Pierre Cardin Brand Book

Pierre

Cardin

“The clothes I prefer, I invent them for a life that doesn’t exist yet.”

CHAPTER 1

introduction

1960 was the decade of space exploration. Sparking the vivid imagining of what the future would look like and what we would look like if we got to the moon. Pierre Cardin decided to answer that question himself. Saying “ the clothes I prefer I invent them for a life that doesn’t exist yet. The world of tomorrow,” with a bold and daring vision. He stripped away from the 1950s fashion. Paving the way for the fashion revolution of 1960. Throughout the 60s his designs became more contemporary and unusual.

His experimentation of new material like plastic, silver vinyl, industrial zippers and metal jewelry was ground parking and disrupted all rules of fashion. His aesthetics were futuristic and uniform like. He closely watched what happened with American astronauts and created a fashion that absolutely captured the space age. Cardin’s defining collection came in 1964 which was his unisex

Geometric shapes, aline silhouettes, mini skirts and bright colors created futuristic assemblies that appealed to the youth market. The collection had colorless and crew neck tops that spiked with asymmetrical zippers as well as jumpsuits and unitards that were foundational garments used by both sexes. Cardin’s collection had sleek forward fashion that resolved gender distinction. Pierre Cardin visited Nasa’s headquarters in Huston for inspiration, becoming the only civilian wearing a real nasal space suit. Cardin’s space designs become more scientific and more influenced by reality than fantasy.

Pierre Cardin’s space age collection gave people a glimpse of what they could potentially wear when traveling to outer space. His influence was so monumental that Pierre Cardin was featured on one episode of the Jetsons cartoon as Pierre Martian. The dress was a 1967 rope ROBES ELECTRONIQUES covered with blinking LED embroidery. The designer said, “I imagine dresses made of crystals and fashion lights.” Pierre Cardin also developed the first line of clothing for men made by a couturier and was credited for starting a revolution in menswear. The magazine Vogue stated that “the styles that Cardin describes as sexy plus elegant que kicky…very young, the shapes picks up a man and gives him height and youth.”

Cardin opened his first men’s shop in 1957, which was a companion to his “Eve” boutique, and called it “Adam.”. When Adam showed the first men’s collection he did so with a cast entirely made up of students from the universe of Paris. The signature piece of the collection was the Cylinder jacket. Which was a re-interpretation of the traditional sports coat. Cardin removed the lapel, relaxed and arrowed the shoulders and aban-

PIERRE CARDIN

doned the usual two or three buttons for a five button design. Forbs magazine reported in October 1968 that Pierre Cardin was the exciting new fabric everyone is talking about. Wash and pack and it won’t crush and never lose its shape. He used early technological material that could be heat treated to hold its shapes and designs. He incorporated it into his best selling cosmo core collection and used it to make his famous 1968 egg carton dress. At the time when other Parisienne’s labels were obsessed with flattering the female form, Pierre Cardin designs showcased the clothes’ sharp shapes and graphic patterns. In 1973 Pierre Cardin was one of the five designers chosen alongside YSL, GIVENCHY, Dior and Emanuele Ungaro to represent France at the battle of Versailles fashion show held at the French palace on the eve night of November.

Born in Italy of French parents on 2 July 1922, the designer was originally named Pietro Cardini. After several years in Venice, however, his family relocated to France. As a young man Cardin briefly studied architecture before joining the house of Paquin in 1945. His tenure there gave him the opportunity of working with Christian Bérard and Jean Cocteau on the 1946 film La Belle et la bête, for which he created the velvet costume for the Beast, played by Jean Marais. After a brief stint with Elsa Schiaparelli, Cardin worked under the auspices of Christian Dior from 1946 until he went out on his own in 1950. Cardin honed his superb tailoring skills heading up Dior’s coat and suit workroom. Cardin’s own business was first located on the rue Richepanse (renamed rue du Chevalier de Saint-George), but later moved to the famed rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where the designer launched his first couture collection in 1953. In 1954 Cardin opened a boutique called Eve, followed by Adam for men in 1957.

From the beginning, Cardin showed himself to be an innovator and a rebel. He was quoted as saying, “For me, the fabric is nearly secondary. I believe first in shape, architecture, the geometry of a dress” (Lobenthal, p. 151). His experimentation with fabrics embraced geometric abstraction without losing sight of the human figure.

