The London Review 2023

Page 1

The spring of 2023 marks the 25th anniversary of Queen Mary’s reign over the London Review. For her service, a new line is being dedicated in her honor. The line will be named the Silver Jubilee to commemorate the celebration forever. Residents will be happy to hear that this new line will pass through a total of 25 new stops. We at the London Review believe that no one deserves better. Cheers!

1
2 Table of Contents Everything’s Bigger In... London? 18 How To Find Swifties In Another Country 20 London Events Reviewed 22 Winner In Colonialism 12 Playing “Where’s My Water” In London 13 London: Often Rainy And Now Grainy? 14 The Ethical Question Of British Museums 26 Talking To Strangers 27 The Cathedral And The Abbey 28 Traveling With Your Brother 29 A Canterbury Tale 32 A Plane Ride And The Pitt Rivers 34 Pub Talk 36 Alien Accent Awareness (And How To Overcome It) 40 Everything’s Backwards In London 41 Bird Whispering, Gordon Ramsay, And Going With The Flow 42 Glossier You: A Life Remembered 46 An Ode To The Trillionaire Cupcake 47 An Afternoon In Hampstead Heath 48 My Top 5 Pints In London 8
3 Clean Cities 66 Natural Beauty In Unnatural Settings 68 When The Tubes Strike 70 The British Museum From An Anthropologist 60 British Science Museum From A Biochemist 62 Pitt Rivers Museum From An Anthropologist 62 Crosswalks, Or The Lack Thereof In London 63 The Chinese Ceramics Collection 74 The Royal Jewels 75 Conversations In London 76 Ask The London Reviewers 77 Five Ways London Is Just Better Than America 80 My Quest To Find Funny Little Guys 82 Ode To London 83 “Here Begins A Short Treatise”: A Pilgrimage To Canterbury 86 Oxford And King’s College London: Medieval Studies At British Universities 88 From Boroughs To Beaches: My Year Of Study Abroads 90 Kansas And London: A Tale Of Two Cities 94 Good As Hell: Lizzo Lights Up London’s O2 Academy 95 A Permanent Souvenir: Commemorating My UK Visit With A Tattoo 96 Two Truths And A Lie Answer Key 97 Feeling 22 100 One Of America’s Greatest Mistakes 101 Traveling With Strangers 102 An Afternoon With An Angel 52 A Greenwich Park Goodbye 54 Transport Trouble 56
4 A New Dimension Of Analysis 120 Travel Anxiety: Like Father, Like Daughter 121 Bath Time! 122 I Thought This Time It Would Be Different 112 The Book Of Mormon & Six The Musical 114 The Melting Pot Of Cultures 116 “I’ve Always Wanted To Be A Dad” ~ Talking With Mauricio 126 Why I Hate The Heathrow Airport 127 Tea With Jane 128 Brixton Built A Friendship 132 I Think I Love Football? 134 My iPhone Turned Into Their Phone 135 Don’t Look Down 138 Sustaining State Of Mind 140 Tiramisu Issue 142 A Trip To Wimbledon 146 The History Of Iranian Cafes: Dishoom And Communal Eating 147 Beauty In The Mundane: A Trip To Canterbury 148 Being A Foreigner 152 London Review Oxford Review 153 More Than Museums 154 A Conversation With A Jamaican Man 106 Biking In London 107 Left Side 108
5 Black Girls Abroad: Finding Sisterhood In London 164 A Love Letter To Brixton 166 Tube Station Roulette 168 Loving Food In A Place That Isn’t Known For Food 158 The Kids Have Accents Too?! 159 What It’s Like To Go Museuming, When You Don’t Like Museuming 160

The 25th London Review Cohort would like to give a big thank you to Queen Mary Klayder. She has run this program for 25 years, and it wouldn’t exist without her. While in London, she met up with countless alumni from previous London Review Cohorts and even introduced members of this year’s cohort to past alumni to help us network. One alumni of last year’s London Review trip said their number one advice was to sit next to Mary at meals to learn new things, have a ton of fun, and have great conversation. Cheers to 25 more.

Doug Crawford-Parker (DCP) ventured on his first transatlantic flight in 1982. He first accompanied the London review in 2013. Nevertheless, he has yet to visit the Sherlock Holmes Museum. While in Kansas, he spends his time teaching English—creative nonfiction, mostly—and going on walks with SCP and their dog Silas, a.k.a. World’s Cutest

taught her first study abroad program twenty-five years ago in Giverny, France. While in London, she likes to think critically about museums and watch students explore their interests and develop new ones.

6
Sarah Crawford-Parker (SCP) Puppy.

Mary Klayder has taught English at KU for 175 years. In her many years of teaching, she has found great joy in leading, as of now, 62 study abroad programs to London, The UK, and Costa Rica. This year marks her 25th London Review. She started to encourage more people to go abroad since the time and cost seemed feasible for more students.

When she is not traveling or roaming the halls of Wescoe, she shares her home with David Brown, two golden retrievers, and two tabby Persian cats.

When not taking care of the dogs and cats while Mary traipses around the world on study abroad, David Brown runs a law office specializing in protecting and securing LGBTQ+ rights.

NEXT STOP: MY TOP 5 PINTS IN LONDON

Mauricio Gómez Montoya currently serves as the Student Experience Designer in the University Honors Program at KU. In this role, he oversees and designs engaging and meaningful co-curricular experiences for Honors students. Mauricio is a native of Mexico City, Mexico. He is passionate about issues of social justice, men and masculinities and the intersection of sports and politics. He teaches a course titled #StickToSports: Politics & Sport, which is a critical observation of sports from the lens of various political identities such as race and gender, among others. His research is focused on exploring the experiences of cisgender men of color who engaged in academic help-seeking behaviors during their time at KU. His favorite part about London: Football culture.

7

My Top 5 Pints In London

I wholeheartedly believe one of the best ways to get to know a place is by doing what the local folks do. This includes going where they go, eating what they eat, and yes, you guessed it… drinking what they drink. During my time in London, I had a goal of visiting different pubs, chatting with locals, enjoying some local pints, and hopefully watching some English football. Mission accomplished! During the trip, I documented my thoughts on each beer using the Untappd app. The list below includes a variety of styles, breweries, and locations. All beers listed here were brewed in the London metro area and were consumed at local pubs. London offers a lot of options for zythophiles, and there were many other beers that I enjoyed but did not rank, from other English offerings to international beers from Portugal (Sagres), India (Cobra), China (Lucky Buddha), Spain (San Miguel and Madri), and the Czech Republic (Straropramen). Without further ado, here are the local London pints that cracked my top 5. Cheers!

5) Pure Ubu, Bitter Cask Ale - Purity Brewing

Location: Chequers Tavern, Oxford

Profile: Smooth, malty, and a bit flat. Cask ales are not carbonated and hail from England. This beer was consumed along with an award-winning meat pie while watching the Cheltenham horse races!

4) Brixton & friends - Lager, Brixton Brewery

Location: Turf Tavern, Oxford

Profile: Crisp, hoppy. Beer was consumed along with some tasty fish & chips. Excellent pairing! This pint was enjoyed after a morning at the Natural History Museum nerding out on dinosaurs.

3) Level Head, IPA - Greene King Brewery

Location: The Hoop & Toy Pub, Kensington

Profile: Hazy, light & floral. No food to accompany. Though, I enjoyed it while watching Arsenal FC get eliminated from the Europa League by Sporting Lisbon in penalties.

2) Frontier Pale Lager - Fuller’s Brewery

Location: The Red Lion Pub, Westminster

Profile: Smooth, hoppy & fruity. No food to accompany. This pint was enjoyed while taking shelter from the rain and the educator protests near Parliament. Nice people watching.

1) London Pride - Bitter - Fuller’s Brewery

Location: The Chelsea Pensioner, Fulham

Profile: Malty, easy drinking. A classic British ale. No food to accompany.

8

The main reason London Pride, or LP as folks at the pub referred to it, was ranked as my top pint was a bit circumstantial. Yes, it was a lovely pint. However, the primary reason why it rose to the top was the setting in which I had it. This particular pint was enjoyed at ‘The Chelsea Pensioner’. Apparently, ‘The Pensioner’ is the quintessential Chelsea FC supporter’s pub. I stopped by The Pensioner after touring Stamford Bridge, Chelsea FC’s stadium. While I am not a Chelsea FC supporter, it was awesome to have access to a supporter’s pub and experience their passion & reverence for the club firsthand.

I’m glad I was able to enjoy good pints along with some good conversation while in London, because, in the words of Brother Hyacinth Epp (1902), a Capuchin Monk in Munjor, KS, “without beer, things do not seem to go as well...”

Cheers to London!

Fun fact: Mauricio’s bag was missing/lost the *entire* trip, and didn’t show up at his house until a week after we got back. We stayed in Heathrow looking for it so long that we had to take a taxi to the hotel instead of the coach bus with everyone else.

9

Aarthi Aruna is a sophomore from Overland Park studying Behavioral Neuroscience and Anthropology with a minor in Spanish. She aspires to be an endocrinologist. She enjoys traveling, playing tennis, and spending time with family and friends. Her favorite part of London was seeing how so many cultures came together at the various markets, and the Tate Modern Museum!

NEXT STOP: WINNER IN COLONIALISM

FAVORITE EXHIBIT: JEWEL ROOM AT THE V&A

10

VOTED MOST LIKELY TO SLEEP THROUGH A THEATRE PRODUCTION

PLAYING “WHERE’S MY WATER” IN LONDON

LONDON: OFTEN RAINY AND NOW GRAINY?

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Camden Market

2. Tate Modern

3. Victoria and Albert Museum

4. Biking around London

5. Platform 9 3/4 at King Cross Station

11

Winner in Colonialism

Being the child of Indian immigrants, I’ve always had a muddled perspective of the British. On one hand, they were essential in creating the caste system that still plagues India today but at the same time, my mom has always loved Princess Diana. Not quite equal, I realize. For everything terrible caused by British colonialism, without it, the population of British Indians wouldn’t be blossoming. At the heart of the British Indian population: the best restaurant Indian food I have ever had (note: the best is my mom’s, obviously). To give you an idea of the magnitude of this statement: I come from a family that will always find Indian food no matter where we are, from North Carolina to Switzerland.

Before stepping foot in London, I had heard so much about how good Dishoom was, from London Review alumni and other friends that frequent London. Most of us remember the Wednesday of our trip as the day the tube was down. I regard it as the day we went to Dishoom, by foot. Lucky for us, there is a Dishoom in Kensington,

just fifteen minutes away from our hotel. We started the day by meandering in and around Kensington, walking everywhere of course, so we were famished when we got to Dishoom. Our waiter told us that the best way to go about lunch was to order many dishes and share, and so we did. We were a group of ten people, so we ended up splitting up by table into four and six. Grant, Jill, Sammi, and I absolutely feasted. We ordered vegetable samosas, chili cheese toast, two garlic naans, house black daal, paneer

12

tikka, dishoom house chaat, and an order of rice. Every plate was wiped clean. The classics that I always eat, like the samosas and naan, were done perfectly. The chili cheese toast and dishoom house chat, paired unlikely components to create something like never before. Green chillies and cheddar? Potatoes and pomegranates? Chocolate and chai was especially a crowd pleaser. From entering to leaving, the entire experience was perfect. When we walked into Dishoom, like stray puppies who a bit too obviously were not from the area, we were quickly helped. The decor inside combined the chaos and culture of India with the poshness of London. As we were seated, we were asked if we had been to Dishoom before. We all shook our heads no in unison. Our waiter then gave us the rundown of the restaurant, and even said he would stop us if we attempted to order too much food. Each dish came out as soon as it was ready, meaning right as we finished one dish, the next one was coming out.

It’s funny because we did try traditional British food including cheese and bean crumpets, which we were not fans of. Just a bit ironic that the food we loved the most in Britain, whether it was pho from Go Viet or the garlic naan from Dishoom, didn’t originate from Britain. Britain won first in colonialism, and consequently won first in the food (don’t be mistaken - crumpets hurt their score).

Dishoom, as the British would say, absolutely smashed it. As they would say in India, “shabash” (bravo). Although, stay on your own turf, Britain!

Playing “Where’s My Water” In London

London is expensive: there is no denying that. It’s a big city-the biggest in the entire United Kingdom. We found some affordable gems, but in general it was easy to run up the bill. The easiest way for a massive check? Ordering water. Part two to my Dishoom story is that some of the food was quite spicy. Living in America, we’re all too familiar with asking for more water and when the spices were burning our mouths, it slipped everyone’s mind that across the Atlantic, water suddenly gains a price tag.

Dishoom is by no means cheap, but to our horror, we realized we spent 24 pounds (about 30 dollars) on water when we got the bill. It simply didn’t click when we asked for more water over and over again.

I’m not sure how we figured this out, but some

sort of angel sent from the heavens told us that tap water was often free at restaurants. It was funny because at Dishoom this wasn’t an option that was given to us. We were simply asked: still or sparkling? I almost felt cheated because how would we have known about this third option? After learning about this tap water life hack, I did not hold back. I had to try not to interrupt our server when they gave us just two options.

5 votes for most likely to become a travel influencer

3 votes for most likely to forget an umbrella

2 votes for most likely to order for the whole table

2 votes for most likely to do a photo shoot in London

13

London: Often Rainy and Now Grainy?

The disposable camera, invented in 1986, was popular in the 90s and the 2000s. I remember going on a field trip with my third grade class, and I wanted to take our Canon camera. Looking back, I understand why my parents didn’t entrust an eight-year-old with one of my dad’s most prized possessions. The solution? A disposable camera, which I wasn’t having any of. I didn’t want a piece of plastic. It’s funny now because disposable cameras are popular again, and I am all for it. I love the idea of getting film developed, not being able to see your picture until then, and the grainy look of the photos you get back. They even have apps that make your photos look like disposable photos, and you get them back in 24 hours. I love this app, so here are my favorite London on disposable pictures.

This was the first disposable I took in London. Note, the first picture was of a pigeon in the airport. Five of us, including Ethan and Austin (pictured), flew through Chicago while most of our peers flew through Dallas. We got to London about four hours before the group flight, so we truly moved into this Heathrow Costa Coffee. We ate there, did homework there, and oh - even slept there too. The delirium of being seven hours ahead made those four hours seem like days.

The absolute love I have for Camden Market is so difficult to put into words, but this picture helps me to do so. The beautiful thing about Camden Market is every type of food is located within this quarter acre space, from bubble waffles to loaded fries. It also has these convenient UFO-looking seating areas that are heated to survive the London cold.

Selena, Ladazhia, Sammi, and Grant’s smiles say it all. :)

Although all of us avoided going on the London Eye like it was the plague, this picture of the London Eye from the Millennium Bridge makes me want to fall into this tourist trap, over and over again.

14

I think the grass is greener in Oxford - genuinely. I had never seen flowers this breathtaking before. They make me think that there has to be something in the grass there for these flowers to grow. Also, it’s important to mention that the disposable filter dulls colors. These bright and vivid flowers were even brighter and more vivid in real life.

This one picture is enough to convince anyone to go to the Victoria and Albert Museum. I love the V&A for many reasons, but primarily because the architecture of the building is just as stunning as all the pieces in the museum.

Two Truths and Lie

1. We met someone on our first day of London with a cousin who goes to KU

2. I fell asleep during the second half of Romeo and Julie

3. My favorite museum was the Science Museum

Favorite Tube Line: Piccadilly

Day with the most steps: Sunday, March 12th with 31,609 steps

Books bought: One

Favorite restaurant: Dishoom

Nickname: Aardvark Aarthi

15
See Page 97 for Answer Key

Alexis is a first year student at KU studying Strategic Communications, Leadership, Jewish Studies, and Service Learning. She enjoys reading, swimming, music, concerts, and traveling. Her favorite thing in London was visiting all the places mentioned in Taylor Swift’s “London Boy” and making a music video out of them.

NEXT STOP: EVERYTHING’S BIGGER IN... LONDON?

Purchased Five Books

16
TO FIND SWIFTIES IN ANOTHER COUNTRY LONDON EVENTS REVIEWED Top 5 Experiences: 1. Camden Market 2. Highgate 3. Bravissimo
Soccer Game
Lizzo 17
HOW
4.
5.

Everything’s Bigger in… London?

There’s this saying, everything’s bigger in Texas. However, some things are bigger in London. For example, the parks. The parks in London are just HUGE. Seriously, you could walk around Hyde Park or Hampstead Heath for hours without repeating a route or seeing the same thing twice.

I came to London with three goals. One, see all the places Taylor Swift mentions in her song “London Boy” and create a music video of me singing the lyrics in each place. Two, make new friends, meet new people, and learn new things. Three, go to Bravissimo, a specialty swimsuit and bra store I’d been ordering from for a year or so online.

As for goal number one, I visited Hackney, Highgate, Camden Market, Shoreditch, Brixton, the West End, Soho, “Louis V up on Bond Street”, and more. I made my music video and although it turned out somewhat different than I’d expected, I love it with my whole heart. I think making a music video in every country I visit would be so fun and such a cool way to capture the various places I go!

Goal two was easy to complete as well. I made friends with those on our trip, met new

people in London on the tube, through Taylor Swift, and at group dinners that alumni went to, and learned new things about myself, others on the trip, and the world around us.

Goal three was very exciting to me. No, I’m not kidding. You’ve probably never seen someone so excited to go bra shopping. I hate shopping in general but this store is amazing. I’ve been wearing their products for a year or so, but it’s so incredibly expensive to ship things from the UK to Kansas, especially when half the time I didn’t know what size I should order and had to return things because UK sizing differs from US sizing.

Bravissimo only has one store in the US. Yes, one, you read that right. It happens to be in New York, not Kansas, (a girl can dream, right?) so I’d never been. There are twenty six Bravissimo stores in the United Kingdom. That is twenty five more than in the whole entire United States of America.

Kennedy and I went to the first Bravissimo location of the trip on Monday on Tavistock Street, and even though it was the smaller of the two stores I was still so excited! It was around the back of a building, and after a few minutes of walking I had decided it probably didn’t exist. Luckily, we found the door and I was transported into wonderland when we stepped inside.

I finally found a one piece swimsuit comfortable and supportive enough to wear to work as a lifeguard. That’s a search that I’ve been working on for years. I

18
“London Boy” Music Video

bought two things and decided I may go back to another location later in the week. Simply being able to try on so many styles and suits at once was weirdly exciting for me.

Thursday, Sydney and I headed to another Bravissimo location on Margaret Street. I didn’t look up how big the store was but when we got there I realized it was massive. I tried on more things and new styles and they had so much stuff in my size which was just amazing. I again bought two things and called it good.

Later in the trip, Shayla also went to a Bravissimo store. AKA I indoctrinated three of the people on our trip to Bravissimo life. None of them are mad about it, and I certainly am not. You’d think that if everything’s bigger in America and Texas, they’d also have bigger bras. As it turns out, that’s not the case, and England wins on that front. Thanks, Bravissimo.

On the way to a play, my contact fell out on the floor of the tube (Piccadilly line, to be specific) and I picked it up and put it back in my eye.

I didn't sleep at all on the plane ride back from London to Chicago and ended up staying awake for over 25 hours. I even submitted a homework assignment around hour 22!

I absolutely hate math, but found myself splitting the bill (correctly, might I add) several nights of the trip and navigating the tubes.

I walked about an hour to a kosher restaurant, Reuben’s, to get a burger the day the tubes weren't running.

19

How To Find Swifties In Another Country

Last semester I started a Taylor Swift club called the KU Swift Society. There are over 30 chapters all over the world, although they’re not connected by a central national or international chapter like sororities or fraternities. There are several in the UK, and both Oxford and Cambridge have Swift Societies.

Oxford has 1,710 Instagram followers and 18,000 likes on TikTok. They frequently hold events such as black tie balls, pub quizzes, karaoke, movie nights, and more. I reached out the day before we flew to London to see if they had any events going on the day we’d all be at Oxford together. Unfortunately they said no, as their term had already ended, but I wasn’t deterred.

I reached out to the University Colleges London Swift Society to see if they had anything going on. Apparently their events are students of the university only, (as are KU’s, but if we had an international visitor I’d bend the rules, personally) but their committee members offered to go out for coffee and hang out. Thursday finally rolled around and I was so nervous, although I wasn’t sure why. I shot their Instagram page a message letting them know I had arrived at the coffee shop and what I was wearing/what I looked like. Their president, Alessandra, got there first, and we spoke for half an hour about their society, how they started it, where she was from, and more.

Once the Treasurer, Alex, and Welfare officer, Toni, arrived, we all got drinks and spoke about a wide range of topics. I asked them what they thought about Taylor not announcing international dates of her tour yet and they told me how university works in the UK. They were pretty jealous that I am able to take electives such as Stretch and Mindfulness, University Singers Choir, and The London Review.

We got on the topic of politics and they each spoke about Romanian and British politics. Alessandra told me about when she lived in the US for a year during high school. She told me the story of how Trump walked past her during a school trip to D.C., and how someone on the same program the next year died in a school shooting.

20
Me (Alexis), meeting Alex, Alessandra, and Toni

I told them about our trip to London, where I’d been so far, making a London Boy music video, and why I started a Swift Society. They told me they have four hundred paying members of their society but one of their events only got 3 attendees. I felt much better about our average 12ish attendees. I learned a lot about how their society operates and how student organizations in general typically work in England. They are all third year students, and were preparing for graduation right after exams. They talked to me about the uncertainty around leaving a leadership position and the upcoming elections the club was holding to select the next year’s committee. I’ve still got another year at KU but I’m already missing having such a strong community of people with a common love for Taylor and her music. This amazing experience showed me you can find a fellow Swiftie anywhere; at Freshman Orientation, concerts, in my classes, in Wescoe at the Underground, and even in another country.

21
KU Swift Society at Mocktail Night in February

London Events Reviewed

John Green has a book called The Anthropocene Reviewed in which he reviews random human experiences and items in our world on a five star scale after providing readers with some fun facts and information about the item or experience. I decided to write a London Events Reviewed in the same style.

The first show we saw as a class on Monday. I decided to read the review Mary sent and immediately decided I wasn’t going to enjoy it. The review described the play, Romeo and Julie, as “spun as a romcom cum kitchen sink drama”. I went in skeptical, but came out moved and appreciative of the show. I found it to be well written and performed, and not like the review described it at all. Despite the fact that I got jump scared every time they blasted music (between every scene), I really enjoyed this play. I give it 4/5 stars.

The next show I saw was on Wednesday. I’ve always loved concerts and the O2 Arena is pretty iconic, with Billie Eilish’s concert movie being filmed there, some 2012 Paralympic and Olympic events and activities being held there, Led Zeppelin recording a live album there and more. I actually didn’t have any idea what it looked like on the outside and was very put off by the cranes coming out of the top of the arena.

After an hour and a half 5 mile Uber ride

because of the tube strike, we walked into the O2 to see Lizzo JUST as she was starting. We momentarily lost Dazhia, but eventually reconnected and watched most of the show! I bought a poster and Kennedy and Dazhia got (unintentionally) matching tee shirts.

The tube strike was really annoying and we did end up leaving a few songs early to ensure we had a way home. We got to take a super fun cable car over the river Thames because there were no Ubers available on our side of the river. We had the most amazing driver once we got to the other side. He shocked us by letting us know that speed limits in England are in miles, told us stories of driving people to Heathrow and then realizing

their passports were still in hotel safes, and overall had a great conversation with us. I’d give my Lizzo at the O2 experience a 5/5.

Thursday, Jude, Kennedy, and I went to see To Kill a Mockingbird. This is the pivotal moment at which I learned that in London they sell you Häagen Daz ice cream INSIDE the theatre during interlude. I unfortunately got the start time of the play wrong and arrived 5 minutes late. The ushers have to wait until 30 minutes into the play to show the stragglers to their seats, so I watched the first few acts on a TV in the main lobby.

On the tube ride home, we argued about if Boo Radley or Jem really killed Bob Ewell

22

during the closing of the show. We got snacks at Tesco Express as a late dinner and overall it was a good experience. 4/5 stars because being late wasn’t very fun.

The very next night, Friday, I went to my third show night in a row. Jude and I bought day-of tickets to Oklahoma because I thought the advertisements in the tube looked enticing. I was expecting a homey little southern musical and instead I got a pitch black theatre while someone whispered very scary things to Jud. The house lights were on for half of the play and the other half the only lighting was the exit signs in the theatre.

Some girls behind us turned on their phones a tiny bit so it wouldn’t be pitch black and a woman a few seats over yelled at them. They had to get up and leave because it was too scary (justifiably so). I didn’t really understand most of the storylines and both Jude and I walked out of the play very confused and somewhat disappointed. I give this play 2/5 stars. Saturday morning Mauricio, Shamaria, and I set off to Loftus Road Stadium to watch the Queens Park Rangers face off against Birmingham City F.C. We stopped by a Ukraine Day tailgate, the home team pub, and the concessions stand on our way to our seats. We also got to meet a world cup player at the Ukraine Day tailgate and got a picture with the mascot!

There was only one goal the whole game, and it wasn’t made by the home team, but I wasn’t there for the sports. I wanted to experience this piece of English life that is so prevalent in the culture. I was fascinated by the hundreds of strangers

chanting the same cheers and yelling expletives at the other team’s fans.

You might be thinking, isn’t there soccer, football, basketball, and a bunch of other sports in the US? Yes, but for some reason this seemed way more wholesome. There might’ve been three times more cursing than I’ve ever heard at a US sports game, but there was no alcohol allowed in the stands. There were fun shout-outs to fans in the crowd who were celebrating retirement, birthdays, new babies, and more. It really seemed like a family activity and definitely one of my top “Londoner” or “Local” feeling moments. I felt like a part of the community and culture of London! Definitely 5/5 stars. Overall, I’d give my London event experiences a 5/5. I was pleasantly surprised at Romeo and Julie, very weirded out by Oklahoma, and

enchanted by To Kill a Mockingbird. My Lizzo poster now hangs proudly on my wall at home, and I’m planning to go to a soccer game during my trip to Brazil in May.

23

Austin is a second year student from Overland Park, KS, studying Economics and Political Science with a minor in Spanish. At KU, he is involved with Student Senate, Marching Band, Music Mentors, and the Environmental Policy Research Team. In his free time, Austin enjoys drawing, music, sports, and spending time with friends. In London, he enjoyed visiting museums and exploring the city’s landmarks.

NEXT STOP: THE ETHICAL QUESTION OF BRITISH MUSEUMS

Top 5 Experiences: 1. St. Paul’s 2. V&A

3. British Museum 4. Oxford

24
5. Westminster

VOTED MOST LIKELY TO MAKE FRIENDS IN THE LOO

TALKING TO STRANGERS

THE CATHEDRAL AND THE ABBEY

Favorite Restaurant: Dishoom

25

The Ethical Question of British Museums

The museums of London are a phenomenon. They have gathered artifacts from all over the world into one city, with the purpose of drawing people from all over the world to see them. During our week in London, I had the opportunity to experience arguably the greatest collections in the world. At the infamous British museum, I saw the Rosetta stone, the Parthenon statues, ancient African sculptures, Egyptian statues, and more. I can undoubtedly say that I was amazed by the exhibits and certainly enjoyed learning and experiencing the art of historical cultures around the world. However, the entire time I was there, I couldn’t shake the feeling that somehow this was all wrong. It prompted me to think more critically about the ethics of museum consumption, and how the British government has created a multi-million dollar industry based on the exhibition of stolen artifacts.

The term ‘stolen’ should not be controversial in this context because it is historically accurate.

The Rosetta stone, for instance, was originally looted from Egypt by the French under Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798. Shortly thereafter, French-controlled Egypt was besieged by the British, and thus the Rosetta stone was stolen once again. Cases such as this can be said of nearly every artifact in the British museum. It’s important to note that the British empire, at its peak, stretched all over the world and had no issues with “collecting” their prized possessions. Many of these countries, such as Egypt and Greece, want their historical artifacts back. Some began asking for them over a hundred years ago. The British government, however, is of course reluctant to do so, as these prized possessions generate millions of pounds each year by serving as tourist attractions. The longer I continued to marvel at the remarkably-preserved wonders of the ancient world, the more cynical I became. These cultures should be able to exhibit the fragments of their own history themselves, and from their own perspectives. It may not be unethical to consume and immerse oneself in these museums, however it is important to recognize the historical significance of these exhibits and advocate for the returning of these artifacts for the sake of cultural justice.

26

Talking to Strangers

Some of the greatest highlights of the entire trip for me were the people I met along the way. I consider myself to be quite extroverted, especially when it comes to meeting people from different countries, cultures, and backgrounds. London was an excellent place to do so, as it is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, and, lucky for me, everyone speaks English. Throughout the week, I met several people in pubs, our hotel, and, surprisingly, bathrooms. Londoners are typically somewhat reserved when in public or going about their day, however there are certain environments in which it is culturally and socially acceptable to strike up a conversation with a stranger.

Our first night there, Camden and I stayed up late in the Strathmore lobby to watch KU play Texas in the Big XII tournament. It was a crushing loss, but one that we hardly even watched, as I was preoccupied with a conversation about politics with two fellows from Scotland, while Camden explained the semantics of basketball to a family from Wales. The next night, Camden and I met Oliver and Reuben, a father and son from Germany, in the public hotel bathroom. It eventually became a running joke that Cam and I would go to the bathroom

together to strike up a conversation with someone, and surprisingly, it worked. We would talk about sports, politics, and even the city itself. Public restrooms seem to be one of the few places where it is acceptable to talk to strangers, much unlike the culture of the US.

The other primary setting for conversion, much like the US, was pubs, specifically when standing at the bar. If people are sitting at a table away from the bar, don’t try to talk to them. But if they’re up at the front having a drink, they’re fair game. At the pubs I had the pleasure of meeting Robert from Liverpool, who thinks rugby is the greatest sport in the world, Oskar from Stockholm, who works as a consultant in New York, and Noah, a London-local with a hatred for Spanish soccer teams. These conversations taught me some of the intricacies of British social culture and small talk, a lesson that can only be truly attained through experience.

