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COMPLIMENTARY

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SUMMER 2015

kebabs

Fire up the grill for summertime fare

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FISH ON: Grilled seafood creations SUMMER TABLE: Fresh al fresco recipes AVOCADOS: The versatile fruit

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Making A Difference Physician changes lives inside and outside the clinic. CONGRATULATIONS to Dr. Charles Crutchfield, III, on his selection as a ‘Top Doctor’ every year since 2000! Dr. Crutchfield has also been recognized by “Minnesota Physician” as one of the 100 most influential health care leaders in Minnesota. “I want all my patients to look good and feel great with beautiful skin,” says Charles E. Crutchfield III, M.D. “When you come to Crutchfield Dermatology, the emphasis is on quality, in-depth skincare knowledge and service. That’s what really sets us apart.” A long list of awards and honors is evidence that Dr. Crutchfield is good at what he does. Recently selected by NBC News/The Grio as one of the 100 most influential African-Americans in the U.S., he is humbled by the recognition he receives and shares the credit. “I realize that no one gets where they are without the help of many people. I’m now at a point in my career where I can give back.” Dr. Crutchfield’s professional accomplishments are matched by generous community outreach and support. His commitment to the community runs deep, especially for students – through scholarships, textbook donations, and mentorship. A Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School, he is a mentor in the University of Minnesota’s Future Doctors of America program, where undergraduate students of color shadow Dr. Crutchfield during patient appointments. They learn the art of medicine and are introduced to a wide variety of opportunities. Dr. Crutchfield recently received the Minnesota Medical Association Foundation’s Minority Affairs Meritorious Service Award as an outstanding mentor dedicated to students within the program. His medical students at the University of Minnesota Medical School have honored him three times as Teacher of the Year, and Dr. Crutchfield’s preceptorships through Harlem’s Touro College of Medicine so impressed two medical student recipients that they relocated to the Twin Cities to practice. Dr. Crutchfield’s definition of community enthusiastically includes the Minnesota Twins, and his love of baseball occasionally surfaces in his philanthropic work. During his residency, he learned a hospice patient and fellow baseball fan dreamed of meeting Kirby Puckett. He arranged the meeting, and the Mayo Clinic acknowledged his kindness with the Karis Humanitarian Award. When Twins player Bert Blyleven accepted a dare to eat night crawlers in exchange for a hundred dollar donation to Parkinson’s research, Dr. Crutchfield upped the ante to a thousand dollars, challenging other medical clinics to join him. His challenge raised almost $15,000 for the Parkinson’s Association of Minnesota. Dr. Crutchfield also donates to the Twins Community Fund to build ballparks for children in the inner city. “Sports give children focus and a sense of personal achievement,” he explains. “Many sports require a substantial investment, but baseball is financially accessible. You give a kid a glove, a ball, and a bat, and they are

good to go.” Remembering school days when he struggled with dyslexia himself, Crutchfield serves as a Hero Benefactor for the Reading Center, stepping in when available scholarships aren’t sufficient to cover the number of hopeful students. For the High school for Recording Arts, founded in Saint Paul to encourage at-risk youth to finish high school by linking lyric writing to English and marketing to mathematics, Dr. Crutchfield contributes funding and scholarships. Dr. Crutchfield provides substantial support, including financial contributions, and he encourages his staff to participate in breast cancer, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s walks. He has also been given the “Patriotic Employer Award” from the Minnesota National Guard for his support of our troops and the “Gold Triangle Award” from the American Academy of Dermatology for promoting health-care awareness in underserved areas. He offered free skin and scar treatments for the survivors of the tragic Minneapolis 35W bridge collapse and received the first “Physician Health Care Hero” by Medica, Twin Cities Business and KARE11 for “Outstanding contributors to the quality of health care in Minnesota.” His philanthropy also extends to supporting Camp Discovery for children with skin diseases. For over a decade, Dr. Crutchfield has been an active supporter and nominator, dedicating all royalties from the dermatology textbook he coauthored to the program. Once a child is accepted into the camp, the entire experience is covered by donations. “As a child, I loved going to camp. But as a dermatologist working with children with skin diseases, I see so many kids ashamed to go because they are afraid to expose themselves to being teased. Camp Discovery is a place where kids can be kids again.” Dr. Crutchfield’s effort extends to establishing a lectureship at the University of Minnesota honoring his parents, Susan Crutchfield M.D., then the youngest ever and first African-American female graduate of the medical school, and Charles Crutchfield, Sr., M.D., the first practicing African- American Obstetrician-Gynecologist in the Twin Cities who went on to deliver almost 10,000 babies. He has also co-authored a children’s book for “little leaguers” extolling the virtues of being sun-safe and using sun Protection. Little Charles Hits a Home Run is available on Amazon.com, Kindle, Nook and iPad. Proceeds benefit the Twins Community Fund and Camp Discovery. His contributions continue. His latest medical endeavor is an initiative requiring auto manufacturers, cell phone companies, and insurance companies to equip cars with technology disabling a phone’s texting function while driving. Visit crutchfielddermatology.com/safetexting for more information. For Dr. Crutchfield, giving back has become a way of life.

Crutchfield Dermatology • 1185 Town Centre Drive • Suite 101 • Eagan • 651-209-3600 www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com


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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.


contents

Features

real food summer 2015

18 Your Summer Table Hang out and eat well with easy-to-love dishes shared with family and friends BY LISA LEMKE

26 Summer on a Stick Get fired up for delicious, creative kebabs BY BRUCE AIDELLS

36 Incredible Avocado Avocados are the perfect marriage of taste, texture, and healthfulness—even in a favorite dessert BY ROBIN ASBELL

46 Fish On...The Grill This summer, travel only to your backyard for the freshest seafood hot off the grill EDITED BY PETER KAMINSKY

52 Chef Curtis Stone On making time for the good things in life BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Protein-packed vegetarian quinoa taco salad RECIPE BY KATIE PARKER

6 Kitchen Skills Make juicy stuffed burgers like a pro BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Coconut: The versatile superfood BY TAMMY GALVIN

56 Pairings Think pink with food-friendly rosé BY MARY SUBIALKA


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Our Cover

Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp with Maple and Mustard Glaze, Butternut Squash, and Red Onion (page 29). Photographs by Terry Brennan

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PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES MINDY LOOYENGA AND KELLY WIEBE EDITORIAL INTERN AMBER NEWMAN

VOLUME 11, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse.


bites

Scrumptious and Satisfying—Sans Meat Protein-packed vegetarian dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner—dessert, too.

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nergy: Couldn’t we all use a little more? Protein plays an essential role in fueling our busy lives. For many, the source of protein tends to be meat, but there are many benefits of plantbased and vegetarian options that provide other necessary nutrients. People worry that there’s no way to reach their protein needs on a vegetarian meal plan, but that’s not the case. In The High-Protein Vegetarian Cookbook, Katie Parker, with the help of registered dietitian Kristin Smith, has crafted fulfilling yet meatless recipes made with whole foods. From Carrot Cake Waffles with Maple Cream Cheese Glaze—a surprising 20 grams of protein in each serving—to a Double Bean Jucy Lucy, you’ll be cooking up creative meatless dishes that really satisfy. Protein-dense whole grains and beans provide loads of fiber, which helps you feel fuller longer. And unlike animal products, they are free from saturated fat and cholesterol. They are also a lot friendlier to your wallet. Colorful quinoa (pronounced KEEN-wah) is a complete protein, like eggs, milk, and tofu. It’s an easy-to-make whole grain shaped like little beads that burst open and curl when cooked, adding delightful texture to any dish. The bright combination of fresh tomatoes, cilantro, and avocado in the Three-Bean Quinoa Taco Salad tops a beautiful and hearty vegetarian meal. —Amber Newman

PHOTO AND RECIPE REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE HIGH-PROTEIN VEGETARIAN COOKBOOK, BY KATIE PARKER AND KRISTEN SMITH, PHD, RD, LD. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATIE PARKER: THE COUNTRYMAN PRESS, 2015.

Three-Bean Quinoa Taco Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Quinoa salads are one of my favorite weekday lunches because they keep well throughout the week. The quinoa and beans provide protein, while the romaine and avocado add crunch and creaminess. The Cilantro Lime Vinaigrette elevates all the flavors in the salad, and adds tanginess and extra freshness. –Katie Parker 1 2 1 1 1 2 4 ½ 1

cup quinoa cups vegetable broth cup black beans, drained and rinsed cup white kidney beans, drained and rinsed cup garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed Roma tomatoes, diced cups chopped romaine (about 6 ounces) cup cilantro, chopped (plus more for garnish) avocado, cubed

Cilantro Lime Vinaigrette ¼ cup fresh cilantro ¼ yellow onion, chopped 1 Roma tomato, seeded and chopped 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar juice of 1 lime 2 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon paprika 2½ tablespoons olive oil

NUTRITION

1. Combine the quinoa and vegetable broth in a medium-sized pot over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce to a simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until all the liquid is absorbed. 2. While the quinoa cooks, get the dressing together: Combine all of the ingredients except the olive oil in a food processor. Process until very finely chopped. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil with the processor running. 3. Combine the cooked quinoa, beans, tomatoes, romaine, and cilantro in a large THREE-BEAN QUINOA TACO SALAD: bowl. Pour in the dressing and toss thoroughly. PER SERVING: CALORIES 338; FAT 12g (sat. 2g); CARB 47g; FIBER 11g; 4. Divide into six bowls, and top with avocado and additional cilantro. Only add the PROTEIN 13g avocado immediately before serving.

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kitchen skills

Filled with Flavor Tips for making delicious stuffed burgers BY JASON ROSS

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s burgers claim their spot among favorite sandwiches, people search for new ways to make the ultimate burger. Enter the stuffed burger, formed with hot cheese and other creative garnishes stuffed in the middle that melt out flavor with every bite. Here are tips to create successful stuffed burgers at home. After making the Bacon Cheddar Green Onion and the Greek stuffed burgers, get creative. Try spinach artichoke dip, nacho fixings, or Reuben stuffed burgers—or mix it up with fun combinations of your own.

Tricks of the Trade Less is more with stuffed burgers. A ¼ cup does the trick for a 6-ounce stuffed burger. Too much stuffing makes for a sloppy unmanageable stuffed burger, and too many ingredients in the stuffing makes for a complex fussy burger. Keep the stuffing relatively simple— three ingredients or less—and use accent garnishes on the burger and bun to highlight what’s inside the stuffing.

