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SPRING 2015

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egg From soufflés to pizza, eggs add richness and protein to every dish

KIMCHI AND GRUYÈRE PIZZA (RECIPE PAGE 32)

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FREE

BRAZILIAN FLAIR: BBQ reimagined SLOW & STEADY: Savory slow cooker combinations CHOCOLATE: The beloved confection is king of sweets

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Making A Difference Physician changes lives inside and outside the clinic. CONGRATULATIONS to Dr. Charles Crutchfield, III, on his selection as a ‘Top Doctor’ every year since 2000! Dr. Crutchfield has also been recognized by “Minnesota Physician” as one of the 100 most influential health care leaders in Minnesota. “I want all my patients to look good and feel great with beautiful skin,” says Charles E. Crutchfield III, M.D. “When you come to Crutchfield Dermatology, the emphasis is on quality, in-depth skincare knowledge and service. That’s what really sets us apart.” A long list of awards and honors is evidence that Dr. Crutchfield is good at what he does. Recently selected by NBC News/The Grio as one of the 100 most influential African-Americans in the U.S., he is humbled by the recognition he receives and shares the credit. “I realize that no one gets where they are without the help of many people. I’m now at a point in my career where I can give back.” Dr. Crutchfield’s professional accomplishments are matched by generous community outreach and support. His commitment to the community runs deep, especially for students – through scholarships, textbook donations, and mentorship. A Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School, he is a mentor in the University of Minnesota’s Future Doctors of America program, where undergraduate students of color shadow Dr. Crutchfield during patient appointments. They learn the art of medicine and are introduced to a wide variety of opportunities. Dr. Crutchfield recently received the Minnesota Medical Association Foundation’s Minority Affairs Meritorious Service Award as an outstanding mentor dedicated to students within the program. His medical students at the University of Minnesota Medical School have honored him three times as Teacher of the Year, and Dr. Crutchfield’s preceptorships through Harlem’s Touro College of Medicine so impressed two medical student recipients that they relocated to the Twin Cities to practice. Dr. Crutchfield’s definition of community enthusiastically includes the Minnesota Twins, and his love of baseball occasionally surfaces in his philanthropic work. During his residency, he learned a hospice patient and fellow baseball fan dreamed of meeting Kirby Puckett. He arranged the meeting, and the Mayo Clinic acknowledged his kindness with the Karis Humanitarian Award. When Twins player Bert Blyleven accepted a dare to eat night crawlers in exchange for a hundred dollar donation to Parkinson’s research, Dr. Crutchfield upped the ante to a thousand dollars, challenging other medical clinics to join him. His challenge raised almost $15,000 for the Parkinson’s Association of Minnesota. Dr. Crutchfield also donates to the Twins Community Fund to build ballparks for children in the inner city. “Sports give children focus and a sense of personal achievement,” he explains. “Many sports require a substantial investment, but baseball is financially accessible. You give a kid a glove, a ball, and a bat, and they are

good to go.” Remembering school days when he struggled with dyslexia himself, Crutchfield serves as a Hero Benefactor for the Reading Center, stepping in when available scholarships aren’t sufficient to cover the number of hopeful students. For the High school for Recording Arts, founded in Saint Paul to encourage at-risk youth to finish high school by linking lyric writing to English and marketing to mathematics, Dr. Crutchfield contributes funding and scholarships. Dr. Crutchfield provides substantial support, including financial contributions, and he encourages his staff to participate in breast cancer, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s walks. He has also been given the “Patriotic Employer Award” from the Minnesota National Guard for his support of our troops and the “Gold Triangle Award” from the American Academy of Dermatology for promoting health-care awareness in underserved areas. He offered free skin and scar treatments for the survivors of the tragic Minneapolis 35W bridge collapse and received the first “Physician Health Care Hero” by Medica, Twin Cities Business and KARE11 for “Outstanding contributors to the quality of health care in Minnesota.” His philanthropy also extends to supporting Camp Discovery for children with skin diseases. For over a decade, Dr. Crutchfield has been an active supporter and nominator, dedicating all royalties from the dermatology textbook he coauthored to the program. Once a child is accepted into the camp, the entire experience is covered by donations. “As a child, I loved going to camp. But as a dermatologist working with children with skin diseases, I see so many kids ashamed to go because they are afraid to expose themselves to being teased. Camp Discovery is a place where kids can be kids again.” Dr. Crutchfield’s effort extends to establishing a lectureship at the University of Minnesota honoring his parents, Susan Crutchfield M.D., then the youngest ever and first African-American female graduate of the medical school, and Charles Crutchfield, Sr., M.D., the first practicing African- American Obstetrician-Gynecologist in the Twin Cities who went on to deliver almost 10,000 babies. He has also co-authored a children’s book for “little leaguers” extolling the virtues of being sun-safe and using sun Protection. Little Charles Hits a Home Run is available on Amazon.com, Kindle, Nook and iPad. Proceeds benefit the Twins Community Fund and Camp Discovery. His contributions continue. His latest medical endeavor is an initiative requiring auto manufacturers, cell phone companies, and insurance companies to equip cars with technology disabling a phone’s texting function while driving. Visit crutchfielddermatology.com/safetexting for more information. For Dr. Crutchfield, giving back has become a way of life.

Crutchfield Dermatology • 1185 Town Centre Drive • Suite 101 • Eagan • 651-209-3600 www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com


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contents

Features

real food spring 2015

18 Brazilian Barbecue and Beyond The tapestry of home cooking meets the dynamism of modern Brazilian cooking. BY DAVID PONTÉ, JAMIE BARBER, AND LIZZIE BARBER WITH CHEF DAVID ROOD

28 The Incredible Egg This kitchen star moves beyond the breakfast hour. BY ROBIN ASBELL

36 Slow and Steady Slow cooker meals from savory to surprisingly sweet. BY JUDITH FINLAYSON

44 Chocolate, Chocolate, Chocolate Need we say more? The beloved confection is king when it comes to sweets. BY JULIE HASSON

52 Supermarket Superwoman Chef and cookbook author Melissa d’Arabian on feeding a family healthfully, easily, and affordably. BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Wrap up single-serving pocket pies with ease. RECIPES BY PAMELA CLARK

6 Kitchen Skills Timing is key to creating successful risotto. BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Little flaxseeds offer big nutrition. BY AMIE VALPONE

56 Pairings Raise a glass with an old friend—Chardonnay. BY MARY SUBIALKA

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56 34

Our Cover

Kimchi and Gruyère Pizza (page 32). This spread: Chocolate Mint Silk Tart (page 48). Photographs by Terry Brennan

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PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES JON REYNOLDS PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES MINDY LOOYENGA AND KELLY WIEBE EDITORIAL INTERN CLAIRE BRAMEL

VOLUME 11, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse.


bites

A Pocketful of Possibilities Wrap up single-serving parcels of sweet or savory pies with ease.

F

laky puff pasty and phyllo (pronounced FEE-loh) dough have layers of deliciousness that are key to favorites such as buttery croissants and baklava. And while you could try your hand at making these multi-layered doughs yourself, there are ready-made options available (often frozen) that make it easy to wrap up either savory or sweet pocket pies, such as these creations featured in the new cookbook, Pocket Pies, by Pamela Clark. Other recipes in the book, from mini empanadas and pasties to turnovers and more shrink the size so pies are easy to cook, freeze, serve, or pack for lunch. And wrapping up a variety of options in ready-made dough presents a range of possibilities. Note that while puff pastry and phyllo (also spelled “filo”) may seem similar, it’s not recommended to use them interchangeably as they would produce different results. If you would like to make your own shortcrust pastry to use for a variety of meat, seafood, or sweet options, the book includes an introductory section featuring a Basic Shortcrust Pastry recipe as well as step-by-step instructions and photos for key techniques to making pastry, from kneading it to lining a dish or pan. —Mary Subialka

PHOTOS AND RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM POCKET PIES © 2014 STERLING PUBLISHING CO., INC. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ACP MAGAZINES LIMITED.

Spiced Apple Parcels MAKES 6 SERVINGS

1½ 3 2 1 ½ ¼ ¼ 1½ 1

ounces butter medium apples, peeled, cored, chopped finely tablespoons maple syrup tablespoon superfine sugar teaspoon mixed spice (or pumpkin pie spice) cup golden raisins cup slivered almonds, toasted sheets butter puff pastry egg, beaten lightly

1. Melt butter in large frying pan; cook apple, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes or until browned lightly. Add maple syrup, sugar and spice; cook, stirring, about 5 minutes or until liquid boils and caramelizes. Transfer to medium heatproof bowl. Stir in golden raisins and nuts. Cool 20 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425°F. 3. Cut whole pastry sheet in quarters; cut half sheet in half. Spoon ¼ cup apple mixture along one half of pastry squares. Fold over to form rectangles, pressing edges to seal with a fork. Brush with egg. Make three slits in parcels. 4. Bake about 20 minutes or until browned. Dust with sifted confectioners’ sugar and serve with ice cream, if desired.

4 real food spring 2015


bites

Chicken and Leek Strudel MAKES 8 SERVINGS

2 1¼ 8 2½ 1⁄3

tablespoon olive oil medium yellow onion, chopped finely medium leek, white part only, sliced thinly large carrot, finely chopped cloves garlic, crushed pound boneless chicken thighs, chopped finely tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour cups light cream sheets filo pastry ounces butter, melted cup ground almonds

1. Heat oil in large frying pan; cook onion, leek, carrot and garlic, stirring, until carrot softens. Add chicken; cook, stirring, until browned. Add flour; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Gradually stir in cream; cook, stirring, until mixture boils and thickens. Season to taste. Cool.

2. Preheat oven to 400°F. 3. Line large oven tray with parchment paper. Brush one pastry sheet with melted butter; sprinkle with a little of the almonds. Layer with remaining pastry, butter and almonds, ending with a pastry sheet. 4. Spoon chicken mixture along one long side of pastry, leaving a 2-inch border on each side. Roll to enclose filling, fold in sides, roll up. Transfer roll to tray; brush with butter. Bake about 25 minutes or until browned. Stand strudel on tray 5 minutes before serving. Tip: It is fine to use just one 10½ fluid ounces carton of cream for this recipe. ■ NUTRITION

1 1 1 1 2 1

CHICKEN AND LEEK STRUDEL : PER SERVING: CALORIES 416; FAT 33g (sat. 17g); CARB 14g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 16g SPICED APPLE PARCELS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 346; FAT 21g (sat. 10g); CARB 35g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 5g

spring 2015 real food 5


kitchen skills

The Risotto Technique Timing is key to creating successful risotto. BY JASON ROSS

R

isotto is deceptively simple. Timing, however, is everything: Knowing when the rice is done and when it needs more time, when to add more liquid, and when to let it thicken. It’s important to know what to look for. Delicious on its own, this basic recipe can be paired with garnishes of your choice, such as sautéed mushrooms, poached asparagus, or sliced chicken breast.

