201301 ilovekorea eng

! a e r o K e v o IL

storyofofwhy why 33 33 foreign tourists TheThe story foreign tourists fellininlove love with with Korea. fell Korea.

Co-planned VisitKorea KoreaCommittee Committee &&the JoongAng DailyDaily Co-planned by by thethe Visit theKorea Korea JoongAng

! a e r o K e v o IL

The story of why 33 foreign tourists fell in love with Korea.

Co-planned by the Visit Korea Committee & the Korea JoongAng Daily

I Love Korea !

This book was co-published by the Visit Korea Committee and the Korea JoongAng Daily newspaper. “The Korea Foreigners Fell in Love With” was a column published from April, 2010 until October, 2012 in the week& section of the Korea JoongAng Daily. Foreigners who visited and saw Korea’s beautiful nature, culture, foods and styles have sent in their experiences with pictures attached. I Love Korea is an honest and heart-warming story of the Korea these people fell in love with.

contents 012 Korea

070 Heritage of Korea _ Tradition & History 072 General Yi Sun-sin

016 Nature of Korea _ Mountains, Oceans & Roads 018 Bicycle Riding in Seoul

The 8 Streams of Seoul, and Chuseok

024 Hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range

548 km bike ride from Busan to Seoul, thank you for the helmet-ful of Korean love

034 Jeju Olle Trail

A life spent falling in love with the four seasons of Namsan Mountain, a life already 21 years old

058 Photo Journey of Korea

The intoxicating orange light from the rising sun, I had fallen in love with the East Coast

064 Tour of Ulleungdo Island

080 Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul

When you’ve missed the last boat, that’s when you get to see the generosity of Ulleungdo Island

Jeongdok Public Library, Samcheong Park and the Asian Art Museum, a cluster of Seoul Charm

092 Templestay

I almost lost my knees doing the 108 bows, barely kept my eyes open during the early morning service, but I got to known a new side of Korea

098 The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain

I was mesmerized by the sight of migratory birds I saw in Suncheonman Bay, Haenam

052 Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain

Taekwondo is a friend of 20 years, and now I’m a Korean at heart

The Geoje Sanmaru-gil Road that I made, you will be shocked

046 Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea

076 Panmunjeom & the DMZ

086 Taekwondo

I received a precious gift from this earth, I feel 10 Years Younger thanks to the Olle trail

040 Hiking in Geojedo Island

Ah, so heart breaking!

Only a few steps separate the south to the north

Yikes! Bang! What?! Hahaha…an unforgettable night at the Jirisan National Park’s Shelters

030 Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour

General! I get very emotional seeing you standing in the middle of Seoul with a big sword

One of my wishes was fulfilled that day “Arigato, Gatbawi!”

104 Culture of Korea _ Hallyu & Passion 106 Tour of Busan

176 Tastes of Korea _ Nature, Health & Body

178 Jeonju Bibimbap

It’s more affectionate because it’s loud and crazy.

Haeundae is a place you just keep wanting to go back to

110 Tour of Drama Filming Locations

I go to soccer stadiums to feel the “Real” Korea

120 Journey of Korean Literature

I proposed to my girlfriend at Lotte World, and she couldn’t stop crying

134 K-pop Live

While Screaming for the “Busan Galmaegi” I too became a Citizen of Busan

162 Incheon International Airport

See the Korean Wisdom at the Traditional Korean Cultural Experience Zone for Transit Travelers

168 Train Journey

Romance in Public Transportation

I tried mandu, eomuk, gimbap, and… dak kkochi at a pojangmacha, and now I can’t forget the taste!

Devotion beyond your imagination, I was humbled by seeing how gochujang is made

198 Tour of Traditional Markets

There’s nothing that Moran Market doesn’t have, and here I felt the warmth of Korea

210 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes

I got to know Korean songs through Chu Ga-yeoul, and felt the Korean ‘jeong’ through Shim Su-bong

156 Busan's Sajik Baseball Park

Experience the Depth of Seoul in the Small Alleys Between the Tall Buildings

152 Korean Popular Music

Spicy jjimdak for Lunch, Healthy heotjesabap for Dinner.

Fine dining from morning till night

Partying at clubs, noraebang, DVDbang, then relaxing at a jjimjilbang

148 Exploring the Alleys of Seoul

190 Korean Street Food

204 Food Culture of Andong-si

Elementary English teacher during week, K-pop fanatic on weekends

140 Tour of the Korean Night Life

184 Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area

194 Native Foods of Korea

Sonagi Village in Yangpyeong-gun and the Gwanghalluwon Garden in Namwon-si, Such a Romantic Korea

128 Best Place to Propose

Food critic from Hong Kong can’t stop eating Namdo food

Namiseom Island, Manjanggul Cave, East Sea Lighthouse…

I came to see Bae Yong-joon, and I’m leaving with Korea in my heart

116 Korean Soccer

A spoonful of colorful ingredients, wow!

246 Travel Information

012 | Korea | 013

A Unique Culture Based on a Long History

Donggureung Royal Tombs ⓒKTO

Dongnamgangnu Pavilion ⓒKTO

Panmunjeom ⓒKTO

Life was discovered in the Korean peninsula about 700,000 years ago, and around BC 2000, Gojoseon, the first kingdom of Korea was born. As a country of 5000year history, Korea has many diverse cultures and relics, as well as unique regional specialty products. Due to its proximity to the capital city of Seoul, Gyeonggi-do boasts a rich collection of royal heritage sites. Home to the DMZ, Gangwon-do embraces the pains and sorrows of a still divided country, and it also has many beautiful mountains and temples. The Chungcheong-do region has many hot springs and resting areas, and the Jeolla-do region is known as the home of Korea’s tastes and flavors.

The city of Andong, which is the noblemen’s village visited by Queen Elizabeth II, and the millennial city of Gyeongju are located in the Gyeongsang-do region, and the volcanic island of Jejudo has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage.

Four Seasons, Four Different Settings

Bulguksa Temple ⓒKTO

Gyeonghwa Station ⓒKTO

Jusanji Pond ⓒKTO

Seonunsa Temple ⓒKTO

Jirisan Mountain ⓒKTO

With four distinct seasons, Korea belongs to the temperate zone. Therefore depending on when you visit, a whole different setting will unfold before you. Koreans like to enjoy the changes of nature by going on trips every season. Visit Korea and discover the colorful spring flowers, heart-warming summers, golden autumn leaves and snow-white winters. These four unique settings will keep your camera busy the whole time.

014 | Korea | 015

Korean Cuisine and Regional Specialties

Korea at a Glance Location The Korean peninsula is situated

Russia

in the eastern tip of the Asian continent, and along with China and Japan is it part of East Asia.

With a total area 222,135 km 2 ,

Korea

China

Japan

중국

South Korea occupies 99,461 k m 2 ( 4 5 % ) , a n d N o r t h K o re a occupies 122,762 km2 (55%). North Korea is bordered to China along Baechu kimchi ⓒKTO

Various types of kimchi ⓒKTO

Jeonju traditional bibimbap ⓒKTO

Heukdweji gui (grilled black pork) ⓒKTO

the Amnokgang River (Yule River), and to Russia along the Dumangang River. South Korea is bordered by the East Sea and the South Sea, which separates is from Japan, and the Yellow Sea to the west.

To most people, the first thing they think of when they hear KOREA, is kimchi. The various flavors of the condiments used, and the hot and spicy gochugaru (Korea chili powder) are what make this dish so distinct and popular. The one thing that best describes a country’s culture is usually its food. Korean food is highly affected by the country’s geography. Being a peninsula, Korea is surrounded by the sea on three sides, and the northern area is highly mountainous. The major ingredients of Korean food are wild vegetables gathered from the mountains, fresh seafood caught from the surrounding waters, and grains grown in the fields. Therefore, by trying Korean food, you can taste the mountains, the seas, and the four seasons.

Climate Korea is located in the northern hemisphere mid-latitude, and belongs to the temperate zone with four distinct seasons. The average temperature in spring runs between 15–19 in autumn between 11–19 about -6–7

(59–66 ), in summer around 30

(86 ),

(52–66 ), and in winter the temperature is

(21–45 ).

History The prehistoric age of Korea began 700,000 years ago, and with the inflow of the Bronze Age in BC 2000, the first Korean kingdom of Gojoseon was created. Gojoseon ended in BC 108 and was followed by the Early State, the Three Kingdoms Era, the Unified Silla Kingdom, and the Goryeo Dynasty. In the late 14th century, after the fall of Goryeo Dynasty, the Joseon Dynasty rule the nation for 500 years, and between 1910 to 1945, Japan invaded Korea and thus was under Japanese rule. After gaining freedom from Japan in 1945 the Republic of Korea was formed, but in 1950, the Korean War broke out and the country was divided.

Gojoseon–Early State (BC 2000–AD 180)

Prehistoric Era (700,000 years ago–BC 2000)

Unified Silla Kingdom (676–935)

Three Kingdoms Era (BC 108–AD 676)

Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910)

Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392)

Republic of Korea (1945–)

Japanese Rule (1910–1945)

Nature of Korea

016 017

Kathleen Stephens

Davide Macullo

Peter Walshaw

Bicycle Riding in Seoul

Jeju Olle Trail

Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain

–

–

–

Roger Allan Shepherd

Michael Eschenbach

Leigh MacArthur

Hiking the Baekdudaegan

Hiking in Geojedo Island

Photo Journey of Korea

Mountain Range

–

–

–

Martin Sutherland

Muroya Madoka

Fujii Takashi

Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea

Tour of Ulleungdo Island

Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour

Mountains, Oceans & Roads Jirisan Mountain ⓒRoger Allan Shepherd

018 | Bicycle Riding in Seoul | 019

The celebration of Chuseok has changed since I first came to Korea many years ago; it no longer feels so connected with rural rhythms and harvests. It came early this year, and the feel of summer lingers – the noisy cicadas still buzz, the tree leaves remain green. We can feel in the cooling breeze and the bluer skies that the season of “high skies and fat horses” approaches, though, and along with “lots of traffic” Chuseok remains a time in Korea to gather with family and friends, to prepare food and gifts. Children will be either adored (the very young) or admonished (the students preparing for exams) by the entire family. It’s a great time to be in Korea.

I love the countryside during Chuseok, but like many non-Koreans and an increasing number of Koreans, I’ve decided I also like staying in Seoul during Chuseok. The city is largely empty and shuttered, and we can explore at a more relaxed pace. For those of us who like exploring by bicycle, Chuseok is one of the best opportunities of the year to ride the streets and byways of Seoul without the usual crush of traffic.

In front of the Bodogak Hall White Buddha with the Embassy Cycling Team and friends ⓒTom Underwood

This year the traffic was not as light as we expected, but the weather was great. Embassy officer Tom Underwood, who spends even more time on a bicycle (and planning bike trips) than I do, had developed an “Eight Rivers” tour in the Seoul vicinity he was eager to share with us. So our

Kathleen Stephens

The 8 Streams of Seoul, and Chuseok

Born in Texas, Kathleen Stephens was the U.S. Ambassador to Korea from September 2008 until November 2011. Her first experience of Korea was back in 1975 as a member of the US Peace Corp. While working as a Native English Teacher in Chungcheongnam-do’s Yesan Middle School, she passed the Foreign Service Examination and returned to Korea in 1978 as a Diplomatic Official. ´Shim Eun-gyeong´ is her Korean name given to her by fellow Peace Corp members and teachers. She is very fluent in Korean, and she was also regarded as the “US ambassador who best understood Korea.”

020 021

group circled Seoul along a route that included important historical and ancient transport links, but that can be ridden mostly on purposebuilt bike trails along the streams and rivers.You might not think that it’s possible – but following the Hangang River and seven of its tributaries to the north almost closes the loop. In between is the challenging the

Changuimun Gate ⓒKTO

Bugak Mountain Highway. Altogether a diverse and challenging 80 km course! The Eight Rivers are the Hangang River, Changneungcheon Stream, Sunchangcheon Stream (although very small), Bulgwangcheon Stream, Hongjecheon Stream, Seongbukcheon Stream, the famous Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jungnangcheon Stream.

Our first stop was at the ancient stone bridge at Gangmae-dong (Gangmaeseokgyo). Hard to believe that this was the main road between Seoul and Pyeongyang-si in Joseon Dynasty! Later, on the Jungnangcheon Stream, we passed Salgoji Bridge, or arrow-struck bridge, which used to be the longest stone bridge in Korea. These are treasures of ancient Korean infrastructure. Too few are still intact.

can get all the way there following the Changneungcheon Stream and Sunchangcheon Stream. Within 20 minutes of our arrival the place was full of customers, so we were not the only ones looking!

Cycling Route of the 8 Streams of Seoul Changneungcheon Stream

Sunchangcheon Stream

Gyeonggi-do Bulgwangcheon Stream

The nearby Haengjusanseong Fortress on Deogyangsan Mountain overlooking the Hangang River was the site of a major Korean victory against Japanese occupiers in 1593. The Chungjangsa Shrine there honors General Gwon Yul, who together with Admiral Yi Sun-sin was largely responsible for the liberation of Joseon Dynasty. We entered a small theater to watch a film about this historic victory.

Finding lunch on a Chuseok outing can be a challenge! Fortunately, we came across a wonderful place selling naengmyeon and dwaeji galbi next to the Five West Tombs of Joseon Dynasty or Seooreung Royal Tomb. You

Bugaksan Mountain Seongbukcheon Stream Hongjecheon Stream Cheonggyecheon Stream

Seoul Hangang River

Home

한강

Jungnangcheon Stream

A short stretch of heavy traffic, two more streams with bike lanes, past the wonderful architectural trio of the Goryeo White Buddha, Hongjimun Gate (홍지문), and Changuimun Gate (창의문) and we started climbing.

I keep Montana close to my heart and I live for the mountains, but Bugaksan Mountain is a workout, even on my new mountain bike. At the top we were rewarded by this stunning view of Seoul, with very clear visibility. And then it was a straight plunge downhill back to the streams!

Then we moved on to the new bike trail along Seongbukcheon Stream

022 023

to Cheonggyecheon Stream – the stream around which Seoul City grew. What a transformation! I expect that many readers have enjoyed strolling along the restored stream with its many attractions. One is the Cheonggyecheon Museum that celebrates the past, present, and future of the stream. A 50 meter stretch of recreated shanties over the Cheonggyecheon Stream offers a sanitized version of the slums that grew up around the stream during and after the Korean War. The stream was covered during the 1960s and an elevated highway was constructed over that in the 1970s. There is a simulated reconstruction of the underground stream of that period. Finally, visitors see how Cheonggyecheon Stream was restored through display panels, images and models.

Look Inside!

Major Holidays of Korea: Seollal & Chuseok Every year over 30,000,000 Koreans head to their hometown. The metropolitan area, where almost half of the country’s popular is cluttered, quiets down during the holidays. The only reason why the entire country jumps on the highway to battle the mad traffic is to join the family.

All in all, a good Chuseok. And yes, we even ate songpyeon. A woman at the White Buddha very kindly offered us her homemade songpyeon when we rode up.

Crossing the stone bridge in Gangmae-dong ⓒTom Underwood

Korean traditional holiday ⓒKTO

Seollal welcomes the New Year

A Plentiful and Bountiful Chuseok

Traditionally a farming nation, Korea values the

August 15th of the lunar calendar is when the

24 seasonal divisions of the Lunar Calendar.

moon is the biggest and roundest in the year.

On January 1 of the lunar calendar, people say

It was derived from the ancient harvesting

their farewell to the ending year and wish for

day. The most representative food of Chuseok

an abundant coming year. In 1949, the Korean

is songpyeon, a half-moon shaped rice cake.

government declared January 1 of the solar

As Chuseok nears, people make songpyeon

calendar a national holiday. But the tradition

with new harvested rice, and it has been said

of celebrating the lunar New Year did not

that if you make a pretty songpyeon, you’ll

disappear. So in 1989, the Korean government

have a pretty daughter. On the morning of

also declared Seollal, the lunar New Year, a

Chuseok, like Seollal, families pay respect

national holiday and it is celebrated for three

to their ancestors, then share a big meal.

days. On the morning of the lunar New Year,

Some families also go to their parents and

family members gather to pay respect to their

grandparents tombs with deliciously cooked

ancestors. Tteokguk, or rice cake soup, is a

foods. Depending on the region, bull fights,

representative dish of seollal. After the ancestral

carriage fights, and ganggangsullae circle

ritual, they visit family elders and bow to them

dance are performed in Chuseok. Being an

wishing them a long and healthy life, and in

autumn harvesting holiday, Chuseok was

return, the elders give them an allowance called

always about eating well and staying warm,

“sebetdon.”Traditional games and activities of the

so much so that on this days people greeted

holiday include yutnori, kite flying, shuttlecock

each other by saying “no more, no less, let it

game and seesaw.

always be like Chuseok day.”

024 | Hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range | 025

Whilst hiking Korea’s 735 km Baekdudaegan Mountain Range, I ended up inside one of Jirisan National Park’s shelters. These shelters are often over-crowded with as much as two hundred other hikers’ that sleep alongside you. Some of the hikers are not so recreationally fit During the night, the place understandably becomes a cacophony of snoring, but if you forget to bring your ear plugs, then you might be lucky enough to experience the shrieking yelps of an unfit hiker as he suddenly contorts with violent leg cramps in the black night. As you lay there in the startled darkness, you hear the cramped hiker rising quickly from his bed-space only for his head to clash on the low overhanging hard beam of wood that supports the roof of the shelter, followed by a painful moan that replaces the shrieking. You try not to laugh along with the two hundred other men whom are now all sniggering in the mountain night. The final act is hearing the sound of the ailing hiker fall back to the floor on top of another hiker/s that causes a chain reaction of jerking and cursing bodies, as the night shelter lights up with hysterical laughter.

Jirisan Mountain ⓒChoi Jung-chul

Yikes! Bang! What?! Hahaha…

an unforgettable night at the Jirisan National Park’s Shelters

When not sleeping on ridges, you might sometimes seek shelter in rural minbaks (country guesthouses). However, arriving in pitch blackness, over the sounding alarm of village farm dogs is never easy. Knocking on the door of someone’s country home and then wondering what the proprietor’s reaction might be at this time of the night is…humorously

Roger Allan Shepherd Shepherd hiked the whole Baekdudaegan Mountain Range. Shepherd (45) was in the New Zealand Police Department, and beginning in September of 2007, he hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range in three months. From the foot of Jirisan Mountain to foot of Seoraksan Mountain, Shepherd hiked and climbed, and hiked again a full 750 km. The reason was simple. He likes mountains. He said that the mountainside of Korea were as grand and beautiful as New Zealand’s Tongariro Mountain, where Lord of the Rings was filmed. He sent us a story about his experiences in Jirisan Mountain, similar to a journal of hike. You can see and feel nature and life of Korea through his writings.

026 027

anticipative. The door opens and you watch as the Korean home owner almost dies of fright when seeing a white, unkempt feature standing in his doorway. The door suddenly slams shut before anything can be said.

Ensuring the home owner that you are not a pale gwi-shin (ghost) from the mountain interior, he slowly opens the door, peering at you from the small

of my bag, sure enough, I saw four old ladies sitting in the bus stop opposite me. I rolled over and went back to sleep, but the intensity of the argument amplified. I wondered when the bus might arrive to transport this strong disagreement elsewhere…and then the thought of ‘why the hell’ a bus would be servicing this far off part of Korea at this time of

gap and you beam a smile and slight laughter. Once accommodated, you soon become treated to fine Korean hospitality and friendliness all over laughter and maekju (beer), and the dogs go back to sleep.

the morning, awoke me proper! I decided to put a stop to this with my presence. From inside my bag, I let out a loud yawn, followed by some rolling around. I heard the old ladies suddenly stop arguing and silence reign. I slowly unzipped my bag. I then rose out of my bag draped only in my underwear, and slowly but surely stretched and raised my 6 foot plus hiking frame high into the air. The four sat there gaping at me, serenely acknowledging that they might be seeing things. I looked at them rather nonchalantly, scratching my nether region. As the four old ladies sat their silently, one of them recalled her bi-lingual skills and said in a rather questionable manner, “Hello?”

One night I had slept out on a large bench under a village guardian tree alongside a rural road. At about 5.30a.m. as I lay huddled inside my sleeping bag; I heard what sounded like a bunch of old ladies having an argument. They hadn’t spotted me yet, and as I poked my head out

Realizing the hilarity of the early morning situation, the other three burst out laughing, and I too, in my near nakedness, burst out laughing as well. The arguing stopped, and low and behold an empty bus turned up at the same time. The bus driver noticing the situation joined in the laughter as well. The giggling old ladies got on the bus forgetting their previous argument and we all waved goodbye to each other, beginning an unforgettable start to all our days in the mountains of Korea.

(Published April 16th, 2010)

Women selling vegetables grown in their own farms ⓒRoger Allan Shepherd

028 029

Look Inside!

The Spine of the Korean Peninsula, Baekdudaegan Mountain Range The Baedudaegan Mountain Range refers to the string of mountains that runs down the middle of the peninsula beginning with Baekdusan Mountain and continues on to Geumgangsan, Seoraksan, Taebaeksan, Sobaeksan mountains and ends at Jirisan Mountain. As you can tell from the name, the core of the mountain range is Baekdusan Mountain. Koreans believe that all mountains of Korea were born from Baekdusan Mountain.

Baekdudaegan makes up the “spine” of the Korean peninsula. It stretches for a total of 1,400 km and the ten major rivers of Korea, including Dumangang, Amnokgang, Hangang and Nakdonggang, are said to source out from this mountain range.

Seoraksan Mountain ⓒKTO

Seoraksan Mountain ⓒKTO

Baekdudaegan Northern Region

Baekdudaegan Central Region

Baekdudaegan Southern Region

Being a divided nation, the northern

The spine of Korea stretches along

The last stretch of Baekdudaegan

most region that can be reached

the East Sea, and passed southern

ends at Jirisan Mountain. This

from Korea is Gangwon-do. When

Gangwon-do it bends inward

magnificent mountain rises

compared to the human body, it’s

to the southern provinces. The

1,916.88 m above sea level in the

about where the waist would be,

central region of the mountain

southern region of the peninsula.

hence, a much forested region.

range consists of Sobaeksan

Jirisan maintains the Yeongnam

The steep and forested peaks of

(1,439.5 m), Songnisan (1,058.48

and Honam regions of Korea

Seokraksan Mountain (1,707.9 m),

m), Hwangaksan (1,111.4 m),

m o i s t a n d fe r t i l e. Th e a re a s

and the beautiful five peaks of

Sambongsan (1,177 m) and

around Cheonwangbong Peak,

Odaesan Mountain (1,563.4 m) are

Deogyusan (1,614 m) mountains.

the highest in Jirisan Mountain,

the two representative mountains

The ridges of the central region

Nogodan Peak (1,507 m) and

of the province. The northern region

are softer, and less rugged than

Banyabong Peak (1,751 m), is very

of the Baekdudaegan Mountain

the northern region. The many

hilly and rugged. The 300-km-

Range boasts heavenly nature, and

beautiful valleys enriches the eco-

long Jirisan Dulle - gil Trail is

masculine ridges.

system of the central are of Korea.

very popular amongst local and visiting hikers.

Autumn in Geumgangsan Diamond Mountains ⓒKTO

030 | Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour | 031

548 km bike ride from Busan to Seoul,

thank you for the helmet-ful of Korean love

with the words “Busan Seoul” written on it. I had prepared for myself a construction workers’ helmet for people whom I’ll meet to write messages on it. In addition, the rest of the items I carried included a map (in Korean), a few additional sets of clothes to change into, a raincoat, and a camera.

18 Apr (Sun) I arrived at Busan Port. I had my breakfast at Jagalchi Market

and started off from there. The traffic rules here was different from Japan, so I felt a little lost in the beginning, whereby I had to get used to cars driving on the right-hand-side. Since I was a foreigner, I had a hard time reading the names of places in Korean. I am poor with directions, so I got lost from time to time, which wasted a fair bit of my time and energy. I stayed at Miryang-si that night.

19 Apr (Mon) I started off for Daegu. Since this was a country road, I didn't have to worry about getting lost. I was cycling enjoyably along a long row of Cherry Blossom trees lining the road. Going uphill was tough but going downhill was refreshing particularly for cyclists.

Eventually I stopped at a temple dedicated to Bhaisajyaguru (The Medicine Buddha), and I prayed for safety on the road. The ginseng chicken soup that I had for lunch was fantastic! I stayed in Daegu that night.

20 Apr (Tue) I was so hungry that I could not move, so I ate a full breakfast. Seeing that I was on a bicycle tour, the cafeteria stall owner gave me some extra meat at no extra cost, and gave me some homemade plum juice to drink whenever I got tired. Many people have given me directions this time round. The girl at S-OIL also gave me a cup of coffee. The taxi and bus drivers, road construction workers, and passerbys

Encouraging words written on the helmet I wore throughout the whole trip ⓒFujii Takashi

I’m a 54 year old Japanese engaged in outdoor activities based on the concept of “Creating memories of our lifetime!”. This time round, I went for a bicycle tour from Busan to Seoul. The total riding distance is 548 km, including additional distances cycled from getting lost and sightseeing.

17 Apr (Sat) To take the ferry to Busan, I cycled around 80 km from my home to Shimonoseki. I had a cardboard box strapped to my bicycle

Fujii Takashi 藤井孝司 Born 1956 in Japan, Takashi is a judge and consultant for the Japanese ISO. He wants to “make memories of life” by enjoying the great outdoors. He has climbed mountains in Japan as well as Korea including Seoraksan, Hallasan, Bukhansan, Sobaeksan, Geumjeongsan, Manisan mountains, and many more. In the spring of 2010, he rode his bike from Busan to Seoul, for a total of 548 km including getting lost a few times and stopping over for sightseeing. He sent us his diary of his week-long bicycle journey.

032 033

cheered me on with the Korean-style cheer “Fighting!”. A policeman called out “Ajeossi! (“Uncle” in Korean)” to me and stopped me for police questioning. ~(^^). All these encounters and verbal exchanges have made my journey enjoyable by many folds. I stayed over at Mungyeongsi that night.

21 Apr (Wed) Today I started off for Chungju-si. It was a one-lane road so I didn’t have to worry about losing my way, so I was relaxed. The Cherry Blossoms were in full bloom so it was really refreshing as I cycled. Since I was there, I stopped at the Suanbo Spa to wash my sweat away. Although it was just a short while more before I reached Chungju-si, I had a punctured tire. I asked around for people to guide me to the petrol station, bike shop, bicycle shop, and I had my tire replaced. Finally, my journey can continue. I stayed at a motel near the bicycle shop that night.

22 Apr (Thu) Distance-wise, it won’t be long before I arrive in Seoul.

However, I was scheduled to meet my friends on the evening of the following day so I decided to take my time as I walked. I went for a walk at Lotte World, and cycled slowly as I shopped. I stayed at a yeogwan (hotel) in Oksu-dong that night.

23 Apr (Fri) It was the last day of my bicycle tour. Today I set off for the heart of the city. I stopped by a park that had a bronze statue and reliefs carved with words declaring independence. My heart ached towards the sad history of Korea under the Japanese empire. I arrived at Seoul Station at noon. I decided to make this my last stop. I met up with my old friends in the evening, and my 7 day tour ended there. Although this tour lasted just a few days, it had created lifelong memories for me. I now keep the helmet that contained messages from everybody as my treasure.

Look Inside!

A Fantastic Riding Course, the 4 Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road As the cycling population in Korea is growing, the number of cycling roads is also growing. In the spring of 2012, the 1,757-km-long Four Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road (riverguide.go.kr) was developed as part of the Four Major Rivers Restoration Project. The cross-country road runs along Hanggang, Geumgang, Yeongsangang and Nakdonggang rivers and each riverside offers a unique view and atmosphere. Here I introduce the five major courses of the Four Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road.

Hangang River Cycling Track ⓒKTO

Yeongsangang River ⓒKTO

➊ Hangang River Cycling Road (Seoul)

➌ Geumgang River Course

➎ Nakdonggang River Course

This 146-km-long course from

This is a hardcore, 389-km winding

This 56 km course starts at the Ara

the Geumgang River Estuar y

course from the Nakdonggang

Hangang Floodgate and ends at

to the Daecheong Dam takes

Estuar y to the Andong Dam.

the Paldangdaegyo Bridge. Because

about 10 hours to complete.

From the Bakjingogae section in

it runs through downtown Seoul,

The golden reflection of the sun

Gyeongsangnam-do Province, you

it is easily accessible and ideal for a

on Baengmagang River seen

can see the entire Nakdonggang

quick ride anytime.

from atop Busosan Mountain is

River.

Estimated time 3 hours 40 minutes

magnificent. Passed Daecheong

Estimated time 25 hours 55 minutes

(Published August 27th, 2010)

Dam is Daecheongho Lake, which

Fujii Takashi's Tour Itinerary

➋ Hangang River Course

has a where you can also ride your

This 136 k m course includes

bike.

the 56 km of the Hangang River

Estimated time 9 hours 40 minutes

➊ ➋

Cycling Road and continues from Oksu-dong, Seoul (Apr. 22)• Arrive at Seoul Station (Apr. 23) Chungju (Apr. 21) Mungyeong (Apr. 20)

Korea

Daegu (Apr. 19) Busan (Apr. 18)

Japan

Depart Shimonoseki (Apr. 17)

the Paldangdaegyo Bridge to

➍ Yeongsangang River Course

the Chungju Dam. The highlight

This is a 133-km course from

of the Hangang River Course

Yeongsangang Estuary to the

is Bukhangang River Railroad

Damyang Dam. You can enjoy the cool

section, which runs along a

breeze and refreshing scent of trees in

460-m-long discontinued railway.

the Metasequoia-lined Road.

Estimated time 9 hours

Estimated time 8 hours 50 minutes

➌

➍

➎

034 | Jeju Olle Trail | 035

And Olle begins!

I returned to Jejudo Island in August, arriving from working in dynamic Seoul. My eyes were opened to Olle. I made my way across this incredible network of footpaths and trails and with each sunrise, becoming more

I received a precious gift from this earth,

enchanted with its dazzling landscape.

I feel 10 Years Younger thanks to the Olle trail

339 km of passion, a triumphant success and a testament to a people that are open to the world, looking at life with widened eyes and that never tire of continued renaissance.

Baksugijeong Cliifs ⓒShin Byeong-mun

Jejudo Island. Island of Delight.

From afar, a form; Closer, a collection of many things…

From within, a world!

On arrival to Jejudo Island, the metamorphosis begins; roots sprout from the feet, anchoring to the ancestral land and arms become the wings with which to navigate dreams; the senses are saturated, stimulated, dancing with curiosity. One is immediately made to feel part of this ancient, bewitching world and welcomed by its people, who live in the midst of its Arts. What matters here is the serene vision of reality, a reality that wants to understand the power and striking beauty of its imposing Nature.

It has been the sensibility, enthusiasm and sheer tenacity of enlightened minds that have made it all possible. Olle’s genesis stems from the sunny Suh Myung-sook, who everyone should have the chance to meet once, perhaps as I did along its meandering paths.

With sparkling inventiveness and wonderful childlike liveliness, in just three years she has stitched together extraordinary pieces of places and offers them now to us as a true gift from the earth.

It is she who has reawakened the word ‘Olle’, which in local dialect refers to the path between the street and one’s doorstep; it is an emotive threshold space that lies between the precious intimacy of home and the genuine need to feel part of society. The ‘Olleans’ have managed to retain this meaning and its intrinsic value while amplifying and opening up these spaces and places to the world.

In this era of mass individualism where one tends to travel more than staying put, Olle is a refreshing marvel of those who understand the value and sense of sharing and of reconnecting people with nature. Once inside

Davide Macullo Born 1965 in Switzerland. Macullo is a world-famous architect whose works have been exhibited in more than 10 countries. He has received many awards and recognitions including the top 15 architects of the world in 2010. His works in Korea include the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art and the Clubhouse at Jeju Phoenix Island. In April of 2011, he was invited to the Seoul National University for a special lecture. For more information on the architect or a list of his works visit his website (macullo.com).

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Oreum ⓒJTO

Jusangjeolli Cliff ⓒJTO

this wonderland, the uplifted spirit is embraced into a welcoming ancestral nest, like a bird creating a home about its feathered body, knowing it will return to familiar ground after the migration.

Olle in a day: Everything and anything can happen in a day and I had time to taste just an unforgettable flavour of some of its 16 trails: Listening to the touching stories about the island’s famous pearl diving women on the 7th trail, from genteel ladies watching over their grandchildren playing in the training pool; chatting with the fisherman; admiring the initiative of the people that opened charming guesthouses and B&Bs along the breathtaking coastline; spending the entire afternoon with Dong-soon, a friendly Golden Retriever that had escaped its enclosure to guide her new companions.

-relaxing in the calm atmosphere of the Seaes Hotel along the 8th trial and passing the off-the-beaten-track luxury resorts of the Shilla Jeju and Hyatt Regency Jeju, set in their fragrant forests and wet by the crashing waves of the sea; meditating in front of a magical view down over the volcanic rocks and out to the horizon; tentatively tasting the infinite variety of delightful rejuvenating dishes with newly made friends, sharing the only wizened fan in the world’s best smallest beachside kitchen in order to dry off the sweat of the long day’s walk; from there just a short walk to the fish café to watch the world go by from the ocean terrace of this deceptively simple teahouse and enjoying exquisite company and potent potions as guests of one the many well known Seoulites who have come to escape the pace of city life.

Rape flowers ⓒJTO

Jeju Olle Trail ⓒKTO

Oreum ⓒJTO

-walking across the green hills along the 10th trial, admiring the stunning view to the furthest island of Korea that tells the history of the first western people who came to live in this beautiful land; rummaging at the Moseulpo Port Market where tasting the fresh delights and delicacies of the smiling merchants enchants the senses; leaving the temple below and walking up the carefully tended, (seemingly infinite!) flight of steps at Sanbangsan Mountain, to reach Buddha’s rocky cave, carved out of the imposing mountain.

And more; walking along salty sandy beaches, beautiful volcanic landscapes and woods nestled in dreamy hills; passing the dedicated young boys pushing their fully clad girlfriends, dressed for an evening out, on floating sunbeds in the sea; visiting art museums, learning about Korean history in ethnographic villages, collecting souvenirs at the local markets and… horse riding, playing golf, boating, fishing, praying, singing and meeting great people.

Without really having understood why, I left convinced that I became 10 years younger.

Here, emerging from deep within the crust, the stacked masses of volcanic rock express the primeval tensions that created the earth. The glistening waves of the sea and the wispy folds in the sky channel the imagination to distant lands, to be tracked by curious minds.

The atmosphere is dense with an extraordinary energy and the majesty of the landscape teaches us about the respect and humility of people who know that harmony in nature is not replicable and that man too is part of its universe.

I was led to rediscover the roots of the tree of my childhood garden, my Mediterranean-Alpine oasis. I discovered a single root that stretches the globe, binding mine with the great tree of Jejudo Island.

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This lesson has stayed with me since my first trip here twenty years ago, and deeply influenced my life. I felt at home here, within the sensibilities of Korean culture, where nature holds its powerful force, even when placed by the gardener or portrayed by the painter.

Since then, I have reinforced the idea that my own buildings should be an extension of the senses of those who inhabit them.

Look Inside!

Jeju Olle Trail, a journey to the inside of Jejudo Island The current trend in Korea is walking tours. And the start of that trend was the Jeju Olle Trails. Instead of relying on the

And that is what Olle is.

A natural organism, alive and intuitive, one that becomes the extension of the senses. It is like having a long nose, enormous ears, eyes that see 3D, a huge mouth and the longest limbs for the strongest embrace.

No instructions needed. Just like for oneself, it is enough to know you exist.

Life can change while walking.

four wheels of the car, let your two feet discover the stories hidden in the winding trails. Become one with nature and the more you walk, the closer you will be to the inside. "Olle” is the Jejudo Island dialect for alley or street.

Follow the Jeju Olle Trail and circle the entire island Olle is representative walking trail of walking

Dombenanggol, which was dubbed the

that takes you through the entire island. It is a

garden of the gods; the splashing waves of

trail solely made for walkers, and you can walk

the ocean and the parting sea of Seogeondo

for as long as you want. In September 2007,

Island, these are just a few sites of nature.

Experiencing Olle recalls the landscapes occupied by the young Taesuk. In the film ‘3 Iron’ by Kim Ki-duk, the quiet protagonist Tae-suk sneaks into empty houses, not unlike the architect steals into his projects.

He lives clandestinely and carries out domestic chores to cover his stay.

That is until, when coming across a house he had believed to be deserted, he meets Sun-hwa, a beautiful but mistreated wife. The woman secretly

Course 1, which started in Siheung Elementary

Olle Passport

walk, to where you should sleep and eat, and

observes this strange tenant who moves about the house and between them they try to find a way to both belong. For Tae-suk, there begins a whole new journey in search of new spaces to occupy.

Perhaps Tae-suk asks if the charm and beauty of finding the right living spaces offers a way in which to find a true existence?

