Local Flavor September 2013 by Cullen Curtiss

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

Wine&Chile 2013

Santa Fe | Albuquerque | Taos

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com

HISTORIC NOB HILL

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS

505.254.ZINC(9462)

505.294.WINE(9463)

www.zincabq.com

www.savoyabq.com

Cecilia's Organics in Polvadera, NM

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com

. .truly local.

Introducing the brand new...

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Inside:

Buzz | 10

by Kellly Koepke

A monthly rundown of what’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not.

Big Buzz | 16 by Chef Johnny Vee

It’s one of Local Flavor’s most popular columns—the annual restaurant round-up, featuring a full year of comings and goings in Santa Fe. It’s time for the Big Buzz.

Who’s Who | 22

Who do you know? Who do you love? Check out our breakdown of all the chefs on the cover.

At the Shoot | 24

Thunder and lightning didn’t spoil the fun at the annual all-chefs’ photo shoot, where more than 90 of Santa Fe’s finest showed up to enjoy their day in the sun. (At least the proverbial sun.)

Santa Fe Culinary Academy | 31 by Erin Brooks

It’s not just a dream anymore, it’s a reality—and the sky’s the limit with this team.

Bits and Bytes | 34

A fun new table of contents for localflavormagazine.com by our web editor, Melyssa Holik.

First Crush | 36 by James Selby

Ah, that first sip of something special, that first crush on a great bottle of wine. Writer James Selby urges you to never let the memory fade.

Los Poblanos | 40

by Gail Snyder

One of New Mexico’s great properties adds another jewel to its crown.

Patios, Porches and Portals | 46 by Kelly Koepke

September is the perfect month to enjoy the delights of dining outdoors in the Duke City. Narrowing the list to nine spots was an impossible task—and if you want to take us to task, go to our Facebook page to let us know your favorite.

Beyond the Plaza | 50

New Mexico A Taste of Life in

by Melyssa Holik

Most Santa Fe locals know the various neighborhoods beyond the Plaza, but even they should find this visitor’s guide a real eye-opener.

ile Wine&Ch 2013

Still Hungry? | 44

ON OUR COVER:

by Gordon Bunker

Four of our most distinguished chefs, cover boys all, share some show stopping recipes where they incorporate one of their favorite ingredients––wine.

erque | Taos Santa Fe | Albuqu A Taste of Life in New Mexico SEPTEM BER 2013

SEPTEMBER 2013

On location at the Santa Fe Opera, The Chefs of the 23rd Annual Santa Fe Wine and Chile Festival

SEPTEMBER

2013 ~ Publishers: Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor: Patty Karlovitz Web Editor: Melyssa Holik Art Director: Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Gaelen Casey Advertising: Santa Fe: Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Margaret Henkels 505.501.2290. Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.604.2547. Stacey Hernandez 505.681.5842. Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Distribution: Southwest Circulation Local Flavor Magazine 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 Fax: 988.9663 E-mail: patty@localflavormagazine.com www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $24 per year. Mail check to above address.

© Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

SEPTEMBER 2013

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at four seasons resort rancho encantado

TASTE… Experience a twist on contemporary American cuisine inspired by northern New Mexico and infused with locallysourced organic ingredients. New Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort.

TREAT YOURSELF at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado

For reservations or information, please call (505) 946-5700 or visit fourseasons.com/santafe

at four seasons resort rancho encantado

UNWIND… Escape to the Spa at Rancho Encantado where an innovative selection of spa and wellness services honoring New Mexico’s indigenous healing traditions awaits.

the LETTER

Welcome to September, the month we show off our favorite cover of the year. Imagine 96 chefs at the Santa Fe Opera grounds, watching lightning bolts cut through the sky, waiting for a lull in the storm before daring to climb up on the metal scaffolding to have their official “class photo” taken.

2013

Food+Folklore Festival November 8–10

Explore the past and present, the folklore and customs that created a uniquely New Mexican culinary tradition in a series of keynotes, talks, panel discussions, breakout sessions, creative interludes, and — of course — food! Speakers:

· Gustavo Arellano · Juan José Bochenski · Paul Bosland, Ph.D. · James Campbell Caruso · Nicolasa Chávez · Patricia Crown, Ph.D. · Susan Curtis · Rob DeWalt · Dave DeWitt · Bill & Cheryl Alters Jamison

· Deborah Madison · Carmella Padilla · Jeffrey Pilcher, Ph.D. · Maricel Presilla, Ph.D. · Martín Rios · Lois Rudnick, Ph.D. · John Sedlar · Cordelia Thomas Snow · Don Usner

Tickets: $250 / $200 Museum of New Mexico Foundation Members For tickets call (505) 476-1126 or email Shirley.Lujan @ state.nm.us For up-to-date information visit http://fuzesw.museumofnewmexico.org Presented in conjunction with the exhibition New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más, on exhibit at the Museum of International Folk Art through January 5, 2014. Sponsored by Santa Fe School of Cooking, Museum Hill Café, Museum of International Folk Art, International Folk Art Foundation, Museum of New Mexico Foundation.

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe · (505) 476-1200 · InternationalFolk Art.org

SEPTEMBER 2013

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It was a little more excitement than we had anticipated, but, as you can see from the candid shots we took, we had a great time. That’s not a surprise, because, as a group, these are the men and women who put Santa Fe on the national culinary map. They have trained and mentored each other, worked on the line together, scrubbed more than a few pots and pans over the same sinks, been hired and fired from their ranks, set kitchens ablaze and risen to moments of greatness with a single dish—all of it in the company of each other. That makes them family, and this is indeed Santa Fe’s family photo. And what a delight for Local Flavor to be a part of it all! It’s also time to play catch-up with the comings and goings, openings and closings of our ever-changing restaurant scene. For that we turn to Chef Johnny Vee, the devilishly handsome writer and man about town who really does know all the buzz. Of course, we do a column by that name each month, but this one is the Big Buzz. It’s also a tradition in the Wine and Chile issue to choose a trend that we feel will have a significant impact on the restaurant community in the years to come. In the past, we’ve covered our nationally recognized Farm to Restaurant program, our extensive participation in the Court of Master Sommeliers program and others. This year, it’s the opening of the Santa Fe Culinary Academy. The City Different has several cooking schools, but the Academy stands alone in offering a 46-week Professional Culinary Program. Designed for individuals who intend to cook professionally, it opens the door for Santa Fe to become a magnet attracting aspiring chefs from all over the country who want to live, study and intern here. The dream is just beginning, and there are many challenges ahead. But wait until you see the business savvy behind the organization, meet the two founding chefs, Rocky Durham and Tanya Story, and hear the determination and excitement in their voices. It’s not just a dream. There’s lots more Wine and Chile coverage in the issue, as well as on our website, but for a little breather from those festivities, we head south. First, we visit Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Organic Farm to see how the new ten-room addition is settling in amongst the landmark buildings and the John Gaw Meem structures. It is absolutely splendid. Meem himself is surely smiling down on this New Mexico property and the family entrusted with its care. September’s cool weather makes it the perfect month to enjoy the wonderful porches, patios and portals of Albuquerque’s restaurants. We did our best to name the best, but my guess is that you will have something to say about it, too. Go to our Facebook page and put in a plug for your local favorite—and don’t forget a picture! Savor the issue and savor the last days of summer.

Come TO C k. COME TO EAT. COME To SHOP. The school features hands-on and demonstration kitchens and a market filled with your favorite New Mexican products and foods. We’ve added exciting new cooking classes, taught by some of Santa Fe’s best chefs, and our signature restaurant walking tours are your entrée to the delicious flavors of Santa Fe. Our beautiful new space and outdoor patio are perfect for your special events and private gatherings.

Celebrating Southwest cuisine for over 23 years!

13635-SFSC-Wine&ChileAd-LocalFlavor-FIN.indd 1

Santa Fe School of Cooking & Market 125 North Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe (at the corner of Guadalupe and Johnson) 800.982.4688 505.983.4511 For information & class schedules, visit santafeschoolofcooking.com

8/21/13 10:29 AM

free harvest festival

sunday, september 15 · 12:00 –4:00 pm 12:00–1:00 pm · Talk by Stanley Crawford, Author & Farmer on The Farming Life 1:00–4:00 pm · Food, Vendors, Hands-on Projects, and Fun for the Entire Family Music by Mariachi Buenaventura and El Camino de Paz Marimba Ensemble Presented in conjunction with the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, and New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Máte y Mas. Funded by the International Folk Art Foundation and the Museum of New Mexico Foundation.

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe · www.InternationalFolkArt.org · (505) 476-1200

SEPTEMBER 2013

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LAURA SHEPPHERD

Competitive Prices S t o pLargest I n Selections & Stock Up Friendly Staff for all of your celebrations Something for every Taste

15 year anniversary sale!

ATELIER

20 to 75% off coats, gloves, hats, cocktail dresses & close-out bridal!

Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar Wine Manager on Duty We also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer

Presently Stocking:

Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm

Over 3500 Wines

Come celebrate with us!

800 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches 220 Types of Vodka 222 Tequilas 136 Types of Rum photosantagto.com

FINE WINE & LIQUOR

Est. 1981

Established 1981

505.455.2219 Competitive Prices

kokoman@cybermesa.com Largest Selection Hwy 84/285 • Pojoaque Friendly 12 miles North Staff of Santa Fe

Española

65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com like us on

Taos

Pojoaque Exit #502

Over 20 varieties of keg beer Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar Something for every taste...

Presently Stocking Over 3,500 Wines 950 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches 240 Types of Vodka 230 Tequilas 136 Types of Rum Conveniently located 12 easy miles north of Santa Fe and on the way to all your favorite destinations in Northern New Mexico... 505-455-2219 • kokoman@cybermesa.com 34 Cities of Gold Road • Hwy 84/285 Pojoaque 87506

Now Open!

