LIMELIGHT

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Mission Statement: Limelight aims to be a leading online destination for millennials interested in fashion, beauty and lifestyle trends. We are a community that empowers its readers to discover their self through fashion and beauty.

We defy conformity and therefore inspire everyone to be themselves. Dare to be different, follow Limelight.

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Living on a lighted stage Approaches the unreal For those who think and feel In touch with some reality Beyond the gilded cage Cast in this unlikely role Ill-equipped to act With insufficient tact One must put up barriers To keep oneself intact Living in the limelight The universal dream For those who wish to seem Those who wish to be Must put aside the alienation Get on with the fascination The real relation The underlying theme Living in a fish eye lens Caught in the camera eye I have no heart to lie I can’t pretend a stranger Is a long-awaited friend All the world’s indeed a stage And we are merely players Performers and portrayers Each another’s audience Outside the gilded cage Living in the limelight The universal dream For those who wish to seem Those who wish to be Must put aside the alienation Get on with the fascination The real relation The underlying theme Living in the limelight The universal dream For those who wish to seem Those who wish to be Must put aside the alienation Get on with the fascination The real relation The underlying theme Lyrics to Limelight by Rush

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LimeLight VOLUME 1: FALL/WINTER 2018 #DARE TO BE DIFFERENT CONTENTS 6 8 8 14 20 26 38 44 56

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Letter From The Editor Collection Reviews -Gabriela Hearst -Ulla Johnson -Myram Nassir Zadeh

The Legacy of Paul Allen The Future Rests with Technology Inside the Mind of Kristina Varaksina Editorial: Streetstyle Meets Streetwear

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“As an introvert myself, I’ve always valued authenticity and being true to oneself.”

- KELLI BRAUN 6

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

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hat is Limelight? Is it fame? Is it fortune? Is it having it all? It’s a magazine that juxtaposes the idea that fame and fortune will bring happiness, when the truth is that being an individualist is the only key to life.

Growing up I was fascinated by magazines, but they all felt too surreal, and contrived. While this did open up my imagination, I felt magazines never reflected people like me who were introverted, outcasts or just different. Therefore, Limelight is ready to expose you to the current culture and zeitgeist, while respecting and encouraging authenticity over grandeur.

We are here to provide culturally and fashionably rich, relevant and down-to-earth information to inspire readers to enrich their lifestyle.

Limelight is serving the needs of the overlooked population by inciting readers to meld fashion with identity. We are rebelling against the portion of the fashion industry that caters to the 1%. We are here to tell it like it is and to be outspoken.

Meaning:

The name Limelight comes from the song of the same name from Canadian rock band, Rush. The singer, songwriter, and drummer of the band, Neil Peart, a known introvert, discusses his discomfort with fame in this 1981 hit from the band’s album Moving Pictures. As an introvert myself I’ve always valued authenticity and being true to oneself.

Aside from this being a personal favorite song, it’s the message that contributed to the name. The song starts off with the line, “Living in a fish eye lens, caught in the camera eye”, meaning that the media distorts your perception.

A line from the song loosely quotes Shakespeare’s ‘As You Like It’, “All the world’s indeed a stage and we are merely players, performers and portrayers.”

Peart is suggesting that famous people and people in mainstream media are not being themselves. Limelight, as part of the media world, is on a mission to go against this notion and highlight people’s real personality and self.

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COLLECTION REVIEWS: SPRING 2019

Modern-Day Innovation With A Heritage Twist at Gabriela Hearst Timeless Sophistication Takes Center Stage Known for her high luxury designs and craftsmanship, Uruguayan-born designer Gabriela Hearst presented a sleek, yet grounded collection during this Fall’s New York Fashion Week.

Set against a bleak grey concrete runway, Hearst’s designs sprang to life.

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Photo Credit: Elle

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COLLECTION REVIEWS: SPRING 2019

Beginning the show, Hearst sent structured

dresses down the runway with impeccably crafted pleated skirts and peplum details. In a market filled with floral, flowy silhouettes, Hearst stood out with her strong lines and minimal detailing.

Trench coats in colorblocked metallic fabric and fully-fashioned knitwear demonstrated her ability to put a new spin on classic silhouettes.

