Lunds and Byerlys REAL FOOD Summer 2016

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Lunds & Byerlys real food summer 2016

Lunds & Byerlys























volume 12 number 2

with Kids

Healthy, easy meals for the entire family 03


COOL CREATIONS: Salads keep it light for summer NOURISHMENT IN NATURE: Pack a picnic CUT THE SUGAR: You’re sweet enough




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real food summer 2016

Features 20 Short Order Cooks Cooking with kids: Real food and real fun BY JASON ROSS

32 Salad Days Cool creations keep it light for summer heat BY ROBIN ASBELL

38 Nourishment in Nature Break away from the everyday and pack a picnic BY ROBIN ASBELL

46 Food, Glorious Food Plant-based whole foods, sans refined sugar BY ELLA LECHÉ

52 Sara Moulton TV chef turns champion for the home cook BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Fresh Flavors: Gazpacho and chimichurri RECIPES BY AMY CHAPLIN

6 Kitchen Skills Perfect your grilling techniques BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Chickpeas: The “new” superfood BY KYLE SMELTER

18 Healthy Habits Healthier favorites: Chicken Kiev and wings BY DANII MARTIN

56 Pairings Stir things up with cocktails and food BY MARY SUBIALKA

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Our Cover

Fresh Pasta with Shucked Peas and Bacon (page 22). Photographs by Terry Brennan


VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA.

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.


Fresh Produce, Fresh Flavors Seasonal starters for your next cookout


hen the summer months hit, there is nothing quite like cooking with fresh produce. Impress your family and friends with aromatic recipes featuring fresh herbs and crisp vegetables. Summer cooking is a great time to shop for in-season goods; they’re healthy and delicious. If you are using fresh ingredients, eating green never has to mean bland—using tomatoes, cumin, chilies, basil and jalapeños will add a natural zest. The two recipes featured here are seamless starters from Amy Chaplin’s James Beard Top Pick Cookbook At Home in the Whole Food Kitchen: Celebrating the Art of Eating Well. Perfect delights for the hottest of days, neither the savory chimichurri sauce nor the smooth gazpacho require you to heat up your kitchen. Just make sure to leave a little of each for your guests. — Laura Schmidt


Gazpacho with Heirloom Tomatoes SERVES 4 TO 6

As soon as tomatoes hit the stands at the farmers’ market, the weather is hot enough to crave gazpacho. Sometimes, sipping a cup of this tangy herbal goodness is the only remedy for summer in the city. Having a jar of it in the fridge is a good idea any time the temperature is soaring, and you’ll love not having to heat up your kitchen to make it—all you need is a blender. Light and refreshing, gazpacho is a perfect make-ahead starter for a summer dinner party. I love to garnish the bowls with an array of colored tomatoes, but you can also add cucumbers, more herbs and even a little crumbled feta to dress it up. 9 medium-large ripe tomatoes (31⁄2 pounds), roughly chopped 1 garlic clove, or more to taste 1 medium jalapeño, seeded 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, divided sea salt 3 tablespoons minced red onion 1⁄4 cup chopped cilantro leaves 1⁄4 cup finely sliced basil (about 10 leaves)

To garnish: 3 to 4 mixed heirloom tomatoes, sliced in thin wedges 1⁄2 cup colored cherry tomatoes, halved cilantro leaves extra virgin olive oil

1. Place about one-third of the tomatoes in an upright blender; add minced garlic, jalapeño, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar and a pinch of salt. Blend on highest speed for 1 to 2 minutes or until completely smooth. Pour into a large bowl and repeat with remaining tomatoes, olive oil and vinegar in two more batches. Add to bowl and taste for heat, returning 1 cup soup to blender if you want to blend in more jalapeño. Stir in onion, cilantro and basil, and season to taste. Place in the fridge for 1 to 2 hours or until cool. Gazpacho is best the day it’s made, but anything left over can be kept in the fridge for a couple of days. 2. To serve, divide gazpacho between bowls, jars or glasses, and top with a couple wedges of colored heirloom tomatoes, a few cherry tomato halves, cilantro leaves and a drizzle of olive oil. Note: Since the heat of jalapeños varies so much, try adding a little at a time while blending the soup. If it’s still not spicy enough, add some of the seeds.

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Chimichurri Sauce MAKES ABOUT 11⁄4 CUPS

No matter where I am, the bright, herbaceous flavor of chimichurri sauce instantly reminds me of long summer evenings cooking and eating outdoors. Originally from Argentina, chimichurri was traditionally made with parsley, olive oil, garlic and vinegar and served with grilled meats, but these days, you can find it made with many different herb and vinegar combinations. Its tangy flavor is truly a revelation and successfully livens up anything you put it on—simple grilled tofu and grilled veggies—or as a sauce for beans and grains. Chimichurri can be made by blending all the ingredients in a food processor, but I like the rustic texture of the sauce when everything is chopped by hand; it also means you can prepare it outdoors by the grill in summer. 3⁄4 3⁄4 1⁄4 1 4 3⁄4 1⁄2 1⁄4 3⁄4 3⁄4

cup chopped cilantro cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped mint leaves tablespoon chopped oregano garlic cloves, minced teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon red chili flakes cup red wine vinegar teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste cup mild extra virgin olive oil

1. In a medium bowl, combine all chopped herbs, garlic, cumin and chili flakes. Add red wine vinegar and salt, then whisk in olive oil. Season to taste and serve, or store in a jar in the fridge for a few days. Bring up to room temperature before serving. ■


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kitchen skills

Grilling Techniques Perfect the art of direct, indirect and smoking BY JASON ROSS


his summer, get the most out of your grill to use it for small cuts that benefit from quick, intense heat; for larger cuts that require slower, less intense heat; and as a smoker for big flavor. A split-heat grill setup helps control heat, whether charcoal or gas. Split your grill into two parts with one side on high heat, the other on low. For charcoal, pile it on one side of the grill. When hot, rake one-fourth of charcoal to the low-heat side, leaving the remainder on the hot side. With a gas or propane grill, set heat on one side to high and the other to low.


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DIRECT-HEAT GRILLING This is true grilling, with direct radiant heat coming from underneath the cooking surface. This is best for burgers, firm-fleshed fish and small, tender cuts of meat. For this method, the low-heat side serves two purposes. If the grill gets too hot or flares up, it is a spot to quickly move food until the flames cool down. When meat has nice grill marks but a still-rare interior, use the low-heat side to finish cooking without adding too much char. Salmon steaks are made for high heat. Pair with this bright green take on pesto.

Grilled Salmon Steaks with Parsley Walnut Pesto MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Parsley Walnut Pesto 1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar ½ tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon salt ½ bunch parsley, finely minced ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup chopped walnuts

Grilled Salmon Steaks 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 4 1-inch-thick 8-ounce salmon steaks 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ tablespoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper

1. For the pesto: In a small mixing bowl, toss shallot, vinegar, lemon juice and salt. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes to soften flavors. Add parsley, oil and walnuts. Store refrigerated in a tightly sealed container up to 7 days. Serve at room temperature. 2. For the salmon: Prepare grill with one side on high heat and the other on low. Clean and scrape grill. Brush with a thin layer of vegetable oil. 3. When grill is hot, brush salmon with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on hot side of grill and cook 2 minutes. Rotate a quarter turn and cook 2 minutes. Fish should have diamond-shaped grill marks. Flip salmon and cook 2 minutes. Rotate a quarter turn and cook 2 minutes. 4. Test for doneness. Salmon should feel firm and pull along flesh lines. If fish is too rare, transfer to low-heat side of grill. Cover and cook until done. Serve warm with pesto.



Call this “grill roasting,” as this uses indirect convection heat in an enclosed space. The goal is a crispy, brown exterior with loads of flavor. Use this for large cuts of meats or fish; whole, bone-in cuts; or even whole hogs for large parties. Cook on the low-heat side with the grill covered. The heat from the hot side powers the convection heat and slows the cooking, making it possible to cook larger cuts through without burning the exterior. If you try to grill whole or split chicken with direct heat, it will be charred on the outside and rare on the inside. Instead, set up your grill for indirect grilling and get perfectly cooked meat with lots of flavor.

Transform your grill into a smoker with a disposable aluminum tray filled with wood chips. Place it directly on the coals or gas burner on the hot side of the grill while cooking foods on the low-heat side. Cover the grill to create a billowing smoke chamber. The goal is to deeply flavor foods with wood and smoke. Smoking works best with meats and fish that have enough fat content to prevent them from drying out while cooking.

Split Roasted Chicken MAKES 4 SERVINGS

½ 1 ½ ¼ 2 1 1

cup olive oil tablespoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon red pepper flakes tablespoons lemon juice halved chicken tablespoon vegetable oil


1. In a large mixing bowl, combine olive oil, salt, pepper, red pepper and lemon juice. Reserve ¼ cup of mixture in a small bowl for basting. 2. Coat chicken with marinade. Let sit and marinate at room temperature while you prepare the grill; alternately, wrap and refrigerate overnight. 3. Prepare grill with one side on high heat and the other on low. Clean and scrape grill. Brush with a thin layer of vegetable oil. Lay chicken on low-heat side of grill skin side up. Cover and cook 20 minutes. Using vents, keep grill at 325°F to 375°F. Check chicken periodically and baste with marinade. 4. Carefully flip chicken and cook 20 minutes. Check periodically and baste with marinade. Using a meat thermometer, check for doneness in thickest part of chicken. Meat is done when it reaches 165°F.