Lunch & Dinner • 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 • terracottawinebistro.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

the BUZZ

will be presented to conservator Luis Neri Zagal, and Albuquerque Poet Laureate Hakim Bellamy will speak. For more info visit artscrawlabq.org.

b y K E L LY K O E P K E

ALBUQUERQUE

Photo: Gabriella Marks

The restaurant world is all abuzz with anticipation at the news that luminary James Campbell Caruso, of Santa Fe Spanish tapas cafés La Boca and Taberna, is taking over the restaurant at the historic Hotel Andaluz. A remodel is underway to transform the old Lucia space into a modern southern Spanish and Moroccan concept restaurant that matches the beauty and passion of the hotel. The new place, MÁS, will launch in early October with tapas, starters, entrées and a new Spanish wine list. Caruso (a multiple James Beard nominee) will also create the small plates for the rooftop Ibiza bar. (Food and beverages will continue to be served in the gorgeous lobby, too.) If you thought the Andaluz was a gem before, Caruso’s inventive creativity will take the hotel to a whole new level.

| James Campbell Caruso Page One has a move in the works, too, and we get to help decide where. After 20 years, the venerable local new-and-used bookstore lost their space to a corporate big box. Visit page1book.com to vote for one of several potential locations, and stop into the Juan Tabo/Montgomery locale until the end of the month to stock up so they don’t have to schlep so many of those books, stationery supplies, calendars and other goodies to the new space. Good luck on the relo, Steven Morado Stout and staff. Save the date for September 15, the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust (RGALT) annual fundraising dinner. Old Town Farms hosts this year’s farm-totable evening along the verdant mother acequia, highlighting the chefs of Zinc, Savoy, Seasons and Farm and Table, with live music, and a killer silent auction. The sumptuous feast will consist entirely of locally farmed organic meats, grains, fruits, vegetables and spirits. RGALT works to ensure our rich tradition of valley agricultural lands are available for future generations. More at rgalt.org. 10

SEPTEMBER 2013

For months now, Nob Hill’s been wondering what was going on behind the papered over windows next to the Guild Cinema. Shade Tree Customs and Café plans to open its doors this month, offering motorcycles, music and food. The Shade Tree, owned by Richard Rael, Jimmie Hughart and Ryan Greer, is sprucing up the space to include a basement-level shop to build and fix custom bikes: Nortons, Triumphs and BSAs. The street level diner-style eatery—think meatloaf, a family-recipe chili (with an i), sandwiches and other road food—features beer on tap and local musical acts. Catch a flick at the Guild, then stop next door for a bite and a beer. Albuquerqueans love their paletas (Spanish for “popsicle”), judging by the number of paleterias dotting the city. With its boutique sensibilities, inventive ingredient combinations and infectious personalities of owners (and brothers), Lorenzo and Carlos Alvarez, Pop Fizz is more than just another addition to the frozen treat landscape. Avocado, mimosa or chile-mango paletas? Yes, please. There is also a fresh juice bar, shakes, smoothies and traditional Mexican aguas frescas. Call 505.695.1180 for hours at the storefront (Bridge Street at Isleta) and to find out where the Pop Fizz mobile cart will be around the city. We also love food trucks, especially when they go head to head. On September 8, mosey over to the Rail Yards at 1100 Second Street SW for the Albuquerque Food Truck Throwdown competition. Proceeds from the event will go toward the renovation of the Wheels Transportation Museum. Hear local bands and DJs, lay eyes on the custom hot rods and classic cars, and chow down on the unique eats from 22 food trucks, with beer and wine from area breweries and wineries. The event takes place from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call 505.804.1976 for complete details. Each year, the Albuquerque Art Business Association inducts into its pantheon of Local Treasures artists who significantly contribute to the art and culture scene. This year’s reception on Sunday, September 8, at the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, features panoramic photographer and three-time Oscar winner Bill Tondreau, a digital manipulator of images of our gorgeous surroundings. This year’s other recipients are printmaker Adabel Allen, landscape painter J. Waid Griffin, painter Robert Kuester, dancer and artist Richard Maitland, multi-media artist Mary Carroll Nelson, Native clothing and accessories designer Penny Singer and political cartoonist John Trever. A special Preserving our Past for our Future award magazine.com

| Photograph by Bill Tondreau An annual rite of fall now in its ninth year, ¡Globalquerque! New Mexico’s Annual Celebration of World Music and Culture, returns to the National Hispanic Cultural Center September 20 and 21. Each evening, organizers Neal Copperman and Tom Frouge deliver performers from the far reaches of the planet alongside the best artists from New Mexico and the Southwest. With three stages, artist-led workshops, international dance classes, hands-on crafts and a musical instrument playground, the event is an autumn cornucopia of craft, culture and cuisine. And don’t miss the (free) Global Fiesta. Visit globalquerque.org for the current line-up, vendors, preview events and tickets.

Latin cuisine, one that marries local ingredients to international flavors—like Korean tacos with marinated, flame-grilled flank steak and spicy Napa cabbage cole slaw tucked into corn tortillas, finished with gochujang sauce blended with avocado. This new style of cooking shows Rodriguez’s commitment to his Santa Fe roots, world-class culinary skills and a love of amped-up street cuisine. To match the chef ’s inspiration, La Posada offers an extensive local art collection curated by Sara Eyestone, live Latin music and salsa dancing. If you remember the hotel’s signature restaurant Fuego! as fancyschmancy, return for the more casual atmosphere that includes s’mores made over the outdoor fireplace. Sounds like an inviting fall at La Posada this year.

| Chef Carmen Rodriguez

| Chef Eric Stumpf Kudos to Corn Maiden Restaurant chef de cuisine Eric Stumpf for his secondplace finish in the Great American Seafood Cook-Off in New Orleans. The Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort and Spa sent Stumpf and sous chef Matthew Schnooberger to whip up an amazing dish of sweet corn-crusted New Mexico brown trout and market vegetables with Hatch chile. We aren’t really known for our fish and crustaceans here in the desert, so it’s an extra-special thrill that Stumpf bested 13 other chefs from places with coastlines! The seafood cook-off, sponsored by the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration and the Louisiana Seafood Promotion and Marketing Board, features domestic seafood native to the chefs’ home states.

SANTA FE When you’re named New Mexico’s Chef of the Year, it would be easy to rest on your laurels. Not so for La Posada de Santa Fe’s Carmen Rodriguez. After months of testing new, bold recipes, he has created a delicious menu of global

Have you sipped a beverage on El Farol’s new back patio yet? Open daily starting at 11 a.m. for lunch, dinner, drinks and dessert, one of our favorite tapas and Spanish cuisine hangouts is even more inviting. The refreshed space boasts a shady pergola, twinkly lights and an outdoor fireplace (and dogs welcome). Owner David Salazar’s love of art (check out the local artists featured on the walls), good food and good company has made El Farol an anchor of the Santa Fe dining and entertainment scene. Visit elfarolsf.com. Speaking of refreshed spaces, head up to the reopened La Fonda Hotel’s outdoor Bell Tower Bar. Beyond the spectacular sunsets and new tradition of ringing the bell as el sol descends, the new menu from executive chef Lane Warner features smoked chicken nachos and ham, and green chile panini bites, as well as his signature margarita, the Bell Ringer. If you forget your sweater in the evening, new heaters will dispel any chill. We predict a chiming success for this seasonal space with the killer views. Are you a burger purist or do you go for exotic additions like horseradish-jalapeño pickles or melted Brie? Be at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market on Saturday, September 7, for the inaugural Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown. On a base of beef, cheese and green chile, seven inspired chefs will add individual touches to their

entries. Sample tastes from Terra at Rancho Encantado, Luminaria, Bert’s Burger Bowl, Cowgirl, Agave Lounge at Eldorado Hotel and Spa, Realburger and Dr. Field Goods. More at santafe. org. Rack up another honor for Santa Fe from Travel + Leisure Magazine. This time the accolades accrue to Bouche Bistro as one of the top French restaurants in the U.S. The not-so-wellkept secret’s out! Congrats to owner/chef (and James Beard nominee) Charles Dale! Want your kids to understand the relationship between local farms and the food they eat? Join Whole Foods Market to make a difference at the Santa Fe Community Farm on Saturday, September 14, at 9 a.m., for the Harvest for Hope day of service. This twohour project harvests the veggies this amazing garden grows to feed the less fortunate in New Mexico. Whole Kids Foundation will provide a salad lunch, and participants can hear about nutrition and its impact on their children’s learning. “The farm is dependent on the open hands and willing hearts of its volunteers, and rewards individuals with the satisfaction of working together to become a part of the solution to help end hunger in New Mexico,” says Executive Director Linda Marple. To sign up, visit twfmharvesthope.eventbrite.com. You use a real estate agent to buy property, so why not use an art broker to buy art? Brokers work like real estate agents, finding the perfect work for a buyer. A big welcome back to Canyon Road Art Brokerage, which recently reopened its doors at 618 Canyon Road. Originally established in 1998 by fine art consultant and dealer Richard Ian Greene at this location, the intimate, elegant gallery showroom connects collectors with by notable artists like John Nieto, Forrest Moses, Walt Gonske, Earl Biss, Kathleen Morris, Michael Wright and Harold Joe Waldrum. Ledger art, Southeast Asian art and studio glass art are also included in the collections. For the past 12 years, director Barbara Beames has consulted in Santa Fe galleries and directed a gallery in Vail. Connect with the company at canyonroadartbrokerage. com to find exactly the pieces you want. If it’s September, it must be studio tour time, when local artists and artisanal crafts communities throw open their doors to all comers—collectors, appreciators, locals and tourists. Lace up your walking shoes for three on consecutive weekends’ worth of fun. First, visit the small village of Pilar, along the Rio Grande Gorge, for the 14th Annual Pilar Studio Tour, September 14-15. The next weekend, September 21-22, head north again for the Pojoaque River Art Tour (off NM 502). Be sure to hit Than Povi Fine Art Gallery and San Ildefonso Pueblo artists Deborah and Elmer Torres and their

collective of five local artists. Wrap up the month with the 16th Annual High Road Art Tour, where some 70 artisans invite you into their spaces. You’ve got two weekends for this one: September 21-22 and 28-29. For more info on all the tours, visit santafe.com/calendar/ major-event/art-studio-tours. Santa Fe has some awesome, eclectic consignment shops – everything from the most amazing, often never worn, designer cast offs to shoes, accessories, furniture and more. Arabella D’Lucca, proprietress of one of our favs, Ooh la la! Consignment for women, has opened a store just for the men in our lives. MEN! Consignment for Him is next door at 518 Old Santa Fe Trail, the first consignment store in the area offering designer and contemporary fashion strictly for the well dressed man. (Fun decor with a Sinatra touch.) Visit menofsantafe.com for more info and how you can make some money off your own gently worn duds.

| Frank Sinatra

TAOS Red River is the place to be for music and performance this month. On September 21, enjoy the Red River Bluegrass Music Festival at the Red River Community House, with bluegrass and Americana musicians from all over the region, like Pete Wernick (also known as Dr. Banjo) and the Triple L Band. September 27-29 at the Lift House Bar and Grill, bring the whole family to Red Fest Music Festival, an outdoor music event featuring multiple acts throughout the day. Gates open at 11 a.m. for this all-ages event. The same weekend, hit the Aspencade Performing Arts and Crafts Fair; to commemorate the founding of Red River in 1895, this year’s theme is steampunk. Browse through booths of handcrafted items while you enjoy delicious food, live entertainment and the crisp air and changing colors of fall in Red River. Get all the details at taos.org.

| Pete Wernick

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

18 years serving locals & tourist alike

Authentic Italian Cuisine prepared by a true Italian Chef

A l b u q u e r q u e ’s O n l y L i f e C a r e R e t i r e m e n t C o m m u n i t y

58 S. Federal Place • Santa Fe 505-986-5858 • osteriadassisi.com

True Italian Pizzeria & Gelatteria • Wood Burning oven • Patio Dinning • Live music • Beer & Wine • Take-out 204 Guadalupe St ~ Santa Fe 505-982-8474 ~ pizzeriadalino.com

Live Now.

