He advises downloading the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s free Seafood Watch app, which gives up-to-date information on oceanfriendly choices and suggests alternatives to overfished varieties. Beyond that, Blais advises taking a brazen approach. “At the end of the day, fish cookery comes down to a hot pan,” he writes in So Good. “Don’t be afraid to let it get really hot.” Smoking hot, even, so that when the fish hits the pan, it sears quickly and won’t stick. Try it with the Sea Bass with Ginger Beer and Bok Choy (right), a recipe so simple it would be hard to mess up. Or check out the Salmon Tail with Bacon and Lentils, a dish so stunning in presentation and deep, meaty flavor that you may never go back to salmon steaks. Is it a little crazy to serve a fish in a soda pop sauce, or to present your guests with a roasted salmon tail? Maybe. But it is also just making the best of the wide world of flavors and ingredients all around us. Be brazen in the kitchen and see where it takes you; that’s the Blais approach. 

Sea Bass with Ginger Beer and Bok Choy Makes 4 servings

You could call this an entry-level fish dish—it’s that easy. But beyond its simplicity, the fatty lusciousness of sea bass contrasts gorgeously with the crunch of bok choy and the spiciness of the sauce spiked with ginger beer.

1 bunch bok choy (about 1 pound) kosher salt 4 Chilean sea bass fillets (6 to 8 ounces each) (see Cook's Note) freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter 1 (12-ounce) bottle ginger beer 1 1-inch knob fresh ginger, peeled and grated juice of 1 lime 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, or 2 lime leaves, sliced (optional) 1. Trim the bok choy and cut out any thick stems. 2. Rinse under cool, running water and shake most of the water from the leaves. 3. Pour water into a large, deep skillet to a depth of 2 inches or so and season lightly with salt. Put a steamer basket over the water and bring to a boil over high heat. Put the bok choy leaves (they don’t have to be dry) in the skillet, salt lightly, cover the pan, and reduce the heat to medium. Steam the bok choy until the leaves wilt, 7 to 9 minutes. Remove the lid from the skillet and continue cooking for about 1 minute to evaporate any excess water clinging to the leaves (there will be some water in the pan, but no worries). 4. Meanwhile, season the sea bass fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. 5. In a large sauté pan, heat the sesame oil with 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-high heat. When hot, add the fillets and cook until golden brown and cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove the fillets from the heat, set aside on a plate, and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. 6. Pour the ginger beer into the sauté pan (after you’ve taken a few nips yourself) and stir to mix with the pan juices. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat a little, and simmer until the beer evaporates, leaving a thickish, slightly oozy glaze in the pan, 8 to 10 minutes. As the pan sauce simmers, stir it with a wooden spoon to scrape any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. 7. Add the grated ginger and lime juice to the pan and swirl to mix. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter and stir until the pan sauce is smooth and thick. 8. Serve the fillets on top of the wilted bok choy. Spoon a little sauce over the fish and garnish with the cilantro, if desired. Cook's Note: Chilean sea bass is pretty expensive and rare. If you can’t find it or would rather use another fish, try black cod (also called Alaskan sablefish). It’s more affordable and plentiful in our oceans, and it has a similar buttery texture and mild but delicious flavor as sea bass. I always check with the Seafood Watch app, which is run by the greatly respected Monterey Bay Aquarium. This keeps me up to date with what fish are currently sustainable and good choices.

summer 2017 real food 55

pairings

A Brew for You Like white or red wine, there is a beer to make a pleasing partner with the foods you enjoy BY MARY SUBIALKA

et aside your corkscrew and grab a bottle opener. When you are kicking back on the deck or patio this summer, sometimes only cracking open a cold brew will do. And beer pairs quite nicely with sizzling selections from the grill—and even some desserts. The lighter styles of beer complement foods usually served with white wine, and heartier beers pair better with foods traditionally served with red. Summer seasonals are often wheat beers, which are lighter styles. Light and refreshing German wheat beers, weizen or Hefeweizen, are excellent with burgers, brats and pork as well as seafood, including lobster. Bock’s sweetness with a touch of bitterness also pairs well with grilled pork and is a classic with sausages. Try pilsner with the spicy flavors of barbecued food. And, just as a white wine is a good choice with most fish and chicken, so too is a hoppy pilsner— especially with a bit of spice on that bird. The ever-popular IPA marries well with grilled burgers and steak since the caramelized flavors from firing up the meat echo the caramelized notes in the beer, while its bitter hop notes provide contrast. And the more robust Trappist and abbey ales as well as stouts, such as Guinness, work nicely with steak or ribs. A little twist of fruit adds a nice touch to a refreshing brew and many fruit beers have just the right tart-sweet blend of flavors to help top off a meal alongside custard, fruit pie or tarts and other fruit dishes. A peach lambic could even pair with vanilla ice cream, and fans of stout may take the “rocky road” less traveled. As with all food and beverage pairings, your taste preferences come into play, but crack open a cold brew instead of uncorking wine with dinner on the deck and you just might discover a new favorite match. ■ PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food summer 2017

A celebration of cocktails? An evening of sampling high-end spirits from around the world while enjoying gourmet bites.

Yes, please. Thursday, July 27 Orchestra Hall VIP Early Admission: 5:30-6:30 p.m. Main Tasting: 6:30-9 p.m. Tickets now on sale

Your ticket includes all samples and tastings.

finespiritsclassic.com

Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Summer 2017

Articles inside

Sweet Summer

Take a Dip

Simplify Summer

Fire It Up