27

The Cathedral and the Abbey

Two destinations at the top of my list going into the trip were St. Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. I have always had a deep appreciation of historical architecture, and these two buildings are prime examples of such, in addition to their extensive cultural significance. The following is a recount of my experience visiting these two spectacles, as well as the emotions that came along with it.

The first thing that shocked me about Westminster Abbey was the hefty entry fee. I had just visited some of the greatest museums in the world free of charge, and now had to pay twenty pounds to see a church. The fee was well worth it, however, as the experience was both educational and aweinspiring. When I first stepped in, I was greeted by a breathtaking view of incredible architecture: Embezzled statues of former kings, intricate stonecarved ceilings, and antiquated paintings filled the room. The staff gave me an informational voiceover device and a pair of headphones, and the journey began. Walking through Westminster Abbey was like stepping into a crowded Gothic painting, with magnificent pieces of art accompanied by the graves and memorials of some of the most important people in human history. The abbey was packed with people, but I didn’t mind it because the quiet history lesson playing through my headphones allowed me to appreciate the art peacefully, as I explored the timeline of British royalty and extravagance.

Part of me expected St. Paul’s Cathedral to be a similar experience. After all, my reasons for wanting to visit them were mostly the same, yet

I turned out to be quite wrong. Although it also boasted exquisite architecture and a pricey entrance fee, the experience was altogether very different. The cathedral was enormous and uncrowded, complete with walls and ceilings of remarkable artistry. The true highlight of St. Paul’s, however, is what lies above and below the main floor. A small group of us decided to make the trek to the very top of the cathedral, a hike that took over 500 steps and burned a thousand calories. The view at the very top was my favorite of the entire week: a panoramic vista of the entire city. The scene of the London skyline was straight out of a

postcard, making the climb well worth it. Below the cathedral lies the crypt, a calm chamber of historically significant memorials and graves, such as Florence Nightingale and Joseph Turner. The strangest part of the crypt was being funneled through a gift shop and cafe on the way out, which felt somewhat disrespectful to me. Regardless, exploring the remarkable landmarks of St. Paul’s and Westminster Abbey was an experience I will never forget, and cannot recommend enough to those who haven’t done so.

28

Traveling With Your Brother

My brother and I have been going to the same schools our entire lives, just 2 years apart. We both ended up at KU, and I thought this might finally be our chance to take a class together. Alas, I arrived on the day I was enrolling for my senior year second semester classes, and we still had not been able to take a class together. As I was trying to decide what to take my final semester, I realized there was one class that Austin and I could take together: The London Review. I quickly called him and exclaimed that he

absolutely must take the class so we could have a class together before I graduated, and he enrolled! This was my first time ever taking a trip with just Austin from my family. Usually at least my mom or dad was along. Austin and I enjoy many of the same things about traveling such as going to museums, famous landmarks, and sampling local cuisines so I was confident we would have a good time together. I am more of an early riser and Austin is more of a night owl, so there were a few times where our paths would diverge at night or in the morning, but then we would also meet back up together in the afternoon. There were a few times we would get frustrated with each other of course (as all brothers do) but we were good at voicing our issues and resolving them quickly, such as when Austin asked me to stop playing British rap music in the morning while he was sleeping and I was getting ready. I could not be happier with the trip and I am forever grateful that we got to take this class together, I will never forget it!

Ethan and I have always been extremely close as brothers. In the past few years, both of us have had the pleasure of traveling around the world, from Mexico to Europe to Tanzania, yet we had never traveled like this together. When Ethan first told me about the London Review, I knew we had to go. Not only would it be the perfect opportunity to visit another country together, but also a unique experience that we could enjoy as brothers before Ethan graduates. The future is never certain, and so I saw the London Review as an opportunity to experience a week of quality time with Ethan before he moves on to greater things in life.

The trip did not disappoint in this regard. Naturally, we elected to be roommates on this trip. Having lived under the same roof for sixteen years, it was almost nostalgic to be sharing a room

with him again. Granted, it became annoying at times, such as when Ethan would blast Ed Sheeran and British rap music during his morning shower, but it was well worth it. Throughout the week, we got to travel the city and explore its most famous landmarks together as brothers, all the while enjoying each other’s company. Even putting aside the remarkable cultural experience that was the London Review, this trip commemorated our relationship as brothers in many ways, and was an experience that we will continue to bond over for the rest of our lives.

29

Camden Baxter is a junior economics major from Wichita, Kansas. A lifelong KU fan, among his earliest memories is going to bed crying with two minutes left in the 2008 National Championship game because the outlook was so dire for his beloved Jayhawks. He is yet to forgive himself for missing the fabled comeback & overtime victory. Outside school and work, Camden enjoys watching sports, working out, and obsessively reading various periodicals, especially the Wall Street Journal. He is not sure what he wants to do with his life, but felt as though this trip abroad, his very first, exposed him to program alumni doing a variety of different things and will inform his future decisions. Should worst comes to worst, he will probably just ask Mary to put in a good word to one of her forty-odd thousand former students doing incredible things.

NEXT STOP: A CANTERBURY TALE

30
VOTED MOST LIKELY TO MAKE A RANDOM FRIEND ON THE STREET IN LONDON

A PLANE RIDE AND THE PITT RIVERS

PUB TALK

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Trip to Canterbury

2. Pitt Rivers Collection

3. The Turf Pub in Oxford

4. Dishoom

5. British Museum

31

A Canterbury Tale

My approach to leisure differs sharply from the way I treat work and school, intentionally so. I have always wondered aloud that, without a departure from the strict regimen of type-A workaholism that otherwise defines my days, is ‘time off’ really time off? My answer is an unequivocal no, motivating a set of vacation policies that are highly incongruous with the way that I spend my life outside of leisure. To start, I champion spontaneity. Plans are at most a rough outline, leaving ample space for the improvisation and freewheeling exploration that create vibrant memories of new, exciting, and unexpected experiences. Moreover, I adopt a “figure it out” mentality. Did something go wrong? I’ll figure it out. Do I have any idea what I’m doing today? I’ll figure it out. There is plenty of worry in life – no need to spend precious days off agonizing over the trivial stuff. Finally, I adopt a strict ‘yes-first’ approach. If something is worth considering doing, it is probably worth saying yes to (with the obvious exceptions of dangerous, illegal, or otherwise uncouth propositions).

The trip I took to Canterbury ended up as the product and practice of all three. The setting of Chaucer’s famed novel is a lovely little seaside town to the southeast of London. Its central district is ringed by ancient walls originally constructed by the Romans, their imposing figures crowned with parapets at mostly regular intervals. While their appearance might suggest a lack of

modern precision in construction, they are among the most impressive (and ancient) structures I have yet laid eyes upon. The narrow streets wind capriciously through tightlypacked shops and restaurants, unlike any American town I have encountered. Just a handful of miles (sorry, kilometers) from the Channel, the cold breeze is tinged with the unmistakable scent of the sea and filled with the cries of gulls circling above. Not that I knew any of this on Monday morning, though.

You see, I hadn’t actually planned this trip, nor had I anticipated it happening – I had no idea how I was going to spend my afternoon, and I was okay with that. It meant that when Kat walked up to Solomon and I and pitched it, I was free to shrug my shoulders and say “why not?”. Within minutes, I had purchased a train ticket and embarked through central London to King’s Cross St. Pancras to the national rail station.

The train ride wasn’t all fun and games, though –we ended up in the latter half of the twelve segment train, which we were told was going to split in two. Only the first half would go on to Canterbury. Simple enough. On the PA system, a male voice calmly explained that, at the next stop, those needing to go to Canterbury would have four minutes to disembark and make their way to the front part of the train. When the train stops, we do as we’re told – we step off and begin walking forward. Thirty seconds later, though the doors closed and the high-speed train darted off into the horizon, quickly disappearing from view. We were dumbfounded – it took a solid fifteen seconds of stunned silence, punctuated by more than a few “what the hell’s,” before the reality set in. We were stranded in the middle of what was, as far as we were concerned, nowhere, with the next train on our line more than an hour out.

But I wasn’t distraught, by any means – in fact, after a quick survey of the Uber app put the price to

complete the trip via car at a mere sixty-two pounds, the “figure it out” part of my traveler’s brain got to turning. For twenty-five bucks a person, we could get where we needed to – with the added experience of having a captiveaudience Briton to hang out with for a half-hour. This would be fun!

The Uber arrived, and after chiding us for getting waiting at the wrong spot (apparently that train station has a very particular location for ride-share pickups and drop-offs), our conversation with Josue fell into a rhythm. A Brazilian man, he had lived in the United States for a decade before losing the visa lottery and having to emigrate. Not wanting to go back home, he chose England, where his skills in the trades were better-remunerated. We spoke at length on his peripatetic life – he described and compared his experience in all three countries. While he has forever missed Brazil’s natural beauty and the other things that make it home, he reflected glowingly on his time in the States – a tinge of wistfulness crept into his memories of the economic opportunity, in particular. Yet the visa situation got complicated in the fallout from 9/11,

32

and his stay was not extended. In the back of the Uber, as the conversation continued, I couldn’t believe our luck – it may had cost us twenty-five quid, but we got to enjoy a lovely afternoon drive through the verdant South England countryside and a cross-section of the travels that have defined a fascinating life. My freewheeling approach to travel seemed, at least for the time-being, vindicated.

Upon arrival to Canterbury, however, I again had to confront the fact that I had agreed to travel to a city I knew quite literally thing about, on a whim. Kat had an appointment at the Cathedral’s reading room, which meant that, after the three of us sank a quick pint at a Shakespearethemed pub, Solomon and I were on our own. We’d figure it out, I thought. After all, was this not what I wanted from my trip?

We wandered through the maze-like corridors of the central district, popping in and out of shops without

purpose. I did buy a pair of slacks, a slinky gray chino that has already seen much use, but that was about it. Eventually, we decided that we would make an attempt to get into the Cathedral – after all, its magnificent edifices had commanded our attention for much of the afternoon, even in the faint edges of our peripheral vision as it peered through the occasional space in between buildings. We stepped into the visitor center, who told us that the cathedral would open at 5:00 for a 5:30 Evensong service. We had to kill an hour. What better than a pint to do just that?

The first tavern we came across was a rock-androll themed establishment with a certifiably non-corporate crowd, and we figured we’d give it a go. The British alternative scene was always an interest of mine, anyway. We had a bear of a time getting a table – they were setting up for a concert, which meant much of the floor space was crisscrossed with cables and other audio equipment, no place to risk a wayward pint. Solomon and I sat in a corner, enjoying good beer and better conversation. The highlight of that visit was a Briton who overheard our American

dialect and thought that we were with the band – I have never been so tempted to lie to a stranger in my life. We sheepishly admitted that we were just tourists, and he laughed at his misperception and wished us a good trip. We had to go, anyway – it was time for Evensong.

We had no idea what this service was, just that it was our chance to see the church. Kat was going, too, so we met up outside on the wind-whipped lawn and ventured in. The inside of the Cathedral far surpassed even my lofty expectations – the vaulted ceilings were supported by graceful, sophisticated arches constructed with meticulous precision over hundreds of years. A glittering wall of stained glass caught the dying light as the sun crept below the horizon, throwing kaleidoscope-like projections onto the magnificent masonry. I stared in awe, my mouth partly agape – never before had I been inside a Cathedral, let alone one as ancient and storied as this one. The service, too, lived up to the moment. The choir – which I am told is famous – filled the halls with a collection of hymnals that reverberated in complex and varied ways, immersing my ears in a collection of timbres, pitches, and overtones that complemented each other with near-uncanny precision. It was a breathtaking vocal performance.

The rest of the trip was fairly straightforward – we unwound at a pub and hopped on the train back to London, taking great care to sit in the first six cars. As our train streaked across the now-dark countryside, I took some time to reflect on the series of decisions and outlooks that had made the day. In less than thirty seconds, I had gone from having no clue how I was to spend my day to agreeing to head to a town I knew nothing

about.

A mishap on the way meant a chance to ‘figure it out’ and an even better experience. Finally, once we got there, we decided how to enjoy Canterbury in the heat of the moment, crafting an unforgettable experience out of what began as aimless wandering. My heterodox approach to travel had yet again been validated.

33

A Plane Ride and the Pitt Rivers

My journey to London began in the middle seat of the very last row of an overbooked flight that I was thrilled just to have a spot on. It was a twohour trip to Atlanta, and after bouncing my head off of the rear bulkhead trying to recline my seat, I came to understand that Delta’s margins couldn’t accommodate the inclusion of a handful of inches of space behind the last row to permit the seats to lean back. My posture would be ramrod-straight, fit for a soldier, whether or not I wanted it to be.

There is one thing you should know about me: I have a profound talent for annoying those with the misfortune to have been seated next to me on flights. It is an inescapable truth that I am debilitatingly gregarious, incapable of sharing space with even a total stranger without attempting to strike up some sort of conversation. Often, once pleasantries are exchanged and our mutual existences acknowledged, we’ll resign ourselves to our respective in-flight entertainment. Others respond with a brusque “fine, thanks” (regardless of the question) and make resoundingly clear their preference for solitude in that moment. The man seated to my right,

however, was an example of the less common third case: a stranger as willing to partake in the stilted mile-high social scene as myself.

“Where are you headed?”, I ventured.

“Sydney” was the reply, in an accent of obvious anglosphere origin but whose exact provenance was uncertain.

“You an Aussie?”

“Nope, British.” That probably should have been obvious, I thought.

Despite that blunder, the conversation continued. “Why are you going to Atlanta, to get to Sydney?” I wondered out loud.

“That’s the beautiful thing about the military, mate – I’m not allowed to worry about those things” was the reply.

“King Charles really sent you the wrong way to save fifty quid?”, I quipped – and the tension dissipated with the man’s chuckle at my admittedly cheap joke.

His name was Blair, and he was a British

military officer with the privilege of a deployment at Fort Leavenworth. His trip to Sydney, he told me, was under the auspices of Five Eyes, the anglosphere’s intelligence-sharing program that was hosting a conference down-under. I asked him what he thought of Kansas, and his response was not what I had expected from a man living next door to an onshore-Guantanamo in the middle of the Great Plains. Not only did his kids love their school, he said, but he found the people of Kansas’s salt-of-theearth demeanor and emphasis on honest, hard work reminiscent of his hometown, Birmingham. I was shocked to hear that, of all the places in America he’d

been, my home state was his favorite. Clearly, we got along well, and we ended up talking almost the entire flight. At one point, he mentioned the ease of accessing information and contacting other military intelligence officers through Five Eyes’ online software, which he called “Spy Facebook.” I presume that’s what he was using when, during a brief lapse in the conversation, he angled his iPad toward the window to hide it from view and studied the screen intensely while complaining about the in-flight internet.

The questions went the other way, too. Blair asked me about where I was headed, and the excitement and speed of his speech noticeably grew when I told him London. I explained the study abroad program, and listed some of our planned activities. “Oh, and we’re spending a day in Oxford,” I mentioned at the very end, almost as an afterthought. His eyes lit up at the mention of the storied city.

“Oh man, listen – there’s this one place in Oxford you’ve gotta go to, I see it every time I visit. It’s

34

incredible. It’s called the Pitt Rivers.”

“What’s that?”

“Basically, Pitt Rivers was this British anthropologist that traveled around the world and stole everything.” (The actual phrase he used here isn’t fit to print).

“Wasn’t that most of them?”

“Yes, but he was a thief’s thief. His collection is housed in the back of the natural history museum at Oxford, I can’t recommend it enough.”

He launched into a description of the museum’s display pieces, organized not by culture of origin, but by type of object. The result, he said, was a cross-section of objects of similar purpose and meaning from all over the world. Dolls, smoking devices, representations of religious idols, weapons – countless items, probably deeply important to the cultures from which they were expropriated, all under one roof. Above all else, he said, the museum was a place of conflict. The British Museum’s laundry list of stolen statues and carvings are one thing, but there is a unique quality of personal items – things used by normal people, every day – that drives home the reality of imperial plunder. His countenance grew sterner as he acknowledged that his interest and curiosity was quintessentially

tokens of good luck and remembrance, religious iconography, medical tools, and so much more. Ceremonial clothing adorned mannequins; burial artifacts sat in glass cases. There is a disconcerting feeling that comes merely with being in the presence a collection of misbegotten artifacts; confronting one’s fascination with it is another thing altogether. I was transfixed yet horrified; whether transfixed by the horror or horrified by my transfixion, I didn’t know.

The museum has added signs in recent years acknowledging the work it is yet to do in confronting its imperialist past, but these admissions feel nothing if not incongruous. The scene is so thoroughly soaked in the rotten norms of a bygone era that to even concede culpability as if atonement is achievable while its doors remain open comes off as farcical. Yet, in spite of this, I spent nearly three hours in the collection. As torn as I was, it is undeniable that nowhere else on Earth will one have the opportunity to experience the products of so many different cultures and histories – unduly obtained or not – in one place. To fail to avail myself of that chance seemed in its own way disrespectful. I left the Pitt Rivers with a cocktail of thoughts and emotions sitting heavy in my

morbid, a sick fascination with things whose fraught origins make it even harder to peel your eyes off of them. I decided in this moment that I would have to see the Pitt Rivers for myself, to corroborate Blair’s recollection.

The collection lived up to the recommendation. Never before have I encountered an array of artifacts as diverse – geographically and temporally – as I did in the Pitt Rivers. Charms,

stomach that I can honestly say I had never before experienced. To start, there was the sort of buzz that prolonged academic intrigue and stimulation brings me; the hum of endorphins and mental fatigue reminiscent of the effects of an actual, physical workout. Underlying this satisfaction, though, was a somberness that is difficult to put my finger on. I wasn’t guilty; I certainly don’t feel as though I incurred any fault from merely visiting the collection. Yet I can’t claim that the gravity of what I had just witnessed didn’t affect me at some level. I think that one strikes a bargain upon entering the Pitt Rivers – you acknowledge and, to an extent, internalize the vast amount of harm you are about to bear witness to in exchange for an immersive museum experience that is truly visceral, to the point of discomfort. That conflict stewed inside of me on the bus ride back to the hotel. The raw humanity – and the lack thereof – is a new thing entirely to confront.

35

It did not take long for Austin and I to establish ourselves as denizens of the pub on the ground floor of the Strathmore. Its rustic character was quintessentially English – the richly stained woodwork and bar top beneath mounted paintings of the building’s original gentry owners left no doubt as to which part of the world we were in. It would have been doing our London

onslaught. The game wasn’t going well and later ended in a double-digit loss. We weren’t paying much attention, though – our company in the pub was far too fascinating to ignore. On one side, two lovely British couples went back and forth with us on any manner of subjects, from American politics to the university system. The two men

experience a disservice to fail to avail ourselves of near-nightly lounges in a place such as this – where the conversation effortlessly flowed between friends and strangers alike; and where the utter British-ness of it all permeated every cubic inch. Besides, there is a unique camaraderie that sharing a drink with someone brings. Regardless of whether not you knew them beforehand, thought anything they had to say was worth listening to, or ever wanted to see them again, you have at the very least sat down and enjoyed a pint along with their company. I approached this pub not as a tippler’s utopia, but a place to get a ‘real’ cross-section of Britain. A place to sit down and chat and learn from people with unfamiliar backgrounds and lives, and pick their brains and hopefully become a more well-rounded international citizen in the process.

The night of the KU-Texas Big XII tournament game, Austin and I huddled around my laptop and watched the Jayhawks’ rudderless offense flounder against Texas’s defensive

had met as musicians in Britain’s most prestigious military band, and the effortless banter them and their wives tossed at both us and each other made us feel as though we had known them for a lifetime. We made a toast and shared a drink (or two). They were particularly fond of Corona. While I regaled them with tales of the American Greek life system – which, by the way, is utterly confounding to anyone not habituated to it –Austin found himself in a heated discussion with two men on the other side of the room, seated next to the mantle. They were certified Tories, and their politics ran aground against Austin’s far-less conservative bent. My own conversation turned to politics. We discussed the Federal system, the constraints on government power in each respective country, and the normative question of what the role of a government even is. We agreed on most points from a policy perspective – but what fascinated me the most were the starkly different approaches to that last normative question. Admittedly, things had gotten a bit hazy by this point, but my main takeaway was that even in Britain, the European nation most analogous

36
Pub Talk

to my own in the political sense, the baseline support for the notion that government should directly intervene in society to improve outcomes is an order of magnitude higher than in the U.S. Accustomed to programs like the NHS, a place like America, where the paradigm is tilted toward the “everyone is expected to figure out their own stuff, on their own” approach, seems beyond the pale. But they also spoke of English-ness as a more tangible thing than how I would describe the feeling of being an American – I picked up on a sense of national uniformity that didn’t really fit with my own experience in the States. This would end up as a common theme of the talks I had in this pub.

The next night, a German father and son joined Austin and I in the pub. The son was our age, named Reuben. The usual pleasantries exchanged, we shared drinks and again took to discussing politics. Reuben was a socialist – much

views on cultural tolerance, Reuben’s perspective was sharply conservative even though his views on social policy were extremely progressive. I think there’s a disconnect with the way Americans discuss European politics, and these conversations really drove that home. European perspectives on national identity and the role of government stood in stark contrast to my experience as an American. It’s easy to harp on the inadequacy of American social supports in relation to their European counterparts, but those arguments ignore the fact that we are astonishingly diverse in comparison to even the least-homogeneous European states. The cultural uniformity that someone like Reuben treasured is much harder to come by, as is the generous social policy that it undergirds. I learned more about European politics in those few hours than I had from all of my previous reading, There’s just something about enjoying a

further left than myself. By all accounts, he should be considered a progressive. Yet I found it startling how, despite being in favor of a sweeping welfare state, he didn’t really seem that progressive, especially when discussing other countries. I think this reveals a truth about European politics, and about why their societies are more able to sustain robust social safety nets than the U.S. Reuben openly spoke down on other nationalities, making quips about the Italians (among others) and commenting on the German identity. His country is smaller and more culturally homogeneous than mine – and, it felt, insular. In other words, Germans support the types of redistributive policies the U.S. has for decades shunned because there’s a sense of uniformity in cultural values. Reuben is able to see himself in every other German, and is therefore much more comfortable paying higher taxes to support them. Yet this generosity does not extend to those outside of his cultural group. By American standards, it’s paradoxical – even by our own (questionable)

pint with someone and sharing cultural values and stories that gives a special insight into what makes different people – and nations –tick. Of all my London experiences, I will treasure the time spent in the pub for its immersion in different political systems and the valuable insights it brought me.

Favorite piece you saw in a museum? Elgin Marbles

Did you ride the new Elizabeth line? Yes

One thing you wish you had time for? Tate Modern

What was your beginning of class nickname?

37
Coffee-drinking Camden

Daniel Mirakian is a freshman at KU from Olathe, KS. He’s studying Economics and is active in the Salt Company, Beta Alpha Psi, and the scholarship halls. He spends his time with friends and family, playing, thinking, and learning. He most enjoyed the parks and historic sites of London and surrounding cities.

Favorite Museum Piece: Dodo

NEXT STOP: ALIEN ACCENT AWARENESS (AND HOW TO OVERCOME IT)

38
WHISPERING, GORDON RAMSAY, AND GOING WITH THE FLOW EVERYTHING’S BACKWARDS IN LONDON Top 5 Experiences: 1. Fine Dining 2. Tower Of London 3. Riding The National Rail 4. Oxford 5. Hyde Park Purchased Two Books 39
BIRD

Alien Accent Awareness (And How To Overcome It)

I had never felt like an outsider until going to London this year. Not even when I traveled to the UK five years ago did I feel particularly out of place–likely because I was with my parents and was relatively young. I’d never even thought of myself as having an accent until my trip to London from March 10 through March 19. This is when I experienced an unfamiliar feeling that I’m calling Alien Accent Awareness, or AAA. I tried to spend the majority of my time in London on my own exploring the big city and surrounding areas. While this was fun, it proved challenging at first because of how self-conscious I was of my American accent. It sounds funny (not the accent, the feeling), but I couldn’t even think about speaking without a nagging fear of judgment clouding my head. It didn’t help

that several cashiers and waiters dropped a few conspicuous side-eyes my way when I spoke, not only in an American accent, but without a complete understanding of English tendencies. My AAA hit a high point in Oxford when I

realized that I was not only an American but an American carrying an incredibly touristy Union Jack bag with an Oxford crewneck in it. This is when the apple fell on my head. I decided to stop being a wimp and brighten up. After all, the biggest reason it felt awkward to talk was because of my guess at what other people would think, not actually what other people were thinking. I noticed quickly that, as long as I was confident when I spoke, people respected me. As I made this connection by trial and error, my era of unnecessary self-awareness drew to an end and my golden era of confidence began. I went on to choose and eat at several cool restaurants, travel (accidentally hitchhiking at first) on the national rail, explore completely foreign towns, and admire London’s finest attractions mostly solo. I believe that making the decision to go lone wolf was a great decision because, when I ran into problems like not having purchased a ticket for the national rail before getting on the train, I had to adapt on the go. This is exactly what traveling abroad is all about–taking on risks and challenges that catalyze

40

personal growth.

I acknowledge that I’ll probably never know what it truly feels like to be a foreign exchange student at KU because of the brevity of my time abroad, but I got a taste. My unprompted advice to anyone who doesn’t feel “at home” at KU or anywhere is this: Think

about how you see other people. I doubt you see the behavior of the extrovert in your class as awkward or embarrassing. That’s because it isn’t, and as long as you’re respectful to those around you and reasonably humble, it will always be not only normal but good to make your thoughts known to others. Given that you think before you speak, people will respect you for your contributions to conversations and it’s a great way to strengthen your individuality.

Two Truths And A Lie:

1. I got scolded by a palace guard.

2. I hitchhiked on the national rail.

3. I explored tunnels used by Churchill in WW2.

See Page 97 for Answer Key

Everything’s Backwards in London

Only in London

It has to be London

Behind a line of tiny Minis

An array of Shiny Ferraris

In London

Where he comes from

Where that guy goes

No one knows

Favorite tube line? Circle Line

How many books did you buy? Two.

It’s the London Tube

Then asks for your money

An unwanted tissue

A sad woman gives you

You’re in London

On the left!

Cars fast speed past–

In London

Everything’s backwards

What was your favorite museum? Oxford’s history museum.

Did you ride the new Elizabeth Line? No.

41

Bird Whispering, Gordon Ramsay, and Going With the Flow

When I woke up on Wednesday morning, after three days of semi-regimented tourism, I set off to face the Swinging City alone. I decided to take a step back from planning and just let the day take me on an adventure. My first stop was Hyde Park, which held my personal favorite part of this day. A fenced nature walk led me to a neon-clad man with a bird in his hand. I took his picture then successfully followed suit. After some patience, one of the vibrant parakeets streaked down and perched on my outstretched hand for a little while. It eventually flew away, likely disappointed by my lack of birdseed, but it was nonetheless a thrilling experience. After this pleasantry, I spotted a ferocious pack of dogs attacking two women and snapped a quick pic. Once satisfied with Hyde Park’s lively scenery and greenery, I tried in vain to rent a Santander bike. Following roughly 30 minutes of struggle and disappointment, I left the bike rack

and started walking to the nearest above-4-star Chinese restaurant–the Lucky Cat. I looked up the menu on my way there, only to discover that I was en route to a Gordon Ramsay restaurant. £39 for a 3-course lunch was too good of a deal for me to pass up, so I continued on my way. This was my first time ever dining at a restaurant by myself (let alone dining alone in London), and I’m sure that fact was painfully obvious to my patient host. The thick-accented man was incredibly kind. Unfortunately, I struggled to decipher what he was saying, nearly resulting in accidentally changing my dining location. Finally, the American successfully passed the first step of eating at a restaurant. I was seated in the middle of the room.

As I sat and waited for my waiter who politely (but quietly) assumed I was waiting for someone else to join me before ordering, I admired the Lucky Cat’s modern and brooding atmosphere. The

42

chef had a circular center stage cooking space, allowing me to inspect my food’s preparation from a distance. At long last, my waiter realized the error of his understandable assumption that I was eating with another person and came to take my order. Feeling adventurous, I ordered blindly by telling him to surprise me with his favorite item from each of the three courses of the meal. I received a bowl of rice, a delicious salmon topped with roe and greens, followed by some kind of raw fish with what looked like a flower garnish, and ended with “chocolate tofu.” Out of both shame and an attempt to challenge myself, I ate everything with the provided chopsticks. Following my dinner, I went shopping around Trafalgar Square and picked out a distinctive LeBron James x Liverpool FC hoodie. I ended the day with dinner at Wagamama with the group. Everything from this day was fun and was accompanied by colorful challenges and excitement. My main takeaway from this day is that it is surprising and fun to deviate from my norms. Instead of living by a schedule, I woke up and decided to just do things as they came to me. (I do not recommend this philosophy for exam preparation, but it works great when you’ve freed up the rest of your day.)

Waking up early to a completely free day with the intention of going out into the world and rolling with whatever I faced meant catching a bird and lots of fresh air, an odd but unforgettable meal, and a cool hoodie.

Famiglia Portico Review

If you want a high-quality, freshly made pasta and are in the Kensington area, Famiglia Portico is the place to go. The authentic family atmosphere is uncommon and very difficult to replicate. I had the tagliatelle with ragu!

43

Elizabeth is a junior studying journalism and creative writing. Born and raised in Omaha, she recently found a love of traveling after spending a semester in Berlin. Outside of school, Elizabeth enjoys listening to podcasts, hanging out with friends, and watching her little sister cheer. Her favorite part of London was window shopping at Liberty London, a luxury department store and fabric company.

NEXT STOP: GLOSSIER YOU: A LIFE REMEMBERED Purchased

44
BooksThree

VOTED

AN AFTERNOON IN HAMPSTEAD HEATH
5 Experiences:
Hampstead Heath
Liberty London 3. Tiger Tiger 4. London Review Bookshop
Notting Hill
AN ODE TO THE TRILLIONAIRE CUPCAKE
Top
1.
2.
5.
45
MOST LIKELY TO STUDY ABROAD AGAIN

Glossier You: A Life Remembered

June 21, 2020 – March 20, 2023

It is with great sadness that we gather here today to mourn the loss of a beloved companion, Glossier You, who was taken from this earth too soon at the Heathrow security.

