Jewellery Historian
Photo courtesy of Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent © Patrick Demarchelier
THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY
26
PIERRE BERGÉ A life of love
26 THE
BEST
KEPT
SECRET
IN
THE
WORLD
OF
LUXYRY
PIERRE BERGÉ Businessman, collector and patron of the arts, we honor the memory of an exceptional man, Pierre Bergé (1930-2017)
HIVER IMPÉRIAL BY BOUCHERON
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Boucheron introduces Hiver Impérial, its new collection of high jewelry inspired by the aura of the Far East’s vast stretches of snow covered land.
MAGNIFICENT JEWELS
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On 3 October, Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale 2017 will bring to the market a series of iconic masterpieces hailing from legendary jewellers
WALLACE CHAN
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Wallace Chan will give in October a talk at Harvard University and take part in a dialogue on jewelry creation with museum curators. He will also exhibit in TETAF New York with new pieces. Discover in avant-première amazing new pieces by a great artist.
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CONTENTS
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C A F E
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B A R
E L A S I D O N
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R E S T A U R A N T
1 7
A T H E N S
211 4007882 www.qbee.gr
Jewellery Historian THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY
Jewellery Historian www . jewelleryhistorian . com info @ jewelleryhistorian . com
FOUNDER | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier, G.G (GIA) ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Christina Rodopoulou
26
PIERRE A lifeBERGÉ of love
CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE | Panayiotis Simopoulos GEMOLOGY EDITOR | Eva Kountouraki, G.G (GIA) PARTNERS | Martin Huynh, Catherine Varoucha,
COVER | Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 2002 © Patrick Demarchelier With permission, Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent
COLUMNISTS | Lara van Schaik, G.G (GIA), Preeta Agarwal CREATIVE | Jewellery Historian PRODUCTION | Jewellery Historian PHOTO AGENCIES | Shutterstock, iStock, Unsplash GRAPHIC DESIGN | Jewellery Historian ADVERTISING | Jewellery Historian WEB | www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-MAIL | info@jewelleryhistorian.com
Made in the European Union Printed copies available exclusively by Print of Demand JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2017
All material published in the digital and printed versions of the Jewellery Historian magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of the magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and brands, neither the publishers, editors, columnists, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” name and/or logo, may not be reproduced in any possible way without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited. The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission. All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Jewellery Historian are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian web pages & magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/logos/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or digital and print magazine belong to their owners. All third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned are trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. The full Terms & Conditions are available online at the website of the Jewellery Historian.
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | CONTENTS | ISSUE 26
233
163
Vivien Leigh Collection
CARLO PALMIERO
Hollywood icon and incandescent star of one of the most beloved films of all time, Vivien Leigh captured hearts and minds with her fiery, luminous performance as Scarlett O’Hara in Gone with the Wind in 1939.
Carlo Palmiero, founder of Palmiero Jewellery Design, represents the artistic avant-garde per excellence in the high jewellery sector. Discover his amazing new creations.
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FINE JEWELS AT SOTHEBYS
JEAN DESPRÉS
Aerin Lauder selects Day & Night Looks from the 300+ jewels on offer, including pieces from her personal collection sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation®
He is the father of machine age jewellery. Després : avant-gardist, silver smith, artist-jeweller, Bourguignon and above all modest. La Châtelaine invites you to learn about an amazing artist.
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EXECUTIVE MOONSTRUCK WORLDTIMER
NEW COLLECTION AT FABERGÉ
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In keeping with its fondness for delight and discovery, Fabergé unveils new surprises. Discover amazing new pieces of the famous jewellery and new collections of jewellery with a story.
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JEWELLERY WITH A PURPOSE
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SACET is a luxury lifestyle brand on a truly unique journey. One that aims to redefine your relationship with designer jewellery; from how it is designed, sourced, manufactured and sold.
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250 51
Simplicity through watchmaking eloquence: this new model remains the only watch to depict the movements of the moon and sun in relation to the Earth, as well as a map of the tides.
SHOWCASE Previously known as OUR FAVES, this new column is a window to a new world of craftsmanship, beauty and creativity. Discover amazing jewellery and timepieces and a unique new experience.
M E D I A PA RT N E R S
EDITOR’S LETTER
F
or many years I wanted it to offer to all designers around the globe the voice they didn’t had, to offer them the possibility to showcase their exceptional talent and share their creative vision with an international audience. With a passion for knowledge and critical inquiry, while searching new and innovative ways of delivering information that
can resonate long after publication, combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, I decided few years ago to launch the Jewellery Historian, a project to promote design and designers, the first online magazine exclusively focused on jewellery & timepieces. The Jewellery Historian has a strong focus on design and craftsmanship, thereby promoting artists who aren't necessarily part of the latest trend, but whose body of work shows an affinity for quality and taste over a longer period of time. The main goal of our publication is to be a celebration of innovation and creativity, a publication about the talented artists and about the people that create exceptional jewellery and unique timepieces. We showcase artists and brands whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. With each issue we invite our readers to explore the stories of passionate people and the motivations behind their inspirational lifestyles. We do our best to offer a unique perspective to connoisseurs and people who love not only jewellery & timepieces, but mainly design and unique craftsmanship, and the Jewellery Historian is today considered by many decision makers & connoisseurs as the "Best kept secret in the world of luxury". As a digital magazine & a limited edition book, the Jewellery Historian has definitely a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling, which combined to a minimal and clean design offers to readers from around the globe a unique reading experience. But at the Jewellery Historian, we’re always looking for ways to make the lives of our readers and of all our partners easier. Our development & design team is constantly revisiting the functionality of our magazine to discover new ways we can enrich the reading experience. In our mission to make that a reality, we’re happy to introduce with this issue the new layout. The new design is clean, simple and modern with a lot of whitespace, so that our readers focus to all amazing creations made by our precious and prestigious partners, wrapped up in beautiful words, illustration and photography, and collected into a beautifully designed print artifact.
FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JEWELLERY HISTORIAN MAGAZINE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM
PIERRE BERGÉ A life of love
Pierre Bergé, Rue Bonaparte, Paris, 2015 © Eric Jansen Page 9
IN MEMORIAM
PIERRE BERGÉ 1930-2017
It is with immense sadness that we were informed from the Fondation Pierre Bergé -
is today: an important cultural center of Morocco.
Yves Saint Laurent, Paris and the Fondation Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech the death of their founding president Pierre Bergé, which occurred on September 8, 2017, at 5.39 am, a t h o m e i n S a i n t - R é m y - d e - Pro v e n c e . He died in his sleep at the age of 86 following a long illness.
In 2015, the President of France, François Hollande, promoted Pierre Bergé to the rank of Grand Officier of the Ordre national de la Légion d’honneur. The following year, His Majesty Mohammed VI, King of Morocco, awarded him the Grand Cross of the Order of Ouissam Alaouite for eminent service to the
Businessman, collector and patron of the
Kingdom of Morocco.
arts, Pierre Bergé was the companion of Yves Saint Laurent with whom he founded the Yves Saint Laurent couture house in 1961, and which he directed until 2002. A lover of the arts and literature, he and Saint Laurent assembled one of the most important private art collections in the world, which was sold at auction in 2009 following the death of the couturier the previous year. Pierre Bergé was one of the great patrons of the arts and culture in France. He served as director of the Théâtre de l’Athénée – Louis-Jouvet and president of the Opéra National de Paris. An activist since his youth, he remained politically engaged throughout his life. In 1994, he founded Sidaction, France’s leading AIDS research and support charity, and actively supported groups fighting social inequality. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent discovered Morocco in 1966 and fell in love
This autumn, he was to inaugurate two museums dedicated to the work of Yves Saint Laurent, in Paris and Marrakech. Pierre Bergé was born on the Île d’Oléron on November 14, 1930. His mother was a schoolteacher, and his father was a civil servant. He took an early interest in literature and moved to Paris in 1948, where he became a book dealer specializing in first editions. He socialized with such writers as Pierre Mac Orlan, Jean Cocteau (over whose work he had moral rights), Louis Aragon, Albert Camus, Jean-Paul Sartre, and André Breton. In 1950, he met the painter Bernard Buffet. They became companions, and Bergé would go on to guide Buffet’s career over the next eight years. In 1950, he also befriended the writer Jean Giono, who would play an important role in his life.
with the country. They saved the Jardin
In 1958, Bergé met Yves Saint Laurent. In
Majorelle from destruction and made it what it
1961, they established the Yves Saint Laurent haute couture house, which Bergé would
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM
manage until 2002. In 1973, he was elected president of the Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode. In 1986, he created the Institut Français de la Mode, which provides education related to the fashion and textile industries. He continued to preside over this institution to this day. Bergé was also the founding president of the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, which was recognized as a public utility in 2002 and works to conserve Saint Laurent’s body of work, organize exhibitions, and support cultural and educational activities. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent discovered Morocco in 1966 and immediately fell in love with a country which would play an important role in their lives. In 1980, they acquired the Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech, saving it from destruction by real estate developers. Today it has become one of the most visited sites in Morocco, welcoming nearly 800,000 visitors per year. The non- profit Fondation Jardin Majorelle, established by Pierre Bergé in 2001, ensures the safeguarding and maintenance of the garden. Its benefits are used to support cultural, educational and social initiatives in Morocco. In 2011, Pierre Bergé inaugurated the first museum in the world dedicated to Amazigh culture; the Berber Museum, located at the Jardin Majorelle, plays an significant role in building awareness of the Amazigh people and their important contribution to the Moroccan identity. In 1977, Bergé’s passion for the theater and opera led him to acquire the Théâtre de l’Athénée – Louis-Jouvet, which he managed until 1982 when he donated it to the French government. He created an additional, more intimate performance space devoted to avant-garde theater in the building’s attic. It was designed by Jacques Grange and named after the French artist, illustrator, and designer Christian Bérard. Under his direction, the theater presented plays by classical authors and emerging playwrights. Along with Danièle Cattand, he created Les Lundis musicaux de l’Athénée, which showcased the world’s most talented musicians up until 1989. Bergé produced plays by Peter Shaffer, Antoine Vitez, Claude Régy, Marguerite Duras, Peter Brook, and Robert Wilson, as well as concerts by John Cage and Philip Glass. In 1988, he was named president of the Opéra de Paris (including the Opéra Bastille, which he opened one year later). He would continue to hold this position until 1994, when he was named honorary president. “In order to be a patron, you have to be an art lover,” Bergé has said. Named Grand Mécène des Arts et de la Culture by the French government in 2001, Bergé has financed a number of projects that have been dear to him, including: the acquisition of Georges de La Tour’s painting Saint Thomas à la pique by the Musée du Louvre en 1988; the renovation of two rooms bearing both his and Yves Saint Laurent’s names at the National Gallery in London in 1998; the renovation and the interior refurbishment of the Musée national d’art moderne – Centre Pompidou’s legendary collections in 1999; and the exhibition Picasso Érotique at the Jeu de Paume in Paris in 2001.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM
Yves Saint Laurent et Pierre Bergé Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 2002 © Patrick Demarchelier Page 12
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM
He presided over the Cercle des Amis du Ring, which was created when Richard Wagner’s Ring cycle was presented at the Opéra national de Paris during the 2010-2011 season. Bergé was the leading patron of the exhibition Les visages et les corps, which the film and theater director Patrice Chéreau was invited to coordinate at the Musée du Louvre in 2010. That same year he presided over the Festival Normandie Impressionniste. In 2014, he helped to fund the renovation of the prestigious Villa Kujoyama in Kyoto, which hosts French residencies. Over the years, Bergé and Saint Laurent assembled one of the most important art collections in the world. In 2009, the collection was sold at the Grand Palais in Paris for the sum of nearly 375 million euros, benefitting the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent and AIDS research. In 1994, Bergé and the French actress Line Renaud created Ensemble contre le SIDA, which works to educate the public about AIDS and raise money for research. Bergé was president of this association, which is now known as Sidaction. The Fonds de dotation Pierre Bergé, which was created in 2009, donated two million euros to the fight against AIDS annually over a period of five years. Bergé was also an active supporter of Act Up-Paris and SOS Racisme. As a young activist, Bergé participated in Garry Davis’s One World movement. In 1984, he befriended François Mitterrand and went on to create the magazine Globe in 1988, which supported Mitterand’s presidential campaign. Along with Jacques Rosselin, he founded the French weekly Courrier International in 1990 and the gay magazine Têtu in 1995. With the help of Xavier Niel and Matthieu Pigasse, Bergé became majority shareholder of the Groupe Le Monde in 2010. He was named president of the supervisory board. Bergé is the author of many books, including Inventaire Mitterrand (Stock, 1991), Les jours s’en vont je demeure (Gallimard, 2003), L’Album Cocteau (La Pléiade, Gallimard, 2006), Lettres à Yves (Gallimard, 2010), and Yves Saint Laurent : Une passion marocaine (Éditions de La Martinière, 2010). He was also a keen bibliophile. His personal library, which he began assembling early on and reflected his individual pursuits, contained over 1,600 valuable editions from the fifteenth to the twentienth centuries. Its auction started in 2015. In June 2010, the Comité Cocteau, over which Bergé presided, opened the Maison Cocteau in Milly-la-Forêt. In 2011, Bergé launched the restoration of the Maison Zola in Médan and the creation of the Musée Alfred Dreyfus, a project overseen by the Association Maison Zola – Musée Dreyfus (of which he was also president). In 2015, the President of France, François Hollande, promoted Pierre Bergé to the rank of Grand Officier of the Ordre national de la Légion d’honneur. The following year, His Majesty Mohammed VI, King of Morocco, awarded him the Grand Cross of the Order of Ouissam Alaouite for eminent service to the Kingdom of Morocco.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM
3
1
2
4
5 1. Bernard Buffet and, Jean Giono, Pierre Bergé, 1950 © DR 2. Pierre Bergé, 1957 © Claude Buffet 3. Jean Cocteau and Pierre Bergé, 1958 © Edouard Dermitt 4. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, Dar Es Saada, Marrakech, 1977 © Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Guy Marineau 5. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, 1982 © Didier Fèvre Page 14
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM
At his initiative, two museums dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent will be opening this autumn: in Paris, on October 3rd, in the former premises of the haute couture house, and in Marrakech, on October 19th, in a new building next to the Jardin Majorelle. For us all at the Jewellery Historian, Pierre Bergé was a man we loved and admired and we will all miss him. We wanted to honor the life of this exceptional man and this article and cover was a way for us to publicly thank him for everything. We would like to express our sincere condolences to his husband, his family, his relatives, all his friends and to the Foundation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent.
