MARKET REPORT: Acne Studios, Jil Sander, A.W.A.K.E Mode, The Row

MARKET R E P O R T Kotryna Adomaityte N074455

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About my brand - USP 4-5 - Market level 6 - Customer profile 7

Acne Stodios - About the brand - Brand identity - The consumer - Social media / Promotion - USP - Colours - Collections - In store - Details - Fabric and price range - Summary

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Jil Sander - About the brand - Brand identity - The consumer - Social media / Advertisments - USP - Colours - Collections - In store - Details - Fabric and price range - Summary

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E A.W.A.K.E Mode - About the brand 58-59 - Brand identity 60-61 - The consumer 62-63 - Social media 64-65 - USP 66-67 - Colours 68-69 - Collections 70-71 - In store 72-73 - Details 74-77 - Fabric and price range 78-79 - Summary 80-81

The Row - About the brand 82-83 - Brand identity 84-85 - The consumer 86-87 - Social media / Advertisments 88-89 - USP 90-91 - Colours 92-93 - Collections 94-95 - In store 96-97 - Details 98-99 - Fabric and price range 100-101 - Summary 102-103

Conclusion Referencing

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My main unique selling point is the silhouettes and the way garments are cut. I wanted to create a minimal capsule collection using tailoring elements in a contemporary way. In addition, my choice of the fabric reflects the mid-level designer market, as I choose to use natural and good quality fabrics such as wool, cotton, and silk.

Another unique selling point of my brand is color and print combination. I wanted to add print to my collection to make it bolder, therefore I design modern graphic printsa that have a vintage feel to it.

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Market

level

For my market-level, I chose the middle market, designer diffusion. Designing in Mid-level designer market level enables me to use high-quality fabrics and challenges me to create various functional details and finishings that would be realistic for Mid-level designer budget.

My designs are minimal with the focus on cut and fabrics, without unnecessary details and embellishments. Well thought out and tailored contemporary garments, with quality fabric, color, and print designs takes my collection to mid-level designer level.

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COMPETITORS I have identified my competitors due to their similar market level, design approach, and their aesthetics: Jil Sander, Acne Studios, The Row, A.W.A.K.E. MODE. My collection is aimed at a woman that loves timeless and minimal fashion with an appreciation for cut and quality.

HIGH PRICE AND QUALITY LUXURY BRAND

CLASSIC

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CONTEMPORARY

LOWER PRICE LUXURY BRAND

Consumer

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profile

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About

the

brand

Acne studios is a Stockholm - based fashion house, operating as a luxury market all around the world. It was found by John Johansson and his creative team in 1996. They are specialised in contemporary men and women ready-to-wear goods including clothes, footwear, accessories and denim. The collections are defined by Jonny Johansson’s signature juxtaposing design and attention to detail, with emphasis on tailoring and use of materials and custom-developed fabrics.

Besides offering fashion, Acne studios is multidisciplinary brand which focuses on art, architecture and graphic design. These aspects are usually applied in their stores, which are the most important marketing and visual point for them.

Currently there are 66 stores world wide.

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Acne Studios

Brand

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identity

Acne identifies through a few key elements: name, logo, and packaging. All these elements have helped to promote Acne studios and make the brand recognizable.

The name Acne - was discovered trough the acronym: Ambition to Create Novel Expression (Mr. Porter, 2011).

Another major part of Ance’s identity is its packaging. This brand identifies through a specific hue of pink that they use in all of their packaging and merchandise. The pink color very soon became one of the strongest associations with the brand.

As well as the color, the materials used for the packaging are very high quality, resonating with brand’s values such as high quality and strong attention to detail. Also, the minimalistic design of their packaging relates to the Scandinavian style interior in the stores and their apparel designs.

Their stores are minimalistic and spacious, with clean lines and simple layouts. Their interior and product go well in terms of coloring too, making it all look cohesive. Acne studios logo is also- very minimal with an emblem of their Head Office in Stockholm.

Overall, Acne has a very strong sense of their identity. The cohesiveness of their branding, products, store interior, and overall their values are the way this brand attracts loyal customers.

Katerina

35 year old Owns PR agency Attends all Fashion weeks Influencer promoting wise shopping habits

Yuli

24 year old Interior designer

Mila

27 years old Buyer and stylist Owns 2 clothing labels

Anfisa

25 years old Model Loves to travel Loves books and art exhibitions

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h e consumer

The Acne Studios target market is both male and females aged 20-45. Because price of the product is prestige, Acne Studios targets people with higher income, usually in an upper social class.

