Ocean View Magazine - Winter 2011/12

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OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Winter 2011/12

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Back waters, Kerala Indian Tourism Office, 7 Cork Street, London W1S 3LH, Tel: 0207 437677 info@indiantouristoffice.org

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Photography by Grant Scott

Welcome Wherever we live, many of us find the lure of the ocean irresistible and the lifestyle it promises desirable. We’ve decided to create Ocean View magazine especially for those of you who live and holiday by and on the water, or dream of doing so. In its’ pages we’ll explore this place of calm and tranquility, holidays and sport, nostalgia and aspiration. In this, our launch issue, we bring lovers of the water seafood recipes by renowned chef Mark Hix and ideas for coastal escapes courtesy of Channel 5‘s Hotel Inspector Alex Polizzi, along with inspiration for seaside interiors and fashion. We’ll always aim to provide you with fascinating historical insights, and our feature on the History of Champagne won’t disappoint, especially if accompanied by one of the suggested cocktails! Whether you’re looking for an approachable magazine to take on a cruise, to enrich dinner party conversation or enjoy by the pool side, Ocean View aims to offer you a great read, often featuring extracts from the very best books, so that you can follow up with further reading on your return. It’s also the perfect virtual escape for when you are curling up on the sofa on winter’s evenings at home - you can dream of investing in a new diving watch for next season’s sporting adventures (page 51) or researching a cruise holiday (page 11). So for now, whether you are enjoying an Ocean View, or indulging in some seaside escapism from a very different setting, we hope that our launch issue entertains and inspires you.

Samantha Scott-Jeffries Editor OCEAN VIEW 3

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WINTER 2011/12

OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Winter 2011/12

CONTENTS

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3. IT’S TIME TO ENJOY AN OCEAN VIEW OCEAN VIEW 1

Cover Image: Dreamstime.com

Ocean View Magazine Editor: Samantha Scott-Jeffries s.scott-jeffries@parkview-publishing.co.uk Editorial Director: Grant Scott g.scott@parkview-publishing.co.uk Production Design: Park View Studio: Harriet Weston h.weston@parkview-publishing.co.uk Media Director/Advertising Sales: Linda Grace l.grace@parkview-publishing.co.uk Managing Director/Publisher: Lee Mansfield l.mansfield@parkview-publishing.co.uk Sales Director: Simon Skinner s.skinner@parkview-publishing.co.uk Accounts: Clare Fermor/ Amelia Wellings: c.fermor@parkview-publishing.co.uk a.wellings@parkview-publishing.co.uk Published by Park View Publishing Park View House 19 The Avenue, Eastbourne, East Sussex BN21 3YD 01323 411 601 Printed by Gemini Press Unit A1 Dolphin Way, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex BN43 6NZ 01273 464884 All material in this publication is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The views expressed in Ocean View Magazine do not necessarily represent the view of Park View Publishing LTD. Every care is taken in compiling the contents but the publishers of Ocean View Magazine assume no reponsibilty for any damage, loss or injury arising from the participation in any offers, competitions or advertisment contained within Ocean View Magazine. All prices featured in Ocean View Magazine are correct at the time of going to press. Copyright Park View Publishing 2011 ©

6. 11. 16. 24. 32. 39. 45. 51. 63.

Welcome: A warm invitation to explore what’s inside our launch issue of Ocean View. Portfolio: Bringing you highlights from a photographic celebration of sailing throughout history. The ABC of Cruising: An indispensable and practical guide to planning a luxury cruise holiday. Fashion: The story of Henri Lloyd, the man behind the luxury brand who has brought enduring nautical wear to the masses. Coastal Living: Discover a beach-side hideaway with rustic textures that are perfect for year round living, both by the sea and on the shore. The Ultimate Seafood: Esteemed chef and restauranteur Mark Hix shares his finest fish recipes and cooking tips. Champagne - A Global History: The fascinating story behind the world’s most famous sparkling wine, accompanied by classic cocktail recipes for you to try. On the Waterfront: Hotel Inspector Alex Polizzi recommends luxury stays with waterside views for you to enjoy, whatever the weather. Buyer’s Guide: We bring you the most desirable diving and waterproof watches, to suit all sports and budgets. Which will you choose? The Sea Calls: What is it about the seaside that draws so many of us to it? Read a personal journey.

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PORTFOLIO

Portfolio Sail: A Photographic Celebration Of Sail Power

This book is a photographic journey between the golden age of sailing and modern contemporary yachting. It is an album formed of images captured by the world’s most accomplished nautical photographers. Stanley Rosenfeld (US) and Beken of Cowes (UK) were the first to immortalise the age of the great schooners, the heralded challenges between the big boats, the J Class and other notable design classics from the beginning of the last century. Rosenfeld’s and Beken’s pioneering action photography at sea frames the end of the transition from impeccibly dressed skippers at the wheel sporting social blazer and tie, to the hulls made of carbon and sails constructed of Kevlar such as we now regularly expect of our yachts. (Not to mention the multihulls which continue to better both speed records and the amount of advertisable surface area for their sponsor’s logos). Their enduring legacy is felt throughout this book.

RIGHT: Thirty thousand dollars (approximately seventeen thousand pounds) torn to shreds in an instant.

SAIL: A photographic celebration of sail power Published by Adlard Coles Nautical, £29.99 www.adlardcoles.com

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C.Borlenghi

PORTFOLIO

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C.Borlenghi

PORTFOLIO

ABOVE: Launched under the name Shockwave in 2002 in New Zealand, Alfa Romeo is a 90ft (27m) maxi and is probably the fastest in its category.

C.Borlenghi

BELOW: Melges 24 during the Semaine Nautique Internationale de la Mediterrannee, Marseille, 2005.

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Studio Faggioni

PORTFOLIO

ABOVE: Yachts of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century.

G M Raget

BELOW: Wally Tiketitoo may look like a toy model in this photo but her 89ft (27m) length and 20ft (6m) width are the genuine article.

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CRUISING: A GUIDE TO HOLIDAYS AFLOAT

The ABC of Cruising

Choosing the right luxury cruise holiday can be a confusing task. With such a vast and complex array of options, it is easy to opt for a cruise that doesn’t live up to expectations. Experienced cruise writer Bill Glenton offers us a practical guide to inform your next booking

A AMPHIBIAN

The first step to understanding cruising is to grasp that it is as much about land as it is about sea. Ships spend almost as much time in ports as they do sailing between them. Choosing where you want to go is as much a deciding factor as the kind of ship and her operators. This calls for a careful balancing act. While most ships are suitable for popular areas like the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, very particular kinds are needed for visiting some remoter regions of the world and for longer ocean voyages. Your decision may mean putting destination before abetter shipboard lifestyle or vice-versa. In general, it is probably best to aim for equal enjoyment from ship and shore. It is only when both are in harmony that cruising provides its uniquely satisfying experience. Calling at too many ports is not only tiring, but may rob you of onboard pleasure and jollity. Too little time sightseeing is likely to leave you frustrated, even in the best of ships.To enjoy the true flavour of cruising it is also important that your vessel spends some full days at sea. This is when she really comes alive with a complete programme of activities and when you can fully relax. In many ships this may be only the first and last days (when you are either familiarising yourself with the ship or packing to go home), so try to choose a cruise with at least one extra day at sea.Enough time in each port is another priority, although it will rarely be that long and depends on the number and quality of local attractions. Around eight to 12 hours is usual at more interesting places and as little as

four to six hours elsewhere.What can be frustrating is having the ship sail just when so many ports, particularly in hot countries, start to come alive with colourful nightlife. Look for cruises that make late night or even overnight stays, so you can have extra fun. As any cruise line salesman will admit if pressed, the choice of destinations visited is what makes a particular ship successful and explains why so often, too many brief calls are included. Try not be tempted by a very glamorous itinerary, unless it is an extra long voyage, as your attitude may well change once you are aboard. So often I have seen the lure of sightseeing wane among passengers as the attraction of the ship takes over. She becomes more like a home-from-home – even a mother’s womb. Seeing shore-goers’ expressions of relief, as they return to the familiar and relaxing are unmistakable. But like strawberries and cream, one ingredient compliments the other. Just how much of each is something only your individual tastes can decide.

