November 10, 2017
La
Volume 38, No. 14
Papillote
The Sioux Chef BY: Nicholas Aguilar, Staff Writer
Finds on the reservation, left to right: gooseberries, baby corn, milkweed pods and bergamot flowers, chokecherries and white sage, lead plant flowers and buffalo berries, with a branch of juniper below photo courtesy: The New York Times
What do people think when they hear the term “indigenous food?” What makes something indigenous? Indigenous is described as something naturally in a particular location. On October 23, The Culinary Institute of America welcomed Sean Sherman, who is the founder and CEO Chef of The Sioux (/sōō/) Chef Mission, an organization that believes that indigenous ingredients are the foundations of North American cuisine. Ingredients grown naturally in North America include cedar, pine, sumac, corn, squash, wild rice, and many more. According to the National Congress of American Indians, there are a total of 562 federally recognized tribes in the United States. Unfortunately, many individuals do not know what the indigenous people ate before European colonization began. Sean Sherman’s goal is to not only introduce indigenous ingredients but to revitalize Native American cuisine and incorporate it back
Queen Culture: Looking Back on LGBT Rights
into North American cuisine. In the beginning of Sean’s presentation at the CIA, he shared that he is of the Oglala Lakota, a group that is associated with the Great Sioux Nation located in the American Midwest. Sean was born in Pine Ridge, South Dakota, and started working in the food industry at a young age of 15. After working in the industry for 27 years, Sean worked in many restaurants that catered to specific cuisines. While cooking and working, Sean realized that his colleagues were highly fascinated with the cuisine they were cooking. This puzzled him, because instead of focusing on many cuisines, he thought “Why not focus on something that ties into your culture?” The question Sean constantly asked himself was “What was in the pantry of my ancestors?” This idea goes back to before colonization of the Americas. In order to follow the
Cont’d on pg. 6
BY: Cameron Schneider, Staff Writer
Baby queens hosted and performed in exuberant wigs, flamboyant tights, and underneath a bright spotlight on a Friday night at The Culinary Institute of America. This playful expression of cross-dressing has been a tradition here for eight years. It is the CIA’s not-so-drag drag show. Performances like this weren’t always celebrated in light; but rather in dark, shady venues unbeknownst to the general public and even more so frowned upon. Beyond the glitz and glam of famous venues, such as the Miss All America Beauty Pageant, which in 1967 even Andy Warhol attended, a greater meaning lurked. A human rights movement was gaining momentum. On the morning of June 28, 1969, the Stonewall uprising began. Vehement, abrupt demonstrations by members of the gay community took place and
contributed significantly to gay liberation and LGBT rights in the United States. Marsha P. Johnson, an outspoken activist and drag queen, was one of the prominent figures in this uprising, and took part in creating the Gay Liberation Front, transvestite advocacy organization STAR, and AIDS activist group ACT UP. She served looks and justice. At the small, original Stonewall Inn building in the quaint Village in New York City that Ms. Johnson helped found, and which is now recognized as a national monument, a sign read “We homosexuals plead with our people to please help maintain peaceful and quiet conduct on the streets of the Village—Mattachine.” Stonewall has continued its efforts in improving human rights among LGBT people. This movement wasn’t the first of its kind. In fact, Berlin,
FEATURES p. 3
NYC Wine & Food Fest Giada’s Italian Harvest showing at annual New York event
INDUSTRY p. 5
Foraging Practices
Tips on how to safely collect food in the wild
Cont’d on pg. 6
Papillote
En
FEATURES p. 7
Valrhona Dessert Competition Twelve CIA students assist expert pastry chefs in creating masterpiece sweets
photo courtesy: Cameron Schneider
ENTERTAINMENT p. 9
Forget Me Not
A touching and humourous short story LOCAL p. 12
Cinnamon Restaurant
Hudson Valley Restaurant Week review of a top restaurant in Rhinebeck
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
November 10, 2017
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alison Sprong LAYOUT EDITOR Mike Feist ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Nicholas Aguilar Lauren Bryne Catherine Elsaesser Mike Feist Valerie Goodrich Leslie Jennings April Johnson Selena Layton
From the Editor’s Desk
Jeff Levine Ashleigh Lyons Shelly Loveland Gabriella O’Neil Cameron Schneider Michael Wein Madelyne Woeste
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
Dear Fellow Students, On the cover of this issue, read about two great events that occurred this block at CIA. Also, on page 4, learn more about the student bus trips. It’s a great chance to catch up on the goings on around school in case you missed it. Also in this issue, read about some student experiences at the NYC Wine & Food Festival and the Valrhona C3 competition. Then, read about how a student got involved in our community at make a difference day. Before leaving for Thanksgiving break, you may want to visit Cinnamon in Rhinebeck or Frida’s Bakery & Cafe in Milton. Check out the reviews for these two destinations in this issue. On page 5, learn about how to safely forage, and how to use alcohol responsibly. Two very important topics in our industry. On behalf of the La Papillote staff, have a wonderful Thanksgiving break! Remember, meetings are the first Tuesday of each block at 9:15pm in the SRC conference room. All are welcome! Cheers, Alison Sprong
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at any time on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there is one Copy Editor who reads over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers, due to a lack of time before printing. It is asked that writers trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Alison Sprong, Editor-in-Chief, at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry,
Alison Sprong Editor-in-Chief
Mike Feist Layout Editor
April Johnson Managing Editor
Jennifer Knepper Copy Editor
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November 10, 2017
Features
3