Acne clients value quality items and don’t usually dress to draw attention.

The typical client prefers to invest in quality pieces that will last a long time.

They are highly educated and likely to work in creative industries e.g. in fashion, graphic design and architecture, as sold products are minimalistic yet quirky.

Acne studios customers usually live in big cities, as these are the main store locations. Consumer can be described as self-confident, optimistic, creative, outgoing, unconventional and eccentric.

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Acne Studios

Gia Ram

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Acne studios use social media to engage with their audience. The brand uses Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest. On Instagram and Pinterest in particular, Acne showcases not only the collections but also inspirations and commercials for the brand.

On Instagram this brand has 2.9 million followers, making Instagram the most engaged social media platform. As well as runway collections and commercial images this brand also post backstage and more informal pictures and videos to make their brand and feed seem more personal and relatable. Besides that, on their Instagram now you can purchase their products.

Some garments have a shopping bag icon on the bottom of the picture, when pressed on it it shows the price and takes you directly to their website, this way making shopping experience much easier and entertaining, as their Instagram is very alluring and dynamic.

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i a l media

Facebook and Twitter contain very similar information. Mainly these social media platforms contain e-commerce images with direct links to the product.

The effective use of all social media platforms gives Acne opportunities to attract different customer groups.

Those who follow Acne’s Instagram are usually more creative and are interested in the brand and content they produce, however, the majority of them probably don’t even know about their Facebook and Twitter pages as these are more for commercial purposes.

P r o m o t i o n

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Acne Studios

In terms of promotion, Acne has its paper which not only persuades consumers to buy its products but also educates them on how to effectively select the best fashion designs. Acne Studios is the brand that doesn’t really use advertisements, the main source of their acknowledgments comes from shows at fashion weeks, their showrooms in Paris, or collaborations with other brands like Lanvin and occasional collaborations with different artists. Besides that, the company’s packaging is also a marketing strategy since all customers walk away in pink bags with ‘Acne Studios’ label. This way, the company creates awareness about its presence in the market through imagery and color which the target market can easily identify. Further, this brand uses AIDA (Attention, Interest, Desire, and Action) model for marketing and advertising. The first, attention stage is created through imagery and pink color branding which is highly appreciated by the clients. Secondly, the interest stage is for brands to advertise their new collections, however, Acne doesn’t use many advertising tactics as their consumer base is wide enough, they only promote themselves in fashion shows and showrooms. Next, is the desire stage, and Acne is known for producing quality and aesthetically appealing products which attract customers. The final stage is action, and this is where the consumer purchases the product.

However, Acne doesn’t need to worry about making sales as their reputation for good quality, unique designs speak for itself, therefore consumers are eager to purchase their products.

U One of the main unique selling points of Acne studios is their tailoring. Being a Scandinavian brand Acne focuses a lot on fit and proportion of their garments, as they are designed to be investment pieces, and last long time, which is one of their ethos as a brand.

Because of that their tailoring is always very well designed and made. Every collection contains some sort of tailoring like tailored suits, trousers, coats. Usually, structured pieces are styled with a looser fit and lighter garments to give that contemporary look to their classic pieces.

Acne Studios

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Acne Studios are not afraid to use prints. The majority of their collections contain some printed items. Usually, prints are in medium and small scales. Acne uses abstract as well as more graphic prints in their collections, however, abstract prints are usually on a much bigger scale, whereas graphics prints are much smaller and delicate. In addition, if there are prints, they are usually layered, Acne is known for mixing different prints to create one look, this way printed outfits really stand out and look unique. Even though some of their outfits are busy with prints, keeping them in neutral colors gives that Scandinavian feel, giving the collection unique and yet minimal look that is true to their identity.

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Acne Studios is known for its neutral color palette. Rather than combining different colors in their runway looks, Acne tends to use different shades of the same color this way giving more depth to the outfits.

It works very well as there is usually a lot of layers in each outfit, therefore using the same color in different shades gives that minimalistic yet unique look. Occasionally Acne will introduce pops of brighter colors like red, orange. Neutral colors also work well with prints, as Acne is not afraid to use bolder and busy prints. Busy prints in neutral colors look more luxurious and expensive.

All their collections consist of neutral shades, yet autumn/winter is much darker and spring/summer consists of the same colors just in much lighter and brighter shades this way Acne defines the mood of the season and concept of their collections.

