Liveaboards of Maldives Magazine

Š 2016 Liveaboards of Maldives.

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Liveaboards of Maldives designed and published by A.N+Associates Ma. Petral Iskandharu magu, Male’, Maldives www.anassociat.es

I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and the sky; And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by...

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THE ANNUAL PUBLICATION OF LIVEABOARD ASSOCIATION OF MALDIVES. DESIGNED AND DEVELOPED BY AN+ASSOCIATES. WWW.ANASSOCIAT.ES

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Dear Readers,

Greetings from the Liveaboard Association of Maldives and Welcome Aboard the "Liveaboards of Maldives" 2016 edition.

As part of the liveaboard industry's ongoing efforts for sustainable development of tourism sector of Maldives, we have put our maximum effort in the past years to overcome issues of a safe harbour, incentives and awareness on insurance, trainings and promotion of leisure boating industry.

Some of our major initiatives and collaboration with Insurance companies, not only help to protect the tourists, but the crew member and the vessel while saving on overheads being a member of LAM and working together on development as a team. The affiliated training Programmes with partners have enhanced the human resources with the latest hospitality and safety awareness incorporated with it allowing new opportunities for locals to join the industry.

The liveaboard sector is leading the way in promoting the brands in the world’s most growing nations where major tourism fairs happen. We have partnered with major exhibitions promoting marine tourism to promote the destination and the boating sector, which again allows great benefits to our members.

Our countless other initiatives are placing tourism safe while we engage with safety awareness campaigns both for responsible boating and making everyone #staysafeafloat as the forefront of the industry.

With nearly 800,000 arrivals till September, more will be done together with the government and relevant authorities to promote the destination.

This new edition of "Liveaboards of Maldives" not only provides information of boats ranging from basics to utmost luxury, but also includes information of cruising industry with expert knowledge and their experience. Our objective in making this medium to engage with passionate boating industry fans have been successful with clear presentation of the industry for over 6 years. We continue with the aim of delivering a fruitful platform for tourists and the industry making "Liveaboard of Maldives" as the partner of a great industry.

Hassan Haleem, P R E S I D E N T Liveaboard Association of Maldives

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Editor’s note:

Dear reader, Welcome to the 2016 edition of Liveaboards of Maldives magazine, a publication that aims to bring you everything you might need to know when planning a boat holiday in our island nation. Whether you’re dreaming of your first visit or returning for the tenth time, we’re confident that these pages can offer something new for you to learn and enjoy.

We’re confident because we understand the reason visitors from all over the world return year upon year to board the country’s impressive fleet of safari vessels. We understand why the liveaboard sector is a multimillion-dollar industry that continues to grow year on year. We understand the source of its appeal. So what is it? Well, it all comes down to something so intangible that it’s best described in a riddle: What’s invisible but instantly recognizable? What’s felt but never seen? Once experienced, what drives people to search for it around the world? Any ideas? Some might venture to say ‘love’. And yes, maybe that’s a part of it too but at its base, what drives guests to return to these waters is something at the foundation of human experience. Something primal and ancient.

Adrenaline. Yes, that rush of energy born of fear or anticipation that so many millennia ago triggered our ancestors to either fight or flee. That sudden release of chemicals in the face of something daunting or dangerous. For the most part of our everyday lives, trudging along in supermarkets and office spaces, we no longer need this internal warning system. We can go months without feeling that sudden quickening of our heartbeats.

And yet, we crave it because it makes us feel alive. Any serious surfer or scuba diver can tell you that the minute that huge wave forms in the distance or the moment a shark emerges from the deep, that’s the moment they live for, and what keeps them coming back for more.

That’s why this year, we have dedicated this issue to the pursuit of adrenaline; to all things that get your heart beating that bit harder, your blood coursing that bit faster and endorphins flowing that bit stronger. Our travelogues, guides and stories have at their heart a search for that addictive rush. As a result, you’ll find stories of adventure, exploration and new experiences. Of high-energy night and wreck diving, of intense big game fishing and pushing your surf skills to the next level. And of course, alongside these pieces we’ve got everything you need to know about a country so full of surprises.

So for those looking for their next adrenaline fix, a liveaboard might be just the place to start. There’s nothing quite like weighing anchor and setting sail for a week on the ocean. And even the most seasoned sailor will tell you, there’s no knowing what tomorrow might bring at sea, but you can enjoy the thrill of the ride.

Adèle Verdier-Ali, E D I T O R ad el e@l i ttleb irdjournal. com

Liveaboards of Maldives

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kerstin Pilz Ali Miuraj CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Mohamed ‘Sindi’ Seeneen Ali Miuraj Kerstin Pilz Shaahina Ali Ahmed Nasru DESIGN & ART DIRECTION

Mohamed Azlif

MARKETING

Shafa Ahmed Faiz Ahmed Shakir SPECIAL THANKS

Mhamed Hamza Ahmed Aznil Tim Southall Mohamed Iqbal COVER IMAGE

Photo: Ismail Niyaz Art Direction: Mohamed Azlif PRINTING PARTNER

M7 Print

CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER

Ismail Niyaz

www.liveaboards.mv

LIVEABOARDS of MALDIVES

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Contents

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12

34

Liveaboard Association News

A Day in the Life of a Surf Guide

As always, this year has been a busy one for the Association.

A photo essay by local surf guide and photographer Mohamed ‘Bongo’ Hamza capturing a day on the ocean.

18

40

58 Sunken Treasure With the wreck of the MV Victory out of action for the foreseeable future, here’s our guide to the best of the rest.

64

Beyond the Beach

A Family Affair

About Town

The Maldives is more than just its beaches. Scratch the surface and you’ll find a country rich in culture and history.

Kerstin Pilz meets Fayyaz Ibrahim and learns that his passion for the ocean has been passed down over several generations.

What to do, see and eat whilst spending a day in the capital.

22

44

70

Into the Night

Catch of the Day

Speak Easy

Adele Verdier-Ali revisits the first time she experienced the Maldives’ waters at night.

Local artist Nadheefa Mohamed(n.r) presents just a small selection of species likely to end up on your line if you cast it in Maldivian waters.

This handy guide to local liveaboard terms and phrases will make you feel part of the crew in no time!

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46

10 Top Tips for Tip Top Gear!

The Authentic Heart of the Maldives

We speak to PADI IDC Staff Instructor and certified Scubapro Technician Ali Miuraj about ensuring your gear is always in tip top shape.

Kerstin Pilz sets off to the far flung islands during the country’s most important celebration in search of the real Maldives.

28 How to Improve your Surf Skills in the Maldives Improving your surf skills in the Maldives.

52 Shaahina Ali: A Liveaboard Legend We catch up with Shaahina Ali, a pioneer of the dive and liveaboard industry.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

74 Maldives at a Glance The vital statistics of a truly unique nation.

78 Boat Listing Detailed list of some of the best liveaboards in the Maldives.

News

LAM at a Glance: As always, this year has been a busy one for the Association.

Our elected board continues to work hard to ensure that the collective voice of all our members is heard at industry, governmental and legislative levels. We remain committed to widening the scope of the association and to collaborating with stakeholders across the tourism sector to achieve growing visibility in the global travel industry.

Here are just some of the highlights of the Association’s achievements this year.

Forum with marine industry experts.

LAM conducted a forum with marine industry experts and relevant authorities to discuss current issues in the industry and find solutions.

Appointment of Tourist Police as an Associate Member.

LAM appointed the Tourist Police as an associate partner and assure to work closely in finding solutions for the industry by working together.

LAM Participates in Business Council Meetings

LAM continues to participate in business council meetings to share the voice of the industry and provide technical opinions related to liveaboard operations.

Appointment of Mega Maldives as an Associate Member

LAM continues to participate in business council meetings to share the voice of the industry and provide technical opinions related to liveaboard operations.

Appointment of Allied Insurance Company as an Associate Member

LAM appointed Allied Insurance Company of Maldives as an Associate Member to work closely with them in the future to create tailor-made insurance offers. Allied has introduced a special insurance package for LAM members upon request from LAM’s management.

LAM meets with Heli Maldives

LAM’s management met with Heli Maldives to cooperate with them in finding solutions to emergencies and rescue operations for liveaboards in the Maldivian industry.

LAM meets with the Minister of Tourism

LAM has met with the new Ministry of Tourism Hon. Moosa Zameer and requested to work closely with the Ministry in order to find solutions for the various concerns of the industry. The Hon. Minister has assured his support and ensured that LAM’s requests will be addressed. He has also given a seat for LAM in the Tourism Promotion Advisory Committee.

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LAM welcomes youth internship

LAM assured employment on liveaboards on an intern basis for young people who complete Liveaboard Crew Training Programmes conducted by the Maritime Academy of Maldives.

LAM annual promotional publication

LAM continues to develop the annual promotional publication Liveaboards of Maldives which provides comprehensive information about liveaboards, attractions and relevant services ino the industry. The publication is developed by A.N+Associates for LAM..

Maldives Marine Expo

The marine industry signature annual event Maldives Marine Expo is the official event of LAM portraying the extensive services and products available in the Maldives for the marine industry. The event is organized by Blak Pvt Ltd for LAM

Collaboration with other NGOs

LAM along with MATATO, DAM, ATA, and Guesthouses of Maldives decided to work together and collaborate on the promotion of the tourism industry. As this is our first collaborative work, an independent management company will be chosen to manage the participation in potential international travel fairs.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

L.A.M Management 2016

HASSAN HALEEM President

SHAUSHAN SHAFEEQ

AHMED AFRAH

MOHAMED IGNAAZ ALI

Vice President

Treasurer

Secretary General

ISMAIL HAMEEDH

AHMED ZUBAIR ADAM

AHMED IBRAHIM

Executive Board Member

Executive Board Member

Executive Board Member

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IBRAHIM SHAHID Executive Board Member

IBRAHIM NASIR

MOOSA RASHEEDH

Executive Board Member

Executive Board Member

SHAMMOON SHAREEF Executive Board Member HAWWA NAFEELA Executive Board Member FAYYAZ ISMAIL Legal Counsellor

AHMED VISHAM Executive Board Member

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Liveaboard Association of Maldives

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Fuel Supplies Maldives Pvt Ltd STO Aifaanu Building, 4th Floor, Block –A, P.O Box 20026,Boduthakurufaanu Magu, Male’, Maldives Tel: +(960) 333-6655 Fax: +(960) 331-3881 E-Mail : sales@fuelmaldives.net

Tradition

Beyond the Beach WORDS ADÈLE VERDIER-ALI

The Maldives is a country known globally as one of the most enticing beach destinations on the planet but scratch the surface and you’ll find a country rich in culture and history.

The Maldives. The mere mention of the country evokes in the mind of a traveller a place akin to paradise; endless oceans of turquoise and blue occasionally interrupted by strips of coconut tree clad land, wheaten sands that dissolve into lagoons brimming with life and bounty. For many it is the ultimate bucket list getaway, the dream vacation spot – a place where life begins and ends at the beach. And rightly so. After all, has the country not carved itself a place within the global travel industry as one of the most definitive honeymoon destinations on Earth?

