N DA IE L BO UD UL
Lunds and Byerly’s
:“ M Y FR EN CH I CU SI ” NE
LUN AND B DS YER KITCH LY 'S EN
A new first-of kind fo itsdestina od tion! (PAGE 14)
Brighten your favorite foods
SALMON IN BLOOD-ORANGE SAUCE OVER LEMONY SPINACH RICE (RECIPE PAGE 23)
BISTRO BRUNCH: A French accent to your midday meal SPIRITED DISHES: Lend a shot of sophistication to your cooking TERRIFIC TURMERIC: Fresh, fragrant, sumptuous, and healthy
BELLINGHAM The Waterstone Collection TM
ask the expert Ask DR. CRUTCHFIELD:
SKIN CARE ADVICE FROM AN EXPERT ACNE TREATMENT Why Should I Care About Acne?
cne is a very common skin condition that affects over 90% of people at some point in their lives. When adolescents are developing a strong sense of self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it bothers the patient, it should be treated.
What Causes Acne?
cne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest, and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands. All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to the oil as a food source. These types of bacteria can also cause inflammation in the skin.
How Common Is Acne?
cne is genetically determined, running in families. As oil glands in the skin become activated by hormones during adolescence, we first start to see acne. Unfortunately, acne doesn’t always disappear when we leave our teens. I treat many patients with acne into their 20s, 30s, and even beyond.
treatments are designed to clear acne up completely. This is one of the biggest concerns my patients express to me. They are using medicine to treat acne, and while they say their condition is better, they still have acne. The treatments make the condition better compared to not using any type of treatment, but they will not necessarily make acne 100% clear. There is one very effective medicine for the total clearing of acne, but it has side effects that need to be monitored carefully under the direction of a dermatologist.
What Action Steps Can Be Taken Now For Addressing My Acne?
• Treat acne as soon as you notice it. • While there are many topical over-the-counter preparations, consult with a board-certified dermatologist to identify the best treatment plan. • Always use very gentle, non-abrasive, non-harsh cleansers and moisturizers. • If problems persist after initial treatment, inform your dermatologist to revise your treatment plan. Treating acne appropriately and early can prevent low self-esteem, discomfort, and scars that last a lifetime. Visit CrutchfieldDermatology.com for more information. Follow us on Facebook and on Twitter @CrutchfieldDerm.
How Is Acne Treated?
cne can be treated by unplugging the pores, reducing inflammation, reducing bacteria, or actively decreasing oil production. Topical preparations like chemical peels or salicylic acid will unplug follicles, while topical antibiotic solutions will decrease bacteria and certain acne creams can reduce inflammation. Other medications and lasers can also decrease oil production. One of the best kept secrets when it comes to treating acne is that the vast majority of acne treatments are designed to improve acne, but very few
Acne patient treated by Dr. Crutchfield
Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD, is a graduate of the Mayo Clinic Medical School and a Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School. Dr. Crutchfield is an annual selection in the “Top Doctors” issue of Mpls. St. Paul magazine, and is the only dermatologist to have been selected as a “Best Doctor for Women” by Minnesota Monthly magazine since the inception of the survey. Dr. Crutchfield has also been selected as one of the “Best Doctors in America,” an honor awarded to only 4% of all practicing physicians. Dr. Crutchfield is the co-author of a children’s book on sun protection and dermatology textbook. He is a HETIC member of the AOA National Medical Honor Society, an expert consultant for WebMD and CNN, and a T S AE recipient of the Karis Humanitarian Award from the Mayo Clinic School of Medicine. L OF APPROVA L SEA
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real food spring 2014
Features 18 Celebrate Citrus Infuse your meal with the sunny sweet tang of citrus. BY ROBIN ASBELL
26 Spirited Dishes Add depth of flavor to your favorite dish with a shot of wine, beer, or spirit. BY SERENA BASS
36 Bistro Brunch
44 Terrific Turmeric
An indulgent French accent for a leisurely, satisfying midday meal.
The beloved golden spice is synonymous with health and flavor.
BY JASON ROSS
BY NINA SIMONDS
52 Farm to Restaurant Acclaimed French Chef Daniel Boulud reveals the breadth of his inspirations. BY TARA Q. THOMAS
Our Cover Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce over Lemony Spinach Rice (page 23). This page: Pommes Anna (page 41). Photographs by Terry Brennan 1 real food winter 2013
Serena Bass is known for being New York City’s caterer to the stars and has thrown parties for Andy Warhol, Giorgio Armani, Kate Spade, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nathan Lane, and countless others. Her cookbook, Serena, Food & Stories, won the James Beard Award for best entertaining book. Currently, Bass is also the executive chef at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York, and holds monthly cooking classes in St. Paul, Minnesota. Photograph by David Loftus.
Terry Brennan is an award-
winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”
Nina Simonds is an award-
winning author, journalist, and one of the country’s leading authorities on Asian food and culture. In 2001, Newsweek named her one of “America’s Top Twenty-Five Asian Hands.” She is the author of 11 books on Chinese cuisine and culture, including the best-selling A Spoonful of Ginger and Spices of Life, both of which won both the IACP and the James Beard Foundation Book Award for Health. Her latest cookbook, Simple Asian Meals was published last January. Her popular food, health, and lifestyle website is at spicesoflife.com.
Tara Q. Thomas gave up Robin Asbell spreads the word
about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher, and private chef. She likes to add special touches to dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains, with an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes No Meat No Dairy All Delicious, which follows The New Whole Grains Cookbook, and the New Vegetarian.
cooking professionally to become a culinary-obsessed writer. She’s been a senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the past decade and writes regularly for the Denver Post, Culture, Gastronomica, and Gourmet.com. The Brooklyn, New York–based mom of two is also author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics.
Jason Ross is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters. 2 real food spring 2014
Lara Miklasevics began her
food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.
Departments 2 Contributors 4 Bites
A gluten-free banana bread shows that it’s possible to enjoy delicious homemade food and adhere to a restrictive diet. BY ELLEN BROWN
6 Kitchen Skills Science meets art in creating a successful soufflé.
BY JASON ROSS
17 Ingredient Nutritious, cost-effective, and versatile, what’s not to love about the simple egg? BY MARY SUBIALKA
56 Pairings EGG PHOTO © PON301229 - FOTOLIA.COM
Prosecco is fast becoming prized for its delicate flavors and aromas of sweet apples, ripe pears, and almonds. BY MARY SUBIALKA
PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR JOEL SCHETTLER ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES JONATHON REYNOLDS SENIOR EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MANDY FINDERS ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES GLORI RANTZ AND KELLY WIEBE
VOLUME 10, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.
spring 2014 real food 3
here’s nothing inherently “bad” about gluten. It’s not an evil chemical produced in a test tube by a mad scientist, nor is it adding plaque to our coronary arteries. It shouldn’t be grouped with trans fats or MSG. Gluten is what’s formed when two of the thirty proteins found in wheat, rye, and barley get wet. That’s all there is to it. But what’s evil is that this natural reaction can be harmful to the health of millions. Understanding the need to live gluten-free starts with understanding how gluten can cause life-threatening problems if not removed from the diet of those who cannot tolerate it. But the good news is that following a gluten-free diet can mitigate debilitating symptoms and pain in as little as a few months, and a change of diet is the only answer. The need is for food rather than a pharmacy. EXCERPT FROM GLUTEN-FREE BREAD: MORE THAN 100 ARTISAN LOAVES FOR A HEALTHIER LIFE BY ELLEN BROWN
Gluten-Free Banana Bread MAKES 1 LOAF
Banana Bread is a classic go-to recipe when there are bananas getting overly ripe, which is when they have the best flavor. In my opinion, you should never eat a banana unless it is covered with dark spots. Bright yellow is not good enough. But it’s a quick trip from “perfection” to “on the way out,” which is where banana bread comes in. Crunchy pecans add some textural interest to this version, which is scented by rum as well as spices. Serve this aromatic bread for breakfast spread with cream cheese mixed with dried fruit, or topped with a hot fruit compote for dessert. ½ ½ ½ ½ ¹⁄3 1½ 1 ¾ ½ ½
cup chopped pecans cup millet flour cup brown rice flour cup tapioca flour cup cornstarch teaspoons gluten-free baking powder teaspoon unflavored gelatin or agar powder teaspoon xanthan gum teaspoon fine salt teaspoon ground cinnamon pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 1 large egg, at room temperature 1 cup very ripe mashed bananas (2 or 3, depending on size) ¼ cup dark rum, or ½ teaspoon rum extract mixed with ¼ cup water ¼ cup buttermilk, shaken 1 ripe banana, thinly sliced (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease an 8½ × 4½-inch loaf pan with vegetable oil spray. Place the pecans on a baking sheet and toast them for 5 to 7 minutes, or until browned. 2. Combine the millet flour, rice flour, tapioca flour, cornstarch, baking powder, gelatin, xanthan gum, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large, deep mixing bowl and whisk well. 3. Combine the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat at low speed to combine, then raise the speed to high and beat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the egg, mashed bananas, rum, and buttermilk. Beat at medium speed until smooth. Add the dry ingredients at low speed and beat for 2 minutes. Stir in the pecans. 4. Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula dipped in water. Place overlapping slices of banana on top of the dough, if using. 5. Bake the bread for 50 to 55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Check the bread after 30 minutes and cover it loosely with aluminum foil if it is getting too brown. Place the pan on a cooling rack and let cool for 30 minutes, then turn the bread out of the pan and serve. Note: The bread can be served hot or at room temperature. Once cool, keep it refrigerated, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days. ■
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PHOTO AND COPY FROM GLUTENFREE BREAD BY ELLEN BROWN. PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE LEGATO; COPYRIGHT © 2013 RUNNING PRESS, A MEMBER OF THE PERSEUS BOOKS GROUP
Easy Gluten-Free Luckily for people who have been diagnosed with celiac disease and others who may find they feel better avoiding gluten, following a gluten-free diet is easier today than ever before. There are more ready-made gluten-free food products on the shelves, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to make delicious homemade foods using gluten-free ingredients, including bread. This recipe by veteran foodie Ellen Brown, founding food editor of USA Today and author of more than 35 cookbooks, including the recently-released Gluten-Free Bread, shows you can even easily make the everpopular banana bread with the right balance of protein-rich flours and starches.
spring 2014 real food 5
Science Meets Art BY JASON ROSS Culinary Instructor Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota
6 real food spring 2014
TRICKS of the TRADE: Whipping egg whites. • Clean the bowl and whisk well before use. • Ensure the egg whites are “clean,” containing no bits of broken yolks. Fat will disrupt the egg whites from whipping and forming a fluffy white mixture. • Do not over-whip the egg whites, as this will cause the “foam” to break and liquid will seep out on the bottom. Once the whites form a soft peak when pulled from the whisk, stop. Folding. Folding combines light mixtures with heavy mixtures without collapsing the lighter mixture. • First, thin out the heavy mixture with about ¹⁄3 of the lighter mixture, mixing freely. • Next, add the rest of the light mixture and begin folding. With a rubber spatula, cut down to the bottom of the bowl. Run the spatula along the bottom of the bowl, scraping the mixture up the side of the bowl (the spatula edge should stay pressed against the bowl as you fold). Turn the bowl a quarter turn and repeat until mixtures are incorporated.
PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS
any cooks play willy-nilly with recipes, creating as they go. Pastries cooks, however, more alchemist than artist, stick to the rules and follow recipes as written. That’s the general belief at least. While rules of weights and measures hold up for the pastry cook 95 percent of the time, there are exceptions. There are desserts where pastry cooks should feel free to change things up, mixing and matching as they please. As scary as they may sound, soufflés actually have wide latitude and can be easily adapted to whatever happens to be in the refrigerator. A successful soufflé, all puffed up, crunchy on the top, and meltingly soft inside, has more to do with an eye for good consistency and touch than accurate weights or adherence to recipes. Soufflés have two basics parts. Something flavorful forms the first part, the base: melted chocolate, fruit sauces or jams, nut butters, or coffee extracts, thickened with a few egg yolks. The second part, whipped egg whites, lightens the base and makes the magic that drives the soufflé up and over the rim of the dish as it cooks, forming the signature brown, crisped crown. The ratios and amounts of the two parts can vary and still hold a reasonably stable soufflé. For every 4 egg whites, use roughly 1 tablespoon sugar. Adjust the amounts to vary the thickness of the soufflé’s rising power or level of eggy-ness. Once you get the hang of folding whipped whites into a base, throwing together a quick soufflé can be as easy as poking your head into the refrigerator for a few eggs and mixing up whatever you happen to have on hand.
Quick Chocolate Soufflé MAKES 6 SERVINGS
2 to 3 tablespoons butter 2 to 3 tablespoons sugar For the base 3 egg yolks, at room temperature 1 teaspoon brandy ¼ cup sugar 6 ounces semisweet or dark chocolate, melted For the whipped egg whites 3 egg whites ¾ tablespoon sugar pinch salt 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Generously butter 6 ramekins and dust with sugar. 2. For the base: In a bowl or mixer, whisk together egg yolks, brandy, and sugar. (If the eggs are too cold when added to the chocolate, it can seize up and cool down.) Sugar should completely dissolve and mixture should thicken and shift from bright orange to pale yellow. This is known as ribbon stage yolks. Stir in chocolate with a spatula. Set aside. 3. For the whipped egg whites: In a bowl or mixer, whisk egg whites until frothy and starting to thicken. Add ¾ tablespoons sugar and pinch salt and continue to whip. Mixture should form a soft peak as it pulls from whisk. 4. Using a rubber spatula, mix roughly ¹⁄3 of egg whites into chocolate mixture until fully incorporated. This lightens the chocolate mixture and helps to protect the air caught in the remaining egg whites and drive up the soufflé as it cooks. Add remaining egg whites and carefully fold until fully mixed with no streaks. 5. Using a spoon, drop soufflé batter into ramekins. Level with top of ramekin using the back of a knife. The batter-filled ramekins can be prepared up to a day in advance and stored in the refrigerator. 6. Place soufflés on a tray and in oven. Bake until they rise and form a browned crown, roughly 10 minutes. Give pan a gentle shake; soufflés should hold their shape and not appear liquidy. 7. When soufflés are done, remove from oven and serve immediately as they will start to deflate as they cool. Slide a metal spatula under hot ramekins to move onto plates and serve with Chocolate Whipped Cream.
Chocolate Whipped Cream MAKES 2 CUPS
½ teaspoon vanilla 2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon cocoa 1 cup heavy cream
1. In a bowl or mixer, combine vanilla, sugar, and cocoa. Pour in ¼ cup cream and mix until combined. Pour in remaining cream and whip until thick. The whipped cream should form a soft peak on an upturned whisk.
Cook’s Note: Fresh whipped cream is best used the same day, but could be stored overnight in the refrigerator. Sometimes after storage the whipped cream will “break,” leaving a telltale sign of liquid at the bottom of the container and slightly deflated and grainy QUICK CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ: textured whipped cream. You might be PER SERVING: CALORIES 399 able to re-whisk the whipped cream for (239 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 16g); CHOL 148mg; SODIUM 105mg; a few seconds to restore the creamy CARB 38g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 5g texture, if it hasn’t gone too far. ■
spring 2014 real food 7
Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.
Lunds and Byerly’s welcome LUNDS Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Edina: 952-926-6833 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka: 952-935-0198 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richﬁeld: 612-861-1881 St. Paul: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222
BYERLY’S Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Edina: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul: 651-735-6340
SHOP ONLINE LundsandByerlys.com
FOOD QUESTIONS? Get answers from our FoodE Experts. 952-548-1400 Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m–6 p.m.
CLASSES & EVENTS Cooking Classes • 952-253-3409 Catering • 952-897-9800
REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663
STAY CONNECTED: Sign up for our e-newsletter at LundsandByerlys.com
n our never-ending quest to push the envelope for food service and product offerings, we will be opening a chefdriven, first-of-its-kind food destination in the Twin Cities in early March called Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen. As the name implies, Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen will focus extensively on freshly prepared foods. It will feature everything from a restaurant with a beer and wine bar to an impressive array of made-to-order sandwiches, sushi, a charcuterie with cut-to-order meats, and more—all available for dinein or take-out. If you just need to visit Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen for a few staple items such as milk, bread, and fresh produce, we’ll have you covered there, too. For a much wider selection of grocery offerings, you’ll be able to place an order using our online grocery shopping service at LundsandByerlys.com, and your order will be available for next-day pickup at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen. Inspiration for our newest concept came, in part, from visits to national and international trendsetters in the food service industry. Much of our inspiration was also driven internally from our amazingly talented team of culinary experts and our successful Creations Café at Byerly’s Golden Val-
ley and Byerly’s Ridgedale. Our chefs have developed many seasonal offerings featuring foods and flavors from around the world Tres along with many Lund comfor t foods we Minnesotans know and love. We’ll be using innovative technology in the restaurant so you can browse the menu, view recommended wine and local beer pairings, and place your order with the tap of a button. I encourage you to turn to the following pages to learn much more about Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen. It truly is a unique hybrid that combines our proven acumen for retail and food service. We hope you’ll find some time to visit our new location when it opens on March 6. If you do, please be sure to let us know what you think. Sincerely,
Tres Lund Chairman and CEO
Download our app by texting LBAPP to 55155. Join our Text Club by texting DEALS to 55155. Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys LundsandByerlys.com real food 9
Lunds and Byerlyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seafood
10 real food spring 2014
Lunds and Byerly’s seafood
Coho salmon caught exclusively for Lunds and Byerly’s BY MARY SMITH, Alaskan fisherman
t’s still dark out when the captain yells, “rise and shine!” You can’t argue with the captain (even if he is your husband). I roll out of the bunk and pull on my wool socks and rubber boots. We have about 15 minutes before we have to set the gear; just enough time to make a pot of strong coffee and eat a granola bar. It’s early September in Alaska and even though the summer has been sunnier than normal, it’s still pretty chilly out at 5 a.m., so I slip on a sweatshirt and warm hat before heading out on deck. We set our gear as the sun climbs up over the mountains. It’s another gorgeous day on the ocean! My husband David and I are trollers and owners of Springline Seafood. We harvest wild coho salmon (also known as silver salmon) exclusively for Lunds and Byerly’s off the shore of Yakobi Island, Alaska. Trolling is one of the most intimate forms of commercial fishing—each salmon is hooked and brought to the boat individually and we land each one by hand.We love having this kind of control over the fish we catch; it allows us to make sure that each salmon we handle meets the very highest quality standards.
Catching salmon is just a part of our day. We’re a freezer boat, so after bringing each batch of fish aboard our boat, The Virga, we carefully process them for the freezing.We clean each fish to ensure it’s perfect, even using a tiny, pressurized hose to finish the process with surgical precision. It’s painstaking, but it means when these salmon head into our deep freeze, they are absolutely pristine. We like to think of ourselves as artisans, and our meticulous process means we can only put up about 100 fish each day. As soon as the first batch of salmon is clean, David crawls down into the freezer. It’s 40 degrees below zero down there, so we work quickly to load the fish onto their racks. Because we run a small operation, we’re able to get our fish landed, processed, and into the freezer in less than an hour. That’s what “frozen at sea” really means. We’re able to use temperature to essentially hold that fish at the freshness it was when it was caught. We call our freezer “The Time Machine” because it really stops time for that fish. When it arrives in the case at
your Lunds or Byerly’s store, you’re seeing it pretty much as we last saw it in Alaska. We love being an exclusive supplier to Lunds and Byerly’s. As a fisherman, it’s a joy knowing each fish that comes aboard our boat is destined for a customer who appreciates quality, value, and sustainability. And let’s not forget the most important reason—flavor! Coho salmon have a clean, fresh flavor that’s tough to beat, and our process locks in that flavor. We hope you’ll make the most of this opportunity to enjoy wild Alaska coho salmon, harvested exclusively for Lunds and Byerly’s. It’s not just a chance to eat well; it’s also a delicious way to support hardworking artisans at sea catching salmon the good old-fashioned way. ■
Lunds and Byerly's is committed to offering you a wide variety of responsibly sourced wild-caught and farm-raised seafood through partnerships with organizations that ensure fisheries are utilizing sustainable practices that preserve and improve our oceans’ ecosystems. Look for our “Responsibly Sourced” icon for your guarantee that our seafood comes from a sustainable fishery. For more information, visit LundsandByerlys.com/SustainableSeafood.
LundsandByerlys.com real food 11
Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store
MCCANN’S OATMEAL Made with rich, chewy Irish oats and flavored with ingredients sourced from around the globe, McCann’s brings the best the world has to offer to your bowl. Ready in an instant, you’ll delight in the wholesome, simple ingredients, heart-healthy whole grains, and four unique flavor combinations.
Did you know? The temperate, humid climate of Ireland promotes the slow ripening of this grain. It enables oats to draw the goodness from the soil and yield up nature’s bounty.
rOBert rOthschiLd FarM preserVes New flavors have arrived in the Robert Rothschild Farm collection. Hatch chile jalapeño jam is a medley of peppers that can be used on panini sandwiches or in sauces. Stone fruit preserves is a delightful blend of tart cherries, sweet peaches, and apricots. Spread it on toast or use as a glaze for meats.
Did you know? These gourmet jams and preserves are all natural, gluten free, and kosher. Visit RobertRothschild.com for recipes and entertaining ideas.
STONEWALL KITCHEN Prepared in the style of traditional English custard, Stonewall Kitchen lemon curd adds a regal touch of sweet and tart to scones, cookies, or your favorite breakfast bread. This lemon curd is gluten free and made using less than 10 simple ingredients.
Tip: Try lemon curd on our Lunds and Byerly’s angel food cake, topped with fresh fruit and a dollop of whipped cream. It’s rich, creamy, and very versatile. You’ll love it!
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Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store
LUNDS AND BYERLY’S BEER CHEESE SOUP
MccLUre’s picKLes and reLishes With great grandma’s pickle recipe at their fingertips, the McClure brothers sure make a mean jar of pickles. Every cucumber is hand sliced and every jar hand packed. Bob and Joe use as much local produce as possible.
