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FILE IT.

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EXPLORE IT, TYPE IT, FILE IT. A fashion Industry file written and created by Liv Harrould for BA2A. This book will explore and reflect her professional practice and work, both in and outside university indicating how it has played a role for the future of her career.

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CONTENT

WHO’S WHO IN FASHION 4

CHAPTER 1: THE PRESTIGIOUS DESIGNERS

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CHAPTER 2: THE CONTRIBUTORS

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CHAPTER 3: THE SUSTAINABLE INFLUENCER’S

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CHAPTER 4: GUEST SPEAKERS

WORK EXPERIENCE CHAPTER 6:

CREATIVE DIRECTORS

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PHOTOGRAPHERS

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FILM MAKERS

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STYLISTS

BOOHOO.COM

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THE GUARDIAN

PROFESSIONAL PRACTICE CHAPTER 7:

JOB ROLES WITHIN FASHION CHAPTER 5: 86

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5

134

SUPPORTED BOOKS FOR BA2A

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MY CREATIVE CV


CHAPTER 1:

WHOS WHO

IN FASHION Photo Credit: Unknown. Alexa Chung / Google Images

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PRESTIGIOUS DESIGNERS In this chapter I will research and highlight some of the key influencer’s in Fashion. Showing a mixture of famous figures such as Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood and how their attribution to fashion helps shape it on a day to day basis. I will also conduct further research into exactly what job roles they’ve adopted through this field of work.. Especially highlighting their social presence on platforms such as Instagram and how that impacts the younger generations. The purpose of this chapter is to show that i’m able to identify the different job roles within fashion and learn the key characteristics needed to apply myself later in life. The figures Ive chosen to show in this Chapter are to both reflect my interests and direction of work. Another aim is to also explore their individual properties and anaylze their relationships with other figures in the industry including fashion designers and other key influencer’s.

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Photo Credit: Wallpapersafari. Marc Jacobs

MARC JACOBS, AMERICAN, AGE: 53 8


MARC JACOBS POSITION IN FASHION: Founder and Creative Designer for his own fashion label ‘Marc Jacobs’. Compelling figure for gender equality and diversity in contemporary society.

Marc Jacobs, an American fashion designer whom may be famously known for his own label ‘Marc Jacob’s has been on the scene since the launch of his first collection in 1997. Some may also know him for being the creative director of Louis Vuitton where he revitalized the brand, designed the first line of ready-to-wear clothing and expanded their accessory range. Monitoring Marc’s social media presence was eventful, he appears to have two separate accounts on Instagram, one labeled ‘themarcjacobs’ and the other being the official page called ‘Marc Jacobs’. Unlike other celebrity figures, Marc uses his personal Instagram as a platform to showcase his life behind closed doors, whether its photos with a friend or taking selfies with his dog in bed he seems to be open to showing his followers this. Marc has been pushing the ‘fashion boundaries’ in recent years, being labeled in a handful of magazines and on line articles for being ‘controversial’ in some of his most recent runway collections. One in particularly took center stage - His most recent SS17 collection where he was criticized for using deadlock hair styles on white models.

7.7 Thousand

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MARC JACOBS AND TOM FORD REFUSE TO DRESS MELANIA TRUMP Its not all doom and gloom with Marc Jacobs. Very interestingly Marc has featured in quite a few Worldwide articles recently but its not quite the news you may expect to hear from the American fashion designer. Marc along with Tom Ford have apparently refused to dress Melania Trump anytime soon according to an article written by ‘Carol Leaper’ from The Telegraph. Marc stated that he has ‘no interest whatsoever in dressing Melania Trump’ which was then followed by him saying, ‘Personally I’d rather put my energy into helping those who will be hurt by [Donald] Trump and his supporters’. Its interesting to see ‘prestigious’ fashion figures like Marc being featured in the news for other topics other than his newest ‘capsule collections’ etc. Not only does Mark seem to speak up loudly about his opinions but he also gives us an essence that hes not afraid to be controversial. Especially following his latest catwalk collection where he was accused of being racially insensitive because a majority of his white models where wearing dreadlocks. AND ASK ME, WHATS MY OPINION? I think, just like anybody else, Marc is entitled to whatever opinion he wants. I understand that being such a famous figure and always in the limelight comes with a particular role but I do agree that he should speak passionately about his views. I think thats the problem with too many famous designers nowadays.. they are scared to be in the public eye for anything other than their work. So.. is this why we subconsciously have biased views on some Celebrities when they raise their opinions? Do we think they dont have a back bone?

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Photo Credit: Harpers Bazaar. Melania Trump


CAROL LIM, AMERICAN, 41

HUMBERTO LEON, 41

Photo Credit: Unknown. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon

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CAROL LIM & HUMBERTO LEON POSITION IN FASHION: Creative Directors for the designer label Kenzo. Both have future ambitions to incorporate their authentic approach throughout the brand.

Humberto Leon and best friend Carol Lim have been pretty much working alongside each other ever since they both graduated from University of California, Berkeley in 1997. Following their graduation, in early 2001, Humberto and Carol went on a two-week trip to Hong Kong, where they became inspired to open a store in the United States. Their concept consisted of an idea to bring British or over sea’s stores to the United States such as Topshop and Havaianas, they also had an idea to feature emerging brands such as Alexander Wang and Rodarte. They both invested ¢5,000 each which launched the opening of their brand which was followed by high success for quite some years. By 2012, Humberto and Carol moved on and both became the new co-creative directors of designer brand Kenzo, granting them both the opportunity to put their twist on the already rich and vibrant being of the brand. In Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 Leon and Lim both launched their first range for Kenzo through a series of mens and womens wear capsule collections. They were quoted in an article written by Ella Alexander in Vogue saying “with our new collections, we hope that we have injected the brand with a youthful spirit and sense of fun and cheekiness” which summaries their future ambitions for Kenzo quite nicely.

290 Thousand

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860 Thousand


H&M X KENZO COLLECTION

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Photo Credit: H&M X KENZO


CAROL LIM AND HUMBERTO LEON

DIRECTING KENZO

Researching into Who’s Who in the fashion industry has opened my eyes to many brilliant creative figures, two of my favourite being; Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the creative directors of Kenzo.

For someone who’s been totally obsessed by Kenzo’s identity for years now, I’m beginning to understand the significance and affects of bringing in new creative directors to a brand. It mustn’t be an easy nor a straight forward process for sure, however is it possible that new figures can bring the brand even more to life? I think best friends Carol and Humberto couldn’t of done a better job, so far. I think Kenzo is a great example of an established brand who uses vibrant colours along with contrasting textures to create diverse collections, which definitely differs from a lot of other designers. Whats most interesting about Kenzo is their new creative collaboration with H&M. Who seems like two worlds apart has formed one of the most memorable collaborations to date, but what I find most interesting is how they both intend to show their ‘outlook’ of fashion through the brand.

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AND ASK ME, WHY I THINK THEY ARE SPECIAL? Well its simple.. I think it was fate that bought Carol and Humberto to Kenzo. Their suited to every essence of the brand and if anything I think they’re reinvigorating the whole of its identity. Especially with their Collection with H&M, they are not only introducing a completely new audience to Kenzo but are also giving the new customers a taste of being able to afford designer products. Not only have they marketed this extremely well but kept to their style completely.


