worked at Gourmet Gourmet, we had a column called Sugar & Spice where people would write in with recipes, and we had to test them. It really showed me that good home cooks are no different than restaurant chefs. They, too, make the same thing over and over; they perfect their recipes.” Her experience with call-ins on cooking shows only reinforced this belief. “Usually [people] called to ask questions, but sometimes they’d call to tell me how to do something. I remember one person taking me all the way through the process of making sauerkraut.” At the same time, Moulton worries that there might be fewer able home cooks today than there were 20 years ago. “There is so much more information out there,” she says, “and everybody talks the talk because of Internet and food TV. But my question is, are they actually cooking, or do they just know what panko is?” In Home Cooking 101, Moulton manages to address each of those audiences, putting forth a primer for those who have spent more time watching than doing, as well as plenty of aspirational dishes for people looking to step up their technique. How you engage with it doesn’t matter so long as you’re cooking, she says. “When people ask me for advice, I really do just tell them: just cook! There are only two things you can’t fix: If you burnt it, or if you put your potatoes in a food processor—you will have wallpaper paste; those potatoes are done, over for the world.” If you avoid those pitfalls, you’re good to go. Perfection, she suggests, is overrated when it comes to a home-cooked dinner. “Julia used to say, ‘Never apologize, never explain,’” Moulton says. “Nobody cares as much as you do; they just want to relax and have fun.” ■
PHOTOS AND RECIPE EXCERPTED FROM SARA MOULTON’S HOME COOKING 101: HOW TO MAKE EVERYTHING TASTE BETTER BY SARA MOULTON. COPYRIGHT © 2016 SARA MOULTON. REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM OXMOOR HOUSE, AN IMPRINT OF TIME INC. BOOKS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Seared Scallop Salad with Spicy Watermelon Vinaigrette MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 cup chopped seedless watermelon 2 large makrut lime leaves (aka kaffir lime leaves), or 2 teaspoons freshly grated lime zest 1x 1-inch piece peeled ginger, coarsely chopped 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1⁄2 to 1 serrano chile, coarsely chopped with the seeds 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 11⁄2 teaspoons fish sauce (I like the Tiparos and Three Crabs brands) 1 teaspoon sugar 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, preferably grapeseed, divided Kosher salt 2 cups torn fresh mint or cilantro leaves or a mix of both 2 cups coarsely shredded carrots 4 cups shredded napa cabbage 1 large red bell pepper, medium chopped 1⁄2 cup chopped toasted cashews, optional Wondra flour or all-purpose flour for dredging 1 pound medium sea scallops, preferably dry or day boat, cleaned freshly ground black pepper 1. Combine the watermelon, makrut lime leaves or lime zest, ginger, garlic, serrano chile, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and 3 tablespoons of the oil in a blender and puree until smooth. Add salt to taste. Set the dressing aside. 2. Combine the mint, carrots, cabbage, bell pepper and cashews, if using, in a large bowl and set the salad aside. 3. Spread out the flour on a piece of parchment on the counter. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Working in batches, toss the scallops in the flour, lifting the parchment paper on both sides to move the scallops around; transfer the scallops to a strainer and shake off the excess flour. 4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the scallops to the skillet, reduce the heat to medium, and sauté for 2 minutes per side or until just cooked through. Transfer with tongs to a plate and set aside to cool slightly. 5. Add half the dressing to the salad and toss well. Divide the mixture among 4 plates, top each portion with some of the scallops, and drizzle with extra dressing.
summer 2016 real food 55