Hearst is the go-to designer for perfectly-tailored suiting and her Spring 2019 collection did not disappoint. Sharp lapels on double-breasted blazers paired with beautifully draped wideleg pants offered the perfect balance between structured and relaxed. Her use of unexpected colors like raspberry and blush were refreshing, yet the real show stopper was a midnight blue silk suit with a proportioned fitted jacket and slim trousers.

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As seen throughout her collection, Hearst uses her craft of tailoring as the foundation and weaves it through each of her looks, whether it is a classic suit, or a well draped Chambray jumpsuit..

Even her most relaxed silhouettes, like a pearlencrusted cream slip dress that hits at the ankle or a striped oversized shirt dress worn over wideleg trousers, emanate her restrained minimalism and penchant for precision, a skill that usually takes years to hone. Although her line has only been around for 3 years, Hearst has quickly positioned herself as a New York staple. From an effortless off-the-shoulder white corset dress for date night to a stunning three-piece khaki set for the boardroom, one could find an outfit for every occasion.

Aside from her flawless tailoring, Hearst is also known for her leather work, which has resulted in a successful handbag line.

Photo Credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

On the runway, we saw an array of structured clutches in patent and suede, navy accordion topped handbags, and large totes to be worn under one’s arm.

She seamlessly incorporated the accessories into the looks and each style felt complementary to the clothing. Her thoughtful styling added an additional layer of luxury to the collection.

Hearst did not limit herself to using leather in just handbags, but also incorporated it into belts,necklaces, and a stunning navy leather dress that was sewn in strips with alternating sheer panels.

With the sheer paneling, the leather dress felt light and airy, which is a very difficult result to achieve when working with a material best known for its weight.

Hearst yet again proved that if something is worth doing, it is worth doing it right.

This cohesive collection is not only luxurious, but functional. Hearst has been nicknamed the “American Hermes” by Vogue’s Nicole Phelps, yet her collection proves to be both aspirational and attainable. Hearst defined her target customer and is giving her items that will compliment each other, yet can be worn separate.

With a growing fan base, Hearst continues to expand her collections, which will include jewelry in her soon-to-open Madison Avenue flagship store. We can only expect to see more innovation and precision with each coming season. Hearst has all of us on the edge of our seats, waiting to see what else she has up her perfectly-tailored sleeve.

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COLLECTION REVIEWS: SPRING 2019

Photo Credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD 12

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SPRING 2019 GABRIELA HEARST

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COLLECTION REVIEWS: SPRING 2019

Photo Credit: David Urbanke/ Village Voice

Craftsmanship is Key at Ulla Johnson’s Latest Show

The Herero Tribe Inspires the Spring 2019 Collection Backstage at Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2019 collection, stylists added finishing touches to the models who were prepped with dewy skin finishes, defined brows and natural red hued lips. The New York native founded her eponymous line in 2000, but this is only Johnson’s seventh fashion week presentation. Her decision to host a runway show this season proved to be the right choice.

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Photo Credit: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv Photo Credit: David Urbanke/ Village Voice

COLLECTION REVIEWS: SPRING 2019

African

music echoed through the large room, as models emerged, weaving between pillars on the sand colored granite tile floor. Johnson is known for her bohemian and ethereal style, so watching as model after model emerged in distinctly African-inspired looks with a bohemian twist was a breath of fresh air.

She stayed true to her rustic style, yet embraced new colors, textures, and techniques borrowed from the Herero of Namibia and Maasai tribe of Kenya.

She also drew inspiration from Gee’s Bend, an African-American community based in Alabama, who are known for turning old scraps of fabric into intricate quilts.

Craftsmanship was the theme of this show and Johnson did not disappoint.

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Darker hues for Spring started off the show, with a combination of Johnson’s signature ditsy florals and intricately woven raffia. Her use of this material paid homage to the Herero tribe and demonstrated the way a material not typically used in fashion can be integrated into a cohesive collection. Paired with Victori an-inspired blouses with billowing sleeves, the juxtaposition of fabrics created a sense of strength that at times is hidden in Johnson’s soft image.

As the show continued, the looks became more elaborate and technical,validating Johnson’s extensive research on the Herero tribe.

