Kunzum Travel Mag - September 2012

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About Shekhawati

Shekhawati is a region comprising many towns and villages, and it is not always easy to keep track of all their names and respective attractions.

The best way to navigate around is to stay at just one or two towns of your liking, and drive around during the day to other places. Shekhawati roughly spans the three districts of Churu, Jhunjhunu and Sikar.

Rao Shekha, belonging to the Kachhwaha clan of Rajputs, conquered a considerable territory in the 15th century that came to be called Shekhawati; his heirs were known as Shekhawats. Shekhawati lay entirely east of the Aravalli ridge, but the rulers extended their holdings both north and west in the 18th century. It was subsequently absorbed into the Jaipur state.

Marwari Riches

If you see the dry arid landscape of Shekhawati, and commerce limited to small time trading and subsistence agriculture, the once-opulent havelis or mansions seem out of place. They were all built by Marwaris, a rich business community, with roots in this region, who made their wealth in Calcutta (now Kolkata) and Mumbai (formerly Bombay) initially, spreading their footprint in the rest of the country and internationally over time. This small region has given some of the most illustrious of business families in India known by famous surnames like Birla, Goenka, Ruia, Poddar, Bajaj, Dalmia, Kedia, Khaitan and Jhunjhunuwala. Those who did well came back to build havelis, baolis (stepwells), chhatris (cenotaphs), temples, dharamsalas (rest houses) and even educational institutions and hospitals. These were funded both out of a sense of public service and to show their stature amongst their community. Many of them continue to own these ancestral properties, most not caring if these go to seed and thus destroying irreplaceable artistic heritage.

â—„ An image of Hindu God Shani, son of the Sun God Surya and his wife Chhaya. Shani plays an important role in astrological charts, and Saturday is called Shanivaar in Hindi. The temple in Ramgarh dedicated to Shani was built in 1840 by Gurudayal Gangabaksh Khemka but the murals may belong to a later date.

▲ A statue of Hindu God Shiva in the Ganga temple in Ramgarh built by Ramchandra Shivdutt Poddar in 1845. It is a rare case of Shiva being depicted like this; He is usually shown in the form of a Shivalinga, a cylindrical pillar with a rounded top. The temple is well decorated with frescos on both its outer and inside walls.

▲ Metal plates looking like glass in the Shani temple in Ramgarh; notice the buildings reflected in the same.

Shekhawati’s ruling class, the Thakurs, came into wealth by charging levies on trading caravans; in return, they offered protection to businessmen from brigands. The route through Shekhawati was well suited to traders plying between the ports of the western Indian state of Gujarat and Delhi. Some of the important trading items included rice, cotton, wheat, sugar, opium, wool and textiles including Kashmiri shawls. On asmaller scale, business was conducted in silk, hemp, coffee, tin, camphor, spices and elephants’ teeth besides others. Revenues from this source came in easy, especially in the 18th and the early 19th centuries, as Shekhawati sensibly charged lower levies compared to the competing neighbouring states of Jaipur and Bikaner. But this easy source of revenue was mostly lost when Jaipur was persuaded by the British to lower their levies.

â—„ The full name of this over 200 years old temple and haveli in Nawalgarh is Jagatnath Dwarka Dhisji Mandir Gher ka Mandir (Mandir means temple). By this time, architecture had evolved to include cenotaphs or chhatris and arches.

The Painted Havelis Shekhawati’s golden period for new and opulent buildings started in the 1830s and continued well into the following century as the rich business community invested in both public and private projects in their homeland. While the ruling Rajput class focused on building fortifications and palaces to protect their kingdoms, the bania business community splurged on lavish havelis and temples - the investment in the latter by the seths or businessmen was primarily to leave behind something in their names. ▲ A well in Ramgarh. Water being a scarce commodity in the desert state of Rajasthan, wells in Shekhawati tended to be elaborate structures on platforms with two or four pillars around the well-head, sometimes with pyramidical or domed chhatris (literally means umbrellas) at the corners. All these were usually painted but this was lost due to exposure to the elements.

â—„ Imagery on a wall inside one of the rooms in a haveli in Mandawa.