STELLA MCCARTNEY, BRITISH, 45

Photo Credit: Colognoisseur - Stella McCartney

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STELLA McCARTNEY POSITION IN FASHION: Founder and Creative Designer for her own fashion label ‘Stella McCartney’. Activist in animal right, the future of fashion sustainability and the justice of womens rights.

British born and raised fashion design Stella McCartney whom some may famously known for being Paul McCartney’s daughter, has been in the fashion industry for just over 3 decades. At age 13, Stella’s love for fashion first begun and by age 16 she landed herself an internship with Christian Lacroix before studying fashion at Central St Martins London. After graduating Stella shadowed Savile row tailor Edward Sexton before establishing her own style of tailoring. She is renowned for her simple but sharp tailoring and has been giving womens wear a feminine yet considerate approach of wearable design ever since. Stella has had a long history working alongside professionals and has collaborated in the past with both designer and high street labels such as; H&M. What makes Stella most special is her highly enthusiastic attitude towards the worlds politics and environment. Stella’s whole fashion label is sustainable friendly and does not test on animals, making her one of the worlds most respected speakers for fashion ecology. Her collections are timeless , sophisticated and powerful which reflects her personality identically .

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On the right hand side page is, an example of her website as soon as you click through to it off of Google.

STELLA McCARTNEY: SUSTAINABLE LUXURY FASHION

Whats most interesting about this is that she doest have any category dedicated to using ‘sustainable materials’ etc, and the only place to discover her morals is to scroll to the bottom and click on her link ‘Sustainability’. Im intrigued that its not promoted at the fore front of her page. It must limit herself to new customers as they probably wont know she has these remarkable morals without researching it in depth.

One thing that makes Stella considerably different from other designers is that she is extremely passionate about ‘sustainable fashion’. Stella comes from a vegan/ vegetarian background, where her mother practiced this. Stella demonstrates that shes committed to keeping her brand separate to using real leather or non sustainable materials, which surely must be challenging most of the time.

AND ASK ME, WHY DO I THINK SHE DOESN’T SCREAM ABOUT IT? Probably because one; she doesn’t want to be treated any differently to other designers and two because; it shouldn’t be treated as ‘abnormal’ in any sense. I think although it seems quite confusing, its also very clever at the same time.

What I find most interesting about Stella is that although she’s very well known for being vegetarian/vegan and sustainable, her brand doesn’t seem to scream this message? I found this out when I simply typed her name into Google. Quite interestingly at the forefront of her brand her title to her website is ‘Stella McCartney Sustainable Luxury Fashion’ however this theme then ultimately disappears when you click through to her page.

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Photo Credit: Liv Harrould - Screen shots


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Photo Credit: Daily Mail - Stella McCartney Campaign

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, BRITISH, 75

Photo Credit: The Independent - Vivivenne Westwood

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD POSITION IN FASHION: Founder and Creative Designer for her own fashion label ‘Vivienne Westwood’. Powerful business woman and activist in fashion sustainability.

Dame Vivienne Westwood was born into the fashion world April 8, 1941 in Glossop Derbyshire. She first started designing clothes in 1971 at age 30, where she also opened her first ever store called ‘Let It Rock’ at 430 Kings road, London. 5 years after opening her store, she met lover and business partner, Malcolm McLaren where they both dressed the sex pistols. To mark a successful era in 1990, Vivienne launched her first ever mens wear collection in Florence, Italy where she was named ‘British Designer of the year’. Ever since then, Westwood has been releasing catwalks of total creativity, one is memorably marked, where she controversially sent male models down the catwalk with fake big breasts. As well as Vivienne being totally outrageous and diverse, she also cares a lot about world politics. In 2011, she joined the Occupy London anti-capitalist protesters outside St Paul’s Cathedral where she would often outline her concerns for climate change. Vivienne Westwood is a great example of a designer who uses fashion to express her emotions and in most collections has a deep connection to each garment.

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD IS TO BECOME A

SUSTAINABLE FASHION DESIGNER In 2015 an article was released by writer Tamsin Blanchard for the telegraph, where apparently Stella McCartney has vowed to help Vivienne become a sustainable fashion designer in the near future.

Vivienne Westwood along with Stella already works as part of the UN Ethical Fashion Initiative, previously making a range full of bags using cooperatives in Kenya. However, sustainability is far from simple and straight forward, especially within fashion... so Westwood’s questions seemed truthful and inquisitive. Her question? as a vegetarian herself, is it more environmentally damaging using leather or synthetic material.

Sustainable and ethical conscious Stella McCartney recently held a talk at #BoFVoices, a new platform that encourages discussion and debate around business and fashion where she hosted a conversation to discuss issues around sustainability,

It seems that just like all of us, we are forever learning new things about sustainability and what are the best ways of being more ethically friendly. Designers such as Stella and Vivienne are great examples of those challenging fashion into being something more than just clothes.

Amongst Stella, in the crowd was no other than herself dame Vivienne Westwood who was rumored to be taking key notes the whole duration of the discussion, and by time it was over.. Vivienne had quite the questions to ask.

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Photo Credit: The Telegraph - Vivienne and Stella

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SOURCES USED MARC JACOBS

Caroline Leaper . (2016). Marc Jacobs refuses to dress Melania Trump. Available: http:// www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/people/ marc-jacobs-tom-ford-refuse-dress-melaniatrump/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

CAROL LIM AND HUMBERTO LEON

Unknown. (2016). Kenzo X H&M Designer Collaboration. Available: http://www2. hm.com/en_gb/life/culture/inside-h-m/ kenzo-x-hm-designer-collaboration-2016. html. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

STELLA McCARTNEY

Stella McCartney. (unknown ). Sustainable Luxury Fashion. Available: http://www.stellamccartney.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Tamsin Blanchard. (2015). Vivienne Westwood To Become Sustainable Fashion Designer. Available: http://fashion. telegraph.co.uk/columns/tamsin-blanchard Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. 26


CHAPTER 2:

CONT RIBU TORS 27

Photo Credit: Unknown / Alexa Chung - Google Images


SO CI AL

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INTRODUCTION In

this chapter I will research and highlight some of the key influencer’s in Fashion. Showing a mixture of famous figures such as Alexa Chung and Emma Watson and how their attribution to fashion helps shape it on a day to day basis. I will also conduct further research into exactly what job roles they’ve adopted through this field of work.. Especially highlighting their social presence on platforms such as Instagram and how that impacts the younger generations. The purpose of this chapter is to show that i’m able to identify the different job roles within fashion and learn the key characteristics needed to apply myself later in life. The figures Ive chosen to show in this Chapter are to both reflect my interests and direction of work. Another aim is to also explore their individual properties and anaylse their relationships with other figures in the industry including fashion designers and other key influencer’s.

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Photo Credit: Unknown / Alexa Chung - Google Images

ALEXA CHUNG 30


2.5 Million 1.56 Million 219 Thousand

ABOUT Alexa Chung, aged 33 is a British model, television presenter and contributing editor at vogue. Since becoming well known, Chung’s played on fashions heart string, especially when it comes to her extremely casual and whitty sense of humor. Her online social presence is massive, with over a consumption of 4 million followers on instagram and twitter combined, she is a great example of a fashion influencer and contributor. She uses social media to promote and advertise all forms of global fashion including her own personal experiences through modeling or worldwide fashion related issues. In most recent years Alexa has been a Documentarist for a series on British Vogue’s Youtube channel called ‘the future of fashion’ where she shows you the whole cycle, from production to designers and brands. 31


VOGUE AND ALEXA CHUNG: FASHION DOCUMENTARY

Alexa Chung, the well recognised fashion guru, making fashion all the more exciting and interesting, first launched a series of documentaries with British Vogue starting in 2015. The documentaries investigate the state of fashion today from the inside filled with interesting facts and knowledge that all us ‘fashion enthusiasts’ want to know more about. The videos begin with as little as 2 minutes and sometimes last as long as 30 minutes, giving us an in depth insight into the vastly evolving world of fashion.

