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NO 248
COVER STORIES
25 STYLE The season of scarlet.
BY CAIA HAGEL
50 MONEY How to get on the same financial page as your partner.
BY TRUC NGUYEN
55 BEAUTY The ELLE International Beauty Awards.
BY THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
76 CELEBRITY Lizzo opens up about the highs, the lows and the lessons she’s learned. BY KENYA
HUNT
STYLE & FASHION
28 STYLE Designer Marie-Philippe Thibault on making timeless handbags. BY ERICA NGAO
29 SHOPPING Hit the slopes.
30 STYLE Mariah Carey spreads her wings with a recent Chopard collaboration. BY JOANNA FOX
31 SHOPPING Think outside the bag.
32 STYLE The rise of designer vintage. BY RANDI BERGMAN
86 FASHION For alpine adventures, up the ante on your winterwear.
92 FASHION Streetwear style meets military chic to heat up the cooler season.
98 FASHION Indigenous Canadian designers are taking on Milan.
BY TRUC NGUYEN
ellecanada . com 13
2023
FEBRUARY/MARCH
76
PHOTOGRAPHY, AB+DM; DRESS (CUSTOM-MADE OTTOLINGER), EARRINGS (BRIONY RAYMOND NEW YORK) AND RINGS (BULGARI)
www.mcmworldwide.com MCM Toronto 85 Bloor St W MCM Yorkdale 3401 Dufferin St
BEAUTY & WELLNESS
62 BEAUTY Celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff shares her secrets. BY LESA
HANNAH
64 BEAUTY Are semi-permanent freckles worth the hype?
BY JOANIE PIETRACUPA
66 BEAUTY Actor Sydney Sweeney on her new role with Armani Beauty.
BY ELISABETH MASSICOLLI
67 SHOPPING Après-ski self-care. BY
THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
68 BEAUTY Discovering the many sides of La Maison Valmont.
BY JOANIE PIETRACUPA
70 WELLNESS The art of bath rituals. BY
INGRIE WILLIAMS
73 HEALTH Common misconceptions debunked. BY
VAL DESJARDINS
FEATURES
34 PROFILE TheWhiteLotus actor Sabrina Impacciatore on the role of a lifetime.
BY JOANNA FOX
36 BOOKS Costume designer Patricia Field’s autobiography is a style odyssey. BY
106 FOOD Chef Fatima Ali’s legacy lives on in a posthumous memoir. BY AMAN
DOSANJ
WENDY KAUR
40 PROFILE Quebec actor Karine Vanasse on her new English-language series.
BY CAMILLE CARDIN-GOYER
108 LIFESTYLE In Cognac, France, learn how to sip and savour the town’s famous namesake spirit. BY
ELISABETH MASSICOLLI
113 ASTROLOGY Your full astral forecast for the winter season. BY
VANESSA DL
MISHAL CAZMI
42 BOOKS This season’s latest romance novels are sure to captivate. BY
44 PROFILE Pamela Anderson opens up in her recent memoir and her Netflix documentary.
BY KELLY BOUTSALIS
47 SOCIETY Hockey Canada: an organization gone wrong. BY CAITLIN
STALL-PAQUET
100 TRAVEL How to be more mindful when visiting the Hawaiian island of Maui.
BY JOANNA FOX
ON THE COVER
Lizzo is wearing a coat by Versace, boots by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello and her own bracelet. Photographers AB+DM Stylists Georgia Medley and Jason Rembert Hairstylist Shelby Swain
Makeup artist Alexx Mayo Manicurist Eri Ishizu (Opus)
Tailor Hasmik Kourinian Editorial producer Rachel Oliver Stylists’ assistant Grace Clarke
ellecanada . com 15
PHOTOGRAPHY, MATTIAS BJÖRKLUND; DRESS AND BOOTS (MARINE SERRE), BAG (VENCZEL), BRACELET (ACNE STUDIOS) AND RING (SIMUERO)
92
EVERY MONTH 18 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 20 FRONT ROW 39 DEBUT 111 SHOPPING GUIDE 112 ASTROLOGY 114 FINALE
PUBLISHER SOPHIE BANFORD
ASSOCIATE EDITOR JOANNA FOX BEAUTY DIRECTOR THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER SAMANTHA PUTH
GRAPHIC DESIGNER ALEX BLONDIN EDITORIAL COORDINATOR CLAUDIA GUY DIGITAL DIRECTOR CYNTHIA QUELLET
HEAD OF DIGITAL CONTENT HEATHER TAYLOR-SINGH DIGITAL CONTENT ASSISTANT ALEX GONTHIER
CONTRIBUTORS
CAITLIN AGNEW, RANDI BERGMAN, KELLY BOUTSALIS, CAMILLE CARDIN-GOYER, DUGGAN CAYER, MISHAL CAZMI, VAL DESJARDINS, VANESSA DL, AMAN DOSANJ, JANE FIELDING, TAISHA GARBY, ESTELLE GERVAIS, CAIA HAGEL, LESA HANNAH, KENYA HUNT, ROBB JAMIESON, PATRICIA KAROUNOS, WENDY KAUR, OLIVIA LEBLANC, ELISABETH MASSICOLLI, ERICA NGAO, TRUC NGUYEN, ANNE-SOPHIE PERREAULT, JOANIE PIETRACUPA, CIARA RICKARD, CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET, EVE THOMAS, INGRIE WILLIAMS
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Registered user: KO Média Inc., 651 Notre-Dame West, Suite 100, Montreal, Quebec H3C 1H9. Contents copyright © 2023 by KO Média Inc. ELLE Canada is published 9 times per year except for occasional combined, expanded or premium issues. May not be reprinted without written permission. Single copy price: $5.99+tax. Full subscription price: Canada, 1 year, $19.99+tax; for subscription inquiries, call 1-866-697-3776. Digital editions are available on Zinio, Apple News, Press Reader and Ebsco. Printing: TC Transcontinental Printing, 1603 Montarville Blvd., Boucherville, Quebec J4B 5Y2. Distributed by Coast to Coast Newsstand Services Ltd. Publications Mail Agreement 43144516. ISSN 1496-5186
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PROUDLY CANADIAN
LAST YEAR WAS A DIFFICULT ONE , marked by fatigue, viruses, war, protests, politics and increasing examples of the effects of climate change. Focusing on the heartening, the positive and the illuminating is more important than ever right now, which is why I’m so excited to present to you our first issue of 2023, designed to help you embark on this year’s wild ride with a little bit of softness, compassion and clarity.
As we entered 2023, I had the time to take a bit of a break—a chance to rest, take stock of the past year and determine how I can do better in the months ahead. Collectively, we’ve made great strides on all kinds of issues, but there is still a certain amount of foot dragging being done by some—myself included. In our bid to be better in 2023, perhaps we should leave behind...
...comments about people’s weight, appearance or style, no matter who they are. All bodies are good bodies. Play on repeat.
...making generalizations about entire generations. (“Millennials like this; gen Zs like that.”) Why do we have to put things in neat and tidy boxes?
A 2023 MEMO
...false allies who use hashtags and social-justice movements only to advance their own agenda or fill their wallet. We see you.
...the glorification of toxic masculinity in songs, podcasts, TV shows, social media and sports. Let’s all be Greta Thunbergs in the face of the Andrew Tates of this world!
...the undermining of women in positions of power as well as ordinary sexism in the workplace. Enough.
...the excusing of anti-Semitic, racist, homophobic or transphobic remarks made by well-known personalities because we like their art, music or style. (I’m not even going to say his name.)
...the minimizing or excusing of the actions of protected abusers while victims are silenced with payouts and non-disclosures.
I could go on and on, but, as Michelle Obama would say, when they go low, we go high. In my life, as in these pages, I want to continue to cultivate empathy, attentiveness and curiosity. I want to welcome difference, vulnerability and authenticity. I want to fight for equality again and again so that this year is brighter, better and more human. Shall we get started?
Happy reading.
18 ellecanada . com
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
PHOTOGRAPHER, ANDRÉANNE GAUTHIER; STYLIST, LAURA MALISAN; MAKEUP ARTIST, VIRGINIE VANDELAC. S. BANFORD IS WEARING A BLOUSE BY THEORY (AT HOLT RENFREW) AND JEANS AND JEWELLERY (HER OWN).
Sophie Banford , publisher @sophiebanford
February/March
What’s on the ELLE editors’ radar right now.
WORLDS COLLIDE
Ten years after their first collaboration, French luxury brand LOUIS VUITTON and world-renowned Japanese artist YAYOI KUSAMA have come together once again for a two-part collection. The first part, which hit stores earlier this year, focuses on several of the artist’s iconic themes, including dots—her painted, metal and infinity ones—and psychedelic flowers, while the second is promising its own distinct thematic direction reflecting Kusama’s motifs and inspirations. Displaying the fashion house’s savoir faire, the unique collection explores a variety of printing and embellishment techniques, including 3-D serigraphy, exquisite leather marquetry, complex embroideries, laser on denim and delicate enamelling. louisvuitton.com
20 ellecanada . com TEXT, CAITLIN AGNEW, THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU,
LEROUX
JOANNA FOX, ROBB JAMIESON, TRUC NGUYEN, EVE THOMAS; PHOTOGRAPHY, CORENTIN
Swan Song
The holidays may be over, but Channing Tatum still has a little bit of magic left to give: The easy-on-the-eyes actor is reprising his steamy role in Magic Mike’s Last Dance (out February 10). Although acclaimed director Steven Soderbergh—who was at the helm of the first Magic Mike movie—stepped away for the sequel, he’s back for the stripteasing saga’s final instalment, in which our beloved sexy dancer is down on his luck until he meets a wealthy socialite (Salma Hayek) who whisks him off to London for one last all-or-nothing shot. Will it be the “Super Bowl of stripping” that Tatum promised us? Fingers crossed.
BOOT UP
At Noir Kei Ninomiya, creative director and Rei Kawakubo protege Kei Ninomiya is known for challenging conventional notions about apparel with results that are nothing short of avant-garde. For his spring/summer 2023 collection, Ninomiya collaborated with Hunter on a series of all-season, all-weather versions of the British boot brand’s “Play” and “Original” styles, adding harness-like embellishments with metallic accents. On the runway, the footwear brought Ninomiya’s ethereal creations down to earth, effectively grounding them with their familiar presence. Expect the opposite effect when you take them out for a spin in the real world. hunterboots.com
INTO THE WILD
Mitzah Bricard, Christian Dior’s famed Parisian muse of the 1950s, was known for her extravagant style and love of leopard print—she was actually one of the first to sport the pattern before it became a must for the French fashion house. Now, Dior Beauty is paying homage to her with the Mitzah collection, which includes an eyeshadow palette featuring her signature wild spots as well as an audacious brick-hued Diorshow Iconic Overcurl mascara, three colours of Dior Vernis, a Dior Addict lip balm and new shades of the iconic Rouge Dior created for the occasion. And who better than fresh-face-of-Dior actor Anya Taylor-Joy to bring the character of this limitededition collection to life? Now, that’s something to muse about.
From $39, dior.com
ellecanada . com 21
PHOTOGRAPHY, CLAUDETTE BARIUS (MAGIC MIKE) & COURTESY OF COMME DES
(HUNTER
GARÇONS
RUNWAY)
LESS IS MORE
Inspired by the wabi-sabi concept—the idea of being satisfied with less and finding serenity in imperfection— Sekkisei’s new skincare line, Clear Wellness, banks on the power of Japanese medicinal herbs, like coix-seed extract, to pamper your skin. The treatment’s four simple steps (a gentle foaming cleanser, a balancing liquid, a softening milk and a light water-based cream) help your skin take in lasting hydration, reduce inflammation and even out tone—all in one fell swoop.
