Schiaparelli Magazine

THE STORY OF MAISON SCHIAPARELLI

EARLY DAYS

The first decades of the 20th century in fashion were characterized by experimentation, new social orders, technological

developments, and the emancipation of women. Between the wars, Paris was the most avant-garde city, attracting artists, eccentrics, and those wanting to live life to the fullest The development of ideas and artistic movements was a part of the era Consequently, it is within this context Elsa Schiaparelli creates her fashion

Unlike other couturiers of these times, Elsa comes from a privileged background Her birthplace was Palazzo Corsini, which is now the Galerie Nationale de Art Antica in Rome Elsa's mother, Giuseppa Maria de Dominicis, was a member of the Neopolitan aristocracy Celestino Schiaparelli, her father, was a scholar of the Islamic culture of the middle ages, an authority on Sanskrit, and the Dean of Rome University This was the environment in which Elsa grew up, and it is through this immersion in a culture that she will make her creations, which would later be evident

The vivid imagination Elsa possessed flourished after she finished her studies in philosophy at the University of Rome She composed and published a volume of overtly erotic poems titled Arethusa, in 1911 In response, her parents sent her to a convent in Switzerland, where she went on a hunger strike before leaving again

In spite of her family's privileged, conservative aristocratic lifestyle, her young self soon felt bored, and she longed to see the world Elsa moves to London at the age of 22 when a friend offers her work looking after orphaned children in an English country home in 1913, marking a true year of liberation for her She spends her free time visiting museums and attending lectures Following that, she met her future husband at a theology conference The couple got married in 1914 and moved to New York

BEGINNING OF CAREER

In 1922, Elsa and her daughter Yvonne Maria Luisa Schiaparelli, nicknamed Gogo, moved to Paris Gabrielle Picabia, the wife

of French Dada artist Francis Picabia, worked in the fashion industry and invited Elsa to become a part of her creative team and introduced her to the fashion world along with the circle of avant-garde artists and other famous people at this time, including Marcel Duchamp, Man Ray, and Salvador Dali.

A turning point would come in Elsa's life when she met the “King of Fashion” Paul Poiret for the first time, a truly memorable couture encounter, which would eventually turn into a lifelong friendship. Luxury, quality, design, color, materials, embroidery, and shapes have undoubtedly ignited her passion

In one of the world’s most fashionable and trendy cities, one must cope with the same lifestyle. There were servants rushing about in her apartment, which was located in a wealthy area of Paris. The rooms were filled with gorgeous furniture and the walls were richly decorated. Because of the friends she met while living in New York, her aristocratic heritage, and her educational background, Elsa Schiaparelli was well-known in the social circles of Paris

Despite receiving financial assistance from her family in Rome, Elsa yearned for financial autonomy Elsa agreed that this was a moment when women were freeing themselves Indeed, this would serve as a foundation for future development in her fashion designer career Having been heavily influenced by both Dada art and surrealism, Schiaparelli's design set itself apart from what was currently trendy back then, causing people to turn their heads toward her.

Her first collection was launched in 1927, consisting of knitwear adorned with surrealist Trompe L’oeil images. To her, the Trompe l'oiel was the art of taking something basic and artistically transforming it into something extraordinary

"Poverty forced me to work, and Paris gave me a liking for it, and courage”

chiaparelli was a talented businesswoman and insightful social critic. However, life changed after WW2,

as she emphasized in an interview with The New York Times Even wealthy individuals aren't spending their money as they once did, and she described them as " a feeble minority"! The truth was that she had relied on old money, at least in France, and that the new customer for her couture was "The newly rich wives of grocers, butchers, and food merchants," as she put it upon her return to Paris from New York in 1945. She certainly did not like what had occurred.

She made the decision to end her fashion career and she shut down her atelier in 1954 She passed away in 1973, aged 83 A new vision of fashion was brought to the world by Schiaparelli. By creating conceptual clothing, as opposed to only looking at its functional aspect, she combined fashion with art Elsa Schiaparelli was a revolutionary pioneer who is still relevant today

Having reopened the original studio in Place Vendôme, in 2012, the house appears dedicated to redefining what contemporary women desire, and what the celebrated creator might have explored in our time The history and heritage are now part of the brand’s key marketing tools

“The past has to be profoundly understood in order to move away from it and extract and reinvent its codes”

CURRENT EVOLUTION

After the closure of the maison in 1954, it remained dormant till 2007 when Diego della Valle bought the rights to Schiaparelli

It was officially relaunched in 2012 at Place Vendôme and Christian Lacroix was appointed as the first artistic director in 2013 Following him were artistic directors Marco Zanini in 2013, Bertrand Guyon in 2015 and finally Daniel Roseberry in 2019.

