The Borough Market Guide to the Coronation

THE BOROUGH MARKET GUIDE TO The coronation

From trifle to quiche to coronation chicken, the ultimate guide to coronation cooking

A welcome cuppa at Maria’s Market Cafe, Borough Market, 2013

THE BOROUGH MARKET GUIDE TO The coronation

Borough Market has been around for many a coronation. A number somewhere in the thirties or forties, depending on exactly when you start counting, plus the investiture of a couple of Cromwells after that messy little business with Charles I’s beheading. Fair to say, then, we’ve had plenty of practice.

For the coronation of Charles III, our traders will be out in force on Saturday 6th and Sunday 7th May, before closing for the day on the bank holiday Monday. Pay them a visit to buy all the high-quality ingredients you need for a street party, celebratory barbecue or family dinner.

To add to the occasion, the amazing Saskia will be in the Market Hall on the Saturday, 11am – 2pm, offering a free facepainting service, which takes just a matter of minutes. Her most popular designs include cherries, ice creams and other foods, and she’ll also be rolling out some special royal-themed looks.

In these pages, you’ll find a guide to marking the coronation in ways that chime with the philosophy and preferences of our new foodloving King, plus all the sharing-food recipes you need for a suitably regal gathering.

Fit for a king

How to mark the coronation at Borough Market

Crowning glory

The story of coronation chicken

A trifling matter

The story of trifle

Crab & asparagus tart

Jenny Chandler

Ringan bhartha

Urvesh Parvais

Chorizo & pear puff pastry roll

Angela Clutton

Veal carpaccio with pecorino

& salted grissini

Ursula Ferrigno

Quiche Lorraine

Angela Clutton

Carrot patch tray bake

Juliet Sear

Cucumber & gin sorbet

Kathy Slack

A royal quiz

Win Borough Market goodies

BOROUGH MARKET ONLINE

Borough Market Online offers a wide selection of our traders’ produce, delivered direct to London addresses and, where available, by post to the rest of the UK.

goodsixty.co.uk/borough-market

The royal couple at Tea2You, 2013

Below: A chat at Food & Forest, 2017

/ ADRIAN POPE

FIT FOR A KING

How to mark the coronation at Borough Market

Support small, sustainable food producers. One of the hardest things about being the British monarch must be how tight-lipped you’re expected to remain on any topic deemed even vaguely political. And it must be particularly difficult if you have as many impassioned opinions as King Charles III.

Thankfully for him – and us – his time as Prince of Wales afforded Charles the opportunity to enjoy several decades as an outspoken participant in the public forum before the protocols of monarchy kicked in. Through his speeches, articles, interviews and letters to ministers, we know a lot about his thoughts and passions, which cover a wide range of topics – architecture, conservation, education, medicine. And one of the subjects he’s had most to say about is sustainable food production.

Take this statement from 2021: “To me, it is essential that the contribution of the smallscale family farmer is properly recognised – they must be a key part in any fair, inclusive, equitable and just transition to a sustainable

future. To do this, we must ensure that Britain’s family farmers have the tools and the confidence to meet the rapid transition to regenerative farming systems that our planet demands.” That could very easily be a direct quote from the Borough Market Food Policy.

Or this from 2019. We should, he said, be celebrating “products that tell a really good story, emphasise the importance of native breeds, support family farms and put soil health and fertility at the centre of the entire process”. It’s a description that fits so much of what Borough Market sells, from the unpasteurised Sussex milk of Hook & Son, to the colourful chard of Ted’s Veg, to the cured meats sourced from small Italian producers by The Parma Ham & Mozzarella Stand.

Chat to a trader. It’s because of this sense of alignment with the values of Borough’s traders that the new King and Queen Consort have been regular visitors to the Market. They were our guests of honour in November 2005, marking the 250th anniversary of Borough Market’s current incarnation. They returned in February 2013

when the magnificent new Three Crown Square hall was re-opened after years of building work on the overhead viaduct. They were here again in December 2017 to show their support in the aftermath of the terror attack. On each occasion they spent several hours talking, shaking hands and tasting eagerly presented samples. Nothing about the royal couple’s engagement with the traders, their stories and their products felt cursory or staged. Here, Charles is just a food obsessive, chatting to his fellow food obsessives.

Examine some architecture. The King loves architecture. Or at least some architecture: the historic type. Borough Market is full of plenty of that: a mélange of eras and styles from the past two centuries or so. There’s the beautifully ornate Floral Hall portico, which was built beside Covent Garden market in the 1850s and transposed to Borough less than 20 years ago but looks as though it’s been here forever. There are the striking Art Deco gates on the high street, which were first opened in 1933. There are even nine bollards and a lamp post in

the Green Market, all of which have a Grade II listing from Historic England. Come for the incredible food, stay for the bollards.

