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Lunds & Byerlys real food spring 2017

Lunds & Byerlys

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SPRING 2017

COMPLIMENTARY

Treasures of the Sea Savor delicious dishes from the deep blue

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volume 13 number 1

03

FREE

MEATLESS MEALS: Flavorful protein alternatives CREATIVE CHARCUTERIE: Cured meats for apps and more KICK UP CHICKEN: Add international flair

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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.


contents

Features 20 Meatless Meals Enjoy an array of seasonally inspired dishes that provide flavorful protein alternatives BY ROBIN ASBELL

30 Kick up Your Chicken Spice up this popular protein with international flair RECIPES BY THE NATIONAL CHICKEN COUNCIL

38 Sea Treasure Savor delicious discoveries from the deep blue RECIPES BY BARTON SEAVER

46 Creative Charcuterie Cured meats are fabulous from hors d’oeuvres through the main course RECIPES BY CHARLES WEKSELBAUM

52 Daphne Oz The Chew’s cohost on how celebrating with food can be a daily way of life BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Sweet and easy traybakes RECIPES BY JULIAN DAY AND VICTORIA GLASS

6 Kitchen Skills Great dressings start with classic sauces BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Salt: This mineral is definitely worth its salt BY CLAIRE NOACK

18 Healthy Habits Approachable weekday Paleo diet RECIPES BY DANIEL GREEN

56 Pairings Torrontés: Argentina’s signature white wine BY MARY SUBIALKA

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real food spring 2017


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Our Cover

Pasta Crabonara (page 44)

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Deep-Poached Halibut with Green Goddess Dressing (page 42) Photographs by Terry Brennan

PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITOR AUBREY SCHIELD ASSISTANT CONTENT PRODUCER KYLE SMELTER SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ATHAR KAKKA CONTRIBUTOR CLAIRE NOACK EDITORIAL INTERN CASSIDY FISCHER

VOLUME 13, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com C

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The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.


bites

Springtime Sweets Discover two simple recipes, perfect for entertaining

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pring often inspires rejuvenation, new life and new ideas. Breathe some freshness into your recipe collection with twists on classic foods. Whether you are searching for a recipe for the school bake sale or need to whip up something for brunch with the girls, a sweet treat is a surefire crowd-pleaser. The recipes in Brownies, Blondies and Other Traybakes, edited by Alice Sambrook, spark baking brilliance with easy and delicious mixtures that can be prepared in one pan and popped into the oven. With simple ingredients and a range of classic, fruity, nutty and decadent creations to choose from, bakers of all levels can make tasty treats in no time and get to the best part faster—eating. —Claire Noack

RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM BROWNIES, BLONDIES AND OTHER TRAYBAKES RYLAND PETERS & SMALL, COPYRIGHT 2016. PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLYN BARBER (BAKEWELL SLICES) AND CLARE WINFIELD (MILLIONAIREJACKS).

Bakewell Slices MAKES 12, RECIPE BY JULIAN DAY

If you like Bakewell tart but have only ever eaten the commercially produced variety, you’re in for a treat. No sign here of sickly sweet fondant icing or a neon-bright cherry on top—just a sweet pastry base, good raspberry jam/jelly and fragrant frangipane paste topped with almonds. It is excellent as a teatime treat or served warm with cream. Pastry Base 11⁄2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1⁄3 cup ground almonds 1⁄3 cup caster/superfine sugar 11 tablespoons butter, at room temperature, cubed 1 egg yolk 2⁄3 cup raspberry jam/jelly Filling 9 tablespoons butter, softened 3⁄4 cup caster/superfine sugar 4 eggs 13⁄4 cups ground almonds 1⁄3 cup flaked/slivered almonds, to decorate 1. Put the flour, ground almonds and sugar in a large bowl and stir until evenly mixed. Add the butter and use your fingertips to rub it into the mixture until the texture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and, still using your hands, mix and knead until the dough binds together into a tight, smooth ball. 2. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 30 minutes until firm. Remove the pastry from the refrigerator and allow to rest at room temperature for 15 minutes before using. 3. Preheat the oven to 325°F. 4. Grease a 14x8x11⁄4-inch baking pan. On a lightly floured work surface, carefully roll out the pastry until about 1⁄4-inch thick and use it to line the baking pan. The pastry is fragile to handle but any gaps can be repaired using surplus pastry. Gently press along the sides and into the corners and trim off the excess pastry with a sharp knife. Prick the base in a few places with

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a fork and line the tart case with a sheet of baking parchment. 5. Fill the tart case with baking beans and blind bake in the preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Leave the oven on. Spread the raspberry jam/jelly evenly over the cooled pastry base. 6. To make the filling, cream together the butter and sugar in a large bowl until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Add the ground almonds and whisk thoroughly. 7. Spoon the filling over the jam/jelly base and spread to the sides of the pan. Sprinkle the almonds over the top and bake in the hot oven for 30 to 35 minutes or until the filling is golden on top and feels firm in the middle. 8. Remove from the oven and let cool before cutting into 12 slices. The slices will keep in an airtight container for 5 to 7 days.


bites

Millionairejacks MAKES 8, RECIPE BY VICTORIA GLASS

Two very special British traybakes merged into one: These millionaire’s flapjacks combine the buttery, syrupdrenched oats of flapjacks with the caramel and chocolate topping of millionaire’s shortbread. Sticky and sweet, with a pleasing chewiness, this fusion is extremely “moreish.” Consider yourself warned. Flapjack 3⁄4 cup light brown soft sugar 10 tablespoons softened butter 2 tablespoons golden syrup/light corn syrup 11⁄2 cups rolled oats pinch of salt Caramel Layer 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter 1⁄3 cup light brown soft sugar 2 tablespoons golden syrup/light corn syrup 1 tablespoon vanilla extract pinch of salt 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk Chocolate Topping 61⁄2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 1. Preheat the oven to 300°F. 2. Start by making the flapjack. Melt together the sugar, butter and golden syrup/light corn syrup over a gentle heat, stirring all the time. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the oats and salt until fully combined and coated. 3. Grease an 8-inch square pan and line with parchment. Spoon the flapjack mixture into the prepared pan and press it level with the back of a spoon. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes. Leave to cool in the pan on top of a wire rack. 4. Meanwhile, make the caramel layer. Put all the ingredients, except the sweetened condensed milk, into a pan and stir over a gentle heat until the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved. 5. Add the condensed milk and increase the heat, stirring frequently and being careful not to let the base of the mixture catch. Bring to a boil, still stirring every now and then, until the mixture has thickened and turned a deep golden color. Take the pan off the heat and let cool slightly. 6. Pour the warm caramel over the cooled flapjack base and let cool completely. 7. Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Do not let the base of the bowl touch the water. Stir occasionally until the chocolate has melted and let cool slightly before pouring the chocolate over the cold caramel. 8. Cool completely before pushing the base of the pan out and cutting the millionaire flapjack into 8 bars. ■

TOSTADAS DELUXE

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kitchen skills

The Mother of Cold Sauces A great family of dressings starts with classic sauces BY JASON ROSS

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here are two cold sauces you need to know. Sometimes referred to as the cold mother sauces, vinaigrette and mayonnaise make the basis for nearly any salad dressing. Both sauces mix oil and liquid to make a creamy combination called an emulsion, and both sauces taste best when there is a balance in flavor of fat and acid. Once you get the basics down you can expand your repertoire of sauces, which have many uses beyond dressing a salad. Vinaigrettes match perfectly with salads, but also can be used to marinate meats, fish or grilled vegetables. Mayonnaise forms the foundation for most of the thick dressings including ranch, blue cheese and thousand island. Plus, the same sauces could be used for dips and spreads. Try them on sandwiches, wraps, burgers and pizzas. Following are a creamy vinaigrette and the crowd favorite ranch dressing to get you started.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE - USE A BLENDER! For a really strong emulsion, you can use a blender instead of a whisk. FOR EMULSIFIED VINAIGRETTE: Simply put all the ingredients in the blender and blend on high speed for up to 1 minute. This will save time, especially mincing ingredients, and whisking by hand. The texture is a bit different from hand minced, but you could also blend the oils, vinegar and mustard to emulsify, and then stir in by hand the minced items. FOR MAYONNAISE: Put egg yolk, vinegar, mustard, white pepper and salt in blender. With it running on low speed, pour oil through opened lid in a thin stream until all oil is incorporated.

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Creamy Mustard Herb Vinaigrette MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS (ABOUT 1 CUP)

Use this vinaigrette to dress your favorite greens and lettuces, or marinate chicken breast for up to 1 hour before grilling or roasting in the oven. ½ 2 1 1 ½ 2 1 1 1 ½ 2

teaspoon salt tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoon Dijon mustard tablespoon cold water cup neutral oil (vegetable, grape seed or canola) tablespoons olive oil clove garlic, finely minced tablespoon minced shallots tablespoon minced parsley teaspoon minced lemon zest grinds black pepper, or to taste

1. In a medium mixing bowl, dissolve salt into vinegar using a whisk. 2. Whisk in the mustard and water until fully combined, thick and cloudy. 3. Then whisk the mustard mixture while pouring in the neutral oil until fully combined. Whisk in olive oil. 4. Add in the garlic, shallot, parsley, lemon zest and black pepper. The dressing will last well refrigerated in a covered container for up to 1 week. Stir or shake before using if the oil and vinegar have separated.

Making Creamy Vinaigrette You might think the trick to making creamy vinaigrette is adding a little cream, but actually it is making an emulsion. An emulsion combines liquids—in this case oil and vinegar—which would otherwise separate. This emulsified vinaigrette uses the classic mustard with minced shallots and garlic, to hold it together and produce a clingy, creamy dressing. The rule of thumb for vinaigrette is 3 to 1—that’s 3 parts oil to 1 part acid (which is usually vinegar, but citrus juice works as well).


Buttermilk Ranch Dressing

Homemade Mayonnaise

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

Ranch dressing is a favorite for kids and adults and can be used as a dip, dressing or sandwich spread. The base for ranch is mayonnaise and spices and seasoning add flavor. Buttermilk serves two purposes—thinning the dressing and adding tangy bite.

This basic recipe serves as the foundation for many other sauces and dressings and can quickly and easily be made at home. The general rule for making thick, creamy mayonnaise is that for every egg yolk, use 1 cup of oil.

1. In a medium mixing bowl combine onion, garlic, salt and sugar. Allow it to sit for 2 to 3 minutes until weepy and a bit moistened; the salt and sugar soften the intense flavor of raw onion and garlic. 2. Mix in remaining ingredients with a mixing spoon. 3. Dressing is ready to serve. It can be stored in a covered container refrigerated for up to 1 week.

1 1 1 1 1 1

egg yolk (See Cook’s Note) tablespoon prepared mustard tablespoon white wine vinegar pinch salt pinch ground white pepper cup neutral oil (vegetable, grape seed or canola)

1. Put the yolk, mustard, vinegar, salt and white pepper in a mixing bowl and stir with a whisk. 2. Whisk the yolk mixture and pour in a few drops of oil. Continue whisking and pour in a few more drops of oil. While whisking, add the remaining oil in a thin stream until all oil is added and fully incorporated. 3. Store mayonnaise covered and refrigerated for up to 7 days. Cook’s Note: Use pasteurized eggs if unpasteurized may pose any health concerns. ■ NUTRITION

2 tablespoons minced onion ½ teaspoon minced garlic ½ teaspoon salt pinch sugar 1 tablespoon minced parsley 1 tablespoon minced chives 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar ½ cup buttermilk dash Tabasco 2 grinds black pepper 1 cup mayonnaise (see recipe at right)

CREAMY MUSTARD HERB VINAIGRETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 137 (134 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 172mg; CARB 0g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

BUTTERMILK RANCH DRESSING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 172 (165 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 3g); CHOL 15mg; SODIUM 147mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g


contributors

Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is 300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix. She is also the author of Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More; Juice It!; Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta.

Terry Brennan

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis, Minn. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Jason Ross

Tara Q. Thomas

intended to be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, but got sidetracked by wine. She has been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is Executive Editor. Author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and a contributor to the forthcoming Oxford Companions to cheese and to spirits, she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, N.Y., juggling a laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

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is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minn., home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

Charles Wekselbaum,

better known by his nickname, Charlito, owns Charlito’s Cocina, a producer of all-natural salamis. He studied at the French Culinary Institute in New York City and has been profiled by Food and Wine magazine, The New York Times, and more. His black truffle salami was featured as one of Oprah’s favorite things in 2012. His latest book is Cured: Handcrafted Charcuteria & More.