Although Diego della Valle was the one to revive Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry was the one to breathe new life into the brand and bring it to its current standard of quality and artistic creation Roseberry was faced with the great challenge of bringing a dead brand back successfully It would involve immense risk, resources and effort. As it is well known by now, he was immensely successful beyond what was expected of him His clever amalgamation of known brand codes with fresh new ideas to further the brand and makes it relevant to today’s generation He even mentions “his approach to honouring, but not replicating, the vision of the maison's founder”

OLD VS. NEW: REVIVAL OF BRAND

Daniel Roseberry stated that simply replicating the brand like what it used to be under Elsa, would be “ an arrogant mistake” His reasoning is that the brand was successful because it was a result of the era she was in and the same strategy cannot be applied today. Schiaparelli’s competitor luxury brands that have been alive through the years have had to rebrand and reposition themselves to maintain their standard and ensure their attractiveness to new generations Therefore, Roseberry has taken time to understand thoroughly the heritage of the brand, what Elsa wanted it to be and how he could elevate the brand to be new and appealing

Elsa Schiaparelli’s intimate relationship with art was an important element of her brand, especially surrealism is something Roseberry related to He shared in an interview with Tim Blanks for BOF that for him, growing up in a religious family in Texas, he used fashion as an escape to a fantasy world He regarded Haute Couture as the pinnacle of fashion or something unreal and

unattainable by humans This idea of fantasy and dream can be linked to surrealist artists (like Elsa herself) who aimed to go beyond reality and harness the power of the unconscious or dream-like state of humans As defined by Andre Breton, one of the founders of surrealism, the artists aimed to create with the “absence of all control exercised by reason outside of all aesthetic and moral preoccupation.”

Hence, Roseberry used these values of the brand as major themes in his collections, particularly human body-inspired accessories Examples include fingernailshaped decorations, tooth-shaped pearls, golden breasts moulded onto sweaters and uncharacteristically large ears, eyes and lips These retain the house’s surrealist heritage but at the same time introduce innovative materials (metal, hardware) moulded in unique forms Roseberry understood that the reason for Elsa’s success was her unapologetic selfexpression in her eccentric designs He knew Elsa would have wanted further innovation and creativity and that’s what prompted him to use his own humorous artistic expression for the house

THE DIGITAL SPACE

The digital space is something Elsa Schiaparelli never even dreamt of but it is a huge challenge for the brand today

With the millennials and generation Z gaining purchasing power, they also bring their unique preferences and attitudes to the table Social media platforms such as Instagram and TikTok are essential to tap into these newer generations However, the sheer saturation of information on these sites requires the business to ensure they stand out from the crowd Schiaparelli has only one official social media account on Instagram where all the communication happens between the brand and audience However, they have employed the use of celebrities who have their own substantial audiences to whom Schiaparelli will be promoted to, or digital leads. Examples include Kim Kardashian, Bella Hadid, Beyoncé, Cardi B and Lady Gaga These celebrities in Schiaparelli are photographed on red carpets, at award shows or even pregnancy announcements which become viral due to the sheer amount of people consuming media They also have an audience of largely Millennials and Generation Z on social media which ensures that the newer generations are introduced to the legacy of the historic brand, thereby increasing brand awareness

PRODUCTS & CUSTOMER PROFILE

HAUTE COUTURE, READY TO WEAR, LEATHER GOODS, JEWELRY.

"

Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a creative spirit in 20th-century fashion with her inventive imagination and revolutionary vision on sportswear,

Haute Couture, art, fragrance, and ordinary elements turned into elaborate creations Her iconic collaborations with artists like Dalí, Cocteau, Man Ray, Giacometti and Marcel Vertès became legendary." - Schiaparelli.

