Vanguard University’s Priceless Luncheon

Locals and escaped Montage resort guests slip in for seaside cuisine with an Asian inflection at this

Coast Highway venue. The dusky digs and sexy ’tude make it a good stop for appetizers and cocktails.

Ample free parking is a plus. 30832 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9200. $$$

NEW This retooled historic venue is forging a contemporary Latin approach that blends the foodways of Mexico with those of Peru, Chile,

Argentina, and Puerto Rico. Mexico City-born Alan

Sanz brings a worldly resumé to his executive chef post with polished fusion dishes including birria arepas, blackberry mole duck, epazote pesto pasta, and house-made desserts. Patio seating is popular, but the bar also beckons for a fine Cuban sandwich. 222 Ocean Ave., 949-715-8155 Closed Mondays. $$$

Lagunatics and sightseers mingle at this lively openair cafe, where the martinis are as popular as the modern California cuisine. Noisy, cramped quarters are overlooked once the waiter brings your day boat scallops. Primo people-watching from the tables fronting one of the village’s busiest sidewalks. 230

Forest Ave., 949-494-2545. $$$

The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$

Chic and breezy as a Baja resort, this sprawling spot has its act together, luring local crowds for upscale

Mexican classics. An unending flow of worthy margaritas keeps the white marble bar humming while the kitchen churns out well executed shrimp ceviche, carnitas, combo plates, and short rib enchiladas. Huge portions, sharp service, and modern digs seal the deal. Scores of sipping tequilas delight agave fans. 28141 Crown Valley Parkway, 949-4097380. $$$

Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes, Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this optionlean suburb. It’s from the group behind Laguna

Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef.

A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. $$

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg.

Green corn tamales (available seasonally) have achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef

David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s

Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$

This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled

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O.C. Scene PEOPLE | PARTIES | EVENTS | OPENINGS

Vanguard University’s (VU’s) Global Center for Women and Justice (GCWJ) held its 8th annual Priceless Luncheon to continue developing resources and education for advocates to study the issues, serve as a voice and make a difference in the fight to end human trafficking. For the first time, the event was held on the Vanguard University campus at the Waugh Student Center, a state-of-the-art building that opened in February 2020. While implementing COVID-19 safety precautions, approximately 250 guests raised over $200,000 to aid the GCWJ in its fight to bring dignity, justice and freedom to women, children and families around the world.

Photo Credit: Breanna Farey

menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly

Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gastropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa

Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. $$

Though you won’t see ocean waves, waterfront seating on the quiet bay abounds at this relaxed venue inside the Newport Dunes Resort. A broad

Euro-Cal menu keeps the resort crowd happy, while improved wines and slick details such as a retracting roof and valet parking lure the locals. 1131 Back

Bay Drive, 949-999-3170. $$$

Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a

winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping. Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for re-laxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro

Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite.

Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949-520-7191. $$$

Classic rich chowder, grilled trout, and fried clams share the daily menu with modern dishes such as zesty cioppino and mahi-mahi sliders with jalapeno aioli. A seasoned crew smoothly shifts from icy platters of just-shucked oysters, to salt-and-pepper shrimp. The menu boasts seasonal specials as well. 630 Lido Park Drive, 949-675-3474. $$

From the cognoscenti of Il Fornaio, this is the perfect

SoCal vision of an upscale Italian trattoria. The big draws are the fresh-baked breads, pizzas, pastas, and risotto dishes. Don’t miss the bigoli alla Padovana

with big strands of perciatelli and the bold flavors of house-made sausage mingled with porcini mushrooms. 545 Newport Center Drive, 949-640-0900. $$

The 1921 landmark structure has dazzled diners for more than 50 years with its waterfront site, pristine seafood, and top chops. Executive chef Marcus Hagan keeps the menu relevant by adding new dishes, say baked Peruvian scallops, to classics such as the trusted lobster roll. Also check out The Snug, a cozy bar downstairs, carved from the main dining room. Dockside dining offered for boaters. 3010

Lafayette Road, 949-566-0060. $$$

Despite the exit of its founding chef, this trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 6700 W. Coast Highway, 949-645-2148.

See Huntington Beach location. $$

Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads. Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique and lots of quirky-chic furnishings for sale. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony

Fashion Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949-7061416. See Irvine location. $$

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Wildfish lures a loyal following. The finely calibrated menu of pristine seafood and first-class steaks keeps the glossy room and fireplace patio hopping, especially for nightly happy hour deals when upscale locals crowd the sleek bar. Urbane service.

