Stitch 缝: Mending Clothing Landscapes 改建鸳鸯池商业中心

STITCH Mending Clothing Landscapes

By Lam Jun Yuan Thesis Supervisor Dr Johannes Widodo

Architectural Design Research submitted to t he DEPARTMENT OF ARCHITECTURE in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARCHITECTURE at the NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF SINGAPORE presented on the Decmber 2019- May 2020

Contents PREFACE 衣衣不舍 ...................................................................................................................... 4 Research Methodology................................................................................................................... 5 CHAPTER ONE............................................................................................................................. 6 Threading the Past and Present of the Clothing Industry ......................................................... 6 Shifting and development of World Textile Centres ................................................................... 7 Brief history of Modern Textile and Apparel Industry in China ................................................. 8 Distribution of Textile and Apparel Industry cluster and Featured Cities in China .................. 10 China’s Apparel Market Trends ................................................................................................. 12 Development of Textile Industry Clusters in Port Cities across Fujian ..................................... 13 CHAPTER TWO.......................................................................................................................... 17 The Rise and Fall of Quanzhou................................................................................................... 17 Modern Development of Quanzhou- Quanzhou Model............................................................. 20 Shishi City ..................................................................................................................................... 21 History of Shishi Textile and Apparel Industry ......................................................................... 22 CHAPTER 3 ................................................................................................................................. 27 Yuanyang Lake............................................................................................................................. 27 Statement of Significance............................................................................................................. 27 Shishi Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre ............................................................................... 29 CHAPTER 4.1 .............................................................................................................................. 42 Mending Clothing Landscapes.................................................................................................... 42 Adaptive reuse of Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre............................................................. 44 CHAPTER 4.2 .............................................................................................................................. 48 Mending Clothing Landscapes.................................................................................................... 48 Tables and Charts ........................................................................................................................ 72 Bibliography ................................................................................................................................. 75

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Special Thanks to: Professor Johannes Widodo for allowing me to explore a topic that is of my own interest and to help create this thesis that I can proudly say is a unique collaboration from the two of us.

Professor Chen Yu for spending time talking to me throughout this process, for giving me the inspiration and educating us the knowledge of the overseas Chinese; and mostly importantly introducing me to the site. This thesis wouldn’t be possible without your input. 吴峰博士 for being the most wonderful representation and host of Quanzhou, for the delicious meals and for introducing to many people in the textile industry, making me feel like home in a foreign land. 谢天坝先生 for being the most approachable and humble businessman, providing insights, experience and history behind the textile industry of Shishi City and Fujian. 黄伟哲先生 for showing me another side of Shishi City that is otherwise forgotten by me due to my bias research. 马瑞婷女士 for being the bridge between me and the stories behind Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre.

Last but not least, my friends and family.

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PREFACE 衣衣不舍 How we dress determines, at least in part, how the world is used.-Kate Fletcher 1 How we dress communicates and expresses a lot about us. This does not naturally imply whether a person cares about fashion but rather how we dress reflects our consciousness and subconsciousness. In this capitalistic world, how we choose to clothe ourselves and why we clothe ourselves has strong economic, social and environmental implications.

Historically, clothing is handmade. Each piece of clothing tells a story about its maker, its materials and its location. It was also a communicator of culture as people travels and brings their unique textiles across the world through trading and export. Foreign visitors, on their departure, always carry away with them, the priceless treasure and cultural clothing.

As the production of textile and clothing became industrialised, this paradigm shifts in the way that clothing is being produced and marketed directly impacts the way we consume fashion and clothing.

On top of this, we are losing the skill to make and to mend our clothes. Sewing is an essential life skill that we could all learn to extend the longevity of our clothes and should not be a skill that is limited to women or workers. Now all we see is the finished product, a piece of clothing which cannot last, a piece of negligible cloth with decreasing value as we wear. It is depressing that the more we consume, the less we are concern about the clothes itself.

The thesis is concern about the spaces where people interacts through the making and distribution of clothing. From domestic family-owned factories to large high-tech industries; from custom atelier, small boutiques to large retail malls. As the world and consumer behaviour changes, what would happen to the future of these landscapes and what are the future possibilities?

The thesis speculates that by investigating how and where clothing is being made and how it travels and communicates, we can redefine the idea of a “factory”, rejuvenate our clothing and retail landscapes where having this knowledge, access and connection with the making of clothes extends the usership of our clothes and facilitates meaningful human interactions between people.

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Kate Fletcher is a fashion and sustainability pioneer, design activist, writer, nature enthusiast and research professor.

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Research Methodology

The research started by analysing the systems and activities revolving around the making and distribution of textile and apparels. These information were mapped at various scales and locations across time.

As the development of the industry is closely related to trade and history, the thesis also investigates the industrial and cultural heritage of textile and apparel industry as well as the old trade routes where movement of raw materials, textile, clothing and exchanging of cultures take place.

Quanzhou, Fujian in China being the main the hub between inland and maritime silk routes thus became the anchor for the research and main region of interest.

The research adopts a series of analysis on historical events and graphical mapping of various scales to show a pattern of morphology, sociology in the textile development in China together with the development of Belt and Road Initiative (BRI) from old silk routes (including land and maritime silk road). .

Objective Textile and apparel industry is one of the main driving forces for China’s economy and the development of the industry is closely related to the retail and fashion industry, giving this commodity a strong implication to the both the urban and natural environment. The objective of this study is to trace the formation of featured industry clusters and unique production chain especially those that affects the development of small towns and cities to further inform what can be done to better the connection between the public and the industry, repairing the relationship between buyer and seller and forging better retail experiences as well as the sustainability of the industry.

Scope The study broadly looks at various textile industries that produces and not limited to wool, yarn, cotton, silk, modern materials) as well as various apparel industries.

Although silk was the main commodity that was manufactured and traded along the silk road and took up a major chapter in the history of Chinese Textile, the research does not dwell on Sericulture but looking at the entire industry as a whole in China.

Limitations As the existing issues regarding the industry is large and complex. The thesis do not address social issues pertaining to the industry. Such as the and health/psychological issues in the factory environment. As well as exploitation of workers, issues such as underpaying, overworking and child labour.

Other issues that were related to but not specifically to retail and fashion industry such as cultural appropriation, imitation were not within the scope of this thesis.

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CHAPTER ONE Threading the Past and Present of the Clothing Industry

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Shifting and development of World Textile Centres The Textile and Apparel Industry (T&A) is one of the oldest industries of mankind. With the unequal advancement of technology and unbalanced development of the global economy, the T&A has undergone profound changes.