Over time, architecture moved from a defensive mindset to the palatial, with a focus on appearance. Between the 1830s and the 1920s, carved wooden elements became fashionable before going out of favour. These included wooden ceilings with polished plaques of metal giving the impression of glasswork, and ornate windows and doorways. Sadly, many of these have been ripped apart by those looking for a quick buck in the antiques market. The havelis began to boast artistic figurative work on its external walls, giving the region a look of an open-air art museum. Before this, such painting was limited mostly to the inner rooms. These frescos and murals were painted by skilled artists from Jaipur or by the masons themselves who learned the art without any formal training. The themes depicted popular stories and events and developments of the day.

Despite the neglect, it is these investments that have fueled a tourism boom in the region. You can see a few and feel you have had enough. Or you can go on for days, or even weeks, going through the maze of streets and back lanes of the towns of Shekhawati observing and studying the painted havelis of Shekhawati before they disappear altogether.

â—„ Frescos depicting a train in Ramgarh.

Restoring the art of old

The Indian law has provisions to protect monuments, there are none for civil architecture resulting in the decline of havelis of Shekhawati. Only a handful are being preserved and restored by their respective owners or any trusts who may have taken over the management of these old buildings. Some of those in good shape are the ones converted into eateries, museums and hotels - like the Haveli Nadine Prince in Fatehpur bought and restored by French artist Nadine Le Prince.

It serves as a gallery, museum and an exchange centre and residency for art students.

â–˛ The walls are crumbling in this building in Ramgarh but a part of the frescos have not yet lost their colour.

â—„ A wall painting depicting Hindu God Krishna playing the festival of colour, Holi, inside the Shani temple in tt. Many buildings have a series of artworks depicting a story from history or from epics like the Mahabharata and Ramayana.

A haveli built in 1900 by Seth Jairam Das Morarka in Nawalgarh has been carefully repaired and restored to much of its original state under the careful supervision of Dr. Basandani Hotchand. The building’s walls and ceilings were largely damaged, full of cracks and holes. The walls had been turning black, and woodwork being eaten away by termites. It was painstaking and expensive work taking years; the process also involved training workers in the art of fresco painting where artists apply vegetable dyes over wet plaster. This technique enables artworks to last hundreds of years if taken care of.

By some estimates, only 10 percent of the original havelis are expected to be restored; others are slowly crumbling away.

▲ A chakki on display in the museum at Morarka haveli in Nawalgarh.

Traditionally, Indian households would have these hand operated stone mills to grind wheat into flour. ▲ Inside the restored Morarka haveli in Nawalgarh

A time to shop for antiques, and more

Here is a little kept secret of Shekhawati: the havelis are a storehouse of stuff, some of it as old as the buildings themselves. These include furniture, garments, decorations, lanterns, family photos, picture frames, candle stands and more.

You have to ask around to get a peek in; don’t be fooled by new stuff rubbed and polished to look like old. Negotiate right, and you could pick up bargains.

They may not really fetch much in the antiques market, but they sure can add to the interiors of your home. Hurry, offer open till depleting stocks last!

▲ Wooden birds carved atop a doorway in Morarka haveli.

Of course, with deeper pockets, you can buy the house itself. Yes, some are for sale; many are lying locked as ownership has got divided amongst many family members over generations and they cannot all agree on what to do with their assets.

While you are there, walk around the bazaars of Shekhawati. You may not end up shopping for much, except some cheap handicrafts and colourful glass bangles, but you sure get insights into the region’s people. At anytime, these markets are full of locals shopping for clothes, fruits, vegetables, groceries and other household goods. Don’t be surprised to see most Hindu women walking in public with their faces half covered with their bright sarees, even as their young daughters in tow wear jeans, T-shirts and jackets. If traders are not making a sale, they are usually poring over their accounts books. And many of their shops still retain old artistic elements, or have been painted over with bright colours including pink, yellow, blue silver and mauve. And there is food, lots of it, all being prepared fresh in street shops. Kachoris, samosas and jalebis are available hot and fresh from the wok, best drowned with a glass of chai - indulge if you have the stomach for it. ▲ Old locks being sold in a haveli in Mandawa.

◄ Beautiful Charkhas, or spinning wheels, for sale in a haveli in Mandawa. The author picked these up for his personal collection; no, he will not sell them to you.

Shops in the market will sell you clones but they are neither as aesthetic nor is the wood of the same high quality.

â—„ A kite shop in the evening hours in Mandawa. The skies in Rajasthan come alive with kites every year on Makar Sakranti celebrated on January 14.