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Spring ready-to-wear 2020

Collections

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Fall ready-to-wear 2020 23

Oversized silhouettes Layers Wide shoulders

In store

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Acne store is very minimal. Acne is keen to reflect the artistic nature and “individuality” of the area through the interior design while staying true to its signature minimalist aesthetic. Usually, the space is very spacious and clothing racks are spread trough out the store area to give that clean, aesthetic look. As you can see from the images, Acne stores have that futuristic look to them however to bring more warmth and personality Acne combines soft and structured furniture. A signature of all Acne stores, the shelves, rails, and fixtures are also made from stainless steel – contrasting with the granite tables and stools that the brand describes as “ancient stone monuments”.

There is also a mix of materials such as wood, metal, and natural rock, as this is one of the main features of Scandinavian interior design, it links with the brand style and identity.

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Acne Studios

Details Point collar and a centre button-down closure.

Overlayed with a raw-edged crinkled chiffon that’s patterned with a floral motif.

Dropped shoulders

100% Cotton

Double-needle topstitching on the collar, around pockets and on the bottom hem, patch pockets on the front, rustic gold poppers.

26 100% Cotton

Traditional peak lapels, multiple zip pockets and a broad-belted waist. Silver hardware.

100% Lamb leather

Classic double breasted blazer. Wide notch lapels and two front flap pockets.

Large brand label on the insede, left side. Two piece sleeves with moch vent.

97% Cotton, 3% Elastane 27

55% Polyester, 45% Wool Stitched pressed creases through the front. Top stitched waist band and belt loops. Back jetted pocket with closed with button.

Acne Studios

55% Polyester, 45% Wool

Double breasted trench style coat. Raglan sleeves.

An oversized back storm flap and accented with thick contrasting topstitching.

100% Wool

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Custom made whipstitched buttons.

73% Cotton, 27% Polyester

Triangle stitching on the under collar to give it more structure.

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Trench coat is cut to a relaxed fit from technical textured cotton that’s finished with a subtle sheen. It features two-way functional patch pockets and an optional drawstring belt to cinch in the waist. Contrasting custom made whipstitched buttons.

Acne Studios

Fabrics

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Suit Jackets

520£ - 1450£ Wool, Cotton, Linen

Corduroy suit jacket 600£ Main material: 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane Lining: 100% Viscose

30 Rib-knit sweater 320£ Main material: 100% Wool

Knitwear

200£ - 650£ Wool, Polyester,

Outerwear

330£ - 2200£ Wool, Cotton, Linen, Lamb shearling, Lamb leather, Cow leather, Wool-twill trench coat 1000£ Main material: 100% Wool Lining: 100% Viscose

price

range

Dresses

190£ - 1100£ Cotton, Linen, Silk, Polyester

Crepe dress 900£ Main material: 100% Silk

Shirts, blouses 180£ - 1150£ Cotton, Linen, Lamb leather, Silk

Striped shirt 250£ Main material: 82% Cotton, 18% Polyester

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Trousers

230£ - 1400£ Cotton, Linen, Lamb leather, Silk, Viscose Flared linen trousers 390£ Main material: 100% Linen

T-shirts 90£ - 200£ Cotton

Reverse-label t-shirt 160£ Main material: 100% Cotton

S u m m a r y 32

Acne studios is a well recognised brand with its unique identity. Iconic pink branding and packaging is one of their key marketing strategies.

Design wise this brand combines minimal silhouettes with neutral colours and interesting, busy prints which defines this brand as being very expressive and distinctive. My research has shown that customers wear Acne because of the high quality unique designs. They appreciate the cut and fit of the garment and choose to invest into into apparel that will last long time. This brand also offers a wide range of products, from classic garments to contemporary and more experimental pieces, this way appealing to a wider range of people.

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Acne Studios

About

the

brand

This brand was founded in Hamburg in 1968.

Sanders vision was to establish a collection of ready to wear apparel that wouldn’t overshadow the consumer, but rather give them a sense of strength. Although, at the begging people weren’t thrilled with Jil Sander’s design aesthetics as it was too minimal, after more collections were designed people started to appreciate her designs much more, and now Jil Sander is a well-recognized luxury label. Since the beginning, this brand focuses on pure design and silhouette rather than decorations and embellishments on the garments.The label is widely known for streamlined, modern pieces and impeccable tailoring. Jil Sander offers women’s and men’s ready-to-wear fashion from garments to accessories.