From $29, sekkisei-ca.com
Haute at Home
Fans of FENDI ’s design signatures can now enjoy the label from the comfort of home following the debut of the brand’s first home-decor-and-lifestyleaccessories collection. Joining the Fendi Casa world, these new pieces were created under the direction of Silvia Venturini Fendi and range from textiles, tableware and candles to tabletop games, like backgammon. The art de la table line takes its cues from Fendi’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections, which are translated from the runway to the dining room via a black-and-white motif of the interlacing O’Lock logo. For the glassware offerings, Venturini Fendi tapped the expertise of her mother, Anna Fendi, the visionary behind the original Fendi Casa line that made its debut way back in 1987. fendi.com
3-D VISION
“Fashion and architecture are both fundamentally about balancing form and how geometric [shapes] relate to the body,” says Rebecca Lemire, founder of Montrealbased fashion line Olbrich, which launched in late 2022. As the name suggests, the brand draws inspiration from avant-garde architect Joseph Maria Olbrich (who co-founded the Vienna Secession collective alongside Gustav Klimt) as well as fashion designers like Issey Miyake, Jeremy Laing and Jil Sander, nodding to their famously clean lines and innovative production methods. Yet Lemire goes the extra mile in terms of minimalism: Each piece is 3-D printed to order. That means no warehouse inventory, no textile waste, no unsold items and no exploitative assembly line. With 3-D knitwear, a single strand of yarn is turned into one seamless, timeless piece, whether it’s a cashmere cardigan, an ecoviscose sweater dress or flared cotton pants. The result: slow fashion on demand.
22 ellecanada . com
Cover Up
No one is safe from the occasional pimple showing up at the worst possible time. But what if you could treat it throughout the day in incognito mode? That’s the idea behind Peace Out Skincare’s new acne day dots, which contain the same active ingredients as the original (hello, salicylic acid, retinol and aloe) in an impossibly thin hydrocolloid polymer patch that can be covered with makeup. “The creation process was long because each time the labs sent me a version of the dots, they were like, ‘This is the thinnest we can go’ and I was like, ‘No, no, no,’” recalls the brand’s founder, Enrico Frezza. “I pushed back until it was just 0.7 millimetres thick.” This sort of protection helps blemishes heal better, and, most importantly, it stops us from picking at them. $25, sephora.ca
FEEL THE HEAT
Swedish boundary-pushing synth-pop band Fever Ray is back with a new album, Radical Romantics (out March 10). It’s been five long years since the critically acclaimed Plunge shook our dance floors, and the need for the group’s distinct, darkly textured pop, led by Karin Dreijer’s breathy vocals, is at an all-time high. Written and recorded with Dreijer’s brother Olof Dreijer (who is also her former Knife bandmate), Radical Romantics also features Trent Reznor and Atticus Ross— musical trailblazers in the dark arts—as contributors, and their styles pair perfectly with Fever Ray’s subterranean-dance-club style.
REFORMATION X CANADA GOOSE
Luxury meets sustainability in the outerwear collab we’ve all been waiting for from beloved fashionista brand Reformation and local outerwear mainstay Canada Goose. Made with responsibly sourced down and recycled fibres, the eight-piece collection includes parkas, vests, reversible parkas and, our staff fave, a colourful head scarf. The collection features some of Reformation’s beloved bold colours and whimsical prints, including “Lipstick” red and “Coriander” floral—both of which will pop against a snowy winter backdrop. Staying warm never looked so good. thereformation.com
FRONT ROW
Eyes on the Prize
Canada’s most prestigious art prize, the Sobey Art Award, provides us with a snapshot of our diverse contemporary-art community and honours artists from across the country. Check out the work of the 2022 prizewinner, Winnipeg-born Divya Mehra—along with that of the other shortlisted artists, including Tyshan Wright, Stanley Février, Azza El Siddique and Krystle Silverfox—in a compelling group exhibition at Ottawa’s National Gallery of Canada until March 12. Through their work, each artist meditates on themes in a way that reflects their personal experiences, global concerns, history, identity and narrative. gallery.ca
CAPITAL STAY
A visit to Ottawa just got a little more chic with the recent redesign of The Metcalf Hotel, in the heart of the downtown core and within walking distance of the Rideau Canal, the Rideau Centre, Parliament Hill and the National Gallery of Canada. Combining the building’s historic architecture with modern furnishings and curated design elements—the latter thanks to Ottawa-based design firm Iron & Ivory—the boutique hotel, which is part of the Montreal-based familyowned Gray Collection, is bright and inviting and makes for a cool, contemporary addition to our capital city. And if you’re in need of dinner reservations, look no further than the sophisticated in-house restaurant, Cocotte Bistro, where French cuisine reigns supreme with offerings like oysters, charcuterie and, of course, steak-frites. themetcalfhotel.com
RAGE BECOMES HER
Some books are so good you can’t put them down. Bleed: Destroying Myths and Misogyny in Endometriosis Care is so good you’ll want to throw it across the room. In this infuriating, in-depth look at an excruciating condition, Canadian journalist Tracey Lindeman deftly weaves together a million different reasons to get good and mad about the under-studied illness, from the gruesome history of gynecology to her own gruelling journey to obtaining a hysterectomy as well as myriad interviews with people navigating endo—and the medical gaslighting that comes with it. “Some people told me that talking to me was the first time they’d ever felt heard,” says Lindeman. “Because even though we are all smart people, it’s still hard to get rid of the feeling that perhaps we’re just being ridiculous.” Whether you’re an endo warrior yourself, have a chronically ill loved one or have simply been sidelined by a system not built for you, Bleed will make you feel angry, yes, but also validated, empowered and ready for a revolution. ecwpress.com
24 ellecanada . com
AFTERLIFE OF COLONIALISM (2018–2022) BY DIVYA MEHRA
FRONT ROW
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF CANADA. AFTERLIFE OF COLONIALISM (2018–2022) BY DIVYA MEHRA, NATIONAL GALLERY OF CANADA, OTTAWA
SCARLET IS THE NEW BLACK
Turn up the heat.
By CAIA HAGEL
SCARLET—THE SULTRY SHADE OF RED that has been a favourite of history’s most memorable leading ladies—is making a strong comeback this season. Among a bevy of silky, lacy, leathery blacks, this splash of hot colour is signalling a shift in not only suits, gowns, coats and shoes but also lips and nails. This hue, symbolic of the irresistible emotive undercurrents of power and passion, has moved from the spring/summer 2023 runways to become a red-carpet, social-media and celebrity-wardrobe darling. Are we in the mood for love?
ellecanada . com 25
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
MICHAEL KORS LOEWE
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE
style
VALENTINO
THE EMOTIONAL STRENGTH AND AMBIGUITY OF THIS SPECIAL SHADE OF RED MAKES IT THE COLOUR OF THE HEART—AND THE MOST STATEMENT-MAKING.
Since they first appeared in the late Neolithic period (which ended in about 2200 BC), garments made with scarlet dyes have been considered highly prestigious and associated with the qualities of courage, force, lust and joy. In religious history, they’ve been symbolic of divine love, sacrifice and the metaphorical blood of saints and martyrs. But they’ve also been symbols of the opposite: the vices of immorality, hedonism and sin. Inspired by both piety and extravagance, as well as the beauty of Basque flamenco dancers and bullfighters, the late Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga captured the red mood and was the first to bring scarlet to mainstream fashion. Dressing in this hue has since become as much a symbol of seduction and luxury in high fashion as it has of vitality and action in streetwear, where it signifies youth culture, athletic prowess, effortless sex appeal and protest in brands from Supreme to Nike Air. The emotional strength and ambiguity of this special shade of red makes it the colour of the heart—and the most statement-making.
This fiery spirit was evident at Alexander McQueen, where scarlet dresses with cut-outs elegantly revealed skin and bold low-cut red suits gave us a more intimate glimpse into contemporary femininity and served as an expression of today’s woman. “It’s always about a woman dressing for a woman, so it’s not a male gaze,” said Sarah Burton, the brand’s creative director, in a statement about the show. “I wanted to sort of embrace the female form in a kind of dissected [manner].”
YSL added some secrecy to this hot mood with a bold-shouldered dark-scarlet long leather jacket over a body-hugging aubergine hooded dress, complete with sunglasses. Raf Simons, whose spring/summer 2023 show turned out to be his finale, paired a scarlet mesh micro-dress with a matching fur vest and tights for a layered look that screamed both casual confidence and quiet, simmering passion. Taking that simmer to a rolling boil, at Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe, a giant scarlet anthurium flower was the centrepiece of a show that featured this red leitmotif on dresses and shoes. And it was no surprise to get a similar feverish feeling at Valentino; the house’s commitment to romantic scarlet (known as Rosso Valentino) has been de rigueur since its first collection (in 1959) and is the subject of a
namesake book recently launched by the brand. The couture show’s signature floor-length scarlet gown was exceptionally mysterious. Concealing everything but the neck, it was a contrapposto to the opening look—a traffic-stopping minidress made of taffeta red roses.
The complex glamour of scarlet has also ruled the red carpets—so much so that when Selena Gomez arrived at the Critics’ Choice Awards last March in Louis Vuitton, she made headlines for wearing “red-carpet red.” Gomez joined many others dressed in the vivid hue, including Elizabeth Olsen, Issa Rae, Kaitlyn Dever and Chrissy Metz. At May’s Cannes Film Festival, Olivia Culpo wore a daring low-necked, high-slit scarlet YSL suit dress, while Kristen Stewart gave the colour some cool charm with her all-red Chanel pantsuit. Diane Kruger oozed elegance in scarlet Oscar de la Renta, Kaia Gerber was a beacon in floor-sweeping Celine and Noomi Rapace’s Paula Rowan gloves were audacious. The 2022 Oscars were just as carnal. Kirsten Dunst (in chiffon Lacroix) and Amelie Zilber (in soft Dior) recast scarlet as the colour of the heart. And love was in the air at the Met Gala as well; the feeling was infectious when TikTok star Avani Gregg went viral wearing a red Bach Mai gown with matching leather gloves and posed against a red-rose wall.
But it seems like this flood of emotion has been waiting for us on the sidelines. Flame Scarlet made the top of the list of Pantone colours in the summer of 2020, when isolation was creating more of a desire to couple-up and rediscover our fiery passions. In the current context—alongside the aftershocks of #MeToo and the ongoing cancel culture—scarlet’s return could be alarming. It might be a signal of rage, revolt or danger or mean “red flag.” But it could also be a cry for change and a reminder from deep within that no matter how digital and independent we have become, or how political our relationships seem to be, our hearts are still human and we crave connection.
“Red is the great clarifier—bright, cleansing and revealing,” said the late Diana Vreeland, former Vogue editor-in-chief and empress of fashion. “It makes all colours beautiful. I can’t imagine becoming bored with red; it would be like becoming bored with the person you love.”
STYLE ellecanada . com 27
MAS
By ERICA NGAO
MARIE-PHILIPPE THIBAULT WANTS TO BE THERE for all the moments in your life—not literally, of course, but through her bags. The Montreal designer’s approach to the wardrobe staple—whether she’s creating a sleek and sculptural evening purse or an elegant carryall made for everyday errands—can be summed up in one word: timeless. Mas, which Thibault founded in 2021, is the answer for anyone looking for a quality-made accessory that will never go out of style.
After studying product development at Parsons School of Design in New York City, Thibault went on to complete internships at major fashion houses, including Hermès and Louis Vuitton. It was there, working with brands revered for their exceptional leather work, that she learned the ins and outs of creating the perfect handbag. The beauty of a Mas bag—always understated but singular in style—lies in the tiny details and the behind-the-scenes work that shoppers don’t usually see.
Each of her pieces is handcrafted in Italy with leather from a family-owned tannery in France and North American wood. But if you look closely, traces of Thibault and her dedication to quality are apparent. Her childhood, spent in the countryside in Estérel, Que., is the inspiration for the wooden elements she uses. The effortless silhouettes are imbued with the warmth of the jazz music that Thibault listens to while sketching. Most of all, the lessons she learned by watching her mother and grandmother work as seamstresses can be felt in the refined designs.
QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
“We want to [attract] a woman who understands quality— [someone] to whom you don’t need to explain it a thousand ways because she just knows what it is. Everything she wears she wears intentionally. I love when a woman’s style is discreet but shows that she cares about the product.”
SWEATING THE SMALL THINGS
“You need to work when you work at a fashion house. It taught me discipline and a relentless [desire] to perfect the details. It also taught me how to bring a singular vision to life. I learned a lot about the process of making accessories—the time and research it takes. Every step is really important in the creation of a bag.”
LESSONS LEARNED
“I would see my mom and grandmother working on clothes during the night in the basement. I saw how much patience and passion they had. That’s what I learned from them at a young age and why I always persist. In the beginning, it was hard to find the right [production] partners, but the time it took paid off because they truly care about the craftsmanship and the quality.”