Risotto 101 Texture Overcooked risotto grains are sticky, soft, and prone to falling apart. Undercooked risotto grains are crunchy and raw-tasting. Well-cooked risotto grains are firm and almost chewy, with each kernel offering texture. To check for doneness, taste a few rice kernels. As you chew, ask yourself: Does it have a crunchy center? If you use your tongue to push the rice against your teeth, can you feel gritty grains of hard starch inside? Next, cut open a rice kernel and look inside. Does it have a hard, white center? If the rice is crunchy or has a hard white center, it’s not quite done. The trick to well-cooked rice is to stop cooking at the right moment— just when it is fully cooked and the dry starch has softened, but not gone past there. Your best tools are your senses. Consistency Put a spoonful of risotto on a plate. Does it stand up stiff at attention, unmoving and firm? That’s too tight. Does it spill flat onto the plate, with little structure to support it? That’s too loose. Risotto should be able to nearly hold its shape. It should slowly sink into the plate, almost pourable. Too firm is an easy fix; just add a bit more broth. Too loose is more difficult as cooking out the excess broth can result in overcooked rice. For this reason, broth should be added judiciously when the rice is nearly cooked. Leftovers Risotto does not reheat well, but it does make great croquettes, called arancini in Italian. Using your hands, form leftover risotto into small balls roughly the size of golf balls. Dip in flour, followed by egg wash, then bread crumbs. Fry in hot oil until browned and warm inside. Serve with a simple tomato sauce, cream sauce, or meat sauce and a sprinkle of Parmesan. Crunchy on the outside and creamy and cheesy on the inside, these croquettes may be the best use of leftovers ever. Cooking for Guests If you want to serve risotto to guests, prepare early to avoid spending too much time in the kitchen during your party. Follow the normal technique, but stop adding stock when the rice is a little more than halfway cooked and still crunchy in the center. Spread the par-cooked rice onto a baking sheet and refrigerate to cool quickly. Once cooled, transfer to an airtight container, where it can be stored this way in the refrigerator for up to a week. To finish the risotto, warm 1 cup unsalted broth in a pan, and stir the par-cooked risotto into the warm broth. Continue adding warm broth as needed until cooked, stirring as rice absorbs liquid, basically taking up where you left off in the risotto making technique. PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

6 real food spring 2015


Parmesan Risotto MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

The basic technique for risotto is to gradually add warm broth to rice until it is cooked, stirring as the rice absorbs the liquid. Done right, it is creamy, warm, and comforting. ½ ½ ½ 1 6

tablespoon olive oil or butter yellow onion, minced tablespoon salt cup Arborio rice cups unsalted chicken broth, heated to a near simmer 1 tablespoon unsalted butter ¼ cup grated Parmesan

NUTRITION

1. Use a heavy-bottomed pot large enough to hold rice and broth with enough room to stir comfortably; if you have one, an enameled iron pot works well. Over medium heat, sweat onion in oil and season with salt for 3 minutes, until the onions are fragrant and translucent but not yet brown. 2. With heat still on medium, pour in rice and stir with a wooden spoon, coating thoroughly in oil and onion 2 to 3 minutes. 3. Ladle in warm broth to just cover rice. Cook roughly 6 to 8 minutes on medium heat, stirring frequently and scraping sides of pot with a wooden spoon, until broth is absorbed. Repeat process 3 to 4 times, until rice is fully cooked and liquid is mostly absorbed. (You may have extra broth remaining.) 4. Stir in butter and Parmesan. Add salt to taste and broth if risotto becomes too stiff. Serve immediately. ■ PARMESAN RISOTTO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 240 (63 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 3g); CHOL 10mg; SODIUM 956mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 11g

spring 2015 real food 7


contributors

Robin Asbell

Julie Hasson

is the author of nine cookbooks including the newest, Vegan Casseroles, and 150 Best Cupcake Recipes, 125 Best Chocolate Chip Recipes, and 300 Best Chocolate Recipes. She has over 23 years of experience in the food industry, including serving as a private chef. After culinary school, she opened the original Babycakes Bakery in Los Angeles and has contributed articles and recipes to Bon Appétit, Cooking Light, and Vegetarian Times. She hosts “Everyday Dish,” an online cooking show, and has been featured on Martha Stewart Radio. Julie lives in Portland, Oregon.

Judith Finlayson

Amie Valpone

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher, and private chef. She likes to add special touches to dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains, with an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is Gluten-Free Pasta: More than 100 Fast and Flavorful Recipes with Low- and No-Carb Options, and she is the author of Juice It!, Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes No Meat No Dairy All Delicious, The New Whole Grains Cookbook Cookbook, and the New Vegetarian.

Terry Brennan

Jason Ross

Tara Q. Thomas

Lara Miklasevics

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

8 real food spring 2015

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

is a writer, editor, and bestselling author. After a career as a journalist and editor, she decided to pursue her life-long passion for cooking. Since then she has written 13 cookbooks, which have sold over 750,000 copies. Her slow cooker books include The Healthy Slow Cooker, 175 Essential Slow Cooker Classics, The Best Diabetes Slow Cooker Recipes, The 150 Best Slow Cooker Recipes and Delicious & Dependable Slow Cooker Recipes. Judith’s latest book is The Complete Whole Grains Cookbook.

gave up cooking professionally to become a culinaryobsessed writer. She’s been a senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the past decade and writes regularly for the Denver Post, Culture, Gastronomica, and Gourmet. com. The Brooklyn, New York–based mom of two is also author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics.

is the editor-in-chief of TheHealthyApple.com; she is a Manhattan-based personal chef, culinary nutritionist, professional recipe developer, food photographer and writer specializing in simple gluten-free and dairy-free ‘clean’ recipes for the home cook. Amie’s work appears on Martha Stewart Fox News Health, Stewart, WebMD The Huffington WebMD, Post The Food Network Post, Network, Glamour magazine, Clean Eating magazine, SHAPE magazine, Prevention magazine, PBS, and many others.

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.


Lunds and Byerly’s welcome LUNDS Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Edina: 952-926-6833 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka: 952-935-0198 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222

BYERLY’S Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul: 651-735-6340 Woodbury: 651-999-1200

LUNDS & BYERLYS KITCHEN LundsandByerlys.com/kitchen

SHOP ONLINE LundsandByerlys.com

FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

CLASSES & EVENTS Cooking Classes • 952-253-3409 Catering • 952-897-9800

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663

STAY CONNECTED: Sign up for our e-newsletter at LundsandByerlys.com Download our app by texting LBAPP to 55955.

YOUR COMMUNITY PARTNER

T

his past fall we had the privilege of opening the doors to our new Byerly’s in Edina. With every grand opening there is a heightened level of excitement and pride in what our company’s extended family of employees is accomplishing together. These grand openings also have deeper significance for us as I mentioned in last summer’s issue of Real Food. We’re not only opening doors to new stores, we’re also opening doors to long-term commitments to these communities through property investment and enhancement, job creation, and developing meaningful relationships with residents and businesses through our extraordinary foods, exceptional service, and passionate expertise. All of that is certainly on full display at our new Byerly’s in Edina. This store has everything customers have come to expect from us with new, innovative features throughout the store, including fresh-pressed juices, expansive health and wellness offerings, a Bone Marché pet market, Creations Café, and a mezzanine where you can purchase wine and local craft beers by the glass (see story on pages 12-13). The store is located on the same site as our former Byerly’s and is part of a total redevelopment of the site that includes improved street access and will eventually include a vibrant mix of housing and additional retail offerings.

The opening of this new store also served as the culmination of our 75th anniversary celebration. If you were one of the hundreds who Tres attended our grand Lund opening event, you heard some of the stories shared throughout the year from our company’s extended family of employees, customers, and business and community partners. More than 850 stories were shared, and you can listen to and read all of them at LundsandByerlys.com/75years. If you haven’t visited the site yet, I encourage you to do so. Some stories will make you laugh. Some might even bring a tear to your eye. All of them are an important reminder to us that selling groceries is what we do, but creating deeper, more meaningful relationships is what fuels our passion for creating a sensational working and shopping experience. For the past 75 years we’ve been growing together with the communities we serve, and we look forward to continuing to do so for the next 75 years and beyond. Thank you for choosing to shop with us. Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

Join our Text Club by texting DEALS to 55955. Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys

LundsandByerlys.com real food 9


Lunds and Byerly’s meat department

Dinner Table Masterpiece Our new Lunds & Byerlys hams come from talented smokemasters carrying on a family tradition. BY SCOTT KERSTING Director of Meat and Seafood

I

n our never-ending search to bring you the very best in quality and expertise, we are constantly on the lookout for new products, new trends, and new techniques. We caught wind of a smokehouse down in Missouri creating some truly great hams, and we asked their team to come up for a visit. We sampled the hams and were hooked in one bite. So we partnered with Burgers’ Smokehouse to create our new Lunds & Byerlys hams. Burgers’ Smokehouse, located in California, Missouri, is a fourth-generation, family owned smokehouse with more than 60 years of experience crafting some of the nation’s best cured and smoked meats. They start with fresh, never-frozen hams that are less than 48 hours old, guaranteeing freshness at the time of curing. The art of curing used in crafting these hams was passed down through their founder’s mother, a native of Germany. We can tell you Burgers’ cure recipe consists of high-quality ingredients, including maple syrup and brown sugar, but the rest is a closely held family secret. The hams are then marinated for days to allow the sweet solution to permeate the entire ham to ensure each bite is as flavorful as the next. While this process takes far longer than others, Burgers’ knows there is no substitute for time. Next it’s on to the smokehouse, where craftsmanship meets technology. Hams are netted by hand and hung on racks for cooking and smoking. Their ovens allow for precise computer control and exact cooking. Their smokemasters then use an allnatural hickory or applewood smoke to give the ham a natural flavor. As opposed to liquid smoke, natural smoke requires the talent of a smokemaster to regulate the process. After approximately 24 hours of cooking and smoking, these hams have the perfect flavor, color, and texture. Each one is then cut, packaged, and vacuum sealed by hand, making sure they are ready to be the masterpiece of your dinner table. After multiple taste tests here, our team of meat experts agreed it was some of the best ham they had ever eaten. It has a mildly sweet flavor that’s not too salty and a firm texture that’s never dry. Whether you’re looking for a traditional boneless, sliced boneless, traditional bone-in, or a spiral-sliced bone-in ham, you’ll find the highest quality and flavor in our new Lunds & Byerlys hams. Be sure to let us know what you think! ■

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Lunds and Byerly’s meet our experts

Meet the Chef

Get to know Executive Chef Gabe Stockinger, culinary mastermind at Lunds & Byerlys Kitchen

A

pplewood bacon mac and cheese. Pistachio crusted salmon. Lobster pot pie. Is your mouth watering yet? These are just a few of the scrumptious creations that have come out of the kitchen at Lunds & Byerlys Kitchen, a first-of-its-kind food destination in the Twin Cities featuring prepared food offerings, a wine and beer bar, a tailored selection of groceries, and more—all in one space. We caught up with Executive Chef Gabe Stockinger to chat about his culinary expertise and what it takes to run this well-oiled (olive, of course) machine.

Q: Tell us about Lunds & Byerlys Kitchen. A: We focus extensively on freshly prepared offerings for dine-in and take-out, with everything from madeto-order sandwiches, sushi, and a hot food bar to stone-oven pizzas and a wine and beer bar featuring hyper-local craft beers on tap and wines from around the world.

Q: What’s your culinary background?

LUNDS & BYERLYS KITCHEN 250 Superior Blvd., Wayzata, MN 55391 | 952-476-1122 Learn more at LundsandByerlys.com/Kitchen

A: I guess you could say I went to the school of “hard knocks.” I started at a small restaurant in Kasota, Minnesota, called The Country Pub. I continued working in scratch kitchens for the next 15 years. I was also the executive sous chef at Pazzaluna in St. Paul, and most recently the executive chef for Lunds & Byerlys Catering.

Q: Why did you want to become a chef? A: I’ve been cooking since I was nine years old. My parents, grandpa, and babysitter really taught me the ropes. I love cooking because I like to eat well. I’d rather be the one to cook a meal because I want to eat the best, and I know my customers do, too. I also enjoy the challenge of taking the ordinary and making it into something magical and memorable.

