!"#$%!& !"#"$"#"%"& ISSUE 39 WINTER 2013 R24.95 (incl VAT)
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As this edition goes to print, Winter has just pressed its cold nose into my hand to say hello, a bit like the way my neighbour’s Basset, Tilly, does. As much as I love Tilly, her form of greeting is not always a welcome sensation (cold, wet, a bit heavy on the slobber) and I feel the same about Winter. That said, there are many things I do appreciate about it, one of which is the chance to dress up in woolies and set off for a stomp outdoors - and we lucky Lowvelders have only to stick a pin in the map to come up with a panoramic hike or drive to someplace where the view, the ambience, the company or the food gives life a rosy glow.
ANDIE RODWELL Having relocated to the Lowveld from Johannesburg where she worked in the graphic design industry, Andie now indulges her interests in photography and art from her studio on the banks of the Olifants River in the Balule Reserve. When not behind the camera she is in front of an easel and has curated three solo exhibitions of her work to date. She shot the images of the beautiful Hoedspruit bush home on page 50.
We’ve gone out of our way to find interesting routes for you to explore and delightful things for you to do - from taking a slow food drive (page 16) to playing detective in a murder thriller (page 14); dressing the part for country activities (page 36); seeking out contemporary art way, way off the beaten track (page 22) or hunting down the most happening music in places you may not normally venture (page 8). Whichever you choose, savour the journey Slowveld style this Winter.
LEON KLUGE Leon is a leading landscaper and gardening guru. His credentials in recent years include designing South Africa’s entries at the Chelsea Flower Show and the Gardening World Cup in Japan. His signature vertical gardens feature in the luxury private homes of the rich and famous and in corporate installations around the country. Lowveld Living is proud to bring you the first in the exclusive series written for us by South Africa’s self-declared Rebel Gardener, which you can read on page 35. MELANIE REEDER-POWELL With a decade of experience in the magazine industry, blogger, author, editor and all-round print media junkie Melanie has written for pretty much everyone including Grazia, Elle, Marie Claire and Food and Home Entertaining. She also has a book to her credit (A Sangoma’s Story, Penguin Books) and after a pause in her career to have Baby Sam in November, Lowveld Living is thrilled to welcome her onto the team as a contributing editor.
ON THE COVER Sven Musica took the cover picture while shooting the fashion pages for the Country Pursuits feature (page 36) with its great ideas on where to go and what to do and wear for a stylish, relaxed Lowveld Winter.
LOWVELD LIVING ISSUE 39 WINTER 2013 R24.95 (incl VAT)
South Africa’s Lowveld Lifestyle Magazine
Lowveld Living’s free App is on its way! See page 5.
INSIDE: COUNTRY PURSUITS | HOEDSPRUIT BUSH LIVING ON THE TRAIL OF BLOOD SAFARI | SINGITA’S COOKING STARS SWAHILI STYLE IN VILANCULOS | CONTEMPORARY ART TOUR
This edition is all about the journey and we want to make sure you have access to the Lowveld’s classiest read no matter how far you roam, so we made you a Lowveld Living App (see our cover). From the middle of June you can download the entire magazine plus links to our advertisers’ web sites - absolutely free and have it at your fingertips wherever you go. You can also read the mag online at ISSUU (issuu.com/lowveldliving), talk to us via Facebook, follow us on Twitter and subscribe online at Zinio.
EDITOR Bev Tucker CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Melanie Reeder-Powell DESIGN & LAYOUT Charlotte Senini, Melodie Bowyer EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Bev Tucker, Sue Adams, Tracy Brooks, Peter Lawson, Samkela Stamper, Dianne Tipping-Woods, Melanie Reeder-Powell, Felicity Timcke PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART Sven Musica, Dr Jack, Andie Rodwell, Jennifer Wheatley PUBLISHER Lowveld Publishing - Louis van der Merwe ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE Audrey Ford, Leoni Viloen PRINTER Intrepid WEB www.lowveldlivingmagazine.com FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/LowveldLiving TWITTER www.twitter.com/lowveldliving
CONTACT US Tel: 013 751 3330 EDITORIAL email@example.com SALES firstname.lastname@example.org © Copyright 2012 Lowveld Living. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written permission of Lowveld Living Magazine or the publisher. The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. All editorial information contained herein is, and remains, the property of Lowveld Living Magazine and/ or its writers and/or photographers. Lowveld Living Magazine, its publishers, staff and contractors accept no liability for loss or damage in any form whatsoever arising from information, submissions or opinions expressed in this publication. Public comment and submissions are published at the sole discretion of Lowveld Living Magazine. E&OE.
Tel: 013 751 3088 Fax: 013 751 1867 email@example.com I www.casterbridgehollow.co.za
COURTYARD FRAMING & LIVING
GUMTREEZ PUB & GRILL
An owner run establishment, home to the finest food and coldest beer in the Lowveld. Casual outdoor areas provide for a great family, child and pet friendly atmosphere.
A creative organisation bringing the beauty of wood into our client’s homes and places of leisure, while promoting the recycling and regeneration of our indigenous vegetation.
Selection of vintage educational botanical prints and scatter cushions depicting art by the indigenous SAN people.
Opening in May : GumTreez To Go Pizzas, schwarmas and some surprise delights.
Our signature line includes fitted kitchens, bathrooms, bars and custom designed pieces.
013 751 1349 / 083 773 9929
013 750 0334 / 083 278 0676
013 750 0763 / 083 462 1584
Specialise in contemporary-retro framing, lighting and handcrafted gifts, décor items and art.
MY SMILE All general dentistry, Implants, Orthodontics, Aesthetic dentistry and teeth whitening. Dr Karen Kromhout and Dr Auke Van der Meulen SHOP G4–5 Tue-Fri 08h30–16h30
013 751 3144 firstname.lastname@example.org
Independent cinema seating 96 people. Wide range of handpicked movies. SPECIALS Hot Doggie Deal – R100pp
Incl: Movie, Foot-long Hotdog, Drink of Choice & Whisper Chocolates. Movie Club (last Thurs each month) – R150pp Incl: Two Course Meal at Ganache Café plus the Featured Movie – Booking essential! SHOWTIMES: TUES–SAT 18H00, TUES 14H30
Nestled under the mango trees in the courtyard. Our breakfast and lunch menus focus on local, seasonal produce and includes favourites such as Eggs Benedict, Antipasta Platter and Caesars Salad. SPECIALS The New Yorker – Salmon & Cream Cheese Bagel with a regular Cappuccino for R55 (Served daily from 8.30 – 11.30)
013 751 3894
013 750 2102 email@example.com
TWO SWORDS TEXTILES
A hidden gem of exotic, Indian and Middle Eastern spices. Wide range of difficult to source food ingredients and hand mix spices are stocked. SPECIALS Stock up on your Winter Masala R20 per 100g or R150.00 per kg
Homeware, décor items, jewellery and fun items for children.
Our shirts are hand printed, hand dyed and 100% cotton and are made in store, ensuring your unique size and colour. General style is subtly African, elegant and yet a little playful. This winter we have a special shirt made from high quality Egyptian Percale cotton.
083 449 4030 firstname.lastname@example.org
SOMETHING OLD SOMETHING NEW (FORMERLY THE GIFT SHOP) Vintage collectibles, clothing, jewellery, wedding gift registry and so much more. PHOTOGRAPHIX Chat to our experienced and helpful photographer about your photographic needs.
10% off any wedding package booked during May for available dates in 2013 and 10% off gift registrations. 079 984 4185 / 076 010 0924
LOMARGE BOUTIQUE We stock clothing ranges from SA designers Jinja, Nanine, Soul, Desray and Heart of Africa as well as shoes from Tsonga. Our new range of affordable but gorgeous jewellery, del Coursy, consists mainly of stainless steel. Browse through our discounted summer ranges – items are priced to go! 013 751 2422 / 084 507 3080 email@example.com
MAGNOLIA RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Indulge in Magnolia Café’s High Tea Chefs Table which includes delicious cakes, pies, sandwiches, wraps etc, as well as tea and coffee. EVERY TUESDAY 11AM–2PM R90 per adult R75 per pensioner 013 751 1947 www.mag-nolia.co.za
Inspiring, original SA product. We strive to support community upliftment projects and individual local crafters. Our planet friendly products incl. award winning Consol Solar Jar and the odourless worm composter.
013 751 2152/ 0836758833 firstname.lastname@example.org wikivillage.co.za/africa-joy
OUT @ CASTERBRIDGE An outdoor shop with a large variety of goods, including Capestorm, First Ascent, Salomon and SealSkinz cycling and trail running clothing and accessories. Visit us for Leathermans, Bushnell binoculars, torches and headlamps as well as a large selection of Jeep, Fox, Quicksilver and Roxy clothing.
013 750 0935
013 751 1517 / 072 638 7555 email@example.com
THE WHITE RIVER GALLERY A contemporary Gallery exhibiting the best of local as well as national artists. 10am - 4pm Weekdays and Sat 10am - 2pm Sun & Holidays 083 675 8833 firstname.lastname@example.org www.whiterivergallery.co.za
KRUGER LOWVELD TOURISM
FIT TO GO TRAINING CENTRE
Tourism information and booking office for accommodation and activities. Specialize in all SANparks bookings.
An exclusive gym where every member feels welcome and has their own individual training programme.