HERO PIECE
“I was 15 when my dad bought me my first designer bag—a Michael Kors—for Christmas. It felt really special, and I still have it. It started my love of bags. When I was studying in New York, I always saw my classmates and colleagues with different bags. I feel like a bag represents a woman. You can wear a T-shirt and jeans and complete the look with a bag.”
28 ellecanada . com
PHOTOGRAPHY, MATHIEU FORTIN
Designer MARIE-PHILIPPE THIBAULT ’s handbags are classic pieces made to stand the test of time.
MARIE-PHILIPPE THIBAULT
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BUTTERFLY BLING
Pop icon MARIAH CAREY has teamed up with jewellery brand Chopard for two collections that are sure to set your heart aflutter.
By JOANNA FOX
MARIAH CAREY HAS ALWAYS BEEN A PERFORMER who’s not afraid to make a statement. Whether she does so with her powerful singing voice, through her lyrics or with her bold fashion choices, she knows how to command attention. Now, Carey is showing us another way to make a sartorial splash: with her latest jewellery collab. The pop icon and luxury-jewellery brand Chopard have come together to create two collections inspired by the butterfly, a symbol of transformation that has important meaning for Carey—Butterfly was the name of her 1997 album, which served as a turning point for her and symbolized a new-found freedom for the artist.
Carey worked alongside Chopard co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele to create her first collection, Chopard x Mariah Carey, which is made up of exclusive pavé-diamond fine jewellery, including a butterfly ring, winged earrings and a large butterfly necklace, all finished in Fairmined certified-ethical 18-karat gold. Happy Butterfly x Mariah Carey is what Carey calls “the more casual collection” of the two, and it includes dayto-day butterfly-adorned pieces like bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings crafted in ethical rose or white gold and diamonds sourced from suppliers certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council.
We spoke to Carey shortly after the release of her new collections about why jewellery is important to her, how this collaboration came about and how she likes to wear the pieces.
DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST PIECE YOU GOT THAT MADE YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH JEWELLERY? “I don’t think it was a specific piece of jewellery—it was more things I saw in vintage movies
[on] Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, people who were known for loving diamonds and having major collections. Originally, I didn’t wear much jewellery. It wasn’t that I didn’t know about it; it was just that I didn’t have much of it. Now, I am a little bit more particular and more of a collector, and I love the whole design element, so it was such a major thing that I was able to collaborate with Chopard. It’s literally a dream come true.”
IS JEWELLERY AN IMPORTANT PART OF YOUR PERFORMANCE?
“Yes and no. It depends on the moment. On some occasions, it is very important and people notice it; other times, I just feel like wearing a necklace.”
DO YOU REMEMBER YOUR FIRST DIAMOND? “I do, but it is a sad story—I can’t get into it. At some point, it needed to go on its merry way. It’s no longer around, but it used to be my lucky thing—or so I thought. I remember the first diamond bracelet I bought, which I still have, and I do quite love it. It’s a vintage piece.”
JUST BUY YOUR OWN DIAMONDS. “Exactly.”
HOW DID THIS COLLABORATION WITH CHOPARD COME ABOUT? “I always thought it would be amazing to have a collaboration, but I never dreamt it would end up being with Chopard. It was sort of a coincidence the way it happened. Caroline [Scheufele] sent me a personal note and a beautiful scarf with a butterfly theme. I called her and we started talking, and this is what happened. Chopard is the top tier of all things jewellery, and I am very honoured to be working with the brand. I think it is also important to say that Chopard is very conscious about the use of ethical gold and gemstones, and that was a major part of our collaborative discussions.”
WHAT DOES THE BUTTERFLY SYMBOLIZE FOR YOU? “I have loved the butterfly motif since I made my album Butterfly , which was years after I started [my career] but still early on in my life. That album represented me leaving a place that was extremely stifling and difficult and then having to emerge—which not everybody was sure I would be able to do because it was a very difficult moment. In terms of the symbolism of the butterfly, I think a lot of people have their own personal attachments to it. I see so many people that this symbol means a lot to.”
HOW DO YOU LIKE TO WEAR YOUR COLLECTIONS? “The ‘Happy Butterfly’ bracelet, [which has] gold and butterflies on one side, looks great stacked. And I must say that the butterfly necklace from the fine-jewellery collection—with the three diamond chains on either side—is magnificent, and I’ve never seen anything like it. I’ve known it since it was a sketch that Caroline did while we were working together, so it’s very special to me.”
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PHOTOGRAPHY, KOTO BOLOFO
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HAUTE VINTAGE
A new generation of collectors have an unquenchable thirst for archival designer pieces.
By RANDI BERGMAN COLLAGE, ANNE-SOPHIE PERREAULT
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WHEN KIM KARDASHIAN wore Marilyn Monroe’s legendary crystal Jean Louis dress to the 2022 Met Gala, the internet erupted with equal parts delight and dismay. While her red-carpet appearance was the most headline-grabbing moment of the night, many in the latter camp felt that the dress—famously worn by Monroe when she serenaded John F. Kennedy with “Happy Birthday, Mr. President” during a 1962 Democratic Party fundraiser—is a historical artifact best preserved under lock and key. Indeed, the dress is a piece of American mythology, becoming the most expensive in history after it was purchased by Ripley’s Believe It or Not! for over $6.4 million in 2016. (The museum claims the dress is now worth upwards of $13 million.) Reports of damage to the dress only fuelled the ire, but the stunt raised an interesting question about the inherent function of fashion: Should something that’s meant to be worn ever be considered too precious for human contact? While the Monroe dress is an extreme example, Los Angeles-based fashion collector Johnny Valencia says, “There’s nothing worse than being told that you can look but can’t touch.” Valencia is the owner of Pechuga Vintage, an online archive store known for ultra-rare designer finds. He often goes head-to-head with institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art over archival pieces— they bid on them for their permanent collections, while he bids on them for women who want to wear them out in the world. On the Marilyn dress controversy, Valencia recalls a Canadian fun fact: Ripley’s is owned by Jim Pattison, a Vancouver-based grocery billionaire who purchased the dress in part to promote his chain, Save-On-Foods. Pattison’s Ripley’s does not adhere to the usual museum ethics codes. “It would be like me telling you what to do with your new Chanel bag that you purchased with your own money,” says Valencia. “If you want to destroy it, be my guest. Would it be a loss? Intrinsically, yes. Would it be morally wrong? That would depend on who you are asking.”
Valencia is part of a new crop of Insta-famous vintage dealers who are popularizing archival pieces. Once the exclusive domain of institutions, archivists and seasoned collectors, rare vintage now represents an opportunity for fashion enthusiasts to set themselves apart from everyone else on the hamster wheel of microtrends. Kerry Taylor, an auctioneer who has specialized in antique fashion and textiles as well as contemporary haute couture at her London house, Kerry Taylor Auctions, since 2003, counts a younger demographic among her growing clientele. “We have a lot of young women who understand what good-value vintage fashion is—usually better-made, unique pieces that you won’t find someone else wearing at a party,” she says. To wit, archival designerwear has become de rigueur for young stars on the red carpet. Take, for instance, Cardi B in 1995 Thierry Mugler couture at the 2019 Grammy Awards, Olivia Rodrigo in 2001 Versace at the 2021 MTV Video Music Awards and Zendaya in 1998 Bob Mackie at the TIME100 Gala in 2022. A quick scroll through your Instagram feed would serve up countless others.
The demand for ultra-rare fashion has skyrocketed among celebrities and everyday shoppers alike, and just like with art collectors, this demand is reflected in market value (read
“climbing prices”). Since 2019, it’s been impossible not to notice the prevalence of Vivienne Westwood corsets from the 1980s and 1990s on everyone from Alexa Demie to Miley Cyrus to Megan Thee Stallion (all of whom are clients of Valencia’s). These corsets originated with Westwood’s fall/winter 1987/1988 collection and went on to become a house signature, later being adorned with the amorous imagery of 18th-century painter Francis Boucher in the early 1990s. The Boucher pieces have been particularly popular lately, fetching as much as £6,000 (about $9,700) each at auction, according to Taylor. With Westwood’s recent passing, demand climbed even further. (Valencia has lowered the price on some Westwood pieces in his store so that more enthusiasts have access to her designs.) Back in 2015, Valencia combed platforms like eBay and Poshmark and snapped up some of the corsets for around $150 each. Forecasting interest is key to dealers like Valencia’s success. “If you missed out when 2000s-era Dior saddlebags were selling for $125, you missed out,” he says.
Jean Paul Gaultier is another designer experiencing a renaissance, with his body-con designs—from extreme corsets à la Madonna’s 1990 Blond Ambition tour to suggestive trompe l’oeil prints—becoming so popular that the house re-explored and reissued them this year. (In an ironic twist, Gaultier was accused of knocking off the brand Syndical Chamber, which had in fact riffed on his own seductive nudes from the late ’90s.)
The popularity of archival Westwood and Gaultier could be chalked up to pop-culture influences—from Bridgerton to Euphoria —or body ideals. “[Their pieces] go perfectly hand in hand with the beauty culture we’re experiencing now: Girls who have BBLs can wear Gaultier because it’s Lycra,” says Valencia. The same goes for Westwood—a hallmark of the Kardashianification of the contemporary female body is a disproportionately small waist. More subversively, these pieces offer a recontextualization of fashion originals for a new era. Collections that were not critically successful at the time now feel freshly relevant. “Westwood was told that she was making clothes for drag queens, and now look where we’re at—drag queens are the ones starting all the trends,” says Valencia. “To think that all of this isn’t interconnected with sexuality and the socio-political aspect of where we’re at is to be blind to the effects that society has on fashion and vice versa.”
The idea of being able to wear art has always been central to the decisions of many a fashion enthusiast, so to have this mirrored in the way that we now collect special pieces as art is a boon. “An Eames chair is like a Westwood corset—it’s not only a mark of your savoir faire but also a status symbol,” says Valencia.
If you, like many of us, missed out on those vintage Dior saddlebags, look no further than your own closet to start your archive. Among the designers Taylor and Valencia are predicting will make it to high-demand status in the future are Iris van Herpen, Simone Rocha, Moschino and Balenciaga, plus a handful of impactful brand collaborations, like those between Fendi and Versace as well as Gucci and Adidas. “The way you buy, even in the current moment, needs to have a notion of longevity,” says Valencia. It’s just one more reason to shop smarter these days.
STYLE ellecanada . com 33
IN FULL BLOOM
Italian actor SABRINA IMPACCIATORE dazzles in the second season of hit HBO series The White Lotus
By
HEN I SPEAK WITH SABRINA IMPACCIATORE , she’s in Los Angeles, more than 10,000 kilometres from her hometown of Rome, promoting the new season of creator Mike White’s Golden Globe-winning megahit The White Lotus. The second iteration of the show, which airs on Crave in Canada, is set at the namesake hotel chain’s Sicilian outpost and features an almost entirely new cast of characters. Impacciatore plays a pivotal role as the hotel manager, Valentina: Terse, confident and seemingly in control, Valentina is in deep conflict, stirred by her attraction to a fellow female employee. As was the case with the show’s first season, a number of storylines swirl around a murder as the characters—including beloved returning cast member Jennifer Coolidge, who took home a Golden Globe for best actress, as well as new additions Aubrey Plaza, Michael Imperioli and F. Murray Abraham—intermingle with one another.
Impacciatore, who at 54 is a seasoned award-winning actor, is pitch-perfect as this endearing and often deadpan character. She recounts how shocked she was by the reaction to the scene-stealing moment when she tells Coolidge’s character— dressed in pink and about to jump on a Vespa—that she looks like Peppa Pig. “It was improvised!” exclaims Impacciatore. “I said that line like that, and now it has become a meme. And people are talking about it and playing with it all over TikTok. It’s fascinating.”
The actor, whose effervescent personality and passion for her craft give her undeniable magnetism, confesses that she didn’t watch her season before everyone else—she saw it for the first time when it aired. “I’m too scared to watch all the episodes,” she says. “But I remember what I felt—what I felt was real. So I hope that the reality from my heart will arrive somewhere [on the screen].” Impacciatore’s reluctance is largely due to nerves, but it’s also related to her broader in-the-now life philosophy. “I’m really happy that I’m enjoying this moment here and now,” she says. “I only live for the current moment, so I have to make it the best moment. I don’t believe in future plans. But I do believe in dreams.”