A Look Inside: NYC Wine & Food Festival’s Italian Harvest BY: Gabriella O’Neil, Contributor
Giada’s 2015 event at the Wine & Food Festival
The changing of season and the beginning of the month of October means one thing in the culinary world: the annual New York City Wine & Food Festival (WFF). The WFF has been around for the past ten years, and is presented by Food Network & Cooking Channel. The festival is composed of more than 100 events ranging from seminars, culinary demonstrations, intimate dinners, and wine tastings. Each year it showcases celebrity chefs and
personalities such as Daniel Boulud, Wolfgang Puck, and Amanda Freitag, just to name a few. Huge crowds gathered to raise money to support the NYC Food Bank & the No Kid Hungry Campaign. This year my friends and I participated in Giada de Laurentiis’ Italian Harvest event, located in the Industria event space that sits one floor above Jonathan Waxman’s famous Barbuto. The event showcased Italian chefs, restaurants, brands, and products, and each
photo courtesy: Meade Magazine
chef had a table set up to display their best fall dishes. Some of the participating chefs included Iron Chef judge and restaurateur Donatella Arpaia from Prova Pizzabar, Chef Tim Cushman from Covina, Cesare Casella from Casella’s Salumi Special, and the host, Food Network Chef Giada de Laurentiis. Upon arriving at the event space, we were able to meet and interact with other culinary volunteers, from many schools
and programs located in the city. As culinary volunteers, we all chose our stations to work on for that day. I worked on Giada’s table, where she and her team were serving her take on a “kids” pizzette, or small pizza. Her s’mores pizzette consisted of thin and crispy grilled pizza dough, Nutella spread, chopped graham crackers, marshmallows, chocolate chips and a finishing of salt. It was a truly remarkable experience to work alongside Giada and her team to serve guests. I can admit that meeting Giada, who has always been one of my culinary idols, was a bit intimidating, and of course I was star struck when she picked up my chef’s knife to cut one of her pizzette! Other tables showcased classic Italian dishes with seasonal twists. My friends were able to work alongside Jonathan Waxman, where they served a bean ragu with crispy polenta bites and fried rosemary. Another table served its take on the classic Fra Diavolo, as a Fra Diavolo Seafood Boil. Meatballs, arancini, charcuterie stations, fresh mozzarella and butternut squash, and frozen cannoli sundaes, among many other dishes, rounded out the tasting for the event. Some participating brands and companies included Barilla, Peroni, San Pellegrino, Illy Coffee, and Chef Works.
Guests were presented with a great variety of items to choose from and were able to walk around, mingle, listen to traditional Italian music, and meet their favorite chefs and restaurateurs. Giada and her daughter Jade led the event with a speech on the center stage, and this event was different from others of the WFF, as it was the only one that allowed children to attend. The “kid-friendly” nature of the event drew in a great amount of public interest, and this event was sold out well in advance. Perhaps this will be a new theme within the WFF, creating family friendly events to encourage further participation and interest. Working at the Italian Harvest was a phenomenal learning experience, and it was inspiring to be in a room surrounded by so many people with a passion for Italian cuisine. As culinary students, we are constantly reading about and researching our culinary idols, and being in the same room and learning from them is truly unforgettable. Giada’s Italian Harvest showcased the best aspects of Italian culture and cuisine, and was an extremely popular addition to this year’s NYC Wine & Food Festival.
Uncovering a Cozy Coffee Spot BY: Valerie Goodrich, Reviewer
I almost decided to not write about this place, but for purely selfish reasons only. It has been my best kept secret for years. To say that I am in love with Frida’s Bakery & Café is a complete understatement. To say that I’m one of few people who know the best breakfast spot in the Hudson Valley is even better. I discovered Frida’s when my family was moving me back to the CIA after my externship. Now going to the café has become something of a Sunday morning ritual for my friends and I. We can sit there for hours just talking in the bright, sunny cafe, and we’ll feel right at home. Being family-owned , using only the best-quality ingredients and having top-quality staff is what truly makes Frida’s so great. Everything is made from scratch; from the breads to the bagels, the chocolate croissants to the cake slices; no baked good goes uneaten at the end of the day. The “All Baked Goods Half Off After 3pm” sign helps too! I was seriously craving Frida’s one day, so I went at 3:30 p.m., bought the
best $6 loaf of chocolate babka I have ever eaten, and shared it with my housemates; it was gone within 24 hours. Frida’s also has macarons, chocolate flourless cake, napoleons, and much, much more. It’s not just desserts here either. Omelettes, French toast, breakfast sammies, regular sandos, different daily quiches, and a wide array of soups and salads are also offered. Beverage options include the usual variety of coffees in every form and of course, Harney and Sons’ tea. Once you’ve finally decided what to order, pay, and say “for here” (if you take it to go, don’t even talk to me), you find a table on the main floor or upstairs. Both floors’ walls are painted a cheerful yellow, and you are surrounded with big windows that allow sunshine to pour in. You really can’t pick a bad place to sit, and we all know natural lighting is the best for taking pictures of food. Frida’s is located at 26 Main Street, Milton, NY. Yes, it is across the bridge, but yes,
Frida’s second-floor seating
it’s worth the drive. The average price I pay for my meal is around $7, but that doesn’t include the macaron I pretend I didn’t impulse buy and eat in two seconds. On your way back to campus, make sure you drive along North Road to get back onto Route 9W.
photo courtesy: Vivian Photography
You will pass by the elusive Buttermilk Falls Inn and Spa; don’t miss their beautiful grounds and ponds with swans and ducks swimming around. The family that owns Buttermilk Falls also owns Frida’s, which reiterates the café’s high quality.
