Jewellery Historian, Issue #14

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SERG ZASTAVKIN / SHUTTERSTOCK. COM

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE

OCTOBER 2015 INTRODUCING ZAFFIRO High-end jewelry inspired by the Mediterranean culture

COVER STORY FARAH KHAN An enticing journey of mystic mélanges to Imperial embraces

INTERVIEW WALLACE CHAN Meeting the legendary jewelry creator, artist and philosopher

A NEW MUST CASPITA An exclamation of a thousand colours

SPOTLIGHT GORALSKA From the depths of the earth to feminine and urban high-end jewelry

TIMEPIECES TIFFANY CT60 Timepieces infused with the energy and ambition : 60 seconds of pure possibility.

21 39 59 85 143 161

REGULARS EDITOR’S LETTER Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue

ISSUE GLOBE All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance

NEWS News from around the world

ESTHÈTE The editor’s jewellery choice of the month

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS AQUAMARINE Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue

OUR FAVES ANIMALIER JEWELLERY Jewellery for an important moment of life

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EDITOR’S LETTER I know that my public confession may come as a surprise to some people, especially since I never talk or write about myself, but I am what some would call a “hopeless romantic.” I’m in love with love.

But, I do not believe in the fairytale version of love. I have to distinguish delusions of “grandeur” and what it means to understand that love is about creating. Hopeless romantics are idealists, the imaginative and sentimental dreamers, not the creepy stalkers. I understand that love can be as ugly as it is beautiful. Love makes people say and do things that shouldn’t be said or done and sometimes turns people into horrible ones. So I would call myself “realistic hopeless romantic”, since I totally understand that love can become ugly, and I know what it takes to keep it beautiful and alive. I know that love is whatever we make of it.

Some people blame love for their bad behavior, but I would answer to them that people are flawed, not love ! Love is a living, breathing thing. It requires attention and maintenance.

Love depends almost entirely on how we perceive it but also from our own actions. The way we perceive reality is definitely influenced by our environment and our immediate surroundings. We are influenced by thousands of tiny variables — so much so that we don’t even see them as influences.

I am “a hopeless romantic” who has suffered betrayal and heartbreak, who has once hated love, but managed to love it again, despite all its flaws and this made me incredibly strong.

I know what I want and this magazine is one of the things I love to do. Every issue is full of my love and of the love of my amazing team. As a “hopeless romantic”, love gives me energy to dream, to create, to follow my dreams, to be a better person and to do everything I do in my life.

When you love somebody or something you always find the time needed. If you don’t give a part of yourself, or of your time then you should by brutally honest to yourself and wonder if you really know what love is. Many people don’t, but I believe that I do.

Love, time and creativity are intimately connected. Love is a creative force that requests time. It doesn’t have to be the focus of a creative work for it to inspire. It just has to exist.

Love, in other words, is dreamy, and dreams are linked to creativity. Most artists and designers I have met the last twenty years have this point in common, they are almost all “hopeless romantics”. After all, if they weren’t they would not be the amazing artists they are today. Artists who are in love – or in love with the idea of love – tend to broaden their perspectives and look to the future.

This October issue, is dedicated to the love all artists have in their creative souls, to all the love they give to us all with their exquisite creations. It is dedicated to all the love we have in our soul, even if some people choose to hide it. It is dedicated to love...past, present and future.

Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief

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ISSUE GLOBE

In every issue, we introduce you to the most talented jewellery designers and people.

At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others.

Discover the designers, brands & people that we are honored to showcase in this issue.

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ISSUE GLOBE

WALLACE CHAN Wallace Chan was brought up at the confluence of Western and Asian cultures in Hong Kong.

He started as a gemstones carving apprentice, and set up his own workshop at age seventeen. Chan has explored and experimented with the properties of gemstones, inventing the “Wallace Cut” carving technique.

Wallace Chan is a legend, because Wallace Chan's unique and innovative talents combined to his limitless creativity combined to innovative design and revolutionary technique make him "A Modern Renaissance Man".

He became the first Asian artist to be invited to exhibit at the Biennale des Antiquaires, Paris, in 2012, returning in 2014.

In this issue, we meet him for an exclusive interview.

ZAFFIRO In the Zaffiro jewelry design studio— located a short stroll from their 1913 Craftsman home in the Hawthorne neighborhood of Portland, OR— Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri carry forward the artistic legacy of ancient Etruscans. In their workshop beyond the lush garden full of hot peppers, neatly riotous rows of tomatoes, and other gorgeously arranged fertility, the awardwinning jewelers practice an art form that first appeared 4000 years ago in and around Italy and Greece.

Since establishing their own studio in Portland in 1996 they’ve experimented with nontraditional color combinations for granulated jewelry and developed alloys and techniques for granulating in 22 karat rose and white gold, as well as platinum. They work almost exclusively with recycled gold. Jack’s ultimate goal is to create a piece that combines all the color combinations.

FARAH KHAN Farah Khan is a renowned Jewellery designer and gemologist who's foray into the jewellery line was purely by chance when she decided to do a course in gemology and jewellery design at the renowned Gemological Institute of America.

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but also an artist of masterpieces and an orator of stories. She can be called a jewel alchemist who triumphantly moulds her thoughts into mastery and exquisite gems into jewellery. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible. Her tales of thought, imagination, inspiration and craftsmanship is narrated in her jewelled theatre, Farah Khan fine jewellery.

In this issue, we discover her “Jardin Exotique”,which is our “cover story” since her creations inspired us to include our “animalier” faves and our cover.

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ISSUE GLOBE

CASPITA Caspita is an exclamation of a thousand colours, a name chosen by Arlène Bonnant to launch her new line of fine jewellery. Caspita, in Italian, expresses admiration, joy, surprise literally "my goodness". This mysterious and colourful word came to the designer while reminiscing about her grandfather, who often used this expression of surprise in her presence.

This spirited word helped to create a bond between them, in much the same way as a jewel can unite two people.

From the magical sound of the word's three syllables a line of fine jewellery was born, a line, which without doubt, resembles its creator. Passionate about contemporary art, Arlène Bonnant is a recognized expert of 20th and 21st century Art. Arlène's profound involvement with works of art and her close relationship with them drove her to explore her inner world and subsequently led her to the creation of jewellery. The transition from one to the other came very naturally to Arlène who sees a jewel as a work of art in itself.

GORALSKA Born in a family of diamond dealers for three generations, Corinne Evens grew up surrounded by rough gemstones with an aura of mystery.

GORALSKA is the combination of three concepts: creativity, femininity, and audacity. In Semitic languages, the word « goral » means destiny; and the suffi x « ska » identifies femininity in Slavic languages.

To wear a GORALSKA piece is to adhere to a story, a life philosophy. The GORALSKA woman shares with others her experiences and her values. She draws from her roots the faith and the strength to accomplish her projects for others, with others. The GORALSKA jewel is a bond between a woman’s past and future.

EVA KOUNTOURAKI Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers.

From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field.

With a career as a gemology instructor but also a jewelry and gemstones buyer Eva is the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones.

At the Jewellery Historian, you can read her exclusive column “The breathtaking beauty of gemstones” in every single issue and we are proud for this. This month, Eva invites us to discover aquamarine.

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NEWS

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D RE A M LI G H T W A T ER Written by Juliet de la Rochefoucauld and Wallace Chan

The first illustrated monograph on a jewelry creator who has realized an imaginative world inspired by butterflies, insects, fish and mythological creatures.

This remarkable limited edition book showcases eighty-six pieces of jewelry, unique works of art that were conceived and realized by Wallace Chan, through close-up photography that emphasizes details, materials, technical innovation, and the visionary talent of the artist.

Chan sculpts with a lightness of touch that defies the abilities of most artists and uses light as the leitmotif of his colorful and sensual jewels. His pieces reflect his Zen philosophy, adopting realism as a medium to express abstraction, and reveal a unique craftsman- ship in developing new techniques for carving precious stones and manipulating titanium and jade, using tools he has made. The collection features some of Chan’s most intricate and technically challenging pieces that have led

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him to enter the ranks of the top jewelry artists in the world.

Wallace Chan was brought up at the confluence of Western and Asian cultures in Hong Kong. He started as a gemstones carving apprentice, and set up his own workshop at age seventeen. Chan has explored and experimented with the properties of gemstones, inventing the “Wallace Cut” carving technique. He became the first Asian artist to be invited to exhibit at the Biennale des Antiquaires, Paris, in 2012, returning in 2014.

Juliette de la Rochefoucauld is a gemologist and jewelery historian who has written a number of books on jewelry designers past and present. She lectures worldwide on jewelry design.

380 pages, 11 x 15” 260 color photographs and illustrations RIZZOLI Release date : January 26, 2016

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Photo courtesy of TIFFANY & CO. © TIFFANY & CO.

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

OUR NEWS

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G UC C I The Diamantissima collection

Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry introduced us at BASELWORLD 2015 a prestigious new ensemble of timepieces for women, the Diamantissima collection.

With its understated Gucci allure, the Diamantissima watch collection represents a new, refined timepiece for the modern woman.

About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry

Five models in a range of sizes display a feminine look and feel with elegantly understated detailing. Each watch showcases the iconic diamante pattern that has inspired this line. This brand-new launch complements the Diamantissima Jewelry collection and offers to the modern woman a fresh new style.

The diamante pattern is inspired by Gucci’s famous canvas fabric print featuring a distinctive crisscross motif.

These timepieces, with their refined case and minimalist dial, show off this design to its fullest expression: the cases are etched with the diamante pattern, and dials feature the motif all over conveying a fabric print effect.

Rendered in colorways of stainless steel and white (32mm, 27mm and 22mm) or pink gold PVD with black and matching black calf leather strap (32mm and 27mm), the diamante pattern stands out on the cases, which are rendered in tone-on-tone stainless steel or contrasting colours of black and pink gold PVD. Four models come with minimalist dials without numerals, whilst a smaller, precious variant (22mm) is worked with a mother of pearl dial accented with four diamonds at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The Gucci logo and ‘Swiss Made’ quality stamp are etched under the sapphire glass at 12 and 6 o’clock.