013 750 1073
You will have the assistance of a qualified personal trainer with over 20 years of experience. Yolanda 082 941 3480
Tel +27 (0)13 750 2358 email@example.com www.casterbridge.co.za Cnr of Hazyview Road (R40) & Numbi Road (R538)
WHITE RIVER I MPUMALANGA
5 12 14 16
Editor’s Letter The Good Life - Stick our list of event reminders on your fridge Lowveld Reads - Play detective on the spoor of Blood Safari Lowveld Flavours - Eat your way around the Lowveld’s deli route
DÉCOR & STYLE !! 34 18 36 42 50
Garden Living - Leon Kluge can’t keep his eyes off our verges Lowveld Décor - Manly style inside and outdoors Lowveld Leisure - Go, do, wear: country pursuits in the Lowveld Lowveld Spaces - A dreamy Swahili-styled beach house in Vilanculos Hoedspruit Living - Simplicity meets style in a private bush retreat
LOWVELD LIFE 8 22 26 28 30 32 60 66 70 72
Lowveld Vibes - The coolest venues for the hottest sounds Lowveld Art - Follow Felicity Timcke on a contemporary art tour Lowveld Flavours - Singita chefs in the making Radiant Living - A pick of spa getaways on our doorstep Lowveld Frontiers - Life in Tete, a booming coal rush town A day in the Life - The guy who shoos away the creepiest crawlies Lowveld Scene - Who was spotted where Marketplace - The Lowveld’s best buys Restaurant Guide - Great eats and ambience 7HY[PUN:OV[7L[LY3H^ZVU^P[ULZZLZHYHYLTPNYH[PVUVMI\[[LYÅPLZ
!"#$%&'%()&*#)&+#,)-%.*/ For as long as anyone can remember, the Lowveld has poured its talent into South African music across such diverse genres as Jazz, Gospel, Afropop, R&B, Rap, Hip Hop and House. Throw in the original mbaqange (folklore) sounds and you get a sense of the sweeping range of influences that produced local greats like Ray Phiri and Nothembi Mkhwebane. We scouted the region for the most happening music venues where future stars are being born
ENDUMBENI, KANYAMANE Words: Samkela Stamper When Sipho Banda founded Endumbeni club in 2007, he could not envisgae that it would mushroom into the hotspot it is today. In quirky kazi (township) style, the venue is a carwash by day and a music venue by night. On weekends it is wall-towall with visitors from neighboring Swaziland, Mozambique and Gauteng as well as its loyal following of Lowvelders, which as Banda says, “infuses it with local flavour.” Endumbeni has been graced with the crème de la crème of House music DJ’s including Glen Lewis, DJ duo Mahoota vs. Vetkoek, Ganyane, DJ Christos and the Lowveld’s home grown top names - DJ Sdunkero, DJ Euphonik and DJ Chrizoz among others. Banda is quick to point out that his club is not only about House music. “We bring in a bit of Kwaito and other genres now and again and have artists like Thebe and Pitch Black Afro coming through to please the fans.” Sundays are reserved for laidback, deep House by the likes of local boys, DJ T Wonder and DJ Treva Dee. If you want to experience the kasi vibe, groove the weekend away, chill while watching the vibrant street life and feast on shisa nyama (barbecued meat) made to a secret recipe - all while your car gets a wash and wax - then this is the place for you. Info: 013 7943979, Chris Hani Drive, Kanyamane (next to the police station) near White River
8!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
GIL VICENTE, MAPUTO Words : Melanie Reeder-Powell Whatever you do, donâ€™t bother getting to this Maputo club before midnight. I discovered this the hard way on my first visit, making my entrance at 10:30 thinking I might be just in time for a closing act. After a conversation with a waitress in broken Portuguese and failed attempts to display the hands of a clock with my arms, I figured out that not only was I way too early, but that the club has no starting time. Or closing time. Or sense of time, for that matter. Things just kind of happen when they happen. I sat nursing a whiskey for what felt like hours, but eventually musicians began arriving sporadically, armed with clarinets, saxophones, bongo drums and keyboards. The lights dimmed and the magic started. It was worth the wait. Gil Vicente pulls a headily cosmopolitan crowd who jam themselves into its slightly seedy, smoky interior. Expect to be serenaded by a 60-something saxophonist one minute and a dreadlocked clarinetplaying youngster the next. The audience all seemed to know one another and the camaraderie was fully evident after a couple of hours when a member of the audience hopped on stage and added his own lyrics to the session. You might be sleepy when you drag yourself away in the wee small hours, but youâ€™ll leave with a smile on your face. Info: Gil Vicente, 4 Marracuene Road, Maputo
THE CLUB HAS NO STARTING TIME. OR CLOSING TIME. OR SENSE OF TIME, FOR THAT MATTER
GROUND ZERO, MATSULU Words: Samkela Stamper Owing to its expansive park-like setting on the banks of the Crocodile River in Matsulu between Nelspruit and Malelane, Ground Zero has space for big crowds. It operates 24/7 and boasts a restaurant, bar, several swimming pools and braai areas and, more importantly, the Open Air night-club. It has hosted the likes of Big-Nuz, Chomee, Teargas, DJ Cleo, Zakes Bantwini, DJ Sbu, DJ Fresh, Euphonic, Oskido, DJ Tira, Lvovo, Alaska, Mahoota vs Vetkoek, Kelly Khumalo, Stone, Speedy, Cindo as well as local DJ’s Madumane, Shabba, DJ Chrizozo, Sdunkero and Sweet Mike … and the list goes on. The manager, Lucky Khanyile, says one of the shining moments for the Park, as they call it, was hosting the launch of Metro FM in Mpumalanga in 2009, “Which was all due to the
overwhelming demand from the community of Mpumalanga at large,” he says. If the noisy night owl crowd is not your cuppa, Ground Zero is also home to a relaxed daytime music in the form of Ligwalagwala radio station’s chilled Sunday Soul Sessions held on the last Sunday of the month. People load up the kids, pack picnic baskets and spend the day on the rolling lawns enjoying the live radio broadcast in a secure environment. “We’re big on safety,” says Lucky. “Before an event we engage with the SAPS, Traffic Police and the surrounding community to avoid any incidents or bad occurrences. We also have 24-hour security on site to ensure the safety of our visitors.” Info: Lucky Khanyile 013 744 3656 or 072 204 4088
IMPROVISATION IS AT THE HEART OF JAZZ AND THESE ARTISTS ARE FINDING NEW WAYS TO BLEND CONTEMPORARY MUSIC WITH TRADITIONAL JAZZ SOUNDS IN PURSUIT OF THE PERFECT PHRASE
10!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
MZANSI JAZZ LAPA, ACORNHOEK Words: Dianne Tipping-Woods The Mzansi Jazz Lapa in Acornhoek is a live music venue and restaurant that hosts regular performances by a range of passionate South African Jazz musicians. “There is a very special vibe in Acornhoek and so much talent,” says Hichem Ben Azzouz, who manages a Facebook page for the venue, which relies on word-of-mouth to advertise its shows. Owned by Carlton Marule, the Jazz Lapa attracts multi-cultural music-lovers from near and far who gather to share their love of the conversation known as South African Jazz. Performers include Acornhoek artists, musicians from the rest of Mpumalanga and occasionally from further afield. Audiences can expect anything from old-school Jazz dancing straight out of 50’s Sophiatown to more avant-garde work. Jazz Lapa has hosted, among others, the Nkgo Jazz Band from Pretoria, Soul Fenders from Graskop and The Stone Aged Souls, a collaborative ensemble of visual artist Tawanda Mhandu, singer-songwriter Joel Karabo Elliott and singer-poet Dennias Mashegwane. They also regularly host performers from the regional Jazz club, who play for nothing more than their love of music. Visitors can enjoy a hearty traditional meal at Anjou’s Chicken or at Mzansi Restaurant before each performance. “You won’t forget the warm welcome from the people you meet here and will leave having made new friends,” says Ben Azzouz. “This place is about so much more than the music; it’s about bringing people together and building bridges between our communities.” Info: Carlton Marule 0827736584
food, family & better together
hot happenings in the lowveld
Festival season is upon us and with so many events on the go at the same time, it’s easy to forget where you should be. Stick these reminders on your fridge and we’ll see you there!
UPLANDS FESTIVAL, 2426 MAY The Uplands School Campus goes into overdrive every year at this time with an event that has become synonymous with family fun and arty exhibits. A fun park for children (jumping castles, pony rides, candy floss, the works), loads of food, a beer hall, exhibitions by local artists, live music, equestrian events and more. Info: www.uplandsfestival.co.za
CELEBRATING MOZAMBIQUE, 2429 JUNE For the third year running, the Polana Serena Hotel plays host to Celebrando Mocambique, from 24-29 June. It’s a feast of Mozambican culture, including photography, sculpture, gastronomy, theatre, dance, music and crafts, with all events scheduled in and around the hotel’s sweeping grounds, and plush restaurants and bars. Info: Polana Serena Hotel, Maputo (+258) 21 241 700/800
NELSPRUIT MOTOR SHOW, 1314 JULY Some very big names in the motoring world are making their way to Nelspruit in early July … Ferrari California, Ferrari FF, Maserati GranTurismo Sport and Maserati GranCabrio Sport. Free entry to view these beauts and many more at Riverside Mall. Info: Lesley 082 494 4279 firstname.lastname@example.org
12!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
Innibos Arts Festival, Nelspruit 26-29 June Mpumalanga’s annual humdinger fest of Afrikaans music, art, theatre and film takes place in late June. The organisers have outdone themselves yet again with a programme that covers the spectrum of the arts including literature and theatre as well as the concerts on the outdoor stage and classical music; plus competitions galore. Full details online at www.innibos.co.za
Hoedspruit Haze, 28-29 June
Join the Hoedspruit Air Force Base for their 35th anniversary reu nion celebrations at the Drakensig Sports Field. Planes, flybys, stalls, bands, parades, exh ibitions - nothing beats airforce fanfare. Info: Gys van Staden afbhsptprojects@ gmail.com Carrie Forder email@example.com
Schools Electric Vehicle Challenge, 19 May
As the name suggests, clever kids design and build electric vehicles, which they race for prizes and massive kudos on race day at Riverside Mall under the auspices of the White River Rotary Club. Info: Ed Coombes 013 751 3188; Renata Wagner 083 600 1131; www.rotarywhiteriver.co.za
Komatipoort Prawn Festival, 19 June
It’s small but it’s tasty … this finger licking day is now in its 26th year and is entertainment for the whole family with live music on an outdoor stage, market stalls, a fun fair, a beer tent and, of course, prawns galore. Info: Marius 082 888 0188
16 JU NE 20 13 H
D AY S
%-&).-$%+/0#1) +, )* ( ' ' & % $ !"## 234)5"#6 liciousness packed with music,
ad for the Wintery de aplenty, he ts ar e iv at e mas in eats and cr njoy Christ troom to e lls u D arkling f o sp s r, hill ld weathe co f o live e p ci as fare and July. The re nal Christm io it s ad e tr u n s, d at ve decoration c performe si u m r e th rm o al a fi Blues and e the festiv ce n has mad w to d great chan n a u o is ar ars. This ye e th r at ve d ur han favourite o and try yo r fake furs u yo n emselves so o th d d to s that len it u rs . u p y me of year the countr tting and ti se e th . w to w ? Info: w beautifully ng anyone ti o o sh n o Clay pige ival.com/ winterfest dullstroom
Mogale ( aka Moholoholo) Rehabilitation Centre
R40 & R351 (aka 531) Junction
Motlatse Canyon Provincial Nature Reserve
Manyaleti Game Reserve
Mohlolobe ( aka Mala-Mala) Private Game Reserve
2 Hazyview Sabie
ON THE TRAIL OF
2 White River
Kruger International Airport
Kanyamazane Nelspruit Southmed (aka Nelspruit Mediclinic) Clinic
6 Heuningklip Farm Songimvelo Game Reserve
14!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
Deon Meyer has achieved international status as a thriller writer. His work is published in 20 languages and has won multiple awards. Blood Safari was the recipient of the Afrikaanse Taal en Kultuurvereniging (ATKV) 2008 prize for Best Suspense Fiction as well as Germanyâ€™s Krimi Award.
There’s special pride in reading a thriller written by an award-winning South African author especially when the action happens in your own backyard. !"#$%&'"(()*&takes readers on an armchair tour of some of the region’s top attractions as she follows the clues in Deon Meyer’s bestselling '+((,&-#.#"/
he plot is built around wildlife poaching, specifically
Mogale is identifiable
of vultures, and features environmental activists and a
as the real life
political assassination as well as being peppered with
eccentric bushveld characters. The reader is swept up in
the wake of Emma le Roux and her bodyguard, known simply as
near Hoedspruit. Here
Lemmer, as they go in search of Emma’s brother who vanished in
Emma and Lemmer
the Kruger National Park decades earlier and is presumed dead.
uncover new clues
Emma contacts the police after seeing a news item about
about the mysterious
a Cobie de Villiers who is wanted for the murder of four
de Villiers who worked
vulture poachers and a witchdoctor - and who looks like her
at Mogale at the time of the original
missing brother. Within hours, she is attacked in her home
murders. Anyone who has done a tour of the real life
and a threatening telephone call warns her against meddling.
Moholoholo will appreciate the description of Emma’s awe
Determined to find out if her brother is still alive, she hires Lemmer and they set off for the Lowveld.
at feeding the Cape Vulture. 4.
Racial and political tension, corruption, greed and violence
The story’s hair-raising car chase scene occurs outside Hoedspruit at the junction of the R40 and R531, which is
are all part of the mix as Lemmer works furiously to solve the
renamed the R351 in the book. Escaping from a shot-out
puzzle and find Emma’s brother while she fights for her life after
BMW, Lemmer and an injured Emma make an unsuccessful
being badly injured in a second attack. As a subtle romance
attempt to leap aboard a passing train, before fleeing to a
develops between the leading characters, the author takes
small homestead. In classic South African style, a minibus
readers on a pulse-quickening adventure.
taxi plays ambulance, taking the wounded pair to Southmed Clinic, which is our very own Nelspruit Mediclinic under a
MAP POINTS 1.
Emma and Lemmer’s adventure begins when their plane
thin disguise. 5.
As the plot unfolds, Mariepskop Mountain stands silent
lands at Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport with its
witness to the
soaring thatch-roofed airport buildings. The architecture,
action, her moods
which is so characteristic of the Lowveld, immediately
establishes a sense of the exotic bushveld.
Emma and her bodyguard travel through the small
light. Climbing her
towns of White River and Hazyview and check in at the
steep slopes affords
fictional Mohlolobe Private Game Reserve. Meyer based
his description of
view across the
this lodge on the
Lowveld, the west
Camp in MalaMala
Manyaleti Game Reserve, named in the book, where the
Game Reserve. The attempts on Emma’s
vulture poaching takes place. 6.
Leaving the lead characters at Southmed Clinic recovering
life continue and
from their wounds, the trail takes the reader south to the
Swazi border and the fictional farm Heuningklip, belonging
lodge staff are drawn
to Stef Moller an environmental activist. The writer places
violently into danger. The plot takes a grisly twist when the
the farm adjacent to the real Songimvelo Game Reserve,
gate guard is found murdered.
which is mentioned by name. To reveal more about Moller would ruin the story’s final twist for new readers; suffice to say he is crucial to the plot, which culminates dramatically at this site.