Yves Saint Laurent et Pierre Bergé, Château Gabriel, Bénerville-sur-mer, circa 1985 © Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Guy Marineau
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | IN MEMORIAM
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6. François Mitterrand et Pierre Bergé Paris, circa 1990 © DR 7. Pierre Bergé, Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Marrakech, 2010 8. Pierre Bergé, Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, 2017 © Luc Castel
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Rare Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond 'Tutti-Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
SOTHEBY’S HONG KONG MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND JADEITE AUTUMN SALE On 3 October, Sotheby’s Hong Kong
14,000,000/US$1,300,000 – 1,800,000) A
Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale
witness to the fin-de-siècle when Art Deco was
2017 will bring to the market a series of iconic
at its peak, this classic 'Tutti-Frutti' bracelet by
masterpieces hailing from legendary jewellers,
Cartier weds the bold and vibrant designs of
highlighted by a rare art deco ‘Tutti Frutti’
the East to the elegant and classic aesthetics
Cartier bracelet, an exquisite 8.49-carat ruby
of the West. Rich with Indian influences, the
ring by JAR and an impressive emerald and
Tutti Frutti jewels blossomed with ripe Mughal
diamond parure by Van Cleef & Arpels. The
fruits and foliage, each individual piece an
sale will also feature a fine selection of rare
i n t r i c a t e l y c a r v e d s a p p h i r e , r u b y o r
coloured diamonds, exceptional gemstones
emerald, intertwined with a ribbon of
and bejewelled garden themed selection
d i a m o n d s . Fo l l o w i n g i t s i n c e p t i o n ,
inspired by the flora and fauna of nature. Over
Cartier’s ateliers became an obligatory
250 lots estimated in excess of
stopover for visiting Maharajas. Christened the
HK$650,000,000/US$83,000,000 will be
name ‘Tutti Frutti’ in 1970, the exuberant
offered this season.
colours and sumptuous textures bear
QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of International
testament to one of Cartier’s most iconic collections of the Art Deco era.
Jewellery, Asia, said, “We are extremely
An Exquisite 8.49ct Burmese Ruby and
pleased to present a great selection of the
Diamond Ring, JAR (Est. HK$13,000,000 –
marvellous jewels to captivate our Asian
15,000,000/US$1,700,000 – 1,900,000)
jewellery connoisseurs: From an iconic Cartier
Through the years, part of the JAR mystique
‘Tutti Frutti’ masterpiece to an amazingly rare
has come from the fact that the jewels
‘pigeon’s blood’ ruby in a revolutionary mounting by India supremo, BHAGAT, not to mention blue and pink diamonds and an array of precious gemstones. We are also delighted to offer a great rarity - The Woolworth Yard Jadeite Necklace which dates from 1957.”
L o n d o n ’s S o m e r s e t H o u s e i n 2 0 0 2 - 2003 caused a sensation within the international jewellery world, whilst the 2013 Metropolitan Museum, New York 2013 retrospective, Jewels by JAR, demonstrated
T I M E L E S S TA L E S O F L E G E N D A R Y JEWELLERS A Rare and Important Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond 'Tutti-Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier (Est. HK$10,500,000 –
were so rarely seen in public. An exhibition at
the full force of his protean talent. Featuring in The Impossible Collection of Jewellery: The 100 Most Important Jewels of the Twentieth Century publication, JAR’s jewels rank amongst the great art jewels of history. This 8.49ct Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring,
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
displays JAR’s fine, meticulous pavé work. His
pays tribute to the history of the Maison and
attention to detail demonstrated in the simple
its indefatigable representatives who travel
mounting of the ring itself. When worn, the
the globe in the quest of the finest gems. Of
ruby is designed to be in constant contact to
this collection, four exceptional rings were
the wearer’s skin, accentuating the gem’s
made especially for its presence in the 25th
associations with power and protection,
Biennale des Antiques in Paris, representing
creating a subtle but significant connection
each of the four Verne novels; Five Weeks in
between the gem and the wearer.
a Balloon, From the Earth to the Moon,
Exquisite Jade, Diamond and Ruby Brooch, BHAGAT (Est. HK$2,000,000 – 2,800,000/US$256,000 – 358,000) Crowned with the majesty of the opulent Indian treasures, BHAGAT jewels encompass the sophistication of Mughal artistry and the grandeur of Islamic structures, blended with the elegancy of Art Deco; an incarnation of the past enduring through the present. Ardent admirers of jade, Mughal emperors d e l i g h t e d i n c o l l e c t i n g e x q u i s i t e l y
Journey to the Center of the Earth and Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Named the Hydôr Ring, this ring is inspired by Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Dedicated to the fluidity of water, the swirling gradient of bright diamonds to light and dark sapphires are reminiscent of the gradual plunge deep into the oceanic abyss. Whilst the 20.04 carat sapphire, fixed as the glorious centre, remains the constant – a reminder of how inescapably the ocean reigns supreme.
carved works of jade, symbolising their
Jadeite Bead and Diamond Necklace,
dynastic aspirations and exhibiting the
Raymond Yard, 1957 (Est. HK$400,000 –
acculturative genius of Mughal style of art
600,000/US$51,500 – 77,000) Made in 1957,
with the harmonious integration of
this Jadeite Bead and Diamond Necklace
intercultural influences. Designed as a
reflects the classic Yard Art Deco aesthetics of
stylized poppy, the flower gracefully emerges from a sinuous diamond encrusted stem, which terminates in an old-mine pear-shaped diamond leaf. The sensuousness and tactile qualities of Mughal jade resonates through the delicate celadon green jade, carved with contrasting techniques used between the front and rear petals. Fine Sapphire and Diamond Ring, 'Les
aiming to achieve an overall luminous sophistication; a look that would not overwhelm the design. An image of the Art Deco clasp rendering retrieved from the Raymond Yard archives, records Mr. Woolworth as purchasing this exquisite piece for the Woolworth collection – a celebrated legacy shared by Woolworth and Yard. RARE DIAMONDS
Voyages Extraordinaires', Van Cleef & Arpels (Est. HK$2,800,000 - 3,800,000/US$360,000 – 490,000) Les Voyages ExtraordinairesTM, Van Cleef & Arpel’s whimsical collection inspired by four of Jules Verne’s fantastical novels,
Very Rare and Important Fancy Deep Blue Diamond Ring (Est. HK$55,000,000 – 75,000,000/US$7,000,000 – 9,600,000) Blue diamonds possess the captivating colour and intensity reminiscent of the depths of the
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An 8.49ct Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring, JAR
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Sapphire and Diamond Ring, 'Les Voyages Extraordinaires', Van Cleef & Arpels
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Exquisite Jade, Diamond and Ruby Brooch, BHAGAT
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Jadeite Bead and Diamond Necklace, Raymond Yard
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Jadeite and Diamond Clip Brooch
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond and Diamond Earrings, 5.21 5.01 cts
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
Very Rare and Important Fancy Deep Blue Diamond, 5.14 cts ring
Very Fine Unmounted Diamond, 31.98cts
Important Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring 20.03cts.
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lapis Lazuli, Enamel and Emerald Clip Brooch, 'Panthère', Cartier
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Azure Sea and are considered amongst the
Important Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond
world’s rarest coloured diamonds. To find a
Ring (Est. HK$16,000,000 –
pure blue diamond with the level of
20,000,000/US$2,050,000 – 2,560,000)
saturation required to grade it as Fancy Deep
An Emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond
is extraordinary; of which less than 10% of
weighing 20.03 Carat.
blue diamonds examined by the GIA are awarded. In recent years, Sotheby’s has been at the forefront of record-setting auction prices for blue diamonds. In 2015, Sotheby’s Geneva set the then world auction record for
Accompanied by a GIA report stating that the 20.03 carat diamond is natural Fancy Vivid Yellow Colour and Internally Flawless. RARE COLOURED STONES
any blue diamond with the sale of The Blue Moon of Josephine for an astounding US$48,468,158. Whilst Sotheby’s Hong Kong has been leading with an offering of blue diamonds this past decade, with the recent Millennium Jewel 4 in 2016, as well as setting the current world auction record price-percarat for a Fancy Intense Blue diamond earlier this spring.
Very Rare and Important 13.26 carat Ruby and Diamond Ring, Designed and Mounted by BHAGAT (Est. HK$68,000,000 – 88,000,000/US$8,700,000 – 11,260,000) Unrivalled in colour, life and vitality, rubies have long been revered as the ‘King of Gems’. The legendary mines of Burma are renowned in producing the most desirable rubies, sought after by gem connoisseurs
Exquisite Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond and
worldwide. The colour of a ruby is the single
D i a m o n d Pe n d e n t E a r r i n g s ( E s t .
most important criterion of a ruby’s quality –
HK$30,000,000 – 40,000,000/US$3,840,000 –
the most coveted being a bright and pure
5,120,000) Each set with a pear-shaped fancy
red, of high saturation.
pink diamond weighing 5.21 and 5.01 carats. Both Fancy Pink diamonds accompanied by GIA reports stating that the diamonds are natural, Fancy Pink Colour, Internally Flawless and VS1 clarity respectively.
Given the regal name of Maniraja, meaning ‘King of Jewels’ due to its intense and homogenous red colour, the Maniraja r u b y h a s m e r i t e d t h e p r e s t i g i o u s descriptive term of ‘pigeon blood’ for its high
Very Fine Unmounted Diamond, 31.98cts
colour intensity and superb quality, from both
(Est. HK$37,000,000 –
Gübelin and SSEF Gem Laboratories.
48,000,000/US$4,700,000 – 6,000,000) A
Majestic on every level, the Maniraja’s
brilliant-cut diamond weighing 31.98 carats.
impressive size of 13.26 carats, combines an
Accompanied by a GIA report stating that the 31.98 carat diamond is D colour,
impeccable cut emphasising the exceptional lustre, whilst intensifying the crimson glow.
Flawless, with Excellent Cut, Polish and
One of the most acclaimed jewellers of
Symmetry; as well as a Type IIa diamond
our time, to BHAGAT, design is paramount
classification letter.
and sacrosanct. Representing a sublime of artistry and craftsmanship, BHAGAT’s stylistic
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Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Very Rare and Important 13.26 carat Ruby and Diamond Ring, Designed and Mounted by BHAGAT
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
signature presents an etheral, efforless
THEMED SESSION: THE BEJEWELLED
lightness, touched with both a princely
GARDEN
hauteur and hint of sensuality. Using the cut and shape of gemstomes to create the desired silhouette of a the jewel, playing with light, texture and translucencies, this jewel boasts of its opulence with the superb majesty of the Maniraja ruby, enhancing the ravishing refinement of this original BHAGAT creation.
Mother Nature has long been an everlasting source of incredible inspiration to the artists and jewellery designers alike. Captivated by the exquisite beauty of flora and fauna, myriads of masterpieces have flourished and bloomed throughout the history of mankind. Subtle musings of nature transformed into wondrous declarations of
Rare Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond
l o v e i n t h e f o r m o f b u t t e r fli e s a n d
Ring (Est. HK$8,750,000 –
enlightenment in dragonflies, the inspiration
11,000,000/US$1,120,000 – 1,410,000)
from botanic beauties boundless. From the
Discovered only in the 1980s, the Paraíba has
legendary beasts of Cartier, to the playful
quickly become one of the world’s most
a e s t h e t i c s o f m o d e r n c o n t e m p o ra r y
coveted gemstones. This rare and enigmatic
designers, creative interpretations are reborn
gemstone has set a new standard of
as extraordinary treasures, in a beautiful ode
excellence for colour interpretation in the
to nature. This season, Sotheby’s invites you
world of coloured gemstones. With the
to take a stroll through our bejewelled
Brazilian mines exhausted more than 20 years
garden, specially curated to delight the
ago, to find a stone over ten carats that is of
senses.
natural colour, with no clarity enhancement, is an absolute rarity.
Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744.
Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond
Sotheby’s became the first international
Ring (Est. HK$3,800,000 –
auction house when it expanded from
5,000,000/US$486,000 – 640,000)
London to New York (1955), the first to
Celebrated as an ethereal fusion of the pink
conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India
glow of a lotus bloom and the soft orange
(1992) and France (2001), and the first
hues of sunset, the Padparadscha sapphire is
international fine art auction house in China
an embodiment of rarity and elegance.
