Jewellery Historian #26

Jewellery Historian

Photo courtesy of Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent © Patrick Demarchelier

THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

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PIERRE BERGÉ A life of love

26 THE

BEST

KEPT

SECRET

IN

THE

WORLD

OF

LUXYRY

PIERRE BERGÉ Businessman, collector and patron of the arts, we honor the memory of an exceptional man, Pierre Bergé (1930-2017)

HIVER IMPÉRIAL BY BOUCHERON

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Boucheron introduces Hiver Impérial, its new collection of high jewelry inspired by the aura of the Far East’s vast stretches of snow covered land.

MAGNIFICENT JEWELS

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On 3 October, Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale 2017 will bring to the market a series of iconic masterpieces hailing from legendary jewellers

WALLACE CHAN

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Wallace Chan will give in October a talk at Harvard University and take part in a dialogue on jewelry creation with museum curators. He will also exhibit in TETAF New York with new pieces. Discover in avant-première amazing new pieces by a great artist.

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CONTENTS

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C A F E

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B A R

E L A S I D O N

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R E S T A U R A N T

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A T H E N S

211 4007882 www.qbee.gr

Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com

FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou

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PIERRE A lifeBERGÉ of love

CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos GEMOLOGY EDITOR | Eva Kountouraki, G.G (GIA) PARTNERS | Martin Huynh, Catherine Varoucha,

COVER | Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 2002 © Patrick Demarchelier With permission, Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent

COLUMNISTS | Lara van Schaik, G.G (GIA), Preeta Agarwal CREATIVE | Jewellery Historian PRODUCTION | Jewellery Historian PHOTO AGENCIES | Shutterstock, iStock, Unsplash GRAPHIC DESIGN | Jewellery Historian ADVERTISING | Jewellery Historian WEB | www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-MAIL | info@jewelleryhistorian.com

Made in the European Union Printed copies available exclusively by Print of Demand JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2017

All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine.

Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only.

Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies.

The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CONTENTS | ISSUE 26

233

163

Vivien Leigh Collection

CARLO PALMIERO

Hollywood icon and incandescent star of one of the most beloved films of all time, Vivien Leigh captured hearts and minds with her fiery, luminous performance as Scarlett O’Hara in Gone with the Wind in 1939.

Carlo Palmiero, founder of Palmiero Jewellery Design, represents the artistic avant-garde per excellence in the high jewellery sector. Discover his amazing new creations.

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FINE JEWELS AT SOTHEBYS

JEAN DESPRÉS

Aerin Lauder selects Day & Night Looks from the 300+ jewels on offer, including pieces from her personal collection sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation®

He is the father of machine age jewellery. Després : avant-gardist, silver smith, artist-jeweller, Bourguignon and above all modest. La Châtelaine invites you to learn about an amazing artist.

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EXECUTIVE MOONSTRUCK WORLDTIMER

NEW COLLECTION AT FABERGÉ

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In keeping with its fondness for delight and discovery, Fabergé unveils new surprises. Discover amazing new pieces of the famous jewellery and new collections of jewellery with a story.

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JEWELLERY WITH A PURPOSE

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SACET is a luxury lifestyle brand on a truly unique journey. One that aims to redefine your relationship with designer jewellery; from how it is designed, sourced, manufactured and sold.

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250 51

Simplicity through watchmaking eloquence: this new model remains the only watch to depict the movements of the moon and sun in relation to the Earth, as well as a map of the tides.

SHOWCASE Previously known as OUR FAVES, this new column is a window to a new world of craftsmanship, beauty and creativity. Discover amazing jewellery and timepieces and a unique new experience.

M E D I A PA RT N E R S

EDITOR’S LETTER

F

or many years I wanted it to offer to all designers around the globe the voice they didn’t had, to offer them the possibility to showcase their exceptional talent and share their creative vision with an international audience. With a passion for knowledge and critical inquiry, while searching new and innovative ways of delivering information that

can resonate long after publication, combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, I decided few years ago to launch the Jewellery Historian, a project to promote design and designers, the first online magazine exclusively focused on jewellery & timepieces.

The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of work shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer period of time. The main goal of our publication is to be a celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication about the talented artists and about the people that create exceptional jewellery and unique timepieces. We showcase artists and brands whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. With each issue we invite our readers to explore the stories of passionate people and the motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles.

We do our best to offer a unique perspective to connoisseurs and people who love not only jewellery & timepieces, but mainly design and unique craftsmanship, and the Jewellery Historian is today considered by many decision makers & connoisseurs as the "Best kept secret in the world of luxury". As a digital magazine & a limited edition book, the Jewellery Historian has definitely a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, which combined to a minimal and clean design offers to readers from around the globe a unique reading experience.

But at the Jewellery Historian, we’re always looking for ways to make the lives of our readers and of all our partners easier. Our development & design team is constantly revisiting the functionality of our magazine to discover new ways we can enrich the reading experience. In our mission to make that a reality, we’re happy to introduce with this issue the new layout. The new design is clean, simple and modern with a lot of whitespace, so that our readers focus to all amazing creations made by our precious and prestigious partners, wrapped up in beautiful words, illustration and photography, and collected into a beautifully designed print artifact.

FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JEWELLERY HISTORIAN MAGAZINE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM

PIERRE BERGÉ A life of love

Pierre Bergé, Rue Bonaparte, Paris, 2015 © Eric Jansen Page 9

IN MEMORIAM

PIERRE BERGÉ 1930-2017

It is with immense sadness that we were informed from the Fondation Pierre Bergé -

is today: an important cultural center of Morocco.

Yves Saint Laurent, Paris and the Fondation Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech the death of their founding president Pierre Bergé, which occurred on September 8, 2017, at 5.39 am, a t h o m e i n S a i n t - R é m y - d e - Pro v e n c e .

He died in his sleep at the age of 86 following a long illness.

In 2015, the President of France, François Hollande, promoted Pierre Bergé to the rank of Grand Officier of the Ordre national de la Légion d’honneur. The following year, His Majesty Mohammed VI, King of Morocco, awarded him the Grand Cross of the Order of Ouissam Alaouite for eminent service to the

Businessman, collector and patron of the

Kingdom of Morocco.

arts, Pierre Bergé was the companion of Yves Saint Laurent with whom he founded the Yves Saint Laurent couture house in 1961, and which he directed until 2002.

A lover of the arts and literature, he and Saint Laurent assembled one of the most important private art collections in the world, which was sold at auction in 2009 following the death of the couturier the previous year.

Pierre Bergé was one of the great patrons of the arts and culture in France. He served as director of the Théâtre de l’Athénée – Louis-Jouvet and president of the Opéra National de Paris. An activist since his youth, he remained politically engaged throughout his life. In 1994, he founded Sidaction, France’s leading AIDS research and support charity, and actively supported groups fighting social inequality. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent discovered Morocco in 1966 and fell in love

This autumn, he was to inaugurate two museums dedicated to the work of Yves Saint Laurent, in Paris and Marrakech.

Pierre Bergé was born on the Île d’Oléron on November 14, 1930. His mother was a schoolteacher, and his father was a civil servant. He took an early interest in literature and moved to Paris in 1948, where he became a book dealer specializing in first editions. He socialized with such writers as Pierre Mac Orlan, Jean Cocteau (over whose work he had moral rights), Louis Aragon, Albert Camus, Jean-Paul Sartre, and André Breton. In 1950, he met the painter Bernard Buffet. They became companions, and Bergé would go on to guide Buffet’s career over the next eight years. In 1950, he also befriended the writer Jean Giono, who would play an important role in his life.

with the country. They saved the Jardin

In 1958, Bergé met Yves Saint Laurent. In

Majorelle from destruction and made it what it

1961, they established the Yves Saint Laurent haute couture house, which Bergé would

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM

manage until 2002. In 1973, he was elected president of the Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode. In 1986, he created the Institut Français de la Mode, which provides education related to the fashion and textile industries. He continued to preside over this institution to this day. Bergé was also the founding president of the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, which was recognized as a public utility in 2002 and works to conserve Saint Laurent’s body of work, organize exhibitions, and support cultural and educational activities.

Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent discovered Morocco in 1966 and immediately fell in love with a country which would play an important role in their lives. In 1980, they acquired the Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech, saving it from destruction by real estate developers. Today it has become one of the most visited sites in Morocco, welcoming nearly 800,000 visitors per year.

The non- profit Fondation Jardin Majorelle, established by Pierre Bergé in 2001, ensures the safeguarding and maintenance of the garden. Its benefits are used to support cultural, educational and social initiatives in Morocco. In 2011, Pierre Bergé inaugurated the first museum in the world dedicated to Amazigh culture; the Berber Museum, located at the Jardin Majorelle, plays an significant role in building awareness of the Amazigh people and their important contribution to the Moroccan identity.

In 1977, Bergé’s passion for the theater and opera led him to acquire the Théâtre de l’Athénée – Louis-Jouvet, which he managed until 1982 when he donated it to the French government. He created an additional, more intimate performance space devoted to avant-garde theater in the building’s attic. It was designed by Jacques Grange and named after the French artist, illustrator, and designer Christian Bérard. Under his direction, the theater presented plays by classical authors and emerging playwrights. Along with Danièle Cattand, he created Les Lundis musicaux de l’Athénée, which showcased the world’s most talented musicians up until 1989. Bergé produced plays by Peter Shaffer, Antoine Vitez, Claude Régy, Marguerite Duras, Peter Brook, and Robert Wilson, as well as concerts by John Cage and Philip Glass. In 1988, he was named president of the Opéra de Paris (including the Opéra Bastille, which he opened one year later). He would continue to hold this position until 1994, when he was named honorary president.

“In order to be a patron, you have to be an art lover,” Bergé has said. Named Grand Mécène des Arts et de la Culture by the French government in 2001, Bergé has financed a number of projects that have been dear to him, including: the acquisition of Georges de La Tour’s painting Saint Thomas à la pique by the Musée du Louvre en 1988; the renovation of two rooms bearing both his and Yves Saint Laurent’s names at the National Gallery in London in 1998; the renovation and the interior refurbishment of the Musée national d’art moderne – Centre Pompidou’s legendary collections in 1999; and the exhibition Picasso Érotique at the Jeu de Paume in Paris in 2001.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM

Yves Saint Laurent et Pierre Bergé Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 2002 © Patrick Demarchelier Page 12

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM

He presided over the Cercle des Amis du Ring, which was created when Richard Wagner’s Ring cycle was presented at the Opéra national de Paris during the 2010-2011 season. Bergé was the leading patron of the exhibition Les visages et les corps, which the film and theater director Patrice Chéreau was invited to coordinate at the Musée du Louvre in 2010. That same year he presided over the Festival Normandie Impressionniste. In 2014, he helped to fund the renovation of the prestigious Villa Kujoyama in Kyoto, which hosts French residencies.

Over the years, Bergé and Saint Laurent assembled one of the most important art collections in the world. In 2009, the collection was sold at the Grand Palais in Paris for the sum of nearly 375 million euros, benefitting the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent and AIDS research. In 1994, Bergé and the French actress Line Renaud created Ensemble contre le SIDA, which works to educate the public about AIDS and raise money for research. Bergé was president of this association, which is now known as Sidaction. The Fonds de dotation Pierre Bergé, which was created in 2009, donated two million euros to the fight against AIDS annually over a period of five years. Bergé was also an active supporter of Act Up-Paris and SOS Racisme.

As a young activist, Bergé participated in Garry Davis’s One World movement. In 1984, he befriended François Mitterrand and went on to create the magazine Globe in 1988, which supported Mitterand’s presidential campaign. Along with Jacques Rosselin, he founded the French weekly Courrier International in 1990 and the gay magazine Têtu in 1995. With the help of Xavier Niel and Matthieu Pigasse, Bergé became majority shareholder of the Groupe Le Monde in 2010. He was named president of the supervisory board.

Bergé is the author of many books, including Inventaire Mitterrand (Stock, 1991), Les jours s’en vont je demeure (Gallimard, 2003), L’Album Cocteau (La Pléiade, Gallimard, 2006), Lettres à Yves (Gallimard, 2010), and Yves Saint Laurent : Une passion marocaine (Éditions de La Martinière, 2010). He was also a keen bibliophile. His personal library, which he began assembling early on and reflected his individual pursuits, contained over 1,600 valuable editions from the fifteenth to the twentienth centuries. Its auction started in 2015.

In June 2010, the Comité Cocteau, over which Bergé presided, opened the Maison Cocteau in Milly-la-Forêt. In 2011, Bergé launched the restoration of the Maison Zola in Médan and the creation of the Musée Alfred Dreyfus, a project overseen by the Association Maison Zola – Musée Dreyfus (of which he was also president).