Beautifully knitted dresses with elaborate African-inspired patterns are woven in vibrant red and jet black against pure white backdrops.

These patterned looks had three-dimensional details at the shoulder that were a more structured version of Johnson’s signature ruffles.

The emboldened knits are paired back with delicate lacy Victorian tops, effortlessly weaving together the designer’s trademark styles and the vibrancy of pre-colonial African tribes.

Following the intricate knitwear, Johnson continued her exploration of varied techniques by incorporating batik-style patchwork into structured jackets and blouson tops. Inspired by the isolated African-American community, Gee’s Bend, which hails from Alabama, Johnson used an array of fabrics to patch together swaths of material.

Quilting can at times appear campy, but Johnson elevates the technique with architectural shapes.

While modernity rang through each phase of the show, the final looks brought the inspiration

of the 19th century Herero tribe to the 21st century. Pops of bold blue, red, and yellow hues paired with metallic lame added a punch of color that isn’t normally seen from Johnson, but she managed to combine the colors, textures, and patterns in a way that still resonated her name.

A deep, ruffled v-neck gown was to be expected in her collection, but the powerful Turmeric hue and gold metallic overlay showed a depth to her artistry we have all been waiting for.

We all know Ulla Johnson for her whimsical designs, but this ingenious African-inspired collection has lifted her to a new level, proving the power of femininity.

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Photo Credit: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv 18

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SPRING 2019 ULLA JOHNSON

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Photo Credit: Krista Lewis

COLLECTION REVIEWS: SPRING 2019

Maryam Nassir Zadeh Follows Her Own Path Swimwear as Everyday Clothes New York City’s cult favorite retailer cum designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh presented an eclectic mix of separates that stayed true to her modus operandi of playing by her own rules. Zadeh is never one to stay on fashion’s straight and narrow path, but rather chooses to design based on her and her friends’ lives.

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COLLECTION REVIEWS: SPRING 2019

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native New Yorker, Zadeh spent most of her summer hopping from one Mediterranean coast to another, in looks that were both put together and effortlessly cool.

Zadeh paired many bandeau swim tops with circle skirts in colors that complimented the terrain of whatever country she was in, whether her backdrop be the crystal-clear blue waters of Greece, or the terracotta walls of Spain. Zadeh’s summer style clearly translated into her most recent show presented during New York’s Fashion Week.

Models of all ages, ethnicities, and body types flanked the runway in a variety of colors, prints, and daring silhouettes.

The biker short trend for Spring was present, but was styled in an unexpectedly feminine 22

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way, as opposed to the sporty vibe that has saturated the market. Zadeh chose to tone down the literalism of the biker short by pairing the bottoms with a delicately crocheted maillot and glittery heels. She brought a feminine touch to the otherwise functional garment.

Aside from the biker short, Zadeh veered away from the tried and true Spring trends and made her own by utilizing swimwear as ready to wear and by pairing unexpected items with otherwise classic pieces.

She drew inspiration from her own closet by pairing swim bandeaus with colorful tiered prairie skirts and by layering a bold yellow crochet halter top over a muted ribbed knit button-down cardigan-skirt set.

Photo Credit: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv

Zadeh isn’t one to shy away from print, so a variety of florals, plaids, and a daring zebra print were mixed in with pops of blues, reds, and fluorescent greens to create a story that is reminiscent of Zadeh’s own eclectic style.

As mentioned, Zadeh finds inspiration in her friends and colleagues, many of whom walked the show in her designs.

Fashion designer and artist, Susan Cianciolo graced the runway in a leopard print maillot, layered with a corset and topped with a signature trench coat - yet another nontraditional way to incorporate swimwear into one’s everyday wardrobe.

Viceland host, Hailey Benton Gates wore Zadeh’s summer style tango red tiered skirt with a black crop top, styled with neon yellow heels and a lace-up-the-arm pouch.

Each look was distinctly Zadeh and styled with bags, jewelry, and belts that never felt out of place, because after all, what’s more Zadeh than a yellow rope belt paired with a floral dress with a swim top layered over it?

The show couldn’t have ended without a surprise element, from which Zadeh didn’t shy away.

