Canoe North Adventures Magazine May 2017 Issu

Exploring Canada’s Arctic by Canoe

Fully-Guided Canoe Trips

30 YEARS

CANOE NORTH

Back in 1987, starting a canoe tripping

years with our expanding

company had never been our plan. We

knowledge of wild rivers.

had just moved to the Hockley Valley near Toronto ... Al pursuing his love of pottery and Lin working as a consultant. Each fall, a newsletter full of stories was sent out to pottery customers ... news about our studio, cottage fun, family times, neighbourhood or canoe trips.

We never anticipated our love of the wilderness would bring us the joy of running a respected paddling company for the last 30 years.

ADVENTURES Little did we know these newsletters

Certain moments have remained in our

would herald the birth of a new path

memories. These moments have built us

Keele River, 2008 Northwest Territories

forward. Suddenly, people said they were

into the company we are today. They define

TAYLOR PACE,

sick of hearing these canoe trip stories

who we will be in the future. Our strongest

AL PACE,

... they wanted to go too! This wave of

memories are found in the backdrop of the

interest changed everything. We enjoyed

stories of our adventures. The variety of

the north so much realizing we wished to

these experiences is broad but the common

share the feeling with others. Canoe North

thread throughout is the feeling of having

Adventures was born.

found a place that is truly Canadian ... one

We started out small, guiding every trip together unless it was a women’s or men’s trip. Our son, Taylor joined us as a porter at 14 years old. The company grew

of its last remaining pieces of wilderness.

The stories encompass all that is grand about meeting with other paddlers and having magical northern encounters.

and grew in size, skill and the heartfelt

We created this book for those people

delivery of wilderness adventure. We

contemplating a northern adventure. So

cared about offering a quality product

they might understand more clearly what a

wanting to give people more than they

northern trip would be like. We wanted them

ever imagined. We found how privileged

to see who this quirky company running

we were to paddle with the people who

canoe trips in Canada’s Far North truly is in

joined in our adventures.

its heart and soul. Hopefully what you see

With growth came our guides and staff.

We are so proud of those we work with on rivers and in our lodge. They inspire us to expand our thinking and consider alternatives. We remain dedicated to paddling, mixing our learning in the early

LIN WARD

will encourage you to take the next step of being in touch to find out more, to research the possibilities of northern canoeing and to take a walk on your wild side. ~ Lin Ward and Al Pace

Coppermine, 1977 Nunavut AL PACE

C

E

LODG NA

Y U KO N

NORTHWEST TERITORRIES

North of 60!

Northwest Territories, Yukon & Nunavut Home to the best wilderness in Canada.

Source of canoeing rivers that will touch your soul. Sounds of the caribou call.

Cries of the eagle, falcon and raven. The watchful eye of the Dall sheep looking from their lofty perch. Quiet meadows with bear tracks, wildland flowers and rocky outcrops. Whispers of whitewater coursing its way home. This northern land invites you to lift her veil and discover her secrets.

N U N AV U T

Well, how is your day going?

Coffee just right? Taxi on time?

And how’s your comfort zone?

Comfortable? Calculated? Cool?

Have you got a wild side?

Do you know it?

Have you startled a woodland caribou?

Have you paddled an untamed river?

Felt the Arctic sun break through the clouds to warm your back?

Or felt the push of the river on your canoe?

Have you felt the tug of a northern fish on your line?

Or bathed in ancient waters that have come from high mountains since the beginning of time?

Have you heard the river’s story?

About her journey to the sea?

Have you ever felt the love in the hearts of strangers?

I think you have. I know you have! I have felt it too. ~ Al Pace

OUR RIVERS YUKON Snake, Bonnet Plume, Wind, Pelly, Yukon

NORTHWEST TERRITORIES Keele, Natla, Mountain, Horton, Ravensthroat, Redstone, Great Bear

NUNAVUT Coppermine, Burnside, Ray

Lessons Learned in a Canoe It’s safe to say that my husband, Jamie

thing was that by the final days of the

and I were at the “Is that all there

trip, we had abandoned the gentle water

is?” phase of middle age. We were

on the inside of the river bends in favour

constantly busy with such things as

of the big bouncy water on the outside

work, kids, elderly parents, meetings

of the curves – with whoops of delight.

and socializing - struggling to find

Riding those waves, feeling the icy water

meaning in all the commotion. So

spray on our face, was more fun than

approaching my mid-life birthday with

any roller coaster ride. Exhilarating!