I met Glossier You two years ago on my eighteenth birthday. She was a gift from my little sister, a crop of a summer’s minimum wage and a coupon code.

A marriage of femininity and musk with notes of citrus and spice, her scent followed me through life and became somewhat of a signature. She grew up with me. She was there when I walked across the stage at high school graduation; her flirtatious aromas guided me through my first kiss. Every meeting, every interview, every mundane coffee date: she was the final step in my routine, the cherry on top.

She was a powerhouse in her industry, the confidant of every twenty-something - a fragrance of a generation. She was a rite of passage after the days the days of Warm Vanilla Sugar. Worn

glossier.com to prove her innocence. Even the tears from a twenty-year-old teenage girl did nothing for her case.

Today, my heart is heavy. A piece of me has been missing since March 20. I’ve been confined to maintaining my floral mystique with a Dove 48-hour. I find myself in anguish every time I pass a trendy Gen Z; I save myself tears and hold my breath for fear of catching her citrus whiff.

As we part ways, let us remember Glossier You as more than just a fragrance, but as a symbol of youth, growth, and coming of age. Let us celebrate her life and the impact she had on us, and let us vow to never forget the joy and confidence that came in her trademark glass bottle.

Rest in peace, Glossier You. You will be missed, but never forgotten. And your replacement will arrive in 3-4 business days.

nepotism babies and underage Hawk drinkers alike, she was a woman of the peoplean egalitarian and probably a socialist.

At just $64, she graced the pages of Vogue alongside the Chanel N°5s and J’Adores of Big Perfume. She did honest work and had a successful career; her last business venture was a promotion to a lotion and body wash duo.

Her departure from this earth was a byproduct of an unjust system. Cashing in at just 1.7 fluid ounces, her journey to gate A33 was perfectly legal, but an unforgiving security guard insisted that her lack of a label dubbed her as contraband. I tried to plea with Mr. Heathrow; I insisted that she was a well-seasoned traveler, and I even took the lengths to www.

46

An Ode to the Trillionaire Cupcake

My feet were tired and my soul was astray, But in the distance, I saw a shining ray

A sweet haven on Gloucester Road I had found, A Tesco, where baked goods were abound

I wander through the aisles, my eyes aglow, my heart fills with joy, my pace begins to slow.

A sweet reward for the day’s wear and tear, I met the Trillionaire Cupcake in a stare

A feast for the senses; a heavenly sight A true indulgence that brought me delight

Every bite, a heavenly dream

With its rich, chocolate sponge Topped with caramel and buttercream

A sensation that leaves me wanting more. A dessert that left no bore

It dazzled with golden shine, Every bite a journey of pleasure divine; And a true masterpiece of a grocery bakery line.

It is the crown jewel of late night treats; A delicacy that simply cannot be beat.

It is gone now, a mere 4,000 miles away But the memories, I will not dismiss It was a cupcake that brought me pure bliss

-Elizabeth did ride the new Elizabeth line while in London, and has claimed it as her favorite tube line!!

-A stranger drew a picture of her on the tube!

47

An Afternoon In Hampstead Heath

It was a Saturday morning and I was still struck with the previous night’s events. Dirty hair, remnants of mascara, clothes past my usual wash threshold: I was a walking advertisement for Liquid IV.

Nevertheless, I was determined to bask in my last day in the city. With a large Costa in hand, I embarked on the hour-long journey to Hampstead Heath. The trip called for a transfer to the London Overground, the tube’s lesser-known counterpart. Given our hotel’s central location, I had become accustomed to short commutes; spoiled in 15-minute tube stints.

As I stepped onto the Heath, I felt a sense of liberation from the crying babies of the train. The lush greenery and fresh air were a muchneeded respite from the cramped streets of Zone 1; I felt as if I was finally catching my breath after days of spreadsheet agendas. I wandered aimlessly, taking in the natural beauty around me and putting my SPF to good use.

I stumbled into town and found myself

charmed by the rows of brick homes; their neutral frames made up in character through brightcolored doors and luscious porch plants. The streets were dazzled in sidewalk chalk and parked bicycles that reminded me of my cul-de-sac upbringing. There was an overwhelming sense of community; I saw a neighborhood that felt lived in.

Rain overtook my stroll, and II took refuge in a café. I refueled with a bagel (or at least an interpretation of one) and entertained a conversation with a local who was visiting her brother in the hospital. Emily was well-traveled: she was originally born in Nigeria but immigrated to England when she was a kid. She recently lived in the US while working at an ad agency in New

48

York. Our exchange was relatively surface-level; the five W’s paired with some peculiar advice on gut health, and she was on her way.

I finished my afternoon how I started it: walking with no true end destination. As the sky cleared up, I felt a sense of pure bliss. I was reminded that sometimes, the best experiences happen when we venture out of our comfort zones and embrace the unknown. I was proud of myself for how far I’ve come; I spent the first half of my junior year studying abroad in Berlin where I met a new version of myself. She pushes herself to new adventures; she’s not afraid to go out on her own; she makes small talk with strangers; she’s independent.

Two Truths And A Lie

1. I was named after the late Queen.

2. This was my second time in London.

3. I cried at Heathrow.

Most disappointing part of the trip?

Buckingham Palace

Most American thing you did during the trip? I got iced coffee in 40 degree weather.

How many books did you buy? Three.

49
See Page 97 for Answer Key

Emily is a senior at KU from Olathe, KS. She’s studying theatre and would like to be a lighting designer. She loves reading, writing, petting cats, watching British television, and eating. Her favorite part of visiting London was getting to explore the city, seeing plays/musicals, and spending time with her friends.

NEXT STOP: AN AFTERNOON WITH AN ANGEL VOTED MOST LIKELY TO MEET

SOMEONE FAMOUS IN LONDON 50

A GREENWICH PARK GOODBYE

TRANSPORT TROUBLE

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Visiting Greenwich Park

2. Day Trip To Brighton

3. Seeing Wicked

4. Scenery On The Bus Ride To Oxford

5. Borough Market

51

An Afternoon with an Angel

I’m sitting in the window booth of a cafe in the heart of Brighton, a lovely seaside town about a thirty minute train ride from London. I scan the crowds of people passing by, trying to spot a familiar, extraordinarily beautiful face. Finally, I see her. She’s tiny, almost childlike; just under 5ft 2 and barely 100lbs. She’s dressed against the cold in a plush coat and her hair - usually light blonde but dyed strawberry for a role - is tucked under a black Carhartt beanie. She’s wearing her trademark gold watch and silk neckerchief which is tied neatly around her neck. Upon seeing me, her face lights up with a smile so warm and welcoming that I feel like I’ve come home. She has the cheeriest demeanor of anyone I’ve ever known and it gives her a youthful glow that makes her seem much younger than her 59 years of age. This is my idol and dear friend - the one and only - Jane Horrocks.

Jane is an incredibly talented, award-winning actress; hailed as one of Britain’s finest. She’s a household name in the UK, a beloved icon of stage and screen. But her talent isn’t the only thing that makes her so remarkable. She’s also the most loving, supportive, altruistic, modest, and authentic human being you’ll ever meet, let alone someone of her celebrity status. She walks into the cafe and a palpable brightness enters with her. I stand up - that’s proper etiquette when meeting your Queen - and she

wraps her arms around me.

“So good to see you, Emily!” She chirps. My name sounds like “Emileh” in her broad northern vowels and hearing it in person again almost brings me to tears. It’s been a year since I’ve seen her and I’ve missed her fiercely. This time last year, Jane and I met in person for the first time and she treated me to tea at a French patisserie in Soho. The year before that, we were digital pen pals and once when I was feeling down, she sent a video of herself singing to me in her beautiful voice to try and cheer me up. The year before that, I discovered her and instantly became a massive fan. I was shocked to find that she didn’t have any fan accounts on Instagram - Jane is criminally underrated - so I decided I’d start my own. I wanted to provide a place where fans like me could celebrate her. I never expected her to see it or acknowledge my existence - she was a famous movie star after all and I was

nothing more than a face in the crowd. But after a month of running my account, I received a DM from her thanking me for my work and apologizing that she hadn’t messaged sooner. Of course I was shaking and fangirling to the extreme; I couldn’t believe that THE Jane Horrocks not only knew about my account, but had taken the time to express her gratitude. Little did I know, this was common practice for Jane and just when I thought I couldn’t love her more, she would one-up herself in acts of kindness.

We order our food and Jane pays for my meal as she always so generously does. The next hour goes by in a flash as we laugh and chat and have a good old catch-up. Such is Jane’s charm and presence that the longer you’re with her, the longer you want to stay. When she speaks, it’s with an endlessly soothing Lancashire lilt that you could listen to for hours. When you speak, she listens to you as if you’re the most fascinating person in the world, which she does to me as I tell her the details of my class trip and the article I plan to write about her.

From 1982 up until she moved to Brighton last year, London was her home, so she’s basically an expert on the city. I wanted to ask her about some of her favorite London things since she always has the best recommendations.

I ask if I can interview her and she says yes, so as a

thank you, I begin with one of her favorite subjects - food! “What’s your favorite dish you’ve ever had in London?”

“Ooo, my favorite dish!” Jane says excitedly. She furrows her brow in thought and mutters to herself, “hmm, dish…dish...”. I thought this might be a tough choice for her; it would be for me and I’ve only had a handful of London dishes. After a moment, she says, “There’s a great vegetarian restaurant in Soho called Mildred’s; every dish I’ve had there has been fantastic!”. I can fully vouch for this. I went there the next day and had the fennel bangers and mash which were divine! Hands down the best meal I had during the trip.

“And how about your favorite places in general?” I ask.

“Oh, well there’s Hampton Court, and you can actually get a boat from central London that would take you up to Hampton Court which would be a really lovely trip. Windsor Castle - Windsor Castle’s great, they’ve got a

52

big doll’s house there! Queen Anne’s dollhouse, and that’s amazing.” Now I’m the one listening intently, hanging on her every word and committing everything to memory. “The Tate Modern, which is a really amazing art gallery. That’s on the Southbank and that’s a fantastic walk. The London Eye,” Her eyes widen in mock fear, “which is also on the Southbank. I mean just wandering around in the evenings is great, around Covent Garden. There’s Shoreditch which is a different part of London - that’s east London - and that’s kind of like really trendy and hip.” She pauses to thank the waiter who’s just brought us our tea. I stare at the strainer in my cup, trying to remember the procedure for loose leaf tea, but thankfully Jane senses my confusion and begins making it for me. “There’s also Borough Market,” she continues, moving on to her own cup, “and they have amazing fruit and veg stalls - all sorts of different stalls!”

I’ve been to Borough Market and she’s right, it’s a smorgasbord of every kind of food imaginable, all laid out in colorful spreads. I’m picturing it in my mind and Jane must be too because her deep blue eyes sparkle like the sea. I catch myself staring, transfixed by her beauty, and quickly look away. Jane is used to this, especially from me, and she gives me a gentle, knowing smile as she continues, “There’s some table tennis clubs called Bounce, and they’re on Old Street in Farringdon. If you like table tennis - you know I do!” She giggles. I do, and she does. She plays with a team, I don’t know where but she’s talked about being the greeter for people coming in. The perfect job for a human golden retriever like Jane.

As far as boroughs go, Jane likes Dalston, Bermondsey, and Peckham, which she says “used to have sort of a bad reputation, but it’s quite nice now”. She then tells me of a place called The Cut, which is a stretch of

road that runs between Waterloo Road in Lambeth and Blackfriars Road in Southwark with lots of swanky bars and restaurants. This is where you’ll find two of Jane’s favorite theatres: the Young Vic where she played Annie in Annie Get Your Gun, and the Old Vic where she did King Lear and her most recent play, End Game.

But she often enjoys being in the audience as wellshe loved the Bob Marley musical last year - so I ask, “Have you seen any plays recently that you would recommend?”

Jane thinks for a moment. “Nothing of late but I’m going to see the Lehman Trilogy which I’m excited about.” It sounds intriguing; a three-act play that tells the story of the Lehman Brothers from when they arrived in America to the founding and subsequent collapse of their investment firm. It’s directed by Jane’s ex-boyfriend, Sam Mendes, and will run until the end of May at the National Theatre.

I inform Jane that this was my last question, and

she informs me that they were very good questions. There’s a lull in our conversation and only then do I notice how loud it’s gotten in the restaurant.

“Do you want to go and have a walk along the beach?” Jane asks, glancing behind me. “It’s just that I’m feeling a bit guilty”. I turn around and see that the restaurant is now packed with people, some waiting for a table. Feeling equally as guilty now, I nod and we quickly gather our things and head out.

We make our way along the busy streets, Jane leading the way and me trailing after her like a puppy. It doesn’t take long before we’re crunching along the pebbly beach and watching the waves crash into the shore with a mighty whoosh.

Jane looks out at the shimmering water and says, “It’s just incredible. So vast”. Her regency flat has an unobstructed view of the sea; she’s looked at it every day for the past year and yet there’s so much awe in her voice that you’d think she was seeing it for the first time. I feel the same about her; I’ve spent the last three years marveling at everything she is and she still feels like the 8th wonder of the world to me. I imagine she always will. My friend Malcolm has known her for thirty years and he says he still gets butterflies when he sees her. His friendship with Jane started just like mine. He was a starry-eyed fanboy and she was a young up-and-coming star whom he idolized. Jane welcomed him into her life with open arms and three decades later, having never changed a bit, she did the same for me.

We take some photos and walk around for a while, enjoying each other’s company. I never want the day to end, but it inevitably does. We give each other one last

hug and wave each other goodbye. She starts off down the road and I watch her walk away for a few seconds, tears pricking my eyes. I did this the last time we said goodbye and I don’t know why. Perhaps I’m looking for the wings that would confirm my suspicion that my idol, my friend, is actually an angel disguised as a petite northern woman.

53

A Greenwich Park Goodbye

As our time in London neared its end and our last full day arrived, I wanted to give this magnificent city the sendoff it deserved. So I hopped on the DLR (Docklands Light Railway) and made my way to Greenwich, home of Greenwich Park and its stunning views of the London skyline. Because it was a Saturday, Greenwich’s town square was absolutely heaving with people and it took a lot of squeezing, dodging, and apologizing to make my way through it. But despite the crowds, it was a cute, quintessentially English town that would make for a very enjoyable visit on a weekday.

A large iron gate and connecting fence separated the park from the rest of Greenwich, and the open grassy field I was met with was a welcomed change from the congestion of the town proper. I made my way across the field until the path I was on began to slope upward. The entrance to the park lies at the bottom of a giant hill, so in order to feast your

kicking footballs around with their kids, friends laughing and chatting…everywhere you looked, there was joy.

One of the perks of being in public places by yourself is that you’re more attuned to other people’s conversations and activities. I walked by a woman telling her old Cocker Spaniel who was wandering toward a muddy puddle that she wasn’t going to chase after him because she was wearing the wrong shoes. I saw a father teaching his son how to ride a bike; the perfect place given the wideness and gradual incline of the path - or decline in their case. The boy’s squeals of joy and his father’s shouts of encouragement became the wonderful soundtrack to the rest of my walk.

I was sweaty and hungry by the time I reached the top, but my discomfort vanished the moment the London skyline came into view. What I saw was something I’d only ever seen on a postcard, and it was more beautiful than I could’ve ever imagined. I could see the City of

eyes on those famous views, you have to earn it by trekking to the Royal Observatory at the top. It was quite a workout for an out-of-shape American like myself, but I was so captivated by the beauty and liveliness around me that I hardly noticed.

It was a lovely afternoon, if a bit cloudy, and everyone was out and about. There were dogs of all shapes and sizes chasing and fetching and bounding all over the place, happy as can be. None of them were leashed but they all seemed exceptionally well behaved; they came when they were called and never got too rowdy when playing. Some of the less-coordinated puppies - in hot pursuit of a ball or Frisbee - would sometimes bump into people, but most found it more amusing than annoying. There were families having picnics on checkered blankets, couples holding hands as they walked along, parents

London to the East and all the way to the O2 in the West. Below me was the open expanse of grass and trees that I’d just come from, which stretched out to the National Maritime Museum, Queen’s House, and beyond them, Greenwich Hospital. I could see a glimpse of the Thames and the Isle of Dogs with the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf front and center to the North. I stood there frozen in awe for a moment before a growl from my stomach reminded me how hungry I was. I reached into my backpack and retrieved the sandwich, crisps, and bottle of water I’d bought from M&S a couple hours prior.

I tried to commit every detail of my surroundings to memory while I ate my lunch. I could see that it was raining in the City of London, an isolated shower was obscuring the buildings in a gray mist. Everywhere else was dry, however, so I took some photos of those areas

54

after I’d finished eating. There were quite a few people there, but the viewing platform was large enough so that everyone had their own space.

As I was snapping pictures, I noticed the rain had slowly made its way from the City of London to Canary Wharf. It seemed to pause there, perhaps deciding if it wanted to head South and spoil our view. It must’ve been a particularly pitiless rain cloud because within minutes, raindrops began to fall over Greenwich Park. It wasn’t a downpour, but it reduced the visibility of the buildings enough to make them difficult to photograph. I’d taken all the photos I’d wanted to take, but I hadn’t said my goodbyes to the city yet and now it seemed I wouldn’t be able to since I could hardly see it anymore. It wasn’t a huge deal though and I decided that staying dry was a bigger priority. I started to gather up my things to leave when I noticed that none of my fellow sightseers were doing the same. They simply opened their umbrellas, held them over their human and canine companions alike, and continued to stare off into the distance.

No sooner had I decided that I would stay too, the clouds parted over Canary Wharf and the sun shone through. The wet buildings glistened in the sunlight, almost as if they were made of glass. The rain hadn’t let up in Greenwich yet so everyone remained under their umbrellas. There was something about the whole scene that moved me, and I knew I needed to get a photo of it immediately. There was a statue of James Wolfe, the general who secured Canada for the British during the Seven Years War, in the middle of the viewing platform with stairs leading up to it. I climbed to the top for a better vantage point. It took me a few tries but I finally got a photo that captured the feeling of the moment pretty well. By this point, the rain had stopped and I was able to sit back down and take one last gander of the city.

I know it’s weirdly sentimental, but London is like a friend to me and every time I leave it, I feel it deserves a goodbye. This time though, it was more of a thank you. A thank you to the city for a week of wonderful memories,

The sight made me smile to myself; this was English stoicism at its finest. They were totally unbothered, and I loved them for it.

and to my fellow sight-seers for being so delightfully English that I was able to create, and photograph, one final one.

55

Transport Trouble

I want to preface by saying that I fully support the tube strikes, and I only have myself to blame for ending up in the situation I did. Mistakes were made. Lessons were learned.

Wednesday night was our class dinner at Wagamama, but none of the tube lines were running that day due to a strike and trying to get anywhere was extremely difficult. For whatever reason, I’d convinced myself we were meeting at the Wagamama in Soho, so I decided to spend the day there to avoid any transport delays. I was right on time when five o’clock rolled around, but I didn’t see any familiar faces as I looked around the restaurant. An employee asked if he could help me, and I told him I was supposed to be meeting a large group of people there, under the name Klayder. He typed something into a mini iPad and told me that there weren’t any big groups booked under that name.

My brain finally returned from vacation long enough to give me the good sense to check our GroupMe. If I’d thought to do that earlier, I would’ve seen that it was the Wagamama in Covent Garden, not Soho. I berated myself for not thinking ahead - or thinking ahead but doing it wrong - knowing that given the tube strikes, I probably

wouldn’t get there until six. But thankfully, Mary had made it optional, so I grabbed a sandwich from the Marks and Spencer across the street and set my sights on getting to the bar I had made reservations for at seven. I’d made the reservation a few weeks prior thinking I was smart to book one in Whitechapel because I didn’t need the tube to get there. I could take the bus. But from what I’d encountered trying to get a bus to Soho that morning, it wasn’t going to be the easy twenty-five minute trip I’d planned for. Again, thinking ahead, but doing it wrong. Still, I had time and I thought I could manage it. I was so optimistic, so naive, and so terribly wrong. I waited at the closest stop and tried several times to get on a bus, but they were practically spilling over with people and the drivers would only allow one or two people on. Sometimes the doors wouldn’t open at all, and people would bang on the windows and shout at the driver to let them in. I felt like I

was in a zombie apocalypse film. By this point it was ten past six and I knew that walking was my fastest option, but it still would’ve taken an hour. Plus, I’d spent the last five days walking all over London and my feet hurt so badly I could barely stand, let alone walk that far. I thought about trying my luck with hailing a taxi, but there were so many cars on the road that traffic was basically at a standstill. It would’ve taken hours just to get out of Soho, let alone make it to Whitechapel. But the buses had their own lanes, so they were able to bypass the worst of the traffic. They were my only hope. I had to keep trying.

There were two bus stops on Regent Street that had buses going to Whitechapel and luckily they were only a few yards from each other. I stood at the stop with the least amount of people to increase my chances of getting on, then I looked down Regent Street until I saw one coming. If it was one of the buses that stopped at my station, I’d try to squeeze through to the front of the crowd only to have the doors close in my face. If the bus stopped at the other station, I’d do a painful sprint down to that one. What transpired over the next forty-five minutes was nothing short of my very own live-action

version of the SpongeBob SquarePants episode “Rock Bottom”. For those unfamiliar, SpongeBob gets on the wrong bus and ends up in a creepy town at the bottom of a trench. His only hope of getting back home is to catch a bus, but this proves exceedingly difficult as the bus only arrives when he’s not looking or leaves the stop, and it only stops for a split second.

It was almost seven and not only was it too late to make my reservation, but I was becoming increasingly concerned that I wouldn’t even be able to get back to our hotel. It was dark, cold, and the steady drizzle of the day had turned to a downpour. My phone had died, my backup charger had died, and the laptop I used to charge the charger had died. I was ready to just give up and sleep in the bedding section of Marks and Spencer. But then I witnessed something miraculous. A bus stopped in front of me and one by one, every single person got off. No one else got on. It sat there idling, empty save for the driver. I knew

56

it was too good to be true; the bus simply terminated there. However, a thought occurred to me and with it came a surge of newfound hope. Other buses would need to use that stop. It had to move, to go somewhere. And anywhere was better than there. So, with Pink Panther music playing in my head, I snuck onto the bus through the back. A few seconds later, it started to move. I gave a silent cheer and a sigh of relief - I was getting out of there! But my joy was short lived as we’d only gone a few blocks before the bus pulled to the curb and the lights shut off. The driver turned around and looked at me, confused.

“What are you doing here?” He asked.

“Oh, I thought this was going to Holborn.” I lied.

He shook his head. “No, no, you have to get off.”

So I did, utterly defeated. But as I looked around, I noticed that the area he’d stopped in wasn’t quite as busy. I wandered around for a bit before I found a bus stop and by then, I’d made up my mind that I was going to get on the next bus; it didn’t matter how full it was or where it was going.

Of course, that was easier said than done. The first bus didn’t arrive until eight and it had obviously just come from Regent Street as there were so many people on it, top and bottom, that it looked like it was about to tip over. There was no chance of getting on that one. Two more buses came. Same thing.

It was so late by the time the third bus arrived that the crowds had thinned out a bit. Not a lot, but just enough for me to squeeze on. It was still a packed bus and everyone’s faces were shoved into everyone’s backs but I didn’t care; I was relieved beyond measure. I’d accomplished the hardest step, now I had to figure out where we were going and more importantly, how to get back. I looked at the list of stops and saw that I was in luck; one of them was Euston Station which was a big transport hub, especially for buses. There had to be one there that would take me back to a hot shower and a cozy bed. The bus made several stops along the way and at every station, I looked out the window at the people who hadn’t been as lucky as me. They all looked exhausted; some stared at the ground, forlorn, while others glared at us with envy.

I was so thankful that I could finally rest my aching feet that I hardly noticed it took 30 minutes to

drive two miles to Euston. I stepped off and my heart leapt at the sight of bus stops all around me, each with only a handful of people. I checked the schedule, found one that would stop on Gloucester Road, and had no trouble getting on when it arrived. It was a quarter past ten when the bus finally reached my station. I practically had to drag my body back to the hotel and as soon as I got to my room, I collapsed on the bed and fell asleep. The next morning the tubes were up and running by nine. They warned that there would be delays, but that seemed minor compared to what I’d been through the day before. I’d never been more thankful to be hurtling through those tunnels and I hope it’s sooner rather than later when the tube workers are given the pay rise they deserve - for everyone’s sake!

Jane Horrocks’ Bio

Born in Rawtenstall, Lancashire in 1964, Jane discovered she had a penchant for performing at a young age and loved to mimic famous singers like Julie Andrews and Barbra Streisand. At age eighteen, she was accepted to RADA (Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts) and moved to London. Upon graduating, she spent two years at the RSC (Royal Shakespeare Company) before breaking out into film and television. Her early credits include The Dressmaker (1988), The Witches (1990), the cult classic Life is Sweet (1990), and a guest appearance on the TV series Red Dwarf (1992).

In 1992, Jane landed the role of Bubble in Jennifer Saunders’ universally beloved Britcom, Absolutely Fabulous. A year later, she starred as the titular character in Jim Cartwright’s hit West End play The Rise and Fall of Little Voice, which was written specifically for her to showcase her incredible talent for mimicry. In 1998, the play was made into a film (Little Voice) and received massive critical acclaim. By the early 2000’s, Jane had established herself as a tour-de-force and her momentum never slowed. She continued to charm audiences with performances in films such as the claymation classic Chicken Run (2000), the biopic Gracie! (2009), and the musical Sunshine on Leith (2013), as well as television series such as The Amazing Mrs. Pritchard (2006), Trollied (2011-2015), and Inside No 9. (2015). Currently, you can see her as Wendy in Bloods on Sky Comedy. Later this year, you can hear her reprise her role of Babs in the Chicken Run sequel and see her as the strawberry blonde Victoria Dalton in COBRA. Check out @littleshopofhorrocks on Instagram for more!

57

Ethan is a senior at KU, majoring in Biochemistry and Anthropology from Overland Park, Kansas. He serves as the Executive Director for the Center for Community Outreach and loves being involved at KU and in Lawrence. He also enjoys playing video games, volleyball, and hanging out with his friends. He enjoyed non-British cuisine in London and visited Westminster Abbey and St Paul’s Cathedral.

NEXT STOP: THE BRITISH MUSEUM FROM AN ANTHROPOLOGIST

VOTED MOST LIKELY TO FALL ASLEEP ON THE TUBE

58

VOTED BEST BROMANCE: THE BROTHERS, AUSTIN AND ETHAN

BRITISH SCIENCE

MUSEUM FROM A BIOCHEMIST

PITT RIVERS

MUSEUM FROM AN ANTHROPOLOGIST

Top 5 Experiences:

1. British Museum

2. Science Museum

3. Oxford

4. Big Ben/Westminster

5. Heaven Club

59

The British Museum from an Anthropologist

The British museum probably contains one of the most impressive collections in the world of artifacts, art, history, and relics from all across the world. That being said, it stands as a testament to Britain’s colonial and imperialist history, and I was shocked by Britain’s lack of effort to come to terms with that within the museum. This museum contains some of the most iconic pieces in the world from half of the Greek Parthenon marbles, to the Rosetta Stone. As amazing and awe-inspiring as it is to witness these monuments in person, it is difficult knowing where they came from and how they were obtained. The Napoleon led French took the stone from Egypt (where it was originally built and written) in the early 19th century, and then the British took it from the French shortly thereafter, and it has been in British possession ever since. The Egyptian government has wanted the stone back ever since it was taken, but it still remains at the British Museum in London. Similarly, the Greek

Parthenon marbles were taken in the early 19th century and have been in London ever since. The most disparaging part is that there are no displays in the museum around these objects addressing the conditions and circumstances that they were taken under. Walking around and entering the exhibit on India, I was disturbed to find very little information on Britain entering and colonizing India. In fact, one of the only displays reads “The British began governing India by direct rule” which was very alarming for me to read as the first mention of Britain in India. The museum starts to feel very artificial when

60

you really begin to look at and read the displays and where everything came from.

Most artifacts do not say where they came from, which leads to insinuate that they were taken during imperial times. Even more so alarming is when you realize the British museum has over 8 million artifacts in their collection, and they can only put out 80,000 at one time. Meaning we only see 1 percent of their collection, and for every 1 item you see there are 99 more. I cannot imagine how you can justify keeping so many artifacts when you can barely put a percent of them on display, and

firmly believe that the British Museum needs to return many of these artifacts to where they came from.

Two Truths And A Lie

1. I had fish and chips in London

2. I went to 7 museums while we were there

3. I went to a club the night before we left back for the US

See Page 97 for Answer Key

61

British Science Museum from a Biochemist

The British Science Museum surpassed my expectations in every way possible, from its inclusive and engaging displays, to its rotating collection of premium exhibits. The museum does an exceptionally good job at having fun, playful, and interesting exhibits for children to get interested and explore those interests in science, while balancing that with more in depth and historical displays of science, technology, math, and engineering (STEM). You could legitimately spend all day in the science museum, going from floor to floor where each one has a different focus within STEM. As a space enthusiast, the aerospace exhibit on the ground floor was amazing and engaging, with content and displays for readers of all lexiles and people of all ages. The British Science Museum has a rotation of premium displays and exhibits that keep it fresh and interesting for students and families of all ages, like the sci-fi exhibit that was present when we went recently. They had an authentic Darth Vader helmet from Star Wars: Empire Strikes Back and

a full model Iron Man suit that I was freaking out over. The museum had a fantastic mathematics and media section that really showed how the two intertwined, and how our better understanding of math led to mass media. One thing that really disappointed me about the museum though, was the lack of an exhibit on the environment and climate change. Arguably the most dire issue of our generation that affects everyone on the planet, was virtually nowhere to be found at the museum. Museums are places of learning and history, and when all science done on climate change has shown that it exists and is an issue, I expected the British Science Museum to do better and address it.

