Thank you for your purchase and welcome to the Laguna Tools group of discriminating woodworkers. I understand that you have a choice of where to purchase your machines and appreciate the confidence you have in our products. Every machine sold by Laguna Tools has been carefully designed and well thought through from a woodworker’s perspective. I cut on our bandsaws, lathes, table saws and combination machines. Through my hands-on experience, I work hard to make our machines better. I strive to give you machines that inspire you to create works of art. Machines that are a joy to run and work on. Machines that encourage your performance. Today, we offer high-performance machines with innovative solutions that meet the needs of woodworkers and their ever-evolving craft. I started Laguna Tools as a woodworker; I still am. Thank you again for becoming a Laguna Tools customer.
Torben Helshoj President and Founder – Laguna Tools Thriving on Innovation
Copyright 2010 Laguna Tools, Inc ** Warning – no portion of these materials may be reproduced without written approval from Laguna Tools, Inc. All documentation subject to change without notice
Table of contents Page number Safety Rules
Receiving your machine
Introduction to Table Saws
Parts of the machine
Where to locate your machine
Unpacking your machine
What you will receive with the machine
Levelling the machine
Assembly and setup
Using and adjusting the machine
Maintenance and troubleshooting
Exploded view drawings and parts lists
Safety Rules As with all machinery, there are certain hazards involved with the operation and use. Using it with caution will considerably lessen the possibility of personal injury. However, if normal safety precautions are overlooked or ignored, personal injury to the operator may result. If you have any questions relative to the installation and operation, do not use the equipment until you have contacted your supplying distributor. Read the following carefully before operating the machine: 1. Keep the working area clean and be sure adequate lighting is available. 2. Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, bracelets, necklaces or ornaments. Wear face, eye, respiratory and body protection devices as indicated for the operation or environment. 3. Be sure that the power is disconnected from the machine before tools are serviced or an attachment is to be fitted or removed. 4. Never leave the machine with the power on. 5. Do not use dull, gummy or cracked cutting tools. 6. Be sure that the keys and adjusting wrenches have been removed and all the nuts and bolts are secured.
Limited Warranty New woodworking machines sold by Laguna Tools carry a one-year warranty from the date of shipping. Laguna Tools guarantees all new machines sold to be free of manufacturerâ€™s defective workmanship, parts and materials. We will repair or replace, without charge, any parts determined by Laguna Tools, Inc., to be a manufacturer's defect. We require the defective item/part to be returned to Laguna Tools. In the event the item/part is determined to be damaged due to lack of maintenance, cleaning or misuse/abuse, the customer will be responsible for the cost to replace the item/part, plus all related shipping charges. This limited warranty does not apply to natural disasters, acts of terrorism, normal wear and tear, product failure due to lack of maintenance or cleaning, damage caused by accident, neglect, lack of or inadequate dust collection, or misuse/abuse or damage caused when repair or alterations have been made or attempted by others. Laguna Tools, Inc., is not responsible for additional tools or modifications sold or performed (other than from/by Laguna Tools, Inc.) on any Laguna Tools, Inc., woodworking machine. Warranty may be voided upon the addition of such noted tools and/or modifications, determined on a case-by-case basis. Normal user alignment, adjustment, tuning and machine settings are not covered by this warranty. It is the responsibility of the user to understand basic woodworking machinery settings and procedures and to properly maintain the equipment in accordance with the standards provided by the manufacturer. Parts, under warranty, are shipped at Laguna Tools, Incâ€™s, cost either by common carrier, FedEx Ground service or a similar method. Technical support to install replacement parts is primarily provided by phone, fax or e-mail. The labor required to install replacement parts is the responsibility of the user. Laguna Tools is not responsible for damage or loss caused by a freight company or other circumstances not in our control. Only new machines sold to the original owner are covered by this warranty. For warranty repair information, call 1-800-332-4094.
Noise emission. Notes concerning noise emission: Given that there exists a relationship between noise level and exposure times, it is not precise enough to determine the need for supplementary precautions. The factors affecting the true level of exposure to operators are clearly the amount of time exposed, the characteristics of the working environment, other sources of dust and noise, etc. For example, adjacent machines, in other words, affect the level of ambient noise. It is possible that exposure level limits will vary from country to country. Specification sheet. 10-inch machine [3 blade] Table saw Blade capacity Spindle diameter Blade speed Blade tilt Max depth of cut Scoring blade Spindle diameter Blade speed Motor Table size
10 inch 30 mm 4050 rpm 90 to 45 degrees 2 1/4 inches at degrees 1 5/8 inches at 45 degrees 3 1/2 inches 20 mm 9000 rpm 3 hp 3 phase 220 volts 48 inches x 33 inches
Planer Table size Max height Max depth of cut Motor Cutter head Cutter speed Feed rate Dust port
250 mm x 600 mm 180 mm (7 inches) 2.5 mm 2 hp 3 phase 220 volts 3 blade 4800 rpm 8 mm/min 4 inches diameter
Jointer Table size Max width Max depth of cut Dust port Fence tilt
250 mm x 1085mm 250 mm 2.5 mm 4 inches diameter 90 to 45 degrees
Mortiser Spindle speed Table size Vertical stroke Lateral stroke Table vertical travel Tool diameter Motor
4800 rpm 161mm x 368mm 0 to 80 mm 0 to 140 mm 0 to 90 mm 16 mm 2 hp 220 volts 3 phase
Shaper Spindle diameter Spindle travel Max cutter diameter Motor Spindle speed Dust port
30 mm 130 mm 140 mm 3 hp 220 volts 3 phase 3500, 5500, 7000 rpm 4 inch diameter
Receiving your machine. Note: It is probable that your machine will be delivered by a third party. Before you unpack your new machine, you will need to first inspect the packing, invoice and shipping documents supplied by the driver. Insure that there is no visible damage to the packing or the machine. You need to do this prior to the driver leaving. All damage must be noted on the delivery documents and signed by you and the delivery driver. You must then contact the seller [Laguna Tools] within 24. Introduction to combination machines. This combination machine is designed to give you years of safe service. Read this ownerâ€™s manual in its entirety before assembly or use. The machine is a compact one-stop shop with the following functions. Table saw, jointer, planer, shaper and mortiser all built into one machine.