One course is about 15 to 18 km, and takes

boat schedules, phone numbers, etc. ask them

at least four hours to complete. Although it

anything you need to know

may seem a bit long, the beautiful view of the

[Jeju Olle] Web jejuolle.org Tel Service Bureau 064-

ocean, and unique villages of the island will

762-2190

School to Gwangchigi Beach in East Jejudo

People Who Help You Walk

Island, and as of October 2012, there are a

There is an Olle Information Desk at the Jeju

total of 25 courses that circle the entire island.

Int’l Airport. A local volunteer helps you walk the trial by providing any and all information you may need. From which course you should

ease all the pain and fatigue. A cute souvenir is the Olle Passport, which provides useful information of each course, and when you

The simplicity of living Olle calms the spirit.

Beauty is enough.

Seeing is forgetting and forgetting frees the mind.

For a brief moment, these thoughts can make a man feel he is at the centre of the world. (Published October 29th, 2010)

18-1

complete the course, you receive a stamp of

12

movies. The lush sea pines of Oedolgae Rock;

11

03 04

14-1 07-1 10

been featured in various Korean dramas and

02

Jejudo Island

Hallasan National Park

14

13

Port offers beautiful view of the beachside and ports. A number of sites in Course 7 have

17

15

Most Famous, Course 7

21 01

18

16

01-1

20

19

completion.

The course from Oedolgae Rock to Wolpyeong

Jeju Int’l Airport

09 10-1

08

07

06

05

040 | Hiking in Geojedo Island | 041

I’m from the United States, and I grew up in New England, where hiking is a joyous adventure shared by all generations. Before coming to Korea I was often too busy to spend any real time hiking. I had all but left it to youthful memories.

My passion for hiking was rekindled when I came here three years ago to teach at an Uber Genius kindergarten on Geojedo Island. Everywhere you look in Korea there are splendid mountainous ridges whose sharp silhouettes are a beautiful contrast to the green slopes and sunny skies.

These ridges called to me.

Originally, I would hike in the traditional manner of going up, enjoying a snack with my view, and hiking back down again. But, more and more, I wanted to this awesome experience to continue.

Over time, I developed enough knowledge of the paths and trails through the ridges on Geojedo Island that I was able to hike many hours a day. I often would spend the whole day on various trails, coming out of the woods just before dark. How thrilling it has been to trek along these peaceful trails past waterfalls, wildlife, rock face sculptures, wildflowers and ancestral graves. On these long treks, all my senses would become pleasantly exhausted.

My obsession to stay out longer grew to a point where I kept searching my maps for ways to put many trails together and maximize my time.

In this spirit, the Geoje Ridgeline Trail (G. R. T) was born. I founded

The Geoje Sanmaru-gil Road that I made,

you will be shocked

a trail that runs along a nearly continuous ridgeline. It combines three established hiking ridgelines that run from central Jangpyeong-dong, up over Gyeryongsan Mountain clear down to the southernmost summit of Mangsan Mountain. The total distance of this trail is 30 km (19 miles.)

Michael Eschenbach Born 1966 in the United States. He majored in film, and art collaboration, and has worked as English teacher at the Uber Genius English School in Geojedo Island since 2007. He loves nature and enjoys exploring the unexplored. He enjoy hiking and rock climbing in Korea.

Daesobyeongdaedo Island â“’Geoje-si

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The trail extends high up to where only the crows fly, and it brings the hiker a deep life perspective over five of the most prominent peaks on Geojedo Island. The highest peak, Garasan Mountain, offers views of Japan on clear days. In addition, it also runs past three fortress sites, two historical temple sites and one substantial ruin from the Historic Park of Geoje POW Camp located here during the Korean War. You can get aerial-like views of all major natural attractions on Geojedo Island: Samsung Shipping Industry, Haegeumgang Island of Geoje, Oedo Botania, Dongbaekseom Island, Windy Hill and Sinseondae Cliff film sites. You also see four of the island’s most beautiful beaches at different times during the hike.

The first time I attempted the G.R.T., I did it from South to North, and a friend walked with me in the rain up to the Mangsan Mountain summit at the Southern end. My friend advised me to wait for a better day to begin, but I was committed to do this trek end-to-end and turn my research and idea into reality. Donning full rain gear, I bid him farewell and left the wet and windy summit into the comfort of the darkened woods. I had 5 km to hike to get to where I wanted to camp for the first night. I was carrying much more gear than my normal hikes and that slowed me down a bit as I crossed over the first five peaks of the trail. I finally settled in the woods under some trees. The rains came five times that night, as I camped beneath tarp, but I managed to keep most of my gear from getting too wet. It was a bit unusual not to be home in a dry bed after a full day of hiking ridges, but I worked through my longing for home by planning out the next day.

By headlamp I glanced over my map and discovered that by going from South to North I was essentially going uphill most of the way, and that really nagged at me during the first part of the next day. The short connecting trail between Mangsan Mountain and the highest peak of Garasan Mountain turned out to be much tougher and longer with 45 pounds on my back. I had serious doubts about finishing the trail, and thought about giving up and trying it another day, but I thought about how far I had come and decided to continue.

I’ve since found that the second day of this hike is when you have to do the lion’s share of the work, so it is wise to assess how you’re doing physically and mentally.

Windy Hill in Geojedo Island is a popular filming location ⓒGeoje-si

044 045

After a snack and some water, I pushed on. It was Chuseok weekend and not many hikers were out. I did run into a mother and daughter, who offered me rice drink and traditional rice cakes. I heartedly accepted; it was great to eat food I didn’t have to carry, and to share time on Chuseok with them.

I covered more than 10 km that day, mostly uphill and carrying a lot of weight, but it was exhilarating, and the weather was brilliant. The storm clouds from the day before had blow away, revealing all of Geojedo Island’s natural beauty. Every labored step I took was rewarded with breathtaking views. I met a few more families also enjoying the day, but essentially I was alone with all this grand Korean landscape. The G. R. T. was as great as I thought it would be, and I couldn’t wait to share it with others.

After getting home, I wrote up a guide for the trail and made suggestions on how to accomplish it easily from both directions. I wanted to get the word out to Korean and international hikers and make this become a must-do hike in Korea. I have hiked Hallasan Mountain, Jirisan Mountain, and many more of the higher peaks in Korea, but the G. R. T., with its constant views of the sea and the challenge of hiking so many peaks in so little time, is thrilling mentally and physically. True hikers and outdoor enthusiasts will love it. It took a week to fully recover from the physical demand on my body but, two weeks later, I did it again, and only in Korea have I know this pure hiking joy. (Published December 10th, 2010)

Look Inside!

Every walker’s paradise, trail ways of Korea I first started my walking journey in 2007 at the Jeju Olle Trail. There are many beautiful and scenic walking trials in this country. Restored old trails, mountain trails like the ones in Bukhansan and Jirisan mountains, and the 600-km-long trail along the East Sea are trail built in recent years. On weekends, people walk and search for a new walking trail, and yet there are still many more hidden trails in Korea.

Jirisan Dulle-gil Road

Gangneung Bau-gil Road

First opened in April of 2008, as of May 2012,

Along with the Jeju Olle Trail and the Jirisan

the entire road has been opened to the public.

Dulle-gil Road, Gangneung-si’s Bau-gil Road

The Jirisan Dulle-gil goes around the entire

makes up the “Top 3 trails of Korea.” The 350

foot of Jirisan Mountain, which is Korea’s

km trail is divided in 19 courses, and goes

largest mountain, and the first mountain to

around Gangneung-si. The courses include:

become a national park. This 274-km-long

walk ing the old Daegwallyeong Road,

road is divided into 20 courses. This road is a

trekking along Seonjaryeong Ridge, walking

road of life, of self-reflection and pilgrimage. It

along Gyeongpoho Lake, strolling the beaches

is a journey of responsibility and a journey of

of the East Sea, and more.

fairness.

Web baugil.org

Web trail.or.kr

Bukhansan Dulle-gil Road The Bukhansan Dulle-gil Road is a representative trail of Seoul visited by more 10 million hikers every year. The 77-km trail circles Bukhansan National Park and Dobongsan Mountain.

The trail extends high up to where only the crows fly, and it brings the hiker a deep life perspective over five of the most prominent peaks on Geojedo Island.

Being the first mountain trail in Korea, it has been restored and renewed to become the eco-friendly trail that it is today. Each of the 21 course have a different theme and level of difficulty, so make sure to choose the one that suits you best.

Web ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil

Remains of the Geojedo POW Camp ⓒMichael Eschenbach

046 | Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea | 047

I was mesmerized by the sight of migratory birds I saw in Suncheonman Bay, Haenam In different months and in different seasons, the Korean landscape changes its colour and mood. Even though it is beautiful scenery, the different birds in the different habitats greatly enhance the beauty for me.

It was in January 1999 when I embraced the icy, cold wind of Korea for the first time, visiting the homeland of my wife. My relationship with Korea since then has been growing stronger and stronger because of Korea’s unique natural beauty.

I have been fascinated by birds since I was a little boy and I have spent all my life watching them in various places in the world. That’s why I was so excited to come to Korea, finding new birds; especially endemic far eastern species.

I started our trip at the Imjingang River and headed south along the western coast. This took us to areas such as Ganghwado Island, Gyeonggiman Bay, Namyangman Bay, Asanman Bay, Seosan-si and the Geumgang River estuary. From here we crossed to Haenam-gun, Suncheonman Bay on the south coast.

Martin Sutherland Born 1954 in London, Sutherland is an ecology research specialist. He married a Korean woman and together have a 10-year-old daughter. He is especially passionate about birds, and he traveled around the world as the leader of bird-watching tours. In London, he worked as the manager of a bird sanctuary, and a preservation center. He is currently collecting data for an environmental effects evaluation, and is studying the ecology of birds. Since his first visit to Korea in 1999 after getting married, he has returned many times with friends and for bird-watching.

Flock of Spectacled teals in Geumgang River ⓒKTO

048 049

I watched birds for a long time like I was nailed in one place. Huge numbers of waterfowl migrate to Korea for winter, to the vast areas of tidal flats and coastal lakes and rivers. The numbers of birds here are truly impressive with thousands of geese flying overhead and countless ducks including huge numbers of Baikal teal, looking like smoke from

As you know, Korea has many great areas for birding and its wetlands are of international importance for migrant shorebirds, which depend on the west coast mud flats for feeding up on their long and hard migrations, and for wintering wildfowl.

All these birds draw me back to Korea regularly. In different months and

a distance when in flight. Flocks of dainty little Saunder’s Gulls and, at one southern bay, a few relict gulls. At a dried river bed several painted snipe: one of the first winter records in Korea. Azure-winged magpies perching on branches in the early morning sun is another image fixed in my memory.…. I was absorbed with watching them.

in different seasons, the Korean landscape changes its colour and mood.

Even though it is beautiful scenery, the different birds in the different habitats greatly enhance the beauty for me. I hope that this unique Korean beauty will last for many generations to come because it is an important asset and will be more so in the future.

After the western coast and southern parts of Korea, I headed up to Junam Reservoir and across to the Nakdonggang River estuary then up the east coast via Guryongpo Port and north as far as Gangneung-si and Sokcho-si where I turned inland heading for Chuncheon-si and then down to Daegu.

Over the last decade, I have seen birding becoming a new leisure activity in Korea. There are several bird watching organisations and web sites where I can view posted photographs of birds sighted. I am delighted to see that Korean people are beginning to appreciate and enjoy their natural environment and appreciate what beauty there is there as a contrast with the extensive industrial and infrastructural developments in recent years.

I love the eastern coast, so different from the west and south. Every fishing harbour full of gulls including Glaucous gulls trying to find food around drying squid fields along the eastern coast, various divers, grebes, auks and murrelets on the sea. I was so absorbed by the birds here that my wife was complaining that I came here only for birding. My only excuse was that this first visit to Korea was too short. I was sorry for her, who was a real beginner at that time, having to manage the hard going all day long from dawn to dusk.

Birding was an unusual hobby in Korea all those years ago. Rather than just being a foreigner, wearing binoculars and wandering around the edge of wetlands attracted passers-by even more. Some people would ask what I was up to and expressed curiosity about what they could see through a telescope. Whenever I said that I was watching birds, most looked baffled saying “What birds? Are there any birds?” But as soon as they looked through the telescope, they were amazed with what they saw, beautiful birds feeding in a mud flat.

Flock of geese in Seosanman Bay ⓒMartin Sutherland

050 051

Wildlife tourism is very common in the UK. Many companies provide wildlife holidays to areas all over the world. In Asia popular destinations include India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, China, Thailand, Vietnam and Taiwan and so on. Many of these countries actively promote their wildlife attractions and eco-tourism in the UK. I think Korea has great potential (in terms of birds and infrastructure) to be well able to compete with these countries. With more positive promotion campaigns abroad, Korea should make more practical and realistic efforts than now towards the conservation of important habitats and avian biodiversity. It will be a good example of the “green growth” which Korea is pursuing. I hope that one day I will receive eco-tourism travel brochures in the UK showing destination to Korea.

When the icy cold wind returns, I would love to stand where I was before with my child to greet the winter birds, my old friends. My daughter often pesters us to visit Korea again. I am as keen on the idea as she is and especially miss the bird-rich bays and estuaries of the coasts.

(Published July 8th, 2011)

Look Inside!

A Restful Land, Korea’s Habitat for Migratory Birds Korea is a peninsula located south of the Siberian Shelf. This is why Korea has become a migratory route for birds, especially in the winter. In the ice cold days of winter, birds leave Siberia for warmer countries in the south, like Korea. Many rare birds can be seen Korea during the winter, here are some popular habitats for migratory birds.

Cheonsuman Bay

Suncheonman Bay

Cheonsuman is a large reclamation located in Seosan-

Suncheonman Bay is the must-visit site for eco-

si, Chungcheongnam-do. In 1979, it became a symbol of

tourists. Picture a tall field of reeds with a trail running

economic growth, for reclaiming land and turning it into

through the middle and the glowing sun setting

farmland, but today’s Cheonsuman Bay is more popular

on the back. This is the beauty of Korea’s nature.

as a habitat for birds. 327 species of winter migratory

Suncheonman Bay is one of the very few places

birds were discovered in Cheonsuman, and there are

where hooded cranes have been spotted wintering.

records of more than 600,000 birds seen on a single day.

Photographers and ornithologists from around the

Cheonsuman is especially known for spectacled teals.

world come to Suncheonman Bay for a chance to see

Close to 300,000 Baikal teals have been seen in Korea on

a hooded crane.

a single day, that’s about 90 % of the global population

Web suncheonbay.go.kr

of Baikal teal. Photographers and nature journalists

I watched birds for a long time like I was nailed in one place.

from around the world come to Korea in November to

Cheorwon Plains

photograph the herds of Baikal teals.

The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in Cheorwon-gun,

Web seosanbird.com

Gangwon-do, is where red-crowned cranes and eagles, both endangered species, winter. Red-

Geumgang Estuary

crowned cranes and eagles standing on snow-

Baikal teals were also spotted in Geumgang Estuary

covered fields is a site easily seen in Cheorwon-gun.

in Gunsan-si, Jeollabuk-do. As the winter days get

Located within the civilian passage control line, they

colder, by December the Baikal teals fly further south

have strict entrance rules. Prior notice must be given

to the Geumgang River, and finally all the way south to

to the military base. Cheorwon-gun operates a bird-

Yeongamho Lake in Haenam-gun, or to Junam Reservoir

watching bus from December to February.

in Changwon-si. The high waters of the Geumgang

Web tour.cwg.go.kr

River and the lush fields of reeds are an ideal habitat for migratory birds. The city of Gunsan built a bird watching facility in the estuary in 2003, and hosts a migratory bird festival every year.

Web gmbo.kr Hooded cranes in Suncheonman Bay ⓒKTO

052 | Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain | 053

A life spent falling in love with the four seasons of Namsan Mountain, a life already 21 years old

I joined Hyatt International in 1983 and worked in Dubai and New Zealand for 8 years as a general manager. After that I was transferred to Grand Hyatt Seoul in March, 1991. Although I had visited Asia before, I had been to Korea only once. Since then, I have grown increasingly close to Korea over the years. I can say there are many reasons that I love Korea but in particular I enjoy the passion of its people, the outstanding Korean food, and my life blood and source of rejuvenation, Namsan Mountain.

N Seoul Tower ⓒKTO

When I travel the world, I always head to the local observatory located in the heart of the city, first. By standing on the observation deck, I can recognize my location and attain a feel for the city’s layout and atmosphere through the observatory’s panoramic view.

When I arrived in Korea I was immediately surprised by the number of mountains. In the case of Seoul, the Hangang River passes through the

Peter Walshaw Born 1952. Walshaw first entered Hyatt International in 1983. He started as the general manager of the Hyatt Regency in New Zealand, then moved to the Hyatt Regency Dubai, then to the Hyatt Regency Auckland, and in 1991 came to the Hyatt Regency Seoul. In 1994 he was the Hyatt International “Manager of the Year.” As of 2012, he is the vice president of the North Asia region of Hyatt Hotels Corporation, and general manager of the Grand Hyatt Seoul and three other Hyatt hotels in Korea and two in Micronesia.

054 055

center of the city and is surrounded by mountains, so nature and the urban environment here, both live in an exquisite harmony. Namsan Mountain is located only 265 m above sea level, so it doesn’t seem that high. But when I first hiked to the top of the mountain, a dramatic, scenic panorama came into view that I hadn’t expected. Namsan Mountain itself is the greatest

Tower with a cool wind at my back, I always marvel at the spectacular skyline of the city.

observation point for the city, and N Seoul Tower, perched on its summit, is the perfect place to take in the entirety of Seoul. From there, you can have an unobstructed, 365 degree view of the city.

cherry blossoms in spring and hear the sound of rippling water, filled with the sounds of the lush forest in summer. In the fall, the autumn leaves turn into a palette of red, yellow and green colors. There is this beautiful road with different colors every season, with some of the most impressive scenery I have ever witnessed. The castle road can present you with a perspective of Korean history and culture. I especially enjoy the panoramic views from the castle road overlook, with its views of the city of Seoul. A little further away, you can discover the Namsangol Hanok Village and Chungmuro station. It takes about 3 hours. That’s not an easy walk, but well worth the effort. A few years ago I used to take walks with my dog. When I reached Chungmuro station, I would have to take a taxi home because the dog was exhausted.

I hiked Namsan Mountain for the first time in March 1991 although at that time there was only limited access to the mountain as most of the area was closed off to the public. Since then walking paths and parks have been added which has made it an ideal place for recreation and walking in a wonderful, natural and peaceful environment.

I love Namsan Mountain as much as anyone and I feel very lucky to live in such a nice environment. I often think “what can we do for Namsan Mountain?” Hyatt International has annually held a special event and campaign called ‘Staff Day’. We are always engaged in Namsan Mountain preservation programs. Every year 200 employees walk to the top of Namsan Mountain to clean the grounds. A few years ago we replaced the steel structures supporting the trees and planted new trees.

Namsan Mountain is changing day by day. Namsan Mountain has become a resting place for people in Seoul with its well-maintained trails, wild roses, lush trees and other amenities. There are an ever increasing number of people who take walks or go trekking. I usually enjoy hiking the mountain from Grand Hyatt Seoul to N Seoul Tower, as the hotel is directly connected via a bridge to the wildflowers park. Going along the red asphalt road, I can often spot rabbits and pheasants in the wildflower park. There are constantly visible changes of the season at Namsan Mountain all the time, such as the cherry blossoms in the Spring, the autumn leaves in fall and the beauty of nature year round. After hiking around the mountain, I can quench my thirst with a drink of water from the natural, mineral-water spring, which is an excellent relief to both physical and mental stress. When I’m standing at the top of N Seoul

Going to the opposite side of N Seoul Tower, I can see the north circular road leading to the castle road. I can smell the scent of lilacs and

If someone asks me what my favorite Korean food is, since I have been living in Korea for 20 years, I definitely say that I love doenjang jjigae and sticky rice.

Doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) ⓒPeter Walshaw

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After I go on a hike, I always have doenjang jjigae (된장찌개). If someone asks me what my favorite Korean food is, since I have been living in Korea for 20 years, I definitely say that I love doenjang jjigae and sticky rice. I usually order it for lunch or dinner when I eat Korean food or BBQ. The bean paste smells really wonderful in doenjang jjigae. When I taste just a bit, I can distinguish between homemade doenjang jjigae and the supermarket versions. What I order from the menus reflects just how much I know about Korean Culture.

Look Inside!

Namsan Dulle-gil Road & Seoul Fortress Wall Road Only about 260 m above sea level, Namsan Mountain has two pleasant walking trails: the quiet Dulle-gil Road that hugs Namsan Mountain, and the Seoul Fortress Wall Road, which trails along Seoul Fortress. As you walk the trails of

I would say that the greatest attraction of my profession has been the opportunity to travel the world, meet different people and experience their culture. From the day I first arrived in Korea, I was attracted to the country, even to this date. Korea has become a second home to me. My life and source of rejuvenation, Namsan Mountain, means a lot to me. By going to Namsan Mountain, I can look at Seoul’s history and culture, as well as its rapid growth and transition. I still hike Namsan Mountain and drink in its energy, every day I am in Korea. (Published October 14th, 2011)

Namsan Mountain, you will find yourself immersed in the generosity and energy of this beautiful mountain.

Seoul Fortress Wall ⓒLee Gang-deok

Namsan Dulle-gil Road Centered on N Seoul Tower, this is road circles

circling Hanyang. The fortress wall runs along

the mountain. In 2011 the entire Namsan

the ridgelines of Bugaksan, Inwangsan and

Mountain became car-free, which meant that

Namsan mountains, and through the reigns

all driving roads became pedestrian walkways.

of Kings Sejong and Yeongjo, the wall got

There are 15 entrance ways to Dulle-gil Road,

stronger and tougher. This 600 year old

among them, the Myeong-dong Station

fortress wall was heavily damaged during the

(Subway Line 4) entrance by the Namsan

Japanese Rule, but parts of it still remain and

Public Library, and the Dongguk Univ. Station

have been restored. The Namsan Mountain

(Subway Line 3) entrance by the National

zone on the south, starts at Sungnyemun

Theater of Korea are the most crowded. A

Gate and continues to Baekbeom Plaza

bus runs through the section between the

Jung-geun Memorial Hall

Namsan Public Library and the National

Photo Island

Theater of Korea, but that is the only section

Tower

that allows vehicles. The Namsan Dulle-gil is

of Korea

7.6 km long and it takes about 2.5 hours to

about 3 hours to reach the peak and come

complete.

down. If you go back to the Dongdaemun

Palgakjeong Pavilion

Pine Tree Trail

Ahn

Jamdubong Peak N Seoul

National Theater

Jangchung Gymnasium. It takes

direction from Namsan Mountain, going

N Seoul Tower is located in the heart of a colorful city ⓒvisitseoul.net

Seoul Fortress Wall Road

around the Seoul Fortress Wall Road, you can

Founder of the Joseon Dynasty, King Taejo

see National Treasure No. 8, as well as 168

built the capital in Hanyang, today’s Seoul.

cultural heritage sites.

And in 1396 he built an 18 km fortress wall

058 | Photo Journey of Korea | 059

The intoxicating orange light from the rising sun, I had fallen in love with the East Coast

The cool breeze is sweeping in off of the water. The symphony of the sea's waves lap up to the shore, coupled with the various sea birds' singing to greet the morning's light is a truly peaceful time. The climax of the sun breaking the horizon is both haunting and empowering. Land of the Morning Calm you say? I for one concur.

I love to travel. When I first came to Korea, one of the first things I did was to buy a camera. I wanted to document the history and culture of Korea during this wonderful chance that I had. When the time came, I realized that one year was not long enough. I needed more time. After all, I hadn't even been outside of Seoul's city limits. I couldn't believe how big a city Seoul was, and how easy it was to spend an entire year in the city, until I realized I had spent 2 full years without having ventured outside the green #2 subway loop.

Leigh MacArthur Born 1974 in Canada. MacArthur has been teaching English in Korea since 2003. He currently lives in Samcheok-si, and since 2007, he’s been teaching photography. He has a number of photos that were featured in magazines in Korea and abroad, and a few works have received international recognition. He is an active member of the Seoul, Korea City Hall Circle of photographers. You can see photos by MacArthur at his website (leighmacarthur.com).

Sunrise over the East Sea â“’Leigh MacArthur

Yet, I was hooked. The amount of history, culture, and wonderful welcoming people that one can experience within walking distance of any line #2 subway station is amazing. Something was missing. I didn't want my entire Korean experience to be a Seoul experience. I knew there was more to the country. So I garnered up enough courage to leave the comfortable English confines of the big city and explore. At the same time, I was attempting to teach myself a new set of skills, in photography.

My quest of learning the craft of photography has since taken me all over the country, exploring, trying to find those once in a lifetime shots.

In my travels, I have met a lot of great people. It's the people that make a country great. It's the people that you remember about a place. It's the people that make you remember events like they were yesterday.

I remember my first day in Korea like it happened last week, it really happened just over 8 years ago. It's the people that make me want to photograph this wonderful country in all its wonder and grandeur to show off to the world, and to prove to myself that Seoul alone is not Korea, and Korea is not only Seoul. It was suggested that with all of my travels around the country that I could write about and share my favorite places that I have photographed. I thought to myself, "Well, that's going to be easy. I have such great memories of so many of my trips that I could easily fill a book's worth of material." Oops, how wrong I was.

060 061

For this article, I wanted to choose one place and give to it what it deserves: a well thought out, detailed story and explanation of why I love this area of Korea. When I started to think about which place it could be, there were just too many...

I live in a city called Samcheok-si. Samcheok-si, is known for 2 things, really. One... the caves. Hwanseongul Cave is the largest limestone cave in Asia. Considering the size of Asia, and the number of mountains and caves in Asia, it is an impressive title to have. All in all, there are about 55 caves located within Samcheok-si's city limits, giving it the

Gyeongju-si. Check. Busan's Haeundae. Check. Seoraksan Mountain.

Check. Gangneung's Gyeongpodae Pavilion and Jeongdongjin. Check and check. There have been a lot of festivals, too. I could fill an entire article listing the festivals alone.

nickname "Cave City". The second thing that Samcheok-si is known for is Haesindang Park, or as it's lovingly known in some foreigner circles as "Penis Park". Haesindang Park really has become quite popular, not only with tourists but with travel and lifestyle magazines all over the world, as 2 European magazines have contacted me personally about using my photos of the park, and I'm sure there are a lot of other photographers who have come and had their photographs published as well. Those are great places, and very much worth a 3-4 day vacation, to come to see.

The green tea festival in Boseong-gun... It was raining and foggy, and underestimating the popularity of the event, my accommodations were far from pristine, so for me, it was a perfect recipe to be a disaster, and make me miserable. I did manage to accomplish two things. First, I was lucky enough to capture, one of my all time favorite photographs.

Second, Boseong-gun managed to become one of my favorite places in all of Korea. It was refreshing just to be there. I felt healthier just being there. I wanted to come here every chance I got. I still do.

Boseong-gun is one of those places that is popular all year round except maybe in winter, (luckily for me) with Koreans and foreigners alike.

For me, they were the selling points, they got me out here, those two and remembering the strange looking trees that lined the main street.

That was 4 years ago. It's the little things that has kept me here, and has secured my desire to stay and share Samcheok-si with the world.

Samcheok-si has probably one of the widest varieties of scenery and weather in the world all within a 20 km radius. You can experience spring, summer, autumn, winter, sun, snow, rain, typhoons, thunderstorms, rainbows. There are sandy beaches between rocky shores on one side,

One of my goals is to share the lesser known areas of the country.

and mountains, streams, waterfalls, caves, and farmland on the other side.

Deer, boars, and the occasional cow running around free, not to mention

This br ings me to Gangwon-do. After 4 years of living and working in Seoul, I felt it time for a change. That need for change led me to remember a time when I had visited Sokcho-si and how relaxing the morning was, as I sat on the boardwalk in Daepo Port, with my coffee, watching the fishing boats return with their catches. Earlier that morning, I had been watching the sunr ise from Sokcho Beach, and the power of that first blast of orange light was intoxicating.

I had to land a job on the east coast. It really didn't matter where, it just had to be on the east coast. I love it here.This is my home.This is why I love Korea.

Chuam Beach â“’Leigh MacArthur

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the sheer number of birds that call this area home, as well as the number of birds that stop here for a break while migrating.

Look Inside!

Living here coupled with my enjoyment of photography has given me a much greater appreciation for nature. I can't think of many other places

Leigh’s Favorite Places to Take Landscape Photos

where if I turn left going out of my front door I could be at the seashore in 5 minutes, or if I decide to turn right, I'd be in the mountain forests looking at a waterfall in those same 5 minutes. This is why I love Korea.

This brings me to the people. As I stated earlier, it is the people that make the biggest impressions in our daily lives. The people here have been unbelievable. There have been many times that I have forgotten that I'm a foreigner and a visible minority. Even though I can, after 8 years, barely string a sentence together in Korean, I am treated like family.

This is why I love Korea. One day last year, there was a rather amazing rainbow in the sky as the local baseball team that I play with was having practice. One of my teammates asked me what I was looking at.

I said while pointing to the sky "That rainbow."

He looked up for about 2 seconds and said "Oh."

The landscape of Korea changes with the seasons. Flowers bloom, grass gets greener, tree leaves redden and snow piles. And then again, flowers bloom. The ever changing phases of nature whisper an unforgettable story to its viewers. Leigh MacArthur’s camera captured the beautiful landscape of Korea.

Chuam ⓒKTO

it's huge!"

He said nonchalantly, "This is Samcheok-si. We get rainbows all the time."

A coastal cliff, clean and clear

fields of winter, and the sprouting

of crystal clean water sourcing

waters of the East Sea, and

green leaves of spring create

from Dutasan Mountain trickles

sparkly white sand is what make

a picture perfect scene for the

down unique rock formations and

Chuam Beach special. The pointy

camera.

mossy rocks. The sparkly clear

Chotdaebawi Rock, literally

Address 1288-1 Bongsan-ri, Boseong-

waters flowing through Mureung

eup, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do

Valley keep shutters busy. This is a

spot amongst photographers.

Every morning, a long line of photographers stand on the shore waiting for their chance to capture the glowing sun rising over Chotdaebawi Rock.

Address 26 Chotdaebawi-gil, Donghae-

This is why I love Korea. He's right. Because of all of the geographical features, and weather patterns, Samcheok-si does seem to get an abnormal amount of rainbows.

si, Gangwon-do Web gangwon.to

Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation Tea trees draw an outline along the foot of the mountain. Daehan

Every single one, that I've seen, has blown me away. Personally, I have always associated rainbows with special places. This is definitely one of those special places.

This is why I love Korea. (Published October 28th, 2011)

Boseong Tea Farm ⓒKTO

Chuam Beach

Candlestick Rock, is a favorite

I said, excitedly waving my hands in an arching motion, "Look at that,

Mureung Valley ⓒKTO

Dawon, the countr y ’s largest green tea plantation is located

Web dhdawon.com

Gyeongju Rapeseed Flowers In the millennial city of Gyeongju, even spring makes a dramatic entrance. Silla’s Banwolseong Fortress is covered in bright yellow rapeseed flowers. The beautiful site of pink cherry blossoms filling the air above bright yellow rapeseed flowers can only be seen for about 2 weeks in mid-April guide.

Address 387-1 Inwang-dong, Gyeongjusi, Gyeongsangbuk-do Web gyeongju. go.kr

in Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Province. Lush green tea fields

Mureung Valley

show off their gentle beauty all

This valley re s e m b l e s China’s

year round. The snow-covered

Mureungdowon Paradise. A stream

true photographer’s paradise.

Address 859 Samhwa-dong, Donghae-si, Gangwon-do Web dhtour.go.kr

064 | Tour of Ulleungdo Island | 065

Which is the most impressive place in your trip to Korea? During the three and a half years I have lived in Korea, I am always asked the above question when I say my hobby is travelling, and my answer is “Ulleungdo Island”. Ulleungdo Island is a well known island but not many people have actually been there. A boat trip from Pohang-si in Gyeongsangbuk-

When you’ve missed the last boat,

that’s when you get to see the generosity of Ulleungdo Island

do Province for about three hours gets you there. Ulleungdo Island is the 9th largest island in Korea.

I came to know about the charm of this island in cold winter, 2002.

During my language study in Korea, I came to join “Ulleungdo camp” as the only foreigner among 60 other Korean students after I learned about the camp from a bulletin board at the university. Departing from Seoul in the middle of night, I felt like I was a dead person when I arrived on the island after changing buses and boats for one and a half days. But the landscape before me blew away such exhaustion. The island seemed to remain naturally pristine and wild as if time had stopped, which made all of us fascinated. I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of nature, looking at the sunrise from Seonginbong Peak, which becomes a silvery universe covered in white snow. I was impressed by the color and size of the fiery sunset walking along the beach.

Muroya Madoka 室谷圆

Ulleungdo Island ⓒKTO

Born 1981 in Japan, Madoka Muroya studied International Development in college and researched the regional cultures of Korea. Her first visit to Korea was in 2002 for a 6-month language learning program.

She returned to Japan with unpleasant mixed feelings and unpleasant experiences of Korea, but in 2008, she came back to further study the cultural exchange between Korea and Japan. She has worked at the Busan International Film Festival and the Korea-Japan Festival, and as of 2012, is in charge of the Japanese website of the Global U-tourism Team of the Korea Tourism Organization.

066 067

8 years later, I came to work in Korea and visited this island again on the tour for Koreans with my Japanese girlfriend during my leave at work. In 8 years, there has been a bit of change such as a few more stores occupying the center of the island and improved transportation to tourist attractions but time was passing ever so slowly and nature has remained the same as before. The changing colors of leaves was in full swing so the mountains were ablaze with many different colors and we could enjoy clean fresh air to our satisfaction.

One day, we stopped by a restaurant operated by an old couple and there were already some islanders. We decided to go to another restaurant as there were no spaces left but people squeezed, squashed and offered us seats. Although it was tight and crowded I felt like being in a family gathering.Young ladies in the crowd proposed Ulleungdo Island’s famous pumpkin makgeolli: a fermented alcoholic rice drink and we toasted together. We could enjoy a delicious meal surrounded by a warm and friendly atmosphere as if we were with our old friends.

Ulleungdo Island’s beautiful landscape is well known to Koreans and we could meet a lot of tourists everywhere. We often met middleaged tourists on a group tour laughing and talking loudly wherever we went. It is quite natural that many people gather in nice places but I felt too much noise without considering others was a bit unpleasant. Once I lined up for a rest room, but a couple of people from a group cut in before me, which made my eyebrows go up.

It seemed that they had their company in front but I was not very pleasant because they never asked for my understanding. For everyone to have a pleasant trip, I felt that thoughtful conderation about others and keeping orders are essential.

Snow covered winter in Ulleungdo Island ⓒMuroya Madoka

I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of nature, looking at the sunrise from Seonginbong Peak, which becomes a silvery universe covered in white snow.

068 069

I think the joy of a travel is a pleasant happening involving others at an unknown place. However, when I was told that the boat could not depart from Ulleungdo Island, I began to regret the trip and reflected upon my life, fearing that I would not be able to leave the island. Nonetheless this gave me a chance to know more about Ulleungdo Island and to make friends with the owner of the lodging place who gave us a discount on the room rate of our extended stay. I think I felt a real affection which you can find only in Korea by drinking together and sharing love stories with women staying at the same lodging at night. I would like to continue my travelling in Korea in future in the search of a new encounter and to share such experiences with many people.

Look Inside!

Ulleungdo’s neighboring island, Dokdo “200-ri southeast of Ulleungdo Island, is a lonely island home to migratory birds.” This is a song that almost every Korean will know. "Dokdo Island is Our Land." Dokdo Island is the easternmost territory of Korea, and on a clear day, it’s visible from Ulleungdo Island.

(Published January 27th, 2012)

Dokdo Island ⓒKTO

Dokdo Island, a Treasure Trove of Island Ecology Dokdo Island is a volcanic island composed of

of King Sejong), written in 1454, that Dokdo

Dong-do (East Isle) and Seo-do (West Isle), and

is Korean territory. Also in 1900, during the

89 rock islets. It has a total area of 187,554 m ,

Korean Empire, officials declared that Dokdo

and it is a nature preservation area designated

Island is Korean territory. And finally in

as Natural Monument No. 336 of Korea. It

1948, with the establishment of the Korean

has a mild maritime climate with average

government, Dokdo Island was given the

annual temperatures of 12 ℃. On a clear day

official address of “1 Do-dong, Nam-myeon,

it can be seen from Ulleungdo Island, and as

Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do.”

2

a migratory route of birds, fork-tailed petrels, black-tailed gulls, kestrels, Chinese egrets and a number of other birds can be seen on the island. Over 60 different types of plants and more 130 species of insects make up Dokdo Islands’ ecosystem.