(2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in
Derived from the Sanskrit word ‘padma raga’
10 different salesrooms.
(lotus colour), the sapphire must exhibit the distinctive blend between delicate pink to orange tones to be truly called a Padparadscha. Highly prized by gem connoisseurs, the elusive and enigmatic Padparadscha delights with its blossoming beauty and romantic hue.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Rare Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
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Rubellite and Diamond Brooch - Pendant, 'Orchid', Cartier
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © SOTHEBY’S
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Ring
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
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SACET
Jewellery with a purpose SACET is a luxury lifestyle brand on a truly unique journey. One that aims to redefine your relationship with designer jewellery; from how it is designed, sourced, manufactured and sold. SACET, sanskrit for consciousness, offers you a unique concept; SACET partners with and mentors emerging and existing design talent within the jewellery market to offer you an inspiring and intelligent array of timeless jewellery. The ‘makers’ for the launch are Andrea Tan, Ana de Costa, Mazarin & Cie and Ailsa Mackie who all bring their independent creativity and inspiration to the SACET offering. SACET epitomises a newfound spirituality and transparency, sourcing the finest ethical materials, creating a positive effect on the skilled artisans and craftsmen they employ and ultimately sharing their passion for the planet and profit. Investing in jewellery should be a personal and reflective experience – a journey on which SACET wants to guide you through. SACET is more than a jewellery brand and this is merely the start of a compassionate journey through life. SACET is the anchor at the helm of a new movement towards sustainable Jewellery, with design expertise at its core. It is not worthy, it is revolutionary and considered. Fundamentally SACET is purely beautiful jewellery with a beautiful impact.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Sacet - Ornate Citrine Rose Gold Eternity Ring - £230
Sacet - Ornate Rose Gold Stacked Ring - £460 Page 36
Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Sacet - Ornate Geometric Gold Tassel Bracelet - £295 Page 37
Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Sacet - Ornate Amethyst Gold Eternity Ring - £230
Sacet - Ornate Gold Stacked Ring - £460
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET
Sacet - Marque Aureole Rose Gold Stud Earrings - £149
Sacet - Marque Plain Infinity Rose Gold Bangle - £205
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Photos courtesy of SACET © SACET
Sacet - Marque Diamond Ripple Gold Ring - £165
Sacet - Marque Gold Double Ring - £315
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Sacet - Belle Pink Amethyst Rose Gold Oval Ring - £215
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Sacet - Orbis Cluster Gold Ring - £565
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | ART OF CREATIVITY
Sacet - Belle Mix and Match Silver Drop Earrings - £435
Sacet - Belle Lolite and Opal Rose Gold Dipped Ring - £235
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LA CHÂTELAINE
JEAN DESPRÉS The father of machine age jewellery
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JEAN DESPRÉS The father of machine age jewellery His name popped up at several local
parents moved to Avallon in the Yonne on the
auctions in Auxerre, Joigny and Sens and
doorstep of the Morvan in Burgundy. He came
every time the lots were very recognizable, so I
from a family of master glass makers and his
started to become curious. Who is this Jean
father broke with family tradition and opened
Després? The work that went under the
a jewellery shop at 27, rue de Paris and later
hammer was mostly tableware or silver objects
moved to 20, Place Vauban. A small plaque de
and every now and then a piece of jewellery.
souvenir on the wall of the florist shop
The silverware was always hammered by hand
indicates that Després worked here from 1920
with a very distinctive decorative gourmet
to 1980. The family sold jewellery, table and
chain around the feet or the edges. Now I
glass ware and the shop was mostly run by his
know this work was made by Després in the
mother as his father Octave Després was often
fifties. But a trip to Avallon and Paris learns that
abroad on buying trips.
his most interesting work is from the 1920s and 1930s. Després : avant-gardist, silver smith, artist-jeweller, Bourguignon and above all modest.
Although Jean Després was not a particular good student, he did excel in drawing. A few technical drawings and landscape sketches survived. He was also keen
In his hometown, the Musée d’Avallonnais
on sports and very good at cycling. He always
dedicates an entire room to Jean Després. The
wanted to win. This competition driven
museum shows a collection of jewellery,
adolescent was soon to surprise the world by
cutlery, tableware, objects d’art and religious
his designs and would become one of the
pieces. I was surprised by the gifts Jean
most influential avant-garde artist-jeweller of
Després received during his life. Gifts from
the 20th century.
Braque, De Chirico and Paul Jouve, who were his friends. This man began to intrigue me. Who was this man that lived and worked almost his entire life in the Yonne, my ‘departement’?
At the age of 16 his father send him to Paris, to the Marais quartier to learn the metier of silver smith. At the same time, he completed his education at the Paris school for drawing and visited the Bateau-Lavoir
Nevertheless, his story begins in the Allier.
where he met Modigliani, Picasso, Signac, De
Jean Després was born in 1889 in Souvigny in
Chirico, Marie Laurencin, Soutine and Braque
the centre of France and only a year later his
who became his best friend. The Bateau-Lavoir
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LA CHÂTELAINE
was the residence and meeting place in
Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et
Montmartre of well-known early 20th century
industriels Modernes, but it was not until
artists, writers, theatre makers and art dealers.
1928 that he exposed under his own name.
Picasso painted here his first cubist work Les
The public was not ready for his creations and
Demoiselles d’Avignon and Després became
ridiculed his designs. He wrote to his friend
fascinated by cubism.
Cournault: ‘The things that I made are
During the First World War he was put to work as a mechanics designer for the military aviation Industry. It was in Lyon that he
apparently too modern. People seem to be rather flabbergasted, but I could not make Marie-Antoinette stuff for them.’
worked on the famous Hispano-Suiza engins
Després really believed in himself and
that he developed his love for machine age
only a year later he was noticed by a
jewellery. After the war his ten-year younger
journalist of La Liberté who wrote about his
sister died of the Spanish flu and Després
work as ‘simple and original’ and in 1930 at
sense of duty draw him back to Avallon, were
the following salon his work was highly
he started running the family business and in
successful. From that time on he collaborated
1920 his parents handed the shop over to
with several artists and one of them was the
him.
painter Etienne Cournault, who painted Després knew all to well, being in the
countryside, that if he wanted to establish a name for himself he needed to show his work in Paris. It was the time of the roaring twenties, the Ballets Russes and new artist’s movements like cubism, fauvism and futurism. Després had paid attention to the lessons from his friend Braque. He fully understood the principles of modern art and by applying geometrical forms and shapes to his jewellery he became one of the founders
reverse paintings on glass. At the Musée d’Avallonnais is one of these reverse paintings exhibited together with a brooch and a pendant. Després created the jewellery for what he called ‘bijoux glaces’ or glass or mirror jewellery. The settings were mainly silver and sometimes inlaid with gold. The paintings were in black, grey and silver, and were ‘playing with the light and producing curious refractive effects’, according to a journalist of L’Art et le Mode.
of the Art Deco style.
1930 was also the year that his machine
At that time the Art Salons and International Exhibitions were particularly en vogue, Després with the help of Signac, submitted as much as he could to these exhibitions. At first his work was refused and when he was accepted the critics and public thought ill of him. He contributed to the 1925 Exposition
jewellery saw the light. At the exhibition ‘L Aeronautique et l Art’ Després showed a brooch, a ring and bracelet inspired on the machine parts he used to work with during the war. In itself very simple designs, but for that time revolutionary. You can see his connecting rod brooch in Avallon and the cam ring in Paris at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. His jewellery showed shapes like
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | LA CHÂTELAINE
aeroplane parts, blades, connecting rods and
art and I worked like a labourer’. And he did.
camshafts. In the course of the decade he
He did not travel much, spend hours and
continued on this base and already in 1933
hours in his atelier and he died childless at
his work became more light, more soft and
the age of 91 in Avallon. Among his
more wearable. ‘Todays designs are just the
collectors were Josephine Baker and Andy
thing for the elegant, light and spontaneous
Warhol.
chic of Parisian women,’ wrote a journalist. He would continue with numerous ideas like the combination of turquoises and pearls, in stainless steel and used themes like theatre, sports and aeronautics.
Where to see his work: M u s é e d A v a l l o n a i s
Després influence on the other artist jewellers was huge. The style of his ‘bijoux moteurs’ inspired other jewellery artists like Raymond Templier, Rene Boivin and Jean Fouquet, but also several chic Maisons like Boucheron, Mauboussin and Chaumet copied the style and brought very elaborate versions on the market in yellow, rose and red gold and set with diamonds and precious stones. Després worked on until his death in 1980. After the Second World War, he started to exhibit his work abroad. He opened a gallery in Paris and divided his life and work
5 , r u e d u c o l l è g e 89200 Avallon www.museeavallonnais.com Musée des Arts Décoratifs 107, Rue Rivoli 75001 Paris http://lesartsdecoratifs.fr Sources and Books Jean Després, Jeweler, Maker and Designer of the Machine Age by Melissa Gabardi Published by Thames and Hudson in Italian, French and English Jean Després: Bijoutier et orfèvre entre Art Deco et modernité by Mellisa Gabardi Published by Norma
between Avallon and Paris. A typical saying of him was: ‘Sketches in Paris, hammer in Avallon’. He found inspiration in Paris and met most of his clients. But he loved life in Avallon, he was a gourmand, a real Bourgignon, he loved food and was member of several gourmet clubs. He always stayed
Due to copyright restrictions, it was impossible to illustrate with photos this article. Please excuse us for the inconvenience.
modest and preferred to see himself as an artisan rather than an artist. He was one of the few artist-jewellers who designed, sketched, planned and made his jewellery himself. He did not wanted to delegate his work and he hated mass production. He said : ‘I love my
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
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FABERGÉ
Jewellery with a story During our recent visit to Fabergé we discover
whilst intricate openwork patterns reminiscent of
the Fabergé Heritage Collection, a collection that
gemstone facets adorn rings and bracelet like a
draws inspiration from Fabergé’s original jewelled
talisman.
masterpieces, capturing their refinement, cultural richness and technical perfection. These signature Fabergé techniques are reinterpreted for an elegant and contemporary look.
In keeping with its fondness for delight and discovery, Fabergé has concealed unexpected surprises within the locket pendants, which embody Peter Carl Fabergé’s philosophy of fusing
In keeping with its fondness for delight and
artistry, craftsmanship and ingenuity.
discovery, Fabergé is thrilled to unveil new surprises: Fabergé Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Ladybird Locket and Fabergé Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Ladybird Locket.
Distinctive and stylish, Fabergé offers a playful interpretation of a popular, stackable accessory. The Fabergé Bangles are a series of comfort fit open-set and crossover bangles, available in white,
Distinctive and stylish, Fabergé offers a playful interpretation of a popular, stackable accessory.
yellow and rose gold, completed with Fabergé’s iconic egg-shape.
The Fabergé Bangles are a series of comfort fit open-set and crossover bangles, available in white, yellow and rose gold, completed with Fabergé’s iconic egg-shape.The Heritage collection draws inspiration from Fabergé’s original jewelled masterpieces, capturing their refinement, cultural richness and technical perfection. Traditional, often complex, materials and techniques such as the delicate art of hot enamelling, the engine turning craft called
These contemporary jewels feature Fabergé’s much-loved designs from quilted gold to pavé-set coloured gems, available in Treillage, Heritage, Rococo and Emotion collections, and can be engraved with a personal message or initials, for a bespoke gift. There versatile and intricate bangles feature vibrant gemstones, sparkling diamonds and vivid guilloché enamel.
guilloché and hand-engraving, make up the
At the Jewellery Historian, we love those new
signature elements of this colourful and opulent
collections that you will definitely see us wearing
collection.
them in one of the public speakings we do or at
These signature Fabergé techniques are
one of the events we attend.
reinterpreted for an elegant and contemporary look. Mesmerising opalescent hot enamel glistens on the curves of Fabergé’s iconic egg pendants,
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Four Leaf Clover Locket Pendant
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Open-set Bangle
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise Ladybird Locket Pendant
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
Rose Gold I Love You Crossover Bangle
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
Yellow Gold Multi-coloured Emotion Open Bangle
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
Rococo Pave Diamond Rose Gold Bangle
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | NEW COLLECTION
Treillage Multi-Coloured Rose Gold Bangle
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Hiver Impérial Page 61
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Hiver Impérial BOUCHERON Boucheron introduces Hiver Impérial, its
Alexander Kelch. Flocon Impérial is a
new collection of high jewelry inspired by the
modern-day vision of these historic creations
aura of the Far East’s vast stretches of snow
and imitates Nature with the perfect geometry
covered land.
of that tiny wonder of symmetry: the snow
When Boucheron opened a shop in
flake.