Advances in fabric production and technology during the 1960s coincided with a widespread fascination with space exploration. Cardin’s Space Age or Cosmocorps collection of 1964 synthesized his streamlined, minimal dressing for both men and women. This body-skimming apparel resembling uniforms featured cutouts inspired by op art. Cardin was innovative in his use of vinyl and metal in combination with wool fabric. Not just unisex, Cardin’s clothing often seemed asexual. Unlike such other fashion minimalists as Rudi Gernreich and André Courrèges, Cardin did not promote pants for women. He often used monotone-colored stockings or white patterned tights to compliment his minidresses. The “Long Longuette,” which was dubbed the maxidress, was Cardin’s 1970 response to the miniskirt. In 1971, Cardin obtained an exclusive agreement with a German firm to use its stretch fabric, declaring that “stretch fabrics would revolutionize fashion”. Continuing his reputation as a trendsetter, he showed white cotton T-shirts paired with couture gowns on the runway in 1974 and introduced exaggerated shoulders in 1979.

A WORLD OF TOMORROW

Desgin for a life a that doesn’t exist yet

Drive fashion that resolves gender distinction

Mission

Values

Technological scientific advances

CHAPTER 2

bauhaus movement

Bauhaus style appeared along with a foundation of namesake Weimar school in 1919 that united crafts and the fine arts. Fashion started to explore this style already in 20 century when Yves Saint Laurent created collection entitled ‘Modrian’ in 1965.

It featured combined color-blocking basic hues on dresses. In today’s ready to wear lookbooks and runway shows this trend appears almost in every collection. I personally love the compound of basic geometric figures (triangles, squares, circles) in various colors. In other words, every renowned brand used the touches of this trend. As it appears as a print on a coat, jacket and dress. Some of the circled looks remind me of huge polka dots. The influence of this movement is felt today.

We see Bauhaus inspired interiors and furniture designs that influence lots of designers to make geometric shapes and unique wardrobe looks. Anyway, if you like wearing graphical shapes, various materials and color combinations, then you are more than welcomed to try on these designs:

LEGACY

CHAPTER 3 CHAPTER 3

target audience

TARGET AUDIENCE

The target audience of Pierre Cardin were those who were fashion conscious and future forward. They were mainly from the baby boomer generation and were men and women who were from an urban upper class who needed formal wea The target audience of Pierre Cardin were those who were fashion conscious and future forward. They were mainly from the baby boomer generation and were men and women who were from an urban upper class who needed formal wear. They were those who were fashion conscious and future forward. They were mainly from the baby boomer generation and were men and women who were from an urban upper class who needed formal wear.

CHAPTER 4

business development

Futuristic rebel

Novel expressor

tHe WorlD oF toMorroW

as

advertising

Not

much

compared to competitors Has too many licenses; is losing focus on strongest elements of brand

Product substitution is easily available Increasing competition

CHAPTER 5

communication

Hiroko Matsumoto

Whether model and actress Hiroko Matsumoto stepped out onto a runway or a film set, her star power was always immediately evident. First invited into the limelight by French designer Pierre Cardin, Matsumoto created iconic images as his longtime beloved muse. Yet, as the first Japanese model of French couture, she also carved out a space for Asian women to find professional success in the western fashion and film worlds, carving a space in the industry for women like China Machado (who, when she appeared on the February 1959 issue of Harper’s Bazaar, was the first non-Caucasian woman to appear on the cover of an American fashion magazine). Today, we remember the striking woman, known among her peers as Miss Hiroko, who found success abroad as a visual storyteller while also overturning the stereotype of the passive muse in the process.

Defining Features. An undercurrent of theatricality and ‘plain old fun’ defined Matsumoto’s look. With her penchant for the blunt bangs and short dresses characteristic of the 1960s Mod aesthetic, Matsumoto gravitated toward extremes in her everyday wardrobe. From white fur and polka dots to oversized buttons and miniskirts, she unapologetically experimented with volume and excess.

Matsumoto also maintained an undeniable grace throughout her modeling career. In one particularly memorable editorial for British Vogue in March 1969, entitled White Flight of Fancy and shot by London-based international photographer Clive Arrowsmith, Matsumoto struck elegant poses in the presence of white doves. She was dressed in all-white ensembles, from fringed tops, to pleated skirts and wide-leg pants, and her slicked-back hair was further enhanced by an abundance of plumes.

Whether draped in pearls and a ‘chat noir’ dress from Yves Saint Laurent’s years as head designer for Dior, posing for a portrait by Cardin in feathered hat and fur-trimmed scarf, or donning more traditional Geisha-inspired ensembles for a François Truffaut film, Matsumoto’s sartorial claim to fame lay in her chameleon-like ability to transform whenever the camera turned her way.

Seminal Moments. Hiroko Matsumoto entered the limelight in 1960, after her world collided with that of Pierre Cardin. During a trip to Japan in 1957, the then up-and-coming French designer fell in love at

first sight upon meeting Matsumoto, and eventually invited the striking Tokyo native to Paris to model his new collection. She served as his go-to muse for much of the 1960s, while also modeling for Vogue, having her portrait taken by legendary photographers including Irving Penn and Helmut Newton, and briefly serving as the face of Nina Ricci.