Barton Seaver

is a firm believer that human health depends on the health of the ocean and that the best way to connect the two is at the dinner table. Highlights of his culinary career include three Rising Culinary Star awards, twice earning Best New Restaurant awards, and being honored in 2009 by Esquire magazine as Chef of the Year. Since leaving the restaurant world, Barton has become involved with a number of local and international initiatives. He is the Director of the Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative at the Center for Health and the Global Environment at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health. The author of five books including For Cod and Country and Two if By Sea, he is also a contributing editor at Cooking Light and Coastal Living magazines. Barton currently resides in coastal Maine, a stone’s throw away from a working waterfront, with his wife and their 10 heritage chickens.


Lunds & Byerlys welcome

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Sustainable Seafood, Responsibly Sourced

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ild halibut, sockeye salmon and swordfish. Farm-raised tilapia, Atlantic salmon and Copano Blues shrimp. All of these great seafood offerings in our stores share an important attribute—they come from sustainable fisheries that meet our stringent “Responsibly Sourced” criteria. Nearly six years ago we made a commitment to dramatically increase the number of sustainable seafood choices in our stores. To do so, we knew it would mean taking the knowledge and passion of our team and combining it with some of the leading sustainable seafood resources throughout the country, including the Global Aquaculture Alliance, Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch and Alaska Seafood. Another key partner in our quest to expand our sustainable seafood choices is The Fish Guys, a local company supplying our stores with fresh seafood seven days a week. Led by the highly experienced and trusted team of Mike Higgins and Brent Casper, The Fish Guys source whole fish so their skilled team can fillet them to our exact specifications. Their commitment to exceptional quality is matched by their care and commitment to searching the globe for new fisheries that meet our Responsibly Sourced guidelines. With their help we introduced Copano Blues Shrimp and Regal Springs Tilapia this past year. Both of these seafood companies are on the leading edge of sustainability, and we’re thrilled to now be offering you these great Responsibly Sourced seafood choices. To learn more

about Regal Springs Tilapia and our everexpanding sustainable seafood options, see pages 12-13. When we launched our Responsibly Sourced program in 2011, approximately 50 percent of our fresh and frozen raw seafood offerings were sustainable. Today, nearly 75 percent of our seafood offerings come from fisheries whose practices ensure they can maintain or increase production without jeopardizing the ecosystems from which the seafood is raised and harvested. As we look to increase our Responsibly Sourced offerings to more than 80 percent this year, our seafood team is actively exploring fair-trade tuna. We expect to have it available in all of our stores by this summer. Logo Lock-up The next time you’re in our meat and seafood department, look for our Responsibly Sourced logo. It’s your guarantee that the fishery is maintaining an abundance of marine life for our future generations. Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

LFH3247_SustainSeafood_012811

Tres Lund

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Lunds & Byerlys nourish

Goat Chévre Frittata MAKES 6 SERVINGS

with Feeling Great Explore new tastes and find balance in your life with Nourish

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hen it comes to good health, food is incredibly important. That’s why we’re so excited about Nourish, our approach to supporting you on your personal health and wellness journey. Nourish is not a diet; it’s a lifestyle that revolves around eating pure, nutrient-dense, honest-togoodness real foods. It’s designed to provide you with education, inspiration and support to help you make thoughtful food choices, explore new tastes and find balance in your life. As you walk through our stores, look for signs calling out foods and products that fit the Nourish lifestyle. You’ll also find our FoodE Experts and other experts hosting weekly demonstrations with Nourish-friendly recipes and foods. Other resources include our monthly Nourish magazine, featuring seasonal organic and natural products on promotion, recipes and educational articles, and our Lunds & Byerlys website and Nourish information table, which provides up-to-date information on Nourish happenings. Here are a few recipes to help get you started.

GOAT CHÉVRE FRITTATA

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1. Position rack in upper third of oven; heat broiler to medium high. 2. Place eggs, egg whites, herbs, salt, pepper and water in a medium bowl and whisk for 3 minutes. 3. Heat oil in an 8-inch cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and cook for 1 minute, then add bell pepper, zucchini and asparagus and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. 4. Pour the egg mixture over the vegetables and cook, lifting the edges of the frittata to allow the uncooked egg to flow underneath, until the bottom is lightly golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Dot the top of the frittata with the cheese, transfer the pan to the oven and broil until puffy and lightly golden on top, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and cut into 6 pieces.

RECIPE ADAPTED FROM JUST BARE CHICKEN

Fall in Love

6 Lunds & Byerlys Organic Large Eggs 2 Lunds & Byerlys Organic Large Egg Whites ½ teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Dried Basil ¼ teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Dried Oregano ½ teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Sea Salt ⅛ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground 1 tablespoon water 2 tablespoons California Olive Ranch Olive Oil 2 tablespoons shallots, minced 1 teaspoon garlic, minced ½ cup red bell pepper, diced ½ cup zucchini, diced 1 cup asparagus, woody stems removed, cut into 1-inch pieces ¼ cup Montchevré Plain Goat Cheese, large crumbles


Lunds & Byerlys nourish

King Kong Strong Superfood Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Edamame 3 cups water 1 cup organic edamame beans, shelled

Lemon Herbed Salmon with Garlicky Spinach MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Salmon 11⁄2 pounds Wild Alaska Sockeye Salmon Fillets, cut into 6 (4-ounce) fillets ¼ teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Sea Salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground 2 tablespoons California Olive Ranch Olive Oil 2 teaspoons raw organic honey 2 tablespoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed 2 tablespoons scallions (white and green parts), minced 1 tablespoon fresh dill, minced 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced Greens 1 tablespoon garlic, slivered 2 tablespoons California Olive Ranch Olive Oil 8 cups baby organic spinach, tightly packed ¼ teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Sea Salt

NUTRITION

1. To prepare the salmon, heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a baking pan and place the salmon fillets in baking pan skin side down. Salt and pepper each salmon fillet. 2. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, honey and lemon juice; stir into this mixture the scallions, dill and parsley. 3. Smear herb mixture over each salmon fillet. Roast salmon for 15 to 17 minutes. 4. To prepare the greens, while the salmon is in the oven, place a large shallow pan over medium heat and add garlic slivers and olive oil. 5. Once garlic starts frying, let cook for 30 seconds and then add spinach (in batches if too much for the pan) and salt and turn heat up to medium high. 6. Cook spinach, stirring and turning it over constantly (adding more spinach once enough has wilted to provide room in pan), for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat. 7. Divide spinach into 6 portions and serve salmon fillets over spinach.

GOAT CHÉVRE FRITTATA: PER SERVING: Calories: 140 Total Fat: 10g Saturated Fat: 2.5g Trans Fat: 0g

Cholesterol: 180mg Sodium: 300mg Carbohydrate: 3g Fiber: 1g Sugars: 1g Protein: 9g

LEMON HERBED SALMON W. GARLICKY SPINACH: PER SERVING: Calories: 290 Total Fat: 18g Saturated Fat: 2.5g

Dressing 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 3 teaspoons Lunds & Byerlys Pure Maple Syrup ¼ teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Sea Salt 3 tablespoons California Olive Ranch Olive Oil Salad 3 cups curly kale, stems removed and chopped 1 cup purple cabbage, thinly sliced 1⁄2 cup carrots, matchstick size julienne ¼ cup red onion, thinly sliced in half rings 1 cup blueberries 1⁄3 cup cashew pieces, roasted and salted 3 tablespoons sunflower seeds, roasted and salted 1⁄3 cup dried cranberries 1. To prepare edamame beans, bring 3 cups water to a boil. Drop in frozen edamame beans and quickly blanch for 1 to 2 minutes. Immediately immerse in cold ice water. Drain. 2. To make dressing, whisk together vinegar, maple syrup and salt in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in olive oil to emulsify. 3. Right before serving, in large bowl combine all ingredients. Toss to coat. ■

Trans Fat: 0g Cholesterol: 75mg Sodium: 340mg Carbohydrate: 7g Fiber: 2g Sugars: 2g Protein: 27g

K I N G KO N G S T R O N G SUPERFOOD SALAD: PER SERVING: Calories: 320 Total Fat: 20g Saturated Fat:

3g Trans Fat: 0g Cholesterol: 0mg Sodium: 280mg Carbohydrate: 32g Fiber: 6g Sugars: 20g Protein: 7g

* Nutrition content of these recipes is calculated by a registered dietitian nutritionist. Due to variations in ingredients and measurements, values are approximations. Nutrients provided for this recipe represent values based on the best available information. This information is not intended to treat or diagnose. Please consult your physician for diet recommendations specific to your personal needs.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11


Lunds & Byerlys meat and seafood

Regal Springs Tilapia Partnering to provide you with the best fully traceable and sustainable seafood BY SCOTT KERSTING, DIRECTOR OF MEAT & SEAFOOD

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e strive to bring you as many responsibly sourced seafood choices as possible through partnerships with organizations that ensure fisheries are utilizing sustainable practices. That’s why we partner with Regal Springs Tilapia—an industry leader—to provide you with the best fully traceable and sustainable product possible. In July 2016, Regal Springs Honduras became the only tilapia farm in the world to be awarded both the Best Aquaculture Practices (BAP) 4-Star certification and the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) certification. This accomplishment is an important stride in premium tilapia production, especially as we focus more and more on sustainable seafood sourcing. In November, I headed down to Regal Springs’ Aquafinca in Aldea El Borboton, Honduras to take a look at their newly BAP-certified tilapia farm. My visit gave me a behind-thescenes look at one of the most sustainable aquaculture farms in the world. Regal Springs’ commitment to environmentally and socially responsible aquaculture is evident in all parts of their business. Their tilapia is raised in vast, pristine deep-water lakes in Mexico, Honduras and Indonesia. Each lake is chosen for its superior water quality and ecological standards. And, since water quality is critical to its farming operations, the lakes are consistently monitored and tested to ensure the water supply remains healthy for generations to come. As I saw firsthand, each of the lakes is outfitted with oversized floating nets that give the tilapia the freedom to swim against the lake

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currents, just like in the wild. This natural environment keeps the tilapia healthy and free of chemicals, mercury and growth hormones by removing their opportunity to graze on harmful algae or mud. Instead, the tilapia is fed a vegetable-based food made from American soybeans, corn and grain, which promotes overall health. Our partners at Regal Springs explained that the practice of farming in pristine lakes, controlling the feed the fish consume and conducting extensive on-site water tests ensures their tilapia are not exposed to contaminants, which, in turn, gives the fish a pleasingly mild flavor and flaky texture. Once the fish are harvested from the lakes, they are brought directly to Regal Springs’ state-of-the-art plant where they are processed just minutes after arrival. I was impressed with the way the entire process is meticulously monitored by a team of certified inspectors who ensure absolute quality and consistency in each tilapia fillet. Their process is simple, yet effective: Tilapia is hand-cut, trimmed, inspected and packed so it can be sent directly to our stores for you to enjoy. As impressed as I was with Regal Springs’ commitment to quality and sustainability, I was equally impressed with their commitment to social responsibility. They’ve made it their mission to invest in schools, orphanages, health clinics, transportation and many other initiatives in the communities where they operate. It’s clear they take immense pride in caring for their employees and making each community stronger. In addition to certifications from BAP and

ASC, Regal Springs has met the health and safety standards of Surefish/Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point Food Safety System, Ocean Wise and Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. Their commitment to raising healthy, sustainable fish that adheres to the highest international standards truly guarantees you receive the best tilapia possible. We’re excited for you to try this delicious tilapia for yourself! Visit any of our meat and seafood departments to find Regal Springs Tilapia. ■

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PRODUCING PREMIUM TILAPIA WHILE BUILDING COMMUNITIES Healthy fish start with healthy people. Regal Springs believes that when the people and communities who bring you Regal Springs Tilapia are healthy, happy and successful, the fish they produce for you will be the best in the world. Here are some of the ways Regal Springs supports their communities in Mexico, Honduras and Indonesia. Education: Regal Springs is committed to educating their employees and their children. They continuously invest in building and operating local schools and paying teacher salaries. Additionally, they offer free adult education classes to their employees. Health: Regal Springs keeps the health of their employees and their families at the forefront of what they do. They build local medical clinics and fund free wellness checkups, preventative care and immunizations for employees and their children. Infrastructure: Regal Springs supports infrastructure improvements by helping build schools and roads and ensuring a plentiful supply of clean water. Their support also extends to assisting people in building their own businesses. They do so by providing training for independent aquaculture projects, which work in conjunction with Regal Springs’ operations. Environment: Regal Springs is committed to caring for the environment where their fish are raised. They work closely with the people, organizations and governments in the areas where they raise tilapia to improve the health of the lakes. They do this, in part, by implementing a strict zero-waste policy, which ensures there isn’t any contamination or damage to the ecosystems of the lakes. FOR THIS RECIPE AND MANY MORE TILAPIA RECIPES, VISIT REGALSPRINGS.COM/RECIPES

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13


Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

E&C’S HUNKOLA Whether you’re on the go or in the office, Hunkola is the wholesome way to satisfy your sweet tooth. The unique cookie granola is a smash-up of almonds, cashews, dates, dried fruit and rolled oats, which makes Hunkola a delicious vegan, gluten-free and non-GMO snack.

