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DR .W EI L ON FL

Lunds and Byerly’s

OR AV FU L RE AL FO OD SPRING 2013

COMPLIMENTARY

DOWN LO THE N AD EW LUNDS A ND BYERL Y 'S APP! (PAGE 10)

Sumptuous and Satisfying

WHOLE-MEAL SALADS SALMON SALAD NIÇOISE (RECIPE PAGE 28)

03

FREE

GLUTEN FREE: Delicious dishes sans gluten are easier than ever EFFORTLESS APPETIZERS: Create a great party with flavor-packed bites ROTISSERIE CHICKEN: Start counting the easy weeknight meals


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contents

real food

39

p.

spring 2013

Features 26 Whole-Meal Salads Sumptuous and satisfying salads are the perfect answer to a weeknight meal or the main course of a casual dinner party. BY NINA SIMONDS

34 Effortless Appetizers By planning ahead and dividing the work, creating irresistible bites that are big on flavor and flair is a piece of cake. BY SERENA BASS

44 Gluten-Free Gourmand From banana bread and chocolate chip cookies to pizza, delicious dishes sans gluten have never been easier. BY ROBIN ASBELL

52 Poultry in Motion Rotisserie chicken makes it easy to turn out delicious and quick meals any day of the week. BY MADGE BAIRD

60 Tried and True Dr. Andrew Weil is spreading the word that food that’s good for you can taste good, too. BY LISA ROGAK

2 real food spring 2013

Our Cover Salmon Salad Niçoise (page 28). This page: Crudites with Chipotle Mayonnaise (page 39). Photographs by Terry Brennan


The Rebirth of a Legend.

Introducing

TWIN® Four Star II

from Zwilling J.A. Henckels, the

TWIN is a registered trademarks of Zwilling J.A. Henckels, Inc.

© 2007 Zwilling J.A. Henckels, Inc.

dramatic successor to FOUR STAR, the world’s most popular fine knives for 30 years.

Perfectly balanced. Precision-forged from a single piece of our exclusive high-carbon, no-stain steel. Like every Henckels knife, it comes with our famous lifetime warranty.

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ZWILLING J.A.HENCKELS

PASSION FOR THE BEST. SINCE 1731.

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The leading independent product testing organization ranks Henckels TWIN knives #1 and #2 among all brands.


contents

Departments 6 Contributors 18 Countertop Ideas for entertaining with flair plus fun and functional kitchen gadgets BY STYLE ARCHITECTS

22 Kitchen Skills Chop onions like a pro for use in countless dishes.

18

BY JASON ROSS

64 Pairings Nothing says spring like rosĂŠ.

64

22

PUBLISHER STEVE FOX EDITOR JOEL SCHETTLER ART DIRECTORS JAMIE JOHNSON AND JEREMY NELSON DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES LAURIE ETCHEN SENIOR EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MANDY FINDERS SALES MANAGER JENNIFER MCALPIN

VOLUME 9, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media Group Inc., 600 U.S. Trust Building, 730 Second Ave. S., Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media Group Inc. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com

4 real food spring 2013

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.


©201 ©201 011 Sargen rg ttoo Foods o , Inc. ood c

SOMETHING AMAZING HAPPENS WHEN TWO NATURAL CHEESES COME TOGETHER.

The amazing Sargento Natural Blends.. ®

A whole new way to enjoy slices and snacks. Available in 3 delicious varieties.. Learn more at Sargento.com/naturalblends and find us on Facebook..

Taste the real difference..


contributors

Serena Bass

is known for being New York City’s caterer to the stars and has thrown parties for Andy Warhol, Giorgio Armani, Kate Spade, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nathan Lane, and countless others. Her cookbook, Serena, Food & Stories, won the James Beard Award for best entertaining book. Currently, Bass is also the executive chef at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York, and holds monthly cooking classes in Saint Paul, Minnesota. Photograph by David Loftus.

Nina Simonds

is an award-winning author, journalist, and one of the country’s leading authorities on Asian food and culture. In 2001, Newsweek named her one of “America’s Top Twenty-Five Asian Hands.” She is the author of 11 books on Chinese cuisine and culture, including the best-selling A Spoonful of Ginger and Spices of Life, both of which won both the IACP and the James Beard Foundation Book Award for Health. Her latest cookbook, Simple Asian Meals was published last January. Her popular food, health, and lifestyle website is at spicesoflife.com.

Madge Baird

is a seasoned cookbook editor and the author of 101 Things To Do With Rotisserie Chicken, 200 Soups, and 101 Things To Do With Apples. She lives in northern Utah, where she is an avid gardener, a fledgling beekeeper, and owns a small farmers’ market business, Farmgirl Produce.

Lisa Rogak

is the New York Times bestselling author of more than 40 books and writes about food, travel, and wine for Celebrated Living, Wine Enthusiast, and several other publications. Her latest book is Dogs of Courage: The Heroism and Heart of Working Dogs Around the World. After spending a year as a full-time nomad, she recently settled in Berkeley, California.

Robin Asbell

Terry Brennan

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

6 real food spring 2013

Jason Ross

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher, and private chef. She likes to add special touches to dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains, with an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes No Meat No Dairy All Delicious, which follows The New Whole Grains Cookbook, and the New Vegetarian.

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.


THE NEW HOT DRINK.

Hot or cold, brewed fresh, not shaken or stirred. Drink something good for you ... Bigelow green tea. To your health! - The Bigelow Family Visit www.bigelowtea.com for tea drink recipes, gift ideas, and health information.


FLAME® is Emile Henry’s newest innovation in ceramic technology. Designed to work on the barbeque, (gas, charcoal, natural wood or electric cooking), in the oven and under the broiler at temperatures up to 750°F (400°C).

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• Turns any barbeque grill into an outdoor pizza oven. • Scratch resistant, you can cut directly on the stone without damaging the surface. • Glazed surface is easy to clean, dishwasher safe.


Lunds and Byerly’s welcome LunDS Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Edina: 952-926-6833 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka: 952-935-0198 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Richfield: 612-861-1881 St. Paul: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222

ByerLy’S Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Edina: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul: 651-735-6340

SHOP OnLine LundsandByerlys.com

fOOD QueSTiOnS? Get answers from our foode experts. 952-548-1400 Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m–6 p.m.

CLASSeS & eVenTS Cooking Classes • 952-253-3409 Lunds and Byerly’s Catering 952-897-9800 • catering@lfhi.com Catering.LundsandByerlys.com

REAL FOOD COMMenTS Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663

STAy COnneCTeD:

facebook.com/LundsandByerlys Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys

our stores at your FinGertiPs

W

hile I firmly believe no piece of technology should or will completely replace the most fundamental, powerful, and enriching for m of communication, namely face-to-face conversations, I do find myself increasingly relying on technological connectivity.Whether I’m using my smartphone to follow the day’s news, weather, and stock market or, more importantly, using it to stay closely connected with family and friends, it’s a device I don’t leave home without. Today, that almost puts me in the majority. According to the Pew Research Center, 88 percent of U.S. adults own a cell phone and more than half use their phones to go online.That’s a dramatic increase from just three years ago when 33 percent of cell owners went online using their phones. For the younger generations, survey data is showing they are increasingly using their phones to do almost all of their online browsing. Here at Lunds and Byerly’s, we’re constantly striving to provide you with in-store and digital features and services designed to meet your busy, on-the-go lifestyle. One of our newest offerings is our Lunds and Byerly’s App. Now, with the tap of a button on your smartphone, you can view our expansive product selection, weekly deals, recipes, store events, and more.To learn about our app and its many features, see pages 10-11.

A feature I think you’re re a l l y g o i n g to like is the ability to scan products and immediately add them to your shopping Tres list. Maybe you Lund just pulled the last steak out of the freezer, used the last of the olive oil, or grabbed the last cracker in the box. Now you can simply scan the items using our app so they are on your list for your next visit to one of our stores. Just as technology continues to advance, our app will do the same. Based on your feedback and our own learnings, the app will continue to evolve to ensure it’s a tool you find useful and beneficial for you and your family. If you’re not an app user, there are many other ways you can stay digitally connected to us. Whether it’s signing up for our weekly e-mail or text club or joining us on Facebook, Twitter, or Pinterest, we’re sharing expertise, inspiration, and exclusive special offers through an increasing number of digital channels. Regardless of where technology takes us or how you choose to connect with us, we thank you for giving us the opportunity to serve you. As always, we hope you continue to enjoy Real Food! Sincerely,

Tres Lund Chairman and CEO

Sign up for our e-newsletter at LundsandByerlys.com Join our Text Club by texting DeALS to 95173.

LundsandByerlys.com real food 9


Lunds and Byerly’s what's new

There’s an App for That By DAn O’rOurKe, Lunds and Byerly’s Marketing Manager

Y

ou’re putting away the groceries and realize you forgot to add cereal to your list. Again. There’s an app for that. You need a specific type of balsamic vinegar and want to know if it’s available at our stores. There’s an app for that.You want to make something tasty for dinner and need a recipe, stat! Yes, there’s even an app for that. We recently launched the Lunds and Byerly’s app for all your grocery shopping and food expertise needs as a way to extend our exceptional in-store experience to the convenience of your smartphone. With three growing kids who, of course, play every sport imaginable, things get a little crazy around my house. Making a shopping list or trying to figure out what’s on sale while I’m at the grocery store only slows down my already tight schedule. If you’re like me, you’ll discover our new app is a great resource and a big time saver. Download our free app by visiting the Google Play Market on your Android phone or the App Store on your iPhone. Be sure to provide us your feedback! ■

hoMePaGe

shoPPinG Lists

At the top of every page there is a green bar with search and shopping list icons to provide you with quick access to both features.

With the shopping list feature you can view and edit multiple shopping lists. Add new items, delete products you’ve purchased, or create a new list for that big party you’re hosting.

Download our app today!

The app homepage showcases our weekly Huge Deals along with information about special events and services we offer. This is also where we will highlight special app-exclusive contests.

Scan the QR code or visit LundsandByerlys.com from your mobile device.

At the bottom of every page there is a black bar that allows you to browse our product selection, access our recipes and events, and view store information.

10 real food spring 2013

To add new items to a list, you can search, type, or scan products using our in-app barcode scanner. Click items on your shopping lists to view product information and sale prices.


Lunds and Byerly’s what's new The Lunds and Byerly's app brings shopping convenience and food expertise right to your phone.

events and cLasses

search Products

The “Get Inspired” section allows you to view upcoming store events and cooking classes.

Our app allows you to view nearly every product in our stores. When you click on a specific item, you’ll see the size and price, including the sale price if applicable.

Click the “Recipes” button to search through thousands of recipes. you can add a recipe's ingredients to your grocery list with the tap of a button. The “News” button features our latest social media updates.

You can then quickly add any product to your shopping list.

store Locator/ inForMation Our app provides a map view of all Lunds and Byerly’s. you can also find the closest store to your current location. Each store’s page shows you the address, hours, phone number, and services offered at that location. With the tap of a button, you can call the store.