How to Tour Dokdo Island The tour of Dokdo Island begins in Ulleungdo Island. It takes about two hours from Ulleunghang Port to Dokdo Island, and a boat with a capacity of 400 passengers runs from Ulleungdo Island to Dokdo Island many times

Ulleungdo Island ⓒMuroya Madoka

Dokdo Island in History

throughout the day. Due to the unstable

It was first introduced in Korean history

maritime climate, about half the time the port

in AD 512, when Silla’s General Isabu

is closed. But, on clear days, the sounds of

conquered the island, which was formerly

seagulls, the emerald green waters, the rocky

the autonomous nation of Usanguk. It is

island and much more will draw a picture in

recorded in the Sejong Sillok (Royal Annals

your eyes that will never be erased.

Heritage of Korea

070 071

Onrie Kompan

Marco Ienna

General Yi Sun-sin

Taekwondo

–

–

Tony Wheeler

G. Santhasiri

Panmunjeom & the DMZ

Templestay

–

–

Mary Jane Liddicoat

Kogure Makoto

Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul

The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain

Tr a d i t i o n & H i s t o r y Jeonju Hanok Village ⓒShin Byeong-mun

072 | General Yi Sun-sin | 073

General!

I get very emotional seeing you standing in the middle of Seoul with a big sword

Bronze statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin in Gwanghwamun Plaza ⓒKTO

A few years ago, I was introduced to the KBS drama THE IMMORTAL YI SUN-SIN. After watching it, I was so inspired that I wanted to share this story with everyone I knew.

However, the TV show was very difficult to find in the US and a lot of people I knew found it very hard to follow. And so I set off to retell Yi Sun-sin’s story as a comic book so that people could pick it up easily.

I chose to do this as a comic book because I had a life long passion for working in this medium. American comics are known for stories that have a strong emphasis on super heroes. However, within the last 10-15 years, the industry has evolved and different genres have become more popular within the medium.

In light of stories such as Frank Miller’s 300, I decided that the American audience may find Yi Sun-sin’s story to be interesting if it was presented to them in an entertaining way.

I knew that if I was going to do this that it had to be done right. I needed the best artists that the industry had to offer. But before that, I needed to do a ton of research.

Korea has always been a fantastical place for me. I had visited once before when I studied taekwondo in 2000 and really enjoyed it. I finally went back 8 years later and am now planning by third trip.

When I first began researching YI SUN-SIN: WARRIOR AND DEFENDER, I knew that I would eventually have to journey there in order to learn more about the country and its national hero.

For two years, I had very vivid dreams of one day standing before the famous statue of Yi Sun-sin in Seoul and actually stepping inside an actual turtle ship. I was anxious to learn more about where Admiral Yi came from and how he lived his life.

Two long years went by and my dream finally came true. It took me about six months to figure out the most essential things I needed to see on my trip. The Korean Tourism Organization in Chicago helped me work out all of the logistics. I couldn’t even believe that this was all really happening. Even though I was traveling alone, I was very excited to finally enter the world I had spent years reading about.

In just 14 days, I traveled to almost every essential destination in Korea pertaining to Yi Sun-sin, as well as other essential moments in Korean history. I visited Seoul, Jinhae-si, Asan-si, Jinju-si, Busan, Andong-si, and finally returned back to Seoul.

I stood on top of a huge mountain in Yeosu-si overlooking the entire village thinking of what life was like in this very place 400+ years ago.

I wondered the same thing as I stood under the Sebyeonggwan Hall (the very place where the Korean Navy trained during the Imjin WarJapanese Invasion of Korea in 1592).

I was there. In the moment. Absorbed by total peace and tranquility.

I breathed nothing but fresh mountain air in the Soraksan Mountain.

Smelled the wheat harvest in Yeosu-si. It took me no time at all to truly put myself in the shoes of my case study. It was amazing!

Onrie Kompan Onrie Kompan (26) is a young man from the U.S. who was deeply touched by the General Yi Sun-sin. He wrote a 12 volume comic book about the life of General Yi, and for that he came to Korea for 14 days. He said he’s writing this comic book because he believes General Yi is a true hero. He says he’s willing to go anywhere if it is related to the General.

074 075

Every crevice of Korea had something fresh and unique to offer. Whether it was watching the sunrise in the port town of Jinhae-si, marveling at the beauty of the of the Bulguksa Temple, or feeling the strong Siberian winds as they beat down on Sokcho-si. It was all very thrilling!

Seoul is by far one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited in my life.

It is so much cleaner than Chicago yet jam-packed with kiosks and food stands and gorgeous architecture that is known only to Korea.

Every time I visit this Korea, it leaves me breathless and wanting more. I was there for only 14 days but could have easily stayed much longer.

Nothing was more rewarding though than actually standing before the Yi Sun-sin statue in Seoul.

When I first saw it, I felt like I had discovered a rare treasure. I’ll never forget what it was like to finally be standing before it.

I felt the same way as I entered the military base of the Republic of Korea Navy and saw a large Geobukseon replica docked at the port. As I stepped inside, I imagined what it was like when soldiers were crammed inside going off to war under Admiral Yi’s command. It was a dream come true.

While visiting these different villages and living my dreams, I met some very interesting people including the ancestor of Ryu Seong-ryong (a political ally of Yi Sun-sin during the Imjin War). I remember having coffee with him in his home. He had never been to Chicago, which is where I’m from, but was very familiar with it.

Korea’s people take great pride in their history and culture. They are what make this wonderful country worth visiting. They have very proper and respectful etiquette and I have an immense amount of appreciation for their devotion to native tradition. I’m grateful to them for being so welcoming to foreigners.

I am forever changed from my frequent visits to Korea. It is a very charming country filled with so much history and culture and I’m truly blessed to be able to do venture out and see it.

I now plan to attend the Yi Sun-sin festival this year and am very excited about it. I will be visiting Korea again in May 2010 in order to celebrate Yi Sun-sin’s birthday and will have plenty of copies of my book on hand.

The first two chapters of my book will be available for purchase and I’m really looking forward to sharing it with Korea.

I really hope that they will enjoy it! (Published October 14th, 2010)

Look Inside!

A Journey Following the Life of Admiral Yi Sun-sin Along with King Sejong the Great, who invented the Korean alphabet, Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545—1598) is the most respected Korean figure. During the Japanese invasion of 1592, he built the turtle-shaped warship called the Geobukseon, and drove out the enemy, and he also lead the country to many victories. The life of the admiral continues from Seoul, all the way to Namhae.

Hyeonchungsa Shrine The house where Yi lived after he

Joseon Dynasty moved in to what

death, November 19 of the lunar

got married and the shrine that

used to be the Admiral’s command

calendar. One of the more popular

preserves Yi’s memorial tables

post. Geobukbawi Rock (Turtle

relic sites of Yi is Jeseungdang

are located here. Hyeonchungsa

Rock) and Janggunbawi Rock

Hall, the naval base during the

Shrine was built in 1706 to

(General’s Rock) can still be seen in

Japanese Invasion of 1592.

commemorate Yi’s significant

Sado Island, an island in the front

Address [Changnyangmyo Shrine] 8 Dang-

contributions to the history of

waters of Yeosu.

dong, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-

Korea. Every year on April 28,

Ad d re s s [Jinnamgwan Hall(J e o l l a

the day he was born, a memorial

jwasuyeong Shipyard)] 471 Gunja-

ser vice is held in the family shrine. Inside the museum are the

dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do, [Sado] Hwajeong-myeon, Yeosu-si, Jeollanamdo Web ystour.kr

‘Nanjungilgi,’ a war diary he kept

Myeongjeong-dong, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do, [Yi Sun-sin Park] 683 Jeongnyang-dong, Tongyeongsi, Gyeongsangnam-do, [Jeseungdang H a l l ] Ye o m h o - r i , H a n s a n - mye o n , Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do

for 7 years during the Japanese

Tongyeong

Invasion of 1592 (Imjin War), the

To n g y e o n g - s i i s w h e r e t h e

sword, the blueprints for the

Admiral’s achievements shone

Geobukseon battleship, and more.

the brightest. The Admiral died

Address 100 Baegam-ri, Yeomchi-eup,

in 1598 during the naval battle of

Asan-si, Chungcheongnam-do

Noryang. The very next year, the

Web hcs.go.kr

do, [Chungnyeolsa Shrine] 213

grieving people of Tongyeong-

Yeosu

si built a thatch-roof shrine called

In 1591, the Admiral was appointed

Changnyangmyo Tomb to honor

Jeollajwado Sugunjeoldosa,

his patriotism. Also in Tongyeong-

commander-in-chief of the

si is the Yi Sun-sin Park, which

western Jeolla area, to Yeosu-

houses a large bronze statue of

si. Here he began to build his

the Admiral, and Chungnyeolsa

famous Geobukseon battleship,

Shrine, which has the Admiral’s

and trained his army. In later years,

relics, and where memorial rites

Jinnamgwan Hall, the naval base of

are still held on the date of his

Web utour.go.kr

Hadong-Sancheong Baeguijang gun-ro (Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s Historical Path of fight in a war as an enlisted man)

In 1597, Yi was falsely accused and removed from his post. According to records in ‘Nanjungilgi’ (War Diaries of Yi Sun-sin), he walked an 18 km hiking trail from Hadong-gun to Sancheong-gun while serving in the war as a common soldier. You can follow the trail and feel the Admiral’s compassion for his country.

Address Danseong-myeon, Sancheonggun, Gyeongsangnam-do

076 | Panmunjeom & the DMZ | 077

Some places in the world you only see from one side. You look in one direction or the other, up or down, east or west, but never in both direction. So from North Korea you can look south or from South Korea look north, not many people can try both views. I’ve been very fortunate to gaze across the DMZ in both directions. I’ve travelled down

Ah, so heart breaking!

Only a few steps separate the south to the north

to the DMZ from Pyongyang and looked across to the south, and up to the DMZ from Seoul and looked across to the north.

Many years of intensive travel have taken me to many other strange borders and dividing lines. In 1972 I crossed the border from Pakistan to India, the conflict between the two countries which led to the birth of Bangladesh had ended less than 12 months earlier and relations between the two countries were still raw. In 1972 the border was only open for three hours a week. Nearly 40 years later the frontier still closes down every night. It’s very far from being an open border.

In 1991 with a German friend I bicycled along the route of the Berlin Wall, it was already often difficult to trace the path of the barrier which had divided East Germany from West Germany less than 24 months earlier.Yet only months before the wall came down the division between the two Germanys had seemed indestructible. My German friends underlined that even the day before the separation came to an end it seemed like it could go on forever.

In Panmunjeom, where both South Korea and North Korea exist (South Korea to the left, North Korea to the right) ⓒTony Wheeler

Tony Wheeler Born 1946 in London, Tony Wheeler is the founder of Lonely Planet. In 1972, him and his wife, Maureen Wheeler set off on a year-long Asia overland trip. With on 27 cents left at the end of the trip, the two decide to publish their travel diaries into the Lonely Planet. Over the years, the book reached yearly sales of over 7 million copies, that’s 25% of the industry, and has become every traveler’s bible. The couple still spends over half of the year traveling.

Panmunjeom ⓒKTO

078 079

I had Berlin very much in my mind when I travelled up to the DMZ from Seoul. This is an artificial border I thought, the people on both sides are essentially the same, they speak the same language, until very recently they shared the same history. Throughout my travels to the north of the DMZ I could not help feeling that I was on a movie set, that what I was seeing and experiencing was not reality. I felt like I was visiting a Hollywood movie version of reality, not a place in the real world.

That surreal existence reaches the height of unreality at the DMZ. The reality, you keep thinking, is that the two cities are just 200 km apart. Surely that division cannot be so decisive and yet at the same time so artificial? The alternative reality is that the two Koreas are a world apart, but that’s not a reality I believe in. One day the DMZ will simply disappear and a few years later – just like the Berlin Wall which disappeared so comprehensively that it was hard to even trace where it used to stand – it will be hard to believe it ever existed. (Published June 18th, 2010)

Panmunjeom ⓒKTO

Look Inside!

Rediscovery of the DMZ The Korean War ended in 1953 with the signing of an armistice. A 900 km2 DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), 2 km north and south of the ceasefire line, was created on both North and South Korea. Ironically, this area which is completely closed off is a haven of rare animals and plants. In recent years, the DMZ has become an area of interest in terms of ecology, research and tourism.

Hwajinpo Lake ⓒKTO

Hantangang River ⓒKTO

Panmunjeom, Proof of a Divided Nation

DMZ, a Natural Ecological Treasure Trove

Korea is the only divided country in the world,

The DMZ divided the Korean peninsula into the

and the Panmunjeom has become a symbol of

North and South. The western section belongs

division. It is located in Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, within

to Gyeonggi-do and the eastern section is part

military boundaries, and is the only place where

of Gangwon-do. The Gyeonggi-do section of

South-North talks are held. Before the Korean

the DMZ crosses Gimpo-si, Goyang-si, Paju-si

War, it was a small rural area, but since the truce

and Yeoncheon-gun, and takes less than 2 hours

talks on October 25, 1953, it became the center

from Seoul, which is why it is a popular “Security

of attention worldwide. After the signing of an

Tourism” area. You can visit the Dora Observatory,

armistice in 1953, the UN and North Korea officially

which is the closest observatory from North Korea,

declared this area as the JSA (Joint Security Area).

and the 3rd Tunnel, which was dug by the North

The area where the Military Armistice Commission

to invade the South. Gangwon-do is actually

and the UN War Correspondent Center were

divided by the DMZ, and the province has shown

located has been replaced by the Unification

interest in the ecology tourism of DMZ. Trekking

Park, Imjingak Pavilion, which was built to console

tours are becoming highly popular for the red-

the hearts of the displaced people, the Freedom

crowned cranes, black-faced spoonbills, and other

House, and about 10 other buildings. To the west

67 endangered species of birds that have been

of Panmunjeom is Neolmundari Bridge, which

spotted in the Gyeonggi-do section of the DMZ.

is referred to as the “bridge of no return.” In 2011,

In the Cheorwon-gun area of the Gangwon-do

most of the more than 2.33 million foreign tourists

DMZ, ostrich experience centers and other ecology

that visited Gyeonggi-do also visited Panmunjeom.

observation programs are being operated.

080 | Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul | 081

Jeongdok Public Library, Samcheong Park and the Asian Art Museum,

a cluster of Seoul Charm

Bukchon Hanok Village â“’KTO

Mary Jane Liddicoat Born 1966 in Australia, Mary Jane Liddicoat was posted as head of education to the Australian Embassy in Korea from 2006 to 2009, and until 2011 was the Asia Pacific LOHAS Korea Country Head. She is also the founder of the Healthy Homes Asia. She is married to Korean sculptor Choi Jin-ho (40), who sculpted the 2 haechi statues in front of the Seoul City Hall. Together they have 3 children, Sam Juhyun (7), Romy (5), and Lia (2).

I had lived in Seoul for four years before I discovered its hidden charm: Bukchon Hanok Village, meaning the 'North Village'. I have now lived in Bukchon Hanok Village for five years and every day I delight in walking my kids to the local school, weaving through the narrow alleyways flagged by traditional 'hanok' houses.

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The first is Jeongdok Public Library. Most Saturday mornings, we walk from our house to visit the tiny children's section on the ground floor, where our kids borrow as many books as they can about dinosaurs, insects or rabbits. They love the leafy, open space and grass where they simply run around and be themselves.

Robert Liddicoat drawing of Bukchon rooftops

Most of all, they love sitting in the 'wondumak' raised wooden resting hut, spotting carp in the pond below.

A few afternoons a week, we walk to Samcheong Park. Leafy and sheltered – and full of wonderful insects to inspect – we take walks, kick balls around or just watch the kids go crazy on the play equipment.

Finally, although the area is teaming with historically valuable and downright quirky museums (the owl and the chicken museum for example), our choice is always the Asian Art Museum. Tucked away on

How could I have missed it? Bukchon Hanok Village is right in the middle of Seoul between Gyeongbokgung Palace and the Secret Garden (Changdeokgung Place), just north of the city's traditional arts and crafts Insa-dong district (where we spent many many hours).

It was actually my father, an Australian painter, who first told me about this magical area. When I came back for my second posting at the Australian Embassy in 2006, he demanded I look for a house in the area so he could paint there (which he did)!

Even my husband, a Korean sculptor, who virtually lived in Insa-dong knew very little about the magical, secret streets of Bukchon Hanok Village.

Now we do. Now we know every nook and cranny there is to know!

The only problem is it keeps changing so rapidly that it is hard to keep track...

Apart from the various coffee shops where I love to sit and relax, watching the passing parade, as a family, we have three favorite places.

At Bukchon with family ⓒMary Jane Liddicoat

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the highest part of the Gahoe-dong hill, the air and the views here are spectacular.

Look Inside!

What do we love about this area? The air, the trees, the grass, the art and culture, the well-loved, well-cared for traditional and new buildings, the

Bukchon and Seochon

clean streets, the organic food shops...and of course the people.

The metropolitan city of Seoul is full of tall skyscrapers. But, if you search a bit deeper, you’ll be able to find the

I was so surprised to find that most English-speakers like me, knew nothing about Bukchon Hanok Village, that in 2007 I set up a website as a hobby to let people know about its magic (hanokgirl.net).

historical city of Seoul. Bukchon still preserves the homes of noblemen, and Seochon Village has portraits of the contemporary and modern Korea.

I even made souvenirs like none I've even found in Korea (including hanok wall print neck ties!), so that returning tourists could help promote Seoul's hidden charm.

What is its magic? It's certainly not simply the beautiful old buildings.

Bukchon Hanok Village has a sense of community, a sense of the value of nature, of art and culture, and a sense of health and well-being.

Bukchon Hanok Village ⓒKTO

Seochon ⓒSMW

Bukchon

Seochon

Bukchon refers to the residential area including

Along with the popularity of Bukchon, Seochon

and surrounding the Bukchon Hanok Village,

is also becoming a popular attraction. It is

near Jongno and Cheonggyecheon Stream.

separated from Bukchon by Gyeongbokgung

I always feel privileged to be part of this community. And then I wonder: if this is possible in Bukchon Hanok Village, why not for all parts of all cities in Korea? What if all children in Korea could grow up breathing

Being located between Gyeongbokgung and

Palace. During the Joseon Dynasty, doctors,

Changdeokgung palaces, it was a village of

inspectors and other professionals lived here,

loyalty and noblemen of the Joseon Dynasty.

but in modern times, artists like painter Lee

With the population rise of Seoul in the

Jung-seop, poet Yun Dong-joo and Lee Sang

and running in spaces like this? What spark of inspiration, excitement, joy or creativity could this ignite, and what could that contribute to Korea's future?

1930s, about 800 houses were built in the

resided in Seochon. Unlike the traditional

alleys of Bukchon. With the modernization

tile roof houses of Bukchon, Seochon has a

of the city, many hanoks, traditional Korean

more mixed collection of houses including

houses, were removed, but Bukchon has,

modernized hanoks of the 1910s, Japanese-

and still preserves tradition. Houses numbers

style hanok of the Japanese colonial times,

11 and 31 to 33 in Gahoe-dong have been

single and multiplex houses. You can see the

especially well preserved. Unique features of

transformation of Seoul through the small and

the village include the cozy cafes and galleries

clustered alleys of Seochon. In recent years,

of Samcheongdong- gil Road, Jungang

art museum and galleries, and art groups have

H igh School, where the Korean drama

moved into the village.

Winter Sonata was filmed, on Gyedong-gil

Address Sajik-dong & Hyoja-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Road, and stonewall and tile roof houses of

Web tour.jongno.go.kr

I have a strong sense that Korea is moving quickly in this direction and that we will start seeing more communities like Bukchon Hanok Village in the future. It only takes people to choose it.

As for new visitors to Seoul, I always tell them: start at Bukchon Hanok Village. And they're never disappointed. (Published October 15th, 2010)

Changdeokgung-gil Road.

Address Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Web bukchon. jongno.go.kr

086 | Taekwondo | 087

Taekwondo is a friend of 20 years, and now I’m a Korean at heart

For me, Korea is the land of the master, the “fatherland”.

I started dreaming of going to Korea, which is the birthplace of taekwondo, when I was a child and began studying this martial art.

I think that going to taekwondo’s homeland is also the dream of everyone who does this martial art everywhere in the world. They dream of touching Korean soil, like a Muslim who dreams of going to Mecca.

The first time I entered a taekwondo School (dojang) in my hometown of Rome, I was only seven years old. I entered the facility holding my father's hand, with no idea of how important that event would be for my future. When I put on the white training clothes (dobok) for the first time and the white belt, I didn't even know that taekwondo was a Korean martial art. I started doing it just for fun.

I enjoyed the fighting with the other kids my age. I found there was something magic in studying the basic techniques that are the “forms”. It gave me the desire to study the more advanced techniques.

Over time, I continued to go deeper into this martial art, and I began to understand the historical and philosophical significance of the techniques. I had this urge to know more about Taekwando, which became every more mysterious and fascinating to me.

I started to read books about Korea that were occasionally available at the Korean embassy.

I discovered that Korea was three times smaller than Italy. To me, the country seemed lost in a far corner of faraway East Asia.

Taekwondo pumsae (form) ⓒMarco Ienna

Marco Ienna Born 1984 in Rome, Italy. Ienna started taekwondo when he was in the 3rd grade.

In 2006, he was the first foreigner to enter Kyung Hee University as a taekwondo major, and in 2010 he was the first foreigner to graduate Kyung Hee University with a taekwondo degree. He is the honorary ambassador for Kyung Hee University, an assistant professor at the International Taekwondo Association, and he represents Kang’s Taekwondo Namchang Dojang.

088 089

I was amazed that such a small country situated in the Far East could become the leader in introducing taekwondo to the world. Today there are 200 countries in the WTF (World Taekwondo Federation), and 70 million people make up the big family of taekwondo practitioners.

When I finished high school I persuaded my parents to let me go to

enter the fight group. This experience allowed me not only to learn the competitive techniques, but also, thanks to the links that develop among the students who have studied taekwondo for a long time, to get to know the long history and the profound cultural effect that taekwondo has had on the tradition of Koreans and in their cultural norms.

Korea. I departed with enthusiasm and full of expectations.

On May 6, 2005 I got off the airplane at a foggy Inchon airport and inhaled the air of Korea. It was not as strange as I had imagined it would be. In fact, as I breathed in the air I had a sense of knowing familiarity. I didn't think so much about how and where I would start on my path; rather, I thought only about my simple goal, which made me forget all else: I would study the roots of taekwondo. This goal brought me to Kyung Hee University (which in 1983 introduced taekwondo as an official university department in Korea).

But my lack of Korean language skills was a barrier to reaching my goal.

I understood that it was necessary to learn Korean to take an important step toward achieving my goal. I took an eight-month immersion course in the language. My diligent study allowed me to get closer to Korean society. I got to know the people, and I was able to practice and learn the grammar, sounds and vocabulary. My hard work paid off. I was able to pass the entrance examinations for the taekwondo department at Kyung Hee University. I was the first foreigner to do so.

In Italy I had studied taekwondo only from a technical point of view.

Taekwondo became an official Olympic sport in 2000 and has spread throughout the world. Even outside of official competition, many foreigners are attracted by the wide range of demonstration programmes both outside Korea and in the country. Many people, and not just those who practice the sport, are starting to appreciate it.

Taekwondo has developed in tandem with the historical events that have shaped the country of Korea. The white dobok training uniform represents the soul of the Korean people. All the terms used to designate the various techniques are names drawn from historical events. This gives taekwondo the role of a spokesperson for the language, history and sprit of Korea.

Taekwondo also brings in a lot of tourists to the country. But that's not all. In fact, the foreigners who practice taekwondo undertake a kind of devotion to Korea. They love all things Korean. From kimchi, which is always present in Korean food, to hanbok, the traditional colourful clothing with light lines; from the typical landscape of valleys rich with mountains and water, to the traditional houses with their typical tile roofs.

The philosophy of taekwondo is the same as the one that the

But I felt happy and full of anticipation in thinking that in Korea I could practice taekwondo in all its facets, at a professional organization that combined study with a scientific understanding of the techniques.

The four-year period I spent at the university was one of the most intense and important times of my life. From the first year I was able to

founder Dangun gave to his people in 2333 B.C. His message was the illumination of the entire world. In fact, taekwondo is not simply a physical exercise. It is a discipline through which one can obtain mental and physical health, enabling each individual to find the courage and strength to fight injustice and to become a leader by example. As a leader, the individual works to build a model society.

Unfortunately, the important role that this martial art has taken on in the rest of the world is not very well known back in Korea.

In fact, in the taekwondo Schools there has been a kind of regression: they have been transformed into a sort of playground for children. The reason for this is that the Korean government has not been active in promoting taekwondo and in adopting solutions to protect and develop this martial art.

Recently there has been an increase in taekwando programmes for foreigners, including demonstrations of taekwondo in front of the

Taekwondo has developed in tandem with the Flying kick â“’Marco Ienna

historical events that have shaped the country of Korea.

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Gyeonghuigung Palace, and the establishment of the ITA (International Taekwondo Academy) by the WTF in cooperation with the KTF (Korean Taekwondo Foundation). The ITA was created to allow all countries to send representatives to Korea free of charge. The purpose is for practitioners to learn more about taekwondo and Korean culture. It also provides an incentive for an exchange of ideas and to create a better world not only for martial arts but for the countries involved. The WTF and the KTF cooperate on projects to design and develop international programmes and competitions. This year again, the two organizations have offered many programmes: ITA (in the taekwondo department at Kyung Hee University in Suwon-si), the youth field in the taekwondo park in Muju-gun, along with international competitions: Korea Open (Gumisi), Gyeongsangnam-do Open (Jinju-si), Chuncheon Open (Chuncheonsi), courses for instructors organized by Kukkiwon, etc. These events act as an incentive for the flow of foreigners who visit Korea. In the Namchung Dojang training facility in Suwon-si, where I often go, athletes from Italy, America, China, Austria, Australia and England can be seen.

I believe that a university in Italy should establish a taekwondo department.

This would give a rapid development to the sport in Italy, not only in terms of studying the technique, but also, and in particular, for spreading the cultural heritage that is part and parcel of this martial art. I have therefore decided to stay and study in Korea until I have received a doctorate in this field. For an in-depth training in this field you must also have a deep knowledge of the language, history, philosophy and arts of Korea. That’s why I have pursued a double degree with the department of Korean Culture and Language. I have acquired the certification to teach Korean.

Going forward, I think that theatre can be another way to inform the world about Korean history and philosophy. Through performances it is possible to talk in an interesting and enjoyable way about the history of taekwondo by going through the history of Korea and its people and mythologies.

Taekwondo was exported throughout the world by Korean instructors in the 1970s. They did more than diplomats did to propagate Korean culture. If Korean government institutions were to promote taekwondo, it would become a brand more famous and important than Samsung. It would be a major force in increasing the number of foreigners who visit and take an interest in Korea. th

(Published November 12 , 2010)

Look Inside!

Taekwondo, the Martial Arts of Korea China has Kung fu, Japan has karate, and Korea has taekwondo. Taekwondo became a world sport when it was included as an official category at the 2000 Sydney Olympic. Currently the taekwondo population has reached the 80 million mark. Taekwondo uses only the body and mind as a defense method rather than attack.

Taekwondo ⓒKTO

Taekwondo ⓒKTO

Kukkiwon, the Taekwondo Headquarter

Experiencing Taekwondo

Opened in 1972 as the central dojang

In order to get a deeper understanding of

(taekwondo gymnasium), Kukkiwon promotes

the sport, you have to let your body feel it.

the globalization of taekwondo. Belt test

From April to the first week of November on

are held here as well. It has produced over 8

Wednesdays at 11a.m., Saturdays at 2p.m.,

million dan and pum (ranks in taekwondo)

and Sundays at 5p.m. a special taekwondo

h o l d e r s. I n 1 9 8 3 , i t s t a r te d t h e Wo r l d

experience program is held at the Namsangol

Taekwondo Academy to train grand masters

Hanok Village. Basic moves and forms,

and send them out to the world. Over 50,000

breaking tiles and more are offered in a 1 hour

grand masters have graduated from the

class. Classes are 20,000 won per person and

academy.

reservations must be made at the Website.

[Kukkiwon] Address 635 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-

[Namsangol Hanok Village] Address 84-1 Pil-dong

gu, Seoul Web kukkiwon.or.kr

2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Web taekwonseoul.org

Taekwondo Meets Traditional Dance Taekwondo is also an art. Every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday from April to November, a “Taekwondo Concert” is held at the Namsangol Hanok Village. A fun and interesting story of how taekwondo saves men is portrayed through taekwondo and traditional dance. There are no performances in August.

[Taekwondo Concert] Address 84-1 Pil-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Web taekwonseoul.org

092 | Templestay | 093

Hello? I am Santhasiri from Sri Lanka. Already I have been in Korea for six years. I came to Korea for the first time in 2003 after I met a Korean monk who visited Sri Lanka. My first visit was for two and a half months and I met migrant workers from Southeast Asia and had a chance to help them. It was a very useful and meaningful experience for me and that made me come back to Korea on February 4, 2004.

I almost lost my knees doing the 108 bows, barely kept my eyes open during the early morning service, but I got to known a new side of Korea

With great expectations, I made my first step in a foreign migrant workers center in Bogwangsa Temple, Paju-si. After that, I worked for migrant workers in Ansan-si for a while and then came to Mahabuddha center in Gumi-si in April, 2005. In Mahabuddha center it was like a full time job for me to work for migrant workers from Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Philippines, Cambodia, Vietnam, Pakistan, etc. My main duties included interpreting for migrant workers when they go to a hospital when they are sick and helping to deal with all the different types of civil service cases from migrant workers in relation to their severance pay, industrial accidents, police interpreting, court interpreting, the Ministry of Labor, Korea Workers’ Compensation and Welfare Service, etc. Especially I am actively engaged in problem solving for migrant women from alienated multicultural families. I came to have an interest in child welfare because I care about their children. So I am studying child welfare at Gumi College 1. I would like to work for migrant workers with great passion in future, not forgetting why I chose Korea first.

The most memorable moment in Korea has been my Korean Buddhist experience for two weeks with foreign monks at Magoksa Temple in

G. Santhasiri Born 1976 in Sri Lanka. Santhasiri studied archeology at the University of Sri Jayewardenepura and graduated in 2003. He came to Korea in 2004 and has worked helping foreign workers in Korea with interpretation and various civil matters.

108 bows at the Haeinsa Templestay program â“’KTO

094 095

Gongju-si, Chungcheongnam-do. Magoksa Temple is an old temple founded by Monk Jajang, Buddhism discipline expert during the Silla Kingdom and has the status of being the head temple of the 25th Buddhist diocese of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. It was a mysterious experience I have never had before, waking up at 3:30 at

even a speck of food using a spoon and chopsticks because I was poor at using them.

dawn and starting a day by beopgo: Buddhist drum, sound awakening all things in the universe. It was such a great pain bowing 108 times for the first time in my life after yebul: Buddha worship, with many other monks at the main building of the temple. Only a person who has experienced the bowing knows the pain which makes legs stiff and calf muscles hard.

I wasn’t even able to walk. However, I keep on bowing 108 times these days, which is beneficial to my health.

towards food and receiving it properly, I could make a real effort following the discipline more carefully. Another unique experience was Zen meditation searching for self. I had a hard time sitting crosslegged because I was not used to living on the floor. Concentrating on a meaningful topic; mantra made me sleepy and provoked delusions unless sleepy. After repeated sleepiness, delusions and unbearable foot numbness from sitting for two weeks I came to learn a lot about Korean Buddhism and culture and feel as much. So I recommend a templestay without any hesitation to foreigners who are curious about Korea.

Another memorable moment impacting on my Korean life is balugongyang: offering of bowls, which I first experienced then. Balu-gongyang is monastic table manners, using four balu (bowls) for rice, soup, side dishes, and water so much as one can take, and finishing food without wasting any in silence. However, it was too difficult to eat not wasting

At Magoksa Temple in 2006 (Santhasiri is the 3rd person from the right) ⓒG. Santhasiri

Listening to a lecture about significance of donors’ offerings and devotion to food, and realizing that it is etiquette setting one’s attitude

Recently Korean food is my biggest interest. At the beginning I have had a very tough time getting used to Korean food. The unique smell of doenjang: fermented bean paste, soup was so disgusting to block my

Magoksa Temple ⓒKTO

096 097

nostrils. However, I came to appreciate the true taste of Korean recipes which bring out the natural flavors without adding any seasoning or spices, having experienced temple culture for a long time. Due to the distinct four seasons, seasonal food is well developed in Korea and even the same material may give out different tastes preserved depending on the season. So I came to enjoy delicious doenjang soup with tofu-bean curd and diced hot Cheongyang red pepper. Well-matured kimchi: salted and seasoned Chinese cabbages soup captured my taste buds more than any other food with its uniqueness. After having some oily food for a few days I am eager for doenjang or kimchi soup and I think my taste buds must have truly naturalized as a Korean native.

Today I start my mornings with 108 bows and am busy with matters with migrant workers all day but I am a happy Korean person who can eat a bowl of rice heartily and rest on the warm floor in the evening.

I became a kind-hearted person of Gyeongsang Province who goes around migrant workers’ rooms in the migrant center to see whether they are warm enough or if there are any sick people, taking after my master who always takes care of me whether I am warm enough or in good health. (Published November 26th, 2010)

Look Inside!

Templestay, Searching My Inner Self Templestay is a program that lets you experience the Korean Buddhist culture while spending a night a temple.

It was first started with the 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup to promote Korea Buddhism to visiting tourists, and to this day there are over 100 participating temples nationwide. Below are 4 outstanding temple recommended by the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhist. Web templestay.com

Woljeongsa Temple ⓒKTO

Haeinsa Temple ⓒKTO

Jeondeungsa Temple

Haeinsa Temple

Jeondeungsa is located in Ganghwado Island, it’s

Located at the foot of G ayasan M ountain in

been told that Jeondeungsa was built in 381 during

Hapcheon-gun, this millennial temple houses the

Goguryeo Kingdom’s King Sosurim’s reign. It is only

80,000 Tripitaka Koreana printing woodblocks, and

1.5 hours from Seoul, and is popular among foreign

its depositories, both registered on UNESCO’s World

tourists for the many programs offered.

Heritage list. It is a representative temple of Korea

Address 635 Onsu-ri, Gilsang-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon

that is loved by both locals and tourists, and it has a

Web jeondeungsa.org

special templestay program for foreigners.

Woljeongsa Temple

Address 10 Chiin-ri, Gaya-myeon, Hapcheon-gun, Gyeong sangnam-do Web haeinsa.or.kr

Located in Pyeongchang-gun’s Odaesan Mountain, Woljeongsa Temple was constructed in 643 during

Geumsansa Temple

Silla Kingdom’s Queen Seondeok’s reign, and it

Although it was initially famous for the nation’s only

famous as the temple with Buddha’s sarira. The

3-storied Mireukjeon Hall, in recent years, it has

templestay program at Woljeongsa Temple is favored

become better known for its exemplar templestay

by many, including non-believers, for its flexible

program. The Geumsansa Temple offers 1 night, 2

schedule. The 1-km fir tree forest trail that starts at the

night and 6 night templestay programs. The most

Iljumun Gate of the temple is also a famous tourist

popular activity is the time spent with monks.

attraction.

Address 39 Geumsan-ri, Geumsan-myeon, Gimje-si, Jeollabuk-

Address 63 Dongsan-ri, Jinbu-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun,

do Web geumsansa.org

Gangwon-do Web woljeongsa.org

098 | The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain | 099

One of my wishes was fulfilled that day

I boarded the shuttle bus near the station, and arrived at Palgongsan Mountain after a shaky bus ride which took approximately 50 minutes.

I entered a restaurant located at the foot of the mountain. It was hot so I had my first kongguksu (Noodles in Chilled Bean Broth) for lunch in that year. After that, the bowl of warm guksu (noodles) ordered by the person sitting at the table next to me had arrived, but mine didn’t, so I hurried them. After waiting for my kongguksu for a long time, it finally came, the shop aunty said “Sorry to keep you waiting for so long. It should taste very good after waiting so long”. On top of hearing that, I wasn’t expecting much from a restaurant located at a tourist spot, but the soya milk was actually very rich, the richness of the noodles flowed down my throat, and the trefoil and parsley salad was so delicious, so it really surpassed my expectations, ultimately delighting me. I handed over my luggage to the shop for safekeeping, and I proceeded to start my walking journey to the heart of Palgongsan Mountain where the Gatbawi Rock Buddha statue was located.

The tender green and azaleas were beautiful and the weather was so good on that Sunday, so there were many tourists. When I searched online, the one-way walking distance to the Gatbawi Rock was one hour. However, I didn’t expect to encounter so many steep slopes, and steep stairways with rocky paths. After climbing for five minutes, I wanted to give up. That was how tough it was. My knees were wobbling,

“Arigato, Gatbawi!”

