LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals June 2020
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These past few months have been a very stressful time for everyone. Beauty businesses are facing unprecedented challenges and forced to change the way they live and work. Emotions are high, and many are worried as we navigate the unknown. Despite the hardships our industry is facing, it’s been amazing to see the community come together in support of each other. Many companies are shifting focus to support those fighting COVID-19 by donating masks, ventilators, and personal protective equipment. Estheticians are using their creativity to spur new ways to connect with their clients. From Instagram lives on-at-home skincare routines and virtual consultations to protocols on washing your makeup brushes, you all have managed to make light of these difficult circumstances. Going back to work will undoubtedly be a challenge, and
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there likely will be new guidelines and protocols to ensure staff and clients stay safe and healthy. Nonetheless, there is nothing our industry cannot face together. I encourage you all to stay positive, stay connected, and stay educated.
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June volume 35 number 6
contents From the Editor Advertiser Index
10 Beyond the Facial
16 Skin News
Vitamin C Efficacy
Spa of the Month
Dian Qi Gong Massage
Thriving with Technology
Organic & Wellness News
26 Thriving with Technology
51 Product Absortion Guide
10 Beyond the Facial
64 Dian Qi Gong Massage
Your Face Is Your Brand
Melt-Proof Summer Brows
In the Treatment Room with
Small Beauty Biz Buzz
Renée Rouleau 48
40 Your Face Is Your Brand
70 Melt-Proof Summer Brows
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Samantha Garcia samantha@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher firstname.lastname@example.org Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Carrie Borzillo Samantha Garcia Louis Silberman Anabel De La Vega
Kim Zen Eddie Omar, M.D. Ben Johnson, M.D.
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
skin Beyond the Facial
the Facial 10
Five skin treatments for everything BUT the face by Carrie Borzillo
The skin is the largest organ of the body, but both spa-goers and spa owners often focus just on the face and body. “Skin is the largest barrier against infection, so taking care of our skin from head to toe is important to prevent future concerns. We tend to focus on our face, neck, and décolleté because it’s easy to see and reach and ignore those more difficult to reach areas” says Ginger McLean, Director of Spa Operations at Rock Spa & Salon at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Atlantic City, New Jersey. Here are five treatments that take on everything but the face!
skin Beyond the Facial
treatment helps ease tension from the whole body. “It’s important for spa-goers to take a holistic approach to the treatments they choose. The body is a fully connected entity, with each part having a strong effect on the whole. Pada Hasta is a noninvasive way to help treat common circulatory issues and swelling within the body,” says the BodyScience and Ayurvedic Center Leader Dr. Mahalingam “Maha” Lakshmsnan.
SEXY BACK Let’s face it. The back is usually the last thing people think about when booking a spa treatment. But come summertime when the shirts are off (for the guys) and the outfits are skimpy (for the girls), a back covered with acne, dry skin, or just not glowing the same as the face is sure to stand out in a crowd. Luckily, the Rock Spa & Salon has a Sexy Back treatment ( 50 min., $135) holding no one back this bathing suit season. Why the back? Since the back is difficult to reach to properly clean, people are prone to clogged pores, dry, itchy skin, and acne. Back facials provide thorough deep cleansing and moisturizing to help reduce dry skin and restore luster. “We live in a world of selfies and social media, with a desire to present perfectly flawless skin. Having healthy skin is important for more than just creating the perfect selfie as it is our greatest barrier for prevention against external threats like environmental pollutants, UV rays, and harmful microbes,” says McLean. How it’s Done: The Sexy Back facial incorporates the same steps as a typical facial and is customized for your skin type. It begins with a thorough cleans12
ing and skin analysis, followed by an exfoliating scrub to remove dead skin, extractions if needed, toning, mask, and finishes with a light massage moisturizing application. “Our most popular cleanser combines the natural cleansing power of water and oil with a two-step deep action cleanser made from pure natural plant oils and quillaja extract to intensify the cleansing action without causing tightness. For more problematic skin and a deeper cleanse, we use a product with salicylic acid and provitamin B5 to refine the complexion leaving a fresh, clean appearance,” says McLean. Next up is a gentle mechanical peel to exfoliate with plant lipids, yogurt extracts, and shea butter to refine and moisturize. “Depending on your skin type, other ingredients might include power peptides, natural antioxidants, or hyaluronic acid. All help counteract negative environmental factors and leave the skin looking healthier, smooth, and with a youthful glow,” she adds.
PADA HASTA Pada Hasta is derived from the Sanskrit words “pada,” which means foot and “hasta,” which means hand. At BodyHoliday located in St. Lucia, West Indies, the Pada Hasta ( 50 min, $95)
Why the hands and feet? The focus is on the hands and feet because they consist of multiple reflexology points that promote health benefits throughout the body. The purpose of this treatment is to increase and strengthen blood and lymphatic circulation within the body. It’s recommended for diabetics and chronic smokers because poor circulation is one of the main health risks for both groups. “Strong blood circulation brings the necessary oxygen to the body, keeps vital organs healthy and functioning at optimum capacity,” says Dr. Lakshmsnan. How it’s Done: The masseuse uses heated organic massage oil and applies reflexology pressure via specialized massage movements to the hands and feet with special movements through the fingers and thumbs. “It has an extremely soothing effect on the circulatory system. These massage techniques remove energy blockages and create active energy flows, which strengthens the blood and lymphatic circulation, reducing swelling and fluid retention in the body, and ultimately re-energizes one’s arms and legs,” he adds.
THE INTENSIVE RELILAX ABDOMEN LIVE MUD TREATMENT Everyone talks about what a mud mask and lymphatic drainage can do for your face, but what’s below the neck also deserves the same attention. The Intensive Relilax Abdomen Live Mud Treatment (25 min, $65.61) at the Terme di Relilax
skin Beyond the Facial
Boutique Hotel & Spa in Rome, Italy, helps to re-oxygenate the tissues and combat excess fluids and fats that build up in the lower body. The all-natural targeted mask infused with soy, caffeine, and green tea extracts gives the body a brighter, tighter, and more toned look than before. Why the abdomen? Aside from the aesthetic aspect of what a mud mask does for the skin, there are many health benefits as well. “The abdomen represents the part of the body that contains and supports most of the organs responsible for digestion, nutrition, and elimination and is connected to the respiratory part through the diaphragm muscle. These characteristics must be taken into serious consideration because they determine important consequences in the health and image of the body in every age group,” says owner Consuelo Braggion. How it’s Done: The treatment begins with a lymphatic drainage massage. Lymphatic drainage of the abdomen is crucial to stimulate blood and lymphatic microcirculation. In synergy with the effects of lymphatic drainage, they use an intensive mud, which performs a localized action by treating the area of the glutes, abdomen, and thighs up to below the knee. A tonic lotion with acidic pH and stabilized Vitamin C is used on the areas to be treated to prep the epidermis, followed by a concentrated fluid formulated with plant extracts, as well as phytosomes, caffeine, and proteins which catalyze lipid metabolism and promote the reduction of localized fat. “Above the application of the fluid, we spread a compound created with solutions that promote vascular gymnastics (hot and cold feeling for an effect of vasoconstriction and alternating vasodilatation) and caffeine solutions, which mixed with an Alginate powder and mature mud, create a soft vegetable cast with an occlusive effect. This increases the absorption of the
previously applied active ingredients, helping the drainage of liquids,” explains Braggion.
SOOTHING HEAD MASSAGE The Soothing Head Massage ( 60 min, $249) treatment offered at Sense, A Rosewood Spa at Hôtel de Crillon located in Paris, France, is not only good for the skin on the scalp. It’s primarily intended for relaxation, alleviating stress, improving mood, and even for conquering burn-out and jet lag. It’s in the spa’s “Lost Remedies” category because it combines traditional Parisian healing practices with modern products and techniques. “The tradition in this treatment is the use of peppermint and lavender essential oils, as these have been used in France for their beneficial properties for years,” says Spa Director Marlène Belvalette. Why the scalp? While maintaining one’s locks is part of everyone’s health and beauty routine, many neglect the
skin underneath. “It is incredibly important to keep the scalp nourished in order to maintain healthy hair, as even a small issue such as dry skin can lead to larger problems, including hair loss,” says Belvalette. How it Works: The client first chooses one of four oils sourced from the French countryside. It starts with a breathing exercise using lavender and peppermint essential oils before embarking on a comprehensive head and neck massage with the chosen oil, which moves from the scalp down to the shoulders. Other than the calming benefit of lavender and peppermint, they are also used for their medicinal benefits. “The lavender is used to moisturize the scalp while also boosting hair growth. It also helps to soften brittle hair and provides a natural shine. Peppermint has also been known to help with dryness of the scalp, which leads to itchiness and other scalp problems. Additionally, it can be used to help combat hair loss,
skin Beyond the Facial as the menthol aids in blood circulation in the area,” she continues. The treatment ends with a signature fresh mask onto the eyes for deeper relaxation.
