Volume 39, No. 2
February 9, 2018
Commemorating Paul Bocuse BY: Emily White, Contributor
Paul Bocuse, the greatest chef of the century, passed away after a long battle with Parkinson’s disease on 20 January 2018 he passed in the same room in which he was born above his restaurant, L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges. He was 91 years old. A pioneer of modern French cooking, Bocuse was one of the fathers of nouvelle cuisine-a style of cooking that highlights fresh ingredients for healthier dishes. He was a master of innovation with a firm foundation of perfect technique and tradition. His signature dishes told a story, embracing both incredible flavor and imagination. Bocuse had an affinity for luxury cooking, his most well-known dish being a pastrytopped truffle soup originally
worth over $400. Bocuse was full of contradictions, and the world loved him for it. He was a brilliant selfpromoter, stamping his name on everything from pots and pans to his restaurant Les Chefs de France at Disney’s EPCOT, but he had an endearing habit of tempering his boastfulness with humility and grace. He often told his customers that his competition were better cooks than he was. He was one of the first chefs to leave the kitchen and actually greet his guests, shaking their hands and talking with them. His warm and inviting nature was a radical contradiction to the customary pomp and fury of famed chefs in his time. Through openness, humor, and guidance, Paul Bocuse elevated culinary culture to a sophisticated art form. He made
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Paul Bocuse pointing to his famous rooster tatoo.
King Cake: A Royal Celebration BY: Katie Luscher, Staff Writer
Photo of, King Cake, a pre-Lenten dessert for celebration of Mardi Gras.
“Editorial” Cont’d Series
photo courtesy: www.babble.com
It’s that time of year again when millions of colorful, plastic beads are launched high into the air from the hands of elaborately costumed Carnival parade Krewe members. The beads are caught by masses of gleeful, screaming revelers that line the streets of New Orleans. Families, friends and tourists have traveled from all over the United States to dress in traditional purple, green, and gold, and celebrate the unique ‘Nawlins atmosphere that comes alive during the Mardi Gras season. Before the crack of dawn, party tents and ladders are set up along sidewalks and on the “neutral ground” between lanes of major thoroughfares to reserve prime locations for watching the parades that day. Under the tents, distinctly local specialties found in the Cajun, Creole, and French cuisines of New Orleans are assembled: pots of steaming seafood gumbo, jambalaya, and red beans and rice. However, if
En P 4-5
photo courtesy: www.grubstreet.com
“Feature” Remembering the “Jackie Robinson” of Chefs
there isn’t a King Cake present, is it even a Mardi Gras tent party worth visiting? Sweet King Cakes are undoubtedly the most desired dessert during the Mardi Gras season, dating back to a tradition that was brought to New Orleans from France in the 1870’s with the spread of Catholicism. These popular desserts hit bakeries and grocery stores across Louisiana starting January 6th, also known as the “Twelfth Night,” when the Three Wise Men saw baby Jesus for the first time. The King Cake craze ends on Fat Tuesday, the last day of Mardi Gras and the day before Lent. Many consider it a sacrilege to eat or prepare them any other time of the year. The Wise Men are represented in the cake by the use of the royal colors purple, green, and gold, representing justice, faith, and power, respectively. To signify the unveiling of Jesus, a one-inch nude plastic baby is hidden inside each
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“Entertainment” Sudoku, Word Search
“Sustainability” Menus of Change: Cut the Salt
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
September 9, 2016
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alex Talbot LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Emily White Katie Luscher Selena Layton Bailyn Brink Kiana Gilbert Catherine Elaesser
Valerie Goodrich Leslie Jennings Shelly Loveland Jeff Levine Alex Talbot
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
From the Editor’s Desk Dear Faculty, Staff, and Fellow Students, It’s my distinguished pleasure to introduce myself as the new Editorin-Chief of La Papillote. My name is Alex Talbot and I’m currently in the post extern half of the Baking and Pastry program. Starting as a writer and then moving up to layout editor, I’m excited to now take the lead and guide La Papillote into the future. My goal for the paper is to increase the interactions from students, alumni, and the faculty and staff of the CIA. What makes this school truly great are the brief moments of magic, humor, and epiphany. Sharing these moments with the CIA community is a form of celebration and nostalgia. The CIA is also the center of the future of the food and beverage industry. Highlighting the now and looking towards the future, the paper is a platform to generate thoughts and ideas. With a partnership with the Digital Media Club, as well as a new social media program, La Papillote can begin to cover news in a way previously not possible with just the print issue. We can share these moments. We can share these ideas. We can share progress and change. A special thanks to all the writers and copy editors for putting in all their hard work for this issue. I’d like to welcome Emily Palefsky onto the team as the Social Media Manager, as well as welcoming back Alexis Brown as the Layout Editor and Elizabeth Lucinese as Assistant Copy Editor. With this block coming to an end, and new beginnings just on the horizon, I wish everyone the best of luck and happy cooking. Best, Alex
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Alex Talbot, Editor-In-Chief at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to email@example.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Alex Talbot Layout Editor
Alexis Brown Layout Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
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The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit http://ciachef.edu/consumerinformation.