Geography & Wildlife The Maldivian islands are the remnants of prehistoric volcanoes that rose from the ocean floor. Coral reefs began to form around their summits and since the volcanoes sank back into the abyss millions of years ago, the resulting coral atolls have been all that remains of them. Islands formed at sea level and the country was born in the Laccadive Sea. The number of islands is stated as 1,192 to be precise (although some argue that this number changes with the tide) and the barrier reefs that surround each one are swarming with life.

Globally, coral reefs take up only 0.1% of the ocean’s surface area and yet are home to 25% of its inhabitants. Due to this, the Maldives has been attracting marine biologists, geologists and naturalists for decades. The UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in Baa Atoll for example is crowned by the famous Hanifaru Bay, where mantas congregate in their hundreds. The vast South Ari Marine Protected Area (in Ari Atoll) is also home to some of the largest numbers of mantas and whale sharks in the world.

Yet despite being built of little more than sand and water, the country is home to a rich history and culture that spans back thousands of years.

Many happily while away a fortnight under a palm tree here but if you were tempted to put down your book and explore beyond the beach, you might just be surprised by what you found.

Go beyond the travel brochure pictures of endless beaches, and you’ll find a nation that has thrived for millennia. In this remote, oceanic location, the Maldives has seen sultanates rise and fall, religions come and go, and outsiders invade and flee. Throughout its long history, the Maldives has not only survived against the odds.

It has flourished against them.

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Settlement & Religion

Politics & Sovereignty

Scattered like crumbs across the Indian Ocean, these islands account for only the smallest fraction of the country. 99% of the territory is sea. Yet the 200 or so islands that are now inhabited have a colourful past. Whilst evidence is scarce, some historians believe that civilisation has existed here for at least two thousand years. Consensus is that most of the earliest settlers were Dravidian people from Tamil Nadu, in Southern India with many Sinhala emigrants arriving later. As written history only dates back to the twelfth century, much of the country’s earlier history is mingled with folklore, mythology and legend.

What can be gathered is that the earliest settlers were Hindu before it became predominantly Buddhist for at least 800 years before the conversion to Islam in 1153.

During most of its long history, the Maldives has remained sovereign. However, for a brief 15 years in the sixteenth century, the country endured an enforced Portuguese rule, consequence of an invasion in 1558. These cruel colonisers were driven out by Maldivian legend Mohammed Thakarufaanu and his compatriots. However, under threat of being re-colonised, the Maldives sought protection from the Dutch in Ceylon. In 1887, after the British had in turn expelled the Dutch, a treaty was signed and the Maldives became a British protectorate. In 1932 the Maldives proclaimed its first written constitution and for the first time the sultanate became an elected position.

In 1953, after a public referendum, the sultanate was abolished and Mohamed Amin Didi became the first president of the Maldives.

However, this was short-lived and the country soon went back to becoming a sultanate. In 1965 the Maldives ended its protectorate with the British and became a republic. After three turbulent years, a public referendum resulted in the country being ruled once again by a president, Ibrahim Nasir.

Whilst Buddhist, the country was ruled over by a monarchy, but changed in title to a Sultanate with the nation’s countrywide conversion to Islam. There is some dispute as to how and why the Maldives converted from Buddhism to Islam but most Maldivians credit an Arab traveller named Abu Barakaat Yusuf Al Barbaree with bringing the religion to the country.

Modern scholars posit that the conversion made economic sense with the growing influence of the Arab world in the Indian Ocean at that time. However, for centuries the story has been linked to Barakaat’s legendary taming of a virgin-munching sea demon by reciting the Holy Quran.

Traces of the country’s complicated religious past can still be observed in parts of the country. On a few of the smaller local islands, you can still find ancient limestone mosques, carved with intricate patterns sitting close to ancient Buddhist archaeological sites. If you manage to spend a day in the capital, the Hukuru Miskiiy (Friday Mosque) and National Museum are well worth a visit for those who want to delve into the country’s past.

People & Language Today, the Maldivian population is approximately 350,000 people, making it the smallest Asian country in terms of people as well as landmass. Despite the relatively tiny number of citizens, even a layman can recognise the vast genetic variety amongst Maldivians.

Having in days gone by been at the centre of an ancient trade route, sailors and visitors from all edges of the Indian Ocean have spent time here. South India and Sri Lanka have been undoubtedly the biggest influence on the Maldives but Persia, Somalia, Malaysia and North Africa have all left traces, both on the language and the genome.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Nowadays, the official language is called Dhivehi, which while displaying Sanskrit roots, is most closely tied with an ancient form of Sinhala called Elu. The script used in the country is in its third manifestation and is known as Thaana and is written from right to left. If you want to try your hand at the language, take a look at our guide to useful words and phrases on page 72.

The way of life in the local islands has changed little over the centuries. Island life is quiet and communities are tight-knit. Thanks in large part to the bountiful sea, people have always lived well. The people’s resourceful nature meant that the ‘Dhivehin’ people established their own strand of herbal medicine, known locally as Dhivehi beys. It is still practised throughout the islands, often alongside a form of spiritual healing known as fandhita, to treat all kinds of ailments.

The Maldives has seen sultanates rise and fall, religions come and go, and outsiders invade and flee. Throughout its long history, the Maldives has not only survived against the odds.

It has flourished against them.

Scattered like crumbs across the Indian Ocean, these islands account for only the smallest fraction of the country. 99% of the territory is sea. Yet the 200 or so islands that are now inhabited have a colourful past.

Music & Culture In recent years there has been a widespread resurgence of folk music and performing arts in the Maldives. A dying art form twenty years ago, Maldivian drumming known as bodu beru (literally meaning big drums) has seen a huge revival recently. Drumming is normally performed in large groups and accompanying boys dance in an almost trance-like state to its rhythm. The bandiya dance, performed by women swaying rhythmically whilst holding traditional, metal water containers is also very special and reveals the cultural influence of Indian dancing. This particular dance, as well as the stick dance dhandi jehun, can often be witnessed during local festivities.

As well as in performance, the Maldivian talents can be seen in their woodwork. Beautifully handcrafted dhonis (Maldivian boats) and manta rays can be found in the souvenir shops. The most exquisite woodwork however, comes in the form of brightly coloured lacquer boxes, known as malaafaiy.

Stunning bright red, yellow and black designs are the most traditional and were once crafted to hold celebration food (the name itself means feast). In a similar colour theme are the traditional women’s dresses here called Dhivehi libaas. The dress is a fitted long tunic with an incredibly intricate embroidered neckline and is often worn over a striped skirt, called a kandiki. Many of the older island women can still be seen wearing this style of dress on a daily basis as they sweep the sandy streets in front of their homes.

Food

Sports & Leisure

In a country where land makes up only 1% of the territory, one might not have high expectations for locally grown produce.

Despite the scarcity of land, the country manages to produce tropical fruit in abundance.

Papaya, passion fruit, watermelon are all found here. Coconuts are in excess and provide nutritious water, bursting with electrolytes. Incredible squashes of all shapes and sizes grow all year round. And then there is the fish! Tuna, wahoo, snapper – the sea is swarming with it!

Visitors can indulge in the typical Maldivian breakfast of mashuni, made from coconut and tuna or treat themselves to a variety of afternoon snacks – fried fish balls called gulhaa or samosa-like bajiya, if they fancy sampling an authentic local dish. For their main meals, Maldivian tend to eat some form of curry accompanied with either rice or roshi – a form of very thin chapatti. With the advent of the tourism industry and the development of so many five-star resorts, the country has attracted top chefs from all over the world who serve up haute cuisine on a daily basis.

Maldivians enjoy a number of pastimes. On the local islands and along the packed streets in Male’, you’ll often find groups of men huddled over a game of cards or chess. Carrom is popular and the familiar clack of the chalked pieces striking the board can be heard all over the country. Young Maldivian men are extremely enthusiastic about football and most follow European leagues alongside playing it themselves. Cricket is popular as well, especially among the migrant workers. Elsewhere women enjoy a fast-paced game known as bashi, which involves hitting tennis balls over your head at high speed until the opposing team catches one and eliminates you. A more reserved game known as ohvalhugondi is often played by the islanders to while away the fasting hours during the month of Ramadan. But of course, the sea is the most popular source of entertainment and every Friday boatloads of locals can be seen heading to the reef for a few hours’ fishing and relaxation. Snorkelling too is popular, especially if they manage to catch an octopus or two! Surfing and body boarding is increasing in popularity nowadays due in part to a number of world class Maldivian surfers and body boarders raising the profile of the sport.

Timeline:

PHOTO: MOHAMED MUHA

1153 Conversion to Islam 1573 M o h a m e d Th a k a r u f a a n u l i b e r a t e s t h e M a l d i v e s f r o m P o r t u g u e s e o c c u p a t i o n 18 8 7 Maldives becomes a British protectorate 1932 M a l d i v e s w r i t e s i t s fi r s t c o n s t i t u t i o n 1953 M o h a m e d A m i n D i d i b e c o m e s t h e fi r s t p r e s i d e n t o f t h e M a l d i v e s 1965 Maldives becomes an independent nation 1968 Ibrahim Nasir becomes the second president of the Maldives 1978 Maumoon Abdul Gayoom elected as the third president of the Maldives 2008 M o h a m e d N a s h e e d w i n s t h e fi r s t d e m o c r a t i c e l e c t i o n

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Night Dive

Into the Night WORDS ADÈLE VERDIER-ALI

Night diving is one of the most exciting elements of any liveaboard trip. Adele Verdier-Ali revisits the first time she experienced the Maldives’ waters at night.

The water is still surprisingly warm. As we descend, I shine my torch on my computer and see that it’s still 28 C. My fear dissolves like sugar and gives way to excitement. The beams of light ahead of me intersect, and I’m reminded of so many predictable action movies where the hero has to surreptitiously approach an enemy hideout under the cover of darkness. Usually through some shady, shark-infested backwater or (if they are unlucky) through a sewer.

As I edge my fins over the starboard side of the dive dhoni, I look to the horizon as I always do for a giant stride entry. I feel the familiar rush of adrenaline flood my veins as I occupy this fleeting, liminal space. I stand on the brink between worlds, on the precipice between the creaky safety of the boat and the watery oblivion below. Balanced here for a few seconds, feeling the weight of my gear, it is as though the waves below me slow down and the ocean holds her breath, waiting for me. I know this place; it is where a dive begins.

Tonight, the water is inviting and unsurprisingly sewage-free. But it is shark-infested. Our spot is Dhigurah Arches in South Ari Atoll, a favourite stop-off on many a liveaboard itinerary. Earlier in the day, it had also been the site of our morning dive and we’d spotted both white and black tip reef sharks. Harmless of course but thrilling nonetheless. A large manta ray had glided past us and fish had swarmed like locusts. We’d even sighted two of my favourite aquatic creatures, the mantis shrimp. It proved a beautiful spot and I was eager to see what its inhabitants got up to at night.

But this time it’s different. The horizon I’m used to slices through turquoise water and cornflower blue skies. Now the boundary is less defined. This time, inky navy and mottled grey bleed together and across them spills a fleshy, burnished apricot. The sun has just set and darkness is fast approaching. And herein is the fundamental difference; I’ve never dived at night before. Hesitation begins to raise its head and vines of fear begin to creep subtle paths along my limbs. I know it’s time. I raise my hand to my mask and reg, look again to the bleeding sky, and jump.