Our beer cheese soup you know and love is now even tastier and features more local ingredients! Our executive chefs have packed incredible flavor into this soup with the addition of local Land O'Lakes sharp cheddar cheese and Summit Pilsener, giving it a rich, smooth taste with an added tang. Enjoy this flavorful and hearty soup on our next chilly Minnesota night.
Tip: Visit McCluresPickles.com for tasty recipes, such as pickle pizza, bloody marys, marinades, and bloody mary gumbo.
MERRYVALE VINEYARD’S STARMONT CHARDONNAY Merryvale Vineyard is known for wines that are fruit driven and food friendly. These wines reflect the fruit of their Napa Valley heritage with subtle oak nuances. Starmont Chardonnay is lively with focused aromas and flavors of apple, pear, and vanilla.
Tip: For an extra dash of flavor and crunch, sprinkle popcorn on your beer cheese soup right before serving. Or try it with toasted bruschetta topped with tomato, onion, and prosciutto.
Did you know? Merryvale Vineyard, which is state of the art and solar powered, crafts premium wines from sustainably farmed grapes. LundsandByerlys.com real food 13
Lunds and Byerly’s kitchen
Bringing Our Kitchen to You Shop. Eat. Drink. Explore. BY STEVE CARDA, General Manager, Lunds and Byerly's Kitchen
ozy up to our fireplace with a glass of wine expertly paired with a chefcrafted flight of Alaskan salmon. Stop by to grab soup, salad, or sandwiches for the whole crew before heading out for a day of fun around Lake Minnetonka. Or, simply check milk and bread off the shopping list on your way home. You’ll soon be able to do all of this and more at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen, a firstof-its-kind food destination opening in The Promenade of Wayzata on March 6. This is a place for great food, personable expertise, and shopping convenience.
LET’S TAKE A TOUR OF LUNDS AND BYERLY'S KITCHEN… Stepping through the glass double doors on the corner of Superior Boulevard and Mill Street, you’re welcomed to the restaurant with mouth-watering aromas drifting from
the chef ’s latest creations. Please feel free to take a seat at a booth or table (you’ll have to wait until the snow melts to sit on our patio). Use the iPad at each table to scroll through the menu—enjoy stone oven pizzas, a juicy burger, or seasonal flights of meats and seafood, just to name a few of our offerings. Once your taste buds decide on a meal, place your order and pay from the convenience of the iPad. If you’d prefer, grab some seats at the beer and wine bar in the restaurant. Our experts are happy to suggest a local brew or teach you why a particular wine pairs perfectly with your meal. Just past the restaurant, you’ll find a lot more meal inspiration and solutions for you and your family. This includes everything from made-to-order sandwiches, hand-rolled sushi prepared daily from master chefs, and classic comfort foods such as meatloaf, mac
The 143-seat restaurant and bar will feature chef-crafted seasonal offerings, stone oven pizzas, burgers, and more. We'll also have an impressive selection of wine and local craft beers.
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& cheese, and our Lunds and Byerly’s soups. We also have an amazing salad bar featuring grilled and chilled items such as salmon, prosciutto, and seasonal vegetables. You’ll also find a charcuterie station featuring cut-to-order Italian meats, an impressive cheese counter with wedges from around the globe, and a flavor-packed olive and antipasti bar. As you can see, we’ll have an impressive array of options for every taste preference. In fact, you could visit us every day of the week and pick up something different for every member of your family. And if you need a hot drink before stepping back into that Minnesota chill, Caribou Coffee is in Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen. Caribou is even roasting coffee beans right on site. Just before you hit the parking lot, you can pick up some milk, berries, ground beef, and more as we have a tailored selection of groceries you know and love from our produce, dairy, frozen, bakery, and meat departments. For our full Lunds and Byerly’s product selection, you can place an order through the iPads in our restaurant or online at LundsandByerlys.com/ShopOnline. We’ll have your groceries delivered right to Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen where they will be available for pick up in assigned lockers located in the entryway adjacent to our covered parking lot. Thank you ladies and gentlemen, we hope you enjoyed your visit! While your written tour has come to an end, we hope you join us in person to explore our next evolution of food-service offerings.Your taste buds will thank you! ■
Lunds and Byerlyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen
Lunds and Byerly's Kitchen will focus extensively on freshly prepared foods. We'll have everything from made-to-order sandwiches and sushi to an amazing salad bar and charcuterie featuring cut-to-order Italian meats. All is available for dine-in or take-out.
Additional offerings will include a tailored selection of groceries, specialty products, and a Caribou Coffee. Enjoy your coffee or meal in the cafĂŠ seating area adjacent to Caribou.
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Lunds and Byerly’s kitchen
Q&A with Chef Greg
Opening: March 6, 2014 250 Superior Boulevard Wayzata, MN 55391
Hours: Sunday-Thursday: 6 a.m. – 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday: 6 a.m. – 11 p.m.
Let’s stay connected! We’re excited to welcome the newest member of our executive chef team: Greg Johnson. We sat down with Greg to hear more about his head chef position at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen.
Join us on Facebook at Facebook.com/ LundsandByerlysKitchen or scan the QR code below.
Q: What’s your culinary background? A: Most recently, I was the executive chef at Kincaid's in St. Paul. I’ve also been a sous chef at the Dakota Jazz Club and the Blackbird Café in Minneapolis. I worked in San Francisco for a few years as a sous chef at the Grand Café and the Palomino as well.
Q: What’s your cooking style? A: Fresh, seasonal, and local. The simpler the better in my opinion. I love getting back to our roots and cooking from the land.You don’t need five different sauces or an army of overpowering foods. Simplicity showcases the best flavors each dish has to offer.
Q: Why did you want to become a chef? A: I actually wasn’t sure what I wanted to be. Growing up in a large family meant lots of food all the time, and with my mom constantly cooking for us and for her job, good food was always a part of my life. I looked around and found a culinary program at St. Cloud Tech that stood out to me. Being a chef really clicked for me when I worked in my first kitchen—I have a passion for food and love being part of a team. There’s just an allure to being part of that creativity.
Q: Can you give us a teaser for the new menu? A: It’s a diverse menu that appeals to every appetite. In addition to a lot of classic comfort foods, we’ll also be offering flights.These are small presentations that allow you to explore the versatility of a particular food. One of my favorites we’re thinking about is a smoked seafood flight: smoked trout with horseradish cream and house pickles, smoked mussel chowder with rye bread croutons and chive, and dill-cured salmon with creamy herb spaetzle.We’ll be creating new flights every week using a wide variety of meats and seafood. 16 real food spring 2014
Sign up for email updates on our menu offerings, special offers, and events by visiting LundsandByerlys. com/Kitchen or scan the QR code below.
The Good Egg BY MARY SUBIALKA
here would we be without eggs? If you have them in the fridge, you’ve got endless options for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or dessert. They're packed with nutrition, cost-effective, and keep much longer than you may have thought. Here are highlights of this much-loved staple plus a quick and easy recipe for home or on the go. Nutrition: Eggs are a very good source of protein and a good source of riboflavin, vitamin B12 and phosphorus, and selenium—all at only about 72 calories for one large egg. Many people may have shied away from eggs for fear of dietary cholesterol. However, more than 40 years of research have shown that healthy adults can enjoy eggs without significantly impacting their risk of heart disease, according to the American Egg Board based on information from the United States Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Research Service. There are more options when you’re reaching for a carton of eggs these days. You'll find eggs with increased omega-3 content, or added vitamins, minerals, or carotenoids, and some have altered fat content. Nutrient-enhanced eggs are created by varying the hens’ diet. Check labels for nutrient facts. Color: Egg shell and yolk color may vary, but the color has no relationship to egg quality, flavor, nutritive value, or cooking characteristics. The breed of hen determines the color of the shell. Since brown-egg layers are slightly larger birds and require more food, that’s the reason brown eggs are usually more expensive than white. Storing: It’s best to store eggs on an inside shelf in your fridge. You can keep fresh, uncooked eggs in the shell refrigerated (at 35 to 45°F ) in their cartons for about three weeks after you bring them home, according to the American Egg Board. Refrigerate hard-boiled eggs in their shells and use within one week.
Go for Yolk With the exception of niacin and riboflavin, the yolk contains a higher proportion of the egg’s vitamins than the white, including B6 and B12, folic acid, pantothenic acid, thiamin, calcium, copper, iron, manganese, phosphorus, selenium, and zinc. All of the egg’s vitamins A, D, E and K are in the yolk. (The yolk of one large egg contains about 55 calories.) Source: American Egg Board
RECIPE AND TOP PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN EGG BOARD. VISIT INCREDIBLEEGG.ORG FOR NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION AND MORE RECIPES. BOTTOM PHOTO: © MSK.NINA - FOTOLIA.COM
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Microwave Coffee Cup Scramble MAKES 1 SERVING
For a quick and easy breakfast in less than 3 minutes, try this microwave egg scramble. Just add your favorite toppings and take it to go! 2 eggs 2 tablespoons milk 2 tablespoons shredded Cheddar cheese salt and pepper to taste 1. Coat a 12-ounce microwave-safe coffee mug with cooking spray. Add eggs and milk; beat until blended. 2. Microwave on high 45 seconds; stir. Microwave until eggs are almost set, 30 to 45 seconds longer. (Microwave ovens vary. Cooking times may need to be adjusted.) 3. Top with cheese; season with salt and pepper. Note: Never microwave eggs in shells. Steam builds up too quickly inside and eggs are likely to explode.
Infuse your meals with the sunny sweet tang of citrus fruit. BY ROBIN ASBELL
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PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS spring 2014 real food 19
As winter fades to spring, we can’t help but crave sunshine. And while you can’t buy a basket of sunshine, you can fill your cart with the next best thing—tart and sweet citrus fruits to brighten your favorite foods. It’s the perfect time to celebrate citrus in all its tangy glory. Lemons, limes, and oranges are so integral to our kitchens that produce managers make sure they’re available year-round. More exotic citrus fruits, such as blood oranges and kumquats, are only available in the cold months, so now is the time to enjoy it. The supply will be winding down as we approach summer and the bounty of warm-weather fruit takes its place. Welcome spring with these sunny citrus recipes.
Red Grapefruit, Cara Cara Orange, and Avocado Salad with Kumquat Dressing Makes 4 to 6 servings
Dressing 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons water 2 medium kumquats or ½ key lime, thinly sliced ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper 1 tablespoon lemon juice ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil Salad 1 head butter lettuce, washed, dried, and torn 2 medium red grapefruit 2 medium Cara Cara oranges 2 large avocados 2 medium scallions, slivered
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1. For the dressing: In a 1-quart pot, stir together sugar and water, and place over high heat. Stir to dissolve sugar as it comes to a boil and add kumquat. Reduce heat to just barely bubble and cook 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Stir in salt and pepper. 2. Using a sharp chef's knife, cut peel and pith from grapefruits and cut along membranes to remove sections, holding fruit over a bowl to catch juice. When all sections have been removed, hold remaining membrane over a cup and squeeze to get all juice. Whisk 3 tablespoons grapefruit juice into dressing. Whisk in lemon juice and oil. Reserve. 3. For the salad: On 4 large salad plates or a platter, spread lettuce. Cover with grapefruit. Section oranges in same manner as grapefruit and distribute over grapefruit. Cut each avocado in half and twist out pit. Using a sharp paring knife, slice avocado flesh in shell then use a soupspoon to scoop out. Fan half an avocado over each salad or all of it over platter. Sprinkle with scallions, drizzle with dressing, and serve.
orange photo © seralex - Fotolia.com
Everybody wants their salads to have some “zazz,” and this one delivers, with its colorful, juicy citrus and meltingly soft avocados. The dressing makes good use of kumquats, the tiny fruits that are mostly peel, by cooking thin slices in a syrup and dressing the salad with them. If kumquats aren’t available, key limes or other small limes can be substituted.