B BOOKING

Bewildered might be a better word. With nearly 300 ships to choose from (many in popular waters), a confusing variety of vessels large and small and thousands of different fares, you might think it wiser to settle for a seaside guesthouse instead. Pouring through the OCEAN VIEW 11

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CRUISING: A GUIDE TO HOLIDAYS AFLOAT

“A well-established name certainly influences many people when making a booking. Today this is less important because so many old companies have been taken over by comparative newcomers”

avalanche of cruise brochures rarely helps either. Every cruise line seems to make each ship the best thing at sea since Noah launched his Ark. Before you even visit a travel agent or contact the cruise lines, you need to decide on the following key preferences: Cost Firmly decide the amount you can reasonably afford. This will reduce the choice available and help you find the best value in what is a very competitive business. Your yardstick should be the price of a mid-grade cabin as there is usually a wide range of fares in each ship and itinerary. Cruise length It is best and more economic to aim for as long a cruise as possible, if (as is most likely), you are going on a fly-cruise. The cost of the air content will be proportionately less the longer the time spent in the ship. Most cruises are seven or 14 nights but some last ten as a halfway alternative. Another possibility forgetting the best value for money, particularly when flying a long way, is one of the many ‘cruise-and-stay’ deals in which the sea trip is shared with a resort vacation. These are cheaper than a similar length cruise-only package. Season When you cruise is a big deciding factor on both cost and destination

as, with a few exceptions, ships ply certain areas at varying prices according to the time of year. Many vessels spend spring to autumn in the Mediterranean and the winter months in the Caribbean. Most long-haul fly-cruises, such as those to the Pacific, are in winter. Each area has seasonal variations in prices and you can save money by going at ‘low’ and ‘shoulder’ times. Destinations The more specific you are about the area you want to cruise,the simpler your choice. Many scores of ships ply the Mediterranean and its by-waters, but the number reduces rapidly if you choose ‘West’ or ’East Med’ and still less if you aim for the Adriatic, Aegean or Black Sea. But do not select just any old itinerary. Look for one with a few interesting call variations or you could easily end up being part of a cruise ship procession to over crowded ports. Try and include a place or country you have always wanted to see, as experiencing several countries and cultures always adds welcome variety. Ship Type Do you prefer large or small vessels or something in between? Are plenty of shipboard activities important (they will be especially when you are travelling with children) or do you seek a quiet relaxing voyage? Your choice of destination will probably decide this, as small ships can reach more offbeat places than bigger ones. The vessel’s nationality may also matter, but most have an international atmosphere. Cruise Line A well-established name certainly influences many people when making a booking. Today this is less important because so many old companies have been taken over by comparative newcomers, for example, the Cunard and Princess lines, now under American control. This may not change the way a ship is run, but makes the title of the cruise line lower down your list of priorities. Making sure a company has a good track record is vital, however. As in any big business, there are dubious operators and cruising is no exception. You may not be able to achieve all your preferences, but this list should keep you focused well enough to achieve most of them. Now you can go ahead and book, although this also calls for caution. Your high street travel agency may be good enough for most kinds of holidays but can it deal properly with cruising? You may be safer seeking a specialist cruise agent. If in doubt, you can always book direct with the cruise line, which also gives you a chance to test its efficiency (and sincerity). In my experience, the standard of customer care (or lack of it)when booking is usually reflected aboard ship.

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CRUISING: A GUIDE TO HOLIDAYS AFLOAT

C CABIN

Do not be surprised if some young assistant at the cruise line or travel agency states sweetly: ‘Cabins? Oh, you mean guest rooms.’ It is all part of the trend for cruise lines to make ships more like hotels, as they attempt to capture a more landlubberly market.This does not change the fact that cabins are different and rarely match the size of most hotel rooms, except for the more costly suites. ‘Compact’ is a more practical word, although these days, all cabins have en-suite bathrooms, even if they area bit of a squash at times. The most important thing to consider when choosing a cabin is its position. The cost and to an extent the comfort varies considerably depending on whether it is outside or inside, high or low deck and even fore (towards the bow/front)or aft (towards the stern/back). A happy medium is an outside cabin with sea view, reasonably high up and amidships for better stability.The most expensive cabins and suites are usually on the top accommodation decks, where, in some ships, you can suffer the more nauseating swaying in bad weather. The lower the better in this case and you also save on the price, but against there is the risk you might be too close to a noisy engine room. Being too far fore or aft in a cheaper cabin can mean cramped conditions due to the curve of the bows or being kept awake by the thrashing of the propeller. Inside cabins also have a drawback in that the cost saving they provide is offset by having to have a light on all the daytime. Outside ones are clearly the best, but make sure a lifeboat or its davits do not block your sea view. There is one similarity to hotel rooms – the often-higher cost for singles. Apart for a very few lines, there is a premium charge when cruising alone. The only alternative is sharing with a stranger but this is too much a hit or miss choice for many.However, with cruise lines so keen to win your bookings, it is well worth trying to negotiate a lower price. Single size cabins are getting ever rarer these days and are almost non-existent in modern vessels with mainly standardised accommodation on most decks. The brochure should illustrate all types of cabins along with their measurements. Be wary if this information is missing. Some typical examples of what to expect are: Around 150 sq feet for small inside cabins, 200 sq feet for slightly larger doubles, over

250 sq feet in the medium range and as much as500 sq feet for a top-class suite. This is just an average guide and a really close check may well unearth better value for money, particularly in older ships. With limited space in most cabins, it is vital that every inch should count. Unless you are going on honeymoon or in some truly inseparable loving arrangement do you really need a double bed? Single ones provide more free space especially when one bed can be converted into a daytime couch. Incidentally, few ships have bunks these days. To avoid cabins looking like a typical teenager’s bedroom,plus the fact you may have extra clothing for formal occasions, plenty of wardrobe and drawer space is essential. And will there be room to store those suitcases? If you can afford it,upper-grade cabins with a walk-in closet are a real plus and add much to your comfort. Another useful asset in the cabin is a table big enough to have breakfast or an intimate dinner on (check that the ship provides cabin meals). There are times on cruises when you want to escape other passengers for some welcome privacy. The cruise lines will argue that passengers are so busy being entertained during the day that they only need the cabin for sleeping and dressing, but you need ‘space’ of more than the literal kind. Space is certainly at a premium in the bathrooms. Most can just take a basin, shower and loo. The more expensive types also have a bath but is the extra cost worth what can be a tight fit in more ways than one. More important (for women at least)is a hairdryer – often provided but do check. If you take your own, include an adapter, as ships’ currents are often different. Some cabins may have a balcony but it can be too windy at sea to use and away from the sun in port, so choosing one without can sensibly save money. If you do choose a cabin with a balcony, be aware that neighbouring passengers can easily hear your personal conversations and you can hear theirs.

For more of Bill Glenton’s advice read: CRUISING FROM A-Z An Honest Guide to Holiday Afloat by Bill Glenton, Published by Discovery Books. Copies are £8.99 and available from www.discoverybooks.co.uk

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HENRI LLOYD: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND

Shelter from the Storm

Henri Lloyd has been at the forefront of quality nautical wear for five decades. We chart the heritage behind the lifestyle brand that Mr Henri (as he is widely known) has developed to offer innovative technology to adventurers and enduring fashion to the masses.