Strong wine list. 1370 Bison Ave., 949-720-9925. $$$

From the family behind Dublin 4 comes this lush addition to the area across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with

Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$

Dry-aged steaks star at this red meat specialist, supported by a luxe array of seafood starters. New a la carte lunch options include a filet mignon wedge salad. The sensational happy hour is one of Fashion

Island’s most popular. Another house signature: an all-star wine list with more than 100 choices by the glass. 455 Newport Center Drive, 949-720-9633. $$$

Heavenly biscuits, baked to order, and pristine oysters, shucked to order (in season), are two reasons to visit this popular bar and restaurant.

The sand-floor patio with glowing fire pit attracts singles, while the ocean-fresh fare draws foodies.

If freshly caught seafood doesn’t appeal, there are terrestrial dishes such as mustard barbecue beef ribs. 850 Avocado Ave., 949-718-0188. $$$

One of O.C.’s most iconic landmarks, the 1906 Balboa

Pavilion still lures visitors to its harbor view, and celebrants to its sweeping ballroom for special events and weddings galore. Expect a safe menu

of all-American classics. Locals love that happy hour starts at 11:30 a.m. 400 Main St., 949-673-4633. $$

Executive chef Andy Arndt offers sustainable coastal cuisine at this indoor-outdoor venue with a Pacific view. Start with Hawaiian shrimp with hearts of palm, yuzu kosho, and mint. The day’s catch varies by season, but landlubbers can indulge in Anderson

Valley lamb sirloin or a 40-ounce tomahawk chop with balsamic sprouts. A chill lounge is apropos for cold brews, small plates, and comfy game watching.

Newport Beach Marriott Hotel & Spa, 900 Newport

Center Drive, 949-729-6900. $$$

This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

Moulin is the passion project of Paris native Laurent Vrignaud. After 30 years in the action-sports industry, he lives his longtime dream of serving bistro classics, selling oven-fresh baguettes and grab-and-go dishes, and peddling wines and other

French pantry items. The unfussy bistro and patio evoke Paris at every turn. It’s O.C.’s gathering spot for expats and Francophiles. 1000 Bristol St. North, 949-474-0920. Locations (not reviewed) in Laguna

Beach and Costa Mesa. $$

Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive,

Newport Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$

After three decades at its vintage location, this vestpocket bistro owned by Jacques and Olga de Quillien is as cozy and classically French as ever. The blackboard $40 prix fixe rules supreme, but you can also indulge in classics that would thrill Julia

Child: braised rabbit, duck confit with frites, and luscious ratatouille. Seasoned servers keep the regulars content, so it’s no wonder that diners quietly keep this gem their secret. 3325 Newport Blvd., 949-6756990. Dinner only. $$

This is the O.C. outpost of the rustic, reverent Italian cuisine brought so smashingly to L.A. in 2006 by luminaries Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joe

Bastianich. Picture-perfect pizzas with heady toppings, delightful antipasti, comforting al forno dishes, and A+ desserts attract eager crowds to this simple, boxy space. Local beers, Italian wines, and a full bar.

Don’t miss the cauliflower fritti, caprese salad, and any pizza with pork. Butterscotch budino is a gold rush, too. 800 W. Coast Highway, 949-945-1126. $$$

Peter Sabatino used to deliver his mom’s sausages door to door in Chicago. Now customers come to him in Newport Beach, where he sells 300 to 400 pounds a day from his restaurant. The old-school

Italian menu and comfy patio make it a relaxing spot for first dates or family dinners of pastas, seafood, and, of course, dishes loaded with his secretrecipe sausages. 251 Shipyard Way, 949-723-0621.

Beer and wine. $$

This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two.

Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823

Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view.

Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include

Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$

Fresh, spunky flavors of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula lure the coastal crowd to this bayside cantina. A kickin’ bar with crackling fireplace serves tasty cocktails, many made from scores of artisan tequilas. 251 E.

Coast Highway, 949-675-9800. $$$

The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its

own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes.

Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949706-3622. $$$

With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$

David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes. Stand out new dishes for dinner and weekend brunch include red snapper Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty pre-sunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside Drive, 949-673-8464. $$

The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC

Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast

Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers, especially in summer. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef

Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15

Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$

Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949-715-7373. $$$

The finest French bistro south of Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$

O.C.’s flashiest hipsters gather here to be nursed like they’re bleeding cash. And they are. Megamartinis, obese lobsters, and Bible-thick steaks don’t come cheap, but this dramatic setting does offer the ocean view and suave service worthy of its position as our finest castle of cholesterol consumption. Thursdays Salmon gravlax at Marché Moderne

are famed for singles action that approaches tournament level. 8112 E. Coast Highway, 949-376-6990.