Moscow in 1897, it was the first French jeweler
For Flocon Impérial, Boucheron was
in the city. Its history is therefore closely tied to
drawn to the natural clarity of rock crystal,
imperial Russia, its Slavic heritage and endless
which has been one of its favorite materials
expanses. Boucheron brings you three main
since the 1980s. Polished to bring out the
themes from these regions: Nature, Couture
desired contrasts, it exhibits a snow flake’s
and Architecture.
most intricate patterns that are usually invisible
Lumière de Nuit depicts the ideal aesthetic of the North’s stunningly unique brilliant white polar landscape. Boucheron finds the mysterious side of nature in the polar
to the naked eye. The set diamonds viewed through the crystal seem to oat and reflect a unique light, giving this piece an abundance of amazing character.
night. Untamed, majestic, powerful – it is no
Flocon Impérial also follows the multiwear
match for humans. The Lumière de Nuit
tradition, with seven detachable parts: a 5.20
chapter captures this force in a huge snow
carat diamond ring, a pair of earrings, a fibula
flake, cascading spinels and a pack of
and hair accessories. With a full set, each piece
Animaux des Neiges (Snow Animals).
can be adapted to suit your mood and your
Flocon Impérial reveals the delicate
out t.
subtleties of a snow flake, enlarged to the scale of high jewelry.
The necklace features a fluid linked design and multiple clasps making it
Boucheron first began putting snow flakes on brooches in 1898. There are dainty lined
extremely lightweight and comfortable to wear.
branches and abstract depictions extended
Grand Nord features a cascade of spinels
with strings of diamonds. In 1906 and 1912,
with a centerpiece that becomes a brooch
Boucheron also created two stunning
with an 8.06 carat emerald-cut diamond.
necklaces for one of its best Russian customers, Barbara Kelch, the granddaughter of gold mines and railroad magnate Ivan Bazanov and wife of the multimillionaire
It is flanked by Animaux des Neiges (Snow Animals) laying on ice floes of precious stones: a 31.21 carat Burmese sapphire for Laïka the husky, a 13.49 carat aquamarine for Arctique
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the polar bear and a pear shape green
created by Boucheron. Alexandra wore it in
tourmaline of 7,28 carats for Foxy the fox, all
most of her of official photos, instead of the
under the watchful eye of Oulu the owl,
traditional kokoshnik headdress, which was
Ladoga the raccoon and Lyncas the lynx.
quite heavy.
An exceptional timepiece in the shape of
Baïkal is an imperial bodice front
Laika the husky, maliciously watches the time
adorned with more than 2000 Akoya pearls.
y through the rock crystal lake.
To ensure the maximum comfort of a
Femmes Boréales celebrates the strength and beauty of women in wintry climates, contemporary empresses and queens, wrapped in pearls and precious stones.
jeweler’s touch, the multiple strands are strung on silk thread and connected with aquamarines, moonstones and diamond slivers that tie together the set’s elegance and style. The studio created a ribbon of
Femmes Boréales harks back to the
aquamarines beads corseted on the back of
traditional dress and imperial jewelry sets
the necklace so that it can be adjusted as
lavishly embellished with pearls, diamonds
needed and lays perfectly on the neck.
and precious stones, that have been given modern air for contemporary queens.
A huge 78.33 carat oval Santa Maria aquamarine island echoes the crystal clear
The Baïkal bodice front with aquamarines
blue waters of the Baïkal lake. As an ode to
floating like blue islands represents the icy,
imperial jewels and dress, it is decorated with
pure and crystalline waters of the lake of the
pearls and pear shape diamonds set on
same name.
moonstones. The juxtaposition of pillowy
In 1858, pearls were the height of luxury and refinement. They could be worth more than diamonds. At the time, a pearl necklace was the most beautiful piece of jewelry you
white pearls and wintery icy blues gives the necklace an ultra-feminine blend of contrast and harmony with strings of diamond-set lace to accent the choker.
could give to a woman. Their radiance
Perles Australes and Nevesta epitomize
fascinated Frédéric Boucheron, who spent
the elegance and refinement of haute
over 10 years searching for the most stunning
couture. Perles Australes is classic Boucheron
mother-of-pearl to make an exceptional
with an ever-more creative interpretation. The
necklace of natural pearls for the love of his
pearl Pompon necklace is a brand new
life, Gabrielle Boucheron.
version of the twisted chain, this time in
At Boucheron, pearls are intertwined with
mother-of-pearl and diamonds.
countless love stories, like for the last Russian
Alternating baguette diamonds and
emperors. On the occasion of his marriage to
round diamonds creates a very graphic chain
Alix de Hesse-Darmstadt, granddaughter of
design, coupled with the Boucheron ring of
Queen Victoria, the future Tsar Nicolas II gave
light. Nevesta draws the eye to a stunning
his wife a delicate pearl and diamond crown
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
FLOCON IMPÉRIAL Necklace set with a 5,20 ct E VVS1 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear. Page 72
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Earrings detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Ring detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
FLOCON IMPÉRIAL Necklace set with a 5,20 ct E VVS1 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear. Page 75
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Brooch detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Brooch detached from the Flocon Impérial necklace
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
FLOCON IMPÉRIAL Necklace set with a 5,20 ct E VVS1 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear. Page 80
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
FEUILLE Brooch set with a 0,55 ct oval diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 82
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Earrings set with rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
GIVRE Ring set with a 5,01 ct E VVS1 round diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 84
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BRANCHE Brooch set with ebene wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 86
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 87
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 88
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 89
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BOULE DE NEIGE Ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 90
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
FLOCON Ring set with a 0,70 ct D VVS2 round diamond and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 91
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
FLOCON Pendant set with a 0,75 ct E VVS2 round diamond and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 92
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
LAÏKA,LE HUSKY Ring set with a 31,21 ct burmese light greyish-blue antique cushion sapphire, grey spinels and sapphires, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 94
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
OULU, LA CHOUETTE Ring set with yellow sapphires and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 95
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
FOXY, LA RENARDE Ring set with a 7,28 ct green pear tourmaline and emeralds, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 96
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
LAÏKA,LE HUSKY Timepiece in white gold, diamonds, sapphires, spinels, rock crystal and jade. Page 98
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
GRAND NORD Ring set with rock crystal filled with black spinels, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 100
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
LISERET Ring set with a 6,03 ct D VVS2 emerald-cut diamond and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 102
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
GRAND NORD Necklace set with a 8,06 ct E VVS2 emerald-cut diamond, onyx and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 103
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
GRAND NORD Necklace set with a 8,06 ct E VVS2 emerald-cut diamond, onyx and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 104
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
GRAND NORD Necklace set with a 8,06 ct E VVS2 emerald-cut diamond, onyx and black lacquer, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 105
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
GRAND NORD Bracelet set with black spinels, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 107
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
LADOGA,LE RATON LAVEUR Ring set with black sapphires and wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 108
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
NŒUD Ring set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 110
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BAÏKAL Ring set with a 24,87 ct Santa Maria pear aquamarine and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 111
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
PERLE IMPÉRIALE Ring set with a 17 mm round South Sea cultured pearl, paved with diamonds and freshwater cultured pearls, on white gold. Page 114
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
DIAMANT IMPÉRIAL Ring set with a 3,55 ct E VVS2 pear diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 115
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
NEVESTA Necklace set with a 9,29 ct D VVS2 pear diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 116
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
JOYA Ring set with a 19,92 ct Ceylon sugar-loaf cabochon sapphire and diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 118
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BAÏKAL Necklace set with a 78,33 ct Santa Maria oval aquamarine, moonstones and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds and aquamarines, on white gold. Page 122
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BANQUISE Ring set with a 5,33 ct F VVS1 oval diamond and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 123
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
BAÏKAL Earrings set with one 12,08 ct Santa Maria pear aquamarine and one 11,74 ct Santa Maria pear aquamarine and cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 124
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
POMPON KOKOCHNIK Necklace set with diamonds, paved with diamonds, on white gold.Necklace in the traditon of the multiwear. Page 125
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
NUIT ETOILÉE Earrings set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 126
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
POMPON Earrings set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 127
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
POMPON Necklace set with Akoya cultured pearls and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 128
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
NUIT ETOILÉE Bracelet set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 129
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
NUIT ETOILÉE Ring set with Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 130
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
9.29 carat pear shape diamond clearly poised
domes in Rostov, glistening in the snow. The
to become the latest classic.
enchanting circle hangs from a Boucheron
L’Anneau d’Or (The Golden Ring) offers a panoramic view of the rooftops, cupolas and onion domes of Russia’s ancient princely towns. It is an ode to the imperial cities of Russia where the rooftops, cupolas and onion domes transform into a kaleidoscope of medallions. Boucheron also takes design elements from the Slavic Naryshkin Baroque architectural style of North-East Moscow, as
ring of light, the part of a chain with an invisible clasp that has various sizes of diamonds arranged on it to create a shifting light effect. The peak of the dome is crowned with a round 4.14 carat diamond. There are four different ways to wear the piece: as a long necklace, double strand or choker, then the medallion can be taken off and worn as a brooch.
seen in ultra-graphic necklaces, rings and
Boucheron has always been
earrings in colors inspired by the northern
experimenting with new materials. Rock
light on a winter’s day and the crystal-clear
crystal, Makrana marble from the same
night.
quarries used to build the Taj Mahal, sand
Rostov is a boldly inlaid vision of this captivating city’s countless gold and silver cupolas.
from the Thar Desert in Rajasthan for the Bleu de Jodhpur collection, and so on. For Hiver Impérial, Boucheron is bringing wood back to high jewelry. The design studio is taking this
In 1905, Boucheron began changing with
natural material to new heights after
the times by offering highly re ned pendants
conducting extensive research to give it the
and medallions that a new clientele could
quintessential silver patina of the wooden
wear during the day and at night to
buildings weathered by the cold and time in
accessorize their ball gowns. Many new skills
Russia’s Golden Ring. The Maison is extremely
had to be brought in to produce the enamel
familiar with this material. It was first used to
miniatures, gold pierced-work and carved
create small decorative objects including
scenery crafted on honeycomb or actual lace.
powder compacts, boxwood fans and
For Rostov, the design studio drew inspiration
cigarette cases. Alain Boucheron later made
from early 20th century geometric
jewelry with snakewood in the 1970s.
medallions, with openworked motifs that could be embellished with pearls and diamonds.
Kokoshnik recalls the striking domes of Russian architecture. Great arches of diamonds accentuate the deep intensity of
Rostov is an oversized medallion inlaid
the 7.54 carat Royal Blue Burmese sapphire
with wood and diamonds to represent a
and 10.98 carat oval-cut Burmese sapphire.
dome as seen from above. The studio used a
The rock crystal dome, on this necklace,
beautiful series of intricate cutouts to depict
encapsulates 20.31 carat of diamonds.
tiles superimposed on the roofs. They have a silvery hue reminiscent of the colors of the
The sleek lines of Marqueterie are based on characteristic Naryshkin Baroque shapes.
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KOKOCHNIK Ring set with a 10,98 ct Burmese oval sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 132
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KOKOCHNIK Ring set with a 10,98 ct Burmese oval sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 134
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
KOKOCHNIK Necklace set with a 7,54 ct Burmese Royal Blue cushion sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 135
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
KOKOCHNIK Necklace set with a 7,54 ct Burmese Royal Blue cushion sapphire and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 136
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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MARQUETERIE Ring set with blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 138
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
MARQUETERIE Necklace set with grey buff top moonstones and buff top onyx, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 139
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
MARQUETERIE Timepiece in white gold, diamonds, buff top moonstones and buff top onyx. Page 140
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
MARQUETERIE Bracelet set with blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 141
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
MARQUETERIE Necklace set with blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 142
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
YAROSLOV Necklace set with a 4,60 ct E VVS2 cushion diamond and rock crystal, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Earrings set with a 2,11 ct F VVS2 cushion diamond and a 2,09 ct F VVS2 cushion diamond, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 144
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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DÔME GRAPHIQUE Earrings set with a 3,25 ct pear tanzanite and a 3,27 ct pear tanzanite, blue chalcedonies and Akoya cultured pearls, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 146
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
DÔME GRAPHIQUE Ring set with a 12,41 ct pear tanzanite, Akoya cultured pearls and a blue chalcedony, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 147
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
DÔME GRAPHIQUE Ring set with a 12,41 ct pear tanzanite, Akoya cultured pearls and a blue chalcedony, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 148
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ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear. Page 153
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear. Page 154
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear. Page 155
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
ROSTOV Necklace set with a 4,14 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Necklace in the tradition of the multiwear. Page 156
Photo courtesy of BOUCHERON © BOUCHERON
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
ROSTOV Earrings set with aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 157
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
ROSTOV Ring set with a 2,55 ct E VVS2 round diamond and aspen wood, paved with diamonds, on white gold. Page 159
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HAUTE JOAILLERIE
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Boucheron has created versions in two color palettes. One is in shades of blue, blue chalcedonies and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds. The other is paved with buffed onyx, diamonds and gray moonstones buffed with astounding brilliance. The geometric harmony of snow flakes, frozen waterfalls, wildlife with frost-covered fur, snowy rooftops... A high jewelry collection of diamonds, pearls and precious stones sparkling in the wintertime. Maison Boucheron was founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron and has continued to evolve ever since under the leadership of four generations of his direct descendants. Boucheron was the first jeweler on Place Vendôme and its visionary designs have made the Maison a byword for excellence in jewelry, high jewelry and watchmaking. With its bold and free-spirited style, it is constantly creating the classics of tomorrow. Boucheron now has more than 55 retail outlets around the world and is part of Kering Group, a world leader in the luxury, sport and lifestyle sectors. We l c o m e t o B o u c h e r o n ’s w i n t e r wonderland. Fo r f u r t h e r i n f o r m a t i o n v i s i t a BOUCHERON boutique or the official website at www.boucheron.com
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
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CARLO PALMIERO Jewels born out of dreams
Carlo Palmiero, founder of Palmiero
They are inspired to geometric shapes,
Jewellery Design, represents the artistic
nature, artistic references to the style of great
avant-garde per excellence in the high
20th Century painters... Genius, skill and
jewellery sector. Since the very beginning he
passion shine through each piece.
bucks the trend, constantly modifies the standards of classical jewellery by moving the attention from the centre to the whole object surface, by enlarging the shapes and by a d d i n g c o l o u r. H i s r i n g s a re re a l three-dimensional sculptures enriched by the unique and unrepeatable gemstone colour shades.