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Avoid over-working or over-handling ground beef. Similar to pie dough, the more ground beef is handled, the more the proteins stretch and toughen. In general, a loosely formed burger will be more tender, meaty, and tasty.

Do not pre-stuff burgers more than one day ahead. While most fillings for stuffed burgers can be made and stored in advance, the burgers themselves, after stuffing, should be cooked within a day, and do not store well.


Bacon Cheddar Green Onion Stuffing

Greek Stuffed Burger Stuffing

MAKES 6 FILLING SERVINGS

Here is a tasty burger with a healthy side, with sautéed spinach, and flavors of a Greek salad.

If there’s any stuffed burger that’s going to bring them running, this is it. Mix a little green onion into the stuffing for a meltingly rich bacon burger packed with flavor. ¼ pound bacon, diced 3 green onions, white and green sections, sliced fine 1 cup grated mild cheddar cheese 1. In a sauté pan cook the diced bacon on low-medium heat, for roughly 8 minutes, depending on thickness of bacon, until crispy. Remove bacon to a paper towel-lined bowl and allow it to cool. Discard most, but not all, of the bacon fat, leaving a thin layer in pan to cook the green onions. Add the sliced green onions to the pan and cook on low-medium heat, for roughly 2 minutes, until the onions are softened and fragrant. Remove onions and allow to cool in a bowl for a few minutes. 2. Mix the bacon with the cooled green onions using a wood spoon. Add grated cheddar and mix until the bacon, green onions, and cheddar are evenly distributed. 3. Follow directions below for making and stuffing the burgers.

MAKES 6 FILLING SERVINGS

1 1⁄4 11⁄2 ½

tablespoon olive oil onion, finely minced cups (5 ounce bag) roughly chopped spinach teaspoon salt pinch ground black pepper 3⁄4 cup crumbled feta cheese

1. Add oil to sauté pan and sweat the onions on low-medium heat. Cook for roughly 3 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, until onions are translucent and soft, but not browned. 2. Add the spinach, salt, and pepper and stir, cooking for another 3 to 5 minutes until spinach is fully wilted. 3. Transfer the spinach mixture to a bowl and allow it to cool. 4. After cooled, stir in feta crumbles with wooden spoon. 5. Follow directions below for making and stuffing the burgers.

Stuffed Burgers MAKES 6 BURGERS

While both of the stuffings can be made ahead, up to five days if stored in an airtight container, assemble the burgers no more than one day before cooking. 2¼ pounds ground beef, divided into 12 equal parts, roughly 3 ounces each 6 hamburger buns

NUTRITION

1. To make a stuffed burger, form two equal sized patties for every burger. Patties should be roughly 3 ounces each for a 6-ounce finished stuffed burger. 2. Use a mold lined with plastic wrap to make patties identical in shape and size, by gently pushing ground meat into the plasticlined molds. A larger biscuit cutter or plastic lid works well. Make the patties a bit thinner in the center and thicker toward the edges. Pinch the edges, and push a bit harder in the center of the patty. The burger will naturally plump and get thicker in the center as it cooks and shrinks. A patty with slightly thicker edges will keep its shape better and avoid a rounded balloon-like burger. 3. Place ¼ cup of stuffing on one of the patties, leaving 1⁄2 inch around the edges. Sprinkle a pinch of salt along the edge of the patty. The salt will start to break down the proteins in the meat, making it tacky and wet, which will help make a good seal. Place another patty on top, making a sandwich with two patties and stuffing in the middle. Pinch the patties together to encapsulate the filling. Focus on the edges and making a good seal, so the filling does not escape as the burger cooks. 4. Poke a few holes around the center of the patty on each side of the stuffed burger with a toothpick, before cooking. This will work like a vent to release steam, and avoid the burger expanding like a balloon as it cooks. 5. Heat the grill to medium-high. Clean and season the grill with a bit of oil so the burgers do not stick to it. Sprinkle the outside of stuffed burgers with a pinch of salt and pepper. 6. Cook burgers 6 to 8 minutes per side with the grill covered. The centers need to be cooked and fully warmed or melted. The temperature of the stuffing should reach 165°F per FDA recommendations. If you do not have a thermometer, look for bits of the cheese in the filling to be bubbly or trying to escape the burger. 7. When the burgers are cooked, serve immediately with toasted buns. Serve Bacon Cheddar Green Onion burgers with traditional garnishes such as: sliced tomato, leaf lettuce, pickles, mayonnaise, and ketchup. Serve Greek Stuffed burgers with Greek salad garnishes: sliced cucumber, romaine lettuce, chopped kalamata olives, yogurt dressing, and extra feta. ■ BACON CHEDDAR GREEN ONION BURGER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 524 (257 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 12g); CHOL 134mg; SODIUM 501mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 41g

GREEK BURGER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 478 (222 from fat); FAT 25g (sat. 10g); CHOL 123mg; SODIUM 715mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 38g

summer 2015 real food 7


contributors

Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher, and private chef. She likes to add special touches to dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains, with an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is Gluten-Free Pasta: More than 100 Fast and Flavorful Recipes with Low- and No-Carb Options, and she is the author of Juice It!, Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes No Meat No Dairy All Delicious, The New Whole Grains Cookbook Cookbook, and the New Vegetarian.

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Terry Brennan

Jason Ross

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

8 real food summer 2015

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

Lisa Lemke

is a freelance food consultant, recipe developer, food stylist, and television chef in Sweden. She writes about food in various media, including magazines, books, radio, television, and advertising. She is the author of Till Grillat and Till Sommaren, on which The Summer Table is based. Lemke has previously appeared on the nationally broadcast television entertainment program Summerevening and starred as chef and host of the popular morning show My Kitchen on Sweden’s popular TV4 with Tommy Myllymäkki, one of Sweden’s biggest chefs, where she continues to give viewers recipes and culinary inspiration. Lemke lives in the countryside, in an old vicarage, on the west coast of Sweden, with her husband Marcus Nordgren, also a chef, and their 2-year-old daughter, Lilly. Recently Lemke converted an older building on her property into a popular stone-oven pizzeria, Prostens Pizza.

Bruce Aidells

founded Aidells Sausage Company in California in 1983. He left the company in 2002 to pursue food writing. A regular contributor to Bon Appétit and Fine Cooking, he has also shared his expertise in several cookbooks, including The Complete Meat Cookbook and his latest, The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today’s Meat. He is a host of Good Cookin’ with Bruce Aidells on livewellnetwork.com and invites you to join him there and on his Good Cookin’ page on Facebook.

Tara Q. Thomas

trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, and is Executive Editor at Wine & Spirits magazine. Author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and a contributor to the forthcoming Oxford Companion to Cheese, she lives in Brooklyn, New York, juggling laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.


Lunds & Byerlys

LUNDS Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Edina: 952-926-6833 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka: 952-935-0198 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222

BYERLYS Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul: 651-735-6340 Woodbury: 651-999-1200

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FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

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welcome

COULD YOU GO A DAY WITHOUT YOUR SMARTPHONE?

T

he answer for nearly half of us is “no,” according to a recent survey by Bank of America. In fact, respondents said they consider their smartphone just as important as their car and more important than such staples as coffee and television. Millennials are even more attached to their mobile device as they consider it more important than their deodorant and toothbrush. While I can—and do—occasionally go a day without my smartphone, I must admit, it’s not easy. That little hand-held device is our connection to the world. It’s great for capturing special moments with family and friends, quickly checking the weather forecast, and easily getting the news of the day. It’s also pretty useful for making a phone call. Today, approximately 75 percent of all adults in the United States own a smartphone. That’s up from 50 percent just a few years ago. When you include tablets, some studies say nearly 90 percent own at least one smartphone or tablet. Here at Lunds & Byerlys, these trends serve as an important reminder to us that providing you with a truly sensational shopping experience means we also need to be meeting your needs in the digital space before, during, and after your visit. During the past few years, we’ve been working hard to do just that through a variety of digital offerings, including email, text, social media, and our Lunds & Byerlys App. Some of these digital offerings are designed to provide you with added value, such as our text club and

e-newsletters that include exclusive offers. In other digital channels, such as social media and our Go o d Taste blog, we focus on sharing expertise Tres to make your next Lund meal more memorable (see page 10). As more and more of you connect digitally with us inside our stores, we’re striving to provide you with a great experience by continuing to strengthen our wireless signal and increase our wireless bandwidth. Whether you can go a week, a day, or just hours without your mobile device, I hope you’re able to find some time to occasionally disconnect from the digital world to enjoy my favorite form of communication, which is person to person. I hope you have a wonderful summer and continue to enjoy Real Food. Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9


Lunds & Byerlys digital offerings

Connect with Us

We love food, too. Let’s talk. Whether you’re searching for a new recipe, looking for our latest deals, or simply have a question, we’re here for you! Check out all the different ways you can connect with us: Sign Up For Our Emails Get the latest food trends, recipes, and coupons sent right to your inbox. Sign up at LundsandByerlys.com and tell us what you want to hear about: - Huge Deals: weekly sale items and exclusive deals - Good Taste: food inspiration and recipes - Organic & Natural: expertise, health and wellness - Wines & Spirits: latest deals and trends Join Our Text Club Text FRESH to 55955* to get exclusive deals sent to your phone. Download Our App Tired of forgetting your grocery list at home? Curious when your favorite cereal is on sale? Trying to find the store closest to you? We have an app for that. To download the app, text LBAPP to 55955*. Like Us On Facebook Find out what’s happening in our stores, from meal ideas and hot trends to huge deals and events. Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys

Follow Us On Twitter See what everyone’s talking about! We highlight new foods, tips, and more. Have a compliment, question, or concern? We’ll respond to you ASAP. Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Follow Us On Instagram Check out meal ideas, how-to videos, and ways to make your table look simply delicious. Instagram.com/LundsandByerlys Follow Us On Pinterest Food expertise is always on display here. It’s your one-stop shop for our favorite recipe ideas, kitchen tips, and crazy-good food pics. Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys ■

*Message and data rates may apply. Text STOP to cancel, text HELP for help. By signing up you agree to receive marketing text messages, which may be sent through an automatic telephone dialing system, from Lunds & Byerlys at the mobile number provided. By signing up, you are confirming you are over the age of 13. Opt-in not required as a condition to purchase goods and services from Lunds & Byerlys.