Enjoy a taste of the West Country. “I have put my heart and soul into Highgrove,” the King has said of Duchy Home Farm, his organic farm on the Highgrove estate. “All the things I have tried to do in this small corner of Gloucestershire have been the physical expression of a personal philosophy.” As a West Country farmer, he’s always been active in promoting the region’s culinary gems. Borough Market is home to many of these: the cured meats of Capreolus, the cheeses of Bath Soft Cheese and Trethowan Brothers, the seafood and venison of Shellseekers Fish & Game, and the meat and other local produce sold at Wild Beef.

Volunteer for Plan Zheroes. One of the major themes of the coronation is a drive to encourage people to volunteer in their communities. If you’d like to make a difference, we have a great option. Twice a week, the Plan Zheroes organisation collects surplus food from our traders.

Left to right: the Floral Hall portico; Plan Zheroes volunteers; White Park cattle at Northfield Farm; Doreen of De La Grenade

This food, no longer perfect but still good to eat, is given to more than 20 charities to help feed vulnerable people across London. Plan Zheroes relies on volunteers. If you’d like to help combat food waste while supporting your fellow Londoners, sign up now.

Buy some rare breed meat. When you read through his long list of food-related patronages, it’s clear that one of the King’s abiding passions is rare breed farm animals: the traditional, slow-growing, regionally distinctive breeds that were almost wiped out during the 20th century rush to engineer bigger, meatier, blandertasting animals that reach maturity much more quickly. As well as being patron of the Rare Breed Survival Trust, he lends his support to just about every breeders’ association working to sustain our native livestock. Borough Market is a haven for these delicious traditional meats. Among many others, you’ll find Welsh Black and Devon cattle at Wild Beef, White Park cattle and Hampshire Down sheep at Northfield Farm, and Lincoln Red cattle and Tamworth pigs at Ginger Pig.

Explore the flavours of the Commonwealth. Across much of the Commonwealth, important discussions are currently taking place about the inseparable ties between monarchy and colonialism and whether to follow the likes of Barbados and Trinidad in embracing a republican future. But for now at least, King Charles is head of state of 15 countries spanning the globe. As a result, this year’s coronation is an event whose significance reaches far beyond these shores. Borough Market has two stalls that bring some of the flavours of the Commonwealth to London. Doreen at De La Grenade imports beautiful jams, jellies and pepper sauces from Grenada, a Caribbean island famous for its nutmeg and mace, while the sauces, seasonings, chutneys and dressings at Dawn Smith’s Pimento Hill stand provide a vivid taste of Jamaica.

Pick up a tea towel. At times of great ceremonial importance, what is it that we do as a nation? We buy commemorative tea towels. Head to the Borough Market Store for a classic example of the genre.

CROWNING GLORY

The story of coronation chicken

Mark Riddaway

When Edward VII came to the throne in 1902, a Lincolnshire farmer decided to honour the new monarch by giving his name to a new breed of potato – the King Edward – which went on to become one of the great staples of British cookery, a source of some of the very best roasties you’ll ever eat. Half a century later, his great-granddaughter Queen Elizabeth II had a similarly indirect influence upon British cuisine when her coronation inspired the creation of one of the nation’s most misunderstood sandwich fillings: coronation chicken.

That such an auspicious occasion should result in so seemingly prosaic a dish was, in a way, entirely fitting. The Queen’s coronation ceremony took place on 2nd June 1953, and despite being a triumphant affair, the events of that day carried a distinct air of post-war austerity. The official banquet at Buckingham Palace involved a restrained four-course meal – a starter of chicken consommé, a main course of filet de boeuf mascotte (fillet of beef with artichokes, cocotte potatoes and truffle), a salad, and a simple dessert of mango ice cream.

To put this in context, at James II’s coronation in 1685 the first course alone consisted of 46 different dishes, brought into Westminster

Hall by a procession of 73 people, including three on horseback. At Henry VI’s coronation in 1429, the menu included boars’ heads “in castles armed with gold”, a roasted peacock that had been painstakingly stuffed back into its own skin and feathers, a fritter “like the sun”, and a jelly illustrated with “the writing and musical notation of Te Deum Laudamus”. Henry himself was still a month short of his eighth birthday and would probably have been perfectly happy with a nice cake.