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Brand

Jil Sander

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identity Jil Sander’s label can be identified as ‘less is more’. Jil Sander built her brand to become one of the most exclusive labels in fashion industry, this idea continues through both the product and their marketing techniques. Looking into the brand we can easily recognize that it is a premium label due to the clean lines and overall minimal aesthetics this brand carries trough out their designs and branding. The label perfectly represents the identity of the brand through it’s minimalistic but bold font. In terms of visual identity, the brand’s advertisements and editorials remained pretty similar over the years. Mainly focusing on a strong balance between positive and negative space in order to highlight the purity of the products. However, some of their recent advertisements have a more surreal mysterious look, which is quite different from Jil Sanders’s traditional minimal and futuristic look.

Josefine

28 year old Owns jewelry brand Attends all Fashion weeks Fashion influencer Loves classic art

Bekky

30 year old Stylist Minimalistic lifestyle advocate Married Vegan

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Farina

32 year old Communications and marketing consultant Sales manager at Fashion magazine Model in her free time Loves to travel

Lisa

43 year old CEO of a modeling agency Married Has two children Loves to read

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h e consumer

The target demographic for this brand is high income, work orientated individuals aged between 25-40. The typical consumer wants sophisticated yet contemporary garments that are made to last. Because a typical consumer usually works a corporate, well-paid job they want classic garments that could be easily mixed and matched with already owned items, as they don’t have much time to spend on their outfits, because of their busy schedule. ’Trendy’ is not their aim, they want luxury items that are tailored to the exceptional standard without useless decorations, therefore, minimal Jil Sander’s aesthetics works perfectly for such consumers. Even though Jil Sanders targeted markets are Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, recently there has been a much bigger demand for this label in the United Kingdom.

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Jil Sander

Social media

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In terms of social media, Jil Sander uses Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter to communicate their product to the consumers. However, because this brand isn’t that active in these social platforms, they are missing opportunities to attract more potential consumers.

In Facebook and Twiter this brand doesn’t have much following, however, in these medias, they only post e-commerce related content. Which is targeted more towards older generations, as they are the main users of such platforms.

Their best running social media platform is Instagram, even though they only have 466k followers, they are still attracting a wider spectrum of potential consumers. Recently they started to share more of their video campaigns, visual inspirations, this sort of content is much more relatable to the viewer therefore there are many more interactions. In addition, their Instagram is very minimal and aesthetically pleasing to the eye, this way the brand is portraying their identity.

A d v e r t i s m e n t To Jil Sanders, it’s important to create an accurate representation of their brand, identity, and vision therefore when income to advertising, they try to stay consistent with the visual campaigns they create. This brand stayed pretty much the same trough out the years. Jil Sander’s campaigns are clear and minimal with a sense of purity. This brand also uses magazines and social media to promote and show their recent works. Recently they started to send out more personal invitations as well as their new products to famous fashion bloggers and influencers that have a very similar identity and aesthetics to this brand. However, Jil Sander is not the one that uses celebrity endorsements. The main expose they get is a trough Fashion shows in Fashion weeks. This way sticking to their old and trusted marketing strategies that are true to their identity.

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Jil Sander has a quite distinctive style that is noticeable in their garments, outfits, and overall vision of each season. However, the main unique selling point of this brand is fit and quality. Garments are designed and made to fit the body and accentuate the right places. They are feminine with a touch of masculinity. The tailoring of these garments is impeccable. As well as the fit, quality of garments are also very high, the materials used are luxurious and are meant to last years. Another element is its unique silhouette. Jil Sander stands out from other minimalistic designers because of their unique shapes within their silhouettes, Jil Sander usually combines A-line and more structured cut with oval shapes this way balancing the proportions and creating a unique look. In addition, a neutral palette compliments the designs and highlights this brand identity.

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Jil Sander

Colours

Jil Sander is known for its natural tones. All her collections consist of neutral colors such as white, black, beige, grey, blue. However, different seasons have different moods. In spring-summer collections, we can see brighter, lighter tones, yet in autumn-winter is much moodier and dark tones. Overall, because this brand targets mature people, with minimalistic style, using neutral colors is a great way to create capsule collections that can be easily adapted and styled.

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Jil Sander

Spring ready-to-wear 2020

Collections

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Fall ready-to-wear 2020 47

Tailoring

Feminine silhouettes Print

Neutral shades

In store

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These are some pictures that I took when I visited the Jil Sander store in Milan. This store was very light and spacious with a high ceiling. The store as well as the brand have a very minimalistic yet luxurious feel.