A small trader in the bazaars of Nawalgarh â–ź

â—„ A seth or a businessman from the bania Marwari community of Shekhawati.

Open those locks

Locks of all shapes, sizes and age can be seen in Shekhawati - traders ensure their premises are well secured. When I was taking these shots in the early hours of the morning before shops opened, I managed to attract a crowd around me. Some onlookers started conspiracy theories that I could probably make keys from photos of these locks. If it was that simple, crime would pay very easily!

â—„ A buffalo doing the rounds to extract oil from mustard seeds in Mandawa. Wonder why the animal was blind-folded? The owner was not exactly chat friendly to shed some light on the matter.

â–˛ A statue of Hindu God Ganesha placed next to a wall with tree roots growing around it in Mandawa

â—„ A good way to navigate Nawalgarh is on its colourful auto-rickshaws, especially ones operated by drivers who like to dress up like their favourite movie stars.

Shekhawati - Travel Tips * About: Shekhawati is spread across the districts of Sikar, Churu and Jhunjhunu and dotted

with towns and villages. Some towns you can consider visiting are Mandawa, Ramgarh, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, Surajgarh, Bissau, Mahansar, Churu, Ajitgarh, Bagar and Jhunjhunu.

* Getting there: Shekhawati is best accessed by road from Jaipur (170 kms / 106 miles) or Delhi (275 kms / 172 miles) away. These distances are given to Mandawa, central to many attractions with good places to stay.

* Getting around: It is best to have a car to go around the towns you plan to visit. Try to get hold of maps, but still be prepared to ask for directions to towns and buildings within these.

* Accommodation: You can choose from many options across all budgets. Try to stay in an old haveli converted into a hotel.

* Best time to go: November to February. October and March can be pleasant in the mornings and evenings. It can get extremely hot in the summers.

* Recommended reading: The Painted Towns of Shekhawati by Ilay Cooper.

About Bandipur National Park Bandipur is mostly a mix of dry, deciduous and scrub forests, spread across an area of about 875 sq. kms (338 sq. miles). It is located along the foothills of the scenic Nilgiris range in the Chamarajanagar district.

The Kabini, Nugu and Moyar rivers flow through the park. The landscape is marked by water bodies, hills, temples and villages and the lush greenery.

Bandipur is also home to mammals like leopard, sloth bear, wild dog, sambar deer, spotted deer and barking deer; resident reptiles include the rat snake, Russell’s viper, common krait, Indian python, flying snake and the cobra. Amongst the over 200 species of birds to be spotted here are the heron, stork, egret, grey jungle fowl, partridge, quail, green pigeon, hornbill, lapwing and peafowl.

The safari

The safari starts even before you enter the reserve area of Bandipur.

Development of roads cutting through what was one big forested belt led to disruption of the elephant corridors.

Not ones to give up on their rights, some of these elephants wander onto the roads leading to and from Bandipur.

They can be seen ambling along the sides or even in the middle of the roads; they are commonly spotted parked in the foliage or just out for a drink or a bath in water holes in clear view of passing traffic. The road through the Muthanga range of the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary is thus closed to traffic at night to avoid accidents. Even otherwise, you are advised to drive slow lest you bump into an animal - it can be fatal to both the wildlife and you.

Once inside, animals and birds are to be seen in an almost continuous parade. Monkeys, different types of deer, exotic birds - they are all there. And many more elephants. Solo, in small groups and big herds. All going about their usual business of doing little more than ambling and eating with no greater ambitions than having a good time.

On the way back, driving through the dark, I had been told to watch out for elephants on the highway. And I did see some small groups. The most fascinating was one caught in my headlights.

I stopped and watched as she got closer, crossed the front of my car and then pressed her forehead against the front passenger seat - curious what this ‘thing’ was. I am told elephants have poor night vision. She stayed like that for a bit, and went on her way again.

Awesome meeting! Wonder if a more aggressive specimen would have behaved differently? Unlikely.

Even as we were driving around looking for tigers, we got an alert from another jeep about a tigress and her cubs - and our driver sped like mad. Hurtling away in the uncomfortable Mahindra & Mahindra jeep on an uneven dirt track, we had to hold on to the seats and balance our cameras lest we break something. Wonder how many rules the driver broke; he could easily have killed some passing wildlife!