Did you know? E&C’s was created by Ellen and her nephew, Casey. The pair’s first project was sharing Ellen’s famous Hunks—or cookies—with hungry people around the country.

GARDEN OF FLAVOR ONE DAY JUICE CLEANSE If you’re looking to rest and reboot your system, conquer cravings or shake off the sluggishness that can result from the hectic pace of daily life, a Garden of Flavor juice cleanse is a great way to start. Replenish your body for one to five days. Nature. There is nothing more to add.

Did you know? Every Garden of Flavor One Day Juice Cleanse provides you with the nutrients of nearly 20 pounds of raw, organic leafy green vegetables, fruits, berries and nuts and contains 34 grams of plant-based protein.

LIVIA’S SEASONING SALT For more than 60 years, Livia Youngdahl wowed friends and family with the special recipe for her seasoning salt—a blend of kosher salt, coarse ground pepper and just a touch of garlic. In 1998, Livia’s niece Susan began selling the unique blend to customers all over Minnesota and beyond.

Tip: Livia’s can be sprinkled on salmon, blended into a salad dressing or used to spice up spaghetti. Try Livia’s wherever you need an added kick.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

ORO DI SICILIA GREEN GOLD EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Green Gold is a cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil made from a blend of three different Sicilian olives. All three olive varieties are grown, harvested, coldpressed and bottled on the Asaro Estate in Sicily—a century-old family farm overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

Tip: Green Gold is a truly versatile olive oil. It’s great for finishing dishes, as a dipping sauce for crusty bread or as a dressing for salads, fish and chicken.

LUNDS & BYERLYS SPRING SPICES AND SEASONINGS Our new sweet and savory spring seasonings make it easy to add the fresh flavors of springtime to your favorite dishes. Ham Seasoning: It’s the perfect blend of apple and cloves melded with mustard, onion, paprika and just a touch of sugar. Sprinkle on your traditional holiday ham. Berry Spice: This blend of cinnamon, cloves, coriander, anise and sugar creates a warm, delicious flavor. Use on top of fresh berries or strawberry shortcake.

LA TOURANGELLE ARTISAN OILS La Tourangelle handcrafted oils are natural, flavorful options that provide endless cooking possibilities. The creation of their oils is part art, part science: Every detail counts, from the timing of the harvest and selection of the fruit to the technique for pressing and filtering. Flavors include roasted walnut, basil, toasted sesame and herbs de Provence.

Did you know? La Tourangelle uses a 150-year-old mill to press the oils, which keeps alive the traditional production method and retains all the flavors, nutrients and health benefits nature provides.

Spring Vegetable Seasoning: This light, fresh blend combines tarragon, parsley and garlic with the bright taste of lemon. Pair with any green veggies.

Tip: For an easy side dish, place fresh asparagus in a single layer in a baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with Lunds & Byerlys Spring Vegetable Seasoning. Top with grated Parmesan or crumbled blue cheese and roast at 425°F for 12 to 15 minutes.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15


Get your grill on

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ingredient

Salt of the Earth Vital for numerous functions of human life, this mineral is definitely worth its salt

I

f you ever feel guilty about eating salty french fries or popcorn, just remember that salt is one of the world’s most essential minerals and is a necessary element for your body. While it should be eaten in moderation, a little salt in your diet is actually crucial for maintaining good nutrition. Apart from intensifying the flavor of food, salt contains important nutrients for digestion, stimulates muscle contraction, and helps retain water in the body. Throughout history, people have been using salt for necessities such as preserving cured meats and cheeses and baking bread. According to the Salt Institute, everyone’s favorite mineral has been used for more than 8,000 years. From biblical references to wars fought over salty terrains, salt has had large economic, political and spiritual implications. The word “salary” even comes from the Latin salarium (sal sal means salt in Latin), which references the money that Roman soldiers used to buy salt. Today, salt is used in many aspects of life, including electrolyte sports drinks, home water softeners, road safety during harsh winters and even for beauty and bath products. It is an ingredient required for everyday functions around the world—and that’s not something to be taken with a grain of salt. —Claire Noack

COMPARING EVERYDAY SALTS Black lava sea salt, which is infused with activated charcoal during the drying process, adds great contrast when sprinkled on top of food. Hailing from Cyprus or Hawaii, black lava salt has a mild, earthy flavor and is believed to have detoxifying properties. Create a dramatic look by adding this jet-black salt to top off eggs, potatoes, meat or salads. Fleur de sel, or “flower of salt” in French, is hand harvested by raking the top of open pools of seawater. This type of sea salt is lower in sodium than other salts and has a delicate flavor. Often used as a special occasion salt, fleur de sel can be used for making chocolates and caramels, or sprinkled over seafood, tenderloin and fruit.

IMAGES STOLYEVYCH YULIA - FOTOLIA.COM

Himalayan pink salt has been growing in popularity for the past few years. Mined in the mountains of northern Pakistan, this mineral was formed from an ancient sea and estimated to be over 250 million years old. It is known as the purest salt on earth because it contains mineral traces and is unrefined. Pink salt has a subtler flavor than traditional table salt, and is best when added to dishes right before serving. Kosher salt is used in the kosher butchering process to absorb fluids in the meat and then is rinsed off. Made by crushing cubic crystals between rollers, kosher salt is flat in shape, dissolves quickly and has no additives. Due to its neutral flavor, kosher salt can be used in anything from seasoning meat or baking to flavoring popcorn. Sea salt is made by evaporating seawater, which contrasts with inland salt that is mined in the mountains from ancient seabeds. Sea salts are typically more flavorful than inland salts because the drying process leaves behind trace minerals. With a hint of briny flavor, this salt is great for finishing off cooked meals, such as fish or vegetables. Table salt is more processed to remove extra minerals and usually has added iodine, a nutrient that supports a healthy thyroid. Although sea salt is promoted as the healthier option, table salt and sea salt contain similar amounts of sodium by weight. Table salt is used for anything and everything—just make sure to not overdo it. ■

spring 2017 real food 17


healthy habits

The Paleo Diet Follow this simple schedule to lessen the restraints without compromising results

R

emoving processed food from your diet seems easy enough, right? Until you start craving the local pizza joint’s best pie, that is. Since strict diets can be somewhat unrealistic, try PHOTOS AND RECIPES FROM PALEO MONDAY TO FRIDAY BY the “80/20” principle. Follow the Paleo diet Monday through Friday, relax the rules on the DANIEL GREEN, COPYRIGHT 2015, REPRINTED WITH weekend, and you’ll still see great results. PERMISSION OF KYLE BOOKS. In its simplest form, the Paleo diet consists of eating the foods our earliest ancestors used to PHOTOS BY PETER CASSIDY eat—only the meat, fish, greens, nuts and seeds that they could either hunt or gather. Daniel Green, author of Paleo Monday to Friday: A Diet So Good You Can Take the Weekend Off Off, suggests only avoiding the Paleo diet no-nos (processed foods, refined and added sugars, grains, beans, legumes, vegetable and seed oils, potatoes, and dairy products) during the weekdays. “If you are fundamentally healthy, there is no reason why you shouldn’t eat a bit of dairy or a few grains or a baked potato now and again,” he advises. The Paleo diet’s benefits may include improving sleep, speeding up your metabolism, aiding digestion, improving your immunity and keeping you looking and feeling fantastic. Green, who lost more than 60 pounds and has kept it off for over 25 years, shares a global collection of flavorful and healthy recipes for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks, including the following comfort meals like pad thai and the juicy beef burger. Starting any new diet is difficult, but with the 80/20 rule you will be well on your way to a healthier lifestyle before you know it. —Cassidy Fischer

Pad Thai SERVES 4

This is the closest you can get to the flavors of a pad thai on the Paleo diet— true comfort food at its best! For the marinade 1 teaspoon fish sauce juice of ½ lemon 1 teaspoon chile powder 1 teaspoon maple syrup olive oil spray, for cooking 3 zucchini, sliced into matchsticks large handful of cilantro leaves, finely chopped 2 scallions, finely chopped 1 cup bean sprouts 12 tiger shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons cashews, to garnish 1. First make the marinade: In a large bowl, mix together the fish sauce, lemon juice, chile powder and maple syrup and set aside. 2. Heat a large non-stick wok over high heat, spray with olive oil and sauté the zucchini for 2 minutes. 3. Remove the zucchini from the pan and add to the marinade. Stir to mix, then add the cilantro, scallions and bean sprouts. 4. Meanwhile, spray the wok again with a little oil and sauté the shrimp for 2 minutes on each side until cooked through. 5. Divide the vegetables between four serving plates and distribute the shrimp on top. Garnish with the cashews and serve. Cook’s Note: Fish sauce is made from fermenting tiny fish, such as anchovies, in brine and then preserving the liquid, so it should contain only two Paleo-friendly ingredients—fish and salt. However, check the labels and avoid any products with unnecessary extras such as hydrolyzed wheat protein and fructose.

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Beef Burger in an Eggplant Bun SERVES 4

You do need a knife and fork to eat this but it has a really nice texture and is a much better alternative to eating the burger on its own. olive oil, for frying 1 eggplant, sliced into 8 rounds red onion, thinly sliced 1 little gem lettuce or ½ head of romaine 1 tablespoon homemade ketchup (recipe below) For the burgers 1 pound lean ground beef 1 egg 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ red onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon onion powder (optional) ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon chopped parsley For the guacamole 1 avocado juice of 1 lime handful of cilantro 1 red or green chile, seeded and finely chopped

1. First, make the ketchup: Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then turn down to a simmer, cover, turn off the heat, and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir before serving. 2. Place all the burger ingredients in a large bowl and mix together with your hands, then shape into four burgers. 3. Spray a non-stick frying pan with a little olive oil and fry the burgers over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until cooked to your liking. (Alternatively, oven cook them for 20 to 25 minutes in an oven preheated to 400°F, but don’t forget to flip them halfway through.) 4. Meanwhile, heat a little oil in a second non-stick pan and fry the eggplant slices over medium to high heat for 23 minutes on each side. 5. For the guacamole, place all ingredients in a bowl and mash everything together with a fork. 6. Stack each burger on an eggplant slice and layer up with salad, red onion, guacamole, and tomato ketchup. Serve immediately. Cook’s Note: When cooking burgers, try to resist flipping too often. It is tempting but they can fall apart if you do. ■

NUTRITION

For the homemade tomato ketchup 1 14.5-ounce can puréed tomatoes 6 tablespoons tomato paste ¼ cup white vinegar 1½ tablespoons maple syrup

PAD THAI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 129; FAT 5g [sat. 1g]; SODIUM 0.8g; CARB 6g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 14g; SUGAR 4g

BEEF BURGER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 373; FAT 25g [sat. 9g]; SODIUM 1.7g; CARB 7.5g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 26g; SUGAR 6g

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XXXXX

Meatless Meals Enjoy an array of seasonally inspired dishes that provide flavorful protein alternatives BY ROBIN ASBELL

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SPAGHETTI WITH KALE, CHICKPEAS, PISTACHIOS AND PARMESAN (RECIPE PAGE 23)

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

spring 2017 real food 21


BAKED FALAFEL IN PITAS WITH CUCUMBER YOGURT SAUCE (RECIPE PAGE 24)

22 real food spring 2017


I

f you are still planning your meals by picking a neat triangle of meat, vegetable and starch, it’s time to learn a new way of thinking—even the most dedicated omnivore can go meatless now and then. Plus, it is deliciously easy to get all the

protein and satisfaction you crave from a plant-based entrée. You may have heard of the movement afoot called the Meatless Monday Campaign, which has a goal of getting people to eat a little less meat. You don’t have to swear off bacon permanently; just one day or one meal at a time, enjoy something a little more veg-centric. In the process you can shrink your carbon footprint, save money and get a little healthier by eating more plants. What you reap in the bargain is a rainbow of tastes, textures and colors. We are used to including vegetables in meat dishes to add flavor and interest; why not use them to make beans just as exciting? You have free rein in the herb and spice department, too, so you can make sure that every bite delivers tons of scents and sensations. Spring is a perfect time to lighten up and enjoy the seasonal vegetables that are coming to market—asparagus, mushrooms, radishes and baby spinach are just a few of the veggies that will be fresh and full of flavor. Enjoy them in these seasonally inspired recipes and you won’t miss the meat.