The Early Years At the end of the Second World War Henri Strzelecki, a decorated soldier from the Polish Free Army who had fought alongside the British 8th Army in Italy, settled in the North of England in search of a new beginning. Henri Strzelecki or ”Mr Henri” as he was to become known later, was a driven and intelligent man. He studied textiles and design and soon started a career working with some of the biggest clothing companies in the region. As a keen sailor he soon spotted the potential in the 1960’s wonder fabric Bri-Nylon®, however his then employer was not as visionary and rejected the idea that would later revolutionize the world of sailing clothing. This led to Henri leaving the company and forming Henri Lloyd Limited on June 1st 1963.

ABOVE: Mr Henri, who once served with the Polish Free Army.

The Adventurers There has always been a special group of people whose strongest driving force in life is to conquer the globe by pushing themselves to the limits. These are the men and women who have climbed the highest mountains, crossed the vastest continents and the wild oceans that connect them.

All images ©Henri Lloyd

The Innovations By allowing innovative thinking to be a part of the working process Henri Lloyd developed a number of design firsts, which are now accepted as industry standards not only in sailing clothing but all forms of technical and safety clothing. With the Swiss company Ri-ri, Henri produced the first noncorrosive zip made of nylon (the failure of a zip in the middle of the freezing and wild southern ocean is potentially deadly for the wearer). Henri Lloyd was also the first company to introduce Velcro as a closure in waterproof sailing garments. But probably the biggest breakthrough was the hand taping of seams as an alternative to varnishing to reliably prevent water ingress. Later he developed a feature that would save many lives – the first integral safety harness in a jacket. In 1994, the introduction of high performance breathable foul weather gear proved to be the most significant revolution since the introduction of Bri-Nylon. Henri Lloyd’s breathing range used GORE-TEX fabric for the first time and it went through over 22,000 hours of round the world testing at sea, before it was introduced to the market. 16 OCEAN VIEW

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All images ŠHenri Lloyd

Renowned sailor Rolf Bjelke during an artic expedition.

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HENRI LLOYD: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND

In these people Mr Henri saw a perfect testing ground and an opportunity to fill his own brand with a sense of quality, strength and performance, long before product endorsement was invented. In 1966 Sir Francis Chichester was the first man to circumnavigate the globe single-handedly with only one stop. With this he was the first in a long row of pioneers and yachtsmen that Henri Lloyd would supply with advanced highperformance clothing: Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, Sir Alec Rose, Chay Blyth and Dame Naomi James are but a few. In 1979 The Transglobe Expedition was referred to in the New York Times as “the world’s last great adventure.” This was the first circumpolar journey round the world via the poles. Led by Sir Ranulph Fiennes, the expedition took him and his crew through 100,000 miles of demanding Arctic and Antarctic environment with hazardous oceans – protected at all times by Henri Lloyd foul weather gear. Over the years the innovative skills of Henri Lloyd development team have led the Henri Lloyd brand to the forefront of protection for sailors and adventurers. A position the company still holds today. The World Of Racing Henri Lloyd has a long history of supplying technical clothing to top sailors, particularly those taking part in round the world yacht racing and The America’s Cup. Anybody who has seen footage from the races will realise that what the crews have to go through is beyond what the average sailor meets at sea. The crews on board these vessels demand nothing but the best and it is no coincidence that in 2001/2002 Volvo Ocean Race, 4 out of 8 crews chose to wear Henri Lloyd to protect them from the ferocious seas and sub-zero climates. By allowing solo sailors and crews to test garments, fabrics and features in authentic racing conditions - new ideas and product developments are tested to the full - thus meeting Henri Lloyd’s values of technology, innovation as well as the highest quality standards. In 2004 Henri Lloyd were chosen to become Technology Partner of BMW Oracle Racing during the 32nd America’s Cup. Over a three year commitment, working with the race crew’s Clothing Technology Team to analyse every role on board, every condition of racing, every potential opportunity to improve the individual’s performance, has resulted in a winning partnership. The Man Behind It All When Mr Henri came to Great Britain in 1945 he thought he had left Poland for good, not being able to return because of the

Sir Francis Chichester on board Gypsy Moth IV, 1967.

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HENRI LLOYD: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND

“There has always been a special group of people whose strongest driving force in life is to conquer the globe by pushing themselves to the limits”

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HENRI LLOYD: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND

communist occupation. But he never forgot where he came from and later in life he resumed contact with his homeland. Today Henri Lloyd has many retail stores in Poland along with a state of the art production centre, which has become a major manufacturing plant for many of the company’s high technology products. Mr Henri’s entrepreneurial spirit and charm quickly made him a popular character in the marine industry and his early use of product endorsement in cooperation with top sailors of the 1960’s and 1970’s made him a business role model for other companies, both within and outside the industry. For over 35 years Mr Henri participated in and actively contributed to the British Marine Industry Federation, the Marine Trades Association Executive and Export Committees. Mr Henri’s lifetime achievement is a result of great vision and hard work. Besides being rewarded with an exciting and rich business life he had been decorated for his accomplishments, both on the battlefield and in the market place. In 1946 he received various Polish and British military medals, and in 1985 Mr Henri was awarded the MBE by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, followed in 1986 and 1987 by two Queens awards for export achievement. In 1997 Mr Henri officially retired from the business but holds the title of Honorary President of Henri Lloyd. His two sons Paul and Martin have controlled the business since the late 1980’s and have over 30 years experience in the company between them. They have presided over the transformation from high quality manufacturing company to a world class brand. Their philosophy is to invest in people, state-of-theart clothing design technology, world-class manufacturing, warehousing and service, whilst maintaining the values and principles that where laid down by their father.

ABOVE: The first sketch of the legendary Ocean Racer jacket - a product that saved many lives. BELOW: The Consort RWR Jacket, designed by Olmes Carretti.

The Italian Incident When running a professional clothing business you need to know what exactly it is you are producing and for whom you are doing it. But even if you think your target group is clearly identifiable, serendipity can strike and you suddenly realise that you are doing something completely different. This is what happened to Henri Lloyd in 1984 when the Milan Scooter Society, the Paninari, adopted a ‘uniform’ of Timberland deck shoe, Levi’s 501’s and the Henri Lloyd Consort Original sailing jacket. The jacket was originally designed in 1965 and worn by Sir Francis Chichester on his epic voyage. It was a jacket developed for life at sea, at least that was what was thought when it was first made, but instead it turned into a street 20 OCEAN VIEW

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1845

Key Ingredients 100g of bravery from Granddad Samuel A dash of mischief from Uncle John 2tbsp of sensitivity from Great Granny Margaret A sprinkling of good humour from Aunty Mary

Discover your own recipe with Genes Reunited Search millions of record and find your ancestors – Plus save 15% when you purchase any 12 month subscription by entering the code CRUISE Offer valid until 30th June 2012 OCEAN VIEW 21

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OCEAN VIEW OCEAN VIEW Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more...