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As we drift alongside the sloping drop-off at about 15 metres in a slow current, I immediately notice how animated the reef is at night. The coral, so seemingly lifeless during the day, so outwardly rocklike, is in bloom.

Polyp tentacles extend from within the coral branches, sifting the water to catch passing zooplankton and other microscopic critters.

The circles of spidery antennae remind me of a garden in springtime, suddenly bursting forth with blossom after a long winter. Under the torchlight the true colours of the reef can be observed, and it’s beautiful.

And all the while a vast expanse of darkness stretches out to my right. Not fear-inducing exactly, but a little unnerving. I am constantly aware of it as I examine the reef, like a vast, shapeless spectre tapping on my shoulder.

Once or twice I flash my torch into the blackness, but see nothing.

Then, after 45 minutes as we begin to ascend, I see something in the near distance. Just a faint light at first, but distinct and undeniable. Flecks of light throb as they approach and suddenly shapes emerge. Two squid pulse by, emitting electric blue bioluminescence and just for a moment they are like two fairies in a glade.

They dart away, vanish.

Other creatures are active too. We spot three Spanish dancer nudibranchs feeding on sponges, as well as a sizeable hermit crab atop a large table coral, feasting on plankton. A hunting octopus slithers through my torchlight and turns immediately from dappled orange-red to greyish white. There is a palpable energy on the reef that’s somehow different than during the day. There is purpose.

We continue to ascend, raising our torches to the surface to signal our location to the awaiting dhoni. At our safety stop, my guide places his torch against his chest and he briefly disappears. In the half-light of the torches around him, I see the slow beats of his arms, deliberate and repetitive. And then they appear; flurries of tiny fireflies swarm in the maelstroms. Others join him and we marvel at the beauty of the phytoplankton and their miraculous circus of light. It is otherworldly, and feels somehow holy, like a blessing.

Yet whilst many nocturnal residents are prowling the corals for their dinner, others follow a more human rhythm. I spy bucktoothed parrotfish and spotted puffer fish nestled in the grottos and hollows of the reef and I realise that this is the first time I have ever seen a fish asleep. It is surprisingly sweet.

We surface to a scene no less magical. Night has completely fallen and the fading sunset has been replaced with uncountable stars. Away from any light pollution, they appear so thick that it’s hard to distinguish them. I float for a while as the others begin to board the boat, in awe of the cosmos.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Night Dive

1 Maaya Thila 4km north we s t of M a a y a fus hi, North A ri Atoll 6 m -3 0m

80 metres in diameter and with top reef beginning at six metres, Maaya Thila is a well known dive spot on the liveaboard route. The spot has been described as ‘the white-tip capital’ of the country and on a night dive dozens of these slender sharks can spotted hunting around the thila. With so many boats choosing to dive here at night for a chance to witness this incredible show, the sharks and other large hunters such as jackfish and barracudas have become used to the lights and use them to their advantage when chasing the fusiliers. A high adrenaline dive!

Top

5

Night Diving Spots

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2

3

Milaidhoo Wall

Dhigurah Arches

Nort h side of Milaidhoo Island, B aa Atoll

We s t of D higura h, ins ide D higura hs hu Ka ndu, S outh A ri Atoll

5 m - 2 5m

5 m -25 m

This dive spot is found on the north side reef of Milaidhoo Island. Top reef starts at a depth of 5 metres and falls steeply away like a wall.

Huge overhangs and swim-throughs begin at 12 metres and continue until around 25 metres. The ceilings of these overhangs are covered with orange and yellow soft corals.

During a night dive, divers can enjoy the incredible colours of these corals and spot many critters and nudibranchs along the wall. There’s also a chance to see sting or eagle rays here as well as a wide variety of fish life.

Located on the house reef of Dhigurah island, this dive covers about 300 metres of reef edge to the west of the island. The name of this site comes from the interesting formation of the reef, with several small inlets occurring across the reef. There are also a few small caves with seafans and healthy coral growth. During the south-west monsoon (May-November) mantas and whale sharks frequent this reef and can even be spotted at night. A relaxing night dive with plenty to see!

4

5

Vilivaru Giri

Kuda Giri Wreck

2k m west of Guraidhoo, S ou t h Male’ Atoll

S outh M a le ’ Atoll, be twe e n M a a fus hi a nd D higufinolhu

1.5 m – 30m

1 8 -3 5 m

A shallow patch of coral inside the atoll, at night divers at Villivaru Giri can enjoy watching the plentiful coral polyps feeding on passing plankton. The site has many holes, crevices and overhangs where critters of all kinds can be effortlessly spotted. Also flatworms and lion fishes become less shy in the dark and it is easier to see them there at night than during daytime. Bigger marine animals such as turtles, morays and stingrays are also common here.

To the west of Dhigufinolhu island lies a small, submerged giri. On its south-west side lies a wreck of a steel fishing trawler, which has been lying on the sandy bottom at 35m for more than a decade. The vessel lies upright with its bow pointing towards the reef at about 18m. The deck slopes down towards the stern, which is at about 30m. The wreck is extremely popular and often dived at night. Both soft and hard corals adorn the outside of the vessel, and divers can find a resident school of batfish, glassfish, wrasses and jackfish.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Gear

10 Top Tips for Tip Top Gear!

WORDS ALI MIURAJ

We speak to PADI IDC Staff Instructor and certified Scubapro Technician Ali Miuraj about ensuring your gear is always in tip top shape.

Let’s face it; dive gear is not cheap. Investing in good quality equipment can take a serious chunk out of your pay packet and any diver will want to make sure his kit lasts for as long as possible. The good news is that with proper care and attention, good quality dive gear can last for many years and is one of the best ways of ensuring your safety when you’re in the water. Of course, most divers are aware that they should rinse their gear thoroughly with fresh water after every dive, keep it out of direct sunlight and store it in a cool place. But what else can be done? Well, here are a few extra tips to get you well on your way to establishing great maintenance habits.

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Store your mask away from your wetsuit!

Don’t throw those fin inserts away!

Storing your mask bundled up with your wetsuit may lead to discoloration, as the neoprene can leach into the silicone seal and discolour it. Although this won’t harm your mask functionally, it will make it look less attractive. Also, when storing your gear away for a long period of time, make sure not to leave it in a garage or outhouse that might be home to bugs. Cockroaches love to eat silicone, so make sure not to throw your mask box and and keep it tightly sealed during periods of non-usage.

It might be a bit of a pain replacing the plastic inserts into the boots of your fins after a day’s diving, but it’s well worth holding on to them.

They’ll ensure the rubber doesn’t bend out of shape during storage and keep you from getting blisters. But if you find that your fins have become deformed, place them in direct sunlight for a while, insert the protector and let them cool in the desired shape. The rest of the time, make sure they stay out of the sun.

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3

Spend time with your regulator!

Buying a good regulator can be a bit of an investment and it’s worth giving it some TLC to ensure it stays in great condition. At each step of your diving day, pay attention to your reg. When you’ve assembled your gear before a dive, ensure that the set up is secured. If your tank falls over onto your reg, it could break.

When you’re diving, keep all hoses secured to your BCD to avoid scratches from the reef.

When diving is over for the day, rinse the second stages with warm soapy water to clean it. And before storing your regulator for longer periods of time, remove the diaphragm and clean thoroughly to avoid any mould growth.

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Avoid the three Ss – Salt, Sand and Sun! Whilst these three components make for a great holiday, they can seriously reduce the life expectancy of your gear. Avoid placing your gear on the beach if possible and if your equipment does get sandy, try using a soft bristle toothbrush to remove the grains. Rinse all your gear in fresh water after every dive and remember to empty salt water from your BCD between dives. Let fresh water run through all dump valves including the deflator hose. When rinsed, hang your BCD to dry half inflated to avoid a sticky blade. And don’t neglect your surface marker balloon! Similarly, rinse the balloon thoroughly and dry it inflated. And of course, avoid drying any of your gear in the sun - it can fade the high-viz colour of your SMB and deform rubber and plastic.

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Keep a plastic bag handy for slipping into your wetsuit!

We’ve all been there – wrestling to get our arms and legs into unforgiving wetsuits. One useful way of gliding effortlessly into your suit is to use a humble plastic bag. If your sleeves are tight, place the plastic bag over your hand before getting dressed, and you’ll find that your arm slips through the sleeve much easier.

The same can be repeated with your feet. This way, you’ll avoid a lot of frustration and the chance of ripping your wetsuit. And when you’re done diving for the day, rinse your wetsuit thoroughly and dry it inside out on a proper wetsuit hanger to avoid disfiguring the shoulders. And if you haven’t used the suit in a while, use a proper wetsuit soap to freshen it up and every so often wax the zip to ensure it doesn’t become galvanised.

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Test your housing!

It might be tempting to take your camera on your first dive of the holiday – especially here in the Maldives where every dive is different – but I would suggest taking just your housing the first time you jump. Housing that hasn’t been used in a while should be tested and if you’re doing a shallow check dive, it’s a great opportunity to ensure that your camera won’t get flooded at a later stage.

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A few tools can go a long way!

With so much gear, it’s worth investing in a few simple tools to keep them in great shape.

Consider purchasing a few basic tools, such as wrenches, silicone grease, Allen keys and a small screwdriver. If you use a Scubapro regulator, you might want to buy a Scubapro Universal Tool. Many retailers sell pre-packaged maintenance kits so ask your local retailer for advice.

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8

Press your buttons!

Get certified!

This is a very small point but something most divers forget to do. When rinsing your dive computer, submerge it in fresh water and press all the buttons. This ensures that even the slightest salt residue is dissolved and guards against any possible build-up. Repeat this when rinsing your dive torch by pressing the power button if it has one, and your camera housing as well.

If you’re interested in learning more about ways to maintain your gear in great condition, you might want to consider signing up for the PADI Equipment Specialist Course. You’ll learn about routine care and maintenance procedures and storage best practices. Your instructor will show you how to overcome some common equipment problems and offer equipment configuration suggestions.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Don’t forget to service your gear!

Some of the gear you buy might need servicing at regular intervals. This will change depending on the equipment and it’s best to check the manufacturer’s recommendations for this.

A good rule of thumb for regulators is a complete disassemble, clean, polish and lubricate for every hundred dives. For other pieces of kit, an annual service should suffice.

Surf

How to Improve Your Surf Skills in the Maldives WORDS ADÈLE VERDIER-ALI

Looking to up your game on your next surfing getaway? A liveaboard cruise in the Maldives might be just what you’re after…

PHOTO: AHMED NASRU

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LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Over the past few years, the Maldivian tourism industry has seen a steady increase in the number of surfers arriving in the country looking to ride some of Asia’s most pristine waves.

Although most famously associated with scuba diving, the Maldives has recently established a reputation for being one of the world’s hottest surfing holiday destinations. With reef breaks throughout the archipelago offering consistent waves at a variety of difficulties, the Maldives is a great choice for surfers of all abilities. And for those hoping to improve their skills during their vacation, a liveaboard cruise offers all the components needed to make sure visitors go home not only relaxed, stoked and satisfied, but also as better surfers.