Handmade The textile and apparel industry can be traced back to the agriculture society where textile is hand-woven. Across the globe, most workshops at that time were family-owned and self-sufficient. China and India had the longest history in the spinning, weaving and processing of textile, exporting silk and cotton textiles respectively to the rest of the world. Making them one of the world’s first textile production centres.

First Shift: Industrial Revolution in UK The first industrialisation of textile began in Europe led by the United Kingdom. This brings textile production from the handwoven stage to the mechanical. The invention of the shuttle and a series of spinning machines quickly improved the production efficiency. The establishment of the textile factory made the textile production transition from the hand workshop to the industrial production stage.

During this period, the production center of the world textile industry moved from the eastern countries headed by China to the western countries headed by the United Kingdom.

Second Shift: Modern textile stage after the Second World War After the Second World War to the 1990s, textile equipment and textile technology continued to improve and became more advance. The invention of modern ring spinning machines and automatic weaving machines and the advent of non-woven technology have made a qualitative breakthrough in textile production. In particular, the emergence and development of chemical fibres have changed the limits of natural raw materials that once rely entirely on agriculture in the past. During this period, developed countries such as the United States, Germany, and Japan became the world's textile powers.

However, in the 1960s, the textile industry industrial center moved from the United States, Japan and Western Europe to new industrialized countries and regions in Asia, such as South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, etc due to low labour cost and huge market capacity.

Since the 1990s, the textile industry structure has been continuously upgraded, and the scope of application of products has been expanding. The textile industry in developed countries has shifted from labour-intensive to capital-intensive industries and has gradually shifted to tertiary and quaternary industries.

Third Shift: 20th century Since China joined WTO in 2001, it has reclaimed its position as the world textile center. While developed countries in South East Asia threatens its position in recent years due to relatively high cotton cost, increasing labour cost and domestic issues.

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Brief history of Modern Textile and Apparel Industry in China 2 1870s

Post WWI 1949 Peoples Republic of China 1949, Chinese Industrialisation

Five Year Plan (1950 – 1955) 1960s

1949- 1978

1970s

1979 1984

Chen Qi Yuan built up the first textile factory called Ji Chang Long Reeling Mill in China.

During the following years until 1949, the textile industry developed slowly as the society was very unstable and China had witnessed many wars over many years Many mill owners packed their bags and moved their operations to Hong Kong to survive, allowing the next stage of development to take place in Hong Kong.

After Japan's retreat, the Chinese government took over 40 mills and incorporated them into the Chinese Textile Industries Corporation (CTIC), arguing that government management would get the mills running again most quickly.

The government wanted the mills to clothe the army and to produce enough profit to reduce the government budget deficit. It also wanted to organize the mills to take over markets formerly supplied by Japan and to alleviate the clothing shortage in China and thus take over the domestic textile market. Ultimately this resulted in the government controlling 50% of China's textile industry.

However, one of the actual reasons these mills were more efficient was because the Japanese had maintained the equipment in their mills well during the war. Yet even with easier access to capital, the government made no moves to expand its mills, indicating a lack of desire to invest but rather a desire to reap profits In order to increase domestic supply to satisfy internal demand, the new Chinese government devoted a lot of resources and attention to the development of the domestic textile and clothing industry in its first Five Year Plan.

China began to develop its synthetic fibre industry especially out of polyvinyl alcohol and acrylic fibres. Four large plants including Shanghai Petrochemical Plant, Liaoyang Petrochemical Fibbers Plant, Tianjin Chemical Fibbers Plant and Sichuan Vinylon 3 Plant were set up and their joint annual production capacity of chemical fabrics was 650,000 tons.

China’s textile and clothing industry had transformed from an old style into a modern industry. However, under the social planning economic system, like all other industries in China, this industry could not develop into a competitive one, especially on the world market.

“Six Priorities” to promote the textile and clothing industry. supply of raw 4 materials, fuel and power; innovation and its transformation and infrastructure construction; bank loans; foreign exchange, imported foreign advanced technology and transportation Open Door Policy and economic reforms The first four special economic zones were created in 1980 in south-eastern coastal China and consisted of what were then the small cities of Shenzhen, Zhuhai, and Shantou in Guangdong province and Xiamen (Amoy) in Fujian province.

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Larry D. Qiu, “China’s Textile and Clothing Industry,” (2005): 2-10. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/93d0/6d441a208cc6b6cb894b5b171b8a70e4471c.pdf) 3 Vinylon, also known as Vinalon, is a synthetic fiber produced from polyvinyl alcohol, using anthracite and limestone as raw materials. Vinylon was first developed in Japan in 1939 by Ichiro Sakurada, Ri Sung Gi, and H. Kawakami.

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2001

2003

Textile Restructuring and Revitalization Plan in 2009

2013/2015

2012-

In 1984 opened 14 larger and older cities along the coast to foreign trade and investment. These “open” cities offered foreign investors much the same incentives as in the special economic zones, but their corporate income taxes were higher Since China’s accession to the World Trade Organization (WTO) in December 2001, China’s textile and apparel (T&A) exports have grown by more than 40 percent and China’s cotton consumption has grown by 34 percent.

By 1997 and 1999, former European colonies of Hong Kong and Macau became special administrative regions of China.

By the end of 2003, China had nearly doubled its share of world T&A exports in less than a decade, to about 21 percent. T&A exports from China and other developing countries are constrained by quotas originally implemented by developed countries under the Multifibre Arrangement (MFA).

To promote industrial transfer and optimise regional distribution, new clusters began to appear in western and middle China or less developed towns in the east coast areas such as Jiangxi, Anhui, Henan and Liaoning province. Years later, as a result of “go west” policy, Hunan, Henan, Jiangxi, Shanxi and Anhui, the middle provinces, realised stronger growth in capital assets and profit than the industry average.

The Pearl River Delta and Yangtze River Delta still hold the highest number of T&A Establishing Free Trade Zones (FTZ) in Shanghai, Guangdong, Tianjin and Fujian.

Presences of T&A clusters at Eastern coastal provinces due to policy and economic reasons: 4 Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Guangdong, Fujian, Shandong and Hebei.

• Convenient transportation: close to highways or ports • Market vicinity: close to major cities, especially Hong Kong, Guangzhou and Shanghai.

• Excellent information, communication, and transportation infrastructure in the area.

Decline in Chinas Textile Industry due to rising labour cost, internal competition and environmental policies hurt many industries including especially textile dying industry, which causes heavy pollution and environmental concerns.