Creations by Carlo Palmiero go beyond design and find their completeness in the precious stones whose pureness and quality make them unique: white, black, cognac, blue, green, yellow and purple diamonds, sapphires that fade gently like blue, pink and yellow watercolours, royal topazes, tanzanites, rubellites, opals... they are precious timeless
A jewel can describe shapes and colours, communicate intense emotions, confine the
objects, characterized by a style that is the flawless union of past and present.
world and represent it, unleash the passion of the person who creates it, the person who donates it and the person who wears it. is is what a Palmiero’s jewel is, precious matter transformed into a work of art.
Could you tell us about the origin of your pas- sion for the jewellery art? I have always been a child with a great imagination. I used to spend hours assembling and disassembling objects, creating and molding
Palmiero’s jewels are unique and
tiny wax jewels. In the jewellery art I finally
inimitable objects, characterized by a refined,
found the way to give expression to what
plastic and unmistakable style. They are ideas
appeared to be my most natural gift : manual
translated into shapes and colours that show
skill. The opportunity I had to observe and
great experience and incredible creativity,
work with the greatest master goldsmiths of
they are recognizable at first glance.
Valenza contributed to arise my curiosity
Palmiero’s collections stem from a gold jewellery tradition which for years has produced a limited number of pieces,
towards jewellery. I thus started to grow a passion for this art, whose techniques and secrets I deeply wanted to learn about.
sometimes unique pieces, since anyone can
Which important role did Valenza play
enjoy the privilege of a very personal choice,
in your artistic education and career?
anywhere. It is a selection that can satisfy all
Of course, a great importance. When I arrived
needs, if choice is guided by taste, style and
in Valenza in the 60’s, I immediately remained
personality.
fascinated by the long artisanal history and
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tradition of the town. Here like nowhere else
but I believe in curiosity and in my “childish”
many master goldsmiths gathered together.
eyes creative artists never lose, even when
ere were laboratories at every corner. As a
they are 100 years old!
young boy, I was inevitably attracted by gold. I remember that what fascinated me the most were the stories of the first master goldsmiths Vincenzo Moroset- ti and his apprentice Vincenzo Melchiorre. Since 1875 in Valenza, they gave life to one of the greatest goldsmith schools in Italy and in the world.
Who has never dreamt about shapes which resemble nature but in nature do not exist? Ensemble of images which at night become uncertain objects able to surprise us, leaving an impression of pleasantness at the awakening. Carlo Palmiero becomes the interpreter of those dreams and in his jewels
When were the first jewels that bear your name created? The first jewels were
makes the allure perceived during oneiric visions tangible.
realized in the small laboratory I decided to
“Lotus”
open in the 70’s , in which I used to give birth to objects characterized by small dimensions
Precious jewels whose soft and delicate
but already strong personality. A er some
shapes are inspired by lotus flowers leaves.
years, in 1979, I founded Palmiero Jewellery
The objets plasticity and three-dimensionality,
Design. Nowadays the company is an
colour shades and attention to detail once
a v a n t - g a rd e l a b o rat o r y f o r j e w e l l e r y
again suggest the creators’ hand.
manufacture, how do you succeed in keeping
“Acanto”
alive the old goldsmith tradition? The new laboratory-atelier was opened in Valenza in 2007, the high technology of the laboratory makes us one of the forefront companies in the jewel manufacture. At the same time, it remains a large artisanal laboratory, in which manual skill is exalted and expressed through the ability of highly qualified goldsmiths and stone-setters. Thanks to them the brand appears in the most prestigious and select boutiques of the world.
In flower language, the acanthus represents prestige and material wealth. Its beauty was already recognized during the Classical period, when the acanthus leaf was used in architecture as ornament made of stone, marble or wood or used to embellish eminent personalities’ clothes. Carlo Palmiero knows its elegance, and by taking inspiration from ancient ideals of aesthetics, he chooses the acanthus as new protagonist of his Collection. “Colibri”
What’s inspiration according to Carlo Palmiero? Inspiration is a feeling difficult to
Small dreamy bird, fragments of rainbow,
explain. It could be a flower, a petal, a dew
precious stone and flower converted into
drop on a blade of glass, a particular
animal... the hummingbird has attracted
architecture, a piece of cloth seen during a
many and it has been described in different
fashion show... I do not believe in a “muse”,
ways. In Palmiero’s Collection, it is depicted in
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Lotus Flowers: rings in white and black diamonds and coloured sapphires on white gold.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Lotus Flower: ring in white and coloured diamonds and sapphires on white gold.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Acanto Collection: ring and earrings in white and coloured diamonds on white gold.
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a scene which seems to be directly taken
Ti n y i s t h e n e w j e w e l l e r y w at c h
from an oneiric vision. Lightness and magic to
belonging to the Luxury Collection, fully set in
wear.
the highest quality white diamonds. Swiss movement, Italian design and manufacture,
Masterpieces : captured stones
squared dial, distinct dimensions,
A leaf goblet in degraded diamond pavé setting surrounds, sustains and beautifies the
harmonious proportions for a timeless splendor and elegance.
precious central stone. An intense magnificent tanzanite is framed with the most precious white diamonds.
At the Jewellery Historian we are always honored and proud to showcase the exceptional work of one of the most talented Italian artists, Carlo Palmiero, an artist we
“Soft flowers” A multitude of tiny flowers sweetly covers
appreciate a lot.
the hand of the person who wears it and
You can also read the issue 15 of the
gently follows the movements. Goldsmith
Jewellery Historian and discover past work
techniques and elegance combine and give
and collections.
life to important rings of so and sublime shapes. “Alter” by Palmiero : Three dials in One Following months of research and design, Carlo Palmiero has given life to Alter. is unique jewellery watch, whose technique is patented, has been completely manufactured inside the Italian firm’s atelier and is equipped with Swiss movement. It shows top creativity, top quality and top manufacture of Made in Italy. Watches are manufactured in limited edition: fifty pieces per colour. Alter means “changing”. Pyramidal facets turn alternately so that the precious time-piece changes into three different “faces”: a shaded pink sapphire dial, an astonishing white diamond dial and a gold-diamond numbered dial. For all occasions, a dream to wear... Tiny : luxury collection
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Tiny Watch, Luxury Edition: jewellery watch fully set in white diamonds on yellow gold
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Acanto collection: necklace in white diamonds and semiprecious stones on white gold.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Acanto collection: earrings and ring in white diamonds on white gold.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Hummingbird (Colibri) Necklace in white diamonds, sapphires, semiprecious stones and chalcedony on white gold.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Hummingbird (Colibri) Earrings and ring in white diamonds, sapphires, semiprecious stones and chalcedony on white gold.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Captured Stones: ring in white and coloured diamonds and rubellite on white gold
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Alter Watch Pink: jewellery watch in white diamonds and pink sapphires on rose gold
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Captured Stones: ring in white diamonds and tanzanite on white gold
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Alter Watch Blue: jewellery watch in white diamonds and blue sapphires on white gold
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Soft Flower Collection: ring in white and coloured diamonds on white gold
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | JEWELS BORN OUT OF DREAMS
Soft Flower Collection: ring in white diamonds and rubies on white gold
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 72 Formerly From The Collection Of Mrs. Severance Millikin, Cleveland, Ohio Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, France Designed as a bird, centering an oval-shaped cabochon emerald, set with round diamonds, accented by round and cabochon rubies, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 75450, with French assay and maker's marks; circa 1957. Estimate $10/15,000 “I love to use birds and flowers as accessories during the day. This brooch reminds me of my grandmother, Estée.” Page 181
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
FINE JEWELS AT SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK Aerin Lauder Selects Day & Night Looks From the 300+ Jewels on Offer, Including Pieces from Her Personal Collection Sold to Benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation® Sotheby’s is pleased to present the first
Le Jour Parfum (for daytime) and Tuberose Le
major jewelry auction of the fall season in New
Soir Parfum (for nighttime), Lauder is
York on 17 October 2017. Our Fine Jewels
partnering with Sotheby’s to explore this
sale features a variety of vintage and
inescapable dichotomy in the realms of both
contemporary pieces from renowned makers
fragrance and jewelry by selecting and
such as Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and
commenting on her favorite pieces for day
Cartier, important mid-century designs from
and for night.
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin and Marianne Ostier, and an impressive array of classic white diamond and colored stone rings in a variety of shapes and sizes. With more than 300 jewels on offer, carrying estimates starting from $3,000 up to $200,000, the Fine Jewels auction provides opportunities for both new and established collectors to acquire treasures for every style and occasion. All works from the sale will be on public exhibition in our York Avenue galleries from 13 – 17 October, and we welcome visitors to view and try on the entire selection of jewels.
JEWELS FROM THE COLLECTION OF AERIN LAUDER SOLD TO BENEFIT THE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATION® In December 2012, Sotheby’s was honored to offer a collection of magnificent jewels from the collections of Estée Lauder and Evelyn H. Lauder. Sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF), the highest-rated breast cancer organization in the country, the auction culminated in the sale of an exquisite Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring from the collection of Evelyn H. Lauder, BCRF founder, which achieved a spectacular $8.6 million to support research.
AERIN LAUDER & SOTHEBY’S JEWELS
Almost five years after this auction, at
Many of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer’s
Sotheby’s the Lauder legacy continues by
earliest memories are those of her
presenting jewels from the collection of Aerin
grandmother Estée, specifically in terms of her
Lauder, with proceeds benefiting the BCRF. A
scent and her jewelry. Estée’s affinity for bold
bold, geometric ring by David Webb
statement jewels and the importance of
highlighted by rock crystal accented with
updating one’s look for daytime and evening
diamonds presents a playful option for
is one that inspired Aerin as she launched her
daytime, while a bombé styled ring studded
eponymous brand in 2012, after two decades
with diamonds and textured gold by Van Cleef
of working in various divisions of Estée Lauder
& Arpels makes for a glamorous evening
Inc.
addition. As she prepares to debut the new AERIN
Tuberose Collection, which features Tuberose Page 182
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 11 Property From A Distinguished Private Collection, New York, Sold To Benefit Charitable Initiatives Gem-Set and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, France Of floral design, centering a round cabochon ruby, accented by rubies, sapphires and emeralds, surrounded by numerous round diamonds, size 6¾, signed VCA, Made in France, numbered NY 5K912-1, with French assay and workshop marks. Estimate $5/7,000 “There is nothing more classic than a great gold ring.” Page 183
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 50 Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, Cartier, France Composed of a line of elephant motifs set with round diamonds, accented by emerald-set eyes, length 7½ inches, signed Cartier, numbered 648789, with French assay and maker's mark. With signed box. Estimate $40/60,000 “Safari-inspired style. I love the idea of adding a little animal charm to your day.”
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 77 Pair of Coral Earclips, David Webb Each set with coral beads accented by gold ropetwist, signed Webb. Estimate $8/12,000 “These coral earrings feel so modern and easy to wear.”
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 186 Property From The Estate Of Charlotte Garson, Atlanta, Georgia Gold and Diamond Necklace and Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, France In tubogas style, composed of flexible gold links, embellished with a buckle motif set with round diamonds, total gross weight approximately 136 dwts, necklace length 15 inches and bracelet length 6¾ inches, signed VCA, Made in France, numbered NY 58811 and NY 58812 respectively, with French assay and workshop marks. Estimate $8/12,000 “This diamond necklace and bracelet pair would complete any look.” Page 186
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 129 Property From An Estate, California Gold and Ruby Bracelet, Boucheron, France Composed of interwoven textured and polished gold, the front set with round rubies and completed by a gold tassel, gross weight approximately 69 dwts, length 6¾ inches, signed Boucheron, with French assay and partial workshop marks. Estimate $4/6,000 “I love how this gold and ruby Boucheron bracelet almost feels like a ribbon.” Page 187
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 182 Property From The Estate Of Charlotte Garson, Atlanta, Georgia Pair of Coral and Diamond Earclips, David Webb Composed of two fluted carved coral half-hoops, lined with round diamonds, signed Webb. Estimate $6/8,000 “I love coral David Webb pieces. They represent timeless elegance and go perfectly with white or black fashion.”
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 36 Property From The Estate Of Virginia Ridder Pair of Cultured Pearl and Diamond Earclips, David Webb Set with two cultured pearls measuring approximately 12.0 mm each, accented by round diamonds, signed Webb. Estimate $6/8,000 “I would wear these David Webb earrings for a fun night out.”
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 154 Property From An Estate, California Gold and Diamond 'Cheveux d'Ange' Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, France The gold links of chevron design gathered at the side in a bow set with round diamonds, gross weight approximately 61 dwts, length 18 inches, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, made in France, numbered 34335, with partial French workshop marks; circa 1960. Estimate $10/15,000 “A diamond and gold bow wonderfully complements a cocktail dress.”