“

Having fun with friends new and old is only part of the reason I love it here. Stimulating conversation and plenty of things to do enrich each day, right here on our 22-acre campus or elsewhere. The staff is top-notch. My life continues to be an exciting adventure.

”

— Chuck Scott, La Vida Llena resident

NOW OPEN Churrasco Brazilian style grill all-you-can-eat meat and gourmet salad bar

Tapas menu also available Tuesday - Sunday Lunch 11am to 2:30pm Dinner 5pm to 9pm

To schedule a personal presentation, call 800.922.1344 or 505.293.4001.

1005 S. St. Francis Drive at Cerrillos between Susan’s Fine Wine & Tiny’s

10501 Lagrima de Oro NE Albuquerque, NM 87111

505-780-5483

La Vida Llena, a leader for 30 years in New Mexico senior living, is part of Haverland Carter Lifestyle Group.

SEPTEMBER 2013

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B e s t pi z z a i n t o w n !

omiragrill.com •

Will Leathergoods C.C. Filson

Valspar #10074 Midnight Dreams Valspar #D40-9A Bowl of Berries Black

534C 1807C

Randolph

Engineering Kuhl Brooks JanSport

Skip Yowell Collection Blundstone Barbour Oliberte Tres Cuervos Red Jacket

Jacqueline’s Place

235 Don Gaspar #1 Located next to Santa Fe Village 505-992-1233 Open 7 Days

Celebrate Wine and Chile

Caffe Greco Open Daily 7:30AM – 8PM

Throughout the week The Old House restaurant will feature Perrier-Jouët winery starting September 25. In addition, join us for a Comparative dinner with Domaine Drouhin & Joseph Drouhin on September 26, and a Robert Mondavi Reserve dinner on September 27.

Reservations Required, Gift Cards Available 505.995.4530

Eldorado Hotel & Spa 309 W. San Francisco Street EldoradoHotel.com

P laza de S uenos y M ilagros JEWEL MARK 505.820.6304 • JACQUELINE’S PLACE 505.820.6542 CAFFE GRECO 505.820.7996

once you have stepped into our world you won’t want to leave 233 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 • JewelMark.net

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

23rd AnnuAl

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta september 25—29, 2013

Grand Tasting 70 Fabulous Santa Fe Restaurants & 100 World-Class Wineries Saturday September 28th Schedule & Tickets w w w.sant af ew ine andchile .or g 5 0 5 - 4 3 8 - 8 0 6 0

Winery dinner schedule (c All hos t res tAurAnt) TUesday, sepTember 24 Arroyo Vino & Ramey Wine Cellars (505) 983-2100 Wednesday, sepTember 25 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar & Elk Cove 986-9190 Amaya & Truchard 955-7805 Arroyo Vino & Guest Chef David Tanis (505) 983-2100 La Plazuela & Cakebread 995-2316 Ristra & Lucas & Lewellen 982-8608 Santa Fe Bar & Grill & Gruet 982-3033 The Mixed Grill at Club Las Campanas & Chateau Montelena 995-3500

ThUrsday, sepTember 26 Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder & Clos du Val 819-2056 Restaurant Martin & Justin 820-0919 Rio Chama & Domaine Serene 955-0765 Tanti Luce 221 & Francis Ford Coppola 988-2355 Terra & Champagne Ruinart & Newton 946-5800 The Club at Quail Run & Ferrari-Carano 986-2200 The Old House & Domaine Drouhin & Joseph Drouhin 995-4530 The Compound & Plumpjack & Cade 982-4353 The Tea House & Piedmont Wines feat. Michael Milano 992-0972 Vanessie & J Vineyards 982-9966

ThUrsday, sepTember 26 Arroyo Vino & Kermit Lynch 983-2100 Bouche Bistro & Martinelli 982-6297 The Guesthouse @ Santa Fe Culinary Academy & Estrella del Norte Anasazi Restaurant & Jordan 988-3236 La Casa Sena & Fess Parker 988-9232 Luminaria & Calera 984-7915 Osteria D’Assisi & Empson 986-5858

Friday, sepTember 27 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar & Frog’s Leap 986-9190 Arroyo Vino & The Spire Collection 983-2100 El Farol & Montes 983-9912 Swiss Bistro & Bakery & Schug 988-1111 Osteria d’Assisi & Ruffino 986-5858 Pranzo & Joel Gott 984-2645 The Old House & Robert Mondavi Reserve 995-4530

0913 iota ads lf.pdf

8/26/13

1:44 PM

A TASTE OF THE A N N U A L C H I L E H A RV E S T A N D S I G N AT U R E D I S H E S WITH AN A RG E N T I N I A N F L A I R

Setzer, Finkel Hans_Layout 1 8/27/13 4:59 PM Page 1

SFCA

At Anasazi Restaurant, savor this year’s chile harvest: Skin Pan Fried Halibut Julio’s Chicken Enchiladas Duck Enchilada Mole Chile Almond Crusted Atlantic Salmon

Featuring Chef Juan Bochenski’s signature dishes: Buffalo Empandas Grilled Waygu Beef Strip Loin

CMY

Live music Saturday evenings

Beethoven, Shostakovich, and Dvořák

September 16, 2013 7:30pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

113 Washington Avenue Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988-3030 www.rosewoodhotels.com

Ribs & Marga ritas

Come enjoy amazing meals like our Rib & Chicken Combo, innovative signature cocktails like our Pineapple Margarita, and relaxation on our beautiful enclosed patio!

’ n i k o m

Tickets Santa Fe at the Lensic: 505-988-1234 Tickets $25-$75 www.santafeconcerts.org

2571 Cristos Rd, Santa Fe (across from the Auto Park near Kohls) 505-424-8900 • info@theranchhousesantafe.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

story by CHEF JOHNNY VEE

n a stormy afternoon in late July, a major portion of the Santa Fe culinary scene gathered in the forecourt of the Opera House to pose for a photo shoot for the cover of the September Local Flavor Magazine. As the wind swirled around us and rain threatened to dampen the occasion, editor and hospitality champion Patty Karlovitz rallied the troops with a heartfelt speech about how all in attendance were brothers and sisters in a common cause—one big family and community. Her sentiments got me thinking. As I looked around at my brethren, I realized that a year in the life of our thriving restaurant scene is like a year in the history of a great expansive clan of which I am proud to be member. It’s a diverse family, made up of many nationalities. It’s a happy family and a dysfunctional one—just like the ones we are born into. There is definitely sibling rivalry that occasionally rears its head, part Brady Bunch and part Addams Family. New restaurants are born, others close. Chefs move to town and join the assembly, and sadly some leave us. But the ties that bind somehow get us through; it’s a testament to our collective heritage. I had a lot of fun playing with my family this year. Although I didn’t get to visit all my foodie relatives (and there were plenty of new kinfolk to meet), I did get to pull up a chair at a good chunk of our over 200 dining establishments. Happily for me, food was always a part of the visit. What better way to catch up on all the local buzz and gossip than by breaking bread with the chefs. And since the food world is my Local Flavor beat – I love to share it with our readers. Don’t let it ever be said that our food scene is staid or in danger of becoming lethargic. Dining at any of the three new-kids-on-the-block certainly confirmed that our local talents know how to keep us inspired to dine out in the City Different. Hard-to-get reservations and waits for tables both mean good news for restaurateurs. The biggest buzz

SEPTEMBER 2013

magazine.com

photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

was generated by Charles Dale’s Bouche, in the former Aqua Santa location downtown. French bistro food continues its popularity, and I think Dale hits the mark with his classic menu – deceptively simple and astonishingly good. Seating was tight at the beginning, but with the terrace opening during the summer months, it’s easier to get in and more comfortable to relax while noshing on frog’s legs, escargot, sweetbreads, steak frites and the most enormous profiteroles you will ever meet. Dale cleverly navigated the transition from hotel chef at Encantado to darling of the downtown set. The dapper chef also got married this year, which must be the second reason for his big smile. It’s also nice to have Paul Montoya handling the wine list; you have to love a sommelier who suggests Champagne at the beginning of the meal. Dr. Field Goods’ chef Josh Gerwin took no prisoners when he opened in a strip mall out on Cerrillos Road (is it becoming the new restaurant row?). He’s a cocky son of a gun, but I admire his chutzpah. He butchers his own pigs and goats, plays rock-and-roll music that he likes, promotes farm-to-table and local ingredients without banging the drum, and he’s gathered a solid fan base faster than you can utter Mötley Crüe! The tattooed chef ’s carne adovada egg roll is the tastiest collision of two ethnic cuisines since the Korean taco. The wood-fired pizzas and the steak au poivre sandwich are pretty darn good too. If you haven’t been yet, go check out what the next generation of culinarians is up to. The third joint in this trifecta of hotspots is the ultra-cool Arroyo Vino, on the road to swanky Las Campanas. Chef Mark Connell, who set palates a-wagging with Max’s two years ago, returns to the scene with a small plates menu that, to me, is one of the most provocative in town. I love to go there and tell the staff, “Bring it on.” I am always intrigued by Connell’s creative pairing of ingredients (his pureed kimchi as a sauce under crispy pork belly is pure brilliance). I love the fact that you can order any wine from the adjoining wine shop and have it served for a mere $20 corkage fee. Andrew Cooper has done a great job filling Charles Dale’s talented shoes in the Terra Restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado. He’s one of the most affable guys in town and always happy to join (or lead) any event that benefits the community. Encantado is still one of the prettiest settings to watch the sun set, and my vote for sexiest brunch dish in town is the carne adovada–like Morning After Eye Opener. It’s beef short-rib hash with Yukon Gold potatoes, pickled jalapeños and eggs sunny side up. It really works!

| Chef Andrew Cooper of Four Seasons Resort

| Charles Dale of Bouche

| Glenda Griswold & Catherine O’Brien/ Terra Cotta

There’s been a real energy shift on Johnson Street with the opening of TerraCotta, in the space that was recently Vivre. I was sad to see Chef Nelli Maltezos leave town (partner Eric Stapleman packed up his Shibumi and headed to Seattle). Peas ‘n’ Pod caterers Glenda Griswold and Catherine O’Brien have set up shop and made it more casual and affordable, with a broad menu that allows for light dining or a full-fledged dinner. The butter pecan chicken with bacon-braised greens and Cheddar grits will remind you of why you love Southern cooking, and O’Brien’s ricotta cheesecake makes me think she’s really Italian. I like Midtown Bistro’s airy setting and hint of Santacafé from days of yore. That’s no surprise, since owners Edmund Catanach and Angel Estrada (who is also the chef ) honed their chops there for many years. The partners have created a contemporary, modern décor; snazzy red chairs and a soaring ceiling make me feel like I’m in a real metropolis. The food is simple and straightforward, and it’s nice to be looked after by familiar staff. It’s a great setting for brunch, too, with ample natural lighting and yummy eggs Benedict with avocado and potato hash. Here the calamari is gluten-free and positively delicious. Keep your eye on this area around San Mateo—it’s fast becoming a restaurant destination of its own.