Despite the reckless driving, we reached only after the cats had slinked back into the growth; we waited an hour before heading back in the dark, sighing at the missed opportunity.

Elephants in a waterhole on the road connecting Bandipur and Wayanad in Kerala. Forest guards are on the alert to shoo away those who stop here, lest they disturb the animals â–ź

â–˛ Looking for a gift elephant in the mouth at the Bandipur National Park, Karnataka?

â—„ On the way, I came upon an aesthetically designed Sitadevi temple a pond wascreated when Sita (wife of Hindu God Rama) is said to have wept there.

The problem with safaris in Bandipur

If you want to go in a jeep safari in Bandipur, you need to stay at either the Bandipur Safari Lodge, a property of state owned Jungle Lodges and Resorts, or Tusker Trails. If you are not staying with them, you might not be allowed to just pay and go for a safari. With limited accommodation, you cannot always get a room in these two properties. All others have to take the 25-seater van for a one hour ride obviously of little value to the wildlife enthusiast. On the positive side, tourist movement in reserves in Karnataka is limited unlike many others teeming with visitors.

Bandipur: Travel Tips * Getting there: Bandipur is about 220 kms (138 miles) from Bangalore, a major railhead and airport, and about 90 kms (56 miles) from Mysore. Roads leading to Bandipur are generally good.

* Accommodation: While there are a handful of places to stay at different budget points, you may want to stay at Bandipur

Safari Lodge or Tusker Trails if you want to take jeep safaris. * Best time to go: September to January. The park may close between February and April anytime if there is a risk of forest fires.

Delhi Care for a Bout of Mud Wrestling?

This sport gives a new meaning to getting your hands dirty. And it is a tradition that goes back to the time of the Mahabharata, the legendary story of Pandavas, Kauravas and Lord Krishna.

Welcome to the world of kushti or Indian style mud wrestling, played as a sport and used to settle disputes. Wrestlers jostle in a mud pit, wearing nothing but loin cloths around their waists.

But it is not usually freestyle – many of the rules are similar to what you see in the Olympics, sans the synthetic mats. This is raw stuff man!

The town has akharas all over, arenas where wrestlers train and often live too. Everyone here has to follow a certain discipline: these include rules about what they can eat and what they may do in their spare time. Drinking, smoking and even sex are often off-limits; young wrestlers have to lead lives of brahamacharis, or bachelors.

The focus is developing one’s soul and body and honing skills. A typical diet includes chapattis (freshly cooked flat bread), milk, almonds, ghee (purest form of oil extracted from milk fat) and eggs.

Even though the sport is on the decline, there is still a thriving wrestling circuit, a league of sorts.

Akharas host matches by rotation with prize money. How does it work? We attended one in Ghitroni village on the Mehrauli – Gurgaon Road, which serves as a template for others too.

The hosts announce a total prize purse. The money does not come from any corporate sponsors but put together by the host committee – usually comprising rich landlords, farmers and politicians.

And anyone may sign up to compete. Everyone gets one bout only – and the winner is given a spot cash prize. How do you decide your opponent? All wrestlers size each other up, and mutually pick someone their size. Proceedings start with young boys, the prize being as low as Rs. 21.

With increasing size, and as the decibels get louder, the prize can go up to as much as Rs. 21,000 or even Rs. 51,000 for the final match.

Referees are at hand to ensure fair play. Their job is also to ensure the crowd gets their entertainment. If two wrestlers are in a stalemate or moving in slow motion, they are egged on by the official – with promises of even higher prize money if they rev up the proceedings.

They can be evicted if their act continues to be listless. In case of a tie, half the money is retained by the organizers, and the balance split between the two wrestlers.

There are many other formats for these bouts – check these out for yourself.

And there is nothing stopping you from signing up for the jostling.

Check out

http://kushtiwrestling.blogspot.com/ it’s an interesting news resource for kushti.

Delhi Toilet Museum The Art of Curating Toilets

Like everything else, even toilets have a history. They also have associated stories, anecdotes and rituals passed down over ages. Head to the Toilet Museum if you want a peek into some of these.

The museum was set up with the aim of providing information to researchers, designers, policy makers, manufacturers, sanitation experts and students. On display are texts and photographs about the history of sanitation and exemplary toilets from across the world.

Exhibits include a portable French toilet that looks like a bookcase - and these have been vindictively named after English writers and their works.