Pitt Rivers Museum from an Anthropologist

The Pitt Rivers museum of Anthropology left me feeling very conflicted as I exited the exhibit Sunday afternoon. My initial reaction was that it should be shut down immediately, and is causing more harm than good by being open to the public. The Pitt Rivers felt like an embodiment of colonization as a museum, with artifacts and relics that were pillaged from people all around the world. As you enter the museum from the natural history museum, you feel like you are entering a cave as you walk in surrounded by artifacts in glass display cases and lit with dim lighting from above. It’s almost claustrophobic walking between displays that are labeled as “Asian Religion” and inside are quite literally a hundred or more figurines from all around Asia having to do with religion, with very little context. The Pitt Rivers tries to cram in as many artifacts as it can without giving apt descriptions and context as to what you are looking

at, and absolutely no information on where it is from. I will give the Pitt Rivers credit for hiring Dan Hicks as their curator, who is an outspoken critic of museums like the Pitt Rivers and British museums’ history of imperialism and colonialism. The museum also has a few displays that acknowledge that many of the artifacts were stolen, and people who donated to the collection believed in racial eugenics. That being said, I think the Pitt Rivers display is almost destructive. By providing little to no context in labels of most of the displays, it really takes away from the cultural, religious, and historical significance of a lot of the objects they have there. They even keep on some of the labels with harmful language that you would never imagine to see in a museum today.

62

Crosswalks, Or The Lack Thereof In London

I was undoubtedly shocked at the lack of crosswalks in such a metropolitan city like London. While the tube is a fantastic and convenient way of getting around the city, the actual walking component was much different than I imagined it would be. There was a large shortage of actual crosswalks, I only counted 11 on the entire trip. Crosswalk being a part of the road where pedestrians have the right of way, that does not have a button to stop traffic at a light to cross. While London has a fair amount of those types of crossings, they give you a very short amount of time compared to American crosswalks to cross, as short as 10-15 seconds. To put it frankly, they are not accessible. If you were in a wheelchair, crutches, or had a disability that prevented you from crossing at the speed most people do, it would be extremely

difficult to actually get all of the way across the road. I read a little bit about it, and apparently the time you have allotted to cross the street was implemented in mind for able-bodied college students, but for some reason still has not been changed over the years. There are many different crosswalks where this is absolutely no signal for cars to stop, it just has a simple message for pedestrians: “Look Right”. Oftentimes when I was walking across these crossings cars would come flying right in front of me, and I would definitely describe myself as a cautious walker. As shocked as I was all trip about this situation, I figured it was probably in my head and I was exaggerating how bad it was. However, after getting home I did some research and found the “London Living Streets” movement which is all about making London more walker friendly and accessible, and they argue many of the points I have stated earlier. As good as the public transportation is in London, it is soured by the accessibility issues permeating throughout the city, and London needs to do better!

63

Grant is a second year student at KU, majoring in Environmental Studies and Music Composition. He enjoys organizing work on campus and is involved with multiple environmental and music student organizations. Grant’s favorite part of London was taking walks along the Thames to get to know the heart of London and many of its districts.

NEXT STOP: CLEAN CITIES

Favorite Museum: Tate Modern

64
NATURAL BEAUTY IN UNNATURAL SETTINGS WHEN THE TUBES STRIKE Top 5 Experiences: 1. Visit A New Café Every Day! 2. The British Library 3. Portabello Road 4. Taking A Long Walk Along The Thames 5. Reporting My Strathmore Jam To Customs Purchased Two Books 65

Clean Cities

Traveling to London was my first experience abroad without the haze of childhood hanging over every memory in my uber-soft and undeveloped baby brain. Within the United States though, I have visited plenty of cities around the country, and of course, made regular trips to our very own Kansas City. But these places gave me a false sense of what a city must be. In all of my not-tooworldly travels, I have been led to believe that all cities must be dirty. Why is that? Well perhaps it’s because most American cities have a pretty solid reputation for being trashy, full of litter, and occasionally, infested with rats. But as I stepped foot out of our coach and onto the London sidewalks, I was pleased to be greeted by a shiny clean slab of London street tile. And As I looked down the road, I saw no litter. I just saw people, cars, and well, the street. All of my trip, I kept taking peaks into the cracks and corners of the city, looking for trash. In reality, I struggled to find trash cans nearly as much as I struggled to find signs of trash itself. All of my searching for litter was to no avail. Instead I got to enjoy a nearly sparkling city with unsettlingly few trash cans. So what is the secret to keeping this city so clean?

Well, I think there are many ingredients that mix together to create such a clean city environment. But before I outline what my minimal research and hunches have to offer, I will also say that New York and Kansas City are my primary comparisons to draw upon, which are not exactly beacons of cleanliness. So take my assumptions with a good helping of salt, and please do not confuse this for a simplification of US vs. European cities. I am only referencing London, and a select number of US cities I have had the honor of visiting.

So here is my ingredient list to the secret sauce of clean cities:

1. Adequate funding for street cleaning services.

2. Effective street cleaning provided by said services.

3. A population of individuals who care about the presentation of their city and the use of their social leverage to ensure newcomers do not come to believe that litter is the norm.

I’ll admit, this isn’t a very inspiring list and it contains few surprises. But maybe it isn’t as hard to explain as it seems. In a city full of tourists, there is no way to ensure that the social norm of the city is to keep it clean and avoid litter, but employing a cleaning service that makes regular passes and does an effective job despite all of the nooks and crannies of the city, is likely to create an atmosphere that frowns upon litter and improper waste disposal. And now that a cleaning service has set the tone for this atmosphere, the population plays its role in modeling clean behaviors and keeping litter off of the streets. And no matter how hard it got to find a rubbish bin, the

66

social expectation of maintaining the cleanliness of the city held strong. One afternoon in central London, nine of us took a pit stop in a Krispy Kreme to grab a dozen donuts as a group and provide Steven with his first experience of the most well renowned American donut. And after sitting down and taking down the dozen handily with our group of weary travelers, we couldn’t find the rubbish bin inside of the store. And as one of us was about to cave and walk out of the store with an empty box for a dozen donuts, I began to panic with a vivid image of us passing around this empty box and even taking it home with us on the tubes as we waited to find a large enough rubbish receptacle for it. So I took a deep breath, looked directly behind all of us and found our trash can in the Krispy Kreme. In a matter of days, this Londoner mindset of a clean city had fully infected me, and I was prepared to suffer a day of holding onto our rubbish before I ever considered littering. And honestly, that is a world I wouldn’t mind living in. So even if London is a bit backwards with its left side of the road driving and its preference for sparkling water over tap water, it has its rubbish in the right place.

Two Truths And A Lie

1. I took two jars of jam from the Strathmore and then declared them at customs.

2. I tried a flat white at every café I visited, and my favorite was at Gloucester Station.

3. I escaped jet lag entirely by pulling my first all-nighter from Kansas to London.

See Page 97 for Answer Key

Natural Beauty in Unnatural Settings

One of the great perks of taking a trip, or holiday if you will, in London, is all of the free museums. These massive buildings are full of history, culture, and beauty. But whose history? Whose culture? And what beauty? One of the primary thoughts I had following my visit to The British Museum, was that there was not much British history found there at all. But no museum struck me more than the Oxford University Museum of Natural History. On and before our trip, we had many discussions about the acquisition of historical objects and their damaging uses in museum settings. At the back of the Oxford Museum of Natural History was the Pitt Rivers Museum, filled wall to wall with cultural artifacts, taken with or without the consent of the communities to which they belonged. One of the most egregious offenses to these communities was the broad groupings of their objects into display cases and all of the untold implications that came with these groupings. Calling one display the “Lutes of Asia” both oversimplifies the cultural role of the instruments being shown and groups them with a system that does not apply to the communities that created them. But I am not an Anthropology student, I am an Environmental Studies student, so I would like to examine the similar issues exhibited by these displays as they present themselves in the Oxford Museum of Natural History’s exhibits of the natural world. Just as the cultural objects shown in the Pitt Rivers museum are specific to certain communities and parts of the world, so are each of the species showcased in the Museum of Natural History. There are rows of beetles and ants pinned onto boards, a line of antlered

animals standing in bony rows, and most dazzlingly, a rainbow of butterflies displayed in balls of color. In this single room, stands a greater level of biodiversity of fauna than is likely to exist in any other human landscape or most natural settings that border human civilization. But I don’t believe this rainbow of butterflies should exist as it does, nor should all of these insects be lined up in rows upon rows for their exoskeletons to be examined. And while it may occur to someone, yes, these colors go together, or all butterflies are butterflies, most of these species would never have encountered each other in their natural setting. It is estimated that there are 17,500 different species of butterflies, and only around 60 exist in the UK alone. The number of butterflies and colors shown in this image far outnumber the amount of species native to the country they are being displayed in. And in a museum as old as 1858, it is likely that many of these species have gone extinct in a world ravaged by colonial and capital expansion that have given way to anthropogenic climate change.

68

So the first step to repairing this extractive relationship to scientific processes is to address the issues and take action to avoid further damage. In social and cultural contexts, this can look like repatriation. But returning a long dead butterfly to the spaces it once flitted over is not the same. Instead, educate people on the importance of biodiversity and the factors that threaten it. One amazing thing about the Oxford Museum of Natural History is that it does talk about extinction, biodiversity loss, and climate change. But, where does one find these exhibits? Upstairs in stuffy walkways and in back rooms with no labels. So the next step can be as easy as properly labeling rooms and bringing these important topics to the more accessible and desirable spaces in the museum. I won’t pretend to have all of the answers though. I’m simply here to advocate that as we begin to sort out the confusing tricky issues of colonial acquisition of culturally important objects and their necessary repatriation, we should also examine our relationships with the natural world and how we treat our non-human neighbors in both natural and academic settings.

Most disappointing part of the trip?

My greatest disappointment was the Natural History Museum. It was almost entirely for children.

Most American or touristy thing that you did?

We attempted to split a check at a restaurant and had to do all of the math ourselves and just ended up overpaying when we probably should have used Venmo.

One thing you wish you had time for but didn’t?

I wish I had gone to Greenwich and the Canary Wharf

69

When the Tubes Strike

In most Social Studies courses in high school, students will cover topics of civil unrest at some point. And often, this will include talking about strikes. But in the United States, with our weaker unions and lack of support for social systems, we are not very well acquainted with what an active strike looks and feels like. But London is no stranger to this experience, and on Wednesday, March 15th, 2023, neither was I. In fact, all of us London Reviewers with our Oyster passes for all tubes in zones 1 and 2, suddenly found our newfound public transportation knowledge to be both inadequate and unhelpful in the midst of a tube strike.

In most of Europe, unions are much stronger and provide far more support for working communities than what we might find in the US. These stronger unions are also accompanied by positive and intentional relationships with the government so that strikes are organized in a way that provides inconvenience but not complete

devastation when they occur. So while our Oyster Cards were not getting us anywhere on the tubes, we were still able to use buses, assuming they weren’t entirely full of true Londoners already. This particular strike occurred on Budget Day, in which provisions to working conditions were to be passed and put into action. These provisions were said to be “threats to working conditions and pensions” for workers. Though the government requested that the strike be called off, members of the Transport for London Union voted overwhelmingly in favor of the strike. And honestly, I respect the hustle. Nobody should threaten the working conditions and pensions of these essential workers. But also, what does a foreigner do in London during a tube strike? Explore. When you can’t go underground in one spot and pop up from another, you really begin to connect the pieces of what lies where. Now, those places may not be approachable. There are

70

only so many one hour walks that one can take in a day, but the places you choose to go will be far more intentional.

After a long morning and afternoon in the Natural History Museum and the V&A, it came time to travel solo to a different part of London to visit a café and meet up with a friend. And I had to do so with no tubes nor internet connection, my biggest challenge of the trip was at hand. So I took some screenshots of my directions, and I made my way there. And after 45 minutes of speed walking and hoping I wouldn’t get pick pocketed, I arrived at my destination. And honestly, it was the most rewarding experience of the whole journey. For a moment there, I think I may have even looked like a true Londoner. So when the tubes strike, don’t panic. Take this time to explore on foot, and celebrate functioning unions and the protection of workers rights!

Favorite tube line? Circle

Did you ride the new Elizabeth Line? No

What was the most “Londoner” experience you had?

My favorite Londoner experience was taking a solo journey on Tube Strike day. This 45 minute walk was the most stressful and rewarding part of my journey as I navigated the city with neither Tubes nor internet connection.

What’s the weirdest lingo you encountered?

The Tube station called Goodge Street Station had me giggling every time I heard it.

71

Jillian is a first year student at KU studying Political Science and minoring in Spanish. She is also part of the LEAD Program. She loves to travel, read thrillers, and go on walks! Her favorite part of London was visiting The Tate Modern and The Victoria & Albert Museum.

NEXT STOP:

THE CHINESE CERAMICS COLLECTION VOTED MOST LIKELY TO GET LOST IN A MUSEUM

72

THE ROYAL JEWELS

CONVERSATIONS IN LONDON

Top 5 Experiences:

1. The V&A

2. The Tate Modern

3. Walking Around By Kensington Palace

4. The Pubs

5. Camden Market

73

The Chinese Ceramics Collection

The British Museum has a collection of over eight million artifacts. The Chinese ceramics collection consists of 1700 Chinese ceramics. The group of vases dates back from 200 A.D. the early 1900s. The Chinese ceramics were donated by Sir Percival David, a member of the Sassoon banking family.

The vases had such intricate details. Through the glass, and in the pictures you can see the dark blue highlighted accents. The vases were used as many tools, for example the vases were used for flowers, decoration, and eating instruments. Blue, white, and yellow are common colors that are seen in traditional Chinese ceramics.

The collection of the blue Chinese ceramics was surreal. All of the vases were alluring, with enticing qualities. I was thrilled to hear that the British Museum had a collection of Chinese Ceramics especially since I have had a fascination with the beautiful vases. As I was walking through the exhibit I got chills since the intricate blue vases have an abundantly rich history. The history within itself dates back thousands of years. The lavish vases were a highlight, and the Sir Percival David collection deserves to be recognized.

74

The Royal Jewels

Yes, I indeed went to the Victoria and Albert Museum a total of four times while I was in London. During the trip I indeed did recommend the V&A to a total of four cohorts. And I did indeed walk through the V&A’s superb gift shop a total of four times. The V&A had many collections surrounding textiles, fashion, and jewelry. The jewel collection at the V&A was jaw-dropping especially since it definitely was an accumulation of millions of dollars. The exhibit of the jewels allowed me to be a child in a candy shop. The picture that shows the circle was a diagram of gems, and classified by type of jewels. The inner-circle was diamonds and it led to as far as pearls. The exhibit

consisted of crowns, necklaces, rings, earrings, bracelets, and even brooches. In the exhibit, Queen Victoria, wife to Prince Albert, displayed her famous crown of Sapphires and diamonds. The crown is only a small portion of all of the remarkable history of jewels within the assortment. The jewels located in The V&A is another grand, and precious collection that the museums located in London highlight. Overall, the V&A is a 10/10 museum. And I agree with Mary– it is the best museum gift shop.

75

Personal Conversations

Conversations while in Oxford:

I felt the most normal to my peers while I was in Oxford. Although very different from the University of Kansas, the campus and people were kind and warm toward the younger generation. A group of us went to the Oxford covered market. While we were all scavenging for the best place to eat, I saw a small sandwich shop hidden by fresh fish smells. In this small little hut there were two people chatting. I opened the door in hopes to find a delicious meal. I ordered a Diet Coke and a ham & cheese sandwich on fresh baked bread. While the lady was making my sandwich, we began to talk. She asked if I was studying at Oxford… I felt honored that she assumed I was an Oxford student. Anyways, she told me her name was Jennifer and she helps her husband run the sandwich shop. The conversation I had in Oxford was sweet and kind. And yes, she was amused; I was from the middle of the United States.

Conversations while walking the street:

Stereotype: Americans are loud and obnoxious. Americans can be rowdy. I did notice the looks we received while walking around the streets of London. On the street there were no conversations, everyone had a destination, and they were focused on getting to their location. The louder our group was, the more looks we received.

Conversations with the worker in Jakob’s:

The first day of London a big group of us went to Jakob’s. This was an Armenian-Persian restaurant. When leaving we were stopped, and recognized as being Jayhawks! And this is how the conversation went…

Worker at Jakob’s: “Where are you guys from”

Jill: “We are from Kansas”

W: “My cousin is from Kansas, and he attends the University of Kansas!”

J: “We are students at the University of Kansas, where is your cousin from!?”

W: “A place in Kansas that sounds like California starts with an ‘O’.”

J: “Hmmm, I am from Overland Park which is close to Lawrence… Olathe?

W: “Yes, his name is Jude, and he is from Olathe…”

J: “Wait, I know a Jude from Olathe. Do you have his Snapchat?” [looks at snapchat bitmoji]

J: “Oh, that is not Jude Schnieders from Olathe.”

76

Ask The London Reviewers

Favorite Tube Line?

Total: 92 Books Bought?

Average: 4

Favorite Museum?

Did You Ride The New Elizabeth Line?

Where Was Your Layover On The Way There?

Where Was Your Layover On The Way Back From London?

77

Jude is a second year student at KU majoring in English and minoring in Theatre. They are a proud executive member of the improv team, Safety Goggles On. Their dream is to be a comedy writer for television. Their favorite part of London was getting lost in markets, museums, and parks. That isn’t to mention the many, many cups of tea they enjoyed.

NEXT STOP: FIVE WAYS LONDON IS JUST BETTER THAN AMERICA

BEST EXHIBIT: BROOCH ROOM

78

BEST FOOD ON THE TRIP

MY QUEST TO FIND FUNNY LITTLE GUYS ODE TO

LONDON
Top 5 Experiences:
1. British Museum
2. Oxford
3. National Gallery
4. West End Theatre
5. Bookstores
79

Five Ways London is Just Better than America

1) Parks and Greenery

Whoever designed the concrete hellscape known as New York City probably said to themself, “Oh, I guess we should put big park in the middle so people can breathe. Job well done!” That would never fly in London. While London does have a famous, grand park at its center— Hyde Park—you can’t walk ten feet without coming across some form of greenery. Every few blocks is home to a residential garden, and almost every building is decorated with hanging plants. What’s more, you can’t walk into a shop district without finding at least one flower shop—even the tube has its own underground flower shops. So, if you plan on living in London, just know that you can breathe easy.

book, and no wonder with all the bookstores on every corner. As it turns out, there is joy to be found in presenting quality items to the public.

3) Museums and Theatre

The MoMA is one of the most famous museums in New York City for featuring works such as Van Gogh’s Starry Night. Of course, in order to see this masterpiece, adults are expected to pay a $25 fee. In comparison, seeing Van Gogh’s Sunflowers at the National Gallery is absolutely free. Not only that, but every single museum I visited—whether it be the British museum featuring the Rosetta Stone, or the quirky Science Museum—was likewise free. Where American museums reserve art for the wealthy, London encourages art and enrichment for all. Likewise, London has one of the largest theatre scenes in the world. Not only that, but their world-renowned shows have relatively

2) Marketplaces and Bookstores

When I think of shopping in America, I think of strip malls containing every cheap luxury—god forbid something sustainable or enriching makes its way onto the market. Meanwhile, London proudly displays tented markets with individual businesses of antiques, fresh fruits and vegetables, and books on books on books. I don’t remember a single time I was on the tube without seeing someone with an open

cheap tickets available. For example, I was able to see Mama Mia for only 18 pounds (I had to kneel the whole time because I was so high up, but still, what a steal!). I likewise saw To Kill a Mockingbird with good seats for a third of the price I would have paid in New York. This isn’t to say that I’m more worried about being a penny-pincher than I am about supporting the arts, but rather that I was impressed a wider range of options was available for a wider audience.

4) Transportation and Walkability

Standstill traffic, cramped crowds, and ratinfested subways are as much hallmarks of New York City as the Empire State Building. But what if I told you there was a world where a city could be

80

walkable, efficient, and clean? When I used the tube for the first time, I was amazed by how easy it was to navigate by google maps, or even by the signs alone. Not only that, but I was never made to wait more than five minutes for a tube to come, and was never on a tube for longer then ten minutes. It felt like I blinked, and I was on the other side of London. The tube’s only flaw was it could sometimes be crowded, and even then I was only met with a chorus of people saying “Sorry!”

Even when the tube was closed, I found that the buses were relatively easy to use, even if I had to wait a little longer for them to come. Once I was on the bus, I was able to sit in the top deck almost every time and enjoy the view of London. Sometimes I’d listen to music and flip through a book.

If I felt like taking the scenic route—which I often did—I found that London was surprisingly

orange yolk, which is a sign of a healthy chicken. Marketplaces displayed fruits and vegetables handpicked by the sellers from local farms.

That isn’t to mention the innumerable restaurants of every culture. The best meal I had in London was at a Lebanese street food restaurant named Hiba Street. The cashier gave us a free sample of baklava as well as an extra helping of their grandmother’s “beautiful, fresh-baked bread.” I indulged in some of the best bread, seasoned chicken, and feta pastries of my life.

Even the cafés seemed to beckon me to stop and smell the roses. Wherever there was a long stretch of sidewalk or a park, there was sure to be a small café for my convenience. One café at the end of a quaint park served some of the best Italian food I’ve ever had.

But of course, the quintessential dining experience of London is the pub, of which there are too many to count. These pubs are not your American scene with loud music, stale food, and lonely singles. The London pubs are a place where everyone comes together to talk over quality food and drink. A gin and ginger beer combo with mac and cheese was one of my most memorable meals. If you want to leave a restaurant feeling like a sleepy kid being carried upstairs while you hear the laughter of the party in the background, the London pub is the place for you.

walkable with plenty of sidewalks, crosswalks, and even walking bridges. I found all kinds of little delights along the way, including tea stalls, dogs in sweaters, and chess tables. What could be better?

5) Cafés, Restaurants, and Pubs

When I think of American food, I think of fast food—factory-made, pre-packaged, frozen and shipped. In contrast, while fast food is still an option in London, it is by no means a staple. While London has a reputation for “bad food”—I for one never tried their famous “beans on toast”—the food was consistently fresh and locally-sourced. For example, I found that all of their eggs had a dark

81

My Quest To Find Funny Little Guys

I took a total of ten trips to museums, from the Science Museum to the National Gallery to the Pitt Rivers. My museum-hating friends asked me what was so compelling about a building full of old objects. Did these items really make me stop and contemplate the meaning of life? For me, the answer is a resounding no. There is only one reason why I love museums: the opportunity to stretch my legs, blast my headphones, and find funny little guys. For me, funny little guys are objects of delight without rhyme or reason. They can only be stumbled upon in the places nowhere else thinks to look. My first funny little guy was at the British Museum, where I discovered a room dedicated to a history of watches. It included a pocket watch in the shape of a skull as well as one in the shape of a dog. For me, this was one of the grandest and silliest thing of all, and I’m baffled that it’s not a main attraction for others. The only thing that topped the watch room was a room full of brooches. One turquoise-stone bird caught my special attention.

I likewise enjoyed wandering the streets and getting “lost” in London. For example, one of my favorite places to walk to was Hyde Park because of all the little delights it had to offer—from green and yellow parakeets to couples chattering in French, there was always something new and wonderful to see. Even in places crammed with buildings, there was always some wonderful adornment to

find. For example, I found not one, but two faces sculpted on the sides of walls. I love being able to walk around historic buildings and find that Europeans centuries ago enjoyed small delights. I love wandering and finding things I might have otherwise never appreciated, that perhaps others might have never appreciated. It feels like a secret world that only opens for those who know where to look. It’s a reminder that the world is absurd, and as much as that absurdity brings tragedy into the world, it also brings small pieces of joy. As Waymond Wang said in Everything Everywhere All at Once: “When I choose to see the good side of things, I’m not being naive. It is strategic and necessary. It’s how I learned to survive through everything.” As small as it may seem, this is the philosophy I wanted to bring to London, and I feel that I succeeded. For your enjoyment, here is a brief collection of my favorite funny little guys:

82

Ode to London

Every Brit says “Sorry!” to prove that they’re polite, but you might as well be roadkill if you don’t look left and right.

Every Brit is classy in their designer coats and gowns. But put on too much adornments, and they risk looking like a clown.

Every Brit is boisterous, extroverted and fun, but only when they’ve spent the last three hours in a pub.

Every Brit believes that their actors are supreme. But give them a Southern accent and they’re sure to cause a scene.

So, every Brit has flaws in many different ways. But one thing is for certain: They still beat the USA.

83

Kat is a junior at KU majoring in English and Italian and minoring in Women’s, Gender, and Sexuality Studies. She is a burgeoning medievalist who hopes to continue her medieval studies at the graduate level and ultimately work as a professor. She enjoys reading, running, and spending time with her cats. Kat’s favorite part of London will always be the medieval exhibits at the Victoria and Albert Museum. In fact, the medieval rooms are the only exhibits Kat has seen at this museum, for she has of yet been unable to pull herself away from the Middle Ages to any other periods.

NEXT STOP:

84
“HERE BEGINS A SHORT TREATISE”: A PILGRIMAGE TO CANTERBURY VOTED MOST LIKELY TO MOVE TO LONDON AND MOST LIKELY TO ATTEND OXFORD

OXFORD AND KING’S COLLEGE

LONDON: MEDIEVAL STUDIES AT BRITISH UNIVERSITIES FROM BOROUGHS TO BEACHES: MY YEAR OF STUDY ABROADS

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Canterbury Cathedral

2. Oxford Uni

3. Radio Rooftop

4. Victoria and Albert Museum

5. British Library

85

“Here Begins A Short Treatise”: A Pilgrimage To Canterbury

Margery Kempe is my Taylor Swift. The Book of Margery Kempe is my Speak Now, Fearless, and Folklore albums wrapped into one huge compilation of Taylor Swift’s most iconic hits. Now, if you aren’t an aspiring medievalist like myself, I imagine that the previous assertions mean nothing to you. This breaks my heart.

Let me introduce you to my favorite leading lady. Margery Kempe, born in 1373, was a secular British mystic known for exuberant expressions of her visions. After having fourteen children (you read that right), she began experiencing visions which she believed could only be from the heavens. After leaving her husband behind, Margery embarked on a series of pilgrimages which occupied the rest of her life. She traversed the UK, made her way to Italy, and met a lot of people along the way— including the Archbishop of Canterbury.

To follow in her footsteps, I made the short journey from London to Canterbury accompanied by Camden and Solomon. After our walking tour through the city, the three of us boarded a train and began our own journey to Canterbury. I hoped to immerse myself in Margey’s world. The thought of walking on the same floors and visiting the same town she frequented was exhilarating. I was finally going to tread the footsteps of the woman who catalyzed my now insatiable

interest in medieval literature. Our trek to the hallowed cathedral, however, was not without its mishaps. After sitting on the train for approximately twenty minutes, we hopped off to change trains at what we thought was the correct station: we were wrong. About two minutes after we stepped off of our train, it began to pull away, and Solomon waved hopelessly at its tail; not unlike a knight waving his soldiers into battle. Alas, we were stuck in a town just outside of London and had no choice but to call an Uber. Now, Margery certainly didn’t have access to Uber, but I imagine that her pilgrimages were not without their inconveniences.

We forged on, and after a forty-five minute ride, we made it to Canterbury! Canterbury is situated quite a bit closer to the coast than London and I felt it in the crisp, fresh breeze blowing in off the sea. I thought about Margery: when did she visit? I’m sure it would have been freezing if she had come in the winter, and in the stone cathedral it had to have been even colder. As we rounded the corner, I was greeted by the two most magnificent cathedral spires I have ever encountered. The Caen stone pillars peeked over the medieval town. Clouds blew forth and back in front of them, making the stony mammoths appear to be playing peek-a-boo. I can only imagine how Margery would have

86

responded to this sight. If visions of Christ made her weep I imagine this architecture had a similar effect. Suddenly, I felt goose pimples develop on my arms and chest, which I initially attributed to the chill; however, I now believe they were from the sheer magnificence of the cathedral.

As I weaved my way through the spiralized town, I thought about all of the pilgrims who visited the cathedral over the centuries. Pilgrims weren’t just fictionalized characters in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. In his prologue, Chaucer writes, “In felaweship and pilgrims were they alle / That toward Canterbury wolden ride.” Pilgrims were real people who often traveled thousands of miles for Christ, establishing communities and friendships. Margery, however, went alone. Fulfilled only by her devotion to something higher, she found her way to Canterbury despite misogyny, ridicule, and the clergy’s castigations. I finally walk through the gates towards the Cathedral, and I can’t help but smile. Although we’re separated by centuries, I take solace in Margery. Ultimately, she was a woman of will. She fought for her independence—both spiritually and bodily—and was uncompromising in her desire to overcome the heartaches of her past and future. She was tenacious, and her commitment to writing about her life is admirable. Standing in the nave of the cathedral, I found myself crying. Not because of religious wonder or architectural admiration, but because of the people who stood there before me. People with lives just as rich and complex as our own. Temporally divided but united by the humane desire to learn, to grow, and to thrive. When Margery was asked about her weeping, she replied, “Sir, you shall wish some day that you had wept as sorely as I.” And trusty readers, I did just that.

Una Romanza Italiana!

I went on a date. A really terrible, no-good, very bad date. He was Italian. I study Italian. He swooned. I swerved. We met at a restaurant. I had been reading all day and decided I needed a break, so I found the nearest Italian restaurant, ordered a glass of wine, and prepared myself to relax. As I sat, a man approached me and proceeded to speak in Italian and offer to buy my dinner. We had a conversation, and I learned that he was 28 and from Italy. He seemed sweet enough, and when he asked me if he could take me for drinks with some of his other Italian friends. I agreed, and a short while later we were sitting in a Neapolitan pizza joint just down the street from our hotel. After about ten minutes of talking, I started to get the “ick.” And he definitely wasn’t only 28. When he got up to go to the bathroom, I ran. Literally ran the four blocks back to our hotel. As I sprinted, I got a phone call from him on WhatsApp. I panic-blocked. Shortly after, I got another call from WhatsApp - this time from his friend. I panic-blocked her, too. Alas, my dream of falling in love with an Italian, moving to a villa in Siena, and basking in the Tuscan sun were quashed. At least I got a meal out of it.