Spaghetti with Kale, Chickpeas, Pistachios and Parmesan MAKES 4 (1½-CUP) SERVINGS

Pasta and beans are a classic combination; part of the Cucina Povera— Tuscan peasant cooking—that nourished Italians for centuries. They are also delicious together, and when sprinkled with crunchy nuts and melted cheese, will win your heart with textures and colors. This quick and easy one-pan meal is the perfect way to save a weeknight from boredom or fast food. 3 2 1 3 2 1 8 3⁄4 1⁄2

tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cloves garlic, chopped pinch red pepper flakes, optional cups sliced kale, about half a bunch cups cherry tomatoes, halved (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained ounces whole-wheat spaghetti cup shredded Parmesan cheese cup roasted unsalted pistachios, finely chopped

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil for the spaghetti, and cook when the kale goes into the pan. 2. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the garlic and red pepper flakes, if using. When the garlic is sizzling, but not browned, add the kale and stir for 2 minutes, until the kale is dark green and softened. Add the tomatoes and drained chickpeas and stir, tossing to coat. Cook until the chickpeas are heated through, and remove from heat if you are waiting for the pasta to cook. If you overcook, the tomatoes will explode and make the sauce watery. 3. When the pasta is done, drain well, add it to the pan with the kale, and toss with tongs to coat with the sauce. Sprinkle in the Parmesan as you toss, then the pistachios, so that the pasta is evenly coated with cheese and nuts. Serve hot.

MEATLESS PROTEINS There is protein in just about all of the foods we eat. We have become so used to referring to meats as “proteins” that you may not realize vegetables and grains are also sources of protein. Over the course of a day, eating lots of vegetables, combined with high protein meatless foods, is an easy way to get all the protein you need. For example, the 4 grams in 1⁄2 cup of peas, 2.5 grams in 1⁄2 cup of cooked spinach, 8 grams in 1 cup of broccoli, and the 4 grams in a slice of whole-wheat bread all add up. Vegetables are so low in calories and fat that their protein per calorie is often on par with calorie-dense meats. There are about 25 grams of protein in 3 ounces of chicken. (A 5’ 6,” 40-year-old woman, for example, needs about 47 grams of protein per day.) Protein Power Quinoa: 8g (1 cup cooked) Peanut Butter: 7g (2 tablespoons) Beans: About 15g (1 cup cooked) Tempeh: 15g (½ cup) Tofu: 20g (½ cup) Seitan or Mock Duck: 24g (1⁄2 cup) Edamame: 8.5g (½ cup) Hemp Seeds: 7g (3 tablespoons) Sunflower Seeds: 7g (1⁄4 cup) Soymilk 4-8g (1 cup) Low Fat Yogurt: 12g (1 cup)(RECIPE PAGE 35) CCCCCCCCCC Cheddar Cheese: 14g (1⁄2 cup shredded) Egg: 6g (1 large)

spring 2017 real food 23


Baked Falafel in Pitas with Cucumber Yogurt Sauce

Lentil Stuffed Peppers with Spicy Tomato Sauce

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The falafel you love at Mediterranean restaurants is often quite heavy, in part because it is deep-fried. This homemade version is kissed with just enough olive oil to crisp the edges, and has a generous handful of green herbs to boost the flavor. A drizzle of tangy yogurt-dill sauce adds a creamy note and even more protein to the tasty chickpea cakes.

French lentils, sometimes labeled as “Puy” or even “Beluga” lentils, are small, round lentils that keep their shape when cooked. This recipe will also work with common brown lentils, but it will not have the same texture and flavor. Chewy quinoa and smoky mozzarella entice in these pretty little pepper packages.

3 2 1⁄2 2 1 6 1⁄4 1 1 11⁄2 1

tablespoons olive oil cans (15-ounce) chickpeas, drained and patted dry cup chopped onion cups fresh parsley leaves cup fresh cilantro leaves garlic cloves, minced cup all-purpose flour teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Sauce 1 cup plain yogurt 1⁄2 cup chopped cucumber, peeled and seeded 1⁄2 teaspoon dill 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 6 medium (about 6-inch) whole-wheat pita breads 1 large tomato, sliced 1. Place oven rack in the middle position and preheat oven to 400°F. Spread half of the olive oil on a heavy sheet pan. 2. In a food processor, combine the chickpeas, onion, parsley, cilantro, garlic, flour, cumin, coriander, salt and pepper. Pulse about 12 times to process to a coarse paste. Use a scant oiled 1⁄4 cup measure to scoop the mixture and place on the oiled sheet pan. Lightly oil the palm of your hand and flatten the portions to about 3⁄4 inch thick. Use your fingertips to shape the rounds into neat disks. 3. Bake for 15 minutes, then carefully flip the patties and bake an additional 15 minutes. The patties will be golden brown and crispy. 4. While the falafel bakes, make the sauce. Stir together the yogurt, cucumber, dill and salt. 5. To serve, tuck two patties in each pita and add sliced tomato and cucumber sauce. Serve immediately.

24 real food spring 2017

4 1 1 2 1⁄2 3⁄4 3⁄4 2 1 1 1⁄2 4 1⁄2 1

green peppers tablespoon extra virgin olive oil medium onion, chopped cloves garlic cup quinoa cup vegetable stock cup French lentils tablespoons tomato paste tablespoon fresh thyme teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon salt ounces smoked mozzarella, shredded cup diced canned tomatoes, including juice teaspoon Tabasco sauce fresh thyme sprigs, for garnish

1. Slice the tops (or one side) from the peppers, making neat little caps. Trim away the seeds and membranes from the caps and the peppers. Nestle the peppers in a casserole dish so that they will sit upright. Save the caps to bake. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a 1-quart saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat, and add the onion and garlic. Stir for 5 minutes to soften, then add the quinoa and vegetable stock and bring to a boil. Cover and cook for 15 minutes on low. When all the liquid is absorbed, take off the heat and scrape into a large bowl. 3. In a medium saucepan, bring 4 cups water to a boil and add the lentils. Adjust heat to simmer, cover loosely. Cook for about 25 minutes, until the lentils are just tender but not falling apart. Drain well in wire mesh sieve; don’t rinse. Add the lentils to the bowl with the quinoa. Add the tomato paste, thyme, oregano and salt, and fold in gently. Let cool completely, then stir in the mozzarella. 4. Stuff the peppers. 5. Stir the diced tomatoes and Tabasco sauce in a cup, and spread on top of the peppers. Pour 1⁄2 cup water in the bottom of the casserole dish and place in the oven. Place the pepper caps on the oven rack and roast while the peppers cook. Bake about 40 minutes, until the peppers are tender when pierced with a paring knife. Place the pepper caps on top of the peppers at serving, if desired. Garnish with thyme sprigs and serve.


LENTIL STUFFED PEPPERS WITH SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

spring 2017 real food 25


Spring Vegetable Quesadillas MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Quesadillas are the grilled cheese sandwiches of Mexico, with melted cheese and crispy bread—plus the bonus of a salsa for dipping. These make the most of spring’s bounty, combining wild mushrooms, asparagus and strawberries in an unexpectedly delightful way. Baking your quesadillas ensures that they are all done at the same time, and the whole family can start dipping their crispy quesadillas in tangy salsa together. 1 31⁄2 2 2 1 1 8 8

Salsa tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 pound strawberries, chopped ounces shiitake mushroom caps, slivered 2 medium jalapeño peppers, cloves garlic, chopped seeded and chopped large scallions, whites and greens separated 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice bunch asparagus, chopped 1 teaspoon sugar, or more if needed (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed 1⁄4 teaspoon salt ounces pepper jack cheese, shredded 1⁄4 cup cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped 8-inch whole-wheat tortillas

1. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, pour the olive oil. Swirl the pan to distribute, then add the shiitakes and stir. Cook for about 2 minutes, until the mushrooms are browned and shrunken. Add the garlic and the white parts of the scallions and stir 1 minute, then add the asparagus. Stir about 1 minute, depending on the size of the asparagus, until the asparagus is just crisp-tender. Transfer the contents of the pan to a large bowl and let cool. When cool, add the drained beans and shredded pepper jack. 2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray two sheet pans lightly with vegetable oil spray. 3. Place four tortillas on the sheet pans and divide the filling between the tortillas and spread to cover. Top with the other four tortillas, and lightly spray the top tortilla. 4. Bake about 15 minutes, reversing the position of the pans halfway. 5. While tortillas are baking, make the salsa. Combine the strawberries, jalapeños, lime juice, sugar and salt in a medium bowl and stir. Add the reserved scallion greens and the cilantro and stir to mix. 6. When the tortillas are crisp and the cheese in melted, remove pans from oven. Transfer each quesadilla to a cutting board and use a chef’s knife or pizza wheel to cut each in 6 wedges. Serve hot with salsa.


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TOFU TALK If you are unfamiliar with tofu, you are not alone. Most Americans didn’t grow up eating this versatile, inexpensive plant protein. There are two basic forms: Chinese style and silken tofu. (To use tofu, drain and wrap in a kitchen towel to remove excess moisture.) Chinese style comes packed in water and has a porous, crumbly texture. It’s made by adding a coagulant to soymilk, which makes the proteins curdle, so that they can be scooped out and pressed into cubes, leaving behind most of the water. It comes in soft, regular, firm and extra firm versions, which delineate how much the tofu has been pressed to remove water and make it more dense. Since it is firm, it’s a good choice for burgers, stir-fries and grilling. It can sub for some or all the ground beef in tacos, chili and spaghetti, as long as you season it well with spices and salt. It’s also good scrambled, served like eggs or in a wrap or egg salad-style sandwich. In these recipes, try it instead of beans in the Jamaican curry, or crumbled in place of lentils in the stuffed peppers; just add more spices and herbs to taste. Silken tofu, which comes packed in water or in aseptic boxes, is made by thickening soymilk like a pudding, so it contains much more water, and has a smooth, silky texture. Because it is delicate, silken tofu is not the choice for grilling or stir-fries; it can be added to smoothies and puréed dressings in place of yogurt, or cubed and dropped into miso soup.

NUT ALLERGY?

NUTRITION

If you or someone you know is allergic to tree nuts, soy is an inexpensive alternative. Use chopped edamame (green soybeans) or roasted soy-nuts instead of cashews in the coconut rice recipe, or for the pistachios in the spaghetti.