Parts of the machine.
1. Sliding table. 2. Table clamp. 3. Table saw fence. 4. Blade angle adjustment handle. 5. Support rail. 6. Emergency stop button. 7. Support table. 8. Main saw table. 9. Identification plate.
1. Fence clamp handle. 2. Blade vertical adjustment handle. 3. Blade angle clamp handle. 4. Motor control box. 5. Sliding table.
1. Body. 2. Mortiser. 3. Mortiser slot width handle. 4. Mortiser vertical adjustment handle. 5. Jointer guard. 6. Jointer fence. 7. Jointer table vertical adjustment handle. 8. Jointer/planer stop and start button. 9. Mortiser chuck. 10. Table saw dust port. 11. Jointer/planer dust port.
Sliding table. The sliding table is manufactured from heavy-duty aluminium extrusion and is attached to the cabinet. The table is adjustable for being level and vertical. The table is supported by ball bearings that roll on polished flat plates. The advantage of the bearing system is that there is only point contact between the balls and the plates, which virtually eliminates the problem of dirt building up, and the sliding table will remain accurate for many years. Table clamp. The table clamp is attached to the sliding table “T” slot. It can be adjusted along the length of the “T” slot to suit the job. It is a heavy steel construction and is vertically adjustable. The clamp action is over center cam. Table saw fence. The table saw fence is adjustable along an extension rail, which is attached to the side of the main table. The fence is designed to give superior rigidity and is adjustable for being parallel to the blade. Blade angle adjustment handle. The blade angle adjustment handle is located at the front of the cabinet and adjusts the blade angle from 90 to 45 degrees. It has a locking handle, which is located at the side of the machine. Support rail. The support rail is an aluminium extrusion and supports the extension table. It is located on the front of the machine. Emergency stop button. The emergency stop button is located on the front of the machine and when pressed remains in the off position. To reset the emergency stop button, twist until the button pops out. Support table. The support table is a welded construction and is attached to the side of the sliding table. It can be moved along the sliding table to suit the job at hand. It is adjustable vertically and for parallelism to the sliding table.
Main saw table. The saw table is manufactured from cast iron and is attached to the cabinet. The table is adjustable for level and vertical. Identification plate. There is an identification plate at the front of the machine, listing all the manufacturing data including the serial number, model, etc. Fence clamp handle. The fence is clamped in position using the fence clamp handle located at the side of the fence casting. Blade vertical adjustment handle. The blade vertical adjustment handle is located at the side of the machine. It is locked in position with a clamp screw located behind the handle. Blade angle clamp handle. The blade can be set at various angles and is clamped in position with the clamp handle, which is located at the side of the machine. Motor control box. Switches control the motor located on the control box. The control box is located on the side of the machine. Body. The body of the machine is a welded construction from heavy-gauge steel plate. The heavy construction gives the machine a stable base that is less susceptible to vibration. Mortiser. The mortiser is a heavy cast iron construction that is located on the back of the machine. Mortiser slot width handle. The slot width handle controls the movement of the table between stops. Mortiser vertical adjustment handle. The vertical adjustment handle moves the table of the mortiser vertically.
Jointer guard. The jointer guard can be adjusted vertically to suit the job. It can also be adjusted laterally to suit the position of the fence. Jointer fence. The jointer fence is constructed from a heavy aluminium extrusion and can be adjusted angularly from 90 to 45 degrees. Jointer table vertical adjustment handles. The jointer vertical adjustment handles are located under the tables at the back of the machine. The handles adjust the in-feed and out-feed tables in relationship to the cutter head. Jointer/planer stop and start button. The jointer/planer stop and start buttons are located at the back of the machine. Mortiser chuck. The mortiser chuck is attached to the end of the jointer/planer cutter head. Table saw dust port. The table dust is located on the side of the machine and will accommodate a 4inch dust collection hose. It connects to the bottom of the trunnion assembly and collects the sawdust as it leaves the blade. There is a 1 1/2 inch pipe to low connection to the blade guard. You will need a dust collection system with a minimum of 1,000 cubic feet per minute (the stronger the better). Jointer/planer dust port. The jointer/planer dust port is part of the yellow cutter guard and will take a 4inch dust hose. You will need a dust collection system with a minimum of 1,000 cubic feet per minute (the stronger the better). Trunnion. The trunnion assembly is attached to the table. It is of heavy cast iron construction. It houses the motor, saw spindle, riving knife, tilt mechanism, scoring mechanism and vertical movement adjustment. This is the heart for your saw.