Q: What’s your cooking style? A: I would call it country cooking. I like going back to my roots—taking something basic and making it one of the best things you’ve ever eaten. I only want to work with real foods though; I have no desire to cook something in liquid nitrogen or be crazy scientific. I cook with real food because I was raised with real food; nothing came out of the box. Growing up, most kids ate PB&J at my school, but I had things like cow tongue sandwiches. I still love them to this day.

Q: How do you create new items for the menu? A: We brainstorm new ideas, run with them, and listen to what our guests tell us. Our inspiration comes from all over: Food trends, other countries, blogs, or just something I’m in the mood to eat. It’s a lot of trial and error, paying close attention to how customers react, comment, and purchase.

Q: What do you like most about working at Lunds & Byerlys Kitchen? A: The freedom to be creative. We have so many venues to cook for—what we serve in the deli is different than the hot bar, which is different than what’s in the restaurant. Our team creates endless ways to present and prepare our foods that represent what Lunds and Byerly’s is known for: quality. ■

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Lunds and Byerly’s what’s new

Welcome to our new Byerly’s in Edina! O

ur newest store, which opened this past September to a crowd of more than 500 people, is located on the same site as our former Byerly’s. It features all of the extraordinary food, exceptional service and passionate expertise you’ve come to expect from us and more. If you haven’t had a chance to explore the new store, we hope you’ll take some time to check out our new and innovative services and offerings.

CAPTION

Artisan Cheeses Choose from hundreds of varieties of artisan

Bakery Our signature cakes, cookies, and European pastries take

cheeses produced locally and around the world. Cheese specialist Ruel Brown can help you select the perfect cheese for your next gathering.

center stage, along with our new assortment of artisan breads baked from scratch every day in small batches using all-natural grains and flours. The bakery is sure to delight every one of your senses.

Creations Café Enjoy seemingly endless meal options, including made-to-order sandwiches, a rotisserie station, salad bar, Big Bowl Chinese Express, pizzas and pastas from Tucci Pronto, and expanded offerings from Hissho Sushi. You can dine in our café seating area or outside on our two-level patio. 12 real food spring 2015


Our new 51,000-square-foot Byerly’s in Edina, located at 7171 France Ave. S., is open seven days a week from 6 a.m. to midnight.

Wine and Tap Beer Sit down with your favorite meal from Creations Café and enjoy a glass of wine or a local craft beer in The Mezz. Not sure which wine or local craft brew to try? Our experienced bartenders, including Michael Hobson, are eager to share their expertise.

Additional Features Byerly’s Edina also includes everything from premium choice beef, Candy Shop Let your sweet tooth rejoice as you choose from hundreds of varieties of fun-sized candies, artisan chocolates, and bulk candies.

sustainable seafood, and a USDA-certified organic produce department to freshly pressed Zula juices, thousands of organic and natural offerings, and a wide assortment of health and wellness products with an on-site health and wellness manager to offer guidance on holistic and conventional remedies. Other in-store amenities include our pharmacy, Bone Marché pet market, Caribou Coffee, Bachman’s, and U.S. Bank. As you can see, we’re continuously striving to provide you with an even more sensational shopping experience. Enjoy Byerly’s Edina! ■ LundsandByerlys.com real food 13


Lunds and Byerly’s

what’s in store

ANGIE’S BOOMCHICKAPUFF Attention smart snackers: Your favorite BOOMCHICKAPOP popcorn is now available in puffed varieties! This popular local snack brand, which Lunds and Byerly’s was the first to carry, introduces an airy snack puff made with the ancient grain superpower of quinoa and sorghum. Voila! It’s snackpuffery perfected.

Did you know? Ancient grains are naturally gluten free. Try all three tasty flavors: white cheddar, sweet barbeque, and sweet & salty.

NAPA VALLEY VINEGARS Vinegars aren’t just for your garden or fruit salads anymore. Napa Valley Vinegars are the perfect ingredient in your next batch of caramel, the perfect coating for grilled fruits, or the trendy way to make a fresh fruit martini. Try cherry Cabernet, Champagne pear, Chardonnay peach, or blood orange.

Tip: Visit WineCountryKitchens.com for deliciously different video recipes. These all-natural, gluten-free vinegars, handcrafted in Napa, are the new must-have ingredient for your pantry.

BUDDY’S SMALL BATCH NUT BUTTERS With a life-long love of peanut butter and a passion for quality food, Buddy created three delicious nut butters, each with a simple list of artisan ingredients. There’s no need to refrigerate Buddy’s gluten-free nut butters; simply stir and store upright. Enjoy honey peanut, chocolate peanut, and cinnamon raisin.

Did you know? Buddy’s Nut Butters are made in small batches right here in Minnesota! He also sources his ingredients from producers who are just as passionate as he is about making quality foods.

14 real food spring 2015


Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store

EPIC HUNTER GATHERER MIXES This is snacking as nature intended. Inside each pack, you’ll find an epic mix for the hunter and gatherer inside you. Made with 100 percent grassfed organic beef, these mixes are grain free, gluten free, and have 10-12 grams of protein. Try beef jerky with toasted coconut, harvest nuts, mountain medley, or berry blossom.

Tip: Both packets inside each Epic variety are tasty by themselves, but we recommend mixing them together.

LUNDS & BYERLYS BAR-B-Q SAUCES KLARBRUNN ÜBR WATER There is water, and then there is übr water. Each bottle of this premium water, which is sourced and bottled locally, offers you the ultimate balance and refreshment, combining electrolytes and a high pH level of +7 to provide elevated hydration for the body and mind. It’s smarter than your average water.

Did you know? Electrolytes regulate body fluids and help you recover from intense physical performance.

With grilling season right around the corner, our new Bar-B-Q sauces will be a huge hit on your dinner table or at the next neighborhood party this year. Our five all-natural, gluten-free sauces are rich and bursting with flavor. They’re the perfect complement to your favorite grilled meat. Flavors include original, Merlot, chipotle Cabernet, sweet & smoky, and bourbon.

Tip: Use as a condiment or simply brush on while grilling or roasting. Our new sauces are delicious as a flavor enhancer for any grilling marinade or dressing. Happy grilling!

LundsandByerlys.com real food 15


Entertain new possibilities

enter to win this pro-style range up to $3,399 retail value*

text range to 55955

EDINA

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available at

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*Winner has choice of electric, gas, dual fuel or induction. Visit LundsandByerlys.com/range for contest rules and alternate forms of entry.

COON RAPIDS


ingredient

Petite Powerhouse Little flaxseeds offer big nutrition plus versatility from breakfast to dinner. BY AMIE VALPONE

L

PHOTO © ELENATHEWISE-FOTOLIA.COM

ooking to add a super boost of nutrients to your diet? Flaxseed is one of the most potent super foods in the world. Even back in the 8th century, King Charlemagne believed so strongly in the benefits of flaxseed that he passed a law requiring his subjects to eat it. What makes flaxseed so great? Eating just 2 tablespoons of flaxseed a day will provide you 6 grams of fiber and 4 grams of protein, plus loads of other nutrients such as magnesium, lignans, and omega-3 fatty acids. Flaxseed has been shown to reduce the risk of a number of diseases including diabetes, cancer, and cardiovascular disease as well as alleviate symptoms of menopause. Keep in mind that flaxseed is best digested when ground, so opt for a ground variety or grind your own seeds using a coffee grinder. It’s best to start with ½ to 1 tablespoon per day and work up to greater quantities (up to 4 to 6 tablespoons per day) because the high fiber content can cause bloating in those who are new to eating flax. Flaxseed is a versatile food that can be added to everything from smoothies to baked goods. Here are four easy ways to add more flaxseed to your diet today.

BULK UP YOUR BREAKFAST: Flaxseed is a great way to add bulk to recipes such as smoothies, oatmeal, and protein shakes. Try blending a frozen banana, almond butter, coconut milk, and 1 tablespoon ground flaxseed for a delicious super-powered breakfast. USE AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR EGGS: Flaxseed makes a lovely egg replacement, and can be used in recipes for pizza crusts, pancakes, waffles, bread, and more. You can add ground flaxseed directly to your recipes for a nutritional boost or use as an egg replacement by combining 3 tablespoons flaxseed with 1 tablespoon water and letting sit for 5 minutes. (This is equivalent to 1 egg.) ADD A BOOST TO YOUR BURGERS: Give your burger night an added boost of nutrition with a healthy dose of flax. Add 2 tablespoons ground flaxseed to your favorite meatball or veggie burger for added fiber and an easy gluten-free, grain-free way to bind the balls and burgers together without using bread. COOK UP HEALTHY BREADED DISHES: Coat your chicken, fish, or eggplant Parmesan with ground flaxseed before they hit the skillet instead of breadcrumbs for a nutritious and low-carb crust. Place ground flaxseed in a shallow dish and coat your protein source on both sides and then cook for a crispy outer coating. ■

spring 2015 real food 17


PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS


Brazilian Barbecue

and beyond

The tapestry of home cooking meets the dynamism of modern Brazilian cooking—gather your friends and family.

BY DAVID PONTÉ, JAMIE BARBER, AND LIZZIE BARBER WITH CHEF DAVID ROOD EXCERPT REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM BRAZILIAN BARBECUE & BEYOND, PUBLISHED IN 2014 BY STERLING EPICURE. TEXT © 2014 CABANA.


SANDRA’S SHRIMP SOUP


Sandra’s Shrimp Soup

Chicken Empadinhas

SERVES 4

MAKES ABOUT 36

When we told our family and friends we were planning to write a cookbook, David’s Brazilian godmother Sandra passed on her own collection of family recipes as a source of inspiration. We thought this recipe was absolutely delicious and we had to share it with you. So thank you, Sandra!

Empanadas and empadinhas (little ones) are savory pies found in bars and buffet tables throughout Brazil. Traditionally, an olive is placed in the center—the origin of the expression a azeitona de empanada (“an olive in the empanada”), which refers to something that is the crucial element. Catupiry is a Brazilian soft cream cheese. It’s hard to find, and you can substitute ordinary cream cheese. You can also replace the chicken with chopped canned palm hearts for a vegetarian version.

1 1½ 1 1 1 2

pound raw king shrimp tablespoons butter small onion, finely chopped celery stalk, finely chopped carrot, finely chopped ounces white or cremini mushrooms, chopped ¼–½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1⁄3 cup dry white wine generous ¾ cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley sea salt 1. Remove the shells from the shrimp, put the shells in a pan, and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, then strain and set aside the liquid, discarding the shells. 2. Meanwhile, devein the shrimp and set 12 aside for the garnish. Chop the rest into small pieces. Cover with plastic wrap and chill. 3. Melt the butter in a large, heavy pan over medium heat, add the vegetables, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until softened. Season with salt and cayenne pepper. Add the wine and let it boil until reduced by half. Pour in the shrimp stock and bring to a simmer. Cook gently for 10 to 15 minutes, then add the heavy cream and bring back to a simmer. Finally, add the chopped shrimp and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Remove from the heat. 4. Heat the oil in a skillet until hot and add the reserved whole shrimp. Season with salt and a little more cayenne pepper and fry for 2 to 3 minutes, tossing once or twice, until they turn pink and opaque and are just cooked through. 5. Ladle the shrimp soup into warmed bowls and garnish with the fried whole shrimp and a sprinkling of chopped parsley and a little cayenne pepper. Serve immediately.