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Lunds and Byerlys what’s new

Introducing

Nourish Thursdays A healthier way to sample BY JANICE COX, RD, LD Lunds & Byerlys registered dietitian/nutritionist

HERBS ALINA G - FOTOLIA.COM BERRIES DMITRY ERSLER - FOTOLIA.COM

W

ho doesn’t love samples at the grocery store? What will there be today—a new variety of apple or the latest Lunds & Byerlys creation? Sampling foods certainly adds fun to your shopping experience, offering a great way to get inspired and try before you buy. We frequently get requests for additional healthy samples to try. You spoke and we listened: Every Thursday at all Lunds & Byerlys we offer Nourish Thursday to help you make the connection between food, lifestyle, feeling better, and better health. Nourish Thursdays feature delicious and nutritious foods that are simple and pure. We highlight the nutritional advantages of nourishing foods and how they support your overall needs. Some stores will also share information on how to boost your nourishment by adding concentrated nutrients such as herbs, superfoods, top grade supplements, probiotics, and even topical essential oils. Why are we doing this? Many of us are looking for solutions to help us eat better to feel better. We’re trying to make healthier food choices to reduce the risk of disease, fight obesity, and decrease reliance on prescription medications. We’re also looking for preventative solutions. Data shows each segment of the population is interested in improved eating. Nourish Thursdays are hosted by our FoodE Experts, health and beauty care specialists, and myself. Our team is trained to speak with you about the health benefits of each sample, and can offer recipes and creative ideas on how to use nutritious ingredients. Each month has a health theme for Nourish Thursday. Here’s what’s coming this summer: MAY: HERBS FOR HEALTH May’s Nourish samplings include Lunds & Byerlys fresh herbs, with recipe suggestions for seasoned meat, fish, and poultry as grilling season gets into full swing. What do herbs have to do with health? In addition to being delicious, herbs can be powerful sources of antioxidants that reduce inflammation in our bodies to help protect from chronic disease. Additionally, using fresh herbs punches up flavor without adding salt. JUNE: NOURISH ITALIAN STYLE In June we’re Nourishing Italian style. Think delicious garlic, tomatoes, basil, and olive oil— basics of Italian cuisine and the Mediterranean diet. In addition to the great taste of these wonderful foods, the health benefits are plentiful, ranging from reducing cholesterol and managing weight to helping memory and improving digestive health.

JULY: BOOST IMMUNITY WITH BERRIES We’ll focus on superfoods in July, specifically berries, with samples of summer berries and amazing recipes for your health and enjoyment. What exactly are superfoods and why do we love them so much? Superfoods are nutrient-dense, health-empowering foods. Berries, for example, are low in calories, rich in fiber, and high in antioxidants, vitamins, and plant nutrients called phytochemicals. The powerful nutrient components in berries can lower our risk of developing diabetes, heart disease, cancer, and other chronic health conditions. Taking our “medicine” never tasted so good. At Lunds & Byerlys we consider you, our customers, to be part of our family. We offer Nourish Thursdays for you, for us, and for our future together in good health. See you Thursday! ■

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11


Lunds & Byerlys

Clockwise from top: Marvel Salad, Minnesota Nice Salad, Chicken Pad Thai Salad, Paleo Chicken Ginger Salad

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Lunds & Byerlys deli

Sensational Salads Chef-crafted and available exclusively in our delis BY TIM TESCH Executive Chef, Product Development

B

eing the executive chef for Lunds & Byerlys has enabled me to do what I love most: Create new, innovative, and delicious foods for our customers to discover and enjoy. Most recently I had the pleasure of working with a team to reinvent and recreate the popular grab & go salads we offer. These salads are composed of remarkable ingredients that are carefully arranged on a bed of greens, and topped with foods that enhance each other’s flavors, along with a specifically chosen dressing that deliciously brings all the elements together. Salads that truly look as good as they taste! As our team developed these salads, we focused first on fresh, high-quality ingredients, sourced as locally as possible. We considered food and dietary trends, flavor profiles with a broad appeal, and clean, nutritious ingredients. You will find healthy, unique greens and lettuces, topped with everything from pomegranate seeds, edamame, or fresh pears to grilled cilantro-mint chicken, wild rice, or sweet dried cherries. These salads are so complete they often are the main meal, taking a side position to nothing. It truly takes a team of people to bring new ideas to our stores, and I’d like to thank all who worked on this project. I also have to give some credit to my personal “focus group” at home. My wife and our three daughters tasted every one of the new salads as they were developed. I value everything they say—they just tell me, “That’s a winner, Dad,” or, “You don’t have to make that one again.” Many others throughout our Lunds & Byerlys extended family of employees also tasted these salads and provided us with valuable feedback. You can now find our delicious creations in all Lunds & Byerlys deli departments!

HERE ARE SOME OF MY FAVORITES: Kale, Caesar! with Chicken Baby kale, herb grilled chicken, shaved Parmesan, garlic focaccia croutons, and grape tomatoes with mustard Caesar dressing. Minnesota Nice Tender cooked wild rice, pomegranate seeds, celery, grape tomatoes, dried apricots, Marcona almonds, and pecans on a bed of romaine and arugula. A sweet pomegranate dressing brings all the flavors and textures together. Paleo Chicken Ginger Five-spice-rubbed chicken, French green beans tossed with sesame seeds, red bell peppers, carrots, sliced almonds, and fresh key lime halves on napa cabbage slaw with ginger sesame dressing. Marvel Protein-packed edamame, sweet dried cherries, crisp veggies, and pistachio nuts arranged on petite whole-leaf lettuces with smokehouse cider dressing. Chicken Pad Thai Grilled cilantro-mint chicken breast, rice vermicelli noodles, red bell peppers, fresh orange, daikon sprouts, and cashews on a bed of napa cabbage slaw. The pad Thai dressing with lemongrass and ginger adds even more punch to this flavorful salad. Pear Gorg Spicy sweet Bosc pears, Black River Gorgonzola, pomegranate seeds, and pecans on a bed of petite whole-leaf lettuces and smokehouse cider dressing. Ciao Bella Capacola ham, mortadella, fresh mozzarella, marinated mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, and pepperoncini arranged on romaine and baby arugula with balsamic vinaigrette. Kobe Cobb American Kobe beef, thick-cut bacon, grape tomatoes, yellow bell peppers, red onion, and crumbled Gorgonzola on a bed of romaine and baby arugula with blue cheese dressing. We’re continuing to develop even more grab & go salads and would love to hear your feedback, along with other salads you would like to see us create. Please enjoy! ■

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13


Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

LUNDS & BYERLYS POPCORN Our new fresh popped, ready-to-eat popcorn is packed full of flavor and made with non-GMO corn. From salt and pepper popcorn with onion and garlic seasoning or our bar-b-q seasoned with chili and chipotle to sea salt caramel popcorn drizzled in dark chocolate, you won’t be able to eat just one handful.

Did you know? Serve Bar-B-Q Popcorn as a crunchy side with pulled pork sandwiches. Sprinkle Sea Salt Caramel Chocolate Drizzled Popcorn over warm brownies just pulled from the oven.

IPS CHIPS With half the fat of fried potato chips, ips (rhymes with “chips”) are incredible protein snacks. They blend non-GMO corn, the highest quality protein from whey and egg white, and other wholesome ingredients, then use a pressure-puff process to get a perfect chip— crunchy, delicious, and satisfying.

Did you know? The idea for ips hatched from Sean, a father looking for healthier snacks for his kids. They loved the crispy edges of the eggs he cooked, which inspired him to turn that protein crunch into a great snack.

STONEWALL KITCHEN AIOLIS Fire up your taste buds with a flavorful combination of sun-ripened chilies and garlic. Stonewall Kitchen took Sriracha and created a uniquely robust aioli that will add a flavorful kick to your sandwiches, burgers, and chicken. If you’re craving sweet and savory, their maple bacon aioli perfectly captures the taste of real bacon and sweet maple syrup. From lunch to dinner, this aioli adds great flavor to sandwiches and grilled meats.

Tip: Additional varieties, including roasted garlic, habañero mango, and lemon herb aioli, are available at select Lunds & Byerlys.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

TRAINA KETCHUPS Looking for a little zing to your ketchup? Traina Foods, a leading seller of premium sun-dried fruits, celebrates the tomato with their hot Sriracha sun-dried tomato ketchup and California sun-dried tomato ketchup. Each bottle contains the equivalent of four pounds of fresh Roma tomatoes.

Tip: Hot Sriracha sun-dried tomato ketchup can be used in place of hot sauce, as a base for marinades, or in a Bloody Mary. Classic sun-dried tomato ketchup is perfect on sausages, meatloaf, tacos, and burgers.

GEVALIA KAFFE ICED COFFEES WITH ALMOND MILK Gevalia Kaffe Iced Coffees are crafted from rich, 100 percent Arabica Gevalia coffee, creamy almond milk, and just enough sweetness. It’s an irresistible almond milk twist on iced coffee that’s anything but ordinary. Each iced coffee is lactose free and a good source of calcium and vitamins A and E. It’s also filled with 6 grams of protein per serving.

Tip: To enjoy Gevalia iced coffee to its fullest, shake well before opening, serve chilled, and remember to refrigerate. Flavors include vanilla, caramel, and mocha.

BREWLA BARS Brewla Bars are all-natural ice pops that combine high-quality teas and botanical ingredients with fresh fruit juices, purées, or hormone-free milk. Flavors are refreshing, crisp, and bold—loved by both adults and kids—with only 50 calories or less per bar. Lick well, live well! Flavors include: craft brewed root beer float, strawberry and hibiscus tea, tropical fruits and white tea, peach ginger and white tea, and cherry pomegranate and red tea.

Did you know? Crafted by a brother-and-sister team from Brooklyn, New York, and winners of the national Samuel Adams Brewing the American Dream contest, Brewla Bars are the latest trend in all-natural frozen treats.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15


Coaltenders Wanted

The patented shape of the Primo Oval XL delivers simultaneous direct and indirect cooking for versatility unrivaled by other ceramic smoker grills.

enter to win this grill

$1,749 value

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text grill to 55955 or visit LUNDSandBYERLYS.com/grill *Visit LUNDSandBYERLYS.com/grill for contest rules and alternate forms of entry.