Coronation chicken was invented not for the main banquet, as is often stated, but for a lunchtime function attended by several hundred foreign dignitaries who were in London for the celebrations. The dish tends to be attributed to the celebrity florist, interior designer and general domestic goddess Constance Spry, who was responsible for the flower arrangements at the coronation, and its recipe was published for the first time in 1956 in The Constance Spry Cookery Book – a vast, 1,000-plus-page masterpiece of 1950s home economics. In reality, coronation chicken (like most of the dishes in Spry’s book) was created by the florist’s friend and close collaborator Rosemary Hume. Hume was a respected chef who had founded the L’Ecole du Petit Cordon Bleu cookery school

in Victoria in 1933. In 1946 Hume and Spry joined forces to open a domestic science school in Winkfield Place, Berkshire, and when the college’s students were asked to cater for the coronation lunch, Hume set about inventing a new dish for them to serve.

These days, we expect coronation chicken to be a vivid yellow gloop, sweet with sultanas and lumps of fruit and spicy with curry sauce. But Hume’s original dish, as is to be expected from a woman who trained in Paris under the classical culinary master Henri-Paul Pellaprat, was very different to the oozing sandwich filling that would come to take its name. This was a subtle, creamy concoction, delicate in flavour and created with not a single sultana in sight. It was designed to be served with a rice salad rather than splodged between slices of bread.

Chicken

Wyndham House Poultry

Tomato puree

Oliveology

Mayonnaise

Le Marché du Quartier

Most of what you need to recreate Hume’s version can be bought at Borough Market. It all begins with the chicken, of course, which back in the 1950s was still considered a luxury meat, largely reserved for the tables of the wealthy. You’ll be able to buy suitably regal, slow-growing breeds at any of the Market’s butchers, all of them packed with the deep flavours such birds were valued for in the days before battery cages, high-protein feeds and intensive drug regimes turned chicken into a cheap, bland and ethically questionable staple.

Exactly what the Queen thought of coronation chicken was not a matter of public record. One thing is certain, though: it’s an easier dish to produce at home than re-stuffed peacock.

Mark Riddaway is the author of Borough Market: Edible Histories (Hodder & Stoughton)

PROPER CORONATION CHICKEN

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

For the chicken:

1 large chicken

100ml white wine

1 carrot, chopped

1 bouquet garni

4 black peppercorns

For the sauce:

1 onion, finely chopped

1 tbsp curry powder

1 tsp tomato puree

125ml red wine

1 bay leaf

1 tsp sugar

1 lemon

2 tbsp apricot puree or jam

400ml mayonnaise

3 tbsp cream, lightly whipped

Method

Place the whole chicken in a large pot, pour in the wine and enough water to cover the birds. Add the carrot, bouquet garni, peppercorns and a few pinches of salt, then gently poach for 50 mins, making sure that the liquid doesn’t boil too rapidly. If the liquid reduces below the top of the chicken, top up with more water.

Remove the pan from the heat but leave the chicken in its cooking liquor until cool enough to handle. Drain, discard the aromatics, but keep all that flavoursome stock for future use. Joint the chicken. Discard the skin, remove the meat from the bones and cut into bitesized chunks.

To make the sauce, gently fry the chopped onion in 1 tbsp olive oil until soft and translucent. Add the curry powder and fry for 3 mins more. Add the tomato puree, wine and bay leaf, plus 125ml water. Add the sugar, a squeeze of lemon and a touch of seasoning. Simmer for 10 mins to reduce the sauce. Strain, then leave to cool.

Add the mayonnaise and apricot puree or jam to the sauce, season again with salt and black pepper, then finish with the lightly whipped cream. Generously coat the chicken with the sauce, but make sure it’s not too sloppy –don’t just chuck all the sauce in at once. If there’s a little left over, you can always use it to pep up a sandwich.

Garnish with lemon slices and serve with a herby rice salad.

A TRIFLING MATTER

The story of trifle Angela Clutton

Perhaps one of the new King’s first orders of business needs to be a proclamation on trifle, that most fundamentally British of desserts. With a quick wave of his royal pen King Charles III could settle a matter of great culinary and cultural importance. One that has troubled our nation’s dessertlovers for centuries, and (speaking entirely personally) caused no end of family arguments: whether a trifle should –or should not – contain jelly.

It is one of the more contentious elements of a dessert that is generally accepted as being basically sponge that is able to soak up booze and fruit jam or juices, plus custard, plus whipped cream. Beyond that, the question of jelly always lurking.

Surely a good place to look for answers would be with the cook responsible for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation chicken. The Constance Spry Cookbook does indeed have a trifle recipe… without jelly. The rest of it is all present and correct, but Constance opts – as many do – to just spread her sponge with jam rather than suspend whole pieces of fruit in jelly. Queen Delia Smith’s trifle is also jelly-less. This is suddenly starting to feel definitive. Until you realise Delia’s ‘traditional

trifle’ in The Complete Cookery Course calls for the inclusion of frozen raspberries and thin slices of banana. Hmmm….