There are waves for all levels Although logic dictates that most visitors who sign up for a surf trip on a liveaboard are already experienced surfers, many also arrive with little knowledge of the sport.

Whether you’re an experienced big wave rider or you’re a newbie travelling with your local surf school, there are waves to suit all abilities. In North Male’ Atoll, Sultans, Ninjas and Tombstones are all great breaks for beginners and intermediate surfers. For more experienced surfers, Jails, Chickens and Pasta Point (also all in North Male’ Atoll) are fantastic spots. Advanced surfers can head further south to Ying Yang in Laamu Atoll, Kudahuvadhoo in Dhaalu Atoll or Beacons and Five Island in Gaaf Dhaal. Of course, these are just a handful of the great breaks on offer and your surf guide will be able to direct you to where he thinks the swell is most appropriate for your ability.

Surfing reef breaks expands your wave knowledge Many of the surfers that join liveaboard cruises in the Maldives arrive from countries that offer only beach breaks. By learning to surf reef breaks, you can expand your wave repertoire and push yourself out of your comfort zone. By doing so, you can learn to become more adaptable in the water and more flexible to your conditions. This in turn will increase your confidence levels and make you a strong all-round surfer.

Consistency, consistency, consistency,

If a wave’s not working for you, you can take off

If Maldivian waves are known for anything, they’re known for their consistency. Of course, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that if you’re going to get better at something, then you’re going to have to do it a lot. Outside of vacation time, most surfers are lucky to get in the water every weekend during the summer months. So for those looking to surf as much as they can during their holiday, the Maldives is a great choice. The consistency of the waves mean that you can be in the water for anything up to six hours a day! And you know what they say: practice makes perfect!

This is the true beauty of surfing on a liveaboard trip. If your group isn’t really feeling a certain break, you can simply weigh anchor and find somewhere else. There’s so much mobility with a cruise that you’ll definitely find the kind of break to ensure you get the most out of your trip…

And speaking of perfect…

Not only are the waves in the Maldives consistent, they’re very often typically longer, cleaner and more predictable than those in most other surf destinations. When the swell is just right – they’re nigh on perfect! The longer ride in gives surfers more time to really work on their maneuvers and the space to practice everything from turns to getting barreled.

You can experience crowds and the isolation One of the toughest things to get a hang of when learning to surf is knowing how to surf a busy break. You can never be sure of what the next guy is thinking and it takes time to be able to read the crowd. The Maldives offers two solutions to this issue. You can either surf some of the busier breaks in North Male’ Atoll to get used to mastering crowd control or you can head to the central and southern atolls where you’ll find beautiful waves that are completely deserted.

There’s always a good wave to be found ...And because of the geography of the country – a long, thin strip of islands in the middle of the Indian Ocean – from approximately April to November, there’s always a good wave to be found along the east coast of the atolls, while from November through to March the south and west coast of the southern atolls are in their prime.

An active holiday means increased fitness levels When you’re not surfing, there are plenty of activities to take part in on a liveaboard. Whether it’s snorkeling with whale sharks or freediving with manta rays, you’ll likely be spending hours in the water even when you’re off your board.

If you’re a city dweller, it’s a chance to be active throughout the day, away from your office, computer and daily commute. You’ll soon see your fitness and energy levels soar and this will have an impact on your overall surfing abilities. And when you’re not in the water, why not practice your yoga asanas on the sundeck?

Improved breathing techniques will ensure you’re better prepared for a wipeout or two!

Great Breaks for All Levels Here’s our pick of the best reefs for all abilities. These breaks can vary in ability level depending on conditions, so always check with your surf guide.

Beginner

Intermediate

Advanced

NORTH MALE’ ATOLL

NORTH MALE’ ATOLL

GAAF DHAAL ATOLL

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NINJAS

LOHIS

BEACONS

SWELL SIZE: 1-5 | TYPE: RIGHT

SWELL SIZE: 2-10+ | TYPE: LEFT

SWELL SIZE: 2-10+ | TYPE: LEFT

NORTH MALE’ ATOLL

NORTH MALE’ ATOLL

GAAF DHAAL ATOLL

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S U LT A N S

PA S TA P O I N T

FIVE ISLANDS

SWELL SIZE: 2-15 | TYPE: RIGHT

SWELL SIZE: 3-10+ | TYPE: LEFT

SWELL SIZE: 6-10 | TYPE: RIGHT

NORTH MALE’ ATOLL

SOUTH MALE’ ATOLL

SOUTH MALE’ ATOLL

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TOMBSTONES

KANDOOMA LEFT

Y I N G YA N G

SWELL SIZE: 8 -10 | TYPE: RIGHT

SWELL SIZE: 2-10

SWELL SIZE: 2-12

GAAF DHAAL ATOLL

GAAF DHAAL ATOLL

GAAF DHAAL ATOLL

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| TYPE: LEFT

| TYPE: RIGHT

AIRPORTS THINADHOO

BLUE BOWLS

CHICKENS

SWELL SIZE: 2-10 | TYPE: LEFT & RIGHT

SWELL SIZE: 3-8 | TYPE: RIGHT

SWELL SIZE: 8-10+ | TYPE: LEFT

Photo Essay

A day in the Life of a Surf Guide PHOTO ESSAY MOHAMED HAMZA

In the Maldives, daily life is always connected to the ocean. For none more so than Mohamed ‘Bongo’ Hamza, a freelance surf and liveaboard guide who spends his days cruising on some of the country’s most established safari vessels.

When he’s not riding waves and advising his guests, he’s often found with his camera in hand, documenting the stunning scenery and wildlife he encounters on his travels. No two days on a liveaboard are ever quite the same, with the ocean bringing both blessings and danger with her changing moods. Here, Bongo shares a day in his life through his lens, revealing a country that never fails to surprise.

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Life at the surface

On a dhoni style boat trip, you can moor the boat right next to where the action is whether surfing, fishing or diving.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Photo Essay

Dive into another world

There’s never a dull moment underwater.

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Hidden wonders

A majestic manta ray comes to greet us underneath the waves.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Photo Essay

Feel the rush

The best thing about our waters is the clarity.

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Jo u r n e y t o t h e t r o p i c s

I constantly hear words such as “wow”, “its amazing”, “so beautiful” from the visitors to describe their experience.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Profile

A Family Affair WORDS KERSTIN PILZ

Kerstin Pilz meets Fayyaz Ibrahim and learns that his passion for the ocean has been passed down over several generations.

Fayyaz is standing at the bow of the wooden dhoni, his head shielded from the midday sun by an oval-shaped traditional Maldivian fisherman’s hat. “See that,” he says, pointing at a wedge of oil-smooth turquoise water amongst washing machine turbulence above the Marine Protected Area Banana Reef, one of the best dive spots in the North Male Atoll, “It’s too rough, we’ll have to go somewhere else.” He signals to the captain, who is steering the boat the traditional way by foot, to back away. I am disappointed but I know not to argue with a man who has diving in his DNA. It’s the knowledge of his forefathers combined with years of experience, he says, that allows him to read the currents like a surfer reads the waves.

As we putter along the south of North Male Atoll, some 40 minutes north of Villingili, in search of a calm spot for our afternoon dive, I learn that Banana Reef was the first reef to be discovered by recreational divers, due to its proximity to Hulhule airport island and the country’s first resorts. But the history of diving in the Maldives starts with Fayyaz’s father, Ibrahim Moosa, the country’s first professional diver.

When Fayyaz Ibrahim opened Divers Lodge Maldives in 2009 in Villingili, the quiet residential suburb island just across from buzzing busy Male’, with the help of his brother Yasir Ibrahim, also a dive instructor, he fulfilled a personal dream and ensured that the family tradition would be carried on. It took ten years from registration to opening what has become a busy dive hub that is popular with local professionals, expats, tourists and many of the country’s future dive masters who receive their training here. But Fayyaz is humble about his achievements. “The real story is my father’s,” he says. “I only carry on the family tradition.”

Ibrahim Moosa also knew the value of education and when Fayyaz was six years old he was sent to live in Male’ with an aunt who already had 12 children of her own. Lhaviyani, his home atoll, only had one motorized boat back then and was two days away by sailing dhoni, if the wind was good. “It was tough being away from home,” Fayyaz recalls. “I’d get a letter from my mother every two months.” But it was the only way to get a good education.

He taught the National Security services long before PADI arrived in the Maldives, Fayyaz tells me, and later went on to manage dive centres in resorts, including some of the country’s first such as Bandos Island Resort.

“I used to beg my father to take me diving,” Fayyaz recalls. “One day he asked me to carry a tank of gas to the beach.”

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It was a considerable job for the skinny 13 year old, as the dive centre filling station on Kuredu Island Resort and Spa in Lhaviyani Atoll, where his father worked at the time, was a long way from the beach. “As a reward I got to go on my first dive,” he says remembering his first dive in January 1981 as if it were yesterday.

Not long after, his father took him down to 15 metres on his first wreck dive. Fayyaz points to the busy shipping lane near Hulhule airport island, where the cargo ship MV Maldives Victory sank in February 1981, coming from Singapore heavy with provisions to supply the fledgling resort industry. “My father and his brother Yusuf did the first diving operation on the wreck,” he says, “salvaging liquor and other regulated stuff before it was opened to the public.” The shipwreck became an instant attraction with divers and turned Fayyaz’s curiosity for the underwater world into a life-long love affair.

But it took several years before Fayyaz decided to make diving into a full time profession.

Once he had finished school, he put his education to good use and instead of going underwater, he went straight into the foreign service. “At 19,” he recalls with a giggle. “I was accompanying ambassadors to resorts and for four months I stood in for the High Commissioner in Colombo.” He could have climbed the career ladder then, he says, but he felt a longing for home and applied for a job in the local fish factory in Lhavyani Atoll.

Being in charge of quality control and managing operations was a job he loved, but eventually the call of the sea caught up with him.

For the next decade and a half he worked in the safari boat industry, getting to know all facets of it, from managing operations for a safari boat building project, a partnership between a German man and his father, to skippering safari boats, guiding tourists on dive safaris as a dive instructor, to managing the full operation of the vessel. Silversands Travel recognized the potential in Fayyaz and appointed him as their marketing manager in Europe. “Our stall in Monaco was always busy,” Fayyaz says. “I don’t know why, I am not a trained marketing expert.” I am not surprised. In-depth knowledge and a deep passion for his product, the underwater world, would have to be the best assets of any salesman.

When asked to reveal his favorite dive sites, he laughs. “I always tell people that you can have your worst dive at the best dive site. It always depends on the conditions of the day.” He still enjoys diving Villingili house reef, he says, despite having seen it thousands of times and despite having witnessed its decline due to development.

Development and the effects of El Nino have certainly done their part to damage the reefs of the Maldives, he says. But development is necessary, it just needs to be managed properly. As an active member of LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

the Divers Association Maldives, a non-governmental association committed to the conservation and regulation of the local dive industry, he has participated in many initiatives to protect the reefs of the Maldives and he has represented DAM (Divers Association Maldives) on the technical committee of the Ministry for Tourism.