Jennifer Knepper Copy Editor
Emily Palefsky Social Media Editor
Elizabeth Lucinese Assistant Copy Editor
February 9, 2018
Egyptian Gods and Agriculture BY: Bailyn Brink, Staff Writer
Polytheism, the tradition of worshipping many gods, teaches that each god plays its own role in controlling how the world works; this belief system was spread across the globe. Ancient Egyptians, like many other ancient societies, based their religion on physical surroundings. The gods represented and were thought to control those aspects. Certain gods would control the sun, the wind, and even the air’s moisture content. Let us look more closely at three of the Egyptian gods: Osiris, Ra and Hapi. The reason for focus on these specific gods is their connection with the Nile River. Osiris is believed to have been the god of both crop fertility and the underworld. Hapi was the god of the Nile’s inundation, the annual flooding that caused the Nile to wash up over its banks and cover the typically dry land. Consequently, the River’s silt would be deposited upon the banks. Silt is a very nutrient-rich soil, created as moving water slowly wears away rock surfaces; these super fine rock particles are then suspended in the liquid. Silt also contains decaying plant and animal material which produce nitrogen, an essential nutrient for plant growth.
After the flooding ceased and the river receded, this rich soil would be left behind and was beneficial for growing the crops that Egypt needed to feed its many citizens. The people did not yet know what silt was or why the flooding increased the land’s fertility, so they attributed this phenomenon to the work of an all-powerful being. The flood season was followed by the fertile season when Ra, the god of the rising sun, was reborn each day and pulled his chariot across the sky to give the Earth light and life. This sunlight provided the conditions needed for proper crop growth. If Ra allowed another god to accompany him, storms and bad weather would wreak havoc on the fields’ growth. So how does this historical information apply to food’s influence over culture? Well, consider why the people of ancient Egypt believed in these higher beings. The Nile’s overflow initially caused destruction but washed away to leave favorable soil. The weather was unpredictable, to say the least, yet still provided beneficial light. Both of these factors affected Egypt’s food system, specifically the supply of wheat, corn, barley,
OSI Press Release BY: Eileen Larrabee, OSI
The Open Space Institute (OSI) announced that it is accepting applications for the 2018 Barnabas McHenry Hudson Valley Awards. The awards are granted to graduate and undergraduate students pursuing research, leadership, and community involvement in New York’s Hudson Valley. The 2018 application deadline is February 26, 2018. Each year, OSI selects up to four students in the fields of environmental conservation, historic preservation, the arts, and tourism to receive a McHenry Award. Under the construct of the program, students part-
ner with local non-profits and are awarded up to $5,000, with $1,000 going to the non-profit, to pursue a project that will promote awareness about local history and the environment and invoke positive change. The 11-year-old program is aimed at encouraging and enabling exceptional, conservation-minded students to take an active leadership role in their Hudson Valley community. “OSI is passionate about recognizing and supporting young conservationists who share our goals to protect and enhance the Hudson Valley and our appreciation for this landscape’s vibrant historic, artistic, and cultural resources,” said Kim Elli-
pomegranates, and other essential crops that were relied on to sustain these people. In the seasons bearing a surplus of food, Egyptians believed they had the favor of the gods. The surplus, in turn, allowed for specification of occupations in which priests, artists, and scholars could come to power and thus contribute to society and culture. In years of bad weather, the gods were believed to be displeased because people were dying. These fluctuations are why worship rituals were observed and temples and statues were built to the gods’ honor, in the interest of pleasing them and consequently ensuring enough food to survive until the next day. Citations: “Hapi.” Gods of Ancient Egypt: Hapi, ancientegyptonline.co.uk/ hapi.html. The Editors of Encyclopædia Britannica. “Osiris.” Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, inc., 19 Jan. 2018, www.britannica.com/topic/Osiris-Egyptian-god. “Ancient Egyptian Gods and Goddesses.” Discovering Ancient Egypt, discoveringegypt.com/ ancient-egyptian-gods-and-goddesses/.
The egyptian god Osiris.
man, OSI’s president and CEO. “Each year we are surprised and delighted by the applicants, their project ideas, and their desire to improve their communities. We are excited to be accepting applications for 2018.” OSI established the McHenry Awards in 2007 to honor the extensive contributions of Trustee Barnabas McHenry, a renowned Hudson Valley environmental philanthropist and conservationist. Over the past ten years, OSI has committed nearly $223,000 to 42 McHenry Award grantees. Previous winners have worked on projects that educated and inspired residents, often
leading to tangible community resources such as the creation of a walking and biking trail in Ulster County, a local, fresh food market in downtown Newburgh, the creation of interactive educational exhibits about the Hudson River in Beacon, and conducting research on the lives of British Loyalists in Boscobel during the Revolutionary War. Other projects have impacted the Valley through local newspaper publications, academic theses and dissertations, and community panel discussions. OSI has been working in the Hudson River Valley for more than 40 years. The Hudson River Valley is the landscape where OSI
Open Space Institute is accepting applications for Bamabas McHenry Awards.