When her whirlwind modeling career in 1967 ended, Matsumoto briefly tried her hand at acting. 1970 found her cast as a Japanese tourist-turned-mistress to Antoine Doinel in François Truffaut’s Bed and Board (or Domicile Conjugal). In the film, Matsumoto donned a custom-designed wardrobe by Hanae Mori, the storied Japanese designer, and coincidentally, the first Asian woman to be admitted by France’s Fédération Francaise de la Couture as an official haute couture design house. 1967 also marked Matsumoto’s marriage to the president of the Pierre Cardin group, Henry Berghauer, who would later serve as the head of Hanae Mori and Hervé Leger.

Following the birth of her child with the manager of French pharmaceutical company Roussel Uclaf, Jean-Claude Cathalan, who she married a few years after her marriage with Berghauer dissipated, Matsumoto faced a personal trauma. Her nearly two-year-old daughter Maxime Cathalan was kidnapped in Neuilly-sur-Seine, and only returned after a ransom of 1.5 million Francs was paid in June 1975. During this time, Matsumoto took a step away from the public eye to focus on motherhood. She maintained a career as a fashion magazine editor alongside other passion projects before passing away, most likely from health complications, in Paris at age 67.

She’s an other woman because while Cardin may have popularised and publicised Matsumoto, she fully owned every minute of her moment in the spotlight. As the first Japanese woman to model French high fashion, Matsumoto carved out a path for women who did not necessarily fit the mold for couture at the time and, in doing so, left behind a blueprint for how to diversify the runway in the years to come. Her willingness to explore unprecedented professional opportunities beyond the boundaries of stereotype, along with her perpetual sense of play and experimentation in her wardrobe choices, undoubtedly makes Matsumoto the an other woman.

The Iconic Face of Pierre Cardin

OWNED MEDIA

Pierre Cardin currently has its own Instagram and Facebook pages as well as a website. The Instagram page has 44.8K followers and posts about what is going on in the world of Pierre, which is not much, but there are a few things happening. The first post on the account was January 1, 2022 and since then, 100 images and videos have been posted. The posts are mainly about the two fashion shows that took place this year, Cent and COSMOCORPS3022, as well as the “world tour” that the brand is on right now. There are no current stores open or products for sale, they have just been showcasing archive pieces as well as new sustainable pieces by Pierre Cardin’s nephew, Rodrigo Basilicati, who is currently running the brand. The Facebook account posts the same things as the Instagram account.

The Social Media of Pierre Cardin is measured at 42.8K engagement, 4.3M potential reach and 44.8K followers. Over the past year, the followers on Instagram have grown 4.72%. The most popular post was published on July 7, 2022 and was a carousel of images on the Cent fashion show. It received 1.3k likes and 25 comments. The account is not super active, as it has only posted 100 posts since January 1, 2022. The page has 42K likes and 779 comments total, which averages 420 likes per post and a little under 8 comments per post.The audience is not very engaged with the Instagram account, with an average of 2.4% of them being engaged. The top themes associated with the Instagram ac-

count and the audience are the two fashion shows, Cent and COSMOCOPRS3022, as well as the following hashtags: #PierreCardin100, #CardinCollection2022, #PierreCardin, #PierreCardinCent,and #dressedbycardin. The sentiment surrounding the Instagram is fairly good with 58.6% being neutral and 41.4% being positive and 0% being negative. The most positive posts were about the COSMOCORPS3022 runway show. The website of Pierre Cardin has more historical images than the Instagram and Facebook pages. It has a page titled, “world,”which includes images of past fashion shows, perfumes, furniture, sunglasses, design, watches and jewelry. It also has a full timeline of the history of Pierre Cardin that briefly discusses the most important fashion shows, products, and milestones the brand has accomplished. Pierre Cardin’s current owned media does not have a big following due to the brand being dead, is not very informative and needs revamping.

EARNED MEDIA

Since the brand of Pierre Cardin is dead right now, there is not much talk about it. The earned media that the brand has received lately is articles on the designer’s death as well as articles on the runways that have happened this year. When googling “Pierre Cardin articles,” they are all articles on Pierre Cardin’s death published on or around December 29, 2020, which is the date that the designer passed away. There are a few articles on the two fashion shows that took place this year.

In January, “COSMOCORPS3022” took place in Bourget, France to pay tribute to the late Pierre Cardin and in July, “Cent” occurred in Venice, Italy to celebrate what would have been the 100th birthday of Pierre Cardin. When looking at “Pierre

Cardin Italian-French fashion designer” on google trends, there are a few things that stand out. First of all, when looking at the interest over time from January 2004 to present, the interest is pretty steady until December 2020.

This is not a surprise, as this was when Cardin passed away and all the articles were written about him and he was being spoken about and remembered. When looking at the interest by region, Turkey is number one and Italy and France are not even in the top 15.