We’ve reached Bandos House Reef and Fayyaz reminds us that by staying buoyant, we will avoid damage. Nothing irritates him more, he says, than reckless divers who touch things and disturb the natural environment.

The biggest reward of his job is to see the expression on people’s faces when they come up from a dive and they really got what it’s all about, he says, as we get ready for our dive.

A few of weeks later, I finally get a chance to dive at Banana Reef when Fayyaz’s father, the white-haired, softly spoken pioneer of the Maldives’ dive industry, and other members of the family, all of whom experienced dive professionals, come to visit for a few days. Floating along the splendid banana-shaped reef, with its dramatic underwater cliffs and overhangs filled with brilliantly coloured soft coral, watching the elders of the country’s diving dynasty float like fish at perfect buoyancy is as mesmerizing as seeing blue stripped snapper, giant groupers and a huge school of bannerfish flutter in the current. I hope Fayyaz noticed the big smile on my face when we came up.

That day, I really got what diving is all about.

@N_R_ACHEY

ILLUSTRATION: NADHEEFA MOHAMED (N.R)

An illustrated guide to what can be caught in maldives.

In Maldives, fishing is big business. The industry is second only to tourism in terms of revenue, and it’s not hard to see why. The surrounding ocean is simply teeming with fish, from the ubiquitous tuna to the mighty marlin. So it’s no wonder that diehard big game enthusiasts flock here for a piece of the action. Here local artist n.r ((Nadee Rachey) presents just a small selection of species likely to end up on your line if you cast it in Maldivian waters.

Catch of the Day

Big Game Fishing

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S T R I P E D M A R L I N ( Kajikia audax)

Noomas hibaru

M A H I M A H I ( Coryphaena hippurus)

Fiyala

G I A N T T R A V E L L Y ( Caranx ignobilis)

Muda handhi

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5

6

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G R E A T B A R R A C U D A ( Sphyraena barracuda)

Maa tholhi

I N D O - P A C I F I C S A I L F I S H ( Istiophorus platypterus)

Fa n - g a n d u h i b a r u

Y E L L O W F I N T U N A ( Thunnus albacares)

Kanneli

W A H O O ( Acanthocybium solandri)

Kurumas

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Culture

The Authentic Heart of the Maldives WORDS KERSTIN PILZ

Kerstin Pilz sets off to the far flung islands during the country’s most important celebration in search of the real Maldives.

There is the Maldives of the brochures with its overwater bungalows and luxury resorts, there is the spectacular underwater world of the Maldives, and there is the Maldives that exists way off the beaten track and outside of any guidebook. To find it, I book the last two remaining seats to Hanimaadhoo Airport in the country’s far north on the first day of the most important religious holiday in the Islamic calendar, Eid al-Adha.

Bodu Eid (Great Eid) as it is locally known, is held 66 days after the end of Ramadan to celebrate the end of the Hajj pilgrimage. It’s a rare chance to see an authentic Maldives in action as the nation mobilises, by boat and plane, for a collective pilgrimage from the capital Male’ back home to the islands, for a week of merrymaking, eating, sharing, and traditional dances and performances.

“It’s a bit like Christmas in your country,” says a man next to me at the luggage carousel, fetching a large Styrofoam box with freshly caught fish. “It’s a time when we all get together as a family to relax, eat good food, give gifts and celebrate our culture and traditions.”

Some islands put on colourful parades and traditional boduberu performances, others

have communal meals and symbolically commemorate Abraham’s original Eid sacrifice with the sacrifice of live animals, whilst some islands engage star performers and stage elaborate shows lasting several days.

Kelaa Island, in the country’s northernmost atoll, promises four days of non-stop spectacles, games, traditional dances, music, parades, yet nobody seems to know the official program.

“Don’t worry, we live on island time,” says Othi our self-appointed guide as he takes us to the simple private house that will be our home for the next few days.

We barely have time to freshen up, before Othi takes us on a bike ride along wide treeless sandy roads and through narrow lanes, shaded by giant breadfruit trees,

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past traditional coral houses in various stages of abandonment, to the ‘heritage village.’ It consists of a handful of thatched huts, purpose-built for the event by the island community to illustrate what island life was like in the days before electricity and indoor plumping. For centuries islanders lived in isolation and total self sufficiency, using as raw materials what was available naturally on the small coral islands, which was mostly coconut palm trees.

We watch a woman spin coconut husks into coir rope, using her hands and foot.

Roanu, as it is called in Dhivehi, used to be a priced export commodity. It was used in boat building and in the construction of homes, including household items such as pillows, mattresses and the ubiquitous hammock chair, the joali, Othi

explains whilst showing us around the sandy-floored huts, that have hessian bags for doors and are dominated by a bed-sized swing, the undholige. “It was the traditional way to keep cool before a/c,” he says. His grandmother still makes thatching from dried palm fronds, but today corrugated iron roofs have replaced traditional roofs and his grandmother’s thatch is bought by resorts.

Families dressed in their finest clothes pose amongst the huts. “We live in an apartment in Male’,” says a father as he hands me his latest-model smart phone to snap the family portrait. His wife, mother and sister are dressed in matching hijab and full length dresses, tailor-made for the occasion, while his two young daughters wear the traditional Dhivehi

libaas, a red dress traditionally with a richly hand embroidered gold collar worn over a black floor-length skirt. “It’s important to us that our children see what island life is all about and how we grew up,” he says.

With the midday call to prayer, the streets magically empty and Othi guides us home, pointing out a house two doors down, where we are to meet for lunch.

Our crash course in local culture, I realize, includes an introduction to the highlights of island cuisine. Hospitality and generosity, towards each other and towards strangers, are some of the values Muslim countries celebrate on Eid al-Adha. .

For the next five days my partner and I are the only white foreigners on the island

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

PHOTOS: KERSTIN PILZ

and we are quickly integrated into the community as if we were part of the extended family. Every day we are invited to a different relative’s house for a succession of treats traditionally prepared for Eid. We feast on biryani, various fish curries, and a delectable variety of sweets including kashikeyo, which is Dhivehi for highly addictive screwpine custard, caramelised breadfruit or bokuri bambukeyo, and my favorite, pirini, a sweet rice pudding, flavoured with rosewater, cinnamon and cardamom and sprinkled with toasted sea almonds.

Amongst banana and breadfruit trees, about thirty males of all ages, are cheerfully transforming themselves into scary-looking monsters to resemble maali, evil spirits and ghosts.

After lunch, the island erupts in a wild, impromptu waterfight. Women in hijabs, kids in swimsuits, teenagers in jeans, nobody gets spared (including us) from being drenched as buckets of water and huge toy spray guns are emptied on the excited crowd. Thoroughly soaked, the crowd heads to the wide and impossibly turquoise lagoon for a fully dressed communal swim.

It ends as suddenly as it began. The streets empty once again until late afternoon when the program resumes with a smorgasbord of traditional performances ranging from boduberu drumming to bandiyaaa jehun, a traditional dance performed by women and the re-enactment of local legends and folk tales. In the evenings the crowd cheers to the energetic Bollywood performances of the local boyband Temperature and cover tunes by the nine-piece band The Olympians from Male’.

The highlight of the four-day spectacle is the kadhamaali parade. Without warning, on the second morning, Othi comes to fetch us. We race along the sandy roads on rickety bikes to a large yard enclosed by a crumbling coral wall.

Amongst banana and breadfruit trees, about thirty males of all ages, are ch eerfully transforming th emselves into scary-looking monsters to resemble maali, evil spirits and ghosts. Bodies and faces are smeared with a thick black paste made from charcoal and finely ground coral sand. Lips are painted bright red, costumes are fashioned from hessian bags and thick tangles of green foliage, Halloween masks are passed around. A boy of about seven looks like he is about to cry amidst the evil looking men.

The kadhamaali parade assembles as the midday prayers are about to end. The sandy main road, all 400 metres of it, is packed when the group begins to march, banging on drums and a copper instrument (kadha) to enthusiastic cheers. It’s a collective re-enactment of old

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traditions. Appeasing the approaching maali turns into a fierce but friendly fight, of locals of all ages and gender splashing all and sundry with handfuls of flour and blackened coral paste and rolling each other in the large puddles that have formed after an overnight downpour.

I am grateful for Othi’s warning to put on old clothes. Before I know it, a young girl with pretty flowers painted on her face smears black charcoal on my arms and face, and local hipster boys in skinny jeans, aviator shades and wild hair, drag me into a large puddle. It’s all done amidst hysterical cheers and with courtesy, making sure I hand my camera to safety, before I am splashed until I am thoroughly drenched.

Back on my feet I am invited to join the dancers to frenetic drumming which culminates in a cheerful community swim to wash off.

Back in Male, my Maldivian friends are amazed by the stories and photos I share. Looking for the real Maldives off the beaten track, I have found facets of Maldivian culture that some of my local friends have never witnessed. The cultural identity of the Maldives may be as a fragile as the natural environment that sustains the island nation, but the authentic heart of island life continues to beat strong during Bodu Eid.

Interview

Shaahina Ali:

A Liveaboard Legend Liveaboards of Maldives Magazine caught up with Shaahina Ali, MD of pioneering dive company Sea Explorers Associates Pvt. Ltd, director of Seasplash Dive Centres and founder of NGO Biodiversity Education and Awareness Maldives (BEAM). With more than 20 years in the diving industry at professional level, here Shaahina looks back at the growth of the liveaboard sector in the Maldives and discusses just what it is that keeps bringing tourists back to its boats.

Parallel to this, Shaahina’s love for the ocean continued to dominate her free time. After marrying a dive instructor and launching Sea Explorers in 1992, Male’s first dive centre, Shaahina became certified as a PADI instructor in 1996. Her goal was never to become an instructor, she explains. However, upon hearing from PADI that only a Maldivian instructor could approve her translations of their learning materials (which she had painstakingly translated in order to enable locals with poor English to certify) and seeing that no one was available to help, she simply decided that she would have to become an instructor herself. Shaahina then went on to certify hundreds of Maldivian and expatriate dive professionals through Sea Explorers. Around the same time, the company began operating two liveaboard boats with many guests flying in from Germany on charter flights and Shaahina has been an important local player in the growth of the sector ever since.

Shaahina’s strongest childhood memories are linked to the ocean. With seawater flooding her family compound at high tide, her oldest memories are of chasing moray eels and fearlessly spearfishing with her mother’s discarded cooking utensils. Her life, she explains, has always been inextricably bound the ocean. So it was no surprise to her family that, after returning from several years in Canada as a young woman studying photojournalism, her first instinct was to hitch a ride on a cargo ship with a mission to visit every inhabited island of the Maldives and learn more about her country. Upon her return, Shaahina joined a Norweigian-based International NGO Worldview International Foundation (WIF) and began working on development support communication projects which focused in large part on the empowerment of women and communities first as a volunteer and later as the country director.

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Exactly twenty years since she became an instructor, she now oversees a few dive centres around the Maldives, and is spearheading the development of her latest venture, BEAM, an NGO which focusses on intercepting ocean plastics.

Here she talks about what she’s learnt over the past two decades in the industry.