Gatbawi Rock at Palgongsan Mountain ⓒKogure Makoto

It was my first time to Gyeongsangbuk-do in Jan 2011 (this year). At that time, my friend who live in Daegu showed me around. However, there were two wishes of mine that remained unfulfilled. One of them was to visit the Gatbawi Rock Buddha statue located on Palgongsan Mountain.

Another wish was to try out a famous Daegu dish called makchang (Grilled Pork Entrails).

In May, I visited Daegu again to watch a musical, so I decided to make up for what I missed out the last time I came. I boarded the KTX at 9a.m. from Seoul, and arrived at East Daegu Station at 10:45a.m.

but since I came all the way to Daegu, it didn't make sense for me not to do any sightseeing, so that became my motivation to go on.

Me Western clothing and a bag carried on my shoulders. Others Wind breaker for mountain trekking, long pants, and backpack. I obviously underestimated the difficulty level of this journey. The path to Gatbawi Rock was not a hiking or trekking trail, but rather “mountain

Kogure Makoto 小暮眞琴 Born 1961 in Japan, Makoto is a government employee in Japan. Her body may be in Japan, but her heard is surely in Korea. She watches Korean dramas, keeps up with Korean news, talks to Korean friends over the phone and e-mail. And studies Korean every day hoping to come to Korea for a long-term language program.

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After enjoying the fantastic view from the mountain top, I gulped down the cold can of Pocari Sweat that I bought from the automatic vending machine, and started my downhill journey. The downhill path was also rocky and rough, so treaded with caution while grasping the railings.

Once I reached the foot of the mountain, when I went to retrieve my Trail to Gatbawi Rock ⓒKogure Makoto

climbing”. Even if you are fully geared up for mountain climbing, anyone will still be worn out by this. There were benches for those who reached the peak of their exhaustion, which was just nice. Everyone was muttering "himdeuro (so tough)" in their strong Gyeongsangbuk-do accent.

Along the way when I looked at the surroundings, I realized that we were already halfway up, and yet the destination was nowhere in sight. There was no telling how much longer I needed to walk in this living hell. Drenched in sweat, just an hour after I started climbing, my heart leapt with joy as I saw the sign that said "You are at Gyeongsang Province Gatbawi Rock". Yes, I finally arrived at Gatbawi Rock. I was like a Kappa (water imp in Japanese folklore) that emerged from a muddy swamp. So is this why this place is called Kappawi (Japanese spelling of Gatbawi Rock)? (I don’t think so). The name “Gatbawi” was made up of the names “Gat" (which refers to the traditional cylindrical Korean hat), and “Bawi” (which means “rock”), hence the name for the Buddha that appeared to be wearing a cylindrical shaped hat. Nothing to do with Kappas (LOL). Yes, I'm the Kappa here (laughs bitterly). I heard that if we earnestly recited our wishes to the Buddha who wears a cylindrical hat, our wish would come true once in our lifetime. There were many people who were on their knees praying devoutly. In fact there were so many people that you won't imagine that you're on top of a mountain.

Since I struggled so hard to climb all the way up, I was greedy enough to make two wishes. Actually, one of them has already been fulfilled, so I think it was really worth it.The other one is already in progress, I think (LOL).

luggage kept at the restaurant where I had my lunch, the aunty frying pajeon in the open saw my face and said “hey you’re back”, as if to verify that I am back in one piece, and rejoiced for me.

I was quite thirsty, so I went to buy a can of beer to drink while waiting for the bus to go back. However, the bus came sooner than I expected, so I ended up drinking in the bus. Everyone was looking at me (sweats).

Frantically, I took a towel to wrap it round the can (LOL). It is a Korean beer brand that had this diluted taste similar to Budweiser, but it tasted really good at this point of time.

After checking in to the hotel, I went to watch the musical I had looked forward to watching so much. After it was over, even though it was past 11p.m., I decided that I won’t go back to the hotel until I tried the famous makchang which Daegu was famous for, so I went to eat it

People making wishes in front of Gatbawi Rock ⓒKogure Makoto

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together with a friend staying in Daegu who joined me to watch the musical. She was still a university student, so she had to obtain permission from her mother to join me. I heard that there was a number of shops lined up in a row that sold makchang nearby the opera house which was accessible by taxi from the East Daegu Station at minimum fare, so we proceeded to get there. We entered the shop named “Class A Year 2”. My friend ordered a mixture of makchang and samgyeopsal since she was concerned that the makchang may not suit my taste. The makchang seasoned with not very spicy seasonings which comes with sweet potato, rice cakes, and onions, looked very much like sliced Chikuwas, but it felt elastic and the burnt portions tasted exceptionally great.

It was very difficult to communicate effectively through the phone with my friend whom I've not seen in four months, so it was very enjoyable to meet up with her in person and chat with her. At that point, her mother called her on the phone to ask her to come home. That was when I realized it was 12 midnight. Frantically, we made a promise to meet again, and we bid each other farewell.

It was a very short visit, but I achieved two goals. It was a very satisfying trip to Daegu. (Published November 4th, 2011)

Look Inside!

An Energy Filled Power Spot of Korea In Korea, there are many prayer-answering, energy-filled “Power Spots” like Palgongsan Mountain’s Gatbawi Rock. There are many feng shui influenced sites, and sited deemed “Holy” for religious and historic purposes.

These are “Power Pilgrimage Spots” of Korea.

Gwaneum Holy Ground

Donguibogam Village

In Buddhism, Avalokitesvara, the goddess of

This Korean medicine themed park located in

mercy, made a vow to help humankind, and

Sancheong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do, will be

in Korean, temples enshrining Avalokitesvara

hosting the 2013 World Traditional Medicine

are called Gwaneum temples. Interestingly,

Expo in memory of the 400th publication

most Gwaneum temples are famous as

anniversar y of the UNESCO designated

“Power Spots.” The three major Gwaneum

Donguibogam, Principles and Practice of Eastern

holy grounds of Korea are Naksansa Temple

Medicine. The Baekdudaegan Mountain

in Yangyang-gun, Gangwon-do, Bomunsa

Range, which begins in Baedusan Mountain,

Temple in Ganghwado, Incheon, and Boriam

ends here in Sancheong-gun, and it is said

Hermitage in Namhae-gun, Gyeongsangnam-

that the energy of the mountains can be felt

do. The Korea Tourism Organization and

the strongest in this village. Sancheong-gun

the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism have

is also famous as the hometown of Joseon

selected 33 temples and declared them as

Dynasty’s greatest doctor, Heo Jun. Other

“Gwaneum Holy Grounds” and since 2011 a

noteworthy attractions of the area include the

special pilgrimage program is being operated.

Korean Traditional Medicine Museum and the

Web [Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism] templestay.

Healing Experience Center.

com, [Korea Tourism Organization] visitkorea.or.kr

Address Teuk-ri, Geumseo-myeon, Sancheong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do

Taebaeksan Cheongjedan Altar Taebaeksan Mountain (1,567 m) in Taebaeksi, Gangwon-do, was the holy ground where ancestral rites for Dangun, the progenitor of a nation, were held. Cheonjedan Altar was where the rites were held for at least a thousand years, and the altar still remains to this day. People come to Taebaeksan Mountain to pray and wish upon the gods. Specially, on New Year’s Day, crowds of people climb the peaks of Taebaeksan Mountain to make their new year’s resolutions.

Palgongsan Mountain ⓒKTO

Address Sodo-dong, Taebaek-si, Gangwon-do

Culture of Korea

104 105

Jeffrey D. Jones

Eve Sinapi

Christina Ritt

Matthew Ambrosia

Tour of Busan

Journey of Korean Literature

Tour of the Korean Night Life

Busan's Sajik Baseball Park

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Amy CHAN

Min Siang & Valencia

Robert Koehler

Han Xiang Zi

Tour of Drama Filming Locations

Best Place to Propose

Exploring the Alleys of Seoul

Incheon International Airport

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John Duerden

Alia Rachel Jones

Omar Al-Nahar

Jin May-ling

Korean Soccer

K-pop Live

Korean Popular Music

Train Journey

Hallyu & Passion Rachel Jones’ room covered with posters of K-pop singers, Korean movies and performances ⓒAlia Rachel Jones

106 | Tour of Busan | 107

Since the early 1970’s I have been privileged to travel throughout Korea and I don’t believe there is a corner on the peninsula that I have not visited. I have not been able to step foot on all of the thousands of islands off the West coast of Korea, but I have certainly flown over them in both airplane and helicopter, which provided a much better view.

Having seen so much and been to so many places, it was an extremely difficult decision to come up with my favorite place in Korea. Part of the difficulty is I sincerely enjoy so many places and part of the difficulty is I don’t want to disappoint any of my friends who can be found in or are from each destination.

Haeundae Beach ⓒKTO

The warmth and wide open spaces of Jejudo Island provide a welcome relief from the congestion and the hustle and bustle found at almost every other location in Korea. The majestic mountains of Seoraksan National Park instill within me a sense of safety and security and seemingly assure me that I will live forever. I am simply overwhelmed with the historical significance of Gyeongju-si and marvel at the ingenuity of those who lived centuries before us. The west coast beaches of Korea are under utilized and provide welcome relief in the hot summer months, but without the crowds. With so many places to enjoy, it was a very difficult choice indeed.

I nevertheless came to the conclusion that the place I seem to return to time and time again is Busan. Perhaps it’s because this is where I was first introduced to Korea and learned to struggle with the Gyeongsangnamdo dialect which still sounds like everyone is fighting even when politely asking for a glass of water. Perhaps it is the rough and tumble attitude of

It’s more affectionate because it’s loud and crazy Haeundae is a place you just keep wanting to go back to

Jeffrey D. Jones Born 1952 in the U.S. He was first introduced to the Korean culture in the early 1970s, and has lived in Korea since 1980. He speaks very fluent Korean. From 1998 to 2002 he served as Chairman of the American Chamber of Commerce in Korea. Jones serves as Chairman of the Partners for the Future Foundation, advisor to the Foreign Investment Advisory Council of Seoul City, director of the Korea Green Foundation, and member of the International Advisory Board of the Federation of Korean Industries.

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Gyeongsangnam-do coupled with a persevering optimism that underlies the very rough exterior. Whatever the reason, Busan is the place I like to return to when I have a free weekend. I prefer to stay at Haeundae Beach, which now boasts of an elegant walkway along the entire beach front.

With exception of the first two weeks in August when the uninitiated should avoid Busan, there is always plenty of room on the beach and despite what your Korean friends will tell you, it is okay to swim in the ocean on dates other than the first two weeks of August. My family enjoys the beach from May through September and there is always plenty of room, but even in this “offseason” you can enjoy a pickup game of beach volleyball or soccer.You can stroll the walk way and enjoy the street vendors who offer plenty to eat, a new hand drawn portrait or you can have your fortune told, but be sure to know the time of day you were born.

Haeundae Beach and the nearby vicinity have plenty of great restaurants (the sushi shops are my favorites) from Western food to Eastern food and everything in between and there is never a shortage of night clubs or Karaoke Room when you are feeling a bit bored. Busan aquarium is small, but fun and there are plenty of places to spend your money on the latest fashion and accessories. For a family getaway or a romantic evening for two, Busan is the place to go, but reserve early otherwise you may be sleeping in a tent on the beach. (Published April 2 nd, 2010)

Look Inside!

Famous Attractions Where Busan can be Felt Busan is a city full of energy. Not for its natural surrounding and famous tourist attractions, but because its people. At the time of the Korean War, fleeting refugees landed in Busan. The hearts of these refugees heated the city. Where is the best place to meet these warm hearted people?

Jagalchi Market

Gamcheon-dong Culture Village

This is the largest fisheries market in Korea formed

G amcheon- dong is small village on a sunny

in 1920. The smell of the ocean, the fisheries and

mountainside. While the young generation was

the people, and the loud and rough ajimaes (market

gradually leaving the village, a group of young artists

ladies) fill the entire market. Fresh fish is available

put life back in the village in 2009. They painted

from dusk till dawn, and on the 7th floor of the

murals and installed artworks in walls and alleys

market is guesthouse for foreign tourists.

of the village. It has now become a popular tourist

Address 37-1 Nampo-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web jagalchi

attraction of Busan.

market.or.kr

Address Gamcheon 2-dong, Saha-gu, Busan

Gukje Market & Kkangtong Market

Bosu-dong Bookstore Alley

Formed in 1945 by war refugee, Gukje Market is a

In 1950, during the Korean War, a young couple

representative wholesale and retail market of Busan

started selling used books from a cardboard box on

that carries everything from watches, machines,

the Bosu-dong Intersection. This was the birth of the

tools, electronics, kitchen appliances, clothing, food,

Bookstore Alley and today there over 30 bookstores

produce, etc. Right across this vintage market is

in business. You can find old literature, foreign books,

Kkangtong Market, which specializes in imported

textbooks, rare books, etc. There are also many small

goods. Busan eomuk (fishcake) and other Busan

cafes and the Mural Village is also nearby.

specialties attract shoppers from around the country.

Address 119 Bosu-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web bosubook.

Address Sinchang-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web tour.bsjun

com

ggu.go.kr

Haeundae Beach ⓒJoongAng Daily

I nevertheless came to the conclusion that the place I seem to return to time and time again is Busan.

Busan Gukje Market ⓒKTO

Busan Jagalchi Market ⓒKTO

110 | Tour of Drama Filming Locations | 111

My first visit to Korea was in December 1972. Seoul looked interesting although a bit rural compared to Tokyo and Osaka; the people were rather friendly; and it was a pleasant surprise to see so many Chinese characters in building and attraction names and shop signs. However, other than these, my first sojourn to Korea did not really seem to have left much impression so much so that I had not returned for three decades.

Namiseom Island, Manjanggul Cave, East Sea Lighthouse…

I came to see Bae Yong-joon, and I’m leaving with Korea in my heart

But all these changed dramatically after I became a member of the Bae Yong-joon “family” in 2003. That November, with much curiosity and without any knowledge of what to expect, I went on an expedition to Gwangju with 16 other ladies, none I had met before, and most could hardly speak a word of Hangul or had ever been to the Land of the Morning Calm. The purpose of our trip was to meet our idol, to shake his hand and to have a photo taken with him after getting his precious autograph. Little did I realize that this was the start of my 30 plus trips to follow my idol’s footsteps in discovering the beauty of Korea!

The following winter, I took no time to visit Yongpyong Ski Resort, Namiseom Island, and Chuncheon-si, so as to experience the natural beauty of Gangwon-do, and relive “Winter Sonata” through the many anecdotes and traces of my idol.

Namiseom Island ⓒKTO

Amy Chan Born 1949 in Hong Kong, Chan was formerly the director of the Hong Kong Tourism Board. She is also an honorary professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Department of Tourism, the Chairman at the Korea-Hong Kong Friendship Association, and an honorary advisor of Bae Yong-joon’s fan club in Hong Kong, BYJ Friends Forever Club.

Then it was a non stop series of visits to all the unique locations I have seen in my idol’s TV dramas and movies —— the Seoul Choong Ang High School, Jukseoru Pavilion near Samcheok-si, the beach and rocks at Chuam Beach, the lighthouse at East Sea, Jagalchi Market in Busan, Oedo Botania, Resom Ocean Castle on Anmyeondo Island, Eight Scenic Views of Danyang-gun, even the Manjanggul Cave in Jejudo Island. I slowly evolved to a true admirer of Korea off the beaten track.

Through all these journeys, I became more and more interested in the culture and tradition of this amazing country and its people, not to mention its breathtaking landscape.

Hangul’s close resemblance to the Chinese language intrigues me. The influence of Confucianism in the daily life and human relationship is

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also beyond my imagination. I have many a time been deeply touched by the close family ties and filial piety seen through tear jerking scenes in Korean drama, something probably long lost and forgotten in our modernized and westernized society.

was where my idol and his screen lover remade the happy ending of the animation version of their famous work on television.

What inspired me most is the patriotism of my idol and many of his fellow countrymen. Bae Yong-joon is probably the first artist to write a book on his profound love for his country’s culture and heritage. He spent months to visit the places, meet the people, take photos to record his journeys, and write with great respect and passion on what he has encountered.

May be this time, to the Andong Hahoe Village and Andong-si in Gyeongsangbuk-do to see how traditional Korean jang is made. Smells good, and tastes even better.

My next trip to the Land of the Morning Calm? Well, I guess I must dutifully continue to follow the footsteps of Bae Yong-joon, my idol.

Gamsa hamnida, Korea and Bae Yong-joon ssi, for being so inspiring !

(Published July 16th, 2010)

It is therefore not difficult to understand why there are ladies ( yes, mostly ladies ) from as diverse places as Egypt, France, Hawaii, Canada, and Australia that have frequented “Bae Yong-joon land”, to be joined by thousands of Japanese and ethnic Chinese from Mainland China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Southeast Asia. We go to Korea, not only because we want to catch a glimpse of our idol, but to learn more about his country.

I know of “senior” ladies in the Bae Yong-joon gajok ( family ) making special efforts to study Korean, learn to use the computer so that they can get onto the internet to follow the latest news of our idol, and some even go to the extent of taking lessons on “Photoshop” and film editing in order to share beautiful images of our idol and Korean scenery with fellow “family” members.

Amy Chan's "Bae Yong-joon" Pilgrimage

Namiseom Island Seoul Choong Ang High School

Chuncheon Jeongdongjin Chuam Beach Jukseoru Pavilion •Samcheok

Yongpyong Ski Resort

Eight Scenic Views of Danyang

For those bureaucrats who often doubt the effectiveness of using celebrities as spokespersons for Korea, and those who think the Hallyu (Korean Wave) is but a short lived phenomenon, I wish to say, they are wrong. The impact of Hallyu is immense, although a little challenging to be correctly measurable, but certainly is much longer lasting than most people thought. All these enthusiasm for Korea and its glittering personalities may require careful management, but Hallyu is here to stay.

In April, I went with my rather jealous but kind-hearted husband to Jeongdongjin and stayed at the Sun Cruise Resort. Why -- because that

Resom Ocean Castle

Jagalchi Market in Busan

Gwangju

Geojedo Island, Oedo Island

Manjanggul Cave in Jejudo Island

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Look Inside!

Hallyu Road, Famous Filming Locations in Korea Jewel in the Palace, Winter Sonata, Star in my Heart, Autumn in My Heart, Stairway to Heaven, these are just a few 1st and 2nd generation hallyu dramas. Filming locations of these dramas have already become popular tourist attractions. Here are newer dramas and their filming locations.

Hongik University Area, Hongdae

Gwanghalluwon Garden

Seaes Hotel

This is the main setting for Moon

This garden was featured in

Secret Garden is a drama about the

Geun-yeong’s Mary Stayed Out All

Rooftop Prince, starring JYJ’s Park

love story between the CEO of a

Night. Being a young university area

Yoo-chun. The drama draws the

major department store and a stunt

famous for its wild nightlife, many

love stor y between a Joseon

woman. In the drama, the two get

modern and trendy dramas are

Dynasty crown prince (Park Yoo-

lost in the forest and somehow

filmed here. 1st Shop of Coffee Prince

chun) and a modern day young

end up drinking a mystery wine

was also filmed here, and the actual

woman named Bak-ha (Han Ji-min).

that ends up changing their souls.

coffee shop feature on the drama

Gwanghalluwon Garden is one of

The resort where they first find

is still in business today attracting

the top 4 pavilions of Korea, and it

out about their changed souls is at

crowds of people. And finally in

was where the crown prince and

this hotel in Jejudo Island. Crowds

Love Rain, Jang Keun-suk’s studio

his princess used to take walks to.

of people visit the hotel to take

was also located here in Hongdae.

This is also where the princess was

pictures.

Address Donggyo-dong, Seogyo-dong

found dead. This is also where Bak-

Ad d r e s s 2563-1 Jungmun- dong,

and Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

ha finds a letter the prince wrote to

Seogwipo-si, Jeju Special Self-governing

Jade Garden Exported to over 20 countries

her 300 years ago.

Address 1447 Yocheon-ro, Namwon-si, Jeollabuk-do Web gwanghallu.or.kr

even before the end of the drama, Love Rain was filmed in

Cheongsando Island

this arboretum. This beautiful

This is the island where the two

European style garden was

main characters of the drama Scent

Hana’s House, played by Girls’

of a Woman, unexpectedly spend a

Generation’s Yuna. Jade Garden

night in a tent. Their date/business

was also featured in You’re a Pet, a

trip was filmed here.

movie starring Jang Keun-suk.

Address Cheongsan-myeon, Wando-

Address San 111 Seojeon-ri, Namsan-

gun, Jeollabuk-do Web sanbada.net

myeon, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do Web jadegarden.kr

Jade Garden ⓒHanwha Hotels&Resorts

Province Web seaes.co.kr

116 | Korean Soccer | 117

I go to soccer stadiums to feel the

“Real” Korea Seoul World Cup Stadium filled with fans wearing red shirts ⓒKTO

It is a great way to spend your free time and watching football in Korea gives you the excuse to travel around a fascinating and beautiful country.

I have sweated in the summer in Pohang, shivered in Seoul and got drenched in a Daejeon thunderstorm (after the first day of the 2005 East Asian Championships if anyone remembers that) that came so suddenly and so heavily that my laptop was damaged beyond repair. It has never been boring, always enjoyable.

People often ask me about the differences between football in Korea, and England, where I am from. I try to make the point that English football is not just about the English Premier League. That may be the most popular league in the world but the country has a vibrant football scene from the tip of the pyramid right down through the Championship, League one, League Two, the Conference and the many more leagues lower down. It is these that remind me of Korean football, not so much in the standard but more in regards to the people, the atmosphere and the sheer friendliness.

That is what I enjoy most about football in Korea. It is the people. This is a league in which the clubs, the players and the fans have an incredibly close relationship. Watching Suwon Bluewings win the FA Cup recently, what was striking was how the players passed the trophy to their fans after defeating Busan I’Park. It is something is hard to see elsewhere and it was a pleasure to watch.

It is this closeness between the hardcore fans and the players that helps define Korean football. I had the pleasure to be invited to speak at the open day for Incheon United before the 2009 season. Again, I was struck by the easy familiarity between the fans and their heroes. With much of European football becoming one that where clubs increasingly talk of customers or consumers, the relationship between fans and players in Korea is a close one. The fact that all the team buses are covered with good luck graffiti scribbled by fans shows the affection and mutual respect that exists.

This is not to say that the football scene is amateurish. It is not. If you happen to find yourself flying over Korea and are lucky enough to have a

John Duerden Born 1972 in London, Duerden studied politics and economics in London and is a soccer columnist and freelance reporter. He has had articles published in CNN, Associated Press, the Guardian and other soccer publications, and is the editor of Goal.com. He also writes columns for the Asian Football Confederation Website and Total Soccer magazine. Currently living in Seoul since 2002, he is running “Duerden’s Top Corner” in Nate.com. He is a big fan of the Blackburn Rovers.

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window seat that you are in with a great chance of spying one of the ten state-of-the-art stadiums that dot the Land of the Morning Calm. The facilities are great and the football is good. Nine times Korean teams have won the Asian Champions League, the same as the combined totals of the next best two – Japan and Saudi Arabia. It is a record to be proud of.

So you have good football, in great surroundings that all takes place in a relaxed atmosphere. Compare it some European leagues where fans can’t even take a bottle of water into the stadium, in Korea you can pretty much do what you like. Families take in pizzas, fried chicken, squid, beer and anything they fancy.

The hardcore that congregate behind one of the goals don’t eat anything during the match. These boy and girls, and there is a good proportion of females, may grab a quick snack at half-time but as soon as the action starts, they sing, jump up and down and get behind their team. Even if the opposition are winning 3-0, there is little let up in the songs and chants. When the final whistle sounds, the players head to that end of the stadium to celebrate the win with their fans or bow in apology if the result is not what everyone had hoped. There is little aggression. It is all about enjoying a good day out.

I was lucky enough to be here for the 2002 World Cup when I first saw how football could energise a nation in a way that was incredible and beautiful. It was a month in which football showed the power it had to bring people together and to change things for the better. As exciting as it was to see Korea defeat European giants like Italy, Spain and Portugal to go to the semi-finals and put provincial cities such as Daejeon and Gwangju on the global map, it is still in the domestic football that you can find the most joy. I have watched the Korean national team play on four continents but it is back in East Asia where it feels the best.

Look Inside!

Incredible Matches at Korea’s Soccer Stadiums Begun in 1983 with only five teams, as of 2012, K League has 16 teams. Korea is home to the Jeju World Cup Stadium, which was included among the world’s top 10 soccer stadiums; the Suwon World Cup Stadium, which is nickname “Big Bird” for the wing-like roof; and the Gwangju World Cup Stadium, where the legendary quarter-final match of the 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup was held. Here are stadiums that re-wrote the history of Korean soccer.

Seoul World Cup Stadium

Daejeon World Cup Stadium

Showing what Korean architectural beauty

Established in 2001, this soccer stadium has a

is all about, the Seoul World Cup Stadium is

capacity of 40,000 seats. It is the first stadium

Asia’s largest soccer stadium. It has a capacity

in Korea to have iron framed sliding ceilings.

of over 60,000, and it has hosted not only

Home to the Daejeon Citizens FC, this was

the 2002 World Cups, but also hosts various

where the quarter finals of the 2002 World

A-match games. This is the home stadium of

Cup was held.

the FC Seoul.

Address 270 Noeun-dong, Yuseong-gu, Daejeon

Address 515 Seongsan-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Web sisul.

Web djsiseol.or.kr

or.kr/sub04

Pohang Steelyard Incheon Munhak Stadium

Completed in 1990, this was the first soccer

This is an all-inclusive sports complex. Home

field of Korea. Although it is a rather small

to the Incheon United FC, Munhak Stadium

stadium with a capacity of 20,000 seats, with

has a baseball park, track and field track, a

a special 500 seats for its supporters, it is the

soccer field and more. This is where Korean

pride of Pohang. It is the home of the Pohang

National Team made it into the top 16 at the

Steelers.

2002 World Cup

Address 1 Goedong-dong, Nam-gu, Pohang-si, Gyeong

Address 482 Munhak-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon Web in

sangbuk-do Web steelers.co.kr

siseol.net

This is where you see the real Korea.You are greeted as a friend and you leave as one. (Published January 21th, 2011) Seoul World Cup Stadium ⓒKTO

120 | Journey of Korean Literature | 121

Sonagi Village in Yangpyeong-gun and the Gwanghalluwon Garden in Namwon-si,

Such a Romantic Korea

Wanwoljeong is a pavilion in a pond in Gwanghalluwon Garden ⓒKTO

Eve Sinapi Born 1984 in Marseille, France. She has a master’s degree in education and her first visit to Korea was in 2003. Since then she’s worked as a visiting professor in Korea, and has visited 2 more times. In 2008, she fell in love with a Korean man in Daegu and they married in February, 2011. She lives in Daegu, and is still exploring the Korean culture.

My name is Eve Sinapi (in Korea people call me "Eva"), I’m 28 years old and I’m originally from Marseille in the south of France. I left France in August 2007 to come and live in Korea. I still remember very vividly that summer’s day when, alone, I boarded the plane which would take me to Korea and my new life. At the time, I was still just a girl of 24.

Having completed my master’s degree in teaching French as a foreign language in France, I decided to go and teach our beautiful language to the Koreans. And that’s how it came to pass that, at a young age, I took a plane to Korea, a distant land, situated more than 9,000 km from my own. On the day of my departure, although I was enthusiastic about the new experience ahead of me, I was still quite anxious. I wondered whether I would really be happy in Korea, without family, friends or anyone I knew, and without even being able to speak Korean properly, and not knowing anything about the country’s culture and customs. I was worried about feeling lonely in Korea and I wasn’t sure whether I’d be able to adapt to this new and very different life. Every time I had anxious thoughts, I would keep telling myself to ease my not insignificant doubts, "Yes! You can do it! You'll manage!"

Looking back on all that now really makes me laugh. You know why?

Because I’m not the same young girl I was then. I’ve been living in Korea for almost four years now and I must admit that I’ve changed a great deal. I’m no longer that anxious young girl heading towards an uncertain future, but a self-assured young woman who enjoys chatting away in Korean, writing long letters in Korean, eating Korean food at any time of day and who even tries cooking Korean dishes for her husband. And yes, my husband is Korean! We have known each other for three years and enjoy being together every day, singing our heads off to Korean songs and watching Korean films. Now, when I have to go back to France to see my family, I worry about going more than a week without seeing kimchi, and I wonder whether I'll be able to stomach all that bread and cheese! That’s how I am now. When people ask me how I could have changed so much in just four years, I simply tell them I’ve fallen under Korea’s spell. It’s not only that I’ve fallen in love with a Korean. I’ve also fallen in love with this welcoming country, the beautiful language and the Korean culture, which is so different from my own and yet so rich and fascinating. They say that when you fall in love with

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In Gwanghalluwon Garden with my husband ⓒEve Sinapi

I might be French but to me the atmosphere in France is not as romantic as it is here in Korea.

someone, you can change without even realising. Well, the same applies when you fall in love with a country. You can change enormously without even noticing.

When people hear me talking like this, they often ask: "But what exactly is it that’s so charming about Korea? France is such a romantic country, how could you have given it all up for Korea?" The answer is very simple: Korea is also an extremely romantic country! I might be French but to me the atmosphere in France is not as romantic as it is here in Korea. Believe me, it’s true! Korea really is a romantic country!

The romantic charm of Korea In my four years of living in Korea, I’ve travelled around the country a lot and discovered many places with a romantic atmosphere or significance.

For instance I recently had the opportunity to go to Yangpyeong-gun, in the province of Gyeonggi-do in the north part of the country to film an episode of "Miso Korea" (Korea Smile) for the TV channel SBS. This trip gave me

the opportunity to visit "Sonagi Village", the village featured in "Sonagi" (The Rain Showers), a classic Korean novel written by Hwang Sunwon. This village is where the novel is set and I was over the moon to be able to get this unique opportunity to visit it. In actual fact, as a foreigner I wasn’t familiar with the novel until then, but once someone summed up the story about a passionate yet pure love affair between two Korean teenagers, I was very moved and really keen to read it for myself. The tragic end of the story, in particular, so sad and at the same time so romantic, brought to mind Shakespeare’s "Romeo and Juliet". It was then that I realised the Koreans are just as good at telling these sorts of romantic tales as us Europeans! It was such a joy for me to see with my own eyes Yangpyeong-gun, the backdrop of the novel "Sonagi" ("The Rain Showers") and to imagine myself as the heroine!

Gwanghalluwon Garden ⓒKTO

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What really touched me about Hwang Sun-won’s novel was that the characters are two teenagers who fall in love because of the attraction they feel for one another although they come from completely different backgrounds. The young woman is from Seoul, the capital city, and suddenly has to up sticks and move to the country where she meets a

Before we were married, I had a similar experience with my husband when we visited the town of Namwon-si in the province of Jeollabuk-do where we visited the Gwanghalluwon Garden. When I saw the array of different flowers and the park's beautiful natural scenery, my heart skipped a beat. In the spring sunshine, my husband and I could not stop smiling.

boy who is very different to the types she met in the city. She gradually learns to enjoy this new environment – the Korean countryside – together with him. To tell the truth, it’s a bit like the love story that played out between me and my husband. I was only young and from a big French city when I moved to a small village in the Korean province of Gyeongsangbuk-do, where I met my future husband, before moving to Daegu. It’s clear that what brought us together was the fact that we come from two very different worlds but are so emotionally connected and happy together in Korea. I can therefore really identify with this novel, and the fact I was able to visit the village of "Sonagi" in Yangpyeong-gun allowed me to discover another gem of Korean literature and culture.

And this experience also allowed me to experience a special romantic atmosphere which I wouldn’t have found elsewhere.

But that’s not all. Whilst visiting Gwanghalluwon Garden, I discovered the famous Korean love story between "Chun-hyang and Mong-nyong".

Namwon-si is said to be where the legend of "Chun-hyang and Mongnyong" originated. It is a tale of fidelity between two people who have a truly loyal love for one another until the bitter end despite the obstacles life throws at them.

While discovering some elements of the legend for ourselves in Namwon-si, my husband and I wore traditional Korean dress and had our photos taken. And it was then that we vowed always to love and be faithful to one another, just like Chun-hyang and Mong-nyong. It was also then that I understood that Koreans were true romantics too.

But Korea’s romantic charm doesn’t end there. There are countless other wonders in all four corners of the Korean peninsula, not forgetting Jejudo Island, which also oozes romanticism. When I visited Jejudo Island

Hangang River ⓒEve Sinapi

In Jejudo Island with my husband in 2009 ⓒEve Sinapi

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in 2009, I went for a walk in a beautiful place called "Seopjikoji Coast", where I was captivated by the beauty of the sea, which was a much lighter blue than the Mediterranean of my childhood, but which had that same smell of iodine and that same light breeze, and straight away made me feel at home. On the cliff tops surrounded by lush green scenery, I was admiring the tranquil beauty of the landscape with my husband when suddenly I heard the sound of a horse trotting along behind us and noticed a western style church in a stunning setting. On closer inspection, we found out that it was the filming location of the Korean TV series "All in", a very famous show about a love story (again!) between actors Lee Byung-hun and Song Hye-kyo It really was amazing to see this magical setting with our own eyes and to feel a bit like lovers on a television show!

In Seoul, I once went on a mini cruise on the Hangang River, which runs through the heart of the city. During the cruise, I witnessed a truly magnificent sunset, where the red and orange light was reflected in the water of the river, lending a new charm to the city’s skyscrapers. There, too, that sunset gave me goose bumps.

And now that it’s springtime I’m looking forward to going to Gyeongjusi in the eastern part of the country with my husband to see the huge avenues full of cherry blossom in bloom and to take some photos which look like paintings as the colours are so clear and lucid. When walking along those avenues and seeing the white cherry blossom falling all around us like a spring snow shower, we can’t help smiling and feeling the romanticism of the setting wash over us!

I don’t think I’ll ever stop discovering new romantic places in Korea. I recently heard about a small island called "Namiseom Island ( 남이섬)", in the province of Gangwon-do. The island is apparently well-known for being the filming location of the most romantic scenes from the TV show "Winter Sonata (겨울연가)", a phenomenally successful series about a love affair between actors Bae Yong-joon and Choi Ji-woo. I'm told it’s a must-see for all fans of Korean television series and romantics. Which is why I hope to get the chance to go there soon myself!

So there we go: the romantic side of Korea is enough to exhilarate anyone, even a French woman like me! (Published May 13th, 2011)

Look Inside!

Korean Literature Introduced in the World Since 1990, many Korean literary works have translated and published in other languages. In 2011, Shin Kyungsook’s Please Look After Mom was translated and published in 33 languages. The world is slowly showing interest in Korean literature.

When was a Korean book first translated?

Korean Classics Read by the World

In 1889, the English version of Hanguk

Kim Man-jung’s Guunmong (The Cloud Dream

Mindamjip (Folk Tales of Korea) was published

of the Nine) and Lady Hong’s Han joong

in the United States. In 1892 the French

nok (Records of Sorrowful Days) are Korean

edition of Chunhyangjeon was introduced,

classics still sold at amazon.com. Guunmong

and in 1893 Korean Folk and Fairy Tales was

was translated by J.S. Gale in 1922, and was

published in German. The Korean classis novel

published and revised a number of times by

Simcheongjeon was also published in French

the English title, The Cloud Dream of the Nine.

in1895. It has been over 100 years since the

There are also 2 Japanese editions.

first Korean literature was translated.

The 2000s, Glory Days of the Korean Who has the most translated works?

Literature Abroad

Every year, poet Ko Un is a candidate for

Korean novels began to hit bookstands

the Nobel Prize of Literature. Maninbo

around the world in the mid-2000s. Aside

(Ten Thousand Lives) and Hwaeomgyeong,

from works by famous writers like Yi Kwang-

Avatamsaka Sutra have been translated in 15

su and Hwang Sun-won, Choi In-ho’s Firebird,

languages. The 2nd most translated author

and Park Wan-suh’s Who Ate Up All the Shinga

is novelist Yi Mun-yol. Yi has novels like Our

were introduced translated and introduced

Twisted Hero, The Son of Man, and Portrait of

to the world. In 2006, famous Korean writers

my Youth translated and published in various

like Gong Ji-young, Shin Kyung-sook, Kim

foreign languages. Next in line is Lee Cheong-

Young-ha, Jo Kyung-ran and Han Gang have

jun, who wrote Seopyeonje, and Iodo. Lee’s

contracted with distinguished publishes

works are especially popular among German

overseas. They are following the footsteps of

readers. Novelist Hwang Sok-yong’s The

novelists like Hwang Sok-yong and Yi Mun-yol,

Old Garden, and The Guest have also been

who have already made their mark worldwide.

translated into 11 languages.

Hwang Sok-yong <The Old Garden> ⓒSMW

128 | Best Place to Propose | 129

I proposed to my girlfriend at Lotte World, and she couldn’t stop crying

With the parade team at Lotte World ⓒMin Siang & Valencia

To Min Siang and Valensia, who live in Singapore, Lotte World is a place they’ll never forget.

For as long as their love lasts, their memory of Lotte World will also last.