Smoked Pork Chops with Grilled Plums MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 1 1 ½ ½ ½ 4 ¼ 1 1 4 1 2

cup hickory or fruit wood chips tablespoon brown sugar tablespoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon dried thyme 1¼-inch-thick 8-ounce pork chops cup honey tablespoon lemon juice tablespoon vegetable oil plums, halved and pitted tablespoon balsamic vinegar tablespoons olive oil

1. In a small bowl, soak wood chips in enough water to cover, at least 20 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, in a small mixing bowl, combine sugar, salt, pepper, cumin and thyme. Generously coat pork chops with spice mix, rubbing in with your hands. Let sit at room temperature while you prepare grill; alternately, wrap and refrigerate overnight. 3. In a small saucepan over low heat, warm honey and lemon juice until uniform. Reserve in a bowl for basting. 4. Prepare grill with one side on high heat and the other with low to no heat. Remove grill grate from hot side before it heats up for easy access. Clean and scrape grill. Brush with a thin layer of vegetable oil. 5. When grill is hot, strain wood chips and place in a small aluminum roasting tray. Place directly on fire on hot side of grill. Wait 5 minutes for chips to begin to smoke. Lay chops on cool side of grill. Close grill, letting chamber fill with smoke, and smoke chops 15 minutes. Using vents, keep grill at 325°F to 375°F. 6. Stand back and carefully open cover; there will be a large puff of smoke. Brush chops with honey-lemon mixture and flip. Cover and smoke 15 minutes. 7. Carefully open grill. Check doneness by inserting a meat thermometer into center of chops close to bone. They are done when they reach 145°F. 8. Place grill grate over hot side. Brush chops with any remaining honey mixture. Move chops to hot side of the grill. The heat will caramelize the honey and glaze the chops after roughly 1 minute per side. Be careful not to let it burn, just crisp and brown. 9. Grill plums 1 minute on hot side of grill or until lightly charred on 1 side. Drizzle plums with balsamic and olive oil. Serve warm. ■

SPLIT ROASTED CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 478 (303 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 8g); CHOL 132mg; SODIUM 1007mg; CARB 0g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 41g

SMOKED PORK CHOPS W. GRILLED PLUMS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 563 (247 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 8g); CHOL 141mg; SODIUM 1856mg; CARB 29g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 50g

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Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to add special touches to dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains, with an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is The Whole Grain Promise, More Than 100 Recipes to Jumpstart a Healthier Diet and she is the author of Juice It!, Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat No Dairy All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta: More than 100 Fast and Flavorful Recipes with Low- and No-Carb Options.

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis, Minn. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Tara Q. Thomas

intended to be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, but got sidetracked by wine. She’s been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is Executive Editor. Author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and a contributor to the forthcoming Oxford Companions to cheese and to spirits, she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, N.Y., juggling laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

Ella Leché

Jason Ross

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minn., home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

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is the popular blogger behind PureElla. com and a survivor of the neuromuscular disease myasthenia gravis. After healing her body with food, Ella became passionate about sharing the recipes that helped her achieve wellness. Today, she relishes the “pure” life and lives in Toronto with her husband and two young daughters.

Terry Brennan

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

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Retailer of the Year A cross this great country there are thousands of independent grocery retailers. Most, like us, are family-owned companies committed to strengthening the communities they’re in by creating jobs, supporting local non-profits and doing a masterful job of serving their customers. We take a tremendous amount of pride in the fact that the independent nature of our company means we only have to answer to our family of employees and customers. We’re also proud to have been recently named Grocery Headquarters magazine’s Independent Retailer of the Year. I share this with you for two key reasons. First, it’s an opportunity to publically acknowledge our amazingly talented staff that is so passionate about providing you with extraordinary food, exceptional service and passionate expertise. The other reason for sharing this national recognition is to thank you, our customers, for the frequent feedback you provide us about your shopping experiences. Feedback truly is a gift, and we are always grateful when someone is willing to take the time to provide it—whether it’s in person at one of our stores, over the phone or online through our social media channels and Voice of the Customer surveys. Positive feedback provides added motivation to continue focusing on those things we’re doing well. Critical feedback, which is equally important, drives us to find ways to create an even better shopping experience. All feedback is deeply appreciated and valued as we strive to provide a sensational shopping experience. In recent months we have received overwhelmingly positive feedback about our new Reserve Aged Choice Beef. Led by the remarkable culinary insights of Michael

Selby, one of our executive chefs, we have developed an innovative, patentpending process for aging beef. The result is a phenomenal beef that you Tres can get only at our Lund stores. I encourage you to learn more about it on page 13. Another new offering in our meat and seafood departments is sustainable shrimp from right here in the United States. As we look to continue providing you with more and more Responsibly Sourced seafood choices we have partnered with Copano Blues, which is located on Copano Bay in Texas. They are growing ethically and environmentally sustainable shrimp that has earned a “Best Choice” rating from the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program. You can learn more about this partnership on pages 10–11. These are just a couple of the countless reasons I’m proud of the individuals who are serving you every day. As I mentioned earlier, we’re honored that one of our industry’s leading publications recognized our team as this year’s Independent Retailer of the Year. While the recognition is appreciated, more than anything it inspires us to raise the bar even further as we strive to surprise and delight you every time you’re in our stores. On behalf of our entire family of employees, thank you for choosing to shop with us! Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys seafood

Copano Blues Shrimp W


e know responsibly sourced seafood is important to many of you, and it’s important to us, too. That’s why we continue to expand our wild-caught and farm-raised seafood offerings through partnerships with organizations that ensure fisheries are utilizing sustainable practices that preserve and improve our oceans’ ecosystems. I’m excited to tell you about our new partner, Copano Blues Shrimp Farm, which is growing ethically and environmentally sustainable shrimp right here in the United States. Their shrimp is rated a “Best Choice” by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. Our partnership with Copano Blues felt like a natural fit from the start since, much like Lunds & Byerlys, the family-owned and operated business is intensely passionate about providing customers with the best fully traceable and sustainable product possible. In February I had the opportunity to head down to Taft, Texas, to check out this state-ofthe-art farm located on Copano Bay on the Gulf of Mexico. My visit gave me an up close and personal look at one of the most sustainable, groundbreaking aquaculture facilities in the world. Copano Blues shrimp are produced with a new proprietary technology called Closed Loop BioSecure Recirculating Aquaculture System (RAS). While this sounds complicated, RAS essentially means all aspects of the environment are carefully controlled and perfectly maintained so the shrimp can grow naturally. Unlike traditional farmed shrimp, Copano Blues shrimp grow faster and larger without the use of antibiotics, chemicals or hormones due to the farm’s advanced biosecurity. From hatchery to production ponds, all parts of the farm are covered by large air domes—much like a sports dome. These huge domes protect the shrimp from damaging airborne diseases and pests while also maintaining a warm, humid environment in which the shrimp thrive.

The sheer size of the shrimp ponds is impressive. They are filled with salt water from Copano Bay since the bay is a natural nursery for gulf shrimp. Once the water enters the farm it never leaves. Instead, millions of gallons of water are cleaned naturally and recycled back into the shrimp ponds. This allows Copano Blues to maintain superior water quality in its ponds while never discharging any pollutants into local bays. A win-win. The technology at Copano Blues is very impressive and leads to better tasting, higher-quality shrimp. Copano Blues shrimp have a robust natural, sweet flavor and crisp, firm texture. The raw shrimp have an attractive blue hue that turns to a bright orange when cooked. I think you’ll find these shrimp are out-of-this-world delicious on their own—no cocktail sauce or spices needed. Or try them in your favorite shrimp recipe and see how versatile they truly are. We’re excited for you to try these Americangrown shrimp for yourself! Visit any of our meat and seafood departments to find Copano Blues shrimp. ■

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Lunds & Byerlys sssssss real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys deli



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uper-fragile-calorie-realistic-exceptional-dosein-a-dish. While not a direct quote from Ms. Poppins herself, I think she keeps a stash of superfoods in her bag of tricks. Why? Because superfoods are magically awesome and just a spoonful will do ya. Superfoods are health-empowering foods that are exceptionally high in nutrient density and loaded with phytochemicals. This is where the magic comes in. “Phyto” means plant, and so phytochemicals are essentially nutrient-dense chemical compounds that are good for you and found in plant foods such as fruits, vegetables, beans, whole grains, nuts and seeds. In general, these chemical compounds give plant-based foods their beautiful color, aroma and flavor. So how can you easily get all this goodness in your diet? I’m so glad you asked! Recently I created a Superfood Salad for our delis. I packed this salad with 10 superfoods—heirloom wheat berries, quinoa, edamame, kale, almonds, dried blueberries, dried cherries, chia seeds, honey and green tea. The Superfood Salad is loaded with quality nutrition from all those colorful phytochemicals we just talked about, and it’s a powerhouse of flavor in your mouth. Because different phytochemicals are linked to different colored fruits and vegetables, eating a variety of colorful fruits and vegetables will mean you’re ingesting a wide variety of phytochemicals, so be sure to mix it up. That deep rich color of fruits and vegetables indicates a high level of phytochemicals and nutrients. A good rule of thumb in choosing superfoods is to look for fresh foods that contain all the colors of the rainbow. According to The American Society for Clinical Nutrition, the different compounds within phytochemicals can “optimize your health and reduce the risk of chronic diseases.” Who knew? Mary Poppins did, that’s who. Our Superfood Salad is available in the deli service case at all of our stores. Stop by and ask for a sample. I’m pretty sure your taste buds and your body will agree it’s a spoonful of delicious medicine. ■

Lunds & Byerlys meat department


ur journey to create a truly unique, aged beef began at the dinner table. Dozens of meals in cities all across the country led to inspiration—and a really full stomach. What followed was the creation of our Reserve Aged Choice Beef, available only at Lunds & Byerlys. In 2012 we began to look for ways to expand our premium choice beef selection. We spent the next few years traveling across the country—from New York to San Francisco and from South Florida to the Pacific Northwest—to taste beef. Lots of beef! At each stop we observed tried-and-true aging methods from some of the world’s most famous steakhouses and butcher shops. And, along the way, we met an incredible collection of steak connoisseurs who provided invaluable insights into these numerous aging methods. Following our travels, we spent time in the Lunds & Byerlys research and development kitchen trying out classic aging techniques for both wet-aged and dry-aged beef. We started experimenting with the basic principles of dry aging and then began to

combine several aspects of old-world aging techniques in different combinations, and with varying temperatures and levels of humidity. Our research and experimentation ultimately led to the creation of our Reserve Aged Choice Beef. It’s skillfully aged for a minimum of 28 days to achieve optimum flavor and tenderness. The end result is an incredibly bold flavor with rich, nutty tones. In fact, much like an oak barrel promotes the aging of wine, we use untreated cedar to provide an incredible depth of flavor to the beef. The cedar also serves to accentuate the subtle aromas of the beef, while providing a tenderness that is unmatched. If steak is what you’re after, try our Reserve Aged New York strip, T-bone, porterhouse, sirloin or rib-eye. We also offer a Reserve Aged standing rib roast during the winter months. These flavorful steaks and roasts are available only at Lunds & Byerlys. Stop by our meat and seafood department and try one for yourself! ■ real food 13

Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

SKINNY STICKS MAPLE SYRUP Located in central Wisconsin, Skinny Sticks is a small family business dedicated to providing pure maple syrup with a superior taste. Each batch of the super-sweet, golden syrup is harvested from maple trees in the Hoyt family’s backyard and hand-bottled on site.