You’ve been in the diving industry for 20 years; what have been your proudest moments?

Seeing the number of Maldivian diving professionals that I have brought into the industry is my proudest achievement, I think. Nowadays, we have scaled down our operations at Sea Explorers simply because there is less of a need for the centre. There are other dive centres in Male’ now and I’m so proud to see that many of our competitors were actually trained by us. Many of our alumni are extremely successful business owners now, including many safari boat owners and operators. They’ll still drop in when they’re in Male’, we’ll have a coffee and we’ll discuss business. Many of the boys that came here to train weren’t from Male’ so we were more than just instructors to them, we were like guardians, so we still have that bond.

How has the diving industry changed since you first started?

In terms of investment, then it was 100% foreign. There might have been local shareholders, but they were generally silent partners. This meant that when we started we were able to play a huge part in determining the shape of the industry, which included advising the government on the development of the country’s diving regulations, which I personally believe are among the safest in the world. Nowadays, there is a lot of local investment in the diving industry and many locals now head large dive operators /companies.

In your opinion, how should the liveaboard industry be looking to develop in the near future?

The liveaboard industry has come a long way, even without much government support. This has been in large part due to successful local companies such as Voyages Maldives, Vista, Blue K and several other local boat owners, developing their own standards. Even now, the liveaboard industry is often overlooked at a legislative level as a part of the industry and because of that we still need to develop our self regulations. The industry needs to be looked at as a whole and needs a standard of building /operation that has to take into account our waste management and safety and service regulations. Similar to when you have a resort being built, there is a minimum requirement for building and operations too.

These areas are currently being self-regulated, and a lot of the time the standards are very high, but there are still areas where we need to improve and this can only be done by law and like resort inspections, liveaboard inspection and approvals for operation. LAM plays a huge role in this. At the end of the day, we are all competitors but when we come together as an association, we have the same goals. We have always been a key body for regulating the industry and advocating on behalf of its members for the general good and the industry– and I’m very proud of the board and to have been a board member for eight years.

What is it that keeps divers coming back to Maldivian liveaboards?

The best way for a diver to experience the Maldives is to go on a liveaboard boat. If you’re looking to do two or three dives a day and the majority of your budget is set aside for diving, you just cannot beat being on a boat. If you’re in a resort, you’re limited to the dive sites that are within a half-hour to an hour’s boat ride but when you’re on a boat you can cover several atolls and go to the best dive sites. And we are lucky, our dive sites are LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

rarely crowded when compared to other countries. It’s truly a beautiful way to enjoy the Maldives. And now, boats are bigger, more comfortable and far more luxurious than they used to be, not like in the old days when guests had to share a toilet! Now there’s a lot of privacy and space on the boats, with operators catering to a more demanding clientele. We’re even making boats with individual balconies!

The industry has shown that we’ll always find a way.

It’s still quite rare to see Maldivian women in leadership positions within the tourism industry. Do you feel some weight of responsibility as a role model? And how can we improve these figures?

I’ve always been proud of what I’ve achieved not because I am a woman, but because like any other I have worked hard. When the government asked us to develop the diving regulations, I was happy that I could be there as a Maldivian and a woman in an industry where at that point I was probably the only Maldivian woman at that level. Since then, several other female divers and professionals have taken up positions of leadership in the industry as dive instructors or base leaders or even business managers. There are only about six or seven of us, but we’ve always been extremely vocal. There might be less of us but we’ve always achieved leadership positions, often taking on more senior roles than our male peers. However, there are hardly any women working on the liveaboard boats – not only in diving but in general as crew or even captains and I’d like to see that change. I would like to see girls going into being boat captains or even boat crew. Why not? A liveaboard boat is a fantastic place to work and provides a wealth of experience and exposure to the environment and our islands.

Being in the field as a woman, I always try to see people’s potential and to nurture that. I understand that there are times when you have to be flexible when people’s circumstances change, for example when a woman has a baby, and I have always accommodated that. I am also currently working with the ministry to

Interview

develop a number of TVET courses for young people and my goal is to have courses that enable girls to enter fields that they are traditionally not encouraged to choose – not only diving, but engineering and mechanical engineering for example. There needs to be more awareness amongst the community as well and that will take a long time. But I look at life very positively – if we work for it, we can achieve it.

We have started with two schools and will have all the schools in Male’ in the next three months. We believe in the future generation and I believe they are the generation that could actually make a difference in changing our very complacent behaviour towards our environment.

What are you most passionate about these days?

Throughout my whole life, all my best experiences have been in the sea – the ocean. The ocean gives me hope, it revitalises me. Whenever I’m tired or fed up, I get in the ocean and I can rethink things and recharge my batteries.

But what I’ve seen in the last few years is an increase in pollution. The liveaboard industry plays its part in this cycle and we must take responsibility for this. I founded Biodiversity Education and Awareneness Maldives (BEAM) to try to counter this problem. To educate and get communities and industries more conscious and to take responsibility. To get people to participate in the interception of plastics that will get into our oceans. As a charity, BEAM has partnered with Parley for the Ocean, an international NGO that aims to intercept plastic before it reaches the ocean and then redesigns and recycles this waste into other products. Adidas for example has now partnered with Parley and creates trainers from this plastic. In a period of eight months we have managed to intercept 15 containers of plastic, shipped to Parley’s designated recycling facility to be redesigned. We are soon launching collection points throughout the atolls, starting in Huvadhoo, and will work with local partners to collaborate on the logistics of bringing the collected plastic back to our storage point in Male’, ready to be shipped for recycling. We want to go further with this project and bring back a sense of volunteerism in the community to achieve our goal of cleaning every single uninhabited island in the Maldives. Our biggest component is collection cages in schools where school kids bring their plastic waste cleaned and segregated to school.

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PHOTO: SHAAHINA ALI

I would like to see girls going into being boat captains or even boat crew. Why not?

A liveaboard boat is a fantastic place to work.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

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Sunken Treasure WORDS ADELE VERDIER-ALI

With the wreck of the MV Victory out of action for the foreseeable future, here’s our guide to the best of the rest…

Earlier this year, the Maldives began construction on an ambitious bridge to link the capital Male’ to the neighbouring airport island, Hulhule’. With work well under way, the channel between the two islands is bustling with activity. As a result, the Maldives Victory, arguably the country’s most famous wreck, has temporarily been designated as out of bounds due to its close proximity to the construction site. Local divers have attached marker buoys to the ship in order to signal its location to the workers and are confident that the construction will cause no damage to the wreck’s structural integrity. In fact, some believe that a couple of years’ rest might actually do the nation’s most dived wreck some good.

But in the meantime, where to dive to catch a glimpse of sunken treasure? Well, although the MV Victory might be the Maldives’ most ubiquitous wreck, it is by no means its most impressive. Indeed, it’s no surprise that a country with many thousands of submerged reefs is home to a considerable number of wrecked vessels from throughout the centuries. In the distant past, galleons, Indiamen and barques alike have met watery ends upon these hidden reefs, crashing in weather both fair and foul. What’s more, many of them were carrying valuable cargo on board – gold, silver and spices - and their captains had to watch helplessly as their precious consignments sank before their eyes to irretrievable depths. More recently, fishing trawlers and cargo ships have continued to meet a similar fate.

And so, although traces of the ancient wreckages have all but vanished, the sea is still strewn with metal skeletons. Alongside the unlucky scuppered vessels, many resorts have also purposefully sunk a number of boats for divers to enjoy. So whilst the Victory is on sabbatical, here’s our pick of sites that are guaranteed to get you reaching for your dive gear.

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The Blockbusters Almost as famous as the MV Victory, these two wrecks are big names in Maldivian diving and are well worth the journey to get there.

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British Loyalty

The Shipyard

Addu Atoll, S E of Hitha dhoo

Lha viy a ni Atoll, Ea s t of Fe liva ru Ka ndu

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0 – 3 0m

Built in Newcastle in 1928, this 140m-long oil tanker was twice torpedoed during World War II. First in Madagascar by a Japanese midget submarine in May 1942 and again by a German U-183 on March 9th 1944, after she had been moved to Addu Atoll to serve as a storage vessel. Neither attack sank the vessel and she remained in Addu for the rest of the war. She was finally sunk on January 5th 1946 when the British towed the ship to her present location and fired on her from a British warship, causing oil to leak from the vessel for many years. The ship now rests on her starboard side, with the port side at 16m. Dense hard and soft corals now grow all over the ship, including on the propeller which sits at 28m. Divers can also swim through the large hole made by the torpedo to explore the ship’s interior. The site harkens back to an incredibly interesting point in Maldivian history and is a must for those interested in the British presence in the country.

With the bow of the Skipjack II protruding high out of the water, this dive site is instantly recognisable. Before becoming the atoll’s most remarkable water feature, the vessel was used by the Felivaru fish factory for many years, being permanently moored to the island’s jetty. In 1985, when the factory decided that the vessel no longer served them, it was agreed to scupper her at sea, deep in the channel. However, on the day she was to be sunk, on the way to the decided location, the ship caught fire and was cut loose for fear of a chemical explosion. Water flooded the vessel and she began to sink stern first. The bow reportedly continued to burn for almost a month. Another vessel was soon scuttled in the same location, and although initially also in an upright position, this ship now lies 40m away from the Skipjack II, lying on her port side at 28m. Both vessels are now home to many soft and hard corals and an abundance of reef fish. Strong currents can sometimes make diving here difficult, but in the right conditions this site provides outstanding diving for both beginners and advanced divers alike.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

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The Familiar Friends These spots often make an appearance on liveaboard itineraries and provide a change of scenery from the many sloping reefs and submerged thilas. Many sunk on purpose to diversify the underwater landscape, these relics have attracted a variety of hard and soft corals, transforming them into colourful homes for an abundance of fish life.

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Kuda Giri Wreck

Kudhi Maa

South Male ’ Atoll, be twe e n Maafushi a nd D higufinolhu

M a c hc ha fus hi Hous e Re e f, S outh A ri Atoll

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To the west of Dhigufinolhu island lies a small, submerged patch of coral known locally as a giri, (kuda meaning small in Dhivehi). On its south-west side lies a wreck of a steel fishing trawler, which has been lying on the sandy bottom at 35m for more than a decade. The vessel lies upright with its bow pointing towards the reef at about 18m. The deck slopes down towards the stern, which is at about 30m. Both soft and hard corals adorn the outside of the vessel, and divers can find a resident school of batfish, glassfish, wrasses and jackfish. There’s also a chance to spot frog and leaf fish here, as well as on the reef itself, which is extremely pretty and well worth exploring after the wreck. A great spot for night diving, too.

This steel Japanese cargo vessel, sometimes also simply known as Machchafushi Wreck, was sunk especially for divers in 1998. Since then the vessel has been inundated with life – both soft and hard corals compete with sponges, algae and sea squirts for space on this 30m ship, making this a fantastic spot for observing and photographing macro life. In addition to a profusion of critters, divers can find large lionfish, boxfish and pufferfish around the vessel. Those who wish to explore the interior can easily do so from access points on either side of the hull.