WELCOME FOOT BATH RITUAL To get the guest relaxed and ready for their treatments, the Sense, A Rosewood Spa, at Rosewood Miramar Beach in Montecito, California, offers a complementary five minute Welcome Foot Bath Ritual. “The foot bath is a sign of trust and respect between the therapist and the guest. This ritual has a long-standing history and various methodologies. This ritual has been performed all over the world, in some format, and was primarily designed as a welcoming ceremony to purify, cleanse energy and display hospitality,” says Director of Spa Karina Chung. Why the feet? Let’s face it. Feet take a beating every day and are often the last part of the body people tend to. “It is a huge misconception that we should apply all treatments and products solely to the face. Spa-goers should focus on all parts of the body, as areas of neglect will begin to show as we age, especially the feet, legs, back of hands, and neck. The goal is to age gracefully and maintain healthy, supple skin throughout, starting with smooth, moisturized and beautiful legs and feet,” says Chung. before
How it’s Done: After relaxing the client with a warm neck wrap on the neck and shoulders, the foot bath is prepared with a blend of Himalayan and locally-sourced mineral salts, California sage essential oil and ground sage leaves. “This cleansing step allows the feet to soak in the benefits of the salts, which balance the alkalinity in the body, and of the sage plants, which draw out toxins,” she says. The therapist then guides the guest through a meditative, slow breathing technique. A sage mist is sprayed into the air around the guest’s body and inhaled for a grounding feeling. “With this, we honor the native tradition of using sage to purify the energy of the space,” she continues. Then, a light exfoliation of the feet follows with a handmade scrub blend of locally-sourced mineral salts, citrus, and ginger—which are elements found in the area that have been used medicinally for centuries. The scrub helps to soften the heels and further cleanse the feet. The final step is rinsing off the scrub with water from the sage foot bath and drying the guests’ feet with a towel.
Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com. 14
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The Life in Balance Spa at Miraval Arizona
Elevate your experiences and nurture your entire being
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Samantha Garcia
With over one hundred one-of-a-kind spa treatments, growth and development workshops, outdoor adventures, and healthful cuisines, Miraval Arizona defines the true essence of Wellness. Situated north of Tucson, AZ, in the Santa Catalina Mountains, guests can find themselves immersed in an array of transformational experiences that balance the mind, body, and soul. The award-winning inclusive destination resort is frequently recognized by Conde Nast Traveler and Travel + Leisure. This is primarily due to the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innovative efforts so that no stay at the resort is ever the same as its last. Guests can enjoy outdoor experiences like mountain climbing and biking. They can breathe, flow and fly in aerial yoga, or participate in wellness counseling with renowned wellbeing experts to create their lasting blend of balance. There is a myriad of possibilities for guests to escape and reconnect with their inner selves, including the services offered at Life in Balance Spa. From facials performed by estheticians who created them to ancient therapies combined with modern techniques, each treatment is designed to help guests unwind, relax, and renew.
spa Spa Of The Month
Signature Treatment One of the most popular treatments at Miraval Arizona is the Vasudhara (50 min, $285), where guests are invited to embrace the weightlessness of water. This unique service includes profoundly relaxing stretches of Thai massage while suspended in a pool of water. “Guests’ eyes are shielded to block all light, and the water is heated to body temperature while sounds from underwater speakers envelop their senses. The intention of the experience is to abandon all external focus and to embrace the vast landscape within,” says Simon Marxer Director of Spa and Wellbeing. This experience lengthens the muscles and opens the joints for guests to discover the abundance that lies within.
Global Healing Practices From Vasudhara and Thai Massage to Reiki and Acupuncture, the Life in Balance combines ancient traditions with time-honored techniques to stimulate the body’s natural healing abilities. Nâga, evolved from the healing principles of Thai Massage, uses strands of hanging silks to take the body into deeper stretches. Craniosacral thera22
py optimizes the flow of cerebrospinal fluid to nourish further and protect the nervous system and brain. The Qi Grounding treatment utilizes Chinese medicine and acupuncture to help guests feel grounded and centered. In addition to these services, there is an assortment of Ayurveda treatments derived from India that treat the root causes, not the symptoms. These services include the Shamana- Karma, which purifies and boosts immunity and spirit, and the Abhyanga, which restores balance with herbal oils that benefit the nervous system and reduces muscle tension. Facials and skincare services include the new Kombucha Facial to nourish and soothe the skin, the Sun Goddess Facial for sensitive skin types, and the Probiotic Healing Facial to support the skin’s natural beauty. The Miraval exclusive Cara Vida facial is inspired by the Native people of Arizona and their connection to mesquite, translated as the tree of life that provides nourishment, protection, medicine, and warmth. These treatments are promised to leave guests glowing with new life.
To enhance the experience even further, guests are invited to take their services outside at The New Life Village. Targeted therapies and relaxing rituals like the Deep River Stone Massage and Sweet Slumber are not only inspired by nature but performed among it.
Marketing More and more people are incorporating wellness activities into their everyday lives, which is why it’s no surprise that the fundamental tenets of Miraval are widely embraced. The spa works diligently to provide compelling programs and experiences that meet the evolving needs of its guests. Marxer says, “We focus our energies on sharing the possibilities of a Miraval stay, for a personal and unique wellbeing experience.” This not only attracts guests who are new to the brand but repeat guests who have still yet to enjoy other experiences. All of the buzz is captured online through the resort’s social media page showcasing the destination’s unique adventures from beekeeping to equine immersion. However, Assistant Director
spa Spa Of The Month
of Marketing, Heather David, and the Miraval Arizona Life in Balance Spa Director, Heidi Mullen, believe that the spa is one of the central features of the Miraval Arizona experience. You can find the desert spa sanctuary featured heavily online while also featuring high profile influencers to gain even more traction. In addition to social media, the spa uses a variety of marketing tactics, including advertising, print media, email marketing campaigns, direct marketing, and promotion of special packages.
Training To give guests the level of service they deserve, training begins by experiencing the magic of Miraval firsthand with a stay at the resort. By being immersed in the experience, the staff can see the resort from the perspective of the guests. By having an individualistic approach to training, the team first connects with
themselves, which allows them to connect with the guests and provide exceptional experiences in a manner that is authentic to them. Marxer believes this is what makes the Miraval stay so remarkable because it is “cultivated and delivered by people who bring their passion and their gifts to work every day.” This level of engagement is supported by regularly reflecting on the staff and their performance and providing development-oriented feedback. “We first gain a better understanding of their ‘why” for choosing to devote their working life to Miraval, and we cultivate a shared understanding of what success looks like in their roles. This shared understanding establishes our path forward and our milestones for success.” The same approach is also used to incentivize the staff, with the goal of fulling the individual needs and de-
sires of the employee. “What matters most to them? How do they like to be rewarded for a job well done? The rewards vary between spa treatments, retail spa items, paid days off and/or cash,” says Mullen. In addition to providing these acts of encouragement, the spa recognizes that maintaining an engaging, fun, and inspiring work environment is also essential.
Special Events and Promotions The Life in Balance Spa at Miraval offers holiday specials and promotions based on certain times of the year. Guests can book a couples’ treatment for Valentine’s Day or gift a promotional Mother’s Day package in May. Additionally, there are packages offered year-round like the Signature Experience, which provides an all-access pass to any activity, private session, or spa service. When booking the Girls Getaway package, guests can receive LNEonline.com
spa Spa Of The Month with indoor and outdoor lounge spaces, an outdoor sea salt pool and an outdoor pool and hot tub. There is also an Oasis Pool Bar where guests can order snacks, smoothies and drinks. Revenue Composition: 77 percent massages and bodywork, 15 percent skincare.
a complimentary $150-morning spa treatment and 20 percent off all retail purchases. All-day packages include full access to the Life in Balance Spa and Body Mindfulness Fitness center, in addition to a gourmet lunch at the Cactus Restaurant and endless activities like group photography and hands-on culinary workshops.
Miraval Arizona Resort & Spa 5000 East, E Vía Estancia Miraval Tucson, AZ 85739
Revenue and Retail
Opened: February 2019
Much like the luxurious services provided, the Life in Balance Spa offers not only the best retail products in the marketplace but products that align with its values of mindfulness. The resort spa selects partners that “provide the support and inspiration for our guests to author their own wellbeing story,” says Marxer. These brands include Naturopathica, Zents, Laurel, and EmerginC. When it comes to incentivizing clients to buy these products, the Marxer doesn’t believe in any approach beyond “bringing together the best offerings in any environment that prioritizes education around how to incorporate products into your selfcare practice.”
Director of Spa and Wellbeing: Simon Marxer Miraval Arizona Director of Spa: Heidi Mullen Facilities: 29 treatment rooms in total, including 23 indoor and six outdoor rooms, 12 massage service rooms, one Thai massage room, five facial rooms, four wet rooms, one VIP Spa Suite, two Naga Thai studios and one Aqua Zen Pool. Additional amenities include saunas, steam rooms, indoor hot tubs, a Spa Solarium with a private outdoor patio for women, a full salon with one hair station, three pedicure stations and two manicure stations, a quiet room
Spa Director Spotlight After more than 20 years of experience, Simon Marxer joined Miraval Group as Director of Spa and Wellbeing. He currently oversees all spas and creates new and innovative treatments and services that uphold Miraval’s longstanding position as a pioneer and thought leader in the spa space. Prior to this position, Marxer worked at Red Flower, a luxury beauty brand, where he was the Vice President of Business Development. Before joining Red Flower, Marxer served as the Spa Director at Miraval Arizona. While working at the property, he oversaw the spa’s renovation and rebranding and conceptualized the design and launch of over 40 signature Miraval-branded services. Marxer has also served as the Spa Director of The Boulders Waldorf Astoria Collection, Managing Director of Cornelia Day Resort and the Spa Director of Canyon Ranch. Marxer has a Bachelor of Arts from University of Vermont.