Red Grapefruit, Cara Cara Orange, and Avocado Salad with Kumquat Dressing
Âť Citrus Appeal Freshly squeezed orange, grapefruit, or blood-orange juice is great on its own or blended into dressings and sauces. And limes are essential to Mexican cuisine, adding that hint of tartness to guacamole, salsa, or meat dishes. spring 2014 real food 21
Âť Add Some Zest! The bright outer layer of the peel is a potent source of flavor, and many dishes benefit from a grating of it.
Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce over Lemony Spinach Rice
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Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce over Lemony Spinach Rice Makes 4 servings
We eat with our eyes first, and when you serve this brilliantly colored plate, all eyes will be upon the gorgeous red sauce. Blood oranges, sometimes called Moro oranges, have deep red juice that is usually tarter than a typical orange. This simple sauce puts the unique blood-red juice front and center drizzled over the pink salmon atop a green-flecked bed of rice. Rice 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 2-inch strips lemon zest 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup brown basmati rice or other long-grain brown rice 2 cups (2½ ounces) salad spinach, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Salmon in Sauce 6 large blood oranges 2 tablespoons unbleached flour ½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper 1 teaspoon salt, divided 2 tablespoons canola oil 4 4-ounce salmon fillets 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons capers, rinsed 1. F or the rice: Heat oil in a 2-quart saucepan. Add onion. Bring to a sizzle, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until soft, up to 15 minutes. Add zest, stock, and salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add rice, return to a boil, and cover tightly before reducing heat to low. Cook 40 to 50 minutes, until all liquids are absorbed. Remove from heat and fold in spinach and lemon juice. Cover 3 to 5 minutes to wilt spinach. Serve hot. 2. F or the salmon with sauce: While rice is cooking, use a chef’s knife to remove peel and pith from 2 blood oranges. Cut into round slices. Using the tip of a paring knife, pick out any seeds. Zest and juice remaining oranges and reserve. 3. I n a pie pan or on a plate, mix flour, pepper, and half of salt. Coat salmon with mixture. 4. I n a large sauté pan, heat oil until shimmering. Place salmon skin side up in hot oil. Cook 1 minute, carefully flip, and cook 2 to 3 minutes for thin fillets, 3 to 4 minutes longer for thicker ones. When cooked through, remove to a plate and cover loosely to keep warm. 5. W ipe out pan and return to heat. Add blood-orange juice, zest, honey, and remaining salt. Swirl and stir until juice cooks down to a syrupy consistency. Swirl in butter. Add orange slices and capers, and warm gently. Serve each salmon filet on ¾ cup rice, topped with orange slices and blood-orange sauce.
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Lemon-Raspberry Coffeecake with Mandarin-Orange Sauce
Lemon Pudding and Lime Curd Parfaits
Makes 9 servings
Makes 5 servings
Brighten your day with this tender, tangy cake studded with red raspberries and drizzled with orange sauce. Serve it for breakfast or a snack with coffee, tea, or a glass of cold milk.
A parfait is best when built with complementary textures and flavors, layered to provide maximum excitement.These deliver, with creamy, mildly lemony pudding; tangy lime curd; and soft, sweet whipped cream. To save time, make the pudding and curd up to three days ahead and assemble up to two days before serving, topping with whipped cream just before serving.
Coffeecake 1½ cups unbleached flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup butter, chilled and divided ½ cup sugar 1 large egg 1¼ cups plain yogurt 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 tablespoon lemon zest 2 cups raspberries ¼ cup turbinado sugar Sauce 1 cup tangerine juice 1 teaspoon tangerine zest ½ cup sugar ¹⁄8 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons orange liqueur (optional) ¼ cup water 2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1. For the cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-inch square baking pan. 2. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. 3. In a stand mixer or large bowl using an electric mixer, beat butter and sugar until light, scraping down 2 or 3 times. Beat in egg. In a glass measuring cup, combine yogurt, lemon juice, and vanilla, add half of yogurt mixture, and beat in. Add a third of flour mixture, beat in, beat in remaining yogurt mixture, and then beat in remaining flour mixture. Scrape down and stir until smooth but don't over-beat. Fold in the lemon zest. 4. Scrape mixture into pan and top with berries, lightly patting into batter. Sprinkle turbinado sugar over cake. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 minutes before slicing. 5. For the sauce: In a 1-quart pan, combine juice, zest, sugar, and salt. Over medium-high heat, bring to a boil and cook just until sugar dissolves. Add orange liqueur and stir. In a cup, whisk together water and cornstarch, and whisk into bubbling juices. Whisk until sauce is thickened and shiny. Remove from heat and whisk in butter. 6. Serve slices of cake drizzled with sauce.
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Pudding ½ cup sugar ¼ cup cornstarch 2 cups whole milk or half-and-half 1 pinch salt ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest, finely grated Curd ½ cup fresh lime juice ½ cup sugar 3 large eggs 4 tablespoons butter, diced 2 teaspoons fresh lime zest Whipped Cream ½ cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons powdered sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla 1. For the pudding: In a 2-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together sugar, cornstarch, milk, and salt until cornstarch is dissolved. Place over medium heat. Whisk constantly until pudding thickens. Let mixture start to bubble then remove from heat. Whisk in lemon juice, butter, and zest, and transfer to a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing wrap onto surface of pudding, and chill. 2. For the curd: Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl. In a 1- or 2-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together lime juice, sugar, and egg. Stir in butter. Place over medium-low heat, and whisk constantly until mixture becomes thick enough to coat back of a spoon, taking care not to let it boil. Remove from heat and pour through sieve, using a rubber spatula to force it through. Use spatula to scrape curd from bottom of sieve into bowl. Stir in lime zest and cover with plastic wrap, pressing wrap onto surface of curd. Chill. 3. In 5 wine glasses or dessert bowls that will hold 1 cup, scoop ¼ cup pudding and top with 2 tablespoons curd, dropping along edge of glass so it will show from side. Top with another ¼ cup pudding then 2 more tablespoons curd. Parfaits can be chilled, covered with plastic wrap, up to 2 days. Serve cold. 4. For the whipped cream: In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment or large bowl with an electric mixer, combine cream, powdered sugar, and vanilla. Turn mixer to high and beat until cream is fluffy and holds soft peaks. Top each parfait with 3 tablespoons whipped cream just before serving.
leMon-raspBerry CoffeeCake with ManDarin-orange sauCe anD leMon puDDing anD liMe CurD parfaits
RED GRAPEFRUIT, CARA CARA ORANGE, & AVOCADO SALAD W. KUMQUAT DRESSING: per serving: Calories 286 (169 from fat); fat 20g (sat. 3g); Chol 0mg; soDiuM 244mg; CarB 29g; fiBer 8g; protein 3g
SALMON IN BLOOD-ORANGE SAUCE OVER LEMONY SPINACH RICE: per serving: Calories 701 (238 from fat); fat 27g (sat. 7g); Chol 80mg; soDiuM 1331mg; CarB 84g; fiBer 12g; protein 35g
LEMON-RASPBERRY COFFEECAKE W. MANDARIN-ORANGE SAUCE: per serving: Calories 369 (127 from fat); fat 14g (sat. 9g); Chol 57mg; soDiuM 410mg; CarB 57g; fiBer 3g; protein 5g
LEMON PUDDING & LIME CURD PARFAITS: per serving: Calories 498 (244 from fat); fat 28g (sat. 16g); Chol 185mg; soDiuM 199mg; CarB 57g; fiBer 0g; protein 8g
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Spirited Dishes Cooking grows up with the addition of a little alcohol.
by Serena Bass
Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics 26 real food spring 2014
hicken fingers and PBJs can hit the spot, but every now and
then, it is exhilarating to act like a grownup and start splashing some alcohol around in the kitchen. Whether you turn to wine, beer, or spirits, any form of alcohol can improve a dish’s depth of flavor and lend a shot of sophistication. These recipes include a variety of alcohol, from Belgian white beer used straight in a vinaigrette to powerful French Armagnac flambéed then soothed with cream and apple cider. When you’re sautéing with rich fats like duck fat, goose fat, or butter, wine or spirits lend some acidic balance. Hard liquor, like bourbon and rum, have a wonderful lingering perfume even when the alcohol content is mostly cooked away. When cooking with a red wine, use something full-bodied, like a Shiraz or Zinfandel; dry red wine can often be too harsh. For a white wine, choose something fragrant, like a Sauvignon Blanc. If you’ve never used alcohol in your cooking, now is the time to start.
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Pasta with Spicy Sausage, Vodka, and Baby Peas
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Pasta with Spicy Sausage, Vodka, and Baby Peas Makes 8 to 10 servings
This is a wonderfully adaptable recipe. I occasionally up the pepper flakes and add a couple cups of chopped sweet red peppers with the onions. I’ve used all marinara sauce and no cream, or subbed in oregano and thyme for the rosemary. You can make it your own. Invest in high-quality vodka, as cheaper stuff can taste harsh. Use a stainless-steel saucepan with high sides; the sausage won’t break up well in a nonstick pan and will just keep sliding around. This sauce freezes particularly well, so I always make more than needed and then have a great treat for a midweek dinner, ready in minutes. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup yellow onion, cut in ½-inch dice 3 tablespoons chopped garlic ½ teaspoon hot pepper flakes, or more to taste 2 tablespoons minced lemon zest, removed with a peeler 3 pounds spicy Italian sausage, casing removed 1 cup Absolut Peppar vodka 2 tablespoons minced rosemary 2 cups heavy cream 2 cups marinara sauce ¼ cup per person frozen baby green peas (see note for freezing) orecchiette or medium shell pasta 1. Melt butter, add onion, and cook over medium heat 8 minutes, until translucent. Add garlic, pepper flakes, and lemon zest, and gently sauté 1 minute. Crumble in sausage, breaking up against side of pan and chopping with a heavy wooden spoon until the sausage is broken up and there's hardly any pink left. This can take 10 minutes. 2. Add vodka and cook 3 minutes. Add rosemary, cream, and marinara. Stir to mix and bring to a simmer. Cover, adjust heat so sauce just simmers, and cook 45 minutes. 3. If not serving entire recipe immediately, remove excess to a sealed container and freeze. 4. Just before serving, add the uncooked, defrosted peas, and stir; they will cook quickly in the heat of the sauce and give a wonderful pop of sweetness. Ideally, serve with orecchiette or medium shells to capture the creamy sauce.