photo courtesy: www.dailymail.co.uk
got its start and has left one of its largest conservation legacies— protecting more than 83,000 acres in the region. OSI’s work here has created Sterling Forest State Park and Schunnemunk State Park, significantly expanded the Saratoga National Battlefield Park, and more than doubled the size of Minnewaska, Thacher, Fahnestock, and Moreau Lake state parks. To learn more about the awards and application process, visit: https://www.openspaceinstitute. org/funds/mchenry
photo courtesy: www.drewheffron.com
Features Cont’d Bocuse
countless contributions to the culinary world, but arguably his most important contribution came in the form of teaching. In all of his achieved fame and prestige, Bocuse personally shared his knowledge and skills with hundreds of students, creating a culture of mentoring and apprenticeship that continues today. “It is our duty,” he said, “to give meaning to the life of future generations by sharing our knowledge and experience; by teaching an appreciation of work well done and a respect for nature, the source of all life; by encouraging
the young to venture off the beaten path and avoid complacency by challenging their emotions.” Bocuse did more for the culinary industry than anyone before him, but he remained bonded to his roots in Lyon, sleeping every night in that room above his restaurant, the one in which he was born. He taught the world so much, and it is now the responsibility of future generations of chefs to carry on his legacy, drawing strength from the foundations and growing through appreciation for ingredients and extraordinary innovation. photo courtesy: www.wdwinfo.com
Cont’d King Cake
King Cake. Tradition dictates that whoever discovers the baby Jesus within their slice has to provide the King Cakes for the next party. A King Cake is unique in its composition: a cross between a coffee cake and a French pastry, similar to brioche dough. It is baked in an oval ring shape and flavored with a variety of fillings. The traditional King Cake has a simple cinnamon filling, but modern filling options range anywhere from a fruity apple jam to a savory, spicy crawfish stuffed King Cake. The traditional King Cakes are smothered first with a white sugar glaze, then topped with bands of purple, green, and gold sugar sprinkles to represent the three colors of Mardi Gras. There are several bakeries in New Orleans that are only open annually between the Twelfth Night and Fat Tuesday; their sole purpose is to carry on the King Cake tradition. Two of the top competitors for 2018’s “King” of King Cakes in New Orleans are Dong Phuong Oriental Bakery and Manny Randazzo King Cakes. Dong Phuong is renowned for their cream cheese King Cake, whereas Manny Randazzo is well known for their award-winning Pecan Praline version. Some Louisiana locals have such a strong allegiance to their favorite bakery and flavor that they will shun King Cakes from all other sources. My personal favorite King Cake is Sucré King Cake, from the Sucré Sweet Boutique on Magazine Street in New Orleans. They were voted “Best” King Cake by Washington Post in 2011 when I lived there. Their buttery pastry dough is layered with traditional cinnamon and local cane sugar followed by a layer of creole cream cheese throughout before baking. The result is a delicious contrast between sugary sweet cinnamon and slightly tangy and creamy goodness. Any serious student of history, culture, and cuisine
should consider adding attending Mardi Gras and indulging in a King Cake to their must-do list. Experiencing the small city character of New Orleans during Mardi Gras season is an unforgettable experience, like visiting a foreign country. New Orleans is truly one of a kind, a veritable melting pot of French, Creole, Cajun, Caribbean and African cultures. If you can’t get to New Orleans during Mardi Gras season to sample a fresh, authentic King Cake, then why not bake one yourself? Share some with your friends, and celebrate the uniqueness and diverse culture that makes New Orleans an American treasure. Happy Mardi Gras, everyone! Laissez les bons temp rouler (let the good times roll)! P.S. Don’t forget to save a piece for me!