One thing that has intrigued me about these video’s, is how many people tune in to watch them each time. At a constant of around 250,000 views per video - Alexa has definitely been appealing to wide audiences. Not only that but her and vogue regularly read the comments left by us as the viewers and interact with them personally. As a result Alexa has created Question and Answer video’s along with live videos where she answers the reoccurring questions surrounding fashion.

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One thing that has intrigued me about these video’s, is how many people tune in to watch them each time. At a constant of around 250,000 views per video - Alexa has definitely been appealing to wide audiences. Not only that but her and vogue regularly read the comments left by us as the viewers and interact with them personally. As a result Alexa has created Question and Answer video’s along with live videos where she answers the reoccurring questions surrounding fashion.

I think this positively highlights the impact of social media and is a good example of brands building more personal relationships with their consumers.. As after all, without us interacting with vogue, they wouldn’t have survived. As a fashion student, she shares invaluable information that is extremely beneficial for my professional practice in fashion. Her video’s also knowledge me more about undiscovered and independent creative’s that I’m very grateful for now knowing about.

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Photo Credit: Liv Harrould / Screen shot of video


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Photo Credit: Unknwon / Daily Alexa Chung


EMMA WATSON 36

Photo Credit: Elle / Emma Watson


17 Million 23.1 Million 33 Million

ABOUT Emma Watson, aged 26 is a British actress, model and activist. Emma has been in the stardom lime light ever since the release of Harry Potter and the philosophers stone, released in 2001 for her role as hermione when she was only 11 years old. After years of being a famous actress, Emma has found herself at age 26 extremely enthusiastic about fashion, sustainability and world politics. She is a UN good will ambassador for womens rights and often holds important speeches to raise awareness surrounding the issue. She has also recently just launched a collaboration with a small independent slow fashion brand called ‘Zady’ and worked on a collection with them, that uses sustainable only materials. Emma’s online social presence is enormous, with other 23.1 million Instagrams followers, she utalises her page as a platform to discuss issues regarding gender equality, rights and sustainability for the younger generations. 37


EMMA WATSON X ZADY On the 22nd of Septmeber 2016 an article written by Emma Spedding in the Telegraph was released showcasing the first glimpse of Emma Watson’s new collaboration with slow fashion company ‘Zady’. Zady are a independent sustainable fashion brand located in the heart New York city who specialise in the production cycle of making garments. Their main focus is to work closely with consumers to create timeless and special garments. By doing so, Zady are able to reduce any excess product waste and help care for the environment by using less machinery. Their website is a great insight in to a fashion brand who’s main ethos is to rebuild the way we buy clothes. Emma Watson’s collection with Zady is a 11 items only range and has an appearance of simple, chic, classic and effortless. The range includes; roll kneck jumpers, silk dresses and pencil skirts, all of which are only available in a neutral palette. All items range from a minimum of ¢160.00 to the maximum price of ¢350.00 which is an appropriate price point when using sustainable materials. You can see Emma wearing pieces of her collection on her Instagram page.

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Photo Credit: Emma Watson / Zady

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SUSIE BUBBLE Photo Credit: Susie Bubble’s Blog

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322 Thousand 278 Thousand 81 Thousand

ABOUT Susie Bubble is one of the worlds most renowned fashion bloggers, born in 1983 and raised in the United Kingdom, Susie first started her blog in 2006, which shortly became widely recognized by hundreds and thousands of people. Whilst Susie was a free lance blogger, she was also the commissioning editor of DazedDigital.com which was perfect for gaining experience in the fashion sector. In a 2011 interview on Business of fashion called ‘the business of blogging’, Susie was reported to be attracting over 25,000 views per day on her blog. With projects and collaborations with some of the worlds most established Companies such as Dr. Martens, Giorgio Arami and Selfridges, Susie has been able to make a life’s career worth out of blogging. She recently featured in one of British Vogue’s short Youtube documentaries where it showed you around Susie bubbles house and her wonderful, wacky and outrageously vibrant wardrobe. 41


INSIDE SUSIE BUBBLES HOME Susie Bubble has become quite the celebrity over the success of her blogging career. A short documentary by Vogue, invites you in to Susie’s home, where she shows you her colourful and jam packed full wardrobe along with a ‘how to pack your suitcase for fashion week’ tutorial. It seems in recent years with the rise in social media, that younger generations are more interested in fashion influencer’s like Susie than seeing what Rihanna or Adele has to offer inside their houses. The wonderful world of blogging has reached new levels with millions of people competing to be the ‘next’ big thing. Susie is a great example of a well established blogger, with her own individual style and identity.

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Photo Credit: Susie Bubble’s Blog

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CHIARA

FERRAGNI

Photo Credit: The Blonde Salad.com

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8 Million 313 Thousand 1.2 Million

ABOUT Chiara Ferragni, more famously known as The Blonde Salad, is an Italian business woman and a famous fashion influencer on social media. Chiara’s social media fame spirals down to her fashion blog that she runs called ‘the blonde salad’, where she uploads and shares a variety of fashion led content. Ferragni first launched her website in 2009 where she used her blog as an outlet to express herself during her teenage years. As well as Chiara having one of the most successful blogs of all time, she is also a famous model who’s been featured on the front covers of magazines such as Vogue and currently works for the designer brand Guess. Her Online stardom is far from any other blogger, attracting over 8 million followers on Instagram, it seems Chiara has built an Online empire. Chiara has recently launched an Online shop which aims to promote up and coming designers and give them the support and guidance needed to be successful. 45


Shop.theblondesalad was recently launched by Chiara Ferragni and the team of TBS to bring people a brand new platform to promote and encourage fashion enthusiasts to become entrepreneurs. After the enormous success of Chiara’s blog, ‘The Blonde Salad’ with over 14 million views per month, she felt it was the next step to open a shop which allows her followers to explore fresh new talent. She has over 9 existing pages full of emerging brands under her shop, where you can explore their collections and even purchase from their individual ranges. The other motif for this platform is to use her background experience of being a successful business woman to give the brands she believes in to become massive designers. With contacts such as Vogue, Grazia, Glamour and Elle, brands adopting Chiara’s programme know its their key to success. What I personally love about this ‘set up’ programme is how willing Chiara is to helping and supporting up and coming fashion entrepreneurs. With the rise in social media, I cant help but think its a lot harder to getting discovered due to the competition being so high. Shop.theblondesalad leaves you links to ‘apply’ to be part of her programme, whether its to promote your brand or work for the organization. The power of this shop I believe has given young talent the positive energy they need to excel and truly believe in themselves. The most inspirational thing about Chiara herself and this programme is her positive out look on helping others accomplish something amazing. Just like herself, she became established through the power of the Internet, so she puts trusts in those who granted her successful to also make them recognised. Its nice to know that fashion influencer’s like Chiara are helping shape the future of fashion and giving people the confidence to accomplish something that they can call their own. I’m optimistic about the future of bloggers as I think figures such as Chiara, genuinely want to help others. 46