| Edmund Catanach and Chef Angel Estrada of Midtown Bistro | Photo: Gaelen Casey

| Chef Mark Connell of Arroyo Vino

Chef Josh Gerwin of Dr. Field Goods | Photo: Kitty Leaken

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

| Joseph Wrede of Joseph’s

| Chef Steve Lemon of Pranzo

| Photo: Kate Russell

| Chef Clay Bordan of Tabla de los Santos

Speaking of gluten-free, apparently it’s a trend that’s here to stay. Clever entrepreneurs like Leslie Thompson, at Momo and Co., and Dionne Christian, at Revolution Bakery, have hopped on the bandwagon, and are turning out tasty baked goods made without gluten. Vegan options abound as well, and I commend both companies for striving to improve on what started out as a quality-challenged line of food. Currently in my life I am gluten-full, but I’m glad to know the options exist. Santa Feans freaked when Bobcat Bite had to close its doors early this summer, smack dab in the middle of burger season. But, hallelujah, owners Bonnie and John Eckre picked up stakes and opened the Santa Fe Bite in Garrett’s Desert Inn. They even expanded the menu to include breakfast and dinner. The new digs will need some roughing up to match the former cafe’s atmosphere, and, as someone said to me, “The griddle is gonna have to build up some grease before the burgers taste the same!” I’m excited, because the Bite is right around the corner from my house, and I do love those green chile cheeseburgers. Andrea Clover, previously the wondrous pastry chef at Inn and Spa at Loretto, has joined the team to offer a full line of fancy Chez Drè Pastries. You can go home again – Steve Lemon is back at Pranzo after almost a decade following other pursuits. Already I have enjoyed his sprucing up of the Pranzo classics as well as the addition of some of the terrific stuff he did out at O Eating House. After all these years I still LOVE his frito misto of delicate fried shrimp, scallops and calamari.And his home-made burrata––it’s to die for. There’s a new kid in town at the Hotel St. Francis’s Tabla de los Santos. Clay Bordan hails from the east coast but has cooked around the West and has a résumé rich with the current trends: local, organic and seasonal. Although the restaurant is ensconced in the hotel, it is Bordan’s baby all the way; “new menu, new owner, new attitude” is his marketing mantra. With such a terrific location and pretty dining 18

SEPTEMBER 2013

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| Pastry Chef Andrea Clover of Santa Fe Bite

| Ziggy and Sally Rzig of Omira Bar & Grill

| Chef Tom Kerpon, Barbara Rice, Rick Smith, Missy Auge at Tanti Luce 221

room, it has a lot going for it. We’re rooting for the new chef to fire up the menu and give us another great downtown eatery. Chris Milligan, one of the best barmen in town, is right next door at the Secreto Lounge, so do stop by for a creative adult beverage prior to dinner. Bravo to Tanti Luce’s Rick Smith, Missy Auge and Chef Tom Kerpon for teaming up with the folks at the Turquoise Butterfly and expanding their Shelby Street business to include a 10,000 square-foot outdoor dining area called the Deck at 221. It’s an interesting concept combining eating, drinking and shopping, all in an outdoor courtyard setting overlooking the Santa Fe River. The courtyard is lined with room-sized nichos furnished by theme: the Wine Grotto, Santa Fe Olé, Old World Charm and Western Roundup, to name a few. Three of the twelve rooms will be used for private dining overlooking the beautiful fountain and flowers—something that you just can’t find in Santa Fe. I haven’t been up there yet but am looking forward to seeing and tasting what Mr. Kerpon has been up to. Clearly Barbara and Ken Rice of the Turquoise Butterfly and the Tanti Luce folks have faith in our local economy, and that’s a good thing! Joseph Wrede, of Taos’ Joseph’s Table, is finally getting back to his roots with Joseph’s, opening in the space left empty by Azur’s closing. Wrede needed to incorporate other concepts into his cooking with his stints at The Palace and Tomme, but now as the sole proprietor he can get back to doing what he does best: experimenting and expanding the envelope of contemporary American cooking. Wrede’s culinary journey always makes for interesting dining, and I look forward to his October opening. Another trend that’s front and center in many cities is the low-carb paleo diet. At Omira Bar and Grill, next to Susan’s Fine Wine, owner Mohamed “Ziggy” Rzig is giving the Brazilian churrasqueira concept a spin. There is a large, handsomely renovated dining room with creative salad bar and waiters who roam the room with skewers sporting a nice selection of marinated meats and other goodies. Come with an appetite and eat until you can eat no more, all for one price. Loaded with protein, the results are delicious. I’d like to toast a member of the family who sadly died this year. Eric LaMalle of Ristra was a gentleman with great style and panache. There is something about a French accent that just makes food sound better. I will miss hearing him describe the dishes he recommended to me when I frequented Ristra. The restaurant continues in his absence. I hate it when the good guys leave us. So as we celebrate another year at the big family reunion at the 23rd Annual Wine & Chile Fiesta, remember what Sister Sledge said perfectly in their disco hit. “We are family. I got all my sisters with me. We are family. Get up everybody and sing.” And eat and drink.

| Eric LaMalle of Ristra

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

Great Sandwiches

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Simply put, localflavor gets it. I look forward to reading Johnny Vee’s ‘at the table’ with the same anticipation every month. The magazine is a favorite of our guests, and of mine.Thank you Patty! – Dana Ortega Director of Sales & Marketing Inn and Spa at Loretto

See ya at the Grand Tasting!! WIne & Chile Festival

326 S. Guadalupe • 988-7008 • www.ziadiner.com 20

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New Mexico’s 9th Annual Celebration of World Music and Culture

Sept 20 - 21

Come eARLy! Ay Leon PLAyS FR! id At 6:20

Leon Russell

Poncho Sánchez

Sierra Leone’s Refugee All Stars

Solas

10 performances Nightly 3 Distinct Stages Fri. & Sat. September 20 & 21 • Starting at 5 pm Roam between indoor and outdoor stages, sampling music from around the world, visiting craft booths, grabbing international snacks and local beer and wine. Dance under the stars or relax in the theater. It’s all part of the ¡Globalquerque! experience!

the Global Village of Craft, Cultural & Cuisine

Open through the entire festival! Art, Crafts, Clothing, Jewelry • International Foods • Artisan Beer & Wine

FRee Global Fiesta Sat. Sept. 21, 10:30 am - 4 pm Enjoy free international dance classes, workshops and discussions with visiting artists, hands-on crafts, film, lectures and panels. Activities for both kids and adults.

Online tickets and information:

www.globalquerque.org Tickets in person or by phone from the NHCC Box Office (505-724-4771) National Hispanic Cultural Center • Albuquerque, New Mexico USA

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

photo by GAELEN CASEY

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

Augusto “Titin” Delprado Chef de Cuisine Israel Celote Line Chef Mariano Martinez Sous Chef Tom Kerpon Chef Jordan Marsters Chef de Cuisine Sally Rzig Chef Mamadu Kaba Chef Rene Guerra Chef Candelario Gonzalez Chef Gus Emery Exec. Chef de Cuisine Tanya Story* Exec. Pastry Chef Julio Cabrera Sous Chef Rocky Durham Exec. Chef/Cofounder Alejandro Hernandez Sous Chef Evan Doughty Chef de Cuisine Edgar Jiménez Chef Alvaro Ramirez Exec. Sous Chef Clay Bordan Chef/Owner Alexander Cuffee Sous Chef Edisson Delgado Sous Chef Jorge Antuna Manager ** Jesus Rivera Manager Jose L. Rodriguez Chef 22

SEPTEMBER 2013

315 Restaurant 315 Restaurant 315 Restaurant Tanti Luce 221 Agoyo Lounge Omira Grill Pyramid Café Tortilla Flats Maria’s The Compound SF Culinary Academy Anasazi Restaurant SF Culinary Academy Anasazi Restaurant Old House Santa Fe Capitol Grill La Casa Sena Tabla de los Santos La Tabla de los Santos Tabla de los Santos Pecos Trail Café Pecos Trail Café La Boca and Taberna magazine.com

24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Javier Alejandro Ibarra Chef Joseph Wrede Exec. Chef/Partner Jose Guzman Exec. Chef Russell Thornton Chef Elio Licano Sous Chef Johnny Vee Chef-Director Francisco Diaz Chef Andrew Nichols Exec. Chef Amaury Torres Owner/Chef Jeffrey Kaplan Exec. Chef Alberto León Sous Chef *** Martin Anton Exec. Chef Christopher McLean Exec. Chef John Fleming Sous Chef Alex Christensen Chef Moises Garcia Sous Chef Carmen Rodriguez Exec. Chef Ryan Gabel Chef Luis Quezada Exec. Chef Carlos Gonzales Cook Jose Flores Cook Fernando Flores**** Chef Yovanny Paz Head Chef

Taberna La Boca Joseph’s Del Charro Rio Chama Del Charro Las Cosas Cooking School Swiss Bistro and Bakery The Club at Las Campanas Babaluu’s Cucina Cubana The Bistro at SF Marriott The Bistro at SF Marriott Santacafe Las Fuentes/Bishop’s Lodge Las Fuentes/Bishop’s Lodge The Ranch House The Ranch House Fuego at La Posada Palace Red Sage Buffalo Thunder Jinja Jinja Jinja El Farol

47 Nelson H. Trujillo Sous Chef El Farol 48 Francisco Aguilar T. Chef Pizzeria da Lino † 49 Ricardo Zambrano Sub Chef Pizzeria da Lino 50 Ismael Najera Sous Chef Osteria d’Assisi Exec. Chef Terra at Four Seasons 51 Andrew Cooper 52 Cristian Pontiggia Exec. Chef Osteria d’Assisi 53 Gigi-Beatrice Ramirez Pastry Chef Terra at Four Seasons 54 Joshua Ortiz Sous Chef Palace Chef Arroyo Vino 55 Mark Connell 56 Ziggy Rzig †† Owner/Chef Pyramid Café/Omira Grill 57 Charles Dale Chef/Owner Bouche Bistro Chef de Cuisine Bouche Bistro 58 Sllin Cruz 62 Xavier Grenet Chef Ristra 63 Santiago Ceja Campos Sous Chef Ristra 64 Ruben Terrazas Sous Chef Ristra 65 Ricardo Rodriguez Kitchen Manager Steaksmith Restaurant Chef Hilton Buffet 66 Brian Sepulveda Chef de Cuisine Red Sage Buffalo Thunder 67 Ka’ainoa Ravey Chef Babaluu’s Cucina Cubana 68 Michael Geier Exec. Chef/Owner Terra Cotta Wine Bistro 69 Catherine O’Brien Chef Jambo Café 70 Ahmed Obo Cook Jambo Café 71 Luis España ‡ 72 Carlos Rivas Chef Santa Fe Bar and Grill 73 Victor Medina Chef San Francisco St. Bar & Grill Exec. Chef Luminaria 74 Brett Sparman 75 Adelmo Tiscaeño Kitchen Manager Steaksmith at El Gancho 76 David Mora Sous Chef Arroyo Vino Exec. Sous Chef Coyote Café 77 Eduardo Rodriguez Sous Chef Coyote Café 78 Benjamin Ruiz 79 Candelario Rivera Sous Chef La Plazuela at La Fonda Jalapeños 81 Raul Aboytes Owner 82 Saul Valtierra Padilla Chef Gabriel’s Jalapeños 83 Carlos Sanchez Garcia Line Cook Exec. Chef/Consultant Jinja 84 Marianne Deery Amaya at Hotel Santa Fe 85 Walter Y. Dominguez Chef de Cuisine Exec. Chef Amaya at Hotel Santa Fe 86 Patrick Kline Owner Restaurant Martín 87 Martín Rios 88 Carlos A. Dominguez Sous Chef La Plazuela at La Fonda 89 Javier Trujillo Sous Chef La Plazuela at La Fonda 90 Angel Estrada Chef/Owner Midtown Bistro Owner Midtown Bistro 91 Edmund Catanach 92 Pat Shaughnessy Chef Babaluu’s Cucina Cubana †* 93 Steven Lemon Chef Pranzo 94 Tracy Ritter Culinary Director SF School of Cooking 97 Mario Mendoza Sous Chef Coyote Café 98 Annaliza Herrera Pastry Chef Buffalo Thunder Resort 99 Noé Cano Chef de Cuisine SF School of Cooking 100 Daksh Morada Exec. Sous Chef Buffalo Thunder †** 114 Deena Chafetz Exec. Chef The Grille at Quail Run

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GIVE OUR WINE A SWIRL. Don't miss our wine dinner featuring the spectacular creations of Chef Ka'ainoa Ravey paired with Clos du Val of Napa Valley.