1 cup (2 sticks) soft butter scant 3¼ cups all-purpose flour, sifted 1¾ teaspoons sea salt 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely crushed 1 plum tomato, seeded and finely chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste ½ cup peas, thawed if frozen 7 ounces skinless, boneless cooked chicken, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro 1 scallion, finely chopped pinch of ground nutmeg scant ½ cup catupiry or cream cheese 2 egg yolks mixed with 2 tablespoons olive oil, to glaze sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. First make the dough. Put the butter in a stand mixer and beat until pale and light. Add the flour and salt and mix at low speed until combined. Gradually add the egg, mixing until the dough starts to come together. Try to shape an olive-sized ball of dough—if it’s too dry, add 1 tablespoon cold water and mix again. Gather it into a ball, flatten it slightly, wrap it in plastic wrap, and chill in the fridge. 2. Heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook for 4 to 6 minutes, stirring, until soft but not browned. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, until fragrant. Stir in the tomato and tomato paste and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Take the pan off the heat. Mix in the rest of the ingredients except the cream cheese and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool before folding in the cream cheese. It should be moist and juicy, but not runny. 3. Preheat the oven to 350°F and lightly butter three 12-hole mini pie or muffin pans. Roll out the dough to 1⁄8 inch thick on a lightly floured counter. Use a round pastry cutter ¾ - 1¼ inches larger than the diameter of the cups in the pan to cut out 36 dough circles. Press them into the prepared pans, leaving a little dough sticking out around the edge. Brush the base and sides with the egg and oil glaze. Place 1 teaspoon filling into each one. Roll out the remaining dough and cut out 36 circles slightly bigger than the diameter of the pies. Cover the pies with circles, pressing the edges together to seal. Trim off any excess dough. Brush the tops with the glaze and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. Remove and let cool slightly before turning out. Serve warm.

spring 2015 real food 21


Chili & Cumin Marinated Hanger Steak SERVES 4

At traditional Brazilian churrascarias, rock salt is usually sprinkled on the side of meat that faces the grill, then knocked off just before serving. It’s tasty just like that, but we’ve adapted our steak to include a bit more spice. Our Chili & Cumin Marinade is a blend of vinegar, cumin seeds, oregano, and red pepper flakes; we use it to marinate all our steaks, but it’s equally good on lamb or fish. 4 7-ounce hanger steaks (also known as butcher’s steak or onglet) 4 tablespoons Chili & Cumin Marinade, plus extra for brushing (see recipe below) olive oil, for brushing sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Put the steaks in a large bowl and toss with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight. 2. Half an hour before you are ready to cook, take the steaks out of the refrigerator and let them come to room temperature. Light the barbecue and let the flames die down before starting to cook. If cooking indoors, heat a griddle pan until very hot. Scrape the marinade off the steaks and pat dry with paper towels. Brush them with a little oil, season lightly with salt and pepper, then barbecue or griddle for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until cooked to medium rare. They should feel a little springy when pressed. Remove from the heat and brush with a little marinade. Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. We like our steaks with Sweet Potato Fries and a salad.

Chili & Cumin Marinade MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

This warming and subtly spiced marinade used for the hanger steak recipe (above) also works well with lamb fillet and mixed into ground beef burgers. 3 ounces red chiles (preferably malagueta), seeded and roughly chopped 5–6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 3 tablespoons mirin (Japanese rice wine) 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 teaspoons sea salt 1 heaping teaspoon toasted cumin seeds ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ cup light olive or sunflower oil 1. Put all the ingredients in a small food processor and blend to a smooth, wet paste suitable for coating meats and fish. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to a week in a clean sealed jar.


CHICKEN EMPADINHAS AND CHILI & CUMIN MARINATED HANGER STEAK

spring 2015 real food 23


Pulled Pork Feijoada

Pulled Pork

SERVES 4

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE*

This is our new-style feijoada recipe, which combines black beans simmered with rich chorizo sausage and pulled pork. Our recipe is a quick and easy version of the traditional, rather complicated Brazilian stew—so you’ll have more time to spend making Caipirinhas!

1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon superfine sugar 2 tablespoons ground black pepper ¼ cup dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon sweet paprika 2 tablespoons smoked paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1¼ tablespoons celery salt 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1¾–2¼ pounds pork shoulder

1½ 3 1 1 1 4 1 1 1

tablespoons olive oil cooking chorizo sausages, sliced onion, chopped celery stalk, chopped carrot, chopped garlic cloves, finely chopped tablespoon tomato paste 14-ounce can black beans, drained tablespoon vegetable or chicken bouillon powder (or 1 bouillon cube) few sprigs of thyme 8 ounces Pulled Pork (see recipe right) 1 tablespoon Spicy Malagueta Marinade (see recipe right) small handful of Italian parsley, finely chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat the oil in a large pan and add the chorizo. Fry for 2 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Add the onion, celery, carrot, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, over medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes, until softened. Stir in the tomato paste and season with salt and pepper. Fry for another 2 minutes, until the vegetables begin to color. 2. Add the black beans and stir well. Add the stock powder and thyme leaves and stir again. If you find it a little too thick, add a splash of water—just enough to cover the ingredients. Part-cover the pan and simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until everything is soft. 3. Add the Pulled Pork and Spicy Malagueta Marinade to the pan. Stir well, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Once the pork has heated through, stir in the chopped parsley and ladle into warmed bowls. Serve with Biro-Biro Rice, Toasted Farofa, orange wedges and potato matchsticks for the proper feijoada experience.

24 real food spring 2015

1. Preheat the oven to 275°F. First, mix together all the ingredients except the pork in a bowl, then transfer to a clean, sealable jar. Any leftover spice mix will keep well. 2. Remove the rind and trim off any excess fat from the pork, then put it in a roasting pan and rub in 2–3 tablespoons of the spice, making sure it is evenly coated. Cover with foil and roast for 7 to 8 hours, until the pork is very tender and you can pull it apart with a fork. Remove and let it cool a little. Pull the pork into shreds with a fork or slice it thinly and moisten the meat with the juices in the pan. Any leftovers will freeze beautifully. *Editor’s note: After making Pulled Pork Feijoada with 8 ounces of this pulled pork, try the leftovers as a Brazilian take on mini burgers: Mix the pork with a few tablespoons of the Spicy Malagueta Marinade (recipe below), place atop small buns, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.

Spicy Malagueta Marinade MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS

This is Cabana’s signature marinade. The seeds are usually left in the chiles for heat, but you could remove them if you prefer a milder flavor. Used in the Pulled Pork Feijoada recipe (above) it is also good for chicken and shrimp. 3 ounces small red chiles (preferably malagueta) 5 garlic cloves, lightly crushed scant ¹⁄3 cup light olive or sunflower oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2½ teaspoons tomato paste 2½ teaspoons superfine sugar ½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes 1 heaping tablespoon sweet paprika 2 teaspoons sea salt pinch of dried oregano 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Split the chiles lengthwise and place them in a small roasting tray with the garlic and olive oil. Roast for 10 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes, then put the chiles, garlic, and oil in a small food processor or blender and add the rest of the ingredients. Blend to a smooth purée. Transfer to a clean jar, seal, and keep refrigerated for up to a week.


PULLED PORK FEIJOADA


PORK WITH PARMESAN CRUST


Pork with Parmesan Crust

Chimichurri Marinade

SERVES 4

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

Pork with Parmesan is a unique Brazilian dish that was probably created by Italian immigrants who took Parmesan to Brazil. Any tender cut of pork, such as tenderloin, works well here: It’s cooked, rolled in Parmesan, and then grilled until the cheese forms a crispy crust. The Chimichurri Marinade is optional— if you don’t have time to make it, the pork still tastes delicious with just the cheese crust.

Chimichurri is a fresh herb marinade that’s Argentinian in origin, but has been adopted by Brazilian churrascarias (barbecue restaurants) as a marinade for steak and fish. It also works well with vegetables. You can also serve it as a dipping sauce with slices of fresh sourdough bread.

1 pound 2 ounces pork tenderloin juice of 1 lime, plus lime wedges to garnish 5 tablespoons Chimichurri Marinade (see recipe right), or olive oil 2⁄3 cup grated Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Molho Vinagrete to serve (see recipe right)

NUTRITION

1. Trim the pork tenderloin of any fat or white membrane, then drizzle with the lime juice and Chimichurri Marinade, if using, and toss to ensure it is evenly coated, or simply rub with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cover and marinate in the fridge for 4 hours, or overnight. 2. Light the barbecue and let the flames die down before starting to cook. Cook the pork over direct heat on a barbecue for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until evenly browned all over. Transfer to a cooler part of the barbecue, cover with a lid, and continue to cook for about 10 to 15 minutes, until it is slightly springy to the touch or a pair of tongs. (Do check and turn the pork occasionally. Timings will vary depending on the thickness of the fillet and the intensity of the heat). Remove the pork and roll it in grated Parmesan until evenly coated. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, until the cheese has melted and is golden brown. The pork should feel just firm and the juices should run clear when pierced with a skewer. Rest for 5 to 10 minutes, then slice and serve with Molho Vinagrete.

CHICKEN EMPADINHAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 131 (78 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 4g); CHOL 42mg; SODIUM 188mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 4g

SANDRA’S SHRIMP SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 312 (213 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 13g); CHOL 199mg; SODIUM 154mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 19g

1 5 1 2⁄3 ½ 2 1 1

ounce Italian parsley large garlic cloves teaspoon dried oregano cup light olive or sunflower oil teaspoon dried red pepper flakes tablespoons red wine vinegar teaspoon sea salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring a small pan of water to a boil and have a bowl of iced water ready. Blanch the parsley for 1 minute, then drain it immediately and plunge it into the icy water. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Finely chop the parsley and garlic and place it in a bowl or a clean jar with lid. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir well. Alternatively, blend the blanched parsley with the rest of the ingredients in a food processor. Use immediately, or refrigerate in a sealed container and use within 3 to 4 days.

Molho Vinagrete SERVES 4

Molho literally means “sauce” in Portuguese, and molho vinagrete is a typical sauce used at Brazilian barbecues. The tangy flavors work well with most barbecue dishes. 3 ripe plum tomatoes (about 9 ounces) 1 small onion small handful of Italian parsley 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 3 tablespoons light olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Halve the tomatoes, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon, chop them, and place in a large bowl. Chop the onion to about the same size as the tomatoes and add to the bowl. Finely chop the parsley leaves and add them to the bowl. 2. Whisk the vinegar, oil, and a pinch each of salt and pepper to make a dressing. Drizzle it over the tomato mixture and stir well. Spoon into one large or small individual bowls to serve. ■

CHILI & CUMIN MARINATED HANGER STEAK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 418 (250 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 9g); CHOL 129mg; SODIUM 666mg; CARB 2g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 38g

PULLED PORK FEIJOADA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 473 (248 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 9g); CHOL 75mg; SODIUM 1531mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 30g

PORK WITH PARMESAN CRUST: PER SERVING: CALORIES 467 (312 from fat); FAT 35g (sat. 8g); CHOL 67mg; SODIUM 614mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 33g

spring 2015 real food 27


PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS 28 real food spring 2015


The Incredible Egg This kitchen star moves beyond the breakfast hour.

BY ROBIN ASBELL

spring 2015 real food 29


T

his inexpensive food is one of the most versatile, playing a starring role in everything from egg salad and quiche to birthday cake and sabayon sauce. Eggs offer three separate options: whole eggs, egg whites,

and egg yolks. Simply cracked and cooked, whole eggs can go solo or hold together endless variations of frittatas, muffins, and more. Egg whites can create lofty peaks when beaten and add structure to baked goods. With their sunny yellow color and velvety texture, egg yolks add richness, moistness, and protein to any dish.

Sun-Dried Tomato and Chèvre Eggy Muffins

Red Pepper Bacon Mini Tarts

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

When in need of some classic finger food to serve at a party, look to these easy tarts. Puff pastry makes a crispy, buttery crust for the creamy egg filling spiked with bacon and sweet red peppers.