Landing a lead role on a hit American series was indeed a dream come true for the actor. But it was one she had to actively pursue, and she now calls it “a very long adventure.” The production company had searched far and wide without
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JOANNA FOX
“I only live for the current moment, so I have to make it the best moment. I don’t believe in future plans. But I do believe in dreams.”
W
success to find the right person to play Valentina. Impacciatore was shooting a project in northern Italy when her agent told her that the White Lotus producers wanted her to audition and that she needed to send in a self-tape straight away. In a frenzy, she watched the first season of the show for the first time that night. “I didn’t sleep because I watched all the episodes,” says Impacciatore. “It was like eating chips—I couldn’t get enough. I was enlightened. I thought, ‘If this is the project, I have to get this role.’”
After spending 10 hours doing countless takes, which were filmed by her brother, Impacciatore sent the tape to her agent. A few days later, she got word that White wanted to meet her in person. When she finally got to audition, White told her that she could only do three takes of the scene she was performing. “I gave all my heart—I gave everything I could,” she recalls. “And I remember that he was laughing so much [but] was also moved.” Although White told her that the direction she took the character in was very interesting—different from what he’d expected—and he would love to explore it, Impacciatore did not get her hopes up. “Then I got this call that I will never forget,” she says. “And I can say without a doubt that it was my highest professional joy.”
Along with being captivating to watch thanks to her character’s slow-burning presence, Impacciatore truly embodies the sassy hotel manager—a tall order considering Murray Barlett’s unforgettable performance in the role in the first season. “His character was explosive, and he is a genius as an actor,” she
says. “When I read [the script], I loved Valentina right away, but I knew this was going to be a hard job because [she] is very implosive. And she’s very hidden. It’s difficult because she has to keep things inside. I felt her conflict deeply, and I made this conflict mine.”
Working with White was also a very positive and moving experience for Impacciatore as he was fully invested in the show—he not only created the characters but also wrote and directed all the episodes. His profound understanding of the overall story helped him work with Impacciatore as she explored all the sides of Valentina. “Mike is a genius,” she says. “And I’m not exaggerating. He can understand every single character very deeply—there’s this lightness and this darkness at the same time, and they work together. It’s cathartic.” As for the other cast members, Impacciatore can barely contain her enthusiasm, especially when I ask about working with Coolidge. “Jennifer is a goddess!” she exclaims. “I am crazy in love with her.”
For now, Impacciatore is taking the time to simply enjoy the afterglow of the show and, true to her nature, is not planning ahead. The White Lotus has been such an important part of her career, putting her smack dab in the middle of the Hollywood map, so she’s excited to see what’s ahead. “What comes next is the question,” she says smiling. “But [I believe the answer] comes down to destiny. [For now], it’s just fantastic to imagine that I am related to the world because this show is everywhere. It’s a beautiful feeling.”
ellecanada . com 35 PHOTOGRAPHY, FABIO LOVINO (S.
&
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PROFILE
IMPACCIATORE)
COURTESY OF CRAVE
THE WHITE LOTUS
SABRINA IMPACCIATORE IN THE SECOND SEASON OF THE WHITE LOTUS
FOR the LOVE of FASHION
Costume designer PATRICIA FIELD’s autobiography is an audacious style odyssey.
By WENDY KAUR
DAYS BEFORE MY CONVERSATION with Patricia Field about her new memoir, Pat in the City, the costume designer, who’s famed for her sartorial signature on Sex and the City and The Devil Wears Prada, had just finished styling Canadian actor Kim Cattrall for her latest project. “I have a long-standing relationship with Kim,” she says via Zoom from her home in New York. “We met on SATC. Kim called me because she’s doing a [Netflix] series in Toronto called Glamorous [in which] she plays a retired model who owns a cosmetics
company.” At the time, Field had just flown in from working on the wardrobe for Emily in Paris. “I felt like I needed to take a breath, so Kim and I would FaceTime instead of having me go to Toronto. She lives in New York, so she would also come to the city when she wasn’t on camera for a day or two. It was a great experience. I love her.”
The 81-year-old icon’s accolades aren’t just for her work in film and television, though. For 50 years, Field’s eponymous New York boutique—initially on Washington Place with later incarnations on Eighth Street, West Broadway and Bowery Street until she closed in 2016—was hailed as a destination for avant-garde style. In the ’80s, the store was the place to put together a look for landmark nighttime haunts such as Studio 54, Paradise Garage and Boy Bar. When she closed up shop almost seven years ago, Field felt like many people wanted to know her personal story.
Pat in the City —a play on the name of the sexy HBO series that solidified Field’s status as a Hollywood costume designer—is filled with engaging anecdotes about her glamorous gigs for the big and small screens as well as endless personal stories, including some about growing up around a group of feisty Greek women, hanging out with artists like Andy Warhol and her long friendship with designer Halston. Amusing tidbits include the time the late John F. Kennedy Jr. was kicked out of her shop for a less-than-charming comment and the time she drove to New Jersey to apologize to Beyoncé. The downtown shop served as a larger-than-life character in its own right: From the time it opened, in the ’60s, it was a safe space for trans people to express themselves and a platform for emerging designers and other arbiters of taste.
When Field was a child, her fashion persona was shaped by her hard-working and fiercely independent Greek mother. “My mother’s [dry-cleaning] business was on the Upper East Side, and she would buy me cashmere sweaters from Bloomingdale’s and Madison Avenue—her own style was very tailored and Sears, Roebuck,” she says with a laugh. But Field felt more at home in the head-to-toe cowgirl ensemble gifted to her by her vivacious aunts, who knew how much she adored Roy Rogers and the Lone Ranger. The long-sleeved Western shirt
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had smile-shaped breast pockets and a pointed collar, and it came with a fringed suede bolero vest and matching miniskirt. The outfit was completed with a pair of classic square-toed soft-leather cowboy boots. “I never took it off,” writes Field in the book. “Even at five years old, I already understood that fashion and costume were one and the same.”
Although she indulged her mother’s penchant for dressing her in the structured style of the ’50s, by the time the space-age ’60s struck, Field—then attending New York University—was living by her own fashion rules. She kicked her love of costume themes up a notch with futuristic looks introduced by designers like Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges: White leather go-go boots and silver astronaut-like accessories became her go-tos, as did helmet-style hats and goggle sunglasses. Yet it never dawned on Field to study business or fashion because these two disciplines were part and parcel of her personality. Instead, she took philosophy courses and worked in retail, where she stood out for her fashion sense and her initiative on product placement.
Field opened her first boutique in 1966 with her then girlfriend, Jo Ann, on the NYU campus and called it Pants Pub because it resembled an Irish bar. She wanted a hip and happening place that catered to trendy women and reflected what she calls her “lifelong love affair with pants.” She felt that her two New York City retail jobs out of college—at discount department store Alexander’s and then as an assistant buyer at Petrie Stores—gave her the confidence and momentum to go her own way and be the one in charge. Still, “it was one thing to buy thousands of blouses for 400 stores across the Midwest and another to go into a factory for half a dozen pants to stock a shoebox of a store,” she writes.
Five years after Pants Pub opened, Field felt that it had outgrown its physical space as well as its name—and her namesake store was born on Eighth Street in 1971. The makeover included a move away from the mod look of the ’60s in favour of wares that were decidedly “decadent and devious.” She pushed past the hippie trend and looked to disco instead and was taken with New York designer Alice Blaine’s pleated highwaisted gabardine trousers. Because the flashy era encouraged women to invest more in their wardrobes, shopping trips to Paris compelled Field to buy more designer merchandise. On other European excursions, she sourced not only clothes but also unusual accessories and cosmetics from brands such as Kryolan, a German theatrical-makeup line that couldn’t be found anywhere in the city except at Patricia Field. “We had a matte-red lip colour from Shiseido made from real crushed flower petals,” she writes. “You had to dip your brush in the water and paint the wax-based pigment onto your lip. Patricia Field became part of a small constellation of places pushing the boundaries of fashion.”
The store also began to attract a new class of clientele: Singersongwriter Patti Smith was a regular and purchased outfits there for her performances. As the business grew, Field made it her mandate to nurture the talent of young designers. She carried the creations of up-and-comers like Carmel JohnsonSchmidt, Millie Davis and Isabel Toledo. She bought Toledo’s very first collection—which had been presented at nightclub
Danceteria in 1984—for her shop, and 25 years later, Toledo would go on to design the yellow inauguration dress worn by former First Lady Michelle Obama. “Patricia Field was a curated buffet of many different looks at many different prices,” writes Field. As the store became famous, stars like Madonna and Foxy Brown would come in. “[The clientele] developed in an exciting and artistic way,” she says.
Field stepped into costume design in the mid-’80s on the suggestion of Candy Pratts Price, who was the fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar at the time. Prior to working in editorial, Pratts Price had been a window dresser for French luxury shoe brand Charles Jourdan and later for Bloomingdale’s. When she was approached by Universal Studios about a psychothriller, Lady Beware —which centred on a window dresser for a Pittsburgh department store—because the film’s director, Karen Arthur, was looking for a costume designer, Pratts Price suggested Field. The gig led to Field styling a string of films, including Crime Story and 1995 romcom Miami Rhapsody, which starred none other than Sarah Jessica Parker. The two instantly hit it off over their compatible styles. “For that film, she wanted to wear the tight, skinny T-shirts that hit right at the waistline and were all the rage in the ’90s,” recalls Field. Even though the film’s director, David Frankel, didn’t go for the idea at first, Parker stood firm and won him over.
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FIELD (CENTRE) AT BOY BAR, NEW YORK CITY, 1992 PHOTOGRAPHY, TINA PAUL (RIGHT)
It was Parker who was responsible for getting Field the role of costume designer on SATC. The cast weren’t happy with the one they had, and Parker recommended Field to showrunner Darren Star. “I brought in this book [about] Bettie Page,” says Field, referring to the 1950s pin-up model. “I told him not to take it literally but that it was an example of what I found interesting from the standpoint of a woman’s relationship with her sexuality. I wanted to expose him to the idea for the show, and I think he understood what I was saying.”
The now iconic white tiered tulle skirt she found in a five-dollar bin at a midtown fashion showroom for the opening sequence was another story. “Darren is a businessman and a man of many talents, but he isn’t a fashionista,” says Field. “He didn’t get it.” Parker fell in love with the idea of pairing the tutu with a feminine take on a Marlon Brando-style tank top. “She understood it. She got the fashion, and it was a great relationship.” Star eventually saw the point Field was trying to make: The tutu emphasized Carrie Bradshaw as the modern epitome of the princess syndrome.
Even though Cattrall’s character was conceived of as the “sex girl,” Field didn’t want her style to embody a stereotype. Instead, she saw Samantha Jones as more of a designer seductress. Creations by Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo—the designer who influenced the looks of a number of ’90s labels, like Calvin Klein and Donna Karan—fit the bill for being “body conscious and elegant.” She took Cattrall on a field trip to Allan & Suzi—a legendary designer-consignment store that had a large Sant’ Angelo collection—as a way to hone in on the character’s image and bond with Cattrall at the same time. Field felt that Samantha’s wit was a reflection of Cattrall herself. “I would go into her dressing room and on her TV would be all of these old-time movie stars like Mae West—the funny ones,” she says. “They inspired her.”
When Field reached out to luxury labels to dress the show’s first season, they gave her the brush-off. “It was a brand-new show and unknown,” she says. By the second season, she noticed a seismic shift. Rome-based fashion house Fendi had introduced the “Baguette” bag as part of its fall collection, and Field saw it as a potential prop with purpose. The economy-size shoulder bag was akin to a clutch: It could carry the bare necessities and still be slung over the shoulder so that one’s hands were free to light a cigarette or hail a cab—two things Carrie Bradshaw did on a regular basis. To Field’s surprise, Fendi told her that she could have her pick of the many variations of the bag. Other labels followed suit. “Once the show was on a roll, everything changed.”