September 26, 2013 at 7:00pm If reserved prior to September10, 2013 ~ $100.00 An exceptional price on an outstanding evening.

For reservations please visit BuﬀaloThunderResort.com or call 505 819 2056

Row 5, 4th from right, number not visible Row 6, 1st on left; number not visible *** Row 4, center; number not visible **** Row 4, 4th from left; number not visible † Row 4, 5th from left; number not visible †† Row 5, 1st on left; number not visible ‡ Row 7, 1st on left; number not visible †* Top row; 2nd from right; number not visible †** Row 6; 5th from right; number not visible

STAY HILTON. GO EVERYWHERE.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico Untitled - Page: 1

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2013-08-24 00:11:36 +0100

photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

| New Kids on the Block Jeffrey Kaplan, Glenda Griswold, Catherine O’Brien, Clay Bordan, Jorge Antuna, Jesus Rivera, Kaáinoa Ravey, Andrew Cooper, Mamadu Kaba, Ziggy Rzig, Sally Rzig

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| Our hero Gaelen

La Casa Sena Welcomes Fess Parker Winery T h u r s d a y, s e p T e m b e r 2 6 , 2 0 1 3 aT 6 : 3 0 p m

In celebration of Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta 2013 Join us for an evening on the patio as Chef Patrick Gharrity serves up an amazing six course menu paired with wines from the talented growers of Fess Parker Winery. For the complete menu visit our website. For reservations please call 505-988-9232.

Open Daily 11:00am until 10:00pm 125 East Palace, Santa Fe, NM Telephone (505) 988-9232 WWW.LaCaSaSENa.COM

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

SEPTEMBER 2013

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Full Bloom Boutique

Oysters, Crab Claws & Shrimp 5:00pm to Close Daily

3J Workshop

Full Bar/Lounge Area Award-Winning Wine List Classic French Bistro Farmers Market Produce

Biya Johnny Was Komarov Comfy

Photos © Kate Russell

Join our e-newsletter at www.315santafe.com for specials, promotions & wine dinner updates.

Not Your Daughter’s Jeans

Fall merchandise arriving daily!

Provide us with your email so we can update you on upcoming events

and enjoy a free dessert! Sun-Thur, 5:00 -9:00 pm u Fri - SaT, 5:00 - 9:30 pm 315 Old SanTa Fe Trail u SanTa Fe, nm u www.315 SanTaFe.cOm reServaTiOnS recOmmended: (505) 986.9190

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La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa For reservations, call 505-954-9669 or 855-278-5276 (LAPO) 330 E. Palace Avenue, Santa Fe • laposadadesantafe.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

| The Flavorettes

| Around the World Flavors Jambo Café, Omira Grill, Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana, Pyramid Café, Jinja,

| Wonder Women 28

SEPTEMBER 2013

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Celebrate Indian Summer on our Patio

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A N I N V I TAT I O N T O C E L E B R AT E W O R L D - C L A S S MEALS PAIRED WITH P R E M I E R W I N E S AT T H E A N A S A Z I R E S TA U R A N T

Serving Dinner Nightly from 5:30

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Dinner Thursday, September 26th

Seatings beginning at 6:30 pm

Four-course prix ﬁxe menu created by

Executive Chef Juan Bochenski

and paired with a selection of

Jordan Vineyard and Winery’s

exquisite 2011 Chardonnay and

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Saturday & Sunday September 21- 22 10am to 6pm

Adults $10 • Seniors/Teens $7 Children 12 & Under: FREE!

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South of Santa Fe at El Rancho de las Golondrinas, New Mexico’s living history museum! Presented in partnership with

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Program support provided by the New Mexico Tourism Department: newmexico.org

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

Where Locals Go

Custom Homes, Inc. Since 1977 (505) 920-8445 • BobDiJanniCustomHomes.com

Joe’s signature Pizza Margherita

European-influenced locallysourced American comfort food

Job Opening!

“I wish you would open a Joe’s where I live (San Fancisco). I love this place.” – Recent Guest, Black Dog Open all day everyday 7:30am - 9:00pm Rodeo Rd at Zia | 471-3800 | joesdining.com

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Reservations: 505-983-3328

santafebullring.com • Now on opentable.com

Simply the best... a Santa Fe landmark!

SEPTEMBER 2013

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EEO/AAP employer

THE SANTA FE

culinary ACADEMY story by ERIN BROOKS | photos by KITTY LEAKEN

love to cook, but to date my culinary experience has been limited to a mediocre kitchen. You know, minimal counter space and one average-sized fridge. An electric stove that sometimes loses power for no reason. A single cutting board. It’s a real miracle that I’m able to conjure up six dishes for Thanksgiving dinner. So you’ll understand my amazement upon entering the newly built state-of-the-art facilities of the Santa Fe Culinary Academy (SFCA), located on the top floor of the Plaza Mercado building on San Francisco Street in downtown Santa Fe. The 5,000 square-foot academy includes a gorgeous studio kitchen for chef demos, three laboratory kitchens and a student restaurant, The Guesthouse. There’s also a fabulous balcony overlooking the Sandia, Sangre de Cristos and Jemez Mountains, which is available for private events and parties. Construction was completed in late 2012, and the inaugural class of the SFCA’s Professional Culinary Program begins in September.

Santa Fe Culinary Academy student Mathew Hartman

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

| Executive Chef Rocky Durham and Executive Pastry Chef Tanya Story

| Rocky and student Amy Leilani 32

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Santa Fe is home to other culinary training facilities; the pioneering (and always entertaining) classes given at Las Cosas School of Cooking and the cutting edge Restaurant Walk program and chef celebrity classes from the Santa Fe School of Cooking come to mind. Both of these schools provide classes and tours for locals and visitors that provide a taste of true local flavor. The Academy also has a strong community program in their curriculum but what is truly ground-breaking is their professional program which prepares students for a future in the food service industry. I ask the founders of the academy, Executive Chef Rocky Durham and Executive Pastry Chef Tanya Story, what makes it unique. “As far as we know there’s no program like this, period,” Rocky tells me as the three of us chat at a table in the studio kitchen. “There are our top notch community classes, but one of the things that really differentiates us from the others is that this is a professional academy. We’ve got thousands of square feet of professional kitchens here.” The SFCA is also unique in that it’s licensed by the New Mexico Department of Higher Education to run a post-secondary, higher-education facility. While it offers community classes and four- or five-day intensives, its professional program is for students who are serious about carving out a career for themselves. This is college, culinary-style. The SFCA’s professional program lasts one year and involves several hours a day of hands-on work, including weekly externships. It begins with a four-week intensive “boot camp,” during which students receive certification in sanitation and food safety as well as acquire a New Mexico Alcohol Server Permit. From here, students go through four rigorous rotations. The first involves the fundamentals of pastry, garde manger and à la carte cookery. Next, students become involved with The Guesthouse, the student-run restaurant, where they handle all aspects of daily operation. By the fourth rotation, students in the professional program are learning about much more than cooking; they are also trained in restaurant accounting, marketing and personnel management. And as Durham and Story point out, “In the fourth rotation the students are designing and implementing their own restaurant which will be open to the public.” “We’re not just teaching people how to make pretty food,” Rocky tells me. “We’re teaching them about finances and how the business works. Even if your food’s the prettiest in the world, if you can’t balance your books you’re a failed business. Whether you’re going to be working as a hotel pastry chef, the owner of your own food truck or you’re going to sell groceries for Shamrock Foods, you’re going to be very well prepared.” The SFCA will be different from other training facilities in Santa Fe in another key way: Rocky and Tanya are working to have the academy accredited. The accreditation process is long and arduous, spanning about three years’ time. The school has to graduate a class of students and continue running operations for an extended time period before it can even apply for accreditation. Next comes an audit, which will include detailed examinations of the school’s course materials, student files, etc. After all this, if the school successfully gains accreditation, it will then have to apply separately for Title IV accreditation, which allows students to apply for financial aid, student loans and grants. Making sure financial aid is available to students is extremely important to Tanya and Rocky. They want people, especially locals, to be able to afford to come to their school. Tanya also says accreditation is important, because they want the school to be well-respected. “Tanya and I give our personal seal of approval to these people,” Rocky says of the students. “We want our graduates to be the most sought-after industry professionals. Accreditation will be another accolade.” The long difficult process of accreditation is part of the reason no one has started a program like SFCA’s in Santa Fe, the pair point out, but also why there has been such an overwhelming display of community support for the program. They have already received funding from Charles Dale through the James Beard Foundation to sponsor a scholarship. Some of the new kitchen