Boost the protein in your muffin with eggs and add some super savory flavors to make them as compatible with a glass of wine as a cup of tea. Take these tasty, packable muffins to work for lunch, enjoy with a soup or salad, or serve them at your next party.

1 6 1 1 1⁄2 2 1⁄2 3⁄4 4 2 1⁄4

butter, for greasing muffin tin cup sun-dried tomatoes large eggs cup plain yogurt cup white whole-wheat flour cup cornmeal tablespoons sugar teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt ounces chèvre, crumbled large scallions, chopped cup chopped parsley

1. Thoroughly and generously butter a 12-cup muffin tin and set aside. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Bring 2 cups water to a boil, then place the tomatoes in a heat-safe bowl and pour the water over tomatoes and let stand until rehydrated and soft. 3. Drain and wring out tomatoes, chop, and set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs and yogurt. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Stir in egg mixture and gently fold in tomatoes, chèvre, scallions, and parsley. 4. Portion batter by heaping ¼-cup measures into muffin cups. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until tops are puffed and golden, and a toothpick inserted in center of muffin in middle of pan comes out clean. 5. Let cool in pan on rack 10 minutes before running a paring knife around each muffin and gently transferring to a rack to finish cooling. Serve warm.

30 real food spring 2015

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

1 1 5 1⁄4 1⁄2 1⁄2 2 1 2

sheet puff pastry, thawed teaspoon butter large eggs cup heavy cream teaspoon salt teaspoon pepper slices bacon, cooked and crumbled medium roasted red pepper, chopped tablespoons fresh parsley

1. Thaw puff pastry overnight in refrigerator. 2. Lightly butter a 12-cup muffin tin. Preheat oven to 375°F. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, cream, salt, and pepper. 4. Remove puff pastry from refrigerator, remove 1 sheet, and reseal and freeze remaining sheet for future use. Place on a floured counter and roll out to a 14-inch-by-11-inch rectangle. Cut 12 rounds with a 3½-inch-round biscuit or cookie cutter. Carefully place each round in a muffin cup, pressing down to mold to sides. Distribute bacon and pepper in puff pastries. Pour over egg mixture, taking care to leave puff pastry above level of eggs. Sprinkle on parsley and use fingertip to secure into egg-filled pastries. 5. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until eggs are puffed and pastry is golden-brown. Cool on rack 5 minutes and run a paring knife around edges and carefully remove pastries. Serve warm or at room temperature. Cook’s Notes For a great make-ahead appetizer, let the cooked tarts cool completely and freeze in an airtight container for up to two months. A day before serving, thaw overnight in the refrigerator and, just prior to serving, reheat in a 350°F oven about 10–15 minutes, until heated through.


SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND CHÈVRE EGGY MUFFINS (LEFT) AND RED PEPPER BACON MINI TARTS (RIGHT)


KIMCHI AND GRUYÈRE PIZZA


EGG KNOW-HOW

Kimchi and Gruyère Pizzas MAKES 8 SERVINGS (2 PIZZAS)

Since kimchi has become as American as apple pie, it was bound to start showing up in non-Korean dishes. The tangy, salty pickled cabbage is a perfect foil for nutty Gruyère cheese on this exciting pizza. The homemade crust is easy, but if you are pinched for time, a pre-baked crust will do. Crust 2 cups unbleached flour 2 cups whole-wheat flour 1 teaspoon rapid-rise yeast 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons sugar or honey 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more for pans Topping 8 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded 1½ cups packed kimchi, drained and chopped 8 large eggs 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved 1⁄2 cup fresh basil, torn 1. For the crust: In a stand mixer or large bowl, combine flours, yeast, and salt. In a small saucepan or the microwave, warm 1½ cups water to 110°F to 115°F and add sugar or honey and oil to water, stir to dissolve. Mix wet ingredients into dry ingredients, kneading until dough comes away from bowl; it should be soft and pliable but not overly sticky. If sticking to your fingers, add flour—a couple tablespoons at a time—just to make a soft dough. Knead for 5 minutes, place dough in an oiled bowl, cover, and place near but not on stove. Let rise at least 1 hour. While dough rises, preheat oven to 450°F (for pre-baked crusts, preheat to 400°F). 2. To make pizza, lightly oil 2 rimless 14-inch-wide sheet pans. Divide dough in 2 pieces and form each into a disk. Place 1 disk per pan and press out to a circle that reaches edges. Sprinkle half of cheese over crusts and distribute kimchi over cheese, leaving 4 open spots for eggs. Crack an egg into each indentation and sprinkle remaining cheese over pizza, leaving yolks exposed. Place tomatoes between eggs. 3. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, reversing pans halfway through for even cooking. When egg whites are cooked and yolks are at desired doneness, remove pizzas from oven, top with basil, and slice each into 4 pieces with an egg centered in each.

Curious about folding egg whites? Egg whites are filled with long, springy proteins that, when beaten, link up to trap bubbles of air. Once those bubbles have been formed, it’s important to get the egg whites into the batter without deflating them. To preserve the structure, gently place the whipped egg whites on top of the rest of the batter, plunge a clean rubber spatula into the center of the bowl, scrape along the bottom of the bowl to the outside rim, and turn the bowl a quarter turn. Repeat until the mixture is evenly colored and mixed. Don’t overdo it; it’s better to have a few small streaks of white rather than a deflated batter. Ever wonder why some recipes call for room-temperature eggs? Room-temperature egg whites whip to a higher volume and stay aerated longer. Roomtemperature eggs added to creamed butter or melted chocolate will not cause the butter or chocolate to stiffen. Want to boil an egg? Really fresh eggs are the hardest to peel, so use eggs you have had in the refrigerator a few days. To avoid that telltale green line around the yolk, don’t overcook. Place the eggs in plenty of cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and remove from heat once at a full boil. Let stand, covered, 14 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water. Chill the eggs on their sides. If making deviled eggs, turn every 15 minutes for the first hour to center the yolks. Looking for tender scrambled eggs or crispy fried eggs? The same proteins in eggs that allow them to be whipped to a froth need delicate handling to avoid becoming tough. For the most tender scrambled eggs, cook over low heat, scraping up the lightly cooked egg from the bottom of the pan with a heat-safe spatula. For over-easy eggs with a crispy edge and runny yolk, cook over medium-high heat. Wondering about those dates on the carton? As long as eggs are kept chilled, they are good four to five weeks past the pack date. Once out of the shell, raw eggs (both yolks and whites) keep for two days. If you have a surplus, freeze them for up to a year in an airtight container. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight.

spring 2015 real food 33


Brie and Spinach Soufflé MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Soufflé is a classic French dish that many people think is both sophisticated and a challenge to make. It is easier than it seems. Learn the proper way to fold egg whites and proceed with confidence. This creamy, lofty side dish is laced with bright green spinach for even more appeal.

CHORIZO AND PEPPER JACK EGG BAKE

Chorizo and Pepper Jack Egg Bake MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Looking for a spicier way to start your morning? In this easy dish, you control the heat with hot or mild chorizo. If you prefer really mild, use plain Jack cheese instead of pepper Jack. 1 1 1 12 10 1½ 2 1⁄2 5 1 2 2

teaspoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing dish cup yellow onion, chopped medium red bell pepper, chopped ounces Mexican chorizo or other hot sausage, removed from casings and crumbled large eggs cups plain Greek yogurt teaspoons cumin teaspoon salt cups blue-corn tortilla chips, broken and divided cup shredded pepper Jack medium scallions, chopped large tomatoes, seeded and diced

1. Oil a 2-quart baking dish and set aside. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat, add onion and pepper, and sauté for 8-10 minutes, until soft. Add chorizo and cook for about 4 minutes, crumbling, until cooked through. Remove from heat and let cool. Preheat oven to 375°F. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs and yogurt. Whisk in cumin and salt. Spread 4 cups chips in dish and distribute half of chorizo mixture on top. Pour half of egg mixture evenly over meat and sprinkle over half of cheese. Distribute remaining meat and drizzle over egg mixture. Cover with remaining chips and scallions, and top with remaining cheese. 3. Bake 55 minutes, until golden and puffed in center. Serve slices garnished with tomatoes.

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1⁄4 cup shredded Parmesan 1⁄4 cup butter, plus more for greasing dish 1⁄4 cup flour 2 cups milk, at room temperature 4 ounces Brie, skin removed 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1⁄2 teaspoon white pepper pinch nutmeg 6 large eggs, at room temperature 1 10-ounce package frozen spinach, thawed and wrung dry 1. Grease 6 1-cup ramekins or a 6-cup soufflé dish. Dust with Parmesan to cover sides. Chill at least 10 minutes. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. To make béchamel, melt butter in a heavybottomed saucepan. Add flour and beat in with a wooden spoon. Whisk over low heat 3 minutes, until well mixed and bubbly, and remove from heat. Gradually whisk 2 tablespoons milk into roux until smooth. Repeat until all milk is incorporated and mixture is smooth. Return to heat. Cook 5-8 minutes, whisking, until smooth and bubbling. Whisk in Brie, remove from heat, and stir until cheese is melted and mixture is smooth. Let cool and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 3. Separate eggs, placing whites in a bowl and beating yolks into béchamel. Stir in spinach. With an electric beater, beat whites until stiff. Fold a dollop of whites into béchamel then gently fold in remaining whites. 4. Fill baking dish to top. Run finger around edge of eggs to make an indentation; this will create a cap that will rise evenly. Place on a sheet pan. For individual ramekins, bake 15 minutes, reduce heat to 375°F, and bake 25 to 30 minutes. For a large soufflé, bake 18 minutes, reduce heat to 375°F, and bake 30 to 40 minutes. When ready, tops will be very puffed and golden, and when pierced carefully with a paring knife, centers will have no raw eggs. Serve immediately. ■


NUTRITION

BRIE AND SPINACH SOUFFLÉ

CHORIZO & PEPPER JACK EGG BAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 506 (303 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 12g); CHOL 287mg; SODIUM 921mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 28g

BRIE & SPINACH SOUFFLÉ: PER SERVING: CALORIES 291 (182 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 11g); CHOL 233mg; SODIUM 586mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 17g

KIMCHI & GRUYÈRE PIZZAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 442 (154 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 7g); CHOL 218mg; SODIUM 630mg; CARB 49g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 23g

SUN-DRIED TOMATO & CHÈVRE EGGY MUFFINS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 151 (49 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 2g); CHOL 99mg; SODIUM 378mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 8g

RED PEPPER BACON MINI TARTS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 150 (96 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 3g); CHOL 85mg; SODIUM 219mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 5g


COCONUT CHICKEN CURRY (RECIPE PAGE 38)

36 real food spring 2015


Slow and Steady

When it comes to cooking, it’s a winning combination. BY JUDITH FINLAYSON

I became a slow-cooker convert almost 20 years ago when I discovered I could produce dishes that were every bit as tasty as those prepared on the stovetop or in the oven. In itself, this would not be a “eureka” moment. However, the slow cooker has a big advantage over more conventional cooking methods: It allows you to be in the kitchen when it suits your schedule. You can be away from home all day and return to find dinner ready and waiting. Although I’ll eat just about anything, deliciousness is a fundamental demand. That’s why I almost always take the extra steps of browning meat and softening vegetables in fat before adding them to the slow cooker. This process, known as caramelization, breaks down the natural sugars in food, creating flavor and enriching the taste of the final dish. Although it usually takes only 10 minutes, it may not be something you want to be doing in the midst of the morning rush. That’s why most of these recipes can be partially prepared ahead of time and refrigerated up to two days (meat, however cannot be browned in advance because partially cooked meat has not reached a temperature that inhibits bacterial growth). When you are ready to cook, simply assemble the prepped ingredients and turn on the appliance. Keep in mind, you’ll want to avoid lifting the slow cooker lid while your dish is cooking as it will release heat, which may slow down the cooking process and extend the cooking time needed. Not surprisingly, I use my slow cooker a lot—and not just to prepare dinner on busy weekdays. I often serve slow-cooker dishes when I’m entertaining. A well-kept secret is that the slow cooker makes fabulous desserts, like my Vanilla Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce, and easy wow-factor recipes, such as Tarragon-Spiked Salmon with Leeks. If you are using your slow cooker to ease the time crunch of weekdays, Coconut Chicken Curry and Chinese-Spiced Pork are ideal as the meat in these recipes does not require browning. If you are serving dinner to a vegan (and even if you aren’t), the Roasted Vegetable Ratatouille is, in my opinion, a perfect rendition of this classic Provençal dish.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS


Tarragon-Spiked Salmon with Leeks

Coconut Chicken Curry

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This is a perfect dish for entertaining because you can prepare the leeks ahead of time, plunk them into the slow cooker, and add the salmon just before guests arrive. By the time you have finished drinks and appetizers, this elegant mélange is ready to serve.