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Gucci Timepieces has been designing, developing and manufacturing iconic Gucci watches since the early 1970s. Taking advantage of the worldwide recognition of the Florentine house – and its unique duality in brand positioning, pairing modernity and heritage, innovation and craftsmanship, trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci Timepieces is one of the most reliable and consistent fashion watch brands, with a clear design approach and positioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci watches are recognized for their design, quality and craftsmanship and are distributed worldwide through the exclusive network of directly operated Gucci boutiques and selected watch distributors. Since January 2010, Gucci Timepieces has also been distributing the Gucci Jewelry collections, capitalizing on the expertise gained in the watch sector and leveraging the synergies between the watch and jewelry industries. For more information about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, please visit www.gucciwatches.com.

Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a world leader in apparel and accessories which develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands.

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Photo courtesy of GUCCI © GUCCI

OUR NEWS

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A VA K I AN Newly renovated Geneva boutique & New Moscow boutique

In their unwavering pursuit of excellence, AVAKIAN the trusted jeweler to some of the world's leading dignitaries, Royal Families and celebrities, relocates its boutique to the opluent Ritz Carlton Hotel in Moscow.

Located in the heart of Moscow’s luxurious Ritz Carlton, Avakian’s newest boutique exudes the sophisticated elegance that clients have come to associate with the Avakian brand. Decorated in chocolate brown, beige and gold, the boutique is a welcoming space where clients can view the jewellery collections and one-of-a-kind designs in an intimate environment. Avakian’s signature quilt pattern, inspired by the Tzarina collection, adorns the gently revolving showcases. Cutting edge lighting and technology help to display the latest collections and footage of Avakian events and designs worn by celebrities at the Cannes Film Festival.

Avakian relaunches its boutique on the famed Rue du Rhone in Geneva with the brand's sleek store concept.

Before stepping into Avakian’s newly renovated Geneva boutique, guests are welcomed by two illuminated onyx columns. Inside, Italian marble and wood line the walls, creating an elegant yet modern setting. Clients can sip champagne and relax on chaises longues as they experience Avakian’s latest designs in person or on iPads.

For those who would like a more intimate environment, there is a private corner to view select pieces. Day-to-day jewellery is on show in Avakian’s first counter display, while heritage pieces feature in showcases trimmed in the brand’s signature Tzarina pattern. Four screens in the boutique show the latest collec-

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tions and footage of Avakian events and designs worn by celebrities at the Cannes Film Festival.

“Our new boutique in Moscow and the newly renovated flagship store in Geneva give us the opportunity to showcase our world-class designs in modern, sophisticated luxury.

Each and every detail in these boutiques was thought through to provide our clients with the intimate and personalised experience they expect to receive at Avakian – from the design of the boutique facades to the light that shines on each jewel. We have had a wonderful response from our loyal clients, telling us that they feel welcomed and relaxed as they peruse our collections.” says Edmond Avakian Edmond Avakian brings more than three decades of experience to his role as the founder of Avakian, where he oversees the company’s creative and strategic direction. Possessing a deep commitment to quality and aesthetics, Edmond strives for perfection in every aspect of his work. His artistry is reflected in both the finely crafted pieces he creates, as well as the ambiance of his boutiques. Having completed his education at the University of California at Berkeley, he joined the family jewelry business in 1976, with a plan to turn the family work shop into an International Household name. In 1984, the company was relocated to Geneva, Switzerland, the hub for luxury jewelry and watches.

Dedicated to maintaining a memorable brand, Edmond has developed a line of elegant jewelry and unique masterpieces, some of which are inspired by his engineering background. Each collection comes in a unique combination of colors, congruent with Avakian's daring style.

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Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

Photo courtesy of AVAKIAN © AVAKIAN

OUR NEWS

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U LY S SE N A RDI N Ulysse Nardin Reveals Its Sensual Side with Hourstriker Erotica Jarretière.

Ulysse Nardin is known for its daring watchmaking ingenuity. With the new Hourstriker Erotica Jarretière, the manufacture pushes the boundaries, once again, revealing a side never seen before – sensuality. Adding a little risqué to its repertoire of wristwatches is the new Hourstriker Erotica Jarretière.

Erotic scenes are a long-standing tradition in the watch industry. Ulysse Nardin takes the subject matter to new heights through its implementation of the Hourstriker movement and Jaquemarts. A limited edition of 28 pieces each in rose gold and platinum, the timepiece’s tale is evident on its dial. A delicate, handcrafted miniature brings the romance of Venice to life.

The scene exposes lovers, viewable from the interior balcony, enjoying each other.

Set admist traditional Venetian décor, the nude man and woman make love on a chaise; these figures are handmade gold Jaquemarts that move in rhythm with the Hourstriker. Behind the chaise is an exterior view of the iconic Rialto Bridge arching majestically over Venice’s Grand Canal, enhancing the amorous scene.

Strewn on the carpet in front of the chaise is a pair of high heels and the tiniest, but most provocative, arousal – the garter, or Jarretière. A little seductress, the garter has the ability to overpower the most controlled men.

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Run by the complex Hourstriker mechanism, the watch gongs on the hour and on request as the couple moves, in the heat of passion, up and down with the sound. Simple for the timekeeper’s owner to operate, the striking mechanism can be activated or deactivated by simply pressing pusher one. One of the earliest manufacturers to lead the rebirth of the striking mechanism, Ulysse Nardin also remains among the rare watchmakers to use Jaquemarts.

An exclusive timepiece, revealing a soft, sensual side, whether a gift for a lover or a personal selection by a romantic, it renders a want that we all crave: to have love and desire as constants in our lives.

For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the horizon. Forever inventive, the manufacturer remains steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold innovation with undeniable style. November 2014 heralds a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Luxury – Watches and Jewellery “ division. Through this acquisition, Kering will support the continuation of Ulysse Nardin’s path of innovation and ensure the future growth of independence in the manufacture of in-house movements.

For more information, please visit www.ulysse-nardin.com

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Photo courtesy of ULYSSE NARDIN © ULYSSE NARDIN

OUR NEWS

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E NTI C E Enchanting Wedding Orchid 2015 Collection

Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the renowned KGK group shares an exclusive glimpse of its muchacclaimed Wedding Orchid collection. Entice will unveil the entire range of Wedding Orchid 2015 collection in the month of October. Admired most by the brand patrons, the range has been specially curated to bring more grandeur to your Wedding Gala. Weddings are considered special in our homeland and are celebrated with full pageantry, keeping this in mind; Entice has added some more dazzling baubles to their treasury with this mesmerizing collection. The bejeweled collection is finely fabricated keeping in mind the pink theme, which looks best when fused with white gold. Hints of rose gold add a feminine touch to the whole look. This pleasing amalgamation will certainly make the whole affair more charming for the new bride when she teams up a pink outfit with these spectacular jewels.

The collection this time is outlined in tune with various wedding related elements like flowers, delicate glass bangles, ribbons etc. to add that beautiful blush to the ceremony. The beautiful diamond collection comprises of impeccable jewellery with varied shapes of diamonds set in White & Rose gold. The wide range entails something or the other for various occasions related to the D-Day, be it a cocktail party, mehndi, sangeet etc. You have options to choose from exquisite chokers, striking single line to multi line necklaces, classic bangles to bracelet, chandelier to hoops, studs etc. Each piece of the collection reflects perfect cuts and exclusive designs to add that special magical touch to the devout ceremony of marriage.

Marriage is the time that is indeed cherished the whole life by the couple, adding these alluring adornments from Entice will definitely add more charm to the auspicious affair and will make it a remarkable event in your life.

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Photo courtesy of ENTICE © ENTICE

OUR NEWS

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INTRODUCING

Z AFFIRO

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INTRODUCING

Photo courtesy of ZAFFIRO © ZAFFIRO

Z A F F IR O In the Zaffiro jewelry design studio— located a short stroll from their 1913 Craftsman home in the Hawthorne neighborhood of Portland, OR— Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri carry forward the artistic legacy of ancient Etruscans. In their workshop beyond the lush garden full of hot peppers, neatly riotous rows of tomatoes, and other gorgeously arranged fertility, the award-winning jewelers practice an art form that first appeared 4000 years ago in and around Italy and Greece.

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INTRODUCING

The technique, called granulation, is a decorative process that consists of applying miniature spheres of gold (or, in its modern adaptation, platinum) to a similar surface and then heating the entire piece to a temperature high enough to form a permanent bond between the surface and the spheres.

In the Zaffiro jewelry design studio— located a short stroll from their 1913 Craftsman home in the Hawthorne neighborhood of Portland, OR— Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri carry forward the artistic legacy of ancient Etruscans. In their workshop beyond the lush garden full of hot peppers, neatly riotous rows of tomatoes, and other gorgeously arranged fertility, the award-winning jewelers practice an art form that first appeared 4000 years ago in and around Italy and Greece.

The technique, called granulation, is a decorative process that consists of applying miniature spheres of gold (or, in its modern adaptation, platinum) to a similar surface and then heating the entire piece to a temperature high enough to form a permanent bond between the surface and the spheres. If the spheres are over-fired they’ll melt onto the surface; if under-fired, they won't adhere properly.

Granulation requires the same kind of creative vision and steady artistic temperament that helped turned the Gualtieris' urban yard into a mini Eden—and eventually results in baskets full of ripe produce. They’ll use the peppers, in particular, to entertain friends at their annual “Green Chile Party,” which has been known to feature a local opera singer belting arias into the crisp autumn night from the Gualtieris' covered porch. Guests circulate throughout the beautifully renovated house drinking local craft beers, surrounded by a great variety of art objects and collections— such as Jack’s chrome flasks, toasters, coffee and martini shakers, and lamps, or Elizabeth’s gathering of vintage cameras, ranging from an East German Minox spy camera to an early large-format bellows-style Kodak.

From the highly polished and beloved espresso machine in the busy kitchen to the handcrafted racks in the wine cellar, to the eclectic original artwork they’ve acquired throughout their travels, everything in the Gualtieris' house is about creative expression, about inspiring a mood or evoking an emotion. As artists, the couple have surrounded themselves with beauty, from the elegant old-growth forest growing on a volcano in the park four blocks away, to the colorful wisteria blossoms hanging from a hand-forged copper trellis attached to the front porch of their 100-year-old house.

“We just love well-crafted things,” Elizabeth explains, showing off her collection of costume jewelry. “They don’t have to be expensive.” She refers to a quote from the artist William Morris, who once said, “Have nothing in your house that you don’t know to be useful or believe to be beautiful.”

“We’re like magpies—we love pretty, shiny things,” Jack adds, “Most of the things we collect are highly detailed, much like our own work.” The Gualtieris are artists, but not “artsy” in the traditional sense, insisting for example that the words “oeuvre” and “milieu” never appear anywhere on their website, or in this profile.