After the meteoric rise of SATC, part of Field wondered if her costume career would ever see the same success again. But the fashion fates came calling—this time for a film called The Devil Wears Prada. “When I heard it was with Meryl Streep, I said ‘I’m there,’” she recalls with amusement. “I had long admired her. I knew I could have fun with her for the role.” Field loved the idea from Streep’s team that her hair be white for the film, but the higher-ups automatically associated the look with old age. “In the end, I said to Meryl that she had to go in there and tell them [what she wanted]. She took care of it.”
Now, 17 years later, Field is still breaking fashion rules. When she signed on to do Emily in Paris, she insisted that Lily Collins’ character wear hats despite frustration from the lighting team.
“I love hats, but the problem with them in film and TV is that they block the lighting and cast a shadow on the face,” she says. A believer that hats are the punctuation of an outfit, Field made friends with the show’s director of photography and explained her philosophy so that she could keep them front and centre.
After closing her famous store, Field was still constantly coming across so much unique new talent, and she felt the need to exhibit it all. In 2018, she opened the Patricia Field ArtFashion Gallery, where she continues to sell the creations of cutting-edge designers. The space has a focus on wearable art that is made to order, handcrafted by a select group of artists and curated by Field. The art boutique is also an ode to nostalgic pieces from her past. “To this day, the ‘Carrie’ necklace is the top-selling item in my gallery, followed by tutus,” she says, referring to the nameplate necklace she originally had made for Parker’s SATC character at a little jewellery shop on Canal Street.
When it comes to acknowledging her own identity, it took Field a long time to see herself as an artist. While she had always been drawn to artistic types, she had never thought the label applied to her. “I always considered myself more of a businesswoman,” she says. Not one to entertain passing fads, Field has preferred to live in what she calls “the intellectual world of fashion.” Her tag line? “I don’t sell fashion. I sell ideas.”
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“I DON’T SELL FASHION. I SELL IDEAS.”
BOOKS
FIELD AT THE ARTFASHION RUNWAY SHOW AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK, 2019
PHOTOGRAPHY,
TINA PAUL
“I WAS A CLOSET THEATRE KID,” says Sunita Mani. Growing up in small-town Tennessee, the actor-comedian—who’s had roles in critically acclaimed Netflix wrestling series Glow and, more recently, the Apple TV+ holiday musical Spirited opposite Ryan Reynolds and Will Ferrell—felt like she had to be focused on academics. But in between school and classical Indian music and dance lessons, Mani harboured fantasies of performing onstage. And then she swerved. After high school, she decided to go to a liberal-arts college in Boston; she majored in creative writing, found herself embedded in the campus’ flourishing improv scene and ended up trying, well, everything. “I’ve been running into different rooms my whole life,” she says of her varied interests. “But I always wanted to keep [art] close to me.” And that plurality is what has defined her career, from starting a comedy dance troupe, Cocoon Central Dance Team, with friends (which landed them roles in the viral “Turn Down for What” music video) to an unexpected acting break in twisty thriller Mr. Robot to her role as the Ghost of Christmas Past—and love interest of Reynolds’ character—in Spirited.
DANCING SHOES “I think I’ve always wanted to do a musical. [I can picture] my eight-year-old self, wide-eyed and just hoping I’d get to leave my small town, go to New York and be on Broadway someday. That childhood aspiration and any actual steps that got me here are kind of separate. But being in rehearsals and training with a vocal coach, I was clinging to that eight-year-old. I feel like I’ve always been a bit multigenre and multi-faceted with performance, so it was a dream come true to get to do all these things, like singing and dancing, at once.”
Sunita Mani
This comedy star is fearless when it comes to her craft.
By PATRICIA KAROUNOS
CANADIAN CHARM “Ryan Reynolds is such a funny, charming guy. I was nervous [to work with him], but he’s so supportive and really kind. It was delicious to improvise with him [and create] a romantic tension that was also super awkward. It was a lot of fun—in my mind, anyway. [Laughs] I was just really happy I didn’t pass out and could actually stand on my two feet [during our scenes] and just go for it.”
STAYING FOCUSED “A lot of us in the New York comedy scene worked waitressing shifts or day jobs and then performed four or five nights a week, and I thought I was going to do that forever. There was definitely a point where I questioned if I was going to make it. I considered going back to school, but my soul sank [at the thought]. I really couldn’t do it. And that pushed me harder. But I also feel so lucky—I got an agent and realized that all of [my hard work] was building toward something I couldn’t yet see.”
STACKED RESUMÉ “I learned so many life lessons on Glow I constantly refer back to that period [to access] confidence and strength of mind to get through difficult times. That show was such a gamut of challenges. I took away a sense of creative control, and I learned to stick to my guns and stand up for myself. Learning how to wrestle requires you to connect with your inner child—to know that if you fall, you can get back up. It was a fun playground, and I try to take that sense of fearlessness with me to other jobs.”
CREATIVE FREEDOM “I’m working on my own show, and I’ve been really challenging myself to be vulnerable and radically honest in order to get to the specific experience that is my truth. It’s scary to put yourself out there, but hopefully it speaks to a lot of people. I feel like people don’t know what to do with me in this industry—I’ve had some amazing roles, and I’m so grateful for what I’ve gotten to do, but I know there’s more in me. I used to tell myself, ‘It’s not going to happen unless you make it happen.’ I want to create a world and a multi-dimensional character as I crave to see them.”
DEBUT ellecanada . com 39 PHOTOGRAPHY, TOMMY AGRIODIMAS; HAIRSTYLIST, KARLA SERRANO (SAINT LUKE ARTISTS); MAKEUP ARTIST, ANDREA TILLER (M A C COSMETICS); STYLIST, SARAH TOOLEY (THE WALL GROUP); STYLIST’S ASSISTANT, CARLEE PRINCELL; MANI IS WEARING A TOP FROM THE FRANKIE SHOP AND EARRINGS FROM COMPLETEDWORKS
MAKING PLANS
After 25 years in the game, Canadian actor KARINE VANASSE is just getting warmed up.
By CAMILLE CARDIN-GOYER
KARINE VANASSE HAS A WAY OF lighting up any room she finds herself in—even if that “room” is a Zoom call. As soon as she joins our online meeting—bundled up in a brown Rudsak puffer, her hair pulled back in a runway-perfect slick pony—it feels like I’m reconnecting with an old friend. Though it’s a grey, snowy winter day and she’s recovering from a bad cold, Vanasse still radiates warmth. The award-winning actor—who is best known for her roles in Pan Am, Revenge and Cardinal and has starred in more than 20 movies and a dozen shows in both English and French—has become a familiar onscreen face. She recently finished shooting the English-language
adaptation of the highly acclaimed 2017 Québécois time-travel drama Plan B; this new version co-stars Patrick J. Adams (of Suits fame) and was produced by Montreal-based KOTV Productions. Premiering on February 27 on CBC and CBC Gem, the high-intensity series follows Philip (Adams) on a desperate and tireless quest to save his failing relationship with his lover, Evelyn (Vanasse), as well as his law firm and his dysfunctional family through time travel. It doesn’t take long for him to find out that playing with timelines never goes according to plan. We spoke to Vanasse about the new series, working closely with Adams and what’s at the top of her career bucket list.
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WHAT APPEALED TO YOU ABOUT THE ROLE OF EVELYN? “I watched the original series and remembered it enough to want to see how it would be presented years later—how characters and specific situations that had previously been brought to life would be adapted to fit present-day circumstances. The notion of control is pretty much the story’s backbone. When Philip travels back in time, he starts wanting to control every situation and learns the hard way that that’s just not how life goes. That feels like a relevant topic in today’s [climate]. It’s only been six years [since the original show aired], but we’ve come a long way in terms of identifying toxic-relationship signs and exposing certain behaviours.”
WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING WITH ADAMS, ON- AND OFFCAMERA? “Because of the story’s reverse chronology, one minute we would be shooting a scene in which Phil and Ev are fighting, and the next we’d be in one where they’re happy and intimate, so we had to be really present and focused. It was challenging. We must have explored every single emotion on the spectrum over the course of the fourmonth shoot. There is a great deal of vulnerability involved in acting, and I felt safe around Patrick. He would check on me, ask how I was feeling and make sure things went smoothly. He doesn’t give in to the pressure and tension that can build on-set, so he definitely helped me stay grounded. One of the hardest things about acting—and it’s something that makes me love what I do—is the necessity of understanding and decoding the person you’re shooting with beyond their character. That’s what allows you to work together in finding ways to adapt and react under pressure.”
WHAT’S THE SHOW’S GREATEST LIFE LESSON? “That it’s the little things in life that add up. Pay attention to details, small
behaviours and intentions. When you get to a relationship’s breaking point and reflect back, the trigger can often be found in small things that you paid little attention to. It’s an accumulation of decisions, moments of absence, suppressed feelings and thoughts. I think the key is to have the difficult conversations, listen to each other, recognize your partner’s feelings as well as your own, be truly present and not try to control everything. If I were given the opportunity to go back and change something that happened in my life, I wouldn’t. Life, no matter how much you try to control it, always has a way of throwing a curveball at you.”
SPEAKING OF LIVING AND LEARNING, WHAT’S THE CAREER GOAL THAT RANKS HIGHEST ON YOUR BUCKET LIST? “I want to work with Sarah Polley, whether it’s by securing a role in one of her projects, being an extra or even working craft services. I’m still processing the disappointment of not figuring out a way to be involved in Women Talking. I read an article about how Polley took a stance against sexism in the film industry by breaking the existing model—one that isn’t conducive to female actors and having families—and creating a work environment that’s more inclusive. That’s beautiful, and it’s how I aspire to work—that’s how to make an impact that goes well beyond a project.”
WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR ASPIRATIONS FOR 2023? “To slow down! To find stillness and be more alert and open to everything and everyone that comes my way. I want to cultivate the traveller’s mindset in my daily life. Whether I’m forest bathing, starting my day with a three-minute face massage or working, I want to find that inner space that allows me to be a better person.”
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PROFILE
PHOTOGRAPHY, GAËLLE LE ROYER
“LIFE, NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU TRY TO CONTROL IT, ALWAYS HAS A WAY OF THROWING A CURVEBALL AT YOU.”
ROMANCING the TROPES
These romance novels captivate with winning formulas, from fake dating to enemies turned lovers.
By MISHAL CAZMI
ASIDE FROM THE CERTAINTY OF A HAPPILY EVER AFTER, one of the joys of reading romance novels is the expectation—and anticipation—of the familiar, instantly recognizable tropes that have become a hallmark of the genre. Secondchance romance? Check. Forced proximity? Yes, please. Opposites attracting? Absolutely. They might seem like predictable plot devices, but in the hands of a skilled writer, these tried-and-true recipes draw the reader in and keep them turning those pages. The latest round of contemporary-romance novels promises plenty of pining, swooning and everything in between—all wrapped up in our favourite tropes.
ENEMIES TURNED LOVERS
JASMINE AND JAKE ROCK THE BOAT
BY SONYA LALLI (APRIL 18)
Jasmine Randhawa finds herself suddenly single and third-wheeling on her parents’ cruise vacation to Alaska. Just when things couldn’t get any worse, she realizes that not only is she trapped on a seniors cruise but the only person remotely close to her age is an arrogant acquaintance, Jake Dhillon. This is Vancouver-based Sonya Lalli’s fifth contemporary-romance offering.
FORCED PROXIMITY
GEORGIE, ALL ALONG
BY KATE CLAYBORN (JANUARY 24)
This tender and heartfelt romance from Love Lettering author Kate Clayborn follows Georgie Mulcahy, who goes back to her hometown after losing her job. There, she discovers a “friendfic” diary she wrote in high school, which becomes the key to getting her life back in order. Her only roadblock? Former bad boy and temporary roommate Levi Fanning, who offers to help her on her quest.
FAKE DATING
YOURS TRULY
BY ABBY JIMENEZ (APRIL 11)
After a divorce and with a career that seems to be headed in the same disastrous direction as her love life, the last thing Dr. Briana Ortiz needs is for Dr. Jacob Maddox to show up vying for the job she wants. But then he surprises her by becoming her brother’s kidney donor, so when he calls in a favour of his own, Briana just can’t refuse. Abby Jimenez once again flexes her ability to tackle big feelings and sensitive topics in this slow-burn romance.