China’s textile and apparel makers are going through a painful industrial restructuring. While the country is still the world’s largest clothing exporter with enormous production capacity, oversupply at home, high labour costs, and rising global protectionism have all eroded its competitiveness. 5

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Beatriz Irun, “Business Opportunities and Challenges in The Textile and Apparel Market in China.” Business Opportunities and Challenges in The Textile and Apparel Market in China. EU SME Centre. (July 2017): 16-17, http://ccilc.pt/w pcontent/uploads/2017/07/eu_sme_centre_report_tamarket_in_china_2017.pdf.

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Sydney Leng, “China's Once-Booming Textile and Clothing Industry Faces Tough Times,” South China Morning Post, July 20, 2018, https://www.scmp.com/news/china/economy/article/2143938/chinas-once-booming-textile-and-clothing-industry-faces tough)

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Distribution of Textile and Apparel Industry cluster and Featured Cities in China Based on the report from China National Textile And Apparel Council CNTAC “关于确认辽宁省海城市等 199 个地区为纺织产业集群试点地区的决定” (中国纺织工业联合会文件 , 2016)”

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China’s Apparel Market Trends 6 China’s apparel market faces headwinds, the apparel market continued its uptrend in 2018, posting the highest year-over-year growth since 2014. However, mounting economic uncertainty is posing significant challenges for the apparel market. Sales growth of the market is estimated to decelerate to 3.5% and 3.2% in 2019 and 2020 respectively. Womenswear remains the largest sub-sector; childrenswear and sportswear show vast growth. Childrenswear has delivered strong growth momentum. following the full implementation of two-child policy starting January 2016.

Sportswear posts the highest sales growth among all other key apparel sectors. But due to overall macro uncertainty, sales growth of all apparel sub-sectors is expected to decline in 2019 Childrenswear trend

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There is a growing exposure of children to media and the ensuing rise in materialism, excessive consumption and impulsive purchases; greater autonomy and decision-making power of kids and their enhanced role in purchase decisions. Specifically, in China there is growing affluence of parents; and widening range of choices of luxury and designer clothing brands; and the rising popularity of ‘min-me’ trend 8 . Childrenswear market, together with sportswear is now outperforming womenswear and menswear. 9 Sportswear trend 10 Sportswear has long been a segment that was dominated by the United States on the global stage.

In recent years, the Chinese sportswear market has experienced a large surge, which may soon displace the U.S. as the top-valued market in the world.

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“China Apparel Market Update 2019 ,” Asia Distribution and Retail (Fung Business Intelligence, June 2019), https://www.fbicgroup.com/sites/default/files/Apparel_Industry_Series_2019_Part1.pdf) 7 “Evolution of Children’s Wear as an Independent Fashion Industry Drives Gains in the Global Children’s Wear Market,” (Global Industry Analysts, Inc., January 2019), https://www.strategyr.com/MarketResearch/market-report-infographic-childrenswear-forecasts-global-industry-analysts-inc.asp) 8 Mini-me trend refers to matching outfits by mothers and daughters popularised by celebrities and millennial mothers on social media.

9 Refer to table 2 10 Brandon Gaille, “19 China Sportswear Industry Statistics, Trends & Analysis,” BrandonGaille.com, October 18, 2018, https://brandongaille.com/19-china-sportswear-industry-statistics-trends-analysis/)

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Development of Textile Industry Clusters in Port Cities across Fujian A cluster effect seen in Fujian's textile & apparel sector 11 In Fujian, textile and apparel industrial clusters are attracting attention. Through cultivation and development for years, there have formed several key regions for clusters with a high level of industrial concentration and distinct scale benefits while having made conspicuous dedications to the development of the industry and the regional economy all over the province. Most textile and apparel industrial clusters in Fujian give priority to the regional economy of local countries and towns. 12 They tend to have a high level of industrial concentration, relatively consummate matching utilities, fairly low production costs, distinct interactions between the industry and the market.

Many regions experience new pattern of all-around development featured with prominent industrial clusters, complete industrial chains, enlarging enterprise scale, brilliant industrial characteristics, a great number of well-known brands, and enhanced Figure 1 Fujian Textile Industry Clusters competitiveness for the industry as a whole.

Examples of such regions include Changle City 13 , Fengze District of Quanzhou City, Shishi City14 , Jinjiang City 15 , Putian City, as well as Changting County and Yongan City in the jurisdiction of Sanming City as upcoming regions.

Despite its success, local textile industries still faced constant competition from more established industry clusters in other coastal regions at Yangtze River Delta and Pearl River Delta. Many enterprises move out of Fujian to these regions as China’s textile industry decline in recent years.

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Chen Yu, “A Cluster Effect Seen in Fujian's Textile & Apparel Sector,” China Economic Net, June 19, 2008, http://en.ce.cn/Insight/200806/19/t20080619_15886832.shtml) 12 See List of Textile Feature Towns in Table 1.

13 In Changle City, there are over 770 textile and apparel enterprises falling into various categories and 130,000 workers engaged in the industry at present; and in 2007, the industrial production value of enterprises above the designated scale amounted to RMB32 billion yuan.

14 See Chapter 3: Shishi City 15 In Jinjiang City, there are 3240 textile and apparel enterprises and 250,000 workers engaged in the industry at present; and in 2007, the total production value realized by the textile and apparel enterprises amounted to RMB49.5 billion yuan.

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Fujian Brand Leader: Anta Sports China's sportswear sales have boomed in the last few years due to the greater purchasing power of consumers, the increasing popularity of sports such as running and the rise of "athleisure" fashion trends. 16 Sportswear sales have been growing at twice the pace of the general apparel market in China in recent years, as increasingly affluent consumers pay more attention to fitness and as the government encourages investment in more sports facilities. 17 Anta is one of several sportswear companies dubbed the “Fujian Tigers” that emerged in the 1980s in south-eastern China. After making products for the likes of Nike and Adidas, it shifted to ownbrand goods and eventually began moving into the higher-end market with its acquisition of the Chinese rights for Italian brand Fila in 2009. 18 South Fujian Golden Delta Industrial Chain 闽南金三角特色产业链 Formed by the three Hokkien speaking cities in Southern Fujian- Xiamen, Quanzhou and Zhangzhou, The Minnan Golden Triangle economic zone is first mentioned in 1982.

According to the "Special Plan for the Integration of Manufacturing Industries in Xia-Zhang-Quan” 《厦漳泉大都市区制造业融合发展专项规划》 19 , which will accelerate the development of the three regions.