Recipe: King Cake
2 drops green food coloring 2 drops yellow food coloring 2 drops blue food coloring 2 drops red food coloring COLORED SUGARS 1 1⁄2 cups white sugar 2 drops green food coloring 2 drops yellow food coloring 2 drops red food coloring 2 drops blue food coloring DIRECTIONS Cook first 4 ingredients in a saucepan over low heat, stirring often, until butter melts; Cool mixture to 100 degrees to 110 degrees. Dissolve yeast and 1 tablespoon sugar in 1/2 cup warm water in a large bowl; let stand 5 minutes; Add butter mixture, eggs, and 2 cups flour; beat at medium speed with an electric mixer 2 minutes or until smooth; Gradually stir in enough remaining flour to make a soft dough. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface; knead until smooth and
elastic, about 10 minutes; Place in a well-greased bowl, turning to grease top; Cover and let rise in a warm place (85 degrees), free from drafts, 1 hour or until doubled in bulk. Using an electric mixer, mix cream cheese until smooth; Add egg and blend well; Add sugar, salt and vanilla and mix until smooth and creamy; Set aside. Punch dough down; divide in half; Turn 1 portion out onto a lightly floured surface; roll to a 28- x 10-inch rectangle; Spread half each of cream cheese mixture on dough; Roll dough, jellyroll fashion, starting at long side; Place dough roll, seam side down, on a lightly greased baking sheet; Bring ends together to form an oval ring, moistening and punching edges together to seal; Repeat with remaining dough and cream cheese mixture. Cover and let rise in a warm place, free from drafts, 20 min-
utes or until doubled in bulk. Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes or until golden. Decorate with bands of Colored Frostings, and sprinkle with Colored Sugars. COLORED FROSTINGS: Stir together powdered sugar and melted butter; Add milk to reach desired consistency for drizzling; stir in vanilla; Divide frosting into 3 batches, tinting 1 green, 1 yellow, and combining red and blue food coloring for purple frosting. COLORED SUGARS: Place 1/2 cup sugar and drop of green food coloring in a zip-top plastic bag; seal; Shake and squeeze vigorously to evenly mix color with sugar; Repeat procedure with 1/2 cup sugar and yellow food coloring; For purple, combine 1 drop red and 1 drop blue food coloring before adding to remaining 1/2 cup sugar.
BY: Connie K
READY IN: 2hrs SERVES: 28 YIELD: 2 cakes UNITS: US INGREDIENTS DOUGH 1⁄4 cup butter 1 (16 ounce) container sour cream 1⁄3 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 2 (1/4 ounce) envelopes active dry yeast 1 tablespoon white sugar 1⁄2 cup warm water (100 to 110 degrees) 2 eggs 6 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour, divided CREAM CHEESE FILLING 2 (8 ounce) packages cream cheese, softened (16 ounces total) 1 egg 3⁄4 cup sugar 1⁄8 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons vanilla COLORED FROSTING 3 cups powdered sugar 3 tablespoons butter, melted 3 tablespoons milk 1⁄4 teaspoon vanilla extract
Sliced of finished King Cake.
photo courtesy: www.geniuskitchen.com
February 9, 2018
Escape: Part 4 BY: Selena Layton, Staff Writer
The man sighed, turning from the door to face me. He looked down at my clothing and raised his eyebrows. I am dirty and tired, and overall I’m just a mess. “Who are you? Where did you come from?” His voice was both gentle and cautious. I open my mouth to speak but pause. I have to answer him. He deserves an answer for saving me from the security guards. However, if I tell him the truth he might call the men back to get me and take me back to the madhouse. “I-I…um,” I can’t get the words out no matter how hard I try. I tuck my hair nervously behind my ear. My hands are shaking from either the adrenalin dissolving or from being scared. I bring my hand back down from my face, and then I notice the blood. My breath shakes and I take an uneasy step back, but with my adrenalin being close to completely gone I feel the sharp pain in my ankle rise and I nearly fall forward. The man rushes forward to catch me. “Whoa there, take it easy. Come with me.” The man took my arm and carefully led me up the stairs to his apartment. He let me go for a second so he could unlock the door and let the dog off of his leash. He then led me to the bathroom where he started rummaging
through the medicine cabinet. He pulled out a few cotton balls, some hydrogen peroxide, gauze pads and band-aids. “Alright young lady, let’s take a look at that head wound, shall we?” He gestured for me to sit up on the countertop, so I climbed up and watched him ready the medical equipment. He poured some hydrogen peroxide on a cotton ball and turned to me. “Would you mind holding your hair back?” I looked between him and the cotton ball and he noticed my hesitation. He smiled, “I’m not going to hurt you, I promise.” I pulled my hair back out of the way so he could dress the wound above my right eye. “So, have you got a name?” “My name is Audrey. Audrey Moreau.” I flinched away when the hydrogen peroxide stung my skin. “It’s nice to meet you, Miss Audrey, I am Giovanni, but you can call me Vanni. He put a bandage on my head and then started dabbing the palms of my hands with another cotton ball, which stung much worse. “Ow,” he stopped for a moment to look at me. “Sorry, it just stings.” “That’s ok, that’s good though. Your hands got the worst of the fall so your head didn’t. Now, do you want to tell me why you were running and what you were so
Features scared of?” No, I thought to myself. If I tell him everything he won’t want me to stay, but he is being so nice and he deserves an explanation for helping me. “Alright,” I say to him. “But I have to start from the beginning. Is that okay?” He nods his head and I begin explaining. “You see, when I was younger I had a brother, Augustus. My twin brother in fact, but he was not nice to me. He was a bully, always pushing me around and calling me names, and he never got into trouble. Though, despite all of the things that he did to me I still loved him. Sometimes, however, I had to escape reality and get away from him. I would sit on the roof of my house, just outside of my bedroom window, and I would watch the stars and occasionally listen to music. One day our mother told him to find me for supper and he decided to sneak up behind me while I was on the roof. He scared me and I screamed, but I was close to the edge and I thought for a second he was going to push me off of the roof. I got so mad at him. He acted as if it was all no big deal, even though his reckless actions could have gotten me killed. I threatened to tell our mother what he had done and he then tried to play it off, which just made me madder. I told him that it would do me