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SECOND-CHANCE ROMANCE
THE YEAR OF CECILY BY
LISA LIN (JANUARY 17)
San Francisco attorney Cecily Chang is determined to live her best life after making her Lunar New Year resolutions—which she plans to put into practice right after her trip home to Brooklyn, N.Y. She knows what to expect from her chaotic family, but what she doesn’t anticipate is running into Jeffrey Lee, the man who broke her heart 10 years earlier. Jeffrey sees his encounter with Cecily as a sign and is determined to win her back. Lisa Lin’s debut novel is the first in a trilogy featuring heroines set in Brooklyn’s Sunset Park.
MISTAKEN IDENTITY
THE NEIGHBOR FAVOR
BY KRISTINA FOREST (FEBRUARY 28)
Lily Greene works in the non-fiction division of a publishing house but dreams of becoming an editor of children’s books. She finds solace in corresponding with her favourite fantasy author until he ghosts her. Months later, Lily needs a date to her sister’s wedding and enlists the help of her hot new neighbour, Nick Brown, who, unbeknownst to her, happens to be the same guy who jilted her. Kristina Forest’s winsome romcom is a book lover’s delight.
OPPOSITES ATTRACT
SECRETLY YOURS
BY TESSA BAILEY (FEBRUARY 7)
Fans of BookTok favourite Tessa Bailey will love her latest sizzler, which turns up the heat in Napa Valley. When she was 14, Hallie Welch almost kissed Julian Vos in his family’s vineyard. Years later, Julian, now a professor, returns home to work on his novel. When Hallie is hired to revamp the gardens on his family’s estate, the two end up spending a lot more time together than they ever anticipated.
FRIENDS TO LOVERS
BEHIND THE SCENES
BY KARELIA STETZ-WATERS (JANUARY 31)
Rose is a successful business consultant with a secret side hustle creating mindfulness videos, and Ash is a filmmaker who’s been struggling to make it in Hollywood. Ash finally has a shot at making her movie dreams a reality, with the help of an important producer, and wants Rose’s business expertise to get her film financed—as long as they don’t mix business with pleasure. Karelia Stetz-Waters’ sapphic romance crackles with witty banter and sizzling chemistry.
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ON the
RECORD
PAMELA ANDERSON tells her side of a media-frenzied story in her autobiography and a new Netflix documentary.
By KELLY BOUTSALIS
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ANDERSON IN LOS ANGELES IN THE 1990S
ANDERSON IN VANCOUVER, 1989
SCROLLING THROUGH MY MEMORIES of late-’80s and ’90s pop culture, I keep hitting upon one particular outsized icon: Pamela Anderson. Whether she was slow-motion running on a beach in her red Baywatch bathing suit or sporting a giant fluffy pink hat and white corset at the 1999 MTV Video Music Awards alongside then husband Tommy Lee, the world was endlessly fascinated by her. Those two visuals largely sum up how we saw her: as a gorgeous blonde who was in a soapy TV series and married to a world-famous rock star. Theirs was a relationship that was widely covered in the tabloids, especially after a stolen home video was released without their consent.
Pamela, a Love Story—the raw and honest Netflix documentary from Emmy-nominated director Ryan White—sends the loudand-clear message that there is much more to Anderson than her outward image. Her memoir, Love, Pamela, which details her family life and rise to celebrity and has her own poetry sprinkled throughout, hit shelves at the end of January too.
Together, the documentary and the memoir open a window into what life has been like for the now 55-year-old, starting with her origins in Ladysmith, B.C., and including the Canadian football game at which she was pulled from the crowd and brought onto the field. In that pivotal moment, her image was displayed on the Jumbotron and sent out to Mondaynight-football viewers across the country, which eventually led to appearances in Playboy, a starring role in Baywatch and all-around fame. That wild ride hasn’t made her any less personable, though.
“Our moms have the same name!” I tell her—admittedly a little cringingly—at the start of our phone call, unable to hold back my fangirl gushing. My maiden name is Anderson, and both of our moms are Carols. She takes my random fun fact in stride and tells me that her family’s real last name is Finnish but her grandfather changed it to Anderson when they came to Canada. It’s mid-December, and Anderson is in Miami, where she’s recording the audio version of her memoir before heading back home to Vancouver Island. “I’m doing my audiobook right now, and it’s harder to say it out loud,” she says. “I think I articulate myself better when I write.”
While I thought I would have only one thing in common with the actor, it turns out that Anderson, like me, is part of the voracious-reader-since-childhood club. Book and art mentions abound in her memoir, from Carl Jung’s Memories, Dreams, Reflections, which she borrowed from the local library, to the poetry of Emily Dickinson, which she devoured while living in Saint-Tropez. Books would transport her away from the house where a female babysitter had molested her or help her escape the memory of being raped by an acquaintance when she was 12—experiences that she revealed in 2014. “[Reading was] how I broke through a lot of my early trauma,” she says. “I just kept filling myself with things I love—art and poetry. These things were key to how I managed it all.”
Though it seems like her documentary and autobiography are being released in response to the Hulu Pam & Tommy series—which she does comment on in the documentary—the truth is that both had been in the works for the past two years and were largely initiated by Anderson’s sons, Brandon Thomas Lee and Dylan Jagger Lee, now both in their mid-20s. These works are as much for them as they are for her, and Brandon is at the helm as a producer of Pamela, a Love Story. “I don’t like to hold anything back, and hopefully [the film and book] add a little bit of humanness behind the cartoon image that I somehow became,” she says. “I think that’s really important to my boys and my family, who have been by my side and have seen the tears, the hard times and the good times.”
Both the book and the doc explore some of those hardships, including the sexual assaults, the witnessing of domestic abuse in her childhood home and the heartbreaks that led to divorces, which have been reported on endlessly. Another difficult topic is the infamous sex tape—which she prefers to call the “stolen tape”—that was taken from her and Lee’s home, spliced together with other footage from their home videos and capitalized on by others. But Anderson gets to share about lesser-known cherished times in her life too, like learning how to tango from an 80-year-old expert in Buenos Aires and getting kicked out
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PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF NETFLIX
ANDERSON WITH HER SON BRANDON, 1999
of Las Vegas with her best friend, fashion photographer David LaChapelle, during her bachelorette party before marrying Kid Rock. Then there are the lovely quiet moments, like making waffles for her sons and their friends in Malibu.
For the documentary, she pulled from her archive of home videos and a lifetime of diaries, even sharing excerpts from some of them. However, she declined to read anything from her journals for the film; instead, an actor voices her words. I understand the decision. The thought of taking deeply personal notes that were written for an audience of one and reading them in a very public way makes me cringe much more than trying to connect with a world-famous actor-model-writer in the first few minutes of a phone interview.
The memoir was written completely by her without the help of a ghost writer, she says. She also tells me that she fought tooth and nail to get approval from her publisher to weave in her poetry and stream-of-consciousness-style prose. I ask if she read the diaries while writing Love, Pamela to help jog her memory. As it turns out, she didn’t. “I wanted to write my book from where I’m sitting right now,” she says. “After all these years, I can look back and see the patterns—the way I muscled my way through things and how I’ve been able to persevere through hardship and heartbreak.”
In the book, Anderson shares details that contextualize her career, which, she writes, went from zero to 100 after that BC Lions football game. Beer company Labatt put her in a commercial and on a poster after seeing her on the Jumbotron, and shortly after, her phone rang and Playboy was on the line, offering to fly her to L.A. for a test shoot for its October 1989 cover. She describes how Marilyn Grabowski, the magazine’s photo editor, ushered her into her new L.A. world, while her mom encouraged her to live a new life and not look back.
I ask her if she feels like the time is right to share her side of the story, given that women like Monica Lewinsky and Britney Spears are now being seen through a more feminist
and empathetic lens. She carefully agrees that now is a different time, which is a good thing. But it sounds like the wounds from those times are far from healed. “I’ve always said [you should have] grace and dignity, hold your head high and keep moving forward,” she says. “It made me stronger, but [the stolen tape] was a hard time for me—it affected my relationship and my career, and I don’t think I ever recovered.”
Anderson sees the book and documentary as forms of therapy—ways to revisit different stages of her life, from childhood to the present day. They’re also opportunities to self-examine her inability to be alone. She’s currently working on that last part, having filed for divorce from her fourth husband in early 2022. While the processes of writing and filming were therapeutic for Anderson, the end results are celebrations of an imperfect person living an imperfect life. “I’m doing pretty good,” she says. “My kids are grown, and they’re wonderful, and I think that really says a lot. People [often] ask me ‘How did you do it?’ And I just have to start from the beginning. I can’t explain unless I tell you my whole story.”
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ANDERSON WITH HER SON DYLAN, 1998
ANDERSON WITH HER DOG STAR IN THE 1990S PROFILE
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF NETFLIX
OUR NATIONAL PASTIME’S COSTLY SECRETS
Sexual-assault accusations brought against HOCKEY CANADA players last spring are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to serious issues in an organization gone wrong.
By CAITLIN STALL-PAQUET
ON THE MORNING OF MAY 26 LAST YEAR , Hanna Bunton—a Team Canada gold medallist and forward for the Professional Women’s Hockey Players Association (PWHPA)—was working with the under-18 team of young women she managed when she got a notification to hop on an emergency call with her employer, Hockey Canada. The publicization of a settlement with a woman (who was later identified by the initials E.M.) who’d sued Hockey Canada and eight of its players, some of whom were on the world junior team, for $3.5 million was about to hit. The complainant had publicly stated that in 2018, following a Hockey Canada event, she’d been the victim of a gang rape in a London, Ont., hotel room while very intoxicated. Bunton describes her initial feelings upon hearing this news as a mix of shock, sadness and disappointment. Her shock wasn’t so much in reaction to the fact that it had occurred but more about Hockey Canada’s handling of the allegations. “It’s a hard pill to swallow when something this horrific happens in an organization to which you have dedicated not only your hockey career growing up but also your professional career,” she says.
Bunton’s lack of surprise at the event itself highlights a despondency that many athletes, fans and those who follow the news may also feel when it comes to this sort of heinous behaviour. It also points to the fact that something is deeply broken within the hockey world and perhaps sports culture in general. With this particular scandal, the initial announcement
was just the beginning. Each subsequent bit of information that came to light—how the case had been closed in 2019 without any criminal charges being brought, that the complainant was under an NDA (non-disclosure agreement) that prevented her from speaking about the matter publicly and protected the accused players, how Hockey Canada was made aware of the incident and failed to sanction the players and that the National Equity Fund, which is made up of registration fees, was used to pay for other alleged sexual-misconduct settlements—added a fresh layer of dirt to Hockey Canada’s name.
Many parents, supporters and corporations have since rightfully questioned whether the organization should still be a source of national pride. Last summer, waves in this oceanic scandal led financial backers to drop like flies. Canadian Tire, Telus, Bauer and Tim Hortons—the epitome of Canadian-ness, which was founded by an NHL hockey player who himself was once in the junior league—are a few of the brands that opted out of supporting Hockey Canada to varying degrees for its 2022-2023 season. Around that time, Pascale St-Onge, the federal minister of sport, announced a pause in the government’s funding of the organization, stating, “This is about changing a deeply entrenched culture; it’s not about simple band-aid solutions.” The moment of reckoning was a long time coming, as the events of 2018 were far from anomalous within the hockey world. Another investigation came to light in July, this time into a 2003 assault in Halifax when half a dozen players recorded themselves having sex with a naked and unresponsive woman.
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HANNA BUNTON PHOTOGRAPHY, TED BELTON
Though the chair of Hockey Canada’s board, Michael Brind’Amour, stepped down and was replaced with former player Andrea Skinner last August, his feet were initially the only ones being held to this raging fire. To Bunton, changing this culture will require a fresh start at Hockey Canada. “The definition of insanity is when you do the same thing over and over again and expect to see change,” says the coach and player, who supported a call for the resignation of Hockey Canada CEO Scott Smith. Instead of resigning, however, Smith presented the women’s team with gold medals after they won against the United States in September—a move that could be described as tone-deaf at best.