Did you know? The Hoyts’ maple trees were part of a program between the University of Wisconsin and Cornell University, which planted wild maples in Wisconsin. These trees naturally produce high-sugar sap.

LUCKY’S SAUCES Made in Mankato, Lucky’s creates naturally flavored honey mustards and Louisiana-style hot sauces. Each sauce is gluten free and contains no high fructose corn syrup, artificial colors or preservatives, so you can feel good about dunking, dipping and slathering them on anything.

Tip: Lucky’s sauces are a workhorse in the kitchen. Use on eggs, sandwiches, salads, grilled foods and as a dip for veggies.

REPUBLIC OF TEA SUPER GREEN TEAS Republic of Tea is carrying on the age-old tradition of sipping green tea to stay healthy. The super green teas contain a blend of Japanese matcha and green tea leaves with powerful herbs for a healthy, flavorful infusion. Varieties include brain boost, serenity, lean green and immunity.

Did you know? Made of powdered green tea leaves, matcha gives you 10 times the vitamins, minerals and antioxidants of regular green tea, simply because you are using the entire tea leaf.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

BERTOLLI RISERVA PREMIUM PASTA SAUCES Finely crafted with artisanal ingredients, Bertolli Riserva pasta sauces capture the essence of Italian cuisine. Each recipe starts with farm-grown, thoughtfully paired ingredients such as imported Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and caramelized onions. Varieties include balsamic vinegar and caramelized onions, porcini mushrooms with truffle oil, Asiago cheese and artichokes, and marinara with Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Tip: These sauces aren’t just for pasta. Try the balsamic vinegar and caramelized onion sauce on prosciutto-wrapped chicken breasts for an impressive, yet easy dinner.

LUNDS & BYERLYS SMOKEHOUSE CIDER DRESSING Take your salad to the next level with Lunds & Byerlys Original Smokehouse Cider Dressing. Developed by our research and development chef Tim Tesch, this premium quality dressing is made fresh in small batches and available only at Lunds & Byerlys. We combine apple cider vinegar, Dijon mustard and just a touch of sugar to create a flavorful dressing with smoked hickory notes.


Find our smokehouse cider dressing in the produce department with our other Lunds & Byerlys refrigerated salad dressings.

Joe’s sauces hail from Minnesota and are crafted using the finest ingredients. The Mediterranean-inspired recipes stem from creator Joe Woog’s culinary focus on simple, delicious dishes from Central Europe and the Middle East. Try Joe’s signature garlic sauce and Joe’s savory sauce—a blend of roasted red peppers and walnuts.

Did you know? This chef-crafted dressing was a customer favorite on our deli salad bars, and now, by popular demand, it’s also bottled so you can enjoy it at home.

Tip: Joe’s sauces are as versatile as they are delicious. Blend Joe’s Garlic Sauce with an avocado and lemon juice for a tasty sandwich spread, or use Joe’s Savory Sauce as the sauce on a pizza. real food 15


The Primo Kamado All-In-One smoker and grill comes complete with stand, side tables, ash tool and grate lifter so you’re ready to go from zero to 850 degrees. Premium-grade ceramics deliver exceptional temperature control and retain food’s natural moisture.

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New Kids on the Block There’s more to life than hummus for chickpeas BY KYLE SMELTER


PREPARATION TIPS When it comes to preparing dried chickpeas, it’s like a day at the spa. They revel in a nice, long soak. Doing so softens the beans and makes them easier for your body to digest and to cook more quickly. Place in a large bowl and cover in cold water allowing them to soak overnight for 8-12 hours. Once finished, transfer to a large cooking pot and simmer for about one hour. Allow them to cool before adding to one of your favorite dishes. But if the quick pace of life doesn’t afford you the time for soaking, you can skip that phase and bring them to a boil before simmering for 2-4 hours or until desired softness. Canned chickpeas can be added without any preparation time. Just be sure to rinse first.


ike a tireless explorer looking for the lost city of Atlantis, health nuts and fitness fanatics continue in the never-ending quest to make the next big super food discovery. We’ve seen the rise of stars such as quinoa, chia seeds and kale, but a new challenger has risen for a spot on the list. Enter chickpeas. With roots in the Middle East dating back as early as 3000 B.C., chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans, have a rich history as a staple in Mediterranean cuisine, but have taken some time to catch fire here in the West. There are two main varieties of chickpeas: desi and kabuli. Desi chickpeas are the smaller of the two and are characterized by a rough coat protecting a small, dark seed, and kabuli are larger and beige in color with a thin skin. But don’t be fooled; what chickpeas lack in variety, they make up for in versatility. These power-packed beans are bursting at the peel with nutritional benefits. Just one cooked cup contains 50 percent of your daily value of dietary fiber, 15 grams of protein (twice as much as quinoa, and almost three times as much as a medium-sized egg), zero grams of cholesterol, very little sodium and fat, a low glycemic index, and a library of essential vitamins and minerals. And with all that fiber and protein, chickpeas do a great job at filling you up and fighting off your next hunger attack or trip to the office vending machine. Plus, just when you thought they couldn’t get any better, they’re gluten free. You may have even eaten chickpeas without realizing it. The beneficial little legume is the main ingredient in hummus. The delicious spread is simply mashed chickpeas blended with olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, tahini and salt for some extra flavor. But chickpeas aren’t just for hummus. From appetizers to entrées, they can be added to salads, stir-fry, stews, or almost any other dish. ■

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healthy habits

Happy and Healthy Use healthy ingredients to make the food you love that much more enjoyable


e all want to lead healthier, happier lives. But sometimes the things we eat get us off course. Luckily, there are many ways to infuse healthy ingredients into some of your favorite foods. In Hungry Healthy Happy, blogger Danii Martin explores ways to nourish the body with meals that are actually enjoyable—a revolutionary thought in the dieting world. Martin recommends using yogurt and light cream cheese in lieu of the ordinary filling for Chicken Kiev, and chicken wings get a tangy kick in her Crispy Baked Barbecue Chicken Wings recipe. These meals and nearly 100 more fill the pages of Martin’s book, which shows that with a few small changes, we can take big steps toward healthier living. — Aubrey Schield

Chicken Kiev SERVES 2

These take me straight back to my childhood when these garlicky butterfilled chicken parcels were often served as a weeknight dinner. My healthier version substitutes the usual filling with a much lighter mixture of yogurt and light cream cheese, but still keeps all of the finger-licking flavor from the garlic and herbs. 2 2 2 2 2 2 1

chicken breasts tablespoons low-fat garlic and herb cream cheese tablespoons fat-free Greek yogurt tablespoons chopped fresh parsley garlic cloves, crushed slices whole-wheat bread egg, beaten sea salt and black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Using a sharp knife, slice a deep pocket down the length of each chicken breast. Set aside. 3. In a bowl, combine the cream cheese, yogurt, parsley and garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Spoon half of the mixture into the pocket on each chicken breast. 4. Tear the bread into small pieces and place in a food processor, pulse to form fine breadcrumbs, then transfer to a bowl. Place the beaten egg in a separate bowl and place next to the breadcrumbs. 5. Carefully pick up one of the chicken breasts and dip in the beaten egg, then place in the breadcrumbs and roll until completely covered. Transfer to a baking sheet and repeat with the remaining chicken breast. 6. Cook the kievs in the preheated oven for 35–40 minutes until the breadcrumbs are golden and the chicken is cooked through. Serve hot. Cook’s Note: To ensure that none of your filling escapes during cooking, soak toothpicks in water for 30 minutes then use them to secure the chicken breast. Make sure that you remove the toothpicks before serving. 18 real food summer 2016



Crispy Baked Barbecue Chicken Wings SERVES 4

Barbecued chicken wings are perfect for informal social gatherings. So invite your friends over, put a basket of these out and wait for everyone to ask you for the recipe for the deliciously tangy barbecue sauce. 20 chicken wings Barbecue Sauce: 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 cups passata (See Cook’s Note] 4 tablespoons tomato purée (paste) 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tablespoon paprika 2 tablespoons runny honey or maple syrup 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce lime wedges, to garnish sea salt and black pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with foil. 2. To make the barbecue sauce, heat the oil in a small pan over a low heat, add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring continuously, until soft but not colored. Add the passata, tomato purée (paste), garlic, paprika, honey or maple syrup, balsamic vinegar and Worcestershire sauce to the pan and bring to a gentle simmer. Season to taste and leave to cook for 3 minutes. Blend the sauce until smooth with a stick blender, or allow to cool and blend in a countertop blender in batches. 3. Pour generous 1 cup of the sauce into a bowl (the remainder can be used as a dip for the wings, or will keep in the fridge for up to 3 days) and add the chicken wings. Mix to ensure that the wings are well coated in the sauce and then spread the wings out on the prepared baking sheet. 4. Transfer the chicken wings to the oven to cook for 40 minutes, turning the wings halfway through the cooking time. Remove the chicken from the oven and preheat the grill (broiler) to medium. 5. Place the chicken wings under the grill to crisp up for 5 minutes, then transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot with lime wedges alongside.


Cook’s Note: For tomato passata: take plain canned tomatoes and run them through a sieve or a food mill. Alternately, substitute tomato puree or unseasoned tomato sauce. ■ CHICKEN KIEV: PER SERVING: CALORIES 391; FAT 14g (sat. 7g); SODIUM 600mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 46g


Short Order Cooks Cooking with kids—real food and real fun



cooping, squeezing, mashing, measuring, pouring, ripping, even organizing—kids like to help, and helping in the kitchen comes with gratification at mealtime. It’s physical, it’s mental and

it’s fun. Cooking with a child might take a little extra effort on your part, but the payoffs are big. Cooking is all about stringing together lots of small steps—most of them simple—to make a meal. The trick with kids is giving them the right tasks to tackle. Every child is different, so use the recipes as guidelines, not rules, for different age groups. And these dishes aren’t just for kids. They are real recipes with real food—because both kids and grownups like good food.