Grab your friends, your significant other, or your family when they come to visit and head over to Frida’s Bakery and Cafe. Also, bring me an apple cider donut. I live for those.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Taking Advantage of CIA Bus Trips BY: Ashleigh Lyons, Staff Writer
I am not a huge fan of musicals. Going to see a Broadway show was out of character for me, but it’s all about the experience. Going to Broadway is something totally different than sitting on your couch and putting on Newsies. You may be annoyed by all the songs that interrupt the dialogue while watching a movie screen but when you are watching a musical on stage, they make much more sense to the story. CIA students recently had the opportunity to watch Wicked on Broadway, which was breathtaking. If you go in thinking you’re about to watch The Wizard of Oz, then you’d be wrong. This story is heartbreaking compared to Oz. Seeing Wicked has made me take a chance with Broadway shows that I wouldn’t have before. Fellow Culinary Institute of America students, please take advantage of the bus tours. Let me break it down for you: they are cheaper than traveling by train, a lot less stressful than having to catch a train back home, they give you free time to roam around the city by yourself as much as the planned activities, and no one is breathing down your neck telling you what to do. You are free in the Big Apple for only fifteen dollars. A round-trip ticket on Metro-North to Grand Central and back is $37 off-peak and $49.50 during peak hours. You’re already saving 20 to 35 dollars you could spend on lunch, a new top, the subway fares, and basically anything else that you would like to see. Not enough students take advantage of the bus trips because they have the mindsets of cheap college stu-
dents. What students should realize is that the prices for the bus trips are significantly lower than going on your own. So students of the CIA, go on these bus trips. Spend fifteen measly dollars on being bused in and out of the city. Spend fifteen dollars for a day of exploring and stumbling upon quaint little restaurants in the
Entrance to Wicked on Broadway
city. Explore MOMA, go shopping in little boutique stores, or go to one of the many flea market pop up shops that are all around. Take pictures in front of
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November 10, 2017
Industry
Practicing Safe Foraging
5
BY: April Johnson, Managing Editor
photos courtesy: Frank Kaczmarek, Northern Woodlands
Foraging began as a necessity for humans to survive. Today, foraging is trending as an alternative to buying fresh ingredients. Many Americans believe in “urban foraging”, or finding food right in your own neighborhood. Chefs love to buy freshly foraged mushrooms to put on dinner specials in their restaurants. The trend of foraging is not going away any time soon, so how can we forage? What are the basic
rules of foraging? How do you become an expert at foraging? Today you can forage for something as simple as berries, herbs, or wild mushrooms, or hunt for something a little more challenging like wild game. No matter what you want to forage, make sure you are knowledgeable on what you are looking for. Learn from a foraging expert or buy a plant guide that tells you which plants are poisonous.
Always be careful and alert when foraging; one moment of not paying attention could lead to you picking and possibly eating a poisonous plant. Another suggestion for foragers is to follow the plants you are trying to find through all seasons. That way you know what the plant looks like and can identify it year-round. It takes years of practice and multiple foraging experiences to become an expert on foraging.
When it comes to foraging, there is much more to consider than just making sure you don’t pick a poisonous plant or mushroom. You must make sure you follow state and local laws as well. If you plan to forage on private property, make sure you ask permission before beginning your foraging adventure. Government property like state parks are illegal to forage on. Foraging rules vary by state so make sure you check your state’s laws before foraging. Make sure when foraging, you leave enough of the plant, berry, or vegetable you are foraging so that it can keep growing in that area. Many consider foraging to be sustainable and the reason it is sustainable is because foragers leave enough of the plant for it to continue growing. There are many reasons people forage; to learn more about hunter-gatherer cultures, to experience a new way of providing food for their dinner table, and
to get out in nature. The Sioux Chef talked about foraging during his presentation last month, and stated some of the reasons above for why people forage. To learn more, you can always read his cookbook. You can also pay expert foragers to take you on a foraging trip with them. In 2012, Seattle opened a park called Beacon Food Forest, the largest public space where you can forage. Many communities across the United States are adapting to the trend of urban foraging. To become an expert at foraging, it takes years of experience. If you really are interested in foraging, buy books, read articles online, and talk to the experts. Foraging is a cool way to explore food and where it comes from as well as get a history lesson on different cultures. So, the next time you are looking for a new way to get food, don’t be afraid to try foraging.
for Disease Control, on average six individuals die from alcohol poisoning each day. The Culinary Institute of America, as well as many colleges, provide opportunities to inform their students on the issues prevalent in our industry. However, colleges should not be held responsible for teaching behavioral development. College is all about self-discovery and knowing your limitations. As you
progress in age, you will start to develop a sense of responsibility toward alcohol. And through the guidance of our instructors, students will prevail from the negative obstacles in food service. We as students and innovators in this industry should not ignore the problems within our careers but recognize that they do exist and move forward into a productive lifestyle.