Electrical system. The electrical system consists of electrical motors, start switch, stop switch and contactors. A cable is supplied but may not be fitted with a plug, as the type of plug will depend on your installation. If you require a longer cable than the one supplied, the cable that is supplied can be replaced by connecting a new cable to the contactor box (see electrical connection). Throat plate. The throat plate is attached to the main table. Miter fence. The miter fence is manufactured from heavy-duty gauge aluminium extrusion. It is supplied with a flip stop. It can be set at any angle and has built-in stop for 90 and 45 degrees. It is supplied with an adjustable flip stop and can be extended. Where to locate your machine. Before you remove your machine from the pallet, select the area where you will use your machine. There are no hard and fast rules for its location, but below are a few guidelines: 1. There should be an area surrounding the machine suitable for the length of wood that you will be cutting. 2. Adequate lighting. The better the lighting the more accurately and safely you will be able to work 3. Solid floor. You should select a solid, flat floor, preferably concrete or something similar. 4. Locate close to power source and dust collection. 5. Allow an area for the storage of blanks and cut jobs.
Unpacking your machine. 1. Dismantle the box and lift the box off the pallet. 2. Using the knife, cut the plastic wrap. 3. Remove all the parts that have been packed with the machine. 4. Remove the machine from the pallet with a forklift. Note: If you have any doubt about the described procedure, seek professional assistance. Do not attempt any procedure that you feel is unsafe or that you do not have
the physical capability of achieving. Cleaning the machine. Remove the rust protection grease with WD 40 or a similar solvent. It is important that you remove all the grease and re-lubricate with a Teflon-based lubricant because Teflon has less tendency to attract sawdust and cause clogging. You should also wax the table, as this also protects the cast iron from rust and reduces friction. Machine with box removed What you will receive with the machine.
Blade guard dust hose
Mortiser chuck Mortiser handle
Shaper fence and parts Jointer guard
Saw extension table
Blade guard hose support
Straight line shoe
Extension table support rail Leveling the machine. The machine is provided with leveling feet. Move your machine to its final position, and, using a sprit level on the table, adjust the leveling feet so that the table is level in both directions. Ensure that the machine does not rock.
Assembly and setup. Fitting the mortiser Fit the mortiser chuck to the spindle of the jointer/planer. Note. The spindle thread is left handed.
Fit the two fixing bolts to the machine and slide the mortiser onto the bolts. Do not fully tighten.
Mortiser fixing bolt Adjust the table of the mortiser so that the central fixing is in the center of the access hole and fit the fixing bolt snug. Jacking screw
Central fixing bolt
Fit a steel rod into the chuck and tighten. The mortiser table will need to be adjusted parallel.
Steel rod Adjust the table parallel to the steel rod by adjusting the jacking screws and tightening the clamp bolts. It is advisable to use feeler gauges to check that the table is parallel.
Jacking screw Fit the chuck guard with the two fixing bolts.
Chuck guard 20
Fit the clamp shaft to the table and secure with the nut and washer. Note. The clamp can be fitted to either side of the table. Note. The clamp has two holes to allow it to cover the complete table.
Fit the adjusting handle through the top bearing and into the bottom bearing. Fit the vertical adjusting handle and secure with the fixing screw.
Vertical adjusting handle
Fit the fence clamp to the casting with the two fixing bolts. Slide the fence into the clamp and secure with the clamp screw.
Fence Fence clamp Fit the guard arm to the side of the table with the clamp screw.
Clamp screw Guard arm 21
Hold the guard plate under the extrusion with the clamp screw adjusted out.
Guard plate Slide the guard into the aluminum extension and clamp with the clamp screw. The guard can be adjusted vertically with the adjusting screw. Adjusting screw Guard Fit the push/pull handle to the sliding table â€œTâ€? slot. The handle can be fitted at any position along the sliding table to suit.
Push pull handle Attach the extension table rail to the body of the machine so that it is approximately equally on spaced either side of the machine, and clamp in position. The rail position will be adjusted once the extension table is fitted.
Rail clamp 22
The rail has stops at both ends. Remove one stop. Loosen the clamps on the support table. Slide the support bracket into the rail “T” slot. While you are fitting the support bracket to the rail, slide the support table clamps into the sliding table “T” slot in the sliding table. The support table can be positioned at any position along the sliding table to Stop suit the job at hand.
Extension table clamps Extension table
To adjust the extension table level with the top of the sliding table: 1. Loosen the two clamps. 2. Place a straight edge on the sliding table and the extension table. 3. Adjust the screw until the extension table is level with the sliding table. Note. The adjustment must be completed at both sides of the extension table. Note. The level must be checked with the clamps tight. Straight edge
Pivot clamp block Fitting the miter fence. There are two pivot holes (one on each side of the table) to enable the miter fence to be fitted on both sides of the extension table. It can be set at 90 degrees and adjusted Fence pivot between 90 and 45 degrees. Fence pivot hole
Fence The fence can be adjusted toward or away from the blade by loosening the pivot clamp block, moving to the required position and re-clamping. To fit the fence to the table, insert the pivot pin into the selected hole. Push the fence against the table flip stop and lock in position with the clamp under the fence. If required, the table flip stop can be adjusted by loosening the lock nut, rotating the screw to the required position and locking with the locking nut. The adjustment method is 90-degree flip stop covered later.