» For freezing: Peas are added just before serving so if you plan to freeze some of this dish, do not add peas and wait until serving. Calculate only the ¼ cup peas per person for what you plan to use right away.
Is There Still Alcohol in that Dish? The addition of alcohol gives many dishes a wonderful, aromatic punch, but it may not be for everyone. I long assumed that virtually all the alcohol would cook out of a dish once it has been variously simmered, boiled, or flambéed. In fact this is far from true; different modes and lengths of cooking present different results. In reality, the amount of alcohol remaining after cooking ranges from 5 to 85 percent, according to a study from the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Nutrient Data Laboratory. And the variations aren’t just dependent on how long you keep the temperature above 173°F, alcohol’s boiling point. The size of the cooking vessel greatly affects the alcohol-retention rate; the smaller the vessel, the more alcohol is retained due to the reduced surface area for evaporation. This study revealed that alcohol content diminishes with cooking time. After liquor has been poured on foods and then set alight—flambéed—approximately 75 percent of the alcohol remains after the flames have died down. After being added to food that is then baked or simmered for 15 minutes, 40 percent of the alcohol will be retained. After cooking for an hour, about 25 percent will remain. The lowest percentage of alcohol left after cooking—around 5 percent—is in stews that are cooked at least 2½ hours. The amount of alcohol in an individual serving will be quite low, but keep these highlights in mind if alcohol is a concern to you or your dinner guests. For more information, visit nutrition-profiles.com and click on “Cooking with Alcohol.”
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Chicken Breast with Calvados and Apples
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Chicken Breast with Calvados and Apples Makes 4 servings
This looks like a long recipe, but it just has a few specific parts. It is hardly a slimming dish, mainly because it is derived from an ancient French recipe from Normandy. That particular area of France is the epicenter of exquisite butter and cream, delicious tart yet sweet apples, and Calvados, a fortified apple brandy. The original recipe uses pheasant, and everything is braised for hours. I have modernized the method with no reduction in flavor using easily found ingredients. Use organic chicken and cream, and high-quality butter.
4 skinless boneless organic chicken breasts 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice ¼ cup Calvados or cognac 4 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, quartered, and cut into 12 wedges 2 cups cloudy apple cider 2 cups organic heavy cream 2 cups homemade chicken stock (not reduced-sodium) 1. Fold each chicken breast in a paper towel and, using a heavy pan, smash thick end a few times to equalize thickness. Dust both sides well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. 2. Melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat in a heavy sauté pan that will hold chicken in an even layer. When butter stops sizzling, increase heat to medium-high and add chicken. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, turning every 2 minutes. 3. Halfway through, add lemon juice, which will sizzle and evaporate. The steam will help cook the chicken, and the flavor will balance the richness. When chicken is nearly done (cut the breast to check for a little bit of uncooked chicken), turn off heat. 4. In a small pan, warm Calvados over medium-low heat 1 minute to cook off some of the alcohol. Using a long taper or lighter, light Calvados in pan and pour over chicken with 1 circular movement. Shake pan and be brave; the flames will dissipate after several seconds. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, remove chicken and juices to a rimmed plate. 5. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in sauté pan. Add apples, dust with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and sauté over medium-high heat 8 minutes, flipping occasionally, until they just start to caramelize. Reduce heat if they start to burn. Scrape apples onto plate with chicken. 6. Pour cider, cream, and stock into pan. Bring to a boil and cook 15 minutes, scraping edges occasionally, until sauce is slightly thickened. Turn off heat. 7. Add chicken, apples, and juices, and warm over low heat. If not serving immediately, transfer to an ovenproof serving dish and set aside unrefrigerated up to 4 hours. Reheat in a 300°F oven 20 to 25 minutes; sauce shouldn’t come anywhere near boiling. Serve with celery-root mash and steamed haricots verts.
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Marinade with Dark Sherry, Orange, and Chilies Makes 2 cups
This marinade is wonderful with steak, chicken breasts or thighs, or pork chops on the bone. Just marinate for 2 hours and grill or pan sear to your liking. It has an Asian influence and pairs well with a quick vegetable stir-fry and some chewy short-grain brown rice with a handful of chopped cilantro and mint. Be sure to use dark sweet sherry (Harveys Bristol Cream is my favorite). 3 tablespoons dark sherry 3 packed tablespoons dark brown sugar ½ cup vegetable oil ²⁄3 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and grated 2 teaspoons crushed garlic 1 tablespoon grated orange zest 1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes, or more to taste ¼ cup scallions, green and white parts finely minced 1. Whisk together all ingredients in a bowl. This will keep for 2 days, refrigerated.
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» Pepper Tip I have a grinding trick! Try grinding 10 times on your mill and see how much of a teaspoon you have. Mine grinds ½ teaspoon; yours might deliver more or less. Then you’ll never have to grind and measure again, you’ll just do 10 grinds and know you have the ½, or ¼-teaspoon you need.
White Beer Dressing Makes 1¹⁄8 cups
You can use any pale beer here, such as Stella Artois, Amstel, or Heineken Light but the Hoegaarden has a little sweetness that I like. The amount of pepper might seem scary but as long as you use freshly ground pepper on a coarse grind, the balance is perfect. Do not use pre-ground or it will be much too strong and lack the instant flavor that only comes from your peppermill.
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon minced garlic ¼ cup white beer, such as Hoegaarden 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ½ cup heavy cream ¼ cup homemade mayonnaise (recipe right)
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together vinegar, garlic, beer, salt, and pepper. Whisk in cream and mayonnaise. This will keep for 2 days, refrigerated.
Homemade Mayonnaise Makes 1¾ cups
This is the best mayonnaise—and great to have on hand for sandwiches or dips. 1 extra large egg 1 tablespoon aged sherry vinegar 1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 large clove garlic, peeled 1½ cups vegetable oil 1. Combine all ingredients except oil in bowl of a food processor and blend 30 seconds. 2. Slowly add oil through feed tube while processing. Mayonnaise should be very thick. 3. Transfer to a small sealed container and refrigerate up to 1 week.
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chocolate filling and Chocolate Tart
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Chocolate Tart Filling
Makes 8 serVings
Makes 6 serVings in cocotte dishes Makes enough filling for 2 tarts for tart: Just use half and freeZe the Balance; it freeZes Perfectly for at least 2 Months.
This is a great recipe for those among us who have pastry phobia or pastry impatience (I have yeast phobia, so I understand).The end result is so ridiculously delicious that you will feel vindicated in the effort you have made. If all the steps are making your eyes roll, skip the pastry and just make the filling (see recipe right). tart shell 1¼ cups heckers or king arthur all-purpose flour 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into ½-inch pieces ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup iced water
1. Place flour, butter, and salt in bowl of a food processor and pulse 10 times. Pour in water and pulse 8 times. 2. Let damp crumbs sit 5 minutes, tip into a sealable plastic bag, and gently but firmly form a ¾-inch-thick disk. Refrigerate dough at least 2 hours or overnight. 3. Remove dough from refrigerator and leave at room temperature 15 minutes, until just pliable but still cool. Roll out to a 12-inch circle and, making sure it’s centered, drape over a 9½-inch tart pan with removable base. 4. Lift up pastry and ease it down into corner of pan, pushing it in with a knuckle then pressing in gently but firmly with your thumb against the vertical side. This will give you a strong pastry wall to hold the filling. 5. Run a rolling pin over top of pan to cut off excess pastry. Dock the base several times with a fork. Place shell, uncovered, in freezer 30 minutes. 6. Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 425°F. Remove shell from freezer and line with aluminum foil, allowing 3 extra inches on each side. Tuck foil into corners well and fill ½ inch deep with pie weights or dried beans. 7. Bake 20 minutes, remove foil, and bake 10 minutes uncovered, until there are no uncooked patches and pastry is golden brown. When removing from oven, wait 10 seconds to let foil cool. You can then pick it up by the four corners with your bare hands; just avoid the beans as they will be hot. 8. Shell can be baked a day ahead, left in pan to cool, and filled and baked the next day. Just wrap with plastic wrap when shell is totally cold and store unrefrigerated. 9. For the tart filling: Reduce the oven heat to 350°F. Pour the filling into the shell and bake for 10 minutes if the shell is warm and 12 minutes if the shell is cool. Remove the tart from the oven (the center will still be jiggly), and allow to cool without refrigerating. Serve warm or at room temperature.
PASTA W. SPICY SAUSAGE & VODKA : Per serVing: calories 650 (450 from fat); fat 50g (sat. 23g); chol 129mg; sodiuM 1575mg; carB 20g; fiBer 3g; Protein 25g
CHICKEN BREAST W. CALVADOS & APPLES: Per serVing: calories 861 (531 from fat); fat 60g (sat. 36g); chol 280mg; sodiuM 571mg; carB 39g; fiBer 2g; Protein 41g
This is simplicity at its finest and creates a sensation! I used to make pastry, let it rest, roll it out, freeze it, fill it with beans, bake blind, and eventually pour in this fantastic, rich, chocolaty filling before bake the whole thing. Sometimes faux dieters would scrape the filling off, eat the chocolate part, and leave the hours-of-effort shell. Eventually I decided to make double the filling and just bake it in cocotte dishes like a chocolate pudding. 16 tablespoons (2 sticks), unsalted butter cut into tablespoon slices 1 cup semisweet chocolate morsels 1 cup bittersweet chocolate morsels 2 tablespoons Medaglia d’oro espresso powder 4 extra large eggs 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar ¼ cup whiskey, bourbon, or Myers’s dark rum 2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons droste dutch process or ghirardelli cocoa 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1. Butter 6, ½-cup, ovenproof cocotte dishes. Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. 2. Put butter, chocolate, and espresso powder in a medium saucepan over low heat and stir until just melted. 3. In a deep, medium bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, and alcohol very well. Sift in flour, cocoa, and salt, and gently whisk together. Add chocolate mixture and stir to incorporate. 4. Using a ¹⁄2 cup measuring cup, carefully fill each cocotte dish. Bake 15 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving warm with whipped heavy cream or ice cream. ■
WHITE BEER DRESSING: Per serVing: calories 88 (79 from fat); fat 9g (sat. 3g); chol 17mg; sodiuM 564mg;carB 1g; fiBer 0g; Protein 0g
CHOCOLATE TART: Per serVing: calories 473 (285 from fat); fat 32g (sat. 20g); chol 114mg; sodiuM 356mg; carB 42g; fiBer 3g; Protein 6g
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bistro brunch Add a French accent to your leisurely and satisfying midday mealâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;est magnifique! by jason ross
Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics 36 real food spring 2014
Clafouti with Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream (recipe page 43) and Café Da (recipe page 38)
Brunch is a conscious decision to dine during what would otherwise be the most productive parts of the day. It is leisurely, slow, and decadent. If there’s a meal when diners ignore their diets and eat to their hearts’ desire, it’s brunch. Maybe that’s why we love it so much and why restaurants offering a good brunch have lines out the door. French bistro dishes fit the image of a leisurely, satisfying brunch: a change from hash browns to Pommes Anna, from pancakes to Berry Clafouti, from eggs and toast to Croque Madame, from vegetables sides to Poached Leeks, and from coffee and cream to icy Café Da. Isn’t that a little indulgent, you might ask? Yes. Yes it is.