87

Oxford and King’s College London: Medieval Studies at British Universities

The London Review marked my second visit to England within ten months, and as I approach the end of my undergraduate career, I have resolved myself to do my postgraduate work in the UK. Therefore, prior to embarking across the pond once again, I set up meetings with gracious archivists at Oxford, and brilliant, women medievalists at King’s College London. I hope to do my master’s and eventually Ph.D. work in medieval studies, and given Britain’s rich medieval history, I can think of no better place to situate myself within the academy.

On our third full day in the UK, I hopped on an earlymorning train, and after extensive delays, I was on my way to Oxford. I had two meetings scheduled that day: the first was with Martin Kauffmann, the head of early and rare collections at the Bodleian library, and Professor Nicholas Perkins, professor of late-medieval English poetry (and a Chaucerian at heart!); and the second was with archivist Matthew Holford. As I sat in the lobby of the Weston library sipping my steaming tea–which I spilled as my hands shook with nerves–I was overcome with a strange sense of comfort surrounded by the books which

will inevitably shape my future.

Listening to Dr. Kauffmann, Dr. Holford and Professor Perkins discuss their work both inspired and awed me: as established scholars, they know exactly what it takes to make it in the world of medieval studies. The work they’re doing is important, albeit infrequently recognized. Despite this, they proceed with their scholarship undeterred.

If you’ve never been to Oxford, my description of the university will most certainly fail to do it justice. The University of Oxford is old. Extremely old. So old, in fact, that evidence of teaching on the grounds dates to approximately 1096 A.D. Oxford was not always recognized as one of the most prestigious academic institutions in the world, however. Around 1209, disputes between university personnel and Oxford townspeople erupted, and many academics were forced north. Even today, evidence of conflict can be seen in building facades. During World War II, nearly 4,000 bombs were dropped in Oxfordshire; thus, the sheer number of manuscripts that have survived over centuries is astonishing.

88

After two lovely meetings at Oxford, I pivoted to King’s College London (KCL) where I met with Professors Julia Crick and Sarah Salih. King’s is located on the Strand, right next to the Thames and just a few minutes walk from the Palace of Westminster. Because the university is so centrally-located, the campus itself is spread throughout London. The English department, however, is located just adjacent to Somerset House–the building which stores public records including birth, marriage, and death certificates. Somerset House is built atop a Tudor palace belonging to the Duke of Somerset; therefore, KCL’s campus is rich with an underground network of medieval ruins. In fact, the underbelly of contemporary London is home to thousands of medieval buildings and artifacts. Modern London has essentially been built atop medieval London, making it one of the most perfect places in the world to study medieval literature. During my meeting with professors Salih and Crick, we discussed topics ranging from medieval gender and sexual politics to contemporary movements to suppress the free acquisition of knowledge (think book-banning). Unsurprisingly, the humanities–especially medieval and renaissance studies–are significantly more valued in the United Kingdom than they are in the United States. This is understandable given the relatively recent establishment of the American culture in the face of thousands of years of British history. However, given the field in which I hope to situate myself, studying and working in the UK would grant me the most encompassing opportunities to establish myself as a scholar. Think about all of the literary greats and polemical scholars who have emerged from the UK: Virginia Woolf,

J. R. R. Tolkien, Charles Dickens, Karl Marx, and the Brontë sisters, to name a handful. These scholars were entirely enmeshed in their subject material. They were living with the characters in their books and experiencing the real-life struggles of their fellow Englishmen. Pardon the digression, but if they had worked anywhere else, I have a difficult time believing that they would have been so renowned. Certainly, England has a ghastly history of imperialism and colonialism, but many British authors saw these atrocities as an opportunity to encourage change.

Back to the Middle Ages: nearly all of the universities in the UK support medieval scholars, and this is most certainly not because medieval history is obsolete. The opposite is true. Medieval attitudes reflect contemporary conditions. From misogyny, economic instability, infectious disease, mental health, and racism, people in the middle ages were grappling with many of the same issues which present themselves in 21st-century societies. To neglect the Middle Ages is to neglect powerful insights into contemporary struggles. Whether you find yourself at Oxford, King’s College, or anywhere at all in the United Kingdom, I call on you to stop for a moment, close your eyes, and imagine the world beneath your feet. Bustling markets, tyrannical royals, and sumptuous art rest just below, waiting to be unearthed by scholars and citizens alike who are searching for missing historical pieces. The Sutton Hoo1 hoard was found by accident: what else is out there?

89
1 For more information on Sutton Hoo, please look at the exhibit notes on the British Museum’s digital archives.

From Boroughs to Beaches: My Year of Study Abroads

Alas, the time has come to draw the curtain on my Mary Klayder study abroad tour. Three countries later, I must retire my title of “trifecta candidate” in lieu of the more dignified, yet arguably clunkier, “trifecta finisher.” For those who are unfamiliar with the notion of the “trifecta,” the triangular abstraction consists of three, short study abroad programs: The British Summer Institute (BSI), the Travel Writing and Costa Rica program, and the all-hallowed London Review (the likes of which you’re skimming right now!). Beginning in the summer to the end of the spring semester, I have yet to spend a break absent of a trip with Mary.

Last summer, we set off on our grand expedition across the United Kingdom; in January we scaled the sides of volcanoes in Costa Rica; and in March, we embarked on a peaceful return to the place where it all began: London. Mary’s study abroad programs traversed the course of my entire junior year. In retrospect, I think the penultimate year of my undergraduate degree was defined by these adventures. With each new destination, I met new people and climates, but also new versions of myself, and for

better or worse, left parts of me behind. I began the trifecta as husk: something lost in the wind, sucked dry by the capricious sun, and trampled on by unknowing passersby. By the terminus of the trifecta, I have been polished into a glittering suit of armor occupied by my truest self. To attempt to summarize the significance of these programs would be fraught; alas, I shall try regardless. The only way I can think of approaching an adequate recapitulation of my trifecta is via tube stations. I know, it sounds nonsensical, but stay with me for a moment. The BSI was electrifying, tranquil, and formative at the same time; thus, both the BSI and Costa Rica remind me of King’s Cross St. Pancras station. King’s Cross St. Pancras is home to six tube lines, and is perpetually saturated with people. Yet, even in the midst of chaos one can find tucked away corners and cafes to escape the bustling crowds. One is simultaneously overwhelmed and overconfident whilst navigating King’s Cross St. Pancras. The ceiling is littered with signs, “Circle and District Line” and “This Way Out.” Despite this gaudy signage it is shockingly easy to get lost. On both the BSI and in Costa Rica, meticulously crafted itineraries kept my head

90

above water, but even my timetable couldn’t account for unanticipated emotional departures from the schedule. To find myself, I had to lose myself in the cacophony of the voices screaming at me to quit—telling me that I had been lost for too long to ever find the train which would carry me out of despair. Without even knowing it, by the end of my month in the UK and my two weeks in Costa Rica, I had already boarded the salvation train and emerged into the light. I only realized that I was free as I lay in the soft, sweet-smelling grass on the moors in Haworth and paddled through the Caribbean in Puerto Viejo. Russell Square Tube Station can represent no other program other than the London Review. Russell Square is situated in posh Bloomsbury, the home of the literary set of London. This bookish borough is home to the master of stream-of-consciousness narratives, Virginia Woolf, and the immutable serenity of the hamlet is palpable in the tube station. The station itself is tiny, although it descends shockingly deeply below the earth. The quaintness of the station is steeped in its lobby, which opens wide to a panorama of tall, white buildings against a pervasive earl-grey sky. I’ve never felt rushed in Russell Square—the close-quarters and shoulder shoves of the busier, larger stations are lost here. I know I can take my time here, thoroughly reading the directional signs and taking extra time to make sure I haven’t lost all of my belongings, as is my wont. Russell Square station is slow, and I have time to

think: the London Review was relaxed, and I had time to reflect. My second time across the pond, I found myself unaffected by the insatiable pressure to do everything. I wanted to revel in rather than rush. So I did just that. I strolled through new boroughs, sauntered through the Victoria and Albert Museum, had scintillating meetings at Oxford and King’s College London, and cultivated relationships which I know will endure. On a more metaphysical level, I unearthed a version of myself which was lost in my own kind of blitz. She’s poised but allows herself to break; she’s a thrill-seeker but a homebody at heart; and she’s lost in the constellation of opportunities for a future she never thought she’d have.

Thank you, British Summer Institute, Costa Rica, and the London Review. Thank you, Mary, for the hugs, and for harboring my anxieties and my ambitions alike. Thank you, London, for sheltering me in your mist and weaving the Thames into my heart. See you very soon – cheers!

91

Kennedy is a first-year student at KU majoring in Film Production and minoring in Theatre. She enjoys reading, listing to music and podcasts, and of course, watching films. After obtaining her Bachelor’s degree, she will continue to graduate school to pursue editing in film. Her favorite part of London was shopping, especially for books. Her least favorite part was packing the books in her suitcase to take home.

NEXT STOP:

KANSAS AND LONDON: A TALE OF TWO CITIES

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Lizzo 2. Tattoo 3. Bravissimo 4. Borough Market 5. Oxford 92

GOOD AS HELL: LIZZO LIGHTS UP

LONDON’S O2

ACADEMY

Purchased Twenty Books One

A PERMANENT SOUVENIR:

COMMEMORATING MY UK VISIT WITH A

TATTOO

93

Kansas And London: A Tale Of Two Cities

The characteristics and ways of life of Kansas and London are vastly different from one another. London is a global city in the southeast of England, whereas Kansas is a landlocked state in the Midwest. As a result, their geographies, climates, cultures, and lifestyles are unique.

According to a report by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), Kansas has a primarily continental climate with warm summers and icy winters. In contrast, London gets mild winters and chilly summers because of its proximity to the water. The local populace leads quite a variety of lives and partakes in quite a variety of activities due to the various climates.

The people of Kansas are friendly, outgoing, have a strong sense of community, and have a laidback lifestyle. According to the website for Kansas Tourism, farming has a long and distinguished agricultural heritage and has a significant economic impact on the state. In addition, because the state’s population are huge fans of American football, baseball, and basketball, sports are also essential to the way of life in the region.

On the other hand, London is a city with a rich history, culture, and food that is also varied and international. According to a report from the Office for National Statistics (ONS), London is the most ethnically diverse city in the world. In addition, tourists swarm to the city’s nightlife because of the well-known specialty, design, and music scenes. Additionally, London and Kansas both employ measurement systems in very distinct ways. The imperial measurement system is used in the United States, whereas the metric system is used in the United Kingdom. According to BBC News, miles are still widely used for informal distance measurements in the United Kingdom, including in London.

Despite these qualifications, both London and Kansas furnish occupants and guests the same with interesting encounters. According to the description that can be found on the website of Kansas Tourism, “Kansas offers something for everyone, from scenic vistas to lively cultural events.” In contrast,“London is a city that never rests, with such a great

amount to see and complete 24 hours per day, seven days every week,” expresses the Visit London site. In conclusion, although Kansas and London are worlds apart, they each possess their own distinct appeal and culture and offer a wealth of opportunities for exploration and discovery. As American essayist Sarah Vowell once said, “Kansas isn’t simply flatter than a pancake; it’s flatter than a tortilla. However, it is an ideal horizontal landscape for an agoraphobe like me. That sensation of being able to see miles away excites me.”

In a similar vein, British comedian and actor Eddie Izzard claims, “London is my favorite place in the world. I adore the people, culture, and history.”

Bibliography

BBC News. (2015, June 15). Why does the UK still use miles? Retrieved from https://www.bbc.com/ news/magazine-33133718

Eddie Izzard Quotes. (n.d.). Retrieved from https:// www.brainyquote.com/authors/eddie-izzard-quotes Kansas Tourism. (n.d.). Kansas At A Glance. Retrieved from https://www.travelks.com/aboutkansas/kansas-at-a-glance/ National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). (n.d.). Climate of Kansas. Retrieved from https://www.weather.gov/ict/climate_KS Office for National Statistics (ONS). (2021, March 24). London: Ethnic group, religion and country of birth. Retrieved from https://www. ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/ populationandmigration/populationestimates/ bulletins/annualmidyearpopulationestimates/ mid2020ethnicgroupreligionandcountryofbirth Vowell, S. (n.d.). Sarah Vowell Quotes. Retrieved from https://www.brainyquote.com/authors/sarah-vowellquotes

Visit London. (n.d.). Welcome to London. Retrieved from https://www.visitlondon.com/

94

Good As Hell: Lizzo Lights Up London’s O2 Academy

As a music devotee and an admirer of new encounters, I was excited to discover that Lizzo, the shocking American vocalist and rapper, was planning to perform live in London during my most memorable excursion abroad. My trip was even more special because I had the opportunity to attend the live performance as well as explore a new city.

Even with the enthusiasm of seeing Lizzo perform live, the day of the show was set apart by a travel strike that impacted a few transportation choices in the city, such as the underground transportation and the bus system. Because of this, getting to the O2 Arena was difficult, and many fans were concerned that they might miss the show.

Alexis, Ladazhia, and I left dinner at Wagamama early to catch an Uber to the show. We left at 7 because Lizzo was to take the stage at 9. We did not get an Uber until 7:30, with how busy it was, and the 5-mile drive to the O2 took almost an hour and a half. We barely made it in time.

For many other fans, including us, the transit strike proved to be a significant obstacle.

Some people had to walk long distances or take alternative forms of transportation, such as taxis or trying to catch a bus, which added to the stress and expense of the evening.

Regardless, I could hardly contain my excitement on the concert day. The energy in the air was palpable as the venue was overflowing with Lizzo fans from all over London. The performance had everyone buzzing with anticipation and enthusiasm.

Lizzo entered the stage after the lights went out, and the audience cheered. She was dressed in a sparkling bodysuit and a flowing cape. The crowd went wild as she sang the popular song “Good As Hell.” I was so in the moment that I joined the rest of the group in dancing and singing.

Lizzo’s contagious energy and charisma kept the audience interested and entranced throughout the performance. She sang all of her well-known songs, such as “Truth Hurts,” “Juice,” and “Cuz I Love You,” in addition to a few lesser-known ones,

showcasing her extraordinary musical versatility. One of the most critical parts of the performance was when Lizzo got up in the middle of the song to show her followers that she trusted them. She told everyone to love and accept themselves no matter what the rest of the world may think. We applauded and appreciated her speech since it inspired us both to love ourselves and to be positive.

Regrettably, we had to leave the concert before it was over in order to make it home in a fair amount of time. Just before we left, Lizzo praised the crowd for a lovely evening and said she would return to London soon. Cheers and applause exploded throughout the space. I will always cherish my once-in-a-lifetime opportunity in London to witness Lizzo play live. Even though the transit strike presented some difficulties, the concert’s enthusiasm and intensity made it all worthwhile. I’ll always remember the real adventure of witnessing Lizzo perform live for the first time in a new place amid the mayhem of the transit strike. I was inspired and appreciative of the chance to spend a joyous, exciting, and hopeful evening.

95

A Permanent Souvenir: Commemorating My UK Visit With A Tattoo

Getting a tattoo in a new country can be a fun way to remember a trip or a change in one’s life. In any case, it’s essential to investigate as needs be prior to getting inked, as various nations have different social perspectives towards tattoos.

“In the UK, tattoos are now more mainstream and socially acceptable than ever, “ BBC Travel states. However, there are still some areas of society, like the business world, where tattoos may be viewed negatively.

After you’ve done your homework and learned a lot about how people in your area feel about tattoos, it’s time to start looking for a tattoo artist.

According to tattoo artist Hannah Calavera, you can find a good tattoo artist in the UK by using social media. Instagram accounts are utilized by numerous craftsmen to flaunt their work and associate with clients.

It is vital to consider the tattoo craftsman’s degree of involvement and mastery while going with a choice. “When it comes to custom work, experience is especially important,” according to noted tattoo

artist Liam Sparkes.” You must ensure that the artist you select is skilled in design and can produce something that will last for a long time.”

Once you’ve found a tattoo artist you like, talking about your design is essential. “Bring in any reference images or sketches you may have,” said tattoo artist Emily Alice Johnston. “If you give your artist as much information as possible, they will better understand what you want.”

It’s important to be aware of cultural differences before getting a tattoo. “In the UK, it’s common for artists to take breaks during the tattooing process to rest their hands or give the client a break,” noted tattoo artist Alex Bage. “It’s also common to talk to the client or listen to music to help them relax.”

At last, when your tattoo is done, taking great consideration of it is significant. “Tattoos are basically an open wound,” said tattoo artist Ant Dickinson. “You need to take care of them properly.” Follow your tattoo artist’s instructions for aftercare, and don’t soak it for too long in water or expose it to direct sunlight. In conclusion, getting a tattoo in the United

Kingdom or any foreign country can be a unique and unforgettable experience; in any case, it’s essential to do your research, pick a genuine tattoo artist, and be prepared for social differences. You can, however, get a stunning tattoo that will always serve as a reminder of your trip with careful planning and an open mind.

Bibliography

Bage, Alex. “Tattoo etiquette: What to expect when getting inked.”

Evening Standard. 29 October 2021, https://www. standard.co.uk/ insider/tattooetiquette-whatto-expectwhen-gettinginked-b969583. html. Accessed 30 March 2023. BBC Travel.

“The cultures where tattoos are still taboo.”

13 September 2018, https://www.bbc.com/travel/ story/20180912-the-cultures-where-tattoos-are-stilltaboo. Accessed 30 March 2023.

Calavera, Hannah. “How to find a good tattoo artist.” The Independent. 18 January 2022, https://www. independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/tattoo-artist-ukinstagram-social-media-b1997907.html. Accessed 30 March 2023.

Dickinson, Ant. “How to take care of your new tattoo.” Men’s Health UK. 29 April 2021, https://www. menshealth.com/uk/style/grooming/a34460475/howto-take-care-of-your-new-tattoo/. Accessed 30 March 2023.

Johnston, Emily Alice. “Tips for getting your first tattoo.” GQ. 19 July 2021, https://www.gq-magazine. co.uk/fashion/article/tips-for-getting-your-first-tattoo. Accessed 30 March 2023.

Sparkes, Liam. “How to choose a tattoo artist.” Time Out London. 12 September 2018, https://www. timeout.com/london/things-to-do/how-to-choose-atattoo-artist. Accessed 30 March 2023.

96

Tise Two Truths And A Lie

1. I attended the first play I’ve ever been to.

2. I went on a street art tour and saw some amazing graffiti.

3. I tried to order fish and chips at a fancy restaurant and got laughed at by the waiter.

Jill Two Truths And A Lie

1. I went to the V & A a total of 4 times.

2. I stole a total of 4 jams.

3. I tried a bean & cheese crumpet

Kennedy Two Truths And A Lie

1. I spent over $200 on books.

2. There were no cats on the flight out of Chicago.

3. I got sick from an icky kid on the plane ride home.

Sydney Two Truths And A Lie

1. I cried on the first night because I was homesick.

2. I screamed when I almost got run over by a car.

3. A local told me to hit children with my purse.

Two Truths And A Lie Answer Key

Aarthi:

1. True 2. True 3. Lie

Daniel:

1. Lie 2. True 3. True

Elizabeth:

1. Lie 2. True 3. True

Ethan:

1. Lie 2. True 3. True

Grant:

1. True 2. Lie 3. True

Jill: 1. True 2. Lie 3. True

Kennedy: 1. True 2. Lie 3. True

Ladazhia:

1. Lie 2. True 3. True

Sam:

1. Lie 2. True 3. True

Sammi: 1. True 2. True 3. Lie

Solomon:

1. Lie 2. True 3. True

Steven: 1. Lie 2. True 3. True

Sydney:

1. True 2. Lie 3. True

Tise:

1. True 2. True 3. Lie

97

Ladazhia is a senior graduating in May 2023. She studies Strategic Communications in the Journalism school, and she is pursuing a minor in Leadership Studies. Ladazhia is the president of the Journalism Student Ambassador program as well as the Public Relations Student Society of America here at KU. In her free time, Ladazhia enjoys hanging out with friends, going to the gym, and trying out new activities. Ladazhia’s favorite thing to do while in London was attend Dopamine Land, where she was able to let her inner child come out to play.

NEXT STOP: FEELING 22

FAVORITE EXHIBIT: JEWEL ROOM AT THE V&A

98

ONE OF AMERICA’S GREATEST MISTAKES

TRAVELING WITH STRANGERS

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Camden Town

2. Saatchi Gallery

3. Dopamine Land

4. Heaven Night Club

5. O2 for Lizzo

99
VOTED MOST LIKELY TO BECOME A TRAVEL INFLUENCER

Feeling 22

Happy birthday to you. Happy birthday to you! Happy birthday dear Ladazhia. Happy birthday to you!

This March, I celebrated my 22nd birthday in London. Since 22 isn’t a prime birthday, and it’s one of those in between years, it didn’t really feel like I needed to go all out for it. Nevertheless, I had tons of things to get through during my trip, and I was determined to experience many firsts in the Square Mile.

Feeling 22 Bucket List

Study abroad in London

Go to Europe’s ‘time square’, Piccadilly Circus

Go to a Lizzo concert

Find out which Hogwarts house I belong to

Fit eleven outfits and essentials in a carry-on suitcase + personal bag.

Let my inner child out by doping up on dopamine

Get solo experiences in a big city

Fill a bubble waffle with sweetness

Take a ten+ hour flight one way

Go to SkyGarden

Use an underground train as my sole means of transportation

Try a beer

Accidentally call Great Britain Pounds ‘Euros’ every chance that I get.

Go to AMAZE and the pancake bakery

Order fish & chips, although I don’t enjoy fish.

Go to at least four museums in one week

Eat salami, croissants, and Nutella for breakfast seven days in a row

Say “pardon” instead of “excuse me”

Go to Little Venice in North London

Shop at a street market

Go through an alley at night (the shortcut)

Almost get hit by a car every time I cross the street

Mind the gap

Go to Heaven- the night club, of course

TURN 22

As noted, there were just a few things that I didn’t have enough time to experience. My impromptu events made up for the loss, and in the end it was all worthwhile. I don’t know about you, but I’m feeling twenty-two.

100

One of America’s Greatest Mistakes

BLIMEY! I wish I had been required to learn a second language as a child. My short experience in London helped me to see what America is missing out on, and I think that thing is second language requirements. During my time in London, I heard so many different languages being spoken. Some languages were familiar to me, and others I had a harder time placing.

I think it is super interesting that people in other countries speak their native language plus English, yet in America about 78 percent of people speak English only (Dietrich & Hernandez, 2022). With this being said, there’s either too much pride in the English language, or there’s some serious discrepancies between our American school system and some of the other school systems worldwide.

In my experience, learning a second language wasn’t a priority until I began high school. It was my junior year that I was pushed to enroll in foreign language classes, and this left only two years for me to learn a new language as a young adult. If this wasn’t problematic enough, I don’t even recall students having more options of languages to take besides Spanish. Regardless, speaking Spanish was in high demand, so that was the language I embarked on.

Research has shown that the ideal time to learn a language is as a child (Bernoussi, 2021), yet when I was still in primary school, and still in some primary schools today, the requirements to learn a foreign language were

non-existent. It wasn’t until I had the “graduation requirements” talk with my counselor in 2018 that I began thinking about the opportunity. This could have improved in those four years that it has been since I graduated, but I still don’t see students becoming fluent in a secondary language that they began in high school.

If I were to make some suggestions, I would start by saying that English is great, yes, but it should not be the only language we aspire to learn. I feel a second language could be more useful than some of the stages of math that we’re required to take, so we could substitute the language requirement for those. Or, we could begin implementing foreign language courses for younger kids to enroll in. It could also be helpful to have some language immersion activities, because there were very few spaces available for me to practice my new language outside of class.

All in all, naming the disadvantages and lack of resources you get when attending a public school in an urban area is something that I am really passionate about. Had I become even semi-fluent in a second language, I would be able to contribute to a more diverse culture, like London’s. I would be more qualified and more attractive as a job candidate, and I would also be able to hold secret conversations about people who are near me, hehehe.

It is a bit frustrating to not have the same opportunities as others, but I guess this is what Duolingo is for? If you agree, say OUI!

Bibliography

Bernoussi, D. (2021, November 18). Never too late to learn a language: Language classes for mature adults. ICLS. Retrieved April 14, 2023, from https://www.icls.edu/when-is-it-too-late-to-learn-a-language/ Dietrich, S., & Hernandez, E. (2022, August 29). Language use in the United States: 2019. Census.gov. Retrieved April 14, 2023, from https://www.census.gov/library/publications/2022/acs/acs-50.html

101

Traveling With Strangers

Who would have known that traveling with strangers would have been one of the best ways for me to learn about another culture and about myself as well? I found this out only recently, because for the first time in my college journey, I decided to take a leap massive enough to land me in London.

Leading up to the trip, I researched the city A LOT. I watched TikTok and YouTube videos daily, and this helped me get more familiar with London’s vibe. By the end of this research, I had an itinerary so jam-packed that there was no time in between sights for me to take naps or for me to fit in impromptu activities. Additionally, I felt that I knew all there was to see in London.

During the classes before the trip, I found myself gravitating towards the things and to the people that I was used to. I didn’t necessarily want to step out of my comfort zone too much ( I mean, I was already going to a new country!), so I attempted to stick with what I knew. With this being said, I didn’t make many personal connections with my classmates before our journey. I instead observed the different perspectives and personalities from a distance.

Once we got to London, though, the dynamics began to change. My classmates would send their daily itinerary to the group, which began to pique my interest. I still had my packed schedule, so I just listened to my classmates rave about fun sights.

On the first day, I took a solo trip to the Victoria and Albert Museum near our hotel. I knew that I had a lot of ground to cover, and I didn’t want to bother anyone to come along. It didn’t take very long for me to realize that I wasn’t a museum fanatic. With

this being said, I didn’t have a super great time looking at the sculptures. I could appreciate it, though. I ended up walking around V&A for about 30 minutes, many of those spent on my phone. I left the space feeling a little underwhelmed.

Two days later, I continued to go on solo adventures, but in the midst, I overheard Jill talking about what a great experience she had at the V&A. I had a hard time believing that we could have had two entirely

102

different experiences at the same place. “You went to the V&A?” I asked. Jill’s response was so enthusiastic. She talked to me about the African fashion exhibit as well as the jewelry collection. After speaking to Jill, I felt that we saw two different museums, and I wanted to experience it in the same way she did.

On that same day I revisited the museum and I made sure to seek out every room of possible interest to me. With a nowopen mind, I too was able to fall in love with the jewelry exhibit. There were two floors filled with sparkling jewels and there was a spiral staircase in the middle of the room. The lights were dim, so the diamonds grabbed my attention. In one section of the exhibit there was a spiral of more than 50 bright gemstones, in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors. On the opposite side of the room sat a few crowns and even some diamond-encrusted swords. The exhibit was exquisite, and I was only able to witness it after being open to someone else’s perspective. This was interesting to notice, as I am usually not easily moved by persuasion.

All in all, this article is a nod to solo experiences, but truly emphasizes the importance of being open-minded. It didn’t take long for me to ditch the point-by-point itinerary that I had in the beginning and to start living in the moment with the group. I had a few more moments like this one, where I had a different solo experience than I had with the group, and I think this added some razzle-dazzle to my week in London! Thank you, London Review Crew 2023 for making my London experience so amazing! Mind the gap, these strangers quickly turned into friends.

What’s the weirdest lingo you encountered?

“Mind your back”. Apparently this means “behind you, watch out.”

Two Truths And A Lie

1. I watched the Kansas Jayhawks win the March Madness tournament.

2. I went to Dopamine Land and felt true dopamine.

3. I saw an alien and gave them a high five in Camden Town. See

103
Page 97 for Answer Key

Lucas is a freshman biology major on a pre-med track with a journalism minor. He is from Springfield, Missouri, enjoys reading, and being active. His favorite part of visiting England was visiting Oxford.

VOTED MOST LIKELY TO FORGET AN UMBRELLA

Purchased Two Books

NEXT STOP: A CONVERSATION WITH A JAMAICAN MAN

104
BIKING IN LONDON LEFT SIDE 105 Top 5 Experiences: 1. V&A 2. Churchill Bunkers 3. Oxford 4. Westminster Abbey 5. Camden Market

A Conversation with a Jamaican Man

I had been in London for about two hours, and almost all of my London experience had been contained in the magnificent London-Heathrow baggage claim. A portion of the entire London Review, the group flight fliers, stood near the side of the terminal, as some searched the conveyor belt for their highly anticipated checked bags.

A few of us, including myself, had no baggage to claim so we were standing to the side out of the way of the constant flow of people who had successfully found their luggage. After a long while of standing around in boredom, I was thrust into an interaction that I would never forget.

An airport worker came walking by, and we made eye-contact for a split second. He walks up to me and he starts a dialogue that takes me completely aback. He starts talking to me, in his Jamaican accent, about a brochure’s worth of semi-religious life advice. I was caught off guard by this unanticipated conversation with a stranger, but I tried to be civil and receptive to whatever he had to say to me. The first point that he began with was the importance of family. He told me a story about his father disowning him for becoming a Rastaman, and now years later his father became one as well. He told me about how he immigrated to England around 30 years ago and now he has a daughter who is leaving home to go to college in America.

He then started talking about our ancestors, and he told me that I should worship my family above everything else. Specifically, he said my family should be my “god”. I was just nodding my head and letting him talk, but at one point in the conversation I politely said that I appreciate what he was saying, but I am a Christian.

He then went on to explain away the existence of Jesus, because 2,000 years ago the “J” letter did not exist. I didn’t care to start an argument about the evolution of language with this guy who I barely knew, so I just nodded my head and said I understood what he’s saying.

He then tells me my favorite topic he’s discussed yet; his idea of “understanding” vs. “overstanding”. He told me that it is not enough to understand, I must overstand what he was saying. I thought he might be messing with me, but he seemed serious about overstanding. I tried to keep a straight face throughout our conversation, but he almost broke me on this one.

Clearly, he left me with a lot to think about. This interaction had an impact on me, not because of what he was saying, but rather why. Why did he think I required this advice? It was my birthday that day, so maybe he felt my newly 19-year-old self required guidance for my week in London? I’ll never know. This interaction did stick with me throughout the course of the trip.