The three cities will combine the development orientation of the manufacturing industry, the carrying capacity of resources and environment and the development potential, rely on industrial clusters and industrial bases, deepen the industrial division of labour, extend the industrial chain, improve supporting measures, and build a "one axis, two cores and two belts." The spatial development pattern of the park will promote the linkage, coordination, dislocation and integration of manufacturing in the metropolitan area of Xiamen, Quanzhou, and build an important base for advanced manufacturing.

Tom Hancock. "China’s Anta Sports Posts Record Profits for 2018." FT.Com (2019).

Weinland, Don, Arash Massoudi, and Tom Hancock. "China’s Anta Offers to Buy Finland’s Amer Sports for €5.6bn." FT.Com (2018).

18 Weinland, Don, Arash Massoudi, and Tom Hancock. "China’s Anta Sports Closes in on €5.6bn Takeover of Finland’s Amer." FT.Com (2018).

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Zhang Shun he, “厦漳泉同城化又迈一步 建 7 个产值超千亿产业群 ,” 海西晨报 东南网, September 7, 2012, http://www.mnw.cn/news/cj/149476.html) 19 张顺和

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Create 8 characteristic industrial chains in 3 years

The eight characteristic industrial chains are Xiamen Computer and Communication Equipment, Xiamen Construction Machinery, Xiamen Optoelectronics Industry, Quanzhou Petrochemical, Quanzhou Sporting Goods, Quanzhou Textile and Apparel, Zhangzhou Metal and Deep Processing, and Zhangzhou, Gulei Petrochemical. (North To South)

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FUJIAN TRANSPORT HABOUR NETWORK

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CHAPTER TWO The Rise and Fall of Quanzhou

The Rise of Quanzhou in Tang Dynasty The Chinese harbour city Quanzhou which was a strategic juncture at the mouth of the Jin River and at the centre of several sea routes became an important centre for trade during the Tang dynasty. Due to advantageous political and economic conditions, the city developed rapidly in the course of the following centuries.

In Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Chinese society was cultivated in civilization and prosperous in economy. There had been a rather great development in silk industry, in dyeing, mining and metallurgical industry, ceramic industry in flour-making, paper-making, printing, tea-making, ceramic and ship-building industries. Among those, the productive technology of silk and ceramics was superb and was called "wonderful workmanship".

The rise of Quanzhou is a great event in the history of Chinese marine commerce and trade development. Quanzhou is situated on the south-east coast of Fujian Province, it holds a strategic point of Jin River mouth, its harbour is very good for anchoring. Quanzhou is situated in the middle of coast line administered by the then Song Dynasty, and on the juncture of East Sea Route and South Sea Route. From this port, ships could sail directly to south Sea, eastward to Japan, north ward to Korea, along the coast south-ward to Guangzhou, northward to Ningbo (the then Mingzhou) so Quanzhou was favoured by the geographical advantages at that time. It was both the market for transit goods in south-east coastal region and the main port for going abroad.

In Tang Dynasty, Quanzhou, Guangzhou, Mingzhou and Yangzhou were called “the 4 Big Harbours” by joint name. In the southern Song Dynasty, Quanzhou and Guangzhou kept pace with each other, leaping to the first place among the country's commercial points, having trade contacts with some 70 countries and regions.

Peak in Song-Yuan Dynasty In the Song-Jin war, unlike the ports in the northern coastal region, Quanzhou didn’t suffer the destruction of war flames and chaos, the shipbuilders and ship-owners were still able to make do with their business. Since the maritime trade moved from northern ports toward Quanzhou in large quantities, Quanzhou Port thrived rapidly. After the south-move of Song Dynasty, Quanzhou soon ascended to the out port position of the capital. They imported spices, exported silk and ceramics could be transported by land.

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In addition, Quanzhou got solid productive base for such exported goods as the beautiful ceramics made from Jian Kiln, Dehua Kiln of Fujian and Longquan Kiln of Zhejiang; the gorgeous silk the handicraft articles from the south of Changjiang River. Those goods provided source of commodities which sold well in great number for Quanzhou’s exportation. These were of course the very important ground for Quanzhou Harbour’s prosperity. Quanzhou city's establishment and expansion was closely related with the economic development, marine trade and cultural exchange.

In the war chaos happened in the Central Plains of Huanghe River, the northern Han people moved to Quanzhou in great number, bringing with them the advanced productive technology, art and culture. It had improved the prosperity of Quanzhou's economy and culture.

In Song-Yuan Dynasty, Quanzhou entered another more prosperous golden age of sea trade.

According to “The History of Quanzhou prefecture”, in Quanzhou Harbour at that time there were “a forest masts and merchants from the 4 seas". Quanzhou’s economy and marine trade were booming. Merchants, travelers and missionaries from various countries arrived in a continuous stream “The merchants and sages from abroad were all over the city”. This occasion was unprecedently-grand. It greatly promoted the economic and cultural exchange between Quanzhou and other Chinese places and a lot of overseas countries. The foreigners inhabiting Quanzhou from Asia and Africa were as many as several tens of thousands.

In fact, in Yuan Dynasty, Quanzhou and Alexandria were both the two “biggest trade ports in the world”, according to “The History of Yuan Dynasty”. The well-known Italian traveler Marco Polo, who sailed back home from Quanzhou Harbour in 1292 A.D., wrote in his travel notes: “A lot of merchants gathered here, the goods piled up like hills, it is really hard to imagine…Quanzhou is famous for the shutting ships...., and it is one of the biggest ports in the world”.

Fall in the Ming-Qing dynasty After Zheng he’s Sailing west in the early Ming Dynasty, the Chinese feudal rulers carried out a sea-banning policy of closing the country to international trade and intercourse. It gravely strangled the overseas development ability of Chinese nation. And it caused the big historic fall back of Chinese civilization from the height. At this point, Quanzhou port was also plague by piracy. The subsequent sea ban in Qing dynasty affects the livelihood of traders and fisherman as Quanzhou was plague by illegal imports of opium, causing it to decline further.

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Modern Development of Quanzhou- Quanzhou Model 20 The Quanzhou model refers to the economic development model characterized by the unique characteristics of private enterprises and the industrial agglomeration of light industries, which has been formed since the “reform and opening up” in Quanzhou City, Fujian Province.

When it comes to the counties (cities, districts) under the jurisdiction of Quanzhou, people can almost sum up the characteristics of their characteristic economic development:

In the past 20 years, Quanzhou has used its distinctive county economy as a strong support point for the development of Quanzhou’s overall economy, and actively implemented the “brand economy”, “characteristic economy” and “ block economy ” strategies to accelerate the promotion. With the industrialization , urbanization and agricultural industrialization process, the county economy has developed rapidly.