Merchandising was spread all around the store on metal racks that looks very modern and goes with the store aesthetics. All the merchandising is divided into collections, which makes it very easy to navigate in the store. Another thing that really impressed me was the hangers, as they were all personalized. All these little details really bring this store together and perfectly represents their identity.

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Jil Sander

Details 52% cotton, 48% polyester

Contrasting binding on the hem and cuffs

Three contrasting buttons on the front

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Pleats on the front

Embroidered bird artwork Very thick hem stitch

Collar topstitched with twin neadle

Red contrasting stitching

Pleat in the centre front of the blouse

Centre back seam in the yoke 60% viscose, 40% linen

100% polyester with satin effect. Midlength. Has a v-neck.

Invisible zip closure

Gathered box pleats on the neck line and on the skirt part

No topstitching, clean finish

Contrasting facing on the waistband

Patch pockets in the back

Contrasting white topstitching with twin neadle

Jil Sander

Asymmetrical waistband

100% wool (Japanese wool gabardine). Relaxed fit.

Has cotton tabs with d-ring, centre front closure, coulis drawstring at the hem

Small yoke in the back

Double layered skirt attached with button closure

100% cotton Sculptured sleeves

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Dropped shoulders Pleat detail at button closure

Ankle length, v-neck with stand collar

detachable belt, belt buckle covered with leather

Topstitched collar

Leather is bonded with cotton to add structure

Matt finish on leather 53

100% leather

Jil Sander

Single breasted button closure

Materials and Leather Coat 3000£ Main material: 100% lamb leatheR, shearling collar Lining: 100% Viscose

COATS AND JACKETS

1470£ - 6230£ Lamb leather, Cashmere, Silk, Sheep skin

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DRESSES

640£ - 3180£ Suede, Cashmere, Silk, Wool, Cotton

Shirt Dress 2080£ Main material: 100% silk

Long pleated skirt 1610£ Main material: 50% cotton, 50% polyester

SKIRTS

600£ - 1800£ Linen, Cotton, Silk, Viscose, Polyester

price range TROUSERS

Wool tricotine trousers 600£ Main material: 100% virgin wool

420£ - 1060£ Cotton, Silk, Wool

SHIRTS

450£ - 2720£ Cashmere, Silk, Cotton

Off-the-shoulder top 640£ Main material: 100% cotton

TAILORING AND SUITS 1470£ - 1560£ Wool

Tuxedo jacket 1560£ Main material: 100% wool Lining: 100% Viscose

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S u m m a r y To summarise, Jil Sander is a well-known designer label, due to the fact that she stayed true to her style and aesthetics throughout the years, she built a very strong consumer base.

As for her designs, they are very minimalistic yet with the point of interest in the way they are cut and tailored, and the neutral palette that she uses only complements the silhouette and finished look of her designs. Researching her brand in more depth I found out that she uses very luxurious and good quality fabrics hence the prices are pretty high. However, 56 because this is a luxury label and is targeted towards wealthy mature women the prices are considered to be fair considering the quality of the garments.

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About the brand A.W.A.K.E MODE was founded in 2012 by Natalia Alaverdian. Natalia’s unique eye for fashion has developed through a multi-disciplinary career encompassing styling, art direction and photography. Natalia’s goal with A.W.A.K.E., an acronym for All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm, is to propose a personal and distinct voice through clothing that balances conceptual, storytelling aspirations with commercial viability. Keynote designs are Natalia’s take on classic shirting, tailored coats, and dresses, each with an idiosyncratic quality underlined by a succession of very specific inspirational references of animals and characters from history, art and film. The major reference point and inspiration for all of the collections so far have been deviated from the Japanese art and culture.

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Brand

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identity

As a designer, she finds ways in producing ideas that are familiar enough to work as part of the every day, yet special enough you’d want to buy them. As a stylist, on the other hand, she has a skill in putting together looks that photograph well and can be instantly imagined on the streets of any fashion capital. Clean lines in neutral colours, perfectly constructed to make you feel like the clothes are effortless when they definitely aren’t. High levels of craft behind these pieces become apparent upon further inspection. Suiting that just looks so incredibly put-together without seeming like you took too much time out of your busy life to decide what to wear. Elongated silhouettes interrupted only with slashes of skin poking out in places you wouldn’t necessarily expect them to. All these point define this brand’s identity.