Alcoholism in Our Industry BY: Nicholas Aguilar, Staff Writer
The foodservice industry is one of the most rewarding and demanding careers for young professionals that are passionate about hospitality. Like most careers, there are many obstacles that can be addressed, and alcohol is one of those obstacles. An addiction to consuming alcohol leads to alcoholism, which is a mental illness from alcohol dependency. Alcohol Awareness Week occurred in mid October at The Culinary Institute of America, and this is a chance to not be afraid of the future, but to be aware of the difficulties that are prevalent within this industry. Alcoholism within the food industry is higher than in most careers; per a 2015 report from the Substance and Mental Health Services Administration, the food industry is ranked number three out of nineteen careers in alcoholism. The Culinary Institute of America prepares students for the foodservice industry by teaching them effective time management skills, and how to handle the pressure of being in a fast-paced kitchen. Students get to practice and learn from their mistakes, which promotes growth. The question is; does the CIA prepare students for the complications and frequent consumption of alcohol in the kitchen? Like many college students, those in orientation at the CIA must complete an online learning program about alcoholism in a college environment. The Student Success Every Choice program covers the basis
of binge-drinking problems that arise in college campuses. That is one of the tools the CIA uses to prevent alcoholism on-campus. The question still stands on whether the CIA prepares students for the troubles of alcoholism after they graduate and work in the industry. CIA alumnus Rory Brown, who graduated in 2006, now teaches formal dining room service at the Bocuse Restaurant. He suggested that the school has grown to expose alcohol awareness. When Rory was studying at the CIA there was no online program that informed students of alcoholism. Rory continued to say, that while many colleges, including the CIA, do not possess the mechanisms to prepare students for all eventualities, the leadership within the industry that the CIA embraces means that instructors should guide their students safely by having open conversations about stress, lifestyle, and healthy decisions. With this sense of professionalism, students will make positive decisions that will not harm them in the industry. Students at The Culinary Institute of America get a glimpse of the food industry while working at the restaurants on campus. Rory says that when teaching students about alcohol, he conveys the characteristics and analytical traits in a beverage while also explaining what happens to your body when consuming alcohol. “Alcohol should be viewed as a flavor enhancer when consuming food while recognizing that it’s
still a poison.” What draws workers in the food service industry to alcoholism? The answer is simply the stress and hours worked in the kitchen and dining room. Rory worked in the food industry in New Orleans, Louisiana for ten years. As a worker in hospitality, the stress is only one part of an unhealthy lifestyle and at the end of the night, bars are the only places for staff to go unwind and communicate casually with each other, says Rory. This can turn into a problem when a worker becomes dependent on alcohol. There are some ways that convey that an individual possesses alcoholic tendencies, Rory says. “First is the lack of self-control, which progresses into many different aspects like mood swings and binge-drinking. Second is drinking to illnesses or unconsciousness”. Workers can maintain a healthy lifestyle and enjoy a mixed drink without the alcohol. Rory suggests that mocktails are a great alternative to slow down overconsumption of alcohol. “What’s really in a cocktail are several components and the overall taste can be mimicked without alcohol,” says Rory. “Mocktails provide an altered substitute to recovering alcoholics while still maintaining the overall experience of a cocktail,” says Rory. While many service professors teach the flavor-enhancing effect of alcohol, Rory reminds his students of the dangers of alcohol poisoning. Per the Centers
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
cont’d from The Sioux Chef
footsteps of Sean’s ancestors, he has to refrain from using dairy and wheat flour. In addition, drying and smoking are two main techniques used in Sean’s cookbook, The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen. Commonly-used ingredients in Sean’s cookbook include bison, chokecherry, agave and cactus, as well as juniper and corn ash, which are used to season foods. His cookbook’s desserts utilize ground corn or pumpkin seeds to substitute for flour typically used in cakes. Sean wants to share all of his research and time illustrated in his craft and cookbook. He stresses that there is no “right or wrong” way to cook indigenous foods. When viewing this type of cooking, think of Italy; there are many regions that have different ingredients and cooking techniques. Indigenous people love and respect this land, as well as the creatures and plants that thrive here. Sean wants people to learn and understand the geography of North America and how plants grow here. I am Navajo, and I believe The Sioux Chef
cont’d from Queen Culture Germany in the early twentieth century was an epicenter and revolutionary city regarding gay and transgender rights. Transvestite venues were famed and men commonly cross-dressed. Men wore powder and rouge, while short-haired women would wear tuxedos. Scientists there who were interested in sexuality helped to protect and pursue LGBT rights —like Magnus Hirschfeld, a young medical doctor responsible for the world’s first homosexual rights organization: the Scientific Humanitarian
Mission will promote indigenous cuisine to the community we share this land with.
photo courtesy: Dan Koeck, The New York Times
photo courtesy: The Sioux Chef
Committee. It was a lively time where even police knowingly allowed non-cis, gay venues to function. In New York City after World War One, homosexuality was at times illegal and policed. Despite law enforcement efforts, regulation was difficult with the enormous amount of Prohibitionera underground clubs. As a result, gay culture progressed here as well. All of our queens, despite the playfulness of drag show appearance, have helped continue a tradition that has improved the quality of life for so many people.
photos courtesy: Cameron Schneider
November 10, 2017
Features
Valrhona C3 Competition
Best of the Block Winner
BY: Lauren Bryne, Staff Contributor
Congratulations to Caleigh Yacone (@caleighy_01) for winning this issue’s Best of Block contest! These quiches look great! Do you want to be featured in the next issue of La Papillote? Show us your best photos on Instagram using the hashtag #papilloteBoB. One winner will be chosen every issue to be published!
The Best on Earth: A Veterans Day Tribute BY: Joanna Fuchs, PoemSource.com
If someone has done military service, They earn the title “veteran,” and more; They earn our deep respect and admiration; That they are special no one can ignore.
Our veterans should be celebrities; They’re exceptional; no other group compares. We’re grateful for the many things they’ve done; They’re always in our hearts and our prayers.
They sacrificed the comforts we enjoy; The list is long of all the things they gave. Our veterans are extraordinary people; They’re loyal, dedicated, true and brave.
We owe our veterans support and friendship; Let no one every question what they’re worth. These men and women served us and our country, Our veterans-- the very best on earth.