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The Hidden Gems-

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The SS Sea Gull

Lady Christine

The Gaafaru Wrecks

North eas t of G a a fa ru Is la nd, North Ma le ’ Atoll

G a a fa ru outs ide re e f, North M a le ’ Atoll

Gaafaru is administratively part of North Male’ Atoll but is an unusual island in that it stands apart from the main atoll, in one of the largest single reefs in the Maldives.

The reef is often completely invisible and has thus been the location of many wrecks, several of which are still diveable today. These wrecks are perfect for those divers looking to go off-piste in the Maldives. Situated off the beaten track, they are dived far less than their counterparts in other atolls. Here are just two of them:

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In 1879, the SS Sea Gull, a 1012 tonne steamship, was travelling from London to Calcutta when she ran aground outside Gaafaru. Today, the anchor sits on the reef at one metre and can be spotted at low tide. The rest of the ship split in two and other pieces are scattered across the reef, such as the two-cylinder engine.

Due to the length of time in the water, the wreckage parts are almost entirely covered in coral, which at times makes them easy to miss.

There is also a cave at 30m, where it’s possible to spot nurse sharks.

Elsewhere, divers can often see barracudas, jacks, eels and stingrays.

Before she ran aground on the north west side of Gaafaru on April 16th 1974, the Lady Christine had been conducting survey work and laying communications cables. When stormy weather meant that a tugboat was unable to pull her from the reef local workers were frantically called upon to rescue all valuables from the ship as she began filling with water.

The ship owners eventually resorted to blasting holes in the reef to create a channel as a last-ditch attempt to save the ship, but all efforts proved ineffectual. When all salvage attempts were wrapped up, the vessel was abandoned. The ship now sits about 300m west of Hulhangu Kandu, with the bow visible above the surface. Most of the wreck lies scattered on the reef above ten metres and an incredible variety of marine life can be found in the vicinity – fish, eels, rays, sharks and turtles. There are also some beautiful caves at 30m, which many divers explore first, before making their way to the wreck for the remainder of the dive.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

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The Mystery Makers Many of the older ships that sank in the Maldives have long since disappeared. However, their stories are the stuff of legend, due in part to their documentation in the writings of French sailor François Pyrard de Laval, shipwrecked himself aboard the Corbin and taken prisoner for five years in 1602. But what really makes these spots intriguing, are the treasures they cast into the waves upon sinking.

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The Corbin

The Persia Merchant

Goidhoo I s la nd Hous e Re e f Baa Atoll

M a kunudhoo, Ha a D ha a lu Atoll

Unknown

Unknown

The Corbin, a French ship which ran aground on the reef of Goidhoo Island in 1602, is best known in the Maldives for being the vessel that brought French sailor and memoirist François Pyrard de Laval to the country. A survivor of the wreck, Pyrard was held in captivity in the Maldives for five years, only managing to leave when a band of marauders from India helped him escape.

He then went on to publish an account of his time in the country and the journal provides one of the richest historical insights into the Maldives’ past. Although nothing remains of the vessel, the site still prompts intrigue, especially amongst those who know that the vessel’s cargo of many thousands of silver coins is still scattered across the ocean floor, waiting to be retrieved.

Maamakunudhoo Atoll, which is administratively part of Haa Alif Atoll in the far north of the country, has seen many ships scuttled on her reefs over the centuries. Sticking out to the far west of Haa Alif, Maamakunudhoo stands alone with only one inhabited island, and her isolation has often caused its reef to go undetected by passing ships. The most famous of these was the Persia Merchant, which sank in 1658 en route from England to Bengal.

Many were drowned and salvage of the eight chests of gold and silver on board was unsuccessful. 50 survivors were for a while stuck on an uninhabited island in the southern part of the atoll, where they found a well with drinking water. The island today is called Fenboahhuraa, meaning ‘Drinking Water Island’. They were later given a vessel in which they sailed to Sri Lanka but the precious cargo remains in the ocean to this day.

PHOTO: MOHAMED SEENEEN

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In the distant past, galleons, Indiamen and barques alike have met watery ends upon these hidden reefs, crashing in weather both fair and foul.

Travel Guide

About Town What to do, see and eat whilst spending a day in the capital.

WORDS ADÈLE VERDIER-ALI

A liveaboard holiday can sometimes mean spending a day near the airport, either whilst waiting to join your safari or to fly home. With the capital only 10 minutes away from the international airport and a left luggage facility with prices starting from US$5, it’s well worth having a mosey around Male’, even if you only have a few hours.

What to See This small blue and white tiled chalet-like edifice is actually a tomb, holding the sarcophagus of Abu Barakaat Yusuf-al Barbaree, the Moroccan traveller said to be responsible for converting Maldives to the Islamic faith after (according to legend) taming a wild sea demon in the 12th century. Less well known is that another man also lies entered here, Sayyid Rasgefaanu, an Arab who ruled over the Maldives in 1692. The large gated mansion behind the tomb is known as Muliaage. Originally built in 1919 by Sultan Ibrahim Iskander I for his son, the building became government property in 1936 when the sultan was overthrown. Since then it has been used as both a government office complex and the presidential palace. And to complete the historical tour, tourists can visit the grand Islamic Centre, which is located about 200m west of Muliaage. It is one of the largest mosques in South Asia and also houses an Islamic library and conference hall.

With an estimated population of more than 150 thousand and an area of 5.8 km2, Male’ is one of the most densely populated cities in the world. Simply witnessing the hustle and bustle of the city is worthwhile, as it is in stark contrast to the quiet, slow-paced life of the outer islands.

The island was once referred to as King’s Island and has always been the centre of commercial and economic life in the country. Although few edifices of much historical value remain in the city, any good day trip to Male’ begins in the environs of the country’s oldest mosque; the Friday Mosque or Hukuru Miskiy. Built in 1658 during the reign of Ibrahim Iskander I, the mosque has been in continual use ever since, with the wide unusual minaret being added ten years later. Interestingly, it was built on the site of a much older mosque, built in the 12th century when Sultan Mohamed Bin Abdullah converted to Islam and tore down the temple that occupied the spot previously. The Hukuru Miskiy consists almost entirely of interlocking coral stone blocks, and the intricate carvings on the exterior represent some of the best examples of Maldivian craftsmanship, as do the exquisite lacquer calligraphy and wooden carvings inside the mosque. Directly opposite the Hukuru Miskiy lies another important historical site, known as the Medhu Ziyaaraiy.

What to Do After visiting the Islamic centre, visitors might enjoy a stroll in Sultan Park, which lies on the other side of the road. Housing some of the capital’s oldest trees, the park was once part of the grounds of the sultan’s palace.

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From here, sightseers can enter the National Museum (accessed from Chandhanee Magu) to view important artefacts of Maldivian history such as ancient scrolls and garments worn by the royal family. Sadly, no Buddhist artefacts are on display but the stamp collection is well worth a visit. Upon exiting the museum, visitors can head down Chandhanee Magu towards the quayside Republic Square where they can spot the largest iteration of the Maldivian flag and observe the many locals who gather there to natter and people watch. Walking west along the harbour wall, visitors will soon come upon both the Fish Market and the Local Market. Fishermen can be see unloading gargantuan yellowfin tuna here, alongside a variety of other more modestly sized species. The market offers a wide variety of locally produced products, such as fruit, vegetables, curry pastes, sweets and chutneys. It’s also a great place to pick up a fresh coconut to quench your thirst as you wander around.

For those who’d prefer to lounge by the beach, there are two artificial beaches in Male’. The older of the two is situated on the eastern side of the island and is surrounded by cafés and ice-cream parlours and is a ten-minute walk from the airport jetty. The other beach, which was inaugurated this year and is known as Rasfannu Beach, is located on the west, behind IGMH hospital and is a short taxi ride away. And if a day in the city seems like too long, visitors can always hop on a ferry to Villingili from the western terminal (ask your taxi driver for Villingili terminal). Ferries run every ten minutes and take ten minutes to get there. A single ticket will set you back 3.25mrf (approximately 20 cents). This quiet island is technically the fifth ward of Male’ but is far more relaxed than the city. There is only a handful of vehicles and there are many green spaces. The beaches on either side of the island are peaceful and on the western beach there is a large water sports hut offering everything from flyboarding to stand up paddle boarding.

What to Eat There are a number of great places to eat in Male’ offering a variety of different cuisines.

If you’re heading to the capital early, then you’ll definitely want to try a local breakfast.

Many small local cafés offer Maldivian dishes of mashuni (tuna and coconut sambal) or kulhimas (curried tuna) served with freshly made roshi, which is an extremely thin chapatti. If you’re looking to sample a bit of everything alongside some European breakfast food, head to SeaHouse, which is located on the first floor above Hulumale’ Ferry Terminal, and try their morning buffet.

For lunch you might enjoy something a bit more familiar and Shell Beans on Boduthakurufaanu Magu, Seagulls on Chandhanee Magu and Breakwater at the artificial beach

The island was once referred to as King’s Island and has always been the centre of commercial and economic life in the country. offer a mix of eastern and western cuisines.

Come 4 o’clock you’ll notice all the locals flooding the cafés for local afternoon snacks known as hedhika or shorts eats. These tasty fried and grilled finger foods resemble Indian samosas but have a completely distinct taste.

Their main ingredient is tuna (no surprise there) with either coconut, egg, cabbage, potato. They’re extremely moreish! Lemongrass on Fareedhee Magu and Citron in the carnival area (a short walk from Hulhumale’ Terminal) make some of the best hedhika in town. If you’re a coffee connoisseur, then no doubt you’ll be on the lookout for a decent cup of joe. There are two lovely specialty LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

coffee joints in Male’; The Civil Coffee Society on Fareedhee Magu and Meraki Coffee Roasters on Husnuheena Magu (behind the parliament building). Both offer fantastic coffee, a friendly atmosphere and the best pastries and cookies in town. If you’re still around for dinner, you could head to Pizza Mia nearby Meraki, for a really authentic pizza. Thai Wok on Ameer Ahmed Magu (opposite Hotel Jen) offers good Thai food and Salt Café & Restaurant on Mohamed Ismail Didi Goalhi (near the fish market) offers a lovely view out to sea from its 7th floor terrace.

What to Buy No day trip would be complete without buying a few souvenirs to take home with you! After picking up some sweet treats at the local market such as Addu bondi, a sugary coconut sweet wrapped in dried banana leaf, or dhiyaa hakuru, a honey-like syrup made from the toddy sap of palm trees, visitors can head to the Chandhanee Magu gift shops.

Here you’ll a mix of local and imported trinkets and keepsakes. The locally made items include the beautifully lacquered vases and pots known as malaafaiy as well as carved wooden manta rays and ornaments. All the usual souvenir items can also be found – key rings, t-shirts, sarongs - but many of these are imported. Be ready to haggle over the prices, too. Lastly, a word of warning – although these shops sell coral items and shark jaws, it is illegal to export these from the Maldives, so don’t be tempted to purchase them as they will be confiscated at the airport.

And finally, if you’re about to head on a safari cruise, why not pop into STO supermarket (near Republic Square) to stock up on a few snacks? This government-run supermarket stocks a great range of Ceylon and herbal teas, as well as Lindt and Milka chocolate, crisps, nuts and sweets. Elsewhere Fantasy supermarket on Fareedhee Magu stocks a range of goods imported from Australia, although these tend to be a little pricier.