A.W.A.K.E MODE

Julia

27 year old Co - founder of Gentle magazine Editor of This is Jane Wayne online platform Loves to travel

Michella

25 year old Fashion entrepreneur Attends fashion weeks Loves to read

A.W.A.K.E MODE

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Renia

40 year old Model Married Has three children Attends fashion weeks

Maria

26 year old Works in the office Digital content creator Loves art galleries Has minimalistic style

The

consumer

The target demographic for this brand is 23-40 aged women with higher income. This brand’s consumer is an artistic person with a passion for unique garments and quality. Ideal consumer appreciates art as the garments created are classic with the touch of conceptualism and individuality. Even though this is a pretty young brand they do have stores all around the world, therefore they reach a wider range of people.

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Social media In terms of social media, this brand is present on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.

These are the main social media platforms you can find them on. Instagram is definitely the most used and popular out of all of them. There they have 115k followers, which is a good amount for a pretty young brand label. In terms of their content, they are targeting young creative people with art-related content, they also post videos, behind the scenes, and also funny and relatable content which really helps their engagement. On their Instagram they have the ‘shopping’ feature which makes it very easy to shop the brand as you can do it while being on Instagram.

As for their Facebook profile, this brand mainly shares promotional and e-commerce content. What I really liked on their Facebook page is that they share some of the inspirational pictures for their collections, which is a very good way to communicate the ideas behind their collections with their viewers.

Even though this is a pretty young brand they do have stores all around the world, therefore they reach a wide range of people.

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A.W.A.K.E MODE

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One of the unique selling points of this brand is its unique tailoring. Designer Natalia recreates classic shirting, tailored coats, and dresses into unique garments, that still have a classic feel to it. Her tailoring is impeccable, all garments are made and finished perfectly and fit the body. She tends to experiment with different shapes and scales of classic garments this way creating contemporary tailoring.

Another unique selling point of this brand is color. The main color palette consists of neutral colors, however, every collection has few unique colors mixed in which makes the collection bold and unexpected, especially with the nature of her designs.

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A.W.A.K.E MODE

Colours As I was saying before the main color palette consists of natural light tones such as white, beige, grey. However, they also incorporate unique colors such as bright green, pink or turquoise colors, which is an unexpected touch but leaves a good impression. This gives interest and dynamic to the collections.

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A.W.A.K.E MODE

Spring ready-to-wear 2020

Collections

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Fall ready-to-wear 2020 71

Tailoring

Feminine silhouettes Unique colours Neutral shades

In store

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I looked into this brand’s online store, and the first thing I noticed is that their online store is really easy to navigate, making the shopping experience better. It also has all previous collections, which is a nice advantage. In addition, they have a section for Instagram where you can purchase outfits shared on Instagram. I thought this is a very clever idea as they are connecting their online store with their best running social media platform, this way increasing the reach of consumers.

Their online stores also have recent editorials that give a modern and creative vibe to the online store.

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Details Patchwork quilted fabric

Fully lined with black fabric (cotton)

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Sleeves can be unbuttoned

Oval-shaped front opening

Popper closure

Oversized collar in the back

Asymmetric, off the shoulders collar 75

A.W.A.K.E MODE

Fabric covered buttons

Pleats in the front sinching in the waist Contrasting gold buttons

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Low back

Puff sleeves

A.W.A.K.E MODE

Concealed zipper in the back

Topstitched waist band

Tailored trouser with jean details such as back yoke, patch pockets

Vent running down the side

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Fabrics and price range Coats and jackets 690£ - 1040£ Virgin Wool, Cotton, Polyester

Oversize Jacket 600£ Main material: 70% Polyester, 21% Viscose, 9% Elastane

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Coats and jackets 485£ - 1205£ Linen, Cotton, Polyester

Red Ring Dress 860£ Main material: 100% Polyester

Trousers

125£ - 555£ Linen, Cotton, Polyester

Artemon pant Black 440£ Main material: 98% Polyester, 2% Polyurethanecose

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Skirts

285£ - 880£ Linen, Cotton, Polyester

Doric Skirt 550£ Main material: 100% Polyester

Summary

A.W.A.K.E MODE

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To summarize, A.W.A.K.E Mode considering how young this brand is, they really assured their place in the fashion industry. This brand reworks classic garments into contemporary designs, this way giving the unique look. After researching this brand I also noticed their use of unique colors with neutral tones which makes this brand stand out. My research shows that customer wear this brand to feel unique, yet still look sophisticated. They appreciate the cut and details of garments and are willing to spend more on good quality garments.