A model in a tiny zebra striped bikini, flanked in magenta leis, strutted down the runway to close the show - a nonconventional look that sets Zadeh apart from her peers and solidifies her standing as New York’s “cool girl” designer.

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Photo Credit: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv 24

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SPRING 2019 Maryam Nassir Zadeh

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CULTURE & ARTS

SEATTLE HERO PAUL ALLEN LEAVES BEHIND A VIVID LEGACY

PAUL ALLEN 1953-2018 26

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Photo Credit: Beatrice De Gea/ NYT

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CULTURE & ARTS

Photo Credit: Erik Burg/ Seattle Art Museum

Photo Credit: Ken Lambert/The Seattle Times

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My mom quickly snapped the n Monday October 15, picture and I was mortified as I have Seattle lost its cornerstone and never been much of a rule breaker. pillar of culture, Paul Allen who died at age 65 from septic shock, as a Later that day I researched the result of non--Hodgkin’s Lymphoma. sculpture and it turns out it is owned Allen most notably known as the

by Paul Allen and is part of the Paul co-founder of Microsoft leaves a G. Allen Family Collection. While the monolithic legacy behind. sculpture is now located at Seattle Center this was really the first time I After hearing of the news, I thought back researched Paul Allen. At the time I to 2010. During my high school years, knew what most people know, Allen I took my first art class at a community co-founded Microsoft with childhood college. There was one assignment friend Bill Gates. Ironic to think that that I will never forget from both the learning experience and partly from shear he would purchase an art piece that embarrassment. We were to find a local he and Gates made irrelevant by way sculpture take a picture in front of it, discuss of computers replacing typewriters. it in terms of concepts used and provide a In 2015 Allen, an avid art collector whose history. Pretty straightforward. personal collection included old masters, During a trip to Seattle with my parents I visited impressionists and modern art from Renior the Olympic Sculpture Park and found a large to Rothko, established the Seattle Art Fair, and captivating sculpture. My mom explained the first and only major art fair in the Pacific that it was a typewriter eraser, something I’ve Northwest. The fair brought in artists like never seen before thanks to technology. The David Zwirner, Gagosian and Pace in its sculpture sat on a busy street and on a slight first year. Allen also commissioned pieces grassy hill with an knee height fence surrounding by local artists, like the typewriter eraser. the sculpture park.

I proceeded to stand near the sculpture from the sidewalk as my mom took the picture. She kept telling me to cross the fence to get closer in order for her to get everything in the shot. I was very reluctant and for a good reason because the second I crossed the fence a speaker started blasting saying, “Get off the grass now, , you are being videotaped!”

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“If I can give people a little bit of that experience and open their eyes to the different possibilities of painting and sculpture and other forms of art, that would be a fantastic outcome.”

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Allen said in the 2015 interview. “If MoPOP wasn’t Allen’s museum.

He I can give people a little bit of that only experience and open their eyes to the also started the Flying different possibilities of painting and Heritage & Combat Armor at Boeing’s sculpture and other forms of art, that Museum Paine Field in Everett, would be a fantastic outcome.”

Washington. The museum In 2000, Allen founded the Experience houses Allen’s collection of Music Project, Science Fiction Museum rare military aircraft, tanks and Hall of Fame, now known as the and other military gear from Museum of Pop Culture. The museum the United States, Germany, sits at the base of the Space Needle at Japan, Russia and the UK. Seattle Center and was designed by Frank Gehry.

‘If it has the potential

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to do good, then we

This museum blended Allen’s love of art should do it.’ with his love of music. The museum pays tribute with various exhibits dedicated to regalia from Seattle’s greatest artists and Allen invested so much in various bands including Nirvana, Jimi Hendrix culture projects that as of 2017 Allen and even more recently Chris Cornell of expanded his portfolio with Vulcan Soundgarden. MoPoP also partners with Arts and Entertainment. Its mission the Seattle International Film Festival and states that it is “guided by Paul G. the Science Fiction and Fantasy Short Allen’s vision of investing in the region’s Film Festival that takes place annually at cultural fabric so that new generations can explore and realize their true creative Seattle’s Cinerama Theater. potential.”