In 2015, the President of France, François Hollande, promoted Pierre Bergé to the rank of Grand Officier of the Ordre national de la Légion d’honneur. The following year, His Majesty Mohammed VI, King of Morocco, awarded him the Grand Cross of the Order of Ouissam Alaouite for eminent service to the Kingdom of Morocco.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM

3

1

2

4

5 1. Bernard Buffet and, Jean Giono, Pierre Bergé, 1950 © DR 2. Pierre Bergé, 1957 © Claude Buffet 3. Jean Cocteau and Pierre Bergé, 1958 © Edouard Dermitt 4. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, Dar Es Saada, Marrakech, 1977 © Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Guy Marineau 5. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, 1982 © Didier Fèvre Page 14

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM

At his initiative, two museums dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent will be opening this autumn: in Paris, on October 3rd, in the former premises of the haute couture house, and in Marrakech, on October 19th, in a new building next to the Jardin Majorelle.

For us all at the Jewellery Historian, Pierre Bergé was a man we loved and admired and we will all miss him. We wanted to honor the life of this exceptional man and this article and cover was a way for us to publicly thank him for everything. We would like to express our sincere condolences to his husband, his family, his relatives, all his friends and to the Foundation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent.

Yves Saint Laurent et Pierre Bergé, Château Gabriel, Bénerville-sur-mer, circa 1985 © Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Guy Marineau

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM

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6. François Mitterrand et Pierre Bergé Paris, circa 1990 © DR 7. Pierre Bergé, Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Marrakech, 2010 8. Pierre Bergé, Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, 2017 © Luc Castel

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Rare Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond 'Tutti-Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

SOTHEBY’S HONG KONG MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND JADEITE AUTUMN SALE On 3 October, Sotheby’s Hong Kong

14,000,000/US$1,300,000 – 1,800,000) A

Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale

witness to the fin-de-siècle when Art Deco was

2017 will bring to the market a series of iconic

at its peak, this classic 'Tutti-Frutti' bracelet by

masterpieces hailing from legendary jewellers,

Cartier weds the bold and vibrant designs of

highlighted by a rare art deco ‘Tutti Frutti’

the East to the elegant and classic aesthetics

Cartier bracelet, an exquisite 8.49-carat ruby

of the West. Rich with Indian influences, the

ring by JAR and an impressive emerald and

Tutti Frutti jewels blossomed with ripe Mughal

diamond parure by Van Cleef & Arpels. The

fruits and foliage, each individual piece an

sale will also feature a fine selection of rare

i n t r i c a t e l y c a r v e d s a p p h i r e , r u b y o r

coloured diamonds, exceptional gemstones

emerald, intertwined with a ribbon of

and bejewelled garden themed selection

d i a m o n d s . Fo l l o w i n g i t s i n c e p t i o n ,

inspired by the flora and fauna of nature. Over

Cartier’s ateliers became an obligatory

250 lots estimated in excess of

stopover for visiting Maharajas. Christened the

HK$650,000,000/US$83,000,000 will be

name ‘Tutti Frutti’ in 1970, the exuberant

offered this season.

colours and sumptuous textures bear

QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of International

testament to one of Cartier’s most iconic collections of the Art Deco era.

Jewellery, Asia, said, “We are extremely

An Exquisite 8.49ct Burmese Ruby and

pleased to present a great selection of the

Diamond Ring, JAR (Est. HK$13,000,000 –

marvellous jewels to captivate our Asian

15,000,000/US$1,700,000 – 1,900,000)

jewellery connoisseurs: From an iconic Cartier

Through the years, part of the JAR mystique

‘Tutti Frutti’ masterpiece to an amazingly rare

has come from the fact that the jewels

‘pigeon’s blood’ ruby in a revolutionary mounting by India supremo, BHAGAT, not to mention blue and pink diamonds and an array of precious gemstones. We are also delighted to offer a great rarity - The Woolworth Yard Jadeite Necklace which dates from 1957.”

L o n d o n ’s S o m e r s e t H o u s e i n 2 0 0 2 - 2003 caused a sensation within the international jewellery world, whilst the 2013 Metropolitan Museum, New York 2013 retrospective, Jewels by JAR, demonstrated

T I M E L E S S TA L E S O F L E G E N D A R Y JEWELLERS A Rare and Important Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond 'Tutti-Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier (Est. HK$10,500,000 –

were so rarely seen in public. An exhibition at

the full force of his protean talent. Featuring in The Impossible Collection of Jewellery: The 100 Most Important Jewels of the Twentieth Century publication, JAR’s jewels rank amongst the great art jewels of history. This 8.49ct Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring,

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

displays JAR’s fine, meticulous pavé work. His

pays tribute to the history of the Maison and

attention to detail demonstrated in the simple

its indefatigable representatives who travel

mounting of the ring itself. When worn, the

the globe in the quest of the finest gems. Of

ruby is designed to be in constant contact to

this collection, four exceptional rings were

the wearer’s skin, accentuating the gem’s

made especially for its presence in the 25th

associations with power and protection,

Biennale des Antiques in Paris, representing

creating a subtle but significant connection

each of the four Verne novels; Five Weeks in

between the gem and the wearer.

a Balloon, From the Earth to the Moon,

Exquisite Jade, Diamond and Ruby Brooch, BHAGAT (Est. HK$2,000,000 – 2,800,000/US$256,000 – 358,000) Crowned with the majesty of the opulent Indian treasures, BHAGAT jewels encompass the sophistication of Mughal artistry and the grandeur of Islamic structures, blended with the elegancy of Art Deco; an incarnation of the past enduring through the present.

Ardent admirers of jade, Mughal emperors d e l i g h t e d i n c o l l e c t i n g e x q u i s i t e l y

Journey to the Center of the Earth and Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Named the Hydôr Ring, this ring is inspired

by Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Dedicated to the fluidity of water, the swirling gradient of bright diamonds to light and dark sapphires are reminiscent of the gradual plunge deep into the oceanic abyss. Whilst the 20.04 carat sapphire, fixed as the glorious centre, remains the constant – a reminder of how inescapably the ocean reigns supreme.

carved works of jade, symbolising their

Jadeite Bead and Diamond Necklace,

dynastic aspirations and exhibiting the

Raymond Yard, 1957 (Est. HK$400,000 –

acculturative genius of Mughal style of art

600,000/US$51,500 – 77,000) Made in 1957,

with the harmonious integration of

this Jadeite Bead and Diamond Necklace

intercultural influences. Designed as a

reflects the classic Yard Art Deco aesthetics of

stylized poppy, the flower gracefully emerges from a sinuous diamond encrusted stem, which terminates in an old-mine pear-shaped diamond leaf. The sensuousness and tactile qualities of Mughal jade resonates through the delicate celadon green jade, carved with contrasting techniques used between the front and rear petals.

Fine Sapphire and Diamond Ring, 'Les

aiming to achieve an overall luminous sophistication; a look that would not overwhelm the design. An image of the Art Deco clasp rendering retrieved from the Raymond Yard archives, records Mr. Woolworth as purchasing this exquisite piece for the Woolworth collection – a celebrated legacy shared by Woolworth and Yard.

RARE DIAMONDS

Voyages Extraordinaires', Van Cleef & Arpels (Est. HK$2,800,000 - 3,800,000/US$360,000 – 490,000) Les Voyages ExtraordinairesTM, Van Cleef & Arpel’s whimsical collection inspired by four of Jules Verne’s fantastical novels,

Very Rare and Important Fancy Deep Blue Diamond Ring (Est. HK$55,000,000 – 75,000,000/US$7,000,000 – 9,600,000) Blue diamonds possess the captivating colour and intensity reminiscent of the depths of the

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An 8.49ct Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring, JAR

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Sapphire and Diamond Ring, 'Les Voyages Extraordinaires', Van Cleef & Arpels

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Exquisite Jade, Diamond and Ruby Brooch, BHAGAT

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Jadeite Bead and Diamond Necklace, Raymond Yard

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Jadeite and Diamond Clip Brooch

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond and Diamond Earrings, 5.21 5.01 cts

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

Very Rare and Important Fancy Deep Blue Diamond, 5.14 cts ring

Very Fine Unmounted Diamond, 31.98cts

Important Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring 20.03cts.

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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lapis Lazuli, Enamel and Emerald Clip Brooch, 'Panthère', Cartier

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Azure Sea and are considered amongst the

Important Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond

world’s rarest coloured diamonds. To find a

Ring (Est. HK$16,000,000 –

pure blue diamond with the level of

20,000,000/US$2,050,000 – 2,560,000)

saturation required to grade it as Fancy Deep

An Emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond

is extraordinary; of which less than 10% of

weighing 20.03 Carat.

blue diamonds examined by the GIA are awarded. In recent years, Sotheby’s has been at the forefront of record-setting auction prices for blue diamonds. In 2015, Sotheby’s Geneva set the then world auction record for

Accompanied by a GIA report stating that the 20.03 carat diamond is natural Fancy Vivid Yellow Colour and Internally Flawless.

RARE COLOURED STONES

any blue diamond with the sale of The Blue Moon of Josephine for an astounding US$48,468,158. Whilst Sotheby’s Hong Kong has been leading with an offering of blue diamonds this past decade, with the recent Millennium Jewel 4 in 2016, as well as setting the current world auction record price-percarat for a Fancy Intense Blue diamond earlier this spring.

Very Rare and Important 13.26 carat Ruby and Diamond Ring, Designed and Mounted by BHAGAT (Est. HK$68,000,000 – 88,000,000/US$8,700,000 – 11,260,000) Unrivalled in colour, life and vitality, rubies have long been revered as the ‘King of Gems’. The legendary mines of Burma are renowned in producing the most desirable rubies, sought after by gem connoisseurs

Exquisite Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond and

worldwide. The colour of a ruby is the single

D i a m o n d Pe n d e n t E a r r i n g s ( E s t .

most important criterion of a ruby’s quality –

HK$30,000,000 – 40,000,000/US$3,840,000 –

the most coveted being a bright and pure

5,120,000) Each set with a pear-shaped fancy

red, of high saturation.

pink diamond weighing 5.21 and 5.01 carats.

Both Fancy Pink diamonds accompanied by GIA reports stating that the diamonds are natural, Fancy Pink Colour, Internally Flawless and VS1 clarity respectively.

Given the regal name of Maniraja, meaning ‘King of Jewels’ due to its intense and homogenous red colour, the Maniraja r u b y h a s m e r i t e d t h e p r e s t i g i o u s descriptive term of ‘pigeon blood’ for its high

Very Fine Unmounted Diamond, 31.98cts

colour intensity and superb quality, from both

(Est. HK$37,000,000 –

Gübelin and SSEF Gem Laboratories.

48,000,000/US$4,700,000 – 6,000,000) A

Majestic on every level, the Maniraja’s

brilliant-cut diamond weighing 31.98 carats.

impressive size of 13.26 carats, combines an

Accompanied by a GIA report stating that the 31.98 carat diamond is D colour,

impeccable cut emphasising the exceptional lustre, whilst intensifying the crimson glow.

Flawless, with Excellent Cut, Polish and

One of the most acclaimed jewellers of

Symmetry; as well as a Type IIa diamond

our time, to BHAGAT, design is paramount

classification letter.

and sacrosanct. Representing a sublime of artistry and craftsmanship, BHAGAT’s stylistic

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Very Rare and Important 13.26 carat Ruby and Diamond Ring, Designed and Mounted by BHAGAT

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

signature presents an etheral, efforless

THEMED SESSION: THE BEJEWELLED

lightness, touched with both a princely

GARDEN

hauteur and hint of sensuality. Using the cut and shape of gemstomes to create the desired silhouette of a the jewel, playing with light, texture and translucencies, this jewel boasts of its opulence with the superb majesty of the Maniraja ruby, enhancing the ravishing refinement of this original BHAGAT creation.

Mother Nature has long been an everlasting source of incredible inspiration to the artists and jewellery designers alike.

Captivated by the exquisite beauty of flora and fauna, myriads of masterpieces have flourished and bloomed throughout the history of mankind. Subtle musings of nature transformed into wondrous declarations of

Rare Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond

l o v e i n t h e f o r m o f b u t t e r fli e s a n d

Ring (Est. HK$8,750,000 –

enlightenment in dragonflies, the inspiration

11,000,000/US$1,120,000 – 1,410,000)

from botanic beauties boundless. From the

Discovered only in the 1980s, the Paraíba has

legendary beasts of Cartier, to the playful

quickly become one of the world’s most

a e s t h e t i c s o f m o d e r n c o n t e m p o ra r y

coveted gemstones. This rare and enigmatic

designers, creative interpretations are reborn

gemstone has set a new standard of

as extraordinary treasures, in a beautiful ode

excellence for colour interpretation in the

to nature. This season, Sotheby’s invites you

world of coloured gemstones. With the

to take a stroll through our bejewelled

Brazilian mines exhausted more than 20 years

garden, specially curated to delight the

ago, to find a stone over ten carats that is of

senses.

natural colour, with no clarity enhancement, is an absolute rarity.

Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744.

Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond

Sotheby’s became the first international

Ring (Est. HK$3,800,000 –

auction house when it expanded from

5,000,000/US$486,000 – 640,000)

London to New York (1955), the first to

Celebrated as an ethereal fusion of the pink

conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India

glow of a lotus bloom and the soft orange

(1992) and France (2001), and the first

hues of sunset, the Padparadscha sapphire is

international fine art auction house in China

an embodiment of rarity and elegance.