no good to tell anyway because he got away with everything. Of course he disagreed which led to a further argument, but when he tried to leave I grabbed the sleeve of his arm to try and stop him. He turned around and pushed me and I fell to the roof, sliding to the very edge. I couldn’t move because I was frozen from fear and my toes were even hanging over the edge. Gus told me not to move, that he would come and get me, not that I planned on moving though. He slowly made his way to the edge beside where I was and he told me to take his hand, but I couldn’t. He yelled my name and reached down to grab my hand, but I backed away from him. He had managed to grab my hand still but then he slipped. He held onto my arm for dear life, but he was too heavy for me to hold. I tried calling out, but nothing. I…” I trailed off, replaying the very scene in my head. Tears threatened to escape my eyes, but Vanni lightly grabbed my shoulder. “It’s okay, child. I understand your pain.” I looked up to meet his eyes and he looked as if he would cry as well. I pulled away from his touch forcefully though. “No, you don’t understand. I couldn’t hold him and he fell. He clawed my wrist as he slid from my grasp and I now have per-
manent scars there to remind me that he died and it’s all my fault. I went to trial and I was accused of murdering my brother because I “had reason to” and there were “signs of struggle”, which was nothing more than a few bruises from where he had pushed me and then there was my arm. I was too young to go to jail though, so I was sent off to some madhouse in some state I had never been to before and the worst part? My parents haven’t talked to me since then. They never visited or called or anything. How do you think that makes me feel? Huh? I’ve been in that madhouse since I was twelve. Here I am ten years later and I’ve escaped that prison.” I looked at him with pleading eyes. “Please, you can’t make me go back there! It was terrifying. The people don’t treat you like people, nobody talks to me…I shouldn’t even be there. I didn’t kill my brother.” I could see that Vanni was overwhelmed by my story and contemplating on how much I was asking him. Finally, he groaned, dragging his hand down his face. “You, young lady, sound like trouble.” I turned my guilty stare to my hands in my lap, but I felt hopeful from his next words. “But I’ll see what I can do to help.”
Congratulations @lena.alyce934 for winning this issue’s Best of Block contest! Thanks for sharing this awesome photo from your first day of Advanced Cooking Do you want to be featured in the next issue of La Papillote? Show us your best photos on Instagram using the hashtag #papilloteBoB. One winner will be chosen every issue to be published!
Black History Month
Today’s Prayer BY: Kiana Gilbert, Staff Writer
Slavery A seven letter word And in 153 years All the lines have been blurred My ancestors picked cotton And felt heartache until their corpses were rotten But that wasn’t me My ancestors faced days with fear of tree and rope And had to look deep inside for that little ounce of hope But that wasn’t me My ancestors were sold for a price And tirelessly ran barefoot into the night But that wasn’t me 153 years later I have my own problems to deal with I fight twice as hard to to get the same job And I’m still underpaid Work at the same company for 20 years And I still won’t get the raise I stare in the face of teachers who will Direct racist comments towards me Then to be shaped, molded, and branded Into who they want me to be 153 years later I hear things like “I’m sure you’re pretty without your weave” A black man turned criminal For being allegedly caught with weed Step into a room and the whole atmosphere has changed 153 years later And black people are still enduring pain Can you imagine having to stare down a barrel of a gun? I wouldn’t imagine so Because your victory is already won That’s the difference between you and me We live in the same world But your picture has so much more clarity Apparently being black is a crime 153 years forward And we’re still doing time I don’t have to pick cotton But I have to endure racism by those I’m supposed to look up to And from a family standpoint To be around white friends Is to all of a sudden start acting new I don’t have to fight for a meal But I get my hair touched every day and get asked “Is it like...real?” My ancestors and I have different struggles But the struggles are still real I was born black And that’s seen as a raw deal But black people way way back Wore crowns on top their heads And only the softest material Was allowed to touch their beds We were royalty Once upon a time Now just broken pieces of imagination That I’m proud to call mine I wish I could go back in time Where the world was uncorrupted Black history didn’t stop It was just interrupted This month is not a month to claim Struggles we never had This is not a month where black people can be proud of who they are And in March hide away in shame It is not just a month to remember the history of black people This month is also a prayer for the future It is hope that I have the same chance at a promotion As the person next to me It is hope that we can agree to disagree peacefully I am praying that my sons and daughters Will go to a school where they give respect As well as receive respect I pray that the evolution of equality will take effect This February needs to start the change of how I am viewed To stop listening to black people being killed by police brutality on the news This February will be a new dawn for us The start of our lives without our future being shattered The start of a new age Where black lives do matter
Remembering the “Jackie Robinson” of Chefs BY: Jeff Levine, CIA Staff Contributor
Jefferspn Evans ‘47 poses with student for photo.