LundsandByerlys.com real food 11


Lunds and Byerly’s healthy living

Nutritional Surprises The NuVal nutritional Scoring System makes quick nutritional decisions easy in the grocery aisles. By JAniCe COX, rD, LD, Lunds and Byerly’s registered Dietitian

F

rom cereal and crackers to ice cream and juice, there are common misconceptions about the nutritional quality of foods. The fact is, it’s easy to be fooled—even unintentionally—into what we think is better for us to eat.The results, however, are quite clear: obesity and heart disease rates in America continue to skyrocket. A leading contributor to the problem is confusion about how to find better nutrition. This past fall we launched the NuVal Nutritional Scoring System in all of our Lunds and Byerly’s stores. NuVal scores give you the ability to easily compare the overall nutritional quality of foods at a glance. For those unfamiliar with this system, NuVal gives foods and drinks a score from 1 to 100—the higher the score, the higher the nutrition. Nearly 15,000 products throughout our stores have a NuVal score and you’ll find it right on the shelf tag next to the pr ice. To learn more, visit LundsandByerlys. com/NuVal. As I talk about the NuVal system with our customers, many are surprised

30

12 real food spring 2013

to learn foods they thought were highly nutritious are not always the better choice. Here are some examples. Craisins score a 4 on the NuVal scale, while raisins score an 87. Why? Craisins have added sugar, while raisins are naturally sweet. When it comes to frozen treats, fruit bars often seem like a healthier option than ice cream. That’s not always the case, though, because of the high sugar content found in many frozen fruit bars. If you’re looking to trade up, try a Skinny Cow bar with a NuVal score of 25. In the juice aisle, you’ll find many labels stating the products are made from 100 percent juice with no sugar added.While that is likely true, from a nutritional standpoint, many of these products contain juice concentrate that has been stripped of many nutritional qualities. Go for 100 percent fruit juices like orange and grapefruit that have a NuVal score around 30. Let’s look at one more example.Which of these products do you think packs a more nutritional punch: Del Monte diced tomatoes with no salt added or Del Monte diced

87

tomatoes with basil, garlic, and oregano?You might think the added herbs in option two would give that product a higher nutritional value, but it scores a 34 compared to the can of diced tomatoes with no salt added that has a NuVal score of 81. A closer look at the ingredient label for the diced tomatoes with added herbs reveals the addition of high fructose corn syrup, which lowers the overall nutritional quality of the product. The wonderful thing about NuVal is you don’t have to spend lots of time analyzing a product’s ingredient label. NuVal has already done that for you so you can simply look at the score and make quick nutritional

81

25 decisions! For more information on NuVal or other nutrition-related questions, call me at 952-541-1414. ■


Lunds and Byerly’s baking

Mixing It Up

Lunds and Byerly’s Baking Mix Collection

By Julie Griffin, Director of Lunds and Byerly’s Products

W

e’re constantly in our test kitchen and working with local producers to create new, extraordinary Lunds and Byerly’s products. In the last year alone, we launched more than 20 new products, including a complete line of baking mixes. We hope you enjoy our newest creations! (See below.) In addition to the new mixes, the rest of our baking mix line includes: Lunds and Byerly’s delicate Swedish pancake mix, savory or sweet crêpe mix, golden crust popover, golden rich Minnesota pancake

mix, and original golden malted pancake and waffle mix. Most of our mixes are products of Sturdiwheat, a local supplier in Red Wing, Minnesota. Sturdiwheat was founded in 1939 when farmer Arnold Kaehler began experimenting with wheat in his kitchen. Before long he had a cereal, a pancake mix, and a patent on a new process for grinding and screening wheat layers. Sturdiwheat continues to use Kaehler’s patented process and his passion—only the highest quality wheat is used in order to retain the maximum nutritional value.

Our gluten-free and original golden malted pancake and waffle mixes are made by Carbon’s Golden Malted. Since 1937, when their patented recipe for golden malted pancake and waffle flour was developed, they’ve created delicious, golden-brown waffles and light, fluffy pancakes. Visit our baking aisle to pick up these tasty mixes. Whether you’re preparing a family brunch or cooking something special for your sweetheart, our Lunds and Byerly’s baking mixes are sure to be new favorites in your house! ■

Lunds and Byerly’s Traditional Danish Ebelskiver Mix

Lunds and Byerly’s Sweet or Savory Cornbread Mix

Lunds and Byerly’s Gluten-Free Pancake & Waffle Mix

Our traditional Danish stuffed pancake treats are light and fluffy. They bake up perfectly in the traditional rounded, puffed Danish pancake shape. Tip: Fill them with applesauce to add a sweet, traditional flavor to your breakfast.

This cornbread comes out moist with a perfect crumb texture. Tip: Add banana and chocolate chips to make deliciously sweet cornbread muffins or add chipotle sauce to make Texas-style cornbread to accompany your favorite chili or stew.

These come hot off the griddle with a light, fluffy texture because of the high quality rice, corn, and soy. Tested by chefs on a gluten-free diet, the great taste and texture is resoundingly excellent. Tip: To satisfy that sweet tooth, top with fresh apples and cinnamon, or load your batter with blueberries before baking.

Lunds and Byerly’s Whole Wheat Pancake & Waffle Mix With 26 grams of whole grains per serving, these pancakes and waffles come out slightly dense and richly golden. Tip: Make a waffle sandwich! Spread Nutella over your warm waffles and top with fresh berries and whipped cream. Add a second waffle on top and your sandwich is ready to go.

LundsandByerlys.com real food 13


Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store

WiLdWood orGanic saLsa Wildwood Organic Salsa is made with only fresh, high-quality, and 100 percent organic ingredients. This low-calorie, fat-free, and glutenfree product is a healthy snack option and comes in mild, medium, and hot. It’s delicious, fresh salsa with the perfect balance of flavor and heat in every bite!

Tip: Try Wildwood Salsa in your favorite meatloaf recipe or stir into creamy macaroni and cheese. For a burst of fresh, piquant flavor, top it on your best grilled meats, fish, scrambled eggs, or omelets.

WHEAt MOntAnA FLOUR Wheat Montana’s 15,000-acre, high mountain valley farm employs strict sustainable farming practices. This wheat is GMO free and certified chemical free after each harvest. Their hammer milling process lets them capture 100 percent of the nutritional value of their wheat varieties—nothing is added or taken out.

Tip: Each bag of Wheat Montana flour and cereal comes with a family farm favorite recipe and detailed instructions. Try their old-fashioned cookie, whole-wheat bread, or homemade granola bar recipes!

CRYSTAL LIGHT LIQUID You know the Crystal Light packets—now Crystal Light is also available in liquid varieties. Flip open the bottle, give a squeeze into your water, and indulge. With six great flavors, like strawberry lemonade and iced tea, your water will get a flavor makeover that might just make your taste buds dance.

Tip: Crystal Light is great for mocktails! It’s a twist on drinks— healthier ways to bring happy hour to you. Look for drink mixes in some of your favorite cocktail flavors, like Pomtini and peach Bellini, in Crystal Light liquid.

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Lunds and Byerly’s

pERRiER

what’s in store

Perrier is one of the most widely exported French beverages. With its unique taste and fizzing bubbles, this sparkling mineral water provides the ultimate in refreshment. Along with the glass bottles, Perrier now offers slim cans in original, lime, and grapefruit flavors. Same bubbles, just a new body.

Did you know? Every ounce of natural mineral water is slowly filtered by rocks and sand, from which it derives its mineral content (calcium, magnesium, potassium, etc.).

aLessi BaLsaMic reductions Alessi Balsamic Reductions enhance the flavor of any dish and can be used on just about everything. They don’t have thickeners or fillers, so the flavors of every ingredient are highlighted rather than masked. Flavors include ginger infused, traditional balsamic, white balsamic, and raspberry infused.

Tip: Use the white balsamic ginger infused reduction over grilled salmon, shrimp, sushi rolls, or stir-fried chicken. Try raspberry infused over cheesecake, grilled peaches and feta cheese, and vanilla ice cream.

LUNDS AND BYERLY’S ORGANIC TEA Lunds and Byerly’s new organic tea collection features an assortment of organic, fair-trade teas made from globally sourced ingredients. These premium tea blends, great for both hot and iced teas, are available in eight varieties, including black, herbal, green, fruit, and chai tea. The all-natural tea bags allow the leaves to fully expand as water freely circulates within the pyramid-shaped bag, delivering a more flavorful cup of tea.

Did you know? The box, string, envelopes, tags, and bags can be returned to the earth and will degrade naturally without adding any toxic matter. LundsandByerlys.com real food 15


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*Visit LundsandByerlys.com/Grill for contest rules and alternate forms of entry.


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superior cocoa beans. Organically. Call us traditional, but we believe it’s worth the extra effort because we care deeply about the environment, about our growers, and about achieving the richest, most complex chocolate flavor we possibly can.

Made with passion. Consumed with pleasure.™

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© 2007 Green & Black's USA, Inc.


countertop

Spring into Style Add colorful and festive flair to entertain in style this season. PRODUCTION & STYLING STYLE ARCHITECTS PHOTOGRAPHY ALEX STEINBERG

COMFY COZY Continue to use your outdoor living space during those chilly spring nights with this sleek and stylish heater. Patio Heater, $1,595, Frontgate, frontgate.com

HAVE A DRINK Casual outdoor entertaining is stylish and easy with this self-serve drink dispenser. Add some excitement by mixing in a variety of assorted glassware. Mason Jar Drink Dispenser $69, Rhodes Drink Dispenser Stand $19, Pottery Barn, potterybarn.com; Anthropologie assorted glassware, $6-$12, Anthropologie, anthropologie.com

Cheese, Please A slate tray is a great way to serve cheese, suggests caterer Serena Bass ("Effortless Appetizers," p. 34). Use chalk to ID cheese varieties so guests can easily find their favorite frommage. This option is made of reclaimed elementary school chalkboard and features reclaimed wine cork feet. $48, UncommonGoods, uncommongoods.com

18 real food spring 2013

SLATE TRAY COURTESY OF UNCOMMONGOODS; HEATER COURTESY OF FRONTGATE

COLOR SPLASH Liven up the party with these bold shades. Colorful pieces and fun, vibrant patterns can set a playful scene. Lacquer Tray, $32, West Elm, westelm.com, Ayaka Mug, $14 each, Anthropologie, anthropologie.com


The Dos and Don’ts of Spring Entertaining By Rachelle Mazumdar, Director of Weddings + Events, Style-Architects style-architects.com

NOTHING SAYS SPRING MORE THAN COLOR Whip out the brilliant hues that have been in hiding all winter long! They are sure to brighten up the party and set a playful scene.

BRIGHT BUZZ These hand-painted and glazed terra cotta Hive Vases are made to look like honeycombs. The brilliant hues are a perfect accent to fresh flowers or branches. Hive Vases, $24-$34, West Elm, westelm.com

MIX AND MATCH MODERN GLASSWARE WITH VINTAGE PIECES Combine your new and old pieces for an eclectic and fun look. The different patterns and styles will leave your guests intrigued by your creativity but will still appear cohesive. DON’T BE AFRAID TO USE TEXTURE Use serving pieces with different textures and materials. The depth and variety will catch your guests’ eyes.

SHIMMER AND SHINE Using traditional metalworking techniques, these hand-hammered metal serving pieces bring unique texture, shape, and reflection anywhere they go. Hammered Serving Ware, $5-$24, West Elm, westelm.com

LIGHTEN UP THE MOOD Take your outdoor entertaining well into the night by lighting up your backyard. French café-inspired string lights will create the perfect ambiance for your party! SPRING TULIP The elegant fluting shape and natural golden-honey tones of this set enhance the presentation of any salad. Tulip Salad Bowl, $149, Tulip Salad Hands, $39, WilliamsSonoma, williams-sonoma.com

PARTY ON Take your outdoor entertaining well into the night by lighting up your backyard. The lights, often seen in Italy’s piazzas, create ambiance and set the mood for your party. Party Globe Light String, $39, Restoration Hardware, RH.com

IMPLEMENT SOME SELF-SERVICE ELEMENTS You don’t need servers and passed drinks and hors d’oeuvres to wow your guests. A stylish self-serve drink dispenser goes perfectly with a relaxed, outdoor theme! PLAY WITH PATTERNS Step outside the box and take an artful spin on casual dining. Don’t frown on mixing and matching different patterns; it’s the perfect way to make a statement! STAY COMFY COZY Don’t be afraid to use your outdoor living space during those chilly spring nights. A sleek and stylish heater or an array of fun throws are perfect elements to warm up your guests!

spring 2013 real food 19


countertop

Add Fun to Function A new kitchen gadget can add a little spice to your life.