20 “泉州模式 Quanzhou Model.” 首页. Accessed November 3, 2019. https://wiki.mbalib.com/wiki/泉州模式.

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Shishi City 盖地铺天万式装,有街无处不经商 Shishi is a famous clothing capital in China. Previously a town in Jinjiang jurisdiction, its clothing industry began in the 1960s before the city was officially formed in 1987. Throughout the years, the industry gradually evolved from small family-owned factories to large enterprises and advance industrial parks. Shishi City is one of the earliest cradles and distributing centres in the textile and apparel industry in China, wining them the title of "China's Famous City of Leisurewear 中国休闲 服装名镇" granted by the China National Textile And Apparel Council, CNTAC.

Figure 2 Dalun Street where the first clothing stalls were set up in the 1960s

Currently Shishi City has 7 towns : Lingxiu Town , Baogai Town , Hanjiang Town , Xiangzhi Town , Hongshan Town , Jinshang Town and Yongning Town。 Many of these town in the city has earn features textile towns titles from CNTAC 21

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See Table 1: List of Featured Town in Fujian Province.

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History of Shishi Textile and Apparel Industry22 1960s 1970s

1980s

1987

2015

2019

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“估衣摊 Casual clothing booth” is the birth place of Shishi clothing market.

In the 1960s, Shishi people purchased imported clothing, fabrics and other goods from Overseas Chinese and set up booths along Xinhua Road and Dalun Street.

At the beginning of reform and opening up, relying on the relationships with overseas Chinese and foreign goods, Shishi has achieved rapid development. It has been hailed as the "small Hong Kong" in the Mainland.

After the reform and opening up, the “casual clothing booths” has evolved into a clothing market, which has led to the development of garment processing and gradually evolved the “Front-shop and back-factory” trade.

By 1985, the clothing industry had gradually jumped to become the first pillar industry of Shishi. People were not satisfied with the cookie-cutter factory model and began to make their own brands ambitiously. These brand accounts use to account for more than half of the total number of clothing brands in the province. At that point, it was said that one out of every four residents are engaged in the clothing industry.

After Shishi City was estsblished, the industrialized giants rolled forward, the garment processing was rapidly upgraded, and the accumulation of quantity showed a qualitative leap. With the innovation and brand promotion of the upstream and downstream of the industrial chain, the full application of public service platforms such as the National Textile Testing Center and the Dyeing and Finishing Fabric Technology Center, Shishi has gradually developed and ventured into a spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing textile machinery manufacturing and products. The industrial supporting system integrating R&D, sales inspection and testing, and information services has become a well-known textile and clothing cluster in the country.

In 2005, Shishi Garment City, a large-scale professional wholesale market that was positioned as “an important carrier to promote the structural improvement of Shishi garment industry, industrial upgrading and marketing”, was officially put into operation.

The generous investment and unique planning and design have laid a foundation for the development of Shishi Garment City in the domestic clothing wholesale market, and accelerated the integration of upstream and downstream industries, forming a close industrial chain.

Shishi Garment City has a total construction area of 800,000 square meters. There are 8 trading areas, 4,791 shops, and more than 3,200 merchants. The international textile city, Haixi E-commerce Park, Qingchuang City, cross-border network batch market, Shuangqi Electric Mall and other e-commerce markets gathered and formed.

Haisi Product Fair, Haibo Fair, Shishi International Fashion Week... With the distinctive industrial characteristics of Shishi, Shishi Garment City continues to prosper and develop, , forming the most prestigious market system in the country. In September 2018, Shishi Garment City stood out from the 38 application markets across the country and became the only approved pilot market procurement method in Fujian Province, which brought new major developments for Shishi to promote “innovation transformation and industrial strength”. opportunity.

Today, however, as one step into Shishi City, the once prosperous and busy city is not perceivable. Half of these established clothing market, shopping malls especially in Lingxiu Town are now quiet and empty, with business mostly occupying the first two levels. Many buildings catered for the industry were left empty and some depilated.

王文坤 Wang Wen Kun . “石狮市服装产业的发展与融资方式的演进 The Development of Clothing Industry in

Shishi City and the Evolution of Financing Methods.” 银行家 The Chinese Banker no. 6 (2012): 116-118.

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Children’s Wear In the late 20th century, the children’s wear was one of the largest category in Shishi’s Apparel Industry sprouting from Fengli Street. The number of factories producing children’s clothing was more than half of all the apparel factories, but they were mostly made up of small enterprises and most factories were family owned. As the textile and clothing accessories industry continue to flourish, children’s clothing was able to form a complete production chain locally, allowing the children’s wear market to expand. Small and local enterprises were able to support themselves with local demands while larger enterprises continue to grow due to foreign trade, setting up huge wholesale markets in Shishi Fengli Street, completing the production-supply-marketing cycle.

One of the largest children's apparel manufacturers in Shishi City is Yebao Children's Products Co. Ltd. 野豹儿童用品有限公司, it is a large-scale production enterprise that exports all kinds of clothing. Founded in 1988, the company has more than 3,000 employees and an annual output value of 300 million yuan. The company has advanced production equipment, strong technical force and large-scale standard production plants. The main products are: children's series of clothing, all kinds of cotton clothes, fashion, jackets, windbreakers and casual wear. Products are exported to more than 20 countries and regions such as Britain, Germany, France, the United States, Southeast Asia and Europe.

Sportswear Sportswear is one of the important categories of clothing industry in Shishi, with more than 300 production enterprises. Founded in 1984, Liandai Hualian Knitting Factory 莲埭华联针织厂 is one of the early manufacturers of sportswear, integrating the production of knitted fabrics and sportswear.

Founded in 1985, Jianming Knitting and Garment Co. Ltd. 建明针织制衣有限公司 introduces advanced garment manufacturing equipment from West Germany and Japan to produce "Jianming" brand sportswear. Its products are exported to America, Australia and Southeast Asian countries. It has provided various kinds of sportswear for excellent Chinese athletes to visit foreign countries for many times.