Photo Credit: The Blonde Salad.com

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SOURCES USED ALEXA CHUNG

EMMA WATSON

SUSIE BUBBLE

CHIARA FERRAGNI

Alexa Chung. (2016). The Future of Fashion. Available: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=1u0KzfgVn1I. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. Emma Spedding. (2016). Emma Watson creates her own chic sustainable fashion. Available: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ fashion/people/emma-watson-creates-herown-chic-sustainable-fashion-wardrobe--a/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. British Vogue. (2016). Susie Bubbles Wardrobe. Available: https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=OwYiNRmtx88. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. Lauren Cochrane. (2016). How a crazy Blogger turned her life into a shop window. Available: https://www.theguardian.com/ Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. 48


CHAPTER 3:

SUS TAIN ABLE Photo Credit: Neemic 2015 Collection

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COMPANIES PRACTICING FASHION SUSTAINABILITY

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INTRODUCTION In this chapter I will be exploring and highlighting a variety of Companies that practice fashion sustainability as their main ethos. Showing a mixture of different Influencers, designers and companies that are utilising these key methods to help the environment. I will conduct all elements of their back ground including their history, brands ethos and production line process. The purpose of this chapter is to show my natural development throughout this unit BA2A and my chosen path of fashion sustainability. I will explore and learn the key elements needed to be a thriving fashion sustainable practitioner in this contemporary age. The other aim is to broaden my knowledge of other important factors that contribute to fashion apart from the things that only appear on the surface.

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Company Neemic is a designer brand initiated in 2011 by Aminhan Zemp and Hans Martin Galliker with three visions at heart, their main one being; making the industry more sustainable followed by, providing a platform for artistic exchange and creating beautiful designs. NEEMIC commits to responsible use of resources and predominately uses leftover materials from the high-end fashion industry. Their aim is to incorporate sustainable fashion but still give it a luxury and clean cut aesthetic. 52


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Photo Credit: Neemic.com


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Photo Credit: Neemic.com


Photo Credit: Katie Jones.com

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KATIE JONES Katie Jones is an inspirational knitwear label that combines vibrant colours with sustainable materials together to create something playful and inviting. Kate Jones herself, founder and Creator of her brand graduated from central st martins in 2013 after studying an MA in fashion knitwear. Having worked with John Galliano, Diane Von Frustenberg and Mark Fast her romance was born and she created a Autumn/ Winter 2014 range with the British Fashion Council’s Estethica Emerging talents. Embracing Katie’s grandma’s vision of making something beautiful from nothing, she addresses the issues of consumerism and landfill throughout the production of her designs and clothes. Each piece is a labour of love and hand crafted in London by an intimate team of makers. Kate Jones is stocked in over three Countires; London, China and Japan and is regularly featured in magazine publications such as Dazed and confused, Vice, The Guardian and Vogue.

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AURIA Auria swim-wear, founded by Diana Auria in 2012 was one of the first to use a sustainable fiber called ECONYL developed by Aquafil. Her collections are made out of regenerated nylon waste that comes from discarded fishing nets, carpets and other materials. A company In Slovenia specialises in rescuing rubbish from the sea which is then brought to a treatment centre in Slovenia where they turn the old fishnets and other materials into Diana’s swim-wear range. Auria has made headlines and been featured in many magazine publications such as; Elle, Grazia and Vogue and has also been worn by celebrities such as Rihanna, Daisy Lowe and Eliza Doolittle in recent years. 58


Photo Credit: Auria.com

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SOURCES USED

NEEMIC

KATIE JONES

AURIA

Alessandro De Toni. (2014). Neemic Sustainable Fashion. Available: http://www.coolhunting. com/style/neemic-beijing-womenswear. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. Jake Hall. (2016). Five Designers Revolutionising. Available: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29019/1/fivedesigners-revolutionising-sustainable-fashion. Jake Hall. (2016). Five Designers Revolutionising. Available: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/29019/1/fivedesigners-revolutionising-sustainable-fashion. 60


CHAPTER 4: Photo Credit: Neuba.com

SPE AK ERS 61


GU ES T

SPEAKERS 62


INTRODUCTION In this chapter I will be exploring and highlighting a variety of Companies that practice fashion sustainability as their main ethos. Showing a mixture of different Influencers, designers and companies that are utilising these key methods to help the environment. I will conduct all elements of their back ground including their history, brands ethos and production line process. The purpose of this chapter is to show my natural development throughout this unit BA2A and my chosen path of fashion sustainability. I will explore and learn the key elements needed to be a thriving fashion sustainable practitioner in this contemporary age. The other aim is to broaden my knowledge of other important factors that contribute to fashion apart from the things that only appear on the surface.

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JAMES HAYES

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Photo Credit: Neuba.com


As part of this unit, we’ve been visited by a variety of individuals with a background in fashion. One of the first talks we had was by a brand manager to Company Neuba called James Hayes. Neuba is a slow fashion brand who focuses on the production process when making garments. With over 13 stockists worldwide, Neuba is a well established brand meaning they are able to build on their company. Neuba’s brand manager, James Hayes is responsible for practically everything when it comes to the brand’s identity and has a great back ground history working with clients and other professionals. Tutor, Harriet invited James in to conduct a talk all about fashion P.R where he spoke thoroughly about the key elements when working for a public relations company. He talked us through the nuts and bolts of what p.r means, all the way through to ‘how to cater to all client’s’. James has a past with working for public relation companies and one company he expanded deeply on was ‘Starwork’s. Starworks is one of the worlds most established P.R Agencies with clients such as: H&M, Kenzo, Saint Laurent and L’Oreal. He explained that their is two differences in the world of public relations, one is that its simply P.R and the other is that they are P.R Agencies. Both differentiate from one another but the main being, clients. James spoke us through both job roles and explained that most P.R companies do the general jobs of; writing press releases, writing pitches, creating special events and conducting market research where the other job role for p.r is the professional maintenance of a favorable public image. James showed us some examples of his conducted market research on celebrities which was a great example of ways I could explore my avenues.

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‘GOOD P.R IS A RESULT OF GOOD PLANNING’. - JAMES HAYES


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Photo Credit: Neuba.com


Photo Credit: Brittany Bathgate.com

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BRITTANY BATHGATE Brittany Bathgate, a local fashion and lifestyle blogger from Norwich, Norfolk, first created her blog in 2015, which mainly focuses on her personal style throughout a series of weekly posts. Over the last few years, Brittany has accumulated over 139,000 Instagram followers and has collaborated with established Companies such as Adidas, COS, Nike and Urban Outfitters, creating stylised posts for them. She has also been featured in magazine publications such as Elle for ‘The Best Styling Tips on Instagram’. Whats most warming about Brittany is how humble she is about blogging, she explained how she was still ‘baffled’ that she was Instagram Famous and that people were genuinely interested in her life through social media. She also explained how depending on what she posts, her followers are a clear indication to if

they like or hate it as her followers will fluctuate as a result of it. Brittany’s followers suddenly decreased during the 2012-2013 period when she was traveling, she explained that her followers weren’t interested in seeing her holiday snaps, they only wanted to see her usual regular content from back home. She lastly spoke about how her followers are “fickle” and if she posts something out of character from her instagram page, her followers will respond negatively. She explained how she naturally became her own brand but didn’t expect to always stay the same. Whats most endearing about Brittany is how genuine she is about blogging, she doesn’t give off a persona that its purely for money purposes and its just fun to record parts of her life.. I find nowadays its more difficult to find humble Instagram bloggers. 69


NOR - FO LK Just before Christmas break, Nor-folk came to Norwich University of the arts to deliver a presentation about their life and their living brand. They kindly showed us the development of their brand over the previous few years and explained how quickly they became established on Instagram. It was a extremely invaluable experience being able to meet such humble entrepreneurs who have such a positive outlook of keeping their brand as part of their family. They reminded us that although creating your own brand is stressful and has its bad days, work should be fun, enjoyable and worth doing. Fiona and bobby are great examples of entrepreneurs that can live and breathe their brand whilst maintaining a strong relationship with their son and juggling day to day life.