!"#$Deli%&'()*+$Route Photos: Tracy Brooks and Bev Tucker
The Lowveld is a cornucopia of irresistible fresh produce from tropical fruit and avos galore to nuts, veggies, meat, trout and all manner of pantry decadence. Tracy Brooks suggests you travel hungry and carry a cooler box
BERGEN CHEESE, DULLSTROOM Owner Daphne Wasserman is proud of her cheese platter comprising six cheeses with cured meats, pickles, preserves and homemade bread. Visit the tasting room in town or the farm in Tonteldoos. They are currently upgrading their factory so that the cows will soon be milked to the strains of classical music. Stock up on preservative, colourant and chemical-free cheeses made the old fashioned way. Bergen Cheese 013 254 0074
SUMMERFIELDS ORGANIC DELI, HAZYVIEW Ilse van Heerdenâ€™s obsession with organic, homegrown and natural ingredients finds expression in the classiest and most exquisite setting. For breakfast try macadamia butter on bread made with stoneground flour and topped with an organic egg. If you have more time, wander through her veggie and herb garden before lunching on beautifully presented salads, organic cheese, Parma ham made in South Africa, sun-ripened tomatoes, roast veggies and more. They have a liquor licence so you can dream an afternoon away watching the Banded Mongoose family that often pops out of the indigenous bush to play under the sprinklers. Sheer heaven. Summerfields 013 737 6500
CAVALIERI WHOLESALE DELI, NELSPRUIT Owners Karen and Paolo Cavalieri stock high-end products not readily available elsewhere in the Lowveld. Regular visits to Cape Town keep them inspired and up to date with trends in delicatessen products. While best known for their cheeses and olives, anything that is new and interesting - or promises to excite the many five star lodge chefs who frequent the shop - will find a home on these shelves. Cavalieri Wholesale Deli 013 752 6438
16!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
LE PÂTISSIER AND BRIE STREET, WHITE RIVER Look out for the Farmstyle Centre housed in a large barn-style building beside the R40. The Lowveld’s well-known Belgian master baker, Gérard Mercier of Le Pâtissier, has built his dream kitchen here; he sells fresh artisanal breads as well as the most delicate, decadent Continental confectionary. Take some home or enjoy with a good coffee at the Brie Street deli, which shares table space with the bakery. Brie Street sells meats, cheeses, spices and condiments and the two businesses have a pleasing synergy. Brie Street chef Jubeda Yacoob is a dab hand at curries and something of a Lowveld institution. She will guide you in buying the right combination of spices to recreate her dishes in your own kitchen. Brie Street, White River 013 750 2026
ZANNA’S FLAVOUR JUNCTION, WHITE RIVER Sue Butowsky and Tracey Golitz are determined to educate local residents about delicatessen shopping and eating. Their mantra is “consistency, personal attention and sourcing products requested by customers”. It has earned them fans all over the Lowveld plus rave reviews on the global travel website, Trip Advisor. Zanna’s prepared frozen meals are in high demand; a walk-in fridge keeps meats, herbs and vegetables fresh, while shelves groan under their load of coffees, pestos, oils and gourmet must-haves like fresh vanilla pods. Zanna’s 013 750 0469
BRIE STREET, HAZYVIEW Brie Street (see above) has opened a sister shop in the Perry’s Bridge Centre. The fresh, clean feel of unvarnished pine tables greets your arrival; pastries, cheeses and meats glisten invitingly behind their chrome and perspex counters. Brie Street 013 750 2026
POD PANTRY + LIFESTYLE, MALELANE Look out for this brand new shop just before entering the Kruger Park via Malelane Gate. Jan Spear is the stylish brains behind the understated elegance of the interior and sells the sort of deli foods discerning Park visitors will enjoy tucking into, including buffalo milk mozzarella and similar top-drawer goodies. Squeeze a few small décor items into the car or send a lorry back for furniture. Pod Pantry + Lifestyle, firstname.lastname@example.org
MILLY’S, MACHADODORP No trip through the trout triangle is complete without calling in here to sample trout pies, pate’s, roulades and quiches accompanied by Milly’s famous dill and mustard dressing. The shop sells a dazzling array of homemade jams and pickles and we defy you to leave with just one. Milly’s Country Trout Stall 013 256 0718
take it outside
Lingering afternoon sunlight, chilled bubbly, a fur throw ... settle back in style for your next picnic with interior products that transition effortlessly to the great outdoors Photos: Sven Musica Styling: Audrey Ford
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Cheese board platter, Ganache Cafe, Casterbridge; round board, Loads of Living, Riverside Mall; cheese knives, Mr Price Home, I’langa Mall
All cutlery, crockery and glasses Mr Price Home, I’langa Mall
Champagne holder, Loads of Living, Riverside Mall; Champagne from The Green Door, Casterbridge; patterned throw, quilt and cushions, Mr Price, I’langa Mall; steel chair and wicker stool, Courtyard Framing, Casterbridge; Picnic basket, Cape Union Mart, I’langa Mall
Stockists: Ganache Cafe, Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre, White River, 013 750 2102. Loads of Living, Riverside Mall, Nelspruit, 013 757 0936. Mr Price Home, I'Langa Mall, Nelspruit, 013 742 2268. The Green Door, Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre, 072 321 7750. Courtyard Framing, Casterbridge, 013 751 1349. Cape Union Mart, I'Langa Mall, 013 742 2281. Diplomat Luggage Specialists, Riversdie Mall, 013 757 0126. Leather duffel and sling bag, Diplomat Luggage Specialists, Riverside Mall
A man needs his space - use these ideas to make his retreat inviting Photos: Sven Musica Styling: Audrey Ford
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Fur throw and beige cushions, Loads of Living, Riverside Mall; red clock, Boardmans, Riverside Mall, white cushions with text detail, Mr Price, I’langa Mall.
Plastic wine glasses, Courtyard Framing, Casterbridge; various vases and ceramic birds, Mr Price I’langa Mall. Red serving tray, Boardmans, Riverside Mall.
Small rug, wooden candlestick holders and cushions, Mr Price, I’langa Mall; large carpet, Kathmandu, Riverside Mall; poker set games box, Boardmans Riverside Mall; wire buffalo head, Africa Joy, Casterbridge.
Stockists: Loads of Living, Riverside Mall, Nelspruit, 013 757 0936. Boardmans, Riverside Mall, 013 757 0095. Mr Price Home, I’Langa Mall, Nelspruit, 013 742 2268. Courtyard Framing, Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre, White River, 013 751 1349. Katmandu, Riverside Mall, 013 757 0135. Africa Joy, Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre, 013 751 2152.
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Traveller and art enthusiast, !"#$%$&'()$*%+", immersed herself in the Lowveld art scene when she embarked on a specialist tour showcasing the best contemporary art to be found in the region Photos: Felicity Timcke
he tour began on a cool autumn morning when we were met by our jovial tour guide, Sertorio Mshothola from Ntwanano Tours and Transfers and his associate John Anthony Boerma, a contemporary art expert and founder of Art Aid, who has been an avid champion of local artists for the past 25 years. 2XUĂ€UVWGHVWLQDWLRQZDVWKH$UWLVWVÂˇ3UHVVVHWDPRQJSHFDQWUHHV and mango groves on the Brondal Road not far from Nelspruit. Owner Mark Attwood walked us through his printing press and explained the complex process of printmaking. A plate is made for each colour UHSUHVHQWHGLQWKHZRUNDQGODWHUSULQWHGSODWHE\SODWH3ULQWVRIZRUNV by some of the most important names in the South African art world such as William Kentridge, Sam Nhlengethwa and Colbert Mashile are available here. The tour group had the opportunity to meet artist Dumisani Mabaso whose works were in the preparation process. Our next stop was Graskop where the mountains grew gracefully bigger and the views more impressive the higher we climbed. The crisp afternoon air had a chill to it as we checked in at the Graskop Hotel. This YLOODJHKRVWHOU\LVDJDOOHU\LQLWVHOI(YHU\URRPLVĂ€OOHGZLWKRULJLQDODUW making it a must-see for art lovers. Harrie Siertsema, co-owner, collector DQGFXUDWRUKDVĂ€OOHGHYHU\DYDLODEOHVSDFHZLWKLQWHUHVWLQJSLHFHVIURP his own collection of South African art and antiques. $QLQWULFDWHZLUHVFXOSWXUHE\:DOWHU2OWPDQQGHOLFDWHO\Ă€OWHUHG the afternoon sunlight. Nearby, a complex wooden structure by Willem %RVKRIIDQGDQHTXDOO\FRPSOLFDWHGÂś/HWWHUWR*RGÂˇE\WKHVDPHDUWLVW occupied prominent positions, while pieces by Keith Dietrich, Claudette Schreuders and other well-known artists featured throughout the hotel. A short stroll from the front door is the Sunshine Gallery, home WRWKH0RGHUQ$UW3URMHFW0$3 ZKLFKJLYHVH[SRVXUHWRGHYHORSLQJ contemporary artists by providing a platform where they can experiment, exhibit and sell their art. The space contains the work of artists like Eric Modipane from Bushbuck Ridge. 'D\WZRFDWDSXOWHGXVIURP*UDVNRSÂˇVVHUHQHKLOOVWR0R]DPELTXHÂˇV vastly different, vibrant energy. The guides for this leg of our journey ZHUHDUWVSHFLDOLVW-DQH)ORRGDVVLVWHGE\:DOWHU7HPEHDĂ€IWK\HDU DUFKLWHFWXUHVWXGHQW7KHWRXUJURXSÂˇVĂ€UVWPHDOLQ0DSXWRZDVOXQFK DW6RSKLDÂˇVDUDPEXQFWLRXVUHVWDXUDQWVHUYLQJH[FHOOHQWVHDIRRGZKLFK we washed down with the local beer. 7KHUHIROORZHGDKRWGULYHRQDPD]HRIUHGVDQGURDGVWRWKH Chissano Gallery in Matola, a residential area outside the city. As we piled from the vehicle we were enveloped in a fusion of African -D]]5HJJDHDQGWRZQVKLSPXVLFFRPLQJIURPWKHbaraccos, a QHLJKERXUKRRGZDWHULQJKROH:HZHUHJUHHWHGE\3DVTXHOHV&RPH the curator of a gallery housed in the former home of the late Alberto &KLVVDQRFRQVLGHUHGWREHRQHRI0R]DPELTXHÂˇVPRVWLPSRUWDQWDQG LQĂ XHQWLDODUWLVWVEHVWNQRZQIRUKLVVFXOSWXUHVFDUYHGIURPLQGLJHQRXV woods. :RUNVE\&KLVVDQRÂˇVVWXGHQWVIURPHDFKRIZKRPKHERXJKWD SLHFHOLQHWKHVWDLUZD\WRWKHVHFRQGĂ RRUDQGPLQJOHZLWKDUWE\ RWKHUSURPLQHQW0R]DPELFDQDUWLVWVLQFOXGLQJ0DODQJDWDQD1JZHQ\D 6DPDWH0XOXQJR$EGLD]0XKODQJD9LFWRU6RXVDDQG(GXDUGR6 Tingatinga. Hours later, emotionally taxed and deeply pensive, our JURXSWRRNOHDYHRI3DVTXHOHVDQG&KLVVDQRZKROLHVEXULHGLQWKH
lowveldart shade of the front garden yet is still very much alive through his art. Our last night in Maputo was spent at the Cardoso, an LFRQLF$UW'HFRKRWHOEXLOWLQWKHÂˇV7KLVJUDQGHGDPH KDVZHDWKHUHGVHYHUDOZDUVDQGKRVWHGFRXQWOHVVKLJKSURĂ€OH JXHVWV$IWHUDQRWKHU0R]DPELFDQVHDIRRGWUHDWWKLVWLPHDW the Clube Naval, the Maputo Yacht Club, followed by live PXVLFDWWKHKLVWRULF0DSXWR5DLOZD\6WDWLRQRQ3UDFDGRV Trabalhadores, which is now a popular nightlife venue, we FROODSVHGLQWREHGZLWKRXUPLQGVEX]]LQJIURPWKHJDPXWRI art and architecture we had soaked up in the previous 24 hours. 'D\WKUHHEHJDQEULVNO\ZLWKDZDONLQJWRXURI0DSXWRÂˇV architecture. The route took us past the Museum of Natural History, an ornamented Manuelian building displaying the armillary sphere and cross, the motif introduced by King 0DQXHO,GXULQJ3RUWXJDOÂˇVYR\DJHVRIGLVFRYHU\LQWKHODWH ÂˇVKRPHVGHFRUDWHGZLWKLQWULFDWHazulejosWKH3RUWXJXHVH WLQJOD]HGWLOHVDFULVSO\ZKLWH$UDELDQVW\OHKRPHQRZWKH 0XVHXPRI*HRORJ\DQGQXPHURXVH[DPSOHVRI$UW'HFR GHVLJQGDWLQJIURPWKHÂˇVDQGÂˇV 7KHWRXUFXOPLQDWHGDWWKH0R]DPELTXH1DWLRQDO$UW *DOOHU\DĂ€WWLQJIXOOVWRSPDUNLQJWKHHQGRIWKLVWUXO\ kaleidoscopic visit. Later, as we made our way home over the border to South Africa tranquil stars and a slipper-moon put the Ă€QDOJLOGHGWRXFKWRWKHYLVXDOWDSHVWU\P\H\HVKDGIHDVWHGRQ for the past three days. If anything, the trip was too short. I will be back.