(2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in

Derived from the Sanskrit word ‘padma raga’

10 different salesrooms.

(lotus colour), the sapphire must exhibit the distinctive blend between delicate pink to orange tones to be truly called a Padparadscha. Highly prized by gem connoisseurs, the elusive and enigmatic Padparadscha delights with its blossoming beauty and romantic hue.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Rare Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring

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Rubellite and Diamond Brooch - Pendant, 'Orchid', Cartier

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Ring

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

SACET

Jewellery with a purpose SACET is a luxury lifestyle brand on a truly unique journey. One that aims to redefine your relationship with designer jewellery; from how it is designed, sourced, manufactured and sold.

SACET, sanskrit for consciousness, offers you a unique concept; SACET partners with and mentors emerging and existing design talent within the jewellery market to offer you an inspiring and intelligent array of timeless jewellery.

The ‘makers’ for the launch are Andrea Tan, Ana de Costa, Mazarin & Cie and Ailsa Mackie who all bring their independent creativity and inspiration to the SACET offering.

SACET epitomises a newfound spirituality and transparency, sourcing the finest ethical materials, creating a positive effect on the skilled artisans and craftsmen they employ and ultimately sharing their passion for the planet and profit.

Investing in jewellery should be a personal and reflective experience – a journey on which SACET wants to guide you through. SACET is more than a jewellery brand and this is merely the start of a compassionate journey through life.

SACET is the anchor at the helm of a new movement towards sustainable Jewellery, with design expertise at its core. It is not worthy, it is revolutionary and considered.

Fundamentally SACET is purely beautiful jewellery with a beautiful impact.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Sacet - Ornate Citrine Rose Gold Eternity Ring - £230

Sacet - Ornate Rose Gold Stacked Ring - £460 Page 36

Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Sacet - Ornate Geometric Gold Tassel Bracelet - £295 Page 37

Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Sacet - Ornate Amethyst Gold Eternity Ring - £230

Sacet - Ornate Gold Stacked Ring - £460

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET

Sacet - Marque Aureole Rose Gold Stud Earrings - £149

Sacet - Marque Plain Infinity Rose Gold Bangle - £205

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET

Sacet - Marque Diamond Ripple Gold Ring - £165

Sacet - Marque Gold Double Ring - £315

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Sacet - Belle Pink Amethyst Rose Gold Oval Ring - £215

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Sacet - Orbis Cluster Gold Ring - £565

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Photo courtesy of SACET © SACET

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY

Sacet - Belle Mix and Match Silver Drop Earrings - £435

Sacet - Belle Lolite and Opal Rose Gold Dipped Ring - £235

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Photo courtesy of Mahdis Mousavi / Unsplash

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LA CHÂTELAINE

JEAN DESPRÉS The father of machine age jewellery

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LA CHÂTELAINE

JEAN DESPRÉS The father of machine age jewellery His name popped up at several local

parents moved to Avallon in the Yonne on the

auctions in Auxerre, Joigny and Sens and

doorstep of the Morvan in Burgundy. He came

every time the lots were very recognizable, so I

from a family of master glass makers and his

started to become curious. Who is this Jean

father broke with family tradition and opened

Després? The work that went under the

a jewellery shop at 27, rue de Paris and later

hammer was mostly tableware or silver objects

moved to 20, Place Vauban. A small plaque de

and every now and then a piece of jewellery.

souvenir on the wall of the florist shop

The silverware was always hammered by hand

indicates that Després worked here from 1920

with a very distinctive decorative gourmet

to 1980. The family sold jewellery, table and

chain around the feet or the edges. Now I

glass ware and the shop was mostly run by his

know this work was made by Després in the

mother as his father Octave Després was often

fifties. But a trip to Avallon and Paris learns that

abroad on buying trips.

his most interesting work is from the 1920s and 1930s. Després : avant-gardist, silver smith, artist-jeweller, Bourguignon and above all modest.

Although Jean Després was not a particular good student, he did excel in drawing. A few technical drawings and landscape sketches survived. He was also keen

In his hometown, the Musée d’Avallonnais

on sports and very good at cycling. He always

dedicates an entire room to Jean Després. The

wanted to win. This competition driven

museum shows a collection of jewellery,

adolescent was soon to surprise the world by

cutlery, tableware, objects d’art and religious

his designs and would become one of the

pieces. I was surprised by the gifts Jean

most influential avant-garde artist-jeweller of

Després received during his life. Gifts from

the 20th century.

Braque, De Chirico and Paul Jouve, who were his friends. This man began to intrigue me.

Who was this man that lived and worked almost his entire life in the Yonne, my ‘departement’?

At the age of 16 his father send him to Paris, to the Marais quartier to learn the metier of silver smith. At the same time, he completed his education at the Paris school for drawing and visited the Bateau-Lavoir

Nevertheless, his story begins in the Allier.

where he met Modigliani, Picasso, Signac, De

Jean Després was born in 1889 in Souvigny in

Chirico, Marie Laurencin, Soutine and Braque

the centre of France and only a year later his

who became his best friend. The Bateau-Lavoir

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LA CHÂTELAINE

was the residence and meeting place in

Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et

Montmartre of well-known early 20th century

industriels Modernes, but it was not until

artists, writers, theatre makers and art dealers.

1928 that he exposed under his own name.

Picasso painted here his first cubist work Les

The public was not ready for his creations and

Demoiselles d’Avignon and Després became

ridiculed his designs. He wrote to his friend

fascinated by cubism.

Cournault: ‘The things that I made are

During the First World War he was put to work as a mechanics designer for the military aviation Industry. It was in Lyon that he

apparently too modern. People seem to be rather flabbergasted, but I could not make Marie-Antoinette stuff for them.’

worked on the famous Hispano-Suiza engins

Després really believed in himself and

that he developed his love for machine age

only a year later he was noticed by a

jewellery. After the war his ten-year younger

journalist of La Liberté who wrote about his

sister died of the Spanish flu and Després

work as ‘simple and original’ and in 1930 at

sense of duty draw him back to Avallon, were

the following salon his work was highly

he started running the family business and in

successful. From that time on he collaborated

1920 his parents handed the shop over to

with several artists and one of them was the

him.

painter Etienne Cournault, who painted Després knew all to well, being in the

countryside, that if he wanted to establish a name for himself he needed to show his work in Paris. It was the time of the roaring twenties, the Ballets Russes and new artist’s movements like cubism, fauvism and futurism. Després had paid attention to the lessons from his friend Braque. He fully understood the principles of modern art and by applying geometrical forms and shapes to his jewellery he became one of the founders

reverse paintings on glass. At the Musée d’Avallonnais is one of these reverse paintings exhibited together with a brooch and a pendant. Després created the jewellery for what he called ‘bijoux glaces’ or glass or mirror jewellery. The settings were mainly silver and sometimes inlaid with gold. The paintings were in black, grey and silver, and were ‘playing with the light and producing curious refractive effects’, according to a journalist of L’Art et le Mode.

of the Art Deco style.

1930 was also the year that his machine

At that time the Art Salons and International Exhibitions were particularly en vogue, Després with the help of Signac, submitted as much as he could to these exhibitions. At first his work was refused and when he was accepted the critics and public thought ill of him. He contributed to the 1925 Exposition

jewellery saw the light. At the exhibition ‘L Aeronautique et l Art’ Després showed a brooch, a ring and bracelet inspired on the machine parts he used to work with during the war. In itself very simple designs, but for that time revolutionary. You can see his connecting rod brooch in Avallon and the cam ring in Paris at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. His jewellery showed shapes like

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LA CHÂTELAINE

aeroplane parts, blades, connecting rods and

art and I worked like a labourer’. And he did.

camshafts. In the course of the decade he

He did not travel much, spend hours and

continued on this base and already in 1933

hours in his atelier and he died childless at

his work became more light, more soft and

the age of 91 in Avallon. Among his

more wearable. ‘Todays designs are just the

collectors were Josephine Baker and Andy

thing for the elegant, light and spontaneous

Warhol.

chic of Parisian women,’ wrote a journalist. He would continue with numerous ideas like the combination of turquoises and pearls, in stainless steel and used themes like theatre, sports and aeronautics.

Where to see his work:

M u s é e d A v a l l o n a i s

Després influence on the other artist jewellers was huge. The style of his ‘bijoux moteurs’ inspired other jewellery artists like Raymond Templier, Rene Boivin and Jean Fouquet, but also several chic Maisons like Boucheron, Mauboussin and Chaumet copied the style and brought very elaborate versions on the market in yellow, rose and red gold and set with diamonds and precious stones.

Després worked on until his death in 1980. After the Second World War, he started to exhibit his work abroad. He opened a gallery in Paris and divided his life and work

5 , r u e d u c o l l è g e 89200 Avallon www.museeavallonnais.com Musée des Arts Décoratifs 107, Rue Rivoli 75001 Paris http://lesartsdecoratifs.fr Sources and Books Jean Després, Jeweler, Maker and Designer of the Machine Age by Melissa Gabardi Published by Thames and Hudson in Italian, French and English Jean Després: Bijoutier et orfèvre entre Art Deco et modernité by Mellisa Gabardi Published by Norma

between Avallon and Paris. A typical saying of him was: ‘Sketches in Paris, hammer in Avallon’. He found inspiration in Paris and met most of his clients. But he loved life in Avallon, he was a gourmand, a real Bourgignon, he loved food and was member of several gourmet clubs. He always stayed

Due to copyright restrictions, it was impossible to illustrate with photos this article.

Please excuse us for the inconvenience.

modest and preferred to see himself as an artisan rather than an artist. He was one of the few artist-jewellers who designed, sketched, planned and made his jewellery himself. He did not wanted to delegate his work and he hated mass production. He said : ‘I love my

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

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FABERGÉ

Jewellery with a story During our recent visit to Fabergé we discover

whilst intricate openwork patterns reminiscent of

the Fabergé Heritage Collection, a collection that

gemstone facets adorn rings and bracelet like a

draws inspiration from Fabergé’s original jewelled

talisman.

masterpieces, capturing their refinement, cultural richness and technical perfection. These signature Fabergé techniques are reinterpreted for an elegant and contemporary look.

In keeping with its fondness for delight and discovery, Fabergé has concealed unexpected surprises within the locket pendants, which embody Peter Carl Fabergé’s philosophy of fusing

In keeping with its fondness for delight and

artistry, craftsmanship and ingenuity.

discovery, Fabergé is thrilled to unveil new surprises: Fabergé Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Ladybird Locket and Fabergé Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Ladybird Locket.

Distinctive and stylish, Fabergé offers a playful interpretation of a popular, stackable accessory.

The Fabergé Bangles are a series of comfort fit open-set and crossover bangles, available in white,

Distinctive and stylish, Fabergé offers a playful interpretation of a popular, stackable accessory.

yellow and rose gold, completed with Fabergé’s iconic egg-shape.

The Fabergé Bangles are a series of comfort fit open-set and crossover bangles, available in white, yellow and rose gold, completed with Fabergé’s iconic egg-shape.The Heritage collection draws inspiration from Fabergé’s original jewelled masterpieces, capturing their refinement, cultural richness and technical perfection.

Traditional, often complex, materials and techniques such as the delicate art of hot enamelling, the engine turning craft called

These contemporary jewels feature Fabergé’s much-loved designs from quilted gold to pavé-set coloured gems, available in Treillage, Heritage, Rococo and Emotion collections, and can be engraved with a personal message or initials, for a bespoke gift.

There versatile and intricate bangles feature vibrant gemstones, sparkling diamonds and vivid guilloché enamel.

guilloché and hand-engraving, make up the

At the Jewellery Historian, we love those new

signature elements of this colourful and opulent

collections that you will definitely see us wearing

collection.

them in one of the public speakings we do or at

These signature Fabergé techniques are

one of the events we attend.

reinterpreted for an elegant and contemporary look.

Mesmerising opalescent hot enamel glistens on the curves of Fabergé’s iconic egg pendants,

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Four Leaf Clover Locket Pendant

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Open-set Bangle

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Ladybird Locket Pendant

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

Rose Gold I Love You Crossover Bangle

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

Yellow Gold Multi-coloured Emotion Open Bangle

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

Rococo Pave Diamond Rose Gold Bangle

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION

Treillage Multi-Coloured Rose Gold Bangle

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Hiver Impérial Page 61

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Hiver Impérial BOUCHERON Boucheron introduces Hiver Impérial, its

Alexander Kelch. Flocon Impérial is a

new collection of high jewelry inspired by the

modern-day vision of these historic creations

aura of the Far East’s vast stretches of snow

and imitates Nature with the perfect geometry

covered land.

of that tiny wonder of symmetry: the snow

When Boucheron opened a shop in

flake.