dreams of Tuscany, Jamie signed us up for a wilderness trip in the Northwest

By far, the important lesson I learned

Territories. I had months for my

over that two weeks was to slow down

trepidation to build. Might I get up close

and appreciate the world around me. On

and personal with a bear? Would my

our last night, when one of my co-mates

inexperience let the group down? Was I

and I were finishing our drinks by the fire

fit enough for the physical demands of

talking about the challenges in our lives,

the trip? Training on the river with our

we looked up just above the trees on the

guides eased my mind as eddy turns,

horizon, a yellow moon was perfectly

draws and lean downstream became

reflected in the shimmering water. It was

part of my vocabulary - although they

breathtakingly beautiful. All thoughts

weren’t yet a big part of my skill set! We

of problems faded – I felt like a part of

were the least experienced paddlers

something much larger.

so whenever we paddled together, we seemed to lag behind. Jamie suggested

I don’t know what I was looking for as

I try just a little harder! Then one day,

I set off that August, but I think I found

out of the blue, we got it. It was all about

it. Since we returned home, we notice

finding the current, allowing ourselves

subtle changes in our outlook on life. We

to be carried by it, rather than fighting

are no longer satisfied with the mundane

it – going with the flow, so to speak.

or the busy treadmill that takes us

Suddenly everything felt effortless.

nowhere. It makes more sense to slow

Great life lesson learned!

down, consider what we really want and set about going after it. Our confidence

Then, there was this issue of confidence.

buoyed by achievements on the river

Here’s what I learned – confidence is

and inspired by others on our trip, we

the sum of good teaching, experience

push our own limits. Brave enough to

and an enthusiastic cheering section.

venture outside our comfort zones, we

I couldn’t have asked for more

dive into new challenges!

encouragement than I got from our wonderful paddling gang. The amazing

Reflections on my Keele River Expedition CATHY MACDONALD

OUR BASE CAMP

LODGE

Bring your fears to me and the flash of sun on water will temper your courage to diamond hardness.

Float your worries on my currents and I’ll ferry them away.

Lose your cares into the tangles of the shoreline’s undergrowth.

Then follow close the lone wolf’s loping along the far bank’s shore, and I will bring you freedom, and I will bring you healing, and I will bring you peace forever more. ~ Susan Gingell

KEELE RIVER

KEELE RIVER The

Keele

Mackenzie

runs

through

Mountains

from

the

majestic

the

divide

between the Yukon and Northwest Territories.

Its turquoise waters wind through valleys full of rugged black spruce with hiking and inviting vistas around every bend. Fast and boisterous, the river has a generous heart providing many options for safe travel. There can be sightings of caribou, moose, grizzly or black bears, eagles and most surely Dall sheep with great fishing for both arctic grayling and bull trout. If we have keen fishermen in the group, it is an added bonus to be treated to a fresh fish dinner! Paddling is challenging but not technically difficult. Very few experiences bring such a range of personal enjoyment, inner peace and the deep satisfaction of individual and group accomplishment.

MOUNTAIN RIVER With six stunning canyons, the Mountain is considered the most coveted whitewater canoe trip in Canada. Its remote setting and lightning fast water with jaw-dropping mountain scenery will thrill you right to the end. The canyons are defined by vaulted sheer cliff walls guarded by mysterious gates. This river flows through magnificent scenery with abundant wildlife, alpine hiking and miles of runnable rapids.

Inviting alpine slopes descend to river level.

This river is suitable for a more experienced paddler looking to hone their skills. It promises glimpses of ancient moonscapes and large tufa rock formations that stand as sentinels amongst the black spruce of the Boreal forest.

The river reminds us of the invitation from this wild land to keep our eyes open. As she drops her veil, she allows us to glimpse the story that time has carved out of this world.

MOUNTAIN RIVER

Silence Coursing through me Golden forever Perfectly soothing Yet thunderous Silence ~ Taylor Pace

Called by Wild Rivers In our lives, there are some of us who always have been called by wild rivers. Our lives have been defined by foamy waves, swift currents running true and the satisfaction of paddling an inspiring set of rapids.

Early on, we learned to understand the rivers ‌ carefully reading the speed and size of the surging waters. Our downstream route found the best lines and with our understanding of paddle strokes, we found the joy of a canoe responding to our commands. We began to love the long journeys that drew us to whitewater rivers and to the simple joy of travelling on watercourses.