You will also see replicas of a beautifully decorated porcelain urinal from Vienna and of a commode in the shape of a throne used by French King Louis XIII – he ate in private but eased himself while holding court! Modern ones include those used by NASA in gravity-free space and portable eco-friendly ones used by trekkers away from civilization.

All of this has been put together by Sulabh International, a non-profit organization focused on providing safe and hygienic human waste disposal systems to 700 million Indians who go outside for open defecation. You could spend hours in this small museum reading the texts on display - and be surprised at how societal habits and attitudes changed with evolving technologies.

A request: Please give our regards to ‘Pee’ and ‘Poo,’ two cuddly toys who live in the museum.

ARYAN CODE OF TOILETS - FOR MARRIED COUPLES The Aryan scripture, Manusmriti Vishnupuran, has laid down rules and etiquettes for various people responding to the call of nature. Here is an example for married people on the drill for defecation: Before going for defecation one was to chant the following mantra from Narad Puran: “Gachhantu Rishio Deva Pishacha ye cha grihya ka Pitrbhutagana surve Karishye Malamochanam” A sacred thread was required to be rolled and put in the right ear, and the head to be covered with a cloth.

And then, silently, one could proceed facing north in the day and south in the night. While defecating one was not to touch water. After the deed was done, the water pot was to be held in the right hand, with the left hand used for cleaning.

There are more such codes, go check the one applicable to you. Don’t forget your lines and order of things, lest you cause a mess!

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THE HISTORY OF THE TOILET

2500 B.C.: In Mohenjodaro (Indus Valley Civilization), a highly developed drainage system existed where waste water from each house flowed into the main drain 1000 B.C.: Flush type toilet discovered in Bahrain island in the Persian Gulf 69 A.D.: Vespasianus (Otto Empire) imposed a tax on toilets for the first time 1214 A.D.:Construction of public toilets manned by scavengers in Europe 1596 A.D.: JD Harrington invents W.C. 1668 A.D.: Police Commissioner of Paris issues an edict making it mandatory for all houses to construct toilets 1728 A.D.: Architect J.F. Brondel argues that attached toilet is ideal 1739 A.D.: Separate toilets for men and women appear for the first time at a ball in Paris 1824 A.D.: First public toilet in Paris 1859 A.D.: Toilet of Queen Victoria is decorated with gold 1883 A.D.: First ceramic toilet by Thomas Turiferd for Queen Victoria 1889 A.D.: Sewage treatment for the first time in the world 1959 A.D.: All surface toilets abandoned in Paris

In Middle Ages, people used to throw excreta from their houses on the roads below. It was banned when plagues hit urban settlements.

GUIDE: Sulabh Bhawan, Mahavir Enclave, Palam Dabri Marg, New Delhi 110045; Tel: +91.11.25031518-19, 25032617, 25032654; Web: sulabhtoiletmuseum.org; Sundays closed

Wat Chaiwattanaram Wat Chaiwattanaram is one of the most imposing Buddhist monasteries in Ayutthaya, commissioned by King Prasat Thong in 1630, and located along the Chao Phraya river. The architecture bears similarities to the Angkor Wat, and these structures may have been built to commemorate victories over Cambodia (Khmer). ‘Wat’ stands for a Buddhist monastery and temple complex in Thailand.

The complex consists of a 35 metre high main stupa or ‘prang’ (Khmer style tower) and four smaller ‘prangs,’ all built on the same base. These are surrounded by eight lesser ‘prangs’ and a gallery. Wat Chaiwattanaram was a royal monastery, and used by the rulers to perform religious ceremonies. It was even used as a cremation site for members of the royal family.

When Ayutthaya was besieged by Burmese invaders, the Wat was converted into an army camp. It was abandoned after the fall of Ayutthaya, just like the other structures in the city. Looting, decapitation of Buddha images and selling of bricks from the Wat became a common practice till the Government moved in to restore and preserve the same.

◄▲ Wat Chaiwattanaram, one of the most imposing Buddhist monasteries in Ayutthaya

Wat Lokayasutharam The main attraction at the Wat Lokayasutharam in Ayutthaya is the image of a reclining Buddha. Called Phra Buddhasaiyart, it is made of bricks and cement in the art style of the middle Ayutthaya period. It is imposing at 37 metres long and 8 metres high. The head rests on a lotus, and the legs overlap squarely to show equalized toes. It is surrounded by the remains of 24 cathedral posts, 3 cathedrals, a stupa, a Buddhist temple hall, a pagoda and a bell tower.