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Poached Leeks with Mustard Vinaigrette Makes 6 servings
Café Da Makes 1 serving
On the streets of Saigon, men hide from the heat of the day in hammocks and sip iced milk coffee, an enduring legacy of the coffee-drinking French colonizers. To make a true Vietnamese ca phe sua da, you need a special steel filter that slowly drips thick coffee through a compressed space. This version uses espresso sweetened with condensed milk and a full glass of ice to reproduce the feeling of luxuriously sipping coffee, hiding from the world if for only a few minutes. nearly 2 cups ice ¼ cup sweetened condensed milk, or to taste 1 shot hot espresso 1. Fill 1 tall glass with ice. Pour milk into a cup or glass large enough to hold milk and espresso. Add more milk for a lighter, sweeter drink and less for darker with bitter hints. 2. Add enough hot water to espresso to total just more than ½ cup. Pour over milk and stir until fully incorporated. Pour over ice and stir to chill before serving.
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This salad could work as a satisfying light meal with a bit of crusty baguette. As part of the brunch, the cutting acidity of the vinaigrette helps even out an otherwise rich midday meal. Cook the leeks well, until they are fully tender and offer no resistance to the tip of a knife. Leeks can feel soft when warm, only to firm up and feel crunchy and raw as they cool and the starches solidify. While the leeks will keep up to a week refrigerated with some of the poaching liquid, they are best served within a day. After that, some of the flavor and color diminish over time. You may find you have to remove the outermost layer if it becomes tough and dry. Before serving, allow the leeks to come to room temperature.
3 medium leeks 2 tablespoons salt 1 tablespoon wine vinegar ½ teaspoon black peppercorns 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 cups mache or other young salad greens 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and roughly chopped ¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano
Vinaigrette ½ clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons minced shallots 2 tablespoons champagne vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ cup vegetable oil ¼ cup finely minced parsley freshly ground pepper to taste 1. To prepare leeks, cut off dark green leaves. Make an incision at cut end and split down about 2 inches from top but not all the way to root. Rinse well to remove any dirt embedded in the layers. Trim root end of any dirt or dangling strands, but leave enough root intact to hold together leek as it cooks. 2. In a pot large enough to hold leeks, combine salt, vinegar, peppercorns, bay leaves, and lemon juice with 6 cups water and bring to a boil. Add leeks, and reduce heat to a simmer. Add extra water if needed to cover the leeks, along with an extra pinch of salt and dash of vinegar. The poaching liquid should taste piquant, salty, and acidic. Cook for roughly 30 minutes, until leeks are tender. Check for doneness by piercing thickest part of leek with a paring knife; it should offer no resistance and no longer feel fibrous. Remove leeks to a bowl to cool to room temperature. 3. For the vinaigrette: In a deep bowl, whisk together garlic, salt, shallots, vinegar, and mustard. Drizzle oil in slowly while whisking to create a smooth, thickened sauce. If vinaigrette is still acidic, add a few drops water and whisk in more oil until it tastes balanced. Add parsley as well as black pepper and salt to taste. Vinaigrette will keep, refrigerated, up to 1 week but may take on strong flavors from garlic. 4. To serve, toss greens with vinaigrette and place in a neat mound in center of six plates. Slice leeks lengthwise and coat with some vinaigrette. Serve ½ leek per plate. Finish salads with egg, Pecorino Romano, and some fresh cracked black pepper, drizzling on more vinaigrette if desired.
Poached Leeks with Mustard Vinaigrette
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40 real food spring 2014
Makes 6 servings
Makes 6 servings
Imagine the perfect, over-the-top grilled cheese sandwich and you have the Croque Madame. Use béchamel to hold the sandwich together along with the best alpine-style cheese you can find. Add a few slices of ham. And top it all off with a golden fried egg for the ultimate brunch indulgence.
Think of these as French hash browns. In typical French fashion, Pommes Anna carry a heavy dose of butter. To lighten the flavor and reduce the need for an after-brunch nap, this recipe employs olive oil.
Béchamel 4 tablespoons butter ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 4 cups whole milk small pinch nutmeg salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste 12 slices white bread 1¼ to 1½ pounds grated Gruyère or other melting cheese 6 slices ham large enough to cover bread butter 6 eggs 1. For the béchamel: Melt butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add flour and whisk 1 to 2 minutes, until smooth but not browned. Slowly whisk in milk. 2. Cook 15 to 30 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, until sauce is thickened and coats a spoon well, taking care not to let it scorch. 3. Add nutmeg as well as salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste. Cool and refrigerate up to 1 week. 4. Preheat oven to 425°F. In warming oven, lightly toast bread to dry out without browning, flipping to dry both sides. Let cool to room temperature. 5. Spread béchamel onto both sides of bread. Sprinkle roughly ¹⁄3 of cheese on top. Place ham on top and sprinkle on another ¹⁄3 of cheese. Top with remaining bread. Coat top of sandwich with béchamel again. Sprinkle on last of cheese. Sandwiches can be prepared a day in advance and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before cooking. 6. Transfer to a tray lined with parchment or wax paper and bake 20 to 30 minutes, until cheese and béchamel are fully melted, hot, and dark golden brown. 7. When nearly done, heat a sauté pan with butter and cook 6 sunny-side-up eggs seasoned with salt and black pepper. Top finished sandwiches with eggs. Serve with a fork and steak knife as this hot sandwich is not easy to handle.
¹⁄3 cup olive oil 3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes salt and pepper to taste 1 tablespoon minced parsley 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut a piece of parchment or wax paper to line bottom of a medium, ovenproof sauté pan. Brush both sides of paper with oil and press into pan. 2. Using a mandolin, food processor with slicer attachment, or knife, cut potatoes into ¹⁄8-inch slices. It is important to assemble the Pommes Anna quickly after the potatoes are cut or they will turn brown. Don’t soak them as the potato starch will rinse off and the slices won’t stick together to form a cake. 3. Starting in center of pan, arrange potatoes in an overlapping circle. Season with salt and pepper, and brush with oil. Repeat to create 5 to 6 layers, seasoning and oiling each layer, for a nearly full pan. Using the heel of your hand, push potatoes firmly into pan to help them stick together. 4. Cook over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until oil starts to sizzle and potatoes begin to brown. Transfer to oven and bake 40 minutes. Potatoes should be tender and browned, and should yield easily to a toothpick or thin knife. 5. Using a spatula to hold potatoes in place, tip pan to carefully drain any excess fat into a bowl. Cover pan with a plate. Hold pan with a heatproof glove or folded towel in one hand and plate in the other. Invert potatoes onto plate. Serve cut into wedges with cracked pepper and minced parsley.
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Clafouti with Crème fraîChe whipped Cream
CAFÉ DA: per serving: Calories 246 (59 from fat); fat 7g (sat. 4g); Chol 26mg; sodium 118mg; CarB 42g; fiBer 0g; protein 6g
42 real food spring 2014
POACHED LEEKS W. MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE: per serving: Calories 236 (191 from fat); fat 22g (sat. 4g); Chol 67mg; sodium 771mg; CarB 7g; fiBer 1g; protein 5g
CROQUE MADAME: per serving: Calories 863 (490 from fat); fat 55g (sat. 30g); Chol 350mg; sodium 1303mg; CarB 38g; fiBer 2g; protein 51g
POMMES ANNA: per serving: Calories 276 (107 from fat); fat 12g (sat. 2g); Chol 0mg; sodium 19mg; CarB 39g; fiBer 4g; protein 5g
CLAFOUTI WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE WHIPPED CREAM: per serving: Calories 372 (246 from fat); fat 28g (sat. 15g); Chol 129mg; sodium 75mg; CarB 26g; fiBer 3g; protein 6g
Clafouti with Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream Makes 8 servings
Clafouti straddles the line between thick pancake and sweet omelet. It can be dressed up or down depending on presentation. Clafouti is cooked and served in the same vessel. If you have a casserole pan you love or a great cast-iron pan, this is the time to use it. In this recipe, blackberries replace the more traditional cherries. 10 ounces blackberries 2 tablespoons sugar, divided 1 to 2 tablespoons butter powdered sugar Custard 1½ cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon brandy or Grand Marnier ½ teaspoon almond extract ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup almond flour ¼ cup sugar pinch salt 2 eggs powdered sugar, for serving 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter an attractive, medium, oven-safe pan and sprinkle in 1 tablespoon sugar to coat. This will help the clafouti rise, like a soufflé, and give its edges nice caramel flavor. 2. Toss blackberries with 1 tablespoon sugar to coat and set aside. Blackberries should soften and release some liquid. 3. For the custard: In a bowl or liquid measuring cup, combine cream, brandy, and almond extract. In a separate bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, almond flour, sugar, and salt. 4. In a blender, processor, or bowl, whisk together eggs, wet ingredients, and dry ingredients until smooth. 5. Place blackberries in pan, filling evenly. Pour over batter. Bake 45 minutes, rotating pan halfway through cooking time. Cook until a toothpick inserted into thickest section comes out clean and batter seems solid. The clafouti will puff up as it cooks, like a soufflé, then settle into a thick pancake when it cools. 6. Serve the same day warm or at room temperature, but not hot out of the oven, with a dusting of powdered sugar and spoonful of Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream.
Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream Makes 1½ to 2 cups
¾ cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla ¼ cup crème fraîche
1. In a bowl or mixer, whip cream with sugar and vanilla until thick and soft peaks form when pulled from whisk. Spoon in crème fraîche and mix together. The extra fat from the crème fraîche helps stabilize the whipped cream and it will keep, refrigerated, up to 3 days.
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Fragrant Chicken Coconut Curry with Green Beans and Sweet Potatoes (recipe page 46)
Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics 44 real food spring 2014
terrific turmeric Want to know the new star in the spice universe?