Winter 2011/12

FREE

IT’S TIME TO ENJOY AN OCEAN VIEW OCEAN VIEW 1

Interiors, Lifestyle, Food, Sailing, Cruising and so much more... Get individual issues of Ocean View magazine delivered direct to you, straight from us, with free post and packing. For 4 issues (1 year’s subscription) for just £10.00 Call Linda Grace: 01323 433704 It’s time to enjoy an Ocean View 22 OCEAN VIEW

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HENRI LLOYD: THE STORY BEHIND THE BRAND

phenomenon that would sweep across Europe. Henri Lloyd’s range of ocean inspired clothing and accessories quickly became an essential fashion accessory for Europe’s image conscious 18-35 year olds, and over night the world of Henri Lloyd had turned upside down. As the company realised that success in developing foul weather clothing had this attractive and unexplored flipside, a new exciting brand on the Henri Lloyd family tree started growing – fashion. The Waterway To Fashion During the first years as an upcoming lifestyle brand, Henri Lloyd collaborated with the renowned Italian designer Olmes Carretti to the lead the design team. The aim was to use the Henri Lloyd heritage of British attitude, twisted with Italian design flair. The new collection combined innovative materials with natural fabrics, traditional skills and an extraordinary use of colour. In the mid 1990’s Britain Henri Lloyd launched the Black Label, a sophisticated collection featuring Italian inspired sportswear with technically innovative fabrics designed by Massimo Goggi. The collection captured the mood of the times and in 1997 Henri Lloyd was recognised as Fashion Brand of the Year. Now the Henri Lloyd lifestyle collections encompass Mens wear, Women’s wear and footwear and can be found in flagship stores from London to Sydney. The Future Henri Lloyd is a world leader in sailing clothing and an established international lifestyle brand. With sales in over 25 countries, its factories and retail outlets are a far cry from the converted chapel in Manchester where the business started in 1963. It is an impressive result accomplished by one man and his vision. The number of Henri Lloyd stores continues to grow steadily and the flagship stores on Carnaby Street in London and in Valencia are just the beginning of Henri Lloyd’s own brand and marketing challenge around the world. They have certainly come a long way from their humble beginnings back in 1963. www.henrilloyd.com

ABOVE: Henri Lloyd’s Womenswear 2011

“Mr Henri founded the company based upon hard earned principles of honesty, integrity and freedom. These principles are the foundations of the Henri-Lloyd brand today” OCEAN VIEW 23

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COASTAL LIVING: TEXTURE & LIGHT

Natural Selection

People have enjoyed the benefits of seaside living for centuries, but wherever you call home, you can take inspiration from this rustic coastal hideaway. Its’ rustic textures are perfect for year round living.

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OPPOSITE AND ABOVE A living room and kitchen were added to the original building. A large picture window opening onto the garden was fitted. Light floods into the room, creating a sense of spaciousness. The period kitchen floor tiles were reclaimed from the original living room.

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COASTAL LIVING: TEXTURE & LIGHT

“selected items of furniture and use of driftwood help to create a calm, spacious interior.” People have always been drawn to the coast for a host of different reasons. For some, it has been a means of survival, a place to do business or a gateway to the world. Others have been attracted by its beauty and opportunities for relaxation or recreation. The sea is an abundant resource, and many historic settlements were built close to the shore for easy access to its rich fishing grounds. Towns and cities sprung up around ports across the globe, facilitating the movement of people and goods. During the 18th and 19th centuries the coast became a fashionable destination. The English upper classes, lured by the perceived health benefits of bathing in the sea, flocked to the coast as a popular alternative to spa towns, and improvements in transport in the Victorian era opened up the emerging seaside resorts to the rest of society. In 19th century France, it was Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, and the Duc de Morny, the Emperor’s half brother, who popularized bathing in the sea, particularly along the stretch of coastline between Biarritz, in south-west France, and the Basque country. Nevertheless, the idea of swimming in the sea for pleasure was long considered ridiculous in the West. The turning point came in the early 20th century, which heralded the dawn of leisure as we know it. Opulent villas were built to meet demand - none more so, perhaps than those along the French Riviera, which became the playground of the rich and famous. We have been building homes by the sea for a very long time, as evidenced by the discovery of ancient house remains on the Greek islands. The most common materials were stone or wood found in the vicinity. Builders needed expertise and tenacity to combat the effects of prolonged weathering. Modern technological advances have led to the widespread use of high-performance materials such as metal, concrete and glass, which ensure greater resistance and comfort. Coastal topography 26 OCEAN VIEW

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OPPOSITE & ABOVE The new living room is very cosy, with a modern ďŹ replace, comfortable sofas, and a soft, feminine, inviting atmosphere.

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“The white walls, light-coloured textured concrete flooring, selected items of furniture and use of driftwood help to create a calm, spacious interior”

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Photos by Hemis.fr/Bieke Claessens

Every day is different at St George’s Park

st george’s park has been designed for the discerning purchaser aged 60 or over looking to live independently amongst like-minded people. Call or visit us today and discover what you would do.

Two bedroom luxury apartments available for immediate occupation. Imagine a place surrounded by 250 acres of beautiful private grounds. Picture your loved one with exclusive access to a wealth of world class amenities where they can do as much, or as little as they like.

For brochure and viewings, please contact the marketing suite on 01444 259 732

Prices from £340,000 WWW.STGEORGESPARK.CO.UK

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Café/Bar | LiBrary | restaurant | swimming pooL* | tennis Court* | gym | BowLing green* fisHing LaKe | Car CLuB | 24 Hour emergenCy support | † aLLotment garDening | HairDresser OCEAN VIEW * aVaiLaBLe in future pHases †suBjeCt to aVaiLaBiLity

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Photos by Hemis.fr/Bieke Claessens

COASTAL LIVING: TEXTURE & LIGHT

is no longer an obstacle to construction, whether building is on uneven land, perched on a cliff, in the centre of a dune field or in the water itself. Nieuwpoort is a mall North Sea port on the Yser estuary in a Flemish-speaking region of Belgium. Bieke’s hideaway is in the middle of the town, and although close to the beach and the constant bustle of the nearby dyke, it is very quiet. The owner, photographer Bieke Claessens, fell in love with the house as soon as she laid eyes on it, and spent the next two years restoring it. Architect Bart Lens remodelled and renovated the house, retaining the sea views in line with Bieke’s wishes. The cosy, traditional interior contains a mix of designer pieces and bargain or reclaimed items. The cupboard doors in the kitchen, for example, were made from old cheese boards. The exposed beams of the ceiling add height and character to the ground floor, while Bieke has given the TV corner the feel of a beach hut. The new wooden staircase has been varnished to make it look more authentic. The living room has been opened up by replacing brick walls with a partition of poplar panels, and a chimney breast with modern open hearth is the focal point of the space. In choosing the decor for the house, the owner opted for a largely nautical theme. The white walls, light-coloured textured concrete flooring, selected items of furniture and use of driftwood help to create a calm, spacious interior.

Houses by the Sea by Emmanuelle Graffin, Published by Thames & Hudson, £18.95 www.thamesandhudson.com

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SEAFOOD: THE ULTIMATE RECIPES

A Taste of the Deep Award-winning food writer and restauranteur Mark Hix shares his mouth watering yet accessible recipes with us, showing that the diversity of seafood, can satisfy our equally diverse tastes

Fillet of Pike with Sauce Nantua Quenelle de brochet nantua is a classic French dish in which both main ingredients – pike and crayfish – come from fresh water. Pike has an unusual bone structure, having not only a set of bones down its middle but two other sets, one on either side, and is a real pain to bone when raw. That’s why most recipes with pike are made into a mousseline. I won’t put you through the pain of making a mousse, but what I will do is share a top tip given to me by Mauro Bregoli, who for many years owned the brilliant Manor House in Romsey, Hampshire. It is best first to buy your pike filleted, unless you are a dab hand with a filleting knife. Mauro suggests that you lightly steam the pike so the flesh shrinks to reveal the protruding ends of the bones, which can then much more easily be removed. Serves 4 4 skinned pike fillets, each about 160–180g salt and freshly ground white pepper 16–20 crayfish olive oil, for frying or roasting small knob of butter (optional) sauce nantua (pages 102–3, using only half the flour), to serve 1/2 tbsp chopped tarragon

1. Season the pike fillets and steam for about 10 minutes. If you haven’t got a

steamer, preheat the oven to 190°C/gas 5, lay the fillets in a roasting tray with about 2cm of hot water, cover with foil and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. This steaming causes the flesh to shrink a little, leaving the bones protruding so they can be pulled out with a pair of pliers or tweezers. There are lots, so be patient – it’s worth it.

2. Cook the crayfish in simmering salted water for 5 minutes, then plunge them into cold water. Remove the meat from the shells and the claws if they are big enough. Break the shells up a little with a heavy knife and use to make the sauce nantua.