Jefferson Evans ’47, the CIA’s first African-American graduate, passed away in January at age 94. He has been called the Jackie Robinson of culinary arts, in part because Evans was a student at the CIA’s original campus in New Haven, CT before Robinson ever played a game with the Brooklyn Dodgers. The New Haven Restaurant Institute—which would eventually become the CIA— had just been founded to provide
training and new skills to World War II veterans hoping to rejoin the post-war workforce. Evans, who had served in the U.S. Army during the war, applied and was accepted—after being turned down by Yale University. The Georgia native served as a chef-instructor at the CIA from 1970 to 1975. He last visited his alma mater in 2014 for a special evening in his honor. The CIA chapter of the Black Culinarian Society (BCS), along
photo courtesy: Phil Mansfeild
with The Veterans Association & Auxiliary Club and The Word Poetry Club, joined together to celebrate Jefferson Evans and his career. Representatives of each student organization said they felt Mr. Evans had influenced them in a different way. Mr. Evans died at Yale New Haven Hospital, in the same city where, as a student, he broke down color barriers and began a successful culinary career.
February 9, 2018
Heritage Food & Drink Review BY: Catherine Elaesser, Reviewer
Heritage Food & Drink Logo
This month, I had the pleasure of reuniting with my freshman roommate from my past university. she is from the Poughkeepsie area, so I was glad that we could meet up while I am studying at the CIA. We decided to meet at Heritage Food and Drink in Wappingers Falls. I had driven past the new restaurant before wondering what the food was like—I finally had a reason to try it. The exterior of the restaurant had a homey feeling of many of the restaurants back in my native Ohio. Amongst the many busi-
undercooked; I had ordered it medium but it came to the table very rare. My friend ordered the smoked bacon ranch burger, comprised of a house beef blend in the patty. It was served on a brioche bun with lettuce, cheddar cheese, bacon, smoked ranch sauce, and was accompanied with shoestring french fries. She ordered her burger well-done, but when it was served, it was well executed-it was not dry. We were too full to order dessert but admired the warm skillet
cookies topped with ice cream that the table next to us ordered. The menu showcases many comfort foods with global influences and seems to have something for everyone. The service was friendly, polite and prompt, even during our late dinner on a Sunday night. Overall, I would be willing to give Heritage a second try, maybe to sample the weekend brunch menu and share another meal with friends.
photo courtesy: Hudson Valley Magazine
nesses along Route 9, the freestanding restaurant had ample parking outside with lots of open space inside the restaurant itself. The interior was very aesthetically pleasing and trendy with a mix of wood and metal furnishings, a white marble bar, and windows looking into the kitchen. The furnishings provided a slightly upscale vibe while still being comfortable and casual. My friend and I ordered drinks to start off our meal. I ordered the Moscow Mule, a drink I often enjoy, and it came served in a
silver cup instead of the common copper mug. The drink was well balanced with the spiciness of the ginger, the freshness of the lime, and the bite of the vodka. My friend ordered a glass of the Sauvignon Blanc which came from the Loire Valley. For entrees, I ordered the Waldorf salad with grilled salmon. The salad itself was a generous serving of mixed greens with candied pecans and apples, grapes, cauliflower, carrots, and a creamy dressing. Unfortunately, my filet of salmon, while substantial in size, was
Smoked Bacon Ranch Burger.
photo courtesy: www.yelp.com
El Guacamole Review BY: Valerie Goodrich, Reviewer
Ever since beginning school at the Culinary Institute of America two and a half years ago, I have been on a constant search for the best Mexican food in the area. I feasted far and wide, from Red Hook to Cold Spring and everywhere in between on Route 9. Little did I know that the best Mexican food in the Hudson Valley was a four-minute shot from campus. My best friend and I were driving to hike at the Vanderbilt Mansion when we stopped at the red light just before the fire station in Hyde Park. While listening to The Strokes, I casually turned my head to the right and saw a small sign with a peculiar, though simple, name: El Guacamole. For one last attempt at ending my search for love and seriously settling down with one Mexican joint, we detoured from our fitness-filled day to explore and expand our stomachs instead. What awaited us inside was a beautiful, brightly-colored room, decorated to make one feel immersed in Mexican culture before the food is even served. The Tejano music played and danced in my head, and I couldn’t help
Tacos from El Guacamole.