1. $UWLVW'XPLVDQL0DEDVRVHHVKLPVHOIDVDEXWWHUĂ \OLYLQJ IURPGD\WRGD\DQGGUDZLQJLQVSLUDWLRQIURPZKDWHDFK QHZGDZQEULQJVÂ´DELWOLNH6XĂ€VPÂľKHVD\V 2. Goncalo Mabundaâ€™s chair made from decommissioned ZHDSRQVXVHGLQWKH0R]DPELTXHUHYROXWLRQ 3. *RUGRQ)URXGWKHÂśSOD\IXOHQJLQHHUÂˇXVHGSODVWLFFRDW KDQJHUVLQDPXOWLWXGHRIZD\VWRPDNHDEODFNDQGZKLWH IHDWXUHZDOOLQWKLVEHGURRPLQWKH*UDVNRS+RWHO 5RRPKDVDPDWWUHVVVSULQJFKDQGHOLHUE\&ODXGH .UXJHUDQG$Q]XQHWWH'X3OHVVLV 7KH6XQVKLQH*DOOHU\LQ*UDVNRSLVRZQHGDQGFXUDWHG E\DUWLVW*ULHWYDQGHU0HXOHQÂ´7KHUHVKRXOGEHVRPHWKLQJ IRUHYHU\RQHÂľVKHVD\VÂ´,KDYHKDQGVHOHFWHGWKHSLHFHV IRFXVLQJRQ$IULFDQĂ DYRXUVZLWKRXWWKHSLHFHVEHLQJ FXULRVÂľ &KLVVDQRÂˇVVFXOSWXUHUHĂ HFWVWKH0R]DPELFDQ:DURI ,QGHSHQGHQFHDQDUPHGFRQĂ LFWZKLFKODVWHGIURP WR7KHVSLULWRIVWUXJJOHERWKKXPDQDQGSROLWLFDO SHUPHDWHV&KLVVDQRÂˇVKRXVHZKLFKLVQRZDJDOOHU\ GHGLFDWHGWRKLVZRUN Felicity Timcke travelled with Ntwanano Tours and Travel ZZZQWZDQDQRWRXUVFR]DRU
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In the remote reaches of the Kruger National Park, a cooking school is quietly teaching world-class culinary skills to a growing number of young chefs from rural villages in the region
he Singita School of Cooking was established under the auspices of Singita Lebombo to develop culinary skills among youth from neighboring communities. Up to ten students are selected annually from applicants who meet the entrance criteria, one of which is a genuine interest in cooking. Former student, Mavis Mongoe was the middle child in a large Shangaan family raised in the Welverdiend village near the Kruger
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Park’s Orpen Gate. Her mother supported the family by selling fruit and vegetables from a roadside stall. Mavis’ journey from the limited opportunities in Welverdiend to the role of Commis Chef at Singita’s Lebombo Lodge, one of Relais & Châteaux’s leading hotels in a group that has a global reputation for gourmet cuisine, began when she moved 350km from home to Vereeniging in Gauteng to work in a bustling corner café.
TO DATE THE SCHOOL HAS TRAINED 30 YOUNG CHEFS, 14 OF WHOM NOW WORK IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY. OF THESE, SIX ARE COMMIS CHEFS OR DEMI CHEFS DE PARTIE AT SINGITA LODGES IN SOUTHERN AFRICA
Her job entailed cooking large volumes of low-cost, deepfried food such as ‘bunny-chow’(a loaf of bread hollowed out and usually filled with curried mince), ‘Russian’ sausages and traditional slap chips (potato chips). The experience taught Mavis basic food knowledge and boosted her confidence in her cooking ability, but several months later she returned home to find work closer to her family. When her church minister handed Mavis a Singita School of Cooking flyer inviting student applications she did not hesitate. She was one of five students chosen to attend. In the ensuing 18-months of the course, a new culinary world opened its doors to her. As part of their training, students at the school prepare staff meals in a live kitchen environment before they graduate to the lodge’s five star kitchens where they are trained by some of
the world’s top chefs. In 2012, Lucien Green, the Senior Training and Development Chef at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Apprentice Programme, spent a week at the school - an example of the opportunities students can access in this sponsored programme. With a rounded education and some experience under their belts, graduates like Mavis are qualified to apply for positions at Singitaowned lodges throughout Africa or to venture elsewhere in the hospitality industry. In Mavis’ case, Singita spotted her talent right from the start and offered her a junior position as soon as she graduated. Since then she has been promoted from student chef to Commis Chef at Singita Lebombo where she now conjures up cuisine that could not be farther removed from her days of frying chips and sausages in a corner café.
!"#gazing The spa industry has become a reason to travel all on its own. !"#$%&"'("")"*+,-."##'went in search of the most indulgent getaways close to Nelspruit
SUMMERFIELDS ROSE RETREAT AND SPA The Summerfields estate is an ode to the majestic rose. From its luxury tented accommodation dotted along the Sabie River, to the restaurant and world-class spa (a finalist in the 2012 World Luxury Spa Awards), the flower and all it symbolises, takes centre stage. The spa offers gorgeous open-air treatment rooms, providing a pampering mind/body experience set to nature’s score of rushing water and grunting hippos – no piped versions of ‘My heart will go on’ or fake whale song here. Their facilities include a steam room, outdoor Jacuzzi, a swimming pool overlooking the river, Vichy shower and unique Hydro Walk along the banks of the river, a way of utilising the landscape to create a reflexology experience. The array of therapeutic ingredients come direct from the Lowveld’s own lush pantry and include yoghurt, honey, cucumber, coffee, macadamia nut oil, banana leaves, sugar, pawpaw and, of course, rose petals. Healthy organic fare is available from the nearby River Café or around the picturesque Lapa Bar. Signature treatments: You can’t go wrong with the Natural Signature Facial, beginning with a relaxing macadamia oil back, neck and shoulder massage (R650 for 90 minutes). The Eden Romantica Couples Package sets a romantic tone from the start, beginning in the double treatment room strewn with rose petals and bathed in candlelight. Choose between a Basalt Hot Stone or a Swedish massage, followed by the reflexology Hydro Walk. Wrap up the treatment with a hydro bath complete with strawberries and cream, chocolates and sparkling wine (R2500 per couple for 3 and a half hours). Summerfields offers specialised treatments for cyclists thanks to the large volume of races held in the area. The saddle weary can try the Calabash Full Body Massage (R525). Weekend wellness: The Summerfields Estate boasts a riverside lodge with twelve tented luxury suites set among stunning indigenous bush accessible by raised wooden walkways. Further healthy pursuits include walks, a swimming pool and a five kilometre jogging track through beautiful scenery. Autumn treats: Book the Me Time Treatment, a 45-minute full body coffee exfoliation followed by a shower and a body butter rub (R375) or try the Heaven On Earth which includes a Fiesta Manicure and Florentine Pedicure plus a massage and a light
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snack R700). For a sensual change there is the Candle With Love package, a 30-minute back, neck and shoulder massage with aromatherapy fragrances and the air scented by a fragrant candle, followed by a light snack (R600) while the Mother And I Massage makes a wonderful mother and daughter day out (R675). Contact 013 737 6500 www.summerfields.co.za
SPA BELLAREHO AT PINE LAKE RESORT A brand new addition to the picture-perfect Pine Lake Resort at Lake Longmere, Spa Bella-Reho is a wellness haven just a stone’s throw from Nelspruit and White River. Opt for a pretreatment sauna before choosing between open-air massages at the pool deck or in the treatment rooms. The spa uses the award-winning South African brand Nimue. Health platters are available on request and all clients receive a beverage of their choice during their spa visit, whether hot chocolate, a cappuccino or even a glass of wine. Signature treatments: Banish the autumn chill with a Hot Lava Shell massage, which uses particular shells from the Philippines to gently massage your body. The heat generates naturally from inside the shells due to a chemical reaction between minerals, algae, salt water and essential oils. The naturally generated warmth can last for up to two hours. Weekend wellness: Although one could easily unwind just by spending time in this spectacular scenery, Pine Lake Resort has a host of activities on offer including a gym, tennis courts, fishing and canoeing on the lake as well as fun action golf. Autumn treats: Book a 30-minute back massage (R250) and treat a friend for free, or do a couples massage (R600) and save R200. Contact 013 750 0709 www.tsogosun.com and search Pine Lake Resort
CYBELE SPA IN THE FOREST Over the years, this Lowveld legend has been featured internationally by the likes of Tatler Magazine and it remains a destination spa of choice. Cybele Spa in the Forest has a wide range of treatments with the beautiful established gardens making a serene backdrop to rejuvenation and relaxation. There are two hydrotherapy jet baths, one hewn from natural granite and set in its own private outdoor courtyard, the other located indoors for year-round use. Other facilties include a steam room, sauna, a Rasul Chamber and spacious showers with multiple high-pressure jets. The spa uses Clarins, Moya (a local, 100% natural product used for body treatments and Rasul clays) and OPI professional spa products. Guests can choose between having their treatments in a double treatment room, one of two separate therapy rooms, or their own suite. The restaurant caters for spa guests, offering light lunches as well as the regular a la carte menu and the kitchen will meet any dietary requirements including detox diets. Signature treatments: The 60-minute African Rungu and Calabash Massage (R620) utilises a rungu (a wooden baton with East African tribal origins) and a calabash to vary massage textures and pressures. Weekend wellness: Cybele is famous as much for its hospitality as for its setting in an unspoiled Lowveld forest of huge, ancient trees. To fully experience the environment, visitors can take a well-signposted forest walk ending at a glittering waterfall where a private picnic lunch awaits. For the energetic, there is a pool and gym as well as mountain bikes for exploring the beautiful scenery. Autumn treats: Cybele offers a wide variety of packages to suit most spa-going budgets. The best thing to do is stay the night and have a Romantic Turn Down Package, combining spa treatments with a five-course dinner served in your suite (R2500 per couple) but next best is the Ultimate External Bliss Package, six hours of luxurious indulgence (R3280). For those with less time to spare there is the Clarins Detoxifying Package that last 3 hours (R1855) or the Nourish Package (R830). Contact 013 764 9500 www.cybele.co.za or email@example.com
CITY ESCAPE If you donâ€™t have time for a weekend getaway, slip off for a half-day pamper session at the brand new Sorbet Spa and Salon in Nelspruit. The pristine dĂŠcor, great service and luxury product ranges (including Dermalogica) have made the Sorbet franchise a national success story. They cater for men, women and teens with a menu of manis, pedis, Contact: 013 757 1014 firstname.lastname@example.org tinting, artificial nails, Shop 6A The Grove Shopping Centre Gelish, massages, facials, waxing and more.
hanging times bring changing needs and coal has replaced gold and diamonds as the resource de jour. The estimated 700 billion metric tonnes of coal discovered in Tete has drawn thousands of people from all over the world to live and work in conditions not dissimilar to those endured by the diggers of old in places like Barberton and Pilgrims Rest. Heat, dust, abominable roads, language barriers, lack of goods and services, shortage of accommodation and the difficulties of creating a semblance of normalcy in a remote, foreign country are just some of the challenges faced by the Tete pioneers. Despite this, and for the same reason that diggers flocked to the Lowveld 200 years ago, fortune seekers continue to trek to Tete in pursuit of financial opportunity. A vast infrastructure, much of it South African driven, is developing in parallel with the coal rush to support the requirements of the new mines and influx of people. Africa, as the saying goes, is not for sissies, and life in Tete is far from easy.