Go back closer to the origins of trifle and the components of the modern dish are already there. Hannah Glasse is usually credited with the first written recipe for a trifle. In her late-18th century book The Compleat Confectioner there is her ‘grand trifle’. It calls for calves’ foot jelly, naples biscuits (very similar to modern trifle sponges or boudoir biscuits) dipped in sack (aka sherry), with rich cream, currant and raspberry jam / jelly, and all that then topped off with whipped cream infused with lemon. Hannah calls that trifle “fit to go the King’s table”. In her case George III.

There’s no custard there, which is interesting. And I wonder if that’s because before it was feasible to chill a just-made custard it would have spoiled the set of the fruit or jelly. Or maybe the unpasteurised cream of those times was so rich and lush it didn’t need amping up. Hannah’s earlier trifle-ish recipes, and many since, called for a syllabub top rather than whipped cream. A syllabub basically meaning cream that is whipped with sherry, lemon and sugar.

Shop

Sherry Borough Wines

Savoiardi biscuits

Gastronomica

Cherry jam

Turkish Deli

As delicious as syllabub certainly is, it is also prone to splitting after being whipped and left. Syllabubs became more creamheavy over time to minimise that risk, until eventually the typical trifle topping became whipped cream only.

The occasional modern trifle has looked back to its roots and decided to revive the syllabub finish as chefs and food writers, home cooks and sweet-toothed eaters alike find themselves torn between tradition and trends. There are ones that use ginger cakes as the bed for the booze, or leftover Christmas pudding. Ones with chocolate custard. Another queen, Mary Berry, puts mascarpone in with her custard layers making that a nod in the direction of tiramisu.

Adam Handling, who has conjured up the official trifle for King Charles III’s coronation

celebrations, asks us to make a Yorkshire parkin for the base, but misses out the booze completely. Trifle treason, surely. While I don’t pretend to know an awful lot about our modern monarchy, I do recall mention of them being partial to the occasional tipple. There is jelly in there, though.

The trifle’s very adaptability is almost certainly part of what lies behind our enduring love of them for 250 years and counting. (That and them being seriously delicious and almost impossible to get wrong.) There are few desserts as capable as trifles when it comes to capturing the nation’s mood across different eras, different generations – and different monarchs.

Angela Clutton is the author of Borough Market: The Knowledge (Hodder & Stoughton)

SHERRY CHERRY TRIFLE

Serves 6-8

The King’s coronation times with the very start of British cherry season, making this a gloriously seasonal trifle. The fruit is cooked with cherry jam to give just enough of a jelly effect to please those who like a jellied trifle. Add sponge soaked with the sweet nuttiness of amontillado sherry, lashings of rich custard and cream, and this trifle is definitely fit for a king. It’s incredibly quick to prepare, particularly if you make the custard ahead of time (or just buy some pre-made custard!). Best eaten the day you make it.

Ingredients

For the custard:

450ml whole milk

150ml double cream

1 vanilla pod

6 egg yolks

60g caster sugar

For the trifle:

650g cherries (approx 500g pitted weight), plus a few extra for garnish, preferably with stalks

1 jar of cherry (or black cherry) jam, approx 340g

600ml double or whipping cream

100ml amontillado sherry

200g savoiardi biscuits

600ml vanilla custard (see above)

75g dark chocolate

Equipment:

A straight-sided glass trifle dish, 2.5 litre capacity

Method

If you’re making your own custard for the trifle, do that first. Pour the milk and cream into a medium saucepan. Split the vanilla pod in half lengthways, scrape out its seeds, and add the seeds and pod to the milk. Bring to a low simmer, then turn off the heat and set aside for 5 mins to infuse.

Whisk together the egg yolks and caster sugar in a bowl. Discard the vanilla pod, then pour a little of the warm milk and cream into the egg yolk mix and whisk. Gradually add the rest, whisking continuously, then pour it all into a clean pan. Set over a gentle heat and stir constantly for 8-10 mins, taking care not to let the custard simmer, until it thickens and has the consistency of double cream – it will thicken more as it cools down. Set aside to cool before using in the trifle.

Remove the stones from the cherries and put the fruit into a medium saucepan along with the jam and 25ml water. Gently cook for a few minutes, stirring, to soften the cherries. Take the pan off the heat and set aside to cool. Whip the cream in a large mixing bowl.