EDINA

ST. PAUL

MINNEAPOLIS OUTLET MAPLE GROVE WOODBURY APPLE VALLEY ROCHESTER COON RAPIDS

a Minnesota family business


ingredient

The Versatile Superfood The humble, hairy coconut is a nutritional powerhouse in dishes savory or sweet. BY TAMMY GALVIN

COCONUTS BRENT HOFACKER - FOTOLIA.COM

F

ormerly relegated to the role of a decadent treat, coconut is now embraced with an enthusiasm that borders on obsession. And it’s no wonder, given its smooth, creamy texture and the compelling health and nutrition benefits of pure coconut. But it wasn’t always that way. In the margarine, aspartame, and no-fat-diets heyday of the 1970s and ’80s, nutritional experts shunned tropical oils and told us that coconut oil was the most dangerous fat possible because of its high saturated fat content. At the time, even hydrogenated vegetable shortening was considered healthier. Fast-forward several decades, and now we know a great deal more about this superfood with such a flawed past. Indeed, the fat in coconut oil is both unique and different from most other fats and possesses many health-giving properties. In fact, it has been described as “the healthiest oil on earth.” But why? What makes coconut oil so healthy, and how does it differ from all other oils—especially other saturated fats? Without getting too technical, the difference is in the fat molecule itself. All fats and oils are composed of molecules called fatty acids, and there are two methods of classifying fatty acids. The first, more commonly known classification is based on saturation. There are saturated fats, monounsaturated fats, and polyunsaturated fats. Another system of classification is based on molecular size or length of the carbon chain within each fatty acid. Fatty acids consist of long chains of carbon atoms with hydrogen atoms attached. In this classification, there are short-chain fatty acids (SCFA), medium-chain fatty acids (MCFA), and long-chain fatty acids (LCFA). Coconut oil is composed predominately of medium-chain fatty acids (MCFA), also known as medium-chain triglycerides (MCT). The vast majority of fats and oils in our diets, whether they are saturated or unsaturated or come from animals or plants, are composed of long-chain fatty acids (LCFA).

In fact, some 98 percent to 100 percent of all the fatty acids we consume are LCFA, according to the Coconut Research Center. Because our bodies respond to and metabolize each fatty acid differently depending on its size, the size of the fatty acid is extremely important. So the physiological effects of MCFA in coconut oil are distinctly different from those of LCFA more commonly found in our foods. The saturated fatty acids in coconut oil are predominately MCFA. Both the saturated and unsaturated fat found in meat, milk, eggs, and plants (including most all vegetable oils) are composed of LCFA. MCFA do not have a negative effect on cholesterol, and they actually help to protect against heart disease by lowering the risk of both atherosclerosis and heart disease. It is primarily due to the MCFA in coconut oil that makes it so special and so beneficial as there are only a few exceptional dietary sources of MCFA. By far the best sources are from coconut and palm kernel oils. Because of all these health benefits, nutritionists are certain that the humble, hairy coconut is anything but a fly-by-night fad. The meat, juice, milk, and oil of the coconut have nourished people for thousands of years and will continue to do so for thousands more. No wonder the coconut palm is often referred to as the “tree of life.” ■

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Summer Table Dine al fresco with easy-to-love dishes for any day or when entertaining. BY LISA LEMKE

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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It’s summer and you want to hang out and eat well—often outdoors. But how can you choose from all the fantastic things that summer’s pantry has to offer and at the same time make everyone happy? The solution is as simple as it is brilliant: relaxed food that’s cooked from the heart and shared with people you care about. From savory bites to serve at home, bring to a party, or pack for a picnic to a

Noodle Salad with Sesame and Lime

Olive Puffs with Feta

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 18 SLICES

The bright flavors of some dishes can fade when they’re cold, so it pays off to really push the heat in this noodle salad if you’re planning to take it on a picnic and eat it cold. Always remember to taste first before you add more hot sauce!

If you’re a superhero, you can make your own puff pastry. But if you’re an ordinary mortal, I think it’s totally fine to buy frozen puff pastry. All you have to do is pop them into the oven before your guests arrive.

2 10½ 5 1 8 3 10½ 2 2⁄3 1½ ½ 1 4

tablespoons sesame seeds ounces (about 3 medium) carrots ounces (about 1 cup) snap peas 6-inch piece leek ounces broccoli to 4 small garlic cloves ounces dried egg noodles tablespoons vegetable oil cup light soy sauce tablespoons toasted sesame oil cup sweet chile sauce to 1½ tablespoons chile paste or other hot sauce tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice salt

1. Toast the sesame seeds by stirring in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat. 2. Peel and very thinly slice the carrots. Cut the snap peas and leek into thin strips and split the broccoli into small florets. Chop the garlic. Cook the egg noodles according to the directions on the packaging and set aside. 3. Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan over high heat and stir-fry the garlic and vegetables, stirring constantly, for 1–2 minutes. Stir in all the remaining ingredients except the noodles and sesame seeds and fry them in the wok on high heat for 2–3 minutes. 4. Add the egg noodles and toss everything thoroughly. Add the sesame seeds and season optionally with salt and more lime juice. Serve the salad warm or cold.

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thawed sheet(s) of puff pastry, cut into 18 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 inch squares 3½ ounces feta cheese made with goat or sheep’s milk 1 tablespoon olive oil grated zest of 1 lemon (preferably organic) 18 pitted kalamata olives salt and black pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Cut puff pastry sheet(s) into 18 1½'' x 1½'' squares. Place the squares, with a little space between them, on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Make a small depression in the middle of each square using your thumb. Cut a large piece of the feta cheese and break it into small pieces. Brush all the squares with olive oil and place a piece of cheese into each hollow and top with a little lemon zest. Firmly press an olive into the cheese so that it stays in place during baking when the pastry rises. Crumble the rest of the feta over the squares and season with salt and pepper. 3. Bake the puffs in the middle of the oven for 15–20 minutes, or until golden brown. 4. Serve the puffs warm or cold.

OPENING LINEN AND BRASS FLATWARE COURTESY OF THE FOUNDRY HOME GOODS, MINNEAPOLIS

crowdpleasing centerpiece dessert, we hope you enjoy these ideas to share with friends and family.


NOODLE SALAD WITH SESAME AND LIME AND OLIVE PUFFS WITH FETA

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Whole-Grilled Chipotle Chicken MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Grilled whole meats are incredibly rewarding. By setting aside just a little more grill time, you will get astonishingly juicy and tasty results. Here, I tie the chicken legs together and grill the whole bird on an ordinary grill over indirect heat. 1 whole chicken, 2½–3 pounds Spice Paste 3 cloves of garlic 1 tablespoon canola oil 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1½ tablespoons dried oregano 2 tablespoons mild paprika powder 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon light brown sugar 1½ teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 2 teaspoons water chipotle-flavored hot sauce, such as Tabasco 1. For the spice paste, mince the garlic and combine with the rest of the ingredients, except the Tabasco. Flavor the mixture with Tabasco to taste. Rub the spice mixture around the whole chicken, and try to get as much as possible under the skin. Tie the legs together with cooking twine and let the chicken rest in the fridge for at least 3 hours. 2. Prepare a grill with a cover for indirect grilling—that is, a charcoal grill with coals only on the sides of the grill, or light only one side of a gas grill. Place the chicken on the indirect heat side of the glowing coals and close the lid. Grill the bird, turning occasionally and taking off the cover if the chicken gets too brown, for 70–80 minutes, or until it is completely cooked through. 3. Rip the grilled chicken into small pieces and let people make their own tortillas or tacos. Note: If you have a real kettle barbeque, you can give beer-can chicken a try. You simply stick a half-filled beer can inside the cavity of the chicken and set it upright on the grill so that it looks as if the chicken is sitting on the beer can. Keep the grill covered on indirect heat for 70–80 minutes. Open the lid occasionally to make sure that the chicken doesn’t burn.

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Berry Tiramisu MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Lovely tiramisu is a crowd pleaser. It is great for entertaining, because it is easy to prep ahead of time, and actually tastes better after a day or two. It is also incredibly easy to dress it up, as I have done in this recipe, with white chocolate, limoncello, and sweet summer berries. 3½ 5 2⁄3 1 ½ ¼ 4 25

ounces white chocolate large egg yolks cup confectioners’ sugar pound room temperature mascarpone cup water, scant cup concentrated elderflower syrup tablespoons limoncello (Italian lemon liqueur) ladyfinger cookies, approximately

Marinated Berries 2 cups assorted berries, approximately (e.g., blueberries, raspberries, and strawberries) ½ cup concentrated elderflower syrup, scant 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1. Chop the white chocolate and melt it in a bowl over a water bath. While the chocolate is melting, thoroughly whisk the egg yolks and confectioners’ sugar in a bowl. Fold in the mascarpone and the cooled melted chocolate and whisk together into an even and fluffy cream. 2. Cover the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with a thin layer of mascarpone cream. Combine the water, elderflower syrup, and limoncello in a bowl. Dip about one-quarter of the cookies into the mixture and distribute them evenly over the mascarpone cream. Fill the pan with another layer of cream. 3. Dip additional cookies in the syrup mixture and add another layer of cookies. Continue to layer the mascarpone cream and dipped cookies until the pan is filled. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. 4. Twenty-five minutes before serving, slice the strawberries and put them in a bowl with the other berries, elderflower syrup, and lemon juice. Let the berries marinate in the elderflower and lemon syrup for 20 minutes. 5. Gently run a thin, sharp knife around the pan edge, loosen the tiramisu carefully, remove the outer springform ring, and set it on a plate while still on the springform bottom. Drain the berries and then distribute them over the tiramisu just before serving. If there are leftover berries, serve them in a bowl on the side. Editor’s note: Substitutes for elderflower syrup include: elderflower cordial, freshly squeezed orange juice, or lemon syrup (lemon simple syrup). ■

RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION SFROM THE SUMMER TABLE PUBLISHED IN 2015 BY STERLING EPICURE. TEXT © LISA LEMKE.