SPAGHETTI W. KALE, CHICKPEAS, PISTACHIOS & PARMESAN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 617 (237 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 6g); CHOL 14mg; SODIUM 476mg; CARB 74g; FIBER 14g; PROTEIN 27g

28 real food spring 2017

BAKED FALAFEL IN PITAS W. YOGURT SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 407 (98 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 2g); CHOL 2mg; SODIUM 1324mg; CARB 65g; FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 16g

Jamaican Curried Spring Vegetables with Red Beans and Coconut-Cashew Rice MAKES 4 SERVINGS (ABOUT 4 CUPS CURRY AND 3 CUPS RICE)

Jamaica is a vegetarian paradise where tasty plants, spices and coconut milk combine to make flavor-packed masterpieces. Rastafarian chefs make the most of what is fresh in the melting pot cuisine that combines African, Indian, Chinese and other influences that have come to the Island since the beginning of the spice trade. Coconut-Cashew Rice 2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut shreds 2 cups water 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1 cup basmati rice 1⁄2 cup roasted, unsalted cashews, chopped Curry 1 (15-ounce) can coconut milk 4 large scallions, separate white and green parts and sliver 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1⁄2 teaspoon turmeric 1⁄2 teaspoon allspice 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 2 large jalapeño peppers (or 1 Scotch Bonnet), minced 1 bunch asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces 4 red radishes, quartered 2 cups snow peas 1 (15-ounce) can red beans, drained cayenne or hot sauce to taste, if desired 1. Prepare the rice first. In a 1-quart pot with a tight-fitting lid, toast the coconut over medium heat, stirring constantly just until it is golden, then add the water and salt. Increase heat to high. When the water is boiling, add the basmati rice, return to a boil, and cover tightly. Cook for 15 minutes, until all the water is absorbed. Fluff the rice with a fork, and let stand, off the heat, until time to serve. Do not add cashews. 2. For the curry, pour the coconut milk into a large sauté pan and add the white parts of the scallions, thyme, garlic, turmeric, allspice, salt and jalapeños or Scotch Bonnet, if using. Over medium-high heat, bring the coconut milk to a boil, then reduce to a vigorous simmer for about 2 minutes, until slightly thickened. Add the asparagus, radishes, snow peas and red beans. Return to a boil, and cook for about 2 minutes just until the vegetables are crisp-tender. 3. Taste for seasoning, add more salt or, if it is not hot enough, cayenne or hot sauce to taste. 4. Stir the cashews into the warm rice and serve 1⁄4 of the rice topped with 1⁄4 of the curry. Sprinkle with reserved scallion greens and serve. ■

LENTIL STUFFED PEPPERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 365 (109 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 5g); CHOL 25mg; SODIUM 636mg; CARB 46g; FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 20g

SPRING VEGETABLE QUESADILLAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 701 (254 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 14g); CHOL 54mg; SODIUM 1369mg; CARB 87g; FIBER 20g; PROTEIN 31g

CURRIED SPRING VEGETABLES W. RED BEANS & RICE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 590 (243 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 19g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 786mg; CARB 73g; FIBER 10g; PROTEIN 16g


JAMAICAN CURRIED SPRING VEGETABLES WITH RED BEANS AND COCONUT-CASHEW RICE

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Kick Up Your Chicken Spice up our nation’s most popular protein with international flair

I

f chicken is your go-to protein for countless meals, you’re not alone. In 2015, Americans consumed 90 pounds of the bird per person—that’s more chicken per capita than anywhere

else in the world, according to the National Chicken Council. You are probably also not alone in wondering about ways to prepare this popular poultry so that the message, “I’m thawing some chicken” doesn’t leave your dinner companions less than excited for the meal to come. Mixing it up with international flavors, the following recipes will add a little spice to both weeknights and weekends. —Mary Subialka

RECIPES COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL CHICKEN COUNCIL

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

30 real food spring 2017


CARIBBEAN ROAST CHICKEN WITH PINEAPPLE AND SWEET POTATOES (RECIPE PAGE 33)

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BRAZILIAN COCONUT-LIME CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES

32 real food spring 2017


Brazilian Coconut-Lime Chicken With Tomatoes

Caribbean Roast Chicken with Pineapple and Sweet Potatoes

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Sweet coconut dishes up classic Brazilian flavors paired with tangy tomatoes and a fresh taste of lime.

Slow down for a sweet and savory taste of the islands with this juicy bird.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 (6 ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut in half 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning 1 large sweet onion, diced 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced 8 whole garlic cloves, peeled 4 medium tomatoes, chopped (tomatoes can be seeded, if desired) 3⁄4 cup coconut milk 1⁄4 cup chicken stock (or broth) 2 green onions, sliced into thin rings 2 red chilies, sliced into thin rings 1⁄4 cup chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 4 cups cooked sticky rice 1⁄4 cup golden raisins 2 teaspoons freshly grated lime zest lime wedges for serving 1. Heat olive oil and butter over medium high heat in a 12- or 14-inch (high-sided) skillet. Sprinkle chicken with poultry seasoning and add to skillet. Brown for 2 minutes per side. Add onion, yellow pepper and garlic cloves. Reduce heat to medium; cover and cook for 10 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate. 2. Add tomatoes, coconut milk, chicken stock, green onion, red chilies, cilantro and lime juice to skillet and stir. Return chicken to pan and continue to cook for an additional 8 to 10 minutes until chicken has cooked through. 3. Cook rice according to package instructions and divide between 4 warmed dinner plates. Remove chicken and slice at an angle; place on top of rice. Stir raisins into tomato mixture and spoon onto chicken. Sprinkle with lime zest and serve extra lime wedges on the side.

1 2 1 3 8 1 3 ¼ 1 2

tablespoon brown sugar tablespoons Caribbean jerk seasoning spice mix whole chicken, giblets and neck removed limes sprigs cilantro (20-ounce) can chunk pineapple, drained reserving ½ cup of liquid sweet potatoes, cut into 2-inch chunks cup dark rum (or chicken stock) cup chicken stock tablespoons chopped cilantro

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a small bowl, combine brown sugar and jerk seasoning. Rub mixture all over outside of chicken. Cut one lime into quarters; insert into chicken cavity. Add cilantro sprigs to chicken cavity. Place chicken in roasting pan and surround with pineapple chunks. Place in oven and roast for 45 minutes. 3. While chicken is roasting, juice two remaining limes. Remove chicken from oven; add sweet potatoes, rum (or chicken stock), chicken stock, reserved liquid from pineapple and lime juice to pan. Return to oven and roast for another 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until internal temperature in thickest part of the thigh reaches 180°F. 4. Remove chicken from oven and place on sheet pan. Tent with foil to keep warm. Remove pineapple and sweet potatoes from pan and reserve. Pour sauce from pan into serving dish; add chopped cilantro. 5. To serve, carve chicken or place whole chicken on platter. Surround with sweet potato pineapple mixture and pass with sauce.

QUICK AND EASY ROTISSERIE CHICKEN Get a headstart on dinner. Stop by the deli and pick up a fully cooked rotisserie chicken that is perfect for countless dishes from dinner tonight to barbecued chicken sandwiches and pesto pizza or lettuce wraps. • The best time to pull apart and cut up the chicken to use in recipes is right when you bring it home. The skin peels off the bird and the meat comes off the bone much more easily when warm. • Rotisserie chickens typically yield 3 to 4 cups shredded or cut-up meat, which could provide enough meat for two or three meals, depending on the recipe. • Also, store-bought accompaniments can make a weeknight chicken dinner amazingly simple and delicious. Pick up some potatoes, veggies and other delicious sides also ready to grab and go in the deli.


Chicken and Pepper Enchiladas with Lime Cream Drizzle and Avocado Black Bean Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Avocado Black Bean Salad 2 ripe avocados, halved, pit removed and diced 16 cherry tomatoes, quartered 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 (15.5-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Lime Cream Drizzle ½ cup sour cream 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Enchiladas 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 4 boneless skinless chicken breast halves, cut crosswise into ¼-inch strips 1 red pepper, diced 1 poblano pepper, diced ½ cup diced Spanish onion ½ teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon chili powder ½ teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro ½ teaspoon adobo sauce ½ cup frozen corn 12 (6-inch) flour tortillas 1 (10-ounce) can enchilada sauce 1½ cups grated queso blanco cheese 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, for garnish 1. Make Avocado Black Bean Salad by combining all ingredients in medium bowl. Stir gently and reserve. 2. Make Lime Cream Drizzle by combining sour cream and lime juice in a small bowl. Reserve. 3. Preheat oven to 350°F. 4. In a sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil over medium heat. Add chicken strips and sauté until browned. Remove from pan and reserve. In same pan, add remaining tablespoon oil and heat. Add red peppers, poblano pepper, onion, cumin, chili powder, paprika and salt. Sauté until vegetables are soft, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add cilantro, adobo sauce and corn. Stir to heat through. Add reserved chicken and stir into vegetables. 5. Spray a large ovenproof baking dish (or two medium-sized dishes) with non-stick cooking spray. Spoon about ¼ cup chicken mixture onto each tortilla, roll and place in pan. Repeat with remaining tortillas. Enchiladas should be placed tightly in pan. Pour enchilada sauce over tortillas. Sprinkle with grated cheese. 6. Place in heated oven and bake until cheese is melted and enchiladas are heated through, about 20 to 25 minutes. 7. Serve 2 enchiladas per person. Drizzle with Lime Cream and garnish with chopped cilantro. Serve Avocado Black Bean Salad on the side.

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SAFE HANDLING • Freeze uncooked chicken if it is not to be used within 2 days. If properly packaged, frozen chicken will maintain top quality in a home freezer for up to 1 year. • Thaw chicken in the refrigerator or in cold water—not on the countertop. It takes about 24 hours to thaw a 4-pound chicken in the refrigerator. Cut-up parts, 3 to 9 hours. To thaw in water, place chicken in its original wrap or watertight plastic bag in cold water. Change water often. It takes about 2 hours to thaw a whole chicken. • For quick thawing, use the microwave. Thawing time will vary. • Always use a meat thermometer to make sure chicken is cooked to 165°F internal temperature. The color of cooked poultry is not a sure sign of its doneness.

WHOLE CHICKEN NATASHA BREEN - FOTOLIA.COM

This south-of-the-border favorite is packed with flavor and topped with a touch of lime cream sauce for added punch. A fresh salad of avocado with black beans provides the perfect accompaniment.


CHICKEN AND PEPPER ENCHILADAS WITH LIME CREAM DRIZZLE AND AVOCADO BLACK BEAN SALAD

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Greek Chicken Drumsticks MAKES 6 SERVINGS

The crowd-pleasing drumstick is infused with a medley of spices for a delightful change of pace.

BACON WRAPPED JALAPEÑO STUFFED CHICKEN THIGHS

Bacon Wrapped Jalapeño Stuffed Chicken Thighs MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Smoky bacon cozies up with chicken and a pop of pepper—and a touch of sweet and savory Honey Lime Cilantro Butter brings it all home. 4 8 1 16

jalapeño peppers, cut in half lengthwise, seeded boneless, skinless chicken thighs tablespoon lemon pepper thin slices smoked bacon

1 1 1 6 3 3

Honey Lime Cilantro Butter 12 ounces salted butter 1⁄3 cup honey 1 lime, zested and juiced 1⁄3 cup cilantro, chopped 1 tablespoon Italian parsley, chopped 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 1⁄4 teaspoon black pepper

NUTRITION

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Slice jalapeños in half lengthwise and remove seeds. Lay chicken thighs out flat and sprinkle the lemon pepper evenly over the inside part of the thighs. Tuck a 1⁄2 slice of jalapeño inside the part of the thigh where the bone was removed; repeat with remaining thighs. 3. Roll chicken meat around the jalapeño to make a package. Repeat with each thigh. 4. Wrap 2 slices of bacon around each of the chicken packages, making a plus sign (wrap 1 slice in one direction and wrap second slice in the opposite direction). 5. Place chicken bundles in a 9x13-inch baking pan and place uncovered in preheated oven. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven. 6. While chicken is baking make the butter sauce: Melt butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add honey and simmer 1 to 2 minutes or until butter has melted and honey has dissolved. Remove from heat and add lime zest, lime juice, chopped cilantro, chopped parsley, salt and pepper and stir to combine; keep warm. Place cooked chicken bundles onto a platter and pour the Honey Lime Cilantro Butter over each.

BRAZILIAN COCONUT-LIME CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 534 (184 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 11g); CHOL 60mg; SODIUM 84mg; CARB 62g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 27g

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CARIBBEAN ROAST CHICKEN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 371 (127 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 4g); CHOL 88mg; SODIUM 167mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 30g

2 12 2 1 1 1 1⁄2 1

CHICKEN & PEPPER ENCHILADAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 708 (313 from fat); FAT 36g (sat. 11g); CHOL 98mg; SODIUM 1731mg; CARB 56g; FIBER 13g; PROTEIN 42g

tablespoons olive oil chicken drumsticks medium onions, coarsely chopped cup coarsely chopped mushrooms cup coarsely chopped zucchini teaspoon Greek seasoning teaspoon ground cinnamon (103⁄4 ounce) can chicken broth, undiluted (103⁄4 ounce) can Clamato juice tablespoon flour (4 ounce) package feta cheese, crumbled cups hot cooked orzo tablespoons chopped black olives tablespoons fresh chopped parsley

1. Place oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken drumsticks and cook about 10 minutes or until brown on all sides. Add onion, mushrooms and zucchini; cook 2 minutes, stirring. Add Greek seasoning, cinnamon, chicken broth and Clamato juice; bring to a boil then lower heat to simmer. Cover with vent open and cook about 40 minutes or until fork can be inserted in chicken with ease. 2. Remove chicken from pan and keep warm. Return pan to high heat and boil liquid about 5 minutes or until reduced by half. Slowly add flour and cheese to pan, stirring until smooth. 3. Return chicken to pan and simmer 2 minutes. To serve, place orzo, prepared according to package instructions, on large platter, add chicken and pour sauce over all. Sprinkle with olives and parsley. ■

STUFFED CHICKEN THIGHS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 553 (394 from fat); FAT 45g (sat. 25g); CHOL 199mg; SODIUM 820mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 26g

GREEK CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 625 (202 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 7g); CHOL 173mg; SODIUM 1026mg; CARB 57g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 46g


GREEK CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS

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Sea Treasure Savor the flavor of delicious discoveries from the deep blue RECIPES BY BARTON SEAVER

EXCERPTS FROM TWO IF BY SEA, PUBLISHED IN 2016 BY STERLING EPICURE. TEXT © 2016 BY BARTON SEAVER. REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF STERLING PUBLISHING CO., INC. 38 real food spring 2017


NEW ORLEANS BBQ SHRIMP (RECIPE PAGE 44)

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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T

here is a rich world of seafood to discover beyond the familiar fish. Whether you are well versed in preparing fish or looking to “test the waters” with this low-calorie, nutrient-rich protein, it is easy to mix it up with a

variety of cooking techniques. With recipes that work equally well for many different fish, you can find inspiration at the seafood counter and explore the options from appetizers to entrées that accentuate rather than overpower the flavors of seafood and share in the greatest joy of cooking—gathering around the table.