Moscow in 1897, it was the first French jeweler

For Flocon Impérial, Boucheron was

in the city. Its history is therefore closely tied to

drawn to the natural clarity of rock crystal,

imperial Russia, its Slavic heritage and endless

which has been one of its favorite materials

expanses. Boucheron brings you three main

since the 1980s. Polished to bring out the

themes from these regions: Nature, Couture

desired contrasts, it exhibits a snow flake’s

and Architecture.

most intricate patterns that are usually invisible

Lumière de Nuit depicts the ideal aesthetic of the North’s stunningly unique brilliant white polar landscape. Boucheron finds the mysterious side of nature in the polar

to the naked eye. The set diamonds viewed through the crystal seem to oat and reflect a unique light, giving this piece an abundance of amazing character.

night. Untamed, majestic, powerful – it is no

Flocon Impérial also follows the multiwear

match for humans. The Lumière de Nuit

tradition, with seven detachable parts: a 5.20

chapter captures this force in a huge snow

carat diamond ring, a pair of earrings, a fibula

flake, cascading spinels and a pack of

and hair accessories. With a full set, each piece

Animaux des Neiges (Snow Animals).

can be adapted to suit your mood and your

Flocon Impérial reveals the delicate

out t.

subtleties of a snow flake, enlarged to the scale of high jewelry.

The necklace features a fluid linked design and multiple clasps making it

Boucheron first began putting snow flakes on brooches in 1898. There are dainty lined

extremely lightweight and comfortable to wear.

branches and abstract depictions extended

Grand Nord features a cascade of spinels

with strings of diamonds. In 1906 and 1912,

with a centerpiece that becomes a brooch

Boucheron also created two stunning

with an 8.06 carat emerald-cut diamond.

necklaces for one of its best Russian customers, Barbara Kelch, the granddaughter of gold mines and railroad magnate Ivan Bazanov and wife of the multimillionaire

It is flanked by Animaux des Neiges (Snow Animals) laying on ice floes of precious stones: a 31.21 carat Burmese sapphire for Laïka the husky, a 13.49 carat aquamarine for Arctique

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the polar bear and a pear shape green

created by Boucheron. Alexandra wore it in

tourmaline of 7,28 carats for Foxy the fox, all

most of her of official photos, instead of the

under the watchful eye of Oulu the owl,

traditional kokoshnik headdress, which was

Ladoga the raccoon and Lyncas the lynx.

quite heavy.

An exceptional timepiece in the shape of

Baïkal is an imperial bodice front

Laika the husky, maliciously watches the time

adorned with more than 2000 Akoya pearls.

y through the rock crystal lake.

To ensure the maximum comfort of a

Femmes Boréales celebrates the strength and beauty of women in wintry climates, contemporary empresses and queens, wrapped in pearls and precious stones.

jeweler’s touch, the multiple strands are strung on silk thread and connected with aquamarines, moonstones and diamond slivers that tie together the set’s elegance and style. The studio created a ribbon of

Femmes Boréales harks back to the

aquamarines beads corseted on the back of

traditional dress and imperial jewelry sets

the necklace so that it can be adjusted as

lavishly embellished with pearls, diamonds

needed and lays perfectly on the neck.

and precious stones, that have been given modern air for contemporary queens.

A huge 78.33 carat oval Santa Maria aquamarine island echoes the crystal clear

The Baïkal bodice front with aquamarines

blue waters of the Baïkal lake. As an ode to

floating like blue islands represents the icy,

imperial jewels and dress, it is decorated with

pure and crystalline waters of the lake of the

pearls and pear shape diamonds set on

same name.

moonstones. The juxtaposition of pillowy

In 1858, pearls were the height of luxury and refinement. They could be worth more than diamonds. At the time, a pearl necklace was the most beautiful piece of jewelry you

white pearls and wintery icy blues gives the necklace an ultra-feminine blend of contrast and harmony with strings of diamond-set lace to accent the choker.

could give to a woman. Their radiance

Perles Australes and Nevesta epitomize

fascinated Frédéric Boucheron, who spent

the elegance and refinement of haute

over 10 years searching for the most stunning

couture. Perles Australes is classic Boucheron

mother-of-pearl to make an exceptional

with an ever-more creative interpretation. The

necklace of natural pearls for the love of his

pearl Pompon necklace is a brand new

life, Gabrielle Boucheron.

version of the twisted chain, this time in

At Boucheron, pearls are intertwined with

mother-of-pearl and diamonds.

countless love stories, like for the last Russian

Alternating baguette diamonds and

emperors. On the occasion of his marriage to

round diamonds creates a very graphic chain

Alix de Hesse-Darmstadt, granddaughter of

design, coupled with the Boucheron ring of

Queen Victoria, the future Tsar Nicolas II gave

light. Nevesta draws the eye to a stunning

his wife a delicate pearl and diamond crown

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FLOCON IMPÉRIAL Necklace set with a 5,20 ct E VVS1 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Earrings detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Ring detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FLOCON IMPÉRIAL Necklace set with a 5,20 ct E VVS1 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Brooch detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Brooch detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FLOCON IMPÉRIAL Necklace set with a 5,20 ct E VVS1 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FEUILLE Brooch set with a 0,55 ct oval diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Earrings set with rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

GIVRE Ring set with a 5,01 ct E VVS1 round diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BRANCHE Brooch set with ebene wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FLOCON Ring set with a 0,70 ct D VVS2 round diamond and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FLOCON Pendant set with a 0,75 ct E VVS2 round diamond and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

LAÏKA,LE HUSKY Ring set with a 31,21 ct burmese light greyish-blue antique cushion sapphire, grey spinels and sapphires, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

OULU, LA CHOUETTE Ring set with yellow sapphires and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

FOXY, LA RENARDE Ring set with a 7,28 ct green pear tourmaline and emeralds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

LAÏKA,LE HUSKY Timepiece in white gold, diamonds, sapphires, spinels, rock crystal and jade.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Page 99

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

GRAND NORD Ring set with rock crystal filled with black spinels, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

LISERET Ring set with a 6,03 ct D VVS2 emerald-cut diamond and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

GRAND NORD Necklace set with a 8,06 ct E VVS2 emerald-cut diamond, onyx and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

GRAND NORD Necklace set with a 8,06 ct E VVS2 emerald-cut diamond, onyx and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

GRAND NORD Necklace set with a 8,06 ct E VVS2 emerald-cut diamond, onyx and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

GRAND NORD Bracelet set with black spinels, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

LADOGA,LE RATON LAVEUR Ring set with black sapphires and wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

NŒUD Ring set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BAÏKAL Ring set with a 24,87 ct Santa Maria pear aquamarine and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

PERLE IMPÉRIALE Ring set with a 17 mm round South Sea cultured pearl, paved with diamonds and freshwater cultured pearls, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

DIAMANT IMPÉRIAL Ring set with a 3,55 ct E VVS2 pear diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

NEVESTA Necklace set with a 9,29 ct D VVS2 pear diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

JOYA Ring set with a 19,92 ct Ceylon sugar-loaf cabochon sapphire and diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BAÏKAL Necklace set with a 78,33 ct Santa Maria oval aquamarine, moonstones and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds and aquamarines, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BANQUISE Ring set with a 5,33 ct F VVS1 oval diamond and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

BAÏKAL Earrings set with one 12,08 ct Santa Maria pear aquamarine and one 11,74 ct Santa Maria pear aquamarine and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

POMPON KOKOCHNIK Necklace set with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.Necklace in the traditon of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

NUIT ETOILÉE Earrings set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

POMPON Earrings set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

POMPON Necklace set with Akoya cultured pearls and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

NUIT ETOILÉE Bracelet set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

NUIT ETOILÉE Ring set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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9.29 carat pear shape diamond clearly poised

domes in Rostov, glistening in the snow. The

to become the latest classic.

enchanting circle hangs from a Boucheron

L’Anneau d’Or (The Golden Ring) offers a panoramic view of the rooftops, cupolas and onion domes of Russia’s ancient princely towns. It is an ode to the imperial cities of Russia where the rooftops, cupolas and onion domes transform into a kaleidoscope of medallions. Boucheron also takes design elements from the Slavic Naryshkin Baroque architectural style of North-East Moscow, as

ring of light, the part of a chain with an invisible clasp that has various sizes of diamonds arranged on it to create a shifting light effect. The peak of the dome is crowned with a round 4.14 carat diamond. There are four different ways to wear the piece: as a long necklace, double strand or choker, then the medallion can be taken off and worn as a brooch.

seen in ultra-graphic necklaces, rings and

Boucheron has always been

earrings in colors inspired by the northern

experimenting with new materials. Rock

light on a winter’s day and the crystal-clear

crystal, Makrana marble from the same

night.

quarries used to build the Taj Mahal, sand

Rostov is a boldly inlaid vision of this captivating city’s countless gold and silver cupolas.

from the Thar Desert in Rajasthan for the Bleu de Jodhpur collection, and so on. For Hiver Impérial, Boucheron is bringing wood back to high jewelry. The design studio is taking this

In 1905, Boucheron began changing with

natural material to new heights after

the times by offering highly re ned pendants

conducting extensive research to give it the

and medallions that a new clientele could

quintessential silver patina of the wooden

wear during the day and at night to

buildings weathered by the cold and time in

accessorize their ball gowns. Many new skills

Russia’s Golden Ring. The Maison is extremely

had to be brought in to produce the enamel

familiar with this material. It was first used to

miniatures, gold pierced-work and carved

create small decorative objects including

scenery crafted on honeycomb or actual lace.

powder compacts, boxwood fans and

For Rostov, the design studio drew inspiration

cigarette cases. Alain Boucheron later made

from early 20th century geometric

jewelry with snakewood in the 1970s.

medallions, with openworked motifs that could be embellished with pearls and diamonds.

Kokoshnik recalls the striking domes of Russian architecture. Great arches of diamonds accentuate the deep intensity of

Rostov is an oversized medallion inlaid

the 7.54 carat Royal Blue Burmese sapphire

with wood and diamonds to represent a

and 10.98 carat oval-cut Burmese sapphire.

dome as seen from above. The studio used a

The rock crystal dome, on this necklace,

beautiful series of intricate cutouts to depict

encapsulates 20.31 carat of diamonds.

tiles superimposed on the roofs. They have a silvery hue reminiscent of the colors of the

The sleek lines of Marqueterie are based on characteristic Naryshkin Baroque shapes.

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KOKOCHNIK Ring set with a 10,98 ct Burmese oval sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

KOKOCHNIK Ring set with a 10,98 ct Burmese oval sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

KOKOCHNIK Necklace set with a 7,54 ct Burmese Royal Blue cushion sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

KOKOCHNIK Necklace set with a 7,54 ct Burmese Royal Blue cushion sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

MARQUETERIE Ring set with blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

MARQUETERIE Necklace set with grey buff top moonstones and buff top onyx, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

MARQUETERIE Timepiece in white gold, diamonds, buff top moonstones and buff top onyx.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

MARQUETERIE Bracelet set with blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

MARQUETERIE Necklace set with blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

YAROSLOV Necklace set with a 4,60 ct E VVS2 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

Earrings set with a 2,11 ct F VVS2 cushion diamond and a 2,09 ct F VVS2 cushion diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

DÔME GRAPHIQUE Earrings set with a 3,25 ct pear tanzanite and a 3,27 ct pear tanzanite, blue chalcedonies and Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

DÔME GRAPHIQUE Ring set with a 12,41 ct pear tanzanite, Akoya cultured pearls and a blue chalcedony, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

DÔME GRAPHIQUE Ring set with a 12,41 ct pear tanzanite, Akoya cultured pearls and a blue chalcedony, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

ROSTOV Earrings set with aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

ROSTOV Ring set with a 2,55 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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Boucheron has created versions in two color palettes. One is in shades of blue, blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds. The other is paved with buffed onyx, diamonds and gray moonstones buffed with astounding brilliance.

The geometric harmony of snow flakes, frozen waterfalls, wildlife with frost-covered fur, snowy rooftops... A high jewelry collection of diamonds, pearls and precious stones sparkling in the wintertime.

Maison Boucheron was founded in 1858

by Frédéric Boucheron and has continued to evolve ever since under the leadership of four generations of his direct descendants.

Boucheron was the first jeweler on Place Vendôme and its visionary designs have made the Maison a byword for excellence in jewelry, high jewelry and watchmaking. With its bold and free-spirited style, it is constantly creating the classics of tomorrow.

Boucheron now has more than 55 retail outlets around the world and is part of Kering Group, a world leader in the luxury, sport and lifestyle sectors.

We l c o m e t o B o u c h e r o n ’s w i n t e r wonderland.

Fo r f u r t h e r i n f o r m a t i o n v i s i t a BOUCHERON boutique or the official website at www.boucheron.com

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

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CARLO PALMIERO Jewels born out of dreams

Carlo Palmiero, founder of Palmiero

They are inspired to geometric shapes,

Jewellery Design, represents the artistic

nature, artistic references to the style of great

avant-garde per excellence in the high

20th Century painters... Genius, skill and

jewellery sector. Since the very beginning he

passion shine through each piece.

bucks the trend, constantly modifies the standards of classical jewellery by moving the attention from the centre to the whole object surface, by enlarging the shapes and by a d d i n g c o l o u r. H i s r i n g s a re re a l three-dimensional sculptures enriched by the unique and unrepeatable gemstone colour shades.

