expertadvice
INGREDIENTS
Skin’s Superhero
When it comes to fighting skin care concerns, look to vitamin A by Lauren Snow
A v itamin
When applied topically, vitamin A works like a superhero on the skin. It is able to reduce the most common skin care concerns, including acneic conditions, keratosis pilaris, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles—all at the same time! As vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances for slowing the aging process, it was also the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an antiaging agent that changes the appearance of the skin’s surface.1 INCREASING CELLULAR TURNOVER
Vitamin A penetrates the stratum corneum and speeds up the cell life cycle by reacting with receptors inside keratinocytes. It also works as a cell communicator, telling the body to shed cells faster and create healthy new ones to replace them, effectively clearing out clogged pores and sloughing off damaged cells.
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IMPROVING SKIN HEALTH
Vitamin A also works to strengthen the protective barrier of the epidermis and reduces excessive transepidermal water loss. It is credited with improving skin health and repairing the overall structure of skin. At the same time, vitamin A inhibits collagenase, so collagen and elastin production is stimulated, producing firmer, plumper skin.
TYPES OF VITAMIN A
What can get confusing about topical vitamin A is not its effectiveness or its side effects, but how many different types there are. For skin care, specifically, there are several variations available for topical applications—with two main differences as far as estheticians are concerned. There are vitamin A derivatives available to estheticians, and there are others only available by prescription. As a whole, retinoids are a group of synthetic compounds that are derived from vitamin A. Retinoids can be found in many products and are available for use by estheticians, in many over-the-counter formulations, and by physicians.
RETINOL
Most frequently used in esthetic treatments, retinol is stable in product formulations and well tolerated. Finding the optimal concentration to balance the
Retinoid
Function
Application in Esthetic and Medical Treatments
Retinol
Stimulates fibroblasts for collagen synthesis; influences the function of melanocytes, providing a regular arrangement of melanin in the epidermis
Antiaging treatments, improvement of texture, hyperpigmentation
Retinoic acid (tretinoin)
Stimulates cell proliferation, accelerates the elimination of sebum and inflammation, loosens intracellular cement in stratum corneum, and inhibits keratosis
Acne, keratosis pilaris, psoriasis, ingrown hairs
Retinyl esters (retinyl acetate and palmitate)
Converts to retinol by cleavage of the ester bond, and then converts into retinoic acid, stimulates the epidermal cell proliferation, and regulates sebum production
Antioxidant, antiaging
Retinal (retinaldehyde)
Stimulates epidermal cell proliferation; an oxidized form of retinol
Antioxidant, antiaging, hyperpigmentation
Adapalene
Regulates keratinocyte metabolism, increases proliferation, and keeps pores cleared and clean
Acne, inflammation, excessive keratosis
Tazarotene
Regulates keratinocyte proliferation and inflammation; receptor-specific retinoid
Acne vulgaris, psoriasis, photodamaged skin
skin irritation against effectiveness is the most difficult challenge, but levels in esthetics-grade products range from 0.0015 percent to 0.3 percent. Tretinoin The most active form of retinoids, tretinoin is the most prescribed type of retinoid, with trade names including Retin-A, Renova, and Atralin. The most commonly used tretinoin concentration for fighting acne varies from 0.01 percent to 0.4 percent. Retinal As the oxidized form of retinol, retinal is used in many cosmeceutical formulations; however, its efficacy is limited, with mild results in improving wrinkles and skin texture. Adapalene Adapaline is another commonly prescribed acnefighting agent. It works to accelerate the cell turnover process, so inflammation is reduced and pores remain clean to prevent further acne development.
THE INCONVENIENT TRUTH
Vitamin A does some pretty magical things when it comes to improving the skin’s appearance, but it does come at a cost. One of the most significant drawbacks to vitamin A is the assimilation period required for the skin to get used to working harder. Most users report discomfort with redness, skin purging, dryness, sensitivity, and flaking when starting to use it. These conditions peak after a few weeks of use and then lessen over time as skin tolerance improves.
Users can also become photosensitive and must avoid direct sunlight as long as they are using a topical form of vitamin A. To protect the skin, daily sunscreen application is essential, as well as protective layers when sun exposure is necessary. Because of this, some clients may not be ideal candidates for use due to lifestyle choices and employment situations. Waxing is also a drawback for users of retinol, as the skin can become thinner and skin lifting can occur. Not only can this cause scarring and pigmentation issues, but it also increases the chance of harmful bacteria and viruses entering the body. Many times clients don’t reveal they are using topical prescription products unless they are asked directly, so it’s essential to do your due diligence in discussing contraindications for the services you provide. Finally, it is important to understand that not all retinoids and vitamin A formulations are created equally. While vitamin A serves as a comprehensive tool for addressing skin care concerns, it also comes with some unfortunate side effects. For this reason, most prescription-strength products are reserved for physician supervision due to their potency and the need for monitoring side effects.
Note
1. Malwina Zasada and Elzbieta Budzisz, “Retinoids: Active Molecules Influencing Skin Structure Formation in Cosmetic and Dermatological Treatments,” Advances in Dermatology and Allergology 36, no. 4 (August 2019): 392–97, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161.
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