This simple chicken curry punches above its weight. The sweet green peas add color, nutrients, and visual appeal (the measurment range in the ingredient list allows you to suit your taste). I love the look and heat that a thinly sliced, fresh chili adds, though it’s certainly not necessary. Serve this with a big bowl of steamed rice for a no-fuss, practically one-pot meal.

2 tablespoons butter 4 leeks, white part and a bit of green, cleaned and thinly sliced 1 teaspoon dried tarragon salt freshly ground pepper, preferably white ½ cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 1 1½-pound salmon fillet ½ cup heavy cream finely snipped chives 1. Preheat slow cooker on high 15 minutes. (See Cook’s Notes) 2. In a skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add leeks and cook 8 minutes, stirring, until softened and beginning to brown. Add tarragon and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir well. Add wine, bring to a boil, and boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vinegar. Transfer to slow cooker, spreading evenly. 3. Place salmon on top of mixture, skin side up. Place a piece of parchment paper over the mixture, pressing it down to brush the food and extending up sides of the stoneware to overlap the rim. Cover and cook on high 1 hour and 15 minutes, until fish flakes easily when pieced with a knife. 4. To serve, lift out parchment and discard, taking care not to spill liquid into slow cooker. Transfer fish to a warm platter and keep warm, removing skin if desired. Add cream to sauce, stir well, and add salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over salmon and garnish liberally with chives. Cook’s Notes This recipe can be doubled using a large, oval slow cooker long enough to accommodate a whole salmon fillet (about 3 pounds). Expect a lengthier cooking time (15 to 20 minutes longer) depending on the thickness of the fillet. The leeks can be prepared and refrigerated up to 2 days before cooking. Because the dish cooks for a relatively short time (in slowcooker terms), warm them on the stovetop before adding to the slow cooker. Similarly, because this recipe cooks for such a short time, warming the slow cooker ahead of time ensures the food will cook in a timely fashion. For a more intensive tarragon flavor, use white wine vinegar infused with tarragon. For a nonalcoholic option, substitute ½ cup fish stock and 2 teaspoons lemon juice for the white wine. I like to use parchment when cooking the salmon because it ensures the ingredients cook in their own juices, without the additional liquid from steam during cooking, ensuring more concentrated flavor. But you may omit this step if desired. Your sauce will be slightly diluted in flavor but still delicious.

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1 tablespoon oil 2 onions, halved and thinly sliced on the vertical 4 cloves minced garlic 1 tablespoon minced ginger 1 cinnamon stick 1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice ½ cup chicken stock 2 pounds skinless bone-in chicken thighs 1 tablespoon curry powder 1 14-ounce can coconut milk 1 to 2 cups frozen peas, thawed 1 red finger chili, very thinly sliced (optional) finely chopped cilantro (optional) 1. In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook 3 minutes, stirring, until softened. Add garlic, ginger, and cinnamon stick and cook 1 minute, stirring, until fragrant. Add tomatoes and stock, and stir well. 2. Arrange chicken in slow cooker. Pour over braising mixture. Cover and cook on low 6 hours or on high 3 hours, until chicken is falling off bone. 3. In a small bowl, combine curry powder with ¼ cup coconut milk. Mix until blended. Add to slow cooker along with remaining coconut milk, peas, and chili. Cover and cook on high 10 minutes, until peas are tender. Garnish with cilantro before serving. Cook’s Notes For a more complex flavor, substitute 2 teaspoons garam masala for the cinnamon stick. The braising mixture can be prepared and refrigerated up to 2 days in advance. Chicken thighs do better in the slow cooker than chicken breasts, which have a tendency to become dry. If you prefer to use chicken breasts, leave on skin and brown before placing in the slow cooker. Reduce initial cooking time to 2½ hours on low or 1 hour and 15 minutes on high.


TARRAGON-SPIKED SALMON WITH LEEKS AND ROASTED VEGETABLE RATATOUILLE (RECIPE PAGE 41)


CHINESE-SPICED PORK

40 real food spring 2015


Chinese-Spiced Pork

Roasted Vegetable Ratatouille

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

This impressive dish is extremely easy to make. Serve with a platter of stir-fried bok choy and a bowl of steaming rice. Leftovers reheat well and make a great sandwich spread with mustard.

This is a particularly delicious ratatouille. Not only does roasting the vegetables intensify their flavors, it makes this recipe convenient to prepare. It is vegan-friendly served alongside roasted squash, hot orzo, or a bowl of steaming rice. Or, it can also be used as a hearty side to accompany grilled meat or fish.

4 1 1 1 ½ 1 1⁄3 1⁄3 2 2 ¼

cloves puréed garlic tablespoon puréed ginger teaspoon coarse sea salt teaspoon cracked black peppercorns teaspoon Chinese 5-spice powder zest of 1 orange 3-pound piece trimmed pork butt or shoulder cup soy sauce cup orange juice tablespoons dry sherry or vodka (optional) tablespoons raw cane or coconut sugar cup chopped scallions

1. In a small bowl, combine garlic, ginger, salt, peppercorns, 5-spice powder, and orange zest. Rub over meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight or up to 24 hours, turning several times. 2. When ready to cook, combine soy sauce, juice, sherry, if using, and sugar in a bowl. Stir until sugar dissolves. 3. Place meat in slow cooker and cover with sauce. Cover and cook on low 6 to 7 hours or on high 3 hours, until pork is almost falling apart. Sprinkle evenly with scallions. To serve, cut meat into chunks and spoon over pan juices. Cook’s Notes To purée the garlic and ginger, use a sharp-toothed grater. Pork butt has abundant marbling but no outer layer of fat. If the meat has a layer of fat, remove it before cooking. Or, if time permits, when ready to cook, place the marinaded pork under the broiler until the fat browns, about 15 minutes, before adding to the slow cooker. Score the fat before covering with the rub to allow the seasoning to penetrate.

SLOW COOKER TIPS • Most dishes can be cooked on either the High or Low setting. In general terms, when cooking on High reduce the cooking time by half if the time is given for Low. • Do not use your slow cooker to reheat food. The temperature does not reach the “safety zone” (165°F) quickly enough to kill bacteria.

¼ 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 4

cup olive oil, divided bell peppers quartered onions zucchini, quartered lengthwise small eggplant, quartered lengthwise bulb garlic, separated and unpeeled pound cremini mushrooms, stems removed 14.5-ounce cans diced fire-roasted tomatoes sprigs fresh thyme salt freshly ground black pepper

1. Lightly grease 2 rimmed baking sheets. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Place 3 tablespoons oil in a large bowl. Add peppers, toss to coat, and transfer to a sheet. Toss onion, zucchini, and eggplant in oil and add to sheet (they will fit tightly). Roast 30 minutes, turning once or twice, until tender and lightly browned. Remove from oven. Transfer peppers to a bowl, cover, and set aside to sweat. 3. Meanwhile, add remaining oil to bowl. Add garlic and mushrooms, and toss to coat. Place mushrooms on second sheet, stem side down. Arrange garlic over sheet. Roast 20 minutes, until mushrooms are shriveled and brown on bottom and garlic is lightly browned. Remove from oven. Add zucchini to covered bowl with peppers and refrigerate. 4. When cool enough to handle, cut eggplant crosswise into thirds and add to slow cooker. Squeeze garlic out of cloves and add to slow cooker. Add mushrooms, onion, tomatoes, and thyme, and stir well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on low 6 hours or on high 3 hours, until hot and bubbly. 5. Meanwhile, when peppers are thoroughly chilled, remove skin and cut into thin strips. Cut zucchini crosswise into thirds. Add to slow cooker, along with any accumulated juices, and cook on high 15 minutes, until zucchini is heated through. Cook’s Notes The vegetables can be roasted the night before and refrigerated. When ready to cook, add to the slow cooker with the tomatoes and thyme. The peppers are very easy to peel when refrigerated overnight. Both peppers and zucchini do not stand up to long cooking, which is why they are added at the end of the recipe. If you prefer, substitute plain diced canned tomatoes for the fire-roasted. Their flavor will be less intense, but the results will be equally delicious.

spring 2015 real food 41


Vanilla Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce MAKES 8 SERVINGS

One of the best-kept secrets is how well the slow cooker performs when it comes to desserts. Case in point: this rich, custardy comfort-food dessert, which just loves the slow cooker’s low, moist heat. It’s an old favorite from my childhood. Since then, I’ve visited New Orleans, and I can’t resist taking a page from that city’s playbook with an adult-friendly dollop of bourbon sauce. Vanilla Bread Pudding 6 slices 1-inch-thick white bread ¼ cup softened butter ½ cup currants or raisins 3 cups milk ½ cup raw cane or coconut sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon pinch salt 4 eggs 2 egg yolks 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 tablespoons granulated sugar (optional)

Bourbon Sauce ¼ cup butter ¼ cup raw cane or coconut sugar ½ cup heavy cream 1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons bourbon

1. For the bread pudding: Butter bread on both sides and cut into cubes. Place in a large mixing bowl. Add currants and toss. 2. In a saucepan, combine milk, cane sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Cook over low heat, stirring, until bubbles form around edges and sugar dissolves. Remove from heat. 3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, beat together eggs, yolks, and vanilla. Beat in about ¼ cup of the milk mixture, return to saucepan, and whisk well. 4. Pour mixture through a sieve over bread and stir will. Cover with plastic wrap and, using your hands, push bread down to submerge in liquid. Set aside 10 minutes or cover and refrigerate overnight, pushing bread down into liquid once or twice. 5. When ready to cook, transfer to a lightly greased, 8-cup deep baking or soufflé dish. Cover with foil, leaving room for pudding to expand, and secure around rim with a silicone band. Place dish in a large, oval slow cooker and add enough boiling water to come 1 inch up sides. Cover and cook on high 3 to 4 hours, until pudding is puffed and set. 6. Meanwhile, preheat broiler. Remove foil and sprinkle granulated sugar evenly over top of pudding. Place under broiler 2 minutes, until sugar glazes. Serve warm. 7. For the bourbon sauce: When you are ready to serve the pudding, in a small saucepan, melt butter and sugar until bubbly and lightly caramelized. Stir in cream and heat until bubbles form around the edges. Meanwhile, beat egg yolk in a small bowl. Add about 2 tablespoons of the milk mixture and whisk well. Add to saucepan and cook over very low heat, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat back of a spoon. Remove from heat and stir in bourbon. Serve immediately.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Notes Before preparing this pudding, ensure the baking dish will fit in the slow cooker. A deep, square dish (about 7 inches wide) or a large soufflé dish fit comfortably in an oval slow cooker and are easy to lift out with silicone oven mitts. If you are using a large, round slow cooker, which will be much trickier to manage, make two long “handles” of aluminum foil (fold 2 long pieces in half lengthwise). Place at right angles to each other on bottom and up side of the slow cooker to form a sling, with four lengths of foil, allowing each to overhang the top of the casing. You want the foil to come up the sides of the slow cooker and extend beyond the stoneware insert and over the sides so you have a good piece of foil to grab onto. ■