Their love of artistic pursuits extends to voracious reading (including art books for inspiration), collecting fine wines for their small cellar, woodworking and historic renovation of their own home, and gardening and cooking. They also play on an adult kickball team.

To know how the Gualtieris live is to see into their careers as artists of the highest order, practicing a demanding specialty that makes them highly sought after. According to Elizabeth, very few jewelers earn a living by creating granulated jewelry.

“There’s a limited number of artists because it’s so labor intensive,” she says. “You have to do it full time to be proficient, or you lose your touch. It takes even longer to become an expert and there’s a steep learning curve.” In creating their unique pieces, the

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Photo courtesy of ZAFFIRO © ZAFFIRO

INTRODUCING

Elizabeth first encountered granulated jewelry in an archaeological museum when she was studying language in Florence, Italy.

Gualtieris combine their artistic vision with skilful, scientific precision, working in a medium they control but also allow to run a little wild on occasion. All of which may explain why the granulation technique has been lost several times over the centuries.

Elizabeth first encountered granulated jewelry in an archaeological museum when she was studying language in Florence, Italy. Back at the University of Kansas, she learned the basics of the technique from her metalsmithing professor— a former student of John Paul Miller, the most recent incarnation of ancient granulation masters. She loved antiques as a child, and remembers that her father traveled to India when she was very young and brought home incredibly decorative artwork, such as an exotic chess set that still sits in the Gualtieris' living room. Early exposure to high design clearly had an effect on her ultimate career choice even though a childhood aptitude test suggested she become an auto mechanic.

Jack, who was studying industrial design when the couple met while working at a custom jewelry store, collected seashells as a child and wanted to be an architect, but found that field imposed too many rules on his active imagination. While designing and handcrafting granulated jewelry imposes its own requirements of technique, it has also allowed Jack’s creative side to blossom.

Jack and Elizabeth also learned the business end of being goldsmiths/jewelers from that in-store experience during and right after college. Elizabeth says, “Peter, the owner, was my mentor, and we learned many of our good business practices and proper jewelry standards from him.”

After college and marriage, the pair studied and practiced granulation in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Since establishing their own studio in Portland in 1996 they’ve experimented with

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Photo courtesy of ZAFFIRO © ZAFFIRO

INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

Zaffiro’s (the name means sapphire in Italian) fanatically original pieces incorporate shapes and colors of stones from around the world—and not always the ones you’d expect.

non-traditional color combinations for granulated jewelry and developed alloys and techniques for granulating in 22 karat rose and white gold, as well as platinum. They work almost exclusively with recycled gold. Jack’s ultimate goal is to create a piece that combines all the color combinations.

Much of the couple’s work incorporates colorful gemstones, and reflects influences as varied as Etruscan craftsmanship and urban architecture. “Sometimes our pieces are inspired by specific stones,” Elizabeth says. “We pick stones based on their personalities—some are just livelier than others. We use many unusual and distinctive varieties of stones.” Jack adds, “Sometimes we design a piece around a specific unique gemstone and sometimes one of us has a vision or inspiration that needs to be created, and we find the right stones to make the idea work.”

Zaffiro’s (the name means sapphire in Italian) fanatically original pieces incorporate shapes and colors of stones from around the world—and not always the ones you’d expect. The top five stones that appear in their work are rainbow moonstones, boulder opals, unusually colored sapphires, baroque pearls, and tourmalines. The artists build every piece as a one-of-a-kind, highly original creation. While themes occasionally repeat, each granulation pattern is unique—making the pieces not only more beautiful but also adding to their value.

The Gualtieris name their collections after friends or beautiful plants or concepts related to the designs of the pieces in them. For example, their “Primavera” series is based on Karl Blossfeld’s photographs of flowers. The “Patricia” series was inspired by their favorite client, who wanted more sparkles (i.e. diamonds) in a piece. Jack and Elizabeth experimented with insetting gemstones inside gold granules to accomplish this effect. “We try not to be bound by price points, trends, or marketing considerations when we create a piece.” Jack explains. Much like their garden, he says, “The artistic process is organic.”

“We want people to have not only an aesthetic connection with our work but also some kind of metaphysical or transcendent connection,” Elizabeth adds. “We want our jewelry to be a manifestation of something beautiful inside the person.”

Zaffiro’s timeless, handcrafted modern heirlooms have won many national jewelry design awards and appeared in national exhibitions and books. Their green chile stew is pretty good, too.

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Photo courtesy of ZAFFIRO © ZAFFIRO

INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

THE ART OF GRANULATION The story of the style of jewelry created by Zaffiro begins over 3000 years ago in Etruria which is now modern day central Italy. Etruscan goldsmiths, influenced by even older work of Greek origin, began creating jewelry that showed fantastically detailed images like seed pods or lion’s heads made entirely out of tiny spheres of almost pure gold. These spheres were carefully arranged on thin beaten sheets of gold and then the entire piece was heated to a temperature high enough to form a permanent bond between the surface and the spheres. The finest examples of jewelry in this style were produced between the eighth and second centuries, B.C.E. Even with modern tools and knowledge few goldsmiths today have sufficient skill to compete with the Etruscan’s mastery of this process.

This goldsmithing technique, called granulation, would fall from fashion around 6oo C.E. and the skills and knowledge needed to create this exquisite jewelry would vanish for more than a thousand years.

During the first half of the 1800’s several excavations were carried out in the vicinity of Rome (Cerveteri, Toscanella and Vulci) which revealed resplendent ancient Etruscan granulated jewelry. The famous Victorian goldsmith, Alessandro Castellani, studied these artifacts in great detail to unravel the method of fabrication. It was, however, not until after his death that the puzzle of the granulation bond was finally solved, in the early part of the 20th century.

Although the secret remained undisclosed to Castellani and his contemporaries, they started an archaeological revival of Etruscan jewelry around the 1850’s deploying goldsmithing techniques to reproduce some of the finest ancient jewelry ever excavated. Many of their objects are now in important jewelry collections around the globe, together with the original counterparts.

In the tradition of ancient Etruscan craftsmen, each one-of-akind piece created by Zaffiro is individually handcrafted by either Jack or Elizabeth Gualtieri. They start with pure 24karat gold and using a custom alloy “recipe”, making their own 22 karat sheet, wire and granules. The granules are made in 12 different sizes ranging from .14 millimeters to 3.5 millimeters in diameter. Though they use a virtually identical process to that employed several millennia ago, these artists don’t want

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to recreate historical works. Their designs are a distillation of influences from a modern world that bring an individual spirit to this remarkable ancient technique.

Looking beyond the traditional, Zaffiro has expanded from the classic 22kt yellow gold granulation into a variety of metal colors and combinations, each having its own collection: Classic, Chiara, Etrusco, Jacqueline, Meredith and Isabella.

One-of-a-kind pieces make up the majority of each collection, with a limited production line available in the Etrusco style. Limited production means that Zaffiro will reproduce a particular design in small quantities, yet these pieces are also individually handcrafted and meet the same high standards as the one-of-a-kind pieces.

The Classic Collection is Zaffiro’s distinctive interpretation of traditional 22kt yellow gold granulation. The Chiara Collection is platinum granulation onto 22kt yellow gold. The Meredith Collection is 22kt white gold granulation onto 22kt white gold.

The Jacqueline Collection is 22kt rose gold granulation onto 22kt rose gold. The Isabella Collection is platinum granulation onto platinum. The Etrusco Collection is 22kt yellow gold granulation onto oxidized fine silver (in the one-of-a-kind pieces only), the limited edition Etrusco line incorporates granulated 22kt yellow gold elements soldered to sterling silver. The Chiara, Meredith, Jacqueline and Isabella Collections are methods of granulation that have been developed

by Zaffiro. In addition, the Meredith and Jacqueline Collections are proprietary 22kt gold alloys that have been developed by Zaffiro specifically for the granulation process.

Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri are proud of their particular contribution to the ongoing story of granulation. Given the amount of hand work required, Zaffiro produces no more than 100 to 120 pieces on average, in a year. Each piece is destined to find a collector who will appreciate the effort and artistry involved and hopefully, the history too

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COVER STORY

FA RAH KHAN

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COVER STORY

FA RAH KHAN Le Jardin Exotique

Photo courtesy of FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY Š FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but also an artist of masterpieces and an orator of stories. She can be called a jewel alchemist who triumphantly moulds her thoughts into mastery and exquisite gems into jewellery. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible.

An Ornate columbian kite shape emerald cuff weighing 151.24 cts set with carved Aquamarine leafs in 18 kt yellow gold & diamonds by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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COVER STORY

The collection – Le Jardin Exotique by Farah Khan is a palette of vibrant precious gemstones playfully set in unique colour combinations using nature as its central theme of inspiration to create breathtaking pieces of jewellery that are picturesque in design and form. An enticing journey of mystic mélanges to Imperial embraces, every piece of jewellery is an untouched allure of the gem patio.

Carvings teamed with faceted gemstones and cabochons transfix you into a magical world of mystery, fantasy and fairy tale romance. Dynamic designs recreate the aura of quixotic mythologies to blossomed serenities, envisioning the countless stories that remain unexpressed. A delightful caravan of vivid dreams that glide through age and time.

The collection is a exotic mix of intricate hand-made necklaces, sautoirs, earrings, multifinger rings, cuffs and armlets. Each and every piece has been laboriously crafted and is distinctive in design.

Le Jardin Exotique will bewitch your senses and transport you into a world of exotic gardens, royal fantasies and mythical mysteria.

Farah Khan-Ali is a renowned Jewellery designer and gemologist who’s foray the jewellery line was purely by chance when she decided to do a course in Gemology at the renowned Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica, California in 1992. She graduated at the top of her class.

Farah Khan-Ali has always been creatively inclined. Her sense of visual perception stimulates her senses to see design in the most least expected places. In her own words she says “I view the world around us from a different perspective. What necessarily is to others is not what I see it as. I am captivated by our natural environment and any form, shape that catches my fancy stimulates me to translate that inanimate thought into an animate object of beauty and art.”

Having designed for some of the top Bollywood celebrities and people from India's foremost business families, she insists on being a perfectionist who loves to please herself first so that so that she can eventually please her clients. She admits that she has to do everything well so that it all comes together eventually.

With 21 years of focus and experience in this field, she still feels like a creatively inclined soul who happened to come into Jewellery Designing by chance, only to discover that she was born for it.