The fence has an adjustable flip stop.
Fence flip stop
The fence can be extended by loosening the clamp screw (the underside of fence), sliding the extension out and re-clamping.
Fence extension Fit the table clamp to the sliding table “T” slot. The clamp can be slid to any position on the sliding table to suit the job at hand.
The straight line shoe is fitted into the “T” Slot in the sliding table. The shoe is used to cut straight edges on uneven-width plank by jamming the plank under the shoe and clamping the opposite end with the table clamp.
Straight line shoe
Slide the rip fence onto the side rail. Note. The side rail can be fitted in either low or high positions (shown in the low position). Rip fence
Rip fence extension (low position) Side rail
Loosen the clamp screws, slide the fence onto the clamp strip and tighten the clamp screws. Rip fence clamp strip (Rip fence in high position)
To adjust the fence: Loosen the fence lock and move the fence to the approximate position. Clamp the fine adjustment lock. While looking through the curser, move the fine adjustment wheel to adjust the fence to the required position. Fence Clamp the fence in position lock with the fence lock. Fine adjustment wheel
Fine adjustment lock
Fit the shaper fence to the table with the clamp screws. Assemble the shaper guard to the body with the two screws and fit to the fence.
Guard assembly screws
Shaper guard body Dust collection Fence clamp screws Fence lock screw
The fences are sideways adjustable and are locked in position by tightening the clamp screws at the back of the shaper guard. The fences can be moved forward and back by adjusting the fence adjustment screw and locking in position with the clamp screw. Fence adjustment screw 27
To release the guard, pull the guard release handle toward the back of the guard.
Guard release handle
Shaper vertical adjustment handle
Shaper vertical lock handle
The shaper spindle has three speeds: 3500 rpm, 5500 rpm and 7000 rpm. To select the required speed, move the drive belt to the correct pulley by loosening the motor, moving the belt to the correct pulley, re-tensioning the belt and tightening the motor. The belt should
Shaper spindle speed
be tensioned so that there is approximately 1/16-inch deflection of the belt when the belt is pressed with moderate thumb pressure. The pulleys are accessed by opening the side door. The door is fitted with a safety micro switch that removes power from the motor, but this must never be relied on
Safety micro switch
and power must be disconnected from the machine prior to accessing the pulleys or motor. Shaper spindle speed selection pulleys
Motor clamp nut When fitting a cutter head to the molder spindle, lock the spindle with a wrench on the spindle flats.
Fitting a blade. Spindle lock Lock the spindle by inserting rod the spindle lock rod through the hole in the table. The spindle lock rod aligns with a hole in the spindle, and the spindle will need to be rotated until the hole aligns with the rod. Remove the clamp bolt and washer. Assemble the blade onto the spindle, ensuring that the teeth are in the correct direction. Replace the washer and clamp bolt. Loosen the two clamp bolts on the riving knife. Adjust the riving knife to suit the blade and re-clamp. Fit the guard to the riving knife. Fit the dust hose to the blade guard. Fit the dust hose to the dust extraction port. Remove the spindle lock rod. Dust hose
Fitting the scoring blade. Lock the spindle by inserting the spindle lock rod. The spindle lock rod aligns with a hole in the spindle, and the spindle will need to be rotated until the hole aligns with the rod. Remove the clamp screw and washer. Assemble the blade to the spindle, ensuring that the teeth are in the correct direction. Replace the washer and clamp bolt. Remove the spindle lock rod.
Spindle lock rod
Sideways adjusting of the blade. To adjust the blade toward the sliding table, rotate the central screw clockwise. To adjust the blade away from the sliding table, turn the central screw counterclockwise.
Side adjustment Adjusting the blade vertically. To adjust the blade up, loosen screw B and tighten screw A. To lower the blade, loosen screw A and tighten screw B.
Electrical connection. Note. The machine may not be supplied with an electrical plug, as the type of plug will be dependent on the installation. A qualified electrician must carry out the electrical installation. If a longer cable than that supplied is required, the following wire sizes are recommended. Cable size 10.3 gauge for runs of up to 20 ft. For longer runs up to 50 ft, use cable 8-3 gauge. Recommended breaker size Electrical control box is 30 amps. If a longer cable is required, it must be terminated in the junction box located inside the machine. Machine electrical control switches. Never access the electrical control box with the machine connected to the power. Before starting the machine. 1. Read and understand the instruction manual before operating the saw. 2. If you are still not thoroughly familiar with the operation of the saw, get advice from a qualified person. 3. Make sure the machine is properly grounded and that the wiring codes are followed. 4. Do not operate the machine while under the influence of drugs, alcohol or medicine or if tired. 5. Always wear eye protection, safety glasses or a safety shield, and hearing protection. 6. Wear a dust mask. Long-term exposure to the fine dust is not healthy. 7. Remove your tie, rings, watch and all jewelry. Roll up your sleeves and never wear loose clothing. You do not want anything to get caught in the blades or cutters. 8. Make sure that the guards are in place and use them at all times. The guards protect you from coming in contact with the blade/cutters. 9. Make sure that the saw blade teeth point in the correct direction. 10. Stop the machine before removing the scrap piece from the table.