WITH TECHNOLOGY Top 10 med spa technologies of the past decade by Louis Silberman
The past decade has been an incredibly exciting time in the med spa industry. Advancements in technology have blown the market wide open for minimally invasive procedures that deliver noticeable results with little or no downtime— and clients can’t seem to get enough. Let’s take a look at ten of the most popular medspa technologies of the past decade.
spa Thriving with Technology
weight gain and loss, pregnancy, hormonal changes, and weightlifting. Laser stretch mark removal works by using a fractional laser that scatters pulses of light over the treatment area, creating microscopic, fractionalized columns within the skin that immediately generates the body’s natural healing process, stimulating collagen and fading the appearance of stretch marks.
5. FRACTIONAL LASER Fractional laser delivers both ablative and non-ablative wavelengths to the same or different treatment zones, providing ablative results with non-ablative downtime. Fractional laser treatments are ideal for treating sun damage, freckling, and correcting minor tone and texture issues.
6. MICRONEEDLING 1. LASER HAIR REMOVAL Laser hair removal (or, more accurately speaking, laser hair reduction) remains one of the most in-demand cosmetic laser treatments, with continued growth in the industry. Clients love it because, unlike shaving, waxing, and plucking, it doesn’t have to be done every day— saving time, mess, and in the long run, money. Laser hair removal works by using safe and effective laser technology to target pigmented hair follicles within the skin; the laser light damages the follicle and prevents hairs from growing back. Laser hair removal can be used on most skin types and most body parts.
2. INTENSE PULSED LIGHT (IPL) PHOTOFACIAL This skin rejuvenation treatment is ideal for improving tone and texture and correcting hyperpigmentation. It’s popular because it’s quick, affordable, nearly painless, and effective. Photofacial treatments work by using specific wavelengths to improve skin concerns while stimulating collagen and improving connective tissue. IPL can be used to treat sun damage, rosacea, broken cap28
illaries, certain types of acne scarring, freckling, and age/dark spots, and can be used on almost any area of the skin. Many clients find that a series of three Photofacials spaced several weeks apart yields optimal results.
3. LASER TATTOO REMOVAL Did you know that approximately 25 percent of Americans have at least one tattoo? And the number one reason people get tattoos removed is so they can get another one in its place. Laser tattoo removal uses Q-switched technology, which emits light and energy to the tattoo’s pigment, breaking it down into microscopic pieces that are safely flushed out through the body’s lymphatic system. Most clients need 10-15 treatments (or more), depending on the size, color, and location of the tattoo.
4. STRETCH MARK REDUCTION Stretch marks form when the skin is stretched past its typical capacity, leaving behind tears within skin tissue. They form for several reasons, including rapid
Microneedling skin rejuvenation is designed to reduce the appearance of skin imperfections. Tiny needles are used to create controlled micro-injuries to the skin to stimulate collagen and elastin growth. Microneedling can be used with hyaluronic acid and other skin revitalizing serums that sink deeper into the skin. This is the best treatment for melasma because no heat is involved. It also helps with lines and wrinkles, sun damage, acne scars, and stretch marks.
7. ACNE REDUCTION Broadband Light uses a unique filter that creates a “blue light effect,” which can destroy the bacteria that forms acne. Photothermal energy also targets pigments within the skin, such as brown spots and redness, and evens out skin tone. It can be used to treat several types of acne, including red pimples, cystic acne, pustules, acne scars, active acne breakouts, and facial redness caused by acne.
8. HYDRAFACIAL This treatment uses traditional dermabrasion technology. But rather than blasting the skin with gritty particles, it gently vacuums pores for the ulti-
spa An Industry Thriving with Technology
mate cleansing experience. The handpiece’s “vortex technology” spins away dirt, grime, and dead skin cells while simultaneously infusing the skin with serums that are designed to brighten and plump. These “boosters” can perform a number of functions, including lightening brown spots, reducing the appearance of fine lines, and targeting acne. Clients of all ages love this very popular treatment.
9. FREEZING TECHNOLOGIES FOR FAT REDUCTION Freezing technologies for treating unwanted fat and body sculpting have become increasingly popular in the past few years. This treatment uses controlled cooling to eliminate stubborn fat that won’t go away even with diet plans and fitness routines. Fat cells are targeted deep within the skin while leaving surrounding skin undisturbed. The treated fat cells are crystallized, die off, and over time, eliminated by your body’s lymphatic system. Clients are flocking to freezing technologies
as a means of achieving an improved physique while at the same time, avoiding surgery, anesthesia, invasive techniques, and significant downtime— things that are typically associated with traditional liposuction.
10. MMS AND HIFEM FOR BODY CONTOURING Magnetic muscle stimulation (MMS) can be used to tighten and tone muscles without spending hours at the gym. Electromagnetic energy is zapped into muscles, causing them to contract and relax repeatedly for a more defined physique. High Intensity Focused Electromagnetic Energy (HIFEM) is a similar technology used to tighten and tone muscles. Both of these treatments are quickly gaining popularity among clients who want to perfect their form without bulking up. Craving ripped abs and a flat tummy? Both of these treatments deliver, and as an added bonus, they’re quick, painless, and there is no downtime required.
Summary When I opened my first med spa fifteen years ago (and soon after, a cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center), I could not have imagined how significantly improved technology would impact our industry. Today’s treatments keep getting better and better—they’re now more affordable, more comfortable, require less (if any!) downtime, and are sought by men and women of all ages. Cheers to the Top 10!
Louis “The Laser Guy”
Silberman is CEO of National Laser Institute, a national cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center founded fifteen years ago, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale and Dallas. He’s the author of Make It Happen Online and a motivational marketing speaker. Silberman created the sixth most visited health/beauty website and was a semi-finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. Contact him at email@example.com and follow him on Instagram at louisthelaserguy.
REOPENING How to move forward safely after COVID-19 by Samantha Garcia
Perhaps you have been given the go-ahead to reopen your business. Or maybe that time is approaching for you, and you are taking steps to prepare. While there is plenty of uncertainty that lies ahead, one thing is sure. There will be a new normal after COVID-19, and whether it’s temporary or indefinite, you will need to adjust for the betterment of your business. There’s no doubt that estheticians and spa professionals are equipped to provide a safe space for their clients. But there will be a lot to consider before you open your doors again. Whether that be new booking policies or additional sanitation practices, it’s time to strategize how your business will work amidst this global pandemic.
spa Spa Reopening
Establishing New Policies for Your Staff and Clients
Adhering to Local, State, and Federal Guidelines There will undoubtedly be a number of restrictions on businesses that are a part of the service industry. Wearing masks and proper protective equipment will be one of them. You may need to limit capacity at your spa or prohibit walk-ins to allow for social distance. You should also expect to cap the number of appointments you see in a day. Even further, the amount of time between those appointments to avoid overcrowding and allow time to disinfect and clean before your next appointment. Other guidelines may include temperature checks and COVID-19 screening questions. There may even be limits to the types of services you can provide to reduce contact.
Proper Sanitation Standards When it comes to dealing with infection control, the esthetic industry is one of the most prepared industries. In fact, developing good sanitation practices are a prominent part of esthetic education. However, new cleaning protocols 32
and social distancing guidelines will need to be put into place to not only keep the staff and your clients safe but provide additional reassurance and trust between you and your clients. Before opening your spa, be sure to safely and effectively sanitize all communal areas, soft surfaces such as rugs and carpet, electronics, and tools. For hard surfaces, use an EPA-registered disinfectant to disinfect high-touch surfaces like doorknobs and light switches. Be sure to use soap and water or the appropriate cleaners for soft surfaces. Now is also the time to discard of any non-essential items in the waiting room, like self-serve coffee or magazines. Once your spa is open, be sure to disinfect the reception counter, creditcard machine, door handles, and any common areas every 1 to 2 hours depending on traffic. Provide hand sanitizer at the front desk and at all stations for clients and staff to use. To put guests at ease, consider placing cards that read something like “This area has been disinfected” or “Feeling clean.”
Sanitation practices aren’t enough to keep your clients and staff healthy without proper hygiene and social distancing efforts. Now is the time to put new policies into place and update your employee handbook. Be sure to include state and federal mandates so that they are fully understood. Policies for staff may include washing their hands before and after each appointment, using disposable gloves or face masks, coughing and sneezing into their arms, and disinfecting every product and equipment used during an appointment. Try to find ways to minimize contact as much as possible. For example, creating a policy for staff to greet guests with a no-touch welcome ritual or greeting instead of a handshake. Furthermore, having your team notify clients when they have washed their hands. This will cultivate a safe environment for your clients to want to come back. Modify your booking policy only to allow booking online and over the phone. If possible, begin with virtual consultations to reduce contact time. Establish a pre-pay policy to reduce time at the front desk and to protect your spa from no-shows. If a client is feeling sick, reconsider cancellation fees, and encourage him or her to stay home. The last thing you want is a client with COVID-19 powering through to get to their service. The same should go for your staff. You must reiterate the importance of the team monitoring themselves for signs and symptoms of COVID-19. If an employee is feeling sick, encourage him or her to stay home. You must also come up with a plan of action if an employee or client exhibits symptoms.
