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tifs drawn differently: somewhat finer, with more linear lines. Another new turn in decoration is a visible disaffection with the gigantesque. Choices tend first to average-size motifs, then smaller ones.
an, particularly in denim. An interaction with a female-style glamour is just as striking. All of which contributes to the success of jacquards in trouser weights, and jacquard knits for tops.
WOMENSWEAR The goal for spring-summer 14 womenswear is to sketch out a femininity with a strong personality, without slipping into exuberance. So the emphasis is on subtlety, on fantasy that doesn’t disregard elegance. Beyond visuals, buyers are seeking for this kind of singularity in the feel of new fabrics. They want more substance, dryness, a certain springiness to handles. A feel or handle that catches the attention. What matters here too is a more modern sensuality, one that’s fresher and more authentic. Stretch pops up more and more in sample requests, along with high-tech accents, which buyers like for their power to update fancies and fluidity. Without a hint of rusticity, the linens, cottons, and silks selected all play on texture, transparency, and hybrid effects.
MENSWEAR Casualwear continues to colonise men’s citywear. The relax spirit is sought-after for its cottony freshness, in its really neat and clean aspects. But there isn’t any excessive casualness. Men’s choices move away from vintage, “already-worn” aspects and washed-outs. A priority in this market is finding a perfect harmony between chic and natural looks. A tasteful smartness runs through the selections for jackets and outerwear. Colours are cold and patterns low-key. But it’s in choice of compositions that really distinguishes the season: a touch of dryness, of linen, of mohair, and, why not, crêpe. To offset the sobriety of suits, buyers are looking for fantasy in shirts, with more colour intensity in stripes, more prints and jacquards.
MEN’S AND WOMEN’S CASUALWEAR Borders between tailoring and relax are coming down. After a casual spirit breathed new energy into men’s citywear, a new shift is underway: the sophistication of casualwear. All industry experts cited notions of elegance and fantasy loud and strong. What they’re looking to borrow from menswear chic is its refinement and impeccable aspects. Fabrics chosen for spring-summer 14 have neat surfaces, cottons and linens are refined, and washes are cle-
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KONFEKSİYON TEKNİK NİSAN | APRIL | 2013
ACTIVE SPORTS High-technology and lightness are of course always iconic in this market segment. But the fashion sirens are calling... Fantasy is justly appreciated in active sports, and technically waterproof fabrics appeal when they’re decorated. Prints and even, to a lesser extent, jacquards, catch the eye. Those working in functional fabrics are more and more seduced by developments in a cottony spirit. They favour fabrics that exude naturalness, with selections tending to true functional cottons, or pure synthetics with a vegetal aspect.