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 2 Property From A New York Estate Pair of Diamond Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels Of cluster design, set with round diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered N.Y. 7698. With signed box. Estimate $15/20,000 “A great pair of diamond earrings is a timeless choice for evening.”
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 210 Property Of An Important Private Collector Diamond Clip-Brooch Of floral design, the center set with a round diamond, the petals pavé-set with smaller round diamonds, one diamond missing. Estimate $8/12,000 “This diamond rose brooch is beautiful worn on a dress, sweater or blazer.” Very Rare and Important 13.26 carat Ruby and Diamond Ring, Designed and Mounted by BHAGAT
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 156 Property From An Estate, California Gold and Diamond Purse, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Two-Color Gold Clutch The purse of woven design, composed of gold mesh and a chain, the front closure embellished with round diamonds, opening to reveal a mirror, gross weight approximately 138 dwts, signed Van Cleef et Arpels, numbered 70216 and 2950, with French assay and workshop marks; the clutch of similar design, composed of two-color gold, gross weight approximately 64 dwts, with Italian registry mark. Estimate $6/8,000 “This Van Cleef gold evening bag is the ultimate luxurious accessory for evening.” Page 193
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 296 From The Collection Of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, Sold To Benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation Gold and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels Of bombé form, centering three rows of round diamonds, accented by gold ropework and foliate motifs further set with round diamonds, gross weight approximately 12 dwts, size 5½, signed VCA, numbered 43097; circa 1970. Estimate $8/12,000
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AUCTION
Lot 295 From The Collection Of Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, Sold To Benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation Gold, Rock Crystal and Diamond Ring, David Webb Centering a triangle-shaped rock crystal, accented by baguette and triangle-shaped diamonds, size 5¾. Estimate $4/6,000
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WALLACE CHAN Persistence in Innovation
Wallace Chan will give in October a talk at Harvard University and take part in a dialogue on jewelry creation with museum curators. He will also exhibit in TETAF New York with new pieces. Recognized as a top jewelry artist and innovator, we are honored to feature Wallace Chan’s one-of-a-kind latest creations, creations that reflect his Zen philosophy and reveal unique craftsmanship invented by his persistence in innovation.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Jewelry creator Wallace Chan will give a
Fall. As the only Chinese jewelry artist at the
talk at Harvard University in October at the
fair, he will showcase approximately 20
invitation of Harvard Museums of Science and
jewelry creations and a titanium sculpture.
Culture. Co-hosted with the Museum of Fine
Wallace Chan – The Creator
Arts, Boston, the event, titled “The Art and Artistry of Wallace Chan,” will be chaired by
In 1973, Wallace Chan became a
Jane Pickering, Executive Director of Harvard
gemstone-carving apprentice and started his
Museums of Science and Culture. Following
journey of creation which has continued for
the presentation, Wallace Chan will engage in
over 40 years. A high level of curiosity and a
a dialogue on gemstones, creation, and the
strong thirst for knowledge have been
art of jewelry with Dr. Raquel Alonso-Perez,
behind his constant experiments in gemstone
Curator of the Mineralogical and Geological
cutting, carving, setting, metallurgy,
Museum, Harvard University, and Dr. Emily
mechanical engineering, and metal
Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B.
soldering. Navigating through numerous
Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of
twists and turns, he strives for the ultimate
Fine Arts, Boston. The audience will include
perfection in his creations. As an
the members of the Fashion Council of the
exc e p t i o n a l l y p e rc e p t i v e p e r s o n , h e
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, as well as
embraces the experiences and energy
faculty members and students at Harvard.
coming from interacting with materials and
Wallace Chan is known internationally for his exceptional work as a jewelry artist and innovator. Gemstones have been the focus of his life for over forty years, since becoming a carving apprentice at the age of sixteen. His innovations have included the use of titanium
incorporates them in the fine details of his pieces. As a creator, he infuses his passion, dreams, and philosophies in each of his pieces which elicit intense visual aesthetic perceptions and evoke strong emotional responses in viewers.
in jewelry creation, the invention of a
Over the long history of jewelry making,
patented jadeite thinning and
Wa l l a c e C h a n h a s s t o o d o u t w i t h
luminosity-enhancing technology, and the
unconventional creations to mark his
use of unique gemstone settings without
uniqueness. After 8 years of independent
metal claws. In this presentation, Wallace
research, he discovered and mastered the
Chan will share the philosophies, inspirations,
technology to use titanium, a light-weight but
emotions, and processes behind his artwork.
strong metal, in jewelry. He invented the
This is Wallace Chan’s latest talk after his previous speeches at Cooper Hewitt Museum (New York), V&A Museum (London), and Central Saint Martins (London).
jadeite thinning and luminosity-enhancing technology and received a patent for it. His unique Wallace Cut, an illusionary carving technique, is truly extraordinary. Innovation has been a key attribute in everything
After the talk, Wallace Chan will exhibit at
Wa l l a c e C h a n d o e s , f ro m m at e r i a l s ,
The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) New York
craftsmanship, and tools, to styles of creation,
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Sea of Joy Brooch / Sculpture Crystal/Opal, Yellow Diamond, Citrine, Lapis Lazuli, Opal, Onyx, Pink Sapphire, Tsavorite Garnet, Sapphire, Diamond, Titanium Page 200
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Sea of Joy Brooch / Sculpture Crystal/Opal, Yellow Diamond, Citrine, Lapis Lazuli, Opal, Onyx, Pink Sapphire, Tsavorite Garnet, Sapphire, Diamond, Titanium Page 201
Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 203
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
subject matters, exploration of symbolic
three-dimensional intaglio creates mysterious
connotations, and ways of exhibition
illusions on a transparent stone and
presentation. Constant innovation has put
established Wallace Chan’s status as a master
him at the forefront of the jewelry world of
sculptor.
our time.
Patented Jade Technique
In recent years, Wallace Chan has been featured extensively in international media. He is also the first Chinese jewelry artist to showcase his creations at several international exhibitions: Masterpiece London (2017 & 2016), TEFAF (2017 & 2016, Maastricht & New York), and Biennale des Antiquaires (2012 & 2014, Paris). In 2015, his very first illustrated monograph was published by Rizzoli. In the same year, he was invited by Christie’s to hold a solo exhibition at the HKCEC. He was invited to deliver talks at Central Saint Martins (2017, London), the V&A Museum (2016, London), and the Cooper Hewitt Museum (2015, New York).
Jade has always been highly valued by the Chinese. With a smooth and glossy texture, jade evokes feelings of nostalgia. However, applying jade in contemporary jewelry design calls for a modern take on it. Wallace Chan’s profound knowledge of light and jade enabled him to invent the jade refining and brightening technique to send light racing and pulsating along jade surfaces. Green refractions then magnify each other and sharpen the deep green colors. This technique received a patent of invention in 2002. Titanium Mastery
Wallace Chan praises life and nature
Titanium is a sought-after material for
through the charm of gemstones with
modern technology. It is strong, light,
limitless imagination and creative talent. He is
hypoallergenic and colorful. In traditional
recognized as a top jewelry creator, artist and
jewelry pieces, gold or platinum is often used
innovator.
to set gemstones. But the weight of titanium is only 1/5 of that of gold with the same
The Wallace Chan Innovations
volume. Wallace Chan spent 8 years on the
Wallace Cut
research of titanium before mastering it in
The Wallace Cut was invented in 1987 by Wallace Chan. It is an illusionary carving technique based on reverse thinking, combined with precise calculation, gem faceting, and 360-degree intaglio, to create multiple reflections. Wallace Chan also invented tools for it and had to complete the carving process in water to prevent damage
jewelry creation. Using titanium to set gemstones means the jewelry creation is light and comfortable to wear. Moreover, the use and visibility of metal in between stones could be minimized. At Baselworld 2007, Wallace Chan turned a new page in the world of haute joaillerie with his “sculptural art creations that are wearable”.
to the stone by dissipating heat generated by the modified dental drill. This highly original
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The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 205
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Gemstone-setting-gemstone Technique
WALLACE CHAN AT TETAF NEW YORK
In traditional jewelry making techniques,
Jewelry creator Wallace Chan this
metal claws are often used to set gemstones.
autumn is also returning to the renowned
However, Wallace Chan always tries to
TEFAF New York Fall to showcase his highly
minimize the use of metal in order to reveal
original and artistic jewelry and art creations.
the stone’s colors, brilliance and charm to the
More than 20 pieces of jewelry and 1 titanium
greatest extent possible. Following this line of
sculpture will be exhibited, most of which are
thought, he invented the technique to set
on show for the first time in New York. With
one gemstone with another: “diamond claw
the fair taking place at the Park Avenue
setting method” and “inner mortise and
Armory between October 27 and November
tenon setting method”. The former allows
1, its impressive offerings will draw in
diamonds and other gemstones to function
prestigious collectors, experts, curators, and
as claws to secure gemstones in place. The
art lovers from around the world.
latter is a method inspired by the Ming-style furniture (15-17 BC), famous for their mortise
TEFAF New York Fall
and tenon joints. Gemstones are given
In 2016, with years of successful
special cuts to form mortise and tenon joints
experience at Maastricht, TEFAF launched its
so they could fit perfectly without the use of
first American edition of the fair in New York
metal claws.
to present artworks spanning over 7,000 of art history. The second edition of TEFAF New
Secret Abyss
York Fall will run from October 27 to
The setting of this creation is magical and
November 1 at the famous Park Avenue
mysterious and took ten years from concept
Armory, with the VIP Preview and Opening
to completion. Through a 6.5mm opening,
Night Reception taking place on the 27th.
Wallace Chan drilled and polished a tunnel of 42x7mm inside the rutilated quartz before setting 1111 emeralds to form the auspicious cloud pattern. When you look at it, it is like a secret abyss with gleaming, meandering clouds.
The Park Avenue Armory is a historic brick building completed in 1880 and covers 55,000-square-foot on the Upper East Side, providing a platform for creativity across all art forms. This 136-year-old former home of the Seventh Regiment is now a
From drilling, polishing, to setting, the
groundbreaking not-for-profit art and cultural
entire creation process required
institution. In 2000, it was listed among the
extraordinary focus and determination,
“100 Most Endangered Historic Sites in the
similar to what a magician needs to unlock
World” by the World Monuments Fund.
and free himself from a water tank. Every single movement has to be done with total
TEFAF (The European Fine Art Foundation)
concentration while holding the breath, without any lapse.
TEFAF is the world’s most prestigious art fair. It is the premier destination for experts
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 207
Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 208
Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
The Waves Transformable Brooch, Necklace, Bracelet Pear-shaped Tsavorite Garnet 1pc 10.70ct, Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Titanium Page 209
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
from the world’s best museums such as
composed with colorful stones and body is
Musée du Louvre, Metropolitan Museum of
made from eye-catching opal reflected
Art and the British Museum when it comes to
through crystal. The bubbles weightlessly
acquiring artworks. It is also a must-see event
float in the air, dancing freely, and rising
for the most elusive private collectors.
beyond the material realm. Swimming
In keeping with its core values of Excellence, Expertise, and Elegance, TEFAF
contently in the rising ocean spiral, the fish lives out eternal joy beyond reality.
selects exhibitors against strict criteria and
Th e Wa v e s ӕ Tra n s f o r m a b l e B ro o c h ,
meticulously examines all the artworks. The
Necklace, Bracelet
vetting committee is made up of 175 international experts in 29 different categories. The objects exhibited represent over 7,000 years of art history from the classical period to the 20th century in 9 sections: Antiques, Classical Antiquities, Curated, Design, Haute Joaillerie, Modern,
“One little movement and the world moves. The air moves across my ears and I hear it -- the little butterfly -- I hear its movements. It makes waves every time it flaps wings. I feel changes. I hear its wings dancing with the beams of the sun.
Paintings, Paper and Showcase.
Is it real? Or is it just my imagination?”
New creations : Hightlights
The seemingly singular creation can transform into 8 styles, from an ornate brooch
Sea of JoyӕBrooch / Sculpture
to an elegant necklace or a simple, delicate
Blue titanium waves swirl around a
bracelet. The tsavorite garnet forming the
natural formed crystal mountain; exquisitely
butterfly’s body can be detached from the
placed colored sapphires accentuate the
wings to compose the dynamic and playful
liquid’s movement. As the water twists, the
variations to bring delightful surprises.
fish ascends into the sky, defying nature.
The multi-dimensional amethyst wings
Carried by air, the sea dwelling creature
have been acutely carved with exquisite
encounters a new and unusual situation. The
craftsmanship. The jewel captures a butterfly
fish gains a new perspective of the universe
in motion: fluttering in the sky, the wings
beyond its reality. For a fish above the ocean,
come in contact with the wind and glisten
the illusion of reality would be transformed;
under the sunlight. The fluid curves of the
prior existence would have been entirely
wings look like water with waves generated
below the surface of the sea, altered by the
by the creature’s gestures. These waves also
movement of the waves and distorted by the
symbolize sound from the movement,
magnification of water—what one perceives is
surrounding the body like a piece of music.
not always the truth.
Diamonds are set between the titanium
Removable from the sculptural base, the
and amethyst, altering light through the
fish becomes a brooch. The delicate fins are
translucent gemstone. The interaction of light
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Wonders of Life Earrings (detail) Diamond 2pcs 4.02ct and DIF Diamond 2 pcs 1.49ct, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Emerald, Crystal, Tsavorite Garnet and Titanium Page 211
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
playing off of the gemstones creates
will stay stable without drilling any hole
reflections that add a new perception of
through the pink sapphire, ensuring the
depth. Around the wings’ edges, diamonds
gemstone stays intact.
a re s e t o n t i t a n i u m , a d d i n g f u rt h e r dimensionality as the butterfly glides through the air.