TARRAGON-SPIKED SALMON W. LEEKS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 485 (251 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 13g); CHOL 148mg; SODIUM 162mg; CARB 14g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 40g

COCONUT CHICKEN CURRY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 385 (195 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 14g); CHOL 118mg; SODIUM 256mg; CARB 17g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 30g

CHINESE-SPICED PORK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 263 (128 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 5g); CHOL 75mg; SODIUM 843mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 26g

ROASTED VEGETABLE RATATOUILLE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 152 (65 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 248mg; CARB 20g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 5g

VANILLA BREAD PUDDING W. BOURBON SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 447 (199 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 12g); CHOL 212mg; SODIUM 384mg; CARB 50g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 11g


PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

44 real food spring 2015


chocolate chocolate chocolate The beloved confection is king when it comes to sweets. BY JULIE HASSON

DARK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES (RECIPE PAGE 49)

spring 2015 real food 45


CHOCOLATE CHERRY RED WINE TORTE

46 real food spring 2015


Just mention chocolate and see how quickly people smile. We reach for it when we are having a bad day or need an afternoon pick-me-up. And fortunately for chocolate lovers, the research says it is good for our health, too. These recipes are a fun collection to serve to guests or to whip up during a chocolate craving. They are easy-to-make, healthier twists on classic favorites, including some gluten-free options. And in recipes that call for butter, you can substitute a non-hydrogenated margarine in equal measure for a dairy-free option. When making chocolate desserts where the flavor shines through, it is key to use a high-quality chocolate. I look for one I enjoy eating on its own; one that melts in my mouth without leaving a waxy flavor.

Chocolate Cherry Red Wine Torte MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

This fudgy, cherry-studded chocolate cake topped with a chocolate red wine glaze is crazy good—and a surefire way to win over friends. Bonus: It’s gluten-free! Cake 3⁄4 cup gluten-free oat flour 1⁄2 cup sorghum flour 1⁄2 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder 1⁄3 cup potato starch 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon xanthan gum 3⁄4 teaspoon baking soda 1⁄8 teaspoon salt 1 cup packed brown sugar 1⁄4 cup sugar

1⁄3 1 1 1 3⁄4

cup canola oil cup Cabernet wine teaspoon vanilla extract teaspoon almond extract cup frozen pitted cherries, thawed and drained but not squeezed dry 1⁄3 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Glaze 4 ounces semisweet chocolate chips 3 tablespoons Cabernet wine

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and line bottom and sides of an 8-inch, round metal baking pan with parchment paper. 2. For the cake: In a large bowl, whisk together flours, cocoa powder, potato starch, baking powder, xanthan gum, baking soda, and salt. Whisk in sugars until well-mixed. Add oil, wine, vanilla, and almond extract and whisk until smooth. Batter will be very thick. Stir in cherries and chocolate chips. 3. Spread into pan, smoothing top. Bake 45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean or with just a touch of melted chocolate from chocolate chips. Cake will feel pretty firm to the touch. Remove from oven and let cool completely in pan. Once cool, carefully remove from pan by inverting upside down onto a serving plate. Gently peel off parchment. 4. For the glaze: In top of a double boiler over barely simmering water, combine chocolate chips and wine. As chocolate starts to soften, gently stir with a spatula until chocolate is melted, wine is incorporated, and glaze is smooth. Continue stirring 3 minutes, until glaze thickens a little. 5. Spoon glaze over cake and, using a spatula or back of a spoon, spread in an even layer. Gently spread glaze so it drips down sides of cake but doesn’t pool. Refrigerate several hours or overnight to make cake texture fudgier. If desired, gently dust over a little powdered sugar just before serving. Cake will keep, covered in plastic wrap, refrigerated 5 days. Cook’s Note Fresh or dried, pitted cherries can be substituted for the frozen Bing or sour cherries.

spring 2015 real food 47


CHOCOLATE MINT SILK TART

48 real food spring 2015


Chocolate Mint Silk Tart

Dark Chocolate Truffles

MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

MAKES 30 TRUFFLES

This gluten-free sweet treat will have your guests begging for the recipe. It is rich, decadent, and full of silky chocolate mint flavor. No one will ever guess the secret ingredient (silken tofu).

These chocolates are amazingly delicious—and glutenand dairy-free, too. Finish the truffles however you desire, from dipping in chocolate to rolling in shredded coconut or chopped nuts.

Tart Shell 20 gluten-free cream-filled chocolate sandwich cookies 1 cup pecans 4 tablespoons melted butter Filling 14 ounces high-quality dark chocolate, coarsely chopped 17 ounces firm silken tofu (about 1⅓ 12.3-ounce packages) 1⁄3 cup plain soy or almond milk 1 tablespoon agave syrup 1⁄4 teaspoon pure peppermint oil (or 1⁄2 teaspoon pure peppermint extract) 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 10-inch glass or ceramic tart pan. 2. For the tart shell: In bowl of food processor with metal blade, pulse cookies and pecans until finely ground. Add butter and pulse until well mixed. Scoop into pan and evenly press onto bottom and sides. Bake 10 minutes, remove from oven, and let cool completely. 3. For the filling: In a microwave-safe bowl, gently heat chocolate on high 25 seconds. Stir and heat 30 seconds. Stir until completely melted, smooth, and shiny; if not completely melted after stirring, heat 15 to 20 seconds. 4. In bowl of food processor with metal blade, blend tofu and milk, scraping down sides as needed, until smooth. Add chocolate, agave, and peppermint oil and blend until smooth and creamy. 5. Spread chocolate mixture into tart shell and refrigerate 2 to 3 hours, or until firm enough to slice. If desired, top with chocolate shavings.

Cook’s Notes A metal tart tin with a removable bottom will work, too. Grease well and take care when removing the sides of the pan. The chocolate can be melted in a double boiler or pan (see Dark Chocolate Truffles recipe “To chocolate dip, step 1” for instructions). Regular cream-filled chocolate sandwich cookies can be substituted for gluten-free in equal measure and without any recipe alterations needed. The tart can be made up to one day ahead and stored, loosely covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator. It can keep there for a couple days, though the crust may then become slightly soggy.

18 ounces high-quality dark chocolate, coarsely chopped 2⁄3 cup canned coconut milk unsweetened cocoa powder, shredded coconut, or finely chopped nuts, for coating 1. Combine 8 ounces chocolate and coconut milk in a large, heatproof bowl. Set over pan of simmering water and heat, stirring, until melted. Remove saucepan from heat, keeping bowl over water. 2. Scoop into a glass or ceramic bowl. Let cool 15 minutes then refrigerate several hours, until chocolate is firm enough to scoop. 3. Scoop chocolate by heaping teaspoons, shape into balls, and either roll in toppings (such as shredded coconut or chopped nuts) or dip in chocolate and roll in cocoa powder. To coat truffles with toppings: 1. Place shredded coconut, chopped nuts, or other toppings of choice in a shallow bowl, roll truffle in topping to coat well, and serve or place in an airtight container. If they have softened up from rolling, they should be refrigerated for an hour or two to firm up before serving. To chocolate dip: 1. Melt remaining chocolate in a large, heatproof bowl. Set over pan of simmering water and heat, stirring, until melted. Remove saucepan from heat, keeping bowl over water. Using a fork, gently dip truffles into chocolate and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Refrigerate 30 to 60 minutes, until coating is firm. 2. Place cocoa powder in a shallow bowl. Once truffles have a firm chocolate shell, gently roll in cocoa powder and place in mini muffin liners. Truffles will keep several weeks in an airtight container in refrigerator until ready to serve; do not freeze.

Cook’s Notes For a softer truffle, use 3⁄4 cup coconut milk. If desired, replace 2 tablespoons dark rum for 2 tablespoons coconut milk. Chocolate can be melted in the microwave (see Chocolate Mint Silk Tart recipe, step 3, for instructions). Have fun with this recipe: You can stir add-ins into the truffles (after step 1), from dried cherries or diced candied ginger to tangerine or orange zest. You can even form the truffles around a fresh raspberry.

spring 2015 real food 49


Orange Cupcakes with Creamy Chocolate Frosting

Chocolate Chip Espresso Coins

MAKES 12 CUPCAKES

Sometimes nothing will do but a warm chocolate chip cookie. These are especially satisfying with the deep flavor of caramel, coffee, and cinnamon. The coconut oil really shines, giving these cookies a rich flavor, almost reminiscent of a chocolate bar. And, the recipe can be easily doubled.

Orange and chocolate perfectly complement each other in these delectable cupcakes. The flavor elevates them from standard cupcake fare, making them something special. Cupcakes 1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour 1⁄4 cup potato starch 2 teaspoons baking powder 1⁄8 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 cup sugar 1⁄2 cup canola oil 1⁄2 cup almond milk 1⁄2 cup fresh orange juice zest of 1 orange, grated 1⁄4 teaspoon pure orange oil Frosting 2 cups powdered sugar, sifted 1⁄2 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder 1⁄4 cup butter, softened 3 tablespoons almond milk 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin. 2. For the cupcakes: In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, potato starch, baking powder, and salt until well-mixed. In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, oil, milk, juice, orange zest, and orange oil. Add flour mixture to sugar mixture, whisking just until smooth. 3. Scoop evenly into pan. Bake 25 to 35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean and tops of cupcakes spring back when lightly touched. Remove from oven and let sit 5 minutes before removing to a cooling rack to cool completely. 4. For the frosting: In a medium bowl or bowl of stand mixer, combine all ingredients. Mix on low until incorporated then mix on high until super fluffy. Add milk for desired consistency. Put a big dollop frosting on top of each cupcake and use back of a spoon to swirl. Cook’s Note To kick up the chocolate flavor, add 1⁄3 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips or chopped semisweet or dark chocolate bar to the batter right before you put it into the muffin tin.

50 real food spring 2015

MAKES 16 COOKIES

1 cup all-purpose flour, spooned and leveled 1 teaspoon finely ground bold coffee, such as French roast or espresso 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder 1⁄4 teaspoon baking soda 1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin coconut oil, melted 2⁄3 cup lightly packed brown sugar 2 tablespoons milk 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1⁄2 cup semisweet chocolate chips 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, coffee, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. 3. In a large mixing bowl or bowl of stand mixer, combine coconut oil, brown sugar, milk, and vanilla. Beat until smooth and emulsified. Add dry ingredients, mixing just until incorporated. Stir in chocolate chips. 4. Using a tablespoon, scoop batter onto sheets. Lightly flatten tops with fingers. If dough sticks to your fingers, lightly wet them. 5. Bake 10 minutes, until puffed and golden. Cookies should be somewhat soft to the touch. Remove from oven and cool completely on sheets. If cookies are puffy, gently press tops with a fork to spread them open a bit with a crack on top. Cookies will keep a few days in an airtight bag or container or freeze for a month or longer. Cook’s Note These cookies can go gluten-free by substituting 1 cup all-purpose gluten-free flour blend. If the flour doesn’t contain xanthan gum, add ½ teaspoon to the recipe. ■

WHAT IS DUTCH-PROCESS COCOA POWDER? Both Dutch-process and natural cocoa powders are made from dried and roasted cocoa beans that have been ground into a powder. The difference lies in how they are processed. Cocoa is naturally acidic. Dutch-process cocoa powder has been rinsed with a potassium carbonate solution, which neutralizes its acidity. Dutch-process cocoa is much darker and has a richer and smoother chocolate flavor. Since natural cocoa powder has not been alkalized, it is more acidic and has a much lighter color. The two cocoa powders are not usually interchangeable in recipes.