Pour the sherry into a shallow bowl. Dip a third of the boudoir biscuits into the sherry, then use to line the base of the dish. Spoon over a third of the cherries, then a third of the custard, then a third of the whipped cream. Repeat these layers twice more. Put the trifle into the fridge for a couple of hours.

Chop or grate the chocolate. Scatter over the trifle before serving, along with the remaining cherries.

CRAB & ASPARAGUS TART Jenny Chandler

Serves 4

Crab and asparagus complement each other superbly, the sweetness of the shellfish offsetting the fresh nuttiness of the spears – the two flavours seem to sing a duet of sunshine and longer days. This recipe works well with the sweet, delicate ‘sprue’ – the earliest asparagus that’s thinned from the beds. It’s no thicker than a pencil but still packed with flavour. Later in the season, thicker asparagus will work well too.

Ingredients

For the pastry:

180g plain flour

90g very cold butter, cut into small dice

1 egg yolk mixed with 2 tbsp water (reserve the white for sealing the pastry)

For the filling:

300g tender asparagus, woody ends removed

2 eggs

1 egg yolk

200g fresh crab meat (half white, half brown)

250ml double cream

Equipment:

36cm x 12cm rectangular or 30cm round, loose-bottomed metal tart tin

Method

Heat the oven to 200C. First, make the pastry. Put the flour into a large bowl with a pinch of salt, then add the diced butter. Take a table knife or pastry scraper and continue to cut the butter into smaller pieces in the flour.

Now rub the butter into the flour using your fingertips, until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs, then add the egg yolk and water.

Use the knife or pastry scraper to cut in the liquid and then pull the mix together with your hands, trying not to overwork it, until you have a ball of pastry. Alternatively, fling the flour, salt and butter into a food processor and whizz until you have crumbs. Add the liquid and pulse the mixture until it comes together. Wrap the pastry and chill in the fridge for about 10 mins, before rolling out to fit your tin. Chill again for at least 30 mins.

Blind bake the pastry: cover it with greaseproof paper, fill it with baking beans or dried pulses and place in the oven for about 15 mins or until the pastry is almost ready. Remove the paper and beans, prick the pastry with a fork and place back in the oven for another 5-10 mins, until really dry and crisp. Brush with a little beaten egg white and bake for an extra 2 mins. This may seem a rigmarole, but soggy pastry can be the ruination of a perfect tart.

Turn the oven down to 180C. Cut the asparagus spears to fit the tart. Plunge into boiling water for about 1 min if pencil-thin and just 2-3 mins for finger-thick spears. Drain and refresh in a bowl of cold water.

Beat the eggs and yolk with a fork, stir in the cream and white crabmeat and season with a little salt and pepper. Once the tart shell is ready, spread a layer of the brown crab meat over the base (this is where most of the crab favour is) and then pour over the crab custard. Arrange the asparagus on top of the tart and carefully place in the oven for 20-25 mins, until the filling is set and just wobbly.

Allow to sit for about 15 mins before removing the tin and serving warm with a simple salad and perhaps some new potatoes.

Asparagus

Ted’s Veg

Crab

Shellseekers Fish & Game

Cream

Hook & Son

RINGAN BHARTHA Urvesh

Parvais

Serves 8

This is a perfect vegan sharing dish for a warm spring day.

Ingredients

3 medium aubergines

2 x 2cm lengths of cinnamon

1 black cardamom pod, slightly split

1 green cardamom pod, slightly split

½ star anise

4 cloves

½ medium onion, finely diced

3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

6g fresh ginger, finely chopped

20-25g hot green chilli, finely chopped

1 tsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground cumin

1 tsp turmeric

3½ tsp tomato puree

2 tbsp coriander leaves

1½ tsp garam masala

2 tsp lemon juice

Method

Use a naked flame, barbecue or hot grill to blister the skin of the aubergines. Using tongs, keep each vegetable turning. The skin will char, giving a lovely smoky flavour, but don’t overdo it: the flesh should still have some firmness to it when you’re finished.

Place the charred aubergines in a bowl until cool enough to peel. Do not allow to cool completely, as the skin is easier to peel while still warm.

Chop the aubergine flesh into 5-8mm dice and set aside. Reserve any of the juices released while peeling and chopping. Next, temper the spices. Make sure you have

all your spices measured out and close to hand, as the high heat means there’s a risk of burning the oil and the spices. Place a thickbottomed pan over a medium-high flame, then pour in 4 tbsp sunflower oil and continue to heat. To tell if the oil is hot enough, I drop in a mustard seed – if it pops immediately, the oil is ready.

Add the cinnamon, black and green cardamom, star anise and cloves. The cloves may pop, so keep the pan lid to hand – you’ll need to use it as a shield! The cloves should swell up and float on the surface, indicating the spices are ready, but don’t worry if this doesn’t happen – just make sure you don’t let the spices turn black.