Each river with its story of ancient times, stunning wilderness and tumultuous geology encouraged us to paddle. Our strokes became stronger and our skill continued to circle higher and higher. Our longing to camp on the edge of shores crisscrossed with bear, caribou, wolf and moose tracks became a yearning to paddle every year ... taking on new destinations and remote regions. Pine, spruce and aspen of the Boreal forest became our friends.

We found time spent in a canoe helped to lighten the long days of winter. We became obsessed with finding the right river to paddle ... to find the same level of satisfaction we had experienced in the past. We wanted rivers that would bring us delight and the warm feeling of accomplishment.

Our lives are defined by the search ... time spent finding where the best waters run.

Here Here Let the Let Northwoods the Northwoods SpiritSpi

iritKindle KindleFires Firesof ofFriendship Friendship

HORTON RIVER

HORTON RIVER The Horton is the most northerly flowing river in mainland Canada surrounded by vast tundra plains. Perfect for novice, intermediate or vintage canoeists. It has smooth steady current, crystal clear water and a few easy rapids ... for extra fun. Outstanding features are the ancient cliffs with towering eagle nests and the many opportunities to see falcons, eagles, caribou, wolves, muskoxen and grizzly bears. The Horton also has superb lake trout, arctic char and grayling fishing. The tundra is dotted with dwarf spruce trees defining the northern limit of the treeline. Clouds paint dizzying patterns in wisps and the midnight sun barely dips below the horizon. Evening walks on the tundra are a nightly ritual and give you a sense of how small we really are in this vast, barren landscape.

COPPERMINE RIVER This Canadian Heritage River is steeped in the history of the Copper Inuit and the lore of explorers George Douglas, Samuel Hearn and John Franklin. It flows through taiga forest, rolling tundra plateaus and rugged granite cliffs. Sandstone, Muskox and Escape are big volume rapids demanding both caution and expertise by intermediate/advanced canoeists.

Flat-topped mountains are connected by barren slopes and rocky outcrops. Granite cliffs guard the gate at Rocky Defile, a canyon run with class III/IV rapids. Hiking affords breathtaking views of the sweeping river valley and the terraced September Mountains.

Caribou and muskoxen are plentiful. With luck we might see grizzly bears or wolves. This river is famous for its prolific char fishing. A rich archeological legacy offers stone tent rings, meat caches and inukshuks.

I have paddled to the arctic sea I have seen the white wolf And the barrenland caribou I am richer, I am wiser I am more humble I have shared a sacred journey My heart beats strong With the pulse of the river Thanks to the creator ~ Al Pace

COPPERMINE RIVER

Magic is Alive When we were young, we believed in magic. The magic of the first warm day of spring when we could finally be outside with our friends. Of the last day of school when the long summer lay out before our eyes. Dreams of ice cream, hot dog venders, fireworks. Topped off with Saturday night parties where it had been whispered that the guy or girl of our dreams might just make an appearance. Trips, cottages, adventures with our family. Driving in the backseat of our parents’ car at night with the warm breeze coming through the open window reminding us how good it was to be alive. Being mischievous, pushing the boundaries, testing the limits.

Listening to the Beatles, Queen or Springsteen ‌ our parents hearing from their vantage point feeling the whole world was spinning out of control and us listening with all our hearts while our minds saw possibilities we had never dreamed of before. Magic defined our lives making us brave in life.

Along the way, the trappings and responsibilities of growing up descended - covering up our young souls with the complexities of jobs and kids. Our new role became providing the magic for young hearts, a most honourable endeavour.

And yet, sometimes, we could feel that for us the magic somehow diminished. So, came our search for ways to keep the magic alive.

So here is the secret ‌ canoeing is by far the best way to find that long ago time. The rhythm of the river creates magic that feels like those moments when we were young.

Life on the river makes us remember what it was like to feel so intensely, so unfettered, so unrestrained. It reaches deep inside our souls bringing forth not just the memories but the essence of when we were young. Life on the river is simple.

Every day is sorted out - food, a place to sleep, exercise, camaraderie, entertainment. All worked out so that life can be vulnerable, simple, kind and fun. The warm feelings of friendship, closeness and loyalty shared with those who love the wilderness while paddling a canoe.

The mountains lurched up reaching for the sky.

The lichens took root on the barren rock.

Raven and caribou courted on the tundra.