3. Cook the pike fillets again. Either fry them in olive oil for 2–3 minutes on each

side, then add a small knob of butter and continue to fry them until lightly browned; or preheat the oven to gas 200ºC/gas 6, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a roasting pan and roast them for 10–12 minutes or until lightly coloured.

4. Meanwhile, if necessary, simmer the sauce until it has coating consistency,

stir in the tarragon and drop in the peeled crayfish for a minute to re-heat them. To serve, spoon the sauce over the fish fillets. other suitable fish for this recipe: brill, turbot, zander or any firm-fleshed white fish

“It is best first to buy your pike filleted, unless you are a dab hand with a filleting knife” Sauce Nantua 4 shallots, roughly chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped vegetable oil, for frying To make the sauce nantua: in a large heavy-based pan, fry the crayfish shells, shallots and garlic in a little oil over a medium heat for about 6–7 minutes, until they begin to colour lightly. Add the butter and flour and stir in well. Add the saffron, tarragon and tomato purée, and stir well. Gradually stir in the wine and stock, bring to the boil and simmer for about 10 minutes until reduced by roughly half. Add the cream, season lightly, bring to the boil and simmer gently for about 30 minutes until reduced by half and a good thick consistency. Strain the sauce in a colander into a bowl and stir the shells with a spoon to ensure all the sauce goes through. Remove about 10 per cent of the shells (about half a cupful) and blend with the strained sauce in a liquidizer. Strain in a fine-meshed sieve. Bring the sauce back to the boil, the sauce should be a thick coating consistency by now; if not, simmer a little longer or dilute a little cornflour in water and stir into the sauce. Leave to cool. RIGHT: Fillet of pike with sauce nantua

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SEAFOOD: THE ULTIMATE RECIPES

Fillet of Sea Trout with Mousserons

“After its juvenile stage inland [sea trout] migrates to the sea and develops a silvery sheen and saltwater metabolism”

Sometimes also called salmon trout, sea trout has a texture that is slightly more delicate than that of salmon, but it can be used in much the same way. As with salmon, the flavour of wild and farmed fish can vary somewhat. The sea trout you find in the shops tends only to be wild and is difficult to distinguish from salmon, although I have seen a few farmed versions at the markets. The flavour is slightly earthy and delicate, and it doesn’t take much cooking. It is actually the same fish as brown (river) trout but at a later stage in its life. After its juvenile stage inland, it migrates to the sea and develops a silvery sheen and saltwater metabolism. These beautiful fish vary widely in size. Mousserons are a tiny version of the St George’s mushroom and have a delicate but earthy flavour to match the trout; if you can’t find them, then chanterelles would be a good substitute. Serves 4 4 sea trout fillets, each 160–180g, with the skin, scaled, and any residual bones removed salt and freshly ground black pepper vegetable oil, for frying flour, for dusting (optional) 2 tbsp olive oil 3 large shallots, finely chopped 40g streaky bacon or pancetta, finely diced 125g mousserons or chanterelles 50g butter 2 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Season the fish with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan, preferably non-stick (otherwise lightly flour the skin of the fish) and gently cook the fish portions, skin side first, over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes on each side, keeping them slightly pink in the middle and crisping the skin a little. 2 Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in another pan and gently cook the shallots and bacon in it for 3–4 minutes without allowing them to colour. Add the mushrooms and butter, lightly season with salt and pepper and continue to cook over a low heat for another 3–4 minutes until the mushrooms have softened. 3 Add the parsley, heat through for a minute, then spoon the mixture on to warmed plates and serve the sea trout portions on top. OPPOSITE: Fillet of Sea Trout with Mousserons

other suitable fish for this recipe: Arctic char, large brown trout, large rainbow trout, salmon

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SEAFOOD: THE ULTIMATE RECIPES

Grilled Squid with Chickpeas & Pancetta Squid make perfect barbecue material, and are good for a summery lunch or dinner party. The squid needs to be cleaned, leaving the body tubes whole, with the tentacles cut just above the eyes so they stay attached to each other. Serves 4 4 medium-sized squid, each about 200g vegetable oil, for brushing 8 thin slices of pancetta or smoked streaky bacon 100g rocket, preferably wild for the chickpea salsa about 125ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to dress 2 large shallots, finely chopped 1 small mild red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1 red pepper, deseeded and finely chopped finely grated zest of 1/2 lime 160g (drained weight) good-quality canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained 2 tsp sweet chilli sauce 1 tbsp finely chopped mint leaves 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley salt and freshly ground black pepper

“Squid and cuttlefish are actually much easier to prepare than they might at first seem.”

1 To make the chickpea salsa, heat the olive oil in a saucepan and gently cook the shallots, chilli, pepper and lime zest for a few minutes until soft, but not allowing them to colour. Add the chickpeas, stir well and remove from the heat. Stir in the chilli sauce and fresh herbs, season with salt and pepper and set aside. If the salsa seems a bit dry, dress it with a little more oil. 2 Preheat a barbecue, griddle or cast-iron frying pan. Make a cut down the centre of each squid and open it out flat. With a sharp knife, score the body in criss-cross fashion with lines about 2cm apart. Season the squid bodies and tentacles with salt and pepper and brush with some vegetable oil. 3 Meanwhile grill, griddle or fry the pancetta or bacon until crisp. Then cook the squid for 2 minutes on each side. 4 Serve the squid with a pile of the rocket, a spoonful of the warm salsa and the pancetta or bacon on top. Variations: Instead of making the chickpea salsa, you could serve the grilled squid accompanied by the salsa verde or chilli salsa, or even a spiced tartare sauce. other suitable fish for this recipe: cuttlefish, razor clams, scallops

RIGHT: Grilled Squid with Chickpeas and Pancetta

For more recipes by Mark Hix, see Fish etc. The ultimate book for seafood lovers, with photography by Jason Lowe. Published by Quadrille, £12.99 www.quadrille.co.uk/books/foodand-wine

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All photographs by Jason Lowe

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THE STORY BEHIND THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS WINE

Champagne

A Global History

Becky Sue Epstein charts the origins and enduring allure of the world’s most renowned sparking wine. From the story of the monk Dom Pérignon who made champagne famous, to the symbol of luxury it has become today. In the month of June, right in the middle of the recent recession, the world’s longest champagne bar opened in London: 95.8 metres of confidence that travellers on the high-speed Eurostar train between London and Paris will continue to toast departures and arrivals in a celebratory manner – with a glass of champagne. Champagne bars like New York City’s Flute and The Bubble Lounge are opening branches in San Francisco, London and Paris, while British department store Harvey Nichols recently launched a Belle Époque champagne bar at its flagship Knightsbridge store in London. Champagne houses regularly sponsor film events, adding celebrity endorsements such as actress Scarlett Johansson’s for Moët et Chandon at the 2009 Tokyo Film Festival. In the past few years, Veuve Clicquot has collaborated with car designer Porsche and boat designer Riva on champagne cabinets and carrying cases. Piper-Heidsieck, with several top fashion designers, created sexy accoutrements like Christian Louboutin’s high-heeled glass slipper for sipping champagne, and Jean Paul Gaultier’s red leather-bustier clad bottle. Champagne continues to be the beverage that signals special occasions and celebrations, no matter what the climate or the economy is like – in life as well as on screen. In films, James Bond famously quaffed only the finest of everything. Bollinger is known as 007’s signature champagne, though he occasionally sipped vintage Dom Pérignon. For a brief period Bond enjoyed Taittinger – imitating his creator, Ian Fleming – until a scene in 1963’s From Russia With Love when poison was slipped into Tatiana Romanova’s glass, at which point 007’s relationship with that champagne also expired. Originally drunk only by the wealthy nobility, champagne and other sparkling wines have now infiltrated much of the wine-drinking population and are automatically included in life’s milestones; seemingly, there can’t be a wedding or anniversary celebration

