Good Ground: Pioneering California's Next Spirit

WORDS BY LIFESTYLE

PHOTOS BY ROOT CREATIVE MARKETING

For over four decades, the Woolf family has been a pillar of California's agricultural community, growing everything from almonds and pistachios to tomatoes and garlic. But now, they are taking on an innovative challenge that no one has attempted on a commercial scale: growing agave plants in the Golden State.

The company was founded in 1974 by Stuart Woolf’s father, and since then, Woolf Farming has been a trusted name in agriculture. Today, Stuart and his son, Jack Woolf, are leading the family's newest agave farming venture.

While the sun-drenched fields of Mexico have long been synonymous with the spiky blue-green agave, the Woolfs are betting on California’s potential to become a new frontier for this resilient crop. It’s a commitment that stretches beyond a single season; most agave varieties require a patient six to seven years to reach maturity, a testament to the family’s long-term vision.

This isn’t just about introducing a new crop; it’s about adapting to a changing environment. As Stuart Woolf explains, the converging factors of “great soil, a similar heat climate to Mexico, and now a significant water shortage” make agave an increasingly compelling alternative for California farmers. The very challenge of dwindling water resources, which has long defined California agriculture, is the catalyst for this audacious undertaking. “We used to have plenty of water,” Stuart notes, highlighting the shift toward inventive solutions.

Jack Woolf has immersed himself in the intricacies of agave cultivation, traveling to Mexico to absorb centuries of knowledge. He stands as one of the few large-scale growers venturing into this unproven territory. Currently, the Woolf family is cultivating an impressive 450 acres, experimenting with over a dozen different agave varietals. Among the varietals being planted on a larger scale: Yolo, Espadín, and the coveted Weber Azul, from which authentic tequila is crafted.

Looking to the future, the family has an interest in distillation. However, much like how sparkling wine can only be called “Champagne” if it is made in the region of Champagne, France, any spirit distilled from their California-grown agave cannot be labeled as “tequila” or “mezcal” due to the legally protected Denomination of Origin (DO) status held by Mexico. These names are reserved for spirits produced in specific regions of Mexico under strict regulations. Instead, should the Woolfs venture into distillation, their product would likely be marketed as “agave spirit.”

Their primary focus, however, remains on providing a viable, droughttolerant crop option for their fellow farmers. With a single mature agave plant capable of yielding enough raw material for approximately 10 bottles of spirit, the potential impact on the agricultural landscape is significant.

The Woolf family’s foray into agave farming is more than just planting a new crop; it’s a testament to their adaptability, and their deep rooted commitment to the future of California agriculture. As these spiky pioneers mature under the California sun, they represent a bold step towards a more resilient and diverse agricultural landscape, proving that even in the face of challenges, new and exciting possibilities—and potentially a new category of American agave spirit—can take root.