11. Always keep your hands and fingers away from the blade or cutters. 12. Make sure that you use the proper size and type of tools. 13. Hold the work piece firmly against the table. Do not attempt to saw stock that does not have a flat surface facing down. 14. Use a push stick at the end of a cut. This is the most dangerous time because the cut is complete and the blade is exposed. 15. Hold the wood firmly and feed it into the machine at a moderate speed. 16. Turn off the machine if you have to back the material out of an incomplete or jammed cut. To start saw. 1. Turn switch “C” to right, position 2 (saw). 2. Press switch “B” on left (saw/shaper). 3. Press switch “A” on right. To stop saw blade. Press either of the emergency stop buttons or press switch “A” on left. To start shaper. 1. Turn switch “C” to left, position 1 (shaper). 2. Press switch “B” on left (saw/shaper). 3. Press switch “A” on right. To stop shaper. Press either of the emergency stop buttons or press switch “A” on left. To start jointer/planer.
Jointer / plainer start button
1. Turn switch “C” to center “0.” 2. Press switch “B” on left (jointer/planer). 3. Press switch “A” on right. 4. Press green start button. To stop jointer/planer. Press either of the emergency stop buttons or red jointer/planer stop button. Note. To reset the emergency stop button, twist and pull. Jointer/planer stop button
Emergency stop button
Emergency stop button
Machine test. Now is the time to test the machine. Note. To reset the emergency stop button, twist and pull out. 1. Check that the machine is clear of all tools and other loose objects. 2. Check that all the adjusting and locking handles are tight. 3. Check that there is no blade or cutter fitted; it is far safer to test the machine without a blade or cutter fitted. 4. Start the saw described earlier in the manual. 5. The saw arbor is now turning. 6. Now is the time to check that the safety switch is functioning correctly before you fit a blade. 7. With the machine running (no blade fitted), operate the red stop switch by pressing toward the machine. The motor should have the power removed and slow down. 8. If the safety switch fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected. 9. Start the shaper as described earlier in the manual. 10. With the machine running (no cutter head fitted), operate the red emergency stop switch by pressing toward the machine. The motor should have the power removed and slow down. 11. If the safety switch fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected.
12. Start the jointer/planer as described earlier in the manual. 13. With the machine running, operate the red emergency stop switch by pressing toward the machine. The motor should have the power removed and slow down. 14. If the safety switch fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected. 15. Start the jointer/planer as described earlier in the manual. 16. With the machine running, operate the red stop switch by pressing toward the machine. The motor should have the power removed and slow down. 17. If the stop switch fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected. 18. Start the jointer as described earlier in the manual. 19. With the machine running, lift the out-feed table until the safety micro switch operates. The motor should have the power removed and slow down. 20. If the safety micro switch fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected. 21. Set the machine in planer configuration. 22. Start the planer as described earlier in the manual. 23. With the machine running, lift the duct chute until the safety micro switch operates. The motor should have the power removed and slow down. 24. If the safety micro switch fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected. Before you cut any wood, read the safety rules at the front of this manual. Fit the dust extraction hose. Fit a 4-inch dust extraction hose between the machine and your dust extractor. Note. You will need a dust collection system with a minimum of 1,000-cubicfeet-per-minute capacity. The stronger the dust collection, the better, as the machine is capable of producing a lot of waste.
Using and adjusting the machine. Adjustments. Note. The machine has had all its functions calibrated at the factory, but some movement may have taken place due to shipping conditions. This is unavoidable, and it is recommended that the following checks are made prior to starting production. As the machine is used, some functions may move and it is, therefore, good practice to know the process for adjusting the machine prior to production. Sliding table adjustments. The sliding table is locked in position with a spring-loaded lock pin that aligns with a hole when the table is level with the end of the carriage.
Spring-loaded lock pin Vertical jacking bolts Sliding table clamp bolts
Side stop bolt
The sliding table comes factory set, but should adjustment be required, below is the procedure: Sliding table adjustment for parallel with the saw blade . The table must run parallel with the saw blade. The gap between the edge of the sliding table and the table is not important. To check if the table is running true, clamp a piece of wood (1 in x 1 in or 2 in x 2 in) to the table. Cut the wood slowly. The teeth of the saw blade should make contact with the front and the back of the blade evenly. If the table is not cutting parallel, adjust as follows. Note. Only adjust one end of the sliding table. 1. Loosen the sliding table clamp bolt. 2. Loosen the lock nut on the side stop bolt and adjust the side stop bolt either in or out, depending on the adjustment required. Tighten the lock nut.
3. With the sliding table tight against the side stop bolt, tighten the sliding table clamp bolt. Tighten the lock nut. 4. Recheck if the table is running parallel as described earlier and readjust if required. Note. It is recommended that adjustments are carried out in small increments, and you will find that it is quicker to use small adjustments rather than trying to adjust in one big step.