photo courtesy: www.yelp.com
but wake up a little more, look around, and appreciate the surroundings. The restaurant is family-owned by the most hardworking, caring, and attentive family. They make guests feel so welcomed and at home immediately after setting foot in the restaurant. It is the kind of hospitality that every restaurant should have. Get cozy at your table and order a mango or tamarind water; both are acceptable moves. Because El Guacamole is everything good and pure in this world, they will bring you complimentary fresh tortilla chips, homemade salsa, and salsa verde. Yeah, this free appetizer is good, but pace yourself, because the real reason you came here is on its way. Alright, not to be dramatic, but this is the most important part. Everything on the menu sounds too good. I might be a bit biased, but I implore you to finesse a burrito. And don’t you dare just say “burrito”, but make sure you order it wet. Yeah, that’s right, a wet burrito. Cheese is melted on top and drizzled with sour cream; get this because you love yourself and El Guacamole
loves you, too. If you’re feeling extra fancy, their mole sauce is better than yours or I’s will ever be, so consider ordering your burrito with that as well. The empanadas are always cooked to crispy perfection, and the quesadillas are griddled with humble love. This is the perfect place to explore your never-before-eaten food choices, because everything will be good. That’s a fact. Only fresh meat and vegetables are used in all of their dishes, so don’t even worry about not feeling your best after a slight binge. El Guacamole is a place you can take a cute date for a relaxed meal with fun memories or go for a little get-together with your group of friends. You want what’s best for these people, and El Guacamole is exactly that. When tomorrow comes and you open your refrigerator, you’ll smile to yourself when you see the leftovers. After tireless work to find the best Mexican restaurant for the good readers of La Papillote, I hope you enjoy this place just as much as all of my friends and I do.
The solution will be in the next issue.
February 9, 2018
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL OF
OUR LADY OF THE WAY (LA MADONNA DELLA STRADA)
SUNDAYS 10:00AM in the Extraordinary Form (1962, Latin) & NOON in the Ordinary Form (1970, English). HOLY DAYS NOON in the Ordinary Form.
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AOS Graduating Class of February 9, 2018
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Victoria Ortiz, Sarah Bobier, Priyanka SardenaĂŠ, Eva Raminez Back Row: Joerley J.D.A. Silva, Kunanuh Lertpisitkol, Chuanlong Jack Xu, Peyton Aigliata, Eleanor Leach, Katherine, Cabaniss, Laurie Borden
Baking & Pastry Arts
Front Row: Youree Kim, Abigail Benson, Sage Birrell, Amelia Stripeikis, Ashlyn Barth, Angelica Martinez, Evie Jankowski, Ciara Hammons Back Row: Yasimin Simpson, Shantel Lane, Nadya Jaquez, Kendrick Hunter, Kerri Harrington, Meng Ying Ren, Yu Hao Wang, Mikala Everson, Hannah Dierner, Madison Cumbest, Hyun Ji Bang
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Damien Chessman, Yu Chuan Kao, March Kersee III, Vito Finazzo Back Row: David Drexler, Luke Raudenbush, John Ctorides, Austin Figeriedo
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Brian Eugene, Xaio Long, Michelle Galemo, Emma Wortman, Kelsey Shade, Alison K. Sprong Back Row: Brett Wagner, Maxwell Hyman, Luciano Borsani, William C. Jacobs, Andrew Richmand, Andrew Jacobson, Siddhartha Mozunden
February 9, 2018
AOS Graduation Speaker: Barton Seaver ’01
Chef, Author, Speaker, Director: Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative BY: Shelly Loveland, CIA Staff Contributor
Barton Seaver is on a mission to restore our relationship with the ocean, the land, and each other—through dinner. He has translated his illustrious career as a chef into his leadership in the area of sustainable seafood innovations. Chef Seaver is a firm believer that human health depends on the health of the ocean, and that the best way to connect the two is at the dinner table. A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, Barton Seaver began his career in food as an executive chef in Washington, DC. He subsequently opened seven restaurants that were lauded for their cuisine and for being environmentally conscious businesses. His many industry awards and honors include a Rising Culinary Star of the Year nod from the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington in 2008, recognition as a Chef of the Year by Esquire in 2009, and his restaurant, Hook, being named one of the top 10 eco-friendly restaurants in America by Bon Appétit. The restaurant served nearly 100
unique species of seafood in its first year. Upon leaving the restaurant world, Chef Seaver became involved with a number of local and international initiatives. In 2012, he was named by thenSecretary of State Hillary Clinton to the United States Culinary Ambassador Corps, a designation he uses to curate international conversations on sustainability and the role of food in resource management and public health. In addition, Chef Seaver is the director of the Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative at the Center for Health and the Global Environment at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health. In this role, he spearheads initiatives to inform consumers and institutions about the ways in which our diet and menu choices can bring about healthier people, more secure food supplies, and thriving communities. Chef Seaver also served as a senior advisor in sustainable seafood innovations at the University of New England. An internationally recognized speaker, Chef Seaver has
delivered lectures, seminars, and demos to a multitude of audiences. His 2010 Mission Blue Voyage TED Talk, “Sustainable Seafood? Let’s Get Smart,” garnered more than a half million views. He is also a contributing editor for Cooking Light and Coastal Living magazines. Chef Seaver is the author of seven highly regarded books, including For Cod and Country: Simple, Delicious, Sustainable Cooking; Where There’s Smoke; and Superfood Seagreens: A Guide to Cooking with Power-Packed Seaweed. His Two If By Sea was the winner of a 2017 IACP Cookbook Award in the Food Matters category. He also wrote two books resulting from his role as a fellow with the National Geographic Society: The National Geographic Kid’s Cookbook and Foods for Health. His most recent title, American Seafood: Heritage, Culture & Cookery From Sea to Shining Sea, is an essential guide to more than 500 species, as well as a riveting history of one of our country’s most iconic industries.