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Fresh Pasta with Shucked Peas and Bacon MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Young kids may need some help kneading, but the emphasis is on fun: mixing, punching, pounding and rolling the dough. In the summer, English peas are crisp, fresh and green. Let your little helper assist in shucking them. 4½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 5 eggs salt 1 teaspoon oil 2 slices bacon, cut into ¼-inch strips 1 pound unshelled English peas (or 1 cup frozen peas) 1 tablespoon butter ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

AGE GROUP GUIDELINES Ages 3 to 4 Have kids help with simple physical tasks: washing vegetables, tearing stems off greens, stirring in deep-sided bowls. Ages 5 to 6 Let kids get involved with anything having to do with dough: kneading, punching, rolling and brushing. Ages 7 to 8 Kids can help measure, organize, scoop, mash and decorate. Consider letting them cut soft foods, such as tofu, with small plastic knives. Ages 9 to 11 Let kids help read a recipe and prepare ingredients before the cooking begins. Put them to work stirring hot foods, handling and preparing meats and fish, and cutting some vegetables with a small knife. Ages 12 to Teens Teach teens meal planning and classic cooking skills, such as sautéing, roasting and creating simple desserts.

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For the pasta 1. Place flour in center of a large mixing bowl, making a mound with a hollow center. 2. Crack eggs into a small bowl and add a pinch salt and oil. Pour into hollowed center in flour mound. 3. Use a fork to whisk eggs. Incorporate flour into mixture until a loose dough begins to form. Finish forming dough using hands. 4. Sprinkle a clean work surface, such as a countertop or cutting board, with some flour. Take turns kneading dough 10 to 15 minutes, until smooth and elastic without dimples or ripples. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 6 hours. 5. Remove dough from plastic wrap and cut into 4 pieces. Lightly flour a work surface. You and your helper each take a piece and rewrap the other two. Work dough with your hands to form a 1-inch-thick oval disc. 6. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough into a 1⁄8-inch-thick sheet, sprinkling with flour as needed to prevent sticking. 7. Let kids help cut pasta into various shapes using a pizza cutter or cookie cutters. Place pasta on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. For the peas and cooking pasta 1. Bring a large pot of water with a generous pinch of salt to a boil. 2. Meanwhile, crisp bacon in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Pour out excess fat and add peas, butter and a small pinch salt. Cook over medium heat 2 minutes, just long enough to warm peas. 3. Turn off heat and let peas and bacon warm in pan while pasta cooks. 4. When water is boiling, add pasta and stir to prevent sticking. Cook 3 to 12 minutes depending on pasta shape and size, until soft and pliable. Test for doneness by cutting 1 pasta piece with a knife. Pasta is done when there is no raw dough in center. 5. Drain pasta into a colander and serve warm topped with peas and crumbled bacon. Sprinkle with Parmesan to finish.


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Baked Mac ’n’ Cheese Bites MAKES 4 SERVINGS

It’s no secret: Kids love mac ’n’ cheese. This recipe takes a food favorite and lets children get their hands on it, rolling it into balls and breading. Then it’s a short trip in the oven for some bite-size mac ’n’ cheese. 1⁄2 6 2 2 ½ ½ 1 2

pound macaroni tablespoons unsalted butter, divided tablespoons all-purpose flour cups milk pound mild Cheddar or Colby Jack cheese, shredded cup plus 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese, divided teaspoon salt cups bread crumbs

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook macaroni, drain and rinse in cold water. Place in a large mixing bowl and set aside. 2. In a medium to large saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter, taking care not to let it brown. 3. Add flour, using a whisk to combine with butter. Cook 2 minutes, again taking care not to let it brown. 4. Gradually pour in milk, whisking. Reduce heat and simmer gently 5 minutes. 5. Remove from heat and whisk in cheese and ½ cup Parmesan until melted. 6. Pour cheese sauce over macaroni, stirring to coat. 7. Refrigerate in a shallow pan 1 to 2 hours, until fully chilled. Mac ’n’ cheese can be refrigerated in a sealed container up to 7 days. Breading and baking 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Let kids help roll cooled mac ’n’ cheese into golf-ball-size balls, compacting to ensure they don’t fall apart. 3. Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter. In a medium bowl, combine with 1 tablespoon Parmesan, teaspoon of salt and bread crumbs. 4. Coat macaroni in breading mixture and place on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake 12 to 15 minutes, until warm, crispy and golden brown. 5. Serve warm but not hot enough to burn little fingers and mouths.

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Oven “Fried” Chicken Tenders MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This recipe for chicken tenders gives your grade schooler a chance to handle raw chicken, requiring lots of hand washing. A little information about where their food comes from will help kids understand how much better fresh is than frozen. Kids can help with most of this recipe. 1 2 1 2

pound boneless skinless chicken breast or tenders teaspoons salt, divided cup flour eggs

½ cup milk 2 cups bread crumbs ¼ cup vegetable oil

1. Preheat oven to 425°F and line a baking sheet with foil. (If using tenders, skip step 2 and proceed to step 3.) 2. Place chicken breasts on a cutting board and cover with plastic wrap. Using a meat tenderizer, pound until ¾ inch thick. Cut chicken into 1½-inch strips. 3. Lay strips or tenders on a plate and season on both sides with 1 teaspoon salt. 4. Set up a breading station with three medium bowls. In the first, place flour and stir in 1 teaspoon salt. In the second, whisk together eggs and milk. In the third, use a spoon to mix bread crumbs and oil. 5. Dip chicken in flour, shaking off excess. Next, immerse in egg mixture. Finally, roll in bread crumbs before laying on baking sheet. 6. Bake 16 minutes, until golden browned, using tongs to flip halfway through. Chicken should reach an internal temperature of 165°F. 7. Serve warm with everyone’s favorite condiments. Cook’s Note: The breaded chicken can be stored, wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours before baking.

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TIPS FOR HAVING FUN • Teach mise en place (roughly “everything in its place” in French). Scooping and measuring ingredients is half the fun for kids. • Clean up as you go. A big mess is a big bummer. • Keep kids moving with the physical elements of cooking, such as stirring, rolling, punching and pounding. • Remember good does not mean perfect. Let little imperfections happen—and even a few mistakes. If it tastes good but doesn’t look like you planned, that’s okay; it’s part of the learning process.

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Fresh Pizza Pockets MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This is another hands-on recipe, with plenty of kneading, punching, shaping and stuffing to keep the kiddos busy. 1½ 1 1 2½ 1 2 12 12 1

teaspoons instant yeast teaspoon honey tablespoon olive oil, plus more for brushing cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting teaspoon salt tablespoons cornmeal ounces pasta or pizza sauce ounces shredded mozzarella cheese or sliced fresh cup roughly chopped basil

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together yeast, honey and 1½ cups warm water, forming a cloudy liquid (see Cook’s Notes). Let sit 5 minutes. Add oil. 2. In a separate bowl, whisk together flour and salt. 3. Add flour mixture, stirring until dough comes together in a ball. 4. On a lightly floured cutting board, knead dough 10 to 15 minutes until smooth and elastic. Roll into a ball. 5. Coat a bowl with oil. Gently roll dough in bowl to coat. Cover and let rise at room temperature 45 minutes, until doubled in size. Dough can be made up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated. 6. When dough has doubled, punch down with fists. Divide into 6 pieces. On a lightly floured work surface, roll into baseball-size balls using your hands. SAFETY TIPS 7. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly dust • Avoid large, unwieldy knives. The larger the knife, the with flour. Space out dough balls on baking sheet to prevent harder it is to control. Instead, use small paring knives. touching when they expand. Cover with plastic wrap. Let Limit younger kids to plastic knives—or take care of the rise at room temperature 10 minutes, until doubled in size. cutting yourself. 8. Generously flour a work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll • Avoid appliances. Everything happens faster with tools out dough balls, turning a ¼ turn with each roll, to make such as blenders, mixers and food processors. Slow it ½-inch-thick discs that are 8 to 10 inches in diameter. down and teach kids how to do things by hand. 9. Preheat oven to 475°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and sprinkle with cornmeal. • Avoid deep-frying. Reserve hot oil for when children are 10. Spoon ¼ cup sauce into center of each dough disc. out of the kitchen. Sprinkle over cheese and basil. Fold dough over filling, forming a half circle. Pinch edges to seal. (Pizza pockets can be stuffed up to 8 hours in advance, wrapped on a baking sheet and refrigerated. Bake an additional 2 minutes.) 11. Transfer pizza pockets to baking sheets. Brush with oil. Bake 16 minutes, until golden brown, rotating baking sheet halfway through to ensure even cooking. 12. Serve warm, having children take care with hot cheese and sauce. Cook’s Notes: • For the yeast, it is important the water is not hotter than 120°F or it can kill the yeast. Warm water from the tap is warm enough. • Personalize your pockets with optional fillings such as pepperoni, cooked sausage, ham or spinach. Just make sure not to overstuff, which will make it difficult to seal the pocket. About 3 to 4 slices of pepperoni, for example—roughly 1⁄4 ounce—is all you need.

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Why not let your young adults make dinner tonight? The individual components of taco night are simple, and the fun is in bringing it all together for mealtime. Fair warning: If the kids do the cooking, you might have to clear the table. 8 hard taco shells taco filling (below) Spanish rice (below) guacamole (below)

½ head iceberg lettuce, shredded 2 Roma tomatoes, diced mild Cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese sour cream

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. 2. Spread taco shells on a baking sheet and bake 5 to 7 minutes to crisp. Arrange on a plate. 3. Place remaining ingredients in separate bowls for easy self service.

Taco Filling 1 1 ¼ 4

tablespoon vegetable oil pound ground beef teaspoon chili powder teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon paprika pinch pepper ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon cornstarch

1. Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. 2. Add beef, stirring to break up, and cook until browned. 3. Pour out excess fat. Sprinkle in spices and cornstarch, stirring until incorporated. 4. Pour in ½ cup water, stir and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until thickened. 5. Keep warm until ready to serve. Taco filling can be refrigerated in a sealed container up to 7 days. Reheat in a saucepan over medium heat with 2 tablespoons water, stirring until warm.

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Spanish Rice 1 1 ¼ 1 ½


tablespoon vegetable oil cup white rice cup tomato paste teaspoon paprika teaspoon salt

2 4 1 1 1


1. In a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid, heat oil over medium heat. 2. Add rice and stir until coated. 3. Add tomato paste and paprika, stirring until rice is coated. 4. Stir in 1¾ cups water and salt. Increase heat and bring to a boil. 5. Reduce heat, cover and cook on low 20 minutes. 6. Turn off heat and let sit uncovered 5 minutes. 7. Keep warm until ready to serve.