“When I play with precious gemstones its like creating an object of beauty and desire, one that outlives its wearer and brings a sea of memories with it when it is handed down generation.” says Farah Khan As she says “ I don’t love to design, I live to design” and “the day I discover myself, I shall cease to exist”.

FARAH KHAN jewellery is distinctive in style. It is intricate yet striking, bold yet feminine.

“My designs are flamboyant, ornate and adventurous. I believe that jewellery should make you feel like a princess when you wear it no matter how big or small the piece of jewellery is, it should be eye catching and make the wearer feel special.”

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In a short span the Farah Khan Fine Jewellery label has become synonymous with setting high standards for style, quality, detailing, design and elegance. This is a line of limited edition jewels that lets you indulge in the luxury of affluence..

"Where Precious becomes Priceless" Unusual colours combined with exotic gems set the basis for Farah Khan’s novel designs and all the pieces are set and crafted using the highest standards in manufacturing techniques thus never compromising on the finish. All of Farah Khan’s pieces are manufactured in house in their 9200 square feet jewellery design workshop that houses 80 craftsmen currently thus maintaining a stringent quality control and check on each and every piece that is manufactured.

The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery brand has emerged as a high-end fine jewellery brand in the Indian & International Market scenario and is recognized for its quality and craftsmanship For Farah, inspiration begins with a strong emotion. You have to “feel” to be inspired. Design is not about getting inspired from what you have seen in jewellery, but the process of being able to find design wherever you go. It is pertinent to note that human beings think alike but it is their interpretation, which makes a difference. I am inspired through the process of life & my experiences of it.”

The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery Brand is a celebration of today’s woman who is feminine yet strong, graceful yet determined. It is about a real woman, one that is sensual in her being and confident in her existence, a woman who is beautiful inside out.

Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but an artist of masterpieces and an orator of stories. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible and her tales of thought, inspiration and craftsmanship is narrated within her bejeweled jewellery theatre.

Pioneering and carving a niche redefining the jewellery industry & the first to create bespoke jewellery designs...

She sees the world through a precious gem encrusted lens for sure.

The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery story is a twenty year romance with exquisite gems stones. A romance that crafts and chisels metal into life, One that outlives its wearer and lives forever. Becoming classic and timeless, Where precious becomes priceless. Today, her jewels leave a signature behind, Farah Khan Fine Jewellery, is ornately alive.

Farah Khan doesn’t love to design. Farah Khan lives to design!!!!

At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to showcase the amazing creations of Farah Khan for the second time since the creation of the magazine. Our issue #04 featuring two articles about Farah Khan was one of your favorites and we totally understand the reason of so much love for her creations. We are sure you will enjoy these amazing Farah Khan pieces as you always do.

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Photo courtesy of FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY Š FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

COVER STORY

A majestic peacock inspired tanzanite and emerald diamond cuff in 18 kt yellow gold by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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COVER STORY

A Grandiose Peacock inspired emerald and tanzanite necklace with a 51cts Columbian emerald surrounded by carved tanzanites in 18 kt yellow gold & diamonds by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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To find great beauty, one must look beyond what one can see, Deep within the inner depths of ones soul, For what cannot be seen is alas a limitation of a barren locked mind.

Seek then to discover the world and thou shall find yourself as I did find I, For only when you look, you shall see

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A graceful South sea swan ring set in 18 kt yellow accented with a blue sapphire marquise and shaded ruby and pink sapphire and diamonds by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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COVER STORY

Carved Ruby necklace with Rubelite and Aquamarine leaf carvings accented by diamonds set in 18 kt yellow gold by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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COVER STORY

Baroque pearl earrings in 18 kt yellow gold with Rubelite, carved leaf aquamarines & diamonds

by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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Peacock inspired emerald ear jackets in 18 kt white gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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An elegant diamond swan ring accented with an emerald marquise in 18 kt white gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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Emerald bead south sea pearl earrings in 18 kt yellow gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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A Jeweled Carved Aquamarine and emerald diamond cuff in 18 kt yellow gold, by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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A Jeweled Carved Aquamarine and emerald diamond cuff in 18 kt yellow gold, by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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A Stunning pair of emerald, blue sapphire and diamond earrings in 18 kt yellow gold by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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Royal Rubellite & Kyanite ring in 18 kt yellow gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.

Price available upon request

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From left to right : Majestic columbian Emerald diamond ring with 19.89 cts. of Emerald in 18 kt yellow gold.

Royal columbian Emerald diamond ring with 30.42 cts. of emerald in 18 kt yellow gold.

Magnificent columbian Emerald diamond ring with 27cts. of emerald in 18 kt yellow gold.

All rings by Farah Khan. Price available upon request

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An elegant parrot armlet in 18 kt yellow gold with emeralds, sapphires & diamonds by Farah Khan .

Price available upon request

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6

INTERVIEW

WALLACE CHAN

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WAL L AC E C H A N An artist, along with extraordinary creativity, must also possess passion and breadth of mind, a philosopher's way of thinking and a craftsman's superior technique. This combination permits the artist to create freely and set new standards - touching souls while breaking every frame of references.

Wallace Chan - a legend - continues today to make breakthroughs in new innovations, making the impossible become possible. His jewelry art exhibits limitless creativity and endless surprises.

Interview to Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

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INTERVIEW

Wallace Chan founded his own gemstone carving workshop when he was 17. Wallace Chan grew up in Hong Kong, spending his youth mastering Eastern sculpture and the Western art of gemstones. After twenty years of sculpting he traveled to Europe to study the art of this Continent.

In 1987, he invented the “Wallace Cut”, an illusionary carving technique that transcends dimensions. As a result, he was crowned the “Carving Prodigy from Asia” by European media. In 2001, after a decade immersing in Buddhist art, he created the Great Stupa for Fo Guang Shan, Taiwan.

Chan also spent 8 years to experiment with titanium, the most bio-friendly metal known to date. He surprised BASELWORLD 2007 with a series of jewelry creations featuring ethereal titanium structures, the technical secrets of which he later unveiled to the world.

This prompted worldwide recognition in the jewelry industry, earning him countless international design awards and respect amongst the top designers and collectors around the globe.

Chan was the first Chinese jewelry artist ever invited to exhibit and deliver speeches at the GIA headquarter. In 2012 and 2014, he emerged at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris as the first and only Asian artist ever invited to exhibit at this prestigious fair.

International media has featured Wallace Chan extensively, introducing his creations as well as innovations, to name but a few – the patented jadeite thinning and luminosity enhancing technology, and his revolutionary gemstone-setting-gemstone technique.

Today, Wallace Chan is recognized as the jewelry creator, artist and philosopher.

At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to host in this issue, an exclusive interview of Mr. Wallace Chan - a legend - because Wallace Chan's unique and innovative talents combined to his limitless creativity combined to innovative design and revolutionary technique make him "A Modern Renaissance Man".

Mr. Chan, tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got there.

In 1973, I became an apprentice for a sculptor, working in a family-run carving workshop.

I followed the sculptor for 9 months, learning about traditional Chinese carvings. After that, I opened my own gemstone workshop. My 42 years of creative life could be divided into 4 major periods: 10 years of traditional carving, 10 years of crystal carving, 10 years of Buddhist art and a jewelry period since 2003. I started with non-transparent materials, e.g. malachite and ivory, and moved on to crystal carvings in order to pursue a dialogue with light, and then came a Buddhist art stage, during which I created the Great Stupa for Fo Guang Shan in Taiwan. It was for the creation of the Great Stupa that I learnt about gemology, metallurgy, physics, structures and color theories etc., which became the foundation for my jewelry period.

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I don’t believe in the stroke of genius, I believe that inspiration comes from the accumulation of multilayered memories, experiences and emotions.

After completion of the Stupa, I went on a 6-month journey, following a Zen master. This period of time expanded my mind and my feelings, when I see the flowers blooming, I feel their happiness; when I see the flowers fading, I feel their sadness. After this 6-month journey, I started carving and sculpting with different materials to express my feelings about life. Until one day, a friend came to me with two diamonds, each of them weighing more than 20 carats, he asked me to create a pair of earrings for him, and that was the start of my jewelry period, using jewelry as an embodiment of my emotions, memories and thinking.

Was there a defining point in your career, and if so, how did it shape you as a designer?

There can be more than one defining moment in one’s life. Now that when I think about it, the moments that are the most defining appeared when I was most depressed. Not long after I moved my workshop to Macau I started to experience some serious setbacks, I did not earn enough, I worked without rest, and I could only live and sleep on a rooftop.

Living like this caused me a stroke and I had to stop working for 3 months. It tortured me physically and emotionally. I recovered, but most of my apprentices left the workshop, only one decided to stay with me.

This experience has redefined the word “failure” in the dictionary on my mind. Since then, I have learnt to deal with failures using a composed attitude. Failure is normal, and when it comes, we ought to confront it with calmness. If we are depressed by failures, we stray farther and farther away from our dreams.

Where do you get your inspiration ?

I don’t believe in the stroke of genius, I believe that inspiration comes from the accumulation of multi-layered memories, experiences and emotions.

There’re two core elements in a creative process: human existence on the one hand, and jewelry as a symbol on the other. To me, creativity starts with the very fact of my own existence. If I erase every preconceived concept and frame of reference that I have, start from an empty beginning and look at everything with the eyes of a baby, that’s when creativity comes in. In Buddhism it is the “Baby’s Perspective”. In meditation language: I don’t exist, all is me and I am all. In our language, it is empathy. When designing a jewelry work, if you can erase yourself and enter into a dialogue with the stone you hold in your hands, creativity will come naturally.

In a piece of jewelry you do not just see the design and the materials, you also read the culture and tradition behind, and that culture and tradition is on the other hand the catalyst igniting the future.

In the magnificent universe, the Nature, each man and each thing has its own being and living. Taoism emphasizes Harmony with the Universe, and man, like all other elements, is a microcosm for the universe. Man, jewelry, or art, has no difference in this sense.

There is a ‘quiet place’ I look for regarding my pursuit of jewelry art, this ‘quiet place’ is much related to the sense of Zen. My sphere of perfection is my pursuit of imperfection, an ideal state of work may just be a non-ideal creation, sometimes it seems to us that something is ideal, but behind that ideal something may lie something that is not ideal,

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INTERVIEW

Fish’s Dream Brooch

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

With a rare ametrine of 87.35 carats as its main theme, a variety of jewels including fancy colored diamond, fancy colored sapphire, pearl and mother of pearl, as well as 44 pearls, an angelfish of vibrant colors has come alive with an opal radiating colors as its eye. With meticulous care and artistry, Wallace Chan carved in the fish’s ametrine a 3D palace using his very own carving technique. It is a 3D sculpture with contours smooth and elegant, embedded with jewels of brilliance. The world underwater is ever-changing, its lights and water shadows cast over it a mystery: is there a palace underneath? This angelfish must have come from the Dragon Palace, intending to reveal to us the magical underwater world.