Getting Your Staff Back to Work You may have been forced to furlough or lay off employees. Either way, you will need to consider your staffing
spa Spa Reopening
needs upon return. You may not need as many employees as you did before. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to let employees go. Consider having your staff work in rotating shifts to minimize the number of people in your business. It is also essential that you check in with your staff and their current situations. Some may have children at home, and some may have found new work. If you are continuing virtual consultations, assign some work to do at home to best accommodate everyone’s schedules. Once you have your staff established, you must hold a meeting to discuss new protocols and policies so that everyone is one the same page. You can also host training to ensure that your staff is fully aware of the proper sanitation protocols. In addition to their handbooks, provide them with as many educated resources as possible. For example, a list of frequently asked questions and answers to help ease client fears. Invite your employees to share their thoughts and concerns. They may be able to provide ideas that you wouldn’t’ have thought of otherwise. Cultivate a safe space for everyone to share their fears and anxiety, and offer your support as needed. Integrate weekly check-ins and consider well-
Dr. Jeff Collagen Treatment with Freeze-Dried Collagen Mask
Skin Care Products
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ness events online that your team can participate in to boost morale. You want to make sure that everyone is remaining healthy physically and mentally.
Reengaging Your Clients Let your clients know you’ve opened by sending out a mass email. Make sure the email includes what safety and cleaning measures you have decided to implement, information about appointment scheduling, and any updates on prices and services. Another thing! Revaluate your services and update your menu, and only offer your most profitable services for the time being. In your email, you can also include special offers and promotions, as well as new products! Have you been using social media to keep your clients updated? Make an Instagram or Facebook announcement that you are open or are preparing to open for business. Share Instagram videos with staff as you disinfect common areas. Let your clients know they are walking into a safe space. Have fun with it! Maybe even use this time to have your staff work on each other and practice new protocols. You can post Instagram photos of them beautified with fresh looks to get your clients excited about their appointments. As clients come back, encourage them to share pictures with you of their newly done brows and glowing skin. Trust me, girls will be boasting online about their first-ever treatment post-quarantine! Make sure they tag you!
Be Prepared for Another Closure The first shutdown was unexpected, and many of us were unprepared. As you ease back into business, make sure that you are prepared for another closure to happen. You want to be sure that all of your finances are in order and that you have virtual or retail services available if people are forced to work from home again. Continue to utilize virtual services so that your clients remember you for them later. Stay connected as much as possible through social media! Not everyone will feel comfortable going back to the real world. You want to make sure that there are ways that they can connect with you beyond your spa. With a strategic and cautious approach to reopening, you can ensure that your spa comes back stronger. Follow other estheticians online and see what they are doing to get back to work, and lean on each other.
Beauty Attica, Inc.
1180 E Francis St, Bldg F Ontario, CA 91761, USA Fax: 1-909-923-0812
Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Web: www.dr-jeff.com
Samantha Garcia is the Managing Editor for LNE & Spa Magazine. She has a passion for writing, social media and content marketing. She believes that high-quality, consistent and engaging content helps brands establish themselves as leaders in their industry. Please connect with her at email@example.com
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NEWS MLX i3Dome - The Ultimate Detox Booster The Gharieni Triple Detox Therapy „MLX i3 Dome“ is the new generation of detox treatments. Combining Far Infrared technology with Plasma and Light, this spa table offers 3 ultra-effective detox treatment methods in one.
Virox ProBeauty Launches New Rejuvenate® Readyto-Use (RTU) Spray A EPA registered hospitalgrade disinfectant, this spray is an easy to use format with no dilution required. The solution disinfects in as little as 1 minute, 10x faster than competitive products, offering beauty professionals quick treatment room turnovers.
Thermage Skin Tightening Treatment Using radiofrequency technology, Thermage is a non-invasive treatment that smooths, tightens, and contours skin in a variety of areas on the face and body, including under the chin.
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Equipro Auto-Clave The Auto-Clave is a compact unit with a sterilization system for instruments calibrated at 250Â°F. It is equipped with a user friendly touch pad and a sterilization indicator. It is definitely the best equipment if you want to sanitize your tools in less than 21 minutes!
Monique Mathieu Uniform Masks are Available Reusable and washable masks for your staff available for bulk purchase. Childrens masks are available as well!
Summer Refresher Facial
Your Face IS Your Brand Using personal branding as a business strategy by Louis Silberman
One of the best business quotes is that “people buy from people.” They don’t buy from big faceless companies, and in our industry, especially where services are so highly personal, they aren’t randomly buying products and services. Although the aesthetics world offers thousands of great products, hundreds of different types of services, and multiple convenient locations, ultimately—people buy from people.
business Your Face Is Your Brand
And as a small business owner or employee, what better way to market your esthetics business than with your face? Whether it’s your energy, style, or knowledge that makes you unique, your brand will resonate with clients more when there is a face behind it.
THERE’S ONLY ONE YOU When it comes to marketing your business, one of the most important things you can do it determine your point of difference. In a sea of beauty services, what makes you and your personal brand different from everyone else’s? Do you have a killer sense of humor? Are you sincere and soft-spoken with a voice people love hearing? Are you a bit vulgar and love to add shock value to your reviews and commentary? How would people describe you? Anyone who knows me knows that I’m the guy who is very hyper, rah-rah, always pumped up and ready to go. I’m sure some people think I either have a Red Bull addiction (or something worse), but I assure you, that isn’t the 42
case. It’s just my natural energy and my enthusiasm for this business on a very deep level. Some people love my vibe; others clearly do not. They say I talk too fast, or too loud. And that’s okay. Whatever you put out there from your own heart will also be either accepted or rejected; loved or loathed. That’s okay, too. You can’t marry every person you date. You have to embrace who you are and not be afraid to put your point of difference on the line.
Bonus: maybe I can start writing-off the cost of his food. Stand out as the super chic esthetician who always wears head-to-toe black. Or the eccentric skincare guru who wears interesting earrings or funky glasses. Or has a lot of visible tattoos! Perhaps you will be known as the lash fairy with gorgeous eyebrows and eyelashes. Even if your company’s policy requires you to wear a boring uniform, you can still find ways to be memorable.
STYLE, BABY, STYLE
If you were genetically blessed with beautiful skin, you’re in the right industry! People will inevitably notice how beautiful your skin is and comment on it. This is the perfect opportunity to tell prospective clients about the products and services that you use personally and also sell. But what if you weren’t born with great skin? What if you suffered terribly from acne all throughout your teenage years? Or if, after having a couple of kids, feel really embarrassed by stretch
MAKE IT PERSONAL, TOO Don’t be like everyone else, and don’t look like them, either! Find a dressing/ uniform style that reflects what you like and makes you feel the most comfortable in your own skin. I’m known for wearing very brightly colored, funky shirts, edgy jeans, and boots. Lately, I’ve been rebranding myself a bit by adding my adorable dog, Lazer, to all of my social media posts. Well, because who doesn’t love an adorable dog? Lazer has become a part of my brand.
business Your Face Is Your Brand marks and cellulite? Or, if you’re a bit older, are frustrated by your skin’s sudden laxity and fine lines? Well, those are also excellent stories to share with prospective clients: I was struggling with XYZ problem, so I tried this particular product/service and was amazed by the results! So much so, that I started selling it at my spa and my clients fell in love with it, too!
CONSISTENCY IS KEY Always include the same facial profile shot of yourself in everything that you send out personally, including social media posts, emails, website pages, print materials, and so on. You can (and should) update your picture from time to time to keep things fresh, but the point is for people to recognize your face and associate it with your business instantly. Just as you create a brand with your typeface, choice of colors, and marketing voice on printed materials, your face will create a brand on electronic elements as well.
A quick note on photos: If you take great selfies, or a friend can capture a really good picture of you, that’s probably fine. But this is your brand we’re talking about, so if it’s in your budget, consider hiring a professional photographer for a few headshots. The photographer can put you (literally) in the best light, at the best angle. They’re also professionally trained to capture your personality in a photo. Look at the headshots you see of other local people on professional social media websites like LinkedIn. If there’s one that really catches your eye, message the person and ask them for the name of their photographer. It will be money well-spent, I promise.
sonal content. While those things are also important, they should not be a substitute for what really makes you stand out: your face, your personality, and your style. These things, combined with your skills and knowledge, will ensure that your customers want to buy from you. As always, ask for feedback along the way and enjoy the process!
Louis “The Laser Guy” Silberman is CEO of National Laser Institute, a national cosmetic laser and medical esthetic training center founded fifteen years ago, and owns medical spas in Scottsdale and Dallas. He’s the author of Make
It Happen Online and a motivational market-
Using your face to sell your brand is more than just a good idea—it’s an essential strategy for building trust, gaining familiarity, and being memorable. People remember faces much more easily than they do logos and imper-
ing speaker. Silberman created the sixth most visited health/beauty website and was a semifinalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award 2014. Contact him at email@example.com and follow him on Instagram at louisthelaserguy.