‘Hot’ and ‘hell’ are the two words most used to describe the town.
Nevertheless, the expatriates in Tete are tough and upbeat about living and working here. South African Alla le Roux has been in Tete for over two years after he leapt at the opportunity to set up a construction business in the town. He is excited about the prospects and now considers Tete home. “The key to Tete is being able to put down roots,” he says, “and even if I move from Tete I’ll stay in Mozambique.” Alla predicts the coal boom will last another 15 to 20 years. He has already witnessed big improvements in
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The discovery of coal in Mozambique’s northern Tete Province has prompted something akin to the gold rush in the old Eastern Transvaal back in the 1800’s. Tracy Brooks visited this frontier town and met some modern-day pioneers
the town but admits to missing shopping centres and says that just thinking about a Steers burger gets his mouth watering. Even so, he doesn’t hanker for South Africa. He cautions that expats “go off the rails as soon as they cross the border”. Being a former member of the Tete National Drinking Team he has first-hand experience of the leading role alcohol plays in social life here, and says it’s hard to find alcohol-free activities after work. He spends weekends casting for Tiger Fish on the Cahora Bassa Dam or driving to Malawi to escape Tete’s dusty heat. Amanda and Brendan McConnell moved to Tete from Zimbabwe in 2009 to set up their company, CLM Transport. Their move was not initially coal related. Brendan had identified Tete as an ideal transport hub from which to service Mozambique Leaf Tobacco. Nonetheless, the coal tsunami has been good for business, with the result that they have settled in for the long haul and are building a beautiful home on the Zambezi River. On living in Tete, Brendan remarks, “Everything we need is here. It’s a fantastic life for us.” On the downside, they find Tete expensive and what goods they can buy are often shoddy due to the lack of competition for the flood of inferior Chinese imports. Like Alla, they cite the language barrier as a stumbling block in business and social life; but it is Mozambique’s infamous bureaucracy that can be most problematic. Brendan advises newcomers to make the effort to understand the system. “Most officials will try to help. They are adjusting their attitudes and want to help,” he says. He relies on Associação de Comércio e Indústria (ACIS), a local business consultancy and advisory service, which he says
‘Hot’ and ‘hell’ are the two words most used to describe the town
has proved invaluable to settling here.
Among the more colourful arrivals was the intrepid South African, Debbie Killoran, who sailed upriver in a dhow, liked what she saw and decided to stay. Killoran and her friend Jan de Kock sailed 1600 km down the coast from Vilanculos and up the Zambezi River and threw anchor when they reached Tete. Killoran’s canny foresight led her to build the beautiful and aptly named Café Del Rio restaurant on the riverbank overlooking the town. In 2011 she handed the business over to her daughter Nicky, who concedes that a wider selection of wines, sushi and clean (or clean-ish) water would make things easier, yet adds, “It’s a tough place but there is opportunity. You have to be positive and enthusiastic.” Undoubtedly, the diggers and frontiersmen of old would spit a wad of tobacco into the dust and guffaw at the so-called difficulties faced by today’s Tete pioneers given the technological, industrial and social advances of the modern era. Even so, life in Tete has a way of calling forth innovative strength in its new inhabitants and they are proving themselves as gungho and resourceful as earlier African pioneers in their quest to help make Mozambique’s potential a reality.
HAVING QUALIFIED AS A CONSERVATION FIELD GUIDE JOHAN LANDED A JOB AS A LEARNER NATURE CONSERVATION OFFICER IN MBOMBELA IN 1998. ‘THE PROBLEM WAS THAT THERE HAD NEVER BEEN THIS KIND OF JOB BEFORE AND THERE WAS NO ONE TO MENTOR ME SO I HAD TO WRITE MY OWN JOB DESCRIPTION’
WILDLIFE GEMS IN NELSPRUIT Steiltes Reserve The entrance is in Melk St. in Steiltes (opposite No 38). The reserve has a 3km walking trail, a small river and some lovely picnic sites. This is a birders’ paradise (keep an eye out for Crowned Eagles) and is home to other small wildlife. Nelspruit Nature Reserve The 139-hectare reserve has an excellent walking trail and a small function venue which can be used with permission from Johan. The entrance is in Impala Road in Sonheuwel. Lowveld Botanical Gardens Look for the main entrance off White River Road. Shaped by the Crocodile and Nels Rivers, the garden offers beautiful walks and spectacular waterfalls which can be viewed at the Cascades and the Nels viewpoints. Take a picnic or enjoy the onsite refreshment facilities.
Johan with snake expert Chris Hobkirk
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Eco Walking Trails Qualified nature conservationist Lood Wentzel conducts informative guided walks through the Nelspruit’s small urban reserves. Info: 078 225 9260 or email@example.com
!"#$%& PAY Pick up and release a porcupine, rescue a snake from a swimming pool and do a python demonstration at a nursery school – and all before lunch. It sounds like a wild ride but for Johan Louw, Nature Conservation Officer for Mbombela Local Municipality, it’s all in a day’s work. Sue Adams spent a day as his sidekick Photos: Sue Adams
he day starts before there’s time for so much as a cup of coffee when Johan gets a call from a householder saying a cage staked out in their garden to catch a clivia-eating culprit is now occupied by a very indignant porcupine. We rush from the Mbombela offices to retrieve the bristling fellow and release him on a private nature reserve outside Nelspruit where porcupines are free to eat bulbs to their heart’s content. As I watch him shuffle away into the long grass shaded by Umbrella Thorn Acacias it feels good to know that he is where he should be; safe from traffic, dogs and irate gardeners. Johan has caught and released twelve porcupines from urban gardens since January. While he feels they have a right to be there, the gardeners of Nelspruit are less indulgent when their plants no longer flourish. As the morning progresses, he fields a call from a panicky home owner. She has a snake in her swimming pool. She’s certain it’s a Black Mamba. At the house we discover the reptile is not the enormous monster I imagined; the pool is empty and a desperate frog is hopping for its life pursued by a small snake. Despite the absence of high drama, Johan is particularly excited. The snake is hard to identify and we take it to Chris Hobkirk, the resident snake expert at the Mpumalanga Parks Board. Johan and Chris become quite animated as they identify it as a rare Black File Snake. We are surrounded by buckets and cages containing deadly Puff Adders and Black Mambas. Chris is running a microchipping project to monitor the movement of Black Mambas around the area. As we leave he casually hands a bucket to Johan and asks him to release the Mamba it contains “somewhere outside Nelspruit.”
We make for the Kaapsehoop hills to do so. The snake disappears swiftly into the bush and Johan shares a handy snakehandling tip. “Don’t release a snake near your car. It will make for the closest protection and go straight under your vehicle.” I assure him that the next time I release a Mamba I’ll be sure to remember this. Our next stop is to take an African Rock Python to a nursery school where Johan is giving a talk on snakes. Ten excited preschoolers sit neatly in a row until Johan brings out the two metre long python. Chaos erupts. Half the children run towards the snake and the other half scream in horror. Johan calms them down and by the time the mums arrive their little ones know all about snakes. The python show is followed by a stint overseeing the spraying of alien vegetation. While we drive to the sites, he describes some of the animal encounters he has had. There was the time he was called in by a house-sitter to catch a snake under a bed only to find it was a fake snake put there by the owners. Another day he captured a Mamba in a garden tree before realising the ladder he’d used was too short to get him down. He has had to catch an entire family of Banded Mongooses that were eating factory workers’ lunches and a troop of Vervet Monkeys that had to be relocated because residents complained about theft from domestic fruit bowls. When I first asked Johan if I could go to work with him for a day, he was reluctant, saying his job was too uninteresting for anyone to want to read about. Now he acknowledges, “Each day is different. It’s never boring.” Johan Louw (Mbombela Nature Conservation): 072 299 8455
LEON KLUGE South Africaâ€™s Rebel Gardener, is a born and bred Lowvelder whose winning designs challenge the mores of traditional gardening through the use of indigenous plants, hard landscaping and vertical frameworks. He has joined forces with Lowveld Living to bring fresh perspective to the way we garden.
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!"#$%&'()" was agog at the vibrant plant life along Lowveld roads at this time of year. Foliage bursting with flowers and seeds begged him to slow down and take in their splendor - much to the ire of fellow motorists
y mistake was choosing a Friday afternoon to go vergesighting. But, ever the rebel, I snapped on my hazard lights and braved the onslaught of irate hooting from other drivers so that I could look closely at the plants growing on the roadsides around Nelspruit. One that stood out, and which is familiar to most Lowvelders thanks to its sweet early evening scent, was the flower of the Clematis Brachiata vine. This is our only indigenous Clematis; a hardy vigorous climber that gives us a shower of scented, creamto-yellow blossoms as winter approaches. Clematis ranks as one of the gardening world’s best-loved creepers. Commercial hybrids are often used in northern hemisphere landscapes, but they don’t do well in the hot, humid Lowveld. Our local variety thrives here. It can be seen growing wild on the side of the road and is a most rewarding plant for Lowveld gardens. At the beginning of winter another family of plants was on full display. The humble grass family is the height of fashion in garden design at the moment. All the big gardening shows around the world use grass en masse - and for good reason. Grasses are hardy, colorful, attract insects and birdlife, look wonderful in a vase and
grow like lightening. Keep your eyes peeled when driving, as the Lowveld has a collection of wild grass species that would be the envy of landscapers elsewhere in the world. The most spectacular of all must be Stibirus Alopecuroides. This show-off has a hairy silver leaf that grabs and holds dew to create a carpet of crystal in the early morning. As if that isn’t enough, it also has the most perfect bunny tail of dark purple florescence popping out from among silver leaves that sway gently in the breeze from December to May. Local verges are also home to the striking, indigenous Anemone Transvaalensis. This beauty makes a mist of white flowers that gives gardens a soft, meadowy look when used among masses of ornamental grasses. It’s the perfect indigenous substitute for the exotic Gaura, which tends to take over if left to roam free. The strips alongside our highways are frequently better looking than our gardens because they consist of plants that don’t need pesticides, high maintenance or fuss to make them flourish. They simply grow; carefree and abundant. We could all take time to slow down while driving and look more closely at what the Lowveld’s indigenous species have to offer our gardens.
!"#$%&' pursuits Lynda wears white peasant blouse, R350, Old Khaki; star scarf, R60, Old Khaki; teal leggings, R320, Poetry; gold wellies, R1099, Poetry Angelo wears blue puffer body warmer, R599, Old Khaki; blue check shirt, R350, Cape Union Mart; zipoff cargo pants, R425, Cape Union Mart.
Don your most flattering winter woollies and brave the outdoor chill for some downtime with a difference
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lowveldleisure Lynda wears blue chunky knit jersey R450; rust cigarette jeans, R399, both Old Khaki; Angelo wears blue landscape T-shirt, R225; Melton duffel coat, R999, both Old Khaki; stone chinos, R399, Old Khaki; quilt, R699, Poetry; picnic basket, stylist’s own.