FRESH PASTA W. SHUCKED PEAS & BACON: PER SERVING: CALORIES 745 (156 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 7g); CHOL 252mg; SODIUM 273mg; CARB 115g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 29g

BAKED MAC ’N’ CHEESE BITES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 915 (398 from fat); FAT 45g (sat. 26g); CHOL 120mg; SODIUM 1374mg; CARB 88g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 38g

OVEN “FRIED” CHICKEN TENDERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 516 (190 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 4g); CHOL 133mg; SODIUM 1341mg; CARB 43g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 35g

ripe avocados sprigs cilantro, roughly chopped tablespoon fresh lime juice teaspoon salt small pinch ground coriander

1. Halve and pit avocados. Use a spoon to remove flesh to a mixing bowl. Mash with a fork into a thick paste. 2. Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. 3. Refrigerate in a sealed container until ready to serve. Guacamole can be made up to 2 hours in advance. ■

FRESH PIZZA POCKETS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 442 (140 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 7g); CHOL 37mg; SODIUM 986mg; CARB 54g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 21g

TACO NIGHT (W/O RICE): PER SERVING: CALORIES 643 (408 from fat); FAT 47g (sat. 17g); CHOL 113mg; SODIUM 1236mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 32g

SPANISH RICE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 2 1 4 (3 4 f ro m fa t) ; FAT 4g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 427mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g

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32 real food summer 2016

Salad Days Cool creations keep it light during summer heat BY ROBIN ASBELL



hen temperatures rise, the last thing you want to eat is something heavy. Summer is the time for cool, refreshing fare. When it comes to salads, don’t limit yourself to greens: Consider a base of

grains, pasta or cooked vegetables. A salad makes for an excellent side but can easily take center stage with the addition of some protein. If you are improvising a whole-meal salad, be mindful of colors and textures. Incorporate reds, oranges, greens and yellows to avoid a monotone dish. For textural contrast, mix crunchy raw vegetables, tender cooked vegetables and hearty proteins, such as chicken and beans. A flavorful dressing brings it all together with plenty of punch. Tempting toppers include nuts, fruit or a bit of cheese.

Green Salad with Berries and Carrots

Greek Wheat Berry Salad with Oregano Chicken and Halloumi Cheese



This fresh, berry-drenched salad is perfect for a summer meal and can be a main course with the addition of a little crumbled chèvre.

This salad is a fantastic medley of textures, from the pop of the wheat berries to the chewiness of the roasted halloumi cheese. Earthy oregano and perky lemon keep your palate excited as you savor each bite.

1 2 3 1⁄2 1⁄2 1⁄4 1 2 4 1 4

pound strawberries tablespoons honey tablespoons champagne vinegar teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup extra virgin olive oil large head romaine lettuce cups shredded carrot slices red onion cup walnuts, broken ounces crumbled chèvre (optional)

1. Core four strawberries, place in a food processor and purée. Add honey, vinegar, salt and pepper, and process until smooth. With motor running, drizzle in oil. Divide dressing among 4 wide-mouth quart jars, if using. 2. Slice remaining strawberries and divide among jars. Layer in carrot, onion, romaine, chèvre (if using) and walnuts. Secure jar lids and keep chilled until ready to serve. 3. If not using jars, assemble salad in a storage container, keeping dressing in a separate container and adding to salad just before serving.

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1 6 1 2 1 1⁄2 1⁄2 8 1 1⁄4 1 1⁄2 4 1

cup wheat berries tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided pound chicken breast teaspoons dried oregano teaspoon lemon zest teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon salt ounces halloumi cheese pinch dried mint cup fresh lemon juice clove garlic, pressed teaspoon salt cups fresh spinach medium carrot, shredded

1. In a small saucepan, combine wheat berries and 3 cups water and place over high heat. When it comes to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low and partially cover. Cook 45 to 60 minutes, until berries are tender and some are splitting open. Drain and let cool. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Drizzle two rimmed sheet pans with 1 tablespoon oil each. Slice chicken in ¼-inch strips then cut into 1-inch-long pieces. Place on a pan and add oregano, lemon zest, black pepper and salt. Toss to coat. Bake 20 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool. 3. Meanwhile, slice halloumi into ½-inch strips then cut into 1-inch-long pieces. On second pan, drizzle 1 tablespoon oil and spread over cheese. Add mint and toss to coat. Bake 15 minutes, until cheese is deeply browned on edges. Remove to a rack to cool. 4. In a cup, combine remaining oil, lemon juice, garlic and salt. In a large bowl, combine wheat berries, spinach and carrot. Drizzle over dressing and toss to coat. Add cheese and toss to mix. Transfer salad to a storage container, top with chicken and chill until ready to serve.


Romaine and Snap Pea Salad with Pork and Sesame Dressing MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The deep flavors of soy sauce and toasted sesame oil give this salad a satisfying heft, transforming lettuce and veggies into a meal. Buy a small pork tenderloin for this dish (or save the excess for a later use). You can swap in chicken breast if preferred. 1⁄4 3 1⁄4 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 4 4 1

cup chicken stock tablespoons soy sauce cup apple juice tablespoon dark sesame oil tablespoon honey tablespoon rice vinegar tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped teaspoons cornstarch tablespoon canola oil pound pork tenderloin, slivered cups (6 ounces) snap peas small mandarin oranges, peeled and sectioned small scallions, sliced diagonally small head romaine lettuce


1. In a 1-quart pot, combine stock, soy sauce, juice, sesame oil, honey, vinegar, ginger and cornstarch, and whisk to combine. Over medium-high heat, bring mixture to a boil, whisking constantly. When mixture becomes glossy and thick, remove from heat and transfer to a glass measuring cup to cool. 2. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Once hot, swirl in canola oil. Stir in pork and cook, stirring, 4 minutes, until browned and cooked through. Drizzle 1⁄4 cup sauce over pork and stir 1 minute. Remove from heat and let cool. Chill in refrigerator until cold (if pork is warm when salad is assembled, it will wilt lettuce). 3. If using jars: In 4 1-quart, wide-mouth jars, drizzle 2 tablespoons each. Layer in pork, snap peas, oranges and scallions. Tear lettuce and add to jars. Secure jar lids and chill until ready to serve. Each guest can use a fork to mix salad in jar. 4. If not using jars, assemble salad in a storage container, keeping dressing in a separate container and adding to salad just before serving.

GREEN SALAD W. BERRIES & CARROTS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 409 (264 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 4g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 350mg; CARB 33g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 7g

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Smoked Salmon and Dill Pasta Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Smoked fish is a fantastic timesaver; it’s already cooked and seasoned plus packed with protein. In this pretty salad, butterfly-shaped pasta is dressed simply with a tangy yogurt dressing spiked with fresh dill. 8 1⁄2 2 1⁄4 1 1 1⁄2 1⁄2 4 2 2 1

ounces farfalle pasta cup plain Greek yogurt tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cup fresh dill weed, coarsely chopped teaspoon fresh orange zest tablespoon fresh orange juice teaspoon salt teaspoon coarsely cracked black pepper ounces smoked salmon ribs celery, chopped medium scallions, chopped cup grape tomatoes, halved

1. Put on a large pot of salted water for pasta. When it comes to a boil, cook pasta according to package directions and drain well. 2. In a large bowl, combine yogurt, oil, dill, orange zest and juice, salt and pepper, and whisk to mix well. Chop salmon into bite-size pieces and add to bowl. Add celery, scallions and tomatoes. Add pasta and toss to coat. 3. Transfer to a storage container and chill until ready to serve. ■


LAYERS OF FLAVOR If you haven’t tried packing your food in mason jars, it’s high time you got in on the jar party. The widemouthed quart jar is a perfect container for layering a salad with the dressing on the bottom to keep tender greens from wilting until it’s time to enjoy. Just make sure to put the sturdy ingredients, such as beans or chopped vegetables, on top of the dressing and the items you want to stay dry—such as nuts or dried fruit— in the middle layer and then the greens on top. The jar is endlessly reusable for packing individual servings for guests or toting for lunch, saving you from buying disposable containers. Each guest can shake their jar to mix, use a fork to toss before eating or transfer to a bowl if preferred.


SMOKED SALMON & DILL PASTA SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 380 (90 from fat); FAT 10g (sat. 2g); CHOL 9mg; SODIUM 739mg; CARB 53g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 18g



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Nourishment in Nature Break away from the everyday and pack up a picnic




ating at the dining room table—or even

on the patio—sometimes can be too close to home. Take your food to a beautiful outdoor setting and enjoy the nourishment that comes from being in nature. Make use of your local park or plan a more ambitious trip, but by all means, have some meals with the sky as your ceiling. The main thing to look for in a picnic menu is packability. Foods that crumble with a little jostling or get soggy by making a little journey are out. To pack your foods, place them in the smallest container they will fit in so they won’t bounce around or waste space. Keep sandwiches in sealed plastic bags to keep out condensation and moisture from melting ice. Roll forks and a small knife in a towel and tuck it in.

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Poached Salmon and Avocado Sandwiches with Spicy Slaw MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This combination of salmon and avocado is not just delicious—it’s also incredibly nourishing. Poaching the fish keeps it moist and tender, but grilling or baking will work, too. Swap in halibut or cod if you prefer. Shredded cabbage is sturdy enough to pack and won’t wilt like tender lettuce. 1 2 1 10 2 2 2 2 1⁄2 1 8

cup white wine teaspoons fresh lemon juice, divided teaspoon coarse salt, divided ounces skin-on wild-caught salmon cups shredded cabbage whole scallions, minced tablespoons mayonnaise teaspoons whole-grain mustard teaspoon Tabasco sauce medium avocado slices whole-grain or ciabatta bread

1. In a medium skillet, combine 2 cups water, wine, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 1⁄4 teaspoon salt and bring to a simmer. Gently slip in salmon. Reduce heat so liquid is just bubbling. Use a spatula to baste fish. Cook 4 to 6 minutes, until salmon reads 150°F on a thermometer, is starting to flake easily and is becoming barely rosy in center. Remove to a plate and let cool. 2. In a medium bowl, combine cabbage, scallions, mayonnaise, mustard, Tabasco and 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. 3. Halve and pit avocado and scoop flesh into a separate bowl. Add remaining teaspoon lemon juice and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and coarsely mash. 4. Remove salmon skin and use a spoon to scrape off gray fatty layer if desired. Tear fish into chunks and toss with avocado mixture. 5. Toast bread. Spread salmon mixture across four slices and top with slaw. Top each sandwich with a bread slice. Wrap tightly and chill. These are best eaten within 24 hours.