Graphic Designers - husband and wife, Fiona and Bobby Burrage from Norwich, Norfolk, first founded their own design brand mid Novemeber 2014 after having a keen eye for interior design and taste in clean fashion. Mum and dad to their son Stanley have built a family related brand, inviting kids, mums, dads and others to a virtual community world. No-folk are a graphic design-led lifestyle brand who sell products ranging from t-shirts to mugs and copper tape. Their aim is to create and sell products that they want or already have in their home themselves to give others a taste for their ethos. Since becoming well recognised both locally and globally, Fiona and Bobby have had the opportunity to collaborate with some of the worlds coolest up coming companies such as Tokyobike and adnams. 70


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Photo Credit: Nor-folk


Hidden agency, is a full-service creative agency who focus all their efforts on creating original and diverse content for clients such as Pull and Bear, Puma and Mathew miller. Unlike other fashion related creative agencies, hidden offers a full service of business assistance, from creating films to holding exclusive events. During term time, we we’re fortunate enough to visit York’s short film aesthetica festival which hosted a variety of today’s most successful advertising, branding and marketing professionals. Hidden remained the highlight of my time at ASFF due to their genuine mentality and out look on fashion marketing with helping some of the worlds most established brands excel further. The talk was an honest and relaxed presentation where they were willing to tell us everything they possibly could about their individual journeys and experience through their creative agency together. Although they have worked with big labels and brands, the work they produce for clients remains with hiddens touch and you can always tell their work from other agencies.

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Photo Credit: Hidden.com

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Photo Credit: Hidden.com


JON RE VE LL Photo Credit: Jon Revell.com

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Just before Christmas, Jon kindly came in to do a talk about his experience in photography and film. This was key for the development of our Campaigns and a really good opportunity to add depth to particular elements that perhaps we hadn’t yet explored. One thing that Jon spoke a lot about was how important it is to know your target audience, especially in the photography industry where you work a lot with different types of models and professionals. One thing that really benefited me when thinking about my Campaign was the pdf’s that Jon creates before his shoots.. Listing all the products, objects and location shoots etc. It was great to get an insight into the production line and set up of how professionals work in fashion.

Jon Revell... a film director, Filmer, editorial, commercial and celebrity photographer specialises in capturing artistic and sharp images. His work has been featured in Sainsbury’s, Malibu alcohol and fashion designer Beau Homme’s campaigns. Based in London and scared of all social media, Revell relies solidly on his website to get him work. Although he’s not in tune with digital promotion, Jon seems to get enough work to be a free lance photographer and allows him to create more free and experimental shots. His work ranges from sophisticated clean cut shots to more high speed photography where capturing movement is key.

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Photo Credit: Jon Revell.com

Photo Credit: Jon Revell.com

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ANNA RAD CHENKO Photo Credit: Anna Radchenko.com

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After graduating in 2014 from London College of Fashion with an MA In Fashion Photography, Anna Radchenko is a free lance art director and image maker based in London. She has had work featured in publications such as Schon, WD, DU, HUF and fashion shift. Anna specialises in creating artistic and diverse photographs that capture dream like scenes. Alongside photography Anna also enjoys creating short fashion films and has a keen eye for a strong and bold aesthetic. Anna recently under went a Nick Knight course at London College of Fashion to learn the key elements needed when creating successful films. Her work hasn’t gone unnoticed and has been featured in short film aethetica’s around the UK. During this unit, we we’re kindly welcomed by a visiting lecture with Anna Radchenko where she talked us through her work and hers way of finding inspiration. Anna showed us a variety of her work, including a fashion film that a few of us had previously seen at York short film festival, which video’s three elderly ladies looking glamorous in metallic and vibrant clothes. One thing in particularly stood out to me about Anna, it was her honesty when telling us about how she gets inspired. Unlike any other lecturer or professional that has delivered us a talk, Anna is the only person I know that uses Pinterest to gather inspiration from.. She searches positioning, set design and ways of photographing to make a vision become reality. When collecting existing inspiration, she puts them into a folder before creating mood boards to present to others days before the shoot. Her work was a great example of something I hope to do in the near future after graduating as it seems that although her job is hard work, it’s fun.

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Photo Credit: Anna Radchenko.com

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SOURCES USED

JAMES HAYES

Neuba. (). Neuba. Available: http://neuba.uk/. Last accessed 10t Jan 2017.

BRITTANY BATHGATE

Brittany Bathgate. (2015). Blog. Available: http://brittanybathgate.co.uk/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

NOR-FOLK

or-folk . (). Nor-folk. Available: http://www.norfolk.com/about-the-nor-folk/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. 84


SOURCES USED

HIDDEN AGENCY

Hidden Agency. (). Hidden Agency. Available: http://www.hidden-agency.com/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

JON REVELL

Jon Revell. (). Jon Revell. Available: http:// jonrevell.com/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

ANNA RADCHENKO

Anna Radchenko. (). Anna Radchenko. Available: http://www.annaradchenko.com/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017. 85


JOB ROLES IN Photo Credit: Tim Walker.com

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FASH ION 87


CHAPTER 5:

DIR ECT ORS 88

Photo Credit: Alexandra Shulman / Vogue.com


INTRODUCTION In this chapter I will exploring and identifying the key job roles within the fashion industry. Presenting a mixture of Creative Designers work along side free lance photographers and film makers. This is to gather a deeper understanding of the key contributors that work in fashion and to broaden my knowledge of their specific job titles. The purpose of this chapter is to show that I’m passionate about researching contributors and able to differentiate people’s strong points and niche’s from one another. The figure’s I’ve chosen to explore in this chapter are a representation of people that have inspired my work and people I hope to explore further in years to follow.

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Photo Credit: Alexandra Shulman / Vogue.com


ALEXANDRA SHULMAN Alexander Shulman, Editor-and-chief of British Vogue has been the Companies responsible figure for over 25 years. Alexander born on the 13th November 1957 first began her carer working in music production where she slowly veered off and found an outstanding love for journalism. 1982 marks an important year for Shulman, a year where her life began to change at quite a radical speed.. Being hired by the tatler and working as their journalist, she then began writing for the Sunday telegraph and vogue where she became editor 8 years on. As the editor of Vogue, Shulman makes various decisions on the magazines stance, from magazine covers to who’s to feature in each publication. Along side Shulman, her good friend Lucinda Cambers is second in command being ‘Fashion Director’ where they work very closely to create the prestigious publication. Recently their was a documentary called Absolutely Fashion - in side vogue, which showed you behind the doors of the longest standing fashion publication of all time.