Ancient voices echoed through the river valley.

The sculptor chiseled life out of the solid stone.

The weaver threaded a dazzling tapestry.

The writer struggled to find the words.

The painter splashed colour across the canvas.

We sit amongst the tundra riches Giving ourselves unto the land.

We feel the north spirit flow through our veins.

We venture forth into the great unknown.

We search for the beauty in the evening sky.

Look for truth at the water’s edge.

We capture a moment for now, forever The river teases and taunts us. ~ Al Pace

SNAKE RIVER

Swifts and eddies go hand in hand, The tricks of the river, we soon understand, Confidence growing, we drive for the line, As river, paddlers & canoe are fine So lean on the paddle and flow through this land, The river is forever changing. ~ Jeff Osborne

SNAKE RIVER This is a pristine tributary of the Yukon’s Peel watershed flowing along the NWT border.

It boasts abundant wildlife, alpine hiking, fine scenery and miles of rapids ideal for intermediate canoeists. North of the treeline, we come close to the Arctic Circle where a blend of barren tundra mixes with sparse tree cover. Fish for grayling or trout at Duo Lakes after an epic hike to a mountain peak.

In its upper reaches, the Snake is comprised of a braided fan which make for tight corners and quick decisions before beginning its decent through towering mountains and a velvet-green valley. Painted mountains create a beautiful backdrop. Driftwood fuels evening fires and the smell of wildflowers is in the air.

Paddling out of the mountains, a vast and stately valley swings into panoramic view. This river never gives up on beauty!

YUKON RIVER This river is for novice to intermediate canoeists wanting to immerse themselves in the history of the Klondike Goldrush.

Paddlers find the trip within their physical ability with enough challenge to experience the satisfaction of a wilderness adventure that reaches deep into their soul. The scenery is stunning from ancient mountain ranges to the majestic valleys. Abandoned cabins, placer mines and camps are scattered along the river. It has been a First Nation trade route for thousands of years. Small communities have faded away. The wilderness reclaimed its land. We encounter moose, sheep, bears or raptors. Campsites are tucked into the boreal forest with views of surrounding mountains. It is a magical place in which to pause taking stock of things we hold dear.

We hope paddlers are challenged physically, emotionally and spiritually.

YUKON RIVER

Timeless power where giants walked spirit soaring over mountains with the golden eagle caribou tracks on the shore - quiet communion creator raven watching - talking to me rivers curving, connecting places people past and present people gutsy, open generous seekers skies changing, moving, sweeping, over, around me, caribou, moose timeless power of the north ~ Anne Naylor

Reach for the Sky Life is short, they tell us, but at first we don’t believe them. Then we’re twenty, twenty-five, thirty and somehow we realize they’re right. Our time is precious and instead of hoping for tomorrow, we long for yesterday. But really, there is no tomorrow, no yesterday ... only now.

Between trying to keep up with old friends, advancing our careers, and generally “adulting”, we have so little time. What little time we do have is bombarded with notifications for Facebook, emails, Instagram, Snapchat. How do we live our own lives, when we are so busy living other people’s?

The answer is simple. Unplug, explore, get out there. Live for today and today only. The best way to do that is to get into nature. Put your butt in a canoe and go where you never dreamed you ever would. Into the wild, away from the updates, the messages, the LIKES. Away from the FOMO, the click bate, the threads that leave you feeling bare.

We never know when that dream job will come along and tie us down. Or when we will meet that special someone and have a child, both being our foundation and an anchoring stone.

So before time marches on unseen, and you’re forty, fifty, sixty... go, explore, adventure, reach for the sky, and live the experience you have always dreamed of taking. Paddle your own canoe, not the one that you’re told you have to paddle.

Wildlife

Joy on the river is found in the flash of kingfisher, The steady gaze of the raven, The power of the wind as it makes our boats whisper on the water.

Joy in the wild is found in the mountains where voices are heard, The howl of the timber wolf, the bleating of Dall sheep In eagle eyes searching for the way to take us safely down the river.

Decisions carefully crafted, hearts cared for like a soft bird.

~ Lin Ward

Fishing

Flashing silver, speckled green, A belly of gold, the fish is seen.