We discovered that Turkey is the most interested country in “Pierre Cardin” because there is a Turkish brand called Pierre Cardin. The french Pierre Cardin’s website is www.pierrecardin.com, and the Turkish Pierre Cardin’s website is www.pierre-

cardin.com.tr. Most people that are googling the term “Pierre Cardin” are searching for the Turkish Pierre Cardin, as that is a brand that is currently up and running and selling merchandise online, unlike the French Pierre Cardin.

Over the past year, there has been a 160K% rise in results and 35.1K rate of engagement with the brand of Pierre Cardin which is due to the designer passing away and the Instagram account being created. People are mainly sharing the brand on Twitter and online news platforms.

The top accounts that are mentioning Pierre Cardin are Home and Poshmark, proving that resale is the primary and only market that the brand has right now. The top hashtags are #shopmycloset, #poshmark, #pierrecardin,

#fashion, and #eBay. The sentiment of the mentions of Pierre Cardin are fairly natural with 73.6% neutral, 24.7% positive and 1.7% negative. The most engaging post about Pierre Cardin is a YouTube video about the Top Fashion Designers of All Time, followed by the most engaging Instagram post on their official website, which was mentioned earlier. Most people that mention the brand are female (71.4%) and between the ages of 25-34.

They are mainly people who are creatives and who are into fashion. The most active author to mention Pierre Cardin is Poshmark and the most influential author is the official Instagram account of Pierre

Cardin. The most active site is Mirapodo (online second hand website) and the most influential site is The Daily Mail which has articles mentioning celebrities wearing Pierre Cardin. The countries that mention Pierre Cardin the most are the United States (42.5%), Germany (19.5%) and Spain (5.1%).

CHAPTER 6

merchandising

COSMOCORPS3022 -

Tribute

to Pierre Cardin - January 2022

In January 2022, the COSMOCORPS3022 fashion show took place in remembrance of fashion designer, Pierre Cardin, after his passing in December 2021. The fashion show took place at the Air and Space Museum in Bourget, France. The show was divided into two parts. The first featured pieces designed by Pierre Cardin from different collections throughout his career and the second featured pieces designed by studio Pierre Cardin. Images of young Pierre Cardin and pieces from his collections from the 60s and 70s were projected onto the screens besides the Ariane 5 rocket that was placed at the head of the runway. The show was screened in cinema theaters in Moscow, Mexico City, Dallas and Tirana.

Cent - celebrating 100 years of Pierre Cardin - July 2022

Cent took place in the garden and palace of Ca’ Bragadin in Venice, Italy as a celebration of 100 years of Pierre Cardin. The fashion show took place on July 2, 2022, which would have been the designers 100th birthday. Cent featured archival pieces from the original Pierre Cardin collections as well as pieces from the new eco-sustainable from the current creative director and CEO, Rodrigo Basilicati Cardin.

RUNWAYS

Red Square in Moscow

Pierre Cardin debuted his 1991 fashion show on Red Square in Moscow, Russia. The audience consisted of over 200,000 people and was broadcasted on national television. The event opened the door to a new era - a friendship between the two worlds after 70 years of hostility. Cardin loved Russia and used Russian motifs in his collections, purchased commercial real estate in Moscow and opened up restaurants there.

Children’s runway triplets

Three little kids standing side by side in the park while modeling their space age mod fashion black and while Pierre Cardin outfits. This photograph was taken by French photographer Pierre Boulat in Paris, 1967. He presented his first children's collection in Paris, France. The collection was presented to the audience by all the triplets in Paris.

In 2007, Pierre Cardin hosted a fashion show along a silk road in the Gobi desert in China. With the golden light and emptiness of the desert, Pierre described the show to be “like showing fashion on the edge of infinity.” This was the biggest production Cardin produced in 40 years.

Gobi Desert in China

In 2018, Pierre Cardin hosted a fashion show at the Great Wall of China to celebrate 40 years of Pierre Cardin. In addition to celebrating 40 years of the brand, it was also dedicated to the 40th anniversary of China’s reform and opening up. The fashion show’s theme was “Rogue de Cardin.” Rogue, meaning red in French, is one of Cardin’s symbolic colors as well as the representative color of China. The fashion show featured 40 classic pieces from past collections as well as 40 pieces from the 2019 Spring Summer collection designed by Chinese fashion designers.

Great Wall of China

CHAPTER 7

distribution

DISTRIBUTION

Pierre Cardin currently has one store, Pierre Cardin Couture Homme, in Paris, France located on 20 Rue du Cirque.

Pierre Cardin Couture Homme, 20 Rue du Cirque Past-Present-Future Museum & boutique, 5 rue saint merri. Set to reopen March 2023

CHAPTER 8

BRAND LISTENING

SOCIAL CHANNEL MEASUREMENT

GOOGLE TRENDS