Ametrine 87.35ct, Fancy Colored Diamond, Fancy Colored Sapphire, Pearl, Mother of Pearl, Opal

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INTERVIEW

Let Life be Beautiful

Brooch

Let life be beautiful like summer flowers, let it bloom in light and colors. Let your heart feel for the lively, let it embrace the beauty of the sun.

Titanium is tamed and turned into a whimsical summer flower, the petals cradle the bright and beautiful emerald main stone. The gentle pink and purple hue makes a lovely contrast to the luxuriant green, and together they express a strong sense of vitality. Diamonds are skillfully set on the petals, and above the diamonds there are fancy colored sapphires. The sapphires radiate gleaming colors in the diamonds’ sparkles, like flowers caressed by a sweet summer sun.

Emerald 1pc 10.40ct Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Orange Sapphire Yellow Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Ruby

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In my 42 years of practice, I have tried using most kinds of metal, and I have found a very special kind for my creation – titanium.

Traditionally, people use gold or silver to be the jewelry structure, but if we want a bigger canvas, namely more space to create, the weight of gold will then become a burden or restriction, which limits the development of a jewelry piece.

but what that is not ideal often inspires us to create, in this sense the state of our work is thus ideal, this is a state of mind.

What we see is never as good as the existence of the things alone, there are many unknown worlds no matter on the inside or out, as well as many things and dimensions, the duets of musicians express their worlds, though we cannot understand what the birds say, there must be another world among their whispers. In this world there are many worlds that we should explore, if you do this, there will never be a lack of inspiration when you create.

Is your jewellery inspired from architecture ?

Jewelry pieces are like mini-architecture. If architecture houses our bodies, jewelry houses our emotions and memories. Talking about my jewelry pieces, they are structured layer-upon-layer, the gemstones often hold one another in place to create support, and it is also very important that I converse with the light to compose the space for it to get in, move around and for reflections to take place where they should. Jewelry is indeed much like architecture to me. Some of the setting methods I invented are inspired by the wisdom and techniques of traditional Chinese architecture, e.g. the tenon-and-mortise joints.

Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration ?

I prefer not to be confined by any artistic or historical style and period, this is the only way to keep my inspiration free and ever-flowing. Religions, philosophies and literatures of all ages are great heritages left to us by our ancestors, thus I am always grateful for such treasures and am always keen to learn more about the past which I deem as a strong foundation for our development.

Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor ?

In my 42 years of practice, I have tried using most kinds of metal, and I have found a very special kind for my creation – titanium. Traditionally, people use gold or silver to be the jewelry structure, but if we want a bigger canvas, namely more space to create, the weight of gold will then become a burden or restriction, which limits the development of a jewelry piece. So I began to wonder whether there was a kind of metal that could overcome the problem of weight. After a series of experiment, I found titanium. I found it perfect for jewelry making. It is bio-friendly, thus it is often used in the medical field. When titanium is placed inside the human body, it takes only two months for the metal to blend with the muscles and nerves. It weighs only 1/5 of gold, but its memory is 10 times stronger than gold. Titanium allows me to make very small claws, and it can be made into different colors to match the wonderful colors of gemstones. For these reasons, I have freed 4/5 of the space for my creation by replacing titanium with gold and silver.

In 1987, I invented the Wallace Cut. Wallace Cut is a form of multi-dimensional engraving, but what we should focus here when talking about this technique, is not what we carve in to the stone, but how carving is done without any space to move around in the stone. It takes very precise calculation for the carving space to be planned and the light to be refracted. We must look at how we interact with the light through carving, in order to carve one face and make it look as if there were five faces in total through the magic of light.

I would say that the process of inventing Wallace Cut in the first place was “a struggle of consciousness”. From inventing the tools to perfecting the technique, it took me two

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INTERVIEW

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Emerald Castle

Ring

An emerald castle stands high above the clouds, its luxuriant green narrates a celestial myth. How does a castle become a heritage, and we become what we are? A rough emerald is juxtaposed with the polished precious stones here to express the destructive power of civilization – the barbarian nature of it, however, with the right balance struck, an elevated sense of beauty and harmony can then be achieved.

Emerald, Rough Emerald Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Tsavorite Garnet

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INTERVIEW

In 1987, I invented the Wallace Cut. Wallace Cut is a form of multidimensional engraving, but what we should focus here when talking about this technique, is not what we carve in to the stone, but how carving is done without any space to move around in the stone.

years, during which time I spent six months working as an apprentice in a factory, trying to learn about mechanics. I was working, inventing and training myself at the same time, let alone the fact that I had to earn a living. It was indeed a period of struggle.

But “Wallace Cut” itself is also “a movement of consciousness”.

Wallace Cut is a carving technique which creates an illusion in transparent materials by combining medieval 360-degree intaglio into 3-dimension engraving. The resulting quintuple reflection unifies these features with precise calculation and angle casting and forms a 3-dimension and multi-line reflection.

I had to make use of reversed thinking in the process of creating the Wallace Cut, left is right, deep is shallow, and front is back. It was a process that consumed energy of both the body and the mind, making it so much more than simply a craftsman’s work. All in all, I would say that the Wallace Cut is a practice with which the meaning of the saying “abnormal is normal” is actualized.

Moreover, the tools that were available on the market were not sophisticated enough. I found out that I could use the dentist’s tool for it. But the drill rotated for 36,000 times per minute, and the heat it generated while carving would damage the stone. At last I realized that I had to do the carving under water (to cool it down). So here it went: I carved, I dried the stone, checked to see if it was alright, (because one tiny mistake would be reflected into four more mistakes, and the whole piece of work would be ruined,) and then I put it into water to carve again. It was a stroke by stroke process, I forgot how many hours I worked on each piece, but at the end I felt that my mind, my hand, and the tool were all working as one, it was my consciousness doing the carving. It was 1987, it was

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INTERVIEW

Mon rêve Ring

Wallace Chan has arrived at the fundamental quality of gemstones, its light, colors and forms with this ring titled Mon Reve. The tourmalines’ regular shape and the diamond gleams together inspire a sense of harmony. It represents beauty, simplicity and elegance, as well as an architectural style that resembles a castle in one’s dreams.

Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

Green Tourmaline 1 pc 29.22ct, Rubellite 1 pc 12.38ct Green Tourmaline, Diamond, Tsavorite Garnet Pink Sapphire, Lapis Lazuli

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Now and Always

Necklace

This majestic jewelry piece is themed on the worldrenowned Wallace Cut invented by Wallace Chan in 1987.

From inside the aquamarine pendant, five faces look out, as if someone caught inside the facets turns to look in all directions. The faces are named Horae. In Greek mythology, Horae represents the goddesses of the seasons, who are the governors of the law of life and natural justice. The Wallace Cut pendant revolves around the interplay of change and permanency, the former explains “now”, and the latter denotes “always”. The pendant shows a face that changes, which symbolizes the idea that change itself is permanent.

The soul-soothing blue of the aquamarine evokes images of the sky, wind and water, and radiates an aura of natural tranquility. Surrounded by eight pieces of amethyst, the main stone is cradled by the elegance and feminine beauty of the amethyst’s purple color. Sweet opals are set around the pendant, adding to it another tone and texture to create a dreamy feel. The necklace signifies the classical Greek temple columns, delicately crafted with aquamarine and diamonds, glorifying the sacred presence of the goddesses. A smaller pendant balances at the back of the necklace, sending forth true comfort in all senses.

Aquamarine (Wallace Cut) 135.4ct Amethyst, Diamond, Blue Topaz, Sapphire, Opal Detail of the aquamarine see page 73

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My creations are my homework, and I am getting my homework done in the best way I can. And I believe that, at the end, only history itself can give us the grades we deserve.

Each experience in life assures me this: if I get my work done to perfection today, my dreams can be realized tomorrow.

one of the craziest carving periods in my life. I surrendered myself to the magic of light and shadow, and found great joy in it.

I themed the Wallace Cut on Horae, the Goddess of Seasons from the Greek mythologies. To me, she is the past, the present and the future; she is now, and she is always. In Chinese we have a saying, “change itself is permanent,” and the ancient Chinese had another saying,” the people in the past could not see the moon tonight, but the moon we see tonight did shine on the people in the past.” I think the meaning of life and our state of being are well explained through these two quotes. Comparing to the greatness of the universe, or the endlessness of time, we, human beings, are small like dust, vanishing in no time. But the smallness of our being can achieve something great, and at the same time, the greatness of the universe is made up of the accumulation of something small.

So I say: Limitless is the universe, inseparable are the big and the small. Every idea, every invention and every piece of work of mine, are realized and created upon this belief.

What according to you contributed to your success ?

I think I am still far away from being successful. A lucky person can enjoy up to 30,000 days in his life. And as I grow older, I am becoming more and more aware of the fast passage of time, and I often feel that I don’t have enough time. My creations are my homework, and I am getting my homework done in the best way I can. And I believe that, at the end, only history itself can give us the grades we deserve.

Each experience in life assures me this: if I get my work done to perfection today, my dreams can be realized tomorrow.

What kind of person wears your jewelry ?

My collectors, no matter where they come from or which religion they belong to, share the common traits of being confident, successful and discerning. They don’t go after the market value promoted by brand products, instead they look for stories and meanings in a piece of jewelry. They are knowledgeable about gemstones and the jewelry culture, and often express a keen interest in art. I don’t have a retail shop, and I don’t do advertisement, and it is mainly “word of mouth” that leads my collectors to me.

For more information, please visit www.wallace-chan.com

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Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

Gleams of Waves

Brooch

The fish swims nonchalantly towards us, its iridescent cloak rich in colour. Its billowing fins move to the rhythm of the ocean’s waves as it glides unaware how desolate the seas would be without it. The fish’s diaphanous sails compel us to gaze, to watch as it passes by in its watery world.

Wallace Chan is exploring the concept of existence, he is at one with the fish as he sculpts the jewelry art piece, he is aware of nothing except the fish; he wonders if such a creature is aware that it is swimming in water as we are aware of the air around us.