When terror and invasion were real threats, They showed us they could handle any storm. We owe our freedoms and our very lives To our veterans, who served in uniform.
photo courtesy: veteransinsurance.com
7
On October 23, I had the privilege of attending the 12th Annual International Chef’s Congress (ICC) in Brooklyn hosted by Starchefs.com. This expo is held every year as a way for chefs from all over the country to gather and share ideas and best practices. It is a three-day conference with appearances by Wylie Dufrense, Michael Rhulman, Vivian Howard, Pierre Hermes and Francisco Migoya. The expo hosts several main stage demonstrations, hands-on workshops and four main competitions over the weekend. The competitions included a Wing Battle, VitaMix Challenge, Sommelier Slam and Valrhona’s C3 competition, which was the most notable competition for the pastry folks. One of The Culinary Institute of America’s chef-instructors, Zachary Miller, was able to obtain volunteer passes for twelve recommended students to assist with the competition, and I was lucky enough to be one of them. As I did some research, I quickly found that the three C’s stand for Chocolate Chef Competition, and that it is held every year at the ICC. Anyone is eligible to enter; the requirements this year were to submit recipes using the following template: a plated dessert based on Valrhona’s Oriado 60% dark chocolate and a petit four based on their Waina 35% white chocolate. The next step in the process is for the judges to perform a blind tasting and choose the semi-finalists. Six are selected and entered in the international competition, which takes place every year at the Star Chef’s expo. The judges this year were intimidating in their own right, with input from Johnny Iuzzini, Ghaya Oliveria (recent James Beard winner – Outstanding Pastry Chef, 2017) and Pierre Hermes, the father of the French macaron. The CIA students were split into two shifts; six students arrived on the competition day at 6 a.m., and the rest of the group began at 9 a.m. to assist all com-
The competition’s first place winner was a chocolate bonbon with balsamic glaze and lavender ice cream photo courtesy: The Magazine of Haute Pâtissere
petitors. From the moment we arrived, the competition floor was buzzing with excitement. The competition began at 6 a.m., so the contestants were 3 hours into their process by the time I stepped onto the floor. The lights were bright, the chefs were sweating, and the volunteers were eager to pitch in. For the remainder of the competition, all CIA students were waiting on the sidelines to clear dishes, plug in mixers and run ingredients back and forth to the chefs. Not only were we participating, but we had the opportunity to see firsthand how some of the best pastry chefs in the world operate under stress and build their plates. First up for judgement were the petit fours, which were beautiful, artful pieces. Giane Cavaliere of Volt spent some of her competition time to create her own silicon mold in the shape of an oyster just for her yuzu caramel, coconut pearl and sea salt foam mignardise. The winner of the competition, Mina Pizarro of L’Appart, wowed the judges with her honeycomb and white chocolate bonbon in the shape and style of actual honeycomb. The second-place winner, Yam Lok Hin of Rosewood Sand Hill Hotel, had the most visually stunning plated dessert with his take on black forest cake. He topped chocolate cake with a black cherry mousse swirled in concentric circles. Then, he surrounded the dessert with cherry sorbet, piped Kirsch chocolate mousse, whipped cream and a chocolate cherry with an edible flower. I can verify from personal experience that his yuzu and white chocolate petit four exploded with the perfect balance of tart and sweet. Even though most of us were hands-off during the competition, it was truly a privilege to witness such talent just an arm’s-length away. As a first-time spectator of any culinary competition, I walked away with an understanding of what it takes to participate in such a competitive, stressful event; so stressful in fact that Chef Cavaliere burst into tears after time was called, solely from the sheer pressure of a seven-hour contest. In the end, it was all worth it though, as she walked away with the Press Choice award and a $1,000 check. The trek to Brooklyn was worth it for me, as I met a number of inspiring people that day, was able to taste some award-winning pastry dishes and was blown away by the creativity of every entry. Next year’s ingredient is Valrhona’s Manjari 64% dark chocolate, so find some inspiration, get to baking and try your hand at this exciting competition!
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LA PAPILLOTE
Local
November Newsletter BY: Jeff Levine, CIA Staff Contributor
SGA Election Timeline BY: Student Government Association
Japanese Cuisine students learning how to make sushi photo courtesy: Chris Jue
Second Year of Japanese Cuisine Course Features Trip to Japan The CIA, in collaboration with Suntory Group, one of the world’s leading consumer product companies, launched the second year of its Advanced Cooking: Japanese Cuisine course with a trip to Japan for students just before the start of the semester. The ten-day culinary tour let them experience Japanese cuisine firsthand and set the tone for what the students then studied back on campus. Students and CIA faculty traveled to Tokyo, Fukuoka, Kyoto, and Osaka to learn about topics ranging from soba and sushi to kamameshi, okonomiyaki, kaiseki, and more. The itinerary included visits to rice fields grown for vinegar production, wagyu beef and bamboo shoot farms, the Tsuji Culinary Institute, and the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery. Once back in the U.S., students began their Japanese Cuisine course—an innovative immersion into the cuisines, flavors, techniques, and food culture of Japan. It is jointly taught by CIA Assistant Professor Martin Matysik and Hiroki Murashima of the world-renowned Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka. Chef Murashima also holds the position of Suntory Visiting Professor of Japanese Studies at the CIA. The curriculum guides students through Japanese history, culture, and principles of authentic Japanese cooking as they explore rice and noodles, sushi, tempura, the principles of umami, and the cultural aspects of the Japanese dining table. Students also learn the art of preparing kaiseki, a traditional multi-course meal that is highly seasonal, balanced, and evocative of Japanese sensibilities of beauty and hospi-
tality. As Japan’s rich culinary traditions, techniques, and dishes increasingly become focal points of exploration for young chefs pursuing advanced culinary arts, the course serves as the first phase of a broader Japanese studies initiative at the CIA. U.S. Premiere Of Basque Culinary Documentary Held at CIA Basque cuisine hit the big screen at the CIA in October. The Txoko Experience: The Secret Culinary Space of the Basques is the first English-language documentary film about the food, chefs, and ingredients of the Basque region of northern Spain. It made its American premiere at the CIA’s New York campus. The film was introduced by Basque chef Joseba Encabo, an associate professor of culinary arts at the CIA, and was followed by a question-and-answer session with director Yuri Morejon and scriptwriter Marcela T. Garces. The screening of The Txoko Experience at the CIA came just one week after its world premiere at the San Sebastian Gastronomika culinary festival in San Sebastian, Spain. Txoko, pronounced “cho-ko,” is the Basque word for the unique gastronomic societies and private dining clubs common to the region. The Basque Country features its own brand of avant-garde cuisine and food products renowned for being fresh and local. CIA Students Serve Their Community Almost 200 students from the CIA’s New York campus spread out across the community one recent Saturday for the college’s first Community Outreach Day. The students, along