equipment has been donated by Builders Source appliances. Fellow chefs and colleagues are eager for them to succeed, and the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau has expressed support. The academy will certainly bring new talent to New Mexico. In addition to the professional program, the SFCA will also offer community classes, four- and five-day-long intensives, and provide catering for events like parties and weddings. With this much versatility, the academy will, no doubt, become an important member of Santa Fe’s culinary community. Chefs will be able to send their staff in for training, and members of the community who just want to learn new skills will be able to come in for classes in subjects like knife skills and chocolate fundamentals. I ask Tanya and Rocky why they decided to open a professional culinary school. “The real mission within the professional program here,” they explain, “is to disseminate this excellence, first locally and then worldwide.” They discuss the economic downturn and how it has affected the restaurant business. “In the 1990s, all you had to do to have a successful restaurant was open your door,” Rocky says. Nowadays, restaurant owners are more cautious, but creativity has suffered. His eyes gleam behind his black, thick-framed glasses. “We are looking forward to people getting a little bit more creatively aggressive, seeing more friendly competition and a healthier restaurant community,” he says. “We have to maintain our position as a culinary destination city, because tourism is our lifeblood. You can do stuff like farmto-table and be creative and cutting-edge.” Chef Rocky and Chef Tanya’s philosophy about their work is another important aspect of the culinary training they intend to provide. Every aspect of the school will strive to be sustainable and responsible, from composting and recycling to a rooftop garden and detailed product knowledge. “Our mission is to use sustainable and humanely produced meats,” Tanya says. She emphasizes how much of the meat consumed in our country comes from animals that live in cramped and inhumane conditions and says she wants to show students that there are alternatives to this system. The pair is passionate about this aspect of the academy and will endeavor to use only ethically produced meat in their kitchen. They are also dedicated to sourcing as much produce as possible locally. “I want the SFCA to be a showcase for what’s going on locally with food,” Rocky says. “We really want to show the best of what New Mexico has to offer. This is a stage for the great things happening in our culinary community.” Tanya points out that the students graduating from their academy will be driving the market. Although students will enter the culinary community and make their own decisions, Tanya and Rocky want them to know that they do have choices. “You can have a relationship with the people who grow your food,” Tanya says emphatically. “It can be done another way.” Rocky agrees. “Our rights are being curtailed! You have to plant a garden. The most rebellious thing you can do these days is plant a garden.” Their enthusiasm is contagious; I’m already making plans for expanding my little garden, and I can’t wait to attend some of the SFCA classes soon. “We want to build community through food education,” Rocky and Tanya tell me, and I believe that’s exactly what their academy will achieve for Santa Fe’s culinary community, for professional chefs and home cooks alike. Our new culinary academy may also prove to be a turning point for Santa Fe, earning us a name in the wider culinary world. The Santa Fe Culinary Academy is located at 112 West San Francisco Street. 505.983.7445. santafeculinaryacademy.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

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S H E L T E R Building Futures...Changing Lives

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

story by JAMES SELBY

SEPTEMBER 2013

New York and L.A. aren’t the only cities, as Lily Tomlin quips, where you support your career as a server by working as an actor. As Frank Bond tells me, “I do two things really well: acting and bar tending.” Tall as Lincoln, he ducks beneath a shelf of single malts to step down into the sunken bar at The Compound, where since 2008 (and in between film roles), he’s been beverage manager. “My real wine education began on a trip to Spain with my dad for his sixtieth birthday. We went to Bodegas Numanthia, a winery in the Toro region, northwest of Madrid.” Named after an ancient Spanish city, the winery was started by the Eguren family in 1998 and brought Toro global attention for their full-bodied yet silky Tempranillos. “It’s a wine that’s great with food,” continues Frank. “I love turning people on to these over the obvious, more famous names on our list. Of course, it doesn’t hurt to try stuff for the first time where it’s made.” Far from the madding crowd, amid the Madrid townfolk on Highway 14 south of Santa Fe, is another great place. The Hollar is a roll-up-sleeves restaurant where the food knocks off socks. Andrew Wice left the wine bars of Williamsburg for the sanctuary of the Ortiz Mountains, where he is a server by night and an author by day. (To the Last Drop is his prophetic novel about a present-day water war between Texas and New Mexico.) Andrew changes the subject from water to wine. “I respond to wines defined by terroir, versatility and character. Layer Cake Primitivo is a modestly priced overachiever.” Made by Jayson Woodbridge, whose Hundred Acre is a cult (and pricey) Napa Cab, Layer Cake wines are produced and bottled under a common label in various regions of the world. “Suddenly,” says Andrew, “I’ve developed a terrible thirst.” Santa Fe can be a two-job town for many of its working class residents. Sabrina Ellen Svard clerks at Rancho Viejo Village Market (a wine and spirits shop) and pulls taps at the new Duel Brewing. “I chose Cline Cellars Ancient Vine Zinfandel,” says Sabrina, who once owned Pilates studios in New England. “Every Tuesday night after class, a couple of us would go to a great farm-fresh restaurant in downtown Kennebunk and share a bottle of Ancient Vine Zin.” Founder Fred Cline’s great-grandfather, Veleriano Jacuzzi, of spa and pump fame, settled in Contra Costa, California, in the late nineteenth century. In 1991, the family relocated to Sonoma. “Every time I see a bottle of Cline, I think of my friends in Maine,” says Sabrina. Bartender Chris Redmond has made the rounds—and served them—in some of Santa Fe’s topflight restaurants. Currently “on the stick” at Steaksmith, he tells me, “I remember the first taste of a 1997 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Fay Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. It was like an electric shock to my cranium. There was a delightful mouth-tightening tautness, yet rich and complex.” Named for grower Nathan Fay, the vineyard is one of Napa Valley’s best. Founded in 1970, the winery brought fame to Napa—and themselves—when their

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photo by Kate Russell

elebrations of the grape— its harvest and, naturally, its juice––first brought people and goblets together in the Bronze Age and have kept us gathering in hall and glade ever since. Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta may not have invented the wheel, but they have, assuredly, lubricated it. A Dionysian task and among the most prodigious wine events in the United States, the twenty-third annual fiesta convenes September 25 through 29, attracting eminent wine and food pundits and civilian connoisseurs from around the world, offering a sweeping expo of dinners, tastings, seminars, luncheons, auctions and impromptu clusters of like-minded folk. And if you aren’t paying attention, you’ll miss the reason we all show up. In past years, Local Flavor has honored the assembled masters of the vine, its winemakers and owners who put their name on the label and love’s labor into the bottle, along with the sommeliers, distributors and merchants who place those bottles in our hands. This year we toast another cadre of professionals who bring it to the table: the maitre d’ welcoming us, the bartender pouring our Prosecco, the server suggesting a pairing. We asked a few of the genuine articles, whose proficiency can make a repast memorable, what sparks their zeal and devotion to wine.

Luis Trancoso is a server with a continental grace and sincerity that elevates the position. “I grew up in Valladolid, not far from Cancun,” he says. “Vineyards were everywhere. As a boy, I’d play there, grabbing handfuls of grapes. A famous Mexican bullfighter lived in a hacienda where there were always grand parties, and I’d help set them up.” He pauses to look at the high ceilings of the Galisteo Bistro, where he works. “He had a cava, a wine cellar, bigger than this room. At a young age, I became aware of fine wine, like those of Miguel Torres.” It was there Luis first saw wines he relishes today, like Mas la Plana, from the Penedès in Spain, and Manso de Velasco, produced in the Chilean Curicó Valley, both Cabernet Sauvignons. Founded in Spain three centuries ago and still family-owned, Torres now has estates in California (Marimar Vineyards) and Chile. “Today in my town,” says Luis, “the hacienda and the vineyards are gone.” What remains is his regard for the inky treasures discovered in a matador’s cellar.

Cline Vineyards A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

The only store downtown offering a full selection of wine, select beer and premium spirits. first vintage of 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon shockingly (to the French, anyway) won the blind tasting now known as the Judgment of Paris, in 1976. Says Chris, “It was the first wine I ever had that was to be sipped instead of quaffed. Simply exquisite.”

Just a 100 yard walk from the plaza you’ll find over 2,000 wines from around the world. call us 505-982-2121 or stop by.

California’s Central Coast is an emerged region that maintains the simple integrity of its beginnings. Daniel Oesterling, who works at Ristra, says of Josh Jensen’s winery, Calera, “He’s truly a Pinot Noir specialist, particularly with single-vineyard, site-specific releases.” Calera, a longtime supporter of Santa Fe Wine and Chile, was founded in 1975. “I’m reminded when I taste his wine, year in and year out,” continues Daniel, “California Pinot can compete with any in the world. Burgundy included.” Marilyn Litton, a restaurant manager at Luminaria Restaurant in the Inn and Spa at the Loretto, reminisces about her time in the Central Coast area. “I always knew I loved wine, but it was the summer I went to Paso Robles that locked it in,” she says. “Each day, I spent with winemakers. It gave me a much broader sense of the industry. I’ll always remember what Gary Eberle [of Eberle Winery] told me, ‘We’re just farmers.’” In response to inquiries, a note arrived from James M. O’Neill, a restaurant manager and freelance wine consultant. He writes, “After a grueling wine march across southern Italy with a road crew of buyers and handlers from [importer] Winebow, I wound up in the home of Dr. Cosimo Taurino. The late doctor was a pioneering oenologist who put the region of Puglia on the map with a little-known grape, negroamaro, from the even littler known town of Salice Salentino. The region is very flat, the climate warm, and vineyard yields from red grapes grown there are abundant. However, white wine grapes are another story. Taurino was convinced he could grow Chardonnay in Puglia. When I sat down at my place at the dinner table, a colleague leaned over to me and whispered, ‘Don’t drink the Chardonnay.’ ‘Why,’ I asked? ‘Smell it,’ he said. As I lifted the glass the distinct aroma of turpentine rose up to burn my nose and cause my eyes to water. The lesson here: drink wine from where it grows well!” As for me, thirty years ago I had work that took me to France. I was a beer and tequila guy. I thought, “If I’m going to France, I’ll learn to drink wine.” I did. I drank wine in cafes and Champagne in my hotel room. Still, I didn’t catch on; the only thing I caught was a buzz. It wasn’t until meandering along the Loire River in a rented Renault did I first taste wine that came from where I stood, grown on vines I saw, labeled for towns I slept in: Sancerre, Chinon, Vouvray. Has any wine ever tasted so good? Wine is a global industry comprised of the mighty and the boutique. In trying to make sense of this macrocosm, we rely on glossy periodicals with scores and stars, books as thick as bibles, tasting room touts or anointed suits lecturing at wine dinners. We become intimidated by the metaphoric jargon, the poetry of wine, its geography and science, thereby constraining our own instincts. It never fails to amaze me that every year, halfway through the Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta, I stop amid the throngs, their voices, spirits and glasses raised, and realize what the event is truly about: people. Speak to your neighbor, be they winemaker or server, chef or citizen. Chances are you’ll have a glass of wine in your hand offering up its ceremony of the senses. And at that, each of us is an expert. 38

SEPTEMBER 2013

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DocMartinsRestaurant.com A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

story by GAIL SNYDER

photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

t was 2000 when the Rembe family first began to plan their expansion of the historic Los Poblanos Inn. Looking around the property, “we wondered,” says general manager Matt Rembe, “what new architecture could we possibly come up with that would measure up to this?” It’s a good question, when you consider who did the original remodeling and design: renowned architect John Gaw Meem. It’s difficult to overestimate the extent of Meem’s influence throughout New Mexico. We take for granted the exotic elements of our romantic Santa Fe style heritage. But without Meem’s intercession, the entire character of our state could have succumbed to “Anglo-ization” by Santa Fe city fathers after 1848, when New Mexico became a U.S. territory. By 1920, when Meem first arrived in the state capital, they had already torn down the portals surrounding the Plaza. One of Meem’s first steps was to reinstall them. “[It’s] because they were functional!” Matt says. “[Meem] really understood how to maximize our four seasons, how to get us outside. Portals protect pedestrians from rain and from blazing sun in the summer.” In a 1964 oral interview for the Smithsonian Archives of American Art, Meem says of Santa Fe’s inherited many thousand-year-old architecture, “It is absolutely native to America as no other architecture is, and that is worth preserving.” “He started out as an engineer,” Matt goes on. “So, along with these many, many beautiful design elements—the handplastered, rounded-edged walls, the quirkiness of different heights and widths, off-center placements and just the patina of New Mexico’s warm, crumbling adobe—Meem included so many good things that just made sense. High ceilings, cross drafts, hardwood floors. Different depths to each portal depending on which direction it faced. And great natural light! He made sure that there were beautiful views from each window.” Six of the new rooms in the Rembes’ design were carefully rendered in John Gaw Meem’s style. Rather than usurping all the attention, Meem’s structures gracefully enhance the landscape they inhabit and seem, in fact, to actually have arisen organically, straight up out of it, like living stories of place.

| On the left, Matt and his wife Teresa and their sons, Mateo and Max. In the center, Matt’s parents, Penny and Armin Rembe. On the right, Matt’s sister, Emily Benak, her husband Mark and their two daughters Isabel and Penny.