Culminating at the apex of the earring, the white diamond flower blooms. The creator was inspired by the neurons joining, resulting in the brilliant floral structure
Wonders of LifeӕEarrings Originating from a pinecone—fruit from one of the world’s most ancient trees—the seeds of life blossom into flowers.
symbolizing life and hope. A heart-shaped pink sapphire is set at the base of the petals unifying the flower and its roots, representing growth and transformation, as well as the
A yellow diamond-encrusted orb is
heart’s aspirations. Three elements of color,
contained within a crystal realm, out of
light, and shape add to the energetic
physical reach, yet appears as a bright
composition.
energy. To access the object of our curiosity, the viewer sees beyond the transparent boundary, similar to our unconsciousness
Music on My MindӕParure: Necklace, Earrings, Ring
merging with the universe.
Th e a e s t h e t i c s o f t h e j e w e l r y i s
The tsavorite garnets allude to neurons meeting to form synapses in our brains, connections interacting in a complementary way to create a complex network that forms
comparable to the visual poetry of musical notation, such as an ornamental documentation of an instrumental soloist’s freestyle melody.
the conscious mind. Our minds take
Lights, colors and shapes twist together
inspirations from our surroundings and live in
to resemble an exquisite dance to a
harmony with the interconnected universe.
magnificent tune. Rhythmic light and color
The overlapping connections are similar to
are reminiscent of orchestral musical
how tree roots intertwine and share common
notation. Together they compose a combined
nutrients from the soil. The green garnets are
act of glamour and classical elegance.
set through the creator’s choice of purple titanium, magnifying the intricate attention to detail as well as the vivid color of the gems.
The link between the gems also suggests a brain structure, with neurons communicating with one another. They are
A pink sapphire links the plant stem and
self-sufficient entities that closely interact and
roots to the flower head. The gem is set in an
form strong bonds between similar cells. The
unusual way through the creator’s meticulous
meandering titanium and stones turn the
craftsmanship. One pair of baguette-cut
invisible consciousness into a solid material
white diamonds are used as prongs to set the
arrangement of the brain processing a song.
pink sapphire through tension. Careful calculation is required to guarantee the gem
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Lapis lazuli and rare patterned opal are
m a g n i fic e n t , m o u n t a i n o u s l a n d s c a p e
set inside the crystals to generate diverse
contrasted by warm colors of vivid pink and
layers of sparking blues and greens that
reds that heat up the icy architecture. The
contrast the vibrant red rubies. The ruby
pink sapphires’ gentle color highlights the
becomes the protagonist in the performance
dramatic red of the ruby while the interaction
with the support of the opals; the finest
of light dancing through the stones enhances
materials are used to showcase the brilliance
the piece.
of the rubies.
The structural forms of the ring mimic
Ancient Chinese philosopher, Laozi, once
ruby’s interior crystal structures which can
proclaimed: “The Great Image is without
only be seen through a microscope. The
form.” The supreme beauty shall be abstract
creator reconstructed the inner world of the
and eternally changing; it will reject
gemstone and brought it to the exterior
restrictions and specificity, therefore
realm. The crystallized pointed contours
e n c o m p a s s i n g a l l . Th i s s t re s s e s t h e
convey an aura of mystery and grandeur,
importance of concept within creation and it
signifying the amalgamation of ideas and
merges the heavens, humanity and earth and
concepts into concrete creations. Detailed
becomes a construction embodying the spirit
layering of thin titanium creates a solid
of everything.
structure of bridging geometric shapes that constitute the ring band.
Ruby CastleӕRing Harmonious colors, geometric forms and light poetically merge together in the meticulously constructed Ruby Castle—a dream castle inspired by the mysterious, microscopic world of nature.
This design is a combination of memories connecting and transforming one another. This abstract Ruby Castle is a collective representation of the creator’s experiences of nature, culture and the microscopic world.
Rubies are an emblem of good fortune, courage and vitality. Associated with blood and the heart, the red stone is symbolic of love and is regarded as the queen of all gems. Ancient soldiers believed in the invincible power of ruby and had the jewel set in their skin and armor as a ritual of empowerment.
Wallace Chan | Harvard University talk Date: Tuesday October 24 Time: 7.30-9.30pm Venue:Geological Lecture Hall, 24 Oxford Street
The creator was attracted to the ruby’s marvelous form. By uniting imagination and observation, he was inspired to use pink
Harvard Museum of Natural History https://hmnh.harvard.edu/home
sapphires to compose a glacier-like palace. The structure transports the viewer to a
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Wonders of Life Earrings (detail) Diamond 2pcs 4.02ct and DIF Diamond 2 pcs 1.49ct, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Emerald, Crystal, Tsavorite Garnet and Titanium Page 215
Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Wonders of Life Earrings (detail) Diamond 2pcs 4.02ct and DIF Diamond 2 pcs 1.49ct, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Emerald, Crystal, Tsavorite Garnet and Titanium Page 217
Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Music on My Mind Parure: Necklace, Earrings, Ring Necklace: Oval-shaped Ruby 7pcs 56.234ct, Earrings: Oval-shaped Ruby 2pcs 13.114ct, Ring: Oval-shaped Ruby 1pc 8.19ct Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Crystal/Lapis Lazuli/Opal and Titanium Page 218
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Wallace Chan will exhibit at TEFAF New York in October with new creations The Waves - Transformable Brooch/Necklace/Bracelet This is a piece of multi-wear jewelry with breakthrough designs. With the possibility of being transformed into in 8 d i f f e re n t s t y l e s, f ro m a luxurious and dressy brooch and necklace to a simple and elegant bracelet, its versatility is a delightful surprise. The beautiful butterfly features hand-carved amethyst wings and a pear-shaped tsavorite garnet body. The wave-like scrolls on the wings’ edges are to show the imperceptible air and sound waves generated by the flapping of the butterfly’s wings.
S e a o f Joy Brooch/Sculpture This brooch composes the body of the fish with a piece of colorful opal. On top of the sparkling opal, translucent crystal is set and reflects the gemstone’s magical glow. This piece is full of stunning and elaborate details. The eyes of the fish alone contain layers of exquisitely carved crystal and gemstones. The fish is swimming contently as if it is living in eternal joy. The brooch, together with its base made of raw crystal and titanium, form one harmonious piece of visual artwork.
Ruby Castle - Ring Inspired by the mysterious m i c ro s c o p i c w o rl d o f nature found inside a gemstone, the creator engaged in castle-building on a mini scale to reveal the gem’s inner beauty with an unusual construction. In a coordinated red color scheme, pink sapphires are set in a geometric and rhythmic form to express meticulous layers an enigmatic dream castle comes alive.
Jewelry creator Wallace Chan is returning to the renowned TEFAF New York Fall to showcase his highly original and artistic jewelry and art creations. More than 20 pieces of jewelry and 1 titanium sculpture will be exhibited, most of which are on show for the first time in New York. With the fair taking place at the Park Avenue Armory between October 27 and November 1, its impressive offerings will draw in prestigious collectors, experts, curators, and art lovers from around the world. TEFAF is the world’s most prestigious art fair. It is the premier des tination for experts from the world’s best museums such as Musée du Louvre, Metropolitan Museum of Art and the British Museum when it comes to acquiring artworks. It is also a must-see event for the most elusive private collectors. In 2016, with years of successful experience at Maastricht, TEFAF launched its first American edition of the fair in New York to present artworks spanning over 7,000 of art history. The second edition of TEFAF New York Fall will run from October 27 to November 1 at the famous Park Avenue A r m o r y, w i t h t h e V I P Preview and Opening Night Reception taking place on the 27th. Page 221
Wonders of Life - Earrings The creator was inspired by the neurons joining, resulting in the brilliant floral structure symbolizing life and hope. A yellow diamond-encrusted orb is contained within a crystal realm to symbolize the seeds of life blossom into flowers. A heart-shaped pink sapphire is set at the base of the petals unifying the flower and its roots, representing growth and transformation, as well as the heart’s aspirations. Three elements of color, light, and shape add to the energetic composition.
Music on My Mind Parure: Necklace, Earrings & Ring The parure features a set of 10 extremely rare Burmese rubies totalling 77.538 carats. With diamonds, lapis lazuli, crystal, and opal set alongside the rubies, a symphonic movement involving light, colors, and shapes is composed. Lapis lazuli and opal slices are set inside the crystals to generate diverse layers of elusive blue, contrasting the rich red color of rubies. Light and colors interact and dance like musical notes to make up a piece of unique and poetically written ornamental passage.
Exhibition Details VIP Preview: October 27 (14:00-21:00) Public Days: October 28, 30 & 31 (12:00 – 20:00) October 29 & November 1(12:00 – 18:00) Venue: Park Avenue Armory, 643 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10065 Wallace Chan Stand: 36 https://www.tefaf.com/fairs/tefaf-new-york-fall www.armoryonpark.org
All photos courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN
Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | AVANT-PREMIÈRE
Ruby Castle Ring Hexagonal-shaped Ruby 17.58ct, Pink Sapphire, Titanium Page 222
Photo courtesy of SOTHEBY’S © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Vivien
The Collection of Vivien Leigh Page 223
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
THE VIVIEN LEIGH COLLECTION AT SOTHEBY’S Hollywood icon and incandescent star of
Harry Dalmeny, Sotheby’s UK Chairman,
one of the most beloved films of all time,
commented: “This is our chance to discover
Vivien Leigh (1913-1967) captured hearts and
the real, and unexpected, Vivien Leigh. We’re
minds with her fiery, luminous performance as
all guilty of confusing our favourite actresses
Scarlett O’Hara in Gone with the Wind in 1939.
with the heroines they portray, of blurring
Her legendary status in the pantheon of
Vivien’s identity with that of Scarlett O’Hara or
all-time greats was assured when she secured
Blanche DuBois. But, behind the guise of the
what perhaps remains to this day the most
most glamorous and talked-about woman of
coveted role in cinema history. Our perception
her age we find a fine art collector, patron,
of such legends is often imperceptibly
even a book worm, who was the intellectual
entwined with the myths they come to
equal of the literati, artists and aesthetes she
embody. This September, a spotlight will
counted among her coterie. Her private
reveal the inner person few people really
collection does not disappoint. Vivien
knew, in effect Vivien’s private life, when
approached the decoration of her homes as if
Sotheby’s London brings to auction The Vivien
she were designing a set, incorporating
Leigh Collection.
influences and inspiration from a life spent on
Passed down through Vivien’s family, the collection comprises paintings, jewellery, couture, books, furniture, porcelain, objets d’art and further items celebrating all aspects of her life, from the pre-war years in London, to Hollywood and beyond, up to her death in 1967. Myriad pieces drawn from the city and country homes Vivien shared with her
screen and on stage. These houses were an extension of the theatrical space, with medieval Notley Abbey looking positively Shakespearean. Fifty years on from her death, this sale opens the door into Vivien’s private world, allowing us a privileged and fascinating glimpse into a world that otherwise only her closest friends could ever have known.”
husband Laurence Olivier will give a new
In total, approximately 250 lots will be
perspective on Vivien, from her appreciation
offered for sale at Sotheby’s in London on 26
of art and patronage of Modern British artists,
September 2017, with estimates ranging from
to her passion for books and fondness for
£100 to £100,000.
entertaining and interior design.
Among the items on sale are Vivien
Vivien Leigh’s family commented: “We
Leigh’s personal copy of Gone with the Wind
hope people take as much pleasure from this
given to her by the author Margaret Mitchell
collection as our grandparents, parents and
(estimate £5,000–7,000). The quest to find an
families have done.”
actress to play Scarlett O’Hara is one of the
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
most enduring stories enshrined in the annals
with securing Vivien with the role of Scarlett
of Hollywood. Margaret Mitchell’s novel,
O’Hara (est. £400–600) is also on sale.
winner of the 1937 Pulitzer Prize, was a best-seller in every sense, not only selling in staggering numbers, but striking a chord with female readers who fancied themselves as Scarlett. Among these fans was Vivien, one of the book’s earliest readers: “From the moment I read [it], I was fascinated by the lovely wayward, tempestuous Scarlett. I felt that I loved and understood her, almost as though I had known her in the flesh. When I heard that the book was to filmed in Hollywood early in 1939, I longed to play the part.”
After a lengthy nationwide search for Scarlett, costing over $50,000, speculation about who would play the novel’s heroine reached fever pitch. Producer David Selznick finally settled on Vivien, a relatively unknown actress at the time. He had initially had“no enthusiasm for Vivien Leigh... She was very beautiful, but she seemed to be a little static, not quite sufficiently temperamental for such a fiery role”, but this silver cigarette box is a momento of the moment he changed his mind, and when the projection of Vivien’s career changed forever.
A dedicated reader of the book, Vivien kept a copy close at hand during filming and deeply resented any divergence from Margaret Mitchell’s text. On the final day of shooting, Olivia de Havilland (‘Melanie Hamilton’) walked past Vivien, failing to recognise her. “She looked so diminished by over work... Her whole atmosphere had changed. She gave something to that film that I don’t think she ever got back.” Vivien went on to win her first Oscar for her performance in 1939. She was just 26 years old at the time.