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TREATMENT ROOM WITH RENÉE ROULEAU
Q&A with celebrity esthetician and trusted skincare expert What inspired you to become an esthetician? I was inspired by my grandmother, a hairstylist who was an exceptional woman and worked tirelessly in her own beauty salon. I observed how a woman would come into her salon feeling down and would leave glowing— both inside and out. I always knew the beauty business was my calling. However, I discovered in my teen years that skincare was my passion. It led to me becoming an esthetician at age 19 and opening my first skincare salon at age 26 with a partner. Eventually, I moved to Dallas to create Renée Rouleau Skincare at age 26, which I’ve had for almost 24 years. What is one piece of advice you would give to your younger self? Always keep learning. Never stop. Don’t ever think you know it all. My teacher at esthetics school told me that I asked more questions than any student she had ever had, but this was because of my deep desire for learning, and this continues to this day.
business In The Treatment Room
When was the turning point in your career? When did you consider yourself a success, and how do you define success? To me, success is simple: Doing what I love with people I love, making an impact, being compensated appropriately, and having time for other passions. The turning point in my career was when I started to get celebrity clients who would talk about me and my skincare line to the media. We got a lot of press from this, and it really put me on the map. For any esthetician, nothing feels better than getting your work shouted from the rooftops for the world to hear. What is your skincare philosophy? From the beginning of my career as an esthetician, I recognized that every person’s skin is unique, but the skincare industry mostly relied on a one-sizefits-all approach. Product lines were (and still are!) catered to very generic categories of skin - dry, normal and oily. So I began formulating my own exclusive high-performance products based on nine skin types to ensure my clients achieved the results they desired. My website offers a Skin Type Quiz so people can get a perfect match along with a curated routine to give the best results. Can you explain the process of your personalized skin consultations? What are three crucial questions that every esthetician should ask the first time they meet their client? I spend a lot of time asking a lot of questions. I consider myself a skin detective. While I ask for more than three questions, the main goal is to really understand what changes they want to see with their skin, the current state of their skin, and the history of what has worked and what hasn’t. 1 What are your top three skin concerns in order of priority?
2 When I look at your skin today, is this a typical skin day for you or is there anything out of the ordinary? 3 What have you tried doing for your skin up until now? What has helped, what hasn’t?
Based on their answers, I deliver my opinion and come up with a plan that meets their goals and budget. Any secret tricks you use in the treatment room? I would say that I get really clear on the client’s expectation of the treatment they will receive. For example, some people come for relaxation while others want a lot of time spent on extractions. So, my trick is to consult with them to ensure they leave feeling like they got what they came for. How have you built a strong and repeat client base over the years? I make my clients’ lives easier by giving them personalized attention. I don’t just focus on the treatment we’re doing when they are in my chair but how they are going to keep up with the re-
sults once they are out the door and into their everyday life. I do a lot of check-ins throughout the year to see what kind of changes they have going on in their life that could affect their skin so that I can modify their routine as needed. I also send them blog posts that I know they will enjoy so they can continue to learn from me even when we are not together. How has creating a blog helped your career? What advice would you give to estheticians who are trying to find their voice and establish a unique brand in the world of social media or blogging? The blog is my true labor of love. It is everything I know about skin written down in words for everyone to learn from. Ultimately, the blog has made me a very trusted esthetician, and at the end of the day, trust is everything. My best advice is to come from a place of serving others through education first and foremost. Don’t just be a salesperson trying to sell them products as this will be a turn-off, and you’ll lose trust with your clients.
business In The Treatment Room
What have been the biggest challenges of opening your skincare business? How do you balance having a product line, owning a spa, and still being a service provider? I ran a spa for 23 years and recently closed it down allowing me to give 100% of my energy to the product line and educating consumers through my growing blog, social media channels, speaking engagements, and any other opportunity that allows me to continue to do what I love-educate consumers on how to achieve their best skin. When I had the spa, keeping my estheticians’ schedules busy was something that always was an area of focus. They relied on my marketing efforts to stay booked. Unlike getting your grey roots colored or getting a manicure, professional skincare treatments aren’t seen as a necessity—especially if someone doesn’t really have any major skin issues. So, it’s continual education on getting clients to see the importance of coming in regularly. As for balancing all of the responsibilities, I had to learn early on to delegate. Ultimately, there are only so many hours in a day, and certain areas of the business can get neglected. If any area wasn’t getting a lot of attention, it would suffer, so I would make sure to find someone on my team to pick up where I left off. How do you find time for yourself? What do you like to do in your free time? In the early years when I was building my company, it was a 7-day a week job, so I didn’t take much time for myself. Fast forward to now, I have a great team around me that has taken a lot of responsibilities off of my plate so I can enjoy the fruits of my labor. I absolutely love working out, and my health is a huge priority. I love riding my motorcycle and hanging out with friends and listening to live music.
I also travel a lot—both for business and pleasure. You said that you would love for your business to be recognized as the best company to work for, what do you think makes a good workplace environment and builds morale in your employees? I have gotten many accolades during my career, but to get recognition as the best company to work for is truly a dream of mine. We have five core values in our company that we use when we hire, manage our team, and as a decision-making tool. Everyone on our team has bought into these values along with my vision, and this is regularly communicated. So, we’re all rowing in the same direction, and it allows for less conflict and encourages a healthy team. You believe that every esthetician should have a mentor. What qualities do you think make a great mentor and mentee? Who has been your greatest mentor throughout your career? A mentor has to be in a place in their life where they can be giving of their time to bring value. A mentee has to be open-minded to new ways of thinking. My best mentor is a fellow esthetician named Elizabeth Kosky. She took me under her wing when I was 19 and shared everything she knew about skin and was incredibly generous with her time. After 30 years of knowing her, I still lean on her now. Current favorite skincare trend and your least favorite skincare trend: I love chemical peels and think that they can make such positive change in the skin—especially for improving acne. My least favorite trend is mixing ingredients found in your kitchen to use on your skin. (I have a whole blog post talking about why I dislike at-home skincare recipes.)
Your favorite treatment to perform on your clients: I always include both physical and chemical exfoliation along with ultrasound to enhance product penetration, and I usually do several masks. Three superhero skincare ingredients: Retinol, salicylic acid, and vitamin C (specifically tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate).
Renée Rouleau has dedicated 30+ years to the art of skin perfection. She’s considered a complexion coach and blemish-busting hero by many thanks to her magical touch and ability to make skin concerns quickly disappear. This makes her the go-to expert for many of today’s most skin enviable personalities including Demi Lovato, Lili Reinhart and Madelaine Petsch. She is also on the advisory board for Woman @ Austin, an organization that is on a mission to advance women entrepreneurs striving to grow their companies. For additional information on Renée Rouleau or Renée Rouleau Skin Care, visit www.RenéeRouleau.com.
NEWS Professional Beauty Brands Rise to Relief Challenge
DermYoung and Medical Spas Partner to Donate PPE to Hospitals and Clinics
Sponsors of the 8th Annual Beauty Changes Lives Experience are showing up with big hearts and generous relief grants for licensed beauty professionals affected by the pandemic. Professionals can apply for a $1,000 grant on the Beauty Changes Lives website.
CEO Dr. Yang Brooks and the DermYoung reached out to their medical spa clients across the country to ask for PPE donations. Within 24 hours, DermYoung collected more than 500 surgical and N95 respiratory masks. Now the team is encouraging donations outside of their network. To join the effort, please contact Dr. Brooks at firstname.lastname@example.org or visit GetUsPPE.org.
The HydraFacial Company Shifts its Focus in Fighting COVID-19 “Face Life Face First” is the motto and helping small businesses who are on the front lines of COVID-19 is the mission. HydraFacial is now offering its infrastructure and workforce to distribute reusable medical masks, build ventilators, and answer tele-medicine calls.
Infinity Sun’s Glow Box Project In efforts to help spray tan salons and spas who are currently struggling, Infinity Sun has devised a product, Glow Boxes, containing tanning and skincare products for businesses to sell to their clients at retail prices.
NEWS Celluma Light Therapy COVID-19 Initiatives Eminence Organics Provides Products to First Responders Around the World From the Netherlands and the United Kingdom to Canada and the United States, Eminence has provided a pampering gift to health care heroes so that they can wash, treat and hydrate their skin after a long shift.
BABOR Amps Up Production and Offerings BABOR has amplified production at their Aachen, Germany facility to also produce hand sanitizer disinfectant. The professional brand is also offering special training webinars to beauty experts around the globe on how to use social media to connect with clients and perform virtual consultations. Qualifying spa partners can also receive financial assistance!