Adjusting the sliding table level with the main table. Using a straight edge, check that the sliding table is level with the main table. (The main table should be 0 in to 0.004 inch lower than the sliding table.) The table comes factory set, but should adjustment be required, jacking screws are provided in the black steel block. 1. Loosen the lock nuts on the clamp bolt and the jacking bolts. 2. Loosen the clamp bolt. 3. Adjust the jacking bolts either up or down, depending on the adjustment required. 4. Ensure that the table is tight against the side stop, then bolt and tighten the clamp bolt. 5. Recheck for level. 6. Tighten all the lock nuts.
Vertical jacking bolts
Sliding table clamp bolt Note. Unless the sliding table is tilted to the main table, adjust both jacking bolts the same amount. Note. Check both ends of the table for level. Note. Adjust one end of the table at a time.
Side stop bolt
Fine-tuning the miter fence. Several methods are acceptable to fine-tune the fence, but we have found that the following is a very practical way to achieve a square panel: 1. Clamp the fence locked at 90 degrees against the stop. 2. Clamp a sheet onto the sliding table and cut a straight edge (“A”). Mark “A.” 3. Move the sheet so that edge “A” is tight against the fence, clamp in position, cut edge “B” and mark “B.” 4. Flip the sheet so that edge “A” is still against the fence, but edge “B” is furthest away from the saw blade. Cut edge “C” and mark “C.” 5. If the sheet is cut square, edges “B” and “C” should be parallel. Check this by measuring across the width of the sheet at both ends. Note. This method will double the amount of error, and any adjustment that is required should be halved. Also, the stop is closer to the table than the end of the sheet, so only adjust the stop in very small amounts. Example: If you are using a 2 ft x 2 ft sheet and you are out of parallel by 1/16 in, adjust the stop 0.01 in and repeat the cuts. First cut. Second cut.
Measure both ends.
Move the fence to the other set of holes and repeat the procedure.
Move the fence to the other set of holes and repeat the procedure. Fitting the miter gauge for angular cuts. Fit the extrusion to the center hole and the slot. Note. Ensure that the 90-degree pins are in the down position. Move fence to the required angle and Feed roller lever clamp.
Planer. Engaging the feed rollers. With the motor running, move the feed roller lever from the stop position to the engaged position (up). Setting the planer depth scale. The simplest way to check if the planer scale is set correctly is to machine a piece of wood. Check the finished thickness of the wood and check that the scale is reading the correct dimension. If adjustment is required, loosen the gauge clamp screws and adjust the scale.
Table lock Cutter head
Anti-kickback teeth The anti-kickback teeth Antimust be free to move, or kickback they will not fulfill their teeth function. With the power disconnected, check that all the teeth move freely. If they do not, lubricate with Teflon-based lubricant.
Fitting blades to parallel blade cutter head. Blades must be HSS 250 x 30 x 3 mm and must meet the requirements of EN847. WARNING! Disconnect the machine from the mains before any adjustment. 1. Lift the tables to the vertical position. 2. Release the clamping screws. 3. The blade will be released, and the springs will eject the blade. 4. Remove the blade and clean the bearing surface. 5. Clean the new blade carefully. It is very sharp and can cut you very easily. 6. Insert the new blade and tighten the clamping screws using a suitable blade height setting fixture or gauge to set the blade to the correct height. Note. Screw tightening sequence. Start tightening the center screw and work outwards on either side of the center screw. Note. The maximum amount that the blade can extend past the surface of the cutter head is 1.1 mm. It is recommended that you set the blades to 0.7 to 0.8 mm above the cutter head. Note. Before you close the tables and start the machine, check that all the clamping screws are tight. WARNING! Never use blades that are narrower than 17 mm, as the clamping area is too small and there is a real danger that the blades can fly out of the machine, causing injury or death.
Out-feed table Converting from jointer to planer. 1. Release the out-feed table lock and lift the table. 2. Release the in-feed table lock and lift the table. 3. Lift the dust collection chute and ensure that the black spring clip is engaged with the pin to lock it in position.
Black spring clip
Dust collection hood
Note. When the out-feed table is in the jointer position, it depresses a shaft that activates a micro switch. This is a safety device, and if the micro switch is not connected, the jointer will not start.
Note. When the dust chute is locked in the planer position, it activates a micro switch. This is a safety device and if the micro switch is not connected, the machine will not start. Jointer. Adjusting the table locking clamps. Note. Disconnect the power from the machine. 1. Lift the tables to the vertical position. 2. Loosen the lock nut, adjust the bolt and tighten the locking nut. 3. Lower the table and engage the locking clamp. 4. Repeat until the locking clamp securely clamps and locks the table.
Table lock bolt
Setting the out-feed table to the cutter head. The out-feed table must be level with the cutter head blade when the blade is at top dead center (T.D.C.) and the table must be locked. 1. Rotate the cutter head so that the blade is at the T.D.C. position. 2. Place a straight edge on the out-feed table over the cutter head and check that the blades just touch the straight edge. Scale
Note. This has to be checked at both sides of the table. Table lock Adjusting the in-feed table. 1. Place a straight edge on the out-feed table so that it overhangs the in-feed table. 2. Release the table lock.