106

Biking in London

On Thursday, March 16th, Aarthi and I got up to experience riding bikes in Hyde Park, the largest park in central London. Biking in London is a little bit different to biking in our part of the United States.

First off, it is amazing how large Hyde Park is able to be, considering it is in the middle of a massive city. The various governments must have fought to keep green space in the city over the centuries, which is an impressive example of city planning that American towns can learn from.

Parks in American towns are typically small, dusty flat squares with playground equipment. Hyde Park embraced natural beauty by having an abundance of open air, whether that be within

As we rode along, I noticed that Hyde Park also focused on order to a degree I don’t see often in the United States. There were designated paths for pedestrians and bikers, with additional medians down the middle of bike lanes along with painted arrows to remind people to keep to the left.

Speaking of order, I was also surprised by how often dog walkers would take their dogs off leash. This was a big park with no fences, so I expected dogs to escape their owners, but it seems that even British dogs are more disciplined than American dogs.

Was our bike ride all that exciting? Not really, but it did give me a chance to partake in something a local Londoner might do in their spare time. I did not expect an industrial center like London to retain elements of the natural world, but it did, and it delivered a welcomed variation in city life.

107
The weirdest lingo I encountered was “Sorted” used as a adjective, as in, “See it, Say it, Sorted.”
Not used commonly in the United States. We heard it all the time when we took the Tube via loudspeakers.

Left Side

When we first left Heathrow airport, the first cultural difference I noticed was cars driving on the left side of the road. I knew this going in, of course, but it still felt like we were driving into oncoming traffic nonetheless. When navigating streets in London, many rules we grew up learning were turned around. Instead of looking right, left and right again, you have to look left, right, and left again. This is an important difference to remember, as I attest I almost got blindsided once or twice during my stay.

Additionally, crosswalks in London are less apparent than crosswalks in America. The indication for pedestrians to cross is sometimes absent, and other times not obvious. For example, sometimes there would be a small light on the opposite side of the street which indicates safe crossing, but I would sometimes not notice that indicator. I would often just wait for a brave soul to be the first to cross, and scamper across behind them. Jaywalking does not exist in the UK, so when it was safe, it was not uncommon to see people walk across streets, completely ignoring crosswalks. The main issue I had with traversing the city was the sidewalks.

Ultimately, people in London could not figure out which side of the sidewalk to walk on. This was a constant struggle. I would be walking along on the left side (which is what is supposed to be the accepted edge for walking) and along would come a crowd of people all walking on the right side directly at me. So I would have to dodge them by moving to my right side and continue on. Then, because I was now on the right side, I would inevitably come across locals determined to walk on the left side (once again, directly at me), and I would have to dodge them too. There was no winning.

I have the feeling the main cause of this issue is attributed to tourists, because they instinctively walk on the side of the road (or sidewalk) that they are used to driving on. But driving or walking on the right is not an American-only habit. The entire world aside from Britain, India, and Australia drives on the right.

I am sure most Americans are familiar with the entire world making fun of our temperature scale, month-before-day dating system, and imperial measurement system. But this is one of those few instances where Americans have a more widely used system than the rest of the world.

I am not advocating for the UK to change its traffic system, but it is understandable why London, a city of tourism, would experience a significant amount of chaos on the sidewalks due to foreigners forgetting which side to walk on.

At the airport terminal in Dallas some random lady asked if I was British based on my haircut. Apparently this woman and daughter had a bet going to see if I was British or American. I laughed and said I was as American as it gets.

They seemed nice enough but I was glad to be done with that conversation. When they called group 9 and I finally boarded, I was a little dismayed to find that I was seated next to them.

108

Who Are The London Reviewers

Did Anyone Say Rock Chalk To You Or Recognize A KU Article Of Clothing You Had On?

What Plays And Musicals

Besides Romeo And Julie Did You See While In London?

What Is Your Major?

What Year Are You?

109

Sam is a first year student at KU studying Visual Arts and Service Learning. She enjoys painting and sketching during her free-time and has participated in service learning organizations as a site leader, notably for Alternative Breaks. Her experience during Alternative Breaks consisted of packaging and supplying fresh products to marginalized, lower-class families residing in Detroit, Michigan. This opportunity has inspired her to branch off from only studying visual arts and continuing her service learning at KU. Traveling to London for the first time seemed frightening for her at first, but she was determined to explore, learn, and study European art during the Renaissance period from visiting both the British Museum and the National Gallery Museum. Her most favorite experience while in London was walking along the Tower Bridge and visiting Buckingham Palace to get a chance to see King Charles.

NEXT STOP: I THOUGHT THIS TIME IT WOULD BE DIFFERENT!
110
VOTED MOST LIKELY TO GET LOST IN LONDON

THE BOOK OF SIX: TWO UNCANNY MUSICALS

THE MELTING POT OF CULTURES: LONDON REVIEW

Top 5 Experiences:

1. The Shard

2. Tower & London Bridge

3. Changing Of The Guards

And King Charles

4. St. Paul’s Cathedral

5. Portabello Market

111

I Thought This Time It Would Be Different!

Chicago O’Hare Airport – 5:24pm STATUS: DETERMINED

A sudden rush of both relief and anxiety flew across my whole body at the airport.

“Finally,” I exclaimed to myself, “It’ll all be over!”

My thoughts kept echoing from the prolonged ride from this day. Aching limbs, dehydrated status, and sore feet tirelessly wandering around with no control anymore.

Oh no…

6:24pm STATUS: PLEASE SEND HELP!!!

In the words of Katherine Howard: “I thought this time it would be different!” Minutes passed and everything stood at a halt. Each face that I saw on most of my group ranged drastically, kind of like a drama show. Happiness soon left the building with only irritation accompanying the faces of many. This truly was a disaster for all of us.

Delay after delay kept coming like a freight train with the conductor refusing to stop. It was a complete nightmare!

“Where are we going to go?” Thoughts echoed in my head, “How long are we going to stay here?”

No answer was given to my cries (not now at least), and the sorrowful sighs of other passengers around me spoke despair. There I sat myself, in defeat, wondering when we would ever see Kansas again.

All I knew was that I was waiting for a miracle…

11:27pm STATUS: Playtime’s Over...

But after everything that I had already been through in London, with mainly almost getting run over two times, I felt determination growing.

For this entire trip alone, I accomplished more than traveling on my own, I traveled to freaking EUROPE out of all places! That moment of ecstatic rage fired up again inside. But just when you know it, a ring pops up on my phone.

I glance over towards the screens light, and my heart skips a beat:

Where were we now?

Kansas is only an eight-hour drive…maybe I could hop in a car and just drive over there?

By myself, a no go for my parents over at home. However, I could not wait

112

any longer here in Chicago.

I can probably try to find another flight! But that would definitely not work…

“Attention everyone!” The roaring speakers made us jump.

My eyes darted upward at the sky like staring up at the high heavens. What is the problem now?

“Gate H6 is ready for boarding” Those words shook my core, “Groups one through four, please stand at the front line”

… I think I found the golden ticket!

My right hand flew straight down towards my carry-on bag, plowing through multiple items to find my ticket. At last, I see the group number: seven.

“Groups five through seven please stand at the front line”

My body wanted to triumphantly jump up to the? sky. The waves of anxiety washed away from my mind as the sun’s rays of hope? glistened down towards me.

Our prayers have finally been answered, and now we can put this nightmare to rest. Knocks on wood for good luck…

I cannot believe I am going to be happily screaming this out loud (on paper) but… WE ARE FINALLY GOING BACK TO KANSAS!

2:00am STATUS: Hopeful

Now, this was truly like that one line from the Book of Mormon: A Spooky Mormon Hell Dream.

But…with a twist of it being a “Spooky Airport Hell Dream.”

The terminals finally opened up for everyone as the wheels jumped onto the cemented ground. The crews speakers crackled to life yet again with a line that felt like finding gold:

“Welcome to Kansas!”

After everyone got up in one go, a herd

of people rushed out of the plane. It felt like it was Black Friday all over again at Walmart. The mountains of bags and luggage came down with full force as a line went straight ahead to the front entrance.

I could not believe our trip had finally come to an end. From exploring museums, to traveling across Oxford and Piccadilly Circus, the musicals and live performance outside of the bustling streets would be a part of my happiest memories in London.

But the greatest moment from all of this was seeing that I got to experience it with my classmates. Never was I alone without the companionship of my friends who made this journey the most interesting, comedic, and craziest adventure possible.

So, in a way, this time was actually different!

113
What’s the weirdest word or lingo you encountered?
“Cheers” - I can’t stop laughing about this word. It’s too cute!

The Book of Six: Two Uncanny Musicals

Both West End and Prince of Wales

Theatres blew me out of the water with not only their amazingly low ticket prices, but also the amount of talented casting actors and actresses who stole the show with their unique singing, hilarious jokes, and overall fantastic performance brought by them.

The Book of Mormon Review

Trey Parker and Matt Stone, the creators behind the hit-comedy television series South Park, were responsible for putting together this edgy and raunchy musical to the theatres. And it’s about Mormons. Since the story and the bulk of lyrics are by Parker and Stone, The Book of Mormon is bright, fierce, challenging and unashamedly scatological. Is anyone surprised? Well, you shouldn’t be.

numbers to a musical.

The two Salt Lake City Mormons, the narcissistic Elder Price and the nerdy Elder Cunningham, are sent as missionaries to Uganda, much to Elder Price’s disappointment. After Price’s song about Orlando, both missionaries make their way to their first Ugandan home to preach.

“Do you ever feel there’s something

missing in your life?” Elder Cunningham questions. Bad move on his part as both Mormons are greeted by none other than the general of Uganda. You want his name? Well… we’ll just go with General Buttnaked!

The first surprise is how catchy? The music is. The opening number Hello! introduces us to each Mormon character, as they pop up around the stage to mimic ringing doorbells, accompanied by the Book of Mormon clenched onto their chests. It is one of the best intro

(DO NOT LOOK IT UP, YOU WILL REGRET IT!)

General Buttnaked was not really in the mood to hear about the good lord Jesus Christ, so he robbed the pair. After getting their clothes

114

and other belongings stolen by the general and his crew, both Mormons meet up with Mafala, a villager in Uganda who blatantly ignores the two’s misfortune during their first day. We also get to meet his daughter, Nabulungi, who Cunningham always seems to mistakenly forget as the musical continues.

I mean, this guy literally called her “Nutella” and “Nicki Minaj” once, like seriously dude?

From both Mormons realizing just how messed up the general is and his torment on the Ugandan villagers, Cunningham naively shows the citizens of the story behind Mormonism but makes up the entire story of Joseph Smith (the founder of Mormonism). First accidentally, but then intentionally continued on with his lies. Needless to say, it does not go well for the two after this.

Ousted by the religious organization, the two Mormons, along with Nabulungi, decide to create their own religion: The Book of Arnold! (Founded by Elder Cunningham himself).

Six the Musical Review

Six the musical has an eye-catching premise and an overwhelming sense of confidence raging from every character. Instead of having two Mormons as our main protagonists, we get the six wives of King Henry VIII of England, all in order:

these ladies sealed their fates with the king. This also plays as a competition with each queen facing off to see who had the worst time as Henry’s wife.

However, with the last known queen, Catherine Parr, surviving as Henry’s sixth wife, the competition quickly dissolves into curiosity for the audience. Everyone is at the edge of their seats wondering, “how can her experience compete with the rest?”

And BOY did Catherine take the cake on this whole competition plot line. She stops her stage number quickly and, instead, reflects off her experience with the king. This change in performance showcases the importance of retelling these stories through the eyes of each individual queen.

The musical ends perfectly with a reprise of the opening song “Six” which highlights each queen’s challenges and accomplishments without categorizing themselves as Henry’s wives. By taking the theme of independence and using it to reclaim each queen’s stories, it pushes them away from being in Henry VIII’s shadow.

The whole show truly proves that theatre is ever-so evolving and becoming more creative after the COVID pandemic. “SIX” is a show that I would recommend to ANYONE who is looking for a musical to enjoy with the whole family. You will definitely not be disappointed!

Catherine of Aragon (Divorced)

Anne Boleyn (Beheaded)

Jane Seymour (Died from Childbirth)

Anna of Cleves (Divorced)

Katherine Howard (Beheaded)

Catherine Parr (Survived)

The pattern of having the wives’ deaths either being beheaded or divorced creates an interesting hook for audiences to know how

115

The Melting Pot of Cultures: London Review

In Midwestern America, the diversity of foods is limited to certain areas of the world: American, Mexican, or Chinese foods. There’s hardly any push towards building more restaurants that cater to other cultures. Aside from American customs, the United Kingdom’s sudden change in cultural representation completely took me by surprise.

The moment that where spoon meets noodle perfectly captivated my taste buds with varieties of taste.

Now, the spice from the broth did become too overpowering for my poor tongue. However, the combination of red pepper, steamed gyoza, and the crispy sweetness of chicken will always swoon me over college dining hall foods.

Wagamama:

The opportunity of trying a full ramen bowl latched onto my attention immediately. The savory smell of roasted pork, topped with a fresh, spicy pepper alongside a serving of a hard-boiled egg yolk enticed my taste buds. The noodles gave such main character energy without?

Caffe Tropea:

One of my greatest opportunities throughout this trip, BY FAR, was eating my first English-style Breakfast at Caffe Tropea.

Although the Strathmore Hotel did have some options for English-style Breakfast, their version could not top this monumental form.

Ok, I might be exaggerating a lot over this meal but, for my first experience in Europe,

taking over the show.

Different thoughts came to my mind. The individual spices’ combined flavor filled up my mouth. Nothing at all like in Lawrence! Sure, there are several places in the area where you can find ramen noodle bowls (even just ramen noodle cups in a store nearby), but this was the true, pinnacle form of a ramen noodle bowl. Perfectly captivating my mouth with varieties of emotional, ecstatic happiness as confetti flew across my vision.

it was a change in culture with eating this cuisine.

I could not take my eyes off of how amazingly tasty these combinations were. The simple sunny-side egg, pork sausage, and a side of mushrooms topped with a buttered sourdough bread left my mouth with an explosion of flavor.

That strong, delicious sausage skin connecting with creamy and gooey texture of egg yolk dripping down. How could the

116

creaminess of this yolk be that good? It had to be a crime for sure.

Not just the egg yolk coming in to shine, but the freaking baked beans stole the show. Like come on, really Britain? Baked beans with eggs, tomatoes, pork sausage, and mushrooms? You are tripping!

However, their soft texture created a balance of the yolk mixed with the hardness of the freshly grilled tomato and chopped mushrooms. The beans inched towards the pork sausage and hugged it gently; the perfect combo of flavor.

Now this dish, among all others that I have tried before, was the pinnacle of food. Or as I like to call it, the Madonna of All Dishes; easily beating my number one spot. I would highly recommend this dish to ANYONE. The Englishstyle breakfast is truly a must-have for foreigners coming into the UK.

for the plate. I could not ever imagine how the grilled slice of lemon contributed towards the salmon’s tasty flow.

Even the size of the oval-shaped bowl holding the green beans nearly towered over the entire salmon and plank! It added to the already creative energy of the dish, almost in a fantasylike setting.

From these moments, I would repeat each of them just to capture that experience again! The freshly cut meat, delicious usage of spices, and the careful attention to detail with presentation. The dedication for each dish was a phenomenal touch to the London experience!

Two Truths And A Lie

Hard Rock Café, London Version:

I know what you are thinking right now…this is not exactly a cultural dish per se. And although it is not one, it was STILL a mouthwatering treasure to discover and behold.

The sweet, savory salmon meeting the mashed potatoes with green beans on the top felt like paradise. The addition of the plank holding the salmon was an interesting touch

by myself near the last day of the trip

See Page 97 for Answer Key

What was the most disappointing part of the trip?

Kensington Palace because I honestly thought you would get to see more stores/attraction places within the area besides the museums. They did have a few stores, but they were mainly gardening/food stores.

117
1. I went to ride in the London Eye
2. I went to take a selfie of me near the Tower Bridge and got to cross it.
3. I went to the Portabello Market

Sammi Davis is a junior at the University of Kansas studying English with a minor in Spanish. She serves on the writing team for HerCampus at KU and is a part of ThriveKU. In her free time, Sammi loves reading the latest BookTok phenomenon, trying out restaurants with her friends, picking up new crafty hobbies, and drinking way too much caffeine. Her favorite London experience was visiting the British Library which had several original copies of works by famed British authors on display.

NEXT STOP: A NEW DIMENSION OF ANALYSIS

BEST EXHIBIT IN A MUSEUM: ‘THE UMBRELLAS’ BY PIERRE-AUGUSTE RENOIR

118

TRAVEL

ANXIETY: LIKE FATHER, LIKE

DAUGHTER

BATH TIME!

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Tea at the Regency Room

2. Portabello Road

3. The British Library

4. The Science Museum

5. Seeing 2:22

119

A New Dimension of Analysis

I. Love. Rhetorical analysis. Yes, I’m that girl who loves mulling over passages and poems to squeeze out every rhetorical maneuver and symbolic significance. Did the author casually create a setting of a woman in a room with “barred windows” and a “gate at the head of the stairs,” or is this an intentional comment by the author on women’s entrapment in societal oppression in late 19th century America where men stripped women of their autonomy? Yep folks, this is how my brain works.

When I heard original manuscripts of certain works I had studied throughout my three years at KU were on display at The British Library, I knew I had to check them out. My sweet classmates came with me so I could have a little book geek moment in front of a copy of Mrs. Dalloway in Virgina Woolf’s handwriting. Sadly, this work had just been put back in archives when we went, but there were still over pieces of the exhibit I was dying to see. As I said earlier, most of these texts were ones that I had read over and over again, each time with more highlighted annotations than the last. I was fully expecting to walk into the exhibit hall, glance at the wrinkling yellow pages in a moment of awe, and get on with seeing the rest of London. However, this was not the case.

My attitude of “been there, read that” was humbled immediately as my mind flooded with questions about the edition of “The Importance of Being Earnest” in Wilde’s handwriting. Is this how Wilde wrote? Words underlined for emphasis or scribbled out entirely? Speech bubbles with circled words that rearrange that interrupt the ongoing text? Why did he write in such a large font and in a large unlined paper? I never knew such a renowned book could look so… unpolished. I thought I knew everything about the satirical, cheeky play. But, here I was, standing in front of a single page of it and rethinking what I thought I knew about Oscar Wilde’s play. Adding just the element of original formatting gave me more material to analyze and therefore deepen my understanding of the work and author.

My experience in the exhibit was nothing like I thought it would be. I felt challenged, inspired, breathless, and humbled. If you haven’t figured it out by now, I am quite a deep, introspective thinker, so here is my main takeaway from my time at The British Library: Learning is dimensional.

You can read a book cover to cover and say you

know it. You can study the historical context and say you know it. You can travel all the way to London and see an original transcript in a museum and say you know it, but the reality is you’ve only explored one dimension of it. I can mistakenly look at learning as a to-do list to check off when I scratch the surface of a work rather than seeing learning as an invitation to explore deeply through varying lenses.

120

Travel Anxiety: Like Father, Like Daughter

My parents are without a doubt my number one fans. They have championed me through rough patches and stood with me to celebrate my accomplishments. It was no surprise to me when they hooted and hollered over the phone when I told them I had been accepted into the London Review study abroad program.

However, my dad’s excitement developed into worry over the following weeks. His baby girl was going halfway across the globe with people he hadn’t met, and therefore couldn’t trust. I’d be an ocean away in a foreign country with limited cell service to assure him I wasn’t lying in a ditch. What I was seeing as a once in a lifetime experience, my dad could only picture as ‘Taken’ starring Liam Neesan. He for sure thought I would end up kidnapped or murdered.

Luckily, my mom and I were able to soothe his mind with certain measures put in place. 1) I bought a fanny pack to carry my phone, keys, wallet, and other essentials rather than putting them in my pocket. There isn’t a single photo of me in London without that sucker on. I knew that if I lost it, my father would never let me travel alone again. 2) He splurged and got the unlimited data plan from Sprint so he could text me overseas. I told him the hotel and most restaurants would have Wi-Fi and that if I was being held hostage, my kidnapper probably wouldn’t let me use my phone to call him anyway. He didn’t like that last part. 3) I promised to be careful. Yes, I am careful all the time, but I understood my dad’s concerns with traveling out of the country.

My worries surrounding the trip weren’t in regards to being kidnapped or in danger like my father was picturing. My biggest fear lied in the actual travel portion. I had never flown out of the MCI airport, never traveled internationally, never traveled without my parents, never flown over an ocean,

and never been in a plane longer than 2 and a half hours. In my mind, with so many new elements of traveling something was bound to go wrong. To make a long story short, all of the traveling went swimmingly thanks to my wonderful classmates who I flew with and the Google search engine which provided answers to all of my 12am overthinking concerns.

In all, both my father and I had unsettled nerves for no reason. Yes, I realize this is a whole article about worrying about something that didn’t happen, but folks, that is how my brain works. Lots of anxiety and nervousness for nothing to ever happen. And if you think I was bad, my dad had it worse. He always has my phone location as a safety measure, but my mom told me he checked it like crazy all the time I was away. He actually screen-shotted my location and sent it to me twice. The first picture was to confirm that my location was the hotel that I would be staying at. The second was when I traveled to Bath for the day, and my dad thought my phone had been stolen since it was outside of London.

121

Bath Time!

After several days in the big city of London, my introverted self was craving just a little bit of quiet time. Yes, I loved London and I could have found a number of new activities to do on the Thursday of our trip, but what I needed was a pleasant little trip over to Bath.

I knew of the town because of Jane Austen. She lived in Bath for a small period of time and her novels Persuasion (my personal favorite) and Northanger Abbey are both set there. I, of course, also knew the town from the Roman bathhouses that were built upon the natural hot springs and were said to have healing capabilities.

I was lucky enough to have another Janeite on the trip, so on Thursday Selena and I ventured to Bath, and the experience was truly unforgettable. The following is a recap of our agenda of our day in beautiful Bath.

1: Jane Austen Centre

I love anything that has to do with my queen Jane Austen, so being in an establishment that was all about her and her life and her novels was my slice of heaven. The best part was the Regency Room above the main exhibition hall where Selena and I ordered a ‘Tea with Mr. Darcy.’ The tower of treats included finger sandwiches, cakes, and biscuits with jams. It was an absolutely divine dining experience, and I was thrilled to have my first official afternoon tea in Bath.

was hesitant to go on the walking tour because of the hefty entrance fee, but having done it, I can say it was well worth it. The self guided tour allowed visitors to move freely throughout the exhibit and take in the impressive irrigation techniques and read about how this building that now stood in ruins was once a healing, social experience. Dr. Klayder had advised us to make sure to take a drink of the water, just to say that we had. But to my utter disappointment, the water fountain at the end of the tour that had the bath water was closed.

I
2: Roman Bathouses
122

3: Dinner at Brewdog

After a long day, Selena and I chose a punk pub named Brewdog for dinner. I ordered a plate of buffalo chicken wings, a lemonade, and truffle fries to split with Selena. The chicken wings were perhaps the best I have ever had. They were flavorful and coated in sauce, yet still crispy. The lemonade, however, was disappointing. It turns out British lemonade is different from American lemonade. England constitutes lemonade as a cold, clear, fizzy drink with lemon flavoring. It tasted like a watered down Sprite. Overall, I’d give this dining experience a 8/10.

4: Teacup Shopping

This segment of the trip was… unsuccessful. Selena looked in nearly every shop for a dainty teacup, but none were found in Bath. You’d think a nation known for tea would keep their souvenir shops fully stocked for us tourists. But what they lacked in teacups, they made up for in tea pots! As seen in the final picture, some shops created the most outlandish and odd shaped teapots I had ever seen! If they didn’t cost 80 pounds and I could guarantee they wouldn’t shatter on the plane ride home, I definitely would have snagged one. The pictures will be satisfactory, until I become filthy rich and can afford to ship one to the United States. My favorites in the picture are white stove with bread and a miniature kettle or the pink vanity up top.

My Apple Watch had 23,482 steps/ 10.55 miles on Wednesday! This was because of the tube strike, I had to walk from the Natural History Museum to Wagamama with Ladazhia for dinner, which was a three mile walk.

Two Truths And A Lie

1. I had the best cupcakes of my life from Tesco’s on this trip.

2. My dad tracked my location and screen shotted when I was at somewhere cool he wanted to ask me about.

3. I flew first class to guarantee sleep.

See Page 97 for Answer Key

123

Selena is a first year student at KU studying Psychology and Social Welfare. She enjoys reading, arts and crafts, dancing, and baking. Her favorite part of London was visiting Bath. In Bath she got to see the Jane Austen Centre and have high tea, as well as see the infamous Roman Baths.

NEXT STOP:

“I’VE ALWAYS WANTED TO BE A DAD” ~ TALKING WITH MAURICIO Purchased Six Books

124
I HATE THE HEATHROW AIRPORT Top 5 Experiences: 1. Jane Austen Centre 2. Roman Baths 3. Oxford 4. Camden Market 5. St. Paul’s Cathedral 125
TEA WITH JANE WHY

“I’ve Always Wanted to be a Dad” ~ Talking with Mauricio

When studying abroad, one experience I loved was getting to know the people in my class better. During class, it was pretty quiet; but during the trip, all of our personalities came to life. We had dinners together and went on many adventures. We came out of our shells through the many icebreakers. We made jokes and had deep conversations about the future. One person in particular that I enjoyed having conversations with was Mauricio Gómez Montoya.

During our time in London, I always looked forward to talking with Mauricio during various outings and dinners, but also his way of taking pictures and capturing our attention was such a hilarious experience. For example, whenever Mauricio took pictures, he would always wave his hands and say, “hey kiddos look at me”. We all thought it was hilarious because it was such a dad thing to do. Also, he would always count our heads so that he knew we were all there and that no one was left behind at some site. These actions always made me feel safe and comfortable like I was with my family rather than in a strange new city with strangers. What also made me feel comfortable was the various conversations in which Mauricio said his famous, quote “I’ve always wanted to be a dad”. He would ask us questions about our life and why we wanted to do what we did and would talk to us like adults instead of children which was something I was used to. He treated us like we were adults and people that he had known forever. We were able to joke with him and laugh with him. Tell him things or view certain perspectives of life in different ways than we thought before. In total, my experience in London was incredible because of the people I got to know as well as the faculty with whom I became familiar by the end of our trip.

126

Why I Hate the Heathrow Airport

I have never had so many problems going to an airport before. When we first arrived in London we made three loops in the air. After being on the plane for eight hours all I wanted to do was get off, but we were still making loops in the air. Then finally we hit the ground. The plane hitting the pavement was the sweetest sound because it meant we had finally landed in London and I was so excited to leave the plane. However, this did not happen right away, because we had to wait another thirty-ish or more minutes waiting for the lane for our plane to become clear. The lane became clear so all was well or so I thought. This is when tragedy struck. There was an issue with the checked luggage from our connecting flight and so because of this, we waited hours just to see if our luggage would come or not. This ended up being a total of six hours in the airport, which is mainly because they put our luggage on the wrong baggage claim. In the end, we all got our bags except for Mauricio, which was sad, but what was even worse was the departure from the British Airport. The departure for me was terrible. I forgot to pack migraine medication for the last two days of the trip so I ended up with a migraine while trying to go through security and baggage checks. Everything was going smoothly until we got to security. I had too much liquid which resulted in my having to throw away bathroom products which wasn’t a big deal to me, but the jams that we got from the hotel were a big deal and I ended up having to throw them away too. The only upside was that the workers at the British airports were nice and;

accommodating I just wish I would’ve known about the liquid rule when packing earlier. So the moral of the story is to make sure that you don’t have too many liquids or just check them in your other bag, because if you don’t and exceed the limit, (which is just putting them in this tiny plastic bag) then you’ll have to throw a lot of products and other liquids away.

127

Tea with Jane

I have always loved the glitz and glamor of drinking high tea in London. When I was growing up my grandmother would always put on, my now favorite movie, Pride and the Prejudice, and we would just sit there and watch the characters flutter across the screen with such elegance and grace. Looking back at it now it is one of my favorite memories and I still to this day love the prim and properness that drinking tea can make someone feel. It has always been a big dream of mine to have tea in London and

128

experience the extravagance of finger sandwiches, scones, and cake. To be able to wear a nice dress with a big fluffy hat, raise my pinky, and talk in a funny accent, just like those people did in the movies and books that I watched and read. However, I didn’t have a hat or a funny accent, but I did have my dream come true at the Jane Austen Centre no less.

The whole trip to Bath was a bit of a cluster for Sammi and me because it was as if it was a test from London to see how local we could be. We went to a train station when we were supposed to go to a coach station and had to go to the coach station to get the tickets then had to wait an hour and a half to be able to go two hours to Bath. We made it though and it was such a serene and calming place. I could see why Jane Austen loved Bath so much. The seagulls call the peaceful bells just created this feeling of an overwhelming calm and serene feeling. The streets were barely filled so everything was quiet and you had all this room to walk. The whole scene was so calming and we hadn’t even walked to the Centre yet. The centre was beautiful. It had pretty light cream walls with dark red bottom flowers everywhere and a huge staircase. When we arrived at the centre, someone greeted us immediately, and the workers were dressed in Victorian-era clothing. There was an exhibit and lecture

about Jane’s life and the history of her works along with of course high tea. The tea was magical. I felt my prim and proper moment and had my childhood dream come true. I never knew how much this meant to me until I did it and if you ever go to Bath this is a must-see or partake in an event. It is a nice calm away from the busy life that is in the city.

129

Shamaria Massenburg is a North Carolina native, who attended Broughton High school before deciding to go to the University of Kansas. She has always had a passion for journalism and sports. Her bubbly personality is what stands out about her the most. The London Review was her third study abroad program across Europe. She loves traveling, creating content, and trying new foods. At the University of Kansas, she is an office assistant in the Men’s Basketball Office, an Intern for Rock Chalk Video, and has her own YouTube Channel, where she interviews athletes— titled, “Courtside With Shamaria.” Shamaria is a rising Senior who aspires to be a Broadcast Journalist.