ALMIGHTY SAVER Keep fresh herbs at their peak for weeks with this innovative storage device. Herb Saver, $29.95, Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com

SMART COOKING This his Smart Tools collection makes it easy for you to watch cooking videos, search for recipes, and listen to music while you cook and entertain. Smart mart Tools for iPad, $199.95, Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com

The Right Tool for the Job

Le Cordon Bleu chef instructor Jason Ross ("Kitchen Skills," p. 22) recommends: SPLURGE: Shun Premier 8-inch Chef's Knife $178, amazon.com SAVE: Victorinox Swiss Army 8-inch Fibrox Chef’s Knife $50, victorinox.com

20 real food spring 2013

MYSTIFIED Citrus misting can’t get any fresher. Just pop the mister right into the fruit and spritz away! This tool is perfect for salads, seafood, and cocktails. Citrus Mister, $14.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

TOP KNIFE © 2012 KAI USA LTD; BOTTOM KNIFE © VICTORINOX

RISE UP Each spoon or ladle has a special weighted handle that’s designed to raise the head of the utensil off your work space, eliminating the need for a spoon rest. Elevated Carousel Utensil Set, $50, UncommonGoods, uncommongoods.com


©2006 Unilever

SAUCE SO GOOD, ITALIAN CHEFS WISH WE’D DISAPPEAR.

The perfect blend of tomato,100% Bertolli ® Olive Oil, basil, garlic & onion. No wonder chefs are taking it so hard. Now you don’t have to be an Italian chef to be an Italian chef.


kitchen skills

Onion Cutting 101 BY JASON ROSS Culinary Instructor Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota

O

n the first day of culinary school, not minutes after students receive their hats, jackets, and knives, training begins with basic cutting technique—and it starts with the onion. Integral to so many dishes, the humble onion is a perfect opportunity to learn about knife skills. Here, we explain three essential cuts: ciseler (finely minced), emincer (thinly sliced), and rouelle (rounds).

ROOT END

STEM END

Safety First • Use a sharp, high-quality knife for good control. • Keep the knuckles and thumb of your non-blade hand curled under and out of the way of the knife edge. Rest the side of the knife against your curled-under knuckles, using them as a guide and rest for the blade as you cut. • Secure your cutting board by placing a damp towel underneath it to prevent slipping or moving.

TRICKS of the TRADE:

Ciseler (Finely Minced)

2.

22 real food spring 2013

3.

Rinse Onions 3. Cut vertically into onion along its width in ¼-inch increments, again stopping short of root. This will create thin, finger-like strips, held together by root. 4. Cut across strips in ¼-inch increments up to root. Note: To make smaller or larger mince, simply change size of increments.

4.

Ciseler (finely minced) onions are a building block for many recipes, from stews to ceviche to a taco topping. Next time you serve raw, minced onions with bratwursts, in chili, or as part of a salad, rinse them. Simply run under cold water 1 minute in a colander after mincing. The water rinses away some of the heat of the onion and mellows the flavor. Fresh-cut onions are best served the same day.

PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

1. Halve onion lengthwise from stem to root. Remove stem and peel onion, leaving root intact. (The root will help hold together onion and act as a handle, limiting waste and increasing safety.) 2. With onion flat on cutting board, cut horizontally, stopping just short of root. Repeat at regular intervals for a total of two to three cuts, depending on onion size.


kitchen skills

Grilled Onion Rouelle (Rounds)

Rouelle (Rounds)

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Use rouelle onions for onion rings, pickles, or grilling. While not used as often as ciseler or emincer, rouelle onions showcase the shape of the onion and offer more structure to support them on the grill or battered and fried. 1. Remove stem and peel onion, leaving root intact. 2. Make cuts at regular intervals, roughly ½ inch, working from stem to root. (These cuts can be tricky as the onion is less stable while resting on its rounded edge.) 3. For final cuts, hold root for greater security and safety.

1.

2.

Emincer (Thinly Sliced) 1. Halve onion lengthwise. Remove stem and root, then peel onion. 2. With onion flat on cutting board, make thin slices lengthwise through onion from stem to root. Continue cutting at roughly ¼-inch intervals, keeping slices the same width.

2.

1 onion, peeled and with stem removed 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar pinch salt 3 teaspoons olive oil black pepper 1. Cut onion into rounds, keeping rounds intact and rings together (otherwise they will be difficult to cook and may fall between grill grates). 2. In a small bowl, mix salt into vinegar. Add oil to finish vinaigrette. 3. Arrange onion on a plate and brush with vinaigrette. Finish with a grind of black pepper. 4. Cook onion on a hot grill. For nice grill marks, rotate onion a quarter turn after roughly 1 minute (depending on heat of grill). After 1 more minute, carefully flip and grill other side 1 minute. Make a final quarter turn and cook 1 more minute, for a total cook time of 4 minutes. Serve hot off the grill, drizzled with any remaining vinaigrette.

Pickled Onions MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

These quick-pickled onions are great with everything from grilled meats to black-bean quesadillas. Or simply lay them out on a pickle tray to enjoy. ½ cup red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons sugar 4 to 5 black peppercorns pinch salt 1 sweet or red onion, emincer 1. Combine vinegar, sugar, peppercorns, and salt in a medium pot. Over medium heat, bring to a boil, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until sugar and salt dissolve. 2. Put onion in a large bowl and pour over hot mixture. Toss until onion is fully coated. Once cooled, transfer onion with liquid to a container and refrigerate until ready to serve. Pickled onions will last 1 week in the refrigerator. ■

NUTRITION

1.

Give onion rounds a brief dip in a vinaigrette marinade before carefully grilling for a great side dish.

24 real food spring 2013

GRILLED ONION ROUELLE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 37 (24 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 30mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

PICKLED ONIONS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 20 (0 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 11mg; CARB 5g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g


® Registered Trademark and TM Trademark of Kimberly Clark Worldwide, Inc. © 2006 KCWW

DON ’ T F E A R THE M E AT BAL L . Soft and strong like cloth. Viva towels, Soak Up Life. ®

®


Whole-Meal

Salads These sumptuous and satisfying salads are the perfect answer to a weeknight meal or the main course of a casual dinner party. They can be deliciously unpredictable, but most follow a rough formula: Generally they are multilayered compositions that start with a grain or pasta base, get topped with a diverse selection of vegetables or fruits, and are crowned with a protein. The variety of these whole-meal salads makes them appealing to meat eaters and vegetarians alike.

by Nina Simonds

Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

26 real food spring 2013


Salmon Salad Niรงoise (recipe page 28)

Dress it up Not a fan of salmon? Try topping the salad with 10 to 12 drained anchovy fillets, packed in oil, or 1 tablespoon drained capers.

spring 2013 real food 27


Salmon Salad Niçoise Makes 6 Servings

I love this modified version of a salad niçoise that employs fresh, seared salmon fillets—it’s always a hit, and the salmon’s omega-3 fats up the health ante. Similarly, I am not a stickler for the traditional recipe and use whatever vegetables are in season. I also like to make a generous amount, preparing enough for a main meal plus leftovers for the next day. Garlic Vinaigrette 4 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly smashed 1¼ teaspoons Dijon mustard ¹⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar 1¼ cups olive oil 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Salad 1½ pounds 1-inch-thick salmon fillets with skin, cut into 4 to 5 pieces ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1½ pounds green beans 1 pound baby new potatoes, such as Yukon gold or fingerling 2 teaspoons olive oil 4 large eggs, hard-boiled, peeled, and cut into sixths 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes ½ cup pitted black olives 1. For the garlic vinaigrette: Drop garlic down feed tube of a food processor fitted with a steel blade with motor running to finely mince. Remove lid and add mustard and vinegar. Pulse to blend. Slowly pour oil down feed tube in a thin stream with motor running. Dressing should become thick and creamy. Add salt and pepper to taste. 2. For the salad: Season salmon with salt and pepper. Let sit. 3. Bring 1½ quarts water to a boil. Add beans and cook over medium heat 5 to 6 minutes, until crisp-tender. Scoop out with a handled strainer and refresh in cold water. Drain thoroughly, put in a bowl, and drizzle over some dressing, tossing lightly to coat. 4. Add potatoes to water and bring to a boil. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, until tender (test by piercing with a knife). Drain, refresh in cold water, and halve or quarter any large potatoes. Place in a bowl and drizzle over some dressing while potatoes are still warm, tossing lightly to coat. 5. Heat oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot, almost smoking. Arrange salmon in pan, skin side down. Partially cover and sear 5 to 6 minutes, until well-browned. Flip and cook 5 to 6 minutes, until fish flakes in middle when prodded with a knife. Remove skin. 6. To assemble salad, arrange potatoes in a large serving bowl. Arrange beans over potatoes, allowing some potatoes to show. Arrange eggs around beans. Arrange salmon, skin side down, on top of beans. Sprinkle tomatoes and olives on top, and drizzle with a little dressing. Serve with crusty bread and remaining vinaigrette on the side.

28 real food spring 2013

Wilted Spinach and Scallop Salad with Toasted Sesame Seeds over Quinoa Makes 4 Servings

Wilted spinach salads are usually made with a hot bacon dressing, but this Asian-inspired version has a light sweet-and-sour sauce made with low-sodium soy sauce, rice vinegar, and sugar, which is a low-calorie but no less flavorful alternative.This salad is visually appealing with its golden, fried scallops, roasted red peppers, and spinach with a dusting of sesame seeds. The bed of toasted quinoa transforms it into a filling, satisfying meal. Dressing ½ cup low-sodium soy sauce 5 tablespoons clear rice vinegar 2½ tablespoons sugar Salad 1 pound large sea scallops, muscles removed, rinsed, and cleaned 2 tablespoons rice wine, sake, or dry white wine 2 teaspoons minced ginger 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1 cup quinoa 3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 3 roasted red peppers, blotted dry and cut into ¼-inch dice 1 pound baby spinach 1. Mix all dressing ingredients in a small bowl. Holding a knife parallel to cutting board, halve scallops horizontally. Place in a bowl, add rice wine and ginger, toss lightly, and let sit. 2. Heat ½ tablespoon olive oil and toasted sesame oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat about 20 seconds, until hot. Add quinoa and sauté over medium heat 5 to 7 minutes, until golden brown and toasted. Add 1½ cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook 15 minutes, until liquid is absorbed and quinoa is tender. Remove from heat, add 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, and fluff with a fork. Cover to keep warm. 3. Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and heat until very hot, almost smoking. Drain scallops and add to pan, cooking over high heat 3 minutes on each side, until lightly golden and cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain. Rinse and dry pan. 4. Reheat pan until very hot, add remaining ½ tablespoon olive oil, and heat about 20 seconds, until very hot. Add peppers and stir-fry over high heat 30 seconds. Add dressing and stir-fry until just under a boil. Reduce heat to low and add spinach, tossing lightly and quickly to coat and wilt slightly. 5. Spoon quinoa into a large, shallow serving bowl, shaping a slight indentation in center for spinach and scallops. Spoon over spinach and distribute scallops in an even layer over spinach. Sprinkle remaining sesame seeds over top. Serve immediately.