3. Adjust the height of the table with the table height control knob so that both tables are level. 4. Lock the table lock. 5. Check that the table is lined up with the scale at “0.” 6. If adjustment of the scale is required, loosen the screws that clamp the scale and adjust. Note. Never operate the jointer with the table unlocked.
Table height control knob Jointer fence Adjusting the jointer fence. Loosen the clamp handles and move the fence so that it is hard against the stop screw and clamp the handles. Using an engineer’s square, check that the fence is at 90 degrees to the table. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 1. Loosen the lock nut and stop screw. 2. Set the fence to 90 degree to the jointer table using an engineer’s Stop screw and lock nut square and tighten the clamp handles. 3. Adjust the stop screw so that it is tight against the fence stop and tighten the lock nut. 4. Recheck with the engineer’s square and readjust if required.
Maintenance and troubleshooting. All tools and machines require regular maintenance, and this machine is no exception. This section details the general maintenance and care of your machine. In general, we recommend that you only use a Teflon-based lubricant on the machine. Regular oil attracts dust and dirt, and the Teflon tends to dry and has less tendency to accumulate dirt and sawdust on your machine .We also recommend that you wax the tables to help prevent rust. Weekly maintenance. 1. Generally inspect the machine for damage and loose or worn parts. 2. Clean the machine and check that the dust hoses are clear. Make sure that all moving parts are clean and free from sawdust and dirt. 3. Lubricate all moving parts with a Teflon-based lubricant. 4. Wax the table and all non-painted parts. 5. Check blades and cutter teeth for chips and dullness. 6. Check the dust extraction for blockages and any large bits that could cause blockages. Drive belts. The drive belts should last for many years (depending on the usage) but need to be inspected regularly for cracks, cuts and general wear. If damage is found, replace belts. To re-tension the belts, loosen lock nut. The weight of the motor should put enough tension on the belts. Then tighten the lock nut. The belts come factory set, but they should be checked for tension after about 8 hours of use. The belts may to be re-tensioned, as they will have bedded into the â€œVâ€? grooves. Bearings. All bearings are sealed for life and do not require any maintenance. If a bearing becomes faulty, replace it. Rust. The tables are made from steel and cast iron. All non-painted surfaces will rust if not protected. It is recommended that the table be coated with wax. All moving non-painted surfaces should be lubricated/protected with a Teflonbased lubricant.
Troubleshooting. Problem Cause Motor will not start or 1. Emergency button fuses or circuit breakers depressed. blow. 2. Short circuit.
Machine will not start.
Corrective action 1. Rotate until the switch returns to off position 2. Repair or replace short circuit item. 3. Start capacitor faulty. 3. Fit new capacitor. 4. Motor thermal 4. Replace thermal protection circuit protection circuit breaker faulty, or motor breaker in motor or is at fault. replace motor. 5. Open circuit in motor 5. Replace or repair or loose connections. motor or loose connection. 1. Check that the start 1. Fully depress the switch is fully start switch. depressed. 2. Check that the 2. Plug the power cord electrical power cord is into power outlet. plugged into the power outlet. 3. Check that the 3. Reset the breaker. electrical supply is on. 4. With the power 4. Correct the wiring. disconnected from the machine, check that the wiring in the plug is correct. Check that the rubber insulation is stripped enough and is not causing a bad connection. Check that all the screws are tight. 5. With the power 5. Correct the wiring.
Motor tries to start but will not turn.
The machine will not stop. This is a very rare occurrence, as the machine is designed to be fail-safe. If it should occur and you cannot fix the fault, seek professional assistance. The machine must be disconnected from the
disconnected from the machine, check that the wiring to the machine is correct. Check that the rubber insulation is stripped enough and is not causing a bad connection. Check that all the screws are tight. 6. Check that you have the correct power: 220V, not 110V. 7. Check that the ground wire is wired correctly. 1. With the power disconnected from the machine, try to turn the blade by hand. If the blade will not turn, check the reason for the jamming. A typical reason is wood jamming the blade. 2. Capacitor faulty. 3. Motor faulty. 1. Stop switch faulty.
6. Supply correct power. 7. Correct wiring.
1. Remove the reason for the jam.
2. Replace the capacitor. 3. Replace the motor. 1. Replace the stop switch.
power and never run until the fault has been rectified.
Fuses or circuit breakers blow.
Motor will not develop full power or motor speed slows with load, overheats or stalls.
2. Internal contactor faulty. 1. Motor drawing excessive current. 2. Cutter head or motor jammed. 3. Short circuit. 1. Motor run capacitor at fault.
2. Replace the contactor. 1. Repair or replace motor. 2. Remove jam. 3. Repair or replace short circuit item. 1. Replace the capacitor.
2. Machine overloaded. 3. Motor overheating.
Motor overheats and stops.
Cutter head slows or belt squeals when cutting. Loud noise coming from machine.