Min Siang:

Min Siang & Valencia Groom-to-be Min Siang, Loy was born in 1985 in Singapore, and currently works at a bank in Singapore. Bride-to-be Valencia, Lin was born in 1984 in Singapore, and she also works are a bank in Singapore. The two first visited Korea 2 years ago, and fell in love with the Korean culture; its food, its fashion, the arts and entertainment, the landscape, the weather, Korean dramas, music and everything else Korea. In May, 2011, the came back to visit Korea, and Min Siang proposed to his girlfriend.

Korea, this was the land we’ve fell in love with since our first visit to the country 2 years ago. Back then, we were reluctant to go back home to Singapore and promised each other that we’ll come back again someday. True enough, 2 years later, we touched down at the Incheon International Airport on the 21st May 2011.

Like 2 years back, we opted for a free-and-easy trip, preferring to be unbounded by the many limitations of joining tour. In particular, I had

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we visited Samcheong-dong – this place is simply marvellous. Despite the upslope walk sometimes, we found it totally enjoyable. We were amazed at how well they’ve maintained residential estates of traditional Korean houses and the peace and serenity of this place.

Soon, the big day arrived, 28th May 2011 – the day which I planned

Night View of Lotte World ⓒLotte World

Lotte World is the perfect magical place in my mind for this proposal ceremony, and I believe to be hers as well.

planned this to be a shopping trip for my beloved lady Valencia. Truth is, I had since long planned a proposal to my then-girlfriend, now someone whom I can proudly address as my fiancée.

We stayed at one of the best shopping areas in Seoul, Myeong-dong. The shops available sell almost everything that we can think of, from the most fashionable clothes to the vast array of skincare products for men and women alike. To top it off, there’re lots of heavenly food around, such as the infamous Myeongdong Gyoza. Believe us - we’ve been to this place for our meals at least 3 times during our stay.Yes it’s that good.

Although we know we could satisfy most of our shopping desires in Myeong-dong alone, I know this trip wouldn’t be complete without visiting other areas in town. We went on to other shopping havens such as Dongdaemun Market, where we can literally shop till we drop since it’s open till 4a.m. in the morning, Ewha Womans University area where fashion goods are sold at reasonable prices, and Hongik University shopping area as well, where we visited the renowned Coffee Prince Café. To take a break from the non-stop shopping endeavours we had,

my proposal for my then-darling with Mr. Shin from Lotte World. Prior to this trip, we’ve been communicating via emails and calls to finalize details, and to make sure all preparation is complete. This is also the first time we’ve visited Lotte 88 in the middle of the audience seats. With the support from the sweet host, I felt boosted with courage to stand up on the float and looking around for my boyfriend, anxiously.

The dancers stepped down from the float and started dancing to the music on the ground. I was swaying to the music along with the host till a surprising slideshow was screened.

There it was the photo of us - my partner and me. Tears of joy burst out uncontrollably as I listened attentively to the speech delivered by Min Siang. Even though, the wordings were in Korean, the screams of happiness from the crowd was exhilarating. The host was looking at me intensely and said to me - "ah... Our future lady..." sending excitement to me.

When the slideshow is over, he walks out with fresh pink roses and the proposal ring. My heart was in a flutter and tears refused to stop flowing out. The cheering from the crowd made me feel like a blushing bride.

Mr. Shin and his crew were busy snapping photos of us as Min Siang came forth to me. "will you marry me?"

How could any girl resist such a pleasant surprise proposal? Almost immediately, I saw the smiles on everyone face and knew that they share the same feeling as me. I nodded and blushed. He came onboard and joined me. Many photos were taken for us to keep as fond memories.

The videographer has been very professional in taking down the entire proposal.

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The float brought us to a restaurant where we have a mini march in with the dancers lined up at both sides of the entrance. Friendly and approachable Mr. Shin was in great smiles when the proposal was successful. Guiding us to our table was Mr. Shin and the crew, not forgetting Lotty and Lorry - the perfect couple mascots that have been so spontaneous in participating in the surprise planned by the management and my boyfriend.

28th May 2011 - a day we will never forget. A day where I have received many well wishes from the amicable locals. A day where I had my memorable proposal - that made me feel like a royal princess.

Thank you Lotte world, Mr. Shin and the team, the crowd who witnessed the proposal for your warm greetings.

The following day came when we had to say goodbye to Korea, where we have had so much fun, laughter, joy and magical moments. We were once again reluctant to leave and really can’t wait till we visit again, for we know how much this place amazes us and more importantly, this is the place we’ll always remember for our perfect proposal.

Reason why I chose to propose in Korea

First of all, we love this place since our first visit to the place. Secondly, I know my fiancée has always loved sweet memories and would want to have a magical and memorable proposal. I, too, want to give her a very sweet and pleasant proposal. Most important of all, I want to make her feel like a princess on this very magical day. Having the proposal set in a theme park, to me, is a very magical event, and even more so, Lotte World is one of the best theme parks I’ve seen from all my research done online and I’m truly amazed and proved my point correct when I visited this place. So Lotte World is the perfect magical place in my mind for this proposal ceremony, and I believe to be hers as well. (Published July 15th, 2011)

Look Inside!

Romantic Spots in SEOUL Falling in love is very easy in Seoul. With a population of over 10 million, Seoul has more romantic spots than anywhere else in the world. Amusement parks like Lotte World, observatories, parks, and other romantic places are always filled with couples in love.

Night View of the Hangang River ⓒKTO

Loop Restaurant at the N Tower Seoul ⓒKTO

N Seoul Tower

63 City Observatory

Standing atop Namsan Mountain, the N Seoul Tower

The bright and colorful night scene of the skyscrapers

offers a spectacular view of the city. The view of the sun

along the Hangang River is stunning. That is why the 63 City

setting over the Hangang River, and skyscrapers lighting

Observatory is a popular date location. The observatory on

up the city at night, it just couldn’t get any prettier. The

the 60th floor is 264 m above sea level. The “Love Elevator”

restaurant rotates a full 360 degrees every 48 minutes

is another romantic feature of the 63 City.

so that where ever you sit, you can see the entire city

Address 60 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul

in front of you. On the outdoor observatory, couples

Web 63.co.kr

secured their love by hanging a lock on the fence, and throwing the key over the fence.

Address 1-3 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Web nseoul tower.com

Hangang Park Seoul’s Hangang Park is favorite date and outing area. You can enjoy the cool breeze of the Hangang River while on a yacht or a duck peddle boat. If you’re

Proposal Wall at Cheonggyecheon Stream

the adventurous type, water skiing, wakeboarding,

Along Cheonggyecheon Stream, is a guaranteed

or other water sports are also available. You can

proposal site. You can make reservations at their

also plan your romantic proposal here. Contact the

Website (propose.sisul.or.kr), and there is a large

Website for detailed information.

screen where you can show videos or photos. About a

Address [ Yeouido Hangang Par k] 8 Yeouido - dong,

third of the couples who fell in love here, have walked

Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul, [Nanji District] 487-257 Sangam-

down the aisle.

Address 540 Majang-dong, Seongdong-gu, Seoul Web propose. sisul.or.kr

dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, [Jamsil District] 1-1 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul Web hangang.seoul.go.kr

134 | K-pop Live | 135

Rain’s CD cover ⓒSMW

Elementary English teacher during week,

K-pop fanatic on weekends

Big Bang poster ⓒSMW

5 years ago I stumbled upon a K-POP video while on Youtube. It was Rain’s “I’m Coming.” My first reaction was “Whoa! What was that?!”

My second reaction was intense curiosity. Seconds later, I began searching the Internet to learn more about Rain. It didn’t take long for me to fall in love with K-POP. I love K-POP because of the catchy beats, the innovative music videos, the amazing concerts, the handsome guys and beautiful girls, the talented singers and mostly because I appreciate the hard work it takes to become successful. K-POP groups and singers are extremely dedicated to constantly improving themselves. I also love K-POP because fans get to know their favorite idols, singers and groups very well thanks to TV performances, TV shows, concerts and fan meets. My favorite groups and singers are JYJ, Rain, DBSK (TVXQ), Big Bang, SHINEE, 2AM, FT Island, BEAST, Afterschool, KARA, 2NE1, MBLAQ, Park Hyo-shin, Seo In-guk, Se7en, Navi, and Clazziquai.

K-POP is special because it combines Korean lyrics with catchy English phrases. International fans might not know the Korean lyrics at first, but they can sing along with the English lyrics. K-POP is also unique

Alia Rachel Jones Born 1988 in the U.S., Jones studied Cultural Anthropology at Cornell. She’s been teaching English at an elementary school in Daegu since 2010. She likes listening to k-pop, enjoys Lolita fashion, sawing and making beaded accessories. She’s an English teacher by day and a k-pop fanatic by night.

Neon sticks I used at K-pop star concerts ⓒAlia Rachel Jones

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2AM CD ⓒSMW

MBLAQ CD ⓒSMW

In my senior year of college, I won a Fulbright grant to teach English in Korea. I wanted to come to Korea because of my Korean studies and cultural anthropology backgrounds, my strong interest in early childhood development and because it was a chance to experience Korean culture.

I also saw it as an opportunity to finally experience K-POP live. I’ve been living in Korea for a year now as an elementary school teacher.

K-POP helps me connect with my students because they love it just as much as I do! My life in Korea has been a mix of daily interaction with my students and co-teachers and running to Seoul on the weekends for K-POP concerts.

because the songs are very vibrant and the idols have irresistible charm and charisma (김준수짱!).

Thanks to the Internet and fans that translate Korean song lyrics and post videos, I was able to learn about Korean music. K-POP is now a global phenomenon because of fans around the world that share a love for Korea’s talented singers and groups. The ease of sharing media and information globally enables anyone to become a K-POP fan now. I spent my college years watching K-POP videos and reading English K-POP blogs. This helped me feel connected to my favorite groups even though I was living thousands of miles away in the United States.

K-POP is a powerful tool for cultural exchange. K-POP was the main reason why I started to have an interest in Korean culture. In college, as an Anthropology major, I was excited about learning about different cultures. Because I loved K-POP so much, I started to watch Korean dramas and films, I enrolled in Korean history and culture classes, I went to “Korea Nights,” I went to samulnori performances, I saw traditional Korean dances, I ate kimchi in the dining hall, and I became interested in Korean language. I hung posters of DBSK and Rain in my dorm room and constantly answered questions like “Why do you like Korean music so much?” My answer was always, “Because it is awesome. You should try listening to it.” Then I would give them a list of K-POP singers and show them music videos.

I’ve gone to 14 K-POP concerts since last August: Park Hyo-shin “Gift 2”, the Hallyu Dream Festival, FT Island’s “Beautiful Journey”, “JYJ The Beginning Worldwide Concert in Seoul”, Asia Song Festival/ G20 Concert 2010, YG Family Concert 2010, Clazziquai Christmas Eve Concert in Daegu, 2AM “Saint O’Clock”, Rain “Adieu! 2010”, SHINEE the 1st Concert in Seoul (both days), B2ST’s “Welcome Back to B2ST Airlines”, BIG BANG’s 2011 BIG SHOW, and the 2011 Dream Concert. Also, I am an official “Cloud” (Rain’s Fan Club).

While living in Korea, my life has been very much intertwined with K-POP and I wouldn’t have it any other way. K-POP is a major part of Korean popular culture and each concert that I’ve attended has been an amazing display of fan loyalty, excitement and heartfelt enthusiasm. Being a part of a sea of glow-sticks and learning the fan-chants, or being down on the ground floor amidst the screaming fans trying to desperately get closer to the singers, creates unforgettable memories. K-POP has been a part of my life for a long time and it will continue to be. I will ALWAYS KEEP THE FAITH. (Published August 12th, 2011)

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Look Inside!

Ardent Fan Culture of Korea Stars and their fans can’t be separated. Korea, the home of K-pop, probably has the most passionate and dedicated fan culture in the world. Although the large crowds of fan around the world have caused some trouble, in recent years, fans go beyond yelling and cheering for their star. A whole new culture of fans has arrived.

Ageless Fans

Live Shows

About 10 years ago, the crowds of people

Meeting your favorite star is not so easy. But

following the stars were usually teenaged

you can see a free shows and performances

girls. But in recent years, the age and gender

of singers by going to television show

of fans has no barriers. These older “big

recordings. You can request tickets online.

brother” and “big sister” fan groups have

For dates and availability, check the Websites

become a protective ring around their stars.

below.

Colorful Fan Clubs

[SBS Music Trend] (Inki Gayo) (Sundays 3:40p.m.,

Each fan club in Korea has its own distinct

Live) Web tv.sbs.co.kr/gayo

color. For instance, TVXQ’s color is a pearly

co.kr/2tv/enter/musicbank

sapphire blue and Girls’ Generation’ color is

[Mnet M Countdown] (Thursdays 6:00p.m., Live)

a pastel pink. Even in large concerts, you can

Web mnet.mnet.com/NProgram/mcountdown2

differentiate the fan clubs by the color of balloons. Because it is so easy to tell whose fan club it is, the fan culture has become more orderly and mannerly.

The Evolving Fan Culture In previous years, fandom was proved by how much they loved their stars. But in recent years that has changed. Today’s fan clubs do volunteer work, donations and such in the name of their stars and their fan club. The negative image these fans used to have is gradually changing to a positive energy and culture.

“2012 K-pop Cover Dance Festival” finalists from around the world and citizens of Korea performing K-pop flashmob featuring Psy’s Gangnam Style at the Gwanghwamun Plaza ⓒVKC

[KBS Music Bank] (Fridays 6:10p.m., Live) Web kbs.

[MBC Show Music Core] (Show Eumak Jungsim) (Saturdays 4:00p.m., Live) Web imbc.com/broad/tv/ ent/musiccore

140 | Tour of the Korean Night Life | 141

Partying at clubs, noraebang, DVDbang, then relaxing at a jjimjilbang Christina Ritts decided to settle in Korea after experiencing the country's nightlife.

Ritts said that the Korean nightlife, including the flashing lights, crowds of people, loud music and energy, is like no other.

I still remember my first night in Korea. Flashing lights, crowds of people, loud music and energy like no other filled the bustling streets. It was like the streets of Korea came alive at night. I was surprised by all the busyness that was happening around me at 3:00 in the morning. I was even more surprised that it lasted until 7:00 in the morning. In America, most everything closes at about 1:00a.m. Experiencing this first night in Korea was a culture shock to me, but in a good way. One of the reasons why I’m still in Korea three years later is because of the nightlife here. I’ve traveled to many countries, and I have to say, the Korean nightlife is like no other.

Where I’m from in New Jersey, there is a big Korean population. There are many Korean restaurants, stores and marts. At times, when I would walk into a restaurant, I would see people with bottles of soju. I knew soju was Korea’s most popular alcoholic beverage and was a great way to taste the authenticity of Korea, but I actually never tried it until I came to Korea.

Christina Ritt Born 1984 in the U.S., Ritt came to Korea in 2009 to see her sister. She was initially planning to stay only a month, but one month became two, then three, and now it’s been three years. Her hobby is learning K-pop dance moves, and she learned Korean while teaching English to elementary school students. Currently, she is traveling around Korea.

Night life ⓒChristina Ritt

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The first time I tried soju, it tasted similar to vodka, except with a lighter taste. It was good, but what I really became addicted to and still am today is fruit soju! Fruit soju is my favorite drink in Korea, and is basically soju mixed with fruit juice. There are a lot of flavors, such as pineapple, lemon, blueberry, kiwi and even yogurt. They are all so delicious, but I prefer strawberry soju the most! It tends to be a ‘girly’ type of drink because it’s pretty sweet, and at times I have to be careful how much I drink because it can taste like sweet juice. Here in Korea, you can’t drink soju without playing drinking games. It’s part of their culture. Some of the most popular drinking games played are ‘Baskin Robbins 31’, ‘Chopsticks’ and ‘Bottlecap’.

These are only a few out of many games played here. When walking into a hof or a bar, it is common to see people of all ages (legal) shouting, full of energy and acting enthusiastically. The people around them do not care because they are probably acting the same way, and it’s perfectly normal.

Koreans really know how to have a good time, and now I can’t drink my strawberry soju without playing a few drinking games.

The true beauty of Korea are the illuminating views at night. One of the most spectacular views I’ve seen is the Hangang River night view in Seoul.

The colors of the water sparkle and the city as a whole become magnified.

The view of N Seoul Tower and Banpodaegyo bridge are some of the sites that light up and make the city shine like a gem. As I was capturing the essence of the view, I thought to myself, “This would make a perfect date place if I had a boyfriend”. I looked around me and saw many couples laying on their blankets looking into the scenery, and I felt a little envious.

I knew I wanted to come back here with my future boyfriend. It truly is an amazing and romantic place to take your loved one, and is really a memorable experience no matter who you are with. An even more amazing experience is to actually be part of the night scenery in Seoul.The Hangang River ferry cruise is an enchanting and magical evening trip that is unforgettable. The most popular ferry port to depart from is in Yeouido.

The ferry flows through the middle of Seoul on the Hangang River.

Feeling the gentle breeze and seeing the serene atmosphere makes one feel so peaceful. My first summer in Korea, I went on the Hangang River ferry cruise with my sister, and we both enjoyed every minute of it. The 63CITY building and the Jamsil Sports Complex are some of the many famous tourist spots we saw. On the ferry, there is live music and a buffet

Enjoying the exciting nightlife of Korea with my sister ⓒChristina Ritt

for everyone to enjoy. One of the most spectacular moments was when we saw the sunset. The city glowed and everyone on the ferry was taken back by how even more beautiful the city became. Overall, the Hangang River ferry cruise was breathtaking and a highlight of our evening.

Usually when I’m up for a night out with friends, I go to the edgy parts of Seoul, such as Hongik University District or Gangnam Area. These hot spots are filled with bars, clubs, cafes and shops on every street. There are a wide range of dance clubs with hip hop music, techno music, and even places to watch live music. I’m the type of person that can dance the night away! So naturally, I discovered many dance clubs in both Hongik

144 145

with. In America, karaoke is where one sings in front of the whole facility, and can be quite embarrassing from what I have heard from my friends.

If up for a movie night, there is always a DVD room near by. Whoever you’re with, friends, family, boyfriend or girlfriend, it’s great to catch a movie on a big screen in your own private room, while sitting or laying

At a noraebang (singing room) ⓒChristina Ritt

down comfortably on a big sofa. There are even drinks and food you can purchase. DVD rooms have an array of movies to rent from, so there is a movie for everyone. I go to a DVD bang at least once a month, because there’s nothing like this in America, and I think the whole idea of having your own private movie room is awesome. Even though many Koreans say DVD bangs are mostly for couples, for intimate reasons, I think it’s a fun and relaxing place to spend with friends or family. Usually after a fun night

University District and Gangnam Area. Some of my favorite clubs include NB, Eden and Club Naked. What’s funny is the first time I stepped into a club here, everyone was facing the D.J. In America, everyone dances all over the place, facing all directions. I was very curious about it so I asked my friend, but she didn’t know either. Till this day, it still remains a bit of a mystery to me, but I do know Koreans love to dance and really express themselves through music. If I ever need a break from dancing, and usually I do after dancing for hours and hours, I go to a bar or restaurant , which are usually filled with people up until the early morning. Even at 5:00 in the morning, people line up at the food vendors to munch on some topokki (Small cylinder rice cakes with a spicy red sauce) and eomuk (Fish cakes on s stick).

One of the first words I learned in Korean was “bang”, which translates to ‘room’. In Korea, many activities revolve around rooms, such as karaoke rooms, DVD rooms and saunas. And many of these rooms are open twenty-four-seven. Koreans love to sing, and in my opinion, are quite good at it. I think they can sing well due to the numerous karaoke rooms everywhere in Korea. I can spot about 10 karaoke rooms on one street, and sometimes, even more. I am not much of a singer, so at times, I tend to get a bit nervous singing in front of my friends. But I realized nobody really cares if you’re good or not. What I like most about karaoke in Korea is that it’s private. The only people you sing in front of are the people you came

Hongik Univ. Street ⓒKTO

146 147

out, I like to go to a jjimjilbang (sauna). A jjimjilbang is a place to sleep, relax, and experience a bath like no other. One can’t leave Korea without visiting a jjimjilbang. Whether going just for the experience or just tired from a long night out and can’t afford to take a taxi home at 4:00 in the morning, one can always stay at a jjimjilbang for a cheap price. The average price is around 8,000-12,000 won. I enjoy getting a scrub, massaged and soaking in a variety of baths. If I could, I would go to a jjimjilbang everyday!

Korea is really a country that doesn’t sleep. Whether looking for a romantic night out or a place to catch up with friends, nightlife in Korea can be for everyone. With such a variety of diverse entertainment, the Korean nightlife is an experience one can’t ever forget. I think I can remember most every night out in Korea because I always have such a great time.

Korea’s interesting and lively nightlife is truly an impressive and remarkable one. I am looking forward to having many more memorable nights and to continue sharing the wonderful experiences I have had here in Korea.

(Published August 20th, 2011)

Look Inside!

A Guide to Korean “Bang” Although translated to ‘room’ in English, the Korean bang has a different connotation. In Korean bang refers to an area where a group of people can share their lives. Recently, many multi-purposed bangs have surfaced.

Unique ‘play rooms’ are especially popular among the young crowd.

Why rooms?

Rooms, how to have fun?

Used to a communal lifestyle, Koreans enjoy spending

It’s easy to have fun at these “bang.” It’s all in the name.

time together. In the olden days, scholars would

At a PCbang, you use the computer, at a singing

gather in a room and read together and chat. This

room, you sing without having to worry about people

tradition has evolved into the “bang” culture of today.

looking at you. All you have to do to have fun a “room”

These rooms aren’t just for communicating with

is do that the name tells you.

friends, but it is also a place of bonding.

A Guide to Jjimjilbang Which “bang ” should I go to?

First, you have to pay, and then they’ll give a uniform

The 3 most representative “bang” of Korean include

and towels. There are different men’s and women’s

the noraebang, where you can sing any your

sections. You start by taking a quick shower, then

favorite songs; the jjimjilbang, a Korean style sauna;

change into the jjimjilbang clothes. You should start

and the PCbang, or internet cafe. There are also

with the lower temperature rooms. In between rooms

sojubang, where you can sit for shot of soju with

go to the ice room to cool off, an enjoy an ice cold jug

friends, and DVDbang, where you can watch DVDs.

of sikhye, rice punch, and eggs. Other favorite snacks

Beside entertainment focused rooms, there are also

include persimmon vinegar, miyeokguk (seaweed

noribang, which is similar to a daycare, gongbubang,

soup), or naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles).

or study rooms, sleeping rooms, oxygen rooms,

Inside the jjimjilbang, there are nail salons, massage

kneading rooms, and much more.

chairs, TVs, and more.

Noraebang ⓒKTO

Jjimjilbang ⓒKTO

148 | Exploring the Alleys of Seoul | 149

Experience the Depth of Seoul in the Small Alleys Between the Tall Buildings

Cheongpa-dong ⓒRobert Koehler

On Sunday, I was wandering about the Cheongpa-dong neighborhood, exploring its labyrinth of hillside alleyways that overlook the densely packed homes and apartments of Yongsan-gu. One of Seoul’s most typical golmok-gil, or alleyway walks, Cheongpa-dong is like walking back in time to the days before high-rises and skyscrapers dominated the skyline.

During the Japanese colonial era, it was a favored by Japanese settlers as a residential district; hidden in its alleys, one can still find a few exotic Japanese homes from the 1920s or 1930s, their stucco walls and Japanesestyle roofs contrasting sharply with the latter constructions that surround them. After Korea’s liberation from colonial rule in 1945, wealthy Koreans moved into the neighborhood; some acquired the homes left behind by the Japanese, while others built Korean-style hanok homes, some of which still stand. After the Korean War, as Korea began to develop, many parts of the district were renovated or redeveloped to use as clothing factories, taking advantage of the proximity of Namdaemun Market. The houses,

too, began to change—in the 1970s, residents began building brick and concrete stand-alone houses, or munhwa jutaek (modern house). Once one of Seoul’s most affluent neighborhoods—something of the Apgujeongdong of its day—it is now very much a working-class district, albeit one that is an outdoor museum of the city’s modern history.

One small but very special piece of this history is hidden in an alleyway just off the main street of the bustling Malli Market. A seemingly ramshackle building of mixed Japanese and Korean style, the Seongwoo Yiyongwon is Korea’s oldest surviving barber shop. A virtual national treasure, Lee Nam-yeol has been cutting hair for 47 years; his grandfather, only Korea’s second licensed barber, founded the establishment in 1927.

Little has changed over the years—even the glass in the windows, some of it held together by tape, is original. Depending on when you go, you may have to wait—word of mouth, and some write-ups in the national press, brings customers from throughout Seoul and even from outside the city, and Lee, even the perfectionist, does not rush his art. Still, waiting is part of the experience—like any good barber, Lee is quite the conversationalist, and the sound of his dancing sheers is positively entrancing. “They played the sound of my scissors three times on the radio,” notes Lee with a smile.

It’s neighborhoods such as this one that make Seoul such a fascinating place to live. It is frequently said that despite its 600 years of history as Korea’s capital, Seoul lacks the same kind of charm as other historic cities around the world. While undoubtedly less true that it used to be, the criticism was not completely without basis—Japanese imperialism, the Korean War and development-era urban redevelopment had irrevocably changed the face of Seoul, destroying much of the city’s historic and cultural heritage. To many, the city seemed little more than an uninspiring gray mass of ugly concrete apartments and steel and glass towers.

Robert Koehler Born 1974 in the U.S., Robert Koehler came to Korea in 1997 as an English teacher in Mungyeong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Six years later, he moved to Seoul for a job at Seoul Selection, a publishing company that focuses on books promoting the Korean culture worldwide. In 2009, he wrote the Seoul Selection Guide based on his 13 year Korean experience, for which he won the “Best Foreign Journalist award at the Seoul Tourism Awards 2010. He is currently the editor of the monthly travel and culture magazine, Seoul.

150 151

I confess that I, too, initially shared this sentiment. I spent my first years in Korea in the picturesque and heritage-rich countrysides of southern Korea; after getting a job as a translator for a national newspaper, I moved to Seoul, but not without a sense of trepidation. To be sure, Seoul was a convenient place to live with fine shops, good schools, decent Western restaurants and—more to the point—better employment and career opportunities. But would I be happy here? Was not Seoul, in the end, a concrete jungle, with little in the way of spirit, history or soul?

Seoul’s a funny place, though—the city grows on you. They say the more you know about something, the more lovable it becomes, and that’s certainly the case with Seoul. True, the tragedies suffered by the city throughout its modern history robbed it of much of its architectural and cultural heritage. But not all of it. Indeed, a surprising amount of the Seoul’s history still survives under a skyline of concrete, glass and steel. In every neighborhood, we can find fascinating and often beautiful pieces of the city’s past. Some pieces of this heritage, like the five royal palaces or Bukchon Hanok Village, are obvious and visited by all. Much of the city’s heritage, however, is hidden away in little-visited alleyways in places like Cheongpa-dong or hidden in plain sight, with millions passing by daily but few recognizing their true value.

Not far from where I live, for example, on a high school campus secluded in a back alley just past Yongsan Electronic Mart, is a small red and gray brick church on a hill that once overlooked the Hangang River. It’s an incredibly atmospheric place, an oasis of tranquility in the heart of the metropolis. Few people could even tell you that it’s there, however, let alone that it’s over a century old, or that it was built by the same French priest who built the more famous Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral. But its this anonymity what lends the church, and so much of Seoul, its particular charm.

I’ve lived in Seoul for over eight years. I’ve spent much of that time exploring the cities nooks and crannies, scouring its alleys, mountains and riversides for pieces of its history and culture. I’ve even written a guidebook to the city. There are times when I think I’ve seen it all, but hardly a week goes by without me discovering a new treasure I didn’t know about, or a new aspect to a favorite destination. As I sip a cup of coffee in Lee Nam-yeol’s barber shop, enjoying the sweet music of the artists’ scissors, I contemplate the beauty of this truly special city. (Published February 3rd, 2012)

Look Inside!

Newly Renovated Alleys of Seoul Seoul changes every day. Old buildings are demolished and new buildings come in, and new apartments are raised in small towns. As urbanization continues, many small alleys are on the verge of disappearing. But still, there are a few places in Seoul where you can see and feel history.

Ihwa-dong Mural Village ⓒKTO

Ihwa-dong Mural Village ⓒKTO

Ihwa-dong Mural Village

Hongje-dong Ant Village

Samseon-dong Long Life Village

This is a representative daldongne

This is a cluster of small houses

Located between Seoul Fortress

(literally “moon village” for being

located by the entrance of the

and Hansung University is

a poor village on a hill close to

I nwa n g s a n M o u nt a i n h i k i n g

Samseon Park. Stairs, alleys and

the moon) close to the young

trail. The hardworking people of

an embankment surrounding

and lively Street of Youth in the

this village are often compared

the park form this village. The

Daehangno area. Located on

to hardworking ants, hence the

houses are lined along the steep

the hills of Naksan Mountain,

name of the village. Many small

hill that stretches toward the

downtown Seoul can be seen

alleys stem from the main street

Seoul Fortress Wall. Students

from this village. In 2006, the

of the village, and young ar t

o f H a n s u n g U n i ve r s i t y h ave

“Public Art Project” began the

students have decorated the walls

colorfully decorated the walls of

renovation of Ihwa-dong. Over

of the village. Love and affection

the village. The murals portray the

70 young artists painted murals

can be felt in the alleys of Ant

young energy and enthusiasm of

on walls and installed art works

Village.

the students. Many tourists visit

throughout the village. Flowers

Address Hongje-dong, Seodaemun-

this village to catch a glimpse of

decorate the stairways and a maze

gu, Seoul

this cute village.

of alleys have turned this old

Address Samseon-dong 1-ga, Seong

village into a new art village full of

buk-gu, Seoul

life and energy.

Address Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

152 | Korean Popular Music | 153

I got to know Korean songs through Chu Ga-yeoul, and felt the Korean ‘jeong’ through Shim Su-bong How do you like Korea? A question that I have been faced with since I arrived to Seoul in October 2010 to set up the embassy after almost 49 good years of diplomatic relations between our two countries. That October Seoul was the host of the G20 Summit and our offices were initially set up at Lotte Hotel Seoul in downtown’s Myeong-dong.

Traffic in the capital is never easy, so I thought to myself, how would it be possible to move around 20 heads of states and their entourage and what have you in such conditions? The Korean Government issued a plea to the people to use public transportation during the Summit. I was amazed how the public responded graciously and traffic was actually much smoother. Hence, my first developed impression on Korea that its people are really dedicated and responsible. They are also kind, supportive and helpful – especially to strangers.

Living in Seoul for the past year and a half, I find it amazing how family and friendship values and respect is maintained given the fact that life in this well developed, advanced and colourful country can be very fast.

Maintaining the deep rooted heritage and presenting a shiny image of Korea in all aspects is something I feel almost everyone in this great nation is committed to contributing to. Hat’s off...

Music, soul food, is also something that Koreans have developed a great taste for. I have had the pleasure of experiencing traditional Korean music performances and Korean pop songs that are becoming an international phenomenon really and simply a pleasure to experience.

In Seoul today, I enjoy Korean songs, and try to learn the lyrics as well, in a bid to increase the volume of my Korean word pile and get a better understanding or a sense of what really matters to our friends here.

Songs I really came to appreciate in Korea are by Ms. Shim Soo-bong, for example, and by Mr. Chu Ga-yeoul, who I now know personally I am happy to add. I first heard one of his songs being played by a live band at Lotte, the title “나 같은 건 없는 건가요.(Is There No Room for

Chu Ga-yeoul 3rd Album ⓒOmar Al-Nahar

Omar Al-Nahar Born 1969 in Jordan, Omar Al-Nahar learned English through pop music. He studied politics and business administration in Jordan and started his jobs at the Jordan Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1992. In October of 2010 he was the first Ambassador of Jordan to be appointed to Korea. As he was preparing the opening of the Jordan Embassy in Seoul, he became interest in Korean song after hearing Chu Ga-yeoul’s songs. He liked Korean songs so much that he installed a karaoke machine at the embassy and improved his Korean by singing Korean songs.

Chu Ga-yeoul 3rd Album Titled "There are Different Ways to Happiness," Chu Ga-yeoul's 3rd album contains "나 같은 건 없는 건가요.(Is There No Room For Me?)" Ambassador Omar Al-Nahar has Chu's signed CD, and he still sings along Chu's songs downloaded on his iphone.

154 155

Me?)” The song’s beat, the rhythm, is quite fresh and captivating at the same time and really got me curious about Korean music.

Look Inside!

When I asked about the singer someone told said Chu Ga-yeoul. What came to mind almost instantly was that I really wanted to meet this Chu

Top 10 Songs Koreans Love

Ga-yeoul to thank him for the music... A few weeks later it so happened that I was having dinner with a good doctor friend of mine from Seoul National University Hospital who offered to make the introduction since, he told me, he knows Mr. Chu and that held a charity performance at his hospital before. Not too long after I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Chu and we had a good night out with friends. He, unsurprisingly, enchanted us with his crystal like voice. To my mind, he is a great singer, a magnificent guitarist and composer and truly noteworthy. People sing his songs all the time, and although initially I did not know what the song is about, it got me hooked to Korean songs that I am always happily sharing with Korean and other friends. A most effective tool of communication, if I may add, especially in the absence of my Korean language skills...

To Koreans reading this, your Republic has something good to offer to the world in many aspects than what meets the eye really by virtue of its people, their commitment and strive towards a better way life. May you prosper...

In 2011, a list of the Top 10 most loved Korean songs was released. In memory of the 46th anniversary of Korean FM radio, the Korea Broadcasting System surveyed 26,272 radio listeners. The No. 1 song was “Gwanghwamun Yeonga (Gwanghwamun Sonata)” released over 20 years ago.

Learn Korean Through <Gwanghwamun Sonata> Even though time has changed everything without a trace, the Deoksugung Palace Stonewall Road still has couples walking hand in hand. Even though we too will be gone with time, down the hill on Jeongdong-gil A snow-covered church will still remain. When my heart longs for the flowery scents of May, to the snowy Gwanghwamun Intersection I come again.

No. 1. Gwanghwamun Sonata (Gwanghwamun Yeonga )

song of the Seo Taiji & Boys. This

Ballad released in 1988 by Lee

began the hip-hop craze in Korea.

Moon-sae. The lyrics portray the

How do you like Korea? I simply love it… (Published March 16

, 2012)

No. 8. Candy This was the title song of H.O.T’s first

romantic atmosphere of area

No. 5. Morning Dew (Achim Iseul )

album release in 1996. H.O.T. started

between Deoksugung Palace and

This was the debut song of folk

the boy-band craze in Korea.

Gwanghwamun Gate.

singer Yang Hee-eun in 1970. This

No. 2. My Love, By My Side (Nae Sarang Nae Gyeotae ) Released in 1991, this is the last

th

superstar with this song.

3-member band was a sensation and

song Kim Hyun-shik, who died

was an era when young voices

No. 9. Gee

wanted to be heard. And this song

This is the 2009 hit song of the

put Korean music at a top level.

world-famous girl group Girls’ Generation. Their colorful skinny

only months after the release.

No. 6. Come Back to Busanhang Port (Dorawayo Busanhangeh )

You can feel his love for singing

This was a remake of a 1970s song

through his voice.

titled “Come Back to Chungmuhang Port” Cho Yong-pil sang the song in

No. 3. Because I Love You (Saranghagi Ttaemunae )

jeans and cute choreography stole the hearts of fans worldwide through UCCs.

1975 and became a national song

No. 10. Dance with D.O.C. (D.O.C. wa Hamkkae Chumeul )

that even spread to Japanese fans.

This was a 1997 hit song of the

Released in 1987, Yu Jae-ha was

dynamic hip-hop trio DJ DOC. This

a genius singer-song writer he

No. 7. To J (Jey Ege )

song got the whole country doing

was killed in a car accident after

This was the Grand Prize winning

the “bus driver dance.” Everyone

releasing only one album. This

song at the 1984 Gangbyeon

automatically stretched their arms

song is about himself.

Song Festival sung by Lee Sun-

as if holding the driving wheel of

hee. The words depict the sweet

a bus and moving side to side.

No. 4. I know (Nan Arayo )

love about a person with the

Release in 1992, this was the title

initial J. Lee Sun-hee became a

156 | Busan's Sajik Baseball Park | 157

I’m one of those guys from the other side of the world. Though, sometimes it feels like I’m completely from another world. I even have the card to prove it. I’m a registered alien. Moving to a different country exposes us to many new experiences. And while some hit me negatively and took time to get used to, others were surprisingly refreshing. I caught myself saying, “Why don’t we do things like this in Texas?” For example, one of those was eating out of the same stew bowl with others at my table. It made me feel close to those with me. Even my germaphobe friend was dipping his spoon in the same stew bowl with me before long. This new world was full of new experiences to have.

Another set of great new experiences were at the ballpark in Sajik-dong.