photo couresy of Leslie Jennings
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Menus of Change: Cut the Salt BY: Alex Talbot, Editor in Chief
There are five flavors that affect the overall taste of food: umami, sweet, bitter, sour, and salt (it’s also worth noting oleogustus, which is a taste derived from oxidized oils. While sounding a bit like Augustus Caesar’s long-lost brother, it breaks down roughly to “oleo” meaning fat and “gustus” meaning a tasting). Each of these tastes can be attributed to some evolutionary need that developed in the early days of humanity. Sour can come from rotten foods or acids such as ascorbic acid or pantothenic acid, vitamins C and B respectively. Umami registers on the tongue from the amino acid glutamine. Sweet comes from sugars, and bitters come from trace nutrients as well as poisonous foods. This leaves us with salt. While the term “salty” sometimes describes a group of people such as millennials being stereotyped, it also refers to a flavor sensation on the tongue. Because sodium is an essential nutrient, our bodies crave it much like fat and carbs. Our bodies use salt to support nerve
functions, to transport nutrients across the body, and to help regulate water flow and blood pressure. Not only is salt a huge part of the culinary experience, but it is also incredibly crucial for human survival. When we consume salt, not only does it register as a taste, but the brain also reacts by asking us to take in more. It has a perceived bliss point, the mark where foods contain a certain level of a substance that our brains love. It assaults our brain like cocaine and gives us a feeling of bliss (similar effects are seen in sugar and fat consumption, which is important to remember in the discussion on health. For the remainder of this article, FSS will refer to fat, salt, and sugar). This amount of salt changes depending on the composition of foods. For instance, salt reduces the perceived bitter flavor of food, as in pairing cheese with broccoli or putting spinach in cheesy mashed potatoes. By controlling how much FSS is in a food product, the craving is also controlled;
photo courtesy: www.menusofchange.org
Cutting back salt can improve overall health.
furthermore, when all three are at their exact optimal levels in food, the food becomes highly addictive. This is why fast foods and prepackaged foods are perceived as delicious. Companies have studied the exact moment of craving and use it to keep customers coming back. Also, once guests become accustomed to a certain level, the companies can slowly begin to raise the bliss threshold until it reaches beyond the amount of FSS that should be consumed in one meal on a regular basis. Not only are companies using the bliss point to stay competitive against each other, but they have also inadvertently changed the American palate in the process. After all, if someone receives the same brain blast of goodness over and over again, it starts to lose its punch. Companies then have to raise the levels of FSS to maintain that “wow” moment – a bit like Breaking Bad but legal and rated G. What does this mean for chefs? If a chef is trying to prepare a healthier menu, dropping FSS levels across the board ends up creating a menu that tastes flat.
photo courtesy: www.myjewishlearning.com
People have been conditioned to eat unhealthy salt levels. Their palates have to go through a gradual change to help promote sustainable change in salt consumption and to make a true impact. Reducing salt is as much a cultural change as it is a menu change. With such a long history creating salty food for the American people, the chef must approach the change with, wait for it…. a grain of salt (I regret nothing. Enjoy the pun.). Salt can never truly be removed from the menu, but amounts can be adjusted. Big, bold flavors can compensate for salt reductions. Flavor compositions, like Asian and Middle Eastern spice blends, can provide a real palate pow when reducing salt levels. While slowly pulling out that FSS drug-like goodness, a chef can slowly introduce spices and herbs onto the plate. In this way, the chef can begin to train his guests’ palates towards healthier, and in the end, more flavorful options. This also requires more research on the chef’s side. It requires professionals to branch out and educate themselves on foods
that are perhaps not in their comfort zones. It also forces the chefs to work with individuals they’ve previously sought to ignore. Vegans and vegetarians, while found frustrating to the American kitchen, have branched into an area of food that deals with lower levels of fats and salts. Chefs in the U.S., on the other hand, place heavy emphasis on animal proteins. Therefore, vegans and vegetarians can offer a fresh perspective on how to prepare food that relies less on FSS. If chefs can listen to these groups, they might find concepts or methods that they can gradually begin to implement into their dishes and consequently reduce salt and improve flavor profiles. Eventually, something has to give. Most people will agree that eating too much salt is bad. Most people will agree that salt needs to be reduced on menus. The struggle is how to get from point A to point B. Salt has become a cultural icon of the American diet, and culture is not something that changes overnight. Through gradual change and fresher approaches, chefs can create menus worth their salt.
The break down salt sources from an average diet. 77% processed and prepared foods, 12% Natural Sources, 6% Added while Eating, 5% Added while Cooking. Source: Mattes, RD, Donnelly, D. Relative contributions of dietary sodium sources. Journal of the American College of Nutrition. 1991
photo courtesy: www.medlineplus.gov