When the Cinerama Theater downtown was faced with redevelopment in 1997, After his death many who were close to Allen swooped in and saved the Cinerama him spoke out starting with Bill Gates who from becoming a dinner theater or rock- wrote in a statement, “I am heartbroken climbing club. As a child Allen would go by the passing of one of my oldest and to the Cinerama to see science fiction dearest friends, Paul Allen. Paul was a true films like Star Wars. After purchasing the partner and dear friend. Personal computing theater Allen initiated a multimillion-dollar would not have existed without him. But Paul restoration and the Cinerama is still in use wasn’t content with starting one company. He channeled his intellect and compassion into a today to air classic and select new movies.

Allen also started the Upstream three-day second act focused on improving people’s lives music summit, modeled after Austin’s South and strengthening communities in Seattle and

by Southwest to give local musicians an around the world. outlet to share their music in Seattle’s Pioneer Square neighborhood 30

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Photo Credit: Julien Michel

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Photo Credit: Gatenotes.com

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CULTURE & ARTS

“I am heartbroken by the passing of one of my oldest and dearest friends, Paul Allen.

Paul was a true partner and dear friend.

Personal computing would not have existed without him. But Paul wasn’t content with starting one company. He channeled his intellect and compassion into a second act focused on improving people’s lives and strengthening communities in Seattle and around the world. He was fond of saying, ‘If it has the potential to do good, then we should do it.’ That’s the kind of person he was. He deserved much more time, but his contributions to the world of technology and philanthropy will live on for generations to come. I will miss him tremendously.”

-BILL GATES

Allen was fond of saying, ‘If it has the potential to do good, then we should do it.’ That’s the kind of person he was. He deserved much more time, but his contributions to the world of technology and philanthropy will ive on for generations to come. I will miss him tremendously.”

During high school, Allen and Gates would spend hours at the University of Washington Computer Science Laboratory researching and programming. They spent so much time there they were banned several times and reduced to sneaking in. In October 2003, after donating $40 million to the university, the building was dedicated to Allen and renamed the Paul G. Allen Center for Computer Science and Engineering.

Allen dropped out of Washington State University in Pullman, Washington to help co-found Microsoft in New Mexico, before moving the company to Bellevue, Washington and finally to its current home in Redmond, Washington. Allen was only with the company for a short time, long enough to make him a multi-billionaire, before resigning as executive vice president of research and new product development in 1983 after being diagnosed with Hodgkin’s lymphoma.

In 1983 Allen and his sister Jody started his privately held company Vulcan, Inc. which not only manages his estate and philanthropic ventures, but also an umbrella company including Vulcan Real Estate and Vulcan Capital.

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Photo Credit Alan Berner / The Seattle Times

Vulcan Real Estate is responsible for the redevelopment of South Lake Union which currently houses several innovative tech, healthcare, aerospace, and fashion businesses.

Since 2002, nearly $5.7 billion has been invested in the neighborhood from urban development to public infrastructure including the South Lake Union Streetcar which the company advocated for in 2007.

The City of Seattle has not always agreed with Allen and his company, as the streetcar venture was fraught with backlash because it was seen as a city-supported real estate investment for Vulcan, Inc. and caused a loss of low-income housing.

According to a 2012 article from the Wall Street Journal, Allen’s investment in South Lake Union proved “unexpectedly lucrative” since Amazon bought a 1.8 million square foot office complex, its current headquarters, in one of Allen’s buildings along Mercer Street for $1.16 billion. This is said to be Seattle’s most expensive office deals ever.

In 1996, Seattle Seahawks owner Ken Behring announced he was moving the team to Anaheim, California. Those plans were halted by a $500,000 a day fine by the National Football League (NFL). Paul Allen was approached by King County councilman Pete von Reichbauer to buy the Seahawks in order to keep the team in Seattle.

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CULTURE & ARTS Allen was the one of the few financially able people that could pull off this last-minute hail Mary to save Seattle’s beloved football team.

Allen was not keen on an NFL ownership despite attending University of Washington football games every year with his librarian father Kenneth. von Reichbauer convinced Allen to buy the team contingent on a public approved and publicly funded new stadium.