Smoked Trout Puffs MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Place a platter of these smoky pastries on the table, along with glasses of iced white vermouth, to help guests settle into the meal. It’s one of those dishes that’s unexpected yet familiar and very sophisticated. The dough can be made ahead of time and baked straight from the freezer. Easy entertaining, right? ½ ½ 8 1¼

cup water cup sour cream or Greek yogurt tablespoons (1 stick) butter cups flour salt, to taste freshly ground pepper-allspice, to taste (See Cook’s Note) 6 eggs 8 ounces smoked trout, skin removed and meat flaked 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

1. Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the sour cream and butter and simmer until melted. Reduce the heat to low and add the flour. Season with salt and pepper-allspice. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough is smooth, slightly elastic, and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the dough to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or continue stirring by hand with the wooden spoon). 2. Add the eggs, one at a time, stirring constantly to make sure each egg is incorporated before adding the next. Don’t fret if the dough separates—continued mixing will bring it back together. Gently fold in the trout and dill, taking care not to mash the fish. 3. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 4. Using two small spoons, drop tablespoons of dough about 2 inches apart on the lined baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes and then crack open the oven door and bake until the puffs are golden brown and separate easily from the lined pan, about 5 minutes more. Serve warm. Cook’s Note: To make pepper-allspice, simply mix equal parts of pepper and allspice and add to a regular pepper grinder. I feel that, in general, pepper alone competes with the clarity of fresh seafood. But I have found that when you pair it with warm, beguiling allspice, pepper’s aggressive tones are softened into an incredibly elegant accent. When mixed in equal parts with pepper and freshly ground, allspice calms the tone of pepper and implies a hint of the exotic. Use this pairing beyond seafood—you’ll find it adds a welcome twist to all of your cooking.

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Fish School Whether you prefer mild and flaky or meaty and dense, there is a fish in the sea for you. Within categories, fish are often interchangeable in recipes so see what mood strikes when you are at the seafood counter. Flaky White Fish Generally mild flavored, fish in this category include: Catfish, cod, haddock, halibut, Pollock and tilapia. Round Fish /Fillet Fish Also thought of as pan fish, the texture of these fish is more taut than the flaky white fish. Often these are served with their skin on. Mediumflavored fish include: Black bass, perch, pike and redfish. Full-flavored fish include: Grouper, mackerel, snappers, tilefish and yellowtail. Meaty Dense Fish This group requires slow cooking due to dense texture. Fish include: Monkfish, striped bass and sturgeon. Orange-Fleshed Fish This is the salmon category. Almost all salmon, trout and char are interchangeable in recipes. Fish include: Arctic char, salmon (chum, coho, farmed, king, pink, sockeye) and trout. Steak Fishes Typically very large fish, these are best suited for grilling or broiling. Fish include: Albacore tuna, bonito tuna, red tuna, mahimahi, swordfish and wahoo.


SMOKED TROUT PUFFS

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Fish School: Poaching Both delicate and more robustly flavored varieties of seafood benefit from poaching. There are two ways to poach. With shallow poaching, seafood is partially submerged in a gently flavored broth, which is then reduced and used as a sauce. Deep-poach cooking requires seafood to be fully submerged in a very flavorful liquid. An accompanying sauce is made separately. Deep poaching seafood, especially if chilled in the broth to fully develop the flavor before serving, is a great way to prepare a dish for serving chilled or at room temperature.

Deep-Poached Halibut with Green Goddess Dressing

Green Goddess Dressing

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The best of both worlds—creamy and bright with herbs—Green Goddess Dressing is wonderful over vegetables or as an accompaniment to grilled, broiled, slow-roasted or deep-poached seafood.

This recipe is best for flaky white-fleshed fish, orangefleshed fish or shellfish. (Photo page 2.) Poaching Liquid 1 part red or white wine 1 part red or white wine vinegar 3 parts water Seasoning 4 fresh thyme sprigs 1 garlic clove zest of 1 orange 5 to 6 juniper berries 1 bay leaf salt, to taste

MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS

1 1 1 ½

(2-ounce) can oil-packed anchovies bunch watercress, trimmed bunch tarragon, leaves only bunch parsley, leaves only juice of 1 lemon salt, to taste 1 cup Classic Aioli (recipe below) or mayonnaise

1. Combine all ingredients, except the aioli, in a food processor and purée until mostly smooth and bright green. Let sit at least 1 hour (and up to overnight in the refrigerator) to allow flavors to meld. Add the aioli and pulse to combine.

11⁄2 pounds halibut

Classic Aioli

Salad 2 apples, shaved 2 bulbs of fennel, shaved 8 sliced radishes 8 tablespoons torn parsley leaves

MAKES ABOUT 1½ TO 2½ CUPS

1. Combine wine, vinegar, water, fresh thyme sprigs, garlic clove, orange zest, juniper berries and bay leaf in a large pot (enough to cover fish). Season with salt. Heat over medium-high heat until 180°F. 2. Season the fish lightly with salt on all sides and add to the poaching liquid. Reduce the heat to low. Use a thermometer to maintain the heat between 165°F and 175°F. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes per inch of thickness. 3. Remove the fish from the cooking liquid. If the skin has been left on, gently remove it by using a fish spatula. Discard the skin. 4. Spread about 2 tablespoons Green Goddess Dressing on each plate (recipe at right). Assemble the salad ingredients and arrange the salad on the plates. Place the fish atop the sauce and salad.

1 egg yolk 1 large garlic clove, grated 1½ teaspoons sherry vinegar

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Aioli is my mother sauce, one that I add to so many dishes in place of jarred mayonnaise. No matter how you season your aioli, it’s important to use very fresh garlic, as any bruised or aging cloves can lend an unpleasantly pronounced spicy zing. 2 teaspoons salt 1 to 2 cups vegetable oil 1 tablespoon water

1. Combine the egg yolk, garlic, vinegar and salt in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Place the bowl on a damp towel or have someone hold it for you to keep it steady. While whisking, slowly drizzle in the oil (start with 1 cup) until the sauce emulsifies and thickens to desired consistency. As it thickens, add the water a few drops at a time (this will thin the aioli so that it can take more oil). Continue drizzling and whisking until all the oil has been incorporated. Yes, your arm may be a little tired, but this is definitely worth the effort. Aioli keeps in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. 2. If adding herbs to the aioli, simply stir in the chopped herbs after all of the oil has been added. Use herbed aioli within a day, though the herbs can be added to a classic aioli at any time.


Fish School: Sautéing The first rule of a good sauté is to leave the pan alone. When cooking in a sauté pan, the only form of heat is through direct contact with the pan. The more you flip and turn, the less you are actually cooking. The benefit of sautéing is you can create a delicate, lightly seared flavor that heightens the seafood’s original taste. (But too much of this sear can be detrimental.)

Sautéed Creole Catfish

Fennel Coleslaw

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This recipe is best for flaky white fish, mild to medium, and full-flavored fillet fish as well as orange-fleshed fish.

Fennel reigns supreme in my seafood cooking. Its cool, crisp character is well complemented by the dressing’s sweet vinegar and sexy herbs. If you don’t have white balsamic vinegar, you can substitute ¼ cup white wine vinegar mixed with 2 teaspoons sugar.

4 6-ounce Catfish fillets, skin on (if available) 3 tablespoons Creole Seasoning (recipe page 44) 2 tablespoons peanut oil 2 tablespoons butter 1 lemon, cut in half 1. Slice the fish on a bias into ½-inch-thick pieces. Season one side generously with Creole Seasoning. 2. Heat peanut oil and butter over medium heat until the butter begins to bubble. Place lemon halves and fish, seasoned side down, into the hot pan. 3. Cook the fish on one side until the flesh is opaque almost all the way through, about 4 minutes. Turn fish and cook 1 minute more. 4. Remove from the heat, and serve, seasoned side up, with seared lemon over Fennel Coleslaw (recipe at right).

1½ pounds fennel, very thinly sliced salt ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons sour cream 2 tablespoons Classic Aioli (recipe page 42) or mayonnaise 2 tablespoons chopped chives 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon 1. Put the fennel in a colander set over a bowl or in the sink, season generously with salt, and toss well. Let sit for 20 minutes. 2. In a separate bowl, combine the vinegar, sour cream, aioli, chives and tarragon. 3. Gently squeeze the fennel to remove any excess moisture. Add the fennel to the dressing and toss to coat. Let sit at least 20 minutes (and up to 1 day, refrigerated) before serving.

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New Orleans BBQ Shrimp MAKES 4 SERVINGS

On a recent trip to New Orleans, I fell hard for these shrimp and ate them at nearly every meal (breakfast included!). Yes, it’s incredibly rich, but just as sometimes the party is worth the hangover, these delectable shrimp merit a little butter on your chin. I prefer the 16–20 size shrimp, though larger or smaller are equally good, but I do insist that you use fresh, wild-caught Gulf shrimp (if available). Adjust the cooking time by a few minutes in either direction to accommodate a difference in size.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

That’s not a typo! This recipe breaks from tradition, substituting sweet crab for smoky bacon, but the result is just as creamy and satisfying as ever. 1 pound linguine salt, for pasta cooking water 1 cup white wine 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 strips lemon zest 2 teaspoons freshly ground pepperallspice (See Cook’s Note page 32) 2 cups half-and-half 4 large egg yolks 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped tarragon or chervil 1 pound crab meat, picked

3 pounds Gulf shrimp, heads and shells on salt 1 lemon, halved 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) butter, divided 2 tablespoons Creole Seasoning (recipe below) 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1 cup white wine ½ cup Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 bay leaves 4 sprigs fresh tarragon 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 1. Season the shrimp lightly with salt. Heat a large, heavy skillet over high heat until smoking hot, then add the lemon halves, cut sides down, and the shrimp to the dry pan. Cook for 1 minute, then remove all the shrimp and lemon from the pan. 2. Allow the pan to cool down, then add 8 tablespoons (1 stick) of the butter, the Creole Seasoning and garlic, and cook over medium heat until the butter is just melted. Add the wine, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar and bay leaves. Return the shrimp to the pan and bring to a boil. Cook until the shrimp are cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter, tarragon and chopped parsley and toss to combine. Serve immediately with the lemon halves (and plenty of napkins).

Creole Seasoning MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

This is really a pretty straightforward recipe. Buy good spices, use them often, and throw them away if they’ve been sitting around for too long. This is also good with burgers or grilled chicken. 2 tablespoons salt 1½ tablespoons smoked sweet paprika 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon onion powder 1 tablespoon garlic powder

Pasta Crabonara

2 teaspoons ground mustard powder 1 teaspoon crushed dried chile pepper, such as Nora or árbol 1 teaspoon ground mace 1 teaspoon ground allspice

1. Cook the linguine in a large pot of boiling salted water to al dente, according to the package instructions. Drain the pasta, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking water for the sauce. 2. In the same pot, combine the wine, thyme, lemon zest and pepper-allspice, and bring to a boil. Cook until the smell of alcohol has dissipated, about 3 minutes. Add the halfand-half, and simmer for 5 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolks in a small bowl. While whisking, slowly add a ladleful of the simmering sauce to temper the yolks. Reduce the heat to low, add the yolk mixture to the sauce, and cook, stirring continuously, until it begins to thicken, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped parsley and tarragon, crab meat, and reserved pasta cooking water. Check the seasoning and adjust if needed. Bring the sauce to a simmer, add the pasta, and cook until the sauce is thickened and the pasta well coated, 4 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately. ■

NUTRITION

1. Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and stir well. This mix can be kept for up to 3 to 4 weeks sealed and stored in a cool, dark place.

