Publication Research by Kyle J McAuley (Heriot Watt Fashion Communications)

T H E E X P L O R A T I O N O F G E N D E R T H R O U G H T H E A R T O F D R A G B Y

K Y L E J M C A U L E Y

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Shoot 1 Breakdown

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Shoot 6 Breakdown Summary...

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Abo ut t he

The portfolio will be showcasing the plan for the photoshoot concepts for my future publication. This will help create a guide and a breakdown on how I successfully plan on achieving these ideas. Through the use of story, styling, inspired photography styles and mash-ups I have displayed the mindful process behind these creations. There will be six conceptial shoots to be explored and elaborate on the unique aspect of gender variation in the drag community. This theme will be explored in every aspect of the publication and is sought to creatively inspire with the unique layout and styling choices.

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Shoot 1

The idea behind shoot one will centre on exploring and showing the development process behind my drag persona “Latex”. I would like to expose the key focal points to the transofrmation into my drag character and be “exposed” in a sense to show the trials and tribulations of the makeup and hair transformation. This shoot will be a series of shots collaged together to show a detailed storyling of the makeup process. This will give some light to the true nature behind the gender transformation from man to woman.

My drag will be showcased through a grunge/vintage inspired shots which remains very true to the drag style I like to convey. I want to specifically focus on this style of shoot as I want to centre this storyline on the journey behind transformation with a cis male drag queen. Doing so will allow the audience a real insight behind the lashes, hair and makeup.

The shoot will be inspired by Magnus Hastings style of photograhpy, he focuses on shooting Drag Artists and Queer culture. He has done several shoots showing the process behind the Drag transformation and is an exceptional photographer. His style is very simplistic with a nice clean background and really tries to highlight the models in the shoot.

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I will be taking style/makeup/hair inspirations from previous looks that I have done personally that are very reminisant of modern day glam makeup with that exaggerated drag edge. The fashion styling will be uneccessary as I will most likely have the shoot from a potrait perspective. The makeup will be kept minimalistic and neutral nude tones of eyeshadow/lip colour (signature style). The hair will be my go to colour (Blonde), with it either in a certain style (high pony) or wavy/curly blonde. The style will be dependant on the makeup look completed.

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I have also taken into considertation the potential chance of having to create a PLAN B with the COVID-19 situation we are unaware of what lies ahead and it should be considered alternative shoot ideas in case I cannot do my original plan. For this shoot, I would be able to do this at home myself. As I will be the model, I would be able to set up white sheets and stand infront of my camera whilst it is on its stand and take the shots via timer. This method will be achievable and I will be able to create the same atmosphere with what I had intended to do.

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The location of the shoot will be in a studio environment, showing potrait shots of a white background and the model placed centre of the camera. This location will be beneficial in creating the minimalistic feel of the shoot.

Hair Styles

Location

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Shoot 1 MashUp

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Shoot 2

This shoot will focus on COVID-19 and the impact it has had towards the drag community. The shoot will showcase a divide between the performer and audience due to the governments ever changing restrictions. I think it is extremly important to show the damaging impact coronavirus has had to the queer entertainment community and express this in a contempory yet visually impacting way. The shoot will be shot in a darkened setting, possibly a black backdrop to keep the focal point on the models. I would have two models for this shoot, one drag performer and one audience member.

There will be a plastic wall between the two with both models on each end of the wall.

The shot will be in a landscape mode from the torso up. The drag artist will be looking towards the auidence member through the clear screen and show frustration, they will be trying to get their attention which expresses their dying need to perform. However on the flip side the audience member will be wearing/using COVID-19 essentials (mask/sanitiser) and paying no attention to the drag performer, as if they are staring away from them. This will be a clear focus of dividing the entertainment community and making it visibly frustrating for the artist to perform.

The two models will be dressed in completely opposite attire. The drag artist will be dressed very over the top and loud, I want them visually to attack the onlooker to emphasise their obnoxious need for attention with the other model. This could feauture costume outfits that are exagerrated, very old school dramatic drag makeup and possibly a bright coloured wig. The other model will be dressed very plainly and casual as any audience member usually would at a drag show, and they will be wearing COVID-19 neccessities like a mask also.

The shoot will be shot in a stuido environment with a black backdrop. This will help explore the dark contrast I want the models to have as well as keep them the focal point and not to distract from the main purpose of the shoot.