About the brand The Row was established in 2006 by Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen. This brand started when Ashley Olsen challenged herself to create a perfect t-shirt. She tested the design on a variety of women of all body shapes and ages in an attempt to find a “commonality in fit and attitude.” By 2006, the sisters had created a 7-piece collection that included the t-shirt, a pair of cotton sateen leggings, and a cashmere-wool tank dress. Throughout the years the brand has expanded to include ready-to-wear, resort, handbags, sunglasses, and shoes. Initially, the Olsens did not want their names attached to the brand and preferred to let the clothes speak for themselves. They did not give an interview about The Row for the first three years after its inception. This brand focuses on exceptional fabrics, impeccable details, and precise tailoring, the house combines a timeless perspective with subtle attitudes which form an irreverent classic signature. The Row’s collections also explore the strength of simplistic shapes that speak to discretion and are based on uncompromising quality.

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Brand

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identity

The Row brand’s identity lies in its minimalistic style and exceptional fabrics. Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen creates perfect effortless designs. Even though they look simple, they have a point of interest. This brand offers clean, classic garments, that will last a lifetime and will never go out of style. This brand was started as a brand for perfectly tailored basics and it evolved into a whole lifestyle brand selling ready-to-wear, accessories, and even interior pieces, yet it still kept its values and passion for classics. Their collections take their cues from fabrics rather than concepts, and familiar silhouettes are incrementally evolved in the pursuit of perfection. There are no unless embellishments or bright colors in any of the collections. These are the main points that define this brand’s identity.

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The Row

The

Trini

32 yearcs old Has newborn child Promotes sustainable living Believes in buying less and good quality

Savina

30 years old Owner of online beauty brand Business consultant Loves to travel Loves to read

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Golestaneh

37 years old Has two kids Lawyer Loves minimal, timeless fashion Loves interior design

Nina

30 years old Owns Plant-based, vegan, genderless cosmetics brand Mid/night Fashion blogger

consumer

The Row brand’s target market is both males and females aged 30-50 years. Because of their high prices, this brand targets people with higher income, usually upper class people. Because the style is very minimal and effortless this brands ideal customer is a mature, and educated person, usually working in an office, or owns a business.

Because of the quality of their items, they are more so investment pieces that will last a long time, hence their customer base is mature people that have already discovered their style.

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The Row

Social media In terms of social media, The Row is present on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. Instagram being their most popular platform with 1.3 million followers. There this brand shares a lot of art and inspirational content. They don’t really promote their collections on Instagram, it’s more like an inspirational diary for the consumer to look trough. In terms of Facebook and Twitter, this brand is not active there at all. Overall, this brand doesn’t rely on social media platforms to promote their collections. This is because their targeted consumers come from older generations, meaning they don’t really use social media.

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Advertisment This brand keeps its aesthetics perfectly when it comes to editorials and advertisements. Their editorials are very minimal and clean with a vintage feel.

However, this brand doesn’t rely on advertisements. Apart from being mentioned in fashion magazines, this brand doesn’t spend its budget on any other advertising, as they believe that quality and design specs for themself. The only exposure this brand has is a Fashion shows, where they promote their newest collections.

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USP The unique selling point of this brand is the cut and fabric of their garments.

It all lies in simplistic timeless designs, that will last a lifetime. The perfect combination of cut and color makes their garments one of a kind. All collections are very minimal, but well designed and finished, and that is the unique selling point.

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Colours After researching this brand, I noticed that they only use neutral tones. The main two colors within all their collections are black and white and a variety of beige and grey shades to complement the overall look. These neutral tones work perfectly with silhouettes and cut.

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The Row

Spring ready-to-wear 2020

Collections

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Fall ready-to-wear 2020 95

Tailoring

Hyper-masculine materials and hyper-feminine forms create a symbiotic relationship Neutral shades Layering

In The meeting point of style, art, and design comprises the new London store of The Row, which opened in September 2019 as the brand’s first European outpost, joining their stores in Los Angeles and New York. Space balances a refined placement of pieces from Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s luxurious clothing line with a whimsical arrangement of contemporary art and mid-century furniture, together creating the sense of a dream playhouse in a calm, sophisticated register.

Their flagship stores are like artful temples to exceptional taste. The art they install in their stores – which includes the likes of Isamu Noguchi, John Chamberlain, and James Turrell – is available to buy; if you needed a reason besides the clothes to pay any a visit, you’d find a collection to rival plenty of galleries.

