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CHAMPION OF THE WORLD Sasa Sestic's journey from cappucino-maker to world's best barista ––– Words by Emma Macdonald Front cover photography by Martin Ollman
HAVING A SIMPLE COFFEE with a Barista Champion of the World turns out to be not so simple at all. Within the labyrinthine corridors of Sasa Sestic’s coffee company Ona, in Canberra’s industrial enclave of Fyshwick, we reverentially take a seat in the main office. In comes someone carrying a tray containing glass jugs of deep brown brew. No words are spoken as Sasa puts his nose to the first jug and inhales deeply. “This”, he announces, “is Blue Copper–one of our experimental lots from Ethiopia.” We sip slowly and find ourselves swirling the suspension over our tastebuds. There are hints of red wine and dark chocolate. Our heavy pottery cups drain and it is time for the second brew—a washed Panama bean that is light with jasmine with a hint of green tea. Who knew coffee could be so complex? Sasa does. His good friend Mick Rose—also in the coffee trade—says Sasa is so deeply connected to coffee, so emotionally invested, so singleminded and obsessive, that one sip of an exceptional roast can bring him to tears. “Oh yeah, I have seen him cry when he drinks it,” says Mick. Sasa has also been known to travel for days to find a particular coffee bush—35 hours in planes, 10 hours of driving followed by several hours on horseback, through thick jungle. Nothing stands between him and the next great bean.
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