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

“Our idea,” says Matt, “was to tell stories through the architecture using two distinct vocabularies as precedence.” One common thread, going back to the 14th century, when Anasazi peoples lived in what is now Albuquerque’s North Valley, is culture. The other is agriculture and food. Under the stewardship of former owners, the Simms family, Los Poblanos Ranch during the 1930s and ‘40s was a model experimental farm, home to the original Creamland Dairies. The barn and dairy building(s) were still standing in 1976 when the Rembes bought the property. These vivid reminders, past and present, created the obvious choice for Los Poblanos’ other “vocabulary” of place. “Once you cross over the acequia,” says Matt, as we walk it ourselves to the other side, with the hay barn, the greenhouse, the original dairy, the animals, “you’re right in the middle of that fabric of agriculture and food.” The next step was choosing their team: historic rehabilitation architect Stefanos Polyzoides; Philadelphia-based landscape and urban design studio OLIN; high desert landscape designer Judith Phillips; and Chris Wilson, UNM professor of Cultural Landscape Studies and founding director of its Historic Preservation and Regionalism Program, and then reviewing farm buildings and barns of the era. “We wanted this to look like dairy buildings or bunkhouses where farmers once lived renovated to be 20th-century guestrooms,” says Matt. New Mexico agricultural buildings of the ‘30s, the team discovered, possessed the same classic sensibility as those found around the rest of the U.S.: “strictly functional and well-built, with clean straight lines, straightforward simplicity.” They wanted to pay homage to this aesthetic but without its looking clichéd, “so we designed in some quirkiness along the way –– a simple salt water swimming pool, for instance, solar heated, with a retro ‘40s feel, not too fancy, grapevines lining the fence on either side. The goal was to create what Matt calls “farmy elegance.” So many of Meem’s ideas translated to the 10 new rooms: high ceilings, big porches, cross draft and enclosed courtyards, each one leading you into the next for a continued sense of discovery. Attention to detail was meticulous. The new buildings’ heights were strictly monitored, for example, so that rather than blocking or obstructing historic structures, they nestle underneath them to look like part of the original farm groupings. The pitched roofs are corrugated tin, outside walls are tongue-and-groove aged wood planking. They used old corral fencing to create simple yet interesting textures for the inside walls. Trusses are exposed, beds large and comfortably inviting. Bathrooms are designed in a simple ‘30s style with clean, oversized white subway tile, cement floors and nice long bathtubs. “We wanted to include fireplaces,” Matt says, “but obviously they couldn’t be kivas. So we searched around until we found a ‘30s design from Galisteo, functional and square, and we situated them off-center mid-wall in each room to look almost like an afterthought.” Following Meem’s example, the art in each room is original work by New Mexico artists. And another Meem touch: lots of natural light provided by plentiful windows that open. “We were insistent on every single window having a view,” says Matt. “At first, our architect had his own ideas, but then he came back and said, ‘I hate to say this, but you know what? Landscape might be more important than architecture!’” Now, comforting, massive-trunked cottonwood trees, near-distant mountains, rippling fields, barn silo and birdsong are all invited inside. They, in turn, invite guests outside. The designers from Philadelphia-based OLIN were similarly impressed by the area’s natural features. “This acequia system is so exotic,” Matt remembers them saying, “such a primeval form of irrigating—really unusual in the U.S. Water flows to all parts of the property, and guests get to watch this gravity-fed 100-year-old system on a daily basis! Farmers,” they concluded, “are the best landscape architects. They understand how water flows.” Once the floor plans and designs were ready, the Rembe family gathered all those who took part in creating them, along with the entire inn staff, to participate in the charrette process, a giant brainstorming session in which, as Matt says, “there are no wrong answers. This way, the people who are actually in the trenches, working with the guests—the chef, the inn manager, the farmer— can give their feedback. This set the designers in the right direction really fast.” Everything came together quickly. Once the buildings were done, Matt himself shouldered most of the basic interior design decisions, “30 percent on the fly! But we were thrilled with the way the whole thing came out—in some cases even better than we envisioned.” Now they had only to wonder, would the resulting two vocabularies attract two entirely different types of guests? “People who love historic bed-and-breakfasts would certainly keep booking the John Gaw Meem rooms,” Matt says. “But would there suddenly be only these younger families from San Francisco booking the farm rooms?” But that all worked itself out. “Our guideline of trying to create beauty in abundance for this sublime experience applies to both types of rooms. There really isn’t a giant contrast,” he says, once you include such universal factors as the inn’s all-organic menu, with everything made from scratch on the kitchen’s original 1934 gas stove; the aromatic scent of lavender wafting in the open windows at night; the visceral experience of a real working farm. “For that reason, we’re the ultra agritourism destination. Guests can take a lavender distillation class or just stick their heads in when we’re doing it. They’ll see tractors, people walking by carrying big loads of just harvested vegetables. We have animals and kids’ school group tours.” Plus there’s food growing everywhere, not just in the fields but as part of the landscaping: huge rosemary bushes and other herbs, jujube, persimmon and fig trees, hops—all of it used in the kitchen. 42

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Matt and his siblings grew up in the inn, and their parents still live here, now in a new ag-style house whose upstairs is one big room of bunk beds for the grandkids. Both continually have their hands in the dirt; Penny Rembe also helps with flower arranging for the public spaces and giving tours, while her husband, Armin, a retired doctor, tends the bees. Matt’s siblings play an important role at the board level, which addresses “big picture” issues, including “how to get our kids more involved,” Matt notes, adding with a smile, “There are fewer child labor laws regarding your own children.” Matt is the selfdescribed “poor man’s CEO, COO, GM and construction project manager.” Under the Rembe family’s stewardship, the farming tradition of this living piece of New Mexico heritage continues. Regarding Los Poblanos’ commemorative farm buildings, Matt laughs, “We had to construct them to preserve it.” In a letter to Armin and Penny Rembe, Nancy Meem Wirth, Meem’s daughter, says, “Perhaps the best part of my visit was to see how much you both love and care for the place. It feels very close to the way it must have been when Albert and Ruth [Simms] moved there in the early ‘30s, only nicer.” Which makes sense, since, as Matt explains, “We channel John Gaw Meem all the time.” Los Poblanos is located at 4803 Rio Grand Boulevard NW in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque. 505.344.9297. lospoblanos.com.

Upcoming Special Dinners & Events Wine dinners, fiestas, and festivals! Please join us for these very special events. Seating and spaces are limited. Please RSVP by emailing reserve@farmandtablenm.com

Sunday, September 15 – Latin Street Food Fiesta with guest chef Phillip Beltran

Guest Chef Phillip Beltran and his team will partner with Chef Jaye and her team to create a fun, festive event that will bring East LA street food to the patio of Farm & Table! Street food-style stations will be set up on the patio for noshing and exploring. Live music, beer & wine, art & poetry will accompany this fun 10-course tasting!

6:30pm Mingle & 7:30pm Food | $70/person

Saturday, October 19 – Marigold & Harvest Festival

Join us for the 2nd annual celebration of local, sustainable, and accessible food. La Parada Mercantile, Farm & Table and Sol Harvest Farm will be featuring activities including: live music, produce stand, farm walk, hands-on crafts, workshops, games, yoga, food demonstrations, Decorated Bicycle Contest, fun shopping, and more. Please carpool or ride your bike.

10:00am - 4:00pm | FREE Community Event!

Tuesday, October 8 – Flora & Fauna: A five course dinner for the vegetarian and the carnivore

Join in on the Moveable Feast during Eat & Drink Local Month. Enjoy a mouth-watering culinary juxtaposition that will feature the best of our local bounty in two distinct menus: one all vegetable based and one animal based. Dinner will be paired with wine.

7:00pm Mingle & 7:30pm Dinner | $85/person

Tuesday, November 26 – Gratitude Dinner

Please join us as we gather around the table for a very special family-style dinner at Farm & Table. We will feast on five delicious courses centered on local ingredients – each paired with wine.

6:30pm | $65/person

Tuesday, December 31 – A Very SHERRY New Years Eve Dinner: An eight-course exploration of Sherry

Take a trip to the Jerez Triangle and join us for an adventure in Sherry drinking. Courses of Andalusian-inspired cuisine will be paired with the eight different types of Sherry, live Spanish guitar & special surprises.

6:30pm Mingle & 7:00pm Dinner | $95/person

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

The face, voice and link of Wine and Chile! Welcome to the ultimate insider’s look at the 23rd Annual Wine & Chile Fiesta. This year it’s even bigger!

Special online coverage and behind-the-scenes exclusives Live blogging from the Grand Tasting Stories you can share with out-of-town friends Get it all at: localflavormagazine.com/wine-and-chile-fiesta A Tas te

Me xic in Ne w of Lif e

Chile Wine&2013

Sa nt a

os co qu e | Ta in New Mexi bu qu erA Taste of Life Fe | Al 20 13 SE PT EM

1 SEPTEM

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Local Flavor: On the street, Online, or on your mobile device. in Santa Fe Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544 and Mary Brophy 505.231.3181 in Albuquerque Ashley Schutte 505.604.2547 and Stacey Hernandez 505.681.5842

localflavormagazine.com •

SEPTEMBER 2013

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Amethyst a healing space Special BioMat Sales Day: September 14 9am-5pm Free Shipping with Purchase

839 Paseo de Peralta Call for appointment: 505-670-3538 or 505-954-1002 www.amethystsantafe.com

50% off End of Summer Sale

CHUPAROSA including

SCALA seamless Open 7 Days a Week 227 Don Gaspar in the Santa Fe Village t 505-988-4116 c 505-670-5591 like us on us on

Life is good ...

pets

make it better. Santa Fe Animal Shelter. Adopt. Volunteer. Love. 983-4309 ext. 610

New Downtown Location

Open Everyday Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Authentic Mexican Food Serving Beer & Wine

New Location at 422 Old Santa Fe Trail (Next to the State Capitol)

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

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BLADES’ BISTRO

Don’t let the shopping center setting of this Placitas gem fool you. Blades’ Bistro serves up gourmet food with stunning views of the mountains and stars you won’t get in the light-flooded city. Festooned with hollyhocks, sunflowers and purple sages, this patio is a well-loved local treasure. 221 Highway 165 Suite L, 505.771.0695, bladesbistro.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

2013 Albuquerque

October 5&6 At the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center

It’s About More Than a Meal

It’s about community. Many of our friends and neighbors cannot afford proper nutrition, some are too sick to prepare their own meals, and others are at risk of complications from chronic disease simply because of their diets.