The LED light therapy company manufactures medical face shields, donates $2,500 to the Esthetics Council, and offers practitioners FREE disposable Hygiene Barriers. CEO Patrick Johnson encourages other companies to do the same. “The estheticians are the life blood of our business and we challenge all the other companies in the industry to match or better our $2,500 donation. It a tough time for everyone right now, but now is when we need to give the most.” - CEO Patrick Johnson
Horst Rechelbacher Foundation Mixes Art and Beauty with a Challenge to Support COVID Relief Efforts Nichole Rechelbacher, daughter of the late Horst Rechelbacher, is donating an additional $80,000 in COVID Relief Grants, bringing the Foundation’s COVID Relief donations to $104,000. Nicole has challenged the nation’s beauty brands and professionals to match the grant and said the first brand or individual to do so will be awarded an original piece of artwork created by Horst Rechlebacher.
See what the @estheticianedit duo have been up to this month!
• With a growing number of CBD
studies finding it to be a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, this skincare trend has become much more than a niche. Discover the best CBD-infused skincare on the market.
• Mika and Kelley Baker took @LNEonline by storm with a Q&A that covered the true artist’s journey to success.
• When it comes to treating the skin, • Get your mag at the tap Nerida Joy encourages us to listen of a finger! Your next digital closely and pay attention to what the issue is waiting for you! skin is telling us! This LIVE taught us all about skin analysis and face mapping.
Happy Summer etsys! We are wishing you all love and light in the next few months and are wishful that the chaos will begin to slow down, and things will begin to change for the better. We hope that you all are finding healthful ways to devote your time to online. Be sure to subscribe to our digital mag for the best of the best in the industry! Follow our blog for trending beauty roundups and biz tips! We love all of the energy and participation we’ve seen online! Make sure you are following us on @EstheticianEdit and @LNEonline on Instagram to catch your favorite estys on LIVE. Last month we had the chance to catch up with BROW QUEEN Kelley Baker on her business and how she’s spending her time self-quarantined. We also got to experience a little taste of Congress with Nerida Joy, who taught us all about FACE MAPPING! How are you connecting with your clients online? Get in front of the camera and perform weekly tips on skincare at home. Get those virtual consultations and product recommendations going. Take retail orders and ship them out! If possible, start booking for future appointments. Encourage your clients to leave you a review on Facebook or Google, or share a final look you gave them. Your customers appreciate you more than you think, so do your part to help them, and they will return the favor!
PRODUCT ABSORPTION GUIDE Will the skin absorb that?
Skin Deep Delivery systems and skincare absorption by Ben Johnson, M.D.
There are a lot of factors that go into formulating skincare, but surprisingly, penetration strategies are often overlooked. These strategies are critical to the efficacy of products, including a review of the pathways skincare ingredients use to get in. It is also important to identify backbar strategies and the pros and cons of popular methods to improve absorption during facials. The skin is a remarkable organ that works 24/7 to keep most things out, so the challenge is daunting. Most skincare formulators and skincare professionals give little consideration to the challenges of penetrating skincare past the surface lipids. Approximately 2-5% of the ingredients that are applied to the skin actually makes it past the stratum corneum. That is a lot of waste. Unless the ingredients are designed to create surface plumping, such as hyaluronic acid, they do very little to help the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance and virtually nothing to accelerate healing.
Product Absorption Guide
What is the biggest problem? For those who know the ‘500 Dalton Rule’, the biggest issue in skincare absorption is the molecular size of ingredients. Ingredient size can be measured in Daltons, and anything more than 500 Daltons appears to have a lot more trouble penetrating through the epidermal layers. All of the known substances that create contact allergies are smaller than 500 Daltons implying that something cannot be an allergen unless it can penetrate through the barrier. Here is a list of commonly used ingredients in skincare and their sizes: • Retinol = 286 Daltons • Ascorbic Acid = 176 Daltons • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate = 1130 Daltons • GHK-Cu = 404 Daltons • Palmitoyl oligopeptide = 579 Daltons • Hyaluronic Acid = 800-80,000 Daltons You can see why some of these might have more trouble getting into the skin. While molecular size is significant, larger molecules still have a chance to penetrate if they find the right pathway. Evidence suggests that if an ingredient can get past the lipid barrier, it may continue to make its way to the basement membrane and even into the dermis.
Getting Past the Barrier There has been surprisingly little research done on measuring the concentration of various actives at the dermal level after application. However, it can be assumed that the skin, being highly intelligent, preferentially incorporates substances that it recognizes as beneficial. That is not to say that if a toxin gets past the barrier, the skin will kick it back out, but more of the inactive, harmful and/or ineffective ingredients likely end up in epidermal purgatory than the good stuff.
This speaks to another issue in ingredient absorption, bioavailability. Many ingredients are modified using lipophilic (fat-loving) attachments that can help them slip by the barrier but may also limit what happens after that. We learned a decade ago that C-esters (ascorbyl palmitate) have such a strong bond that the skin could not separate them. Therefore, the ingredients were not active. This same issue appears to be happening with THD-ascorbate (ascorbyl isopalmitate). These two can be differentiated from retinyl palmitate for which the skin has a mechanism to split it off if needed. While retinyl palmitate is more lipophilic than retinol, it is also over 500 Daltons. This means there is no advantage in penetration. Some makers of liposomal ingredients use materials that blend well (are both water and lipid-soluble) and pass through the barrier fine but never release into the skin. That being said, liposomes can be an effective way to enhance penetration if appropriately designed. While there is some debate as to the preferred type of liposome, pharmaceutical companies have done the clinical trials to show that liposomes are the best chance for trans-
dermal penetration. Research shows as much as a 600% increase in overall absorption, which equates to improving penetration from 5% to 30%. That goes a long way in improving the odds that a product can make real changes to the skin. The best liposome is made from phosphatidylcholine because that is what the cell walls are made of, and it offers UVB protection and improved moisture retention as a bonus. When made using a pharmaceutical-grade fluidizer, the liposomes hold up well. While there is no question that lipidbased products penetrate more effectively, 90% of the critical actives people need/use in skincare are water-soluble and need a penetration strategy like liposomes. When an ingredient is larger than 500 Daltons, it has to pass through the follicle in order to have a chance at being active in the skin. This applies to many growth factors, most peptides that have four or more amino acids, and a host of larger ingredients. The follicle reaches into the dermis, but there are still some structural limitations to what gets through. Approximately 80% of skincare passes through the stratum
Product Absortion Guide
corneum by migrating between cells (intradermal) or by entering and exiting through cell walls (transdermal), whereas 20% penetrates through the follicles.
Concentration Beyond the lipid-loving properties and molecular size, another factor in improving penetration is the concentration. In other words, the more dense the serum, the better the penetration rate. This has more to do with osmosis and the balancing of nutrients between cells. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t confuse this with the studies on Vitamin C that showed a lower pH is helpful. Most research supports that lowering pH is not a factor in penetration unless it involves damaging the barrier in the process. This is the net effect of the most quoted Vitamin C study by Dr. Pinnell. They melted the skin with a low pH serum and an occlusive bandage, which will improve penetration as the skin barrier deteriorates over those 24 hours. Without an occlusive bandage, lower pH is not helpful.
In the Treatment Room This leads to a common tactic by many skincare professionals that involves damaging the barrier to improve penetration. It is still the most common approach taken by most skincare companies and estheticians. Alcohol or acid-based toner is often in the protocol to exfoliate and remove the lipid barrier in preparation for the serum application. In treatment rooms, you will find acetone, scrubs, and acid peels as the go-to methods for penetration enhancement. Doing this every 4-6 weeks is tolerable, but the daily attack on the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s protective barrier is a practice that increases sensitivity, sun damage, skin cancer, and skin dehydration. It takes three days for the skin to recover from wiping it with acetone, it takes a week for the barrier to recover from moderate microdermabrasion and two weeks for a mild-moderate acid peel. Yes,
there are added benefits to increasing the absorption of facial products in most cases, but the inflammation, DNA damage, and compromised skin are not worth it. Microneedling is another example of a strategy to increase penetration. Again this adds to the wounding of the skin to try and get more actives in. Some people think the wounding process is rejuvenating. However, I do not subscribe to that philosophy. There is a net gain in penetration but not as much as you might think because a wounded epidermis heals from the bottom up, and this can push some ingredients back out. Instead, it is beneficial to create temporary, shallow microchannels in the stratum corneum (using a Revitapen) that allow the nutrients to get in without any long term effects on the health of the skin. This allows the skin to focus all of its attention on what is being absorbed without having to distract itself by fixing the epidermis.
gredients means more healing, more protection, and more collagen activation. Avoiding strategies that harm the barrier means healthier, less sensitized skin. Please reconsider any routine that exfoliates or strips lipids every day. Analyze your skincare products to see if they employ methods like high concentration serums, delivery systems, bioavailable ingredients, Dalton size considerations, etc. It is very, very hard to create permanent changes in the skin, so you need to address every bottleneck to achieve this, penetration of actives being one of the most important.
Dr. Ben Johnson started his career in 1997 when he opened one of the first medi-spa chains with locations all around the U.S. He then founded and formulated his first skincare line, Cosmedix, with a strategy that was unique at the time - creating medical strength results using all-natural and chirally correct ingredients. Dr. Johnson has since developed
A Closer Look at Skincare
Osmosis Beauty with the goal of changing
Absorption strategies should be one of the most important aspects to look at when evaluating a skincare line. Improved delivery of bioavailable in-
the direction of skin care away from excessive exfoliation and renewing the focus of dermal remodeling, barrier and DNA repair, and detoxification.