SMOKED TROUT PUFFS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 660 (383 from fat); FAT 43g (sat. 22g); CHOL 415mg; SODIUM 636mg; CARB 32g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 34g

DEEP-POACHED HALIBUT W. SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 374 (143 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 2g); CHOL 92mg; SODIUM 448mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 33g

44 real food spring 2017

SAUTÉED CREOLE CATFISH: PER SERVING: CALORIES 341 (211 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 7g); CHOL 115mg; SODIUM 1067mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 28g

FENNEL SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 116 (62 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 2g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 79mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 2g

BBQ SHRIMP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 566 (311 from fat); FAT 35g (sat. 22g); CHOL 481mg; SODIUM 1436mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 50g

PASTA CRABONARA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 784 (165 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 10g); CHOL 192mg; SODIUM 912mg; CARB 107g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 42g


PASTA CRABONARA

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46 real food spring 2017


Creative Charcuterie Savory cured meats for everything from fabulous hors d’oeuvres to the main course RECIPES BY CHARLES WEKSELBAUM

T

he intriguing selection of meats served atop sumptuous charcuterie boards at trendy restaurants is easy to create at home. The deli is

brimming with deliciously savory salamis, cured hams and pâtés that work well as a “nibbler” plate for family and friends; you just need to know what makes a great board—and we’ll walk you through it. When creating a charcuterie board, your affinity for certain meats, cheeses and flavors will play a major role in your selection, notes Charles Wekselbaum, author of Cured: Handcrafted Charcuterie and More, but there are a number of elements to bring it all together for a delicious mix of tastes and textures. Wekselbaum, who makes charcuterie for his New York-based Charlito’s Cocina, also shows how these meats can add a wonderful element to the main course. —Mary Subialka

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Family-Styled Noodles MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I love noodles. The reason I don’t eat them as often as I crave them is that they are so filling and tend to weigh me down if I overdo it. This dish provides the simple solution: While the noodles are the foundation of the dish, they don’t make up the majority of the plate. In this case, abundant greens, crunchy chickpea crisps, and just enough protein give this dish a variety of textures and flavors that satisfy without becoming too heavy. Pair with a medium-bodied aromatic white, such as a dry Riesling.

There are so many variables in making a great charcuterie board. How many meats should you choose? What about cheeses, veggies and accompaniments? Should you put bread on the plate or on the side? Should everything fit onto one large board or should each component have its own, smaller board? The truth is, there really isn’t a wrong answer here. The opportunity to be creative is one of the best parts of assembling a charcuterie board. Because most of the components are prepared ahead of time, creating a charcuterie board is an exercise in the art of arrangement. Here are some tips to help you balance delicious flavor on your charcuterie board with visual and textural interest as well as examples of quantities to serve 8 to 10 people. Keep it simple: Don’t overthink this! Great individual components will speak for themselves. Quality cured meats and great cheeses don’t lie. Too many accoutrements can be a distraction. Make it abundant: Abundance is a sign of welcome. I know that these ingredients can be expensive, but it’s so important to serve your guests in a way that lets them feel confident about partaking in the board without sacrificing someone else’s share. Make sure that everyone can have at least a few bites. Present at least three meats: One way to think about this is to have at least one simple meat, one mild but spiced meat, and one spicy meat. Normally I like to have at least five meats on my boards. For example, 6 ounces of each: Mild chorizo, salami with beer, campo seco (sliced into rounds), salami picante (sliced lengthwise) and prosciutto. Present at least three cheeses: There are so many ways to go about this. You can choose one soft, one medium and one hard cheese; or one cow, one goat and one sheep cheese. Explore flavors and textures. For example, 5 ounces of Brie or Camembert-style cheese (left whole with serving utensils), semi-firm sheep’s milk cheese (sliced into triangles), blue cheese (left whole), firm goat’s milk cheese (broken into bite-size chunks). continued on page 50

cloves fresh garlic, chopped ounces oyster mushrooms, coarsely chopped cup fresh arugula cup pea shoots (when in season) cup fresh radicchio fresh basil leaves sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed from stem ounces bucatini (or thick noodles of choice) soft poached egg to 3 tablespoons vinegar olive oil salt, to taste 5 thin slices of dry-cured lomo (See Editor’s Note)

For Chickpea Crisp ¼ cup chickpea flour ¼ cup water pinch of salt 1 teaspoon olive oil 1. Sauté garlic and mushrooms and set aside. 2. Prepare salad by combining arugula, pea shoots, radicchio, basil and thyme. Set aside. 3. Boil pasta in well-salted water and cook until al dente. When finished, drain and toss in olive oil, mushrooms, garlic and salt to taste. Set aside. 4. For Chickpea Crisps, combine chickpea flour, water and salt. Stir until smooth with no lumps. Stir in the olive oil, and allow to rest for 5 to 10 minutes. 5. While the chickpea dough is resting, poach the egg in simmering water with 2 to 3 tablespoons vinegar (the vinegar will keep the egg from breaking), for 1 to 2 minutes, making sure not to overcook the egg. The idea is to cook the white, and leave the yolk runny. Set aside and reserve for plating. 6. On a well-oiled, hot skillet, make a chickpea “pancake,” as thin as you can without breaking it. Cook until golden brown and flip. Cook the other side until golden brown. 7. In a large bowl meant for sharing, plate the pasta on one-third, the salad on one-third, and the lomo on onethird, nestling the chickpea crisp vertically between the pasta and the salad. Top the pasta with the poached egg, a sprinkle of salt, and a drizzle of olive oil. Editor’s Note: If dry-cured lomo is not available, try prosciutto as a substitute.

IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHYFIRM - FOTOLIA.COM

Building a Fantastic Charcuterie Board

3 4 ½ ½ ½ 6 2 12 1 2


FAMILY-STYLED NOODLES

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Charcuterie Board continued from page 48

Vary the way you cut: If you slice one salami into rounds, slice the others lengthwise or on a strong bias. With cheese, if you’ve sliced a hard cheese into triangles, try serving a soft cheese whole with a serving utensil on the board. Not only does this look beautiful, but it helps people differentiate between items on the board. Present at least one sweet element: At Charlito’s Cocina, we created fruit “salamis” expressly for this purpose. In the absence of a fruit “salami,” you can use dried fruit, preserves such as fig jam or mostardas. Don’t skimp on the bread: If you have access to really great bread, use it. Great bread will enhance everything on the board and make all the elements shine. For example, to serve 8 to 10 use: 1 whole-wheat baguette (warmed whole, then sliced on the bias), 1 classic baguette (warmed whole then sliced in rounds) and plantain chips.

If you’re feeling ambitious, use a variation on bread: Gnocco frito (puffy fried mini-bread from Italy), chickpea flatbread, plantain chips, mini-popovers and homemade crackers are all tasty ideas. Incorporate one crunchy element if possible: Toasted walnuts, homemade potato chips or chicharrons are all great options. For example: 2 cups freshly toasted walnuts. Be careful to keep it from looking too manicured: A slightly relaxed presentation makes the board seem more inviting. You might want to layer some slices of meat in one section of the board, and “pile” slices in a different section. Divide the platter into three sections, arranging the meats within the largest third of the platter; the cheese within one of the smaller sections, and fig jam and walnuts in the smallest third. Serve bread and plantain chips in a separate basket beside the board. Know your crowd: Are your guests comfortable gobbling down a ½ inch piece of salami without hesitation? If so, thickly handcut your meats! Don’t be shy. Slicing thin isn’t the only way. On the flip side, is it a leaner, more delicate crowd? If so, show off those thin slicing skills. Just make sure you have a very sharp knife.

Don’t be afraid to serve whole-wheat or multigrain bread: Aside from their health benefits, whole-wheat and multigrain breads add additional dimensions of flavor. Nutty, earthy, wholesome—these are all good things.

Cut meats and cheeses as close to serving time as possible; otherwise, they’ll dry out. Keep soft cheeses whole and serve with a utensil for self-service. It’s fine to serve all the cheeses like that if you prefer.

IMAGE CASANISA - FOTOLIA.COM

Warm the bread: A cast-iron skillet is great for this. If you have a press to weigh down the bread, even better. If the bread isn’t super-fresh and delicious, grilling or toasting will really turn it around. The warmth from the bread will open up the multitudes of flavors in a tasty salami.

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Queens County Market Sandwich MAKES 4 SANDWICHES

Out of all the sandwich varieties that we serve at our markets, this is my favorite. We only make it at one market, once a month—the Queens County Market. All the soul packed into this sandwich is compounded when it’s done on freshly baked Cuban bread. Take the time to make the Cuban bread at home, if you can. Done right, it will be worth every second of the two or three hours it takes to make. I like this sandwich cold, but you can always take it a step further and give it a press, leaving you with a crunchy exterior and a soft inside. Pair with a light red wine, such as Carignan, Grenache or Pinot Noir. For Bread 1 packet active, dry yeast 2 teaspoons sugar 1¼ cups warm water 2 cups bread flour (you can substitute 2 cups all-purpose flour) 2 cups all-purpose flour 3 teaspoons salt ¼ cup lard

For Filling 1 fig “salami,” peeled (you can substitute fig jam if you don’t have fig “salami”) 8 ounces fresh ricotta 8 ounces dry-cured chorizo, sliced 4 handfuls arugula

NUTRITION

1. For the Cuban Bread: Preheat the oven to 450°F, with a pan of water in the oven. The pan of water will help create humidity in the oven, which is very beneficial for bread baking. 2. “Wake up” the yeast by mixing together the sugar, ¼ cup of lukewarm water, and the dry yeast. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes, or until a frothiness develops on the top (like what you’d see in a glass of beer). 3. While the yeast wakes up, sift the flour and salt together in a mixing bowl. Set aside. 4. Heat the lard in a saucepan until just melted. Remove from heat, and add the remaining cup of lukewarm water to the lard. 5. Add the lard mixture to the yeast mixture and combine. 6. Slowly add the dry ingredients (flour and salt) to the wet ingredients (water, yeast, lard), making sure to stir continuously. Reserve a little bit of flour for rolling out the dough. 7. Knead until the dough is elastic and smooth, about 15 minutes by hand, or 4 to 5 minutes in an electric mixer outfitted with a dough hook. 8. Once smooth, place the dough into a lightly greased bowl covered with a towel. Let it rise in a dark, room-temperature space for 1 hour. 9. When the dough has risen, roll out the dough to ¾ inch on a lightly floured surface. Rolled-out dough should be about 12 inches wide by 18 inches long (a little less than the diagonal length of your approximately 13x18-inch baking sheet). 10. Roll the dough into a tight cylinder. Gently taper the ends by pinching and folding them under to form the loaf. 11. Lay the loaf, seam-side down, on the diagonal of a baking sheet (this will ensure the longest loaf possible). Score the top with a razor blade or a sharp knife, first vertically down the middle of the loaf, then horizontally across the middle of the loaf. You should end up with a scored cross. 12. Loosely cover and leave to rise again in a dark place at around room temperature for about another hour, until your loaf is 2 to 3 times its original size. 13. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown. 14. For the Filling: Slice the bread open, making sure not to slice all the way through, so you can “fold” the sandwich back together. 15. Smear the fig “salami” on the bread. Next spread the ricotta on the bread. Next layer the chorizo. Finally, pack the arugula in the sandwich, fold closed, and serve. FAMILY-STYLED NOODLES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 500 (79 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 2g); CHOL 57mg; SODIUM 540mg; CARB 81g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 23g

QUEENS COUNTY MARKET SANDWICH: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1086 (396 from fat); FAT 44g (sat. 18g); CHOL 91mg; SODIUM 2528mg; CARB 135g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 37g