The line in the water The bright swoop of laughter, The grins on the faces, The generous river giving her bounty, The thrill of a lifetime, a moment of glory, An exquisite meal, a fisherman’s story. ~ Wendy Cecil

Our senior river guides bring a wealth of wilderness experience to each expedition. They enthusiastically share their extensive knowledge with their canoe groups and they can also entertain a group with tall-tales around the campfire! Our licensed junior river-guides bring advanced First Aid and River Rescue skills to every trip. They are recent grads from university level Adventure Studies Programs and possess remarkable river and camping skills and are eager to share this knowledge. Each Canoe North Adventures leadership team is typically comprised of at least one Senior and one Junior Guide. Our typical guide ratio is 1:3 or 4, and 1:5 with a very experienced group.

Guides

Since many of our rivers are portage free, we can up the quality of our food with fresh fruits and vegetables, and meats, cheeses and sauces.

We are known for the quality of our food! Whether you prefer an alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverage, happy hour is an important part of every day.

Incredible Food

DE HAVILLAND TWIN OTTER

Getting to the River

PILATUS PORTER

Gear

I have been awakened by the sun’s rays Been to solitary places and found company Floated in the air in lazy circles with eagles Seen wild things in the shadows Felt the ancient waters pull on my lively canoe Shattered the limits of my mortal eyes And seen every thread of the wilderness veil. ~ Linda Lesage

Frequently Asked Questions worry

with the most stunning views imaginable.

about the physical requirements of our

Paper products are discreetly collected

trips. If you possess an adventurous

and burned.

Many

prospective

trippers

spirit perhaps lacking intermediate or advanced canoeing skills, we can select the perfect expedition to responsibly take you just outside of your comfort zone.

We provide expert canoe instruction and coaching prior to your expedition and on trip. Keep in mind, most of our trips have no portages. This really limits the normal slogging to a bare minimum! Our rivers have steady current making for light, easy paddling limited to four or five hours daily. We are not blasting down rivers but

Another concern prospective trippers have is bugs. We are happy to report that in the Mackenzie Mountains, there is little or no standing water and so there is very poor habitat for hatching mosquitoes.

You will not require a bug-jacket unless you are joining an expedition into the high Arctic such as the Horton or Coppermine River. On all other rivers, we generally wear shorts and t-shirts and almost never require bug spray.

take our time including two layover days!

Prospective

As a minimum, we ask trippers to develop

trepidation around travelling in grizzly

a daily stretching and walking program

and

ten weeks prior to departure.

respectful of travelling in bear country

Our

company

impeccable

has

safety

experienced record

over

an 30

seasons of adventure travel. We have never experienced a serious injury that required medical assistance or evacuation.

By knowing and caring for each tripper; ensuring they have been well coached with expert instruction; and, by intimately knowing the regions and rivers travelled, we have delivered a level of safety second to none on Canada’s northern waterways.

We carry a Satellite phone with a backup Locator on every trip.

black

trippers bear

carry

country.

some

We

and have developed a comprehensive Bear Awareness Policy while on trip.

Fortunately

bears

in

these

remote

northern regions are wild bears rather than park bears and they have very predictable behavior – they want to quickly exit any area where there is human activity. It is always a thrill and a privilege to see them in their natural environment. If we are lucky enough to see a bear on trip, we generally see only the hind end disappearing at a full gallop.

We have never had a group or individual threatened by a bear encounter of any

You will be thrilled to know that our

kind.

latrine takes the uncertainty and anxiety

carry bear-spray and bear-bangers.

out of the phrase when nature calls.

Our woodsy latrine consists of a sturdy three-legged toilet seat and tidy hole

are

As a precaution, our guides do

Exploring Canada’s Arctic Since 1987

canoenorthadventures.com

A Spectacular Canadian Signature Experience The Canadian Signature Experiences Collection is made up of 190 unique tourism companies in Canada who have proven themselves able to deliver once-in-a-lifetime travel experiences. In the spring of 2012, Destination Canada, the Canadian Tourism Commission, added Canoe North Adventures to this collection in recognition of their ability to deliver authentic wilderness experiences in Canada’s north. This highly coveted membership recognizes the dedication Canoe North Adventures has to encourage a broad base of travellers to experience Canada by canoe, through one of the most significant wilderness regions in the world.

Plan your dream adventure with us! We design guided canoe trips for Individuals, Couples, Families, Schools, Clubs and Charitable Organizations.

NWT Tourism Operator of the Year | NWT Entrepreneur of the Year Pan-Territorial Business of the Year | NWT Lifetime Achievement Award Fellows of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society