The vote ended up being a close call. von Reichbauer states that he received a call from Allen thanking him for the opportunity the night the votes came rolling in. von Reichbauer replied saying, “Don’t thank me.

You’re giving up not only your money, but something you prize more: Your privacy.” Paul Allen has always remained a private man in spite of his fortune and various ventures.

The stadium rebuild was very controversial, not even twenty-four hours after the news of his death broke, Seattle city councilwoman Kshama Sawant blasted Allen on Facebook in a post that said, “Paul Allen was known as a philanthropist. He spent $250 million on the biggest yacht in the world in 2003; he also owned two more yachts and a fleet of private jets, several sports teams. He paid to put the Qwest Field on the ballot so that the working people picked up most of the $425 million tab. He spent half a million dollars to defeat the I-1098 Tax the Rich statewide initiative in 2010.”

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However, the Seattle Seahawks weren’t his only professional sports endeavor. In 1988 at the age of 35 Allen bought the Portland Trail Blazers for $70 million. He was the youngest owner of a Big Four professional sports team.

These projects, investments and donations don’t even begin to scratch the surface to tell the story and legacy of this complex, but polymath man who forever altered our community. Allen and Gates truly saw the future and created it. The world is a very different place due to personal computers.

Technology would not be where it is today if Allen did not risk everything to drop out of college and convince Gates to do the same, in order to pursue Microsoft. The Seattle community and world in general is a better place because of Allen’s contributions that we have all benefited from.

As Gates mentioned in his statement, Allen is more than just Microsoft’s co-founder. Allen donated over $2 billion over the span of a couple decades. A true renaissance man, whose legacy cannot be easily defined when his accomplishments and accolades are so far reaching. Allen after leaving Microsoft, invested in his interests spanning from conservation, aerospace, music to arts and sports. Allen was a cornerstone of Seattle, he reinvented the South Lake Union skyline.

Seattle would not be the culture-tech hub it is today without Allen’s immense contributions.

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Photo Credit: Bettina Hansen / The Seattle Times

OP-ED

THE FUTURE OF FASHION RESTS WITH TECHNOLOGY Today technology is our biggest asset and liability.

If technology via the internet crashes the economy will be defunct. The truth is that technology has its many faults with threats of cyber attacks, but can it also be our saving grace?

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Vasteras Power Plant by Lloyd Alter/CC BY 2.0

OP-ED

While many claim that a total collapse is nearly impossible because of the multiple servers and collection of networks that the internet lives on, internet pioneer Danny Hillis argues that it is entirely possible. He states, “It can crash since, it was not built for its current large-scale use.” Not to mention cyberterrorism is on the rise, thus the internet could be manipulated as a form of attack on the United States by outside forces. A cyberattack that takes down the nation’s system would halt everything and bring the U.S. to its knees.

Technology, while still in its youth in some ways has sparked an esoteric revolution in the fashion industry. Technology has changed our lives in many ways. We have technology all over our homes, it has seeped into every aspect of life and business. Almost everything in life relies on technology and the internet.

To me, this is almost a scary sentiment, in light of many data breaches like Experian to the Cambridge Analytica data mining scandal. It has many Americans thinking about privacy and why we give up as much information as we do online, where it is most vulnerable. If or when this happens people won’t be buying fashions. They’ll be focused on survival.

Nobody is safe, even the upper echelon will be wiped out because the financial world lives on technology, unless they stockpiled gold bars. It would be worse than the 40

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last recession and far worse than the Great Depression of the 1930s. Not to mention majority of the population gets their fashion news, inspiration and ultimately buys fashion via the internet.

The cutting edge is crucial in the fashion industry. Living in one of the nation’s concentrated tech hubs makes me realize the fact that tech is so far reaching.

Will tech save fashion? While technology has its vulnerabilities, tech has made great strides to solve the fashion world’s biggest and most pressing issue; sustainability. A monumental and overwhelming issue with many facets to it from the production process, labor practices,end-use to the eventual textile landfill waste.

“Fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world after oil.”

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, 15.1 billion tons of textile waste is produced per year, with fast fashion being the largest contributor.