NEXT STOP: BRIXTON BUILT A FRIENDSHIP

Purchased Three Books

130

I THINK I LOVE FOOTBALL?

MY IPHONE TURNED INTO THEIR PHONE

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Football Game

2. Brixton

3. Oxford Street

4. Seven Dials Market

5. Camden Market

131

Brixton Built A Friendship

Being that the London Review would be the third study abroad program that I’ve been on–I knew that I didn’t want to plan out every waking moment of this trip. I am a sucker for spontaneity. Lucky enough for me–so was Tise. Tise and I had shared a few laughs on a quick ride home from class prior to this trip, but apart from that–we hadn’t built much of a bond. We talked about hanging out on the trip so much that we didn’t really put an effort into spending time together prior. However, this did not stop us from building an amazing bond, that has now manifested as a sisterhood. Throughout this trip, Tise accompanied me on every adventure I wanted to go on, whilst not having a phone. She honestly pitied me and really did not want me not having a phone to ruin our trip. But, it was in fact the complete opposite. Not having my phone allowed me and Tise to discuss our deepest thoughts and how we felt connected despite her being from Nigeria and me from America. We felt close in ways that frightened us honestly. Soon, we were doing everything together–from shopping sprees on Oxford Street to walks in China Town, and just finding joy in getting lost in all that London had to offer. There were so many precious moments that we shared together, but nothing matches our time together in Brixton.

Brixton was spontaneous because it was something Tise and I had talked about doing, but never really mapped out. However, due to the current tube strikes in London on this particular day–we had to find something worth doing, and quickly! Neither one of us could decide on what we wanted to do that day. I think that’s what I love most about Tise–throughout the trip, she kept

reiterating that she was just happy to be there. I would ask her several times for her input because if I’m being honest, I can sometimes get carried away with over-planning and doing things that interest me. But, Tise assured me that she was happy to do whatever, as long as we stuck together. So, we mapped out our route to Brixton (really Tise mapped it out because I could hardly remember which tube line to use) and we prepared for our journey, which took about 40 minutes and a bus change.

Another thing that made this exciting is that during our shopping spree days prior, Tise and I bought matching Juicy Couture Track Suits–a popular clothing brand set to have in the late 90s, and early 2000s. Tise and I bonded over the fact that we always wanted one as kids, but of course, they discontinued and one point, and made a return a couple of years ago. They are just now really being sold in stores again, but the point is–it’s vintage, and we wanted it.. BAD! So, we splurged and bought

132

them, and planned to wear them on a day that made the most sense as far as the weather was concerned.

We arrived to Brixton in our matching black, bedazzled Juicy Couture suits–me with my camera to vlog, and her wearing a pink bandana, and taking hundreds of pictures on her phone. We soon realized how culturally beautiful Brixton was, and how different it was from Kensington. Learning that this area was largely populated with minorities and full of fresh produce for the locals–made my heart smile. We also got a kick out of going to “TK Maxx.”

We had honestly just gone for the scenery, we weren’t looking to spend any more money than we already had, but I couldn’t leave just yet without the two of us getting some pictures in our outfits. Of course, Tise trusted me to lead the way in this endeavor. We stumbled across a beauty supply store, and for those of you that don’t know–it’s a store full of hair products, makeup, lip gloss, and a bunch of other things catered to black women. A beauty supply store is like home to a black woman. We were so shocked to see one! So, I told Tise to download a vintage camera app on her phone, that would make our pictures appear as if they were taken on film. We had a whole photo shoot, and of course, we couldn’t leave without buying lip gloss. Our pictures came out amazing, and we definitely looked as if we would’ve been on the cover of some magazine in the 90s. It was such a spontaneous and organic moment that she and I shared, and as we were leaving we

looked at each other and I said “Yeah, it’s official. We are definitely friends,” Tise looked back at me and said, “No, this is really scary–I can’t believe how perfect this is.” I think that was the true mark of our friendship. We had clearly become friends at this point in the trip, but I think we were both just astonished at how quickly everything was happening–we both didn’t want to scare the other person or make it an awkward situation, but it was something undeniable–we were sisters. So, if I have to thank London for anything–it would be for allowing me to find something that was right in front of me the whole time.

133

I Think I Love Football?

As someone who aspires to be a broadcast journalist–I love all things sports. Anything that empowers an athlete or contributes to my overall understanding of athletes and the difficulty surrounding that, count me in! I come from a family of athletes, and pretty much have been around it my whole life. Especially because I was a cheerleader from Age 4, until high school. Because of that, I jumped at the invitation to go to a Division 2 soccer game with Mauricio. However, I can’t say that it was always on my to-do list to understand soccer. It wasn’t. I come from a basketball and American football family, and I still hardly understand American football. But, an internship offer from Apple quickly changed that for me. Apple bought out MLS last year–making them not only a tech company, but a sports streaming service–which is very new for Apple. Ultimately, creating new internships for sports programmers. I want to be clear, I am a broadcast journalism major–I’ve never taken a class involving any type of sports programming. But, I was told that if I had a good understanding of soccer in my second interview–I would still get a fair chance at the position. Fast Forward 3 months later, and I got the job offer one day before our London trip. This news came right before my spring break trip out of the country, I was elated. I couldn’t wait to tell Mauricio the news. Before the trip, I was having doubts about if I would get the internship or not, but the offer alone motivated me to continue to study the sport, because what if the next job offer gets taken away due to my lack of knowledge? I didn’t want to take any more chances–so, I was going to go to the soccer game regardless, but finding out I’d actually been selected for something so huge, really made this special.

Mauricio, Alexis, and I–spent the day indulging in tailgate activities and meeting semi-pro athletes. I have never been to a professional soccer game, nor did I realize they do a lot of things similar to American sports and pre-game planning. It’s just in a different market.

Feeling the sense of family the two teams created, and fan involvement–I was able to treat soccer as any other American sport. I vlogged the entire game, wanting to remember every second of it! Eventually, I had to put the camera down because Mauricio and I were screaming for Manchester United, to score and tie the game. This moment was so special for me, because I really understood what was happening, and without thinking–decided to support a team.

I am very grateful to Mauricio for inviting me with him, and giving me a crash course on soccer rules–throughout the entire game, with no complaints! It was an amazing experience and one that I am sure will separate me from the other interns.

134

My iPhone Turned Into THEIR Phone.

Upon arriving in London, I was extremely excited. I had traveled in Europe before, but never to London! For a travel vlogger like myself, the possibilities were endless! Once our group arrived at the hotel—we only had about two hours until our first group dinner, but after such a long flight—I knew that if I showered and lay down, I would fall asleep and miss dinner. I also didn’t want to waste a second, did I mention I’m a travel vlogger? Be that as it may— I had written down several places to go to, in the event that I had free time. Although I love traveling, I have since learned that you should not plan out every minute of the trip, so instead, I just wrote down places that I would like to go. First up on the list was Zara. Zara is my favorite clothing store and is extremely popular in Europe. We don’t have one in Kansas, so whenever I travel—Zara is always my first stop! However, I didn’t want to just find any regular Zara, I needed to do research first. So, I did what most kids my age do, I opened TikTok. All I had to do was type in “London Zara,” and immediately found a plethora of results. The very first video that caught my eye read “Four-Story Zara in London.” Even though there was a Zara about 8 minutes away from our hotel, I had already decided that I had to see this four-story Zara, and what better time to do that than a 2-hour gap? So, I quickly showered to rid myself of the airport stench and called an Uber to the four-story Zara that was roughly 15 minutes away. Once I arrived I immediately began picking up things that looked nice to me. I was on a bit of a time crunch at this point, so I had no intention of trying anything on. However, within 10 minutes of being there, I had both of my hands full with clothing items and was frantically going up and down the escalators trying to make sure I’d seen everything. After going up and down the escalators a few times—I realized I was acting like a kid in a candy store, and I needed to be realistic. It was only the first day and it wouldn’t really be smart to spend over $100 in Zara on the first day when I hadn’t yet explored London. So, I decided I would put back at least 2-3 items.

It may not sound like much, but this took a lot of strength and restraint. I went up and down the escalator a few times—trying to place a few items back in the section that I found them in. Once I did that, I analyzed the items that I still had, and to no surprise—my hands were still very full. Keeping an eye on the clock, I decide to try on these items anyway, because I definitely did not want to have to return anything or waste any time. I dreadfully walked to the back of a very long line and began to wait. As I was waiting—I was texting a few friends back home, while trying to hold all of the clothing items in my hand. As I’m texting with one hand, and holding a pile of clothes in the other, a few things begin to fall. I quickly threw my phone into my raincoat pocket and picked up the clothes that had fallen. Once I picked them up, I reached back into my pocket to finish sending a message, and to my surprise, it was gone. As if it had just disappeared.

I obviously was aware of the very known stereotype about thieves in Europe, especially as it pertains to Americans—but, still, a part of me refused to believe that I had been that naive. I mean, I did have a hand full of clothes, it could’ve been lost in there, or in my fanny pack, or in the first jacket that I had put to wear up under my raincoat. As I am trying not to panic, the line is moving, so I am trying to walk forward to keep my place in line, but also so that I don’t draw too much attention to myself. I was certain that my eyes were playing tricks on me. Before I knew it, it was my turn to go into a dressing room. I looked at the worker before going in and said “if someone tells you they found a phone will you please let me know?” “What?!” She exclaimed. I repeated myself and told her that I was just standing in line when my phone disappeared. “Oh well, then it’s gone. Someone stole it,” the worker says as she rushes me into a dressing stall. I was then tasked with figuring out which metro to get on to go back to the hotel. Which, was not in the plans at all–because if it were, I wouldn’t have taken an Uber! However, looking back–I’m sure I’ll laugh about this one day. But, that day is not today. As I have still been without a phone for 3 weeks now.

135

Shayla is a third year senior at KU from Riverton, Kansas, studying English and Creative Writing and minoring in Journalism. She enjoys puzzles, video games, walking, and cooking. Her favorite part of visiting London was trying a variety of foods and seeing many amazing shows and musicals. She also enjoyed visiting the bookstores on Oxford’s campus. After graduation, she plans to pursue a career involving her passion for writing.

NEXT STOP: DON’T LOOK DOWN

BEST MUSEUM EXHIBIT: THE PRESERVED SPECIMEN FROM THE ERUPTION OF MT. VESUVIUS

136

SUSTAINING STATE OF MIND

TIRAMISU ISSUE

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Oxford Covered Market

2. The British Bake Off Musical

3. The Book Of Mormon

4. Six

5. The Natural History Museum

137

Don’t Look Down

As someone who attends as many shows whenever possible, I was ecstatic at the chance to see a show while visiting London, but there were quite a few differences I was not expecting when I arrived.

In the United States, I’ve seen three major professional contemporary musical productions along with one more local, but still professional, play, accompanied by a plethora of amateur productions of all kinds. As for the professional shows, many were performed in large cities such as Kansas City and Chicago, and being in the states, many theatres are built quite wide and tall. None of the musicals came cheap and hardly any seats could be purchased under $100 without having most of the stage obstructed, making tickets much pricey for a decent seat that was usually a booth seat behind most of the floor seating, allowing for most of the stage to be visible, a bit distant, but still comfortable. This high price point is one of the primary reasons that seeing shows in the United States is so difficult, accompanied by lack of availability, shows selling out early and seldom being performed in the same location for long, it’s incredibly

the group performance, Romeo and Julie, a contemporary play that took a spin on the classic tale of Romeo and Juliette in the modern world where Romeo is a single teenage dad and Julie is studying for university exams when they cross paths.

When I first attended the show, the initial differences were already apparent. There was a bar on the first entrance where audience members could order a drink to take into the show with them as well as pre-order a drink for intermission, or interlude, something I had never seen in an American theatre before.

Then, as I took my seat, I realized another fundamental difference: size. The theatre was quite tall, probably about the same height as an American theatre, but the width was considerably smaller due to the lower availability of land in the country, causing a high price point. It makes sense that the buildings would be thinner, but because of this, the theatre felt much more intimate. This size difference made for some interesting views as well, some sitting above or almost at eye-level with the stage lights, though the stage was much closer than it would be in any

difficult in comparison to the London experience when attending shows on top of the transportation issues that can come with it.

Many theatres don’t have places to park and with the lack-luster unreliable transportation system in the states and high price point for Ubers late at night when they’re in such high demand, even getting a ride to and from the show is much more difficult.

In London, the first show I attended was

American theatre in a major city. There were also captions on a digital sign that proved quite useful to those unfamiliar with the Welsh accent that I’ve never seen in the states before either. I enjoyed the show and all its surprises and a few of the big differences I noticed I brushed off as being onetime experiences as the show could have been a more local performance in a smaller theatre. It was the second show I saw that put most of these differences into perspective. The Great British Bake Off Musical was the first show I bought the tickets to myself and at just 19 pounds, about 24 USD, the show was incredibly cheap and the seats had a pretty good view as well.

The very top of the stage was a bit obstructed by the booths above us, but because of

138

the type of show itself, it didn’t really hinder the experience.

The reason these tickets were so cheap was not only because of the priority of accessible shows in a city dedicated to theatrical arts, but also because of a system that’s in place due to those exact priorities. Tickets are often sold to shows the day of the performance at a discounted price, making it easy to check prices the morning of the show in-person or online and purchase a cheaper ticket to a show with relatively good seating options.

The theatre itself was a bit wider than the previous one, but also a bit shorter, but still considerably smaller than most American city theatres. The show itself was a comedy that was filled with jokes about the show, but also local references, timely political jokes, and lots of adult humor as well, and was

obstructions whatsoever and a box seat view just above the floor level, extremely close to the stage, making this the best view of the trip. This theatre was much larger than the others, the widest by far, but still significantly smaller than any large production shows in the states, making this performance feel even more special. The trend of bars being present in theatres continued here as well, having quite the large modern bar filled with people through all stages of the performance. The final show of the trip on the final day was Six. Another skinny and tall theatre where our seats were high above the stage, so high that you could use coins to pay for binoculars to see the stage, although, it wasn’t that far of a seat that it was necessary, but once again we were above the stage lights.

The lowest priced tickets for this show were from 45 to 60 pounds, on the high end, being about 74 USD. The lowest price in the states for this show starts on the low end at $100 depending on which city you choose to see it in. Being a British show, I took it as another great opportunity to see a show at a better price. The lively show had the audience raving at the end about how wonderfully exciting it was, leaving everyone with smiles.

All in all, it seems that theatre in London is much more accessible

delightfully surprising all around.

Next came the Book of Mormon, another day-of show that I purchased because of the price point and my desire to see what all the hype about the show was. Unlike most shows I had seen in the states, I went to this big-production musical completely blind with no ideas about the show whatsoever. The tickets were 57 pounds, about 70 USD, and though those who don’t usually attend Broadway shows may think that’s still quite a bit of money, for equivalent seats in the United States, the lowest price starts at 130 USD and the highest at 180 USD, making this the perfect opportunity for me to see a show I otherwise would have had to save almost double the money to see. These seats were fantastic with no

overall than in the United States as there are more shows performing more often in the city at much lower prices than they are performed in the states. Though the seats may be a bit more cramped due to the high land costs in the country, the performances often end up feeling more personal despite the quality of the performance remaining the same, if not better, than most American performances due to the great importance put on theatre in the city in comparison to the states.

139

Sustaining State of Mind

One of the major differences I noticed while abroad was the differences in sustainability and accessibility. While I can’t speak for most parts of the United States, most of the major cities I’ve visited in the last few years have a significantly different approach to sustainability efforts than what appears in England.

The first major difference I noticed appeared on the British Airways flight on the way there. Primarily in the way that they provide silverware made from the same material as Popsicle sticks. I had never seen this before in the states, so I assumed it must be something special to this particular airline, but to my surprise, these more sustainable and easier to recycle versions of the US-equivalent plastic silverware were just about everywhere from the Sakurado, the Japanese dessert shop a walk away from our hotel to large chain restaurants. Even the large chain Pret-A-Manger had their own compostable silverware to replace the popular wooden option. This trend continued beyond just cutlery and extended to straws as well. While in the US, paper straws are becoming increasingly popular, especially in large cities, but in most

sustainable, but also to keep our environment clean and healthy. Even one small change like Coca-Cola bottles having the caps attached to recycle together instead of becoming litter can eventually turn to businesses doing more. Some other big difference between major companies between the US and the UK seems to be accessibility. In the United States, it’s not uncommon to see Spanish offered as an alternative language in some places on menus, maps, guides, and so on, but it’s not particularly consistent in most areas. In London, it was common to see

restaurants, there were few straws to be found all together, often opting to put drinks into glasses whenever possible, but when a straw had to be used, I was interested to find that a similar type of reinforced black paper straw was used instead of the thin paper straws I had seen in the states, still dissolving over time, but not nearly as quickly as many of the straws that can be found in coffee shops and food trucks around the United States. Though these changes aren’t entirely worldchanging on their own, they’re a step in the right direction by major companies, showcasing the ability of major companies to make that same switch in the United States, and begin doing their part in both countries to keep their practices

many alternative translations, Spanish and French being the most common, but sometimes even Chinese, Japanese, and Arabic were offered. On top of language options, there’s much more accessibility to people with hearing and vision impairments. Almost all elevators and trains announced when doors were opening, when doors were closing, and clearly announced which stops or floors the train or elevator was currently at and where they were heading next. Television broadcasts of the news often feature a sign language interpreter in comparison to the US’s option to sometimes provide closed captioning on their programs. In London, it’s even becoming more popular to add captions on

140

digitized screens to live performances like plays so that not only the hearing impaired can enjoy the performances, but people with auditory processing issues or just someone who missed a line will be able to look up and read what they missed.

Overall, to me it seemed that there was an abundance of little differences between the countries when it comes to accessibility and

sustainability, but many of these little differences can change someone’s life or set a chain of events into action. London has more historical buildings than any major American city with much less space to work with considering the size of the land, but renovations still occur, creating more accessibility options even when they didn’t exist in the older buildings, speakers, ramps, elevators, and translations to accommodate many different citizens’ needs. Though this often happens in the states, the consistency is lackluster, often causing companies to add accessibility features only when someone with those accommodation needs requires the changes be made or if they have to fulfill one of the few accessibility building laws. The same goes for sustainability being much less integrated in the states. At least in comparison of London to many major US cities, the focus on providing accessibility and sustainability to the citizens feels like a larger social priority, viewing it as necessary and the duty of corporations instead of viewing those needs as something that needs fulfilling by the individual, even making alternative food options for those with different dietary restrictions or allergies much more attainable than in many US cities as well.

Favorite tube line? Piccadilly.

One thing you wish you had time for? A day trip to Stonehenge or visiting the Tate Modern.

Musicals and plays you saw?

Romeo and Julie, The Great British Bakeoff Musical, The Book of Mormon, and Six

141

Tiramisu Issue

When I first arrived in London, I had a list of places to visit, but I was still on the lookout for potential additions. On my second night in the city, I received a message on WhatsApp from a family member with a TikTok video about an out-of-commission telephone booth converted into an outdoor kiosk to sell tiramisu. The video said the kiosk was in London and if I had the spare time, I should visit and give my review on top of taking pictures of such a novel experience. I immediately jumped on the idea of participating in such a uniquely London experience and such a great photo opportunity. Little did I know that obtaining said legendary tiramisu was going to require a tiring journey that I will never forget.

The kiosk is hosted by

the Walkmisu café, selling their treats out of a café in a hotel lobby

Monday through Thursday while Friday through Sunday, between 11:00 AM and 5:00 PM, the kiosk is open and selling their treats to the people

of London. The kiosk is on a corner of Russell Square, just down the street from the British Museum. So when a small group decided to take a trip to the British Museum, I tagged along, enjoying as many exhibits as I could in the short amount of time we had to explore. My plan was to take a quick pit stop for Tiramisu before heading to our next destination. This was when the group discovered we had confused the dates for the café and the kiosk. Since it was Thursday, the kiosk wasn’t open, and I would have to come back another day. This, however, did not deter me.

I tested my luck again on the weekend, this time with a larger group in hopes that we would get a sweet tiramisu reward. We traveled by tube and through the rain, but when

we arrived, the doors were shut tight on the kiosk, the address of the cafe listed on the door. Despite our dismay, we headed toward the listed address and came upon the cafe in the hotel lobby to which we were greeted by the owner who was closing the cafe for the day. The owner offered to open the cafe again in

order for us to eat, but to save them the inconvenience and also potentially preserve our opportunity to enjoy the novelty of the kiosk, we decided we would return later. The owner informed us they would open the kiosk later. So, we took a detour to the London Review

142

Bookstore, allowing time for a quick coffee under an umbrella outside. We soon realized the rain wasn’t going away anytime soon, and actually seemed to be growing stronger. We waited under the covered seating for about a half hour when the rain reached a lull, before returning to Russell Square, only to find the owner outside of the cafe. It turns out, the kiosk isn’t open when it’s raining. So after our long wait, we headed back to the tube, tiramisu-less, determined not to let our misfortune and the rain deter the rest of our day.

We spent the rest of the day sightseeing, visiting the remnants of the original London Bridge at St. Magnus the Martyr’s Church,

taking photos of the city from the current London Bridge, and walking along the gorgeous Tower Bridge. At some point, the rain stopped, and being before five o’clock, I decided I would give the kiosk another try for the sake of my family living vicariously through my trip, taking a few group members with me. We took the tube back across town, but when we arrived, no owner was in sight and the doors to the phone booth were locked up tight once again. As my third failure, I, along with the rest of my group, gave up hope of ever trying this tiramisu.

On the final day of the trip, I visited Portabello Market in the early morning, but after scanning the booths, I was left to decide what to do with the rest of my day when the solution dawned on me. If I was going to try that tiramisu, the time would be now. It was a solo journey and I would have to pay for the extra tube ride back, but I was

determined to make this simple dream a reality.

From the Circle at Westbourne Park to King’s Cross and the Piccadilly to Russell Square, I exited the station, and there it was, two red phone booths side by side, doors wide open. I beamed as I took photos with the phone booths. I’m almost certain the owner recognized me, giving me an awkward smile, most likely confused by my determination. I, however, was over the moon and on such a warm, bright afternoon, I found an empty park bench to relax and take my first bite. The verdict is that the tiramisu was good. It was enough to decide that I would eat more again, but if I’m being honest, it wasn’t even the best tiramisu I’d eaten. Nonetheless, the triumph was sweetest of all as I ate my tiramisu and reflected on my trip up to that point. Though I still had the rest of the evening, one last group dinner, and another show, as I took the last bite of my classic tiramisu, I concluded that the trip was already a success and if I had the chance to go on this wild tiramisu chance again, I wouldn’t even hesitate.

143

Solomon Park is a senior graduating in May 2023. He is majoring in Philosophy and minoring in Business. He enjoys cooking, tennis, and going to art museums. Solomon’s favorite part of London was visiting Wimbledon and going to the British Museum. In the fall, he will be attending Minnesota Law.

NEXT STOP: A TRIP TO WIMBLEDON

BEST EXHIBIT IN A MUSEUM: MOON JAR

144

Purchased Four Books

THE HISTORY OF IRANIAN CAFES:

BEAUTY IN THE MUNDANE: A TRIP TO CANTERBURY

Top 5 Experiences:

1. Wimbledon

2. Romeo And Julie

3. Dishoom

4. Canterbury

5. Going To Pubs At Night

COMMUNAL EATING
DISHOOM AND
145

A Trip To Wimbledon

Strawberries and cream, impeccably trimmed grass, and crisp white clothes, there is no tournament in the world like Wimbledon. It is here that players like Djokovic, Federer, and Serena Williams have cemented their names in history. Steeped in tradition, Wimbledon is the oldest tennis tournament in the world. And in the modern day, it is the only open still played on grass. That distinction is an important one. Due to the nature of grass, the ball at Wimbledon moves “15 to 20 percent faster than speeds achieved on clay” (Kaufman 17). This means that Wimbledon is not only the oldest tournament, but is arguably the hardest to win.

I have been playing tennis since I was little. So when we were in London, Daniel and I made the trek out to this hallowed place.

On our last day,we decided to leave the main group early and take the train out. Our tour guide, Alfie, led the two of us and a family of three on essentially a private tour through the grounds. I am a massive tennis nerd and this was the coolest experience I have had in a while. We got to see center court, sit behind the interview desk, and learn from Alfie about the history of Wimbledon. To say the grounds team takes their job seriously would be an understatement. During the tournament, the grass is meticulously cut from 15mm to 8mm. They also make use of cutting-edge technology to maintain the courts year-round. A few years back, the

British phenom, Andy Murray, told the grounds team that the ball behaved differently when it landed on the painted lines. After conducting tests, the team concluded that Murray was right. Nowadays, the white lines at Wimbledon are not painted but are instead a “white compound… containing titanium dioxide” (Wimbledon no date). The cherry on top was seeing this massive canvas board with the signatures of almost all the players that attended last year’s Wimbledon.

I got to see the signatures of some of my favorite players including Nick Kyrgios, KC native Jack Sock, and Rafael Nadal.

It might be surprising that, given the status of the tournament, tickets at Wimbledon only range from 8 to 255 pounds. This is because seats are dolled out on a lottery system. By keeping prices low, they hope to make tennis accessible. While some tickets are reserved for resellers, most tickets can only be acquired through this lotto. However, if you luck out, you can still get a ticket by waiting in line for what’s called a “ground pass”. This is much like KU’s tradition of camping for a basketball game. To secure this kind of ticket, visitors will sometimes queue outside of Wimbledon for two days in advance.

As we headed back to London, Daniel and I reflected on our experience. We talked about our journeys with tennis and how we wished we had brought our rackets. I am incredibly grateful for this opportunity and when I watch Wimbledon, in just a few months, I will certainly think back to this trip.

146

The History Of Iranian Cafes: Dishoom And Communal Eating

I’ll admit it, I’m a massive foodie. In fact, I am writing a 30-page philosophy thesis about the relation between food and philosophy; more on that later. Relatively recently, there has been a trend in dining that has become more mainstream. Restaurants are phasing out traditional threecourse menus for a notably different setup –tapas. Here’s how it works. Instead of ordering individually, the table orders a bunch of dishes to be shared. This format allows a group to try many different dishes and is a great way to eat more communally! While we were in London we got to try a popular restaurant called Dishoom that specializes in this format.

Dishoom takes its inspiration from

the Iranian cafes of the 1900s. First created by Zoratrian immigrants, these old cafes were OG fast food spots where travelers could grab a quick bite before heading off with their day. At their nine locations across the UK, they have painstakingly attempted to recreate the same aesthetic in these old cafes. With its sleek mid-century modern furniture and tasteful homages to the past, the Covent Garden location blends the past with the present, bringing the essence of these traditions into the modern day.

As I mentioned above, Dishoom’s menu is composed of small dishes that are supposed to be ordered for the table. When eight other people and I went for lunch, I was tasked with ordering for half of the table. Given how hungry we all were, this was a heavy responsibility! After assessing interests, we decided on ordering: raita (a cold yogurt dish), three orders of garlic naan, two orders of vegetable samosas, two orders of rice, chicken ruby (a chicken curry), Daal (a lentil curry), a sheekh kebab, an order of chicken tikka, and plenty of chai. While this sounds like a lot of food, Dishoom is pretty affordable. We ended up

spending only around 20 pounds each! Everything was delicious but, for me, the star of the show was the chicken ruby. A warm bowl of gentle spices and fall-off-the-bone chicken, I could have eaten the entire thing myself!

Returning to my thesis, my paper argues that the essence of food is language. The characteristic thing about food is that it shows stuff about the world by pointing to things, concepts, and histories beyond the plate of

food at the table. Furthermore, food is a unique form of speech because of how it allows people to share different ideas. Our wonderful experience at Dishoom exemplifies the concept I have in mind. The food showed elements of the old Iranian cafes, and it did so by highlighting those histories and dishes. Additionally, because of that meal, we all now have some semblance of what Iranian cafes are all about and can communicate those ideas with other people.

Food in London is unfairly stereotyped as being boring and bland. All my experiences have shown that this is not the case. Dishoom was probably the best thing I ate while on the trip, and it was a place we tried to go to again before we left.

147

Beauty In The Mundane: A Trip To Canterbury

Going to the Kentish Coast!

Three hours from concrete sidewalks and glass towers lie the Kentish Coasts. Composed of clay and limestone, these cliffs have an unmatched natural beauty that stretch for a whopping 350 miles. So, when we were putting together our list of places to visit, Camden and I knew that we wanted to make the trip out. We had planned to hitch a ride with Kat who was going to a town on the way. The trip began smoothly but took a left turn when, due to a miscommunication with when we were supposed to switch trains, we found ourselves in a small train station 2 hours away from the coast. Stranded in an unknown place and already an hour away from London, we decided to all pitch in for an Uber and tag along with Kat.

Going to the Kentish Coast , Canterbury!

Far from a disappointment, what followed was one of my favorite days of the whole trip. Our revised schedule began with us talking for an hour with our Uber driver Josue.

Although he was from Brazil, he had once lived in Florida. For an hour, we learned about his job as a carpenter, the differences between life in the States and London, his hopes of one day moving back to Miami, and the shocking price of gas in the UK. And as we talked, we passed rolling green hills, small towns, and farms that all reminded me

of back home. Before long, the ride was over. But as we turned into the small town of Canterbury, I wished that the ride was just a little longer.

Canterbury

The ocean is something you feel before you see – the drop in temperature and the saltiness of the air. Admittedly, this was the only thing I knew about our location as we got out of the car. Canterbury is an incredibly important and historical city. In prehistoric times, it was inhabited by the Celtic tribe of the Cantiaci, and in 43 CE it was conquered by Romans. However, it is most well known for being the home of Canterbury Cathedral. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this church is so massive that it is still under construction. Originally built in 597, I could only imagine what pioneers must have first thought when they finally arrived at their destination. While Kat went to the Canterbury Museum, Camden and I took to exploring the town. For an hour, we roamed the streets like two locals and saw what life outside of London is like. As it turns out, Canterbury’s main street with it’s assortment of small shops, restaurants and pubs has the same small town vibe as Lawrence. We eventually ended up at a local bar where we hilariously both got ID’d before we left for Evensong.