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NUTRITION

BERRY TIRAMISU

NOODLE SALAD W. SESAME & LIME: PER SERVING: CALORIES 570 (168 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 3g); CHOL 56mg; SODIUM 2166mg; CARB 86g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 16g

OLIVE PUFF W. FETA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 61 (44 from fat); FAT 5g (sat. 3g); CHOL 12mg; SODIUM 132mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

WHOLE-GRILLED CHIPOTLE CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 354 (187 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 5g); CHOL 109mg; SODIUM 1054mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 35g

BERRY TIRAMISU: PER SERVING: CALORIES 399 (226 from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 15g); CHOL 175mg; SODIUM 61mg; CARB 37g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 5g

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Summer ON A STICK Get fired up for delicious kebabs and endless ways to experiment throughout the summer.

BY BRUCE AIDELLS

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RUM AND MOLASSES MARINATED BEEF KEBABS WITH GRILLED CANTALOUPE

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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K

ebabs are just plain fun. They can be made with all types of tender meats: lamb, pork, beef, veal, fish, shrimp,

poultry, and even tofu. They can be dressed in endless marinades, pastes, and rubs. They can be embellished with vegetables from the expected onion and bell pepper to eggplant, summer squash, mushrooms, fennel, cherry tomatoes, and even chunks of bread. Here, I offer four marinades, each paired with a specific protein. But the truth is that each of these marinades will work well with other proteins. I particularly like the Greek yogurt marinade with lamb, the rum and molasses marinade with pork, and the maple and mustard marinade with ham or another smoked meat. Don’t be afraid to experiment and have some fun.

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Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp with Maple and Mustard Glaze, Butternut Squash, and Red Onion MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Fenugreek might seem like a foreign ingredient for this recipe as it typically is found in curries and Middle Eastern cooking. But its highly aromatic flavor increases the more subtle aspects of the maple syrup. If you can’t find good fenugreek, leave it out. Bacon and shrimp are a great combination, but don’t scrimp on the bacon. Buy the best you can, such as applewood smoked bacon. Glaze Kebabs 4 tablespoons butter 15 to 20 12-inch bamboo skewers, 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard soaked in water 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1½ pounds large shrimp, peeled with tails intact 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1⁄2 pound applewood smoked bacon, 1⁄4 cup maple syrup halved crosswise 1⁄4 teaspoon ground fenugreek (optional) 1 pound butternut squash, peeled and 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cut in 1-inch cubes Tabasco to taste 1 medium red onion, cut in 1-inch chunks 1. For the glaze: In a small saucepan, melt butter over low heat. Whisk in mustard until fully blended and whisk in remaining ingredients. Keep warm. 2. For the kebabs: Wrap bacon around shrimp and thread lengthwise onto skewer. Each skewer should hold 3 to 4 shrimp. Alternate squash and onion on separate skewers. 3. Build a medium-hot charcoal or gas fire. Brush shrimp skewers generously with glaze and grill 2 to 3 minutes per side, until firm and light pink. Remove from skewers to a warm platter and brush with glaze. 4. Brush vegetable skewers with glaze and cook 10 to 12 minutes, turning every 2 to 3 minutes, until squash just begins to soften. Remove from skewers to a warm platter and brush with glaze. Top with shrimp and serve.

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Spicy Korean-Style Pork Kebabs MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Koreans are fond of big, bold flavors. Their national condiment, kimchi, can be quite spicy and is loaded with garlic. For spicy marinades and stews, Koreans employ a thick red chili paste called gochujang, which is available at Asian markets. I have worked out a reasonable substitute using easy-to-find white miso, Sriracha, and paprika. These kebabs are best made with fattier cuts of pork, like Boston butt or boneless country spareribs. Marinade 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1⁄2 cup finely chopped onion 2 tablespoons minced ginger 2 tablespoons minced garlic 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1⁄4 cup soy sauce 3 tablespoons white miso 1 tablespoon Sriracha 2 tablespoons pure California chili powder or Hungarian paprika 1⁄4 cup water 2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1⁄2 cup green onion, white and green parts finely chopped 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil Kebabs 2 pounds pork butt or boneless country spareribs, cut in 1½-inch cubes 1 medium red onion, cut into 1-inch chunks 8 ounces extra firm tofu, cut in 1-inch cubes 1 medium green bell pepper, cut in 1-inch squares 1 medium red bell pepper, cut in 1-inch squares

1. For the marinade: Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir in onion and cook 5 minutes, until soft and translucent. Stir in ginger and garlic, and cook 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in remaining ingredients. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate until cool. Reserve and refrigerate 1⁄2 cup. 2. For the kebabs: Place pork in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Pour over remaining marinade and shake until coated. Place bag in a bowl or pan and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours, occasionally turning and shaking. 3. Build a medium-hot charcoal or gas fire. Remove meat from marinade and discard marinade. Thread meat onto skewers, alternating with onion. On separate skewers, sandwich tofu between alternating green and red bell pepper. Brush with reserved marinade. 4. Oil grill and cook over direct heat, turning every 2 to 3 minutes and brushing with marinade. Cook tofu and vegetables 7 minutes, until peppers begin to color and soften. Cook meat 10 minutes, until firm to the touch and faintly pink inside. Gently remove food from skewers to a warm platter. Drizzle over any remaining marinade before serving.

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KEBAB TIPS Invest in flat, metal skewers instead of using disposable, round, wooden skewers. The flat blade prevents food from slipping when the skewers are turned. One exception: For the bacon-wrapped shrimp kebabs, I prefer the round, bamboo skewers as they help secure the bacon. Let your guests partake in the fun! Invite them to help assemble the skewers. Ensure all ingredients on one skewer require the same cook time. This is why, for example, quick-cooking cantaloupe is not on the same skewer as longer-cooking beef. Remove the cooked food from the skewers before serving so guests can take exactly how much they want. It is awkward and cumbersome to serve each guest their own skewer.

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Greek Yogurt Marinated Chicken Kebabs MAKES 4 SERVINGS

In Greece, yogurt is very popular and is used in dips, condiments, and salads and as a classic dessert drizzled with honey. I find it also makes a great base for a marinade that tenderizes with its acidity and blends well with herbs and spices. Serve these kebabs with the cucumber and yogurt salad and rice or oven-roasted potatoes. Marinade 1 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1⁄4 cup fresh oregano, chopped 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 tablespoons Hungarian paprika 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Kebabs 1½ pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut in 1½-inch chunks 1 large sweet onion, cut in 1-inch chunks 1 medium red bell pepper, cut in 1-inch squares 1 medium green bell pepper, cut in 1-inch squares

1. For the marinade: In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients until blended. Reserve and refrigerate 1⁄2 cup. 2. For the kebabs: Drop chicken into a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Pour over remaining marinade and shake until coated. Place bag in a bowl or pan and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours, occasionally turning and shaking. 3. Build a medium-hot charcoal or gas fire. Remove chicken from marinade and discard marinade. Thread chicken onto skewers, alternating with onion and bell pepper. Brush with reserved marinade. 4. Oil grill and cook over direct heat, about 12-15 minutes, turning every 2 to 3 minutes, until chicken begins to color and is firm to the touch and vegetables are browned on edges. Remove and cut into a piece of chicken to ensure it is cooked through. Remove food from skewers and mound on a platter.

Cucumber and Yogurt Salad 1 1 1 2 1 1⁄2 1⁄2

English cucumber, unpeeled, halved, and thinly sliced cup whole-milk Greek yogurt tablespoon fresh mint, chopped tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped tablespoon fresh lemon juice teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. In a serving bowl, toss together ingredients and refrigerate. Serve with kebabs.


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Rum and Molasses Marinated Beef Kebabs with Grilled Cantaloupe MAKES 4 SERVINGS

These kebabs have a decidedly tropical flair, so why not embrace the theme by pairing with rum cocktails or punch garnished with pineapple? Serve the skewers with the classic side dish of black-eyed peas or black beans and rice. Baked sweet potatoes round out the meal with coconut pudding or coconut cream pie to follow. Marinade 1 teaspoon grated ginger 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1⁄4 teaspoon nutmeg 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin 1⁄2 cup dark rum 1⁄4 cup fresh lime juice 1⁄3 cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon molasses 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon Tabasco, or more to taste 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons peanut oil Kebabs 2 pounds sirloin steak, cut in 1½-inch cubes 1 large yellow onion, cut into 1½-inch chunks 1½ pounds firm cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1½-inch cubes 1 lime, cut into 6 wedges 1. For the marinade: In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients until blended. 2. For the kebabs: Place beef in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag. Pour over remaining marinade and shake until coated. Place bag in a bowl or pan and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours, occasionally turning and shaking. 3. Remove beef from marinade. Pour marinade into a saucepan, bring to a boil, boil for 2 minutes, and set aside. Thread meat on skewers, alternating with onion. Thread cantaloupe onto separate skewers. 4. Build a medium-hot charcoal or gas fire. Brush cantaloupe skewers with marinade. Lay all skewers over fire, turning every 2 to 3 minutes to prevent charring. Lightly cook cantaloupe 2 to 3 minutes and remove from skewers to a warm platter. Squeeze lime juice over cantaloupe. Cook beef 6 to 8 minutes until medium-rare. Remove beef from skewers and place over cantaloupe. Brush with reserved marinade and serve. ■

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NUTRITION

SHRIMP KEBABS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 387 (161 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 9g); CHOL 241mg; SODIUM 774mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 32g

PORK KEBABS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 481 (250 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 8g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 818mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 42g

CHICKEN KEBABS W. CUCUMBER SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 359 (139 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 7g); CHOL 188mg; SODIUM 777mg; CARB 14g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 40g

BEEF KEBABS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 504 (138 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 4g); CHOL 147mg; SODIUM 1284mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 62g

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PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS


The Incredible Avocado

This versatile fruit, with its creamy texture and bounty of health benefits, is ripe for the picking.

BY ROBIN ASBELL

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S

ome of us are old enough to remember when avocados

were considered exotic, reserved almost exclusively for guacamole. These days, they bestow their creamy goodness upon sandwiches, salads, and more. Why the surge in interest in the luscious, tropical fruit? You can thank health seekers, who have helped move the green orb from the vegetarian realm to the mainstream. The spreadable flesh of the avocado is loaded with anti-inflammatory phytosterols, a wide array of carotenoids, and oleic acid, which aids in nutrient absorption. That means that schmearing the green goodness on your toast is good for your heart, your joints, even your brain. In the regions where avocados grow, locals long have done much more with them than just make condiments. Sweet avocado milkshakes in Brazil, chilled avocado soups in Mexico, and countless variations on avocado salads and salsas across South America have put the fruit to good use. The sweetness of the avocado makes it a perfect foil for seafood with a bracing squeeze of lemon or lime. The rich texture makes it a perfect stand-in for mayonnaise and cheese in sandwiches and wraps. Avocados are really the perfect marriage of taste, texture, and healthfulness. Enjoy!