I significantly admire Alexander Shulman for being the editor and chief at Vogue. A job like that, especially in the public eye for being the prestigious magazine fashion bible comes with massive responsibility and ultimately she is the person that has to take total blame and responsibility. After watching the documentary Absolutely fashion, Many people have spoke negatively about Alexander Shulman, especially commenting on her attitude when talking to other people. I however, think that she is wrongfully accused of being miserable and often mistaken for just being careful. With Alexander being the chief of Vogue, everybody questions her every move so she must have to be especially careful when it comes to answering questions or talking to the wrong sorts of people.. for example: paparazzi. 91


Photo Credit: Olivier Rousteing / BOF

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OLIVIER ROUSTEING The reason I admire Olivier’s work all spirals down to his background in fashion. Adopted and raised by his adoptive parents, Olivier moved away from home, to Italy where he became a dancer by evening to pay his rent to peruse a carer in fashion. He’s a great example of a designer who’s pushed himself from nothing to create something amazing and uses fashion as a way to express his emotions. The role he plays in social media is significant to me as he doesn’t care what he posts unlike other designers, who mainly only uses social media platforms to promote their brand further.. where it seems Olivier genuinely want to share his life and treat social media like his diary. He is a designer I will definitely remember in the future for both his work and his personality.

Olivier Rousteing, French fashion designer and creative director of Balmain is only 31 years old. Rousteing first became the helm of Balmain in 2011, aged 24 where he was appointed one of the youngest creative directors in Paris after Yves Saint Laurent. Rousteing is especially known for his online social presence, having over 4.2 million Instagram followers he is good friends with famous figures such as Kim Kardashian, Alexa Chung and Karl Lagerfeld. Olivier focuses his work and collections on the strength of women and aims to empower them through his bold creative designs. Not only is he passionate about womens rights but he is also a strong advocate for diversity in fashion, unlike other designers, Olivier has channeled the strength of racial diversity at the fore front of his work and as a result has a strong customer base because of it. All of Rousteing’s work seems to entail heavy gold and black embellished sequins and clean cut simple silhouettes that are worn by many stars such as Kim Kardashian. 93


Photo Credit: Nick Knight.com

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FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY

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NICK KNIGHT Nick Knight, one of the worlds most renowned fashion photographers has been creating imagery for over 4 decades. Photographing prestigious figures such as Alexander McQueen, Kate Moss and John Galliano, Nick has been at the fore front of fashion photography, making himself one of the most well known image makers of all time. His clients include creating regular editorial content for Vogue, Dazed and confused, I-D and another man, where his work inside the publications are distributed world wide. Experimenting with different forms of creative meanings, Nick incorporates them into his work to remain contemporary and exciting. His work marks a unique platform which is what makes his work so memorable. The reason I warm to Nick’s work and find it especially inspiring is because its unlike any other fashions photographers work. The use of shape throughout his work is remarkable and he’s yet to disappoint me... Whenever I visit fashion exhibitions, I can detect Nick’s work from others. The image to the right is one of my favourite images of Knights, the colours and composition of the image is extremely powerful. When moving in to year three, fashion photography is definitely something I wish to touch on more.

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Photo Credit: Nick Knight.com

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TIM WALKER 98

Photo Credit: Tim Walker.com


Born in England 1970, Tim Walker’s award winning photography skills have hardly gone unrecognized. After graduating from Exeter College of Art with a BA in photography, Walkers work has become worldly identified. Not only has he been producing monthly images for Vogue for over a decade, Tim has also exhibited his work in major museums such as the Design Museum of London and Somerset House London. His work captures romantic patterns and extra exaggerated staging which makes Tim’s work, tims. As well as his love for image making he has also discovered a passion for moving image and has constructed many short clips add films. Photographers such as Tim Walker and Nick Knight play a significant role in my journey through fashion photography as they mark a very important role and are both great examples of figures that have very close relations with companies such Vogue. What I admire most about Walker’s work is his theatrical element throughout his work, whether its his portraits images or his ‘story teller’ collection, I can tell it’s his work from a mile away. This is an important thing to address as a practitioner in fashion communication and promotion.. I feel Tim walker has found his niche and what makes his work different from others, and thats what I hope to develop within my own practice. One of the reasons people become recognized is because their work is their work and unlike anybody else’s. Self discovery is a journey but I feel the more I accomplish at university, the more im beginning to find myself and what I excel at doing. Photography plays a significant role in both university work and outside university.. Especially when being a blogger. 99


FASHION

FILM 100


Photo Credit: Alexander McQueen and Tom Hirst

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Photo Credit: Burberry.com

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British Film Maker Asif Kapadia has directed several award winning films including The Warrior released in 2011 along with the 2010 hit film Senna. Born in 1972 in north London, Asif achieved a first-class degree in Film from the University of Westminster where he then went to the Royal College of Art to complete a MA in film and TV directing. One of Kapadia’s most well known film/documentary’s was the life and death of British sing-songwriter Amy Winehouse.. However following the latest success of the 2016 christmas advert for Burberry called ‘The Tale Of Thomas Burberry’ directed by Asif, it has received nothing but fantastic reviews on the Internet. Kapadia seems to have a natural flair for threading emotion into everything he produces.

ASIF KAPADIA Following a lecture with Alex, on last years TV Christmas Fashion advertisements, I was yet to discover and learn about Asif Kapadia’s work. I would be denying if I was to say that I didn’t fall absolutely head over heels in love with the advert but I hadn’t ever experienced any other film campaign like it. The reason I was instantly drawn to the film campaign was because of the suspense and emotion used in summarising the tale of, designer Thomas Burberry. From the production to the staging and aesthetic, I thought everything was captured remarkably. Having experience in editing and filming outside university myself, I especially know how difficult it is to incorporate suspense and emotion in to film and apart from Asif Kapadia, nobody else has given me this feeling in such a short constructed film.

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Based in New York City, Maya Margolina is a Uzbekistan born film Director, Producer and Editor of video Content. Maya currently works at the Made In NY Media Center where she is currently working on a 360 Virtual music video soap opera. Margolina has a history working with Conde Nast company Allure, producing short films that are regularly featured on their Youtube Channel exhibiting: fun, humorous and light hearted content. Reality TV celebrity and super model Kendall Jenner features in one of Maya’s video where she ‘tries out 9 things shes never done before’ which has received over 2.1 million views since September 2016. For someone like myself who’s immersed in the world of Youtube, I’ve come across Maya’s work a lot which has resulted me being a big fan of hers. Although her work for Allure matches their brand aesthetic, her way of directing captures the true identity of raw material. From the positioning to the slightly awkward and mysterious way of directing the models, I personally feel her work differs from other Conde Nast competitors like Vogue. Stylized yet simplistic ways of shooting is a avenue I definitely wish to explore more on through the rest of my time at university.

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Photo Credit: Liv Harrould / Screen Shot of Film

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Photo Credit: Unknown / Google Images

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FASHION

STYLING

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Photo Credit: Unknown / Google Images

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KATE YOUNG Kate Young definitely has a young way with styling when it comes to dressing some of the worlds most glamorous superstars such as Sienna Miller, Selena Gomez and Dakota Johnson. However, its really about what landed Kate’s styling career which is a good story.. Mum of two, Kate who majored with English and Art history in college, spent years as an internship in the fashion industry doing PR work before one day coming to the realisation that she wanted to become a fashion stylist. With initially aspiring to work at a fashion magazine, Young landed herself a PR job at Vogue, working along side Anna Wintour where an opportunity to become a stylist suddenly opened up.. After years of working out exactly what she wanted to do, she landed herself her first ever styling job and since then.. its all history. As well as Kate dressing Celebrity figures, she also enjoys working along side fashion designers including her close friend Jason Wu. The great thing about Kate’s story is really how far its got her.. just type her name in to google and numerous articles will appear on Kate Youngs top tips for being one of the worlds most well known fashion stylists.