â–źâ–ş Wat Lokayasutharam, known for the 35 metre long image of a reclining Buddha

This monastery is aligned on the east-west axis, with the Buddha facing the east. Restoration of the same took place in 1954. It is located near the Wat Worachettharam.

At any given time, you can expect to see devotees offering their prayers to the Buddha. With few people to be seen here, the atmosphere is quiet and peaceful allowing one to spend hours under a tree. Do drop in here when in Ayutthaya.

Wat Maha That This is an image you may have seen often: the head of a sandstone Buddha image lying amidst the roots and lower trunk of a Bodhi tree in the Wat Maha That complex. There are no signs of the rest of the body; the head has unofficially become the icon for Ayutthaya.

Construction for the Wat Maha That started in 1374 during the reign of King Borommarachathirat I but completed only under King Ramesuan who ruled from 1388 - 1395. A few decades later, the main ‘prang’ (Khmer style tower) collapsed while King Songtham was in power from 1610 - 1628. It is believed to have been restored sometime between 1630 - 1655 when King Prastthong took over; the height of the ‘prang’ was also significantly increased at that time.

This Wat served as the seat of the Sangaraja, the head of the monks of the Kamavasi sect; this status was established by Mahathera Thammakanlayan who was a contemporary of King Borommarachathirat I. It thus served as a royal monastery too, and was regarded as the most sacred in Ayutthaya for a long time.

The main ‘prang’ collapsed again around 1911 during the reign of King Rama VI, and looters saw this as an opportunity to dig for treasure. It was not until 1956 that the Fine Arts Department of the Government carried out its own excavations to find relics of the Buddha. Discoveries included many antiquities including Buddha images, votive tablets, covered boxes in the shape of fish and golden plaques in the form of animals. These objects are now on display at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.

Back to the Buddha’s head: there is no clear evidence how it came to rest in its present position. But it is assumed the temple complex was set on fire by the invading Burmese in 1767 and many of the structures collapsed and images broke. With the area deserted for over a century, a Bodhi tree may have grown around the head lying on the ground.

Wat Maha That was one of the most sacred of Buddhist temples in Ayutthaya for a long time; it is famous for the head of a Buddha image resting amidst the roots of a Bodhi tree

The head of a sandstone Buddha image resting amidst the roots of a Bodhi tree at Wat Maha That

Wat Yai Chaimongkol The Wat Yai Chaimongkol stands out as soon as you enter Ayutthaya - its imposing Chedi (stupa) can be seen from far.

King U-Thong constructed this monastery in 1357 for monks who had returned from Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) after studying under Phra Vanarat Maha Thera. These monks belonged to the Pa Kaeo sect (also spelt Pakaew); the original name of the monastery was thus Wat Pa Kaeo (or Pakaew). Over time, this sect attracted a large number of followers and became prosperous as a result.

The king conferred the title of Somdej Ohra Vanarat on the head of the sect, and appointed him the Patriarch on the Right Hand Side. This placed the head of the sect at par with Somdej Phra Buddha-kosacharn, who headed a sect engaged mostly in the study of the Scriptures, and was known as the Patriarch on the Left Hand Side. Since this monastery was home to the patriarch, it was also named Wat Chao Phya-thai which means the The Temple of the Supreme Patriarch.

In 1592, the Burmese Army attempted to subjugate Ayutthaya, but was defeated by King Naresuen who led from the front. The king, atop an elephant back, combated directly with the Burmese leader and emerged victorious in the district of Nong Sarai in the province of Suphanburi. The Thai army could have inflicted greater losses on their enemies but some of their regiments did not arrive in time to reinforce their efforts. The king wanted to execute the commanders of these regiments, but was persuaded by Patriarch Vanarat to instead focus on building Chedis (stupas) to commemorate the great victory. One was built on the site of his battle at Nong Sarai, and a bigger one called Phra Chedi Chaimongkol, or the Chedi of the Auspicious Victory. But it was popularly referred to as the Phra Chedi Yai, or the Great Pagoda even as its official name changed to Wat Yai Chaimongkol.

The imposing Wat Yai Chaimongkol

Wat Ratchaburana The Wat Ratchaburana came up following a series of tragic events within the royal family.