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Green Goddess Salad with Avocado MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This salad is a study in green, from the crisp romaine leaves to the creamy avocado dressing sprinkled with crunchy pistachios. For a colorful counterpoint, serve alongside steamed carrots or a plateful of pasta with red sauce. 1 2 2 2 1⁄2 1⁄2 2 1 2 1⁄2

cup fresh parsley, stemmed cloves garlic, peeled medium avocados tablespoons champagne vinegar teaspoon salt cup plain yogurt small romaine hearts, chopped medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and sliced large scallions, slivered cup unsalted roasted pistachios, coarsely chopped

1. Using a food processor, pulse parsley and garlic to finely chop. Halve, pit, and scoop 1 avocado into jar and purée, scraping down sides and repeating as necessary. Add vinegar, salt, and yogurt, and process until smooth. 2. Place romaine in a large bowl, drizzle over half of dressing, and toss to coat. Divide evenly among 4 plates. Cover with cucumber and drizzle over remaining dressing. 3. Halve and pit remaining avocado and use a paring knife to slice flesh in shell. Using a spoon, carefully scoop out intact slices and divide evenly among salads. Sprinkle with scallions and pistachios and drizzle with remaining dressing. Serve immediately.


GREEN GODDESS SALAD WITH AVOCADO


LINGUINE IN CREAMY BASIL-AVOCADO SAUCE WITH SEARED SCALLOPS


TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Linguine in Creamy Basil-Avocado Sauce with Seared Scallops MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The creamy richness of avocados makes for a perfect pasta sauce. Spiked with lemon, the smooth sauce is a perfect complement to the sweet, meaty, seared scallops. Nobody needs to know how healthful this decadent dish really is. 1 pound sea scallops 2 teaspoons unbleached flour pinch salt 2 ounces fresh basil 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2 large avocados 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1⁄2 cup sour cream 2 teaspoons lemon zest 3⁄4 teaspoon salt, divided 1 pound linguine 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved 4 sprigs basil leaves, for garnish 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for pasta. 2. Meanwhile, pat dry scallops and place in a large bowl. Add flour and 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, and toss to coat. Let come to room temperature. 3. Using a food processor, mince basil and garlic. Add avocados and purée, scraping down sides and repeating as necessary. Add lemon juice and sour cream, and purée to mix. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in lemon zest and ½ teaspoon salt. 4. Cook pasta according to directions, drain, and return to pot. Stir in sauce and keep warm. 5. Heat a cast iron pan or large skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Drizzle in oil to coat and drop in scallops. Sear 2 minutes per side, depending on size. 6. Divide pasta evenly among 4 plates, top with tomatoes and scallops, and garnish with basil leaves before serving.

SELECTING When selecting avocados, look for fruit with the stem, or “button,” attached because loss of the stem allows the flesh to spoil. Check for a slight give by gently squeezing with your whole palm to avoid damaging the fruit. PLAN AHEAD If you want avocados for the weekend, buy them the week before and allow to ripen at room temperature. When they start to soften, refrigerate until ready to use. PEELING To easily peel an avocado, cut it in half, twist out the pit, then cut in long quarters. Use a paring knife to strip the skin off each slice. NUTRITION Many of the avocado’s healthy compounds are right next to the skin, so scoop all the way to the shell. PIT There is a persistent myth that putting the pit in a bowl of guacamole will keep it from browning—it just isn’t true. Citrus helps, as does a lack of exposure to air. Spread the mashed avocado smoothly, drizzle with lemon or lime, and press plastic wrap onto the entire surface. Chill up to 24 hours.

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Fried Avocado Tacos with Shredded Vegetables and Crema MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The thought of frying an avocado might not have occurred to you, but once you try it, you will want to eat them all the time. The warm avocado seems to melt in your mouth when you bite into it. Wrapped in a soft corn tortilla with tangy veggies, it is a real contender for best taco. 1 1 1⁄4 1 2 1⁄2 1 1 3 8 1⁄2 1⁄4 1⁄2 1

cup shredded cabbage cup shredded carrot cup thinly sliced red onion small jalapeño, seeded and chopped tablespoons fresh lime juice teaspoon salt large egg cup panko bread crumbs large firm-ripe avocados corn tortillas cup crema (Mexican-style sour cream) cup whole cilantro leaves cup canola oil, approximately lime, sliced

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Line a large plate with a double layer of paper towels for draining avocados. 2. In a medium bowl, toss cabbage, carrot, onion, jalapeño, lime juice, and salt. Reserve. In another medium bowl, whisk egg. Place panko in another bowl. 3. Add ½ inch oil to a large skillet over medium heat. Working quickly, halve and pit avocados. Use a paring knife to slice each half in thirds inside shell and use a spoon to carefully scoop out intact slices. 4. Drop each slice into egg and gently toss to coat. Coat in panko. Carefully place in hot oil. When all avocado is in pan and oil has returned to a sizzle, reduce heat to medium-low. 5. Fry avocado 4-5 minutes, flipping halfway through, until golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper-towel-lined plate. Sprinkle with salt, if desired. 6. Meanwhile, wrap tortillas in foil and warm in oven 10 minutes just before assembly. 7. On a serving platter or individual plates, place two tortillas per person with two slices avocado in each. Divide vegetables among tacos. Garnish each with 1 tablespoon crema and a few leaves cilantro. Serve immediately with lime slices.

FRIED AVOCADO TACOS WITH SHREDDED VEGETABLES AND CREMA

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TROPICAL AVOCADO BROWNIES

Tropical Avocado Brownies MAKES 16 SERVINGS

Bear in mind that avocados are fruit when you use them in this rich, sweet dessert. Chances are your guests will only notice the creamy chocolate and never realize there is a super food hiding in these sweets. Add some spice and top with coconut for a tropical vibe or just stick with pure chocolate. Brownies 3⁄4 cup unbleached flour 1⁄2 cup cocoa 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1⁄4 teaspoon baking soda 1⁄2 teaspoon cloves (optional) 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional) 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate 1 cup mashed avocado 1 cup brown sugar 3 large eggs Frosting 1⁄2 cup mashed avocado 1½ cups powdered sugar 3⁄4 cup cocoa 1 teaspoon vanilla 5 tablespoons milk 1⁄2 cup sweetened coconut flakes (optional) 1. For the brownies: Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly oil an 8-inch square pan. 2. In a large bowl, combine flour, cocoa, salt, and baking soda. Stir in cloves and cinnamon (if using). 3. In a double boiler or bowl in microwave, melt together butter and chocolate. Stir until smooth. 4. Using a food processor, purée avocado until smooth. Add brown sugar and process. Add eggs and chocolate mixture and process until smooth. Scrape wet ingredients into dry and stir to combine. Spread in pan. 5. Bake 20 to 22 minutes, until top looks dry and a toothpick inserted in middle comes out with big, wet crumbs. Don’t overbake. Cool in pan on a cooling rack. If you prefer a moist brownie, remove from oven while a little wet in middle as brownies will set while cooling. 6. For the frosting: Using a food processor, purée avocado. Add powdered sugar and cocoa, and process until smooth. Scrape down sides and pulse to mix well. Add vanilla and milk, and process until thick. Using a spatula, spread frosting on cooled brownies and sprinkle over coconut (if using). 7. Slice into 16 servings. Brownies will keep in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 4 days. ■

44 real food summer 2015


NUTRITION

GREEN GODDESS SALAD W. AVOCADO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 248 (153 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 3g); CHOL 2mg; SODIUM 339mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 8g

LINGUINE IN CREAMY BASIL-AVOCADO SAUCE W. SEARED SCALLOPS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 807 (208 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 6g); CHOL 38mg; SODIUM 1344mg; CARB 115g; FIBER 12g; PROTEIN 34g

FRIED AVOCADO TACOS W. SHREDDED VEGETABLES AND CREMA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 490 (284 from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 7g); CHOL 46mg; SODIUM 396mg; CARB 47g; FIBER 12g; PROTEIN 8g

TROPICAL AVOCADO BROWNIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 215 (91 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 5g); CHOL 47mg; SODIUM 114mg; CARB 31g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 4g


Fish On… The Grill This summer, travel only to your backyard for the freshest seafood dishes hot off the grill

INTRO BY TAMMY GALVIN EXCERPT FROM THE ESSENTIAL NEW YORK TIMES GRILLING COOKBOOK, EDITED BY PETER KAMINSKY

46 real food summer 2015


F

or many of us, the mere mention of “summer” instantly awakens our senses. Our mind’s eye is filled with

images of kids running through sprinklers. Our taste buds salivate for a cool refreshing lemonade. Our noses distinctly recall that delightful blend of just-cut-grass intertwined with the unmistakable, mouthwatering scent from a nearby grill. Increasingly, however, it isn’t just burgers, dogs, steaks, or barbecue chicken finding their way atop the gas- or charcoalheated grates these days. No, it seems outdoor chefs have finally learned to deal with the seemingly universal fear many people have of grilling fish. Fish, it seems, has had a bad rap for quite some time. Long considered one of the most intimidating main courses to prepare indoors or out, fish has come into its own in a way— fueled in part by a trend toward cleaner, healthier eating habits, and also fueled by a wider variety of both fresh and frozen fish in the local grocers. Another reason for the increasing popularity of fish is that mainstream resources for recipes and how-to tips—websites, foodie blogs, and books—are now almost always including excellent sections devoted to marinating, handling, and serving the often delicate dish. The Essential New York Times Grilling Cookbook, for example, is a compilation of outdoor cooking recipes and stories that have graced The Times’ pages since 1852—the first article The Times published about barbecue. Featuring an eclectic collection of invaluable grilling tips, this volume includes recipes from prominent chefs and grilling aficionados alike. Some 28 of its main recipes feature fish and shellfish, but it doesn’t stop there. Fish and shellfish also receive nods in the Starters section with clam and shrimp, in the Burgers section with the salmon burger, and throughout the volume of works from award-winning writers over the years. Edited by Peter Kaminsky, the book will undoubtedly ease any fear of grilling fish or seafood and might even have you looking forward to it. Here’s a sampling to whet your appetite.