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London

store

Los Angeles

Details Set in sleeve

Classic double-breasted trench coat in fluid water repellent nylon with leather-trimmed self belt, front slant pockets and storm flap.

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Contrasting Tortoise Shell buttons

85% polyester, 15% polyamide

Deep back vent

Asymmetrical wrap skirt in textured double face virgin wool and polyamide with fold-over waistband, raw edge hem and 4 button closure.

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88% virgin wool, 12% polyamide

The Row

Fabrics and price range Outerwear Terin Coat 2700£ Main material: 75% virgin wool, 20% nylon, 5% cashmere Lining: Silk

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Jackets

980£ - 4220£ Virgin Wool, Cashmere, Deerskin, Polyamide, Lambskin

2080£ - 7460£ Virgin Wool, Cashmere, Deerskin, Polyamide, Lambskin

Hermia Jacket 2720£ Main material: 100% cashmere Lining: Twill Silk

Marta Pant 820£ Main material: 89% polyester, 11% elastane

Trousers

820£ - 9080£ Virgin Wool, Cashmere, Polyamide, Lambskin, Cotton, Viscose, Calfskin

Dresses

1050£ - 8820£ Wool, Cashmere,Polyamide, Silk, Cotton Jaan Dress 3360£ Main material: 100% wool

Tops

2080£ - 7460£ Cotton, Silk

Big Sisea 1140£ Main material: 100% cotton

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Skirts Magda Skirt 1440£ Main material: 100% polyester Lining: Silk

Denim

540£ - 1080£ Cotton

Ashland Jean 540£ Main material: 100% cotton

2080£ - 7460£ Virgin Wool, Cashmere, Polyamide, Cotton, Silk

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To summarise, The Row is defiantly a very luxurious brand. They offer very minimal classic garments that will last a long time and will never go out of style. This brand only uses high-quality fabrics, hence the prices are high. This brand definitely targets mid-aged generation, which is busy, they don’t want to spend too much time choosing their outfit, therefore minimal designs and neutral colors are the best choice. They are also willing to invest much more into a few basics, that are of high quality and comfortable. This brand stands out with its quality and perfectly tailored designs, therefore they don’t really use any media to promote themselves, they already have a strong consumer base.

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C o n c l u s i o n This research allowed me to further my knowledge of designer level brands.

Even though I wasn’t able to gather much primary research, I was able to research all online platforms to get the feel and understanding about what fabrics designers use and the way they sit on the body. This research also taught me how important brand identity and vision is. How important it is to maintain it and stay true to it in order to build a successful brand label with a strong consumer base. This research showed me, that design and quality fabrics speak for itself, and how important is the thought behind all the designs.

As for my competitors, I chose brands that I thought reflect my design approach and aesthetics. I would say that my brand stands right in between the contemporary and unique designs and colors of Acne Studios, A.W.A.K.E Mode, and much more minimal with the focus on the cut and fabric of Jil Sander and The Row. Researching Acne Studios and A.W.A.K.E Mode I understood how important is the layering and styling of outfits in a catwalk, this helped me to take braver decisions while putting together my outfits.

Jil Sander allowed me to understand the way shape and color can work together, without unnecessary detailing, and how important the finish of the garments are. Also, The Row really influenced my fabric choice, as this brand uses only high-quality luxurious fabrics.

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Referencing https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/ https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows https://www.instagram.com https://www.acnestudios.com https://www.jilsander.com https://awake-mode.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwt-L2BRA_EiwAacX32WSKxkkEiNCOzGJqGxjl9wMZFiIvcmH67mB72PD1-zar6U71iJgXKBoCAecQAvD_BwE https://www.therow.com/gb/shop/women/ready-to-wear?gclid=CjwKCAjwt-L2BRA_EiwAacX32YOYAz1hjJIwXSCoDUB4Q5SA7QZhh7XddZ6udd52znAFmXtj7bmw3RoCqUsQAvD_BwE&tp=187455 https://laurenjuddbranding.wordpress.com/portfolio/acne-studios-brand-analysis/ https://hypebeast.com/tags/acne-studios http://magazine-b.com/en/acne-studios/ https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/people/jil-sanders-new-designers-on-the-future-of-the-brand https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/inside-another-remaking-of-jil-sander 107 https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?designerID=3064 https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/11902/the-row-brand-mary-kate-ashley-olsen-new-york-fashion-week-spring-2020 https://www.vogue.com/article/mary-kate-and-ashley-olsen-balancing-act