HARNESS YOUR INNER COWBOY, HAZYVIEW
TAKING ON THE TIGER FISH, KOMATIPOORT
Demure horse rides are a dime a dozen at most Lowveld lodges so why not opt for a pony ride with a purpose? Horse Whispers Guided Horse Trails and Safaris offers something unique – a guided cattle drive with the object of taking a herd of cattle to water. This might bring to mind Billy Crystal in the movie City Slickers but luckily the Horse Whispers cattle drive is far more civilised. “We are located on a 2 000 hectare bushveld property,” explains Marina Visser of Horse Whispers, where they tailor-make trails according to the number of people and level of expertise. Contrary to what you may think, anyone can do the cattle drive, including children, since two guides accompany the group and the horses are used to having novices on board. The pace is guaranteed to be slow because running the fat off the cattle is far from ideal. The land is owned by the Sandford Trust, and the cattle belong to its beneficiaries. According to Marina, the reserve is a fine example of a successful land claim property since the community benefits from the operation both in terms of income and empowerment. She actively encourages children to spend time on the property learning about the horses, and is in the process of implementing a Horse Trail Guide qualification. The route is an amble through mountain scenery and indigenous bushveld threaded with streams and home to a plethora of indigenous bird species. Riders can cool off with a dip in a mountain pool at the end. If horses aren’t your thing, you could always head off on a mountain bike trail or challenging trail run when the rest of the family saddles up. Info : Marina Visser 084 418 0079/073 410 1314 www.horsewhispers.co.za
Most tourists head to this neck of the woods to enjoy a spot of docile trout fishing but for those in search of something less conventional, Craig McLean is the go-to guy who can help fisher folk nab a noble bass or the far more challenging tiger fish. “The reason people target these two species is because they’re regarded as fresh water game fish and can be caught on artificial lures,” explains Craig. “The tiger fish is an especially sought after species because of its speed and power.” In addition, both species can be caught on fly, which broadens the fishing options. “Komatipoort is one of the only legal places to target tiger fish as all other rivers are situated in the Kruger National Park,” explains Craig. So while the pond is not that big, so to speak, Komatipoort also offers bream and trophy bass. Craig suggests beginners should contact a guide ahead of time to find out what equipment will be best at that particular time of year. Essential equipment for tiger fishing includes a medium-to-heavy seven-foot rod for throwing lures such as top water, spoons and crank baits. While a top of the range rod and reel can cost up to R6000, good entry-level sets cost around R800. Inexperienced fishermen or those who have not previously targeted these two species will save themselves a great deal of trouble by booking a guide and learning the art from a pro. Craig insists this saves money in the long run by avoiding common mistakes like purchasing the wrong equipment or fishing in the wrong areas. Info: Craig McLean 0791866423 www.nkomazisafaris.co.za
Lynda wears rust cigarette jeans, R399, Old Khaki; white peasant blouse, R350, Old Khaki; grey and check cardigan, R499, Old Khaki, flower beanie, R99, Poetry; red wellies, stylistâ€™s own. Angelo wears white v-neck T-shirt, R150, Old Khaki; striped pullover, R350, Cape Union Mart; stone chinos, R399, Old Khaki, Polo leather and canvas boots, R1990, Nevills; African continent framed print, R399, Loads of Living. 38!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
SHOTGUN SHOWDOWN, DULLSTROOM Ah, yes! The exhilarating thunder of shotgun blasts echoing through wintery hills is one of the traditional highlights of country sports. Fortunately there is a way to feel the thrill without shedding blood. Clay pigeon shooting, or rather clay target shooting since the target can take many forms, is the solution for an itchy trigger finger. Although it has the distinct feel of having roots in European nobility, it in fact originated near Andower in the US state of Massachusetts, says Frank Gaweda, a partner at Field and Stream Clay Pigeon Shooting Club near Dullstroom. In the early 1900’s, retired businessman Charles E. Davies came up with a practical solution to correct his shooting technique during the hunting off-season. Davies “created a 12 station set up, just like a clock, but legend has it that half the circle had to be abandoned when his neighbour began raising chickens, to avoid the lead shot landing on them and the ground.” The sport has since evolved and today usually comprises 25 shots per shotist. The guns are over and under double barrel shotguns with 30 inch barrels that take 12 gauge cartridges where the load varies from 24 to 28 and 32 grams, or 7, 5 and 9 lead ball shot. A visit to the range at Field and Stream, designed and built by Frank himself, is all that’s needed to stock up on the required kit, a full safety briefing and the chance to see how it’s done by the pros. Together with his partner, Greg Williams, Frank operates the only registered Clay Target Shooting Association of South Africa (CTSASA) range in Mpumalanga. Located on the Tonteldoos Road outside Dullstroom the range “is equipped with the latest automated, remote controlled and manual claydelivery machines which offer a challenging, all round experience of shooting targets emulating different bird prey and ground animals, at different speeds and positions, either singly, or as double targets,” explains Frank. “All safety equipment is provided, and in addition to the existing weaponry, we now stock a lighter 20 gauge gun to provide for smaller built juniors and petite frames.” The only limitation for this sport is that one must be physically able to hold and shoot a shotgun safely. Info: Greg Williams 083 443 4567 firstname.lastname@example.org, or Frank Gaweda 082 781 0242 email@example.com
TAKING AIM WITH ARROWS, NELSPRUIT One of the oldest sports in the world, archery has recently enjoyed a global revival thanks to pop culture fictional characters like Katniss Everdeen in The Hunger Games novels, but the sport has always had more than a hint of heroism and romance to it, starting with Cupid, followed by Robin Hood and culminating with Legolas in Lord of the Rings. Andre van Tonder of the Nelspruit Archery Club explains that in modern archery “the ultimate object is to consistently hit a fairly small spot on a target. There are four main archery disciplines in South Africa; the South African Indoor and Field Archery Association (SANIFAA), the SA Archery Association (SANAA), African Bowhunters Organisation (ABO) and SA Bowhunters Association (SABA), each with their own rules and ultimate objectives.” Almost anyone can participate because equipment is selected specifically for the individual, and luckily for Lowvelders, it’s readily available here. At the most basic level the requirements are a bow and a set of matched arrows but “most archers use a bow, set of arrows, a sight and trigger mechanism to compete,” says Andre. “You can get very basic equipment in the region of about R2000 all the way to equipment that may cost over R35000.” In terms of safety, Andre explains that, other than sun block, you don’t need any special clothing or safety gear. Info: Roberto van Leeuwen, Nelspruit Archery Club, 074 175 3701 Archer’s Tech (shop and archery range) contact Chris 072 273 9750 or 071 567 6470
For all your interior decor needs: colour coodination, curtaining, blinds, rebated rods, upholstery, soft furnishings etc. 083 701 3604
Angelo wears red check shirt, R325, Old Khaki; cowboy hat, R199, Cape Union Mart; jeans, modelâ€™s own. Lynda wears long sleeve cable knit dress, R450, Poetry; straw hat, R75, Old Khaki. 40!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
lowveldleisure Lynda wears cerise cardigan, R350; quilted puffer jacket, R499; taupe skirt, R399, Broques, R599, Poetry; Angelo wears Polo college cardigan, R1099, Nevills; white V-neck T-shirt, R150, Old Khaki; Polo chinos, R799, Nevills.
Make-up: Hantie Henn, 072-725-6992, or email pamperlangskintherapy@ gmail.com Models: Lynda Bakker, and Angelo Piccoto Photos: Sven Musica Styling: Melanie ReederPowell Stockists: Poetry, I’langa Mall, 013742-2282 Old Khaki, I’langa Mall, 013-742-2280 Cape Union Mart, I’langa Mall, 013-742-2281 Loads of Living, Riverside Mall, 013-757-0936 Nevills, Riverside Mall, 013-757-1203
To the owners, building Pontao Merapi started with their dream of recreating idyllic childhood holidays in a Mozambique that was once virtually untouched by development. To their architect, Robin McIntosh, it was among his most daunting undertakings Words: Bev Tucker Photos: Jennifer Wheatley
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aving grown up in the Lowveld, owner Zaskia Wilson had â€œthe most incredible childhood memoriesâ€? of holidays in nearby Mozambique. â€œIt was something we wanted to give to our children and share with friends,â€? she says. When land became available just off the coast of Vilanculos on the remote Bazaruto Archipelago, Zaskia and her husband Grenville engaged Robin McIntosh of Intersect Architects to build their paradise lodge. â€œIt was one of the most alluring sites I have worked on,â€? says McIntosh, but the project was as challenging as LWZDVEHDXWLIXO+HZDVIDFHGZLWKWKHWDVNRIĂ€QGLQJD design solution that would do justice to the incomparable setting and views while building on a severely sloping stand with enormous trees growing in awkward places on the site. 7KHVHWKUHHLQĂ XHQFHVWKHYLHZVWKHVORSHDQG WKHWUHHVEHFDPHWKHGHĂ€QLQJIDFWRUVLQWKHSODQQLQJ RIWKHKRXVH7KHĂ€QDOGHVLJQVD\V0F,QWRVKÂ´:DVWKH result of an exceptionally unique collaboration between the architect, an unusually involved client and later, the contractor. This project was an adventure rather than a conventional architectural appointment and based on the result I would not have had it any other way.â€? Everything about the build was logistically problematic. All the materials had to be sailed across the bay by dhow. Without the help of electricity the most basic tasks became onerous; even building stone had to be crushed by hand on site. There was no fresh water, cement was in short supply and glass was extremely expensive. â€œIt forced us to think differently,â€? says Zaskia. â€œWe researched East Coast African living to explore workable ideas.â€? The site is in a cyclone belt, which posed yet more problems and danger and caused prolonged delays. â€œAt one point we stalled building for nearly two years,â€? says Zaskia. â€œThen we met a builder who had been living in Mozambique for some years and found Robin who was familiar with the region. Suddenly we had the opportunity to work with people who knew the area and shared our vision for what we wanted to create, backed up by a passion for what they do, and everything became possible; the building grew and evolved with a energy of its own.â€? This part of the Mozambique coast is fairly unspoiled. Against the backdrop of the Indian ocean there are frequent sightings of dolphins, Leatherback turtles, whales and a wide variety of bird life, making for the creation of blissful memories for anyone lucky enough to spend time here. â€œItâ€™s the closest thing we can still get to paradise,â€? says Zaskia.
‘THE HOUSE IS A RICH MIXTURE OF CULTURES, TRADITIONS, DESIGN AND ORNAMENTATION THAT GIVES A TREMENDOUS SENSE OF ADVENTURE, ANCIENT TRADING AND SPICE ROUTES’
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For furnishing, the couple turned to Mark Valentine of Amatuli in Kramerville, Johannesburg, and to Phillip Eloff of EG Designs in White River, Mpumalanga. They looked to Africa’s East Coast Swahili style - this became the backbone of HYHU\WKLQJLQWKHKRXVHDVDQRGWRWKHWUDGHUVRIWKHSDVWZKRVRKHDYLO\LQÁXHQFHG this part of Africa www.lowveldlivingmagazine.com
‘ACCORDING TO LOCAL FOLKLORE, IF YOU’RE PURE OF HEART YOU MIGHT BE LUCKY ENOUGH TO SPOT A DUGONG’
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â€˜We were inspired by what we saw locals doing with their limited resources and got the architect to incorporate local elements into the building,â€™ says Zaskia. Mosquito gauze replaced glass; heavy wooden shutters and doors (protection against cyclones) were carved by village crafters
BUILDING ABROAD Logistics are one of the biggest challenges on a project of this nature. A build like this cannot be driven by remote control and will call for more than the usual amount of dedication and determination. • Find a contractor who knows the local conditions, has patience and is committed to your vision • Inform yourself about the weather conditions of your site, such as which directions wind and storms typically come from and what the sun patterns are, because these will inform the fundamental design • Know the limitations and the potential of local materials available on site and in the area • Plan the logistical movement of goods and materials carefully as transport costs are a big part of the budget when building on a remote site • Set up basic requirements like a clean water supply, solar power and internet connectivity before you start work on the build. Be circumspect about taking too much advice on these aspects because it will often differ and can be intended to undermine previous advice you may have received from competing service providers • Seek out craftsmen, suppliers and subcontractors who will share your unique vision rather than using standard contractors who don’t have the time and patience it will need. The Rastafarian woodcarver and a local artist who did the paint techniques were crucial members of the team when building Pontao Merapi Architect: Robin McIntosh, 082-804 9787 Builder: Kobus van der Berg, Natucon, 0025 884 261 3062 Décor and furnishing: Phillip Eloff, Eloff Gallery, 082 464 9688, www.eloffgallery.com. Mark Valentine, Amatuli, 011 440 5065, www.amatuli.co.za
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‘THE SIMPLICITY OF THE BUSH IS ALWAYS SUCH A PLEASURE AND THAT’S WHAT OUR HOME HERE REPRESENTS’
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!"#$%"&"'()"*)'+,) This is a house that reaches out into the surrounding bush yet pulls you in at the same time. As Dianne Tipping-Woods discovered, once there, you donâ€™t want to leave
bush Photos: Andie Rodwell
‘THE HARD LANDSCAPING IS REALLY IMPORTANT BECAUSE A HOUSE SHOULD SELL ITSELF WITHOUT ITS FINISHES,’ SAYS VICTOR. THE BUILDING HAS BEEN ALLOWED TO SPEAK WITH A MIX OF INTERIOR TEXTURES THAT INCLUDE RAW CONCRETE AND FACEBRICK ELEMENTS THAT REVEAL ITS STRUCTURE
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e didn’t want a mission of a house,” says Victor Blunden, as he navigates the dirt roads of Khaya Ndlovu Wildlife, so different to the Johannesburg roads he is used to. A herd of giraffe with several young take a break from browsing to watch us pass on our approach to the thatch holiday home Victor and his partner built in 2011. The entrance to the house is a gentle curve, walled on one side and open on the other, which steers you into its heart; the large open plan living area. An exposed concrete shutter slab, “one of the hardest parts of the build,” according to Mathewson Group Construction, visually divides the living area from the kitchen and dining room, which flow out onto an expansive deck that seems to dissolve into the river below. Sipping Nespresso as Victor and his partner show us their photographs of a cheetah kill outside one of the guest bedrooms it’s easy to understand how this home in Hoedspruit holds the attention of its owners, whose business interests take them all over the world. There are no neighbours and the silence is interrupted only by sounds of the bush or the chatter of friends and family who frequently come to stay. Victor is a natural host; his years of experience in international travel mean he’s keenly aware of the comfort of his guests, while at the same time completely relaxed and easy-going. The smell of fresh ciabatta wafts from the state-of-the-art Siemens oven. It is baking on a tray Victor inherited from his grandmother. Donna Hay’s cook book Seasons lies open on the Ceasarstone counter.