The fish beats its tempo and its cadence washes away the masks on reality to reveal our true selves. It brings tranquility and freedom, it is our reassuring companion as we navigate the waves of life.

Yellow Diamond 1pc 6.68ct Yellow Diamond, Ruby, Pink Sapphire

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INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

Cicada’s Song Great poets from ancient China sang the praises of cicadas using poetry, which explains why they are crowned as a significant cultural symbol in Chinese history.

Cicadas live on trees and subsist on the trees’ fluid, for this they are seen as the representation of noble character in the eyes of ancient Chinese scholars. Sima Qian, a famous historian from the Western Han dynasty, praised cicadas as coming out of the soil yet living without dirt, standing high above the world’s earthliness. Cao Zhi, a highly esteemed literary scholar from the Eastern Han dynasty, also wrote about cicadas and said they resembled the characters of Bo Yi from the Yin and Zhou period, who sacrificed himself in protest of political violence, and Liu Xiahui from the Spring and Autumn period, who refused to give up his loyalty for personal glory. Both Bo Yi and Liu Xianhui were seen as role models for emperors and officials in feudal China.

Cicadas sing the loudest in summer, their songs come after the orioles have sung their farewells. They celebrate life with voices that are heard and echoed through forests. By the end of summer, their limpid voices send forth a sense of tranquil joy. Poet Wang Wei from the Tang dynasty included cicadas in one of his poems, Wang Chuan Xian Ju Zeng Pei Xiu Cai Di, expressing the state of mind when nature and man are as one, “cold mountains turn luxuriantly green, and autumn water runs. Standing by a wooden door, here come the wind and cicadas’ song.”

In Chinese, Cicada ( ) and Zen ( ) share similar sounds. The cicada is the embodiment of a noble character. The voices of cicadas speak to our hearts and enlighten our minds. This symphony of nature leads our hearts to the heart of heaven and earth, and turn all into one.

Nature’s Treasure & Refined Craftsmanship With extraordinary craftsmanship, the exquisite jadeite is transformed into the cicada’s body.

Through precise calculation and his sense for light and extensive gemstone knowledge, Wallace Chan sends light racing and pulsating along the jadeite’s surface, enabling the green refractions of light to magnify each other and sharpen the dark green colors. Precise calculation is required to ensure that the materials’ potential is brought to the full. The accurate judgment of thickness, type, quality and color

of the jadeite is a result of the experiences obtained through repeated experiments and attempts.

Stilled Life is gifted with a pair of wings of extreme thinness, and only through refined craftsmanship can this finesse be achieved. With two years of devotion, Wallace Chan has invented a technique that enables jade to be carved wafer thin, and it is not at all surprising that this technique has secured a patent.

Colors are interrelated with our knowledge of this world, for they are full of symbolism. It is a waltz of colors when the fancy colored diamonds’ yellow meets with the jadeite’s green.

These are the two most commonly seen colors in nature, with yellow from the sun and earth, and green from trees and mountains. In Chinese culture, yellow is the color for royalty, while jadeite stands for prestige. The yellow tone of the diamond and the green tone of the jadeite interact to enhance each other as their cultural meanings interact to create a deeper symbolism, accompanied by nature’s beauty a touch of grandeur gleams its glamour.

The cicada has in its embrace an extremely handsome green jadeite (15.5x17.10mm), and when the cicada is flipped over, the eye is surprised by the appearance of a cabochon lavender jade (13.5x14.70mm), set on the back of the jadeite. Jadeite beads and yellow diamonds are set upside down as a border circling the main stone, having foregone the conventional setting style and invented a new setting method. The fancy colored diamonds appear in a triangular shape which creates a sharp contrast to the jadeite beads, contributing to a visual excitement with the tangling of form, color and light.

Nurtured by nature’s selfless love and beauty, it symbolizes also the virtues of a juzi, which forms the basis of a person’s enlightenment.

The Zen mind is achieved only through wisdom and a kind heart.

Each jadeite bead on the cicada’s body is placed with patience and mastery. Instead of using a small metal pin to hold the bead, the “inner mortise and tenon setting method” is adopted. Here the jadeite beads are given a special cut so that each of them fits perfectly on the cicada’s body without visible settings.

The natural form of the cicada’s body is crafted with patience, as it requires many more hours to adopt the “inner mortise and tenon method,” setting the beads one by one. The cicada is not made only for the pleasure of the eye; it is made for posterity - a creation of timelessness.

This cicada embodies the depth of Chinese culture and forever shall it stand to symbolize the true, the good and the beautiful.

Oriental Beauty Beyond jewelry, Stilled Life is a sculpture. The contours of the cicada’s body are delicately and attentively carved on the titanium structure, life-like and ready to awake at anytime. Each line is carved and polished with the master’s hand, spreading power and tension through the cicada’s body and limbs, demonstrating the accumulated experience of a life devoted to the art of sculpting and carving. This is a wonderful example of Wallace Chan’s “Wearable Sculptural Art”, showcasing the excellence of a skilled and dedicated master sculptor.

The extraordinary craftsmanship of this cicada echoes the Cicada poem written by Yu Shi’nan from the Tang dynasty,

When imagination overrides reality, there is no other way but to transcend reality. The closed setting of jadeite beads makes a fine example.

The jadeite beads are gifted with replacing the usual metal settings, securing the main stone in place. Precise spatial calculation allows the precious stones to be set with the smallest of metal settings, thus creating the illusion that the fancy colored diamonds are held in place without metal.

Drinking fresh dews, trilling on sparse phoenix trees.

On this body of majestic green, two eyes of ruby red gleam with fondness. The sparkling red eyes of the cicada shine with wisdom. The beguiling pigeon-blood ruby eyes evoke all that is beauty in a mortal world, but hold back, look at the lustrous imperial jadeite in its embrace.

Through this masterpiece, Wallace Chan has expressed the glamour and nature of the imperial jadeite and merged the noble character of the cicada with the precious jadeite using skills and craftsmanship that shine with poetic gleam.

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Perching high, far their voices strew, needing no aid from the autumn wind.

The poem expresses through cicadas that a person must stand high and be noble for him or her to speak loud and clear, to be reputed in far off lands.

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INTERVIEW

Stilled Life Brooch

Imperial Jadeite, Lavender Jade, Ruby, Fancy Colored Diamond

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INTERVIEW

Elation Brooch

This work takes the synergy of titanium and jewelry art beyond the conventional to an artistic height. A single solid titanium piece is hollowed out and carved line by line into a mother elephant and a calf. Fancy colored diamonds are set around the elephants depicting the forms of butterflies, by which the calf is enchanted and amused. Rough diamonds are embedded underneath the elephant feet to create flows of water, a symbol of tenderness, purity and eternity.

Elation tells the story of loving motherhood by showing the love and care the mother elephant has for her offspring. It further denotes the idea of how heirlooms, be them physical or spiritual kinds, are passed on from generation to generation.

Fancy Colored Diamond, Diamond, Titanium

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Photo courtesy of WALLACE CHAN © WALLACE CHAN

INTERVIEW

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A NEW MUST

CASPITA

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A NEW MUST

CAS PI TA Photo courtesy of CASPITA Š CASPITA

Caspita, in Italian, expresses admiration, joy, surprise - literally "my goodness". From the magical sound of the word's three syllables a line of fine jewellery was born, a line, which without doubt, resembles its creator.

A deep sense of intuition, fairy-tale and mystery surround all of the collections.

Every single piece of jewellery is an individual work of art and mystery for Arlène; each piece resembles a sacred ornament, uniting the seen and unseen worlds.

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A NEW MUST

Caspita is an exclamation of a thousand colours, a name chosen by Arlène Bonnant to launch her new line of fine jewellery.

Caspita, in Italian, expresses admiration, joy, surprise - literally "my goodness". This mysterious and colourful word came to the designer while reminiscing about her grandfather, who often used this expression of surprise in her presence. This spirited word helped to create a bond between them, in much the same way as a jewel can unite two people.

From the magical sound of the word's three syllables a line of fine jewellery was born, a line, which without doubt, resembles its creator.

Passionate about contemporary art, Arlène Bonnant is a recognized expert of 20th and 21st century Art. After having worked for eight years alongside Simon de Pury and Daniella Luxembourg, she acquired an acute knowledge of the art market. When de Pury & Luxembourg became Phillips de Pury & Luxembourg, following the merger with luxury giant LVMH, Arlène Bonnant pursued her role at the heart of the auction house in the Contemporary Art department. In 2005, Arlène Bonnant created AB Concepts and Dreams (ABCD), a company which catalogued and assured the preservation of a collection of 300 art objects, analysed and reproduced in the "CAP book collection".

From the art world to fine jewellery Arlène's profound involvement with works of art and her close relationship with them drove her to explore her inner world and subsequently led her to the creation of jewellery.

The transition from one to the other came very naturally to Arlène who sees a jewel as a work of art in itself.

Arlène's major sources of inspiration were provided by her fortunate trips to Greece, Italy, India, Israel and Egypt, as well as by her deep interest in books on spirituality.

Arlène was also inspired by the great painters, Goya, Mantegna, Bosh, Blake and Caravaggio. Each, in their own way, opened her eyes to the invisible.

The Swiss fine jewellery label recently debuted in London with its magical collections of creative symbolism, mysticism and diamonds at Frost of London. Diamonds and chakras, spiritual enlightenment, a sense of magic and playfulness are all thrown into the wonderful mix which is Caspita. The Geneva-based brand is highly sought after for its talismanic collections which celebrate fine art. The jewellery brand is a blend of East with West, founded by Swiss-born Arlène Bonnant, expert in contemporary art with a lifelong passion for the spiritual and the sacred.

A deep sense of intuition, fairy-tale and mystery surround all of the collections. Caspita means “oh my goodness” in Italian; a word Arlene’s grandfather would say to her during his last days while she would be by his side telling him stories or reading to him, uniting the two of them. She finds the word magical to this day and thus named her jewellery brand.

Every single piece of jewellery is an individual work of art and mystery for Arlène; each piece resembles a sacred ornament, uniting the seen and unseen worlds.

The bespoke Chakras Collection pays homage to the seven Chakras from ancient India;

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with each chakra representing the individual energy channels we have running through our bodies.

Caspita collaborated with world-famous designer and architect Zaha Hadid for a unique partnership of design, contemporary art, diamonds and cellular structures found in nature, for the SKEIN Collection.

Jewellery by Caspita is made with the finest diamonds and gemstones in the world, 18 carat gold, hand-painted enamel.