“Champagne continues to be the beverage that signals special occasions and celebrations, no matter what the climate or the economy is like” without them. Every sporting triumph requires jets of fizz to celebrate. New ships are christened with champagne before their maiden voyages and people around the globe cannot contemplate New Year’s Eve without plenty of bubbles. Sparkling wines are highly valued all over the world. Why are these wines called ‘sparkling wines’? Because, though champagne is a sparkling wine, it is only one of many sparkling wines made in wine regions throughout the world. Champagne is the name for quality sparkling wines produced in the region of Champagne, about 100 miles east of Paris. Champagne is unquestionably the most famous sparkling wine. From the 1700s on, Champagne’s producers have essentially branded the category of sparkling wine as their own. Champagne is so highly regarded that we tend to refer to all sparkling wines as ‘champagnes’ even when they do not come from Champagne. In theory, any sparkling wine can be as good or better than any champagne – though the Champagne producers have been at it for so long that many of their sparkling wines are not only much more famous than sparkling wines from other regions, but are also excellent wines. To enhance their own identities, some quality sparkling wines from other countries have proprietary names. OCEAN VIEW 39

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THE STORY BEHIND THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS WINE

first place where sparkling wine is known to have been popular. For instance, the sparkling wine originating in Catalonia, Spain, is As early as 1516, sparkling wines were produced in the called cava. Languedoc region of southern France. The first trade in them was In Champagne, the sparkling wines are made mainly with white recorded in 1531 at the Benedictine abbey of St Hilaire in a village chardonnay and red pinot noir grapes, with smaller amounts of in the foothills of Limoux – a cool, mountainous, winemaking area another red grape, pinot meunier, often blended in. In the US and near the Mediterranean. This was over 100 years before the birth other New World wine regions, sparkling wines can be made with of Dom Pérignon, the man generally any grapes. Lacking their own considered to be the originator of proprietary names, these champagne. In fact, the production non-champagne sparklers are method for the wine Blanquette de simply referred to as ‘sparkling Limoux is the same as that used for the wines’ – a generic term for first sparkling wines in Champagne an effervescent wine without in the late seventeenth century. After referencing a particular quality the grapes were pressed, naturally level or geographic designation. occurring yeasts began fermenting the Why is champagne perceived by grape juice - converting the sugars to so many people to be the alcohol - until winter’s cold caused top-quality sparkling wine? fermentation activity to die down. The short answer is that to date, At that point, unbeknownst to the the most expensive and highest winemakers, the yeasts were merely ranked sparkling wines in the world dormant. In Limoux, the wine was have come from Champagne. And bottled during the first full moon in the people of Champagne have March. Afterwards, as the weather been publicizing this for hundreds warmed, the yeasts became active of years. French champagne again, and fermentation started up producers have fought to maintain within the sealed bottles. Bubbles their own proprietary name, to keep developed because carbon dioxide was it geographically delimited and also a by-product of the fermentation quality controlled. The European process. The bubbles were trapped Union (eu) now supports this, and in the liquid in the bottles, creating non-eu nations are also signing carbonated or ‘sparkling’ wine. an agreement with champagne All sparkling wine was originally producers not to use the term produced - or occurred - in this way. outside of Champagne. Limoux was too far from Paris Champagne first became famous to influence Parisians’ drinking The castle of Boursault, not far from the Marne river in the as a somewhat sweet wine in Champagne region of France. habits. However, it is clear that the late 1600s, and demand for the phenomenon of carbonated or it increased steadily throughout sparkling beverages was engaging a the eighteenth century. During variety of people in the 1600s. One, the Englishman the 1800s, when winemaking techniques improved and fashion Christopher Merret, presented a paper to the Royal Society in 1662 demanded it, the winemakers produced half-dry (demi-sec) champagne. Later they were able to produce first the ‘extra dry’ style that discussed sparkling apple cider along with its bottling and and finally the very dry brut, which became overwhelmingly popular secondary fermentation. This occurred six years before the monk Dom Pérignon arrived at the Hautvillers monastery where he is in the 1900s. Today, the most widely known style of sparkling wine popularly thought to have ‘invented’ champagne. in the Western world is brut. Currently, there is a new trend toward Though Champagne is barely a couple of hours’ drive north-east an even ‘drier’ or more ‘natural’ style of champagne called nature or of Paris today, a few hundred years ago it was several days’ journey brut nature (also referred to as zéro dosage). from the French capital. Outside of big cities, most people never So how did Champagne become the most famous region in the went beyond their local market town for food or wine. Around the world for making sparkling wines? In fact, Champagne was not the 40 OCEAN VIEW

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THE STORY BEHIND THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS WINE

Collection CIVC / John Hodder / Collection CIVIC / Berengo Gardin

“Sparkling wines have been stylish for over 300 years, and demand is likely to continue increasing with the globalization of food and wine culture” towns of Reims, Épernay and Troyes – merchant centres of the Champagne district – people drank their local red and white wines, but several of the towns in the region were located along major rivers, making it easier for barrels of Champagne’s wines to be exported to Paris, and beyond. These barrels of wine were commonly purchased by tavern owners, sometimes by wealthy aristocrats. They hoped to use as much wine as possible as soon as each barrel was breached because they knew that wine in opened barrels deteriorated, especially in warmer weather. Once a cask was opened they would transfer the wine to jugs or bottles, mainly as needed for serving. In France in the 1600s, bottles were hand-blown, fairly fragile and somewhat irregular in shape so they could not be stoppered effectively. In barrel or bottle, the wine would not maintain its quality for long. Meanwhile, there were reports from England that when tavern-keepers opened barrels of wine from Champagne in the spring, sometimes the wine was fizzy – and some of the Englishmen liked it! Fizzy wine soon became so fashionable that people began experimenting with methods to make wine bubbly. Tavern owners had already been adding sugar both for flavouring and to counteract the acidity of Champagne’s wines. They found that adding sugar sometimes made the wine more effervescent. When new wines were put in barrels and shipped out of Champagne it was late autumn, and cold. The fermentation process had stopped – or so they thought. With warmer weather, the yeasts began functioning again, rapidly consuming the grape sugars that were left in the wine. Some of the resultant carbon dioxide remained in the barrel-enclosed wine, making it fizzy. But still wine was the goal in Champagne, when Dom Pierre Pérignon arrived to become treasurer of the Benedictine Abbey of Hautvillers in 1668, when he was twenty-nine years old. (Dom is a monk’s title at Benedictine and other monasteries.) Traditionally, monks had produced much of the wine in Europe, and funded many monasteries with proceeds from wine sales. The monks were aware there was a demand for a new, finer style of wine at this point in history. Dom Pérignon decided to become involved in every aspect of the winemaking process so he rolled up his sleeves and began at ground level, so to speak, in the vineyards and the winery. Dom Pérignon insisted on rigorous pruning in the vineyard, resulting in higher quality, optimally flavoured grapes. In the winery, he laboured for years to produce consistently excellent wines. First he

ABOVE: A basket of harvested grapes in Champagne.

worked to create clear, fine-flavoured, still wines. But around 1700, sparkling wines had become too fashionable to ignore. So he began developing new practices for the vineyard and winery, which soon became the acknowledged standards. He used lightly pressed pinot noir grapes for his champagne. In an extremely delicate pressing, the white interiors of the grapes were squeezed out and pressed, while ideally the black skins of the pinot noir grapes remained behind. In the late seventeenth century, there would have been some (red) grape skins in the juice, making the wine light red, not clear white. Dom Pérignon thought white grapes made a wine too sour and unpredictable to use in his sparkling wines. Speculation has it that travelling Iberian monks brought cork to France, and Dom Pérignon seized upon this to stopper his effervescent wine. Because of the pressure in the bottle, Dom Pérignon began tying the corks onto the bottlenecks with lengths of twine. He thought too much time in barrels made the wine dull, so he began experimenting with bottles. But the bottles kept exploding because the bubbly champagne exerted pressure on the delicate French glass. Any bottle could shatter if bumped, or a flaw in the glass could cause it to explode. Not only did this endanger the workers, it also made the wine difficult to OCEAN VIEW 41

