FEATURE Blue mountains
Bluey’s Moderates: a photo essay Dave Bateman shoots ten of the best moderate sport routes
T
he deep valleys and soaring orange cliffs of the Blue Mountains are home to one of Australia’s most diverse climbing areas. From short, hard sport routes in ferny grottos, to adventurous and bold traditional lines on proud faces in wilderness settings, the Blueys, as they are affectionately known, has routes for almost all climbing abilities and tastes. Slab or overhang? Roof or face climb?
Single-pitch or multipitch? Quick access or a more involved approach? The hardest choice is almost trying to fit it into a weekend. Here I’ve attempted to show some of my favourites, some of which will be well-known, some not so well-known. Whether they may be someone’s project or conversely their warmup, one thing’s for sure – they are amongst the best around. Get out and enjoy them.
Jack High (19) In 1986 this route saw the ‘tap tap tap’ of Crunch (John Smoothy) and Mike Stacey’s drill. In 2011 it is still an immensely popular route, in part due to both its quality and well-protected climbing, but also because it’s one of the easiest routes at Shipley for the moderate climber to test themselves away from the Grey Slab area. A Mountain’s rite of passage for many, just get ready to crimp. Climber: Dan Mackey
22 WINTER 2011 | ROCK
ROCK | WINTER 2011 23
FEATURE Blue mountains
Fake Blood (18) Fake Blood feels much longer than its 20 metres. This could be because of the instant exposure experienced as soon as you leave the belay ledge. You can ponder the void below hanging off some of the juggiest and most highly featured rock you’ll find in the Blueys. It offers great exposure out on the end of Heathcliff, but with well-protected climbing at a grade for everyone.You may even want to throw another lap! Climber: Adam Glen
IS THIS description correct for this picture? Exhibition Wall (21)
Stormin’ Norman (18)
Like a bell curve, Exhibition Wall is thin on holds at both ends. A hard start throws some off, but immaculate face climbing up a proud Mt York face is the pay off for persistence right up until the anchor. As legend tells it Exhibition Wall was the first true ‘sport route’ in the Mountains. As such, it has more bolts than the Sydney Harbour Bridge. What are you waiting for?
Although the Dams Cliffs is a bit of a drive compared to most Blue Mountains’ areas, this doesn’t seem to deter many climbers judging by its continued popularity. That’s a good thing, as the area is chock full of mid-grade classics. Of the routes, Stormin’ Norman really stands out because of its engaging fun climbing, including its sneaky crux, which catches some off guard.
Climber: Adam Glen
Climber: Jeff Porter
These People Are Sandwiches (22) Upper Shipley is a super popular sport cliff near Blackheath and with routes like this, it’s no surprise that finding space in the car park can be a problem some days. Like a billboard, These People are Sandwiches hovers over the Grey Slab sector tempting climbers with its proud line up a lovely orange streak of impeccable Shipley sandstone.
The Rift (19) Our second multipitch classic, the Rift at Heathcliff serves up three pitches of tasty, delectable climbing that will have you coming back for seconds. The first pitch starts with bit of an initial crank on the slab, but soon eases off. The second pitch comprises the meat of the route, delivering fine climbing up a lovely orange face. The third pitch is a surprisingly exposed blunt arete. A great route for getting you multipitch systems in place before heading out to do something bigger in the Grose Valley. Climber: Dave Pryor on pitch two.
Climber: Brad Lumb
Old Salt (18) For a climb only 18 metres in length, Old Salt at Medlow Bath is renowned for its continued ability to raise a good pump every time. Immaculate sandstone with some thoughtprovoking moves guard a slopey finish and the chain. It is a great route for hot days when the rest of the Mountains is baking as it offers a great respite from the heat – as long as you can maintain the pump. Jump on the nearby routes of Schwing (18) or Gimme Shelter (19) for some more moderate classics. Climber: Adam Glen
24 WINTEr 2011 | ROCK
ROCK | WiNter 2011 25
FEATURE Blue mountains
This Sporting Life (20) Like its namesake, the legendary JJJ Radio duo of HG Nelson and Rampaging Roy Slaven, This Sporting Life is a story of two very different pitches, each with unique characters. The bottom pitch is a tricky, intricate slab that can test those lacking technique, while the longer top pitch is sure to raise a solid pump. Great rock with the added attraction of having an easterly aspect that ensures it is a welcome refuge on a hot summer’s day when the rest of the Mountains is baking. Superb. Climber: Tanya Greeves on the second pitch.
Deep Freeze (20) The early 1980s were a busy time climbers, when they weren’t listening to David Bowie they were naming most of their new routes after anything related to their idol. Deep Freeze is another Mt York classic by the team of Rod Young and Ant Prehn. It has powerful moves down low, a little rooflet, then a thought-provoking upper section completes the package. It is worth spending some time Climber: Adam Glen
The Go Between (22) For all the popularity of the Mt York region, the Go Between seems off many people’s climbing radar. I cannot understand this, as in my opinion it has some of the best climbing in the region. Found on a pillar of rock rising up like a ship’s bow, the Go Between rewards those willing to try it with perfect crimpers. It is well-protected, so go for the onsight. Climber: Dave Pryor
24 WINTER 2011 | ROCK
ROCK | autumn 2010 25