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Grillable Cubano MAKES 4 SERVINGS

If you are going to a park or campsite with a grill, ditch the same old burgers and swap in these yummy sandwiches. The foil wrapper allows you to toast them over the fire, melting the cheese and crisping the bread. Sliced pickles are the perfect complement for the rich meats and cheeses, creating a delicious bite of Cuban flavor. 4 1⁄4 1 4 4 4 4 1

5-inch sandwich rolls, split cup mayonnaise teaspoon ground chipotle ounces sliced ham slices roast pork ounces Gruyère cheese, thinly sliced thin slices red onion large dill pickle, thinly sliced yellow mustard vegetable oil spray

1. Place each roll on a 12-inch square of foil. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise and chipotle. Spread 1 tablespoon on each roll, dividing between halves. Add ham, pork and cheese. Add onion and pickle. Top with mustard. Close sandwiches, spritz with vegetable oil spray and wrap tightly with foil. 2. Preheat grill. When hot, add foil-wrapped sandwiches and press with a spatula to flatten. Grill 3 to 4 minutes per side. Serve hot.

Rosemary Chicken Salad Stuffed Tomatoes MAKES 8 SERVINGS

When tomatoes are at their best, it’s time to revel in them. Here, ripe tomatoes take the place of bread and create an edible bowl for a tasty chicken salad. Fresh rosemary and tender cubes of zucchini give this dish an Italian feel. 1 2 1 1⁄2 1 8 1 1 2 1⁄2

pound chopped chicken breast tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced clove chopped garlic teaspoon coarse salt tablespoon extra virgin olive oil medium tomatoes medium zucchini, diced rib celery, finely chopped tablespoons red onion, chopped cup mayonnaise

1. In a large bowl, place chicken, rosemary, garlic, salt and oil, and toss to coat. Refrigerate. 2. Spread a kitchen towel on an edged baking sheet. Using a sharp paring knife, cut a lid from each tomato, making a wide opening. Reserve tops. Use knife to slice along inner walls of tomato and use a spoon to scoop pulp and flesh into a bowl. Finely chop 1⁄4 cup tomato flesh and reserve, saving the rest for another use. Place each tomato, cut side down, on towel-lined pan to drain. 3. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Drop chicken into hot pan and let brown before stirring. Cook, stirring, until golden and cooked through. Remove from heat and scrape into a medium bowl. Let cool to room temperature. Add reserved tomatoes, zucchini, celery, onion and mayonnaise. Stir to mix well. 4. Use a spoon to scoop chicken salad into tomatoes and pack them tightly in a storage container. Replace tomato lids. Place a piece of wax paper on top of tomatoes and seal container. If there is any extra space in container, use crumpled wax paper as packing material so tomatoes do not move during transport.

summer 2016 real food 43

Curried Chickpea Burritos with Apple Yogurt Sauce

Matcha Cupcakes with Raspberries



Take the curry house to go by wrapping all the flavors of your favorite Indian dish into an easy-to-carry burrito. The lightly spiced chickpeas have a counterpoint in a slightly sweet, crunchy apple yogurt sauce.

So many desserts are too bulky to pack for a picnic. Small sweets like these cupcakes pack easily into a storage container where they can stay safely nestled on the way to the picnic. These colorful little cupcakes are tinted green with matcha tea and studded with juicy raspberries.

1 1 1 1 1⁄2 1⁄2 2 1 11⁄2 1⁄2 1 1 2 4

tablespoon canola oil large onion, slivered tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon turmeric teaspoon allspice cups broccoli florets cup grape tomatoes, sliced cups chickpeas, cooked and drained teaspoon salt cup chopped apple cup plain yogurt tablespoons honey to 6 whole-wheat tortillas Tabasco sauce, to taste

Cupcakes 1 cup cake flour 1⁄2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons matcha 2 teaspoons baking powder 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1⁄2 cup butter, cut into cubes 1 cup sugar 2 large eggs 1⁄2 cup plain yogurt 1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup fresh raspberries


1. Place a large skillet over medium-high heat. Drizzle oil in pan and add onion. Stir until starting to sizzle, reduce heat to medium-low and cook 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until onion is soft and golden. Add ginger, cumin, turmeric and allspice, and stir until fragrant. 2. Increase heat to medium-high, add broccoli, tomatoes and beans, and stir. Add salt and cook, stirring, until broccoli becomes bright green, tomatoes soften and tomato juices evaporate. When pan is almost dry, remove from heat and let cool. 3. In a medium bowl, combine apple, yogurt and honey, and stir. 4. To assemble, place foot-long pieces of plastic wrap on counter and place a tortilla on each. Evenly spread bean mixture across tortillas. Sprinkle with Tabasco to taste. Evenly divide apple yogurt mixture among tortillas in heaping dollops. Fold in tortilla ends, roll each burrito and seal in plastic wrap. Chill until serving. Best within a day or two.


44 real food summer 2016

GRILLABLE CUBANO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 560 (273 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 10g); CHOL 77mg; SODIUM 1444mg; CARB 39g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 31g

Glaze 2 cups confectioners’ sugar 3 tablespoons raspberry juice (bottled, or a red blend of your choice) 1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1. For the cupcakes: Preheat oven to 325°F. Line a cupcake pan with paper liners. 2. In a medium bowl, combine flours, matcha, baking powder and salt, and whisk to mix well. 3. In a large bowl, use an electric mixer to beat butter until light. Gradually beat in sugar until evenly mixed and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating 1 minute until light. Reduce mixer speed to low and stir in yogurt and vanilla. Add dry mixture and mix just until combined. Gently fold in raspberries by hand, taking care not to break them. 4. Scoop batter into baking cups, filling almost to rim. Bake 27 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool completely on racks. 5. For the glaze: In a medium bowl, combine ingredients to create a thick glaze. 6. When cupcakes are completely cooled, scoop 2 tablespoons glaze onto each and spread to edge. Let dry at room temperature to set. Store tightly covered for up to a week in the refrigerator, or three days at room temperature. ■



MATCHA CUPCAKES W. RASPBERRIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 299 (79 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 5g); CHOL 52mg; SODIUM 259mg; CARB 52g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g


summer 2016 real food 45

Food, Glorious Food A plant-based, whole-food approach to meals, snacks and desserts packs flavor without refined sugars for one chef RECIPES BY ELLA LECHÉ


hoose food that nurtures your whole body. It can heal and transform our lives, yet you don’t have to sacrifice taste and the pleasure of great meals—even dessert.

When Ella Leché was diagnosed with a rare autoimmune disorder, she turned to healing her body with

food. She learned that certain foods could reverse health problems, treat discomfort and certain conditions, and become a great preventative measure for many types of illnesses and health problems down the road. She developed plant-based wheat and/or gluten-free recipes that are pure and natural—plus found that reducing the amount and type of sugar she ate drastically improved her health and lifestyle. Note that some healthy gluten-free substitutions such as nuts are higher in calories, which is something to keep in mind as you look at food choices. Enjoy a taste of her dishes from breakfast through dessert in the following recipes from her new book, Cut the Sugar, You’re Sweet Enough.

46 real food summer 2016

Baked Zucchini Boats SERVES 4 TO 6

This is a big hit from the Pure Ella blog! A dish that does not disappoint, it has made many people’s dinners so much healthier and happier. These are also great for large crowds if you cut them into quarters. 3 large zucchini, halved lengthwise 2 large tomatoes, finely diced Spinach Pesto (recipe below) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup gluten-free bread crumbs fresh basil leaves, for serving grapeseed oil 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. With a spoon or ice cream scoop (because that’s more fun!), scoop out the soft inner flesh of the zucchini. Oil the hollowed-out shells all over and set aside in a baking dish. 3. Chop the zucchini flesh into small pieces and put in a large bowl. Add the tomatoes and spinach pesto, and mix with a wooden spoon to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Fill the zucchini shells with the mixture, sprinkle with the bread crumbs, and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until tops appear golden. Serve sprinkled with basil leaves.

Spinach Pesto



4 handfuls fresh spinach, stemmed handful of fresh basil, stemmed 2 tablespoons raw pine nuts 2 tablespoons slivered or chopped raw almonds 1 clove garlic, peeled ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM CUT THE SUGAR, YOU’RE SWEET ENOUGH BY ELLA LECHÉ © 2016 ANDREWS MCMEEL PUBLISHING.

1. Place all of the ingredients in a food processor and process until a paste forms.

summer 2016 real food 47

French Crêpes SERVES 2 OR 3

I grew up on crêpes. My mom made them for breakfast, lunch and dinner—there were no rules for when and how we ate them. My favorite filling was jam, preferably homemade. I still love them so much and make a double batch on Sunday mornings. It’s a tough job, because each one disappears from the plate instantly! Serve them warm with Vanilla-Cashew Cream Cheese and Raspberry-Chia Jam, topped with fresh raspberries and mint. Voilà! A stunning breakfast or dessert. If you’re feeding a family, it’s great to have two pans going at once so you can cut the cooking time in half. ¾ ½ 3 1 1

cup sweet rice flour cup coconut flour tablespoons potato starch tablespoon powdered stevia tablespoon raw cane sugar pinch of fine sea salt ¼ cup coconut oil, melted, or grapeseed oil ½ cup almond milk 1¼ to 1½ cups water, warmed Vanilla-Cashew Cream Cheese, for serving (recipe at right) Raspberry Chia Jam, for serving (recipe at right) 1. In a medium bowl, sift together and whisk the flours, potato starch, stevia, sugar and salt. Add the oil and milk and stir to combine. Pour in the water slowly while continuing to mix the batter. You’re after a fairly pourable consistency in the batter, and you may need less or more of the water (I find that about 1¼ cups works great). If the batter seems clumpy, either press it against the side of the bowl with a wooden spoon to break the lumps, or use an immersion blender to get a smooth consistency. 2. Heat a small nonstick pan over medium-high heat with a little oil and pour in a ladleful of batter. Your pan and oil have to be hot or else the batter will stick and this will ruin the crêpe. Quickly grab the pan and swirl the batter inside so it spreads out to the sides. Set back down and cook for about 2 minutes, or until bubbles appear on top and the crêpe is slightly golden underneath (check by lifting an edge with a spatula). Gently flip the crêpe over and cook the other side for just another minute or two. Continue with all the batter. Cook’s Note: The smaller and lighter the pan, the easier it is to work with. Keep the pan hot and oiled so that the crêpe won’t stick. You need a good nonstick pan—cast-iron is great; stainless steel won’t work as well.