When King Intharachathirat passed away in 1492, two of his sons went to battle against each other, each in a bid to ascend the throne. As fate would have it, both - Chao Aye Phraya who ruled over Suphanburi, and Chao Yi Phraya who ruled Sanburi - died on the spot. A third son of the deceased king came down from Phitsanulok and was appointed king. He proceeded to organize a funeral for his father and brothers, and commissioned the building of the Wat Ratchaburana on the funeral site. Two Chedis (stupas) were also built at the approach to the Pa-Than bridge in Ayutthaya, the site of battlefield, to store the ashes of the two brothers.

In September of 1957, looters dug into a two level crypt inside the main ‘prang’ (Khmer style tower), and made off with a booty of valuable stuff. Some of them were arrested, and this prompted the Fine Arts Department to carry out excavations at the site. The walls of the crypt were seen to be adorned with beautiful mural paintings.

Amongst the discoveries were many images of the Buddha, gold artifacts and votive tablets made of gold. Some of these can now be seen display at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.

Night images from Wat Ratchaburana

Travel Tips * Spend at least two days here - even if your travel advisor suggests only a day trip from Bangkok. But you can also go for one day excursion to the main sites if short of time. * There are many more sites in Ayutthaya - only a few are covered here.

Go discover. * There are hotels for all budgets. * Do ensure you visit the sites early morning and towards evening as the monuments look beautiful in the rising and setting sun. * You can take a car, taxi, bus, train or a boat from Bangkok to get to Ayutthaya. * Local transport is not a problem - but best if you hire a car for the day to get around.

Book Review

The Greatest Travel Novel Ever? Probably!

NIMISH DUBEY It’s a book that is considered a literary classic, has sold millions of copies, inspired film directors to convert it to celluloid and even has an animation series named after it. And yet, for most people, it does not really figure among great travel novels, simply perhaps because they had far too good a time reading it to notice that travel was the central theme of the book. We are talking of Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days, a book that is admired more in literary circles than in travel ones.

And yet, there is no doubt that the book pretty much redefined how travel was written about when it was released in 1873. At a time when travel writing was largely associated with often ponderous journals, Verne decided to build a whole plot around a sensational journey. Englishman Phileas Fogg stakes twenty thousand pounds that he can make a trip around the world in the time of eighty days. His friends take him up on his wager, saying it is unlikely for someone to do a task as massive as this in such a short period (remember, we are talking of the steam age). Fogg sets off on his trip, accompanied by his new valet, Passepartout (a name acquired thanks to his tendencies to leave jobs at the drop of a hat). Both follow a route that takes them across all continents, barring Australia, with stop overs in countries like Egypt, India, and the United States. Complicating matters are a lady whom the duo rescue from being burnt alive (suttee) and an English detective, Fix, who is convinced that Fogg is actually a bank robber trying to throw the police off his track by pretending to take a trip around the world.

And there you have the ingredients of perhaps the greatest journey ever taken in the history of literature. Fogg, utterly unruffled, trying his best to brave the elements and other obstacles that come in his path (often by paying generous sums of cash); Fix attempting to delay so that he can get a warrant to arrest him, Passepartout just bumbling his way in and out of situations that vary from almost being burnt alive to being thrown out of an Indian temple to being a part of a troupe of gymnasts. It is a rich cast of characters and Verne’s narration contains some wonderfully deft conversations and twists in it. Perhaps the most memorable of all exchanges occurs between Fix and Passepartout when the latter discovers that his watch is no longer keeping correct time, which ends with Fix telling him to change the time on his clock otherwise “it will not agree with the sun.” To which Passepartout replies memorably, ” So much the worse for the sun, Monsieur. The sun will be wrong then.

While all readers remember the plot of the book very well as well as its unusual denouement (no, we are not telling you whether Fogg won or lost his bet – read the book, please), what is often forgotten is the wonderful narration of the journeys made by master and valet throughout the world. This is brilliant travel narration at its best, although some might bridle at the descriptions of India and other regions as being typically colonial, we would request you to keep an open mind and recall the period of the book. Rarely has travel been so entertaining, full of events, humour, tension and even the odd moment of romance.

All of which are more than enough for us to call Verne’s masterpiece the Greatest Travel Novel ever. You can download it for free from http://www. gutenberg.org/ebooks/103, although we really would recommend your buying it!