Kate’s styling has particularly inspired me in terms of what job role I’d like to apply for once graduating university. Although styling may appear an easy job title in fashion, I think the reality of it is a lot more challenging, especially having previously worked on a photo shoot, I can tell that its the lead up and organization of the shoot or look that is difficult. Being obsessed with social media has its perks, especially when it comes to keeping on top of the latest trends and styles that companies are releasing. This is why I think perhaps I will venture down a similar avenue to Kate’s as I feel I naturally do a small proportion of it already.

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Photo Credit: Tracey Nicholson

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Photo Credit: Tracey Nicholson

Born in Belfast, Tracey Nicholson moved to London to study at Central St Martins before relocating to New York to become an assistant stylist for Tabitha Simmons. She currently splits her time between London and New York and contributes to magazines such as Dazed and Confused, British Vogue and E&A. Moving forward in to something, Tracey has ventured into short films and has recently just completed a short film which was commissioned by Topshop and the British fashion C. Tracey’s styling is sleek, simple and timeless, which is crucial when styling clients from Vogue.

I first came across Tracey’s work when I saw her name advertised along side a shoot featured in Dazed. What I like most about Tracey’s styling is the maturity and timeless aesthetic she creates. Her eye for creating expensive and classic looking outfits hardly goes unrecognised. I personally like exploring Tracey’s Instagram as I feel its where she uploads her montage of portfolio work alongside more personal photos where you really get a sense of her personality. 111


DIRECTORS

ALEXANDER SHULMAN

Hadley Freeman . (2016). Inside Vogue by Alexandra Shulman Review . Available: https:// www.theguardian.com/books/2016/nov/16/ inside-vogue-alexandra-shulman-reviewbritish. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

OLIVIER ROUSTEING

Unknown. (unknown ). About Olivier Rousteing. Available: https://www. businessoffashion.com/community/people/ olivier-rousteing. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

PHOTOGRAPHERS

NICK KNIGHT

Jo Craven. (unknown ). Nick Knight. Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/nick-knightbiography. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

TIM WALKER

Jessica Bumpus . (unknown ). Tim Walker . Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/timwalker-biography. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

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FILM MAKERS

ASIF KAPADIA

Scarlett Conlon. (2016). Sienna and Lily Make Burberry's Christmas. Available: http://www. vogue.co.uk/article/burberry-christmas2016-campaign-sienna-miller-lily-james-thetale-of-thomas-burberry. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

MAYA MARGOLINA

Maya Margolina. (2016). Maya Margolina. Available: http://www.mayamargolina.com/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

STYLISTS

KATE YOUNG

Karina Hoshikawa. (2016). How Kate When From A Magazine .... Available: http:// fashionista.com/2016/06/kate-young-stylistinterview. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

TRACEY NICHOLSON

Tracey Nicholson. (2016). Work. Available: http://www.streeters.com/news/tag/ sourcecolon+Tracey+Nicholson. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

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CHAPTER 6:

Photo Credit: Unknown / Bella Hadid

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WORK

EXPERIENCE 115


BOOHOO .COM Photo Credit: Boohoo.com

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MY JOB ROLE Gaining work experience within the industry is crucial for my progression in fashion. Blogging outside of university has opened up many opportunities which fortunately goes hand in hand with my course at University. During last summer, I was fortunate enough to land myself a job role working for the fast fashion online brand Boohoo.com to become one of their student brand ambassadors. The job entails producing regular content for boohoo on my social media platforms such as Instagram for my followers on enjoy. Landing myself the job wasn’t an easy task and it took me two online interviews to get offered the position. How It first came about was when a friend of mine studying fashion design at NUA forwarded me an boohoo email that her lecturers had sent her class.. However the requirements were that you had to be a blogger/vlogger with a minimum of 2,000 followers on a social platform, unfortunately my friend didn’t have that but she kindly forwarded me in the email in which to apply for. After two rounds of filming why I want to work for them along with writing short statements why I would be a good candidate, I secured a place on their programme until I graduate. 118


Photo Credit: Liv Harrould

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Photo Credit: Liv Harrould


‘I’VE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO ATTEND PRESS DAYS’ Being part of Boohoo’s team, I have my own personal manager who looks after my blogging role at their HQ, located in Manchester. Being in regular content with my manager means i’m able to utilise her for personal questions to do with blogging and more professional queries that I may have with my fashion communication degree. I’ve been fortunate enough to attend press day’s alongside meetings and presentations with the whole boohoo team. Last week I met one of the C.E.O’s of boohoo, Carol Kane. Coming from a background in fashion marketing, she had worked her self up in the fashion industry for over 10 years gaining experiencing in: branding, marketing, buying, retailing and public relations before becoming one of two executive directors of boohoo. Along side Carol, I’ve met a majority of the P.R and social media team with a few additions of the mens-wear and womens-wear designing team. Gaining experience at boohoo has been extremely beneficial for my university experience and future plans for perusing a career in fashion. I hope that when I graduate I’m able to work for boohoo full time.. I’ve already started researching into available job opportunities and have found a few roles I’m interested in applying for. 121


THE GUARDIAN 122


Photo Credit: The Guardian / All Ages

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ALL


Photo Credit: The Guardian / All Ages

AGES

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MY EXPERIENCE Not really having much previous experience in the world of fashion styling, the anticipation of the day was daunting however this was quickly diminished as soon as I arrived and was greeted by a warm friendly hug from Melanie. The atmosphere was super relaxed and the guy they hire the space from on a regular basis had made us all home made bread, cakes and croissants along side freshly squeezed orange juice and fruit. The idea of meeting professionals from established Companies such as The Guardian is so different from the reality of it, which was really humbling. After getting to know the team including the: stylist, makeup artist, hair artist and photographer, I learnt how intimately they work with one another to produce high quality work. I never really thought about working in fashion and being part of a family however after assisting at The Guardian, I got the sense that this was far from my initial thoughts. Having a taste for styling, I’m eager to gain more experience in this field of work as its a route I’m hoping explore once graduating from university.

On the 23rd of January, I made my way down to London to help assist on a shoot with the publication The Guardian. I helped assist on a shoot that they regularly create content for called ‘All Ages. All Ages is a on going section included in The Guardian which features in the latest rends on a variety of different ages.. to highlight that, whatever age you are, you can still rock it. Stylist for The Guardian, Melanie Wilkinson runs this section that is typically published both online and in side the guardian, every 2/3 weeks. I was invited for the day to help Melanie out with organising the fashion wardrobe and catering the models needs. I firstly started off with steaming and organising the clothes in to categories before shooting and helping the models get changed etc. Whilst the shoot was in full swing, Melanie kindly requested that I sat down and took some time out to really soak up the atmosphere and the environment.