NUTRITION

ORANGE CUPCAKES WITH CREAMY CHOCOLATE FROSTING AND CHOCOLATE CHIP ESPRESSO COINS

CHOCOLATE CHERRY RED WINE TORTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 352 (120 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 4g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 212mg; CARB 57g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 4g

CHOCOLATE MINT SILK TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 492 (292 from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 14g); CHOL 15mg; SODIUM 156mg; CARB 42g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 8g

DARK CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 110 (67 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 5g); CHOL 1mg; SODIUM 2mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 1g

CHOCOLATE CHIP ESPRESSO COINS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 114 (36 from fat); FAT 4g (sat. 3g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 76mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

ORANGE CUPCAKES W. CREAMY CHOCOLATE FROSTING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 347 (133 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 4g); CHOL 10mg; SODIUM 154mg; CARB 54g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 2g


Supermarket Superwoman BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Melissa d’Arabian on feeding a family healthfully, easily, and affordably—with joy. IT STARTED WITH YOGURT. “I made a video on how to make yogurt at home,” Melissa d’Arabian explains, “because I had these young kids who liked yogurt, and I figured out I could save $140 a month by making it myself.” That video landed her an audition for season five of The Next Food Network Star in October 2008. Now she’s the star of the Food Network’s Ten Dollar Dinners and the lead judge on Guy’s Grocery Games, the author of a weekly Associated Press food column as well as the best-selling book Ten Dollar Dinners. She also happens to have four children under the age of nine—and often hosts her sister’s family from down the street, which includes another five kids. Her experiences in dealing with children’s tastes led her to launch another show in October 2013, The Picky Eaters Project Project, a web series in which she and her family work on expanding their palates and appreciation for food. So when she came out with her newest cookbook, Supermarket Healthy Healthy—a compendium of dishes that hone to her usual requirements of health, accessibility, and affordability yet also display an envious degree of creativity and flair—I had to ask, “How did a former corporate finance executive become a home cooking guru?” D’Arabian laughs when I ask her about her trajectory, catching her on the phone one early Monday morning. “I became a stay-at-home mom with four girls in diapers,” she says. “And I began thinking, wow, this is a lot of diapers, a lot of wipes. What can I do to reduce the financial impact here?” With a masters of business administration from Georgetown University, and years advising large corporations on their financials, she is well equipped to answer this question, and an obvious place to start was in the kitchen. (Not that she ever stops there: “I’m an over-analyzer. My husband teases me. When we met I was looking for an apartment in Paris, and I’d created an Excel spreadsheet of cofactors.”)

D’Arabian also grew up cooking on a budget, helping out her mom, who raised her single-handedly while going to med school. She continued the theme in grad school, taking a job as a cook for another family to pay her bills. Budgeting is second nature for her in the kitchen. What sets her apart from other cookbook authors is that she is not one of those people who raves over the joys of cooking; in fact, she readily admits it’s hard to carve out the time to cook when you’re working, raising children, going to school, or juggling any number of activities— and it’s that much harder when you have many palates to please. But, she points out, if you can master some basic skills, it gives you great power—over your money, your time and your health—and it’s a prime place to tackle some of the most basic issues of raising a family. “Although the book has ‘healthy’ in the title, I think of it more as a mindful eating book,” says d’Arabian. “It’s about spending and eating with purpose and intent.” To this end, she encourages people to think about how they want to spend their money, and to devise their plan of attack around this. For her, for example, although food at a farmer’s market is often more expensive than the sale shelf at the grocery store, the entertainment value of the occasional farmer’s market trip makes it a worthy splurge for her family.

spring 2015 real food 53


If you can master some basic skills, it gives you great power— over your money, your time and your health— and it’s a prime place to tackle some of the most basic issues of raising a family. —Melissa d’Arabian

MELISSA AND HUSBAND PHILIPPE WITH THEIR DAUGHTERS

54 real food spring 2015

range of palates. “My sister has five kids, two vegetarians; I have a daughter who’s glutenfree; for me, flexibility is key.” So rather than spending a large amount on, say, boneless chicken breasts, she’ll buy two, cook them and slice them, and serve them as a side to a meatless main. “Two breasts, six people— that’s about two or three ounces per person, instead of six or eight,” she points out. Then she’ll lay out a number of other dishes—“we have ‘feasts’ instead of dinner,” she says, “lots of options on the table, and lots of veggies.” It might be a little more work, but, let’s face it, if you have one pan of boiling water going, it’s not so hard to have two, and to cook up some carrots at the same time you’re making the broccoli. It’s also simply a way to up the chances that everyone will leave the table well fed. “I’m a big believer in one plate for everyone, but this is a big challenge,” she admits. “If I’m at 75 percent on any one dish, I’m feeling like it’s smooth sailing. Usually, I’m at about 50 percent. But I know that everything I’m serving them I can feel good about serving them.” It also cuts down on negativity, and gives her girls a degree of control—something children crave. “You know what, if they end up eating just brown rice and some vegetables on the side, they’ll survive,” she says. Nobody is forced to eat anything in her house. “Although I’d like to insist that they taste everything, I want to raise my daughters knowing that their opinion counts,” she says. “And although it may seem relatively benign to insist that they eat something, if we regularly have our opinions disregarded, we start to believe that they aren’t worth much.” Food is so closely linked with emotion and body image that it’s a particularly dangerous arena in which to have power wars, she points out. The kids—or husband, for that matter— may never come around to some particular food, but sometimes repeated exposure does, in fact, lead to acceptance. D’Arabian gives me a vivid example: “Océane—for the last three years, she’s been our salad girl,” says d’Arabian. “She loves to go to the store, pick out the greens, wash them, spin them, toss them with vinaigrette—she’s been whipping up vinaigrette since she was four. But until this last Saturday night—over three-and-a-half years of making salads— she never ate leafy greens.” “I honestly have no idea where it came from,” d’Arabian continues, “but all of a

ABOVE COURTESY OF MELISSA D’ARABIAN; BELOW COURTESY OF FOOD NETWORK.COM

MELISSA AND DAUGHTER CHARLOTTE ON SET AT KATIE COURIC’S SHOW

Likewise, she encourages people to think about what ingredients they wouldn’t want to live without, and then find ways to include them within reason. “I want the dinner table to be a place of nourishment, not deprivation,” she says. For instance, she says, “I know there are the health reasons for cutting down on meat, and it’s also more economic. Meat is always the most expensive thing on the plate. But I love meat.” Rather than cut it out of her diet, she flips the ratio of meat to other ingredients. “Beans are one of my favorite tricks: If you put a piece of chicken or fish over beans, you’re just going to eat less meat.” She also keeps a stock of whole-grain pasta, different types of rice, and quinoa in the pantry— grains that store well and can easily fill out a meal that’s light on meat. Plus, she points out, “If you cut down on the meat, you can splurge in the produce aisle.” Go ahead and buy the organically grown greens and the really beautiful peakseason asparagus; take what you might have spent on a steak and splash it out on the fancy Haas avocados rather than the waxy, flavorless ones that are always cheaper (they are cheaper for a reason, you know). She also points out that flexibility is a great advantage when it comes to feeding a


sudden she decided to try a piece of baby spinach, and she decided she liked it. She liked it so much that last night, she asked if we could have spinach again.” You can bet that d’Arabian procured some spinach for the girl—but, she stresses, she was happy even before Océane decided she liked it. “I considered it a victory that she liked making salad. She was developing a positive relationship with leafy greens, even if it didn’t include eating them.” “I really believe that there’s huge value in them sitting at the table with rich, diverse healthy dishes, even if they don’t eat them,” she says. “I work hard not to dwell on the ‘you have to’ but instead to celebrate the prettiness of a dish, the health-giving attributes of it. If they try it and don’t like it, there’s no shame; we’ll try it again in a few months.” The important part, d’Arabian says, is that they understand that food is packed with nutrients, and can empower them to be healthy and strong. It’s a good reminder even for those of us old enough to care for ourselves. Instead of bellyaching about how hard it is to cook affordably and well given our limited time while we eat some greasy takeout, perhaps we should just spend a tiny bit more time thinking about what we eat. D’Arabian has already done a bunch of the hard work for us. In that spirit, here’s a favorite recipe of hers to ring in springtime—an asparagus soup she likes to whip up for lunch on the days she works at home. From start to finish, it takes about 15 minutes, and is pretty enough to serve for a first course at a fancy dinner, too. Live it up. Cook a little. ■

PHOTOS AND RECIPES REPRINTED FROM SUPERMARKET HEALTHY: RECIPES AND KNOW-HOW FOR EATING WELL WITHOUT SPENDING A LOT. COPYRIGHT © 2014 BY MELISSA D’ARABIAN. PHOTOGRAPHS © 2014 BY TINA RUPP. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER, AN IMPRINT OF RANDOM HOUSE LLC.

Almost Raw Asparagus Soup MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This incredibly quick and simple soup is a wonderful way to highlight asparagus. The asparagus is roasted in the oven just long enough to bring out its sweetness, and then it is puréed until smooth. Lemon zest and mint just seem so right with the asparagus. I like the crunch that toasted almonds add, but of course they can be eliminated for a nut-free version. 1½ 2 ¾ ¼ ¼ 1½

pounds asparagus, tough ends snapped off teaspoons olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper cup sliced almonds cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint leaves ¼ cup plain nonfat or reduced-fat yogurt

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the asparagus in a baking dish or on a baking sheet and drizzle with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil, the salt, and pepper and roast the asparagus until it is just al dente, about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. 2. While the asparagus cools, place the almonds on a clean rimmed baking sheet and toast until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the almonds to a plate and set aside. 3. Add the asparagus to a blender along with the chicken broth and 1 cup water and purée until it is very smooth, about 2 minutes. Return the puréed asparagus to a medium saucepan (strain through a fine-mesh sieve if you want a very smooth texture) and stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil, the lemon zest, and mint. Warm the soup over medium heat. 4. Divide the soup among 4 bowls. Top each with 1 tablespoon of the yogurt and serve sprinkled with the toasted almonds.

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pairings

Classic Companion Raise a glass with an old friend. BY MARY SUBIALKA

I

nvite an old friend to dinner—Chardonnay. It’s a classic go-to white for good reason as it pairs well with fish, chicken, and a variety of dishes. So favored, but like the crowded restaurant hotspot that people say is “so popular nobody goes there anymore,” ubiquitous Chardonnay spurred an Anything But Chardonnay (ABC) movement in recent years as wine drinkers protested mundane overly oaky offerings that lost some of the varietal’s inherent qualities. But the ABC era seems to be a thing of the past as more Chardonnay producers are offering up interesting bottlings that highlight this light- to medium-bodied wine that can have faint apple and sometimes vegetal flavors with fresh, lemony acidity, which is the essence of unoaked Chardonnay. Those aged in oak may have a more buttery flavor with hints of vanilla. And in California’s Napa Valley, coastal effects allow for a longer growing season, giving the fruit more time on the vines and helping produce energetic acidity and flavorful fruit. Go ahead and try it with dinner again. It’s okay to like it. ■

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food spring 2015


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Lunds and Byerly's REAL FOOD Spring 2015  
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