Make a difference in the lives of your neighbors, learn how at www.KitchenAngels.org or call 471-7780.

Attend Angels NightAngels Out - March 11 and Adventures a la18 Carte - July Attend Night Out on April

and Adventures a la Carte in July

PORCHES, PATIOS SAVOY BAR & GRILL

Savoy’s upscale outdoor space isn’t the biggest, but the the outdoor fireplace and the wisteria vines twining up and through the pergola turn an ordinary patio into an elegant area for dining or listening to live, local musical acts. Huddle around the heaters to extend the outdoor time in cooler weather. 10601 Montgomery Blvd. NE, 505-294-9363, savoyabq.com.

SANDIAGO’S AT THE TRAM

Funny thing about Sandiago’s at the tram’s patio: No mountain view. Instead, revel in the extraordinary view of the city (especially at night), volcanos and Mount Taylor. That’s reason enough to visit. Now toss in the delicious Mexican-style seafood and house-made margaritas. Happy hour, anyone? 38 Tramway Rd NE, 505.856.6692, sandiagos.com.

SEPTEMBER 2013

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Bike Riding in Santa Fe is very Challenging.

ElectroBiking Santa Fe

Rent some Assistance. ElectroBiking Santa Fe now offers the amazing pedal-assisted, Swiss designed, Stromer e:bike for rental. Bike riding in and around Santa Fe will never be the same once you experience the Stromer’s ride assisted power. Power-assisted Biking - Sales • Daily Rentals • Tours 328 S. Guadalupe Street on Montezuma, Suite H, Santa Fe | 505.819.5165 www.electrobiking.com santafe@electrobiking.com ElectoBikeRental-LocalFlavor-half-page.indd 1

8/26/13 7:36 PM

PORTALS KELLYS

Nob Hill’s street scene is front and center at Kellys, formerly the Jones Motor Company, a Route 66 Ford dealership and service station. Bring your dog, order a microbrew and gawk at the quirky heart of Burque as it parades along Central Avenue. Everyone passes by or through Kellys. Join them! 3222 Central Ave. SE, 505-262-2739, kellysbrewpub.com.

SEASONS’ ROTISSERIE & GRILL

With its view of Old Town, Seasons’ Rooftop Cantina is perfect for festive occasions. The food (much of it locally sourced), drinks and glimpses of Albuquerque’s glitterati keep residents coming back to gaze out over the tourists. Ask for the full menu if the rooftop choices are too limited. 2031 Mountain Road NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

Horseback Riding

SunSet RideS SunSet/Moonlight RideS

Broken Saddle Riding Company C e r r i l lo s , N ew M e x i co

Well trained & conditioned, smooth riding Tennessee Walkers & Missouri Fox Trotters

Walk, Trot, Canter or Gallop small groups • private rides

For more information or to make an appointment call:

Contemporary Jazz Chill - Latin Guitar Music You Won’t Find Anywhere Else in New Mexico!! Listen on-line: 1037theoasis.com or on your radio: FM 103.7 and now join us in Santa Fe on FM 95.9

505.424.7774 • www.brokensaddle.com

Send your resume and a cover letter to patty@localflavormagazine.com.

SEPTEMBER 2013

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Wendy McEahern

Fine wine, craft beer, select spirits & extraordinary treats!

last spaces for rent

A Tierra Concepts’ Creation

Contact Eric Faust 505.780.1159 Eric@TierraConceptsSantaFe.com www.pachecopark.com

• 970 sq' - 3,800 sq' available • ideal for office and retail • within walking distance to the Railrunner • boasts great amenities • restaurant on site • hi-speed internet • great landscaping • great neighbors • the owners are on site Visit Pacheco Park and see why this could be your best business decision ever.

September 2013 Pairing: 10% off Green Chile Cheddar or Green Chile Jack Tucumcari cheese with wine purchase from our fabulous selection must mention this ad for discount

Shop Hours: Mon-Sat 10am-8pm & Sun 11am-6pm 55 Canada del Rancho, Suite F Santa Fe, NM 87508 505-474-2828

ranchoviejovillagemarket.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

e often think of wine in terms of pairing it with food, but of course wine can also be an ingredient. A special kind of magic happens using wines in the kitchen; rich and complex flavors come out of hiding. This month we are blessed with the bounty of late summer gardens, including a plethora of chiles, in perfect timing for the annual Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta. We come together in celebration of time-honored traditions and ritual: the harvest, wine making, cooking and dining, and, now in its twenty-third year, the fiesta itself. Wineries from all over the country and culinary artists from Santa Fe will be here to show off their best in a broad range of events. The four chefs that are featured this month have all been on the cover of Local Flavor in the past and represent the best of the best. These wonderful recipes showcase a variety of wines, ingredients and technique—and each one is a signature recipe that you’ll be enjoying for years to come. I like to think of them as vintage Santa Fe.

from Eric DiStefano of Geronimo and Coyote Café 2 pounds fresh porcini mushrooms 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter 1 Tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 2 cloves garlic (minced) 1 cup Pedro Ximénez sherry salt and pepper sliced batard Brush clean and slice the porcinis, and lightly brown the butter in a sauté pan. Add mushrooms, thyme and garlic; sauté until mushrooms are browned. Add sherry and reduce by half over low heat. Salt and pepper to taste, and serve over buttered and lightly grilled slices of batard. Makes 4 servings.

Geronimo is located at 724 Canyon Road in Santa Fe. 505.982.1500. geronimorestaurant.com. Coyote Café is located at 132 West Water Street in Santa Fe. 505.983.1615. coyotecafe.com.

Photo: Kate Russell

There’s nothing like fresh-fresh. Eric, who has a source for porcinis that are picked in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains says, “Porcinis are a flash in the pan. You can substitute criminis, morels... But for now they’re in abundance. This year they’re pristine. With the cold nights we’ve been having, they’re prospering.”

SEPTEMBER 2013

ChampagneMustard Dressing from Martín Rios of Restaurant Martín 1 shallot (minced) 2 cloves roasted garlic 1 green apple (peeled and chopped) 1/2 cup Champagne 1/4 cup Champagne vinegar 1/4 cup sugar 2 bay leaves 1 Tablespoon white peppercorns 2 cups vegetable oil 1 cup olive oil 1/2 cup grain mustard salt and pepper In a saucepan combine the first eight ingredients and reduce to half over low heat. Strain and chill. When cold, transfer to a blender and purée by adding both oils slowly to emulsify. Transfer to a bowl and fold in the mustard. Season well. Makes 1 quart. “This recipe goes very well with the roasted beet salad on our menu. It gives a refreshing balance to the sweetness of the beets and the “tanginess” of the Belgium endive leaves. It can also perfectly accompany crab and watermelon salad. “ Restaurant Martín is located at 526 Galisteo Street in Santa Fe. 505.820.0919. restaurantmartinsantafe. com.

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Photo: Kate Russell

Fresh Porcinis Sautéed with Sherry

story by GORDON BUNKER

Portobello 48 from James Campbell Caruso of La Boca

from Mark Kiffin of The Compound 2 dozen Pacific Northwest raw oysters 2 cups Riesling wine 1 cup white sugar 1 cup water 3 Tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 small bunch micro greens

To prepare sorbet, combine wine, water and sugar and bring to fast boil. Remove from heat; let cool slightly and add the lime juice. Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to manufacturer’s instructions. Shuck the oysters with an oyster knife, slicing the raw oyster away from shell and place on iced plates. When ready to serve, scoop a tablespoon size amount of sorbet onto the oysters, top with micro greens and serve cold, immediately. Makes 4 servings.

2 cups Tempranillo red wine 3 cloves garlic (chopped) 4 large mushroom caps 1 Tablespoon rosemary (chopped) 3 Tablespoons Spanish extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper Toss ingredients together and marinate for 48 hours. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. For the custard:

1 cup light cream 1/2 cup milk 2 eggs 1Tablespoon parsley (chopped) 1/4 cup shredded Idiazabal cheese (slightly smoky Basque sheep milk cheese) salt and pepper Whisk all ingredients in a bowl. Rub the inside of four 3 oz. ramekins with olive oil. Fill each ramekin 3/4 full with custard mixture and bake in a covered water bath for 30 minutes. Light the grill. Remove mushrooms from marinade and grill on medium heat for about 3 minutes per side. Lay a mushroom on each plate and carefully remove custard from ramekin to sit on top of the mushroom. Makes 4 tapas.

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Mark comments, “Summertime is the perfect time for oysters and crisp white wine, so why not put them together? Here’s a simple way to showcase great oysters with a sorbet that melts, adds a wonderful luscious flavor and also keeps the oysters cold at the same time. The sorbet can be eaten by itself. A Muscat, Gewürztraminer or simple Pinot Grigio can also be substituted. It goes great with summer melon and cookies for a light outside dessert as well.”

For the marinade:

Photo: Kate Russell

Oysters On The Half Shell With Riesling Sorbet

Mushrooms marinated in Tempranillo for 48 hours, then grilled and served with sheep cheese custard.

James comments, “This is a popular vegetarian tapa from the menu at La Boca. We like the depth and earthy flavors of the mushroom and rich, leathery tones of the Tempranillo (which) penetrate the mushroom with the long marinating time. The grill adds smoke and it is finished with the luscious balance of the custard. Try it with a salad for an early fall dinner.” La Boca is located at 72 West Marcy Street in Santa Fe. 505.982.3433. labocasf.com.

The Compound is located at 653 Canyon Road in Santa Fe. 505.982.4353. compoundrestaurant.com.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2013

EST.

ORGANIC FARM

1932

LAVENDER PRODUCTS

field

fork

cork

LA MERIENDA DINNER

Wednesday-Saturday | 5-9 pm

By reservation only • www.lospoblanos.com • 505.344.9297

Good Taste! Good Time! The Compound Restaurant and The Wine & Chili Fiesta A Santa Fe Tradition LUNCH • DINNER • BAR Reservations 505.982.4353

653 Canyon Road

compoundrestaurant.com

Join our sister restaurant at the Wine & Chili Fiesta Grand Tasting... Tacos A&Taste Wine! SEPTEMBER 2013 of Life in New Mexico

3423 Central Avenue NE, Albuquerque • 505.255.TACO (8226) • www.zacatecastacos.com