148

Two Truths And A Lie

1. I lost my phone

2. I met five former Jayhawks

3. I went to the National Gallery twice

See Page 97 for Answer Key

As a Game of Thrones fan, Evensong sounds like something that would exist in the seven kingdoms. Jokes aside, it is a free night service that features a communal choir. Given the church’s historic background, it is no surprise that this ensemble was particularly phenomenal.

Chance and Tribulation

As we took the train back to London, this time making sure not to get off at the wrong station, I thought about the adventure we just had. At the heart of my reflection was the question of if not. If not for that one mishap: we would not have met our uber driver, never explored Canterbury, gone to Evensong, or all gotten to know each other a bit more. It is for that last point that made the trip all worth it in the end.

Favorite tube line? Circle

Number of books bought?

Four

Favorite museum? National Gallery

Best restaurant? Dishoom

Did you ride the new Elizabeth Line? No

Did anyone in London say Rock Chalk to you? Yes

149

Steven is a first-year student from Costa Rica majoring in Microbiology and Molecular biology with a minor in Anthropology. He would like to go to grad school and acquire a PhD some day. He enjoys learning new things, traveling, and loves nature. His favorite places in London were Oxford and the multiple museums he visited.

NEXT STOP: BEING A FOREIGNER

BEST RESTAURANT: DARJEELING EXPRESS

150
MUSEUMS
Oxford
Oxford Museums
London Streets In General
Tower Bridge
V&A 151
LONDON REVIEW OXFORD REVIEW MORE THAN
Top 5 Experiences: 1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Being A Foreigner

Of the museums I visited and exhibitions

I saw while in London, which were much more than I thought I was going to get to see, the item that I related to the most was a piece by Fred Wilson in the TATE Modern Museum.

The TATE Modern depicted a variety of topics, authors, and pieces and it was one of the easiest museums to navigate and enjoy. The piece specifically has no name, but showed a variety of flags from multiple countries. The countries that the piece showed were African nations like Kenya, Burundi, and Chad. In addition, the piece contained the flags of African diaspora nations like Jamaica. The countries shown have in common a rough history related to colonialism. For the piece, the representative colors were taken out of their flags. From my perspective, I would say that they were made in a minimalist way. Minimalism that-in words of the museum-intend to question the capacity of the flags to represent the

places all over history did not help me resolve it. Actually, these experiences confused me more. Looking at the fabrics, canoes, monuments, statues, architecture, and even people walking gave me more to compare my worldview to. This brought me back home, which being 8730 km away made me feel as foreign as someone can be. The contradictory feeling it generated was captivating. Because, while you enjoy the city and all it has to offer you miss everything back home. I have been a foreigner for almost a year now in the US and I also was a foreigner during my time in England. Besides, culture shock experienced by being a nonnative feels weird and has multiple drawbacks. Examples abound in my daily life not understanding the way people talk or react to things. Also, being constantly lost, and crossing

complex history behind them. The piece’s criticism made me love it because it showed in the simplest way possible that culture is much more than just colors and symbols. Culture is people, suffering, traditions, resistance, and scenery. Culture is one of the strangest concepts we usually have to deal with.

While in London this question, what is culture? kept my mind busy. Walking the beautiful streets, new to me, that the city offered or in the museums looking at pieces of times and

the streets in London which are backward is an example for which I almost got driven over, or unconsciously standing out due to the way you dress. It’s difficult to manage all these bad things, a challenge harder than a lot of people might think. At the same time, you may have the worst time of your life because of homesickness and confusion while you are having the best experiences of your life. Being foreign to a culture is not easy but, once you learn to deal with your confusion, the new environment always has so much to give. Wherever you are in London with the weird streets and mews, or in the States being foreign to a place might be the worst-best thing someone can do.

152

London Review Oxford Review

Applying to university is a mess. Searching for the best-fit university is a problem most people face, which is understandable. You have to look for academics, geography, weather, culture, food, and more variables to choose from. Nonetheless, you always hear about some universities that stand out over the great majority: the so-called dream schools. These elite and highly selective institutions are mainly private, competitive, and highly renowned. Examples of dream schools in the popular imagination are Harvard, Princeton, Cambridge, and Oxford. But, Are they really that good?

This thought intrigued me while walking Oxford’s Streets, visiting its museums, and roaming around restaurants in search of something to eat. I would describe Oxford as magical, the old architecture gives Oxford a Harry Potter-like atmosphere. It is a place you can walk around and get lost through the alleys that were all paired with trees and green. Also, the town of

This rich food culture was highly appreciated and made eating and being in Oxford ten times better. Also, my experience felt much better with the impressive sustainability efforts taken in Oxford as well as London in general. Just noticing these efforts made the stay there better, and perceiving it was easy in every place you were, even in big food chain companies like Burger King. Recycling policies were shocking. An example of this fact is once trying hard to uncap a bottle for almost 5 minutes I noticed that it was made in such a way that the cap and the bottle stayed together for recycling purposes.

In general, Oxford was the best place I visited while in England. I think that KU can be inspired by lots of these efforts taken in Oxford and other universities. Notably, they could take note of the benefits derived by working

Oxford is fascinating to walk by with its multiple coffee shops, bookstore and bookstore/coffee shops, usual things to see all over London too, and other stores with everything one might need. Within these stores, restaurants and pubs stand out. In London, you can see a variety of restaurants from all over the world that, contrary to what happens sometimes in the US, had little to no change to make them more manageable for Londoners.

to improve campus sustainability, which we at the University of Kansas are not taking very seriously. Either way and although I couldn’t verify if it is a “dream school” to study in, I can say that Oxford and its town is a dream place to enjoy. Visiting Oxford University has questioned me on how things are done at KU to try and improve the current situation to make my dream school closer to the positive experience I had in Oxford, England.

153

More Than Museums

“Those who cannot remember the past, are condemned to repeat it.” (George Santayana). People tend to forget what is not affecting them, and in some way, this is an understandable

survival mechanism. Why waste energy on something that has already vanished? This makes a considerable amount of people not interested in what history covers. This leads them to follow their primitive impulses and not heed history’s lessons. Nevertheless, what makes us humans is the capability to see through these basic instincts. Besides, remembering is a justifiable investment of energy because history is much more than names and dates. History is a way to

in its context. Context, is much more important than the piece itself. Because the piece is just an attempt to make the frameworks within it endure throughout time. Yet and interestingly, the stories these pieces hold lose any trace of value without being interpreted.

Everyone should be able to go to a museum. Age, socioeconomic status, or any demographic should not be a reason for someone to not be able to go to them. The universality of these institutions is something well addressed in London, where most of them were free, inclusive, and even interactive for kids. Also, the simple fact

understand how the actions and situations that happened in the past affect us in our identity and paradigm. The necessity to exhibit the past, which humankind shall not forget, is one of the important reasons why museums exist. They present our history, but more importantly

of being surrounded by a variety of people of different cultures and ages made the museums much more enjoyable. The effort to maintain these exhibition halls as approachable for everyone is something that I really appreciated, but some of them incur oversimplification to make them more quote-on-quote “manageable”.

The Natural History Museum (NHM), one of the places I wanted to go to the most, was, from my perspective, almost a playground. It shows the beautiful architecture and had some big exhibitions that I loved. But I think they, willing to make the museum easier to navigate for a kid with no knowledge other than the simple fact of the existence of dinosaurs, ended up oversimplifying it. Most of the exhibitions shown were adapted

154

with games and puzzles for people, especially kids, to solve. These puzzles and games are usually freshening for whoever sees them in a museum because they make the environment less serious and more interactive. However, in the NHM these puzzles overthrew the mere experience of a simple piece without anything and took a lot of space reducing the number of exhibitions. For me, this was disappointing in some way because Oxford’s Natural History Museum was one of the best menageries I encountered, and my expectations went from the presumption of a better Natural History Museum than Oxford’s to a kid’s funny, interactive, and academic playground. Overall, my experience in London’s museums was amazing, and I continue to cherish the opportunity I had to visit world-

Two Truths And A Lie

1. I visited Stonehenge

2. The London bridge was mid

3. I went to 7 different museums

class institutions. The V&A, British Museum, the remarkable Oxford Natural History Museum, Pitt Rivers Museum, and even the Natural History Museum were by far the best experiences I had in London. Visiting London’s museums is an experience I would recommend to whoever to have regardless of their background.

Favorite restaurant? Darjeeling Express

What was the most disappointing part of the trip? Buckingham Palace

Favorite tube line? Piccadilly

Most steps in one day? 27,000 on Monday

How many books did you buy?

Seven

Favorite museum? Oxford’s Natural History Museum

155
See Page 97 for Answer Key

Sydney is a first generation student at KU majoring in English with a creative writing track and minoring in business. She is finishing her third (junior) year with plans to graduate in May 2024 and then plans to pursue a masters degree. In her free time she likes to read, write, spend time with friends and family, and Salem her cat. Her favorite experience while in London was people watching and exploring bookstores. NEXT

FOOD IN A PLACE THAT ISN’T KNOWN FOR FOOD
5 Experiences:
Camden Market
Portabello Market
Bravissimo
Bookstores
Romeo and Julie 156
STOP: LOVING
Top
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

BEST RESTAURANT: LIGHT OF INDIA

THE KIDS HAVE ACCENTS TOO?!

Purchased BooksEleven

WHAT IT’S LIKE TO GO MUSEUMING, WHEN YOU DON’T LIKE MUSEUMING, IN A PLACE THAT HAS 192 MUSEUMS

157

Loving Food in a Place That Isn’t Known For Food

London is not known for having great food. In fact everyone will tell you it’s bland and not to be excited about it. So I wasn’t. However after arriving and exploring for a few days I realized that London is a very diverse and cosmopolitan city. It isn’t just white English people. There were all kinds of people from all over the world. So I quickly became excited for food again, not for the American or English food but for all the different ethnic foods. Here are my reviews for some of the places I tried:

Indian:

Right around the corner from the hotel there was a place called Light of India. I knew the food would be good because Indian food always is and you can’t go wrong with butter chicken or chicken tikka masala. But I was most surprised by how fancy this restaurant was. They had white table cloths and real candles! Then at the end of our meal they brought us warm cleansing clothes and candy. So if you’re looking for good food and an experience. I definitely recommend it.

Asian:

I ate at two Asian places but the one I want to review is some hole in the wall place in Chinatown. I don’t remember the name but it was fantastic. I mean how could you go wrong? It was authentic Vietnamese spring rolls and chow mein type noodles.

Italian:

Bella Italia had a great atmosphere and our waitress was so kind and not to mention really pretty. However the food wasn’t really anything special. For the most part it tasted like any pasta I could get at home. I got Carbonara and it was flavorful but at the same time a little underwhelming.

Portuguese:

I was very unaware that Nando’s was Portuguese inspired but it was really good. I got a platter to share with a friend and we were able to pick two flavors of chicken and four sides. For the chicken we got a lemon pepper flavor and what they called mild. Both were absolutely delicious, they were juicy and super flavorful. As for the four sides we got mashed potatoes, coleslaw, spicy rice, and some sort of veggie salad. Unfortunately this is where they fell short. Don’t get me wrong the sides were all pretty good but the mashed potatoes were a little dry and the coleslaw was very vinegary. The spicy rice and veggie salad were perfectly fine though. Overall I recommend trying super good! One final note to add: while all these restaurants have good food and kind service workers, they are really bad at getting water to you if that is your drink of choice. Soda and alcohol come in the blink of an eye but water is tricky.

Just don’t get discouraged, keep asking and they will eventually bring you the smallest cup and carafe of water. But nonetheless it’s still water.

158

The Kids Have Accents Too?!

The English accent has always been something I’ve found joy in listening to. Something about it is just so soothing and not to mention that everything just sounds so much more pleasant in an English accent when all you have to compare it to is the way things sound in southern twang. It’s so crazy to me that the English accent can make everyday profanities (which I heard a lot) sound so normal. They sounded way less gross and vulgar. I don’t know why or how but seriously everything is so pleasant. Like even normal words. But what I really want to talk about is the

talking for the second time I was still taken back. Then the second time I was really listening to a child talk I was lost in Harrods and stumbled upon a toy store where I presume all the rich kids would shop. I was intrigued so I went in and immediately I heard a kid begging his parents to buy him this giant stuffed animal which was completely impractical but he was on the verge of a full meltdown. But for some reason his complaining and whining didn’t even bother me. He just sounded so elegant and upper-class. And it’s weird to think of a kid that way. Long story short, yes, everyone has the accent including the children.

accent in relation to children. It’s a little silly but for some reason my brain didn’t put together that the kids would have an English accent as well. I was just so shocked the first time I heard a kid talk. I actually had to stop and listen for a minute. I was in the Science Museum and a group of elementary aged kids were laughing at a pair of underwear on display. I don’t remember what was said but it was honestly just such a surprise to me. It was just so weird I felt like I was in a video game because their little voices and laughter sounded so generated but not in a bad way. It actually made me feel a little nostalgic because it reminded me of the laugh from “cartoon doll emporium”, an online game from my childhood. Not only is the accent pleasant but it also sounds so posh. So when I heard kids

It makes me wonder that if they came to America would they think the same things about how our children talk?

159

What It’s Like To Go Museuming, When You Don’t Like Museuming, In A Place That Has 192 Museums

mention the architecture of the museums themselves are absolutely divine. Although museums are not my exact idea of fun,I had no other alternative than to visit them with my group.

The first museum I visited was the Natural History Museum. Honestly I wasn’t expecting to be so taken with this museum. Like yes dinosaurs and the natural world are super cool but the part that I was taken

much about this museum because it was so packed full of children but they did have a lot of interactive exhibits. My favorite of them was the COVID exhibit. It was just something so different. They had a pair of pants that a woman key to creating the vaccine was wearing. They had the genetic code up on the wall. It was just something so different than anything I have seen in the United States.

I feel like I’ve always had this very specific view of London. Not anything bad or good necessarily just very specific. I’ve always imagined London as an intelligent city but also one that is both gorgeous and posh. From the amount of museums they have there, it truly brought that vision into perspective for me as a foreigner. Living in Kansas where there aren’t too many museums, I always perceived those institutions as nothing more than where the elite, well educated people visit for entertainment. However, the variety of culturally different artifacts and historical pieces of artwork from across the globe also fit London’s image of a prosperous city. Not to

the most with was the room of gemstones and minerals. Of course, many elementary school children rushed in with no hesitation towards the Jurassic Park dinosaur experience and the gift shop to buy dinosaur toys. However, the hallways leading up to none other than different continents of gemstones left me amazed.

The second museum I visited was the Science Museum. It became another wonderful opportunity to pass time. To be honest I don’t remember

The last museum I visited was the National Gallery. The experience felt completely different than in the United States due to the variations of historical but luxurious European paintings. Visiting each of these museums was not really my cup

160

of tea but looking back on it I did feel a sense of pleasure from discovering every hallway of minerals, the interactive exhibits, artifacts, and gemstones. For anyone who wishes to visit the United Kingdom, please open yourself up to new experiences that you have not done before, and will most likely not experience again for a while. Following my example of trying something new, whether you are interested in it or not, just do it because it’s a way to create

memories that you will always cherish.

Believe me when I say this to you: I promise that you will find something that is worth exploring while in London. So please make the most out of your time!

What’s one thing you wish you had time to do but didn’t? Find the 7 noses of Soho

How many books did you buy on the trip? Eleven

What was your favorite piece you saw in a museum? Birthstone arrangement

What is the most steps you got in one day? 32,000 on Wednesday

What was your favorite restaurant? Light of India

161

Tise Babatope-Ojo, (pronounced Tishay), is a sophomore at KU. She is pursuing a double major in behavioral neuroscience and psychology, which she claims is her way of tricking her parents into thinking she has her life together. In her spare time, she likes to journal, take cute pictures, and bingewatch cheesy romantic comedies on Netflix. Originally from Nigeria, Tise was excited to explore London’s rich history and culture. Her favorite memory was going to Brixton and experiencing the local food and music scene.

NEXT STOP: BLACK GIRLS

ABROAD: FINDING

SISTERHOOD IN

LONDON

BEST RESTAURANT: THE LEDBURY

162
TUBE STATION ROULETTE Top 5 Experiences: 1. Cat Cafe 2. Brixton 3. Camden Market 4. Oxford Street 5. Shopping Purchased Two Books 163
BRIXTON POEM

Black Girls Abroad: Finding Sisterhood in London

A trip to a new country is like stepping into a world of infinite possibilities. Every turn promises a new adventure, a new story to tell, and a new memory to cherish. But the true magic of travel lies not in the sights you see or the food you taste, but in the people you meet along the way. And if someone had told me before my journey to London that I would return home with a new friend, much less a sister, I would’ve laughed it off as a far-fetched fantasy, but as it turned out, that’s exactly what happened.

I’m an introvert. As a child, I stumbled upon the definition and immediately knew that it was a perfect description of who I was. It’s not that I’m a quiet person, those close to me would undoubtedly object to that claim. I’m simply

needed to stick together. It was as if we both knew the challenges that lay ahead of us, and we were united in our determination to face them together.

Even though we both sensed the need to stick together on that first day of class, we didn’t become friends until much much later. We made some plans to hang out outside of class but they fell through. It’s not that I didn’t want to hang out, trust me, I was very excited to get to know Mari and have a new friend, but my crippling shyness made it difficult to step out of my comfort zone and push past the anxious thoughts and feelings that held me back. However, as fate would have it, circumstances beyond our control would soon bring us closer together than we ever imagined possible.

Mari had a sad start to her trip. She was out shopping solo and her phone got pickpocketed. I hadn’t even reached London yet, so I felt pretty helpless about the situation, but my heart went out to her. I mean, who wants to be all alone in a foreign country and have their phone

someone who prefers quiet contemplation to the noisiness of big groups. I’d rather be alone than in a crowded space. But, as if by cosmic design, I was drawn to Shamaria Massenburg’s effervescent extroversion like a moth to a flame. Her magnetic personality and my shy introverted nature were like opposing forces that somehow collided, creating a bond that would last forever.

I remember my first day of class in preparation for the London trip. As a black girl attending a predominantly white institution, I can’t forget the jolt of excitement upon spotting another black girl in my class. Without exchanging any words, there was an unspoken understanding between us that we

stolen? It just made me wish even more that I had been there with her, so this never would have happened. Although she never explicitly expressed her disappointment, I could tell that Mari was feeling down after her phone was pick-pocketed. I wanted to put in much more effort to be a better friend to turn this trip around and make this

164

London trip one for the books for the both of us. What really blew me away was how positive Mari stayed throughout everything. She hardly complained and she was still determined to have a good time. I remember thinking, ‘This girl is so much better than me because nothing would’ve been able to drag me outside after getting my phone (the love of my life) taken from me. I knew then that she was someone I wanted to spend a lot of my time with, and do this trip together. One of my favorite things about my friendship with Mari is the fact that we both share a carefree and adventurous approach to life. We’re such bad influences on each other when it comes to shopping. I always tell her not to ask me about buying stuff cause I’ll always encourage her to buy it if it makes her happy. So when on the second day, she wanted to buy this super cute luxury Uggs bag, I was all for it! She was feeling a little down about her phone so once I saw how happy she was at the bag, I went with her to pick it up.

the day I was sat by myself for dinner and she was running late after a soccer game. Don’t get me wrong, I loved all of my classmates, but by this point, everyone already had connections made and my connection had evilly left me all by myself and gone to a soccer game without thinking about me. (She was 10 minutes late and begged me to come but I refused lol).

By the last day of the trip, Mari was no longer a friend to me, she was my sister and I genuinely had so much love for her. I loved the way she always had my back and I loved being someone she could trust enough to confide in. Once we touched down in Lawrence, we were basically stuck at the hip. It made me happy to see that our bond didn’t fade after we returned from London, and to top it off, fate had us living just a minute away from each other.

Well, that’s the story of how a shy introvert like me found a sister in a city far away from home. It’s a good thing I didn’t let my anxiety get the best of me because I would have missed out on one of the most amazing friendships of my life. Mari and I may have come from different backgrounds and had different personalities, but that didn’t stop us from forming a bond I pray will last a lifetime. I’m grateful for the way Mari pushed me out of my comfort zone and brought

That bag is like her new baby now!

That’s when Mari and I really hit it off. We were inseparable - you know, the kind of friendship where you do everything together. We’d scarf down spicy food together, chat about our families and childhoods, and even splurged on matching Juicy Couture sweatsuits. It was like we were meant to be besties. As we spent more time together, it was crazy how much we had in common. For one, we both loved spicy food, we loved sleeping in (me probably more than her), we were raised with very similar values and morals, and our birthdays are literally one day apart. You couldn’t tell me we weren’t meant to be friends. I knew our friendship was solidified

out the best in me, and I hope I did the same for her.

Nowadays, Mari and I are living our lives as sisters should - hanging out with each for hours on end, going out to college parties, and doing silly stuff together. Our friendship has taught me that sometimes the best things in life come in unexpected packages, and that stepping out of your comfort zone can lead to amazing adventures.

So, here’s to Mari, and to all the new friends and adventures that await us on our next trip. Who knows what kind of magic we’ll find next?

165

A Love Letter To Brixton

Brixton, oh Brixton!

As I roamed your streets with an open mind, My eyes caught the faces bathed in golden light, And I couldn’t help but find beauty in the unfamiliar. A sight for sore eyes.

Brows furrowed, They wondered how I blended in with ease, It was almost as though I was made to breeze through Brixton’s gritty, beautiful streets

Maybe by the way I moved. In sync with the music, feeling the groove

By the joy on my face, the sound of the beat

Though I was miles from home, how could I not feel complete? In Brixton, magnificent Brixton.

166

Stand to stand, Each face held a story untold, A journey of triumphs and woes, Of secrets kept and truths to unfold. Life’s struggles and joys, hidden in plain sight, Eyes filled with hopes and dreams, Like Stella, the old lady who everyday sold food cooked with love, and a story untold.

Her eyes, so warm and full of grace Speaks of a life well-lived with love in its embrace And as I walk by her stand and take in the scene, I see that every face is a thread in a tapestry Of cultures and traditions, woven with care,

In the streets of Brixton, a vibrant mosaic, Of stories waiting for me to share.

And as I say farewell to my newfound love And journey many miles away I will always remember how Brixton’s streets felt strangely familiar A melting pot of cultures and colors, That spoke to me like a lost lover

In the hustle and bustle of the market stalls, I heard echoes of my own childhood days, And in the faces of the people passing by, I glimpsed the same hopes and dreams that never fade.

Though worlds apart, a thousand miles, Brixton and home shared a similar beat, A fusion of cultures, a shared history, Forever resonant in my heart, a symphony complete.

167

Tube Station Roulette

I’m absolutely in love with the London Tube. How could you not? The fact that you can get from one end of the city to the other in just 30 minutes is nothing short of miraculous. I mean, think about it: you could be in trendy Shoreditch one moment and sipping tea with the Queen at Buckingham Palace the next! And let’s not even get to the quirky station names that add so much character to the system. If you’ve ever found yourself chuckling at the names of the British tube stations, you’re definitely not alone. There are some stations on the London Underground that sound like they were named by someone who had a bit too much to drink or had a particularly strange sense of humor.

These were my personal favs:

1. Cockfosters. Yes, you read that right. Cockfosters is the northern terminus of the Piccadilly line, and its name has been the source of countless jokes over the years. It’s not entirely clear where the name comes from, but one theory is that it’s a corruption of “cock forester,” which referred to someone who looked after the king’s game birds.

2. Piccadilly Circus. I’m sorry you had to find out this way but it’s not a circus with clowns and acrobats, but a place where you can get lost in a sea of tourists and flashy billboards. The station is named after the street it’s located on, which was named after the piccadill, a type of stiff collar that was fashionable in the 17th century. Today, the station is known for its brightly lit advertising screens and street performers, making it a popular spot for tourists.

3. Tooting Bec. To me, this name for a tube station is absolutely hilarious. Call me childish but I still laugh at silly words like ‘toot.’ Tooting is a district in south London, and Tooting Bec is the name of the nearby park.

4. Canada Water. This station was named after the former Canada Dock of the Surrey Commercial Docks. It’s not a particularly funny name on its own, but when you think about it, it’s kind of odd that there’s a station named after Canada in south London. Maybe they just wanted to make sure Canadian tourists felt at home?

5. King’s Cross. One of the most iconic tube stations in London; it had to make this list. A station that’s more famous for its platform 9 3/4 than for its actual trains. Don’t try to run through the wall, you might hurt yourself. Legend has it that the name comes from a statue of King George IV that once stood at the junction of Gray’s Inn Road, Pentonville Road, and Euston Road. The statue was removed in 1845, but the name King’s Cross stuck.

All in all, the London Tube is a marvel of transportation engineering and a true testament to British ingenuity. Whether you’re commuting to work or exploring the city as a tourist, the Tube is an essential part of the London experience. So next time you’re on the train, take a moment to appreciate the magic of this world-famous system.”

168

Who Are The London Reviewers

A Silver Jubilee, also known as a quadricentennial anniversary, marks a 25th anniversary. We’ve chosen our theme, the Silver Jubilee, to celebrate the London Review’s astonishing twenty-five years in operation. As the cover suggests, we’re also celebrating Queen Mary Klayder, our program director. This program couldn’t run without her. She’s the woman who makes it all happen, and has been chaperoning the trip all 25 years. Thousands of KU alumni cherish their memories of learning, traveling, and writing with her, and she has made an impact on so many people. She opens her heart and her home to her students each semester and ensures everyone feel supported and seen. We’ve thrown her a Jubilee within the pages of our book by sharing stories of our adventures in London which she made possible. Thank you to Mary and all the other staff members who made this incredible, once in a lifetime trip possible.

169
76% Of London Reviewers Visited A Pret A Manager 72% Of London Reviewers Visited A Nandos 28% Of London Reviewers Saw The Changing Of The Guards 100% Of London Reviewers Visited A Pub

Articles inside

Who Are The London Reviewers

1min
page 173

Tube Station Roulette

2min
page 172

A Love Letter To Brixton

1min
pages 170-171

Black Girls Abroad: Finding Sisterhood in London

5min
pages 168-169

What It’s Like To Go Museuming, When You Don’t Like Museuming, In A Place That Has 192 Museums

2min
pages 164-167

The Kids Have Accents Too?!

1min
page 163

Loving Food in a Place That Isn’t Known For Food

2min
page 162

More Than Museums

2min
pages 158-161

London Review Oxford Review

1min
page 157

Being A Foreigner

2min
page 156

Beauty In The Mundane: A Trip To Canterbury

3min
pages 152-154

The History Of Iranian Cafes: Dishoom And Communal Eating

2min
page 151

A Trip To Wimbledon

2min
page 150

Tiramisu Issue

4min
pages 146-149

Sustaining State of Mind

3min
pages 144-145

Don’t Look Down

5min
pages 142-143

My iPhone Turned Into THEIR Phone.

4min
pages 139-141

I Think I Love Football?

2min
page 138

Brixton Built A Friendship

3min
pages 136-137

Tea with Jane

2min
pages 132-135

Why I Hate the Heathrow Airport

1min
page 131

“I’ve Always Wanted to be a Dad” ~ Talking with Mauricio

1min
page 130

Bath Time!

3min
pages 126-129

Travel Anxiety: Like Father, Like Daughter

2min
page 125

A New Dimension of Analysis

2min
page 124

The Melting Pot of Cultures: London Review

3min
pages 120-122

The Book of Six: Two Uncanny Musicals

3min
pages 118-119

I Thought This Time It Would Be Different!

3min
pages 116-117

Left Side

3min
pages 112-115

A Conversation with a Jamaican Man

3min
pages 110-111

Traveling With Strangers

3min
pages 106-109

One of America’s Greatest Mistakes

2min
page 105

Feeling 22

1min
page 104

A Permanent Souvenir: Commemorating My UK Visit With A Tattoo

3min
pages 100-103

Good As Hell: Lizzo Lights Up London’s O2 Academy

2min
page 99

Kansas And London: A Tale Of Two Cities

2min
page 98

From Boroughs to Beaches: My Year of Study Abroads

4min
pages 94-97

Oxford and King’s College London: Medieval Studies at British Universities

3min
pages 92-93

“Here Begins A Short Treatise”: A Pilgrimage To Canterbury

4min
pages 90-91

My Quest To Find Funny Little Guys

2min
pages 86-89

Five Ways London is Just Better than America

4min
pages 84-85

Personal Conversations

2min
pages 80-83

The Royal Jewels

1min
page 79

The Chinese Ceramics Collection

1min
page 78

When the Tubes Strike

2min
pages 74-76

Natural Beauty in Unnatural Settings

3min
pages 72-73

Clean Cities

3min
pages 70-71

Crosswalks, Or The Lack Thereof In London

1min
pages 67-69

Pitt Rivers Museum from an Anthropologist

1min
page 66

British Science Museum from a Biochemist

1min
page 66

The British Museum from an Anthropologist

1min
pages 64-65

Transport Trouble

7min
pages 60-63

A Greenwich Park Goodbye

4min
pages 58-59

An Afternoon with an Angel

7min
pages 56-57

An Afternoon In Hampstead Heath

2min
pages 52-55

An Ode to the Trillionaire Cupcake

1min
page 51

Glossier You: A Life Remembered

1min
page 50

Famiglia Portico Review

1min
pages 47-49

Bird Whispering, Gordon Ramsay, and Going With the Flow

2min
pages 46-47

Alien Accent Awareness (And How To Overcome It)

2min
pages 44-45

A Plane Ride and the Pitt Rivers

10min
pages 38-43

A Canterbury Tale

6min
pages 36-37

Traveling With Your Brother

2min
pages 33-34

The Cathedral and the Abbey

1min
page 32

Talking to Strangers

1min
page 31

The Ethical Question of British Museums

1min
page 30

London Events Reviewed

4min
pages 26-29

How To Find Swifties In Another Country

2min
pages 24-25

Everything’s Bigger in… London?

3min
pages 22-23

London: Often Rainy and Now Grainy?

2min
pages 18-21

Playing “Where’s My Water” In London

1min
page 17

Winner in Colonialism

2min
pages 16-17

My Top 5 Pints In London

2min
pages 12-15
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.