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Halibut with Indian Rub and Corn Salsa

Greek-Style Fish with Marinated Tomatoes

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

By Mark Bittman, first appeared in “The Minimalist: Simplify Greek Fish for Summer,” The New York Times, July 2, 2010

4

2 4 1 ½ 1 1

teaspoons ground cumin teaspoons turmeric teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground fennel seeds salt and freshly ground black pepper halibut steaks (Pacific salmon, wild striped bass, hake steaks or fillets of these fish can be substituted), 1 inch thick (2 to 2½ pounds total) lemons tablespoons ghee (sold in Indian stores and specialty food shops) or clarified butter; vegetable oil can be substituted tablespoon minced fresh ginger cup finely chopped onion cup cooked fresh corn kernels (about 1 ear of corn) oil for grill tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. Combine cumin, turmeric, coriander, fennel, ½ teaspoon black pepper and ½ teaspoon salt or to taste. Rub fish steaks on both sides with juice of ½ lemon, then rub with all but 2 teaspoons of spice mixture. Refrigerate 3 hours. 2. While fish marinates, heat 2 tablespoons of ghee in a skillet, add ginger and onion and sauté until onion just starts to brown. Stir in remaining spice mixture and sauté, stirring, until spices smell toasty, then add corn and juice of ½ lemon. Cook briefly and set aside. 3. Remove fish from refrigerator and brush on both sides with remaining 2 tablespoons ghee or butter. Heat grill and oil grates. When hot, place fish on grill over medium-hot coals or gas fire and cook about 5 minutes. Use a spatula to turn fish and grill 3 to 4 minutes, until a little liquid just begins to pool on surface of fish and a paring knife inserted just at the bone can move flesh away from it easily. Salmon should be cooked about 3 minutes on each side. Remove fish to a warm platter or individual plates. 4. Reheat corn mixture, adding cilantro and a couple tablespoons water to moisten it. Spoon corn on fish, garnish with wedges cut from remaining lemon and serve.

HALIBUT WITH INDIAN RUB AND CORN SALSA

48 real food summer 2015

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

You’ve probably eaten fish baked in tomato sauce, a dish on the menu of most Greek restaurants in the United States. There are dozens of versions—with bread crumbs, or red bell peppers, or loads of aromatic vegetables—but at this time of year, all seem needlessly complicated. In summer I want a dish that tampers with the tomato-fish formula as little as possible. So instead of cooking the tomatoes, I marinate them, and instead of braising the fish, I grill it. Neither fish nor tomatoes need much help. Bass, rockfish and even trout are good options here—you want a medium-size fish (or two), preferably local and obviously fresh. If you have good fishmongers, ask them to clean, butterfly and fillet it. If not, just clean and gut it. 2 cups cherry tomatoes, preferably Sun Gold, halved 4 tablespoons olive oil, or more as needed 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon minced fresh hot chili, like jalapeño, or more to taste 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried 4 cloves garlic, sliced, or more to taste salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large whole fish or 2 smaller ones (2 to 3 pounds total), like striped bass, rockfish or trout; preferably butterflied and boned, or simply gutted 1 lemon, sliced 4 to 6 sprigs fresh thyme 1. Prepare grill; heat should be medium-high and rack about 4 inches from fire. 2. Combine tomatoes, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, vinegar, chili, oregano, a few slices of garlic and a sprinkle of salt and pepper in a bowl; let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, using a sharp knife, make three or four diagonal, parallel slashes on each side of fish, just about down to the bone. Sprinkle inside of fish with salt and pepper, then stuff with remaining garlic, a layer of lemon slices and thyme sprigs. Rub outside of fish with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 4. Grill until firm enough to turn, 5 to 8 minutes. Turn and cook second side for 5 to 8 minutes. Fish is done when exterior is crisp and a knife passes easily through the flesh. 5. Taste tomato mixture and adjust seasoning, adding more oil if needed. Serve fish topped with tomatoes and their liquid.

HALIBUT ANDREW SCRIVANI GREEK-STYLE FISH EVAN SUNG LOBSTER PREVIOUS SPREAD EHAURYLIK - FOTOLIA.COM

2 1½ 1 ½


GREEK-STYLE FISH WITH MARINATED TOMATOES


Grilled Lobster By Mark Bittman, first appeared in “The Minimalist: Grilled Lobster with a Head Start,” The New York Times, August 6, 2010

Grilled Clams with Lemon-Cayenne Butter By Melissa Clark, first appeared in The New York Times, August 26, 2009 MAKES 2 SERVINGS

1 large clove garlic, minced large pinch kosher salt, more to taste 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, melted 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste pinch cayenne pepper 2 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed chopped fresh chives for serving

CLAMS JACQUES PALUT - FOTOLIA.COM

1. Using a mortar and pestle, or on a cutting board using flat part of a knife, mash together garlic and salt until a paste forms. Scrape paste into a small bowl and stir in butter, lemon juice and cayenne. Taste and make sure salt and lemon are balanced. 2. Preheat grill. Place clams directly on grill grate or on a large baking pan in a single layer. Cover grill and let clams cook for 2 minutes. Open grill and check clams, using tongs to remove any that have opened, and transfer them to a large bowl. Be careful not to spill the clams’ juices when transferring them. Close grill lid and check every 30 seconds, removing clams as they open. 3. Pour lemon-cayenne butter over clam bowl and toss lightly. Serve hot, garnished with chives.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Throughout the world, lobster is commonly considered the height of elegance: it’s often the priciest thing on the menu in restaurants, served on fancy platters with lots of fanfare. But in many parts of the Northeast, lobster is a casual favorite, no fancier than steamed mussels or fried clams. Steamed or boiled or mixed with mayonnaise for lobster rolls, there is nothing elegant about it. Yet grilled lobster falls somewhere in the middle of this spectrum, and that’s only because the grilling itself presents challenges. Grilling lobster is not like grilling a steak, because the animal is alive in your kitchen. And this freaks many people out. If it doesn’t bother you, put the critter on a table and cut it in half lengthwise. Then start grilling. But there is an easier way: boil the lobster for two minutes, just until it turns red (for four or five minutes if it weighs more than a pound and a half). The point here is to kill the lobster. Afterward, plunge it in ice water, then keep it cool until you’re ready to cook. If you really don’t want to put a live creature into a pot, many fishmongers or supermarkets will do this for you. When the lobster has gone through the first stage of cooking, cut it in half: Start at the head, right between the eyes, and make one long cut until you can split the lobster in half and separate it. There’s no need to remove any organs; just put the lobster, cut side up to start, on a hot grill for a few minutes. Turn it and continue cooking until the meat is opaque and firm to the touch: that’s it. salt 4 live lobsters (about 1½ pounds each) ground black pepper lemon wedges or melted butter, or both 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and salt it. Using tongs, put lobsters in pot, one by one. Cover pot. Cook just until bright red, about 2 minutes each (longer if lobsters weigh more). Remove lobsters from pot with tongs; plunge into a bowl, sink or bucket of ice water; then continue cooking, or refrigerate for up to a day. 2. Prepare grill; heat should be medium-high and rack about 4 inches from fire. Cut lobsters in half along back, then grill for 3 to 5 minutes on each side, starting with cut side up, sprinkling with salt and pepper before turning. Lobster is done when meat is firm and opaque. Serve with lemon wedges or melted butter, or both. ■

NUTRITION

HALIBUT PHOTO, GREEK-STYLE FISH PHOTO, AND RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE ESSENTIAL NEW YORK TIMES GRILLING COOKBOOK © 2014 BY THE NEW YORK TIMES, STERLING EPICURE, AN IMPRINT OF STERLING PUBLISHING CO., INC.

HALIBUT W. INDIAN RUB & CORN SALSA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 363 (136 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 8g); CHOL 137mg; SODIUM 251mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 42g

GREEK-STYLE FISH W. MARINATED TOMATOES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 354 (158 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 3g); CHOL 145mg; SODIUM 163mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 41g

GRILLED CLAMS W. LEMON-CAYENNE BUTTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 274 (118 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 8g); CHOL 91mg; SODIUM 254mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 29g

GRILLED LOBSTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 252 (124 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 8g); CHOL 261mg; SODIUM 1281mg; CARB 0g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 30g

summer 2015 real food 51


Curtis Stone at home with son, Hudson.


Curtis Stone On making time for the good things in life

BY TARA Q. THOMAS To hear Curtis Stone talk, you’d think he had all the time in the world. The truth is, he’s jetting across Manhattan for a spot on the Rachael Ray show when I catch him on the phone, before he flies back to California to man the line at his restaurant, Maude, which was named “Best New Restaurant Los Angeles 2014” by LA Weekly. He’ll also pack in an episode for Food Network’s All-Star Academy, where he’s one of the five celebrity chefs mentoring the home cook contestants—his latest TV spot after three seasons of hosting Top Chef Masters. But Stone doesn’t betray any hint of stress as he chats, his voice exuding an Aussie-inflected sense of relaxation. He’s quite used to crazy; when he was 20, he found his way from Melbourne to London, where he was determined to work with Marco Pierre White, a young chef as famous for his violent temper as for his exceptional cooking. Flying sauté pans were just the beginning in his kitchens—in one well-publicized episode, White split open the back of a cook’s jacket with a knife in response to a complaint about the heat. Stone took it all in stride, working his way through three of White’s kitchens to become head chef at White’s acclaimed Quo Vadis. That’s where a BBC television producer discovered Stone, interviewing him about Aussie hangover cures. That segment opened a new chapter for him, as an Australian producer tapped him to star in Surfing the Menu, a show that featured Stone traveling around Australia to explore the continent’s diverse foods. Since then, he has been a soughtafter television presence, starring in Take Home Chef Chef, The Apprentice, America’s Next Great Restaurant Restaurant, and others, and making regular appearances on shows including Oprah and Rachael Ray. Now he has embarked on another chapter of his life—still one filled with television appearances and talk shows, but more grounded in his adopted home of Los Angeles. Not only does he have a restaurant now—an intimate 25-seater he named for his grandmother Maude—but he also has two little boys, Hudson, age three, and Emerson, born last September. They were the inspiration for his latest cookbook, Good Food, Good Life. “It’s my favorite by far,” he enthuses. “To have a book that’s filled with your family, all these special recipes, all these memories—it’s incredible.”