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Vanilla-Cashew Cream Cheese SERVES 2 OR 3

1 ½ ½ 3

cup raw cashews, soaked in water for at least 2 hours cup vanilla dairy-free yogurt teaspoon vanilla extract Medjool dates, pitted, or 2 drops liquid stevia

1. Rinse and drain the cashews and place in a food processor. Grind them on high speed, and then add the rest of the ingredients and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Raspberry-Chia Jam MAKES 3 CUPS

3 cups fresh raspberries 2 tablespoons chia seeds, whole or ground 4 to 6 drops liquid stevia (optional) 1. Purée the raspberries in a blender. Transfer to a bowl, add the chia seeds and stevia and mix until well combined. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours; overnight is even better for the chia seeds to plump up and the texture to become thicker, resembling jam. Taste and sweeten with stevia if a little extra sweetness is preferred. 2. The sweetness level really depends on your taste preference—but it’s worth considering that all fruits already have natural sugars. This jam will keep well in the fridge for up to 5 days (if it lasts that long). Frozen fruit could work well, too, especially in the winter months.

Black Bean-Tomato Tart SERVES 3 OR 4

This pastry dough recipe makes enough for two tarts. Make one tart with these ingredients and have fun changing up the ingredients on the other tart. Or freeze the second half until next time. 1 (17-ounce) package gluten-free or spelt puff pastry or make your own (recipe follows) Pastry (ingredients for 2 tarts) 2⅓ cups all-purpose gluten-free flour or light spelt flour ½ cup vegan shortening, cold ½ cup vegan buttery spread, cold up to ½ cup ice water 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

Toppings 2 large tomatoes, sliced ¼ red onion, thinly sliced ½ cup cooked black beans, rinsed and drained 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper fresh rosemary leaves

1. To make the pastry: Sift the flour into a large bowl, add the shortening and butter and cut it with a pastry cutter or in a food processor. Once crumbles form, transfer the dough to a work surface, create a well, and slowly pour in the ice water, just a little at a time. Continue folding and cutting and adding water a few tablespoons at a time until a dough forms. Knead in the seasoning and fresh rosemary. Do not overwork. Little dots of unincorporated shortening/butter are necessary for lightness. Kneading for 3 to 4 minutes should be perfect. If the dough feels warm or soft, cool in the fridge or freezer for just a few minutes. Divide the dough into two balls. Wrap each in plastic wrap and keep cool in the refrigerator before assembling the tart. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 3. Lay a sheet of parchment paper on a baking sheet. Press one dough ball with your fingers or a rolling pin into a rectangle about ½ inch thick. 4. Drizzle the tart with a little olive oil and scatter the tomato, onion, black beans and fresh rosemary. Brush the top with the remaining olive oil. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until golden.

summer 2016 real food 49

Spaghetti Squash Bounty Salad SERVES 4 TO 6

Spaghetti squash is such an ingenious vegetable. Isn’t it clever to grow spaghetti strands inside a squash? This dish is great and healthy and tastes amazing. It makes a great side dish, or sometimes I add lentils and it literally becomes a meal in minutes. Once you prebake the squash, it becomes a very quick and easy dish to put together. It’s also very versatile year-round and goes with everything.

Wild Rice Burgers SERVES 4 TO 6

These meatless burgers are hearty and delicious! Wild rice is my favorite; it’s so versatile and delicious on its own or incorporated into a recipe. These eggplant “buns” are my favorite way to replace real buns. Grab a fork and knife for this one and enjoy. 1 ⅓ 1 1

1 1 ½ ½ ½

grapeseed or other neutral oil, for cooking medium onion, finely diced cup uncooked wild rice (1 cup cooked) cup cooked black beans chia or flax “egg” (mix 1 tablespoon ground chia or ground flax seeds with 2 tablespoons warm water and let stand for 2 minutes) to 2 teaspoons sea salt to 2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper to 1 teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon chili powder (optional) teaspoon dried oregano up to ½ cup rice flour or other flour, to coat burger patties

1. In a large nonstick skillet, heat a bit of oil over medium-low heat and sauté the onion until golden. Set aside. 2. In a food processor, blend the wild rice, black beans, chia “egg” and spices. I like to leave some texture so I blend for just a few seconds to get a crumbly but sticky mixture. Transfer to a bowl, add the onions, and mix to incorporate. Taste and adjust the seasonings to your liking. 3. Dust a plate with the flour. Form a heaping tablespoon of the mixture into a patty, and coat the patty in the flour. Prepare all the burgers, then heat some oil in the same pan you used to sauté the onions. Cook the burgers for 2 to 3 minutes on one side on medium heat, or until slightly golden and firmed, then flip and cook the other side. You don’t want to handle them too much or they could crumble or stick to the pan. Add more oil if needed and continue with the rest of the patties. 4. Serve the burgers in a bun or on a salad. Or my favorite way: stacked on grilled slices of eggplant with kale, pickled red pepper, vegan mayo, grainy mustard and ketchup. Cook’s Note: Wild rice cooks in about 1 hour, so it’s a timesaver to cook the rice the night before or otherwise plan ahead. (I often freeze cooked rice for a quick thaw to use the day of.) If you’re cooking the beans yourself, be sure to allow for that time also. Cooking your own beans is healthier, more economical and ecofriendly. But convenience helps a ton; if you are using canned beans, just look for BPA-free cans if possible. 50 real food summer 2016

1 ¼ ½ 1 1 ¼

large spaghetti squash cup olive oil, plus more for rubbing the squash cup raw pine nuts pint cherry tomatoes, halved large cucumber, cubed medium red onion, finely chopped juice of ½ lemon 1 tablespoon celery seeds 2 teaspoons sea salt freshly cracked black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Cut the spaghetti squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, and rub the inside of the squash with olive oil. Place on a baking sheet and bake for 30 to 45 minutes. 3. Let cool slightly. Using a fork, scrape the spaghetti strings out completely into a large bowl, leaving only the skin. Lower the oven temperature to 200°F and line a small baking sheet with parchment paper. 4. Place the pine nuts on the parchment-lined baking sheet and toast them lightly in the oven at 200°F for 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Toss them halfway through baking. Be careful not to burn them, as they brown really quickly. 5. Add the tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, lemon juice, the ¼ cup olive oil, celery seeds, salt and pepper to the spaghetti squash strings and toss to combine. Top with the pine nuts just before serving.

No Bake Chocolate Mocha Cake SERVES 6

This tiramisu-inspired cake is absolute perfection! It goes great with a good cup of coffee or chai tea. Mocha Layer 2½ cups raw walnuts (or a mix of walnuts and pecans) 5 Medjool dates, pitted ¼ cup coconut nectar or maple syrup 4 drops liquid stevia ¼ cup raw cacao powder Cashew Layer 2 cups raw cashews, soaked in water at least 2 hours or overnight ¼ cup coconut oil, melted ¼ cup coconut nectar or maple syrup ¼ cup coffee, brewed and cold (optional) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste pinch of Himalayan pink salt Chocolate Ganache for topping (recipe below) Whipped Coconut Milk for serving (recipe below) raw cacao nibs, for serving


1. Line a 4-by-9-inch loaf pan with parchment paper, making sure the paper extends above the sides so it’s easy to pull out the cake. 2. To make the mocha layer: Grind the walnuts in a food processor to a fine texture. Add the dates, coconut nectar, stevia, and cacao powder and mix on high until the dates are broken down completely. The texture should remain crumbly; do not overmix. Press half of this mixture evenly and firmly into the bottom of the pan. Transfer the remaining mixture to a bowl and set aside. 3. To make the cashew layer: Wipe the food processor clean with a paper towel. Rinse and drain the cashews well, and grind to a fine texture in the food processor. Add the coconut oil, coconut nectar, coffee, vanilla and salt and process on high until smooth. Spread half of this mixture on the mocha layer in the pan. Place the pan in the freezer to set, about 2 hours. Keep the remaining mixture in the refrigerator. 4. Remove the pan from the freezer and top with the remaining mocha mixture, pressing evenly and firmly. Smooth the remaining cashew mixture on top. Pour the ganache over the top, spreading with a spatula. Return to the freezer to set another 2 hours or overnight. To serve, soften in the refrigerator for 2 hours or at room temperature for 30 minutes. Serve with Whipped Coconut Milk and cacao nibs.

BAKED ZUCCHINI BOATS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 202 (126 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 94mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 5g

FRENCH CRÊPES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 841 (378 from fat); FAT 44g (sat. 22g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 155mg; CARB 100g; FIBER 21g; PROTEIN 17g

BLACK BEAN–TOMATO TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 559 (332 from fat); FAT 38g (sat. 8g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 921mg; CARB 51g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 6g

Chocolate Ganache MAKES 1 CUP

1 cup (8 ounces) 72% or higher dark chocolate squares 2 tablespoons coconut oil 2 tablespoons almond or coconut milk 1. In a double boiler, place all of the ingredients and heat over low heat until fully melted. Stir until the mixture is smooth and thickens slightly.

Whipped Coconut Milk 1 (14-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk, refrigerated 1. Drain the coconut milk can of liquid and scoop the cream to a bowl. (The coconut water can be drunk or added to smoothies.) Whip with a mixer to make fluffy (or just scoop and serve). ■

WILD RICE BURGERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1 8 2 (3 4 f ro m fa t) ; FAT 4g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 478mg; CARB 31g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 6g

SPAGHETTI SQUASH BOUNTY SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 241 (159 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 821mg; CARB 20g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 4g

CHOCOLATE MOCHA CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1108 (775 from fat); FAT 91g (sat. 40g); CHOL 1mg; CAPTION SODIUM 80mg; CARB 68g; FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 19g

summer 2016 real food 51

A Champion

for the Home Cook

Moving from behind the scenes with Julia Child to her own TV shows and cookbooks, Sara Moulton looks to help the home cook with tips, tricks and approachable recipes



Sara Moulton isn’t called “the hardest-working woman in the food business” for nothing. A petite blonde with the no-nonsense edge common to born-and-bred New Yorkers, Moulton started cooking behind the camera before the current “cheftestants” scrambling for screen time could even wield knives. Ever since she started as the host of the Food Network’s Cooking Live show in 1997, she has been a star in food media, whether behind the stove on Sara’s Secrets and Sara’s Weeknight Meals or fielding phone calls on Good Morning America, where she was the on-air food editor for 15 years. Moulton’s connections to food television started with none other than Julia Child—she landed a position as a behind-thescenes assistant to the doyenne on Julia Child & More Company back in 1979. She packed in a wealth of other experiences over the next 40 years, too—as a chef in France, Boston and New York City as well as a fixture at Gourmet Gourmet, where she spent four years in the test kitchen and another 21 running the magazine’s executive dining room. She has also taught classes all over the country and has written extensively, including a weekly column for the Associated Press. And then there are her cookbooks: Her fourth, Sara Moulton’s Home Cooking 101: How to Make Everything Taste Better, just hit shelves this spring. That book is the culmination of all those experiences— something she could have never foreseen 40 years ago.