with about two dozen CIA staff members, cleaned up 20 parks and neighborhoods in the City of Poughkeepsie, and planted daffodils and cleared walking trails in Hyde Park. CIA students have a history of volunteering in soup kitchens and cooking for benefit events. It was intentional to not have this service day be foodrelated. “Our students are used to helping others by cooking,”
says organizer Dr. James Manley, Jr., CIA Associate Dean for Campus Life and Student Development. “We want them to see there are other ways to help and that they can have a positive impact beyond cooking.” Poughkeepsie Mayor Robert Rolison visited various locations throughout the morning with words of encouragement and appreciation as the students helped beautify the city. Students and staff at all
three U.S. campuses of the CIA participated in the college’s Community Outreach Day. In Texas, they planted a community garden for San Antonio, and in California, they hosted a Halloween party to support relief efforts in the wake of the Napa Valley wildfires.
November 10, 2017
Forget Me Not
Entertainment Crosswo rd
A short story by Selena Layton
I popped a French fry in my mouth and nearly spit it out. They were still way too hot to eat. I looked around for a place to sit and found a nice bench right across the road. While I complained about my burnt tongue under my breath, an old lady I didn’t notice before looked at me from across the bench. I gave her a polite smile and she nodded, but she didn’t look away. As I blew on a fry to cool it off, a pigeon walked up to my feet and pecked at the ground. Finding nothing there, the pigeon then turned its hungry eyes to me, or should I say, my fries. Looking at the hungry bird made me feel guilty for eating in front of it, so I gave it a fry and watched it peck away. I heard the old lady beside me sigh hopelessly. She was feeding two other pigeons some bread. I looked back at the pigeon by my foot, who was once again staring at my French fries. I glared at the deceiving bird. “Careful there George. If you don’t give that bird another French fry, he might just take one from you.” The old woman chuckled softly. Did this lady just call me George? Who is George? I’m not George. “Ma’am, you must have me confused with someone else. My name is Nathaniel, not George.” She was smiling, but it wavered for a brief moment before she smiled again. “Oh George, you always make me laugh,” she giggled. The amusement was clear in her eyes, as if I were truly joking. “Ma’am, I’m sorry, but I truly am Nathaniel.” I looked at her apologetically. The old lady only laughed again. “George, you are such a mess.” I nodded my head, clearly confused. “I’m sorry, but who are you, ma’am?” She seemed to be slightly disappointed. “George, quit fooling around. You know exactly who I am.” She saw my confused face and sighed. “Okay, ‘Nathaniel’, I’ll play along. I’m Tillie. Tillie Winthrop.” “Well, it’s nice to meet you Tillie, I’m Nathaniel.” I made sure to emphasize my name. “Well, how do you do?” She smiled at me and then went back to feeding the pigeons. I ate another French fry, watching the bird in front of me as I did so. The bird made a noise, seemingly disappointed to not get another one of my fries. “So, George, how come you don’t visit me anymore?” Despite her lingering smile, her voice carried a sadness that I al-
most missed when she spoke. I sighed at her calling me George again, but his time I ignored it. “What do you mean?” I’m not sure why she would think I would visit her. I don’t even know her. “I know we have been fighting, but I love you George and I do wish you would come and visit me.” The old lady’s eyes began to gloss over with unshed tears. My heart sank for the poor woman. Whoever George is, he’s someone she cares deeply for. Before I could say anything, she continued. “Don’t you remember that time we went camping? We went to that place with the lake and it was so cold outside. We were sitting by the lake watching the stars, and you went in your truck to grab some blankets. You came back to the bed of the truck smiling and you stared at me as you covered us up. I asked you what you were smiling for, and that’s when you first told me that you loved me.” The old lady had a sincere smile spread across her face. I couldn’t help but to smile with her. Her story was so touching it almost made me sad to see that George wasn’t here with her. “That’s a nice story ma’am, but like I said before, I’m not George.” I silently went back to eating my fries and watching the group of pigeons grow. Instead of three pigeons there were now seven, four of which were now staring at me. I dropped a few more fries on the ground for the birds and the old lady beside me once again chuckled. I glanced over at the lady and she was looking at me adoringly. I smiled, though seeming a bit uncomfortable now. “They seem to like you more so than me, don’t you think?” She gestured towards the pigeons at my feet. I looked down where there were now all but two pigeons at my feet instead of the woman’s. “Yeah,” I said awkwardly, “I guess so.” Two men in blue uniforms walked up to the bench smiling. One guy nodded in my direction and I nodded back, as a silent way of saying hello. “Alright Tillie, it’s time to head back now.” One guy offered his arm to the old woman and her smiled brightened. She took his arm in her hand and he started leading her away. “Wait.” Tillie turned around and gave me the rest of the bread she had for the pigeons. “Will you feed the rest of this to the birds for me, George?” “Again, it’s Nathaniel, but sure.” I took the bread from her and she spoke again as she walked away with one of the guys by her side. “Bye George! Come visit me
ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Subprimal from the cow’s inside rear thigh USDA’s biggest food label and certification How to keep meat juicy after cooking Hunted meat Cut of beef from the diaphragm Harmful bacteria commonly found on beef Protein that makes bones great for stock Vegetarian poultry product House with fields for cattle (out West) Type of cut for quick cooking, not braising
Last Issue’s Sudoku Solution
DOWN 1 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
Mineral in meat that prevents anemia Third-best grade of beef Offal meats, in another word USDA process to assess meat quality Name for smoked, salted, or cured meat Smaller cuts of meat sold to consumers Poultry flesh from the thigh or leg Lengthwise direction of the muscle Primary food regulator in the US Meat grinding, pounding, and cutting actions
soon!” I give up. “Sorry about that sir,” I looked over to see the other guy still standing beside me. “You see, Tillie has Alzheimer’s. Her husband, George, passed away a few years ago and she forgets that sometimes.” “Oh,” I felt bad for the poor woman; she didn’t know what she was doing and I kept correcting her. “Well, sorry again. Have a good day.” The guy waved in my direction and walked off towards a bus where Tillie was sitting by a window, and she was still smiling at me. I returned her smile, only this time it being more sincere.