Skinner defended the organization’s reputation at an October standing committee on Canadian heritage in Ottawa that same month. Laura Robinson, journalist and author of the 1998 book Crossing the Line: Violence and Sexual Assault in Canada’s National Sport, listened to her responses during that questioning very closely. “She said at some point that the 2018 Junior Hockey team allegations were the first time she’d ever heard of this [type of behaviour in the organization],” says Robinson. “Really?…Where has she been? If she doesn’t know that this is cultural and that it has gone on for decades, she should not be the chair of Hockey Canada.”
As a former national-team cyclist, Robinson saw enough normalized relationships between adult male coaches and teen girls that she vowed to do something about it. She went on to become the first Canadian journalist to address sexual abuse in sports, writing about it in 1992 for the Toronto Star. Two days after the October hearing, Hockey Québec stated that it would stop transferring funds to its national counterpart, and Hockey Ontario quickly followed suit. Less than a week later, Skinner resigned. On October 11, after in-depth scrutiny, Smith and the entire Hockey Canada board stepped down. A new board was elected this past December, with retired judge Hugh L. Fraser as the organization’s new chair.
However, expecting that sweeping out the power holders would negate the need to re-examine the sport is not realistic. Robinson defines hockey in this country as “a total institution,” which is an idea formulated by sociologist Erving Goffman to describe a closed organization with a built-in social system in which almost all aspects of the residents’ lives are controlled, like in prisons or boarding schools. Another sociology professor, Steven Ortiz, added to this concept and called it the “mobile total institution.” Hockey players exemplify this concept since they carry around the weight of privilege bestowed upon them as they travel from town to town, protected by the establishment they represent.
According to Robinson, who has been investigating this sort of violence for 30 years, it’s an inherent part of hockey culture. “What’s really important to know about the gang
sexual assaults is that [this is] part of the bonding between the players,” she says. “The sexual relationship is actually between the players, and they use the female body like they would an ice rink to perform violent acts for each other.” With sexual assault lurking in the dark corners of seemingly every institution—permeating the military, the church and schools alike—it’s obviously not just a hockey problem. “It exists where there’s a real hierarchy of patriarchal power,” says Robinson. The particularity of hockey, though, is what the sport has come to mean for countless Canadians—how it’s a stand-in of sorts for religion. “Once we became more secularized, we took that promise of the young male from the religious setting of the church [and] simply transferred it into the arena,” argues Robinson. “So there was still this young male who was supposed to be a saviour. It’s not heaven you’re going to—it’s heaven at the hockey rink for two hours.”
Bunton wants what’s deemed acceptable for these idolized players to say and do to change, starting from the time they first lace up their skates. She saw the necessity for this shift when she worked with a boys’ hockey team at a camp last summer and found herself reprimanding the players for using words like “gay” as an insult. She believes this sort of attitude in 10-yearolds has the potential to escalate into more nefarious behaviour if left unchecked. “We [cannot] tolerate anything—bullying, racism or any sort of hazing, misconduct or mistreatment of anyone—from [the time they are] a young age,” says Bunton about the future of the sport to which she has dedicated her career since 2013, when she first played for Team Canada.
Vigilance is necessary at multiple levels too, especially as the organization tries to rebuild. “We’ve seen it with Hockey Canada, and I’ve seen it with many, many other organizations: a culture of entitlement that says ‘We’re going to take care of it; don’t you worry your pretty little heads about it,’” says Julie Macfarlane, law professor emerita, author and co-founder of the global campaign Can’t Buy My Silence, launched in September 2021 with Zelda Perkins (Harvey Weinstein’s former assistant). The duo, alongside many volunteers, fight for legislative and regulatory change on the use of NDAs so that they’re no longer used in cases that involve abuse. These agreements are often a way to muzzle victims, since they prevent them from speaking about their allegations publicly, while also protecting the perpetrators, whose identities remain anonymous.
NDAs have long been the hand that lifts the rug for things to be swept under, allowing guilty parties to avoid taking accountability and the same actions to be perpetuated in a poisonous cycle. However, that jig may be up. “The days when you could just ignore this stuff or make a bonfire in the courtyard or hide it in a filing cabinet are over,” says Macfarlane, who has personal negotiation experience, having handled her own settlement for being sexually abused by an Anglican
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“WE’VE SEEN IT WITH HOCKEY CANADA, AND I’VE SEEN IT WITH MANY, MANY OTHER ORGANIZATIONS: A CULTURE OF ENTITLEMENT THAT SAYS ‘WE’RE GOING TO TAKE CARE OF IT; DON’T YOU WORRY YOUR PRETTY LITTLE HEADS ABOUT IT.’”
minister when she was young. She also notes that the federal government has been much more interested in talking to her since the Hockey Canada scandal broke.
Macfarlane recently worked with elected official Lynne Lund in Prince Edward Island to establish a ban on the use of NDAs in sexual-abuse cases; it came into effect in the province last May, and she wants the federal government to get in line too. She points out that these agreements do have their appropriate uses—they were originally created during the 1980s tech boom as a way to protect intellectual property. But they have since morphed into something that’s used to cover up disgraceful misconduct, including sexual assault. Macfarlane’s background as a law professor at the University of Windsor led to her defending students who’d made accusations against a long-standing professor. After two years of battling to no avail with the school to get them to change their NDA policy, she resigned on principle.
When it comes to solutions, it’s difficult to start untangling something that feels so intertwined with Canadian culture, but change must be built on equality-based principles. Robinson has concrete suggestions like hosting male and female tournaments at the same time. “Everything changes when there are women around who have agency,” she says. “We need to have championships that [everyone is] at, whether they’re male or female or part of the [Paralympic] team. We all need to be there at the same time.” Robinson thinks these types of changes could force a sort of self-monitoring for players while also levelling the playing field between genders in the sport. It’s harder to maintain an untouchable power complex when having more participants involved means there’s no room left for a pedestal.
At hearings in November, it came to light that Hockey Canada had made inaccurate and misleading statements to the public since the scandal broke and had tried to put a positive spin on its use of the National Equity Fund for settlement payments. Also at these hearings, Bob Nicholson, the organization’s CEO from 1998 to 2014, apologized for having not instated guidelines for handling sexual abuse during his tenure. It was a rare moment of accountability in a scandal that has deepened with every freshly peeled layer—accountability that could set an example for the recognition that’s needed if the sport is to move forward differently.
In December, the London, Ont., police investigating the 2018 alleged assault announced that they have “reasonable grounds” to believe the five players did indeed assault E.M. At the time of the publication of this article, no criminal charges had been laid. However, investigators have requested warrants to access the hotel room where the incident happened as well as thumb drives that contain group conversations between the players.
Since leaving her Hockey Canada job last June to start her own prep hockey program at Bourget College in Rigaud, Que., with her partner, professional hockey player Mélodie Daoust, Bunton has moved in a new direction too and become a full-time coach, although she will also play in the PWHPA again this year. She is far from giving up on the sport. “I would be doing a disservice to myself and to the game of hockey if I didn’t stay involved and help create change so that these kinds of things aren’t happening to the next generation of kids.”
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JOINT VENTURE
How to get on the same financial page as your partner.
By TRUC NGUYEN
GETTING SERIOUS WITH SOMEONE? Moving in or planning a wedding with your partner? Then this is the time to have those big-picture conversations about money that one or both of you might have been putting off. It may not be an easy or fun process—according to an RBC survey conducted last year, money is a top stressor for 47 percent of Canadian couples and 32 percent find it hard to open up to their partner about finances—but the potential long-term gains for your relationship are more than worth the effort.
“My joke is always that you don’t have to whip out your credit report on the first date,” says Shannon Lee Simmons, a Certified Financial Planner (CFP) and founder of financial-planning firm The New School of Finance. “But I do think having big money conversations early on is critical to actually building a life with someone financially.”
There are many reasons why a lot of people avoid these conversations; maybe they’re worried about not meshing financially or about things like debt impacting a relationship’s prospects. “But as soon as you’re talking about future plans, that’s when you have to start having money conversations,” says Simmons. Those plans could include moving in together, having a baby, getting married, starting a business or buying a house. “Whatever it is that you’re going to do together financially, you need to make sure you’re on the same page so that things don’t blow up later,” she adds.
According to a 2021 TD Bank survey, 56 percent of Canadian couples share details about their finances with each other within the first six months of dating and 77 percent do so within a year. This was the case for 28-year-old Emily* and her 30-year-old boyfriend, who met online just over two years ago. Even in the early, getting-to-know-each-other phase of dating, the Toronto couple talked about their spending habits and money outlooks. “We were able to have those conversations around what we want,” says Emily. Not in an interrogative way, she notes, but through asking questions like “How do
you spend your money or extra money?” Still, they didn’t get into specifics around things like assets and income until after about six or seven months of dating.
If you’re just getting started, Simmons suggests first asking your partner how much they make because that is an important piece of information for you to know. “It’s going to help things be equitable between the two of you later; if you have income disparity, you can’t just split everything fifty-fifty, right?” she says. Additionally, you want to talk about debt and savings, financial obligations, your money personalities and even your credit histories. “The reason for doing that is not to point the finger at anybody for making good or bad decisions or to say who’s good with money and who’s not good with money,” emphasizes Simmons. “It’s so that you can make a plan together that’s fair.” Keep in mind, too, that “fair” and “equal” may not mean the same thing, especially if there’s a big disparity between your incomes or debts.
Emily and her boyfriend have been splitting the costs of bigger joint expenses like vacations equally, but they have talked about how that might change once they are living together in his condo because he currently earns almost twice as much as she does. One approach they are considering is combining most of their money into a joint account. “We do believe it’s still good to have a personal account for whatever you want to do, but when it comes to joint expenses, they would come out of that joint account,” says Emily.
How you want to manage your finances as a couple or household is a very personal decision, of course. The important thing is to have honest conversations and make joint decisions around how you will share financial responsibilities. “I truly believe there’s no right or wrong,” says Vanessa Bowen, a Chartered Professional Accountant (CPA), money coach and the founder of financial-services firm Mint Worthy Co. “It comes down to what aligns for you and your partner and what’s going to make your life easier. And as long as you choose that and stick to it, that’s all that matters.”
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Still, a study published this year in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology found that couples who pool their finances are more likely to be more satisfied with their relationship and less likely to break up. And there can be other benefits to pooling some or all of your finances when you’re in a committed relationship.
Alice* and her husband, both 37, have been together for more than a decade and married for eight years. They opened a joint bank account when they moved in together and fully combined their finances shortly after marriage. “We were 26 when we got together and didn’t have a lot of assets or a lot of debt, so it was very simple to join our accounts,” recalls Alice. “And that has been helpful because at different times in our lives, one or the other of us has not been working.” They were able to take risks in their careers because they have shared accounts, explains Alice. She felt more comfortable starting a business a few years ago and, later, taking a step back from it to care for their young children during the early days of the pandemic.
If you do decide to go the route of shared savings and assets, consider talking to a family lawyer about the legal ramifications. “When couples are looking to combine finances or purchase property, they need to decide what will happen if the relationship fails or one of them dies,” says Richard Bell, a Vancouver-based lawyer who specializes in estate planning. A cohabitation or prenuptial agreement “would specify how
assets would be distributed, which hopefully [means you would] avoid a messy and expensive legal battle,” says Bell.
Beyond that, however you choose to manage your finances as a couple, it’s key to get on the same page regarding your personal and family goals before you create a plan. Alice and her partner, for example, were aligned very early on about their goals. “I think the first two conversations that we had with each other were that it was important to both of us to not have a lot of debt and to buy a house by, hopefully, our 30th birthdays,” says Alice. And because they had those conversations, it was easier for the couple over the years to make lifestyle and financial decisions together that would support those goals.
When it comes to setting goals, you want to make sure that they are shared and prioritized in a way that makes emotional sense for both partners, advises Simmons. “Because if one person really doesn’t want to buy a house or if one person really doesn’t want to have a big wedding or go on a vacation, they’re not going to be as motivated to reduce expenses to save for it, and that’s just going to lead to fights.” Finally, keep in mind that the goals you set and the plans you make will shift and change as your relationship evolves—and that’s natural. “You have to come back to the family financial plan and adjust it as your life adjusts,” says Bowen. “It’s not ‘set it and forget it’—it has to evolve with you.”
MONEY ellecanada . com 51
PHOTOGRAPHY,
MICHELA RAVASIO/STOCKSY; *NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED.