It’s turmeric, a knotty rhizome (or underground stem), cousin to ginger, and native to India, where it grows wild in the forests and other parts of Southeast Asia. Turmeric plays a commanding role in Indian cuisine and has been prescribed by Ayurvedic doctors for thousands of years for a host of maladies, from stomach and liver ailments to the aches and pains of rheumatism and arthritis. Ground turmeric is also used in facemasks that cleanse and disinfect without stripping the skin’s natural oils. Western researchers first recognized the spice’s value a number of years ago for its renowned anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, but recently it has come to the attention of cancer researchers. The active ingredient, curcumin, which also provides the spice’s yellow color, may have powerful anti-cancer properties. In a recent study, curcumin also held promise in reducing the effects of aging in fruit flies, which have a genetic profile similar to that of humans. Cooks mainly know it as the spice in curry that gives it its golden color, but as you will see, turmeric is a remarkably versatile seasoning that can be added to fruit smoothies and fragrant desserts. Authorities suggest adding a little ground black pepper to increase its health-giving benefits.
by Nina Simonds
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Fragrant Chicken Coconut Curry with Green Beans and Sweet Potatoes Makes 4 to 6 servings
This chicken curry tastes quite different and subtler than a typical curry since the spices are freshly ground and no curry powder is used. I serve it with steamed rice and a simple yogurt raita. 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 chicken legs, separated into thighs and drumsticks, rinsed, and dried with paper towels 2 medium sweet potatoes 3 medium onions, peeled and julienned 2 tablespoons rice wine or sake 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, seeded and diced with juice 1 13.5-ounce can light unsweetened coconut milk 1½ tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar 2½ tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to taste 4 cups green beans, rinsed, drained, and if long, halved diagonally along the length Seasonings 2 small jalapeños, trimmed and seeded 3 stalks lemongrass, ends trimmed to tender heart, tough outer stalks removed, and cut into chunks, or grated peel of 1 lemon 8 cloves garlic 1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon ground coriander 1½ teaspoons ground turmeric 1. Heat a Dutch oven or large casserole with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Arrange chicken skin side down and fry for 5-6 minutes, until golden brown. Using tongs, turn the pieces over and sear another 5-6 minutes until golden brown. Drain on a paper towel. Cover to prevent oil splatter and cook in batches if necessary. 2. For the seasonings: While chicken is cooking, drop ingredients in descending order down the feed tube of a running food processor or blender. Pulse, scraping down sides of bowl with a spatula, to create a rough but even mixture. If lemongrass remains in large pieces, carefully scrape seasonings onto a cutting board and chop by hand. 3. Peel and cut the sweet potatoes in half lengthwise, then cut each half lengthwise again. Cut each strip along the diagonal into 1½ inch pieces. 4. Add remaining oil to pan and heat until very hot. Add seasonings and stir-fry over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, 3 to 4 minutes, until very fragrant. 5. Add onion and stir. Add rice wine, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, 4 minutes, until onion is soft and translucent. Add tomatoes, coconut milk, and sugar, and cook, partially covered, 5 minutes. 6. Add chicken, soy sauce, and lemon juice, stir, and cover. Cook 6 to 7 minutes then add sweet potatoes. Cook another 25 minutes, until a knife pierced through the center of the chicken renders clear juice. Add green beans, cover, and cook 7 to 8 minutes, until tender. Season to taste and serve with steamed jasmine or basmati rice.
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Grilled Hanoi Turmeric Fish Makes 4 servings
Cha Ca La Vong is a famous Vietnamese specialty otherwise known as Hanoi Turmeric Fish with Dill. I first tasted it in Hanoi in the early 1970s, and like many others, I instantly became a fan. Traditionally a catfish is brought to the table after it has been marinated in turmeric and other spices and cooked on a charcoal brazier where it is smothered with fresh dill and served with a classic nu’o´’c cham ˆ´ sauce, a Vietnamese vinaigrette. This version features halibut and fresh dill with a spicy vinaigrette. Marinade 1 teaspoon sugar 2½ teaspoons turmeric 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 cloves garlic, chopped 1 shallot, finely chopped Vietnamese Dressing ¹⁄3 cup fish sauce, or to taste ²⁄3 cup lime or lemon juice ¹⁄3 cup sugar 1½ tablespoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon crushed red chili pepper flakes 3 tablespoons water 1½ pounds halibut fillet, about ¾ to 1 inch thick, sectioned and skinned 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 cups fresh dill, coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons roasted salted peanuts, chopped (optional) 1. For the marinade: In small bowl, whisk together all ingredients. Pour into a large sealable plastic bag, add fish, and turn bag to coat fish. Refrigerate 20 minutes or longer. 2. For the dressing: In medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients 2 to 3 minutes, until sugar dissolves. Set aside. 3. Prepare a medium-hot fire for grilling or preheat a gas grill and arrange a rack 3 to 4 inches from heat. Brush grill with 1 tablespoon oil, arrange fish on grill, and cook, covered, 5 to 6 minutes per side, depending on thickness. To check for doneness, pierce the flesh with a sharp knife; it should be opaque all the way through. Carefully slide onto a platter. 4. Heat a large skillet until hot. Brush with remaining oil over moderately high heat until very hot. Carefully place fish in pan and sprinkle with dill. 5. Pour over dressing and cover 1 minute to seal in juices and wilt dill. Sprinkle with peanuts. Place on a trivet in center of table and serve from pan with a whole grain and a vegetable.
Grilled Hanoi Turmeric Fish
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Spicy Tandoori Tofu Roll-Ups
48 real food spring 2014
Spicy Tandoori Tofu Roll-Ups Makes 4 servings
I like to make my own tandoori marinade with a blend of spices and yogurt, which tenderizes meat and seafood. This recipe uses tofu, which absorbs the flavors beautifully.You can refrigerate and refreeze the marinade in its sealable plastic bag and use it again for chicken or seafood.
2 pounds very firm tofu 2 cups parsley leaves, stems removed 1 cup shredded carrots 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 8 flour tortillas
Tandoori Marinade 1 cup plain Greek yogurt 1½ tablespoons minced ginger 1½ tablespoons minced garlic 1¼ teaspoons dried oregano ¾ teaspoon dried chili flakes 1¼ teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
top PHOTO © Luis Santos - Fotolia.com
Cilantro-Yogurt Dressing 1½ cups plain Greek yogurt 1 teaspoon ground cumin 4 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice (optional) 1. Halve tofu and wrap in paper towels. Place a heavy pot on top and drain, changing towels as necessary. 2. For the marinade: In a medium bowl, mix together all ingredients. Pour into a large sealable plastic bag and add tofu to coat. Seal in bag and refrigerate 20 minutes or longer. 3. For the dressing: Mix together all ingredients and pour into a serving bowl. 4. Rinse and drain parsley and carrots, and place in a bowl. 5. Heat a large frying pan with oil until very hot. Drain tofu, arrange in pan, and fry over moderately high heat 4 to 5 minutes, until golden brown. Carefully flip and fry other side until golden, remove, and drain on paper towels. Let cool slightly and cut into ½-inch-thick slices. Arrange on a serving platter. 6. While tofu is cooking, fold tortillas in half or quarters, wrap in a damp cloth napkin or dishtowel, and steam 1½ minutes in microwave at full power. Arrange on table with tofu, dressing, and parsley-carrot salad. Let each person spoon some dressing onto a tortilla, add tofu, and sprinkle some salad on top before rolling up.
Turmeric’s Health Benefits Turmeric is a beloved Indian spice that is synonymous with health and flavor. It is not only credited with being a powerful antioxidant but is also celebrated for its anti-inflammatory properties and has been used in herbal remedies by Indian, Chinese, and Indonesian practitioners for centuries. “Curcumin is a compound within the volatile oil that is most active when the root is still young,” says spice authority Tom Erd, who with his wife, Patty, co-founded The Spice House, a spice market with several stores in the Chicago area. “The color and most of the medicine is a major phenol, [an aromatic organic compound] found in the rhizome or root of the plant. The spice as we generally know it is made when the fresh roots are first boiled and then dried. The roots are then ground into a deep orange-yellow powder. “We recommend that people keep turmeric in an airtight container away from light and heat,” adds Erd. “Since the oil is volatile, it should only be kept one to one and a half years, after which it will become slightly bitter.” The average amount of curcumin in turmeric is about 3.4 percent. It can reach 5.5 percent and higher in certain regions and during certain crop years. Curcumin from the Alleppey region in Kerala, India’s southern area that is considered the spice capital of the world, usually produces the highest oil. In the spice trade, these rhizomes are known as “Alleppey Fingers.” Recent research has led scientists to believe that turmeric powder holds great promise. Researchers at the University of Texas note that curcumin inhibits the growth of melanoma and may also impede the spread of breast cancer to the lungs. Studies have also shown that curcumin may help delay liver damage that can eventually lead to cirrhosis. For treating osteoarthritis, the National Institutes of Health (NIH) recommends 500 mg. daily of a specific turmeric extract. For soothing an upset stomach, the NIH recommends 500 mg. of turmeric four times daily. All the more reason to add turmeric to your essential spice pantry. Keeping it Fresh If you think you’ve had that jar of dried ground turmeric in your cupboard a long time, it might be a good idea to get a fresh one—the spice’s smell and flavor may become slightly bitter over time. You can also try your own freshly ground turmeric, which has a multidimensional aroma with elements of slight sweetness (almost similar to nutmeg) and full, rich savory qualities somewhere between ground coriander and cumin, but more subtle. (The turmeric root, similar to ginger root, may not be as easily available as the dried ground.)
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easy CoConut riCe Pudding and glaZed aPPle sliCes
GRILLED HANOI TURMERIC FISH: P e r s e rv i n g : C a l o r i e s 274 (78 from fat); Fat 9g (sat. 1g); Chol 65mg; sodiuM 2109mg; CarB 23g; FiBer 1g; Protein 26g
50 real food spring 2014
CHICKEN COCONUT CURRY: Per serving: Calories 500 (200 from fat); Fat 22g (sat. 7g); Chol 92mg; sodiuM 821mg; CarB 41g; FiBer 7g; Protein 38g
SPICY TANDOORI TOFU ROLL-UPS: Per serving: Calories 672 (251 from fat); Fat 29g (sat. 5g); Chol 9mg; sodiuM 1510mg; CarB 65g; FiBer 5g; Protein 43g
COCONUT RICE PUDDING W. GLAZED APPLE SLICES: Per serving: Calories 337 (119 from fat); Fat 13g (sat. 8g); Chol 24mg; sodiuM 302mg; CarB 55g; FiBer 3g; Protein 3g
MIXED FRUIT SMOOTHIE: P e r s e rv i n g : C a l o r i e s 256 (14 from fat); Fat 2g (sat. 0g); Chol 0mg; sodiuM 14mg; CarB 60g; FiBer 16g; Protein 3g
Easy Coconut Rice Pudding
Glazed Apple Slices
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Makes 4 servings
This intoxicatingly delicious yet easy-to-make pudding paired with the Glazed Apple Slices makes for a wonderfully satisfying dessert.
This is a simple but sumptuous topping for the Easy Coconut Rice Pudding, but it is delicious on its own with a dollop of whipping cream or some ice cream to make it even more voluptuous.
1 cup cooked arborio rice 1 15-ounce can unsweetened light coconut milk, stirred well ½ cup half-and-half ¼ cup sugar 1 teaspoon turmeric ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1. In a heavy saucepan, bring rice, coconut milk, half-and-half, sugar, turmeric, salt, and nutmeg to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook, uncovered, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened. 2. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Pour into a serving bowl or individual ramekins and serve with Glazed Apple Slices.