Wilted Spinach and Scallop Salad with Toasted Sesame Seeds over Quinoa

Dress it up Swap in shrimp or fresh crabmeat for the scallops. To make the salad more substantial, garnish with wedges of 2 hard-boiled eggs or add 1 cup toasted croutons. You can also eliminate the quinoa and instead serve the salad with crusty French bread or rolls.

spring 2013 real food 29


Curry Chicken and Mango Salad with Couscous

Saucy Garlic-Roasted Pork with Broccoli Slaw


Saucy Garlic-Roasted Pork with Broccoli Slaw

Curry Chicken and Mango Salad with Couscous

Makes 6 to 8 Servings

Makes 6 Servings

There are few side vegetables that complement the flavor of grilled meat better than a hot and sour slaw. Fortunately, packaged broccoli slaw with shredded broccoli, carrots, and cabbage is available. Using a packaged slaw cuts the preparation time dramatically, plus, unlike cabbage, the broccoli remains crisp-tender even after cooking.

Everyday chicken salad can be turned into a sumptuous and tantalizing meal-in-one dish by adding garnishes such as grapes and mangoes, and dressing the salad in a vibrant curry-ginger yogurt sauce. Serve it on a bed of toasted couscous to round out the meal.

Sauce 1¼ cups hoisin sauce 5 tablespoons soy sauce 3 tablespoons rice wine, sake, or dry white wine 2½ tablespoons chopped garlic 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, chopped 1¾ pounds pork tenderloin, trimmed of fat and gristle 1 9-ounce bag broccoli slaw (about 3½ cups) 1½ cups carrots, grated or shredded ½ pound fresh angel-hair vermicelli or spaghetti 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a roasting pan with foil. 2. For the sauce: Mix all ingredients with ¾ cup water in a small bowl. 3. Put tenderloin on a pie plate or quiche pan covered with foil. Spread ¹⁄3 of sauce over pork so surface is covered. Roast 45 to 50 minutes, until internal temperature reaches 150°F. Remove and let cool. Pour remaining sauce into a saucepan and set aside. 4. Bring 3 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Add slaw and carrots, and cook 1½ minutes. Using a handled strainer, remove vegetables, refresh in cold water, remove, and drain. Reheat water until boiling. Add noodles and cook until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold, running water. Drain again and, using kitchen shears, cut into 6-inch lengths. Toss noodles in toasted sesame oil. 5. Bring remaining sauce to a boil. Reduce heat to low and keep warm. 6. Cut cooled pork across the grain into thin slices. Arrange noodles in a large, shallow serving bowl, leaving a small indentation in middle for meat. Arrange carrots and slaw atop noodles. Arrange meat in center and drizzle some warm sauce over mixture. Serve remaining sauce on the side. To serve, let each diner portion some noodles onto their plate with tongs, adding shredded vegetables, and topping with hoisin sauce.

cook's note To prepare the pork loin using a gas or charcoal grill, grill over medium-high heat about 7 to 8 minutes on each side for medium-cooked and 8 to10 for well cooked, then turn off heat, cover, and let sit on grill 5 minutes, until internal temperature reaches 145°F to 150°F.

Salad 3 slices fresh ginger about the size of a quarter, smashed lightly with flat side of a knife 3 tablespoons rice wine or sake 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1¼ pounds), fat removed 2 teaspoons olive oil 1 teaspoon ground cumin (optional) ½ teaspoon dried red chili flakes (optional) 1 teaspoon salt 1½ cups whole-wheat or plain couscous 4 stalks celery, trimmed and cut into ½-inch dice ¾ pound red seedless grapes 1 large ripe mango (about 1¼ pounds), peeled, pitted, and cut into ¼-inch dice ½ cup minced scallion greens 1 head romaine lettuce, with outer leaves removed 1½ tablespoons chopped fresh mint or cilantro Dressing 2 teaspoons high-quality curry powder, such as Madras 1 2-inch piece fresh ginger (about 2 tablespoons), peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces 3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled 2 cups plain, low-fat Greek yogurt 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (about ½ lemon) 1. For the salad: Bring 1 quart water, ginger, and rice wine to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add chicken, partially cover, and return to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered 12 minutes, until chicken is cooked. Remove chicken and let cool, reserving broth for couscous and dressing. 2. To prepare couscous, heat oil in a medium saucepan about 20 seconds, until very hot. Add cumin and chili flakes, and sauté over medium-high heat about 15 seconds, until fragrant. Add 1½ cups reserved chicken broth and salt, cover, and heat until boiling. Add couscous, stir, and remove from heat. Let sit 5 minutes, then stir with a fork to separate grains. Cover and set aside. 3. While couscous is cooking, prepare dressing: Toast curry powder in a dry frying pan 3 to 4 minutes, stirring over medium-high heat, until fragrant. Drop ginger and garlic down feed tube of a food processor fitted with a steel blade with motor running. Pulse until finely chopped. Add curry powder, yogurt, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and ½ cup reserved chicken broth. Process until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste. (continued on page 32)

spring 2013 real food 31


(continued from page 31)

4. Slice chicken or cut into ½-inch dice and place in a bowl. Add celery, grapes, mango, and scallions, adding enough dressing to coat. Mix lightly to coat evenly. Or, serve on side. 5. Trim stem end from lettuce leaves and julienne. Spoon couscous into a large, shallow serving bowl, shaping a small hole in center for chicken. Sprinkle lettuce around edge. Spoon curry chicken salad in center over lettuce and sprinkle chopped herb on top. Serve at room temperature or chilled with remaining dressing on the side. Editor's note: If you prefer to pan-sear chicken (as shown on page 30) add ginger at that time and rice wine or sake toward end of cooking. Use store-bought chicken broth or water to prepare couscous per package instructions.

Shrimp, Avocado, and Assorted Greens Over Black Beans with Spicy Salsa makeS 6 ServiNgS

Most people think of me as an expert in Asian cooking, but for family meals, I love to mix it up and make this easy, Mexican-influenced main-dish salad. It’s also extremely versatile: Substitute grilled or rotisserie chicken, pork chops, or flank steak for the shrimp, and you have a totally transformed meal. Salad 1 pound medium raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, and rinsed 4 slices fresh ginger about the size of a quarter, unpeeled and smashed lightly with flat side of a knife 2 tablespoons rice wine, sake, or dry white wine ½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1 15-ounce can black or pinto beans, drained and rinsed 12 6-inch flour tortillas 1 5-ounce bag assorted salad greens 3 cups frozen sweet corn, defrosted 2 ripe but firm avocados, peeled, pitted, and cut into ¼-inch cubes

NUTRITION

Spicy Salsa 1½ jalapeños, trimmed and seeded 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 cup minced scallion greens

SALMON SALAD NIÇOISE: per ServiNg: calorieS 751 (523 from fat); FaT 59g (sat. 9g); chol 179mg; Sodium 810mg; carB 28g; FiBer 6g; proTeiN 29g

32 real food spring 2013

SPINACH & SCALLOP SALAD OVER QUINOA: per ServiNg: calorieS 468 (169 from fat); FaT 19g (sat. 3g); chol 23mg; Sodium 1539mg; carB 52g; FiBer 8g; proTeiN 25g

1 pound (about 3 medium) vine-ripened tomatoes, stemmed and cut into sixths 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 1 lemon) ½ cup fresh cilantro 1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste 1. Using a sharp knife, halve shrimp lengthwise along the back, or leave whole if preferred. Place in a bowl, add ginger, rice wine, and sesame oil, and toss lightly. 2. For the spicy salsa: Drop jalapeños and garlic down feed tube of a food processor fitted with a steel blade with motor running, and chop finely. Add scallions and pulse to mix. Add tomatoes and pulse until coarsely chopped. Stir in lemon juice, cilantro, and salt. Pour into a serving bowl and let stand 5 to 10 minutes at room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to serve. 3. Bring 2 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Add black beans and cook 15 seconds, pour into a colander, and drain. 4. Using same pot, bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Add shrimp and marinade, and cook 2½ to 3 minutes, until cooked through. (If you prefer to sauté shrimp, then warm black beans in small saucepan.) 5. Heat wrapped flour tortillas in microwave on high 1½ minutes, until hot. 6. While tortillas are heating, arrange greens in a large, shallow serving bowl. Sprinkle corn, beans, and avocado over greens. Place shrimp in a mound in center. Let guests serve themselves by portioning some shrimp, corn, beans, avocado, and lettuce into a tortilla and spooning some salsa on top. ■

cook's note As an alternative, serve a charred tomato dressing in place of the salsa. Cut 1 pound (about 3 medium) vine-ripened tomatoes into 1-inch slices and brush with olive oil. Broil 10 minutes each side. Drop 3 cloves garlic down feed tube of a food processor with motor running. Add tomatoes and 2 teaspoons toasted ground cumin, and purée. With motor running, add ¹⁄3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice and ½ cup olive oil in a thin, steady stream. Add 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, and ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro. Mix well and pour into a bowl to be served with salad.

GARLIC-ROASTED PORK W. BROCCOLI SLAW: p e r S e rv i N g : c a l o r i e S 391 (64 from fat); FaT 7g (sat. 2g); chol 46mg; Sodium 1011mg; carB 52g; FiBer 5g; proTeiN 29g

CURRY CHICKEN & MANGO SALAD W. COUSCOUS: p e r S e rv i N g : c a l o r i e S 469 (69 from fat); FaT 8g (sat. 2g); chol 65mg; Sodium 908mg; carB 62g; FiBer 9g; proTeiN 38g

SHRIMP, AVOCADO, GREENS & BLACK BEANS W. SALSA: per ServiNg: calorieS 444 (112 from fat); FaT 13g (sat. 2g); chol 77mg; Sodium 1259mg; carB 65g; FiBer 13g; proTeiN 21g


Shrimp, Avocado, and Assorted Greens Over Black Beans with Spicy Salsa

spring 2013 real food 33


Effortless Appetizers By planning ahead and dividing the work to create these irresistible appetizers, playing host is a piece of cake.

T

he key to any hors d’oeuvre, whether for a wedding or an informal get-together, is cramming a ton of flavor into a small bite. I always strive for combinations of spicy, crunchy, salty, creamy, or sweet for a complex, dynamic taste. These hors d’oeuvres are divided into three categories: Simple Assembly of store-bought ingredients, Day-Ahead Prep with some last details to tend to day of, and At the Last Minute to be made just before guests arrive. Party planning has never been so much fun. >

BY SERENA BASS

34 real food spring 2013


Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics


1

sim le assembly d

Little Toasts with Manchego and Quince Paste 1

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Sweet meets savory in these tasty bites. 1 3 8 3

package Divina square toasts to 4 tablespoons salted butter ounces Manchego cheese ounces quince paste freshly ground black pepper

1. Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. 2. Arrange 24 toasts on a sheet pan and bake 8 minutes. Remove from oven and leave on pan to cool. 3. Shave a slice of butter and lay squarely on a cooled toast. 4. Slice Manchego to cover butter. Slightly warm quince paste in microwave and spoon Ÿ teaspoon on top of cheese. Finish with a grind of black pepper and serve immediately.

2 Mission Figs with

Blue Cheese and Marcona Almonds MAKES 12 SERVINGS

This recipe takes almost longer to say than to make! Look for figs in a sealed bag and ensure they are soft, not dried out. 12 dried black mission figs, stems removed 4 ounces Gorgonzola cheese 12 Marcona almonds 1. Halve figs vertically. Use your thumb to create an indentation in each fig half. 2. Fill fig with a small scoop Gorgonzola

and, if serving immediately, push an almond into cheese. If serving next day, refrigerate without almond, bring to room temperature 1 hour, and add almond just before serving.