The silver box was gifted to the couple by Myron Selznick, the man who was instrumental in securing Vivien with the coveted role. Olivier’s agent in Hollywood and David Selznick’s brother, Myron engineered the dramatic meeting between David and Vivien on the set of Gone with the Wind during the dramatic burning of Atlanta scenes, filmed before Scarlet had even been cast. The impression Vivien made – with the flames lighting up her face – was quite devastating; he recalled, “I’ll never recover from that first look”.
Her copy of Gone with the Wind is inscribed by Margaret Mitchell with a hand-written poem: “Life’s pattern pricked with a scarlet thread / where once we were with a gray / To remind us all how we played our parts / In the shock of an epic day”.
A gold ring, inscribed ‘Laurence Olivier Vivien Eternally’ (est. £400–600) “Apart from her looks, which were magical, she possessed beautiful poise... She also had something else: an attraction of the most perturbing nature I had ever encountered”- Laurence
A silver cigarette box, engraved with
Olivier recalling Vivien Leigh in 1982.
‘Vivien and Larry Love Myron [Myron Selznick]’. A present from the man credited
Married for 20 years, from 1940-1960, Vivien and Olivier were one of the most
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 282, ASPREY, LONDON, The Streetcar Named Desire Jewel Case, stamped Asprey, London crocodile skin, gold-velvet, brass and canvas the lid gilt-tooled ‘V. L. O. / 12th October 1949’ Estimate £800-1,200
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 289 THE CHRYSOBERYL DEMIPARURE 18th century brooch with Portuguese assay mark, chrysoberyl comprising: a devant-de-corsage designed as a bow suspending a detachable pendant, set throughout with foil-backed circular-cut, cushion and pear-shaped chrysoberyls; and a pair of earrings of similar design Estimate £4,000-6,000
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 300 PAIR OF PENDENT EARRINGS, jadeite each with a surmount formed as a round cartouche containing the Chinese character fú, meaning ‘good fortune’, suspending jadeite drops carved with a fruit design. Estimate £100-150
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 26, GONE WITH THE WIND. NEW YORK THE MACMILLAN COMPANY, 1939 Margaret Mitchell Vivien Leigh’s personal copy of Gone with the Wind, given to her by the author Margaret Mitchell Estimate £5,000-7,000
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 245, STUDY OF ROSES Sir Winston Churchill, K.G., O.M., C.H., Hon. R.A. signed with initials, oil on canvasboard 51 by 36cm.; 20 by 14¼in. Executed in the 1930s. Estimate £70,000-100,000 Page 230
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 27, CIGARETTE BOX FROM MYRON SELZNICK A. Taylor, New Jersey A silver cigarette box, engraved with ‘Vivien and Larry Love Myron [Myron Selznick]’ A present from the man credited with securing Vivien with the role of Scarlett O’Hara Estimate £400-600
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 121, STUDY FOR PORTRAIT OF VIVIEN LEIGH Augustus John ,1942 Red chalk on paper 153⁄4in by 11in Estimate £5,000-7,000
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glamorous couples in the world. Further to
the art historian who during his time as
watching Olivier numerous times on stage in
director of the National Gallery would
1934, Vivien became determined to meet
regularly drop by Vivien’s dressing room at
him, confiding to a friend ‘That’s the man I’m
Haymarket Theatre around the corner on
going to marry’ before they had even spoken.
matinée days. He recalled, “I used to make for
Her obsession was fuelled by dreams of
her rather better tea than her dresser would
theatrical glory and the idea that one day
have done. At first I went because I enjoyed
they might emulate Alfred Lunt and Lynn
looking at her... But very soon I went because
Fontanne, the legendary husband-and-wife
I enjoyed her company and was fascinated by
acting team, and become a celebrated stage
her character.”
couple. Towards the end of 1935 Vivien was at last introduced to her idol at the Savoy Grill. Married to other people at the time, they embarked on an affair the following year, and formally led separate lives until they were able to marry in 1940.
The Oliviers’ commission of a painting of their home Notley Abbey from John Piper shows the influence of Clark’s friendship. Championed by Clark, Piper was one of the key artists he chose to record Britain during the Second World War through the War
A portrait of Vivien by Augustus John,
Artists Advisory Committee. As Surveyor of
1942 (est. £5,000–7,000) will also be available
the King’s Pictures, Clark had also helped to
on the sale. This portrait shines a light on the
secure Their Majestys’ commission for Piper
untold story of Vivien’s deep engagement
to paint a series of atmospheric watercolours
with art which she collected throughout her
of Windsor Castle in the early 1940s. The
life. As she travelled the world for months at a
painting of Notley Abbey was executed in the
time, she would not only buy new art from the
1940s and similarly captures the house in all
countries she visited, but would also take
its dramatic glory, akin to a stage set.
select paintings with her to decorate her hotel and dressing rooms across the globe. Around 45 artworks are included in the sale.
Sotheby’s has been uniting collectors with world-class works of art since 1744. Sotheby’s became the first international
Unsurprisingly, Vivien herself could not
auction house when it expanded from
escape the attention of the artists in her
London to New York (1955), the first to
circle. This beautiful drawing of Vivien in red
conduct sales in Hong Kong (1973), India
chalk by Augustus John is a study for a
(1992) and France (2001), and the first
painting commissioned by Laurence Olivier
international fine art auction house in China
in 1942. The painting was never finished,
(2012). Today, Sotheby’s presents auctions in
allegedly because Olivier thought that the
10 different salesrooms, including New York,
artist had become too infatuated with his
London, Hong Kong and Paris.
subject.
For further information visit
Vivien’s love of art was likely nurtured
www.sothebys.com
through her friendship with Sir Kenneth Clark,
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 307 THE DIAMOND BOW BROOCH mid 19th century diamonds, silver, gold designed as a bow suspending an articulated tassel, set with circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds. Estimate £25,000-35,000
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Lot 30 A collection of awards and certificates including Vivien’s certification of nomination for ‘Best Actress’ as Blanche DuBois in A Streetcar Named Desire, from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences Estimate £1,500-2,000
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Lot 30 GONE WITH THE WIND FILM SCRIPT Sidney Howard Gone with the Wind, film script, presented to Vivien Leigh by members of the cast, with photographs, circa 1939 Estimate £10,000 — 15,000
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 315 VIVIEN’S CHARM BRACELET 1940s and later, chalcedony, jadeite the double curb link bracelet set with a six charms including: an oval locket inscribed Lady Hamilton with the initials VL, containing a photograph of Vivien Leigh as Lady Hamilton and a portrait by George Romney; a book inscribed Gone with the Wind, the pages inscribed Vivien Leigh and Scarlett O’Hara, with an engraved image of the character; a round charm with a design of a boatagainst a sunset, the sky of blue chalcedony; a jadeite pendant carved with a design of a bat; and two chalcedony drops. Estimate £1,000-1,500
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 321 THE ‘ETERNALLY’ RING 1940s the exterior engraved with floral decoration, and inscribed to the interior Laurence Olivier Vivien Eternally. Estimate £400-600
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 311 SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING WEST & SON late 19th/early 20th century, signed West & Son sapphire, diamonds, claw-set with a circular-cut sapphire between circular-cut diamond shoulders. Estimate £800-1,200
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 319 PENDANT suspending two pendants modelled as theatrical masks representing comedy and tragedy, from curb link chains and linked by a jump ring. Estimate £100-150
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 316 THE XMAS 1940 WRISTWATCH watch dated 1940, later bracelet with British hallmarks for, London, 1959 rubies, diamonds, manual winding movement, the circular dial applied with Arabic numeral indicators, to shoulders set with calibre-cut rubies and single-cut diamonds, the reverse engraved Vivien Larry Only!! Darling Xmas 1940, to a later link bracelet. Estimate £800-1,200
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | THE VIVIAN LEIGH COLLECTION
Lot 306 ETRUSCAN REVIVAL STYLE BANGLE 19th century seed pearl, of hinged design, the front decorated with bead and rope twist details and set with a line of seed pearls. Estimate £100-150
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE
Ulysse Nardin
Executive Moonstruck Worldtimer Page 243
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE
EXECUTIVE MOONSTRUCK WORLDTIMER Simplicity through watchmaking
turn around this fixed map of the world. The
eloquence: this new model remains the only
outermost circle features a symbol
watch to depict the movements of the moon
representing the sun. This solar disc, which
and sun in relation to the Earth, as well as a
completes one revolution in 24 hours, also
map of the tides.
sweeps over a display of 24 time zones and is
Our solar system is composed of a star, eight planets, 175 satellites, and billions of particles of interplanetary dust. And yet, human beings spend their whole lives alongside just two celestial bodies: the sun
equipped with a day/night indicator. These markings control the Worldtimer function, allowing the wearer to simultaneously display the time in the 24 cities inscribed on the internal flange.
and the moon. Since the beginning of time,
As for the moon, this appears on a lower
they have featured in all faiths, embodied in
orbit. Two discs work together here: on top,
every symbol, and fascinated every civi-
the first functions as a circu- lar window
lization. Their path through the sky, so familiar,
showing the position of the Earth’s satellite;
and their power over the tides, are the basis of
below, the second disc, in gold, shows the
the new Moon- struck Worldtimer.
changing phases of the moon. By separating
Leonardo da Vinci once said that simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Ulysse Nardin has made this saying the cornerstone of its philosophy. In its purest definition, the Moonstruck Worldtimer recreates the moon’s
this unique display into two rotating parts, Ulysse Nardin has accomplished such a high level of precision that the time lag for each lunar month is just 5.7 seconds per day, or one day in 40 years.
orbit and the apparent movement of the sun
Eight years after the first Moonstruck
around the globe. Its celestial ballet, just as it
made its mark, the Moonstruck Worldtimer
is seen from the Earth, is unlike anything an
remains the only astronomical wristwatch with
astronomical watch has previously offered.
the bright part of the moon always facing the
This intuitive display hides a sophisticated
sun, as happens in real life. The dial also
mechanism that provides an unusually
displays a particularly easy-to-read map of the
accurate indication of the phases of the moon.
tides, which is the result of the gravitational
In the center of the dial, the Northern Hemisphere is depicted as seen from above the North Pole. Six o’clock in London represents the Greenwich meridian, marking Greenwich Mean Time. Three concentric discs
forces of these two celestial bod- ies, as well as of the centrifugal force exerted by the rotation of the Earth. This sometimes exaggerates or cancels out the influence of the oceans.
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE
Equipped with silicium technology, and entirely designed and produced in-house, the self-winding calibre UN-106 housed in the Moonstruck Worldtimer once again offers a date function, on a track encircling the world map. Push buttons at 8 and 10 o’clock enable the wearer to quickly move the time forward or backward by one hour – a very handy feature while travelling or when switching to summer time.
Crown: screw down security crown. Diameter: 46 Water-resistance: 100 m Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire crystal Case-back: sapphire crystal Strap: leather strap with folding clasp Price:
A sign of its ever-independent spirit, Ulysse Nardin is one of the only comprehensive manufacturers in Switzerland to master both innovation and watchmaking tradition. The owner of various
Ref. 1069-113/01 : € 95‘000.-, CHF 95'000.(platinum model) Ref. 1062-113/01 : € 75’000.-, CHF 75’000.(rose gold model)
patents, working right at the cut- ting-edge of technology, it also focuses on sharing ancestral knowledge through its artwork. TECHNICAL DATA References:1069-113/01 & 1062-113/01 Limited Edition to 100 pieces Movement: Caliber UN-106, In-house designed movement, Silicium escapement and spring, 28’800 v/h. Power reserve: approximately 50 h Winding: self-winding Functions: Astronomical timepiece, Indication of position of Sun and Moon in relation toEarth, Indication of Moon phases, Indication of tides, Worldtimer function for 24 cities, Hours, minutes, date, Instant time zone adjuster with patented quick setting device. Case: platinum or rosegold 18 kt. Dial: blue, motif: Earth, concentric discs
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | HORLOGERIE
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Photo courtesy of Lin Mei | Unsplash
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN | SHOWCASE
SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN
SHOWCASE A SELECTION FROM OUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT
ANNA HU
FAIDEE
BHAGAT
LIN SHIAO TUNG
BUSSATI
PALMIERO
ANABELA CHAN
NIKOS KOULIS
JACK VARTANIAN
BOUCHERON M. THOUVENOT
To see more of our favorite jewellery, follow us on www.instagram.com/jewellery_historian Page 250
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN
ADRESS BOOK BRANDS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE
ANABELA CHAN
LIN SHIAO TUNG
www.anabelachan.com
www.lin-shiao-tung.com.tw
ANNA HU
M.THOUVENOT
www.anna-hu.com
www.mthouvenot.com
ARTISTAR JEWELLERY 2018
NIKOS KOULIS
www.artistarjewels.com
www.nikoskoulis.gr
BHAGAT
PALMIERO
www.bhagatjewellers.com
www.palmierogioielli.com
BOUCHERON
SACET
www.boucheron.com
www.sacet.com
BUSSATI
SOTHEBY’S
www.bussatimilano.com
www.sothebys.com
FABERGÉ
ULYSSE NARDIN
www.faberge.com
www.ulysse-nardin.com
FAIDEE
WALLACE CHAN
www.faidee.com
www.wallace-chan.com
JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com
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