Founded in 1992, Yixing Knitted Clothing Co., Ltd. 益兴针织服装有限公司 (formerly Pengtian Jianjian knitted clothing factory 彭田健健针织服装厂) is the largest sportswear manufacturer of Shishi, with more than 800 imported electric sewing machines, computer jacquard machines, computer embroidery machines, Ribbon machines and other equipment. Four fifths of the products are exported to South Africa, the Middle East, Eastern Europe, Russia, Hong Kong and other countries and regions. The company is located in Pengtian village, the largest professional sportswear production village in Shishi. Pengtian village in Lingxiu Town once had more than 100 sportswear production enterprises. Nanyang Road /Yuanyang Lake

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Current Outlook

石狮在五六年前没落了，现在人口如果说以前有十个人，现在可能只有三四 个人。 -谭师傅，重庆人，93 年移居石狮市，曾是一名晋江鞋商，如今是一名出租 车师傅。 The development of the textile and apparel industries in Lingxiu Town and Fengli Street laid down the infrastructure and hardware for future industrial development and economic success, However, under the general decline of the industry in the China and depressing foreign demand, the policies to centralised the industry to the South of Nanyang Road has led to unequal development within the town as there wasn’t enough commercial activity to sustain the industry that is currently too wide spread. In addition, most of these smaller factories within the Yuanyang Lake Region (Central of Lingxu Town) who are still adopting the “back factory-front shop” model are under severe threat as they are unwilling to move and unable to compete with local industrial giants.

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CHAPTER 3 Yuanyang Lake Statement of Significance

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Shishi Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre

最早的（纺织产业）话，是在晋江的英林镇。但后期英林的政府加重税收， 商户反抗，存 在争议。 正好鸳鸯池商业中心刚形成，正在招商 。 很多英灵大户就往石狮搬…早年石狮 服装市场很旺。很多的英林的布料商就想，基本上石狮的采购商都在英林纳户。如果往鸳鸯 池（石狮）搬的话，给石狮服装厂商提供不少方便。和政府协商免税（三五年）…

-谢天坝, 泉州人，曾在鸳鸯池商业区创业,如今已搬至石狮国际轻纺城，从事毛呢贸易。

Statement of Significance This statement aims to highlight the unique qualities, character defining elements and history of the complex and more importantly its position as an significant “clothing landscape” for Lingxiu town and Shishi City’s textile and apparel industry (T&A). The statement does not establish new value but highlighting existing value of the building to its context.

Located at west side of Yuanyang Lake, Lingxiu Town, Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre (石狮 鸳鸯池商业中心) was established in August 1993. It was a period of major economic progress for many coastal cities as the textile industry is rapidly developing and one of the major cities that benefited from this progression is Shishi City.

In the late 20th century, Yuanyang Lake neighborhood became one of the most important clothing landscapes in Lingxiu town and the region. Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre was one of the four largest garment fabric markets in Fujian province and China. It has been awarded the titles of “Top Ten Textile Professional Markets in China Commodity Trading Market 中国商品交易市场十佳纺 织品专业市场” and “Most Influential Market in China Commodity Trading Market 中国商品 交易市场最具影响力市场” by China Commodity Trade Market Development Committee(中国 市场指导委员会).

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The building complex was commissioned and invested by the community in Dalun Village(大仑 村 ),a village at the southern region of Yuanyang lake). It was designed by a Hong Kong architect/contractor (name unknown). Majority of these investors had the surname Cai 蔡. The main investor Cai Tian Cai 蔡天财 had passed away and now the building is under the management of his wife, Xu You Li 许幼力 and the actual site of Dalun village has been redeveloped.

Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre is socially significant because not only does it represents the economic success of the pioneers of Lingxiu Town and Shishi City, it is also the last place where the community co-exist with the industry in the same building. Over the years, it became the witness of the rise and fall of the T&A industry and its continual presence would act as a beacon of hope for the future growth and development of the town.

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Figure 3Aerial View of Yuangyang Lake Commercial Building

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Architecture Significance Proximity to town center and connection to main road access/ major clothing landscapes The whole complex took up almost the entire plot and was divided into a total of 12 blocks (without the 4th block). It is is bounded by three important roads, namely Baqi Road, Yuanyang Lake Road and Nanyang Road.

(Baqi Road, which means 87 road refers to the year 1987 where Shishi City was formed and it is the main east-west access for the city and the main road access to the city centre, Nanyang Road is one of the longest north-south access in town connecting every major clothing landscapes in Lingxiu town. Yuanyang Lake/ Yuanyang Lake road was one the first few names and location in the city being associated with the industry due to the clustering effect of the textile industry at the centre of the town before the Southern region was developed around Nanyang Road.

Largest Courtyard mixed-used building with ramp access Due to the unique huge shape of the plot, the complex formed is a unique triangular shaped courtyard block and it is currently still the largest mix-used courtyard complex in Lingxiu town.

With the scale, and its proximity to the only lake in town, the building also serve as a landmark for the area.

It is obvious that the building is design with vehicular circulation in mind, it allows vehicular access from all of the three main roads. Each unit at the first three level is designed to allow cars or a small van to drive in for ease of transport, while the corridors are generally wide enough to form two lanes of road. It also features a ramp system that allow vehicles to access the first 4 floors from Nanyang Road, making this building one of its kind in the 90s. The building uses mainly concrete and steel furnished with thin white tiles across its faรงade. It has a typical courtyard typology that is common in the region but it is vital for a building that allow so much vehicular circulation.

The continuous ramp building that marks the name of the building weaves through the complex ties together all the spaces into one continuous loop, resembling a well oiled spinning wheel. Such building with ramp system did not exist in the city until the building was established and currently only newer wholesale markets that were built in early 2000s have the same system.

Secondary street experience Due to the ramp access to the residential area, the building has a unique secondary street experience unlike more podium mixed used building we see today. As such some businesses expand towards the fourth storey. This storey became the common podium space where the community interacts and it became their internal public space.

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Rise: Economic significance Symbol of success Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre is economically significant as the presence of the building marks the development and growth of the T&A industry in the region and its a testament to its rapidly evolving industrial development. At its commissioned, it was one of the most luxurious mixed-use building covering an area 11300 sqm with over 300 shop units and over 200 rental unit, making this building one of the largest complexes in town, housing hundreds of budding clothing related business and new families. At its peak, Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre’s rent could be up to 160,000 yuan per year for a large sized unit. Merchants were able to fill up the entire building and traffic was tight. Yuanyang Lake Road was known to have traffic congestions even up till the wee hours.

Catalyst for the growth of the textile business in Yuanyang Lake area.

The building marks the point in the development of the industry where many could succeed easily by starting a small business and factory within a unit. This smaller business model was effective and efficient for the smaller establishment as they are lighter on machinery and do not occupy a large amount of space. Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre facilitate the business model efficiently due to its modular unit design, allowing business to expand easily when they needed with many businesses able to support each other due to its proximity.

Due to the success of the complex, it became the catalyst for the growth of the textile businesses in Yuanyang Lake neighbourhood where the ground floor of all surrounding buildings are mostly filled with similar cloth merchants, making the Yuanyang Lake are a popular and prosperous area for textile business.