I like my baseball as much as the next guy, but this was so much more than just baseball. You may say, “Actually baseball really isn't my thing.”

That's okay. I've met several people who love going to the baseball game and still don't know the rules. There are many other things that attract people to baseball games than just baseball. It's like a party. Busan is a baseball city so fans are really passionate about the Lotte Giants. They cheer, shout, sing, boo, chant and yell even if they don't know the rules.

In Sajik Baseball Park, you will find the baseball culture found in most stadiums around the world. But you will also find some very unique things. Fans don’t only do the wave, but in Sajik-dong they also do a slow motion wave and there is a special cheer for every player. Many

While Screaming for the “Busan Galmaegi”

I too became a Citizen of Busan

Busan Sajik Stadium ⓒJoongAng Daily

Matthew Ambrosia Born 1976 in Texas, Ambrosia met Korean friends in graduate school. He was introduced to Korean food and culture through his friends, and the more he knew, the more he wanted to know. His first trip to Korea was in September of 2001 for a mission trip, and 4 years later he finished his doctorate degree at Pusan National University. As of 2012, he is a professor at the Catholic University of Pusan.

fans make pompoms out of newspapers to cheer with. And if you're lucky enough to score some tickets on the first base side you can see the sexy cheerleaders dance and cheer. It's enough to get any red-blooded American guy's heart pumping... or any guy for that matter. Other events between innings keep the fun going like kiss time, dancing king, and other performances by the cheerleaders and other mascots.

On top of that, here some things that are really unique to Busan baseball.

Near the end of the game stadium officials pass out garbage bags to get fans involved in helping with the clean-up, but fans fill them with air and tie them on their heads to show team spirit. And there are many variations of this too, from huge hair bows to masks to cute, eared hoods made from garbage bags. The fans will also sing a song of Busan pride, “Busan Galmaegi.” There is always something going on to keep the fans involved.

158 159

a ring on my girlfriend's finger. She became my fiancée and agreed to be my girl forever. She will be our future family’s assistant coach and will help raise our own team of little baseball players. My fiancée doesn’t know much about baseball yet. We’ve only started dating this year. But I know the best place to teach her, Sajik Baseball Park! The Giants won At the Busan Sajik Stadium with my fiancé ⓒMatthew Ambrosia

One of the first things I noticed about Sajik Baseball Park was all the vendors outside the stadium selling food and drinks. Can you really buy food and bring it inside the stadium? Yes, you can! Buy chicken, gimbap, beer, or pizza in front of the stadium or go to the nearby superstore get what you want there, but avoid bringing glass containers into the stadium. And in case you didn't bring enough food, don't worry the food in the stadium is not too expensive either. Unlike at a MBL game, you don't have to get a mortgage for a mid-inning snack.

Also the admission is very reasonable. General admission tickets are only 7,000 won and tickets along the baseline are only 10,000 won.

The average Major League Baseball ticket is now almost $27. And with those monster stadiums in the west, you still may not be able to see very well. Sajik Baseball Park only holds 28,000 fans, you are always close to the action. However, the games on the weekends are often sold out so you have to get your tickets soon. A Korean friend can help you reserve tickets online or you can buy general admission tickets up to the day before the game at Busan Bank.

Most recently I went to a game with my girlfriend. Thanks to a Kim Juchan homerun the Giants jumped to an early lead and held on to win the game 6-3. It was quite an exciting game. Being at the game was great, but being with my girlfriend that day was like a dream, so I asked her if I could live in that dream with her for the rest of my life. Later, I slipped

their game and I won my fiancée's heart. It was a perfect day, a day I will never forget.

This alien is feeling less and less like an alien and more and more like an authentic Busan citizen. I've had many exciting, new experiences in Busan, and I know I will have many more in the future. (Published July 6th, 2012)

Busan Sajik Stadium ⓒMatthew Ambrosia

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Look Inside!

Korean Professional Baseball and its Passionate Fans March 27, 1982 is very significant day to Korean baseball fans. March 27th is the birthday of Korean baseball.

Although it has a short history compared to the States, the fans’ passion for the sport is second to none. Baseball season starts in April and ends in October, and every year eight teams play off.

Batter No. 10

Jamsil Stadium ⓒMr.Koo

There are many other things that attract people to baseball games than just baseball.

It's like a party.

Baseball fanatics dress differently. They

recommends going to see a game at

wear the full uniform from head to toe, and

Busan’s Sajik Baseball Park. First of all, you’ll

they follow the team to home and away

see people wearing orange trash bags every

games. They scream and shout at the top of

way they can: on their heads, as ribbons, as

their lungs and consider themselves as part

t-shirts and more. You’ll also see pompoms

of the team. These devoted fans are called

made of shredded newspaper.

“Batter No. 10.”

Food Comes First Know the Words

Unlike ball parks in the States, in Korea,

Each team has a cheer song. On critical

you can bring in your own food. The

times, when the team needs help, no

chicken+beer combo is a must at Korean

doubt you’ll hear the bleachers singing

ball parks. The Munhak Stadium in Incheon,

and screaming the team’s song. In you

SK Wiverns’ home park, even has a “Barbecue

don’t want to look like a fool, make sure

Zone” so people can have a bbq while

you know the words to your team’s cheer

watching the game. There is also a “Green

song. Samsung Lions—Daegu Changa; Kia

Zone” where people can bring a spread and

Tigers—Mudeunggol Tigers and Namhaeng

have a picnic on the grass. Each stadium has

Yeolcha; Lotte Giants—Busan Galmaegi; SK

a favorite snack: Seoul’s Jamsil Stadium has

Wiverns—Yeonan Budu; Doosan Bears—Ya,

hamburger and chicken; Gwangju Stadium

ya, ya Doosan and Apartment.

has jokbal (pigs’ trotters); and Daejeon Stadium has udong.

Cute, Fun and Wacky Cheering The things you see at Korean ball parks will shock you. Inflatable sticks, headbands with athletes’ names, colored handkerchiefs and boards; these are the normal cheering instruments you’ll see. If you want to see a wackier crowd, Matthew Ambrosia

Lotte fans wearing orange trashbags on their heads at Jamsil Stadium ⓒMr.Koo

162 | Incheon International Airport | 163

See the Korean Wisdom at the Traditional Korean Cultural Experience Zone for Transit Travelers

Incheon International Airport ⓒKTO

Han Xiang Ji 韓香子 Born 1983 in China, Han’s first visit to Korea was in 2006. Two years later she started working at the Beijing airport branch of Korean Airlines as a service instructor. She was dispatched as the Transit Passengers’ Team at the Incheon Int’l Airport for 6 months. Although she’s back in China now, she still misses Incheon Int’l Airport very much. She has a great interest in Korea, and the hospitality industry of Korea.

My first visit to Korea was about six years ago by Korean Air. The Cabin crew offered as ‘beautiful’ service as their beautiful looks. After taking off, a member of the crew handed an ointment and bandage to me at the end of in-flight meals. I never asked for them but she sensibly noticed a cut on my hand, which I had on the day before the trip. I was so impressed with her thoughtfulness which she could have easily overlooked as it was so trivial. I still remember the name of the ointment

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and bandage and often buy them when I visit Korea. Good impressions about Korea remain intact in them and I believe good ties with Korea may perhaps have started from that incident.

shower, restaurants, coffee shops, duty free stores offering a wide selection of shopping items ranging from inexpensive to famous brands, traditional Korean cultural experience zone, transfer/transit tour, bookstores and hotels.

Who said 'Even a person who brushes your sleeve by is predestined by your karma?'

In 2008, as if by magic, I got a job from Korean Air where my good memory of Korea started and have worked ever since as a customer services instructor in the China region. In addition I was lucky enough to get work in the Incheon International Airport branch office of Korean Air, for six months on transfer from the beginning of this year and a chance to reconfirm profundity of karma.

My duty at the transit passenger team is working in the field for the convenience of passengers travelling to the third country using Incheon International Airport as a transit port. Although I have worked here only for five months, it was enough time to experience every aspect of Incheon International Airport which has been gaining a worldwide reputation.

Especially, Incheon International Airport is distinct from other airports in terms of bringing out Korea’s aesthetic beauty. Promoting inherent Korean culture delicately, Incheon International Airport has another advantage of being the first and last place to deliver beautiful memories about Korea to its customers.

My favorite place in Incheon International Airport is the traditional Korean cultural experience zone.Visitors can appreciate traditional music and can make and take away traditional crafts. Is there any better souvenir from Korea than these? Recently I dropped by the experience zone for my friend’s wedding gift I drew traditional Korean patterns on a wooden material provided by the zone and wrote a congratulatory wedding message with a brush. My friend was over the moon upon receiving my cordial wedding gift.

From the perspective of an airlines employee working for Incheon International Airport and as a foreigner, Incheon International Airport always brings me novelty and wonder. The best service is offered to everyone regardless of age and gender – Koreans, foreigners, departing/arriving passengers and transfer/transit passengers – whoever use the airport.

As an airlines crew member, I have used a number of airports in the world but I think Incheon International Airport is simply top notch by offering the perfect service in both hardware and software, having been selected as the world’s best airport for seven consecutive years.

First, Incheon International Airport offers the best convenience to customers by flexible operation of plenty of immigration desks, convenient transfer/transit systems, etc, depending on the number of airport users. In addition, the airport offers a variety of entertainment and amenities such as lounge, internet facility, kids’ playground, free

Korea Traditional Cultural Experience Center at Incheon International Airport ⓒHan Xiang Ji

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A traditional craft gallery located on the 4th floor of the Departures Terminal offers traditional Korean sentiment, where I sometimes time travel. You can feel the very breath of traditional Korean wisdom and pursuits of beauty can be found in traditional ceramics, agricultural instruments and apparel of old times.

I developed my own way of using the airport from a number of trips through Incheon International Airport. When I head for my destination from China through Incheon International Airport, I drop by the traditional cultural experience zone. I complete ‘my own unique artwork’ for about 40 minutes, go to a bookstore to buy a travel guide and move to the lounge on the fourth floor to enjoy the rest of the time at my leisure.

When I come back from a trip, tired and exhausted, I go to a shower place. Other international airports do not offer a shower place or charge even if there is one. When there is plenty of time, I sometimes get a massage. After recharging myself in body and spirit, I go to a duty free store to buy various items needed. With all good memories from the trip and full of shopping bags big and small, boarding an airplane is putting a ‘period’ to a satisfactory trip.

Look Inside!

The Best Airport in the World for 7 Consecutive Years, Incheon International Airport With its opening in 2001, the Incheon Int’l Airport (airport.kr) has since become “the” airport of Korea, and a major airport of Asia. Every year, the Airport Council International (ACI) conducts the Airport Service Quality test, and the Incheon Int’l Airport has been voted No. 1 for 7 consecutive years since 2005. This is merely a place of transport, it is a multi-purpose facility that please all.

Rest, Play and Enjoyment Over 30 million passengers stop by the Incheon

traditional performances and experience

Int’l Airport yearly. Being the IT country that

programs, are frequented by travelers.

is it, the lounge provides high-speed internet,

Additionally, the Traditional Craft Gallery and

and an IT experience center. There is also a

the Arrival Hall Culture Street at the Transfer

sauna, a playroom, a golf club, and more.

Lounge on the 4th floor of the Passenger

Additionally, there is a skating rink open 365

Terminal are also worth a visit.

days of the year, and a movie theater as well.

Airport Observatory, Joy to the Eyes All-in-one Convenience

At the Airstar Terrace in the observatory on

The Incheon Int’l Airport offers pretty much

the 4th floor of the Passenger Terminal, you

everything you may need during your stay

can see the busy runways. If you have some

My work on transfer duty at Incheon International Airport is about to end. Who said, karma is ‘ineffable’? The period when I have worked at Incheon International Airport as a foreign staff of Korean Air reminds me of my indescribable and mysterious connection with Korean Air and Incheon International Airport and their growth will make me happy.

in Korea. You a rent a cellular phone, send a

time to spare, the Oseongsan Observatory on

package or letter home, rent a car, get your

Yeongjongdo Island’s Oseongsan Mountain

hair done, dry cleaning, wash your car, get

is highly recommended. You can the entire

glasses, and if you don’t feel good, there’s

airport from here, and road that stretches

also a hospital and a pharmacy. There is also

from the parking lot to the observatory offers

a prayer room that can be used by anyone

a spectacular view of nature. It’s 20 minutes

(Published July 20th, 2012)

regardless of religion. And of course, there is a

from the airport by car.

business center.

Experiencing the Korean Culture For first time travelers to Korea, the airport the cultural facilities at the airport couldn’t be any more useful. The Korean Culture Museum, which is co-operated with the National Museum of Korea, and the Traditional Culture Experience Zone, which provides various

168 | Train Journey | 169

Every time I hear the chimney whistle of a train, I will have a sudden urge to go for a tour. I finally had the train ride of my dreams in Korea.

In China, the train is merely a mode of transportation, but the train in Korea can be treated as a luxury hotel along the tracks.

Romance in Public Transportation

Korea’s Haerang Rail Cruise started from Seoul Station, which runs at a speed of 100 km/h. The main itinerary included going through the South West (SW) of Korea, the South East (SE) Korea, or the whole of Korea for 2D1N or 3D2N, which will end back in Seoul Station.

The rooms in the Haerang Rail Cruise are in the form of clean and neat hotel-style rooms, with posh ambience-filled restaurants, and large lounge areas. Passengers can sleep in their hotel-room styled rooms, so that Haerang Rail Cruise passengers can visit many touristy places in Korea during the 2D1N (or 3D2N). Compared with the usual train express tours, Haerang Rail Cruise is not only comfy and convenient, but also brings the hotel onboard your train journey.

For this summer holiday, I wanted to have first-hand experience of the Korean culture and the passion of the Korean people. Therefore my best friend and I have decided to take the Haerang Rail Cruise to go through

Filling lunch box ⓒJin May-ling

Jin May-ling 金美玲 Born 1989 in Guangzhou, Jin May-ling fell in love with Korea through dramas. In 2008 she decided to come to Korea and enrolled herself at Konkuk University.

She joined the school’s foreigners’ service center and the leisure sports club. She took part in promoting Korea by being a supporter of Dokdo Island, a university supporter of the Visit Korea Committee, and more. As of 2012, she is a senior at Konkuk University majoring in Business Administration.

the SE of Korea. I heard that the famous scenic spots where many stars had their dramas filmed were in Korea. Therefore, I wanted to express for myself what it was like to be the female protagonist of a Korean drama.

At 8:15a.m., we assembled at a cafe at Seoul Station. Passengers of the Haerang Rail Cruise shall enjoy a free cup of coffee. After allocating the rooms and distributing the keys, we were ready to hop aboard. The train’s exterior was magnificent. We could see the train’s interior design from outside. But not to worry, the windows have curtains.

The Haerang Rail Cruise was ready to start off. I started exploring the bedroom with a heart full of curiosity. The rooms in the Haerang Rail Cruise were no different from ordinary hotel rooms, as they were divided into deluxe rooms, standard rooms, family rooms, and suites. Facilities such as indoor beds, bathrooms (shower rooms), TVs were in place. Here, we

170 171

can also enjoy ourselves in an in-train cinema. Apart from the facilities listed above, the deluxe rooms also come with a separate home theatre and sofa seats. The rooms also came with clothes hangers, paper towels, slippers, mirrors, litter bins, telephones, and others. The bathrooms were equipped with hair dryers, towels, a wash basin, and toiletries.

Performances also included performances by the train crew, whereby they had prepared different talent shows for passengers of different ages.

Children’s songs were sung for children, and a gayageum performance was prepared for the elderly. The passengers also raised their hands to cheer for the performers. The hot favorite was the magic show, whereby

I couldn’t believe that I could find so much in a train. Therefore, all I would need to bring onboard the Haerang Rail Cruise was just a few sets of clothes.

the magician prepared an empty bottle to show a child that there was nothing inside. The child would verify that the magician has sprinkled magic powder into the empty bottle. After tapping the empty bottle lightly, it will be filled with water. Everybody gradually opened up their hearts as the crew members engaged the passengers with activities.

The train’s lounge would include an introduction of the train crew and there were performances in store for us. Before the programs started, the crew would inform all the passengers to proceed to the large lounge to watch the performance.

After the introduction of the train crew, everyone in the train shall start giving their self-introductions, and the friendly service crew members shall without a doubt, provide their services with smiles, and accede to the reasonable requests of passengers. They are determined to strive to create a comfortable and happy travelling and leisure environment for their passengers. The self-introduction of the passengers was really heart-moving.

During the lounge performances, the staff will prepare some wine, soft drinks, dried beef, fruits, and cheese, so that they can enjoy eating while watching the performance.

During lunchtime onboard Haerang Rail Cruise, the phones in the rooms shall ring at lunch time to inform the passenger to proceed to the dining cabin for lunch. The dining cabin was by no means inferior to any

On board with us were two sisters who had lost their mother, so they boarded the Haerang Rail Cruise to lift their moods. Passengers included a family of six that was on board to celebrate their grandfather’s birthday, a sweet couple with a baby, a touching old couple whereby one was taking care of the other who was sickly, university students who were getting ready to leave their parents for further studies, and university students who are on holiday. We can see that they love and care for the person next to them, since that person is their family member or friend who is close to them, Everyone on board Haerang Rail Cruise had a touching story to tell. Be it good or bad, travelling with friends or family is a wonderful thing. Through the self-introduction of the passengers, I also felt blessed. When confronting difficulties in future, I shall recall the struggles they shared. Whenever I went for train tours with my parents or friends in China, I was happy.

However, onboard the Haerang Rail Cruise, I really felt a heartmoving warmth.

Haerang Rail Cruise ⓒKORAIL Tourism Development

172 173

the Haerang Rail Cruise bedrooms are slightly smaller than hotel bedrooms, and also shake regularly as the train moves. The fees charged at the scenic spots are not a lot. The Haerang Rail Cruise staff shall introduce the scenic spots while following the passengers.

Haerang Rail Cruise and its friendly crew ⓒJin May-ling

ordinary restaurant, filled with ambience, necessarily equipped as would an ordinary restaurant, and with first class service rendered. Keeping in line with the environmental conservation movement, Haerang Rail Cruise does not use disposable lunch boxes. Beef and fish will be served in these high-end lunch boxes, and they tasted unique and exquisite.

Taking into consideration the health of the passengers, the in-train kitchen staff also prepared raw vegetables, chilies, garlic, and doenjang.

The beef-lettuce ssambap was very tasty. Also included were the famous kimchi, and ojingeo jeotgal. With all these, one big bowl of rice wouldn’t seem enough. The friendly service staff will be standing around ready to serve. Another plus point about Haerang Rail Cruise was that there was no surcharge on extra food consumed no matter how much you ate, since the meal price has been included in the train ticket price.

Several magazines are available in the cabins, with a whole array of the latest DVDs. The cabin also provided free internet. I have never seen a train as luxurious and comfortable as this.

Aura Tour (Around the whole of Korea through SW and SE of Korea, and along the Yellow Sea) Although the Haerang Rail Cruise is slightly expensive, it includes food and lodging. Therefore, it is possible to rest comfortably in the train’s hotel-room style bedroom, and enjoy views of Korea’s scenic areas while the train is moving. Such a tour provides a form of novelty. The beds in

Seoul Station – POSCO Pohang Iron & Steel Co. (site bus tour and en route factory visit) – Wolseong Yangdong Village, Gyeongju-si (experience Korean history) – Dinner (Gyeongju Hanjeongsik), Chongdong Theatre Gyeongju Performance Show <Miso2-Silla, The Land of the Gods> – (Day 2) Jeongdongjin (view of sunrise) – Mangsang Station (ocean view) – Breakfast (hwangtae Soup) – Mureung Valley (Fun at the valley), Samhwasa Temple (Pray to Buddha) – Taebaek Station, lunch (Taebaek Korean Beef ) – Chujeon Station – Group photo (train station with the highest elevation in Korea) – arrive at Seoul station.

On the first day we visited the POSCO Pohang Iron & Steel Co,. Since the steel factory was very large, we went for a bus tour to view the inside of the steel factory. I saw smoke coming out of their many chimneys that formed what appeared like moving clouds. Entering the steel factory, I saw that the workers were wearing masks since the steel factory had a lot of soot. There was no rain on that day, but the ground was full of water. If we take a closer look, there were a number of small taps along the road. Many trees were planted to purify the air. A while later, I saw the harbor and a large cargo ship. I was so impressed. I didn’t expect there to be a harbor within a factory. There were a number of small hills within the factory premises containing materials for steelmaking and water-park-like transport tubes. I simply can’t expect less from the world’s largest steel factory. In the afternoon, we proceeded to watch the signature performance of Gyeongjusi at Chongdong Theatre – Miso2. Miso was a stage performance show that included the Korean national music, dance, and agricultural music. Since this performance did not include any spoken lines, you won’t need to understand Korean to appreciate this performance. The performers will present their story to you through music and dance, and foreign tourists can relax and enjoy the Korean cultural performance. Not long ago, I watched a foreign musical in Korea. Although the performance had spoken lines, I could not understand the story in the musical. However, the Miso2 performance had

174 175

me drawn into the story, and the impression left on me was deep. The stage itself was dazzling as the lights kept changing according to the different music, scenes, and costumes, which left us in perpetual awe. The dance moves and expressions of the performers were very lively. I have never seen such a fantastic performance. I recommend that every visitor to Korea or foreigner friend should watch Miso2. After the performance was over, you could take photos together with the performers, and you could also do so while donning the traditional Korean hanbok. I’ve seen a number of tourists from China watching the performance.

On the second day, the train stopped at Jeongdongjin Station where the distance between the station and the sea was the shortest in the world, allowing us to watch the sunrise. At around 4a.m., I donned my overcoat, took out my camera and hurried out of the train. I didn’t expect the train to stop by the seaside. Many people were waiting at Jeongdongjin Station to watch the sunrise. The morning seaside temperature was freezing, but I waited a while more for the sun to rise. Finally, I witnessed the first streaks of golden rays rising from the east. All of a sudden, the seaside was painted scarlet, so fast that no one had the time to think that this is a sunrise. When I saw the sunrise, I closed my eyes and made a wish. I wished to experience more surprises in Korea that I won’t forget for a lifetime. The Korean drama “Sandglass” was filmed in Jeongdongjin, and “We Got Married”, a Korean drama which is a hot favorite in Mainland China was also filmed in Jeongdongjin. In future, I will want to visit Jeongdongjin with my boyfriend to watch the sunrise. This is very beautiful and romantic.

I saw quite a number of scenic views during the 2D1N, all thanks to Haerang Rail Cruise. If not for Haerang Rail Cruise, I certainly won’t have been able to cover so many places in such a short time, and won’t have been able to enjoy such luxurious services either. (Published August 17th, 2012)

Look Inside!

A Romantic Train Journey What’s so romantic and dreamy about a train journey? Riding the train through the night, or traveling along the coastline, taking the train wherever it is you are going to, will make your memories a bit more romantic and dreamy. Below are a few of Korea’s unique train rides.

Sea Train This Sea Train runs along the East Sea between

do, Yangpyeong in Gyeonggi-do, Daecheon in

Gangneung-si, Donghae-si and Samcheok-

Chungcheongnam-do, and Mungyeong-si in

si in Gangwon-do. Because the seats of the

Gyeongsangbuk-do.

train are facing the window, tourists can enjoy

[Jeongseon Railbike] Address 290-4 Guseok-ri,

the refreshing view of the East Sea during

Yeoryang-myeon, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-do

the entire 58-km-ride. Every day, 2 to 3 trains

Web railbike.co.kr [Samcheok Ocean Railbike] Address 146-10 Gung

depart from both Gangneung Station and

chon-ri, Geundeok-myeon, Samcheok-si, Gangwon-

Samcheok Station, and it takes about 1 hour

do Web oceanrailbike.com

and 20 minutes one-way.

Address [Samcheok Station] 51-4 Sajik-dong, Samcheok-

Seomjingang Steam Locomotive

si, Gangwon-do, [Gangneung Station] 118 Gyo 2-dong,

This is a 10-km railroad between Gokseong

Gangneung-si, Gangwon-do Web seatrain.co.kr

Railbike 4-wheeled pedal bikes run on recycled train rails. Depending on how hard you pedal, you can control the speed and enjoy the surrounding view and nature. Railbikes are available in Jeongseon-gun and Samcheok-si in Gangwon-do, Gokseong-gun in Jeollnam-

Station and Gajeong Station in Jeollanam-do.

A steam locomotive runs along Seomjingang River at a speed of 30 to 40 km/h. This could be a time spent to yourself. It is 80 minutes round-trip and it departs from Seomjingang Train Village, the country’s first train-themed park.

Address 232-1 Gichamaeul-ro, Oji-ri, Ogok-myeon, Gokseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Web gstrain.co.kr

Seomjingang Train Village ⓒKTO

Taste of Korea

176 177

Danny Wen

Marja Vongerichten

Jeonju Bibimbap

Native Foods of Korea

-

-

Chua Lam

Pierre Gagnaire

Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area

Tour of Traditional Markets

-

-

Fouz Khalid Khan

Jennifer Flinn

Korean Street Food

Food Culture of Andong-si

Nature, Health & Body Hanjeongsik â&#x201C;&#x2019;Korea House

178 | Jeonju Bibimbap | 179

To be honest, before my trip to Korea, my understanding of the country was limited to bulgogi and kimchi as well as the Shin Ramen (spicy instant noodles) that do not get sodden no matter how long you cook them.

My view of Korean cuisine was narrow as I first came into contact with it in the form of lunch box exchanges with a couple of Korean students in college when I lived in Los Angeles years ago. I remembered the fiery kimchi which did not smell too pleasant but left an exceptional culinary impression with its tart but surprisingly appealing taste. Unfortunately, I began to lose interest after five lunches with varying combinations of kimchi that looked about the same. However, it was because of this experience that I came to know about the role and significance of kimchi in the Korean culture and it also formally opened the first door for me to Korean cuisine.

A spoonful of colorful ingredients,

wow!

Subsequently, I followed my Korean friends to Koreatown in Los Angeles and came to know about bulgogi. Not only did it change my wrong perception that Korean food only consisted of the cold and pickled kimchi, it also showed me the intricate aspect of Korean cuisine. By wrapping grilled meat that has been dipped in bean and chilli sauces and slices of garlic and some rice in fresh lettuces, one gets to savor a multilayered symphony of tastes, not to mention balanced nutrition from the vegetable, meat and rice combination. A small bite and yet a generous dose of healthy living. It was a truly fascinating encounter.

It goes without saying that I also came to know about and enjoy the Shin (spicy) brand of Korean instant goodness through my Korean friends. It

Danny Wen Born 1967 in Taiwan, Danny Wen is the most famous and influential travel reporter in Taiwan. Since his debut in 1992, he has published 18 guidebooks and cooking books, most of which have become bestsellers. He has appeared on TV and radio show and has also been featured on various magazines.

Jeonju bibimbap â&#x201C;&#x2019;Danny Wen

180 181

bibimbap were remarkable and mind-blowing. It was already a visual treat even before I tasted it.

Gochujang ⓒKTO

was another of my great discoveries of fresh and interesting conveniences in life. However, after more than a decade of living in Los Angeles, my knowledge of Korean cuisine was sadly limited to these three items.

My visit to Korea proved to be an eye opener as it presented to me the diversity of the country’s cuisine in the form of ginseng chicken soup, cold noodles, chicken congee, tofu pot noodles and raw beef salad, as well as the delicate Korean table d'hote, which was simply delectable, and its varied methods of preparation was mind blowing. However, the most unforgettable flavor that I experienced in my Jeollabuk-do trip had to be the bibimbap which tasted out of this world.

I could not help but keep taking pictures of this masterpiece in front of me but my friends were urging me to mix the ingredients in the pot. I did pause but was hesitant about breaking up such a work of art. Then again, I would be missing the essence of bibimbap if I did not mix its ingredients. It would defeat the purpose of me taking a three-hour ride from Seoul to Jeonju to sample the top-ranking dish in Korean cuisine.

Hence, bracing myself, I lifted the metal spoon and stirred the ingredients furiously and mindlessly. “That’s right!” said my Korean friend who was beaming at me from across the table. “The more evenly mixed it is, the better it tastes.”

The funny thing was that although the mixed bibimbap looked far from pretty, it tasted out of this world and I could not stop helping myself to it. It was such joy stuffing my mouth with it while exchanging knowing looks of “This is delicious!” with those around me.

I remember that when the waitress at the restaurant placed the brass pot of bibimbap on my table, my eyes were immediately drawn to its colorful contents and I was almost oblivious to the other delicious side dishes on the table. I gently lifted the pot and tilted it left and right as if I was closely examining and enjoying a work of art.

I was visually counting the number of ingredients that had been placed on the rice in the pot and I could not help but grin even wider as the number rose. Those sharing my table might not have heard any sigh of amazement but I was silently taken aback in wonderment. The art and aesthetics in the small smorgasbord of plebeian cuisine that was Jeonju

Dolsot bibimbap (bibimbap served in a hot stone pot) ⓒKTO

182 183

I was surprised, in particular, by the role of the hot sauce in bibimbap.

I thought it would be strong and mask the other flavors in the pot. To my amazement, the slightly sweet condiment plays an important role of balancing and harmonizing the various ingredients. It also enhances their flavors and acts as seasoning, allowing one to taste the different flavors of the ingredients as well as stimulating the secretion of saliva with its mildly spicy taste. It was complete satisfaction on an emotional level and truly moving.

I cannot remember the name of the well-known person who said the Jeonju bibimbap was plebeian cuisine that was not presentable. I beg to differ and the person who made such a comment was more likely ignorant about appreciating and enjoying fine cuisine. To me, the finest cuisine is anything that tastes great or makes one’s taste buds dance with joy. Not only is the Jeonju bibimbap an artistic treat that pleases our senses of taste and sight, it is also a cultural thanksgiving. More importantly, not only does the marriage of various ingredients and rice smell, taste and look heavenly, it is a well-balanced dish and I truly believe it should be considered one of the healthiest dishes from a nutritional point of view.

I slowly finished my last mouthful and declared with a contented smile, “The three-hour journey is truly worth it for a taste of such bliss” - a statement that was greeted with a round of applause from my satisfied company. th

(Published January 7 , 2011)

Look Inside!

Useful Guide to Korean Snacks Bulgogi, kimchi, ramyeon, bibimbap, etc. These are just the tip of the iceberg. Beginning with the basic table setting of rice, soup and simple side dishes of the commoners, to the elaborate 12-dish table of the king, the Korean table is an assortment of rich tastes and flavors.

Doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) ⓒKTO

Bulgogi (grilled marinated beef) ⓒKTO

The Basic Table Setting

Guk vs. Tang vs. Jjigae

The Korean table is meant to be eaten with rice,

The Korean table must have a soup dish. Guk, tang,

therefore unlike other countries, a Korean meal table

and jjigae are all soup based dishes that even Koreans

consists of a bowl of rice and soup, and a few side

have a hard time differentiating. Guk, or soup, has

dishes served at once. Although in recent years the

more water than solid ingredients; tang, or casserole,

western custom of dividing the meal in a number

has less water and more meats and vegetables; and

courses— appetizer, entrees and desserts— the

finally jjigae, or stew, has about the same amount of

traditional Korean meal has only one course.

both.

Odd Number of Side Dishes

Noodles, a Special Dish for Noblemen

Hansik, or Korean food, was traditionally a single-

Noodles are normally thought of as economical and

person table, and the higher your rank was in the

good for a light meal. But, in the Joseon Dynasty,

family, the number of side dishes on the table

noodles were a specialty served to guests. Back in the

increased. Rice and soup were the most basic, and

days, most of the farmland was rice fields, and so flour

kimchi, jjigae (stew), and condiments were not

was valuable. Flour noodles were an expensive food

considered side dishes. Depending on the number of

that even noblemen only enjoyed on special days.

side dishes the table was called sam-cheop (3-dish)

This is why to this day, noodles are always served at a

or o-cheop (5-dish) table. The number of side dishes

Korean wedding.

on the table were always odd, 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. except for that of the king, in which case it was called surasang and had 12 side dishes.

184 | Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area | 185

“Korean food is not delicious. Is there anything else to eat other than Samgyeopsal: sliced bacons?” It is easy to find those who criticize Korean food like this among Hong Kong netizens. However I would call them ‘a big fish in a little pond’. The Korean foods I’ve tasted so far were all different and distinctive in their own right. After my trip to Gwangju, I

Food critic from Hong Kong can’t stop eating Namdo food

could confirm that I was not far off the mark.

Koreans do not react when I talk about Seoul or Busan, but they put thumbs up when they are told that I am going to eat in Gwangju.

Transportation from Seoul to Gwangju was not very convenient before but it takes only four hours by car after Ex-president, Kim Dae-jung built a direct expressway.

After arriving in Gwangju, I headed for Yeonggwang-gun as soon as I did unpacking at the lodging. Crape myrtles were lined along the road all the way down to Yeonggwang-gun. I was really surprised to learn that Korea spends a lot of money for environmental landscaping. I stumbled upon a rock, carved in Chinese characters, saying “This is the first arrival place of Baekje Dynasty Buddhism”. Buddhism was introduced to Korea in AD 384. There is a Christian Martyrs’place as well as Buddhist martyrs’ in Yeonggwang-gun. Christianity (Catholics and Protestants) and Buddhism are centered on Yeonggwang-gun as its place name suitably suggests, “Spirits Shine”.

But the purpose of this trip was to look for a yellow croaker. Yellow croakers are already endangered in the South of the Yangtze River but

Chua Lam 蔡瀾 Born 1941 in Singapore. From 1963, Chua produced several movies in Hong Kong, including various Jackie Chen movies. Since the 1980s he has worked as a travel and food columnist and has published over 100 books on travel and food. He is a respected food critic with 14 restaurants. In 2007 he put together a book on Korean food.

Juktongbap (rice cooked in a bamboo canister) ⓒKTO

186 187

give out a strong ammonia smell when being fermented. But a wrap of a piece of dried yellow croaker, samgyeopsal and matured kimchi would give another distinct flavor.

Although I was full up, I had to visit other restaurants to learn about

Chua Lam eating baemjangeo gui (grilled eel) ⓒJoongAng Daily

Goseong-gun near Yeonggwang-gun is a natural habitat for them. Yellow croakers captured here are sent to fisheries market all over the country.

I asked a friend what a yellow croaker is called in Korean when I saw them in clusters tied together. I was told that ‘dried’ yellow croakers are called gulbi in Korea.

Koreans consider Korean beef to be a quality gift, but gulbi is considered to be of a higher quality. Chinese think eating fresh yellow croakers are very important but Koreans have different ideas. Koreans think that dried and charcoal-grilled yellow croakers; boneless meat carved out, taken with drinks are most delicious. I purchased a few fresh yellow croakers at a local market after looking for them high and low and took them to the best local restaurant to have them cooked. At this restaurant 30 to 40 side dishes are served and a main dish is gulbi. The first dish was a stewed gulbi, which was salted, but its original fresh taste still remained.

I was not able to eat the next dish, a dried yellow croaker (gulbi) because the texture of the meat was too tough and passed it onto Korean friends.

But gulbi broth which was boiled with tofu using a restaurant’s special sauce was very delicious. Another dish was a salted gulbi, and it would

various foods in Gwangju region. This time I was in for freshwater eels.

There was fire on the table and a female chef brought out two eels and began to grill one on each side. On the left hand side was an unseasoned eel and a marinated eel with hot pepper paste was on the right hand side.

Before grilling, two eels were half done because they were already steamed.

I ate an unseasoned eel dipping in sauce and its thick meat was oily, shiny and delicious. A seasoned one was also soft and fresh, preserving eel’s inherent flavor without any loss or damage. I have not tasted such fresh eels for a long time. I have tried foods from the sea and the river and it was time for food taken from the mountains. So I went to try juktongbap which cooks brown rice, red jujubes and rice in a large bamboo tube.

Opening the lid of juktongbap helps release the scent of rice and bamboo ever so gently. In addition to juktongbap, there is a juktongju: Bamboo liquor. There is a hole at the back of the bamboo tube; I wonder how liquor was poured into it.

To add more flavor to the juktongbap, I ordered a beef rib dish which looked different from the one I tried before. I asked the chef the name

I was told that ‘dried’ yellow croakers are called gulbi in Korea.

Gulbi ⓒKTO

188 189

of the dish and she answered, “filial rib!” It is called a filial rib because the rib meat is carved and sliced to make it soft so that the elderly can easily eat the meat. As such ‘filial affection’ is a traditional Korean virtue.

Korean set meals, especially a set meal in Gwangju offers a variety of dishes as good as a banquet. In a set meal, there are rice, soup and other dishes which you may like or not. Anyway there are bound to be your favorite dishes among them for sure. While waiting for dishes, I wandered around the restaurant. Many pots were lined up in a row and all different kinds of vegetables were planted in a garden. It is important that some dishes are served with vegetables and one of them is “bossam kimchi”. The dish which is made of minced beef and soy sauce put on a crab carapace can be found only in Gwangju.

Look Inside!