H&M, the second leading fast fashion company after Zara/Inditex, produces at the rate of 600 million garments per year with 52 micro seasons. Danish TV’s Operation X accused H&M of burning 12 tonnes of unsold garments per year since 2013 in Demark alone, which the company denied.

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Photo Credit: The Design Studio

OP-ED H&M has stated that it is replacing coal at the Vasteras power plant north of Stockholm.

“In March, H&M announced that the stockpile of unsold stock had grown 7% from last year and is worth nearly $4.3 billion.”

H&M is not the only business to face criticism over resource absorbing supply chains and contributing to the swells of clothing in landfills. However, technology is what enabled fast fashion and has accelerated growth in the fashion industry.

Seattle-based startup Evrnu is attacking the issue of textile waste with its new patent pending technology that takes old clothing and creates new fibers for new clothing.

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Photo Credit: Bionic Yarn

Another fashion technology startup Bionic Yarn is creating denim from plastic found polluting the ocean. They have partnered with brands like Kheil’s, G-Star and Pharrell Williams to introduce their new technology and vision.

The future of fashion has always been tech, since its inception. I can hardly remember the time before e-commerce or social media apps that connect us and help disseminate fashion to the masses. I think it is quite possible that history will repeat itself with another economic breakdown, but I think there is so much technology can offer the fashion industry.

While tech companies that tackle fashion’s sustainability issues are not new, it’s time for them to ramp up their businesses in order to instill large scale change. Technology still has more to do when it comes to fashion and it is not slowing down by any means.

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Self Portrait: Kristina Varaksina

KR ISTINA V AR A KSINA Renowned Photographer Invites Us Into Her Surreal World

Russian-born, award-winning photographer Kristina Varaksina creates an etheareal world that dreams are made of, akin to stills from a movie. Varaksina’s technique blends in the pshyche and brings perspective to current social issues that have rocked our society.

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Photo Credit: Kristina Varaksina

FEATURE

Award winning photographer and creative genius Kristina Varaksina sits soft spoken in her cozy Park Slope, Brooklyn apartment as I Facetime her. The hygge meets urban minimalism design of her apartment in the background proves her love of interior design.

As she starts to explain her background, she states, “I started my art career by studying interior and graphic design at Ural State Academy of Architecture and Arts in my hometown of Yekaterinburg, Russia.”

When asked why she jumped into photography she states, “I eventually realized that I prefer field work over office jobs; creating something immediately with my own hands gives me the most satisfaction.”

Varaksina moved to San Francisco, California on New Year’s Eve in 2010 to pursue her Master of Fine Arts degree in photography at Academy of Art University. Varaksina has been practicing photography for over sixteen years but has done so professionally for six years since graduating.

“Simultaneously I was working part time as a graphic designer,” she elaborates, “after I graduated, I began as an art director at a small advertising agency and worked my way up to an art director at Y&R Russia in Moscow.”

Her favorite piece she states is “A special one, “I’ve always been very I did many years ago intrigued with human when I just started the photography pshycology and it helps MFA program, I shot me tell stories through a self-portrait with a typewriter” which won portraits.” first prize in Academy of Arts yearly Spring Show The 37-year-old was born competition. Varaksina in Russia. “Growing up in Russia, or Soviet claims, “It gave me a confidence boost Union back then, I read a lot of books because and helped me really find my style.” She we didn’t have much happening on TV,” describes her style as “ethereal, feminist and she professes, “so I think that developed my in touch with human emotion.” “I’ve always imagination because images were appearing in been very intrigued with human psychology my head as opposed to appearing on screen.” and it helps me tell stories through portraits.”

Her background has had an immense impact on her perspective and work. “I also think that I looked up to many Russian women in my life who are incredibly strong, and I have several series in my personal work exploring female subjects.”

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Her highly sensitive and emotive photos often feature female subjects daintily posed.

“I’m proud of my personal projects that raise awareness on different issues.” Her series ‘She Is in High School’ which was published in Vogue feature young women with

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Photo Credit: Kristina Varaksina melancholic facial expressions that intrigue and cast their psyche into the spotlight. “In this series, I portray the experiences of being a woman in modern society and of growing up as a girl, with all kinds of demands and social standards.”