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Figure 4 Yuanyang Lake Road

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Industrial/ Cultural Heritage Coexistent of Family and Business Sewing is a household event in many cultures. Traditionally the technique is passed down from one generation to another through women. As the T&A industry revolutionized and developed in China coastal cities, the idea of “front house-back factory “ became the identity of many families in Shishi and Yuanyang lake Commercial Centre truly embodies that character before more institutionalized and centralized factories were built.

Since 1985, the clothing industry had gradually jumped to become the first pillar industry of Shishi.

People were not satisfied with the cookie-cutter factory made clothing and began to make their own brands ambitiously. These brand accounts use to account for more than half of the total number of clothing brands in the province. At that point, it was said that one out of every four residents are engaged in the clothing industry.

Since its commissioned, the complex became an unique area where people can live and work and play around the environment of this light industry. The mix of multi-used units allow many budding entrepreneurs and families to be of close proximity within each other and allowed the expansion of both businesses and families to happen within the same complex. The Cai family for example, still owns multiple units for their family and business.

A place of cultural exchange In addition, due to its nature as a market and being one of the first rental units for foreigners in town.

Yuanyang Lake Commercial centre became a place of cultural exchange. Apart from the shareholders of the building complex who were all from Dalun Village( located across Yuanyang Lake), the complex was the first house of many cloth merchants who moved to this new town from Yiling Town in Jinjiang. The rental units above are mostly occupied by foreigners from other parts of China who moved to Shishi City to seek business opportunity when the city was prospering in the 90s due to the success of the T&Ag industry. The complex soon became the starting point of many pioneers in the industry be it foreign or local, witnessing many success story of the community and the industry. Over the years this function of the building has not change despite many tenants moving out. With the establishment of Bolai Hotel in 2007, welcoming more foreigners to the complex and generate more traffic flow and business for the tenants.

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Fall

曾经一间店铺十年的租金可以是一百六十万，还办过布料展销会。如今一年 的租金大概是两三千…以前外面这条路是很拥挤的，现在你看还有人吗？ 马瑞婷女士，安徽人，06 年移居石狮市，是鸳鸯池商业中心唯一的管理员。 However due to the general decline in the textile and apparel industry in Shishi, Yuanyang Lake Commercial Building is barely surviving with limited renters occupying the first two levels of the building. Many small enterprises had fallen and left the building while more successful owners had moved to Shishi International Textile City where they enjoy government subsidies and better facilities.

The once luxurious residential units is now mostly cheap rental units for foreigners from other parts of China. The entire building is now poorly maintained and there is only one security guard for the whole complex as compared to a dozen in the past. Lighting condition of the building is poor, and many units were currently just being used as storage space with a few factories still working and producing. Cloth merchants that used to dominate the building now occupies the first level with little to no sales for the entire year, causing the building complex to lose more and more renters despite the annual rental fees being as little as 2000 yuan for some smaller units. The first three levels of the building are now being used more like a multi-storey carpark with more vehicles than human occupying the building.

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Figure 5 Figure 6 , Figure 7 Remaining vendors and factories

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Figure 8 Shishi Clothing Accessories City 石狮辅料城 (top) Figure 9 Shishi Clothing City 石狮服装城 (bottom)

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CHAPTER 4.1 Mending Clothing Landscapes

Summary of the work Clothing is paramount to our culture and environment, urban and natural. The thesis first established the importance of clothing and highlight existing issues in the way we procure and ‘use’ clothing, as well as what is being lost through this new mode of transaction.

It then investigates the general trends and patterns in the making and distribution of textile and apparel throughout history and modern-day industrialisation globally and specifically in China. As the current world textile centre, China is now facing domestic issues and foreign competition from South-east Asia countries, threatening the development and livelihood of the industry across the country.

The research then summarises the development and geographical distribution of industry clusters and trading zones promoted by the One Belt One Road policy to give an overall outlook of the industry in the future. As the textile industry in China is closely related to marine time trade historically, the thesis narrowed in to Quanzhou Bay Region (which used to house one of the largest port in the world in Song-Yuan Dynasty) and ultimately Shishi City, Quanzhou to further investigate the current state of the industry in smaller coastal cities and textile featured towns as China’s once booming industry declines in growth.

In conclusion, the thesis is primarily concern about the way we perceive clothing, seeing that as the main issue behind the textile and apparel industry apart from the typical environmental concerns.

As people are more detached from the activity of clothes making, the value of each clothing decreases with each mindless purchase. Therefore, places where people interact through the making and distribution of clothing (Clothing Landscapes) became the critical place of contact where we could restore the significance and meaning of textile and apparel. When each piece of clothing tells a story about its maker, its materials and its location.

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Adaptive reuse of Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre As a city developed its institutionalized facilities for the textile and apparel industry, it often forgot that clothing is more than just a commodity for the economy but rather the making of the clothes and the sustainability of these items as well as the people working in the industry.

Seeing the resemblance in the spirit between mending our clothing and the adaptive reuse in architecture; where both attempts to mend a piece of their culture or existing constructed space to extends its longevity. We will be looking into Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre, a “Clothing City� in China, where the architecture and people live or lived among the industry, where the sustainability of the city depends heavily on how the people perceived and treat clothing through the architecture.

The thesis speculates that as we conserve and breathe new life into these landscapes, we could also repair the relationship between clothing and people where having this knowledge, access and connection with clothes making extends the usership of our clothes and ultimately, changes the way we perceive clothing.

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“Skeleton and Skin” Principle/ Possible Programmes New retail spaces (skeleton) should remain basic and flexible so that vendors could then change and renew store elements to create different dynamics (skin) The new Yuanyang Lake Complex would be stripped of its old skin and keeping its original structure that could adapt and be modified based on the vendors.

EXHIBITION o Immersive, more experiential more tactile, more visually stimulating o Try on room o Façade could be open up /flexible to engage with the street. o o o o o o o o o

TEXTILE/TEXTILE WALL MUSEUM/FACTORY/ATELIER/LEARNING CENTRE Exposure to craft and design/heritage Fujian Maiden/traditional tailoring/ Minnan Culture/brand Incubate the idea of materiality, design and craft, inspiring newer generations of designers that could pushed the future of clothing designs t Long Corridor potential for display and shows for kids.

Children Clothes factory Customise clothing for children and adults.