Now add your onions – they will quickly cool the oil, ensuring the spices don’t burn. Turn down the heat to medium-low and simmer until the onions have browned.

Add the garlic, ginger and nearly all the chopped chilli; the strength of chillies can vary, so it’s best to keep some aside and add more if you need it later. Allow this to cook for a couple of mins, add the ground coriander, cumin, turmeric and 1 tsp salt, then simmer until the aroma of the spices is released.

Add the aubergine flesh, tomato puree, chopped coriander and half the garam masala. Mix thoroughly and cook on a low heat for 7-8 mins, until the heat has permeated through the aubergine and allowed the flavours to intermingle.

Have a taste. If it needs more bite, add the rest of the garam masala and chilli a little at a time until you are happy with the balance of flavours. Add the lemon juice just before serving. Serve a with a pile of thepla flatbreads, or similar.

Aubergines

Turnips

Fresh ginger

Raya

Spices

Spice Mountain

CHORIZO & PEAR PUFF PASTRY ROLL Angela

Clutton

Makes 8 portions

Two Market stalwarts are the inspiration behind this recipe: the respective glories of the Ginger Pig sausage roll and the chorizo in a ciabatta roll at Brindisa. Putting them together as chorizo in pastry is really amping up the richness factor. Pears do a great job of balancing that out. Without them I think this could all be a bit too much. With them – and a little kick of mustard seeds – it is lusciously delicious. The pears for this need to be nicely ripe. This makes one long roll that then gets cut into slices after baking.

Ingredients

2 pears

1 tbsp black mustard seeds

600g cooking chorizo sausages, skins removed 320g pack of ready-rolled all-butter puff

pastry sheet

Plain flour, for dusting

2 egg yolks

Method

Peel, core and roughly chop one of the pears. Put the chopped pear in a small saucepan with the mustard seeds and a splash of water and cook over a medium heat, uncovered, for 10 mins until the pear is soft. Use a potato masher to crush it into a puree. Set aside to cool.

Put the chorizo meat into a mixing bowl and use your hands to break it up. Peel and core the other pear, finely dice its flesh and mix into the chorizo. When the pear puree is cool, mix that in too. Shape the chorizo mixture into a sausage about 30cm long, wrap firmly, and chill for 20 mins to firm up.

Meanwhile, line a large baking tray with baking paper. Dust it lightly with flour and

unfurl the puff pastry sheet onto it. Put into the fridge.

Beat the egg yolks with 2 tbsp water to make your egg wash.

Take the pastry tray from the fridge. Unwrap the chorizo onto the pastry, positioning it so that it is parallel with, and about 3cm in from, one of the long edges. Working as quickly as you can, lightly brush one long edge of the pastry with the egg wash, then carefully lift that edge over the chorizo to meet the pastry at the other side. Use the paper to help you. Press the edges together firmly and use your hands to shape the pastry and the sausage into a firm roll. Dust a fork with flour and press it along the length of the seam to seal and make indents.

Preheat the oven to 210C.

Lightly brush the pastry with more of the egg wash and chill for 10 mins. Then give it another brush with egg wash and lightly score the top of the roll with a sharp knife. Chill again for 10 mins. Trim the long edge to neaten it, give your chorizo roll one last brush with egg wash, and put into the oven for 30-35 mins. It’s ready when a probe thermometer inserted into the middle of the roll reads 75C or above – if you don’t have a thermometer, insert a metal skewer and test that it’s very hot to the touch when you remove it.

Remove the chorizo roll from the oven and transfer onto a wire rack to cool for 10 mins before trimming the ends and cutting to serve. It’s best enjoyed still warm from the oven, but is good at room temperature too.

Recipe from Borough Market: The Knowledge with Angela Clutton (Hodder & Stoughton 2022)

Chorizo Brindisa

Pears

Stark’s Fruiterers

Eggs

Northfield Farm

VEAL CARPACCIO WITH PECORINO & SALTED GRISSINI Ursula Ferrigno

Serves 6

Ingredients

400g rose veal fillet, trimmed

Handful of flat leaf parsley

3 radishes, thinly sliced on a mandolin

30g pecorino, shaved with a vegetable peeler

For the salted grissini:

125ml water, body temperature

6g fresh yeast

150g ‘00’ flour

1 tbsp olive oil

3 tsp salt flakes

For the lemon & anchovy dressing:

6 anchovy fillets in olive oil, chopped into little pieces

100ml lightly flavoured extra virgin olive oil

80ml lemon juice

Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

1 tbsp lemon thyme leaves

Method

Start with the grissini. Preheat the oven to 180C. Combine the yeast with 25ml water at body temperature.