Hansik Dishes Recommended by Chua Lam Known as the food god of Hong Kong, food columnist Chua Lam has done interviews with JoongAng Daily newspaper in 2010 and 2011 regarding the globalization of Korean food. He enjoys Korean food, and here, he introduces a few of his favorite dishes.

Hongeo Samhap with kimchi (fermented skate and steamed pork slices served) ⓒKTO

After main dishes were served on the table, a pine mushroom dish, a panfried beef dish with spring onions and gulbi follow. A soup made of seaweed and oysters was served but not very tasty. But once you taste soy milk you know that it is excellent with its fragrance.The dishes are not salty, therefore ordinary customers can enjoy them and especially customers who enjoy food can appreciate the flavor. Another special dish is a squid. By appearance it doesn’t seem to be special but the squid is cut in the shape of a tire and filled with minced squid meat. There isn’t any sweet dish in Korean food but if you’d like a strong deep sweet taste, a pumpkin boiled with sugar would be a good choice. If you’d like a light sweet taste, a jujube tea is recommended. With all these delicious dishes from southern areas, who says Korean food is not tasty and can’t fill the stomach? (Published February 25th, 2011)

Galbijjim (braised short ribs) served in a stone pot ⓒKTO

Jeonbok Samgyetang

Gulbi gui

Samgyetang is a nutritious soup

Yellow corvina is salted then left

samgyeopsal (pork belly), and

made by boiling a whole chicken

to air dry on the beach. When

kimchi. The combination of the

stuffed with ginseng, glutinous

the fish is dry, it is called gulbi.

three is called hongeo samhap.

rice, jujubes, milk vetch root and

The best gulbi is that made with

According to Chua Lam, this is an

chestnuts. An upgraded version of

yellow corvina caught in March in

acquired taste no other country

jeonbok samgyetang, is samgyetang

Yeonggwang-gun, Jeollanam-do.

can offer.

with abalone(jeonbok). Abalone

Although there are various way to

adds flavor and nutrition to the

cook gulbi, braised or grilled are

Galbijjim

already delicious and nutritious

the most popular. When my Hong

Probably a favorite among foreign

samgyetang.

Kong friends tried gulbi for the

tourists, when making galbijjim,

first time, they finished a bowl of

pork or beef ribs are marinated

rice in no time.

and simmered until meat is soft

Maesaengi guk Maesaengi (seaweed fulvescens)

and tender. Chua Lam recommends

grows in clean and shallow waters.

Hongeo Samhap

It is easy to find during the cold

Hongeo, or skate is fermented in

winters especially in the Jeollanam-

an earthen pot with salt and a

do and Gyeongsangnam-do. It is

bundle of straw. Fermented skate

usually cooked with oysters, and it

can cooked in various ways, but

is high is iron, potassium, protein,

no matter how you cook it, the

and other vitamins. It is also good

unique taste and flavor won’t

for when you’re on a diet.

be lost. In the Jeolla-do area,

galbijjim to elders.

fermented skate is eaten with

Samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) ⓒKTO

190 | Korean Street Food | 191

Other people might be tempted to explore more eventful attractions but my preferred touchstone of a country’s culture is its food. And not just the cuisine found in uptown restaurants. It is the street food that so elaborately and without a shred of hypocritical pretence introduces a country to the rest of the world. Not for me the expensive eateries,

I tried mandu, eomuk, gimbap, and… dak kkochi at a pojangmacha,

and now I can’t forget the taste!

Assortment of pojang macha foods ⓒKTO

Fouz Khalid Khan Fouz Khalid Khan is a civil servant and is presently posted as Deputy Director of Intelligence & Investigation in the Federal Board of Revenue, Government of Pakistan. He holds degrees in electrical engineering, public administration and tax management and has 12 years of experience in various public sector posts.

He joined the KDI School of Public Policy & Management in 2011 for a Masters Program in Public Policy and immediately fell in love with Korea. His hobbies of having gastronomic adventures and photography were more than satiated during his year long stay. He ate all the exotic foods he could including the famous sannakji (live octopus) and snapped pictures all around Korea, some of which were also published online.

He hopes to see more of the country and its wonderful people in future.

replete with hyped up ambience and a show of food bordering on the fake; and although I have had my share of the bibimbap (rice served with red pepper sauce and assorted vegetable in a black stone pot topped with egg) and my bulgogi (thinly sliced marinated beef grilled on the table) along with numerous side dishes, if I want to taste the real food I will go right where it is simple, natural and easily accessible. That is to say, food prepared by ordinary folks like you and me on the streets.

I arrived in Seoul on a cold, cold night shivering both from excitement of being in a new city and its freezing weather. It was a day before the lunar year holidays began and Korea seemed to be wrapping up to go on a three day break. So how was a famished Pakistani student supposed to fill up without even knowing survival Korean? Naturally, it all gravitated to street food. Armed with a Korean phrase book in my hand and a song in my heart, I went on rampage in the neighborhoods in Dongdaemungu. Sidewalk carts, all warmly wrapped up and managed by polite and cheerful ladies and scrumptious looking food welcomed me.

It was a sight to watch the nicely laden and hygienic carts displaying their colourful fare. I could recognize some of the thing like eomuk (fish cake on a stick) and soft dumplings. A delicious fish broth, known as eomuk gungmul, was aplenty and I later learnt that it was customary for one to drink it after having a snack.There were rice cakes, collectively known as gimbap, wrapped up in seaweed and filled with various ingredients. I could taste boiled eggs, shrimps and long green chillies fried in batter along with a heavenly red pepper sauce; my favorites among the plenty of varied and wonderful street food, however, remain the goguma, sweet potatoes fried in batter; gamja, which is fried potato cubes with bread crumbs and dak kkochi, or scrumptious chicken cubes on a stick served with a variety of sauces.

If you think Korean street food is all about snacks with spicy condiments, you are dead wrong. Some of the most delicious pancakes, or hotteok, I have eaten are sold right on the kerb in Seoul. They are filled with honey, cinnamon, peanuts and brown sugar and are rich and very satisfying. And

192 193

though you cannot escape The Paris Baguette anywhere in Seoul, yet the hangwa, or traditional Korean confectionary, is a lot tastier than the usual bakery fare. Made with grain flour, fruits, sweet potatoes, honey and edible roots it is a savoury treat, at once tender and not too overly sweet.

And what of the beverages? Well, you need not worry about it because although Koreans love their coffee (Seoul is undoubtedly the coffee capital of the world with a coffee house around virtually every street corner), they still have their traditional cha, or tea; sikhye, or sweet rice drink; and hwachae, or fruit punch along with alcoholic ones like soju and yakju, which are made from rice. However, what I was really dying to taste was the famous Ginseng tea. Made with the roots of Ginseng, a herb found in the mountainous regions of the country which remains one of its most famed exports, Ginseng tea made from a proper 6 year old root is known to have medicinal and invigorating properties. It is an acquired taste though and may not be suitable for everyone. Perhaps less adventurous souls might prefer saenggang cha, which is made from sliced ginger roots and is excellent in winter months; or gukhwa cha, which is made from chrysanthemum flowers preserved in honey for a month.

For food adventurers, Korea is a real treat. We have all seen YouTube videos of guys choking on live baby octopus, called sannakji; or people singing praises of the notoriously aphrodisiacal bosintang, or dog soup. But what can only be experienced inside Korea (and nowhere else) is not just the authentic flavor but the ambience of the food that the country is famous for.

Not until you have had a bowl of tteokguk, the famous rice cake soup known to cure hangovers or tasted kimchi, (the national dish made from spicy vegetables fermented over time and eaten with almost everything and every time of the day) can you understand the rich, vibrant and colourful mix that is Korean cuisine. Since my arrival in Seoul, I have yet to eat something that does not fully agree with my palette; the texture, smell and the taste is different, to be sure - but once you develop a knack for it, Korean food can be one of the most delectable stuff you have ever eaten. No wonder Korean language does not seem to have an equivalent of the formal Bon appetite: with food that tastes this good, perhaps they don’t need to! (Published Apri 22th, 2011)

Look Inside!

Food Alleys in Downtown Seoul The variety of street food in Korea is endless. There’s bound to be something to suit your palate, and the price is what’s most attractive. In streets and alleys where there are a lot of people, you are sure to find a food cart. Here I introduce the most tasty and most crowded food alleys in Seoul.

Twigim (fritters), mandu (Korean dumplings), topokki (spicy rice cake) ⓒKTO

Pojang macha (food cart) ⓒKTO

Insa-dong Insa-dong is a must-visit area

alleys. Topokki (spicy rice cakes),

university areas are the most

among foreigners. Lined with

twigim (fritters), sundae (Korean

diverse food alleys in Seoul.

hanjeongsik (Korean full course

blood sausage), eomuk (fish cake)

Japanese takoyaki, French crepes

meal) and traditional tea houses,

and mandu (dumplings) are just

and Turkish kebabs, there is a little

Insa-dong also has a wide variety

a few snacks that lure tourists.

bit of the world in these university

of street food. Especially popular

Two treats that you shouldn’t miss

streets. Roasted sweet potatoes

among tourists is the kkultarae

in Myeong-dong are the 34-cm-

and chestnuts are always sold

cart. Crowds of people gather

long soft ice cream cone, and the

together and are a must during

around these carts to see how

spiraled potatoes.

the cold winter days. The Ewha

traditional string candy is made

Womans University, Sungshin

from honey malt. While in Korea,

Gwangjang Market

Women’s University areas are

Reese Witherspoon had a bite of

Located near Dongdaemun Market,

especially popular for their wide

sugar and peanut-filled pancakes

Gwangjang Market is a haven

array of street foods.

made of corn flour and fell in love

of traditional snacks. From the

with them. No matter how long

filing seafood pancakes and thick

the lines are, don’t make sure you

mungbean pancakes, to sundae,

try both of these treats.

topokki and gimbap, there is just too much to eat here. If there is a little

Myeong-dong

room left for desert, try the spicy

Often dubbed the “shopping

noodles, made on the spot.

mecca,” the main shopping street of Myeong-dong is lined with

University Areas

food carts all the way to the back

Fl o o d e d b y s t u d e n t s , t h e s e

194 | Native Foods of Korea | 195

I was able to see Korea like I had never seen it before during May when I traveled there with a production crew to host an upcoming PBS television show. While my previous trips centered on visiting my family and polishing my karaoke room routine, this most recent trip gave me the opportunity to understand and approach my home and my culture

Devotion beyond your imagination, I was humbled by seeing how gochujang is made

Making gochujang (Korean chili paste) ⓒMarja Vongerichten

Marja Vongerichten Born 1976 in Korea. Born from a Korean woman and an American soldier, she was adopted by a family in Virginia when she was 3 years old. While working as a model and actress in New York, she met her biological mother, and since then visited Korea a number of times to learn about her roots. She is also known as the wife of Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, French chef who owns more than 20 restaurants around the world including the 3-star Michelin-rated New York restaurant. The couple visited Korea in 2010 for about a month for the production of their documentary, “Kimchi Chronicles.”

with new information, access and authenticity. People opened their restaurants and homes for us, they showed us around their local markets and explained their signature ingredients, they brought us into their fields and factories, into their families and their hearts.

Among the highlights of our trip was meeting Lee Sook-hee at her restaurant Doorae. On my first visit, Sook-hee taught me how to make homemade gochujang, a labor of love involving techniques I didn’t expect.

It was enlightening to learn the steps behind what is perhaps the most significant ingredient in Korean cuisine and also slightly humbling—after seeing all the work that goes into making it, I can never take gochujang for granted. After this lesson, Sook-hee invited me to have lunch with her. Her food was, quite simply, stunning. Old school, but with such a light touch and distinctive, unmuted flavors. The meal ended with Sookhee singing traditional Korean music unaccompanied and with great confidence and emotion. It literally left me in tears. The experience was soulful and connected, fully realized. I thought immediately that this is where I would bring my husband, Jean Georges, when he arrived to Korea with our daughter Chloe. I took them, practically straight from the airport, to Doorae. Jean Georges was equally blown away, so appreciative of Sook-hee’s talent and grace. He instantly recognized her as an extraordinary embodiment of Korean cuisine and culture.

Jean Georges was also very engaged by his trip with the haenyeos in Jejudo Island. He was stripped down and dressed in a wetsuit, a face mask to seal the deal. He dove with the women, admiring their ability, skill and lively sense of humor. I couldn’t help but be a little jealous when hearing about how they all ate sea urchin straight from the ocean. Being able to consume ingredients at their source is a bit of an ultimate for chefs, the closest connection you can have with food.

196 197

We shared a similar experience when we visited the Amore Pacific green tea gardens, also in Jejudo Island, and were able to witness the entire process from the soil to the teacup. We learned how each type of tea is grown, harvested, roasted and packaged and how the ingredients are used to their full potential in the brand’s cosmetics that I continually swear by.

Seeing the care invested in each step was extraordinary; for example, the expert tea pickers do not ever wash their hands with harsh soap in order to ensure the delicacy and subtleties of each leaf.

Look Inside!

Varieties of Kimchi and its History Kimchi is always present on a Korean meal. It was originally made to preserve vegetables for longer periods of time. From field vegetables, to wild mountain greens and edible plants, anything can an ingredient for kimchi.

Whole cabbage kimchi, radish kimchi, young radish kimchi, etc. kimchi comes in a great variety of flavors and ingredients.

Perhaps the most meaningful morning I spent during this trip was on the beach in Sokcho-si cooking and eating with my Korean family.

Joined by my grandmother, two aunts and cousins, we prepared and ate soup made with local crabs, grilled squid and pork belly and vegetables, and, of course, kimchi (some of the best we had and I’m not just saying that because my aunt made it). The meal, however, went way beyond the food. It was about being with family, about being in the place where you come from and feeling welcome and part of something bigger than yourself. Families not only define cultures, they transcend them—we are all connected to our homes and origins, wherever they are and however we define them.

This trip was intensely meaningful for me. It effectively opened my eyes to the traditions, ideas and customs that define Korean cuisine and life. I ate old dishes and better understood their origins. I ate new dishes that redefined the potential of Korean cuisine. I was with my family and I met new people and I spoke with them and listened to their stories. I felt increasingly aware, informed and touched by a culture that I am so privileged and delighted to call my own. (Published June 24th, 2011)

History of Kimchi Kimchi is fermented food. The history of

stuffed cucumber kimchi in summer; cubed

kimchi goes back to ancient times. Until the

radish kimchi, soy sauce kimchi and leaf mustard

18th century, when Korean chili powder was

kimchi are autumn kimchi; and in early winter,

introduced in Korea, kimchi was made by

most families in Korea make gimjang, making

pickling cucumber, garlic, chives and other

kimchi to last the whole winter.

vegetables in salt water. Although chili was brought into Korea in the late 16th century, it

Gimjang

took over 150 years for it to be used in kimchi.

Gimjang is an annual event to prepare for

It became popular through the 1988 Seoul

winter. Since vegetables don’t grow in the

Olympic Games, and in 2001 it was officially

cold winter, enough kimchi to last through the

declared an “International Food” by Codex

winter is made in around November. During

Alimentarius Commission.

gimjang season, the entire family helps salt and rinse tens, sometimes hundreds heads

Varieties of Kimchi

of cabbage. The cabbage is soaked in salted

There are over 200 different types of kimchi in

water, then rinsed, and then seasoned with

Korea. The taste of kimchi differs by region. The

chili powder and other ingredients.

colder northern regions prefer baek-kimchi, which uses less chili powder, the warmer southern regions prefer spicier and saltier kimchi. The varieties of kimchi also differ by season: bomdong kimchi, cubed cucumber kimchi and water kimchi in spring; lettuce kimchi, chive kimchi, radish kimchi, and

Altari radish kimchi, green onion kimchi, nabak kimchi (from left) ⓒKTO

198 | Tour of Traditional Markets | 199

It was October 1st in 2008 when I opened a restaurant with my name on the 35th floor in the new annex of Lotte Hotel Seoul located at Sogongdong and has been three years since I settled down in Korea. Although it was a short period, the first landing of Michelin three-star restaurant to Korea drew much attention from many people. Meanwhile I had

There’s nothing that Moran Market doesn’t have, and here I felt the warmth of Korea

difficulty at the beginning because of prejudice that ‘French cuisine is a high class and expensive dish’. As I came to be more knowledgeable about Korean food ingredients and understand Korean food culture better, I kept increasing Korean food ingredients and introducing new courses. As a result of diverse trials, I have successfully settled down in Korea.

From 2006 when I visited Korea for the first time, I have annually conducted Market research two or three times about big conventional Markets such as Garak-dong Agricultural & Marine Products Market, Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market, Gyeongdong Yangnyeong Market, Gwangjang Market in Seoul and Seongnam Moran Market in Gyeonggi-do. Garak-dong and Noryangjin Markets did not appeal to me much because these well-known food ingredients markets representing Seoul were similar to large markets in France, but ‘Seongnam Moran Market’ which is an hour away from Seoul was different. Everything and anything was sold in a widely spread out open Seongnam Moran Market.

Looking through Korean ingredients at a traditional market ⓒPierre Gagnaire

Pierre Gagnaire Born 1950 in France, Pierre Gagnaire became a chef at the young age of 18. In 1998 Pierre Gagnaire Paris became a 3-star Michelin-rated restaurant, and has since maintained its 3-star rating. He has opened restaurants in London, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Dubai, Las Vegas, Moscow and Seoul. In a survey The French daily magazine “Le Figaro” conducted a survey rating 3-star rated Michelin chefs, and Gagnaire was voted as the best chef. 2008 Pierre Gagnaire Seoul opened on the 35th floor of Lotte Hotel Seoul.

At the market entrance, street vendors selling flowers, plant pots, grains and herbs were mingling together. It was very rare to see such things in evenly arranged large markets like Noryangjin and Garak-dong Markets in downtown Seoul. I was able to peep into healthy cooking styles of Koreans who enjoy various grains with rice, taking a look at a variety of grains such as adlay, mung beans, Indian millets, peas, black soybeans. Also, I could see herb vendors explaining loudly the effect of the herbs such as Cordyceps militaris, cinnamon, schizandra berries, etc. Many people including myself gathered surrounding those shouting vendors and their diverse herbs whose smell made me feel healthy. I learned ‘health’ is in the center of the Korean food culture.

Deep in the market there were many covered wagons selling fish, meat and noodles with drinks. Even during daytime I could see Korean

200 201

middle-aged men and women in small groups of threes to fives drinking makgeolli and soju with boiled meat, Korean-style black pudding and pan-fried food. Inside the market, we (me and my fellow chefs working in Seoul Pierre Gagnaire) were the only foreigners with different hair colors and could get a piece of food tasters whenever we were passing by

the food added beauty and form while preserving its original taste. It upgraded the food by contemporary interpretation of colors, shapes and placement as well as taste and health. Interior design of the restaurant was distinct too. Conventional restaurants I have visited always maintained a traditional Korean-style house but ‘Poom’ was divided into a hall

those wagons. I cannot forget those kind vendors explaining with gesture to me when I enquired about taste and ingredients of food: A thick and crispy mung bean pancake, a perilla leaf pancake filled with seasoned pork meat and vegetables, a sweet and cold iced rice wine (makgeolli), a sweet rice drink (sikhye), Korean pancake (hotteok).

and individual rooms with a whole window looking down Namsan Mountain with a clear view. I was impressed with the neat, modern and open style of its kitchen. Chefs’ cooking could be viewed through the open kitchen, and I still remember those young chefs’ passionate and pleasant attitude toward cooking.

Another unforgettable thing to remember was to witness selling edible dogs. In France I had read an article about Koreans who enjoy dog meat because it is good for stamina but it was shocking to see live dogs being sold and cooked in reality. Whatever life forms are, killing life is irritating and disgusting. I have never tasted the dog meat but I think there is no difference from Koreans eating ‘edible dogs’ to French enjoying horse meat, English eating frogs and Chinese eating monkey brains.

Later I was able to see another aspect of Korean food through demonstration of royal court food at Gyeonghuigung Palace the following year. In France, there is no Cuisine Royale. Korean Cuisine

In Seongnam Moran Market everything was there - all different kinds of grains, herbs, flowers, flower pots, seeds, seafoods, vegetables, diverse street food, liquor, antiques, pets, edible dogs…… Looking around here and there, I could learn diversity of Korean food ingredients and feel comfortably warm and deeply affectionate culture unique to Koreans, walking in the market, having pigskin, fried small intestine, Korean popcorn, fermented skates, mung bean pancake, rice wine, etc.

As I said earlier, Korean food is excellent in terms of its nutritional values and tastes but I have never felt its style and expression are elegant and delicate. It is just healthy and warm-heatrted comfortable food. Compared to a person, it is the food like ‘Ajeossi-avuncular (in Korean expression)’ who offers extra food than the price in the Korean street markets?

However, the Korean food that I tasted in a Korean restaurant called ‘Poom’ was good enough to break the stereotypical image of the Korean food I had before. I felt like eating a French course meal because

Restaurant kitchen ⓒPierre Gagnaire

202 203

Royale broke stereotypes I had about Korean food, which I considered being clumsy and lacking delicacy, with its flower-shaped dried persimmons served as a dessert as well as each course. I think Korean food can be more competitive than Japanese sushi or Italian pizza known throughout the world if conventional dishes representing beauty can be reformed in a modern style.

Look Inside!

Korea’s 5-day market, a cheerful market open every 5 days

Especially, kimchi seems to be a simple food but it is a very refined and fermented well-being food which is in harmony with all different factors. Its taste, scent and flavor are different depending on maturity. I am confident that it is one of the most competitive Korean foods in the world market. For example, Pierre Gagnaire style of cabbage kimchi, which is salted cabbages fermented with lemon skins, red pepper powder and balsamic vinegar, is sliced and served with Foie gras. I introduced this dish in the restaurants in France and Japan as well as in Korea and I had a very good and positive feedback from customers. I think that food ingredients, which are produced only in Korea or well known as the best when they are produced in Korea, can be the most powerful weapon promoting Korean food – not only kimchi but also doenjang, makgeolli, soju, perilla leaves, schizandra berries, ginseng and sesame oil. Isn’t it the globalization of Korean food if various Korean food ingredients and conventional fermented sauces can be reborn as a new dish, harmonized

Although large discount stores have decreased the number of traditional 5-day markets, there are still many 5-day

with a French recipe and the new dish can attract foreigners? th

(Published September 16 , 2011)

markets open. Although many traditional 5-day markets have closed down due to incoming discount stores and department stores, traditional markets can still be found in the regional areas. These 5-day markets open every 5 days, and there are still 657 left in Korea. People who have been to these markets know the feeling of having to wait another 5 days for it to re-open. Loud and full of energy, there’s nothing these markets don’t have.

Moran 5-day Market

Jeongseon 5-day Market

Bukpyeong 5-day Market

This is largest 5-day market in

I t is a representative folk 5-

The Bukpyeong 5-day Market

Korea. An average of 100,000

day market. Opened in 1966,

is famous for seafood caught in

people visits the market when it’s

Jeongseon Market sells fresh

the East Sea, and fresh mountain

open. The number of merchants

mountain greens from the

gre e n s f ro m t h e fo o t o f t h e

alone exceeds 1,500. First opened

mountains and valleys of the

Baekdudaegan Mountain Range.

in 1962, Moran Market has lots

Gangwon-do. This market has

The fish stores inside the market

to see. From traditional dance

many convenient facilities for

are especially popular. Cod,

and singing performances to folk

to u r i s t s, i t a l s o h a s c u l t u ra l

pollack, croaker, squid, flatfish,

games, and of course shopping,

commentators ready to help, and

ray and other fish are hung from

Moran has it all. Medicinal herbs

in the center of the market, the

the ceiling Bukpyeong market

from around the country, fresh

Jeongseon Arirang performance

is geared for locals rather than

fruits, and much, much more lure

and various food experiences

tourists, which is why there aren’t

shoppers and tourists. It is open

keep tourists and visitors

any performances ir shows. But

on the 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th, 24th,

enter tained. Foods you must

you won’t be able to forget the

and 29th day of the month.

try here are seasoned gondeure

warmth and affec tion of the

Address 4190 Seongnam-dong, Jungwon-

bab rice, kotdeungchigi guksu

Korean people. It opens on the

gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do

noodles, olchaengi guksu noodles,

3rd, 8th, 13th, 18th, 23rd and 28th

buckwheat pancakes, and other

of the month.

traditional foods of the province.

Address 486-2 Bukpyeong-si, Donghae-

It opens on the 2nd, 7th, 12th,

si, Gangwon-do

17th, 22nd and 27th day of the month.

Address 344-1 Bongyang-ri, Jeongseoneup, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-do

204 | Food Culture of Andong-si | 205

Spicy jjimdak for Lunch, Healthy heotjesabap for Dinner.

Fine dining from morning till night

Not so long ago, I became a member of the board of directors of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch, a community where Korean natives and foreigners living in Korea come together to study and inform others on Korea’s appeal. About 1,000 members attend weekly lectures or go on field trips every other week to get to know Korea better. The lectures and excursions mainly focus on Korea’s history, philosophy, culture or art; out of all of these topics, I concentrate on the diffusion of Korean culture through traditional Korean foods. I hold lectures under the theme “Korea’s food” and let others know about the many appeals of Korea by leading excursions on Korean food.

I strongly believe that treating foreigners or outsiders with local ethnic food allows the outsiders to encounter that country’s history, economy, and ethnic identity. This in turn leads them to experience the country’s culture in entirely. This is the reason why I decided to treat the RASKB members to Andong-si’s local unique food instead of introducing them to the architectural aspects of the city, or other intangible cultural assets, such as Andong Hahoe Village or Maskdance Performance.

On October 1-2nd, the Royal Asiatic Society, Korea Branch (RASKB) led an excursion to Andong-si in Gyeongsangbuk-do. The point of the excursion was not only to experience the renowned Andong International Maskdance Festival, but also to gain greater insight into the area’s unique architectural, cultural, and culinary background.

The excursion was led by Jennifer Flinn, who appeared in the American TV series the Kimchi Chronicles and runs a food blog, with

Heotjesabap (Andong style bibimbap) ⓒKTO

Jennifer Flinn Born 1980 in the U.S. She became interested in Korea while working as an English teacher in Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do in 1999. She returned to Korea after studying Korean Literature at UCLA, and started her own blog about Korean cuisine named Fatman Seoul (fatmanseoul.com). She is a member of the board of directors at the Royal Asiatic Society-Korea Branch, while going on field trips around the country with over 1000 bloggers. As of 2012, she is an assistant teacher at the Kyung Hee University for Teaching and Learning.

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At a Andong Jjimdak restaurant with members of the Royal Asiatic Society-Korea Branch ⓒJennifer Flinn

assistance from Pablo Barrera, a Fulbright scholar and researcher on the connections between architecture and art and culture. They were accompanied by Brother Anthony, the well-known translator and president of the RASKB, German Ambassador to Korea Hans-Ulrich Seidt and his wife. The other attendees included long-term residents of Korea and visitors spending only a few days in the country.

The excursion group arrived in Andong-si and headed directly to Andong Market’s famed “Chicken Alley” to try the city’s jjimdak. The dish consists of chicken, dangmyeon, potatoes, onions and other vegetables cooked in a unique soy-based sauce. Unlike many Korean dishes that rely heavily on powdered peppers or pepper paste in order to add flavor and spice, Andong jjimdak uses fresh or dried peppers, which give the rich-tasting sauce an extra kick. Although the exact origins of the dish are a bit of a mystery, with some attributing its development to local yangban, the first restaurants only appeared in the area about 30 years ago.

Local restaurateurs adopted the dish into a way to successfully compete with the rise of fried chicken franchises, and are mostly clustered along a single street inside the market. A few years ago, Andong jjimdak became a bit of a trend, resulting in several franchises opening up around the country. None, however, can really match the depth of the sweet and spicy originals. The group dined in a converted hanok, and washed down the meal with a few bottles of local Makgeolli.

Following lunch, the group toured a number of historic and cultural sites in downtown Andong-si, led by Mr. Barrera. They first visited the Taesamyo Shrine, a Goryeo Dynasty shrine that includes a juxtaposition of Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty architecture, followed by a quick walk to see a shaman tree shrine that was also the object of rites conducted

by Andong-si’s Confucian elites, showing the syncretic tendencies of Korean religious practice. They also spent time exploring Imcheonggak Shrine, an exemplary Joseon Dynasty residential building, and a rare 7 storey Silla Dynasty brick pagoda. Afterwards they traveled by bus to the Byeongsanseowon Confucian Academy to appreciate the beautiful natural setting, architecture, and its connections to local Confucian culture.

Dinner was an opportunity to introduce a few more local culinary specialties, including salted mackerel and heotjesabap. Heotjesabap was first served, according to legend, when a young man arrived home too late for the family’s ancestral rites, but asked to be served the same meal as required for those rites. In response, the family cooked up a meal of rice, vegetables and meat for a bibimbap flavored with soy sauce and sesame oil, but not the conventional pepper paste, and accompanied by fried foods.

View of Hahoe Village ⓒSon Min-ho

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Whether the story is true or not, heotjesabap remains one of Andongsi’s most distinctive and popular local specialties. Salted mackerel is a similarly uniquely Andong-si dish, and results from the city’s geographic location at the highest navigable point by boat on the Nakdonggang River. Mackerel is an oily fish that spoils quickly, and before the advent of modern refrigeration, salting was one of the best ways to preserve the fish. Salt fish are found in cultures all over the world, and are particularly popular in parts of northern Europe. However, European-style salt fish are usually soaked in milk or water to remove the saltiness before cooking and eating, but in Andong-si, the distinctive salt tang became its most cherished characteristic. While it can also be used in soups and stews, the RASKB group enjoyed theirs grilled, which highlights the flavor of the salt and the fish’s natural oils. Some members also used the dinner hour to purchase one of Andong-si’s more potent potables, a traditional distilled soju with a strong alcoholic punch and distinctive sour flavor.

The highlight of the evening was a chance to see the Seonyujulbulnori, a tremendously beautiful and fascinating “fireworks” display that originated in Andong Hahoe Village. After enjoying the traditional fireworks, the group retired for the evening in a restored hanok.

After breakfast at a local minbak the next morning, Mr. Barrera led the group through the village, pointing out important architectural elements and connecting them with cultural elements, explaining how philosophical, religious, and personal beliefs manifested themselves physically in the buildings of the village. The group then proceeded to the main festival ground in downtown Andong-si, where they were able to visit a display of local foods, several mask dances, and a shaman gut before returning to Seoul.

Since the RASKB members are used to typical Korean foods in Seoul, they were able to learn that there is much more to Korean food, other than being salty or spicy. There are many more places in Korea other than Andong-si that include local cultural and historical characteristics in their local foods. In order to help more foreigners and outsiders to experience Korean foods and learn more about the appeals of Korea, the Royal Asiatic Society of Korea will continue with its efforts to spread the Korean culture through experiences with Korean food. (Published December 23th, 2011)

Look Inside!

Folk Villages of Korea There are many folk villages in Korea that preserve its traditions. There are 7 folk villages in the country. Like the UNESCO designated villages of Hahoe and Yangdong, most folk villages were single clan villages of noblemen, but Naganeupseong Folk Village, was a village of commoners.

Hahoe Village

Naganeupseong Folk Village

An exemplary folk village of Korea, Queen Elizabeth

This is a fortress village that best preserves the folk

II, who had visited the village years back, said it was

atmosphere as well as the 1,410-m-long fortress

the most traditional side of Korea she had seen. As

wall. Established in 1397, this was a village where the

the lineage village of the Pungsan Ryu family, it still

common people, middle-class, lower-class, farmers,

preserves its traditions and customs, which is why it

blacksmiths, etc. lived, which is why there isn’t a

was registered on UNESCO’s World Heritage list last

single tile-roof house. All the straw-roof houses of

year. Over 800,000 tourists visit the village annually,

the Naganeupseong harmonize without a single

and people can also experience the life of the upper-

one standing out. The stone-piled fortress wall, the

class society.

deodeok root liquor, and the gayageum (12-stringed

Address Hahoe-ri, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si, Gyeongsang

Korean zither) orchestra are proof that the old

buk-do Web hahoe.or.kr

village was famous for stones, songs, and liquor. On

Yangdong Village As a noblemen’s village located in the northern area of Gyeongju, this is the lineage village of the Wolseong Son family and the Yeogang Lee family. About 150 houses remain to this day, and 54 houses are over 200 years old. Yangdong is the largest folk village in Korea, and it was also registered on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. The houses in this village were arranged along the ridges of a mountain, creating stair-like view. From far away the village doesn’t look so big, but as you get closer, you get to see how large it is. If you want to experience life in the village, rooms are available.

Address Yangdong-ri, Gangdong-myeon, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do Web yangdong.invil.org

weekends, a Korean classical music class is held in the straw-roof houses, and various other experience programs are also offered.

Address Namnae-ri, Nagan-myeon, Suncheon-si, Jeollanamdo Web nagan.or.kr

16 Regional Areas of Korea Must-see Routes mustseeroutes.or.kr

In memory of the “Visit Korea Year,” we have the following “Must-see Routes.” These routes include each region’s most traditional and unique charm. Categorized into 16 different regions and 10 themes, these exceptional “Must-see Routes” offer the best a new and different side of Korea.

Seoul Incheon

Gangwon-do Gyeonggi-do

Chungcheongbuk-do Chungcheongnam-do Daejeon

Gyeongsangbuk-do Daegu

Jeollabuk-do Gyeongsangnam-do Gwangju

Ulsan Busan

Jeollanam-do

Jeju Special Self-Governing Province (Jejudo Island) Buyeo, Gungnamji Pond ⓒShin Byeong-mun

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01. Seoul

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Seoul The Beating Hear of Korea

According CNNgo.com, in Seoul “sleeping is for losers.”

Which means there is so much to do and see in Seoul at night. During the time, Seoul is fast and furious

Routes 1 15 Minutes

10 Minutes

Bukchon Hanok Village

Gahoe Museum

commercial area, but at night, the 24-hour opening cafes,

18 Minutes

Dongdaemun Shopping District

20 Minutes

Leeum, Samsung Hangang Museum of Art Riverboat

shopping malls, theaters, singing rooms, saunas clubs, etc. make your stay in Seoul unforgettable. From dusk till dawn, Seoul is up and lively! It is the hottest city on earth.

Routes 2 10 Minutes

Seolleung

10 Minutes

Apgujeong-dong Rodeo Street, Cheongdam-dong Luxury Street

Bukchon Hanok Village 600-year-old hanok (traditional house) village where aristocrats of the Joseon Dynasty used to live.

Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil Road ⓒKTO

Gahoe Museum ⓒKTO

Gahoe Museum Visitors can experience folk and traditional cultures of Korea such as folk paintings and talismans.

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art ⓒvisitseoul.net

Dosan Park

Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil Road

Seolleung Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage, it is the royal tomb of Joseon Dynasty’s 9th king, King Seongjong.

Apgujeong-dong Rodeo Street & Cheongdam-dong Luxury Street Area clustered with designer brands and high-end shops.

Dongdaemun Shopping District Open 24 hours, this shopping district has a wide selection of clothing, footwears, bags, accessories and more.

Dosan Park Name brand shops and hair & beauty shops line the streets around the park.

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art Museum designed by worldfamous architects Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas.

Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil Road Boutigues of up-and-coming designers, restaurants and cafe line Garosu-gil Road.

Hangang Riverboat Hangang River flows across the middle of downtown Seoul.

Banpodaegyo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain ⓒKTO

5 Minutes

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02. Busan

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Busan A Port City Full of Life and Energy

Routes 1

Haeundae and Gwangalli. Just by hearing these two

15 Minutes

words, people will automatically think of a romantic

Dalmaji-gil

beachside evening. People enjoying a stroll on the beach,

15 Minutes

15 Minutes

Busan Aquarium

Haeundae Beach

Busan Centum City

people jogging, couples on dates, or friends out partying, the beaches of Busan are always filled with people

Routes 2

creating special memories. The downtown area is also

15 Minutes

always energetic and lively. Although loud and hectic, at the traditional markets, you can hear and feel the

25 Minutes

10 Minutes

Gamcheon-dong Gukje Market Culture Village

Jagalchi Market

Taejongdae (Cruise Tour)

Dalmaji-gil Hill lined with galleries and art shop, and nice restaurants.

Jagalchi Market Open from dusk till dawn, it is the largest fisheries market in Korea.

Busan Aquarium Ocean-themed aquarium with a total area of 30,000,000 m2.

Taejongdae 250-m-long coastal landform consisting of cliffs and unique rock formations.

affection of the people of Busan.

Gamcheon-dong Culture Village ⓒKTO

Haeundae Beach Beautiful beach, yacht marina, luxury hotels, shopping mall, etc.

Busan Centum City Largest mall in the world with a spa, skating rink, movie theaters, and more.

Busan Centum City ⓒBusan Centum City

Gamcheon-dong Culture Village Famous for murals drawn by your artists.

Haeundae Beach ⓒKTO

Jagalchi Market ⓒKTO

Gukje Market Busan’s largest traditional market, is a must-visit amongst the “fashion people”.