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innovative • individual • inspiring
! "# $ % " ! & ' $ ( ) * + ( )+#$%),%( For exclusive, innovative, individual and inspiring interiors we offer: • Complete interior design service for homes, hotels, lodges, beach KRXVHV RIÀFHV • Procurement • Extensive range of fabric samples • For all custom made curtaining, blinds, upholstery etc. The property has been designed with easy entertaining in mind. The kitchen, finished in organic bamboo, opens out onto the deck, which accommodates a large dining area. Comfortable chairs with books and binoculars to hand overlook the rim-flow pool and a lowered deck with a large central fire pit. “The exterior areas are almost equal to the area of the house itself,” says Jonker, explaining that the final build was a 265m2 house with 214m2 of decking and exterior space, ideal for an outdoor lifestyle. A tour of the interior reveals the house’s simple logic and clean lines. The whole plan was conceptualised as four rectilinear shapes with duo-pitched roofs housing different accommodation clusters connected by secondary flat-roofed elements. “By doing this, the visual impact of the building on the surroundings was reduced and we were able to elevate the floor level to give great views over the river and stay within the estate rules,” explains Jonker. This is the fourth house Victor and his partner have built together and their second in Hoedspruit. “We learnt a lot of lessons the first time round,” he says. Termite-prone wooden window frames have been replaced with aluminium and the stacking doors that open onto the patio have a slight lip to prevent rainwater running into the house. In addition, all the en suite rooms have outdoor showers and the master bedroom features an outside bath - luxuries that make the most of the views, the privacy and the climate.
38 Murray Street | Nelspruit tel +27 13 753 2095
Architect: LouiĂ&#x;s Jonker 082 332 9164 firstname.lastname@example.org Contractor: Mathewson Group Construction 082 601 4071 www.mathewsongroup.co.za
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The building has no roof intersections. This reduces the risk of rot occurring in roof valleys, which is particulalry important in the case of thatched roofs. The master bedroom at the northern end of the house maximises views to the east. To the south of the living areas the two guest rooms face the river, with shaded cover on the eastern side of the house and bathrooms to the west to mitigate the effects of the sun. “This is a refuge, an escape from the city. At the same time we wanted to move away from a clunky, dated bush style, but still have the house speak to its environment,” Victor explains. To articulate this, the décor has been kept natural and soothing. Customdesigned chocolate leather couches, wooden pieces collected on their travels, soft furnishing in creams, shades of green and amber combine comfortably with stainless steel, glass and hard perspex. Paintings by local artist Warren Cary mingle comfortably with abstract works by JP Meyer and metal cut-outs from Mad Cows, a décor shop in Hoedspruit. Large windows in every room frame the landscape, let in a lot of light and allow interplay between the exterior and the interior. The end result is an interior that is earthy yet modern, echoing the house’s architectural language, which combines flowing lines generated out of the landscape with strong internal geometry. “Nothing is ornamented or pretends to be something it is not,” says Victor. As the sun sets to the calls of Crowned Lapwings and jackal, Victor produces a bottle of chilled Champagne to accompany the fresh ciabatta and cheese board he has prepared. The honesty and legibility in the structure is mirrored in the frank, unpretentious and very warm welcome of its owners, world travellers who choose to call this part of the world home. After all, who could bear to leave?
‘MOST OF THE CLUES FOR THE DESIGN COME FROM THE CONTEXT, TREES ON THE SITE AND THE NORTH SOUTH ORIENTED RIVERBED FLANKING THE EASTERN BOUNDARY OF THE STAND, WHICH CONSTANTLY DRAWS THE EYE,’ SAYS ARCHITECT LOUIS JONKER 58!!!"#$%&"'!"(%()*!+ ISSUE 39
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lowveldscene Attorneys Julie Brosens and Joanne Cochrane held a James Bond themed opening of their newly-formed, women’s run firm, Brosens Cochrane Attorneys. The opening received an extremely warm reception from the Who’s Who of the Nelspruit social scene. The James Bond theme was derived from the firm’s telephone number (013) 007 0162, and the ladies went all out to make the opening an occasion worthy of hosting the world’s most famous secret agent.
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5 1. Jetje Japhet & Joy Gulle 2. Tiffany MacKay 3. Julie Brosens & Jen Coetzee 4. Julie Brosens, Peet Rabie, Kim Pascoe and Joanne Cochrane 5. Joe Izeboud & Wimpie De Beer 6. Joy Gulle, Miles Japhet, Greg Gulle, Jetje Japhet and Louis van der Merwe 7. Jane De Jager 8. Nandi Duvenage, Keith Lodewick & Maurice Lodewick
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Everyone who was anyone was at the opening of the Lowveldâ€™s newest, coolest cocktail venue, the Manhattan Project, in the Bagdad Centre in White River. The sophisticated dĂŠcor is a far cry from the familiar bushveld look. Sexy lighting, velvety flocked wallpaper, stainless steel, gleaming chrome, a Manhattan skyline and mirrors aplenty give the venue an up-market urban appeal.
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1. Anneke Coetzer, Llewellyn and Elaine Taylor 2. Sam and David Pott 3. Ryan Tate and Roger Mortlock 4. Jonny Robinson, Nicholas Hully-Miller, Roger Mortlock and Lloyd Dillan 5. Thulani and Paul Warrener 6. Lea Glass, Mark Rader and Mirelle Jacobs 7. Mark Marais and DJ McFadden 8. Clive Morgan and Max Burgers 9. Nicole Merryweather, Mardo Van Rooyen, Vicki Vorster, Melanie Cooper and Chantelle van Meulen 10. Thulani Warrener 11. Charlotte Senini and Roger Mortlock 12. Vicki Vosler and Tom Fry 13. Greg Bray and Nasima Bhayat 14. Sean McKerr 15. Sean Wright, Jonny Robinson and Trevor Lagerwey 16 . Willie Barnard and Garian Hayward
Safari guide, wildlife photographer and filmmaker, Lex Hes, gave Wessa members tips on how to get the best lion photographs. Using a slide show of his own work - and drawing on his extensive knowledge of wildlife behaviour - he touched on topics such as the best time of day to photograph lions and how to approach them to set up winning shots. His talk included a brief but disturbing presentation on the causes of the decreasing wild lion population in Africa, which has plummeted from about 400 000 in the 50â€™s to barely 35 000 today.
6 1. Lynn and Lex Hes 2. Metta Rosack and Tony Haig 3. Jenny Pote and Harry Van der Linde 4. Nick Adams and Tiffany McKay 5. Ricky Pott, Pat Donaldson, Lex Hes and Phillip Whitfield 6. Anthony Pote 7. Jess Ney and Marc Cronje
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!"#$%!&'()#'love Samkela Stamper’s witty one-woman show It Ain’t Nothing But Love, had the audience laughing and weeping at the Barnyard Theatre in Casterbridge, White River. Stamper is the author of Not For All The Apples, Peanut Butter and Jam, which she presented at the Edinburgh Literary Festival in 2012; and is a poet and actress whose work opens a window into the hearts and minds of South Africa’s hip, young intelligentsia.
3 1. Nikki Paterson and David Deall 2. Lungu Mdaka and Cyril Lekgau 3. Thandeka Shiba and Lungile Mdluli - audience participation on stage during the show 4. Samkela Stamper, Rachel and Daniel Gabler 5. Thandeka Shiba and Gift Ndlovu
marketplace D E C O R L I F E S T Y L E B E A U T Y H O M E G A R D E N F O O D A R T S T Y L E T R AV E L
For all your Wildlife Property needs
Engel & V枚lkers 路 Lowveld Tel. +27(0)15 793 0793 www.engelvoelkers.com/za/hoedspruit
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marketplace D E C O R L I F E S T Y L E B E A U T Y H O M E G A R D E N F O O D A R T S T Y L E T R AV E L
because the first chapter should be poetry
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Dr Karen Kromhout and Dr Auke Van der Meulen TANDARTSE â€“ DENTAL SURGEONS Shop G4-5 , Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre White River
Tue-Fri 08h30â€“16h30 Tel: 013 751 3144 email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org
!"#$%&'$"()% !*'$$+,+â€˘No compression â€˘No radiation â€˘Safe in pregnancy â€˘Safe with implants Thermal Health Centre - Nelspruit Russmed Medical Centre - 18 Russell Street Booking essential: 073.665.4956 www.thermologyonline.org | email@example.com
restaurantguide R E S TA U R A N T S P O S H N O S H P U B G R U B FA S T F O O D C O F F E E S H O P S E AT E R I E S
Tel: +27 (0) 13 737 6957 Shop 1, Perryâ€™s Bridge Trading Post firstname.lastname@example.org www.kukasoup.co.za
Tel: 013 751 1947 email@example.com www.mag-nolia.co.za
Contact Audrey: 072 726 4660 firstname.lastname@example.org
restaurantguide R E S TA U R A N T S P O S H N O S H P U B G R U B FA S T F O O D C O F F E E S H O P S E AT E R I E S DULLSTROOM Adega 013 254 0605 Authentic Portuguese Seafood Restaurant , all our dishes are made from scratch when ordered. Have won the best Portuguese restaurant award in the Best of Joburg for five consecutive years. All our recipes are unique. ‘We were voted by the public as being the best.’
well known English pub.
Anvil Alehouse & Brew Pub 073 168 6603 We specialise in hand crafted European style beers, accompanied by traditional German sausages presented on a wooden platter with locally made cheese, mustard and relishes.