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ISLAMIC CENTRE

NATIONAL ART GALLERY

SEAGULL CAFE NATIONAL MUSEUM NATIONAL FANTASY S U LMT UA NS EPUAMR K

NATIONAL HIUS KK UI YR U A R TH GU AKLUL RE RU Y M M ISKIY

THAI WOK

SHELL BEANS

M E D H U Z I Y A A R AMI YE D H U Z I Y A A R A I Y

A I R P O R T F E R RA YI R P O R T F E R R Y SEA HOUSE

MULEE AAGE MULIAAGE SULTAN PARK

CITRON

MERAKI COFFEE ROASTERS

PIZZA MIA

ADK HOSPITAL ADK HOSPITAL ARTIFICIAL BEACH

BREAKWATER

SURF POINT

TSUNAMI MONUMENT

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

TSUNAMI MONUMENT

SURF POINT

ARTIFICIAL BEACH

Local Language

Speak Easy WORDS ADELE VERDIER-ALI

Want to try your hand at the local lingo during your holiday in the Maldives? This handy guide to local liveaboard terms and useful phrases will make you feel part of the crew in no time!

The official and common language of the Maldives is called Dhivehi, an Indo-Aryan language that is written from right to left in its own distinct script known as thaana. The language is unique to the country and is only spoken in one other location in the world: Minicoy in the Indian Union Territory of Lakshadweep, an island which once belonged to the Maldives. Dhivehi has its origins in ancient Indian and Sinhalese languages but over the years, particularly with the advent of Islam in the twelfth century and the presence of European colonisers from the sixteenth century onwards, the language also borrowed words from Arabic, Persian, Portuguese and English.

Having said this, in the Maldives you’ll find that most people speak English very well.

English is used extensively in commerce and hospitality and is the medium of instruction for most subjects in the local high schools.

So for tourists with even a little knowledge of English, communicating with locals and crew is not normally a problem. However, many visitors do like to learn a few words and phrases during their holidays as it’s a great way to connect with the islanders.

Scuba divers in particular tend to enjoy learning a few Dhivehi terms as there are a number of very distinct words to describe the topography of Maldivian dive sites.

The few words and expressions mentioned here provide a great starting point for those looking to pick up a few key phrases. So why not get practising before you arrive?

Scuba divers in particular tend to enjoy learning a few Dhivehi terms as there are a number of very distinct words to describe the topography of Maldivian dive sites.

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Flora and Fauna Numbers One – Ekheh

Local Geographical Terms Explained

Two – Dheiy

Maldivians have a large number of words to describe the geographical and topographical features of the ocean surrounding their islands.

Most of these terms have no direct translation and need a little explaining.

Four – Hathareh

Three – Thineh

Five – Faheh Six – Haeh Seven – Hatheh

Atoll – A ring of islands surrounded by a common reef formation Falhu – A lagoon bordered by a reef, which sometimes has one or more reefs within it

Eight – Asheh

Coconut tree – Ruh Coral – Gaal/Muraka Dolphin – Koamas Fish – Mas Flower – Maa Lobster – Ihi Ray – Madi Shark – Miyaru Whale shark – Fehurihi

Nine – Nuvaeh Ten – Dhihaeh

Faru – A large reef extending above the surface at low tide, popular for snorkelling Finolhu – An exposed sandbank, often with little or no vegetation

Bird – Dhooni

Boats & Navigation Anchor – Nagili

Time

Boat – Dhoani

Afternoon – Mendhuru fas

Compass – Samugaa

Evening – Haveeru

Current – Oi

Futtaru – A reef where waves break

Later – Fahun

High Tide – Bodu dhiya

Giri – A small patch of coral close to the surface, often with little or no current

Morning – Hendhunu

Low Tide – Hiki dhiya

Night – Reygandu

Mast – Kunbu

Now – Mihaaru

Oar – Fali

Today – Miadhu

Rising Tide – Dhiyavaru boduvun

Tomorrow – Maadhan

Rope – Vau

Yesterday – Iyye

Rudder – Hungaanu

Fushi – A large island, usually located on the outside edge of the atoll

Kandu / Kandu Olhi - A channel that connects the outside ocean to the inner atoll, often with strong currents Thila – A submerged plateau; similar to a giri but in deeper water and often with stronger current Vilu – Deep area inside a lagoon

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Travel Tips

Useful Phrases Environment & Landscape

Getting to Know You

Beach – Athirimathi

Hello – As-salamu-alaikum

Horizon – Udhares

How are you? – Haalu kihineh?

Island – Rah

I’m fine, thank you – Rangalhu, shukuriyyaa

Lagoon – Faruthere

Great! – Baraabaru!

Ocean – Maakandu

(Very) Happy – (Varah) ufaa

Sandbank – Finolhu

What’s your name? – Kon nameh kiyanee?

Shore – Gondu dhoh

Which island are you from? – Kon rasheh?

Sky – Udu Water – Fen Waves – Raalhu

Discussing the Journey How long will it take? – Kihaa ireh vaanee?

When are we leaving? – Kon iraku dhanee?

Weather

Where are we going? – Kon thaakah dhanee?

Cloudy – Bana Cold – Fini Hot – Hoonu Rain – Vaarey Storm – Koligandu Sun – Iru Swell – Baani Wind – Vai

Basic expressions Yes – Aanh/aadhe No – Noon I don’t know – Neynge Where is it? – E kobaa?

What time is it? – Gadin kihaa ireh?

Thank you – Shukuriyyaa (You’re) welcome! – Maruhabaa!

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LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Fa c t s & F i g u r e s

Maldives at a Glance The Maldives is one of the most interesting countries on Earth. With an average ground-level elevation of 1.5m, it is the planet’s lowest lying county. And with a population of just under 350,000 people and a total land area of 298km2 spread over 90,000 km2, it is Asia’s smallest country in terms of both population and landmass despite being one of the world’s most geographically dispersed. Here are the vital statistics of a truly unique nation.

Immediate neighbours – India and Sri Lanka (Northeast), Laccadive Islands (North), Chagos Archipegalo (South), Seychelles (Southeast) International airports – Ibrahim Nasir Int’l. Airport* (Kaafu Atoll), Gan Int’l.

Airport (Seenu Atoll), Hanimaadhoo Int’l. Airport (Haa Dhaalu Atoll), Villa Int’l.

Airport (Alif Dhaalu Atoll) International relations - UN and most of its specialized agencies, Commonwealth, OIC, the Non-Aligned Movement, and SAARC Credit cards - American Express, Diners Club, Eurocard, JCB, Master Card.

Visa Entry -No prior visa arrangements required. A tourist visa of 30 days will be given to visitors with valid travel documents, upon arrival.

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Capital and largest city Official languages Religion Demonym

Malé 4°10′N 73°30′E Maldivian (Dhivehi) Sunni Islam

Government

Unitary presidential constitutional republic Abdulla Yameen People's Majlis

President Legislature Independence from the UK Current constitution Landmass Total area Population 2014 census Density Currency

Maldivian

26 July 1965 7 August 2008 298km2 90,000 sqkm 341,356[9] 1,102.5/km2 (11th) Maldivian rufiyaa (MVR) Maldives Time (UTC+5)

Time zone Date format Drives on the

dd/mm/yy left

Calling code Internet TLD

+960 .mv

Geographical coordinates Total no. of islands

3°15’N 73°00’E 1,190 islands Length: 823 km, Width: 130 km

Archipelago Total no. of administrative atolls Largest atoll Languages Smallest atoll Literacy rate Highest natural elevation Currency Average natural elevation Working hours

98.2% (10-45 yrs) 7.8 ft (2.4 metres) Maldivian Rufiya (MVR/RF, USD 1 = RF 15.42) 5.9 ft (1.8 metres) Banks: 8:30 am to 2 pm (Sun to Thu), Government offices: 8:00 am to 4pm (Sun to Thu) Friday and Saturday 31.1° C (Mean max), 25.5° C (Mean min)

Weekend Temperature Major industries National flower

Tourism, Fishing Pink rose Coconut palm

National tree Monsoons

Southwest: May-Oct, Northeast: Nov-Apr

Average daily sunshine Average annual rainfall Humidity

19 atolls, 189 inhabited islands Huvadhoo Atoll (6486 sqkm) Dhivehi is the national language.

English is widely spoken as a second language Nyaviyani Atoll (4.81 sqkm)

8 hours 1793.3 mm 79%

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

Culture

Eid Performances WORDS KERSTIN PILZ

Travelling in the Maldives during Eid Al-Adha?

Here’s what you can expect to see during the country’s biggest religious festival.

Boduberu

Kadhamaali Originally a late night walk by the elders to the beat of a drum around the island to ward off evil spirits, today the Kadhamaali is a cheerful parade that resembles Halloween with a Maldivian twist. Men of all ages are covered with a thick black paste made from charcoal and finely ground coral sand to resemble maali, evil spirits or ghosts. In Kulhudhuffushi men transform into white mashi maali, or ‘ghosts of mud,’ using mashi, a type of clay that is found in the island’s mangroves.

Bodumas Dancing to the hypnotic beat of a big (bodu) Maldivian drum made from coconut wood and covered with goatskin is the most famous form of music in the Maldives. It is said to have evolved among commoners as a form of alternative to court music and was performed after a long day’s work. It is thought to have been introduced centuries ago from Southeast Africa, and became almost forgotten in the course of the country’s modernisation during the 1980s and 90s. A recent revival, in part due to demand from resorts, has led to a new generation of boduberu musicians. Boduberu begins with a slow beat building to a frenetic crescendo of drumming and dancing.

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This performance involves a large (bodu) fish (mas), woven from fresh coconut palm fronds and collectively created by islanders in the days leading up to Eid. In Kelaa, islanders prepared a 10 metre-long fish and a smaller 4 metre-long fish. During the bodumas performance the fish are carried by men crouched inside the palm frond structure. The giant fish, along with performers variously disguised as ghosts and evil spirits, become characters in the re-enactment of folktales that are believed to have originated in pre-Islamic days.

Dhandi Jehun

Bandiyaa Jehun

This is a traditional Maldivian stick dance performed in a graceful rhythmic fashion. A group of about 30 men dance in a single group, with each dancer holding a 90-centimetre-long stick, the dhandi, which he knocks against that of a partner. The group dances and walks to the beat of a drum and the rhythm of the sticks, whilst a lead vocalist sings traditional songs such as thaara and unbaa.

This dance, which is an adaptation of the Indian pot dance, is performed by young women, carrying metal water pots. The women mark time by beating the metal water pot with a metal ring. Dancers wear traditional local dress, the dhigu hedhun, a long skirt and blouse, traditionally made from handwoven fabric. Once widespread, it is now only worn at special events and performances.

LIVEABOARDS OF MALDIVES

A selection of anchors and a wide range of quality marine equipments

Ameenee Magu, Male’, Maldives +960 331 4932, 331 4933 marine@seagullmaldives.com www.seagullmaldives.com/marine

www.scubaspa.com

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