Creations by Carlo Palmiero go beyond design and find their completeness in the precious stones whose pureness and quality make them unique: white, black, cognac, blue, green, yellow and purple diamonds, sapphires that fade gently like blue, pink and yellow watercolours, royal topazes, tanzanites, rubellites, opals... they are precious timeless

A jewel can describe shapes and colours, communicate intense emotions, confine the

objects, characterized by a style that is the flawless union of past and present.

world and represent it, unleash the passion of the person who creates it, the person who donates it and the person who wears it. is is what a Palmiero’s jewel is, precious matter transformed into a work of art.

Could you tell us about the origin of your pas- sion for the jewellery art? I have always been a child with a great imagination. I used to spend hours assembling and disassembling objects, creating and molding

Palmiero’s jewels are unique and

tiny wax jewels. In the jewellery art I finally

inimitable objects, characterized by a refined,

found the way to give expression to what

plastic and unmistakable style. They are ideas

appeared to be my most natural gift : manual

translated into shapes and colours that show

skill. The opportunity I had to observe and

great experience and incredible creativity,

work with the greatest master goldsmiths of

they are recognizable at first glance.

Valenza contributed to arise my curiosity

Palmiero’s collections stem from a gold jewellery tradition which for years has produced a limited number of pieces,

towards jewellery. I thus started to grow a passion for this art, whose techniques and secrets I deeply wanted to learn about.

sometimes unique pieces, since anyone can

Which important role did Valenza play

enjoy the privilege of a very personal choice,

in your artistic education and career?

anywhere. It is a selection that can satisfy all

Of course, a great importance. When I arrived

needs, if choice is guided by taste, style and

in Valenza in the 60’s, I immediately remained

personality.

fascinated by the long artisanal history and

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tradition of the town. Here like nowhere else

but I believe in curiosity and in my “childish”

many master goldsmiths gathered together.

eyes creative artists never lose, even when

ere were laboratories at every corner. As a

they are 100 years old!

young boy, I was inevitably attracted by gold.

I remember that what fascinated me the most were the stories of the first master goldsmiths Vincenzo Moroset- ti and his apprentice Vincenzo Melchiorre. Since 1875 in Valenza, they gave life to one of the greatest goldsmith schools in Italy and in the world.

Who has never dreamt about shapes which resemble nature but in nature do not exist? Ensemble of images which at night become uncertain objects able to surprise us, leaving an impression of pleasantness at the awakening. Carlo Palmiero becomes the interpreter of those dreams and in his jewels

When were the first jewels that bear your name created? The first jewels were

makes the allure perceived during oneiric visions tangible.

realized in the small laboratory I decided to

“Lotus”

open in the 70’s , in which I used to give birth to objects characterized by small dimensions

Precious jewels whose soft and delicate

but already strong personality. A er some

shapes are inspired by lotus flowers leaves.

years, in 1979, I founded Palmiero Jewellery

The objets plasticity and three-dimensionality,

Design. Nowadays the company is an

colour shades and attention to detail once

a v a n t - g a rd e l a b o rat o r y f o r j e w e l l e r y

again suggest the creators’ hand.

manufacture, how do you succeed in keeping

“Acanto”

alive the old goldsmith tradition?

The new laboratory-atelier was opened in Valenza in 2007, the high technology of the laboratory makes us one of the forefront companies in the jewel manufacture. At the same time, it remains a large artisanal laboratory, in which manual skill is exalted and expressed through the ability of highly qualified goldsmiths and stone-setters.

Thanks to them the brand appears in the most prestigious and select boutiques of the world.

In flower language, the acanthus represents prestige and material wealth. Its beauty was already recognized during the Classical period, when the acanthus leaf was used in architecture as ornament made of stone, marble or wood or used to embellish eminent personalities’ clothes. Carlo Palmiero knows its elegance, and by taking inspiration from ancient ideals of aesthetics, he chooses the acanthus as new protagonist of his Collection.

“Colibri”

What’s inspiration according to Carlo Palmiero? Inspiration is a feeling difficult to

Small dreamy bird, fragments of rainbow,

explain. It could be a flower, a petal, a dew

precious stone and flower converted into

drop on a blade of glass, a particular

animal... the hummingbird has attracted

architecture, a piece of cloth seen during a

many and it has been described in different

fashion show... I do not believe in a “muse”,

ways. In Palmiero’s Collection, it is depicted in

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Lotus Flowers: rings in white and black diamonds and coloured sapphires on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Lotus Flower: ring in white and coloured diamonds and sapphires on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Acanto Collection: ring and earrings in white and coloured diamonds on white gold.

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a scene which seems to be directly taken

Ti n y i s t h e n e w j e w e l l e r y w at c h

from an oneiric vision. Lightness and magic to

belonging to the Luxury Collection, fully set in

wear.

the highest quality white diamonds. Swiss movement, Italian design and manufacture,

Masterpieces : captured stones

squared dial, distinct dimensions,

A leaf goblet in degraded diamond pavé setting surrounds, sustains and beautifies the

harmonious proportions for a timeless splendor and elegance.

precious central stone. An intense magnificent tanzanite is framed with the most precious white diamonds.

At the Jewellery Historian we are always honored and proud to showcase the exceptional work of one of the most talented Italian artists, Carlo Palmiero, an artist we

“Soft flowers” A multitude of tiny flowers sweetly covers

appreciate a lot.

the hand of the person who wears it and

You can also read the issue 15 of the

gently follows the movements. Goldsmith

Jewellery Historian and discover past work

techniques and elegance combine and give

and collections.

life to important rings of so and sublime shapes.

“Alter” by Palmiero : Three dials in One Following months of research and design, Carlo Palmiero has given life to Alter. is unique jewellery watch, whose technique is patented, has been completely manufactured inside the Italian firm’s atelier and is equipped with Swiss movement. It shows top creativity, top quality and top manufacture of Made in Italy. Watches are manufactured in limited edition: fifty pieces per colour. Alter means “changing”. Pyramidal facets turn alternately so that the precious time-piece changes into three different “faces”: a shaded pink sapphire dial, an astonishing white diamond dial and a gold-diamond numbered dial. For all occasions, a dream to wear...

Tiny : luxury collection

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Tiny Watch, Luxury Edition: jewellery watch fully set in white diamonds on yellow gold

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Acanto collection: necklace in white diamonds and semiprecious stones on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Acanto collection: earrings and ring in white diamonds on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Hummingbird (Colibri) Necklace in white diamonds, sapphires, semiprecious stones and chalcedony on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Hummingbird (Colibri) Earrings and ring in white diamonds, sapphires, semiprecious stones and chalcedony on white gold.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Captured Stones: ring in white and coloured diamonds and rubellite on white gold

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Alter Watch Pink: jewellery watch in white diamonds and pink sapphires on rose gold

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Captured Stones: ring in white diamonds and tanzanite on white gold

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Alter Watch Blue: jewellery watch in white diamonds and blue sapphires on white gold

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Soft Flower Collection: ring in white and coloured diamonds on white gold

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS

Soft Flower Collection: ring in white diamonds and rubies on white gold

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 72 Formerly From The Collection Of Mrs. Severance Millikin, Cleveland, Ohio Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, France Designed as a bird, centering an oval-shaped cabochon emerald, set with round diamonds, accented by round and cabochon rubies, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 75450, with French assay and maker's marks; circa 1957.

Estimate $10/15,000 “I love to use birds and flowers as accessories during the day. This brooch reminds me of my grandmother, Estée.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

FINE JEWELS AT SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK Aerin Lauder Selects Day & Night Looks From the 300+ Jewels on Offer, Including Pieces from Her Personal Collection Sold to Benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation® Sotheby’s is pleased to present the first

Le Jour Parfum (for daytime) and Tuberose Le

major jewelry auction of the fall season in New

Soir Parfum (for nighttime), Lauder is

York on 17 October 2017. Our Fine Jewels

partnering with Sotheby’s to explore this

sale features a variety of vintage and

inescapable dichotomy in the realms of both

contemporary pieces from renowned makers

fragrance and jewelry by selecting and

such as Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and

commenting on her favorite pieces for day

Cartier, important mid-century designs from

and for night.

Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin and Marianne Ostier, and an impressive array of classic white diamond and colored stone rings in a variety of shapes and sizes.

With more than 300 jewels on offer, carrying estimates starting from $3,000 up to $200,000, the Fine Jewels auction provides opportunities for both new and established collectors to acquire treasures for every style and occasion. All works from the sale will be on public exhibition in our York Avenue galleries from 13 – 17 October, and we welcome visitors to view and try on the entire selection of jewels.

JEWELS FROM THE COLLECTION OF AERIN LAUDER SOLD TO BENEFIT THE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATION® In December 2012, Sotheby’s was honored to offer a collection of magnificent jewels from the collections of Estée Lauder and Evelyn H. Lauder. Sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF), the highest-rated breast cancer organization in the country, the auction culminated in the sale of an exquisite Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring from the collection of Evelyn H. Lauder, BCRF founder, which achieved a spectacular $8.6 million to support research.

AERIN LAUDER & SOTHEBY’S JEWELS

Almost five years after this auction, at

Many of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer’s

Sotheby’s the Lauder legacy continues by

earliest memories are those of her

presenting jewels from the collection of Aerin

grandmother Estée, specifically in terms of her

Lauder, with proceeds benefiting the BCRF. A

scent and her jewelry. Estée’s affinity for bold

bold, geometric ring by David Webb

statement jewels and the importance of

highlighted by rock crystal accented with

updating one’s look for daytime and evening

diamonds presents a playful option for

is one that inspired Aerin as she launched her

daytime, while a bombé styled ring studded

eponymous brand in 2012, after two decades

with diamonds and textured gold by Van Cleef

of working in various divisions of Estée Lauder

& Arpels makes for a glamorous evening

Inc.

addition.

As she prepares to debut the new AERIN

Tuberose Collection, which features Tuberose Page 182

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 11 Property From A Distinguished Private Collection, New York, Sold To Benefit Charitable Initiatives Gem-Set and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, France Of floral design, centering a round cabochon ruby, accented by rubies, sapphires and emeralds, surrounded by numerous round diamonds, size 6¾, signed VCA, Made in France, numbered NY 5K912-1, with French assay and workshop marks.

Estimate $5/7,000 “There is nothing more classic than a great gold ring.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 50 Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, Cartier, France Composed of a line of elephant motifs set with round diamonds, accented by emerald-set eyes, length 7½ inches, signed Cartier, numbered 648789, with French assay and maker's mark. With signed box.

Estimate $40/60,000 “Safari-inspired style. I love the idea of adding a little animal charm to your day.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 77 Pair of Coral Earclips, David Webb Each set with coral beads accented by gold ropetwist, signed Webb.

Estimate $8/12,000 “These coral earrings feel so modern and easy to wear.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 186 Property From The Estate Of Charlotte Garson, Atlanta, Georgia Gold and Diamond Necklace and Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, France In tubogas style, composed of flexible gold links, embellished with a buckle motif set with round diamonds, total gross weight approximately 136 dwts, necklace length 15 inches and bracelet length 6¾ inches, signed VCA, Made in France, numbered NY 58811 and NY 58812 respectively, with French assay and workshop marks.

Estimate $8/12,000 “This diamond necklace and bracelet pair would complete any look.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 129 Property From An Estate, California Gold and Ruby Bracelet, Boucheron, France Composed of interwoven textured and polished gold, the front set with round rubies and completed by a gold tassel, gross weight approximately 69 dwts, length 6¾ inches, signed Boucheron, with French assay and partial workshop marks.

Estimate $4/6,000 “I love how this gold and ruby Boucheron bracelet almost feels like a ribbon.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 182 Property From The Estate Of Charlotte Garson, Atlanta, Georgia Pair of Coral and Diamond Earclips, David Webb Composed of two fluted carved coral half-hoops, lined with round diamonds, signed Webb.

Estimate $6/8,000 “I love coral David Webb pieces. They represent timeless elegance and go perfectly with white or black fashion.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 36 Property From The Estate Of Virginia Ridder Pair of Cultured Pearl and Diamond Earclips, David Webb Set with two cultured pearls measuring approximately 12.0 mm each, accented by round diamonds, signed Webb.

Estimate $6/8,000 “I would wear these David Webb earrings for a fun night out.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 154 Property From An Estate, California Gold and Diamond 'Cheveux d'Ange' Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, France The gold links of chevron design gathered at the side in a bow set with round diamonds, gross weight approximately 61 dwts, length 18 inches, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, made in France, numbered 34335, with partial French workshop marks; circa 1960.

Estimate $10/15,000 “A diamond and gold bow wonderfully complements a cocktail dress.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 2 Property From A New York Estate Pair of Diamond Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels Of cluster design, set with round diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered N.Y. 7698. With signed box.

Estimate $15/20,000 “A great pair of diamond earrings is a timeless choice for evening.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 210 Property Of An Important Private Collector Diamond Clip-Brooch Of floral design, the center set with a round diamond, the petals pavé-set with smaller round diamonds, one diamond missing.

Estimate $8/12,000 “This diamond rose brooch is beautiful worn on a dress, sweater or blazer.”