See South Coast Metro location. $$$

James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511.

Beer and wine. $$

This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as

Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123

Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

Old Towne’s newest gastropub thoughtfully transforms a historic corner into a lively whiskey bar serving worthy eats with a southern accent. Look for parm-crusted meatloaf, gulf shrimp and grits, and a yowza burger. The service is sharp. Sunday brunch and a robust midweek happy hour. 118 W.

Chapman Ave., 714-716-1599. $$ HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR

A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell

St., 714-221-0680. $$

Gustatory delights worthy of Gatsby attract diners on special occasions to this gracious hacienda, where dinners are seven-course pageants that start with bubbly and nibbles in the wine cellar, and end hours later on the cigar patio. Each night’s menu is set weeks in advance—and so are most reservations. 2932 E. Chapman Ave., 714-997-1972. Reservations required. $$$

Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho

Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba

Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$

This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente

Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect

Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$

The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino

Real, 949-429-1199. $$

Deep South and down-home despite the modern exterior, the Southern-Creole eats here are designed to help diners relax and let the good times roll. 555

N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2855. Dinner only. $$$

Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu

Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably

Tuscan toast, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich.

The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402

S. El Camino Real, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $

On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist.

Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna

Beach location. $$ SOUTH OF NICK’S

From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team

behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110

N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$

A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle

East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$

This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its fauxramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211

Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$

A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district,

Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752

Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$

Quirky but capable, this Santa Ana newcomer goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root puree. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714-480-0225. $$

This intrepid Mexican canteen offers less-familiar dishes—corundas, roast quail—alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán native Sergio Ortega previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and Sunday brunch. Commendable cocktails. 400 N. Broadway, 714-852-3256. $$

Deceptively bare bones, the menu offers about 20 dishes, each showcasing a regional recipe fromBurrata at Mayfield

Mexico’s distinctive territories. Don’t miss a sublime aguachile verde. Also impressive: crisp tacos ahogado in hot broth. We loved the guajillo salsa-soaked bread in the open-face pork pambazo at brunch.

Inventive cocktails lean on mezcal and house-made bitters. The vintage site with soaring ceilings seats 115 and boasts modern artwork. Expect kind, unflappable service. 301 N. Spurgeon St., 714-338-2446. $$

Offbeat but not outlandish, this Artists Village indie draws an eclectic crowd for creative cocktails and lusty pub grub, often with a Latin twist. Inside, the quarters are dark and chummy, while the Euroesque patio opens to the village promenade. 211 W.

Second St., 714-972-1172. $$

DTSA got a major dining upgrade with this winner from chef-owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multicourse meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. $$$

Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.

Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-5575679. $$$

For more than three decades South Coast Plaza’s

Italian grand diva has reigned for ultrafine feasting

on authentic, traditional dishes backed by a savvy wine selection deep with Italian stars. House-made pastas, breads, and desserts. The restaurant’s aura of privilege is underscored by pampering service for VIPs. A full-service wine bar is the latest update. 3800 South Plaza Drive, 714-751-7153. $$$

Upscale yet low key, full service Crudo gets a bit lost amid The Hall’s 10,000-square-foot wonderland of casual offerings, but do search out the latest menu from Amar Santana. It stars seasonal riffs on crudos exploding with worldly flavors plus endless choices from the raw bar, charcuterie list, and don’t-miss intricate cocktails by bar star Michael

Rooney. Patio seating highly recommended. 3333

Bristol St., 714-515-5544. $$

Don’t let the chandeliers and acres of marble deceive—this convivial Persian dining room isn’t staid or formal. It’s de facto party central for the county’s Persian expats, their kin, and others who enjoy superb renditions of Middle Eastern kebabs, rice dishes, and classics such as fesenjon, a savory meat entree. Efficient service and huge portions make this a good choice for groups. 3800 South

Plaza Drive, 714-557-6600. $$

Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for xiao long bao, juicy pork dumplings, handpleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. 3333 Bristol St., 714-549-3388. $$

Sushi master artist James Hamamori applies persuasive talent to this South Coast Plaza penthouse dazzler of a sushi bar. Son Jim is now behind the bar, too, but this heavenly venue also shows off non-sushi dishes such as uni floating in edamame puree, Kobe rissole, and miso-marinated lamb chops. Omakase is truly top-notch. 3333 Bear St., 714-850-0880. $$$

Rainbow xiao long bao at Paradise Dynasty

Knife Pleat replaces long-gone Marché Moderne in the penthouse of South Coast

Plaza. The radically transformed 80-seat setting is a clear signal that this French arrival is wholly apart from its predecessor. Chef Tony Esnault and partner