For a guy who has so many ways of communicating his love of food—from TV and blog to a long-standing platform as the culinary face of Coles, an Australian supermarket—cookbooks hold an uncannily strong draw for him. “I have a crazy library of cookbooks,” he admits. “Whenever I have five minutes, I’ll pull some out, sit on the sofa, and look through them.” For Stone, cookbooks are not only a way to put his brand of cooking out there, but they also function as touchstones for time and place. “Looking back on them, you can remember where you were, and what you were doing,” he says. “I look through mine and say, ‘yep, that’s when I was single…’ ” He’s referring to Relaxed Cooking Cooking, his third book. “That was the attitude of a bachelor,” he says wryly. “You think you have a busy life, and then you have kids, and it turns everything upside down.” What’s for Dinner was essentially him dealing with that upsidedown life, trying to make it easier. Good Food, Good Life is where he’s at now, when everything is feeling a little smoother— and yet, watching his babies grow up, time feels like it’s speeding by. “This one is a more holistic approach, celebrating the process,” he says. “I wanted to show that cooking is not a chore; it takes time, but it’s something we should make room for in our schedules, and find time to enjoy it.” In Good Food, Good Life, Stone makes it clear that taking time does not necessarily mean devoting more minutes to cooking. Sometimes it just means being more present. “When Hudson gets me up in the morning, the first thing he says is, ‘Daddy, can we go into the garden?’ ” Normally, he explains, it’s too early to go out—the sun is barely up, and there’s still dew on the leaves and a chill in the air. So they make juice together, daddy making up silly stories about a bunny in the juicer that helps the process along, and Hudson giving input

summer 2015 real food 53


“I wanted to show that cooking is not a chore; it takes time, but it’s something we should make room for in our schedules, and find time to enjoy it.” —Curtis Stone

on what should go into it on that particular morning. It takes slightly longer than grabbing a yogurt on the way to work, but it’s also much more fun for the both of them. In general, he says, his kids have had an enormous effect on his relationship to cooking. “It’s drastically improved my relationship to cooking,” he says. The garden is a major feature of his life now, as Hudson gets a charge out of nurturing it and harvesting the results, Stone says. “Having him in the kitchen also makes me make better choices,” he adds. “It’s not just about me feeding myself now. I have to consider what I’m putting into their bodies, and how. You know, when you’re on your own, sometimes you’ll just eat out of the fridge—you don’t even get a plate. I don’t want to do that now. I think it’s important, the participation, the setting the table, coming around the table to eat, doing the dishes— all of it. Family values start here.”

Curtis Stone’s son, Hudson, enjoys helping food grow in their garden.

54 real food summer 2015

The challenge, of course, is finding time to get a dinner on the table for the entire family to eat. Stone, on the other hand, finds it galvanizing. “This is where it gets so fun!” he exclaims. “You get home at 6 p.m., everyone’s hungry, and you’ve got to get dinner on the table, baths done, stories read, all by 7:15,” he says, making it clear he knows well the pressures of life with young kids. But instead of popping a frozen pizza in the microwave, he’ll do something like crank up the grill and toss on a few tuna steaks. Ten minutes later, the fish is on the table, with a creamy rémoulade sauce that takes all of a couple minutes to whisk together. He’s a big one on cooking ahead as well, grabbing a few free moments to put together something that will come in handy when time is short. A lamb ragù only gets better with a couple days in the fridge, and makes a dish that’s both kid-friendly and impressive enough to serve to unexpected guests. A riff on falafel uses almonds to provide the crunch normally gained from partially-soaked chickpeas, allowing the shortcut of using canned—and can be made ahead, cooked quickly when you need it. When he has a little more leeway, he’ll take it—but within limits. “There’ll be this recipe I think, now that’d be delish, but that’s a fourhour cook time,” he says. “You could do it in a slow cooker, and then it’s at least not time you have to tend to it, but it’s still not something you can pull off quickly. That’s where the pressure cooker comes in.” It turns out that, despite the fact Stone has a line of kitchen products to his name, the pressure cooker is about the only special piece of equipment he regularly turns to in his home kitchen (unless you count paint scrapers, which he subs in for spatulas sometimes). As he points out, when you’ve worked in a professional kitchen, you see all the crazy shortcuts and methods chefs use, like using pieces of PVC tubing in place of cutters or molds. The pressure cooker, however, has more than timesaving appeal, he says. “The thing about a pressure cooker is that it doesn’t let any flavor out. Even if you overcook something, it’s okay—if the flavor is cooked out of a piece of meat, it’s caught in the braising juices.” That’s how he gets a hearty bowl of navy bean soup on the table on a Wednesday night, or the intense flavor and tender texture of his posole, a Mexican stew. About the posole and the several other Mexican dishes that pop up in Good Food, Good Life: “Living here in L.A., and just a stone’s throw from Mexico, I’ve just fallen in love with Mexican cuisine,” he says. While Stone grew up in one of the most gastronomically


exciting cities in Australia, where the Asian and Italian influences are so strong the cuisine spawned its own adjective— “Mediterrasian”—and took in London’s own variety of cuisines, he’s fairly blown away by the diversity in the United States. “I came here to do Take Home Chef Chef,” he recalls, “and it was the most amazing introduction to a country. One hundred and forty episodes, looking in people’s fridges, meeting their kids. American cuisine is categorized from the outside as burgers, hot dogs, but there is so much more to it. There is such a variety of cultures and cuisines, all under one flag.” He describes his time here as a constant exploration: “I learn something new every day,” he says. When it comes down to his idea of a perfect day off, however, his Aussie roots show. “A day at the beach,” he says,“It’s an Australian thing—after all, we pretty much all live by the beach,” he explains. “A lazy start to the day, breakfast at home, putting together a bag of goodies to take with us,” he says, dreamily, mentioning a favorite beach his family often heads to in Malibu. “There’s a little restaurant there with giant portions, lots of fun for the kids.” After lunch out and a bunch more time playing in the surf, “I’d finish up with a couple of beers, and a family dinner,” he says. “Just take it easy.” It doesn’t get much easier than his Lemongrass Chicken Wings, which can marinate while he’s playing in the waves, and take only 10 minutes to grill when hunger strikes. Beach or no beach, you might want to try it, too. The lime-and-curry seasoning radiates a sunny warmth even on a cool, rainy evening, and there’s no need for silverware—just plenty of napkins and cold drinks. ■

Lemongrass Chicken Wings MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The longer it marinates, the more flavor the chicken takes on. Fire up the grill or broiler and cook as many as you need to satisfy that snack craving—double or triple the recipe for larger groups. Or as part of a meal, use chicken drumsticks, thighs, or breasts instead of wings and adjust the cooking time accordingly. 12 whole chicken wings 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon Green Curry Paste (recipe below) 1 tablespoon butter, at room temperature chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish 1 lime, cut into wedges 1. Cut the chicken wings through the center joint to separate the drummettes. Transfer to a large bowl. 2. Rub the chicken with 1 cup of the curry paste to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. 3. Prepare a grill for medium heat. Oil the grill grate. 4. Grill the chicken wings for about 10 minutes, turning as needed, or until slightly charred and cooked through. In a bowl, toss the chicken with the remaining 1 tablespoon curry paste and butter to coat. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with cilantro, and serve immediately with lime wedges.

Green Curry Paste MAKES 2 CUPS

Use this Thai paste as a marinade, in stir-fries or curries, and as a soup base. It will keep for up to 5 days, stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. 2 ⅔ ⅓ 2

teaspoons coriander seeds cup packed fresh cilantro leaves cup packed fresh basil leaves large shallots, peeled and quartered 8 garlic cloves 2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed to 8 inches and thinly sliced

PHOTOS AND RECIPES EXCERPTED FROM GOOD FOOD, GOOD LIFE BY CURTIS STONE COPYRIGHT © 2015 BY CURTIS STONE. IMAGES © RAY KACHATORIAN. EXCERPTED BY PERMISSION OF BALLANTINE BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF RANDOM HOUSE, A DIVISION OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS EXCERPT MAY BE REPRODUCED OR REPRINTED WITHOUT PERMISSION IN WRITING FROM THE PUBLISHER.

1 4-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped 4 Thai chiles or small serrano chiles, coarsely chopped 2 kaffir lime leaves, coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons fish sauce ¼ cup canola oil

1. Heat a small heavy sauté pan over medium heat. Add the coriander seeds and stir for about 3 minutes, or until toasted. Transfer the coriander seeds to a plate to cool. 2. In a small food processor, combine the coriander seeds, cilantro, basil, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, chiles, and lime leaves and process, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until very finely chopped. Add the fish sauce and oil and process, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the processor, until a coarse paste forms.

summer 2015 real food 55


pairings

Think Pink From pale pink and salmon to light red, there are as many hues of rosé wines as there are styles to suit your tastes. BY MARY SUBIALKA It’s not all the sweet stuff you may think it is. In that colorful bottle of pink wine may be a dry little number with enough acidity to be just what you’re looking for. The notion of pink wine may have been tainted by sweet wines in that hue which were all the rage in the 1970s and beyond. But, there are good dry options domestically and especially from abroad. The French make more of it than any other country and excellent rosé comes from Tavel in the southern Rhône region. Rosés are probably the most versatile food wine around. They complement chicken, turkey, sausage, hamburgers, and barbecue. It’s the wine of choice in the South of France to pair with the classic niçoise salad. Pink fish, such as salmon and steelhead trout, and meatier varieties such as tuna, red snapper, swordfish, and marlin find a friend in rosé. So, too, do spicy bouillabaisse and garlicky grilled shrimp. “For reasons not fully understood by chefs and wine professionals, rosés are fantastic with anything that has a lot of garlic,” says Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible and creator and chair of the Rudd Center for Professional Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America in the Napa Valley. “In summer, they are also great with a platter of grilled vegetables as well as salads that have meat and vegetables in them (like a chicken Caesar).” When selecting rosé, buy a recent vintage, which will taste fresher. Most rosé does not age, so you don’t want to hang onto it for years—ponder which shade you may like, and enjoy it now. ■ PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food summer 2015


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Lunds and Byerlys REAL FOOD Summer 2015  

Lunds and Byerlys REAL FOOD Summer 2015