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THE STORY BEHIND THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS WINE

transport, and ultimately very expensive because so much champagne was lost. When the same wine was transported by barrel to England and bottled there, these explosions rarely occurred. The English had rediscovered cork stoppers for bottles, perhaps as early as Shakespeare’s time. More importantly, in the seventeenth century English glass was manufactured using coal instead of wood fires, and this made glass considerably stronger. English wine merchants were using glass bottles made this way by 1630, nearly a century before the process became common in France. When Dom Pérignon succeeded in producing great champagne in a bottle, perhaps, as legend has it, he did call out: ‘Brothers, I am drinking stars!’ It’s a wonderful fable, one that the current mega champagne producer Moët et Chandon has been careful to nurture, especially as the firm’s top champagne is named Dom Pérignon. There is a statue of the famous monk in front of the Moët et Chandon headquarters in Epernay. Dom Pérignon died in 1715 at the age of seventy-six. Within a few years of his death, his vineyard management and winemaking techniques had become the prime references for champagne producers. They learned to make sure that the vines did not grow rampantly, putting too much energy into stems and leaves at the expense of the grapes. Records kept at Hautvillers assisted vine growers and wine producers for centuries.

Classic Cocktail Recipes Four favourites for champagne and sparkling wine

Bellini Pour 2 ounces (60 ml) of chilled fresh, white peach puree into a champagne flute. Add 4 ounces (120 ml) of prosecco. Stir lightly.

French 75

In a cocktail shaker with ice, pour 1 ounce (30 ml) of gin, 1/2 an ounce (15 ml) of simple syrup (sugar syrup) and 1/2 an ounce (15 ml) of fresh lemon juice. Shake well and strain into a flute or Collins glass. Top with 3 ounces (90 ml) of chilled champagne. Garnish with a thin lemon slice or spiral.

Champagne Cocktail

Place 1 cube or lump of sugar in the bottom of a champagne flute. Pour several drops of bitters onto the sugar. Slowly pour 4 ounces (120 ml) of chilled champagne down the side of the glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.

Ritz Fizz

Champagne: A Global History by Becky Sue-Epstein, Published by Reaktion Books, £9.99 www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

Pour 1/2 a teaspoon of simple syrup (sugar syrup) into the bottom of a champagne flute. Add 1/4 of a teaspoon each of Diasronno and Curaçao and mix. Add 4 ounces (120 ml) of chilled champagne.

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A care home that feels more like a five star hotel

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Call us on 0844 939 0939, visit us online at www.renaissanceatglencairn.co.uk or email glencairn@renaissance-care.co.uk

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5/8/09 14:47:4902/12/2011 16:20


LUXURY STAYS

On The Waterfront

Whatever the time of year, there is rarely a more revitalising break than one by the water’s edge. Channel 5’s Hotel Inspector Alex Polizzi recommends two retreats to us, that are just the tonic

St Mawes, Cornwall

Hotel Tresanton, Cornwall Rumour has it that Tresanton started off the Cornish revival of the ’90s and it’s not hard to see why. You arrive on a road that loops back on itself at St Mawes, having driven through the Cornish hedgerows that tantalise you with their little glimpses of verdant countryside before shutting you out again. Above the imposing mass of Henry VIII’s castle and the white lighthouse beyond, you arrive at a panoramic sea view, the same view that Tresanton uses to great effect in every single one of its rooms. The hotel buildings are neither grand nor imposing; instead, the charm lies in the details – the whitewashed walls that unite the original row of fishermen’s cottages, the blue umbrellas that protect the tables on the terrace and the unvarnished rails on the terrace that evoke memories of the ocean liners of the ’50s. Everything here is so unarguably appropriate to the place that it has clearly taken a great deal of thought. Tresanton sits above a rocky public beach, its stretch of sand exposed at low tide along with a thousand rockpools, while at high tide and in winter the surf breaks over the sea wall. As ever, with a sea view, you can OCEAN VIEW 45

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LUXURY STAYS

remain enchanted at the changing light, the shifting of boats in and out of the harbour. It is also one of the places where even in the colder months you can be blessed with a sunny day – though there is, of course, a wall of wellingtons available should you not be so lucky. With these thoughtful details and enchanting surroundings it comes as no surprise that the Tresanton has captured the imagination of its enraptured clientele, many of whom book the same room two or three years ahead. Which room? Tresanton has 29 bedrooms in four different buildings. My favourite is Room 3 in Little Tresanton, with its little sitting room and bed right next to the window. Lying in bed, you feel as if you are on a ship at sea. Older guests may prefer Room 7, one of the larger rooms on the first floor of the main building that also houses the

restaurant and sitting room. The most requested room of all, Room 27, is a junior suite with a terrace and peerless view. It is located in a separate house next door. What to eat? The restaurant at Tresanton serves modern European food, with an emphasis on fish. Pre-order grilled lobster and chips and ask for extra vegetables with whatever you order. Homemade ice creams – ginger and chocolate – are worth making an exception for. The Bloody Mary, topped with Fino sherry, is an essential part of the whole experience. Hotel Tresanton, St Mawes, Cornwall, TR2 5DR 01326 270055 www.tresanton.com

Hotel Tresanton, Cornwall

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“The Bloody Mary, topped with Fino sherry, is an essential part of the whole experience” OCEAN VIEW 47

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LUXURY STAYS

The Pool House, Scotland

ABOVE: The Pool House, Poolewe, Ross-Shire

A charming family-run-hotel, evincing an extraordinary devotion to all things Victorian, and affording views of the beautiful Loch Ewe from every window. Overlooking one of the most beautiful and historically charged lochs of the western Highlands, Loch Ewe, The Pool House is an extraordinary place. First impressions, on arrival, are of an immaculately preserved Victorian guest house. You will be ushered through the dark crimson wallpapered reception into a book-lined sitting room, log fire roaring, the view framed by swagged curtains and fringed pelmets, with rugs overlaying the carpet, needlepoint cushions, antique tables and framed black-and-white family portraits. There is a full-sized billiards table next to the bar, with a wood-panelled room dedicated to the finer whiskies, which are illuminated by spotlights. The dining room has a nautical theme; the ceiling is dark blue and covered in stars; one wall is entirely taken up with a huge and beautifully hand-painted compass. In the private dining room is the bell that was rung during war meetings at the house – it was here that the British navy decamped after the disastrous loss of The Royal Oak at Scapa Flow at the beginning of WWII. The view over the water is astonishing; on the ground floors it feels as if you are floating on the loch, with the water lapping almost to the terrace at high tide. Peter bought the house, or rather ‘the view’, despite the strenuous objections of his wife, Margaret. It had been savagely modernised in the late 1960s; its marble floors and fireplaces had been thrown into the loch; the original bay windows had been replaced with double glazing and rooms had been divided and stripped of any original wood features. Everything you see now has been painstakingly replaced with the unstinting support of Liz and Mhairi, daughters of the house. The Harrison family have now owned and run it for over 20 years and nothing is too much trouble for them. The Pool House is such an overwhelmingly stylised property that it will not suit everyone; its inimitable combination of distance from London, a devotion to Victoriana that verges on the kitsch and themed rooms