Efficacy How to decipher skincare products that actually absorb by Dr. Eddie Omar
The skin is the largest human organ and protects the body from physical and biological attacks. The epidermis effectively forms a barrier that is crucial to maintaining optimal internal and external health. Therefore, it is of utmost importance to protect the skin and ultimately protect the body. However, a commonly overlooked aspect of skin protection is directly correlated to skincare ingredients, products, and daily habits. While skincare ingredients and products can help protect and maintain the skin, strong marketing often overshadows clinically significant information leaving a consumer to believe that all products are created equal. Skincare ingredients are critical to a productsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; formulation and will determine the results consumers will see. These ingredientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; have different absorption properties, which play a major role in absorption and, ultimately, the desired outcome of using them.
Product Absorption Guide
Not All Ingredients are Created Equally Absorption is not only dependent on penetration, but without products penetrating the skin, the effects of the ingredients are not likely to happen. It is essential to realize that skin penetration studies are extremely important yet expensive. Unfortunately, many companies do not invest the time or resources to understand if the products or ingredients will work as marketed. The most common misconception is that different forms and molecular weights of ingredients have equal or similar actions. One of the most prominent examples of this is vitamin C. Vitamin C, also known as L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA), is the most abundant water-soluble antioxidant found in the skin that is continuously depleted as environmental aggressors attack it. Therefore, vitamin C needs to be consistently replenished and supplemented with more vitamin C in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid to adequately protect the skin from being damaged and expedite the premature signs of aging. Besides wrinkle prevention, vitamin C plays a vital role in photoprotection, neocollagenesis, and many other skin disorders.
Topical vs. Oral Consumption With an abundance of products available on the market, it is difficult to know that more than one molecular form of vitamin C exists. Even more confusingly, only one of those forms shows clinically significant results when applied topically. Vitamin C can be provided to the skin through topical application or ingested orally. Oral consumption is not as effective as topical application due to the ingredient being broken down before successfully being transported to the skin. Studies have shown that percutaneous vitamin C absorption is the most effective way to deliver the nutrient to the skin. However, the stability of vitamin C in topical solutions is a concern, as exposures to air, heat, and/or light 58
may slowly degrade vitamin C. The natural form of vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is the most effective while derivatives are considered to have limited permeability and function in the skin.
How effective are your products? Formulas containing vitamin C depend greatly on pH, molecular form, and concentration. Formulations with a pH below 4.0 aid in transport by promoting the uncharged form of ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Although concentrations of vitamin C up to 30% have been used, maximal absorption is achieved with 20% vitamin C. Topical application of ascorbic acid will cross the epidermis into the underlying dermal layers. The most critical aspect of a vitamin c formulation is if it even penetrates the skin expressed as percutaneous absorption, as previously mentioned. A few of the most common forms of vitamin C derivatives are Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Ascorbyl Palmitate. Research shows that every type of vitamin C besides L-Ascorbic Acid needs to be converted into Ascorbic Acid for it to be effective, which occurs after itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s applied. Therefore, the different molecular forms of vitamin C formulations must first penetrate the skin and undergo successful conversion. This means that an insufficient amount of the ingredient is being applied and utilized by the skin. Moreover, conflicting studies have shown these derivatives, such as sodium ascorbyl-phosphate, would
not penetrate the epidermis while it has in other studies. In another experiment, magnesium ascorbyl-phosphate did not improve skin barrier function. Ultimately, these results do not prove to be reliable for clinically significant results. Utilizing vitamin C in a clinic or spa is essential to provide patients with the most clinically significant results to protect against photodamage, wrinkles, and dark spots while also being excellent for use in combination with laser treatments and skin maintenance. Providing the right vitamin C products with clinically proven absorption is highly dependent on formulations containing L-Ascorbic Acid, that have an aqueous (water) based solution, with a pH below 4.2, and the concentration of vitamin C below 20%.
As the CEO and product formulator at Phyto-C, Dr. Eddie Omar is responsible for many of the product innovations and discoveries for the brand. Dr. Omar joined Phyto-C Skin Care after graduation, holding several roles in the company in order to have a deep understanding of all aspects of the business functionality from marketing, sales to product formulation. In 4 short years, Dr. Eddie Omar became Chief Operations Officer of Phyto-C Skin Care with the goal of creating a strong internal company culture and expanding international distribution in Russia, Shanghai, Mexico, Austria, and Germany. Dr. Omar reached these goals and continues to strive towards building Phyto-C Skin Care into the largest and most respected cosmeceutical company.
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Dian QiGong Massage Healing through our vast internal powers
by Anabel De La Vega
Qi Gong comes from the Chinese words"Qi" translating to life energy and "Gong," meaning "work" or "practice. Qi Gong massages are mind-body treatments that help practitioners heal their bodies, prevent and treat many illnesses, improve their health, and open up the channels of energy to be moved. Many will find the practice useful for recovering from fatigue, aches, pain, tension, and stress. It can be practiced either still or moving, with "still" having a strong emphasis on internal focus and breathing.
organic & wellness Dian Qi Gong Massage
Dian Qi Gong massage is performed to treat the internal organs, such as the liver, stomach, spleen, and gallbladder, which are the foundation of our health. Through this massage, all of these organs are capable of maintaining their own Qi, while balancing circulation in each organ that requires it. This not only causes the circulation in the organs themselves to be smooth, but the flow between the organs to be continuous as well. Therefore, when massaging these four internal organs, you should treat them as one instead of four. Without any blockages, the organs are able to remain healthy, avoid degeneration, and carry out their physical processes managing the energies throughout the body. In Chinese healing massage, you need to have a special feeling, concentration, and meditation for the treatment
to be effective. The massage is considered to be a kind of meditation that brings your feeling and concentrated mind to a profound state. Therefore, the strength of the fingers and mental concentration are emphasized more than any other massage.
Understanding Yin and Yang The concept of Yin and Yang is the foundation of Chinese philosophy. To understand Dian Qi Gong, you first have to understand the concept of Yin and Yang. Yin and Yang are mixed with Dian Qi Gong to unite their forces, nature, and balance. This means that when they interact with each other smoothly and harmoniously, they manifest power and generate millions of living things. When it is said that Qi is Yin and Yang, this means that the Qi is too strong or too weak for a particular circumstance. When Qi in any of your organs is not in its normal state, you feel uncomfortable. If it is very much off from the normal state, the organ will start to malfunction, and you may become sick. When this happens, the Qi in your entire body will also be affected, and you will feel too Yang, perhaps feverish, or too Yin, such as the weakness after diarrhea.
Honing in on the Body Qi, known as bioelectricity, is the internal energy of your body. When you perform a Dian Qi Gong massage, you learn the right postures and movements that will help you improve on the strength that you have to use so that you can perform the massage accurately. To do so, your body must be centered and balanced. If it is not, you will be tense and uneasy, and this will affect the judgment of your Yi and the circulation of your Qi. The body and mind are mutually related. When your Qi is in peace and can judge things accurately, your body will be relaxed, balanced, centered, and rooted. Only when you 66
organic & wellness Dian Qi Gong Massage
are rooted, will you then be able to raise your spirit of vitality. Relaxation is one of the major keys to success in Dian Qi Gong Massage. When you regulate your mind, it is easy to separate from thinking of the present worries, happiness, and sadness. When you adjust your mind, it is easy to stop any activity that is about to happen. You will be able to control Qi circulation and help to communicate with your damaged internal organs. Once your mind is relaxed and regulated, then you can sense your internal organs. The first level is the external physical relaxation or postural relaxation. It consists of adopting a comfortable stance and avoiding unnecessary strain in how you stand and move. The second level is to relax the muscles and tendons. It will help you open the channels and accumulate energy.
The third level is the one that reaches the maximum relaxation stage. This will help you control through the massage of the internal organs. Our Qi will be able to reach its maximum energy and will be able to reach everywhere. Then, you will be able to feel transparent as if your whole body has disappeared. Once you have reached this level, you will be able to communicate with your organs and use the Dian Qi Gong Massage Technique to adjust or regulate the Qi disorders, which are giving you problems. The term Rooted means to be stable and in firm contact with the ground. Before anything, you have to be relaxed and let your body ease, so you will stop fighting the ground and be able to adjust yourself to your regular relaxation. Center yourself with your mind and soul and relax for 10 minutes. Using your Qi will help you balance and ground your
Relaxation is one of the major keys to success in Dian Qi Gong Massage.
organic & wellness Dian Qi Gong Massage
energy, which is going to help you find any internal problem that might be occurring with any of these organs through different channels.
The Power of Breath Breathing plays a significant role in grounding your energy because you have to make sure that the breath that you are performing is smooth, calm, and peaceful. Only if you can reach this point, then you will be able to make the breathing deep, slender and long. Your breathing is closely related to the state of your Qi and is, therefore, also considered Yin or Yang. When you exhale, you expel air from your lungs, your mind moves
outward, and the Qi around the body expands. Each of the organs that might be affected will release their toxins out and will gain their normal shape and strength. Every time you are performing a Dian Qi Gong Massage for internal organs that are affected by any reason, your Qi releases energy and strength to help restore and heal these particular organs. Deep and calm breathing relaxes you and keeps your mind clear. It oxygenates the diaphragm to go up and down, which massages and stimulates the organs.