Sudoku
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of November 10, 2017 Culinary Arts Group 1 Front Row: Wonhee Kim, Samuel Ciccarelli, Sophia-Emma Klonoski Back Row: Keonjin Min, Mitchell Rothstein, Thomas Burns, Emerson Krause, Jeffrey Isidor, Scott West
Culinary Arts Group 2 Front Row: Scarlett Geng, Huizi Qian, Lindsay Hills, Eunseo Kim, Soyoung Lee Back Row: Nathaniel Putnam, Brian Pender, David Cruz, Nicholas Polo, Alec Gropman, Oscar Mesa, Emanuele Yagoda
Culinary Arts Group 3 Front Row: Aurora Blanchard, Giyoung Jeong, Harim Choi, Devika Narula Back Row: Jaewook Woo, Nicholas Mathis, Ming Jian Shaw, Christopher Rutkowski
Baking & Pastry Arts Group Front Row: Grace T. Kim, Freny Fernandes, Amy Kim, Casey Luneski, Jocelyn Delgado Back Row: Sarah Levine, Jean Fonvil, Dylan Parkin, Daniel Suarez, Tera Turczyn
November 10, 2017
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Sam Hazen Culinary Director, BR Guest Hospitality; CIA Class of 1982
BY: Shelly Loveland, CIA Staff Contributor
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
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Sam Hazen is the culinary director for BR Guest Hospitality, widely recognized as one of America’s premier hospitality groups. He joined the company in 2014, and now oversees 19 restaurants in New York City, Las Vegas, and Pittsburgh. With a pedigree earned in some of the most renowned kitchens in the country, Chef Hazen has been surrounded by food since he was young. It all began in his family’s kitchen, where he prepared Middle Eastern and Italian comfort food with his mother, and then when he worked in his father’s restaurant. After graduating from The Culinary Institute of America in 1982, Chef Hazen worked his way up to sous chef at the iconic La Côte Basque in New York City under the watchful guidance of famed chef Jean-Jacques Rachou. Shortly after, he served as chef de partie at the four-star Quilted Giraffe. Chef Hazen next headed to London and earned a chef de partie position at Albert Roux’s
three-Michelin-star restaurant Le Gavroche, where he showcased his classic training and further refined his technique. His travels in Europe also included a stage at Marchesi in Milan, Italy. In the early 1990s, Chef Hazen returned to New York City to become the executive chef of Terrace in the Sky, followed by a three-year stint teaching Italian cuisine in the culinary arts degree program at his alma mater, the CIA. He then made his way back into restaurants, first at Cascabel and then at Tavern on the Green. Chef Hazen is also credited with building two influential culinary successes—Tao New York and Tao Las Vegas—while serving as corporate chef at Tao Group for more than a decade. In 2009, he partnered with LDV Hospitality to form Sam Hazen Management, a Manhattan-based restaurant consulting firm whose projects included Lugo Caffe, Local West, and Lucy’s Cantina Royale. Chef Hazen next joined the team at the Michelin-starred
Hours of Operation
Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm
Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
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2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
Veritas, a contemporary American restaurant in New York City, as partner and executive chef. During that time, he reinvented the menu, making it more streamlined, approachable, and accessible. Under his direction, the restaurant was awarded a coveted three-star review from The New York Times just four short months after its reopening. In addition to his work in restaurants, Sam Hazen has served as a judge for the World Food Championship in 2014, made numerous media appearances, participated in the 2006 March of Dimes Signature Chefs Auction, and cooked for James Beard Foundation events. In 2016, he was the recipient of the Corporate Social Responsibility Award from City & State magazine. The award recognizes outstanding corporate citizens from different industries for their work in sustainability.