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A NEW MUST

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ESTHĂˆTE

Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle

Photo courtesy of ROBERTO COIN © ROBERTO COIN

E STH È T E

An amazing bangle by Roberto Coin

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BREATHTAKING GEMS

By Eva Kountouraki

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Photo Carlton Davis, courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.

AQUAMARINE

Tiffany bracelet with aquamarines and a diamond bow in platinum Price available upon request

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Photo Carlton Davis, courtesy of Tiffany & Co. © Tiffany & Co.

[Photo in Public domain]

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

A glamorous Tiffany & Co. brooch with a 109.73-carat emerald-cut aquamarine with an extraordinary level of color saturation. Accented with a diamond and platinum bow, the brooch epitomizes the luxury of wearing magnificent Tiffany gems.

Price available upon request

AQUAMARINE You may have never seen an aquamarine but just to the sound of its name, one can intuitively create a mental image of it. A crystal that is named after the colour of the sea-water can only be an important one. The term aquamarine first appeared in the early 1600’s and was immediately accepted, as it very successfully describes the oceanic beauty of this gem. With colours that range from a green-blue to a greenish blue or an almost pure blue, aquamarine reminds us of the transparency of a calm and clear sea.

Ancient civilizations admired and valued aquamarine and used it as a symbol of joy, vitality and everlasting youth. Ancient Romans would carve animal shaped statues out of this mineral in order to reconcile enemies, while ancient Greeks

Jewellery Historian

considered it to be a protective amulet for sailors that would ensure them a safe sail.

Aquamarine is one of the most elegant gemstones that exist and probably the most famous member of the beryl species, second to the king of greens, the emerald. It is a beautiful mineral even in its rough state as it forms euhedral sixsided columnar crystals that are usually highly transparent, evenly colored and nicely shaped. This makes aquamarine a mineral suitable both for rough crystal collectors and for use in jewelry, in the form of polished gems. Aquamarine grows in rocks that are somewhat “protected” from harsh geological conditions which often results in the formation of large and pure crystals. Some of the most beautiful speci-

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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Flower drop necklace of pear-shaped aquamarines and diamonds in 18 karat gold and platinum by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Price available upon request

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Photo Carlton Davis, courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Tiffany bangle with emerald-cut aquamarines and round brilliant diamonds in 18 karat white gold Price available upon request

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Photo courtesy of OMI GEMS © OMI GEMS

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

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BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Old myths speak about aquamarines that come from the deep oceans’ mermaids treasure chests and that hold the oceanic energy in their beauty.

mens come from the Brazilian pegmatites. Aquamarine is also found in Madagascar, Kenya and Nigeria, Pakistan, China and Siberia among other sources.

Aquamarine’s finest colour is a moderately strong, medium blue to slightly greenish blue. Years ago the public cherished aquamarines for their strong greenish tint, but in the modern markets the bluer it is the higher its value. This lead the industry to artificially enhance the natural colour of the gem in order to make it more marketable. Today, most aquamarines we find in the market have undergone a thermal treatment in order to remove the yellowish secondary colour - which our eyes perceive as green- and leave a more pure blue hue.

It is quite common to find aquamarine in big sizes in modern jewelry.

The reason why most designers prefer large aquamarines is that this is a gem that best exhibits its colour in fairly large sizes. However, some African sources like Mozambique and Madagascar are famous for producing aquamarines which can be saturated even in smaller sizes.

The largest transparent aquamarine crystal on record was the “Papamel Aquamarine” found in 1910 in Marambaia, in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil, and weighed approximately 552.500cts (110kg).

Another famous aquamarine was unearthed in the late 1980’s in the same Brazilian state. The miners that found this meter-long crystal accidentally dropped it while carrying it and it broke it in three pieces. The largest piece, which was also the finest, was later transformed into the crystal statue known with the name “Don Pedro Aquamarine” while the other two were cut and polished into many gems.

This was a very special and valuable crystal that merited to be handled by the best professional cutters. It was trusted to the skilled hands of Bernd Munsteiner in Idar-Oberstein, who has spent four months studying it and six months cutting and polishing it. The result was a gorgeous obelisk of 10.363ct that since 2011 is exhibited in the Smithsonian Institute among some of the world’s finest crystals.

Old myths speak about aquamarines that come from the deep oceans’ mermaids treasure chests and that hold the oceanic energy in their beauty. Aquamarine is an elegant gemstone, hard enough to be suitable for every-day use, beautiful enough to fill you with joy, and precious enough to demand your attention. A quiet and selfsufficient kind of elegance that merits the most careful handling.

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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Tiffany diamond bracelet with an oval aquamarine in platinum Price available upon request

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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Tiffany bracelet with an emerald-cut aquamarine and diamonds inspired by Tiffany jewelry of the 1930s Price available upon request

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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. Š Tiffany & Co.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Tiffany aquamarine and sapphire chandelier earrings in platinum Price available upon request

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BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Eva Kountouraki

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field.

She started her first collection of polished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future.

After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies.

Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all

Jewellery Historian

the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.

Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world.

Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones.

Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gempassionates.

At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue.

Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems.

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Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co. © Tiffany & Co.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

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OUR FAVES

In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we introduce you amazing “animalier� jewellery.

- Address book at page 171 -

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OUR FAVES

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ROBERTO COIN

TIFFANY & CO.

BOUCHERON

OUR FAVES

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BOUCHERON

JEWELLERY THEATRE

TIFFANY & CO.

OUR FAVES

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ROBERTO COIN

OUR FAVES

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FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

OMI PRIVÉ

CASPITA

ILIAS LALAOUNIS

OUR FAVES

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JEWELLERY THEATRE

TIFFANY & CO.

ROBERTO COIN

NIKOS KOULIS

OUR FAVES

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BOUCHERON

OUR FAVES

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FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

TIFFANY & CO.

ROBERTO COIN

LYDIA COURTEILLE

OUR FAVES

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MAGERIT

ROBERTO COIN

LYDIA COURTEILLE

ZOLOTAS

OUR FAVES

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BOUCHERON

OUR FAVES

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RICARDO BASTA

SYLVIE CORBELIN

NIKOS KOULIS

MAGERIT

OUR FAVES

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CARRERA Y CARRERA

BOUCHERON

MATHON

MORPHﾃ右

PASQUALE BRUNI

OUR FAVES

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QEELIN

OUR FAVES

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FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY

SYLVIE CORBELIN

MORPHﾃ右

MAGERIT

MOUSSON ATELIER

OUR FAVES

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MOUSSON ATELIER

LYDIA COURTEILLE

ROBERTO COIN

GUMUCHIAN

BOUCHERON

OUR FAVES

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TIFFANY & CO.

QEELIN

RICARDO BASTA

OUR FAVES

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ORNELLA IANNUZZI

LYDIA COURTEILLE

JEWELLERY THEATRE

CARRERA Y CARRERA

GUMUCHIAN

OUR FAVES

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ROBERTO COIN

MOUSSON ATELIER

PICCHIOTTI

TIFFANY & CO.

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MATHON

SHAWISH

QEELIN

MOUSSON ATELIER

OUR FAVES

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LEVIAN

RICARDO BASTA

PASQUALE BRUNI

LYDIA COURTEILLE

OUR FAVES

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SPOTLIGHT

GORALSKA

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SPOTLIGHT

G ORALSKA Photo courtesy of GORALSKA © GORALSKA

From the depths of the earth to feminine and urban high-end jewelry.

Born in a family of diamond dealers for three generations, Corinne Evens grew up surrounded by rough gemstones with an aura of mystery. Cradled by the stones’ structural poetry and the jewellery grammar, she yearned to break the jewellery taboos and reinvent a new way of consuming... diamonds!

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GORALSKA is the combination of three concepts: creativity, femininity, and audacity.

In Semitic languages, the word « goral » means destiny; and the suffi x « ska » identifies femininity in Slavic languages.

To wear a GORALSKA piece is to adhere to a story, a life philosophy.

The GORALSKA woman shares with others her experiences and her values.

She draws from her roots the faith and the strength to accomplish her projects for others, with others.

The GORALSKA jewel is a bond between a woman’s past and future.

Born in a family of diamond dealers for three generations, Corinne Evens grew up surrounded by rough gemstones with an aura of mystery.

Cradled by the stones’ structural poetry and the jewellery grammar, she yearned to break the jewellery taboos and reinvent a new way of consuming... diamonds!

A responsible vision of jewellery that feels good in a conflict-ridden world.

Corinne Evens keeps on monitoring closely that an ethical process is applied (Kimberley Process to ensure that diamonds are from legal sources) and especially that stones and raw materials are sourced in a professional way.

Two collections were created by Corrine Evens: The exceptional jewels collection inspired by the olive tree symbolizes continuity ... extended to a collection of fine jewelry including some unique and dedicated pieces.

The Evens Group For three generations, the EVENS FAMILY has excelled in the diamond and silverware business.

In 1956, GEORGES EVENS founded the Evens Group. At the time, he was considered as one of the world’s most influential and renowned diamond dealers.

Today, his daughter CORINNE EVENS is at the head of the family group. Having graduated with a master in mathematics, CORINNE EVENS has a passion for art and fine jewelry and also draws the GORALSKA jewelry, produces documentaries and art videos.

For the past 50 years, the group has diversified in real estate and private equity and found a balance between economic growth and philanthropic activities.

Very committed, CORINNE EVENS participated in 1990 alongside her family in the creation of the EVENS FOUNDATION, of which she is now the honorary president.

The foundation accompanies projects aimed at promoting a harmonious cohabitation between citizens and states in a peaceful Europe respectful of diversity. By giving awards every two years, the foundation develops the most beautiful initiatives in favor of peace education, media literacy, and the emancipation and empowerm e n t o f c i v i l s o c i e t y. (www.evensfoundation.be).

In 2011, CORINNE EVENS created her own jewelry brand GORALSKA, which embodies values of courage, sharing, ambition, and hope.

The "street jewellery" collection inspired by the exceptional jewels collections like Duality, Imprint, Coincidence and Flame was created to light women’s everyday life.

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TI FFANY & CO.

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TI FFANY CT60

Inspired by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany —inventor of the New York Minute—and the city where he first opened his doors to a new world of style, the Tiffany CT60 collection celebrates the master builders who boldly imagined the city’s future.

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The Tiffany CT60 collection launches with respect for a great watchmaking tradition.

It also recognizes the value of time and the groundbreaking ideas that come to life in moments of sheer brilliance.