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03. Daegu

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Route 20 Minutes

Daegu

Herb Hills

Fashion & Hair, City of Healthy Living

15 Minutes

5 Minutes

Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Culture Center

Jin Alley(Modern Architecture Street)

Anjirang Market

Herb Hills Herb theme park offering various herb related attractions and programs.

Jin Alley (Modern Architecture Street) Street portraying Korea’s modern architecture.

Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Culture Center Oldest Oriental herbs market in Korea guaranteeing the best herbs in the country.

Anjirang Market Cluster of spicy, Daegu-style beef tripe restaurants.

Daegu is a transportation hub that connects Seoul to southern regions of Korea. It is said that there are many pretty people in Daegu, and it is famous for apples, oriental medicine and well-being tours. This Confucian city is usually very calm and quiet, but through the IAAF World Championships

Jin Alley ⓒKTO

Daegu 2011, it let the whole world know what Daegu was all about. Daegu is a good stopover location when traveling from Seoul to the southern regions, and unlike other regional areas, Daegu is very hip and fashionable.

Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Culture Center ⓒKTO

Herb Hills ⓒHerb Hills

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04. Incheon

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Incheon City with 3 Histories and Cultures

Every city has a history and culture of its own, but Incheon’s long and proud history has many roots.

Home of the Incheon International Airport, Incheon is where ancient dolmens of the Bronze era and the

Routes 1 5 Minutes

40 Minutes

5 Minutes

Gwandong Chinatown Modern Architecture Street

Art Platform

35 Minutes

Songdo Central Park

Wolmido Riverboat

Chamseongdan Altar built in BC 2333 in Manisan Mountain can still be seen. This is also where western cultures were first accepted in the 19th century. Incheon embraces history and traditional while also striving for

Routes 2 10 Minutes

Goryeo Palace Site

15 Minutes

Ganghwa Anglican Church

the future.

Gwandong Modern Architec ture Street Centered on the first westernstyle park in Korea, this street is a collage of modern architecture.

50 Minutes

Ganghwa Dolmen Site (UNESCO World Heritage)

Manisan Mountain

Goryeo Palace Site After Mongolia invaded Korea in 1232, Goryeo moved its capital and palace here.

Ganghwa Anglican Church

Chinatown ⓒKTO

Chinatown With the opening of Incheonhang Port in 1883, Chinese people came to Korea and formed this town.

Art Platform Red brick warehouse was turned into a creative studio for arts and culture.

Gwandong Modern Architecture Street ⓒIncheon Metropolitan City

Incheondaegyo Bridge ⓒIncheon Bridge Co., Ltd.

Art Platform ⓒIncheon Metropolitan City

Songdo Central Park Beautiful park in Songdo, the international business district recently built in Incheon.

Wolmido Riverboat Starting at Wolmido, this ferry stops at Incheon Int’l Airport, Yeongjongdaegyo Bridge and other landmarks of Incheon.

This basilica was built in the 1900s using traditional Korean architecture.

Ganghwa Dolmen Site D o l m e n s o f t h e B ro n ze e ra (UNESCO World Heritage).

Manisan Mountain Home of Chamseongdan Altar, where Dangun, the progenitor and founder of a nation, held ritual services to the heavens.

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05. Gwangju

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Gwangju

Route 30 Minutes

Juknokwon Garden (Damyang-gun)

City of Art and Revolution Juknokwon Garden 160,000 m 2 bamboo garden. A 2.2-km hiking trail winds through 300-year-old bamboo trees.

40 Minutes

Soswaewon Garden (Damyang-gun)

Soswaewon Garden Private garden built in the 1520s; it demonstrates the features of a traditional Korean garden.

Uijae Museum of Korean Art

Uijae Museum of Korean Art Museum located at the entrance of Mudeungsan Mountain.

Commemorates and exhibits over 60 works of painter Heo Baekryeon (1891–1977; penname Uijae).

Gwangju is a city of art and literature.

You can see a great collection of worldfamous modern art at the Gwangju Biennale, held here every fall. A number of large and small exhibits are held throughout the city and the green forests of Mudeungsan Mountain decorate the center of the city. Gwangju is also the city or revolution and freedom. The April

May 18 Mangwol-dong Cemetery ⓒKTO

19th Democratic Revolution, and the May 18th Democratic Movement are very important historic events that took place in Gwangju. Recently, UNESCO added the “Documents on the pro-democracy uprising in Gwangju on May 18, 1980” on its Memory of the World list.

Uijae Museum of Korean Art ⓒUijae Art Museum

Juknokwon Garden ⓒKTO

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06. Daejeon

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Route 10 Minutes

Daejeon

Expo Science Park

City of Education, and Hot Springs

15 Minutes

45 Minutes

Currency Yuseong Museum of Korea Hot Springs

Expo Science Park Science theme park equipped with state-of-art technology to bring people closer to science.

Currency Museum of Korea Displays and exhibits currency of Korea and other countries as well.

Gyejoksan Mountain, Red Clay Trail

Yuseong Hot Springs Famous for being a favored resting area for kings of the Joseon Dynasty, and its prime location.

Gyejoksan Mountain, Red Clay Trail 200 to 300 above sea level, this 13-km-long walking trail is best when walked barefoot.

Home of KAIST (Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology), where Korea’s smartest students are, Daejeon is also a popular hot springs area. It is recorded that Joseon Dynasty’s first king, King Taejo spent a night at a hot spring in Daejeon. The hot springs area

Currency Museum of Korea ⓒKTO

in Yuseong is not very large, but has the longest history, and it located in the middle of the city.

And, as the city of education, Daejeon has many science and technology related museums, exhibition halls and parks.

Gyejoksan Mountain, Red Clay Trail ⓒDaedeok-gu District Office

Expo Science Park ⓒKTO

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07. Ulsan

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Route 15 Minutes

Ulsan

Bangudae Petroglyph Rock

Industrial City Where Whales Used to Live

30 Minutes

Cheonjeon-ri Petroglyphs

Bangudae Petroglyph Rock Cave painting on a 10 m wide and 3 m high rock surface.

Cheonjeon-ri Petroglyphs Rock ar t proving life in the Prehistoric Era and up to the Silla Dynasty.

1 Hour

Amethyst Cavern Park

Amethyst Cavern Park Man-made cave tourist area built in an amethyst cave from over 6,500 years ago.

40 Minutes

Jangsaengpo Whale Museum

Daewangam Park

Daewangam Park Park centered on Daewangam Rock Tomb, which is believed to be where the queen of King Munmu is buried.

Jangsaengpo Whale Museum Displays everything there is know about whales and Korea’s whale fishing history.

Ulsan houses Korea’s largest industrial complex. Rock carvings depicting the life and cultures of the Prehistoric and the Bronze eras can be found in this industrial city. Additionally, Korea’s largest whale fishing port, Jangsaengpo, and a 6,500-yearold amethyst cave offer many

Shipyard (Hyundai Heavy Industries) ⓒKTO

interesting sites. But above all, Ulsan is the home of the world’s No. 1 ship-building yard.

Jangsaengpo Whale Museum ⓒKTO

Daewangam Park ⓒKTO

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08. Gyeonggi-do

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Gyeonggi-do Closest Weekend Outing Destination from Seoul

Routes 1

Encircling the entire city of Seoul, Gyeonggi-do

10 Minutes

is where citizens of Seoul go to the most for a

Shinsegae Simon Premium Outlets

weekend getaway. Not only is it close to Seoul, but whichever way you go; north, south, east or

25 Minutes

Heyri Art Valley

30 Minutes

Imjingak The Botanical Pyeonghoa-Nuri Garden of BCJ

west, there is always something fun and exciting

Routes 2

to do. There are various cultural experience sites,

35 Minutes

amusement parks, UNESCO heritage sites, the DMZ,

Donggurong Royal Tomb (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

shopping outlets, resorts and much more. People can escape the hectic city life and enjoy the fresh

40 Minutes

Moran Museum of Art

15 Minutes

Semiwon Garden

Sujongsa Temple

outdoors.

Shinsegae Simon Premium Outlets Over 250,000 shoppers visited within 4 days of opening.

Heyri Art Valley O ve r 3 8 0 a r t i s t s, i n c l u d i n g painters, musicians, writers, etc., gather and created this artists’ village.

Imjingak Pyeonghoa-Nuri Built across from Imjingak Pavilion, which is a painful symbol of division.

Donggurong Royal Tomb ⓒKTO

The Botanical Garden of BCJ More than 1,400 species of plants and natural stones beautifully decorate the 120,000 m2 garden.

Shinsegae Simon Premium Outlets ⓒShinsegae Simon

Imjingak Pyeonghoa-Nuri ⓒKTO

Donggurong Royal Tombs Tomb complex consisting of 9 tombs of Joseon Dynasty royalty, including that of King Taejo (UNESCO World Heritage).

Moran Museum of Art Sculpture ar t museum amid beautiful natural surroundings.

Semiwon Garden Self-purifying garden with over 100 kinds of water lilies and a large lotus garden.

Sujongsa Temple Temple from the Joseon Dynasty located amid the 606-m-tall Ungilsan Mountain.

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09. Gangwon-do

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Gangwon-do A Gift from Mother Nature

Routes 1

If you see a beautiful and romantic outdoor scene in

2 Hours 30 Minutes

a Korean movie or drama, it was most likely filmed

Jade Garden

somewhere in Gangwon-do. From hills covered with

55 Minutes

Woljeongsa Temple

Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch

Alpensia Resort

beautiful spring flowers to sparkling summer seas, vibrant golds and reds of autumn, and white colored winters,

Routes 2

Gangwon-do has it all. 82% of the entire province is a

30 Minutes

mountainous region, and Pyeongchang-gun, has been

Sea Train

selected to host the 2018 Winter Olympic Games.

Jade Garden ⓒKTO

1 Hour 5 Minutes

Haslla Art World

Alpensia Resort ⓒKTO

Mureung Valley

Hwanseongul Cave

Haslla Art World Art park offering various exhibitions and performances throughout the year.

Woljeongsa Temple Houses the Seongbo Museum of Buddhist Art, and a fir tree walking trail.

Mureung Valley Beautiful valley said to be the resting area of Taoist hermits.

Alpensia Resort Ski resort scheduled to be the main stadium for the 2018 Winter Olympics.

Sea Train From Gangneung-si, to Donghaesi then Samcheok-si, this sea tea runs 58 km along the East Sea.

Sea Train ⓒKTO

55 Minutes

Jade Garden Arboretum designed with the concept of “Little Europe in the Forest”.

Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch Largest ranch in the Orient with healthy grasslands and herds of cows.

Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch ⓒKTO

35 Minutes

Hwanseongul Cave Largest limestone cave with unique rock formations and rare cave organism.

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10. Chungcheongbuk-do

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Chungcheongbuk-do

Routes 1 35 Minutes

Jecheon Medicinal Herb Market

A Lakeside City Surrounded

by Mountains

55 Minutes

Gosu Cave

35 Minutes

Jeongbangsa Temple

Chungjuho Lake

Routes 2 10 Minutes

Sangdang -sanseong Fortress

Situated in the center of the

30 Minutes

Cheongju National Museum

Jecheon Medicinal Herb Market One of the country’s top 3 medicinal herb market, it circulates fresh and healthy herbs gathered from the Taebaek Mountain Range.

peninsula, Chungcheongbukdo is surrounded by lakes and mountains. Chungjuho Lake is often dubbed the ocean of the mainland, and the ferry tour

Sangdangsanseong Fortress ⓒKTO

Gosu Cave Stunning limestone cave formed since the early Paleozoic era.

offers spectacular views of the Jeongbangsa Temple Located 1,016 m above sea level, its main shrine is surrounded by a rock face.

lake. Popular tourist attractions of this lakeside province include the millennial temple called Jeongbangsa, Baekje Dynasty’s

Chungjuho Lake Gosu Cave ⓒKTO

Sangdangsanseong Fortress, the Cheongnamdae Presidential Villa,

Large lake flowing 52 km from Chungju-si to Danyang-gun.

Sangdangsanseong Fortress Fortress wall running 4.2 km along the ridges of Sangdangsan Mountain(491 m).

and Korea’s only winery.

Chungjuho Lake ⓒKTO

Winery Tour ⓒKTO

1 Hour 25 Minutes

Cheongnamdae Presidential Villa

Winery Tour

Cheongju National Museum Designed by Kim Swoo-geun, one of Korea’s most praised architects.

Cheongnamdae Presidential Villa Built in 1983, it was the vacation villa for numerous presidents of Korea.

Winery Tour You can taste and sample wines produced in over 40 vineyards in Korea.

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11. Chungcheongnam-do

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Chungcheongnam-do

Routes 1 1 Hour 9 Minutes

Cheollipo Arboretum

Health Presented by the Western Sea

50 Minutes

Cheonsuman Bay

Boryeong Mud Skincare Center

Muchangpo Beach

Routes 2 35 Minutes

Baekje Cultural Land

To u c h i n g t h e Ye l l o w S e a , C hu n gcheongnam-do was always famous for its hot springs and wide areas of mud flats. A number of resorts are located along the beach so people can

Magoksa Temple ⓒKTO

rest and relax on beach and while also enjoying the goodness of

40 Minutes

Gongju National Museum

to Cheollipo Arboretum, the only arboretum in Asia to be designate Cheollipo Arboretum ⓒKTO

an Arboretum Distinguished for

where spectacular miracle of Cheonsuman Bay ⓒKTO

Boryeong Mud Festival ⓒKTO

Oeam Folk Village

Cheonsuman Bay Photographers from around the world camp out here to see flocks of Baikal teals.

Magoksa Temple Temple of the Silla Kingdom, it boasts exquisite temple a rc h i t e c t u re a n d e l a b o r a t e ornaments.

Muchangpo Beach 4 to 5 times a year, visitors can see the Moses’ Miracle.

Baekje Cultural Land Cultural complex in Buyeo, Baekje Kingdom’s last capital city.

the world; and Muchangpo Beach,

Magoksa Temple

Gongju National Museum Stores and exhibits over 16,000 cultural properties including 19 National Treasures and 3 Treasures.

Merit; Cheonsuman Bay, praised by photographers from around

55 Minutes

Cheollipo Arboretum Beginning with beautiful magnolias, plants and flowers collected from over 60 countries around the world are housed here.

Boryeong Mud Skincare Center Experience the amazing benefits of Boryeong mud.

nature. The province is also home

Moses’ can be seen.

20 Minutes

Oeam Folk Village Village of Joseon Dynasty nobles formed about 500 years ago.

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Jeollabuk-do

Routes 1 5 Minutes

Maisan Mountain

Taste and Style of Korea

Jinan Red Ginseng Spa

10 Minutes

Jeonju Hanok Village

Seosin-dong Makgeolli Town

Routes 2 30 Minutes

Chaeseokgang Cliffs

Foods including Jeonju bibimbap (rice topped with vegetables and meat) and Jeonju kongnamul gukbap (bean sprout soup with rice), Pungcheon jangeo (eel), Namwon chueotang (loach soup), and Jeonju

Jeonju Hanok Village ⓒKTO

makgeolli table, are enough to invite and keep tourists in Jeollabuk-do.

50 Minutes

Naesosa Temple

the province is Jeonju-si, home of Jeonju bibimbap, and Jeonju Hanok Village. Other popular attractions

Naesosa Temple ⓒKTO

in Jeonju-si are the mystical Maisan Mountain and Chaeseokgang Cliffs, Naesosa Temple and its fir tree lined trail, and the UNESCO designated Maisan Mountain ⓒKTO

Chaeseokgang Cliffs ⓒKTO

15 Minutes

Gochang Dolmen Site

Gochangeupseong Fortress

Maisan Mountain This mystical mountain is composed of two peaks shaped like horse ears.

Naesosa Temple Temple from the Baekje Kindom famous for the 600-m-long fir tree trail on the entrance.

Jinan Red Ginseng Spa Korean medicine facility that offers one-on-one consultations and various therapeutic treatments using red ginseng from Jinan-gun.

Gochang Dolmen Site UNESCO heritage site with Korea’s largest cluster of dolmens.

Jeonju Hanok Village O ver 700 traditional homes (hanok) are clustered in this traditional village.

The most representative city of

Gochang Dolmen Site.

45 Minutes

Seosin-dong Makgeolli Town Restaurants here only charge for makgeolli, and serve a tableful of delicious side dishes.

Chaeseokgang Cliffs Created from layers of 70 millionyear- old sedimentar y rocks stratified by the sea.

Gochangeupseong Fortress Korea’s best preserved fortress constructed in 1453.

236 |

16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes

|

13. Jeollanam-do

|

namdokorea.com

| 237

Routes 1

2 Hours 10 Minutes

1 Hour

Jeollanam-do

Islands dot the southern sea like the stars

Mokpo Gatbawi Cultural Town

in the sky. The Boseong green tea leafs carpet the fields like a velvet carpet. The

Landscape of the Southern Sea

Uhang-ri Dinosaur Museum

+

30 Minutes

Jindo Mysterious Sea Route

Jodo Islands (Dorisan Observatory)

Routes 2

radiant sun setting over the 5,000-year-

15 Minutes

old Suncheonman Bay. These are just a

Boseong Green Tea Fields

few natural attractions that can be seen in Jeollanam-do. Travelers can see the different

1 Hour 20 Minutes

40 Minutes

Yulpo Seawater Songgwangsa Green Tea Temple Bath

Naganeupseong Folk Village

Routes 3

colors of nature through the change of

1 Hour 5 Minutes

seasons.

Suncheonman Bay

Mokpo Gatbawi Cultural Town Cultural town that houses the National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage, the Mokpo Natural History Museum, the Mokpo Ceramic Living ware Museum, etc.

Uhang-ri Dinosaur Museum Only fossil site in the world where fossils of dinosaurs, pterosaurs, and footprints were discovered in a single stratum layer.

Jindo Mysterious Sea Route Famous as the site where Moses’ miracle can be seen.

Suncheonman Bay ⓒKTO

1 Hour

Jodo Islands (Dorisan Obser vatory) 154 islands dot the ocean like stepping stones in a pond.

40 Minutes

Odongdo Island

Boseong Green Tea Fields Home of Korean green tea, 40% of the country’s green tea is from the lush fields in Boseong-gun.

Yulpo Seawater Green Tea Bath Natural seawater pumped from 120 m bellow ground is made into a green tea bath.

Songgwangsa Temple Compo-sed of more than 80 wooden buildings, it became a “precious” temple for having produced many respectable monks.

Naganeupseong Folk Village Village planned dur ing the Joseon era, it still preserves its original appearance.

1 Hour 10 Minutes

Hyangiram Hermitage

Yeosu Industrial Complex Nightscape

Suncheonman Bay Mudflat for-med over a period of 5,000 years, it was voted as one of the top 10 beautiful sunsets amongst Korean photographers.

Odongdo Island Connec ted to Yeosu-si by a seawall road to the east, it has the largest group of camellia trees.

Hyangiram Hermitage No. 1 sunrise of the southern sea, it offers a magnificent view of the Dadohaehaesang National Park and lush camellia tree forest.

Yeosu Industrial Complex Nightscape Largest industrial complex in the Orient, it lights Yeosu-si 24-hours a day.

238 |

16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes

|

14. Gyeongsangbuk-do

|

gbtour.net

| 239

Routes 1 1 Hour 25 Minutes

Gyeongsangbuk-do

Gyeongsangbuk-do is where Andong-si,

Yeongdeok Jukdo Market Goesi-ri Traditional Village

praised by Queen Elizabeth II as the most traditional Korean village, and Gyeongju-

The Most Korean Place in Korea

35 Minutes

Oeosa Temple

Yangdong Folk Village

Routes 2

si, the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom

35 Minutes

where Buddhist flourished are located.

Gyeongju National Museum

Nowhere else in Korea will you see and experience more tradition, culture and

35 Minutes

Daereungwon Tomb Complex

35 Minutes

Conmaul Hospital of Oriental Medicine

Gyeongju Namsan Mountain Moonlight Tour

Routes 3

history of Korea. You can spend a night at a

20 Minutes

traditional residence and experience the lives

Byeongsan seowon Confucian Academy

of Korea’s ancestors.

Yeongdeok Goesi-ri Traditional Village Hometown of Confucian scholar from the Joseon Dynasty, Mogeun Lee Saek.

Jukdo Market Largest market on the east coast, a group of street venders formed this market in the 1950s.

Oeosa Temple Surrounded by a lake and unique rock formations, the 4 great Buddhist monks of the Silla Kingdom were from this temple.

Andong Hahoe Village ⓒKTO

35 Minutes

Yangdong Folk Village Houses of the village still preserve traditional layouts of over 500 years ago. Village was designated a UNESCO World Heritage.

20 Minutes

Andong Hahoe Village

Gyeongju National Museum You can see and learn about millennial kingdom of Silla in a short time.

Daereungwon Tomb Complex 23 royal tombs of Silla’s kings, queens and the royal family are scattered throughout downtown Gyeongju-si.

Conmaul Hospital of Oriental Medicine Eco-friendly architecture and design, the hospital offers a great variety of Oriental medicine programs.

Gyeongju Namsan Mountain Moonlight Tour Views and scenes not viewable during the day, the mystical ancient city of Gyeongju-si unveils under the moonlight.

40 Minutes

Buyongdae Cliff

Sinse-dong Mural Village

Byeongsanseowon Confucian Academy One of the 5 main Confucian academies of the Joseon Dynasty, it is a great example of Korean wooden architecture.

Andong Hahoe Village Praised by Queen Elizabeth II, as the most traditional area in Korea. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage.

Buyongdae Cliff Located to the north of Hahoe Village, the entire Hahoe Village can be seen atop Buyongdae.

Sinse-dong Mural Village As if an art museum had been brought outdoors, murals decorate the walls and buildings of this village.

240 |

16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes

|

15. Gyeongsangnam-do

|

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| 241

Routes 1

Gyeongsangnam-do

10 Minutes

Haeinsa Temple

Mountain and Maritime National Parks

1 Hour 40 Minutes

Hongnyudong Valley

1 Hour 25 Minutes

Jinjuseong Fortress

German Village

Routes 2 15 Minutes

Dongpirang Mural Village

Gyeongsangnam-do is rich in natural and traditional heritage. haeinsa Temple, which houses the UNESCO designated Tripitaka Koreana printing woodblocks, the Hallyeohaesang National Park,

Haeinsa Temple ⓒKTO

1 Hour 20 Minutes

Ropeway Overlooking Hallyeosudo

Haeinsa Temple House the UNESCO designated Tr i p i t a k a K o r e a n a P r i n t i n g Woodblocks and its depositories.

Hongnyudong Valley Valley stretching about 4 km from the entrance of Gayasan National Park to Haeinsa Temple.

which is often dubbed the Napoli Jinjuseong Fortress Home to Chokseongnu Pavilion, one of the three major pavilions of Korea.

of the Orient, and Jirisan National Park are all spectacular natural attractions in Gyeongsangnamdo. You can take a riverboat tour to see the extraordinary beauty of

Ropeway Overlooking Hallyeosudo ⓒKTO

the sea.

Somaemuldo Island ⓒKTO

Dongpirang Mural Village ⓒKTO

German Village Red roofs over white walls, this village depicts a typical German farming village.

Dongpirang Mural Village Painters from around the country saved this village, which was on the verge of demolition, by drawing murals on the fences of this village.

30 Minutes

Haegeumgang Riverboat

Oedo Botania

Ropeway Overlooking Hallyeosudo 1,975-m-long ropeway from Mireuksan Mountain overlooks the Hallyeohaesang National Park.

Haegeumgang Riverboat Riverboat touring through mesmerizing attractions along Haegeumgang Island.

Oedo Botania Located within the Hallyeohaesang National Park, this botanical garden offers splendid vistas.

242 |

16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes

| 16. Jeju Special Self-Governing Province |

jejutour.go.kr

| 243

Routes 1

Jeju Special Self-Governing Province

40 Minutes

55 Minutes

Hallasan National Park

5 Minutes

Kimnyoung Maze Park

+

15 Minutes

Manjanggul Cave

Udo Island

( Jejudo Island) Routes 2 35 Minutes

A World Heritage Created by a Volcanic Eruption

Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak

The largest island of Korea, Jeju

45 Minutes

Bijarim Forest

Hallasan National Park Mountain formed by a volcanic eruption in the center of the island.

Special Self-governing Province was formed due to a volcanic eruption over a million years

Kimnyoung Maze Park Designed by maze designer Adrin Fisher and built by Frederic H. Dustin, an American who fell in love with Jejudo Island.

ago. Lava spewing from Hallasan Mountain, located in the center of the island, created numerous caves, cliffs, waterfall and other natural creations while flowing

Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak ⓒKTO

towards the ocean. About 10% of this popular tourist island

Manjanggul Cave Lava tube registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Udo Island Located east of Jejudo Island, it is often referred to as an island of an island. Also a volcanic island it has a circumference of 17 km.

has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage.

Jusangjeolli Cliff ⓒKTO

Udo Island ⓒKTO

Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak Landform created by an underwater volcanic eruption, this crown-shaped tuff cone is a UNESCO Global Geopark.

50 Minutes

Kim Young-gap Gallery Dumoak

Soesokkak Estuary

Bijarim Forest Home to over 3,000 nutmeg trees about 300 to 800 years old.

Kim Young-gap Gallery Dumoak Exhibits photos taken by late photographer Kim Young-gap, who dedicated his entire life to taking pictures of Jejudo Island.

Soesokkak Estuary Unique rock formations and a dense forest created this beautiful natural attraction.

244 | Recommended Routes by Theme | 245

Themed Must-see Routes

Theme 1

UNESCO World Heritage Sites

➊ Seoul “Capital of Korea and Home of World Cultural Sites and Traditional Culture” Jongmyo Shrine → Insa-dong → Changdeokgung Palace → Bukchon Hanok Village → Samcheong-dong

➋ Gyeongju “City with History and Culture of the Silla Period for a Millennium” Bulguksa Temple → Seokguram Grotto → Yoseokgung →

Hall → Seosin-dong Makgeolli Village → Hanok Experience

Culture”

➋ Seoul “City Where Tradition and Modernity Co-Exist”

Baekje Cultural Complex → Yeonipbap → Gongju National

Kimchi Museum → COEX → Bongeunsa Temple (Templestay)

Museum → Magoksa Temple (Templestay)

→ Korea House

➌ Gyeonggi-do “Birthplace of Icheon Rice and Suwon Galbi Enjoyed by Royal Famillies” Icheon Ceramic Village → Ssambap jeongsik → Suwonhwaseong Fortress

Theme 8

Natural Attractions

➊ Jejudo Island “Island Made of Volcanic Activities One Million Years Ago” Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak → Abalone Dish → Seopjikoji Coast

Recommended must-see routes of Korea

Gyeongju National Museum → Bomun Lake Resort

➌ Gyeongsangbuk-do “Preserving the Spirit of Traditional

Theme 5

are categorized by theme. Choose the

Korean Villages”

Namiseom Island → Chuncheon-makguksu → Daegwallyeong

theme of your tour and select from the

Andong Folk Museum → Andong-jjimdak → Andong Hahoe

➊ Seoul “State-of-the-Art Medical Technology and Outstand Services”

Village → Buyongdae Cliff → Old House Experience

Health Screening at a General Hospital → Hanbang (Oriental

➌ Jeollanam-do “Historic Cities with Colorful Four Seasons”

Health Care

Medicine) Dish → Spa & Sauna → Temple Food

following routes.

Theme 2

Shopping

➊ Seoul “Home to Chic Shopping Attractions and the Latest Trendy Items” Itaewon → Hannam- dong → Apgujeong- dong →

➋ Daegu “Home of Traditional Oriental Medicine” Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Market → Hanbang-samgyetang → Daegu Yangnyeongsi Museum of Oriental Medicine → Donghwasa Temple (Tea Ceremony) → Dongseongno

Outstanding Nature” Alpensia Resort → Pollack and Buckwheat Dish → Jeongseon

Mountain Trekking → Silla Millennium Park → Ragung

Railbike → Hwaam Cave → Kangwon Land

➋ Gyeonggi-do “Exciting Water Sports on the Hangang

Ecological Tourism

➌ Busan “Vibrant, Exotic Port City”

Theme 6

Centum City → Haeundae Beach → Nampo-dong Guje

➊ Gyeongsangnam-do “Gorgeous Coastal Landscape and

Market → Jagalchi Market → Gwangalli Beach

Emerald Blue Sea”

Beauty Care

Cheongdam-dong → Dosan Park

➋ Chungcheongnam-do “The West Coast to Soothe Your Mind and Body” Boryeong Mud Skincare Center → Taean Seafood → Chollipo

Daejeon

Daegu

Jeollabuk-do Gyeongsangnam-do Gwangju

Ulsan

➋ Jeollanam-do “Slow City for a Leisurely Life” Slow City Changpyeong → Damyang Tteok-galbi → Juknokwon Garden → Slow City Jeungdo Island

➌ Jejudo Island “Vacation Island with Pristine Nature at Its Best” Jeju Olle Trails → Mulhoe → Hallasan National Park (Trails)

Seomyeon Medical Street → Bujeon Ginseng Market → Dongnae-

➊ Seoul “Harmony of Urban and Traditional Landscapes”

pajeon and Milmyeon → Centum City Spa Land

Gyeongbokgung Palace → Seochon Hanok Street → Samgyetang → National Museum of Korea → Itaewon

Food

➊ Jeollabuk-do “Place to Appreciate Korean Food with a Jeju Special Self-Governing Province

Traditional Culture

Theme 7

Theme 4

Rich Heritage” Jeonju Hanok Village → Jeonju Bibimbap → Gyeonggijeon

River and Cheongpyeong Lake” Misari Motorboat Racing Park → Naengmyeon and Noodle Dish → Namyangju Studio Complex → Cheongpyeong Water Sports Town

➌ Jejudo Island “Endless Attractions of the Blue Ocean” Jejudo Island Yachting Tour → Mackerel and Hairtail Dishes → Soesokkak Estuary Transparent Kayak Experience → Cheonjiyeon Falls Theme 10

Advanced Industry

➊ Daejeon “Future of the Advanced Science City” Daejeon Aqua World → Expo Science Park → Korea Aerospace

➌ Busan “Center of Rising Medical Tourism”

Busan

Jeollanam-do

(Jejudo Island)

Hyangiram Hermitage → Suncheonman Bay

Arboretum → Resom Ocean Castle

Gyeongsangbuk-do

Leisure Sports

Conmaul Gyeongju Oriental Hospital → Ssambap → Namsan

Hotel Spas → Nail Care and Skin Care → Hair Salons in

Chungcheongnam-do

Theme 9

➋ Gyeonggi-do “Luxury Shopping Towns, Ideal for Weekend Sojourns”

➊ Seoul “Center of Luxury Fashion and Beauty Care Trends”

Chungcheongbuk-do

→ Damyang Metasequoia Forest Road

➊ Gangwon-do “Heaven of Leisure Sports Surrounded by

Theme 3

Gyeonggi-do

Seryangji Lake → Full-Course Korean Meal → Soswaewon Garden

a Histric City”

Daraengi Village → Haemul-doenjang-jjigae and Makgeolli →

Gangwon-do

Sheep Ranch → Seoraksan National Park

➌ Gyeongju “Searching for Healty Traditional Mendicine in

Park → Lafesta

Incheon

➋ Gangwon-do“Beautiful Mountains, Valleys, and East Sea”

Cheongdam-dong → Garosu-gil Road

Yeoju Premium Outlets → Paju Premium Outlets → Ilsan Lake

Seoul

→ Jungmun Resort

➋ Jeollabuk-do “City of Traditional Culture and Art” Jeonju Hanji Museum → Jeonju Bibimbap → Jeonju Hanbang Cultural Center → Jeonju Hanok Village → Hanok Experience

➌ Chungcheongnam-do “Home of the Baekje History and

Research Institute → Yuseong Spa

➋ Seoul “Technology for Humans, Future for Cities” Samsung Dlight → Gangnam Station → T.um → Digital Pavilion → Hongik University

➌ Incheon “City of Future with Unique Art and Cultural Heritage” Incheon Art Platform → Incheon China Town → Tomorrow City → Songdo Central Park

246 | Travel Information | 247

General Information

Transportation

Currency

Airports

The Korean unit of currency is the won (\). It consists

Cellular Phones If you forgot or can’t change your

of a 50,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000 won note, and

phone to roaming, KT, SK and LG, Korea’s major phone

500, 100, 50, 10 won coins. There are bank windows at

service providers, have cellular phone rental booths

➊ Gimpo Int’l Airport

the Incheon International Airport, and at shops within

at the airport.

➋ Incheon Int’l Airport airport.or.kr

032-741-0114

the airport, downtown hotels, duty free shops accept

Area Codes in Korea (D.D.D.)

➌ Jeju Int’l Airport

jeju.airport.co.kr

064-797-2114

051

➍ Gimhae Int’l Airport

gimhae.airport.co.kr

051-972-3010

➎ Cheongju Int’l Airport cheongju.airport.co.kr 043-210-6114

Seoul

U.S. dollars.

02

Busan

Credit Cards There are many banks, money exchangers

Daegu

053

Incheon

032

and ATMs throughout Korea. Major credit cards are

Gwangju

062

Daejeon

042

accepted in most restaurants, cafes, malls, etc.

Ulsan

052

Gyeonggi-do

031

Exchange Rate

Gangwon-do

033

Chungcheong 043 buk-do

USD CNY JPY EUR

1$ 10¥ 100¥ 1€

1,098\ 1,757\ 1,372\ 1,420\

*As of October, 2012

Chungcheong 041 nam-do Jeollanam-do 061 Gyeongsang nam-do

055

Sejong

044

Jeollabuk-do

063

Gyeongsang buk-do

054

Jejudo Island

064

Electricity

Airport

➏ Daegu Int’l Airport

Website gimpo.airport.co.kr

daegu.airport.co.kr

Tel 02-2660-2114

➐ ➊

➋

➎

053-980-5290

➐ Yangyang Int’l Airport yangyang.airport.co.kr 033-670-7114

➓

➑ Gwangju Int’l Airport gwangju.airport.co.kr 062-940-0214 ➒ Muan Int’l Airport

muan.airport.co.kr

061-455-2114

➓ Gunsan Airport

gunsan.airport.co.kr

063-469-8345

Pohang Airport

pohang.airport.co.kr

054-289-7309

Yeosu Airport

yeosu.airport.co.kr

061-683-7997

Ulsan Airport

ulsan.airport.co.kr

052-219-6309

Wonju Airport

wonju.airport.co.kr

033-344-3311

Sacheon Airport

sacheon.airport.co.kr

055-852-0768

➏

➑ ➒

➍

➌

The standard voltage in Korea is 220 volts, and the

Internet

outlet has two round holes. If you do not have a

Most hotels have a computer/internet area for its

multi-voltage adapter, most tourist hotels have

Trains

Express Buses

guests. These days, restaurants, cafes, and most public

adapters available upon request.

To inquire about fares, hours and reservations call

You can reserve tickets online at KOBUS (kobus.co.kr).

areas offer free wi-fi access. If you are asked for an id

KORAIL at 1544-7788. Or you can also visit their

You cannot make reservations through the English

and password, ask the store for

Website korail.com (English site available).

site, but you may check availability.

Telephone Public Phones Although somewhat hard to find, public phones in Korea are easy to use and take either phone

Internet Cafes Being a fast IT country, internet cafe, PCbang in Korean, are very easy to find. You can use a

Car Rental

computer for 1,000 to 1,500 won per hour.

Rental cars in Korea are very easy to find. Rental cars are especially convenient if you are a free-spirited

cards or coins. Coined phones charge 70 won for the first 180 seconds on local calls, and 43 seconds on domestic

Pharmacies

long distance calls. Phone cards may be purchased at

If you are staying at a hotel, go to the front desk for

convenience stores, post offices of banks, and you may

emergency over-the-counter medication. Otherwise,

call international long distance as well.

look for the nearest pharmacy.

traveler and prefer visiting random sites that come along the way. ※Call the 1330 Travel Information Call Center for the nearest rental car agency

Useful Phone Numbers Travel Information Call Center 1330 International Call Information Center 00794 Emergency Medical Service for Foreigners 1339 Police 112 Fire & Ambulance 119 Operator Assisted International Call 00799 International Telegram Service 00795 Tourist Complaint Center 02-735-0101 Interpretation Service BBB 1588-5644 (Before Babel Brigade)

I Love Korea! www.visitkoreayear.com www.mustseeroutes.or.kr

Publisher

Shin Dong-bin (Visit Korea Committee, Chairman)

Planning

Visit Korea Committee, Korea JoongAng Daily Newspaper

Writers

Kathleen Stephens and others

Compiler

Son Min-ho (Korea JoongAng Daily Newspaper)

Planning & Design

Design Soomokwon Inc.

Address

34 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Telephone

02-6272-7317

Fax

02-6272-7200

â&#x20AC;ťContent of this book is valid as of October, 2012, and changes may have occurred thereafter.

Not for sale.