Dalia Ibrahim, MD, MPH / Dina Seif MD, MBA

Infuse Ketamine Treatment Center

Infuse Ketamine Treatment Center offers a breakthrough treatment for mental health and chronic pain patients who have not found relief with traditional treatment. The center is operated by Drs. Dalia Ibrahim and Dina Seif, two board-certified physicians who have been helping patients find hope and healing with ketamine since 2019. In recent years, researchers and physicians have seen the astounding effects ketamine has for those with mental health issues and mood disorders, including depression, anxiety, obsessive compulsive disorder, and post-traumatic stress disorder. In fact, ketamine can rapidly improve symptoms in patients who do not get relief from antidepressant and antianxiety medications; clinical trials have demonstrated that up to 80% of people who suffer from depression or suicidal thoughts get significant improvement in their symptoms after ketamine infusion therapy. If you are considering ketamine therapy, you want experienced care you can trust. Dr. Ibrahim is double board-certified in Internal Medicine and Gastroenterology and has expertise managing medications for mood disorders and pain conditions. Dr. Seif is board-certified in Emergency Medicine and has extensive experience with ketamine in the emergency setting as well as managing psychiatric emergencies and pain crises. Both Dr. Ibrahim and Dr. Seif are members of the American Society of Ketamine Physicians and participate in collaborative work within the multidisciplinary ketamine community. “Our clinic provides a safe, calming environment for our patients to experience the benefits of ketamine treatment. All evaluations and treatments are administered by a physician and each treatment is customtailored for the unique, individual needs of each of our patients,” says Dr. Seif. “We take pride in the time we spend getting to know our patients and feel privileged to help them on their path to wellness.”

PHYSICIAN OF EXCELLENCE

24411 Health Center Drive, Suite 430 Laguna Hills, CA 92653 949-452-3933 | 714-404-9042

JANUA RY 2022

ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS

PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and allnatural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$

This colorful tenant at the Anaheim Packing House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S.

Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

Gawk at the view from the 12-story rooftop digs, but know that BluSkybar’s Basque cuisine is what really makes this hotel restaurant Anaheim’s most interesting newcomer. Executive chef Edgar Beas is fresh off stints at Michelin-starred kitchens, applying mastery to a tight menu of Spanish dishes. Look for Iberico pork items, indulgent salt cod, and lobster paella. Late night, the place thumps with club action. Radisoon Blu, 1601 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-4091458. Dinner only $$

Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the

Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great peoplewatching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$

Steaks—including the 24-ounce porterhouse and center-cut filet mignon—are wet-aged 23 to 25 days.

Fill your plate with giant sides of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer bar-bite deals nightly from 4:30 to closing. 1895 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-621-0101.

See South Coast Metro location. $$$

Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare.

The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313 Disneyland

Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$

Downtown Anaheim’s build-a-poke-bowl canteen is busy for three reasons: The food is delectable, cheap, and made your way. All the elements of delicious Hawaiian poke are assembled based on what you choose. Pick from cubed raw fish, white or brown rice, fresh onions, cucumber, avocado, mild to incendiary sauces, and vibrant garnishes of smelt roe, sesame seeds, nori, pickled ginger, and wasabi.

Parking is problematic, so go off-hours, or pay for a spot in the Wells Fargo garage off West Broadway. 184 S. Harbor Blvd., 657-208-3488. No alcohol. $

Chef-owner Michael Reed applies his versatile chops to a spirited, seasonal dinner menu of share plates and thoughtful proteins. Clever variations on of-the-moment produce are high points, as are premium steaks and duck dishes. The one-of-a-kind greenhouse garden setting is a calming contrast to neighbor Anaheim Packing House. Weekend brunch.

Closed Monday and Tuesday. 350 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-603-7130 $$$

Part of a swanky new Westin resort, the latest site of this high-flying taqueria is perhaps the most dramatic. Kinetic lighting, mobile bar shelves, and a tequila temple wall engage diners as they down showy drinks and novel taco-centric fare.

Handmade blue corn tortillas and cheesy Oaxacan fricos lend tacos a signature difference. Ask about the monthly taco special. 1040 W. Katella Ave., 714294-0362. $$ See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations.

Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael

Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron

Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$

A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La

Habra locations. $$

Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet

Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E.

Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$

This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A sizable roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$

Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

Iceberg wedge salad at Poppy & Seed

This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$

Big and welcoming, this 230-seat sprawling venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 3325

E. Imperial Highway, 714-733-1310. See Dana Point location. $$$

Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W.

Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$

North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service.

Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714592-3122. Dinner only. $$$

Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis, and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads.

Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E.

Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$

The team behind much-loved A Restaurant pounced on the defunct Crow Bar, retooling it with scraped light-wood floors, peacock-blue velvet booths, leather chairs, and a freestanding, always-busy bar.

The kitchen takes on seasonal, contemporary American fare. Think a trio of unexpectedly sublime pizzas.

Ethereal Parker House rolls. A killer Niman Ranch pork chop. 2325 E. Coast Highway, 949-287-6600. $$$

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast

Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La

Habra locations. $

This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth enterprise, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills

Road, 949-640-1415. $$$

O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with

Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C.

Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801

E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$

Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$

Pretty little Corona del Mar State Beach has a yearround chow counter, thanks to Pasadena native and chef-owner Brian Huskey, a veteran of “Top Chef” season 11. Look for an affordable menu of daytime eats that includes avocado-smoked salmon tartine, chilaquiles with black beans, and even an ace Buffalo cauliflower for beach body vegetarians. Weekend lunch includes star Maine lobster roll on squid ink bun. No booze, but there’s always a house-made agua fresca. 3029 Shore Ave., 949-723-0502. $

Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almondwood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853. Beer and wine. $$

This quirky hang is a restaurant and private-event venue from local artist Clayton Peterson. A pastiche of upcycled shipping containers and post-andbeam construction, the space is also indoor-outdoor, with frequent live music by local and touring acts.

Mathieu Royer is executive chef, cooking a tight and ever-changing menu of eclectic fare that’s in sync with this oddball shop. Don’t miss the savory burger.

Terrific craft cocktails ensure a mixed crowd. 1640

Pomona Ave., 949-646-3176. $$

Goo-Yi 9.2 has quietly taken its place among the county’s elevated Korean barbecue experiences since its 2020 opening. As for the name, goo-yi is Korean for “grill”; the number 9.2 is pronounced goo-yi as well; in Korean, the restaurant’s name is goo-yi goo-yi—“grill grill” or “barbecue barbecue.” Servers set up grills and cook all items at your table. The shareable steamedegg starter is a must. Lunch combos include a spicy pork-belly bowl with kimchi stew and banchan sides. The prized Prime ribeye cap is limited to five orders per day. Adventurous eaters might enjoy cheese tripe fried rice or the three-cut beef-intestine combo. Chef-owner Andrew Kim also heads up a tax-consulting firm with 30 o ices. His restaurant portfolio includes Korean pancake destination Gob Chang in Buena Park and several locations of BB.Q Chicken. Northpark Plaza, 3959 Irvine Blvd., Irvine, 714-417-9289 —BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

Owner Abder Amokrane refreshes this venue with a new identity, decor updates, and menu upgrades.

The vast and ancient cuisine of the Mahgreb is nicely executed here with a bit of Spain (paella) and France (shrimp Provençale) included. Bountiful platters of appetizers span regions and centuries of legendary cuisine. Seating options aplenty mean this is a good call for gatherings of many sizes. But even the five-course dinner for two is appealing and a steal at $36 per person. 1976 Newport Blvd., 949423-7990. Dinner only. $$

Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$

Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.

Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$

A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.

The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566.

Dinner only. $

At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725

Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR

Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think

barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$

The first O.C. shop from this thriving L.A.-based chain is not your nonna’s pizzeria. Upbeat and come-asyou-are casual, it’s a Cal-Ital original. A menu packed with classic and seasonal wood-fired pies, pastas, and salads has wide appeal, so this retooled Marie

Callender’s stays packed with fans of all ages. Check out its back-door speakeasy, Pie Society. 353 E. 17th

St., 949-313-6333. $

Fresh, high-quality cooking shaped by the Pacific

Northwest lures locals to this strip-center lunch and weekend brunch favorite for creative eats such as smoked salmon hash and hazelnut flapjacks. 369

E. 17th St., 949-722-7586. Breakfast and lunch. $$

Social brought hipster dining to a scruffy westside strip mall, opening the area to considerable gentrification. The 118-seat retooled venue surprises with sophisticated cooking and a nicely refreshed menu, especially now that executive chef Jeffrey Boullt is back and managing two scratch kitchens. Yes, a second Social is just open in Huntington Beach. New signature items include lamb empanadas, wagyu beef tri-tip, and all-new craft cocktails. Service is variable. 512 W. 19th St., 949-642-2425. Weekend brunch. Second location (not reviewed) in Huntington Beach at 21214 Beach Blvd. $$

Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged—is the star of a pithy-if-pricey menu that’s unabashedly loyal. Lavish compound butter s to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. Polished service and often enchanting desserts. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949240-2000. $$$

Glasspar is a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and taproom. Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahé site, paused for dining but open for supporting the community with ultra-fresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on topshelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana

Point Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$

Big and welcoming, this 225-seat harbor side venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 25001 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-388-8900. See Brea location. $$

Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience. But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$

Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquitegrilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics. The roomy lounge does a vigorous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs. 32802 Pacific Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$ WATERMAN’S HARBORSuperior Tree Care 9/3/03 11:35 AM Page 2 A contemporary beacon on Dana Point Harbor’s saltworn embarcadero, this sleek seafooder offers two floors with scenic views of the breakwater action, including a big, breezy patio shaded from the sun’s rays on those high-UV days. Fresh oysters are the $1.50 star of happy hour. 34661 Golden Lantern St., 949-764-3474. $$$

A miraculous menu of traditional Vietnamese and

Chinese dishes, without meat or fish, comprises the self-described “humanese” cuisine at this New Agey bistro. A creamy fish-shaped loaf of tofu is unforgettable; so are the spring rolls. Even desserts are healthful, with fruity selections such as Rainbow in the Sky Pie. 16563 Brookhurst St., 714-418-0658. $$

This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst

St., 714-377-0398. $$$

Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such

as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$

This halal bistro serves flavorful kebabs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired wagyu steaks.

Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in finedining kitchens. Khan Saab has the best-stocked alcohol-free bar in O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$

Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers a sparkling citylights view at night, though the attractive grounds are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled

Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-671-4111. $$$

This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan,

Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short

WE ACCEPT VISA, M/C & AMERICAN EXPRESS

State License 765846

rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714-6960888. $$$

Despite the exit of its founding chef, this two-story trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 520 Main St., 714-969-2148.

See Newport Beach location. $$

Jammed on summer weekends, this pierside hangout is named for Hawaiian surfing legend Duke

Kahanamoku. Grilled fish and steaks are fine for

Saturday nights, but the kitchen excels at tasty fish tacos, macadamia nut hummus, and burgers with

Kennebec chips. Monday’s happy hour is from 3:30 to 9 p.m. 317 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-6446. $$

From Sam King of the King’s Fish House fleet comes this overtly dressed-down seafood cantina at the northern edge of coastal O.C. Order the day’s catch from the counter and await delivery of straightforward classics such as pristine oysters, ahi poke,

Idaho trout, and crab galore. Sandwiches, skewers, and worthy clam chowders also recommended. 16600 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-592-2267. $$

Step back in time to colonial Vietnam at this vest-pocket hideaway with only 28 seats.

Chef-owner Tin Vuong amplifies his successful L.A.

Little Sister act with a sultry setting (tucked inside of huge Bluegold) and uncompromising Viet fare inspired by his roots and frequent travels to South

Vietnam. Nifty craft cocktails and luxe dishes such as salt and pepper lobster make a good date night, but we also like the street-style noshes such as prawn crepes and lemongrass skewers. Fair warning: The uncensored rap soundtrack is not for all ears. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0083. $$

This high-profile taqueria expands its O.C. presence with a third epic site, this one in Bella Terra. Eyecandy lighting, a rotating steampunk back bar, and breezy patio compete for attention alongside jazzy drinks and dramatic taco-centric eats. Handmade blue corn tortillas and cheesy Oaxacan fricos give these tacos a signature difference. Ask about the monthly taco special. 7821 Edinger Ave., 714-316-0151. $$ See Irvine and Anaheim locations.

The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.”

The creative menu of American eats is big on highcarb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$

Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring Vietnamese spring rolls at LSXO

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See

Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

Easily overlooked in a strip mall along busy Bolsa

Chica, this slightly hip storefront serves distinctly modern Cal-Asian fare, artfully plated by chef Sean

An. Don’t miss the signature Fat Avo appetizer or entree of braised short rib over black rice. Good sakes, great prices, and a teensy sushi bar are unexpected extras. 16051 Bolsa Chica St., 714-846-6951. $$

Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons.

Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft drinks, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The new morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro

Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork

T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$

A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and

black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$

This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$

This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban

Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to handmade pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center

Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$

We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.

A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.

See Costa Mesa location. $$$

It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. First-timers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed

Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with