Cultivating a Healing Energy in Your Life Regulating your Qi, you must control your body, breath, and mind. When you regulate your spirit, you are regulating the center and root of a fight. What makes this happen? Understanding your own strength and the condition of your wellbeing. This is also controlled by your patience, endurance, and daily routine with life. Physical fitness regulates the condition of the body, muscles, tendons, and ligaments. Neutral inhalation and exhalation have to be equal to expand and control our inner connection towards Qi. It is essential that after you have treated many patients, you know how to recover your Qi and physical condition into a healthy and balanced stage again. Qi has to return to its normal state. When you inhale, you lead the Qi at the center of the three joints. Just remember, when you are willing to do something, your first attitude must be your inner self, which leads you to help any person that is suffering from any illness of damaged organs. Through Dian Qi Gong Massage, the complete success of this depends on your feeling, and this feeling can only be cultivated from a deep meditative MIND.
Anabel De La Vega is a certified, fully licensed specialist and instructor in Florida with more than 24 years of experience in the beauty industry. She is a herbologist, reflexologist, and published author of Tao The Art of Relaxation, a book discussing her history and knowledge of Chinese facials. She conducts educational seminars in Florida, Venezuela and Colombia and is highly respected in her field.
Organic & Wellness
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Glycolic Acid is combined with Quartz Crystals to provide both physical and chemical exfoliation benefits, while pumpkin, vitamin C and turmeric refine and brighten skin that appears softer, smoother and more radiant.
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Tammy Fender Purifying AtHome Facial Treatment Kit Ideal for congested and oily skin types, this kit re-invigorates the complexion, cleanses deeply, lifts away dullness, and softens the skin for a newly revealed glowing freshness.
SUMMER BROWS Get naturally beautiful brows with this powdered brow technique! by Kim Zen
Heading into the sweaty days of summer, your clients donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to worry about filling in their brows before the beach or a night out dancing. Permanently beautiful eyebrows allow your clients to get up and going while looking their best. For those who are looking for a soft, natural eyebrow look that will last, powder brows are an ideal choice.Their blurred or diffused edges give the brow a powdered-in, makeup-like effect that is perfect for everyday wear.
image Melt-Proof Summer Brows
Minimally invasive and time effective, this re-engineered powder brow technique is the perfect procedure for anyone looking to enhance their natural eyebrow shape and color. Read on to learn more about the process and why powder brows are an excellent choice for people who desire a long-lasting permanent eyebrow makeup solution.
The Trick of the Trade Two important elements of this powder brow technique are the needles used and the blending of pigments. Together, they play a crucial role in controlling shading to achieve a result that is tailored specifically to each individual. Every person has their own unique hair color and eyebrow makeup preference, so one pigment alone will not result in a perfect match. By mixing several different pigments together, you can achieve a look that is much more natural and realistic. With what is referred to in the industry as “machine shading,” the trick is to use a combination of different needles 72
to create a pixelated shadow. The resulting shadow adds a slight depth to the eyebrow without the harshness of hard, bold lines. The combination of needles plus the use of custom-blended pigments are what make this realistic look achievable.
Down to The Nitty-Gritty Begin the procedure by measuring the brows and mapping out a shape that is flattering to your client’s face. Use a selection of measurement tools to make this process simpler and more precise, such as ratio calipers and adhesive eyebrow rulers. When working out the perfect eyebrow shape, precision is essential. After this is done, check in to see if any adjustments need to be made. Moving on from the brow mapping process, begin to blend your pigments to create a shade that suits your client’s needs. The majority of customers who come in for this service desire a color that matches their makeup powder or pencil, which usually ends up being a
bit lighter than their natural hair color. Of course, if the client would like something darker, this can be achieved too. Once your pigments are blended, and the final color has been agreed upon, set up your needles and begin to shade in the eyebrows. Depending on the hair type of your client, work in a gradient that complements the existing brow. Your goal should be to add dimension to the eyebrow, while still maintaining a softness that flatters the face. Keep in mind that pigment is not implanted in the dermal layer, but in the basal layer of the epidermis. Because of this, there is less trauma to the skin, and you can maintain greater control over the pigment deposits. A topical numbing agent can be used, but the process itself is relatively painless for most people. Overall, it takes about an hour to shade in both eyebrows fully. Once you have finished, check back with your client to make sure they are happy with the results and to see if they would like
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BEUTI SKINCARE: (facial skincare created by an esthetician)
BLISSOMA: (face + body created by an herbal chemist) Restore skin to balance through the sacred relationship between plants and people. Blissoma combines cutting edge chemistry with traditional herbal knowledge for the best of both worlds. The brand specializes in targeted care for demanding skin types. If your clients suffer from extremely sensitive skin, allergies, or other skin problems, Blissoma can help. blissoma.com
Beuti Skincare was created out of a need for highly efficient skincare that does not contain the chemicals that cause inflammation and redness. Its products are made up of pure nutritional natural ingredients to deliver results through night treatments, anti-aging products, skin moisturizers, and more. All of the ingredients are handpicked and use a combination of omegas, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. beutiskincare.com
BLUELENE: (facial skincare created by scientist, Dr. Kan Cao) As a brand created by a scientist and anti-aging authority, Bluelene focuses first on innovation. Everything brought to market starts with R&D labs, where the company uses sophisticated 2-D and 3-D human skin models to research what occurs on the cellular level when the skin is exposed to different factors and ingredients. This singular focus has been developing formulas for reversing existing and future damage for even the most sensitive skin types! bluelene.com
PLUME SCIENCE: (natural lash + brow products) With the expertise of their world-class research and development team, Plume has developed the first-of-its-kind all-natural lash and brow enhancement formula. The magic of Plume is not what is in the products, but what is not in them, and that holds true on all Plume product innovations, specifically formulated for women who are not willing to compromise safety for great lash and brows! plumescience.com
image Melt-Proof Summer Brows any adjustments. When this is done, the powder brow application is complete, and the healing process can begin.
The Healing Process Newly machine-shaded eyebrows will shed for around seven to ten days after the powder brow treatment, and this is completely normal. When it comes to aftercare, it is essential to recommend to clients that they keep the eyebrow area clean and moisturized, with as little contact with water as possible until the shedding process is over. As far as topical treatments go, send your clients home with a natural aftercare product. These products typically contain ingredients that are soothing to the skin, such as shea butter and coconut oil. It is important to stress that clients do not use petrolatum-based products like Vaseline, or antibiotic ointments like Neosporin. Of course, showering and washing your face are both necessary practices,
and a small amount of water will not negatively affect the healing process. It is important to express to your clients that the color of the brows will fade in time, and are at their darkest the first week after the initial application. Once the shedding process has finished, it takes roughly four to six weeks for the pigment to settle fully. In this time, clients should notice that their eyebrows have slightly lightened in color, but maintain a powdery, filled in look. This time frame is consistent amongst the majority of individuals who receive powder brow treatments, so make sure to stress the longevity of the procedure. Powder brow clients typically do not need to return for a touch up until at least eight to twelve weeks after their first session - although this time frame depends on pigment retention, how much was used, and how each individual responds to the healing process.
â&#x20AC;˘ How long is this service? The full powder brow service lasts between 2 to 2.5 hours, including measuring and preparing brow shape, selecting and mixing pigments, procedure (1hr.), and final adjustments â&#x20AC;˘ How long is the healing time? Shedding lasts around 7 to 10 days. After that, it takes about 4 to 6 weeks for the pigment to settle. â&#x20AC;˘ How long before a touch-up? Powder brows should be touched up 8 to 12 weeks after healing is complete.
Kim Zen Recognized as a master trainer in her field, Kim Zen has been in the medical esthetics and beauty industry for more than twenty years. Her dedication and passion for the industry keeps her at the forefront of new and innovative techniques and procedures. She is the owner of Zen Derma Studios, located in San Diego, California, where she offers one-on-one training and classes on treatments ranging from lashes to permanent brow services. To learn more about her, her practice, and Zen Derma Studios, please visit www.zendermastudios.com.
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Beyond Matte Liquid Foundation
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A clean, weightless, multitasking 3-in-1 foundation with buildable, stay-put coverage and a naturallooking semi-matte finish. Formulated with skin-nourishing, plant-based ingredients.
Julep’s Make-Up Brush Cleansing Mat Deep clean your brushes with this cleansing mat, which cares for bristles and extends the life of your brushes. Gently swirl your brush over the mat to remove even the most stubborn makeup, oil, and dirt.
GrandeGLOW Plumping Liquid Highlighter Plump and moisturize the skin for an instantly sculpted, lifted look. Wear this velvety smooth, liquid highlighter alone for a dewy, natural look or layer it with makeup for a glammed appearance.
Illumino Lashes Hosts Gel-Lys™ Comprehensive Training The world’s first LED lash device compresses the 24-hour cure time of conventional lash adhesive into a few seconds, making lash extensions faster & safer for both you & your client. Secure your device and place in the comprehensive training happening June 14th and August 16th in Oakland, California.
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