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Local
What is Make a Difference Day? BY: Michael Wein, Staff Writer
Make a Difference Day, to most, is probably just another cute little holiday like Hamburger Day, Best Friend Day, or Pickle Day, the latter of which occurs on November 14. For those of you who don’t own a Hallmark calendar, Make a Difference Day falls on the fourth Saturday of October, this year it landed on October 28. How do people observe this holiday? What does Make a Difference Day stand for? Well, observers dedicate at least one hour of their time volunteering in community-based activities. The holiday has a website that finds the nearest volunteering opportunities based on zip code. In my case, the two closest events were a fire safety seminar and a trash pickup in Poughkeepsie. Trash pickup is an easy task, and the job was only an hour long, so the choice was easy. I never imagined I would make a new friend and actually get to see a difference, but I experienced both of those things. Make a Difference Day surprises you with unexpected gifts of satisfaction and camaraderie, and those are what make this holiday so wonderful. As I made my way across campus to my car, the cold morning was doing its best to cut through my jacket. I set my GPS to rendezvous at the Poughkeepsie Underwear factory, the event’s headquarters. I arrived to
see plenty of smiles and laughter. There wasn’t a massive turnout, but those who showed up had an aura of warmth and kindness to them, surprising for a cold Saturday morning. Those people were present to help, and I was there to learn why. Why not just sleep in? What drives these people? I went to the front desk, filled out the necessary forms, and received the usual caveat to “leave old needles and broken glass.” I was directed to a kind woman named Basha Nelson; she was small, with silver hair and a faint voice, and she was so delighted to meet a new face. The designated area had been divided into block sections so as to not overwhelm volunteers, and Basha and I were assigned to the same block. As we made our way down the street, we talked about old friends and where we were from. Basha was my guide; she talked about the area, the artistry and the significance of those who helped shape the community. Basha didn’t preach the greatness of community service; instead, she showed me why the service was worth it. We had a bit of trouble finding our spot but we were soon picking up trash and soggy cigarette butts, which unfortunately were often an arm’s reach from the trash can. As we looked back on our progress, I could see her excitement over the difference that
a few minutes made. A walkway led from another grungy city spot to a bright collection of red brick and flourishing plant life. This was the difference, not just in the community but also the shift in my view of the value of such tasks. Basha showed me how to be satisfied with my accomplishments and be excited to do more. She became my mentor, someone cheery enough to push me through the cold-air sniffles and physical effort of bending down for the piece of paper stuck in a prickly bush. I had found my answers about this day; the smiles, the laughter, that’s why people pulled themselves out of bed on a Saturday morning. After doing our best cleaning our area, we
Middle Main neighborhood, location of the author’s work site (circled) photo courtesy: Middle Main
stumbled upon a soup contest. We were complimented on our work and fed some soup. Next we headed back to headquarters and expressed our delight in talking and working with each other. I tossed out or collected trash and bid farewell to Basha, promising that she would hear from me soon. So what is Make a Difference Day? Well, depending on the activity you decide to participate in, it could be a lot of things. To me, it is a day of paying respect to the community that has welcomed you. It’s a day of community enrichment and bonding between friends old and new, learning
about someone and laughing together by picking up dozens of soggy cigarette butts. October 28, was my first Make a Difference Day, but thanks to Basha and the people at Hudson River Housing who hosted this particular event, it won’t be my last. I urge you, even if it is not a holiday or special event: go out and be part of the community. You’ll never know what you might find; you may even end up tasting a cup of soup with a newfound friend. For those of you interested in next year’s event, you can find signups at www.makeadifferenceday. com.
An Evening at Cinnamon BY: Catherine Elsaesser, Reviewer
My favorite way to celebrate is with a good meal. Since my birthday was at the end of October, my friend graciously offered to treat me to a dinner of my choice. I was excited to try something new, but was also excited by the arrival of the Hudson Valley Restaurant Week. This event involves over 200 participating restaurants and runs from October 30 to November 12. The participating restaurants each feature a three course menu specially crafted for the event, with the approachable price of $22.95 for lunch and $32.95 for dinner. This is especially appealing to students, because it allows them to try quality meals from restaurants in the area, with the ability to sample multiple dishes from the menu at an affordable price. We decided to try Cinnamon in Rhinebeck for a warm, exotic meal on a rainy Sunday night. Cinnamon is located on Market Street in the center of Rhinebeck. Entering the front door, the entranceway is draped in curtains that block an initial view of the dining room. The modern dining room is accented with gold and wood tones, with low candles on the tables and plush purple pil-
lows lining the back wall of seating. We were seated at a two-top next to the window, ready to settle in for our meal. The restaurant was busy due to the Sunday night buffet special, but we chose to order off the regular menu. We began the celebration with cocktails. I ordered a fruity gin-based cocktail that was accented with the floral note of rose water. My friend ordered the mango margarita as a mocktail, and loved the sweetness that was balanced with a hint of spice. For an appetizer, we shared the vegetable samosa, which were two medium-sized samosas full of creamy vegetables and served with an herbaceous green sauce for dipping. For our entrées, I decided on the lamb phaal. The server warned me that this was the spiciest dish on the menu, so he dialed down the spice to a midlevel heat for my dish. It consisted of chunks of lamb in a garam masala and turmeric seasoned tomato-based sauce with onions and red chilies. My friend ordered jhinga jalfrezi, which included jumbo prawns in a ginger and turmeric tomato sauce with red peppers and fresh cilantro. The dishes came with rice that was topped
Food served at Cinnamon
with peas and crispy fried onions, however the rice was not enough for both of our entrees, and we had to ask the server to bring another dish. Additionally, we ordered a side of goat cheese naan which had chaat masala spice mix incorporated into the creamy cheese interior. For a sweet treat to finish off the birthday celebration, we shared the rice kheer,
photos courtesy: Mike Feist
which was rice pudding rose water, saffron and cardamom. The pudding was light in texture yet decadent in flavor. Overall, I enjoyed the meal at Cinnamon, but there were a few imperfections. The timing of the meal was a little slow at times, and the servers forgot to pre-bus appetizer plates before entrées arrived. Additionally,
the lamb in my dish was a little tough, but the delicious flavors of the dish more than compensated for the texture of the meat. Cinnamon is participating in Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, so stop in for a meal and give the exotic flavors and elegant setting a try.