In a medium sized bowl, mix the flour and 1 tsp salt. Make a rabbit hole in the flour and add the yeast mixture and olive oil. Add the rest of the water little by little until you have a tacky dough, not too wet and not too dry.

Knead for 5 mins on a lightly floured table. Return to a clean bowl and allow to rise for 20 mins.

Divide the dough into 20 equal pieces. Using the palms of your hand, turn each lump of dough into a thin cylinder by stretching and rolling it on a flour-free work surface (they stretch more easily without flour, as they adhere better to the surface). When around 25cm in length, place onto parchment-lined trays, sprinkle with the remaining salt flakes and bake for 10-12 mins until golden brown. Place on wire racks to cool completely.

Wrap the veal in clingfilm, rolling the ends to form a cylinder. Freeze for around 30 mins, until firm.

In a small bowl, whisk together all the dressing ingredients and season to taste.

Remove the clingfilm and thinly slice the veal with a very sharp knife. Arrange the veal on a serving platter, then scatter with radish slices and parsley leaves. Drizzle with the dressing, grind over a little salt and pepper, scatter with pecorino shavings and serve with the grissini.

Shop

Rose veal

Hook & Son

Pecorino

Bianca Mora

Anchovy fillets

The Tinned Fish Market

QUICHE LORRAINE Angela Clutton

Serves 6-8

The official dish of the coronation is the coronation quiche, flavoured with spinach, broad beans, cheese and tarragon, created by the royal chef Mark Flanagan. Our quiche recipe is a timeless classic: a quiche Lorraine, adapted from a recipe written by the great Patience Gray in 1957, a few years after the last coronation.

Ingredients

300g plain flour, sifted

150g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

1 large egg yolk, beaten

250g smoked bacon rashers

500ml double cream

4 large eggs

Nutmeg

A large knob of butter

Method

Start by making the quiche’s pastry base. Put the flour into a mixing bowl, then use your fingers to rub in the butter until it feels like breadcrumbs. Add the beaten egg yolk and a pinch of salt and bring together into a smooth dough. (You might need to add some cold water, but use as little as you can get away with.) Shape into a disc, wrap and chill for 30 mins.

Grease a 24cm-diameter tin with a little extra butter. Roll out the pastry between two pieces of greaseproof paper until the thickness of a pound coin and large enough for lining your tin. Carefully lift one edge of the pastry over the rolling pin and use that to lift it onto the tin. Treat the pastry gently as you smooth it inside the case. Let the pastry overhang, as it will shrink as it cooks. Chill for 30 mins.

Heat the oven to 180C. Prick the chilled pastry base with a fork in several places. Line with baking paper, fill with baking beans (or rice) and bake for 15 mins. Remove the paper and the beans or rice, then return the tin to the oven for a further 5 mins. Sit the tin on a wire rack to cool but don’t yet trim the pastry edges. This stage can be done a day ahead of time.

To make the filling, heat the oven to 180C. Lightly whisk together the cream and eggs in a jug or mixing bowl. Season and add a few good gratings of nutmeg.

Heat a medium frying pan over a medium heat. Cut the bacon into 2.5cm lengths and lay the slices into the pan to crisp up and render their fat. Use a slotted spoon to lift the bacon out of the fat, then arrange in a layer on the pastry base. Pour over the egg and cream mix, dot with small pieces of butter, then bake for around 30 mins – it’s done when the filling is gloriously golden and bouncy and just about set. Let the quiche cool for 10 mins before serving, leaving time to dress a salad and open the wine. Trim off any untidy edges from the pastry before bringing to the table.

Butter

Hook & Son

Bacon

Ginger Pig

Cream

Neal’s Yard Dairy

CARROT PATCH TRAY BAKE

Juliet Sear

Makes 24 portions

This cake is so delicious and very easy to bake and decorate. The playful use of fresh baby carrots and delicious brittle adds a lovely touch to the creamy frosted top. It’s a real crowd pleaser – plenty to serve up at a large gathering!

Ingredients

For the cake:

400g self-raising flour

2 tsp baking powder

2 tsp ground cinnamon

350g light muscovado sugar

350ml sunflower oil

6 large eggs, lightly beaten

300g grated carrot

250g sultanas

200g walnuts, chopped into small pieces

Grated zest of 2 oranges

For the frosting:

140g butter

1 tsp vanilla bean paste

280g icing sugar

200g cream cheese

To decorate:

A few fresh small carrots with their tops, washed and trimmed

50g nut brittle, crushed

Equipment:

Large tray bake tin, greased and lined with parchment paper

Stand mixer with paddle attachment (or electric beater, or bowl and wooden spoon)

Method

Heat the oven to 200C. Place the flour, cinnamon and baking powder in a bowl and dry whisk through to distribute everything evenly.