3 Prosciutto-

Wrapped Pear and Melon MAKES 12 SERVINGS

These appetizers disappear as soon as they are served! 2 ripe Anjou pears, peeled, quartered, and cored 12 pieces ripe honeydew or cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 12 slices prosciutto di palma, halved across middle freshly ground black pepper 1. Cut stem end off each quarter of pear. Create three pieces by cutting off section closest to stem end then halving remaining section. 2. Toss pear and melon pieces with lemon juice and set aside 10 minutes; this adds a lovely flavor and prevents pears from browning. 3. Pat fruit dry with a paper towel then wrap each piece with prosciutto. 4. Arrange with neat side up in a single layer in a covered container. Refrigerate 30 to 60 minutes. 5. Place fruit on a serving tray, add a grind of black pepper, and stick a 6-inch bamboo skewer into each piece of fruit to serve. Note: Place a small glass or half a lemon on the table for used skewers (see "Dos of Hosting" sidebar on next page).


3 The DOs of HOSTING DO: ✔ Think about the time of your party: 5–7 p.m. typically indicates it isn’t dinner. Make it 6–8 p.m., and people expect your food to be their evening meal.

✔ Use rimmed trays and platters rather than flat or scooped plates to prevent food from sliding off.

✔ Use straight-sided bowls for dips so guests can easily scoop with bread or a vegetable.

✔ Put out containers for discarded olive pits and grape stems. If using skewers, remove end of a lemon then cut diagonally across middle. This creates a sturdy base and a sloped face, perfect for used skewers. Stick a skewer in lemon half so guests get the idea.

✔ Leave a stack of cocktail napkins next to each tray of hors d’oeuvres.

✔ If you know a certain

2

appetizer can be sticky, place a finger bowl next to it. Simply fill a pretty bowl with water and garnish with a floating flower.

spring 2013 real food 37


The DON'Ts of HOSTING DON'T: ✖ Try to do everything yourself. I like to requisition four friends and ask them each to help for a 30-minute period, either working in the kitchen or clearing used glasses and napkins.

✖ Have more than one hot hors d’oeuvre— otherwise you’ll get stuck in the kitchen. ✖ Put a cheese platter on a low table. It is hard for guests to access, results in necklaces in the Brie, and can quickly become a buffet for the family dog. (I once found a sizable chunk of Parmesan buried in my Westie’s dog bed.)

✖ Make anything that will crumble, shatter, ooze, or dribble into a two-biter. Keep hors d’oeuvres small to avoid accidents. ✖ Skimp on time for yourself before the party. Plan so you have time to get ready, review the guest list, and put the finishing touches on everything without getting into a panic.

38 real food spring 2013


day-ahead re

d d

Crudites with Chipotle Mayonnaise 1

OFFER 4 TO 6 PIECES PER PERSON.

Asparagus: Trim to 4 inches and simmer in salted water until al dente. Sugar snap peas: Simmer in salted water no longer than 3 minutes.

Crudités sound a bit ordinary, but if you divide them by color and serve with a knee-buckling, lightning-fast chipotle mayonnaise, they will quickly become the star of the show. Plunge all cooked, strained vegetables immediately in ice water to stop the cooking and seal the color. Pat dry, wrap in paper towel, and store in a plastic bag until serving.

WHITE Cauliflower: Cut into florets and blanch 40 seconds in boiling salted water. Endive leaves: Remove bases and separate leaves. Soak in ice water 10 minutes, dry, and refrigerate. Fingerling potatoes: Halve lengthwise and simmer in salted water until tender.

RED Peppers: Cut into 1/3 -inch spears. Tomatoes: Choose firm grape tomatoes. Beets: Choose 10 small ones, as close in size as possible. Put in a cake tin with ¼ cup water, cover tightly with foil, and bake 1 hour at 325°F. Wearing gloves, peel cooled beets under running water. Halve or quarter beets depending on size. Red radishes: Trim stalks to ½ inch.

Chipotle Mayonnaise

GREEN Green beans: Trim stalk ends then cook until al dente. Broccoli: Cut into florets and cook until al dente. Kirby cucumbers: Quarter lengthwise (or cut into thinner strips if desired).

MAKES 1½ CUPS

1 1 1 1 ½ ½ ½

extra-large egg tablespoon Dijon mustard tablespoon aged sherry vinegar large clove garlic, roughly chopped teaspoon ground chipotle, or to taste teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cups vegetable oil

1. Combine all ingredients except oil in a food processor and blend 15 seconds. 2. With motor running, gradually pour in oil. Transfer to a covered container and store in refrigerator up to 1 week.

spring 2013 real food 39


PARTY by NUMBER What should you take into consideration when trying to assess how many hors d’oeuvres to make?

➊ The age of the guests. In my experience, younger people tend to eat more. ➋ The time of the party: 5–6 p.m.: Plan for 4 appetizers per person. Presumably guests will be enjoying dinner somewhere else and won’t want to fill up. 5–7 p.m.: Assume 6 to 8 hors d’oeuvres per person. 5–8 p.m.: Because this span covers dinnertime for many, allow 8 to 12 appetizers per person. And don’t forget a sweet option toward the end of the evening. 6–9 p.m.: This definitely covers dinnertime, so not only expect 8 to 12 hors d’oeuvres per person but also have some options that are a bit more filling, such as a soup shot.

➌ If appetizers will be passed. Plan for more food if this is the case. Guests will almost always take something if it is offered but often won’t break away from a conversation to find the plate of stuffed figs.

40 real food spring 2013

3


day-ahead re

d d

Chicken and Tarragon Rolled in Toasted Almonds

3

MAKES 36 PIECES

This is delicious served with Grilled Crostini or atop a freshly sliced baguette.

2

2

This hors d’oeuvre is always a hit! Note that Greek yogurt is too soft for this; it is best to drain plain, fat-free yogurt. Also, it’s much easier to coat the chicken with almonds when it is cold. 1 cup flaked almonds 8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 3 to 4 pieces 2 to 3 cups chicken stock ½ cup plain, fat-free yogurt, drained for 24 hours to yield 6 tablespoons 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 2 teaspoons fresh tarragon, chopped 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Spread almonds evenly onto an ungreased sheet pan. Toast 12 to 15 minutes, until golden, stirring regularly to prevent burning. Once cool, transfer to a covered container. 2. Place chicken in a small, nonstick saucepan. Cover with chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cook 8 minutes, until just cooked through. Remove from heat and let chicken cool in stock. 3. Remove chicken from stock, pat dry, and finely mince. 4. In a bowl, mix chicken with yogurt, lemon zest, tarragon, salt, and pepper. Adjust seasoning to taste. Using a teaspoon, drop mixture onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Cover and refrigerate overnight. 5. Up to two hours before serving, crush almonds and place in a shallow bowl. Roll each teaspoonful of chicken into a round and coat with almonds. Press down very slightly to create a flat base so chicken rounds won’t roll around on the tray. Refrigerate until serving.

Black Olive Tapenade MAKES 1 CUP

1 1 2 1 2

cup pitted kalamata olives teaspoon grated lemon zest teaspoons fresh garlic, minced tablespoon extra virgin olive oil tablespoons minced Italian parsley pinch hot pepper flakes

1. Combine all ingredients in bowl of a food processor and pulse to a rough paste. Adjust seasoning to taste. 2. Transfer to a covered container and refrigerate. Stir and bring to room temperature before serving. Tip: Place a teaspoon in the serving bowl for spreading tapenade on grilled crostini—it’s much easier than a knife.

Grilled Crostini

MAKES 12 SERVINGS OF 2 SLICES

Serve a pile of crostini grilled to perfection with the Black Olive Tapenade. Note: These need to be made the day of the event. ½ cup olive oil 2 cloves crushed garlic, or to taste 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 loaf French bread, cut in 24 (1/3 -inch) slices 3 tablespoons Italian parsley, minced (optional) 1. In a small bowl, mix oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Lightly brush mixture onto both sides of bread slices. 2. Up to an hour before serving, grill or broil crostini 15 to 20 seconds until nicely marked on each side. Scatter parsley over bread before serving.


at the last minute Steamed Shrimp with Bloody Mary Cocktail Sauce 1

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

You can cook the shrimp very plainly in boiling salted water about 3 minutes and let the sauce do all the work. Or you can create a spicy broth to cook the shrimp in to get more bang for your buck. Bloody Mary Cocktail Sauce ¾ cup ketchup ½ cup Sriracha Chili Sauce 2 tablespoons white horseradish, slightly drained, or to taste 2 tablespoons vodka ½ teaspoon ground chipotle, or to taste 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Spicy Broth 2 cups white wine 1 tablespoon yellow mustard seeds 4 bay leaves 8 strips lemon zest ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons cracked black pepper 1 tablespoon salt 1½ pounds extra-large shrimp, tail-on, peeled, and deveined 1. For cocktail sauce: Mix together all ingredients and refrigerate up to 1 week. Note: Each day sauce is stored, its punch will diminish slightly, so add more horseradish, chipotle, or lemon juice to taste before serving. 2. For broth: Combine all ingredients with 10 cups water. Bring to a boil and simmer 20 minutes. Increase heat to bring to a boil, add shrimp, and cook 3 minutes, until pink in color. 3. Strain shrimp and tip out onto a sheet pan in an even layer to cool quickly. Discard bay leaves and lemon zest. 4. When cool, transfer shrimp to a bowl, shaking off mustard seeds. Refrigerate until serving. 42 real food spring 2013

3

2


Arepas (Corn Fritters) 2

MAKES 50 SMALL AREPAS

1

These are great for a casual gathering with friends—who will probably try to grab them right off the skillet! Or, if you have someone who can help make them then you can pass them around. The arepas are best served immediately. 2 ½ 2 1 ¼ 1½ 1 ½

cups fresh sweet corn cup whole milk extra-large eggs cup yellow cornmeal cup flour tablespoons baking powder teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon cayenne corn oil for frying 4 ounces Cheddar cheese cut into thin ¾-inch squares Sriracha Chili Sauce

NUTRITION

1. Combine 1 cup corn and milk in bowl of a food processor and blend 5 seconds. Whisk together with eggs and remaining 1 cup corn. 2. Sift together dry ingredients and fold into corn mixture. 3. In a heavy skillet, heat ¼ inch of corn oil to medium hot. Fry batter using 1 tablespoon per fritter and do not crowd the pan. Cook the corn cakes until they are crisp and brown underneath, about 2 to 3 minutes, then flip and cook 1 to 2 minutes on the other side. After flipping fritters, lay a small slice cheese on top to melt. 4. Remove fritters with a metal spatula onto a baking rack (a paper towel

LITTLE TOASTS W. MANCHEGO & QUINCE PASTE: P E R S E RV I N G : C A L O R I E S 138 (76 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 5g); CHOL 26mg; SODIUM 249mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 6g MISSION FIGS W. BLUE CHEESE & MARCONA ALMONDS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 64 (32 from fat); FAT 4g (sat.

2g); CHOL 7mg; SODIUM 133mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g PROSCIUTTO-WRAPPED PEAR & MELON: PER SERVING: CALORIES 43 (11 from fat); FAT 1g (sat. 0g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 78mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g

CHIPOTLE MAYONNAISE (1 TBSP): PER SERVING: CALORIES 125 (123 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 9mg; SODIUM 68mg; CARB 0g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g CHICKEN & TARRAGON: PER SERVING: CALORIES 25 (13 from fat); FAT 1g (sat. 0g); CHOL 4mg; SODIUM 74mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 2g

will make them soggy). Serve topped with Sriracha. Note: Be cautious when frying batter as corn may pop.