Very Rare and Important 13.26 carat Ruby and Diamond Ring, Designed and Mounted by BHAGAT

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 156 Property From An Estate, California Gold and Diamond Purse, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Two-Color Gold Clutch The purse of woven design, composed of gold mesh and a chain, the front closure embellished with round diamonds, opening to reveal a mirror, gross weight approximately 138 dwts, signed Van Cleef et Arpels, numbered 70216 and 2950, with French assay and workshop marks; the clutch of similar design, composed of two-color gold, gross weight approximately 64 dwts, with Italian registry mark.

Estimate $6/8,000 “This Van Cleef gold evening bag is the ultimate luxurious accessory for evening.”

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 296 From The Collection Of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, Sold To Benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation Gold and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels Of bombé form, centering three rows of round diamonds, accented by gold ropework and foliate motifs further set with round diamonds, gross weight approximately 12 dwts, size 5½, signed VCA, numbered 43097; circa 1970.

Estimate $8/12,000

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION

Lot 295 From The Collection Of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, Sold To Benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation Gold, Rock Crystal and Diamond Ring, David Webb Centering a triangle-shaped rock crystal, accented by baguette and triangle-shaped diamonds, size 5¾.

Estimate $4/6,000

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

WALLACE CHAN Persistence in Innovation

Wallace Chan will give in October a talk at Harvard University and take part in a dialogue on jewelry creation with museum curators. He will also exhibit in TETAF New York with new pieces. Recognized as a top jewelry artist and innovator, we are honored to feature Wallace Chan’s one-of-a-kind latest creations, creations that reflect his Zen philosophy and reveal unique craftsmanship invented by his persistence in innovation.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Jewelry creator Wallace Chan will give a

Fall. As the only Chinese jewelry artist at the

talk at Harvard University in October at the

fair, he will showcase approximately 20

invitation of Harvard Museums of Science and

jewelry creations and a titanium sculpture.

Culture. Co-hosted with the Museum of Fine

Wallace Chan – The Creator

Arts, Boston, the event, titled “The Art and Artistry of Wallace Chan,” will be chaired by

In 1973, Wallace Chan became a

Jane Pickering, Executive Director of Harvard

gemstone-carving apprentice and started his

Museums of Science and Culture. Following

journey of creation which has continued for

the presentation, Wallace Chan will engage in

over 40 years. A high level of curiosity and a

a dialogue on gemstones, creation, and the

strong thirst for knowledge have been

art of jewelry with Dr. Raquel Alonso-Perez,

behind his constant experiments in gemstone

Curator of the Mineralogical and Geological

cutting, carving, setting, metallurgy,

Museum, Harvard University, and Dr. Emily

mechanical engineering, and metal

Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B.

soldering. Navigating through numerous

Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of

twists and turns, he strives for the ultimate

Fine Arts, Boston. The audience will include

perfection in his creations. As an

the members of the Fashion Council of the

exc e p t i o n a l l y p e rc e p t i v e p e r s o n , h e

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, as well as

embraces the experiences and energy

faculty members and students at Harvard.

coming from interacting with materials and

Wallace Chan is known internationally for his exceptional work as a jewelry artist and innovator. Gemstones have been the focus of his life for over forty years, since becoming a carving apprentice at the age of sixteen. His innovations have included the use of titanium

incorporates them in the fine details of his pieces. As a creator, he infuses his passion, dreams, and philosophies in each of his pieces which elicit intense visual aesthetic perceptions and evoke strong emotional responses in viewers.

in jewelry creation, the invention of a

Over the long history of jewelry making,

patented jadeite thinning and

Wa l l a c e C h a n h a s s t o o d o u t w i t h

luminosity-enhancing technology, and the

unconventional creations to mark his

use of unique gemstone settings without

uniqueness. After 8 years of independent

metal claws. In this presentation, Wallace

research, he discovered and mastered the

Chan will share the philosophies, inspirations,

technology to use titanium, a light-weight but

emotions, and processes behind his artwork.

strong metal, in jewelry. He invented the

This is Wallace Chan’s latest talk after his previous speeches at Cooper Hewitt Museum (New York), V&A Museum (London), and Central Saint Martins (London).

jadeite thinning and luminosity-enhancing technology and received a patent for it. His unique Wallace Cut, an illusionary carving technique, is truly extraordinary. Innovation has been a key attribute in everything

After the talk, Wallace Chan will exhibit at

Wa l l a c e C h a n d o e s , f ro m m at e r i a l s ,

The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) New York

craftsmanship, and tools, to styles of creation,

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Sea of Joy Brooch / Sculpture Crystal/Opal, Yellow Diamond, Citrine, Lapis Lazuli, Opal, Onyx, Pink Sapphire, Tsavorite Garnet, Sapphire, Diamond, Titanium Page 200

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Sea of Joy Brooch / Sculpture Crystal/Opal, Yellow Diamond, Citrine, Lapis Lazuli, Opal, Onyx, Pink Sapphire, Tsavorite Garnet, Sapphire, Diamond, Titanium Page 201

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 203

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

subject matters, exploration of symbolic

three-dimensional intaglio creates mysterious

connotations, and ways of exhibition

illusions on a transparent stone and

presentation. Constant innovation has put

established Wallace Chan’s status as a master

him at the forefront of the jewelry world of

sculptor.

our time.

Patented Jade Technique

In recent years, Wallace Chan has been featured extensively in international media.

He is also the first Chinese jewelry artist to showcase his creations at several international exhibitions: Masterpiece London (2017 & 2016), TEFAF (2017 & 2016, Maastricht & New York), and Biennale des Antiquaires (2012 & 2014, Paris). In 2015, his very first illustrated monograph was published by Rizzoli. In the same year, he was invited by Christie’s to hold a solo exhibition at the HKCEC. He was invited to deliver talks at Central Saint Martins (2017, London), the V&A Museum (2016, London), and the Cooper Hewitt Museum (2015, New York).

Jade has always been highly valued by the Chinese. With a smooth and glossy texture, jade evokes feelings of nostalgia.

However, applying jade in contemporary jewelry design calls for a modern take on it.

Wallace Chan’s profound knowledge of light and jade enabled him to invent the jade refining and brightening technique to send light racing and pulsating along jade surfaces. Green refractions then magnify each other and sharpen the deep green colors.

This technique received a patent of invention in 2002.

Titanium Mastery

Wallace Chan praises life and nature

Titanium is a sought-after material for

through the charm of gemstones with

modern technology. It is strong, light,

limitless imagination and creative talent. He is

hypoallergenic and colorful. In traditional

recognized as a top jewelry creator, artist and

jewelry pieces, gold or platinum is often used

innovator.

to set gemstones. But the weight of titanium is only 1/5 of that of gold with the same

The Wallace Chan Innovations

volume. Wallace Chan spent 8 years on the

Wallace Cut

research of titanium before mastering it in

The Wallace Cut was invented in 1987 by Wallace Chan. It is an illusionary carving technique based on reverse thinking, combined with precise calculation, gem faceting, and 360-degree intaglio, to create multiple reflections. Wallace Chan also invented tools for it and had to complete the carving process in water to prevent damage

jewelry creation. Using titanium to set gemstones means the jewelry creation is light and comfortable to wear. Moreover, the use and visibility of metal in between stones could be minimized. At Baselworld 2007, Wallace Chan turned a new page in the world of haute joaillerie with his “sculptural art creations that are wearable”.

to the stone by dissipating heat generated by the modified dental drill. This highly original

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 205

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Gemstone-setting-gemstone Technique

WALLACE CHAN AT TETAF NEW YORK

In traditional jewelry making techniques,

Jewelry creator Wallace Chan this

metal claws are often used to set gemstones.

autumn is also returning to the renowned

However, Wallace Chan always tries to

TEFAF New York Fall to showcase his highly

minimize the use of metal in order to reveal

original and artistic jewelry and art creations.

the stone’s colors, brilliance and charm to the

More than 20 pieces of jewelry and 1 titanium

greatest extent possible. Following this line of

sculpture will be exhibited, most of which are

thought, he invented the technique to set

on show for the first time in New York. With

one gemstone with another: “diamond claw

the fair taking place at the Park Avenue

setting method” and “inner mortise and

Armory between October 27 and November

tenon setting method”. The former allows

1, its impressive offerings will draw in

diamonds and other gemstones to function

prestigious collectors, experts, curators, and

as claws to secure gemstones in place. The

art lovers from around the world.

latter is a method inspired by the Ming-style furniture (15-17 BC), famous for their mortise

TEFAF New York Fall

and tenon joints. Gemstones are given

In 2016, with years of successful

special cuts to form mortise and tenon joints

experience at Maastricht, TEFAF launched its

so they could fit perfectly without the use of

first American edition of the fair in New York

metal claws.

to present artworks spanning over 7,000 of art history. The second edition of TEFAF New

Secret Abyss

York Fall will run from October 27 to

The setting of this creation is magical and

November 1 at the famous Park Avenue

mysterious and took ten years from concept

Armory, with the VIP Preview and Opening

to completion. Through a 6.5mm opening,

Night Reception taking place on the 27th.

Wallace Chan drilled and polished a tunnel of 42x7mm inside the rutilated quartz before setting 1111 emeralds to form the auspicious cloud pattern. When you look at it, it is like a secret abyss with gleaming, meandering clouds.

The Park Avenue Armory is a historic brick building completed in 1880 and covers 55,000-square-foot on the Upper East Side, providing a platform for creativity across all art forms. This 136-year-old former home of the Seventh Regiment is now a

From drilling, polishing, to setting, the

groundbreaking not-for-profit art and cultural

entire creation process required

institution. In 2000, it was listed among the

extraordinary focus and determination,

“100 Most Endangered Historic Sites in the

similar to what a magician needs to unlock

World” by the World Monuments Fund.

and free himself from a water tank. Every single movement has to be done with total

TEFAF (The European Fine Art Foundation)

concentration while holding the breath, without any lapse.

TEFAF is the world’s most prestigious art fair. It is the premier destination for experts

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 207

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 208

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 209

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

from the world’s best museums such as

composed with colorful stones and body is

Musée du Louvre, Metropolitan Museum of

made from eye-catching opal reflected

Art and the British Museum when it comes to

through crystal. The bubbles weightlessly

acquiring artworks. It is also a must-see event

float in the air, dancing freely, and rising

for the most elusive private collectors.

beyond the material realm. Swimming

In keeping with its core values of Excellence, Expertise, and Elegance, TEFAF

contently in the rising ocean spiral, the fish lives out eternal joy beyond reality.

selects exhibitors against strict criteria and

Th e Wa v e s ӕ Tra n s f o r m a b l e B ro o c h ,

meticulously examines all the artworks. The

Necklace, Bracelet

vetting committee is made up of 175 international experts in 29 different categories. The objects exhibited represent over 7,000 years of art history from the classical period to the 20th century in 9 sections: Antiques, Classical Antiquities, Curated, Design, Haute Joaillerie, Modern,

“One little movement and the world moves. The air moves across my ears and I hear it -- the little butterfly -- I hear its movements. It makes waves every time it flaps wings. I feel changes. I hear its wings dancing with the beams of the sun.

Paintings, Paper and Showcase.

Is it real? Or is it just my imagination?”

New creations : Hightlights

The seemingly singular creation can transform into 8 styles, from an ornate brooch

Sea of JoyӕBrooch / Sculpture

to an elegant necklace or a simple, delicate

Blue titanium waves swirl around a

bracelet. The tsavorite garnet forming the

natural formed crystal mountain; exquisitely

butterfly’s body can be detached from the

placed colored sapphires accentuate the

wings to compose the dynamic and playful

liquid’s movement. As the water twists, the

variations to bring delightful surprises.

fish ascends into the sky, defying nature.

The multi-dimensional amethyst wings

Carried by air, the sea dwelling creature

have been acutely carved with exquisite

encounters a new and unusual situation. The

craftsmanship. The jewel captures a butterfly

fish gains a new perspective of the universe

in motion: fluttering in the sky, the wings

beyond its reality. For a fish above the ocean,

come in contact with the wind and glisten

the illusion of reality would be transformed;

under the sunlight. The fluid curves of the

prior existence would have been entirely

wings look like water with waves generated

below the surface of the sea, altered by the

by the creature’s gestures. These waves also

movement of the waves and distorted by the

symbolize sound from the movement,

magnification of water—what one perceives is

surrounding the body like a piece of music.

not always the truth.

Diamonds are set between the titanium

Removable from the sculptural base, the

and amethyst, altering light through the

fish becomes a brooch. The delicate fins are

translucent gemstone. The interaction of light

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Wonders of Life Earrings (detail) Diamond 2pcs 4.02ct and DIF Diamond 2 pcs 1.49ct, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Emerald, Crystal, Tsavorite Garnet and Titanium Page 211

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

playing off of the gemstones creates

will stay stable without drilling any hole

reflections that add a new perception of

through the pink sapphire, ensuring the

depth. Around the wings’ edges, diamonds

gemstone stays intact.

a re s e t o n t i t a n i u m , a d d i n g f u rt h e r dimensionality as the butterfly glides through the air.