If worse comes to worse I have ensured a backup plan to this shoot. I will do a socially distanced shoot in Glasgow nearer night time in a few darkened alleys with the same sort of set up. This time I will have the Drag artists in the background of the image and the other model will be standing in front almost trying to block frame from the drag performer having any attention of sorts, mimicing their reality from having a social block from public perception.

Model 1 Style Inspirations

The shoot will be inspired by Josh Cadogan. His work is a very grungey and showcases queer nightlife. The dark demeaner he presents in his work is the exact style I want to showcase with this photoshoot. I think Cadogans work will be very influencial and even could help inspire some of the drag artists styling choices.

Location

Model 2 Style Inspirations

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Shoot 2 MashUp

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Shoot 3

This shoot is going to centre on the theme of digital drag. I would like to shoot a drag artist with a glamourous top half of an outfit and below a pair of joggers or loungewear. As most performers when they do digital drag will dress down their bottom half and save themselves from tucking or any other methods of illusion. This shoot will be shot in a contemporary style to showcase a fashion perspective or mashing the two styles together. This will create a camp feel with the shoot and have it almost seen as a joke when it is actually the reality for these performers during this time.

The model will be styled in a comedic way witht the contrast between garments. I aim to create a modern style with this merge of clothing and have modern streetwear elements to it. I think this shoot could be extremly fun and really play with the limitations of gender by two variations merged into one. The models hair and makeup will be kept minimal, I would like the model to be expressive as they can with their art and do their signature style of makeup and merged with the bottom half should create an editorial but powerful image.

I have taken inspiration from Terry Richardson for this shoot. Richardson has shot many celebrities over the years and has a very distinguishable style. His comedic yet high fashion shoots always show a silly nature behind these celebrities and I would like to create the same energy for this shoot. By having it seem lighthearted and fun this will bring a sense of comedy and campiness into the room. I think Richardsons clean shots that centre strictly on the model will make for a fantastic image, especially when incorporated into the idea for this shoot.

The shoot will be shot in a studio with a white background and have filming set pieces (Prop Camera, lights etc) in the shot so it seemed they are filming of sorts. And the image will be taken behind this to involve all elements into the shoot.

If I am unable to achieve this shoot I will have to reconsider the shoot idea. And I would most likely d o a conceptual d igital skype shoot r o attain t hat d igital aspect and l ack of physical communication. The shoot could also be campy and take a more comedic route to show off the loungewear aspect.. The shoot will hopefully be carried as ahead and if not the digital shoot will be a new experience to dabble into.

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Shoot 4

This concept will centre around other communities in the drag scene that are not as supported as being a cis gay male drag queen. There are so many sterotypes and stigmas behind what being a drag queen is. The lack of diversity that is not given as big a platform as others is appauling and an important issue which needs to be addressed. I plan on shooting a biological female drag artist and a Trans drag artist to showcase there are no limitations when it comes to gender and its affect in the drag scene. The shoot will centre on the two models both dressed in their personal styles of drag with their own makeup, hair /clothing. I would like to have them do a variety of modelesque poses and show discouraging facial expressions to the camera to potray their emotions towards them not being given better platforms. This shoot will be very handson and kept minimal with full focal point being on the models.

For this shoot I am inspired by Annie Leibovitz. Leibovitz showcases an amazing photography skill with her serious imagery. Her professionalism is very inspiring and she has shot many people, from Angelina Jolie to the Queen of England. Her work has noticeable been done at a variety of locations including fields. She captures such a serious nature with her imagery and this is something I would like to create to emphasise the lack of oppourtunities for those in the drag scene that deserve it.

The models will be dressed in their attire. I do not have any specific styling techniques for them in terms of outfits as I want this shoot to be completely expressive and allow the artists full control of themselves. I will however be showing them the variety of poses which could be used to inspire potential shots and create the image I intend on making.

If I am unable to shoot this idea with the coronavirus being around I would still attempt to do a socially distanced shoot in the same location but have the models standing 2ft apart.

This could even be interpreted as a divide among them and the space needed to feel one with themself. This shoot could be seen as difficult with the likelyhood the models cannot do the poses I wished but hopefully I will be able to compromise and come up with a solution if this is the case.