“For centuries our world has been male centered. I think in the 20th and the 21st century the perception of what a woman is, and what role she plays has undergone unprecedented changes.” Women and children are a mainstay in her work and continue to be the central subjects. “However, there’s still a big presence of male gaze in modern visual culture, my goal is to offer an alternative view.” Very little of her work features men, one titled ‘Boys’ Games’ is a photo series about men who never grew up.

“There’s still a big presence of male gaze in modern visual culture, my goal is to offer an alternative view.”

A surreal photograph from the series includes a man in a yellow slicker and rain boots staring at a crashed prop plane. According to Varaksina, “It is about men who keep playing games, some of which are harmless, while others are quite dangerous.”

These allegoric photographs come to life with her meticulous attention to lighting and soft color palette. “I have a painting background, so I like carefully controlled color palettes and soft, painterly transitions from light to shadow.” Varaksina works out her photos in advanced through detailed sketching. “I pay a lot of attention to set design and prop styling, this is where my interior design degree definitely comes in handy.”

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Photo Credit: Kristina Varaksina

FEATURE Varaksina pulls ideas from many different places, “sometimes it is something I’ve been dreaming about for years, other times it is inspired by my client’s personality or a product.” Varaksina also cites Swedish and French films and artists like Balthus and Hammershoi as sources of inspiration.

Varaksina declares she gets many ideas from watching films, reading books and learning more about people.

a “Canon 5D Mark III in combination with a Canon 85mm f/1.2 lens.”

Not only does Varaksina work with high profile brands and companies, but she is also a photography instructor at The New York Film Academy. She has been working there for two years, helping students realize their full potential.

NYFA’s Photography School Chair, David “It’s not necessarily a direct interpretation of Mager states, “Kristina never fails to amaze, she what I saw or read, but it triggers something has the incredible ability to teach the technical in me, something that maybe has been in side, while being unbelievably creative.” Mager the back of my mind for a while.” Varaksina added, “Students always mentions, “I get my ideas walk away with new “Kristina never from life around me, when knowledge that is easily I talk to people or see fails to amaze, she implemented in their own someone; something I see has the incredible photographic practice.” makes me think of a certain subject and then I start ability to teach the Varaksina works in both, thinking of how to visualize technical side, while fine art and commercial it.” photography fields. “I’ve

being unbelievably creative.”

Varaksina typically works in a photography studio complete with lighting gear and different backdrops, but “sometimes we also build sets in a studio or shoot on location both indoor and outdoor, in the world.”

According to Varaksina, “Lighting is the god of photography,” she continues, “it depends on what and where you photograph, but it can completely change the mood.” Post production is the key to how she achieves her particular look in which she uses a Wacom tablet. Varaksina cshoots with 50

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always considered myself a portrait photographer over fashion photographer even though a large portion of my work is for fashion brands and magazines.”

Varaksina’s work has been published in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Hooligan’s Magazine, Fantastics Magazine and many other lookbooks for luxury brands. “I love to be involved with brands, companies and organizations that change the world be it saving lives, protecting people, nature or just being responsible with labor and resources.”

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Photo Credit: Kristina Varaksina

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FEATURE

Varaskina Teaching at New York Film Acadmey

Varaksina has received multiple prestigious awards in photography, from established and respected publications and organizations such as Communication Arts, CMYK, Digital Photo Pro, Creatives Quarterly, and more.

“Through my photography, I make realities that don’t exist. They look surreal, but still believable, so I can live through those moments I create in my pictures.” Her work is represented by galleries in San Francisco, Nashville, Germany and Paris.

Her shots are like stills from a movie, powerfully executed, but carefully constructed to kindle the viewer’s own imagination. Varaksina’s latest work is a beauty editorial titled “Dark Motifs” which is featured in Harper’s Bazaar Ukraine. It features a mix between minimal makeup and daring, almost Avant Garde eyelashes on a model with a short black bob.

Varaksina is not slowing down but is actually looking to add to her ever expanding portfolio. “I’d like to direct more, create more videos and possibly produce short films.” She declares she is always looking for a new creative outlet, “I want to create so many different images, I have many projects in the works at different stages and I want to be able to share my imagination with the world.”

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Photo Credit: Kelli Braun

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