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Domestic Goddish

Daphne Oz on how celebrating with food can be a daily way of life BY TARA Q. THOMAS If you’ve ever tuned into ABC’s The Chew, you know why Daphne Oz would name her latest book The Happy Cook. She’s the ever-cheerful one, using her charm and indefatigable good nature to cajole her co-stars Mario Batali, Carla Hall, Clinton Kelly and Michael Symon into admitting that healthful food can, in fact, taste really, really good. As the daughter of Dr. Oz, a cardiovascular surgeon best known for his role as television evangelist for health, her focus isn’t surprising. The eldest of four kids, Oz started advocating for healthy eating before she even went to college, helping her father launch HealthCorps, a nonprofit focused on teaching teens how to take care of themselves through food and exercise. While a student at Princeton University, she wrote The Dorm Room Diet Diet, a best-selling guide to maneuvering through college without putting on the “freshman 15.” That led to her first television appearances, from Good Morning America to The Rachel Ray Show. Clearly, she was a natural behind the camera. When ABC sent out an open casting call for The Chew, Oz was one of 300 people who showed up—and she got the job. The show debuted in September 2011, and has been nominated for a Daytime Emmy Award five times since with two wins. Oz, meanwhile, has continued to write and lecture on healthy eating as well as study. In 2013, she completed a culinary degree from The Natural Gourmet Institute, a school devoted to the art of healthful cooking in New York City that spawned chefs such as Amanda Cohen, of the highly acclaimed New York City vegetarian restaurant Dirt Candy, and Cara Mangini, the Ohiobased author of The Vegetable Butcher. Yet, she admits, while the love of food came naturally, the healthy part was hard won. “I loved food maybe too much,” she tells me over the phone one fall morning. “I didn’t know how to eat in moderation; by the time my dad got home from surgery and we sat down to dinner I’d already eaten maybe a

day’s worth of calories.” At 17, she was carrying 180 pounds on her 5’8” frame, and she wasn’t happy about it. And college, with its all-you-can-eat buffets, late nights and erratic schedules, did not seem like the easiest place to shed weight. But Oz quickly realized she wasn’t alone in this challenge, and set about creating an approach that felt as healthy mentally as it did physically. “The The Dorm Room Diet was me writing for my peers about how to lose 40 pounds but not give up the college experience,” she says. The emphasis wasn’t so much on “diet” as it was on finding balance, she explains. The T he Happy Cook came about from a similar urge to maintain a healthy balance, she says. “Now that I have kids and a husband, the question for me is, ‘How do I not lose sight of what gives me so much joy and fun, and lets me make every meal a celebration?’” That’s a taller order than most of us working parents can muster; “joy and fun” seem like a pipe dream during many a weeknight dinner preparation. Oz, however, had excellent role models. The original “happy cooks,” she says, are her mother and grandmother, to which she dedicates the book. They set the bar for her in the kitchen—not just in how well they cooked, but also in their attitude. “We were four children, and my grandmother had six children,” Oz says. “Our get-togethers were these epically amazing, crazy hungry hordes around the table. Between the two [matriarchs], they had 10 kids. They could have easily seen [cooking] as another chore, but they saw it as liberation—a way to have fun, relax, learn a new skill, try something new.” At the same time, she admits, sustaining such a positive engagement isn’t always easy. “I get a lot of questions from moms about how to find time to cook, and I am truthful about it: There are only 24 hours in the day, and I don’t do all the things I’d like to be doing—like I don’t go to the gym as much spring 2017 real food 53


isn’t just a result of sticking to easy recipes or of pushing yourself to make challenging ones; it’s a matter of getting in touch with your taste buds.” —Daphne Oz

PHOTOS AND RECIPE REPRINTED FROM THE HAPPY COOK BY DAPHNE OZ. COPYRIGHT © 2016 BY DAPHNE OZ. REPRINTED BY PERMISSION OF WILLIAM MORROW, AN IMPRINT OF HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS.

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have three sauté pans going on the stove,” she says, “and I also don’t feel like cleaning it up. But you can achieve lots with more passive time. Braising, roasting—these long, slow methods coax out deep flavors.” In a recipe like her Bolognese sauce, a long, gentle simmer also allows her to get away with using lean ground turkey instead of beef without giving up flavor. Oz also makes good use of Sundays, making components to store for dinners later in the week. “Lentils, bulgur, brown rice, quinoa—I make these on Sunday night, and then I have a base for salads, grain bowls, frittatas all week— because even if it takes only 20 minutes to cook the grain, if it’s the one more thing you have to do during the week, you might not have time to do it.” If the quinoa is already cooked, she can have her quinoa-feta salad on the table in a matter of minutes. Another tip: “Whenever I turn on the oven, I put in two of everything—two roast chickens, two lasagnas, two trays of roast vegetables,” she says. “Lasagna, you can put in the freezer. The second chicken, you can take the meat off the bone, use it in samosas. If I’m making a mess anyway, I might as well get double the results from it.” Wait a minute—did she just say “samosas”? How does making little packets of doughwrapped goodness fit into a relaxed approach to cooking? Oz laughs. “Throwing anything into a crispy, crunchy package makes it great,” she points out. And, thanks to the culinary influences of her Turkish dad and family trips to Istanbul, she has no fear of phyllo dough; in fact, for her, it’s a blank canvas, ready to fill with endless possibilities (not to mention leftovers). She hopes her recipe will inspire readers to give it a try. “I wanted to show how fun it can be whether you’re a novice or a great cook,” she says. Her recipe in Happy Cook calls for ground chicken, but diced leftovers can work, too, and if phyllo seems too daunting, she points out that frozen puff pastry or empanada dough make fine substitutes—or, she tells me, you could even just spoon the chicken into lettuce leaves to serve. Seasoned with a couple of her favorite condiments—harissa and apricot jam—for a sweet-smoky heat, and baked instead of fried to reduce both hassle and calories, the samosas offer a knock-out way to fancy up chicken. Plus, she reminds me, “They are meant to be as good for you as they taste.” And did I mention that they can be cooked ahead and reheated to serve, too? Score. ■

PHOTOS AMY NEUNSINGER

“Becoming a great cook

as I’d like to, and my inbox is always overflowing.” For Oz, learning to let go of some things is key to maintaining happiness in the kitchen. “Truthfully, [cooking] relaxes me,” she says. “I don’t let it feel like a pressure.” This attitude, in fact, gives rise to one of the most brilliant ideas in the entire book. In Oz’s view, as attractive as the idea of a domestic goddess is, “slinking around the kitchen in a silky dress, licking spatulas of frosting and swooning over the perfect crown roast,” it’s a heck of a lot more fun to be “domestic goddish.” “This is so important,” Oz stresses. “We watch a lot of professional chefs on TV, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed with the idea that we have to be as good as what we see.” Oz, though she’s one of those TV chefs, would rather you take them as inspiration, not direction. “I want you to look and feel great in the kitchen but not get too wrapped up in trying to be perfect,” she says. “It robs the job of fun if you’re all about following the lines.” How do you do this if you don’t naturally gravitate to the kitchen? Start by figuring out what you like, she suggests. “Becoming a great cook isn’t just a result of sticking to easy recipes or of pushing yourself to make challenging ones; it’s a matter of getting in touch with your taste buds,” she says. “The best cooks I know are not making massive flavor experiments but are playing with tiny flavor shifts, because they know what their taste buds are like,” she says. She encourages people to taste as they go, and honor their taste preferences. She has also designed many of her recipes to be simple in flavor and preparation, accessible for a wide variety of palates, but easily augmented with a sauce or side that adds texture and more flavor—like the snow pea slaw that adds crunch to her crab cakes, or the charred jalapeño chimichurri she used to add zing to pan-fried calamari. Oz also advises stocking up on quality condiments and fresh herbs. “With fresh herbs, you can make a quick gremolata, pestos or a compound butter you can rub under a roast chicken skin or spread on waffles,” she says.“And quality condiments have a lot of flavor already cooked into them—they can really upgrade basic meals.” Harissa, a North African chile pepper paste, is one of her favorites—a spoonful rubbed into a roast chicken is a quick way to take the bird in a more interesting direction. She also ascribes to what she calls the “set it and forget it” approach. “I don’t have time to


Harissa and Mint Chicken Samosas MAKES 12 SAMOSAS

The angel on your shoulder tells you to go for the ground chicken, but the devil on your shoulder reminds you that taste is king— what do you do? Make these chicken samosas. They stay light but flavorful with a blend of breast and thigh meat (your butcher can freshly grind the combination for you), and extra juicy with plenty of smoky-spicy harissa, sweet-sour apricots and fresh herbs. Wrap it all up in buttered phyllo dough and you have a present for your taste buds. If you don’t feel like fighting with papery thin sheets of phyllo, a simple puff pastry or empanada dough will work great to form delightful chicken dumplings that you can bake or fry. Samosas 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds 1 large red onion, finely chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt 8 dried apricots, finely chopped 1 teaspoon ground cumin (preferably from toasted whole seeds; see Cook’s Note) 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1⁄2 teaspoon ground coriander 3⁄4 pound ground chicken, made from skinless thighs and breasts (ask your butcher to grind it fresh for you—don’t be shy!) 1 tablespoon apricot jam (optional) heaping 2 tablespoons harissa paste 1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh mint or cilantro stems (save the leaves for the dipping sauce) 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted 9 (9x14-inch) sheets phyllo dough, thawed Dipping Sauce 1⁄2 cup yogurt 1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro or mint leaves (or a combination of the two) 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1⁄2 teaspoon honey (optional) 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin (preferably from toasted whole seeds; see Cook’s Note) 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt 1. To make the samosas, in a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and when they begin to sizzle, stir in the onion and 1⁄2 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring often, until the onion softens and browns around the edges, 5 to 6 minutes. Continuing to stir, add the apricots and cook another 2 minutes. Stir in the cumin, turmeric and coriander and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. 2. Crumble the chicken into the pan and add the remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Cook, using a wooden spoon to stir and break up the chicken, until the chicken is cooked through, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the chicken mixture to a medium bowl. Stir in the apricot jam (if using) and harissa

and set aside to cool slightly, then refrigerate until completely chilled. You can speed this process along if you spread the mixture out into a thin layer on a baking sheet before refrigerating. 3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 4. Stir the mint or cilantro stems into the chicken mixture. Turn the chicken mixture onto a cutting board and finely chop it into small bits (or pulse it in a food processor). 5. Set the melted butter next to a work surface. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Place 3 sheets of phyllo dough on the work surface, one on top of the other. Brush some of the melted butter on the top sheet—just enough to thinly coat the phyllo. With the long side nearest to you, slice the phyllo into 4 equal strips (3 to 4 inches wide). Place about 2 tablespoons of filling at the lower end of a strip and fold the bottom up over the filling as though you are folding a flag. For the next fold, angle the left corner up toward the right side to make a triangle, then turn the triangle up to the left. Continue to fold until the samosa is completely wrapped in a triangle shape. Repeat with the remaining 3 strips, then brush each samosa all over with more melted butter, using the butter to “glue” any rough edges or corners together. Place the samosas on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining sheets of phyllo and remaining filling. 6. Bake the samosas for about 25 minutes, or until they are golden brown, turning the baking sheet midway through cooking. Set them aside to cool. 7. To make the dipping sauce, in a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt, herbs, lime juice, honey (if using), cumin and salt. Serve with the samosas. Cook’s Note: FRESHLY GROUND SPICES Ground cumin works fine in this recipe, but if you want to grind some fresh, it’s pretty easy and adds a bright flavor that sometimes gets lost in packaged spices. Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and toast, shaking the pan often, until they smell fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium plate to cool, then pulverize in a spice grinder. Toasted cumin can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark and draft-free spot for up to 3 months.

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pairings

Time for Torrontés Uncork the fresh taste of Argentina’s signature white wine BY MARY SUBIALKA

L

ooking for an alternative to your usual Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc? Torrontés is the hottest thing to come out of Argentina since Malbec and is certainly worth a try. It’s also a bit fun to say: “tor-ron-TESS.” Argentina’s signature white wine, Torrontés is generally lighter in style than Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. It is floral and fruity with distinctive peach, apricot and a touch of citrus, yet still quite dry with a smooth texture and mouthfeel. Usually made without oak aging, it is bottled early and best consumed within a year or so after its release. Torrontés is produced in Mendoza, Argentina’s preeminent wine region, but the finest examples come from farther north, in the La Rioja province, and better still, from high in the foothills of the Andes in the Salta province. Enjoy Torrontés with a range of food from mild to strong cheeses and smoked meats. Its freshness complements Chinese, Indian and Thai fare and spicy Mexican dishes with guacamole. It also pairs well with chicken, seafood, shellfish and sushi. Citrus fruit (especially lemon) harmonizes with Torrontés, so a squeeze of lemon atop that fish or chicken would make a great match even better. ■

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Spring 2017