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LUXURY STAYS

would usually send me screaming for the door. Instead I find myself totally won over because of the spectacular location and incredible service. Which room? With heavy carved wooden doors, intricate ceiling screens, pink and gold friezes and brocaded silk cushions, Nairana is a huge, opulent, Indian-styled suite. Once you light the strategically readied candles and sip the delicate sherry from Venetian glasses on the tray by your bed, I defy even the most marriage-jaded to resist romance. Diadem, meanwhile, is a homage to the Titanic. The enormous bath has an enclosed chrome and glass shower at one end, the lights around the four-poster bed are cast from the ship’s original moulds and the dark blue walls and oak-panelling showcase the blueprint of the ship hanging in pride of place above the sitting room fireplace. Recline on the window seat and enjoy the views of the loch. What to eat? For breakfast, make sure you start with porridge, double cream and brown sugar, before partaking in eggs scrambled from the Harrisons’

own hens. The hotel serves set six-course dinners some evenings – expect scallops, fresh fish, and broths to feature – otherwise, they offer a simpler room service menu, or you can ask for a seafood platter featuring lobster, langoustine, smoked salmon and crab from Loch Ewe. Alternatively, take a ten minutes drive to Gairloch where you will find a good steak at The Myrtle Bank or seafood and a large range of real ales at The Old Inn. The Pool House, Poolewe, Ross-Shire IV22 2LD, 01445 781 272 | www.pool-house.co.uk

Alex Polizzi’s Little Black Book Of Hotels, 52 Secret Destinations In Britain, by Alex Polizzi, published by Quadrille, £20.00 www.quadrille.co.uk/books/art-and-travel

The Pool House, Poolewe, Ross-Shire

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“Putting the customer first, this time, next time . . . every time!”

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Waterproof to an extreme depth of 3900m, the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea RRP ÂŁ7,070. www.rolex.com

WATCH OUT!

To ensure that you are never all at sea when it comes to choosing the right time piece, we have selected 16 of the best for you. OCEAN VIEW 51 OCEAN VIEW 51

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GENTLEMAN’S TIMEPIECES: A BUYERS GUIDE

Citizen’s Promaster Depth Metre Chronograph has depth display to 50 metres, RRP £469. www.citizenwatch.co.uk

Exceptionally resilient and water-resistant, Raymond Weil’s titanium nabucco Va Pensiero, RRP £3,595. www.raymond-weil.com

Featuring 11 dynamic functions for maritimeminded individuals, Tissot’s Racing Touch 2210, RRP £395. www.tissot.ch

This sturdy TW steel chronograph boasts a silicon rubber strap with an anti-dust layer, RRP £495. www.twsteeluk.com

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GENTLEMAN’S TIMEPIECES: A BUYERS GUIDE

Designed to bring technology to those looking to explore the ocean, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf, RRP £625. www.zodiacwatches.com

With racing at its core and water resistant to 100m, the Breitling Bentley Barnato Racing performs on land and at sea, RRP £10,170. www.breitlingfor bentley.com

Vulcanised rubber creates a non-slip surface to Corum’s Admiral’s Cup Challenger 44 Chornograph, RRP £6,050. www.corum.ch

For serious style, diving and all watersports, waterproof to 600m, The Omega Planet Ocean Seamaster 45.5mm Co-Axial Chronograph, RRP £4,900. www.omegawatches.com

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GENTLEMAN’S TIMEPIECES: A BUYERS GUIDE

A true divers’ watch designed to handle dark depths and the biggest waves, the Zodiac Oceanaire, RRP £699, Zodiac. www.zodiacwatches.com

Solar powered for the environmentally aware, the Seiko 200m Divers’ Watch, RRP £195. www.seiko.co.uk

An Ice Watch available in a variety of eye catching colours and waterproof to 50m, The Chronograph 48mm, RRP £150. www.ice-watch.com

A design set with flags distinguishes this Chronograph from other diving models, the Timex BFD 101 Diver Flag, RRP £175. www.timex.co.uk

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LADIES’ TIMEPIECES: A BUYERS GUIDE

The latest interpretation of this enduring Ebel collection, the Classic Sport Steel and Gold, from £1,995. www.ebel.com

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Lifeline_OV_May:Layout 1 06/05/2010 13:38 Page 1

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Our team of screening experts are bringing high specification scanners to your area. “Through Life Line Screening it was discovered that I had severe carotid artery disease, I had no other symptoms. A month later I had surgery. Now three weeks after the operation, my husband and I are going on our annual three month sailing trip.” J Rudham - Oxfordshire 5/6/09

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LADIES’ TIMEPIECES: A BUYERS GUIDE

Elegant steel on steel set with 82 diamonds and water resistant to 50m, The Raymond Weil Maestro, RRP £2,175. www.raymond-weil.com

Available in a wide spectrum of collectable colours and waterproof to 50m, The Ice Watch Sili Forever 38mm, RRP £75. www.ice-watch.com

Featuring a tide calculator and compass, the practical and tactile Tissot Racing Touch, RRP £735. www.tissot.ch

42 diamonds bring a layer of luxury to the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 37.50mm, RRP £10,200. www.omegawatches.com

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A PERSONAL STORY

The Sea Calls

Ocean View Editor Samantha Scott-Jeffries has never drifted far from the coast. From childhood to the present day, she begins her new regular column by discussing the ever present pull that attracts so many of us to the seaside.

T

aviary of tropical birds and the pomp of the bandstand in full brass swing, was an adventure even before reaching the bustling beach where striped deck chairs and towels jostled for space on the sand. Through young eyes, Studland’s nudest beach was the funniest day trip, and Highcliffe, with its steep steps from the cliff tops descending to the sand, the most exciting; not least when your mother is mistaken by a little boy for Wonder Woman in her bathing suit. Whilst I had my feet on sandy shores, the rest of the outside world and its’ rules didn’t exist. Later, there were school trips to Lulworth Cove to go fossil hunting in wellies on chill autumn days. Backstreets of fishing villages held the charm of smuggler’s folklore and in our teens there were heady parties around campfires as dusk fell over Boscombe beach. The coast had become magical and steeped in history, its draw never too distant, as we moved from home to home, yet never far from the sea. Three years spent studying in an industrial Midlands town made returning to the beach even more of an event, and that childhood dream of setting up a beach hut home, more of a lure. There were the years spent in Brighton, where vibrancy and culture made

its way from the city to the pebbly shore. An emigration to Soller, in the North West of Mallorca, where a wooden train rattled from the market square to the fishing port, leading to delicious late lunches made from the daily catch in a sandy cove. An escape that felt like a holiday from the rest of life with every siesta spent there. Home, is now the Sussex coast with a rugged, pebbly beach at the end of the road as a tonic, a complete escape, a place to contemplate. The old fashioned charm of the small seaside town has not been lost. In fact, tradition is alive and thriving beside the welcome contemporary additions to modern life by the sea. No wonder, then, that as a place to holiday, or a place to live, it endures for so many of us. Life beside the seaside, I would argue, has never been better.

Photography by Grant Scott

he UK could be described as a coastal country. Our island’s furthest point from the coastline in England and Wales is a mere 110km, and according to the Environment Agency, approximately one third of us, live within 10km of it. With fewer of us travelling abroad in recent years, more of us are scurrying to British beaches for holidays, and reports suggest, that the number of us seeking to work, live and take our leisure by our coast, is only set to increase in years to come. So what’s the attraction? I can only speak from personal experience... For me, there are few feelings that rival that of warm sand between your toes. I was born beside the seaside in Dorset and fragmented memories of those early trips to the beach remain with me, like the shells and pieces of sea-smoothed glass that I used to collect from the shore. Brightly coloured nets on bamboo sticks for crabbing, inflatable beach balls too wide to grip between two chubby young arms and stripy Zoom lollies, invariably peppered with gritty sand. The days were long and hot, the sea stretched out forever, and the pitch roofed beach huts painted in ice cream colours, looked like the best place that a grown-up could set up home. We lived in a small town, where my father ran a butchers shop amongst those selling souvenirs and ice cream, and the coastline was ripe for discovery. Trekking through Bournemouth gardens, passed its 62 OCEAN VIEW

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Every day’s a cruise at a Richmond Retirement Village

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