2. Take smaller cuts. 3. Clean motor, taking care to make sure that all the cooling fins are clean. 4. Short circuit in motor 4. Repair or replace or loose connections. motor/loose connections. 1. Internal terminal 1. Wait until motor has overload protector trips. cooled and then restart. 2. Dull blade. 2. Change blade. 3. Overfeeding the 3. Slow feed rate. wood. 4. Motor cooling fins 4. Clean motor cooling clogged. fins. 5. Excessive ambient 5. Wait for ambient temperature. temperature to cool. 1. V-belt loose. 1. Tighten V-belt
2. V-belt worn out. 1. Motor pulley set screws or keys are
2. Replace V-belt 1. Replace or tighten if necessary.
missing or loose. 2. Drive belts are damaged. Tables are hard to 1. Table spindles are adjust. tight. Tables will not lock. 1. Table locks too high or too low. Excessive snipe. (gouge 1. Out-feed table is too in the end of the board low. that is uneven with the rest of the cut). 2. Operator pushing down on trailing end of job. 3. Job is not supported as it leaves the out-feed of the planer. Job stops or slows 1. Taking too deep of a during cut. cut. 2. Pitch or build up on planer components. Chipping or marks 1. Knots or conflicting (consistent pattern). grain direction in wood. 2. Nicked, chipped or dull blade. 3. Taking too deep of a cut. Furry finish on the grain.
Lines or ridges that run along the board Chatter marks across the face of the board. Uneven blade.
1. Wood has high moisture content or surface wetness. 2. Blunt blades. 1. Nicked or chipped blades. 1. Blades not adjusted at even heights.
2. Replace drive belts. 1. Clean and lubricate spindles. 1. Adjust lock bolts. 1. Reset out-feed table with cutter head.
2. Eliminate downward pressure on trailing end of job. 3. Support the job as it leaves the out-feed of the planer. 1. Take smaller cuts. 2. Clean the tables and cutter head components 1. Inspect job for knots and grain direction; only use good material. 2. Replace the blade. 3. Take smaller cuts. Take small cuts on hard woods. 1. Check moisture content and allow to dry. 2. Replace the blades. 1. Replace blades. 1. Adjust the blades so they are set up evenly in the cutter head.
Chip marks, random pattern.
2. Worn cutter head bearings. 1. Blades are blunt. 2. Too fine a cut. 1. Chips not removed from cutter head.
Board edge is concave 1. Job not held with or convex after jointing. even pressure on infeed and out-feed table during cut. 2. Job started too uneven.
3. Board has excessive bow or twist along its length. 4. Insufficient number of passes.
Tilt mechanism tight.
Vertical mechanism tight.
1. Check that nothing is jamming the mechanism. 2. Check that the worm gear and screw are clean and lubricated. 1. Check that nothing is jamming the mechanism. 2. Check that the worm gear and screw are clean and lubricated. 3. Check that the guide
3. Replace cutter head bearings. 1. Replace the blades. 2. Increase the depth of cut. 1. Use a dust collection system, or a stronger dust collection system. 1. Hold job with even pressure as it moves over the cutter head. 2. Take small cuts to remove the extreme high spots before doing a full pass. 3. Surface plane one face so there is a good surface to position against the fence. 4. It may take 3 to 5 passes to achieve a good edge, depending on starting condition of board and depth of cut. 1. Remove the jam.
1. Remove the jam.
3. Clean and re-
plate is not jamming.
Saw. Poor cut.
Saw blade slows down during a cut.
4. Inspect the guide plate and bearing plate for wear and damage. 1. Dull blade. 2. Bent tooth. 3. Wrong type of blade for the job. 1. Motor cooling fan is contacting the fan cover. 2. Baring faulty. 3. Dive belt faulty or loose. 1. Loose drive belt.
lubricate. Ensure that you clean the whole guide plate by moving the saw arbor fully up and fully down, cleaning the exposed part of the guide plate. 4. If damaged or worn, replace. 1. Change the blade. 2. Change the blade. 3. Change the blade. 1. Adjust motor cooling fan. 2. Replace bearing. 3. Replace or tighten the drive belt. 1. Re-tension the belt.
2. Dull blade.
Blade or cutter overheats.
2. Replace the blade or have it re-sharpened. 3. Feeding the wood too 3. Slow down the feed fast. rate. 4. Insufficient set on the 4. Change the blade for teeth (wood nipping the a blade with the correct blade). set. 5. Oil or dirt on the 5. Clean or replace the drive belt. drive belts. 6. Fence not aligned 6. Align fence. correctly. 1. Dull blade or cutter. 1. Change the blade/cutter or resharpen. 2. Pitch is too small for 2. Change to a
the depth of cut.
3. Wood too hard for the selected blade/cutter. 1. Machine not level on the floor.
blade/cutter with the correct pitch. 3. Change the blade/cutter.
1. Re-level the machine, ensuring that it has no movement. 2. Damaged drive belt. 2. Replace belts. Causes of the saw blade 1. Wrong blade for the 1. Change the dulling. job. blade/cutter. 2. Overfeeding the job. 2. Reduce the feed rate. 3. Cutting painted wood 3.Change blade or or abrasive material. cutter. Poor dust collection. 1. Check the capacity of 1. Upgrade dust the dust collection collection. system. You need a minimum of 1,000 cubic feet per minute at the machine. The stronger the dust collection the better. 2. Check that the dust 2. Remove blockage. hose is not blocked. 3. Check that the dust 3. Empty dust collector. collector is not full.
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