Culminating at the apex of the earring, the white diamond flower blooms. The creator was inspired by the neurons joining, resulting in the brilliant floral structure

Wonders of LifeӕEarrings Originating from a pinecone—fruit from one of the world’s most ancient trees—the seeds of life blossom into flowers.

symbolizing life and hope. A heart-shaped pink sapphire is set at the base of the petals unifying the flower and its roots, representing growth and transformation, as well as the

A yellow diamond-encrusted orb is

heart’s aspirations. Three elements of color,

contained within a crystal realm, out of

light, and shape add to the energetic

physical reach, yet appears as a bright

composition.

energy. To access the object of our curiosity, the viewer sees beyond the transparent boundary, similar to our unconsciousness

Music on My MindӕParure: Necklace, Earrings, Ring

merging with the universe.

Th e a e s t h e t i c s o f t h e j e w e l r y i s

The tsavorite garnets allude to neurons meeting to form synapses in our brains, connections interacting in a complementary way to create a complex network that forms

comparable to the visual poetry of musical notation, such as an ornamental documentation of an instrumental soloist’s freestyle melody.

the conscious mind. Our minds take

Lights, colors and shapes twist together

inspirations from our surroundings and live in

to resemble an exquisite dance to a

harmony with the interconnected universe.

magnificent tune. Rhythmic light and color

The overlapping connections are similar to

are reminiscent of orchestral musical

how tree roots intertwine and share common

notation. Together they compose a combined

nutrients from the soil. The green garnets are

act of glamour and classical elegance.

set through the creator’s choice of purple titanium, magnifying the intricate attention to detail as well as the vivid color of the gems.

The link between the gems also suggests a brain structure, with neurons communicating with one another. They are

A pink sapphire links the plant stem and

self-sufficient entities that closely interact and

roots to the flower head. The gem is set in an

form strong bonds between similar cells. The

unusual way through the creator’s meticulous

meandering titanium and stones turn the

craftsmanship. One pair of baguette-cut

invisible consciousness into a solid material

white diamonds are used as prongs to set the

arrangement of the brain processing a song.

pink sapphire through tension. Careful calculation is required to guarantee the gem

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

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Lapis lazuli and rare patterned opal are

m a g n i fic e n t , m o u n t a i n o u s l a n d s c a p e

set inside the crystals to generate diverse

contrasted by warm colors of vivid pink and

layers of sparking blues and greens that

reds that heat up the icy architecture. The

contrast the vibrant red rubies. The ruby

pink sapphires’ gentle color highlights the

becomes the protagonist in the performance

dramatic red of the ruby while the interaction

with the support of the opals; the finest

of light dancing through the stones enhances

materials are used to showcase the brilliance

the piece.

of the rubies.

The structural forms of the ring mimic

Ancient Chinese philosopher, Laozi, once

ruby’s interior crystal structures which can

proclaimed: “The Great Image is without

only be seen through a microscope. The

form.” The supreme beauty shall be abstract

creator reconstructed the inner world of the

and eternally changing; it will reject

gemstone and brought it to the exterior

restrictions and specificity, therefore

realm. The crystallized pointed contours

e n c o m p a s s i n g a l l . Th i s s t re s s e s t h e

convey an aura of mystery and grandeur,

importance of concept within creation and it

signifying the amalgamation of ideas and

merges the heavens, humanity and earth and

concepts into concrete creations. Detailed

becomes a construction embodying the spirit

layering of thin titanium creates a solid

of everything.

structure of bridging geometric shapes that constitute the ring band.

Ruby CastleӕRing Harmonious colors, geometric forms and light poetically merge together in the meticulously constructed Ruby Castle—a dream castle inspired by the mysterious, microscopic world of nature.

This design is a combination of memories connecting and transforming one another. This abstract Ruby Castle is a collective representation of the creator’s experiences of nature, culture and the microscopic world.

Rubies are an emblem of good fortune, courage and vitality. Associated with blood and the heart, the red stone is symbolic of love and is regarded as the queen of all gems. Ancient soldiers believed in the invincible power of ruby and had the jewel set in their skin and armor as a ritual of empowerment.

Wallace Chan | Harvard University talk Date: Tuesday October 24 Time: 7.30-9.30pm Venue:Geological Lecture Hall, 24 Oxford Street

The creator was attracted to the ruby’s marvelous form. By uniting imagination and observation, he was inspired to use pink

Harvard Museum of Natural History https://hmnh.harvard.edu/home

sapphires to compose a glacier-like palace.

The structure transports the viewer to a

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Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Wonders of Life Earrings (detail) Diamond 2pcs 4.02ct and DIF Diamond 2 pcs 1.49ct, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Emerald, Crystal, Tsavorite Garnet and Titanium Page 215

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

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Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Wonders of Life Earrings (detail) Diamond 2pcs 4.02ct and DIF Diamond 2 pcs 1.49ct, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Emerald, Crystal, Tsavorite Garnet and Titanium Page 217

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Music on My Mind Parure: Necklace, Earrings, Ring Necklace: Oval-shaped Ruby 7pcs 56.234ct, Earrings: Oval-shaped Ruby 2pcs 13.114ct, Ring: Oval-shaped Ruby 1pc 8.19ct Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Crystal/Lapis Lazuli/Opal and Titanium Page 218

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

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Wallace Chan will exhibit at TEFAF New York in October with new creations The Waves - Transformable Brooch/Necklace/Bracelet This is a piece of multi-wear jewelry with breakthrough designs. With the possibility of being transformed into in 8 d i f f e re n t s t y l e s, f ro m a luxurious and dressy brooch and necklace to a simple and elegant bracelet, its versatility is a delightful surprise. The beautiful butterfly features hand-carved amethyst wings and a pear-shaped tsavorite garnet body. The wave-like scrolls on the wings’ edges are to show the imperceptible air and sound waves generated by the flapping of the butterfly’s wings.

S e a o f Joy Brooch/Sculpture This brooch composes the body of the fish with a piece of colorful opal. On top of the sparkling opal, translucent crystal is set and reflects the gemstone’s magical glow. This piece is full of stunning and elaborate details. The eyes of the fish alone contain layers of exquisitely carved crystal and gemstones. The fish is swimming contently as if it is living in eternal joy. The brooch, together with its base made of raw crystal and titanium, form one harmonious piece of visual artwork.

Ruby Castle - Ring Inspired by the mysterious m i c ro s c o p i c w o rl d o f nature found inside a gemstone, the creator engaged in castle-building on a mini scale to reveal the gem’s inner beauty with an unusual construction. In a coordinated red color scheme, pink sapphires are set in a geometric and rhythmic form to express meticulous layers an enigmatic dream castle comes alive.

Jewelry creator Wallace Chan is returning to the renowned TEFAF New York Fall to showcase his highly original and artistic jewelry and art creations. More than 20 pieces of jewelry and 1 titanium sculpture will be exhibited, most of which are on show for the first time in New York. With the fair taking place at the Park Avenue Armory between October 27 and November 1, its impressive offerings will draw in prestigious collectors, experts, curators, and art lovers from around the world.

TEFAF is the world’s most prestigious art fair. It is the premier des tination for experts from the world’s best museums such as Musée du Louvre, Metropolitan Museum of Art and the British Museum when it comes to acquiring artworks.

It is also a must-see event for the most elusive private collectors.

In 2016, with years of successful experience at Maastricht, TEFAF launched its first American edition of the fair in New York to present artworks spanning over 7,000 of art history. The second edition of TEFAF New York Fall will run from October 27 to November 1 at the famous Park Avenue A r m o r y, w i t h t h e V I P Preview and Opening Night Reception taking place on the 27th.

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Wonders of Life - Earrings The creator was inspired by the neurons joining, resulting in the brilliant floral structure symbolizing life and hope. A yellow diamond-encrusted orb is contained within a crystal realm to symbolize the seeds of life blossom into flowers. A heart-shaped pink sapphire is set at the base of the petals unifying the flower and its roots, representing growth and transformation, as well as the heart’s aspirations. Three elements of color, light, and shape add to the energetic composition.

Music on My Mind Parure: Necklace, Earrings & Ring The parure features a set of 10 extremely rare Burmese rubies totalling 77.538 carats.

With diamonds, lapis lazuli, crystal, and opal set alongside the rubies, a symphonic movement involving light, colors, and shapes is composed.

Lapis lazuli and opal slices are set inside the crystals to generate diverse layers of elusive blue, contrasting the rich red color of rubies. Light and colors interact and dance like musical notes to make up a piece of unique and poetically written ornamental passage.

Exhibition Details VIP Preview: October 27 (14:00-21:00) Public Days: October 28, 30 & 31 (12:00 – 20:00) October 29 & November 1(12:00 – 18:00) Venue: Park Avenue Armory, 643 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10065 Wallace Chan Stand: 36 https://www.tefaf.com/fairs/tefaf-new-york-fall www.armoryonpark.org

All photos courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE

Ruby Castle Ring Hexagonal-shaped Ruby 17.58ct, Pink Sapphire, Titanium Page 222

Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Vivien

The Collection of Vivien Leigh Page 223

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

THE VIVIEN LEIGH COLLECTION AT SOTHEBY’S Hollywood icon and incandescent star of

Harry Dalmeny, Sotheby’s UK Chairman,

one of the most beloved films of all time,

commented: “This is our chance to discover

Vivien Leigh (1913-1967) captured hearts and

the real, and unexpected, Vivien Leigh. We’re

minds with her fiery, luminous performance as

all guilty of confusing our favourite actresses

Scarlett O’Hara in Gone with the Wind in 1939.

with the heroines they portray, of blurring

Her legendary status in the pantheon of

Vivien’s identity with that of Scarlett O’Hara or

all-time greats was assured when she secured

Blanche DuBois. But, behind the guise of the

what perhaps remains to this day the most

most glamorous and talked-about woman of

coveted role in cinema history. Our perception

her age we find a fine art collector, patron,

of such legends is often imperceptibly

even a book worm, who was the intellectual

entwined with the myths they come to

equal of the literati, artists and aesthetes she

embody. This September, a spotlight will

counted among her coterie. Her private

reveal the inner person few people really

collection does not disappoint. Vivien

knew, in effect Vivien’s private life, when

approached the decoration of her homes as if

Sotheby’s London brings to auction The Vivien

she were designing a set, incorporating

Leigh Collection.

influences and inspiration from a life spent on

Passed down through Vivien’s family, the collection comprises paintings, jewellery, couture, books, furniture, porcelain, objets d’art and further items celebrating all aspects of her life, from the pre-war years in London, to Hollywood and beyond, up to her death in 1967. Myriad pieces drawn from the city and country homes Vivien shared with her

screen and on stage. These houses were an extension of the theatrical space, with medieval Notley Abbey looking positively Shakespearean. Fifty years on from her death, this sale opens the door into Vivien’s private world, allowing us a privileged and fascinating glimpse into a world that otherwise only her closest friends could ever have known.”

husband Laurence Olivier will give a new

In total, approximately 250 lots will be

perspective on Vivien, from her appreciation

offered for sale at Sotheby’s in London on 26

of art and patronage of Modern British artists,

September 2017, with estimates ranging from

to her passion for books and fondness for

£100 to £100,000.

entertaining and interior design.

Among the items on sale are Vivien

Vivien Leigh’s family commented: “We

Leigh’s personal copy of Gone with the Wind

hope people take as much pleasure from this

given to her by the author Margaret Mitchell

collection as our grandparents, parents and

(estimate £5,000–7,000). The quest to find an

families have done.”

actress to play Scarlett O’Hara is one of the

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

most enduring stories enshrined in the annals

with securing Vivien with the role of Scarlett

of Hollywood. Margaret Mitchell’s novel,

O’Hara (est. £400–600) is also on sale.

winner of the 1937 Pulitzer Prize, was a best-seller in every sense, not only selling in staggering numbers, but striking a chord with female readers who fancied themselves as Scarlett. Among these fans was Vivien, one of the book’s earliest readers: “From the moment I read [it], I was fascinated by the lovely wayward, tempestuous Scarlett. I felt that I loved and understood her, almost as though I had known her in the flesh. When I heard that the book was to filmed in Hollywood early in 1939, I longed to play the part.”

After a lengthy nationwide search for Scarlett, costing over $50,000, speculation about who would play the novel’s heroine reached fever pitch. Producer David Selznick finally settled on Vivien, a relatively unknown actress at the time. He had initially had“no enthusiasm for Vivien Leigh... She was very beautiful, but she seemed to be a little static, not quite sufficiently temperamental for such a fiery role”, but this silver cigarette box is a momento of the moment he changed his mind, and when the projection of Vivien’s career changed forever.

A dedicated reader of the book, Vivien kept a copy close at hand during filming and deeply resented any divergence from Margaret Mitchell’s text. On the final day of shooting, Olivia de Havilland (‘Melanie Hamilton’) walked past Vivien, failing to recognise her. “She looked so diminished by over work... Her whole atmosphere had changed. She gave something to that film that I don’t think she ever got back.” Vivien went on to win her first Oscar for her performance in 1939. She was just 26 years old at the time.