Yassmin Sarmadi are new to O.C. though acclaimed in Los Angeles, and in the case of Esnault, covered in Michelin star dust after years with mentor Alain

Ducasse. Esnault is a disciple of the seasons; his style is light, graceful, and precise as revealed by escargot ravioli in broth, his famous legumes de saison, or the ultrarefined cassoulet. Don’t skip Germain Biotteau’s indulgent desserts. 3333 Bristol St., 714-266-3388. $$$

Be prepared for gargantuan portions, with drinks to match. Mastro’s offers Prime steaks, wet-aged for 28 days. A hand-cut, 33-ounce chef’s ribeye, and a 48-ounce, double-cut porterhouse will tame the manliest appetite. Retro sides include twice-baked potato, and creamed spinach. 633 Anton Blvd., 714546-7405. See Newport Coast location. Dinner only. $$$

Steaks, including a 48-ounce porterhouse and a double-cut filet mignon, are wet-aged three to four weeks. Fill your plate with giant sides of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer happy hour deals, early and late night, Sunday through Friday. 1641 W.

Sunflower Ave., 714-444-4834. See Anaheim location. $$$

Singapore’s largest restaurant group opts for the

Bloomingdale’s end of South Coast Plaza for its first

U.S. operation with this wildly popular soup dumpling specialist that pioneered xiao long bao, oozing with luxury ingredients that include black truffles, foie gras, and crab roe. Ultramodern digs seat diners in view of an exhibition kitchen where 20 artisans handcraft a steady flow of dumplings to support a 75-dish menu starring dim sum and Sichuan classics.

Walk-up wait list. 3333 Bristol St., 714-617-4630 $$

Chef-partner Mike Ritter and crew create Cajun-

Creole magic in 12 steam-heated steel caldrons that cook seductive versions of gumbo, chowder, and the legendary pan poast—a heady concoction of various shellfish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices, topped with a dome of perfect jasmine rice—that’s by far the bestselling dish.

And don’t miss the mean po’boy sandwich. 1421 W.

MacArthur Blvd., 714-850-1380. Beer and wine. $$

Arun Puri, the creator behind Orange County’s first

Indian restaurant, is still buying the spices and manning the tandoor oven in the skilled kitchen at this upscale choice for first-rate renditions of classics such as butter chicken, tikka masala, and the signature Khyber’s Nectar, a dish of slow-cooked lamb shanks said to be an aphrodisiac. 1621 W.

Sunflower Ave., 714-436-1010. $$

Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at South

Coast Plaza. This venue lacks a full bar, but it has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center.

Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear St., 657-231-6447. $$

Top chef Amar Santana and ace partner Ahmed

Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana sidesteps the “eat local” crusade, offering peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails. Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent wood-grilled steaks, dryaged in-house. Dinner tables at prime times are scarce, so plan, wait, or aim for lunch. 695 Town Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$

Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind

Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door. Signature dishes include Capperi e Olive (casarecca),

Aglione (bucatini), and grilled porterhouse for two. 405 El Camino Real., 714-258-8817. $$

Gabbi and Ed Patrick of Gabbi’s Kitchen chose Old Town to show off the county’s most sophisticated take on the regional fare of Mexico’s wondrous Yucatan Peninsula, naming their new location after the Mayan rain god. The dazzling space features a retractable roof and sliding Roman shades to lovely effect. Must-have dishes include sikil pec, a roasted pumpkin seed dip, as well as cochinita pibil and carne cruda. 215 El Camino Real, 657-699-3019. $$$

The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners

JC Clow and William Lewis from their previous gig at Morton’s, with executive chef Yvon Goetz in tow.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. If the 7,500-bottle wine cellar isn’t enough, you can always purchase a private wine locker. 2647 Park Ave., 714-258-7600.

See Newport Beach location. $$$

The Yellow Chilli is by Sanjeev Kapoor, India’s megacelebrity chef. Bigger than Wolfgang or Martha. The massive menu proves the master chef isn’t stingy with recipes, after writing more than 150 cookbooks.

Knowledgeable servers help navigate the options.

Don’t miss Sham Savera, one of Kapoor’s most famous creations: open-face spinach dumplings filled with fresh white paneer that float in silky tomato gravy spiked with garlic, cardamom, and mace. 2463 Park Ave., 714-389-5280. $$

Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish. Expect Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic meze starters. The patio cafe out back stays busy at lunch and weekend breakfast. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855.

See Newport Coast location. $$$

Keep up with the latest Orange County food trends at orangecoast.com.