3 Tomato Tartlets

with Mozzarella and Basil MAKES 15 SERVINGS

18 small grape tomatoes, halved vertically 2 teaspoons olive oil ¼ teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 8 small fresh basil leaves, torn in half across the leaf 4 ounces small fresh mozzarella balls, cut into 24 ¾-inchby-1/3 -inch pieces (you’ll have extra) 1 package phyllo shells, baked per package instructions 2 to 3 teaspoons aged sherry vinegar 1. Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F. 2. In a bowl, toss tomatoes, oil, salt, and pepper. Tip onto a small, shallow, non-reactive baking dish and bake 30 minutes, until very slightly caramelized at edges. Remove from dish and let cool. 3. Place a torn basil leaf in phyllo shell, followed by a piece of mozzarella and two tomato halves. 4. Pour sherry vinegar into a cup. Dip a teaspoon in vinegar and just touch it to tomatoes; that little dot makes a huge difference! Serve immediately. ■

BLACK OLIVE TAPENADE: P E R S E RV I N G : C A L O R I E S 19 (16 from fat); FAT 2g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 68mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

AREPAS (CORN FRITTERS) : PER ONE: CALORIES 47 (24 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 1g); CHOL 11mg; SODIUM 109mg; CARB 4g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

SHRIMP W. BLOODY MARY COCKTAIL SAUCE: P E R S E RV I N G : C A L O R I E S 82 (7 from fat); FAT 1g (sat. 0g); CHOL 87mg; SODIUM 792mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 10g

TOMATO TARTLETS W. MOZZARELLA & BASIL: P E R S E RV I N G : C A L O R I E S 41 (24 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 1g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 79mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 2g


Gluten-Free chocolate cupcakes with creamy ganache & Chocolate chip cookies (recipes page 50)

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Gourmand Gluten-Free

Delicious dishes sans gluten have never been easier. Times have changed when it comes to gluten-free awareness. In the past several years, avoiding gluten— a protein found in wheat, barley, rye, and triticale—has gone from something you’d hardly ever hear about to a mainstream dinner topic.

Whether because of a health concern, such as celiac disease, some sensitivity to gluten, or a personal preference, giving up gluten is easier than ever. Gluten-free products have vastly improved in recent years, and with the right ingredients, creating mouthwatering meals sans gluten is a cinch. Take the following recipes for a test drive. Gluten-free foodies will appreciate them while others will never know the difference with delectable dishes like these.

Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

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Going Gluten Free A serious condition called celiac disease or celiac sprue has always afflicted a small percentage of the population, who often struggled with health problems for years before being diagnosed. Awareness is helping more of those people get help. Beyond celiac, gluten is one of the top allergens, and many people have reactions to eating it. There is also a growing number of people who consider themselves gluten intolerant on some level and may feel better removing it from their diet. (More information is available through the Celiac Disease Foundation, celiac.org). Luckily, gluten-free products have vastly improved in recent years, and new ones are introduced every day.

Gluten-Free Flours Most gluten-free baking and cooking is done using a combination of flours. Bean, nut, and gluten-free grain flours and starches can be combined to create a good mix. The blend is usually made from two or three types, such as a grain flour, a bean flour, and a starch flour. Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour is a great option, or you can make your own by combining a bean, nut, and grain flour with starch flour and experimenting with a balance: • Bean: Garbanzo and garb-fava, pea, and soy flours • Nut: Almond, coconut, and hazelnut flours • Grain: White and brown rice, sorghum, millet, teff, amaranth, quinoa, and buckwheat flours • Starch: Tapioca, arrowroot, cornstarch, and potato starch

Gums and Binders Without gluten, which acts to bind dough and provide structure, leavened breads can’t form the open texture we expect and enjoy. That’s why we use gums and binders. The following are just a few of the gums and binders that make gluten-free baking easy. • Xanthan gum is made by a special bacteria that, when mixed with water, becomes a gum. It’s an indigestible carbohydrate, and you use such a tiny amount of it that it has little nutritional effect. • Guar gum is extracted from a tropical bean through a simple milling and screening process. It’s a form of starch that forms a thick gum when mixed with water. It can be substituted for xanthan gum. • Flax seeds, which are very nutritious, add essential fats and cholesterol-lowering fiber to foods. They can be ground and added to gluten-free baked goods. And, when mixed with water, ground flax seeds also can be used as an egg replacement.

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Gluten-Free Banana Nut Bread Makes 8 servings

Don’t tell anyone that this banana bread is gluten-free, and I promise you, nobody will figure it out. This is great just out of the oven or toasted the next day, slathered with peanut butter. cooking spray 2 cups Bob’s Red Mill GlutenFree All-Purpose Baking Flour ½ teaspoon xanthan gum 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 2 large bananas, ripened ½ cup milk ¼ cup canola oil or butter 1 cup brown sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla ½ cup chopped pecans 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil or spray a standard loaf pan. 2. In a large bowl, combine flour, xanthan gum, baking powder, and salt. In a food processor, purée bananas. Add milk, oil, brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla, and process until smooth and wellmixed. Combine with dry ingredients and beat with a whisk or wooden spoon until a smooth batter forms. Scrape into prepared pan and sprinkle with pecans. Use a spatula to swirl them in and smooth top of batter. 3. Bake about 1 hour, until top is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan on a rack. Tightly wrapped bread can be stored in refrigerator up to 1 week.


Gluten-free banana nut bread

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Gluten-Free Pizza

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Gluten-Free Focaccia or Pizza Makes 4 servings

This recipe can be made in a 9-inch baking pan to make a square focaccia, which can be easily split to stuff with your favorite sandwich filling. Or you can make it on a 12-inch pizza pan and top with your favorite sauces, vegetables, and cheese. Glutenfree batter is very moist and soft, so no kneading is required—just some vigorous beating to activate the xanthan gum. Note that the pizza crust will be more delicate than a wheat flour crust. ¾ cup warm milk 1 tablespoon ground flax seeds 1 teaspoon sugar 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon apple cider vinegar 1½ teaspoons quick-rise yeast 1½ cups Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour 1½ teaspoons xanthan gum ¾ teaspoon salt cooking spray 1. In bowl of a mixer with a paddle attachment, combine milk, ground flax seeds, sugar, eggs, oil, and vinegar, and mix well. Add yeast, flour, xanthan gum, and salt. Beat 2 minutes. Dough will be sticky. For focaccia: 1. Oil or spray a 9-inch square pan and scrape dough into it. Spread evenly, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise 30 minutes. Sprinkle with olive oil and minced fresh herbs such as rosemary and thyme. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Bake 20 minutes, until focaccia is golden brown. It can be cooled and split for sandwiches or served as is with soups. For pizza: 1. Wrap a 12-inch pizza pan in nonstick foil, then oil the foil. Scrape dough into center of pan and use a dampened spatula to spread evenly out to pan rim (dampening spatula prevents sticking). Let rise 30 minutes. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Pre-bake crust 10 minutes. Spread ½ cup pizza sauce over crust, top with shredded chicken, pepperoni, or your favorite toppings, and finish with 1 cup shredded cheese. Bake 15 minutes until cheese is melted. Serve hot.

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Savory Turkey Meatloaf with Oats Chocolate Chip Cookies Makes 28

These cookies come out crisp with a buttery crunch and melty chocolate chips throughout. One caution: Don’t eat the raw batter as the uncooked garbanzo flour tastes beany and is hard to digest. Once it's baked, however, it is an entirely different story. 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup white sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon gluten-free vanilla 1¼ cups Bob’s Red Mill GlutenFree All-Purpose Baking Flour ¼ teaspoon xanthan gum ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 12-ounce bag chocolate chips 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. In a stand mixer or large bowl, cream butter until light. Beat in sugars until well mixed and fluffy. Add eggs and vanilla, and beat until well mixed. In a medium bowl, combine flour, xanthan gum, salt, and baking soda, and whisk to mix. Stir flour mixture into butter mixture. Once incorporated, beat 1 minute to activate xanthan gum. Stir in chocolate chips. Transfer dough to a bowl and chill 1 hour. 3. Form balls of dough roughly 2 tablespoons in size and place 3 inches apart on baking sheets (6 cookies per pan). Bake both pans of cookies at the same time for 12 minutes, switching pan positions halfway through cook time. When cookies are golden brown, let cool on pans 5 minutes before using a metal spatula to transfer cookies to a cooling rack. Tightly covered cookies will keep up to 1 week.

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Makes 8 servings

Rolled oats contain no gluten but can be contaminated with wheat at the processing facility. That’s why it’s ideal to find rolled oats guaranteed to be processed in a gluten-free facility. cooking spray 2 large eggs 1 cup gluten-free rolled oats, such as Bob’s Red Mill ¾ cup vegetable juice cocktail 2 teaspoons Worcestershire 1 medium onion, chopped 1 teaspoon thyme ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper ½ teaspoon celery salt 1½ pounds ground turkey ½ cup ketchup 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon chili powder 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly oil or spray a large loaf pan. In a large bowl, combine eggs, oats, vegetable juice, Worcestershire, onion, thyme, salt, pepper, and celery salt, and mix well. Add ground turkey and mix well. Transfer to loaf pan and bake 35 minutes. 2. Combine ketchup, Dijon, and chili powder. Spread over meatloaf, then return to oven for 30 minutes, until internal temperature reaches 160°F.

Chocolate Cupcakes with Creamy Ganache Makes 12

These cupcakes are springy and cakey, thanks to well-beaten egg whites.This recipe is a good example of how eggs can take the place of gluten, with delicious results.

¾ cup Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour ¼ cup cocoa ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking soda ¾ cup sugar 4 large eggs, separated ¼ cup canola oil 2 tablespoons milk ¾ cup chocolate chips, melted ½ cup sour cream, at room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line cups of a 12-cup muffin pan with papers. In a large bowl, whisk together dry ingredients. In another bowl, whisk together egg yolks, oil, and milk. Thoroughly blend wet ingredients into dry ingredients. In a large bowl and using an electric beater, beat egg whites to soft peaks, then fold ¼ of whites into batter. When whites are well-combined, add remaining whites and fold in. Scoop ¼ cup batter into each muffin cup. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in center of a cupcake comes out clean. Cool in the pan on racks until cool enough to remove, about 10 minutes. 2. For the ganache: Melt chocolate chips and cool slightly. Scrape into a medium bowl, and add sour cream and vanilla, and whisk to combine. Whisk until thick and spreadable, then carefully spread onto cupcakes. Chill until serving. 


NUTRITION

savory turkey meatloaF with oats

GLUTEN-FREE BANANA NUT BREAD: per servinG: calories 343 (120 from fat); Fat 14g (sat. 2g); chol 47mg; soDium 299mg; carB 52g; FiBer 3g; protein 4g

GLUTEN-FREE FOCACCIA OR PIZZA: per servinG: calories 306 (108 from fat); Fat 12g (sat. 2g); chol 96mg; soDium 498mg; carB 42g; FiBer 4g; protein 8g

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES: p e r s e rv i n G : c a l o r i e s 136 (64 from fat); Fat 7g (sat. 4g); chol 22mg; soDium 72mg; carB 18g; FiBer 1g; protein 1g

SAVORY TURKEY MEATLOAF W. OATS: per servinG: calories 248 (118 from fat); Fat 13g (sat. 3g); chol 112mg; soDium 630mg; carB 14g; FiBer 2g; protein 19g

CHOCOLATE CUPCAKES W. CREAMY GANACHE: per servinG: calories 217 (103 from fat); Fat 12g (sat. 4g); chol 67mg; soDium 133mg; carB 27g; FiBer 1g; protein 4g

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POULTRY in MOTION Rotisserie chicken makes it easy to turn out delicious and quick meals any day of the week. BY MADGE BAIRD


Which came first— the rotisserie chicken or the easy and oh-so-delicious weeknight meal? The chicken, of course, and it offers amazing versatility for home cooks at every level of culinary expertise. For the novice—or the person who simply doesn’t have time tonight—carving a beautifully roasted bird at the table is a satisfying experience. For those who enjoy cooking, the convenience of a rotisserie chicken offers a head start on an endless variety of dishes. The recipes that follow are just a few ideas for turning this key ingredient into luscious dishes that will inspire kudos and raves from everyone at the dinner table. >>

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Roasted Asparagus, Potato, and Chicken Salad on Greens

Chicken and Dumplings

Makes 4 servings

This hearty main dish could become a new family favorite. This scrumptious, thick stew can be served for a weeknight or company supper. Chicken and dumplings is a warming heritage meal from our ancestral past, revitalized here for easy preparation.