The silver box was gifted to the couple

by Myron Selznick, the man who was instrumental in securing Vivien with the coveted role. Olivier’s agent in Hollywood and David Selznick’s brother, Myron engineered the dramatic meeting between David and Vivien on the set of Gone with the Wind during the dramatic burning of Atlanta scenes, filmed before Scarlet had even been cast. The impression Vivien made – with the flames lighting up her face – was quite devastating; he recalled, “I’ll never recover from that first look”.

Her copy of Gone with the Wind is inscribed by Margaret Mitchell with a hand-written poem: “Life’s pattern pricked with a scarlet thread / where once we were with a gray / To remind us all how we played our parts / In the shock of an epic day”.

A gold ring, inscribed ‘Laurence Olivier Vivien Eternally’ (est. £400–600) “Apart from her looks, which were magical, she possessed beautiful poise... She also had something else: an attraction of the most perturbing nature I had ever encountered”- Laurence

A silver cigarette box, engraved with

Olivier recalling Vivien Leigh in 1982.

‘Vivien and Larry Love Myron [Myron Selznick]’. A present from the man credited

Married for 20 years, from 1940-1960, Vivien and Olivier were one of the most

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 282, ASPREY, LONDON, The Streetcar Named Desire Jewel Case, stamped Asprey, London crocodile skin, gold-velvet, brass and canvas the lid gilt-tooled ‘V. L. O. / 12th October 1949’ Estimate £800-1,200

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 289 THE CHRYSOBERYL DEMIPARURE 18th century brooch with Portuguese assay mark, chrysoberyl comprising: a devant-de-corsage designed as a bow suspending a detachable pendant, set throughout with foil-backed circular-cut, cushion and pear-shaped chrysoberyls; and a pair of earrings of similar design Estimate £4,000-6,000

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 300 PAIR OF PENDENT EARRINGS, jadeite each with a surmount formed as a round cartouche containing the Chinese character fú, meaning ‘good fortune’, suspending jadeite drops carved with a fruit design.

Estimate £100-150

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 26, GONE WITH THE WIND. NEW YORK THE MACMILLAN COMPANY, 1939 Margaret Mitchell Vivien Leigh’s personal copy of Gone with the Wind, given to her by the author Margaret Mitchell Estimate £5,000-7,000

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 245, STUDY OF ROSES Sir Winston Churchill, K.G., O.M., C.H., Hon. R.A. signed with initials, oil on canvasboard 51 by 36cm.; 20 by 14¼in.

Executed in the 1930s.

Estimate £70,000-100,000 Page 230

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 27, CIGARETTE BOX FROM MYRON SELZNICK A. Taylor, New Jersey A silver cigarette box, engraved with ‘Vivien and Larry Love Myron [Myron Selznick]’ A present from the man credited with securing Vivien with the role of Scarlett O’Hara Estimate £400-600

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 121, STUDY FOR PORTRAIT OF VIVIEN LEIGH Augustus John ,1942 Red chalk on paper 153⁄4in by 11in Estimate £5,000-7,000

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

glamorous couples in the world. Further to

the art historian who during his time as

watching Olivier numerous times on stage in

director of the National Gallery would

1934, Vivien became determined to meet

regularly drop by Vivien’s dressing room at

him, confiding to a friend ‘That’s the man I’m

Haymarket Theatre around the corner on

going to marry’ before they had even spoken.

matinée days. He recalled, “I used to make for

Her obsession was fuelled by dreams of

her rather better tea than her dresser would

theatrical glory and the idea that one day

have done. At first I went because I enjoyed

they might emulate Alfred Lunt and Lynn

looking at her... But very soon I went because

Fontanne, the legendary husband-and-wife

I enjoyed her company and was fascinated by

acting team, and become a celebrated stage

her character.”

couple. Towards the end of 1935 Vivien was at last introduced to her idol at the Savoy Grill. Married to other people at the time, they embarked on an affair the following year, and formally led separate lives until they were able to marry in 1940.

The Oliviers’ commission of a painting of their home Notley Abbey from John Piper shows the influence of Clark’s friendship.

Championed by Clark, Piper was one of the key artists he chose to record Britain during the Second World War through the War

A portrait of Vivien by Augustus John,

Artists Advisory Committee. As Surveyor of

1942 (est. £5,000–7,000) will also be available

the King’s Pictures, Clark had also helped to

on the sale. This portrait shines a light on the

secure Their Majestys’ commission for Piper

untold story of Vivien’s deep engagement

to paint a series of atmospheric watercolours

with art which she collected throughout her

of Windsor Castle in the early 1940s. The

life. As she travelled the world for months at a

painting of Notley Abbey was executed in the

time, she would not only buy new art from the

1940s and similarly captures the house in all

countries she visited, but would also take

its dramatic glory, akin to a stage set.

select paintings with her to decorate her hotel and dressing rooms across the globe.

Around 45 artworks are included in the sale.

Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744.

Sotheby’s became the first international

Unsurprisingly, Vivien herself could not

auction house when it expanded from

escape the attention of the artists in her

London to New York (1955), the first to

circle. This beautiful drawing of Vivien in red

conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India

chalk by Augustus John is a study for a

(1992) and France (2001), and the first

painting commissioned by Laurence Olivier

international fine art auction house in China

in 1942. The painting was never finished,

(2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in

allegedly because Olivier thought that the

10 different salesrooms, including New York,

artist had become too infatuated with his

London, Hong Kong and Paris.

subject.

For further information visit

Vivien’s love of art was likely nurtured

www.sothebys.com

through her friendship with Sir Kenneth Clark,

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 307 THE DIAMOND BOW BROOCH mid 19th century diamonds, silver, gold designed as a bow suspending an articulated tassel, set with circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds.

Estimate £25,000-35,000

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Lot 30 A collection of awards and certificates including Vivien’s certification of nomination for ‘Best Actress’ as Blanche DuBois in A Streetcar Named Desire, from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences Estimate £1,500-2,000

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Lot 30 GONE WITH THE WIND FILM SCRIPT Sidney Howard Gone with the Wind, film script, presented to Vivien Leigh by members of the cast, with photographs, circa 1939 Estimate £10,000 — 15,000

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 315 VIVIEN’S CHARM BRACELET 1940s and later, chalcedony, jadeite the double curb link bracelet set with a six charms including: an oval locket inscribed Lady Hamilton with the initials VL, containing a photograph of Vivien Leigh as Lady Hamilton and a portrait by George Romney; a book inscribed Gone with the Wind, the pages inscribed Vivien Leigh and Scarlett O’Hara, with an engraved image of the character; a round charm with a design of a boatagainst a sunset, the sky of blue chalcedony; a jadeite pendant carved with a design of a bat; and two chalcedony drops.

Estimate £1,000-1,500

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 321 THE ‘ETERNALLY’ RING 1940s the exterior engraved with floral decoration, and inscribed to the interior Laurence Olivier Vivien Eternally.

Estimate £400-600

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 311 SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING WEST & SON late 19th/early 20th century, signed West & Son sapphire, diamonds, claw-set with a circular-cut sapphire between circular-cut diamond shoulders.

Estimate £800-1,200

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 319 PENDANT suspending two pendants modelled as theatrical masks representing comedy and tragedy, from curb link chains and linked by a jump ring.

Estimate £100-150

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 316 THE XMAS 1940 WRISTWATCH watch dated 1940, later bracelet with British hallmarks for, London, 1959 rubies, diamonds, manual winding movement, the circular dial applied with Arabic numeral indicators, to shoulders set with calibre-cut rubies and single-cut diamonds, the reverse engraved Vivien Larry Only!! Darling Xmas 1940, to a later link bracelet.

Estimate £800-1,200

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION

Lot 306 ETRUSCAN REVIVAL STYLE BANGLE 19th century seed pearl, of hinged design, the front decorated with bead and rope twist details and set with a line of seed pearls.

Estimate £100-150

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE

Ulysse Nardin

Executive Moonstruck Worldtimer Page 243

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE

EXECUTIVE MOONSTRUCK WORLDTIMER Simplicity through watchmaking

turn around this fixed map of the world. The

eloquence: this new model remains the only

outermost circle features a symbol

watch to depict the movements of the moon

representing the sun. This solar disc, which

and sun in relation to the Earth, as well as a

completes one revolution in 24 hours, also

map of the tides.

sweeps over a display of 24 time zones and is

Our solar system is composed of a star, eight planets, 175 satellites, and billions of particles of interplanetary dust. And yet, human beings spend their whole lives alongside just two celestial bodies: the sun

equipped with a day/night indicator. These markings control the Worldtimer function, allowing the wearer to simultaneously display the time in the 24 cities inscribed on the internal flange.

and the moon. Since the beginning of time,

As for the moon, this appears on a lower

they have featured in all faiths, embodied in

orbit. Two discs work together here: on top,

every symbol, and fascinated every civi-

the first functions as a circu- lar window

lization. Their path through the sky, so familiar,

showing the position of the Earth’s satellite;

and their power over the tides, are the basis of

below, the second disc, in gold, shows the

the new Moon- struck Worldtimer.

changing phases of the moon. By separating

Leonardo da Vinci once said that simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Ulysse Nardin has made this saying the cornerstone of its philosophy. In its purest definition, the Moonstruck Worldtimer recreates the moon’s

this unique display into two rotating parts, Ulysse Nardin has accomplished such a high level of precision that the time lag for each lunar month is just 5.7 seconds per day, or one day in 40 years.

orbit and the apparent movement of the sun

Eight years after the first Moonstruck

around the globe. Its celestial ballet, just as it

made its mark, the Moonstruck Worldtimer

is seen from the Earth, is unlike anything an

remains the only astronomical wristwatch with

astronomical watch has previously offered.

the bright part of the moon always facing the

This intuitive display hides a sophisticated

sun, as happens in real life. The dial also

mechanism that provides an unusually

displays a particularly easy-to-read map of the

accurate indication of the phases of the moon.

tides, which is the result of the gravitational

In the center of the dial, the Northern Hemisphere is depicted as seen from above the North Pole. Six o’clock in London represents the Greenwich meridian, marking Greenwich Mean Time. Three concentric discs

forces of these two celestial bod- ies, as well as of the centrifugal force exerted by the rotation of the Earth. This sometimes exaggerates or cancels out the influence of the oceans.

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE

Equipped with silicium technology, and entirely designed and produced in-house, the self-winding calibre UN-106 housed in the Moonstruck Worldtimer once again offers a date function, on a track encircling the world map. Push buttons at 8 and 10 o’clock enable the wearer to quickly move the time forward or backward by one hour – a very handy feature while travelling or when switching to summer time.

Crown: screw down security crown.

Diameter: 46 Water-resistance: 100 m Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire crystal Case-back: sapphire crystal Strap: leather strap with folding clasp Price:

A sign of its ever-independent spirit, Ulysse Nardin is one of the only comprehensive manufacturers in Switzerland to master both innovation and watchmaking tradition. The owner of various

Ref. 1069-113/01 : € 95‘000.-, CHF 95'000.(platinum model) Ref. 1062-113/01 : € 75’000.-, CHF 75’000.(rose gold model)

patents, working right at the cut- ting-edge of technology, it also focuses on sharing ancestral knowledge through its artwork.

TECHNICAL DATA References:1069-113/01 & 1062-113/01 Limited Edition to 100 pieces Movement: Caliber UN-106, In-house designed movement, Silicium escapement and spring, 28’800 v/h.

Power reserve: approximately 50 h Winding: self-winding Functions: Astronomical timepiece, Indication of position of Sun and Moon in relation toEarth, Indication of Moon phases, Indication of tides, Worldtimer function for 24 cities, Hours, minutes, date, Instant time zone adjuster with patented quick setting device.

Case: platinum or rosegold 18 kt.

Dial: blue, motif: Earth, concentric discs

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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE

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Photo courtesy of Lin Mei | Unsplash

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SHOWCASE

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

ANNA HU

FAIDEE

BHAGAT

LIN SHIAO TUNG

BUSSATI

PALMIERO

ANABELA CHAN

NIKOS KOULIS

JACK VARTANIAN

BOUCHERON M. THOUVENOT

To see more of our favorite jewellery, follow us on www.instagram.com/jewellery_historian Page 250

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN

ADRESS BOOK BRANDS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

ANABELA CHAN

LIN SHIAO TUNG

www.anabelachan.com

www.lin-shiao-tung.com.tw

ANNA HU

M.THOUVENOT

www.anna-hu.com

www.mthouvenot.com

ARTISTAR JEWELLERY 2018

NIKOS KOULIS

www.artistarjewels.com

www.nikoskoulis.gr

BHAGAT

PALMIERO

www.bhagatjewellers.com

www.palmierogioielli.com

BOUCHERON

SACET

www.boucheron.com

www.sacet.com

BUSSATI

SOTHEBY’S

www.bussatimilano.com

www.sothebys.com

FABERGÉ

ULYSSE NARDIN

www.faberge.com

www.ulysse-nardin.com

FAIDEE

WALLACE CHAN

www.faidee.com

www.wallace-chan.com

JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com

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