Poses

The shoot will be shot in a field, potentially the ones near my home which are very large land and scenic. I wanted to shoot them here so I can focus on their emotions and the distant feeling that comes with being excluded from everything you can offer to the community. This can be seen as a very minimal style was a nice background to tie in. The models will be centre of these shots and focused on with the camera to provide a slight blurred effect with the background.

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Annie Leibovitz

Location

Shoot 5

For this shoot I would like to centre it around showcasing the process with Drag Kings. Drag Kings are a vital part int he artform of drag and are not really exposed to mainstream culture as much as drag queens. The concept behind the shoot will be playing on femninity using masculinity. I would have the model wearing all Pink and dressed almost like a balerina, whilst they have a fully beard application on and are seeming very manly, as well as striking very manly poses and facial expressions which could really potray an excellent shot and start the discussion behind there not being a line of femininity when it comes to Drag. I want to emphasise the point there are no rules to drag, and people can express themselves in whichever way they would like to.

This shoot will be inspired by the photography skills of Peyton Fulford. Fulford has a very clear aesthetic with his work and visually creates very simplistic yet strong pieces. He focuses on shooting mainly queer people and showing a softer light to them with his use of stylin, setting and poses. He is the perfect example to inspire this shoot as I will hopefully be able to create the same atmosphere with my imagery.

The model will be in their regular attire, I would like them to be dressed in all pink with a glittery style jacket and a tutu with heels on (all one colour outfit). Contrasted to their manly makeup and facial hair application, this will be a very bold image and having them flexing and doing athletic poses will be a huge camp statement for the femninity behind Drag Kings which will hopefully help break the guidelines of the stereotypical gender roles we hear when we listen to drag king or drag queen.

The shoot will be shot in a gym if we are able to access one and mainstain strict distancing procedure. I think having the shoot take place in a gym will be another really contrasting method to help play off of the masculinity and femininity aspect of the shoot. It will definately be a bold statment and using some of the equipment as well could be really interesting to use for some so the shots.

If I am not able to partake in this shoot due to coronavirus I will be shooting the imagery socially distanced outside, most likely in an open space (field or forest). Just to create a soft ambiance and it was an alternative method I had which links back to my inspired photographers shooting method. This will hopefully not be the situation I need to follow through with but it is an alternative plan with the given guidlelines.

Location Peyton Fulford

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Shoot 6

For the final shoot I would like to incorporate as much diveristy as possible into this image to showcase the many different talents and artforms that are included in the drag community. I wish to have a model of each known “type� of drag and have them standing in a line against a brick wall. I want them to be smoking and chatting still keeping in their formation. This will create a powerful image of diversity and the variation of gender exploration in the community. I want it to almost look grunge and as if the performers are just having a smoke break from a show. This shoot will be a great display of the talents in the drag community as well as bring awareness to equality and show that they are all equal.

I will be inspired by photographer Josh Cadogan again as his style would make for a fantastic imagery here, and I wish to incorporate that raw element of photography into these shots. This will be shot very editorial and have an interesting style to it making it very unique and powerful imagery.

The drag performers are all going to be styled by myself and wearing custom outfits that were used in an editorial shoot I done in Drag. The outfits are all very exaggerated and showcase very interesting and innovatitive design techniques. They will create such powerful imagery and all of the models will look very cohesive standing together.

The shoot will be located in the street behind some of Glasgows known Queer clubs. They have a very abandoned part behind the clubs and it would look amazing to have the performers shot against the shutters / brick graffiti walls. This would also be very authentic to what queer nightlife is like and the atmosphere would be really amazing to have for the shoot if it was done during a club night or drag event.

With the situation of COVID-19, if I am unable to shoot the inital idea, I was considering doing the same sort of idea but socially distanced and I will have to cut off some of the models to maintain the social bubble rule. The shoot could be done in a very interesting manner even only with two models, but it would be preffered if I can follow the correct plan and do my intial idea. But this will all be depending on the goverments decisions with COVID-19.

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Photography Inspiration

Josh Cadogan

Summary

The shoot plans as provided will showcase a diverse array of gender exploration through the art of drag as well as touch on cultural issues we find in the drag community. By exploring with style, location and using inspired photographers I am certain I will create distinguishable imagery that will be reflected to a high standard in my end of year publication. I look forward to exploring more on the subject and questioning peoples minds when it somes to the art of drag.