In present time, the Maison Schiaparelli maintains and builds upon this unique and elaborate heritage, by producing various items with the same essence of a bold style and timeless allure

From its origination Schiaparelli has designed for powerful women who were independent and successful which is why it attracted famous customers such as the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, and Katherine Hepburn

Now one of the target audiences for Schiaparelli's ready to wear campaign is the millennial consumers, the oldest of them are reaching their peak earning years and will be able to afford luxury experiences The target customer of Schiaparelli represents the ambitious, stylish, modern young woman who is not afraid to invest in high quality, unique pieces to secure in her wardrobe

THE COMPETITORS

COCO CHANEL

There were all the conditions for Elsa and Coco Chanel to become friends: their clienteles were the same, they moved around in the same social circles, they lived in the same city, and they were both active in the same business at the same time Their relationship, however, turned into a bitter rivalry. Coco Chanel recognized in Elsa Schiaparelli the rivalry she had never seen before, and referred to her as “that Italian who makes dresses”

Considering Elsa and Coco's intense competition and Chanel's evolution into the world's most luxurious fashion company, while Schiaparelli remained virtually inactive for nearly half a century after her death, comparisons are inevitable

Fashion is constantly evolving, and those who can't keep up with it will always disparage those who can There is a lot more subtle form of disparagement nowadays However, they are no less significant, whether they are poaching creative directors or hiring the same models. To increase scarcity in an oversaturated post-COVID market, where shoppers value authenticity and distinction, brands must refine their own identity When it comes to reevaluating norms and attracting new stakeholders, brands like Valentino and Bottega Veneta are both fierce competitors

The Roman luxury house Valentino is making a comeback as the most emblematic Italian label of chic and high society. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli resurrected the brand, specializing in couture, Piccioli has expanded the brand's idea of beauty while adhering to the foundations of the maison. Bottega Veneta on the other hand, has erased its Instagram account to build intrigue and desirability

Coco Chanel

Elsa Schiaparelli

OFFLINE AND ONLINE PROPOSAL

Given the appreciation Roseberry has for haute couture and the freedom of artistic expression that comes with it, it’s no surprise that Schiaparelli’s main

focus was their haute couture pieces. These unique pieces worn by celebrities (as mentioned previously), prompted an explosion of interest in the brand. This in turn leads to a commercial interest in the brand Until then, Schiaparelli had ensured to maintain their image of exclusivity by selling a few pieces at their headquarters at Place Vendôme in Paris In 2021, Roseberry responded to the growing commercial interest by selling ready-to-wear pieces at pop-up stores and launched an ecommerce website. Roseberry cleverly used the iconic couture codes, such as gold-plated sculptures, to ready-to-wear pieces such as sweatshirts and wallets. Currently, Roseberry is still maintaining a tight distribution network with only two stores, the main one at Place Vendôme and one at the department store Bergdorf Goodman in New York This is unlike a lot of luxury brands that have numerous boutiques all over the world to ensure maximum brand exposure Schiaparelli on the other hand is relying on exposure through celebrities and high-profile clients through various media channels while keeping their exclusivity

CSR CAMPAIGN

Schiaparelli is currently in development with their CSR campaign as their mass appeal in the market is considerably recent

It is also a complex and difficult task for Schiaparelli to find substitutions It is a brand whose core values are so deeply rooted in specific materials, decor, maintaining an immense standard of quality in their products

At the moment it is too early for concrete examples in their method of working or production, but Schiaparelli is fully dedicated to having sustainability be a part of their process in the future and it is something that has and will need much time and analysis to implement successfully

On the other hand, being a brand with limited quantities of product, many depending on individual orders, the toll on the environment is already not as much as a proportion of their competitors

PHYSIQUE

The signature emblems of Schiaparelli are without a doubt highly recognizable Elsa invented the "shocking pink" color during one of her many trips to India, describing the vibrant and bright color as "the navy blue of India" Another commonly used synonym of the brand is the measuring tape It is frequently used in her Haute Couture creations and first appeared on the Shocking Perfume bottle in 1937 and has been synonymous with the brand to this day Because Daniel Roseberry is cautious to preserve the history and the spirit of Schiaparelli, it is often used with a Trompe l'oiel twist

RELATIONSHIP

A new, upbeat digital communication and social media strategy, along with a diverse cast, have allowed them to redefine and rethink their brand's history It is a sophisticated relationship between the representative staff members and the customers, where they have close communication about the customized garments the customer desires Schiaparelli's clients appreciate an exclusive appointment with private fittings in the house's stunning atelier and showroom at Place Vendome

REFLECTION

The primary demographic for Schiaparelli's designs is high society, intellectual, and wealthy young women. The creations are of the highest quality, and Schiaparelli pays close attention to every last detail while keeping functionality with a twist in mind. The image of the modern, educated, and sophisticated young woman is strengthened by the use of daring vibrant colors, flattering silhouettes, prints, and themes influenced by art, as well as bold, unique accessories, which all allow the customers to shape their own unique style