Try-on experience Textile| Tactile wall: The story of the invention of textile, the growth of this new industry, and the value of intellectual property are displayed graphically and chronologically.

o UPCYCLE | USERSHIP o Children outgrown their clothes at a faster rate as compared to adults. There is a need to maintain a sustainable source of clothing, there is a tendency to overbuy, or people with lower income might just be wearing clothes or shoes that were ill fitting. o Costume rental for special events or performance. o PLAY AND MOVEMENT o Immersive playground /clothing textile tunnel o The focus on sportswear and childrenswear suggest an elemental of active and fun movement within the complex. Much can be done to modify the existing dark ramp for pedestrian or bicycles, distinguish the building from other malls o STORAGE | E-COMMERCE o Storage space for E-commerce at second level carpark and for hotel customer o Embodies the Quanzhou brand not just Shishi City. o Inspire younger generations of designer. (INCUBATION)

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Exposing the process and the history of making clothing is vital in changing the perceptions of clothing. This new business and co-living model aims to be new business model that could be transferable to other dying detail spaces and buildings such as the Textile Centre in Singapore’s’ Sultan Road. It seeks to primarily repair the relationship between the consumers and sellers to promote a more sustainable clothing culture (act of making, buying, sharing, maintaining clothes) and encourages exchange of culture through textile, regaining humans’ agency in the trading of goods.

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CHAPTER 4.2 Mending Clothing Landscapes

HISTORY The thesis first analyses the system and activities revolving around the making and distribution of textile and apparels. It adopts a series of analysis on historical events and graphical mapping of various scales showing a pattern of morphology and sociology in the textile development in the world, regionally and to the chosen site: Yuanyang Lake Commercial Centre in Ling Xiu town, Shishi City, Quanzhou, Fujian, China

BA Q

1990s

IR

OA D

BAGUA ROAD MARKET 1920 1960s

YUANYANG LAKE COMMERCIAL CENTRE YUANYANG LAKE NEIGHBOURHOOD 1990s FUFENG COMMERCIAL CENTRE

NA YAN

GR

OA D

DALUN VILLAGE

OLD TOWN NEW TOWN

LINGXIU TEXTILE CITY 2000s

SHISHI TEXTILE AND CLOTHING ACCESORIES CITY 2000s

Clothing Landscapes

Mixed-use/ Specifically with clothing related business

Cluster

Main roads

Centralised institutionsLINGXIU in theTOWN south of Lingxiu Town SCALE 1:5000 moving clothing-related activities and businesses away from the community.

Park

SIGNIFICANCE AND CONTEXT Economic Significance Symbol of success for Dalun Village Regional leader in the industry Catalyst for the growth of the textile business in Yuanyang Lake area.

Industrial/ Culture heritage Reflection of an era and a type of family-owned workshops/factory.

Regional leader in clothes production and commerce Remaining place where workshops and family units coexist A place of cultural exchange Architectural Significance Regional landmark at centre of town.

Connection to NS and EW main road access and major clothing landscapes.

Key position in the production line of the industry Largest Courtyard mixed-used building with ramp access.

Secondary street experience.

OBJECTIVE To conserve the unique individual brands, family-owned businesses and units that came from various villages. Providing better living conditions and to continue the spirit of making and mending our clothes in the current landscapes as opposed to the centralized institutions.

existing facade

WHITE TILES Many buildings in modern Asian architecture is cladded with tiles as it was one of the most efficient way to finish a facade that has low maintenance. While dealing with conservation of this building, these tiles became to surface as a material that connects many architecture of the region and the thesis only begin to suggest ways to extend the use of the material that is often deem as dull and ugly.

new facade

STRATEGIES Restore the courtyard typology and interweave new circulation spaces to enhance the quality of public spaces while increasing better visual relationship between levels to encourage better integration of living and the clothes making.

gR oa d Na ny an

Yuanyang Lake Road

new grou

qi

Ba d

a Ro

und plan

demolition of existing interior blocks to open up more public spaces, conserving the exterior of the complex

Increase cross ventilation by creating punctuations through the perimeter blocks.

new 5th s

storey plan

Introduce more vertical transitions and connections in between blocks

Increase cross ventilation, circ same time breaking the mono ing punctuations throug

culation, public space. At the otony of the facade by creatgh the perimeter blocks.

Existing conditions

Conserved spiral staircases and arched window facade.

played up the originally neglig

gible public transitional area

spaces of contemplation to cre

eate diversity in public spaces

Continuous vehicular to fourth storey creating a secondary street experience, allowing the coexistence of businesses and housing beyond the ground floor

Tables and Charts 晋江市深沪镇 Shenhu Town, Jinjiang City

中国内衣名镇 Underwear

晋江市英林镇 Yinglin Town, Jinjiang City

中国休闲服装名镇 Casual wear

晋江市龙湖镇 Longhu Town, Jinjiang City

中国织造名镇 Textile Weaving

长乐市松下镇 Songxia Town. Changle City

中国花边名镇 Lace

石狮市蚶江镇 Hanjiang Town, Shishi City

中国裤业名镇 Pants

石狮市灵秀镇 Lingxiu Town, Shishi City

中国运动休闲服装名镇 Sportswear

石狮市宝盖镇 Baogai Town, Shishi City

中国服装辅料服饰名镇 Clothing Accesories

石狮市凤里街道 Fengli Street, Shishi City

中国童装名镇 Children’s wear

石狮市鸿山镇 Hongshan Town, Shishi City

中国休闲面料名镇 Casual Clothes Fabric

Table 1: List of Featured Town in Fujian Province

Table 2 Sales of key sub sectors of China’s apparel market, 2014 2020

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Tables for Sportswear Trend 23 24

Table 3 The graph shows a breakdown of the sportswear market in China in 2016, by brand. That year, Nike ranked first in the Chinese sportswear market with a market share of 12.17 percent.

Table 4 In 2016, the sportswear industry in China rose by 11%, generating $27 billion in revenues. In comparison, the sale of total apparel in China rose by just 5%. (Daxue Consulting)

Gaille, Brandon. “19 China Sportswear Industry Statistics, Trends & Analysis.” BrandonGaille.com, October 18, 2018. https://brandongaille.com/19-china-sportswear-industry-statistics-trends-analysis/.

24 Blazyte, Agne. “China Retail Sales of Sportswear 2013-2020.” September 23, 2019. China Retail Sales of Sportswear 2013-2020. https://www.statista.com/statistics/819943/china-sportswear-retail-sales/ 23

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Table 5 This statistic shows the retail sales of sportswear in China from 2013 to 2018, with estimates until 2020. In 2018, the sales revenue of sports apparel had reached around 264.8 billion yuan in China.

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