Chicken and roasted vegetables make this salad perfect for a light meal served with crusty artisan bread. No time to make the vinaigrette? Your favorite store-bought balsamic vinaigrette should work fine. Another timesaving tip: The asparagus and potatoes can be roasted ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to use. 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 pound asparagus, trimmed and bottom inch of stem peeled 1 pound fingerling or baby new potatoes, quartered salt ground black pepper 4 handfuls baby salad greens 1¼ cups roast chicken breast, shredded 1 red or purple onion, thinly sliced, cut in half, and with rings separated 4 tablespoons crumbled bacon or finely diced ham Herb and Balsamic Vinaigrette ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh herbs, such as basil, tarragon, and mint, chopped ¼ teaspoon sugar 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Pour 1 tablespoon oil on a baking sheet. Roll asparagus in oil and move to one end of pan. Toss potatoes in remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then spread out potatoes on pan for even cooking. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Bake until potatoes are just fork-tender, turning several times. Turn asparagus once while roasting and remove from oven before it blackens. Let vegetables cool. 3. Arrange salads among 4 plates, starting with greens. Divide asparagus, potatoes, chicken, onion, and bacon among plates and layer attractively. 4. For the vinaigrette: Mix all ingredients in a blender or vigorously with a whisk. Spoon over salads and serve.

Makes 6 servings

6 cups chicken broth 1 tablespoon dried onion flakes 1½ cups grated carrot 3 to 4 cups roast chicken, shredded ¾ cup flour, whisked into 1 cup cold water salt ground black pepper Herb Dumplings 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon thyme leaves 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk 2 tablespoons parsley flakes (optional) 1. In a large, wide-bottom, nonstick saucepan over mediumhigh heat, bring broth to a boil. Add onion flakes and carrots, and cook 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add chicken. Before liquid returns to a boil, slowly add flour mixture to thicken broth, stirring constantly. After about 1 minute of stirring, season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently 3 to 4 minutes. 2. For the herb dumplings: In a small bowl, combine dry ingredients using a fork. Add milk and mix just until incorporated and all the flour has been moistened. Using a scoop to create uniform dumplings, spoon batter onto chicken gravy about 2 tablespoons at a time, spreading them out over surface. Sprinkle parsley over dumplings. 3. Cover and let dumplings cook and steam in gravy about 15 minutes (depending on size of dumplings), until cooked through. Every 5 minutes, stir gravy off bottom of pan to prevent sticking. Disturb dumplings as little as possible. Replace lid to continue steaming. 4. Use a fork to gently open a dumpling in center of pan and check for doneness. Continue cooking if needed and check again after 5 minutes. When test dumpling is dry and crumbly in middle, remove pan from heat. 5. Serve on deep plates or in soup bowls, with dumplings on bottom and gravy ladled over top.

Make it a Meal: Easy Accompaniments

1.

A Tri-Color Crunch Salad of shredded red cabbage tossed with thinly sliced carrots and celery dressed lightly in a saucy Catalina is a delicious start to a meal. Bonus: This is a great way to enlist the kids to help with dinner.

54 real food spring 2013

2.

For a hot-vegetable alternative, oven-roasted Brussels sprouts fit the bill. Halve, toss in olive oil and Parmesan, and bake at 425°F about 20 minutes, until beginning to brown on edges and the tip of a paring knife can easily pierce.

3.

A fruity dessert such as chocolate-dipped strawberries or slices of crunchy pear with Nutella will round out the food pyramid and provide a sweet ending to your roast chicken dinner.


chicken and dumplings

ROASTed asparagus, potato, and chicken salad on greens

spring 2013 real food 55


cHicken-vegeTaBle encHilaDas verDe suisse

THE WHOLE ENCHILADA: TIPS FOR A TERRIFIC TORTILLA • These enchiladas can easily be spread over two (or more!) meals. Simply use a foil baking

dish for six of them and freeze tightly covered with foil. • Caramelizing onions—cooking them over medium heat until they turn golden brown— brings out their sweetness. Don’t let them burn. You may find that covering the pan with a lid for a short period and then removing it helps the process. • Assembling the enchiladas on a baking sheet helps contain spills and makes it easy to move them to the baking dish. Set out your tortilla ingredients on the counter in the order you will use them and work in an assembly-line process. • If the filling ingredients don’t happen to come out just even, all is not lost. Nestle a tortilla in a small baking dish and fill it with the remaining ingredients, topping with sauce (or cheese if all sauce has been used). Bake and refrigerate for tomorrow’s microwaveable lunch.

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Chicken-Vegetable Enchiladas Verde Suisse Makes 12 servings

When you’re craving Mexican food, these easily assembled enchiladas will surely satisfy, plus they take just an hour from start to finish. Opt for whole-grain or ancient-grain tortillas. If you like the kind of heat that makes your brow perspire, increase the amount of green taco sauce. oil cooking spray 2 medium onions, sliced in rings and separated 5 carrots, peeled and cut into coins 1¼ pounds cauliflower, cut into small pieces 1¼ pounds broccoli (including peeled stems), cut into small pieces salt 12 8-inch flour or whole-grain tortillas 2 cups roast chicken, shredded 1 cup crumbled Cotija cheese Verde Suisse Sauce 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter ½ cup all-purpose flour 2 cups chicken broth 1 cup half-and-half 1 cup milk (not fat-free) ¾ cup green taco sauce or salsa 8 ounces shredded Mexican blend reduced-fat cheese

1. Spray two 9-by-13-inch baking dishes lightly with oil. 2. Cook onions in a large skillet over medium/medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, about 35 minutes, until dark golden. 3. While onions are cooking, prepare vegetables. Layer carrots, cauliflower, and broccoli in a medium saucepan with enough water to cover carrots. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce to a good simmer and cook over medium-high heat until fork-tender. Drain and set aside. 4. For the verde suisse sauce: Melt butter in a medium saucepan and stir in flour to create a roux. Cook over medium heat, turning and stirring, 4 minutes to cook out flour taste. Gradually whisk in broth to avoid lumps. Whisk in half-and-half followed by milk. Gradually add taco sauce to avoid curdling, stirring constantly. Stir a third of Mexican blend cheese into sauce and incorporate before adding the rest. 5. To assemble enchiladas, lay two tortillas on a baking sheet. Spoon 3 tablespoons sauce in a 2-inch-wide strip across middle of each tortilla. Keep filling about ½ inch away from edges. To each tortilla, add 2 heaping tablespoons chicken, 2 to 3 tablespoons mixed vegetables, and a couple pieces caramelized onion. Fold sides of tortillas and move to a baking dish, overlapping, with seam down. Repeat with remaining tortillas until all ingredients are gone. 6. Ladle remaining cream sauce over both pans, spreading sauce to edges to prevent tortillas from drying out in oven. Spoon 1 tablespoon sauce over each enchilada then sprinkle with Cotija. Bake uncovered in a 400°F oven 15 to 20 minutes, until cheese is tinged with brown.

Making the Most of a Rotisserie Chicken ➤ As tempting as it is to stick a rotisserie chicken in the refrigerator when you get it home, this is the best time to pull it apart and cut it up. The skin peels off the bird and the meat comes off the bone much more easily when warm.

➤ If you have disposable gloves on hand, now is a good time to pull out a pair. If not, clean, bare hands will get the job done. Lemon juice is king when it comes to getting the chicken scent off your hands after cleaning the bird.

➤ If the chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender, the back of a knife is all it takes to lift or scrape the meat from the bone. Shred or dice small pieces and

save bits picked from the wings to use in recipes. The breast meat needs to be pried or cut away from the ribcage and should come off in big pieces.

➤ Purchasing two chickens at a time and freezing some of the meat is a huge time saver. As long as you’re in the small mess of picking the meat from the bone, you might as well do two and have some chicken ready for another easy weeknight meal.

➤ Store cut-up, cooked chicken in 1- or 2-cup containers or freezer bags (or in other specific quantities for favorite recipes).

➤ Rotisserie chickens typically yield 3 to 4 cups shredded or cut-up meat.

➤ A single rotisserie chicken should span two or even three meals for a family of four if used efficiently. Let the chicken be the flavoring and the vegetables or grains provide the bulk.

➤ Store-bought accompaniments can make a weeknight chicken dinner amazingly simple and delicious. Baked beans and potato salad are picnic standbys. Penne pasta tossed with pesto and Parmesan is a filling side. Microwaved sweet potatoes or winter squash are nutritious and amiable companions.

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Leek and Wild Rice Chicken Soup

Eggplant, Marinated Olives, and Chicken Ciabatta with Tangy Sweet-Hot Mayonnaise

Makes 6 servings

Traditional wild rice soup gets a little twist from the delicate but distinctive flavor of leek, along with an addition of chicken.This can be made as a thin soup with luscious broth for fewer calories or as a traditional thickened cream soup. 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons butter 1 leek, white and green parts cleaned and thinly sliced (about ¾ cup) 16 ounces sliced mushrooms salt 4 cups chicken stock pinch garlic powder ¼ teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped (or 1 tablespoon dried) 1 tablespoon fresh italian parsley, chopped (or 2 teaspoons dried) 1 tablespoon chicken bouillon ¾ cup wild rice, cooked per package directions 2 cups roast chicken, dark and light meat, shredded 1 cup half-and-half (optional) ½ cup heavy cream (optional) 3 tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved in ¼ cup water (optional)

NUTRITION

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CHICKEN & DUMPLINGS: per serving: calOries 410 (66 from fat); FaT 7g (sat. 2g); cHOl 64mg; sODiuM 1128mg; carB 51g; FiBer 3g; prOTein 33g

Switch up your sandwich routine with these warm, flavorful chicken ciabattas. The sweet-hot mayonnaise balances the saltiness of the olives in a mouthwatering way. Salty, marinated olives are an acquired taste, so this sandwich might be best suited to teens and adults rather than young children. Ciao Italia! 4 ciabatta rolls 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium eggplant, cut 4 slices salt ground black pepper 1¼ cups roast chicken, torn into strips or pieces 1 cup olive tapenade sweet-Hot Mayonnaise 6 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 teaspoon italian blend dried herbs 1½ teaspoons lemon juice 2 to 3 marinated sweet-hot cherry peppers, finely chopped

1. In a large saucepan, heat oil and butter over medium heat. Add leek and mushrooms, and stir to coat. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Increase heat to medium and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until vegetables begin to soften. Cover saucepan, reduce heat to medium-low, and let vegetables sweat 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms darken and release juices. Pour in stock and 4 cups water. Add garlic powder, pepper, herbs, and bouillon, and stir. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a gentle boil. Add rice and chicken. Stir to heat through. Adjust seasoning to taste, keeping in mind chicken lends flavor and bouillon both flavor and salt. 2. Soup can be served as is for a lower-calorie option. Or for a rich, creamy version, add dairy products and cornstarch slurry. Quickly bring soup back to a low boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly, while liquid thickens. Adjust seasoning to taste. Thick and creamy wild rice soup is elegant enough for company and will look impressive in your best shallow soup bowls.