Place the muscovado sugar in a large bowl, add the oil and, with a whisk, mix well to break down any lumps. Add the eggs and whisk through to combine. Add the grated carrot, sultanas, orange zest and nuts to the mix and stir well. Add the flour and cinnamon mix and gently fold through until fully combined.

Pour into the lined tin and bake for 35-45 mins until cooked through, well risen and golden. Test in the centre with a skewer to make sure it’s completely cooked – the skewer should come out clean.

Leave to cool in the tin for 10 mins, then turn out onto a wire rack, remove the paper and leave to cool completely before icing.

Make the frosting by beating the butter and vanilla in your stand mixer until pale, light and creamy (an electric beater or wooden spoon would also work). Gradually beat in the icing sugar until light and fluffy. Lastly, on a slow setting, gently beat in the cream cheese.

Spread the frosting over the top of the tray bake in an even layer. To decorate, add a few baby carrots, chopped at different heights, and sprinkle with crushed nut brittle.

Shop

Walnuts & nut brittle

Food & Forest

Sultanas

Oliveology

Carrots

Ted’s Veg

CUCUMBER & GIN SORBET Kathy Slack

Serves 8

Gin and cucumber: two quintessential royal ingredients. Here I’ve combined the two to make a gin and cucumber sorbet. A kick of gin and the grassy green flavours of the cucumber make this sorbet a light, palatecleansing dessert for hot days. Adding glucose and alcohol means that the sorbet is soft straight from the freezer. And don’t be troubled by the colour when you make the juice – it won’t look like pond water once it’s churned, I promise.

Ingredients

300g caster sugar

40g liquid glucose

½ lemon, juiced

3 large cucumbers (600g in weight)

140ml gin

Method

Put the sugar and glucose in a saucepan with 300ml of water. Set the pan over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Do not let it boil. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice.

Juice the cucumbers. If you have one, you can do this in a juicer. If not, roughly chop them then whizz in a blender to make a watery puree. Line a sieve with muslin and set it over a bowl, then tip the puree into the sieve and leave for a few minutes so the juice drips through to the bowl below. You can gather the muslin into a bag and give it a gentle squeeze to encourage any last drops. Either process should result in approximately 500ml of juice.

Mix the sugary liquid and the cucumber juice together. Add the gin and put it in the fridge to chill. Once chilled, churn in an ice cream maker then transfer to the freezer to set completely.

A ROYAL QUIZ

Win Borough Market goodies

As part of our coronation celebrations, we’re giving you the chance to win a copy of our latest cookbook, Borough Market: The Knowledge, signed by its author Angela Clutton, or a commemorative coronation tote bag and tea towel. Enter your answers to our royal quiz at: boroughmarket.org.uk/coronation-quiz

1 2

Charles and Camilla were the guests of honour for the official reopening of Borough Market’s Three Crown Square in the same year that Barack Obama was sworn in for a second term and Andy Murray won his first Wimbledon title. What year was it?

2008

2011

2012

2013

King Henry I was said to have died from eating a “surfeit” of which fish?

Eel

Lamprey

Herring

Potted shrimp

3 4 5

The nickname of which monarch inspired the naming of a cocktail?

Richard I

Henry VIII

Mary

Elizabeth II

Which British monarch gave their name to a potato, an apple and a foie gras-stuffed chicken?

Elizabeth I

Victoria

Edward VII

Edward VIII

What ingredient distinguishes royal icing from regular glacé icing?

Egg white Butter

Lemon juice

Honey

King Charles is head of state of Jamaica, from where Borough Market’s Pimento Hill stall hails. By what alternative name is Jamaican pimento known?

Jerk

Allspice

Scotch bonnet

Nutmeg

Who was the British monarch in 1756 when Borough Market opened in its current location?

Charles II

Anne George II

George IV

The queen (or queenie) is a small, sweet-tasting variety of what?

Scallop Pear

Fruit pastry

Radish

Win

First prize

A signed copy of our cookbook, Borough Market: The Knowledge

Second & third prizes

Coronation tote bag and tea towel set

Borough Market sells specialist regional products from numerous European countries. Which of these nations retains a constitutional monarchy, like the UK?

Spain

Greece

Italy

Croatia

King Charles is patron of the Herdwick Breeders Association. The Herdwick is a breed of what animal?

Pig Cow

Goat

Sheep