“The Year in Dining" by The San Diego Union-Tribune

12.19–12.25 THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE WEEKLY ENTERTAINMENT GUIDE

CHEF OF THE YEAR BRAD WISE OF TRUST, FORT OAK & RARE SOCIETY 8 RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

CARLSBAD’S JEUNE ET JOLIE 10

THE YEAR IN DINING Highs, lows and trends from an unforgettable 2019 PAGE 6

THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE | THURSDAY • DECEMBER 19, 2019

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side; Blue Point Coastal Cuisine in the Gaslamp Quarter; Route 29 in the Gaslamp Quarter; Isshido Ramen in Mira Mesa; Urge Gastropub and Whiskey Bank in Oceanside; Brothers Provisions in Rancho Bernardo; Pisco in Liberty Station and Carlsbad; The Barrel Room in Carmel Valley; Westroot Tavern in Carmel Valley; Smokeyard BBQ & Chop House in University City; Rimel’s Rotisserie in Cardiff; 52year-old Su Casa in La Jolla; The Wooden Spoon in Escondido; and nearly all of the Patio restaurants (see “scandal” item above). Still to come: the Red Fox Room

in University Heights is scheduled to close in January after more than 50 years in business. (Kragen)

New restaurants we loved in 2019 (honorable mention)

Albaca, Coronado; Bibigo Kitchen, Fashion Valley; Black Rail + Kitchen + Bar, Carlsbad; Blue Ocean/Harumama, La Jolla; Bull and Bourbon, Sycuan Casino Resort, El Cajon; Candor, La Jolla; The Henry, Coronado; Herb & Sea, Encinitas; Hidden Fish, Kearny Mesa; HiroNori Craft Ramen, Hillcrest; International Smoke, Carmel Valley; Louisiana Purchase, North Park; Little Frenchie, Coronado;

Medina, North Park; Nado Republic, Coronado; Oi Asian Fusion, Barrio Logan; Orfila Tasting Room, Oceanside; Semola, Little Italy Food Hall; Serea, Coronado; Simsim Outstanding Shawarma, Mira Mesa; Sugar Factory, Gaslamp Quarter; Windmill Food Hall, Carlsbad; Zinqué, Little Italy. (Kragen and Parente)

Pam Kragen’s Top 5 Bites

Charred caulilini at Fort Oak, Mission Hills: This broccoli/cauliflower hybrid vegetable is fire-roasted and served with a tangy fermented chile aioli, shallot vinaigrette, crunchy smoked

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almonds, currants and herbs. It’s the perfect blend of tastes, textures and umami. $15. fortoaksd.com Coquille at Jeune et Jolie, Carlsbad: A scallops dish to die for. Halved scallops are perfectly cooked and served with sunchokes, abalone mushrooms and a delicate vin jaune sauce. $32. jeune-jolie.com Gluten-free brown butter waffles, Homestead Solana Beach: Chef Jamie Brawn created this decadent, savory, buttery dish for his sons, who are both gluten-intolerant. Crispy on the outside and featherlight inside, these satisfying waffles are served with whipped walnut butter, raspberry coulis and fresh berries. $12. homestead solanabeach.com Ricotta gnudi at Avant, Rancho Bernardo Inn: Paying homage to the inn’s expansive produce garden, chef Chris Gentile serves this dish in a deep bowl filled with what looks like dirt and edible flowers. Dig below the black-truffle-infused “soil” and find the surprise of hand-pressed mushroom

COAST CREATIVE

The Yasai is the county’s first vegan Japanese eatery. gnudi, oxtail, chestnuts and cranberry. $19. ranchobernardoinn.com/ dine/avant/ Classic vegan ramen at The Yasai, Kearny Mesa: Opened in November by Rakiraki Ramen founder Junya Watanabe, The Yasai is the county’s first vegan Japanese restaurant, and its

savory, delicious Classic vegan ramen is a guilt-free pleasure. Fried kombucha squash, grilled tofu cutlets, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots, wakame seaweed, green onions and garlic chips are served with classic, kale or beet noodles in a surprisingly rich vegan shoyu broth. $14. theyasai.com

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MIKAMI

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7319 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego, CA 92111

858.539.5678