Tiffany & Co. introduces a new watch for this moment in time: The Tiffany CT60, inspired by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany—inventor of the New York Minute—and the city where he first opened his doors to a new world of style.

This dynamic collection reflects the cadence of modern life from the streets of New York to every pulsating point on the globe. The timepieces are infused with the energy and ambition summed up in the famous phrase—New York Minute—60 seconds of pure possibility. Mr. Tiffany introduced its greatest symbol in 1853, when he unveiled the nine-foot Atlas clock above his store—the same clock that today stands above the entrance of the company’s Fifth Avenue flagship. People relied on this unique public clock to keep their lives running on time. They came to rely on such precision at home, too. With the adoption of standard time in 1883, Tiffany & Co. began a weekly regulation of over 400 clocks owned by its customers. Mr. Tiffany was now a premier jeweler and watchmaker, whose Atlas clock embodied not just a reputation for excellence, but also New York’s history of innovation.

This celebrated legacy and centuries of Swiss watchmaking expertise unite in the Tiffany CT60. Inspired by a Tiffany & Co. gold watch given to U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1945, the collection represents a seamless transition from historic to modern Tiffany design.

These masterworks are powered by movements of the finest Swiss pedigree. Timehonored techniques such as Côtes de Genève, Colimaçon and Perlage finishing result in extraordinary timepieces. The watches for men and women include a chronograph in stainless steel with self-winding mechanical movement, blue soleil finishing and silver poudré numerals. An 18 karat rose gold calendar watch with a 42-hour power reserve, shock-absorption system and sapphire crystal display back is created in a limited edition of 60, each numbered on the case back. Other timepieces include a 3-hand timepiece in 18 karat rose gold with gold poudré numerals and diamond bezel.

The Tiffany CT60 collection launches with respect for a great watchmaking tradition. It also recognizes the value of time and the groundbreaking ideas that come to life in moments of sheer brilliance.

The collection changes pace with the Tiffany East West. The timepiece literally turns the rules of watchmaking on its side, with a rectangular shape crisply defined in stainless steel and a black, white or blue dial.

THE TIMES OF TIFFANY Tiffany’s heritage as a premier watchmaker can be traced through a timeline of brilliant innovations that extends from its founding in New York City in 1837 to the present, with the new Tiffany CT60 collection, named for founder Charles Lewis Tiffany, who invented the New York Minute. The now-famous phrase originated with the unveiling of the ninefoot Atlas clock above his store at 550 Broadway in 1853. Generations of New Yorkers embraced it as their personal timekeeper and a symbol of the city’s energy and innovation. Today the clock graces the entrance of the company’s Fifth Avenue flagship store.

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Artistry and Innovation Tiffany & Co. began selling watches in 1847. Seven years later, Mr. Tiffany and Messrs. Patek and Philippe signed an agreement making Tiffany & Co. the first retailer in America to carry Patek Philippe watches. In 1874, Tiffany built a fourstory, state-of-the-art manufacture at Geneva’s Place Cornavin. Here, Tiffany met the increasing demand for gold pocket watches with advanced movements that chimed the hour and quarter-hour; diamond-encrusted lapel watches and timepieces embellished with pastoral scenes in enamel, and mythic figures, floral motifs and fine scrolls engraved in gold.

Tiffany pioneered a number of important watchmaking innovations. The Tiffany Timer, an early stopwatch introduced in 1868 was used for engineering and scientific purposes, as well as sporting events. In addition, the company received patents for advances in watch movements and hand settings. Renowned Tiffany gemologist George Kunz patented a luminescent green paint for numerals and hands.

By the 1880s, Mr. Tiffany had become a world-renowned jeweler and watchmaker with a reputation for the finest craftsmanship and commitment to customer service. One aspect of that service was the weekly regulation of over 400 clocks in the homes of Tiffany customers, which began with the adoption of standard time in 1883.

Leading the World The Tiffany Archives showcases masterpieces from Tiffany’s gold-medal exhibits at World’s fairs spanning two centuries.

At the 1876 Philadelphia World’s Fair, Tiffany was honored for its jeweled watches. A centerpiece of its winning exhibit at the 1889 Paris World’s Fair was the American Wild Rose Lapel watch, a diamond and enamel creation by chief designer Paulding Farnham. Tiffany also received medals for watchcases and astronomical clocks at the 1893 Chicago Fair.

erica® watch reflects the gleaming forms and metallic surfaces of the 1930s American industrial design movement. An icon of style, the Atlas® watch was introduced in 1983 as a tribute to Tiffany’s great public clock. The watch’s three- dimensional, diamond-cut Roman numerals generate a sensuous play of light.

The Best of Time Atlas® represents a seamless transition from historic to modern Tiffany design. The watch reigns in real time, along with new additions to Tiffany’s watchmaking legacy, including diamond cocktail watches ablaze with glamour and the new Tiffany CT60. Powered by hand- assembled Swiss movements, the collection captures the pulse of New York in the 21st century. The timepieces’ pure lines and charismatic aesthetic are based on a gold Tiffany watch given to U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt, one of many American presidents who purchased or received Tiffany watches. The inscription on the case back reads, “Franklin Delano Roosevelt, with loyalty, respect and affection.” Roosevelt wore the watch to the historic Yalta Conference in 1945.

The Tiffany CT60 collection celebrates the master builders who boldly imagined the city’s future. Charles Lewis Tiffany was one of them. A man of skill and daring, he richly demonstrated that every second of a New York Minute holds the promise of greatness.

The Tiffany CT60 collection starts at $4,250 and Tiffany East West starts at $3,500 both available at Tiffany & Co. locations worldwide.

For more information, please visit Tiffany.com

Tiffany’s exhibit at the 1939 New York World’s Fair featured an astonishing array of elegant diamond and platinum cocktail watches, as well as timepieces in the striking “Cocktail Style” such as the Trapezoid wristwatch with tinted gold, geometric styling and ruby highlights. A Tiffany purse watch from the period influenced the Tiffany East West timepiece, introduced in 2015. The wristwatch’s crisp, rectangular lines are chic and of the moment.

Two watches introduced in the 20th century were inspired by the country and city where Tiffany was founded. The Stream-

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Charles Lewis Tiffany Founder of Tiffany & Co. and Inspiration for the New Tiffany CT60 Watch Collection Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of New York City’s first and greatest jeweler, made every moment count in a life of risk and reward. His ambition and daring exemplified that famous phrase—the New York Minute—and the energy and innovative spirit it represents. The Atlas clock he installed above his store and that today presides over the Fifth Avenue flagship is a lasting tribute to his powerful vision as a jeweler and watchmaker.

His ambition was apparent from a young age, when he borrowed $1,000 from his father and opened his first store in 1837 on Lower Broadway. Though the city was in the throes of a financial crisis, the 25-year-old Tiffany prospered as customers vied for the latest French accessories and such rarities as bronze curiosities from ancient India and Chinese porcelains, which he purchased from ship captains at ports in New York and Boston. Within a few years he had introduced the first important diamonds to the U.S., had begun selling fine clocks and watches and, by the 1860s, he was the most famous purveyor of diamonds in the country.

“Good design is good business,” he often said, and so was inspired thinking, as he proved in 1858, when he bought 20 miles of extra cable used to lay the Atlantic telegraph cable.

Tiffany created mementos with four-inch cable lengths finished with brass, as well as paperweights, watch charms, canes and umbrella handles. On the day these goods went on sale, police were called to control the crowds clamoring for a piece of history.

parks throughout the city. He was also an original trustee of The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the American Museum of Natural History. As prominent members of New York’s social elite, the Tiffanys danced at Mrs. Astor’s legendary balls and summered in Newport, Rhode Island.

Newspapers were effusive in their praise of Charles Tiffany.

To Harper’s Weekly (1891), he was a merchant without peer, “the active head of the greatest jewelry and high-art establishment in existence . . .”

When he died in 1902, at the age of 90, businesses closed in his honor and The Financial Record eulogized him as one of the “great public figures and most striking personalities of the age.”

Tiffany & Co. operates jewelry stores and manufactures products through its subsidiary corporations. Its principal subsidiary is Tiffany and Company. The Company operates TIFFANY & CO. retail stores in the Americas, Asia-Pacific, Japan and Europe, as well as in the United Arab Emirates and Russia. It also engages in direct selling through Internet, catalog and business gift operations.

For more information, please visit Tiffany.com

He soon expanded to London and Paris, where he bought gems of noble provenance for America’s growing wealthy class. The frenzy for royal jewels among New York’s elite peaked in 1887 with his purchase of about one-third of the French Crown Jewels. Among the ready customers were Mrs. Joseph Pulitzer and New York social queen Caroline Astor, who acquired the Empress Eugénie’s diamond rivières and corsage ornaments. Tiffany followed this triumph with spectacular jewelry displays at the historic Paris world’s fairs, where he won gold medals and became jeweler to Europe’s royal houses.

By the turn of the 20th century, Tiffany & Co. was the world’s premier jeweler, whose founder was known for good works as much as “good business.” A civic leader, he helped to finance the construction of the Statue of Liberty and public

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ADDRESS BOOK

ADDRESS BOOK

BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com

MATHON www.mathon-paris.com

CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com

NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr

CASPITA www.caspita.ch

OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com

WALLACE CHAN www.wallace-chan.com

ORNELLA IANNUZZI www.ornella-iannuzzi.com

ENTICE www.entice.in

PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com

FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com

PICCHIOTTI http://www.picchiotti.it

GORALSKA JOAILLERIE www.goralska.com

QEELIN www.qeelin.com

GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com

ROBERTO COIN www.robertocoin.com

GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com

RICARDO BASTA www.ricardobasta.com

ILIAS LALAOUNIS www.iliaslalaounis.eu

SHAWISH www.shawish.ch

JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com

SYLVIE CORBELIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com

LE VIAN www.levian.com

TIFFANY & CO. www.tiffany.com

LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com

ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com

MAGERIT www.mageritjoyas.com

ZAFFIRO www.zaffirojewelry.com

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com

ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr

MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank all who have contributed to the compilation of this issue. It would not have been accomplished without their significant contribution. The successful publication that owes a great deal to the professionals in the creative industry who have given us precious insights and feedbacks. And to the many others whose names are not credited but have made specific input in this issue, we thank you for your continuous support.

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#Committed to Heritage and Creativity

Stand up for their promotion Stand up for their protection

United Nations Educational, ScientiďŹ c and Cultural Organization A campaign led with the support of the French customs

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