ROASTED ASPARAGUS, POTATO & CHICKEN SALAD ON GREENS: per serving: calOries 546 (355 from fat); FaT 40g (sat. 6g); cHOl 43mg; sODiuM 417mg; carB 29g; FiBer 5g; prOTein 20g

Makes 4 servings

1. Slice ciabatta rolls in half without cutting clear through. Brush inside of rolls with oil, open flat, and toast in a skillet. Transfer rolls to a baking sheet. 2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush both sides of eggplant slices lightly with oil. Spread out in a large skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and cook over mediumhigh heat without disturbing for 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Flip and cook other side until browned. Place one slice eggplant on bottom half of each roll. Divide chicken among sandwiches. Spread olive tapenade over chicken. Move baking sheet with open-faced sandwiches to oven to warm 3 to 4 minutes. 3. To prepare the sweet-hot mayonnaise, mix together all ingredients. Remove sandwiches from oven and spread mayonnaise on top half of toasted rolls. Serve sandwiches warm. ■

CHICKEN-VEGETABLE ENCHILADAS VERDE SUISSE: per serving: calOries 459 (205 from fat); FaT 23g (sat. 12g); cHOl 72mg; sODiuM 971mg; carB 41g; FiBer 5g; prOTein 23g

LEEK & WILD RICE CHICKEN SOUP (NON-CREAMY): per serving: calOries 279 (100 from fat); FaT 11g (sat. 4g); cHOl 51mg; sODiuM 552mg; carB 25g; FiBer 3g; prOTein 22g

EGGPLANT, MARINATED OLIVES & CHICKEN CIABATTA W. MAYONNAISE: per serving: calOries 676 (432 from fat); FaT 49g (sat. 7g); cHOl 45mg; sODiuM 808mg; carB 41g; FiBer 9g; prOTein 19g


leek and wild rice chicken soup

eggplant, marinated olives, and chicken ciabatta with tangy sweet-hot mayonnaise

spring 2013 real food 59


Tried and True Dr. Andrew Weil wants to spread the word that food that tastes good and food that is good for you are not two different things. By Lisa Rogak

60 real food spring 2013


E

ven though Andrew Weil, M.D., has been a readily identifiable popular figure in American culture for several decades —after all, this dead ringer for Santa Claus has appeared countless times on Oprah and Dr. Oz, and has made the cover of Time magazine not once but twice—he is not without controversy. But it’s not because he served as co-author of the book From Chocolate to Morphine: Everything You Need to Know About Mind-Altering Drugs— which is still in print—or as a contributing writer to High Times magazine for eight years. Or that he’s long promoted the value of alternative medical therapies as a worthy supplement to traditional Western medical treatments. It’s a little simpler than that.

“The main thing I want to teach people is that eating healthfully does not automatically mean a bland, tasteless unattractive diet,” he says. “In other words, food that tastes good that is also good for you are not two different things.” Sounds like basic common sense, but the truth is that this simple tenet is indeed hard for the public as well as most experts to swallow. “Andrew Weil is a rare member of a special class of diet gurus,” declares no less than Marion Nestle, esteemed nutritionist and professor at New York University. “He appreciates good food.” Indeed, since he’s been viewed as a health icon all these years, more inclined to dish out advice, with best-selling books including 8 Weeks to Optimum Health, Healthy Aging, and Spontaneous Happiness, few people know that he absolutely loves to cook, even when he’s solo. His natural passion for being in the kitchen has led to his latest book, True Food: Seasonal, Sustainable, Simple, Pure. Though he did collaborate on an earlier cookbook, The Healthy Kitchen, with another Oprah-esque personality, Rosie Daley, in 2002, Weil’s new book is at once more personal and compelling, as is his history with food and all things culinary. His love of cooking took root in the 1960s when he was in medical school, where he was dismayed at the poor quality of the food at the hospital. He started cooking as a way to remedy that and soon discovered that he began to look forward to preparing a great meal at the end of each day as a way to reduce stress after a long shift at the hospital. After he received his medical degree from Harvard in 1968, instead of proceeding directly into private practice, Weil chose an unconventional path. He decided to combine travel and research to determine how different cultures viewed and treated both illness and health, and how their cuisines in turn influenced both. Over the years, he’s tinkered with and fine-tuned his philosophy about the kind of diet that would best build and nurture good health while not skimping on the satisfaction factor.

Tuscan Kale Salad, a signature dish at True Food Kitchen

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‘‘

The main thing I want to teach people is that eating healthfully does not automatically mean a bland, tasteless unattractive diet.

‘‘

62 real food spring 2013

Indeed, though Weil has endeavored to get the anti-inflammatory message out in a variety of venues, he says that the only way people really get it is by tasting for themselves. In fact, he’s witnessed numerous friends who got it after they ate a meal Weil had cooked for them. Both sides invariably enjoyed this a-ha moment, but Weil wasn’t interested in starting a restaurant of his own due to his already hectic schedule—or for cooking for people in his home every night, for that matter. So he reached out to a few established restaurateurs in the Southwest, where he lives, including veteran restaurateur Sam Fox. When he agreed to meet Weil in 2007, Fox already knew customers were demanding what Weil was proposing, since his chefs were actively developing vegan and glutenfree dishes in his restaurants. But he was also skeptical. “When I thought of Andy Weil, I thought: hippie, Birkenstocks, vegan food,” Fox admits in True Food. Everything changed when Weil invited Fox to his home and prepared a spread that included curried cauliflower soup, salmon cakes, and a vegetarian Caesar salad. “It was a killer meal,” said Fox. “After dinner, [he] seemed a little more open to the concept,” Weil comments drily. The first True Food Kitchen opened in Phoenix in 2008, with five more following in California and Colorado. The True Food cookbook is a direct result of the wild success of the restaurant from Day One. “We did the cookbook because there was lots of demand for the recipes after opening the restaurants,” says Weil. Fox is listed as co-author along with Michael Stebner, the executive chef in charge of all True Food Kitchen restaurants. Talk turns to his favorite recipes in the book, which include Tuscan Kale Salad—considered to be the signature dish at True Food Kitchen—Scallops with Kale Pesto, and Seafood Fideo, a Spanish noodle and broth dish teeming with cod, shrimp, and clams. Weil is particularly thrilled that kale is now getting discovered at farmers’ markets and featured on more restaurant menus across the country. Though you can use

headshot courtesy of weil lifestyle

I

n addition to promoting alternative medical therapies such as acupuncture and homeopathic medicine, Weil believes that following an anti-inflammatory diet is a major key to good health. The thinking goes like this: A little—albeit temporary— inflammation in the tissues of the body is a good thing. “It’s how the body heals itself, the way it [draws] more nourishment and immune activity to an area that needs them,” writes Weil. However, in this case, more definitely isn’t better, and he points to research and studies that indicate that many chronic illnesses are caused in part by never-ending inflammation of body tissues. If the inflammation never totally leaves, diseases such as heart attack, stroke, and cancer can result. According to Weil, the primary cause of chronic inflammation is a diet heavy in processed foods, sugar, and meat—in other words, the typical American diet. An anti-inflammatory diet, on the other hand, skews exclusively toward fresh and foods consumed as close to their natural states as possible. “It’s closely related to a traditional Mediterranean diet that goes light on meat, sugar, and processed grains to emphasize olive oil, fish, yogurt, and plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables and whole grains,” says Weil.


any kind of kale in the recipes, Weil prefers Tuscan kale—also referred to as black kale, Russian kale, or dinosaur kale—for its more tender texture and complex flavor. He stresses that consumers should purchase organic kale whenever possible, since the leafy green recently made the Environmental Working Group’s list of the top 12 fruits and vegetables with the highest degree of pesticide residue. As for a favorite ingredient, Weil has one pick. “One of the most important ingredients to keep in stock is a good extra virgin olive oil, which is a very strong anti-inflammatory ingredient,” he says. Of course, shopping for olive oil in the supermarket can be a daunting prospect, with dozens of choices available. “The best course is to taste it first,” he says. “Take a small sip and if you feel a peppery tickle or bite in the back of your throat along with a fruity taste, that’s a sign of high quality.” If you can’t try before you buy, Weil suggests refraining from buying oil in giant containers by the large national brands. Instead, focus on purchasing small bottles from small producers in Italy, Greece, California, and Spain, since they’re more likely to have that bite as well as be fresher. What’s next on Weil’s plate? Plans include another cookbook, and after living such a complex, satisfyingly curious life, Weil says it’s time to write his memoirs. And there are more True Food Kitchens opening up, with the next restaurant slated to open in Dallas in 2013. No matter what he decides to do, he will continue to spread the word so that more people can have an “a-ha” moment of their own. “It’s possible to make easy-to-prepare real food from simple ingredients that also conforms to cutting-edge nutritional principles,” he says. “I just want to see more people get back in the kitchen and try it.” 

photos and recipe from true food: seasonal, sustainable, simple, pure by andrew weil, md and sam fox, with Michael Stebner; Photography by Ditte Isager; Copyright © 2012; published by Little, Brown and Company, $30.

Sweet Potato–Poblano Soup makes 6 servings

Soups are ideal for serving nutrient-dense foods. Chop a bunch of vegetables and simmer them in water or stock to make a flavorful vegetable broth. This version involves roasting for deeper flavor, but it is still easy and quick to prepare. Paying close attention to the seasonality of your main ingredients will drastically improve results.

1 large sweet potato, peeled and diced 1 small onion, diced ½ cup corn kernels, shaved from 1 ear corn 1 small carrot, diced 1 small fennel bulb, diced 4 garlic cloves, mashed 1 poblano chile, seeded and diced 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup white wine 1 (14-ounce) can light coconut milk ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 2 or 3 scallions, thinly sliced

1. Preheat the oven to broil. Line a baking pan with aluminum foil. 2. Toss sweet potato, onion, corn, carrot, fennel, garlic, and poblano together in a large bowl. Add the olive oil and toss to coat. Arrange vegetables in a single layer in the prepared pan and broil 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan and toss vegetables. Cook for another 5 to 7 minutes, or until browned on top. Take care not to burn the vegetables. 3. Transfer the vegetables to a large pot. Stir in the chili powder, cumin, oregano, cayenne, turmeric, salt, pepper, wine, and 3 quarts water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer the soup for 45 minutes. 4. Remove the soup from the heat and whisk in the coconut milk. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with the cilantro and scallions before serving.

spring 2013 real food 63


pairings

Ah, at last—spring and the bursting of beautifully colored, floral-scented rosés from around the world. What a comeback story. The image of yore was of a sickly, sweet starter wine for novices. Now, savvy wine lovers are flocking to rosé, considered one of the most versatile partners for a variety of foods. It’s almost impossible to find a pairing that will not match. Rosés are also pocketbook friendly, whether from South Africa or Long Island or Oregon (don’t even get us started on what’s coming out of California). The king of the rosé hill, however, remains Tavel, the only AOC in France to produce just rosé wines—very bone-dry wines, at that. These brilliant coral-colored wines evoke spicy, raspberry flavors and are terrific as an apéritif or married with anything you put on the grill tonight. The wines from Tavel, located in the southern Rhône Valley across the river from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, come in a variety of styles, so the joy comes from sampling a wide variety of producers. Now, think springtime in France with a glass of rosé from Tavel.

64 real food spring 2013

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

Nothing Says Spring Like Rosé


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Lunds and Byerly's REAL FOOD Spring 2013