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Photo Credit: Liv Harrould


My personal experience of meeting Shukeel is very similar to the description of him on his website. His relaxed way of working yet chirpy personality really helped me relax when first getting introduced to the team. He asked me many questions about my position within fashion and what I’m hoping to do in the future. What I most learned about Shukeel, was the way he can cater for all different types of clients. No matter what age, he was brilliant at talking to people. What was even more endearing about Shukeel was how humble he was. He wasn’t interested in talking about his work or what amazing opportunities he’s previously done. It was only later on that evening when I researched him online where I learned that he had styled for Vivienne Westwood’s Golden Label Fashion show.

Shukeel Murtaza first began his career at Toni & Guy before becoming an educational professor/teacher for worldrenowned brands such as Tigi, L’Oreal And Wella. After years of traveling, Shukeel became a free lance hair stylist and has had his work featured in publications such as British Vogue, Glamour and GQ. Murtaza has a huge portfolio of work having worked with advertising firms, fashion shows and celebrities. He’s worked for sing songwriters such as Tom Odell and fashion designers such as Chanel, Balmain and Vivienne Westwood’s gold label. Whats most endearing about Shukeel is his innovative approach which goes hand in hand with his super laid back manner and enthusiastic drive.

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Photo Credit: Sohn Magazine


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Photo Credit: The Guardian / All Ages


Celebrity Makeup Artist and Beauty Writer, Lisa Stokes has been in the beauty industry for over 2 decades. Having her clients ranging from celebrity faces such as Kate Moss to Daniel Craig, Lisa has quite the dream job. Her editorial and fashion clients include In Style, Elle and The Guardian. A lover and expert in skincare and beauty, Lisa has a wealth and knowledge of experience in this sector. My personal experience of meeting Lisa was quite similar to meeting Shukeel.. From first getting introduced to them both, I felt at immediate ease. She complimented me on my make-up and asked me many questions about what cosmetics I use. She was such a bubbly, fun and positive character and a real pleasure to work along side. She treated me how she treated everyone else on the shoot which was greatly appreciated. Despite any fears I initially had about the day, they all disappeared the second they all hugged me.

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Fashion stylist, Melanie Wilkinson has been working at The Guardian for quite some time. Talented in fashion styling has allowed Melanie to create regular content for the feature called ‘All Ages’ which is released typically every 2/3 weeks in The Guardian. Mel’s an efficient and quick worker and has a great eye for up coming fashion trends. My personal experience first meeting Melanie was enjoyable. From her greeting me with a warm hug and saying ‘please, call me mel’, She made me feel totally relaxed from the word hello. She was also completely herself around me and was super enthusiastic about me helping assist her on the shoot. What I learnt about mel was how she has to keep calm and collective in order to get the job done.. In tense moments like every fashion shoot, Mel tackled situations in a calm manner which appears quite rare and took the responsibility upon herself at all times. I couldn’t have been blessed with a nicer stylist to assist alongside and I hope in the near future we are able to connect again.

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Photo Credit: The Guardian / All Ages


THE GUARDIAN

ALL AGES

Melanie Wilkinson. (2016). All Ages. Available: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/series/ fashion-for-all-ages. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

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CONTRIBUTORS

SHUKEEL MURTAZA

Shukeel Murtaza. (2016). Hair Stylist. Available: http://shukeelmurtaza.co.uk/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

LISA STOKES

Lisa Stokes . (2016). Makeup Artist. Available: http://www.lisastokes.com/. Last accessed 12 Jan 2017.

MELANIE WILKINSON

Melanie Wilkinson. (2016). All Ages. Available: https://www.theguardian.com/ fashion/series/fashion-for-all-ages. Last 135


USEFUL BOOKS CHAPTER 7: As a promise to myself this year at University, I made it my mission to gather my information from sources other than online. Through this unit of linking our work to a sustainable, ethical or cultural issue in fashion, this was the perfect opportunity to build up my book collection. From directing my route in this unit to fashion sustainability, there was a great selection of great books filled with invaluable information to support my work. The books I have been delving into are the following: Sandy Black The Sustainable Fashion Handbook, Mark Tungate - Fashion Brands, Gaynor Lea-Greenwood - Fashion Marketing Communications and Carol Cadwell & Yolanda Zappaterra - Editorial Design book. All these books have been a great support in my journey through this unit and helped me develop a deeper understanding of fashion and its many layers. 136


Photo Credit: Unknown / Google Images

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138 Photo Credit: Amazon.com


EDITORIAL DESIGN By - Carol Cadwell & Yolanda Zappaterra.

Following our group session with Darren Leader, the graphic communication teacher, I was interested to go home and research into some graphic books. I found a few on Amazon which I thought would be beneficial purchasing however they weren’t very fashion ‘focused’. I was looking for it to be more fashion lead, with examples of magazine layouts etc. My luck changed when I came across this Editorial design - digital and print book by Cath Caldwell & Yolanda Zappaterra. Its divided into 7 Chapters, each with a different focus. I found chapter 4 the most interesting.. this was - inside the publication where it talked you through the importance of each page in a publication. I’m a very visual person so this book is ideal for layout ideas, pages 78-79 were in particularly inspiring.. It talked me through the importance of having a contents page and how to design one to cover basic information and how to display it in a professional way. After reading those pages I was feeling eager to create my contents page to my who’s who in fashion and industry file book. I feel I’ve definitely learned some invaluable information from reading this chapter, which will be super beneficial for Year 3 and finishing my degree. 139


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In able to learn these techniques, what better way then to put them into practice. After gaining an insight into how to construct a content page I thought I would be beneficial to give it a go myself. I firstly began by writing out each element which I wanted to categorize, this took a little while to think of all the key elements that I wanted to include. I then began laying it out on InDesign. To the left is a screen shot of when I was constructing the page. Our industry file is to essentially highlight our activity and position in fashion, So I was trying to devise a method which made it very clear to the reader. I’ve aimed to include all things I’ve learned in Year 2 as well as outside of University.. For example, I have included a Chapter called - ‘Work Experience’ where I have documented being a student ambassador for boohoo... I love the idea of logging everything I learn, especially as its my chosen career path and I’ll now have content to show during interviews for future jobs etc.

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Photo Credit: Liv Harrould


FASHION MARKETING

COMMUNICATIONS Another book which I’ve been finding extremely useful for this unit is Gaynor Lea-Greenwoods book - Fashion Marketing Communications. Within the book, I’ve been closely reading Chapter 4 ‘The Power Of Magazines’ as it has some really great examples of the relationships that magazine companies have with their consumers. The thing I liked most about reading this chapter was that she used some examples of their customers and this was included in one of ‘their’ case studies. It was really interesting to see how precise their target audience is, they gain such a clear insight into their readers. One example was a young woman who talked about how she used magazines when she was growing up and how they taught her masses to do with Fashion and interior. The importance of understanding your consumer is massive and is the only reason all fashion brands are successful.. if they weren’t able to produce the rights for their customers they would just go else where. 143


CREATIVE CV 144


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BOOKS

EDITORIAL DESIGN

Cath Caldwell & Yolanda Zappaterra (2014). Editorial Design . Unknown: Laurence King. all.

FASHION MARKETING COMMUNICATION

Gaynor Lea-Greenwood (2012). Fashion Marketing Communications. Unknown: unknown. all.

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LIV HARROULD. 148

File It - Who's Who In Fashion  

A journal documentation highlighting a variety of key contributors in fashion.. Including - Social Influencers and existing Creative Directo...

File It - Who's Who In Fashion  

A journal documentation highlighting a variety of key contributors in fashion.. Including - Social Influencers and existing Creative Directo...

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