“My mom was always a very good cook, and when I was in high school she began to travel to Europe,” Moulton explains. “When she’d come home, she’d have dinner parties around the food she ate there. We’d use the New York Times Cook Book Book—it had the recipes for then-exotic dishes like veal saltimbocca, moussaka.” Moulton fondly remembers the cooking—and the eating—but says she never considered making a career in food. “I just didn’t think it was something women did.” Instead, she went off to the University of Michigan Ann Arbor, where she happily cooked and waitressed her way through a major in the History of Ideas. But her mother had other ideas, and sent off a note to Craig Claiborne—the author of the New York Times Cook Book Book—to ask, “My daughter wants to be a chef; what should she do?” Claiborne replied, advising that Moulton should either go to Lausanne, Switzerland, where he’d studied, or to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA)—the most prestigious culinary school in the United States. Moulton wasn’t interested. “I didn’t want to leave Ann Arbor, my boyfriend and my life there,” she says. She applied anyway, figuring that the CIA wouldn’t admit her, and she’d get her mom off her back. “But they did!” Moulton exclaims. “So I asked my boyfriend, ‘You don’t want me to leave, right?’ And he said, ‘Yeah I do, I want to see other people.’ So I was outta there.”

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are no different than restaurant chefs. They, too, make the same thing over and over; they perfect their recipes.” —Sara Moulton

54 real food summer 2016

Other recipes highlight simple techniques that make a serious difference in any dish, such as the importance of slicing onions with the grain (they cook more evenly, so the texture is better—a factor that’s important in achieving the satiny creaminess of her root vegetable soup) or buying whole canned tomatoes rather than chopped (they break down better, as they are free of the preservatives manufacturers use to ensure the chunks don’t disintegrate, and so they work better in her speedy marinara sauce). And then there are the entirely new ideas that have come out of her love of research and recipe testing. “In the test kitchen [at Gourmet] in the mid-’80s, we’d be given an ingredient and told to come up with 10 recipes,” she says.“Once I was given my all-time favorite: tomatoes.” She had the idea of a tomato-basil tart with bacon in the crust, but couldn’t nail it. “The real problem was with the tomatoes; they’d give off so much water that it would water the filling down,” she recalls. “Finally a light bulb went off; let me salt them and get the liquid out of there. It not only worked, but the tomatoes were also so tasty, more ‘tomatoey.’ ” Now she always salts them ahead of time, and shows off the advantages in a recipe for Tomato-Avocado Salad, where salting makes the slices feel meatier, more equal to the buttery richness of the avocado, and sweet enough to counter the sprinkling of mint and serrano chilies over the top. She does the same thing with zucchini, finding that it transforms “a notoriously bland and watery squash into something sweet and shining.” Shredded, salted and drained, it can even be dense and flavorful enough to turn into a burger-like patty, which she stuffs into a pita and tops with garlicky yogurt—a meal with enough lusty, hearty flavor to sate a meat eater for a night. Moulton is also generous to give credit to all the experts she has met over the years, on her shows and through her connections in the food world. (The index of “guest chefs” whose wisdom informed some of the recipes in this latest book is a terrific resource, a guide to other inspiring, thoughtful cooks.) But Moulton is not above considering advice from anyone willing to give it. Her no-stir polenta recipe, for example, came from a flight attendant she engaged in conversation; her improved version of the hard-boiled egg came from a couple fans of her show, Carol Montag and Jonathan Horwich. “In the food world, we all learn from each other,” she explains. “But also, back when I


“…good home cooks

Two years later, Moulton graduated with highest honors and never looked back. After Julia Child encouraged her to put in some time in a professional French kitchen, she went on to work at the Henri IV Restaurant in Chartres, France; La Tulipe, a three-star restaurant in New York City, and The Harvest, a Boston classic still going strong today. Her most important move, however, didn’t come until she decided to leave the restaurant world to have a family. “That’s when I realized how difficult it was to get dinner on the table when you have a family,” she says. Moulton quickly discovered that her background was only of limited use in the home kitchen. She quickly found that the idea of mise en place place— the often-repeated advice to assemble all tools and prepare all ingredients before beginning to cook—while a central tenet of the classical kitchens she worked in, has no place in the kitchen of a multitasking working mom; you simply don’t have time for that. Instead, she advises, just put a pot of water on to boil and start an onion sizzling in some oil; you can chop the garlic and tomatoes while it softens, saving valuable time and minimizing clean up. “Having professional experience helped in some cases,” she says, “but some of them I just figured out because I was a mom and had to do it like anyone else.” Those everyday challenges inspired her to change her focus to home cooking, something she has done every day of her life since leaving the professional kitchen, cooking for her husband and two children while working multiple jobs. Home Cooking 101 is a compilation of all the tips and truths she has discovered during that real-life experience, every recipe a vehicle for the techniques she has found pay off well in the tricky balance between saving time and achieving flavor. Some of her recipes, in fact, simply drive home the importance of paying attention to flavor, as in “How to Make Butter at Home.” You might wonder why, with all of the butters we have available to us from home and abroad, anyone would bother? But she tells a vivid story about renowned French chef Jacques Pépin walking into one of the kitchens she worked in and tossing out blocks of butter, because, as he’d explained, butter loses its fresh, milky flavor very quickly. Her remedy: Take one quart of heavy cream and spend 20 minutes whipping and kneading it into a supple block of butter. One taste and heavy cream may usurp butter on your grocery list.

worked at Gourmet Gourmet, we had a column called Sugar & Spice where people would write in with recipes, and we had to test them. It really showed me that good home cooks are no different than restaurant chefs. They, too, make the same thing over and over; they perfect their recipes.” Her experience with call-ins on cooking shows only reinforced this belief. “Usually [people] called to ask questions, but sometimes they’d call to tell me how to do something. I remember one person taking me all the way through the process of making sauerkraut.” At the same time, Moulton worries that there might be fewer able home cooks today than there were 20 years ago. “There is so much more information out there,” she says, “and everybody talks the talk because of Internet and food TV. But my question is, are they actually cooking, or do they just know what panko is?” In Home Cooking 101, Moulton manages to address each of those audiences, putting forth a primer for those who have spent more time watching than doing, as well as plenty of aspirational dishes for people looking to step up their technique. How you engage with it doesn’t matter so long as you’re cooking, she says. “When people ask me for advice, I really do just tell them: just cook! There are only two things you can’t fix: If you burnt it, or if you put your potatoes in a food processor—you will have wallpaper paste; those potatoes are done, over for the world.” If you avoid those pitfalls, you’re good to go. Perfection, she suggests, is overrated when it comes to a home-cooked dinner. “Julia used to say, ‘Never apologize, never explain,’” Moulton says. “Nobody cares as much as you do; they just want to relax and have fun.” ■


Seared Scallop Salad with Spicy Watermelon Vinaigrette MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 cup chopped seedless watermelon 2 large makrut lime leaves (aka kaffir lime leaves), or 2 teaspoons freshly grated lime zest 1x 1-inch piece peeled ginger, coarsely chopped 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1⁄2 to 1 serrano chile, coarsely chopped with the seeds 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 11⁄2 teaspoons fish sauce (I like the Tiparos and Three Crabs brands) 1 teaspoon sugar 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, preferably grapeseed, divided Kosher salt 2 cups torn fresh mint or cilantro leaves or a mix of both 2 cups coarsely shredded carrots 4 cups shredded napa cabbage 1 large red bell pepper, medium chopped 1⁄2 cup chopped toasted cashews, optional Wondra flour or all-purpose flour for dredging 1 pound medium sea scallops, preferably dry or day boat, cleaned freshly ground black pepper 1. Combine the watermelon, makrut lime leaves or lime zest, ginger, garlic, serrano chile, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and 3 tablespoons of the oil in a blender and puree until smooth. Add salt to taste. Set the dressing aside. 2. Combine the mint, carrots, cabbage, bell pepper and cashews, if using, in a large bowl and set the salad aside. 3. Spread out the flour on a piece of parchment on the counter. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Working in batches, toss the scallops in the flour, lifting the parchment paper on both sides to move the scallops around; transfer the scallops to a strainer and shake off the excess flour. 4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the scallops to the skillet, reduce the heat to medium, and sauté for 2 minutes per side or until just cooked through. Transfer with tongs to a plate and set aside to cool slightly. 5. Add half the dressing to the salad and toss well. Divide the mixture among 4 plates, top each portion with some of the scallops, and drizzle with extra dressing.

summer 2016 real food 55


Cool Creations Stir things up by pairing cocktails with summer fare BY MARY SUBIALKA


ce-cold cocktails can be refreshing to guests at any dinner table. When pairing cocktails with food, it helps to think of white spirits such as gin and vodka comparable to white wine, and brown spirits such as bourbon and whiskey comparable to red wine. Spirits can pair well with foods that you tend to pair with those wines, suggest Karen Page and her husband, Andrew Dornenburg, co-authors of What to Drink with What You Eat and The Flavor Bible. The white spirits are likely partners with fish and chicken, and the brown spirits with red meat and barbecue. “We love a Mojito (light rum, mint, lime juice, sugar, club soda, over ice) with simple grilled chicken,” says Page. If you’re serving a cold chicken pasta salad with a mayonnaise-based sauce, try a gin Martini—the herbaceousness of the gin will play off the herbs garnishing the pasta salad. Whiskey lemonade (and a few dashes of Angostura bitters), bourbon, or a Whiskey Daisy (whiskey, orange curaçao, fresh lemon and soda over crushed ice) pair well with steak, barbecued pork and the all-time favorite burger. Watch the amount of alcohol in your cocktail (no more than 11⁄2 ounces per drink), cautions Page, as too much alcohol can make your cocktail taste “hot” and spoil its pairing with food. Have fun “researching” compatible flavors to help cocktails and food bring out the best of each other this summer. ■


56 real food summer 2016

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