Legendz Café 013 254 0413
Bergen Cheese & Wine Tasting Room 013 254 0084 Critchley Hackle Lodge 013 254 0149 The Duck and Trout Restaurant 013 254 0047 Dullstrooms authentic restaurant & pub. Since 1994. Home of The Duck and Cherry Pie, Traditional Wood-Burning Pizza Oven, All Day Breakfast, Roaring Log Fires, Kiddies Playground, 2 Big Screens and multiple TV’s for live sporting events
Rose Cottage 013 254 0218
Victorian Tea Garden 013 712 4985
Fernando’s Hideaway Stonecutters Lodge 072 151 2129 013 235 4225
Wimpy 013 712 6252
Fib’s Restaurant & Pizzeria 013 254 0059
ELANDS VALLEY Bergwater Lodge 013 257 7081
Harrie’s Pancakes 013 254 0801 Kloppenheim (Machadodorp) 013 256 9001
Mayfly Restaurant & Cocktail Lounge 013 254 0332 / 084 619 4946 Situated on the main road in Dullstroom, is a modern and contemporary restaurant with great food and excellent service. It is fresh and clean with warm fires. Sporting events are televised and there is plenty of parking. Milly’s Trout 013 254 0310 Mrs Simpson 013 254 0088 Old Transvaal Inn – Restaurant 013 254 0550 Pickles & Things 013 254 0115 Plat du Jour 072 320 5370
Poacher Restaurant Dullstroom Inn 013 254 0108 013 254 0071 email@example.com The Dullstroom Inn’s The Poacher serves history can be traced hearty meals ranging back to 1912 and from slow cooked was Mpumalanga’s oxtail to beef curry and best kept secret for pot pies. decades until the first The restaurant sources ever Sunday Times much of its produce ‘Finders Keepers’ from local farmers. prize of a million rand was hidden in the
Wild and Wooly 013 254 0202 Wild about Whisky 013 254 0066 Walkerson’s Hotel 013 253 7000
GRASKOP Berlyn Peacock Tavern 013 767 1085
WAT E R VA L BOVEN Highway Man 013 256 9161
Canimambo 013 767 1868
Stone Circle Bistro 013 257 0759 Travellers Coffee Shop 013 257 0444 Shamrock Arms 013 257 0888 BARBERTON Co-co Pan Café & Pub 013 712 2653 Nestled beneath the Makhondjwa Mountains. Debonairs Pizza 013 712 6000
Graskop Pancakes 013 767 1366 Harrie’s Pancakes 013 767 1273 Koweni’s Lookout Restaurant 013 767 1760 Rozenkavalier Restaurant 013 767 1114 Tasties 013 767 1758 The Loco Pub & Coachman Grill 013 767 1961
The Edge Pub Diggers Retreat Hotel 082 412 7295 013 719 9681 HAZYVIEW KFC Blue Mountain Lodge 013 712 3720 013 737 8446 Pappa’s Kitchen 013 712 4645 Phoenix Hotel 013 712 4211 Pioneers 073 124 9555
Bush Burgers & Takeaways 013 737 6668 Casa Do Sol Restaurant 013 737 8111
Simply The Best 013 712 2028
Corner Shop Perry’s Bridge 013 737 6664
Something Different 013 712 3124
Galito’s 013 737 7776
Valegro’s 013 712 2931
Big Five 013 737 8191
Hippo Hollow Restaurant 013 737 6624
Kalimambo 015 793 0079 Sleepers 015 793 1014
Jungle Café 013 737 7298
The Hat & Creek 015 793 1135
Kuka 013 737 6957
Three Bridges Restaurant and Pub 079 912 9416
Le Pattissier 083 647 9876 Nabana Restaurant 013 737 6954 / 0832685395
Upperdeck 082 546 9969 Safari Club 082 789 2608
The Hotel Numbi (Olive & Vine) 013 737 7301
Wildebeest Lapa 015 795 5748
Papa’s Pizzeria 013 737 7427
KAAPSCHE HOOP Bohemian Groove Cafe Tel 013 734 4545 Cell 076 764 7625
Perry’s Bridge Brewery 013 737 7767 Pioneers Butcher & Grill 013 737 7397
Koek ‘n Pan Restaurant 013 734 4580
Rissington Inn & Restaurant 013 737 7700
Silver Mist Country Inn 013 734 4429
Steers 1 Main Street 013 737 7200 Summerfields Kitchen 013 737 6500
K O M AT I P O O R T Jackalberry Coffee Shop 013 793 8197
Lion & Leopard Umbhaba Restaurant 013 793 7034 013 737 7636 Parkview Restaurant Wimpy 013 793 7708 013 737 6490 Phumula Kruger HOEDSPRUIT Restaurant Ambri Africa 013 792 4215 015 795 5107 Tambarina Blyde Haven Restaurant Restaurant 013 793 7057 072 183 4396 LY D E N B U R G Cala la Pasta Bistro @ 59 015 793 0452 013 235 2579 Eden Tea Garden 073 403 8936
Chicken Licken 013 235 2646
Josmac’s Restaurant 015 793 2951
De Ark Restaurant 013 235 1125
restaurantguide R E S TA U R A N T S P O S H N O S H P U B G R U B FA S T F O O D C O F F E E S H O P S E AT E R I E S Deco’s Restaurant 013 235 1145
The Heads – Barcelos 013 235 1549
Marula Boma 013 790 1467
Hops Hollow Brewery & Pub 013 235 8910
The Trout Inn 013 235 1828
Ingwenya Parkview Restaurant 013 793 7708
Kenchington’s Tea Room 013 235 4482 KFC 013 235 4853 Lallie se Plaaskombuis 083 375 7323 Laske Nakke Restaurant 013 235 2886 Lerami Spur 013 235 1707 Lions Rock 013 235 4245 Ocean Basket 013 235 3202 Okus 013 235 4187 Scooters 013 235 4023 St Pies 013 235 1529
Vroutjie Coffee Shop 013 235 3016 Wimpy 013 235 3618 MALELANE Chicago Restaurant 013 790 1260 Duck ‘n Dive Saloon Pub ‘n Grub 013 790 1258 Pub & Restaurant – delicious pizzas freshly made to order - wood burning oven. Open 11am ‘till late Monday to Saturday Hamiltons 013 790 3421 Impala Restaurant 013 790 0140 Koos se Kroeg Kombuis 076 041 8649 Malalane Gate Restaurant 013 790 0470
013.790.3421 | firstname.lastname@example.org
Riverside Farm, Malelane Gate Road, next to Leopard Creek
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Steers 013 790 1551 NELSPRUIT At Nature’s Gate 013 755 6173 Adega Restaurant 013 74 13978 Arkansas Spur Steak Ranch 013 745 8043 Bizie Ladies Restaurant 013 752 8518 Brewers Feast 013 741 4674
Chez Vincent Restaurant 013 744 1146 Costa do Sol Restaurant 013 752 6382 Debonairs Express Pizza 013 752 4960 Detroit Spur 013 757 0330 Europa Café 013 757 0961 Explorers Restaurant 013 757 4300 FishAways 013 752 4596 Food Fundi 013 755 1091
Galito’s Brown Street Bundu Country Lodge 013 752 5371 & Grill 013 758 1221 Greek Kouzina 013 741 5371 Capello 013 757 0560 John Dorys Fish & Grill Cappuccino’s 013 757 0972 013 742 2187 Cicada Jock & Java 013 741 1751 Restaurant 013 755 4970
Kia Ora Restaurant 013 747 2128
Nelspruit Fish & Chips 013 752 6421
Kuzuri Restaurant 013 757 0907
News Café 013 752 7680
Legends Café and Bar Ocean Basket 013 754 6552 013 752 7193 Marlin Pub & Grill 071 111 1370 marlinpubandgrill@ gmail.com Mediterranean Seafood Restaurant Riverside Mall 013 757 0170 Mediterranean Seafood Restaurant Ilanga Mall 013 742 2235 Montanas Garden Pavilion 013 741 3348 Mugg & Bean Riverside Mall 013 757 1036 Mugg & Bean Crossing 013 752 2250 Mugg & Bean Ilanga Mall 013 742 2206
O’Hagans Pub 013 741 3580 Orange 013 744 9507 Papa’s Kitchen 013 755 1660 Something Fishy 013 741 1708 Spur Riverside Mall 013 757 0330 Squirrels Fun Food 013 752 5114 St Elmo’s Wood fired Pizza 013 755 1650 Steers 013 752 8165 Stoep 013 741 2551 The Pub 013 755 4861
restaurantguide R E S TA U R A N T S P O S H N O S H P U B G R U B FA S T F O O D C O F F E E S H O P S E AT E R I E S Trattoria Stefano’s 013 744 9310 Wimpy Riverside Mall 013 757 1036 Wimpy Ferreira Street 013 752 3650 Wimpy Halls Gateway 013 752 4824
SABIE Country Kitchen Restaurant 013 764 1901 Jock Sabie Lodge Pub & Restaurant 013764 2178
Silver Spoon Restaurant (Mac Mac) 013 767 1039
Lone Creek Spur 013 764 3355
Tommy’s Pool Bar 013 764 2160
Merry Pebbles Restaurant 013 764 1502
Wild Fig Tree Restaurant & Pub 013 764 2239
Fez at Bagdad 013 750 1253 A relaxed, intimate, owner run restaurant situated 2kms outside White River. Famous for the Fez Burger, Fez Gnocchi, Moroccan Lamb Tagine, the Fez Seafood Platter and the best Sushi ever! Specially selected winelist, trendy beers and a stunning Whisky collection.
Wimpy 013 764 2281
Galito’s 013 750 1981
The Woodsman Restaurant 013 764 2015
Ganache Cafe 013 750 2102
Zest 013 742 2217
Misty Mountain 013 7643377 / P I L G R I M S R E S T 0733751817 Peach Tree & Diggers Situated on the Restaurant spectacular Long Tom 013 768 1100 Pass overlooking the Lowveld with the Pilgrims Pantry best country cooking Co-op in the region, Misty 013 768 1129 Mountain offers an extensive a la carte Stables menu. All dishes 083 454 4763 freshly made and vegetables supplied Scotts Café from our own organic 013 768 1061 veggie garden. Open breakfast, lunch and The Vine Restaurant dinner. Excellent food, 013 768 1080 great hospitality. Petena Pancakes 013 764 1541
Sabie Sports Bar & Pizza Den 013 764 1800
SCHOEMANS K LO O F Old Joe’s Kaia 013 733 3045 WHITE RIVER Alfresco 013 750 2808 Big Bear Spur 013 751 1419
Mahoi’s 082 788 5171
Twinz Burger & Ribs 013 751 1361
Oliver’s Restaurant 013 750 0479 / 082 328 8025 Spoil yourself with mouth-watering dishes from our a-la-carte menu complimented with the finest South African wines together with personalised and friendly service in a cosy atmosphere.
Wimpy 013 751 3161 Zannas 013 750 0469
Trattoria Stefano’s 013 750 0300
Green Door 072 321 7750 073 329 9238 Gumtreez 013 750 0334 Kokopelli Tapas bar & Steak house 013 750 0610 Lions Pub 013 750 1288
Brie Street Deli 083 678 8099 da Loose Mongoose 013 750 0539
Magnolia Restaurant 013 751 1947
!"#$"%&'(() COFFEE SHOP
cnr of Rissik and Bok Street, Komatipoort
Joelene Caldeira 013.793.8007 / 082.772.7133
SCRUMPTIOUS MEALS, DELTA COFFEE AND RELAXING ATMOSPHERE - THE GOOD LIFE!
!"#$%& move T
his article was inspired by a chance meeting I had with a farmer and his wife in the midst of the butterfly migration which was the talk of the town towards the end of the summer.
It was a Sunday morning and I was parked near the entrance to a farm off the R36 near Lydenburg listing birds for the SA Bird Atlas Project. The farm owners were setting off to church when they spotted me and stopped to chat, asking if I knew anything about the thousands of white butterflies spread over the landscape. “Is this a plague?” the farmer enquired, “will they destroy my crops?” He turned to his wife and suggested they skip church and start spraying insecticide before they lost everything. “There are so many moths (as he called them), they’ll eat my entire crop.” I explained that this would not happen because the insects were butterflies and we were privileged to witness a rare mass migration of the Brown-Veined White Belenois aurota. They are residents of the arid Savanna in the Northern Cape, Limpopo and North West Province, but when migrations occur in late summer these delicate beauties can be found much farther afield. Migration is triggered by a season of good rainfall. This leads to an abundant food supply, and in turn leads butterflies to produce far more offspring than normal. When the caterpillars
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hatch they have access to plentiful food, but by the time they reach adulthood food shortages drive them out of their prefered habitat in search of better pickings. They press north-east into higher rainfall areas in search of specific plants on which they will later lay their eggs to launch a new generation. Along the way hundreds are consumed by various predators and many die on car windscreens. Like Lemmings, they keep moving eastward until they reach the coast, fly out to sea and drown. My farmer friends were fascinated by this tale, but remained faintly sceptical about how safe their crops were from insect vandalism until I managed to reassure them that, like some humans, many organisms are fussy eaters. The Brown-Veined White butterfly feeds only on a few, quite specific, indigenous plants. As caterpillars they feed on Shepherd’s Tree, Bush Cherry and Caper Bush - nothing else. Adults in the butterfly stage will pause on migration to take in nectar for energy, but they cannot eat anything else because they have no mandibles and are therefore not equipped to munch their way through crops. There may be thousands of them, but they are completely harmless. I’m hopeful that my new-found farmer friends will pass on the good news and help end the horror of insecticides and the biological disasters they cause. Peter Lawson
Just like Alek Wek, Amarula is world famous, yet truly African at heart. From Africaâ€™s sub-Saharan plains where the unique marula trees grow freely, to the very hands that pick the exotic marula fruit once it has ripened, each aspect of its creation makes Amarula a true African Original.
Alek Wek Celebrity and Humanitarian
Published on May 20, 2013
Published on May 20, 2013
Mpumalanga’s classiest read focusing on the best places to eat, things to do, places to explore, moments to experience and lifestyle to enjo...