PERSONALITY

If the brand was a person, Schiaparelli would undoubtedly be a gorgeous woman with a fearless and creative mind She would be characterized as mysterious, intellectual, and out of the ordinary Though her interior consists of multiple layers of vision, sometimes her attitude is perceived as superior and bold

CULTURE

The present goal of Schiaparelli is to develop a vision that reflects the passion for fashion mixed with fine art and surrealistic elements, as well as the desire to stand out from the crowd The intention is to provide customers with designs that are not just beautiful, but intriguing and captivating, as well as creations that connect the target market with the rich heritage of the brand

SELF-IMAGE

They want something that will make them smile, that will spark a conversation This is a winning formula The young woman wearing the unique creations will dare to design a vision that communicates for her before she does

PROPOSAL - NEW PRODUCT CATEGORY

By moving into a different category, you can expand your company ' s portfolio while also generating new income streams that could significantly boost your profits A poorly executed strategy can, however, lead to a loss of investment, time, and customers, as well as a decrease in equity, built up over time

SCHIAPARELLI HOME

Schiaparelli, a brand with a long history of attention to details and in particular a dedication to the decorative aspect of the clothing and accessories they create could easily be regarded as a work of art on its own.

Elsa Schiaparelli was accustomed to interior decoration as in 1937 she worked with the father of modern interior, Jean Michel Frank as well as with the famous firm Jansen. She was able to decorate with her own sense of style and fantasy The roots of Schiaparelli are very much intertwined with that of pure decoration, home decoration that is Therefore, for a new category that would add another dimension to the fantastic and dreamy universe of Schiaparelli would be no better than coming full circle with some of its origins Home decor

DECOR FOR THE BODY DECOR FOR THE HOME

Much of Schiaparelli's intrigue lies in the mysterious symbolism seen on many of its bags, accessories, and clothing alike The avant-garde, gold hardware of eyes, ears, trees and more would be just as recognizable and impactful on a wall or coffee table as much as on a bag or skirt The young, stylish, modern woman who seeks eccentricity and surrealism from her dress on a night out would love nothing more than to feel just as empowered when she returns home

OPPORTUNITIES

Schiaparelli home decor could vary from decorative mirrors distorting your reflection to ornate golden hands which hold your favorite candle A tree that’s fine branches hold your everyday hoop earrings could be placed beside a golden jewelry box with an exaggerated lock only for your most precious pieces The option of turning your most sacred spaces into those only previously found in your imagination would be irresistible to the already established clientele as well as alluring to those who were not already devoted.

Much of Schiaparelli's previous work include brooches and accessories in the form of objects as well as embellishments for handbags and clothing which feature them It would not take much complexity to detach some of these same objects as their own product.

Creation of a new field can be formulated to use sustainable methods

The Schiaparelli universe will be expanded upon.

Unique decor in small quantities can create hype around the brand

SOURCES:

Borrelli-Persson,L (2022)EverythingyouneedtoknowaboutElsaSchiaparelliaheadoftheshocking! exhibitioninParis,Vogue.Availableat:https://www.vogue.com/article/everything-you-need-to-knowabout-elsa-schiaparelli-ahead-of-the-shocking-exhibition-in-paris(Accessed:December14,2022).

“Business of Fashion History – Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973).” Eco fashion talk, December 24, 2016. https://www.ecofashiontalk.com/2016/12/business-of-fashion-history-elsa-schiaparelli-1890-1973/.

Carbon, Sabine. “Elsa Schiaparelli - Fashion as Art - Watch the Full Documentary.” ARTE, 2015. https://www.arte.tv/en/videos/058387-000-A/elsa-schiaparelli/.

Fashion History Sessions. The Surrealist Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli - FASHION HISTORY SESSIONS. YouTube.YouTube,2021.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s 6WYW-fgZ0.

“Maison Schiaparelli - the History of the House” Maison Schiaparelli - The Story of the House Accessed November20,2022.https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/21-place-vendome/the-story-of-the-house/.

Martinkova, Iveta Martinkova “Manual 2 - Schiaparelli Relaunch Creative Strategy” Issuu, January 8, 2018.https://issuu.com/ivetamartinkova/docs/manual 2 bc0da5265e3a73.

Pfeiffer, Alice “Inside Schiaparelli's Atelier: How the Heritage House Is Finding Success Again” Vogue France, July 2, 2018. https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/schiaparelli-heritagehouse-rebirth-haute-couture-bertrand-guyon/51727.