Mixed Fruit Smoothie Makes 1 to 2 servings
My friend, who is the chief nutritionist at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute, adds turmeric to her morning smoothies because she believes it helps prevent cancer and other diseases. She inspired me to create this delicious and easy drink, which can be made for breakfast or a snack. You also can add 2 teaspoons ground flaxseed for some extra omega-3 essential fatty acids, fiber, and plant estrogen and antioxidants. 1½ 1 1½ 1 1 ½ ½
3 1 3 2 1 ¼ 2
golden delicious apples halved lemon tablespoons light brown sugar teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon salt tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Peel, core, and cut apples into ½-inch-thick slices. Rub with lemon and squeeze over some lemon juice to prevent browning. In a small bowl, combine sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, and salt with ¼ cup water. 2. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat butter over moderately high heat until foam subsides. Add apples and fry until golden on 1 side. Carefully flip and cook 4 to 5 minutes, until tender. 3. Add sauce and cook, uncovered, 3–5 minutes until reduced to a glaze. Remove and serve over Easy Coconut Rice Pudding.
cups frozen berries cup whole-fat yogurt tablespoons maple syrup teaspoon turmeric teaspoon vanilla extract teaspoon freshly ground pepper cup coarsely chopped ice (optional)
1. In a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade, purée berries until smooth. Add yogurt, syrup, turmeric, vanilla, and pepper, and pulse until smooth. Add chopped ice and drink. ■
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52 real food spring 2014
By Tara Q. Thomas
Daniel Boulud from farm to restaurant
Imagine never having set foot in a grocery store until age 14. Imagine never having set foot in a restaurant, either. And now imagine that person is roundly acclaimed as one of the greatest chefs cooking in the United States today. That arc describes the life of Daniel Boulud, the man behind Daniel, one of only seven restaurants in New York to earn Michelin’s three-star rating; the restaurant also garnered three stars from The New York Times this past summer, the restaurant’s twentieth year. It’s a remarkable rise for a kid who grew up slopping pigs and tending vegetables on a farm outside of Lyon, France—and Daniel is only one of many restaurants Boulud runs. There are seven in New York, some of which have spawned siblings in places as far afield as Florida, Montreal, Toronto, London, and Singapore. Boulud also has a television show of his own, After Hours with Daniel, in which he hangs out with chef friends after the guests have gone home and they can cook for themselves. And he’s penned a small library of books. Yet for all the activity, Daniel remains the focal point of his efforts, a centerpiece now captured in Boulud’s newest book, Daniel: My French Cuisine. “My other books—books like Braise, Café Boulud, Cocktails—were books in which the inspiration was to make the food accessible,” he explains when I catch him just before the lunch rush one chilly morning in New York City. “Daniel is about the restaurant, about me and my team,” he says, adding with a laugh, “I finally reveal my full identity.”
He’s joking, but there’s truth to it, as creating Daniel, the restaurant, has been his life’s work. “When I opened Daniel the first time, I didn’t have the other restaurants, and I loved to cook everything—rustic bistro dishes, haute cuisine—from the most refined to the most peasant dishes,” Boulud tells me. When he moved the restaurant into its current space on the corner of 65th Street and Park Avenue, he did it with the intention of making it “une maison pour la vie,” he says, a home for life. He went so far as to move in upstairs, installing a window with a view into the kitchen (“the skybox,” as it’s known downstairs), so he could keep tabs on the action even when he was “off.” In the restaurant, he began honing, spinning bistro dishes off to more casual restaurants such as Bar Boulud and DBGB so he could tighten the focus at Daniel. “Daniel today is richness and sophistication,” he says. That richness and sophistication is laid out in glorious detail in Daniel, the book. It’s the sort of volume that chefs will pour over, studying the recipes for ideas and techniques to inspire and improve their cooking. It’s eye candy for chef groupies, too, who will display it proudly on their coffee tables. It may, in fact, be the sort of book you’ll take one look at and think, “I’ll never make any of that; forget it.” But if you like to think about food, and about how a dish comes to be, you’ll find this a fas-
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cinating read, for it’s in this volume that he reveals the breadth of his inspirations and the essential heart of them. That isn’t to say the recipes are inaccessible—in fact, Boulud quickly points out that they’ve worked hard to explain every step very carefully, so that anyone with the time and gumption to make them will come out with a favorable result. But also, he adds, full commitment isn’t required. “It’s very easy to make just part of a recipe,” he says. “You could just make a garnish, or [borrow] the seasoning; in every case, you can take something useful away without having to recreate the entire recipe.” In fact, the most engrossing section of the book has no recipes. Part II, “Iconic Sessions,” is built around the recreation of twelve dishes he considers iconic in the French repertoire, dishes that hark back to the days of Antoine Câreme and Auguste Escoffier, 18th-century chefs who were instrumental in defining what has come to be known as “classic French cuisine.” (Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire was one of the first books Boulud ever bought, from his earnings working as a cook at age 14; it remains an essential reference for serious chefs today.) “The idea was to bring back the idea of old-fashioned French cooking that nobody does anymore,” Boulud says. “I always enjoyed doing those dishes. It’s going back in time, to the formation of what inspires us today.” Creating the dishes was also an adventure for every cook involved, most especially Bill
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Buford, a writer and an ambitious cook who Boulud roped in to be a central player in their recreation. (“I wanted to have a bonding experience with him,” Boulud explains; “he’d just spent four years in Lyon immersed in French cooking; I wanted to show him the dishes no one else had.”) There were no recipes; an extensive team of Boulud’s chefs plus Buford worked off of written descriptions and illustrations in old texts, plus a lot of input from Boulud himself, the only one who’d had any experience with most of them. Each dish took days to create, the final results huge, architectural affairs meant to entertain royalty. At some level, no one in their right mind would go to these extremes anymore to impress; it’s not necessary or fashionable. And yet, Boulud insists, it’s important to know these recipes. “For instance, when I came to the U.S., everyone was talking about coulibiac,” he says, referring to a recipe involving a salmon baked in a crust. “This was puzzling for me; it had no real soulful meaning to me. But Craig Claiborne, Pierre Franey, these older great chefs were doing it.” When Craig Claiborne invited him over to make dinner—a sort of rite of passage for young French chefs arriving in New York— Boulud decided to make it for him. Boulud passed the test, yet the recipe has stuck with him; specifically the challenge of how to deal with the fact that either the fish is cooked perfectly but the pastry isn’t, or vice versa. When the team sets out to make it for “Iconic Sessions,” they toss out the first four attempts, and Boulud stresses about the recipe for days. He finally finds an opening for an improvement by scrutinizing Escoffier himself, whose description he’d been working off of, rather than the recipe. The newly refined recipe turns out to be fabulous … until Buford relates to Boulud some historical details of the dish his research has brought up, opening up a possibility of a further improvement. Is Boulud bitter? Maybe in that moment he was, but not now. “It’s fantastic, the combination of tradition and the academic, for the chef,” he says, sounding positively exhilarated by the challenge. “It makes you engaged in a way that’s much more meaningful.” For Buford, the experience also pointed out a more universally relatable truth: “If cooking knowledge is not carefully passed from one generation to the next, it doesn’t last,” he writes. In his calculation, it took less
Poulet à l’Estragon makes 6 to 8 servings
salt 15 golf ball–size tomatoes 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 (2- to 3-pound) farm-raised chickens, each cut into 8 pieces freshly ground white pepper 4 large shallots, sliced 10 ounces pearl onions 2 tablespoons tomato paste 3 tablespoons flour ½ cup tarragon vinegar 2 cups chicken stock ½ bunch tarragon
than 60 years for coulibiac to drop out of the classic repertoire, and all the knowledge that went with its preparation disappeared. “To me it’s always important to keep reference with the past, to stay connected,” Boulud says. In this way, the recipes in the last section of the book—“Daniel at Home”—are just as important as the “icons,” as they are some of his formative foods, riffs on dishes he made as a young chef, and classics that speak clearly of place and tradition. A great recipe isn’t just an instruction for how to get dinner on the table; it’s a telescoping of history, tradition, and place onto the plate, immortalizing them in taste. With that, we present you Boulud’s Poulet à l’Estragon, a fancy name for a simple braised chicken that he learned at his very first job, as a farm boy-newly-turned cook at age 14.
Rice Pilaf 1½ cups basmati rice 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 shallot, minced 2 tablespoons butter 2½ cups chicken stock 1 teaspoon salt 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme 2 sprigs tarragon Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée salt 1 pound yellow wax beans, trimmed 2 tablespoons butter freshly ground white pepper ½ bunch tarragon, leaves chopped
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and set a bowl of ice water on the side. Score an X on the bottoms of the tomatoes. Boil them for 5 seconds, or until the skins loosen on the bottoms. Strain and peel under cold running water; set aside. 2. In a 5-quart braising pan over medium high heat, melt the butter with the oil. 3. Season the chicken on all sides with salt and pepper. Add the chicken to the pan skin side down and sear until golden brown on both sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a platter, set aside, and strain all but 1 tablespoon fat from the pan. 4. Reduce the heat to medium and add the shallots and onions to the pan. Cook, stirring, until the shallots are soft. Add the tomato paste and flour and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add the vinegar, bring to a simmer, then stir in the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan. 5. Return the chicken to the pan with half of the tomatoes and the tarragon. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. 6. Add the remaining tomatoes, cover, and simmer for another 20 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. For the Rice Pilaf: 1. Rinse the rice with cold water until it runs clear. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring, until translucent. Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the butter, chicken stock, salt, bay leaf, thyme, and tarragon and bring to a simmer. 2. Cover and cook undisturbed over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork.
photos and recipe from Daniel, my french cuisine by daniel boulud, photography by thomas schauer; Copyright © 2013; Published by Grand Central Life & Style
For the Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée: 1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and boil for 4 minutes, or until tender. 2. Strain, return the beans to the pan over medium-low heat, and toss with the butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss in the tarragon leaves just before serving.
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A Favored Fizz BY MARY SUBIALKA
MIX IT UP For a brunch twist, use it in a Mimosa: Fill a wine glass or champagne flute halfway with chilled Prosecco (about 1 ounce) and top off with chilled orange juice (about 2 ounces), gently stir. If you’d like, add a splash of triple sec or Grand Marnier to taste. ■
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PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS
Prosecco is becoming more and more popular lately, and with good reason. This reasonably priced sparkling wine from Italy is, plain and simply, darn tasty. Fruitier than Champagne, straw-colored Prosecco is prized for its delicate flavors and aromas, which are often described as having citrus overtones and being reminiscent of ripe pears, melons, and sweet apples with hints of almonds. Hailing from the eastern part of Italy’s Veneto region, in the foothills of the Alps (just north of Venice), Prosecco is produced from the grape of the same name (sometimes combined with a small amount of Pinot Blanc or Pinot Grigio), and made into lightly sparkling (frizzante) and fully sparkling (spumante) styles. Traditionally, it has been off-dry or slightly sweet, but many today are crisp and dry and produced principally in two versions—brut and extra dry (which is actually slightly sweeter than the brut). Prosecco has a persistent taste and is clean on the palate, which makes it great with food such as egg dishes, almonds and other nuts, fresh cheese, green salad, Chinese food, white meats, or pasta dishes with a light meat sauce. Crab, lobster, shrimp, salmon, or sea scallops also make tasty matches. And sweet, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese offers a nice counterpoint to this fresh bubbly. As the Venetians do in Prosecco’s homeland, enjoy it throughout the meal.
SAUCE SO GOOD, ITALIAN CHEFS WISH WE’D DISAPPEAR.
The perfect blend of tomato,100% Bertolli ® Olive Oil, basil, garlic & onion. No wonder chefs are taking it so hard. Now you don’t have to be an Italian chef to be an Italian chef.