Luminous Silk
MAKEUP ARTISTS’ BEST KEPT SECRET. PERFECT NATURAL GLOW. UP TO 40 TRUE-TO-SKIN SHADES.
SYDNEY SWEENEY WEARS SHADE 3
armani-beauty.ca
MAESTRO OF TEXTURE, MAESTRO OF SHADES.
ELLE beauty editors from around the world have selected the year’s top-performing products— and since they’ve tried pretty much everything out there right now, you know you can trust their judgment. Winners, take your places, please!
By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
beauty
Lash Clash
($39, YSLBEAUTY.CA)
This super-black polymerrich iris-infused lashzhuzhing formula delivers a whole lot of volume, flexibility and strength. And how chic is that tube?
“This created buzz on social media, and we know why! It lengthens, thickens and darkens the lashes to perfection. It’s a real winner.”
FOUNDATION
NARS Light Reflecting Foundation
($65, NARSCOSMETICS.CA)
LIPSTICK
Dior Rouge Dior Forever
($52, DIOR.COM)
It’s a yes without a moment’s hesitation for this red-peonyextract-and-nourishingoil-filled lipstick, in which vibrant colour, maximum comfort, velvety texture and impressive staying power coalesce to create the perfect lip.
“It’s simply THE best lipstick launched in recent years. It’s saturated with pigment, its matte finish is perfectly balanced (neither too powdery nor too shiny), it’s very comfortable and it lasts for hours.”
At the leading edge of cosmetic and skincare technology, this ultra-fine foundation gently melts to form a second skin, creating a complexion that’s as perfectly even as it is luminous.
“It’s an amazing way to transform dull and tired skin into pure perfection—it offers the right amount of highlighting and a ‘nomakeup makeup’ result.”
Makeup
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Yves Saint Laurent
– Marie-Noëlle Vekemans, ELLE Belgium
– Théo Dupuis-Carbonneau, ELLE Canada and ELLE Québec
– Carin Hellman, ELLE Sweden
Fragrance
Hermès Terre d’Hermès Eau Givrée Eau de Parfum Spray
($153 FOR 100 ML, HERMES.COM)
Fresh and intense with citrus, juniper and timur notes, this vibrant cologne pays tribute to the singular smell that fills the air after a frost.
“In-house nose Christine Nagel has done it again: She reinvented the classic Hermès men’s perfume in a way that’s both powerful and fresh. It’s a new favourite for all seasons.”
– Kaira van Wijk, ELLE Netherlands
PERFUME
Prada Paradoxe Eau de Parfum Spray
($140 FOR 50 ML, PRADA.COM)
The triangular bottle—so very Prada!—is home to a modern and complex bouquet of white and amber floral notes that celebrate the wearer’s many sides.
“This is an indescribable original fragrance that breaks the mould and is at the same time fresh, citrusy, floral and absolutely feminine. It’s avantgarde and elegant—just like the Italian house that created it.”
– Arlette Barrionuevo, ELLE Argentina
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PHOTOGRAPHY, IRINA SHESTAKOVA/GALLERY STOCK (MODEL) & GETTY (PRODUCT SMEARS)
BODY MOISTURIZER CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
($27, CERAVE.CA)
Developed with dermatologists, this body cream—which you can also use on your face—contains hyaluronic acid and ceramides, which quench dry skin faster than you can say “Yes, please.”
“What’s not to love about this? With its thick, creamy formula, which sinks into the skin, locks in moisture and contains great ingredients that help restore the skin’s protective barrier, this cream is my new go-to for dry, itchy skin.”
Body
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– Carolina Alvarez, ELLE Mexico
Face
MASK
Clarins Beauty Flash Peel ($55, CLARINS.CA)
Bid tired, dull skin adieu and say a big bonjour to your radiant, refreshed face in five minutes tops with this almond-extract, freesia, pear and magnolia elixir.
ANTI-AGING SKINCARE
Lancôme Rénergie
H.C.F. Triple Serum
($170, LANCOME.CA)
In this ingenious formula, you get a vitamin-C, hyaluronicacid, niacinamide and ferulic-acid cocktail that plumps the skin, reduces the appearance of fine lines and evens out the complexion in one fell swoop.
“You’ll notice a difference as soon as you apply this to your skin. Its three chambers dispense a gel, a cream and an emulsion that easily mix to produce a slickly textured fluid that’s quickly absorbed by the skin.”
– Nilay Yalçinkaya, ELLE Turkey
“Beauty Flash Balm has been a favourite skin-S.O.S. product among French women for the past 40 years, so this peel version is a must. Glycolic and salicylic acids brighten, and the brush on the tube is brilliant.”
– Elisabeth Martorell, ELLE France
FACE TOOL
Foreo Luna 4 2-in-1 Smart Facial Cleansing & Firming Device
($349, FOREO.COM)
MOISTURIZER
Chanel N°1 DE CHANEL
Revitalizing Cream
($136, CHANEL.COM)
With a formula that’s rich in protocatechuic acid sourced from the red camellia flower, Chanel has devised a very clever way to address cutaneous senescence—a.k.a. what’s responsible for premature aging of the skin. Even the lid is made of camellia husks. Full circle and sustainable?
Sign us up.
“I love the whole Chanel N°1 line. It has simple but effective formulas, rich textures and eco-friendly packaging, and it features the heritage brand’s symbol: the camellia flower.”
–
Italy
Call it the Cadillac of face tools: This smart brush transforms the chore of facial cleansing into a lovely homespa ritual with its gentle epidermis-massaging sonic pulsations. Actual heaven!
“Now that I’ve tried the Luna 4, I can’t live without it. I recommend this as an investment for a lifetime of results.”
– Chatlina Cheyjunya, ELLE Thailand
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Michela Motta, ELLE
PHOTOGRAPHY, BRI JOHNSON/GALLERY STOCK (MODEL) & GETTY (PRODUCT SMEARS)
SHAMPOO
Hair Rituel by Sisley Paris
Gentle Purifying Shampoo
($105, SISLEY-PARIS.COM)
This shampoo’s harmonious blend of Java-tea extract and rosemary and verbena essential oils oxygenates the scalp, while its provitamin B5 restores strength and shine to the hair.
“This nourishing shampoo makes my hair feel moisturized and my scalp feel very clean at the same time— which is no easy feat!”
– Kathleen Hou, ELLE U.S.
Hair
STYLING
Kérastase Elixir Ultime Original Hair Oil
($66, KERASTASE.CA)
Say goodbye to split ends and frizz and hello to a shiny mane! This iconic elixir by Kérastase delivers magical results thanks to its blend of argan, camellia, corn and pracaxi oils.
“This oil is so versatile—it can be used before or after washing hair, on the entire length or just on the ends and on straight or curly hair. It’s a real must-have.”
– Monika Kassai, ELLE Hungary
CONDITIONER
K18 Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask
($89, SEPHORA.CA)
There’s a reason this hair mask has caused quite a stir: Its molecular biomimetic technology miraculously rebuilds tired hair’s keratin chains—which may have been broken by chemical or physical damage—giving locks what can only be described as “a second life.”
“This hair mask is a secret weapon! It works inside the hair structure for permanent repair, and application is super fast and easy. Even heavily damaged, dry, frizzy hair instantly feels soft and manageable.”
– Barbara Huber, ELLE Germany
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PHOTOGRAPHY, IRINA SHESTAKOVA/GALLERY STOCK (MODEL) & GETTY (OIL DROPS & SMEAR)
GREEN MAKEUP
Westman Atelier Lip Suede
in Les Nudes ($114, HOLTRENFREW.COM)
In one insanely stylish compact, you’ll find four nude lip shades to wear alone or— for a unique colour twist—in combination. The brand gets major bonus points for a naturally pigmented formula that hydrates and softens lips with every application.
“Under the guidance of Gucci Westman, natural makeup has suddenly become so chic. This palette covers all the basic shades beautifully, and the product itself has a wonderful finish.”
– Katy Young, ELLE U.K.
Eco-friendly products
GREEN SKINCARE
Pai Skincare Rosehip
Bioregenerate Universal Facial Oil ($49, THEDETOXMARKET.CA)
This facial oil—which contains rosehip, vitamin E and omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9—addresses dullness, fine lines and blackheads to reveal radiant, supple skin.
“It gives me deep moisture, firmness and luminosity without a whisper of irritation.”
– Nicky Khanh Ngoc, ELLE Vietnam
GREEN HAIR CARE
Rahua Enchanted Island Shampoo ($47, ETIKET.CA)
This divinely-tropical-smelling shampoo’s scalp-stimulating secret? Its CBD base, which is expertly blended with coconut, moringa and peppermint oils.
“It’s like an exotic journey—my hair is soft and shiny, and it smells heavenly.”
– Maja Mendraszek-Goser, ELLE Poland
BEAUTY
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STAR POWER
Celebrity
makeup artist PATI DUBROFF on why working with starlets is her jam, the power of skin tools and the cult-fave items in her kit.
By LESA HANNAH
PATI DUBROFF KNEW SHE’D MADE THE RIGHT DECISION to relocate from New York City to Los Angeles when, standing at the baggage carousel at LAX, she returned a call from her agent, who told the makeup artist she had been booked for Vanity Fair ’s Hollywood Issue cover shoot by Annie Leibovitz. “I literally looked around and realized where I was and what I was hearing, and I knew it was a sign that I was doing exactly what I [was supposed to] be doing,” says Dubroff. Though she had left the high-fashion runway hustle behind—she had assisted François Nars—she still
62 ellecanada . com PHOTOGRAPHY, ROBIN BLACK STUDIO (P. DUBROFF)
hadn’t been sure if Hollywood was the place for her either. But at that moment in 2001, it immediately became clear that it was. “It was thunderous,” she says. “I’ll never forget it.”
Tinseltown proved to be the perfect fit for Dubroff; the calm, intimate process of working one-on-one after the circus frenzy of the fashion-show world felt right. “That quieter support really suits me,” she says. “And my maternal instincts are strong; I like to take care of people.” Her clients also trust her. “I’m good at keeping secrets, so celebrities appreciate that feeling of safety and confidentiality.” And, of course, the kind of makeup she does, whether it’s for the red carpet or press junkets, is validating. “My jam is making the person in front of me—whether she’s world-famous or one of us—feel like the best version of herself at that moment.”
Over her decades-long career, Dubroff, 55, has done just that for an endless list of high-profile actors such as Charlize Theron, Natalie Portman, Naomi Watts, Julianne Moore, Margot Robbie and Priyanka Chopra. While she is sought out for her light touch with makeup, in recent years, she has become known among her peers for being an early adopter of skin tools, from gua sha to microcurrent devices. They’re things she discovered from picking the brains of facialists after she noticed that as she aged, she could no longer just slap on makeup and expect it to look good. “I needed to do more,” she says. “And by doing more, I got better results.”
She quickly realized that using such tools to prep her clients would pay off tenfold, whether the face she was working on was 19 or 59. This was especially evident when she would finish working on one side of someone’s face and call over everyone in the room to look at the difference between the two. They were always wowed, particularly the person in her chair, who could feel that one side had been lifted. “People expect an aesthetician, not a makeup artist, to be adding [those kinds of treatments] to the mix,” she says. “But in 10 minutes, I help my client’s skin look a lot better, so I don’t need to use as much foundation.”
She posts about many of these beauty pointers for her 277K Instagram followers, and while she comes from a generation of artists who didn’t have to constantly create content during their earlier years but now feel the pressure to do so, she enjoys using social media. “I am so grateful for the ability that it’s given me to connect with people, to find a community and share what I know,” she says. But she’s not shy about divulging personal info either. In a post last year, she revealed that she’d had surgery a few years prior to address a brain aneurysm and it’s part of what led her to make the decision to never get Botox or fillers.
It was a brave and refreshing statement from someone who’s immersed in the world of Hollywood and all its vanity pressures and proof that Dubroff has succeeded in staying grounded through it all. “I’m not interested in changing myself,” she says. “Internally, mentally and all of that, yes, but not externally.” That doesn’t mean she doesn’t look in the mirror and struggle with the sight of “elevens” between her brows. But she is steadfast. “I know I could fix that. But I’m not gonna do it.”
IN HER KIT
“I use it as a highlighter, pre-makeup, focusing on the high bones. Then, after foundation, tap on a little bit more to add even more glow.”
WELEDA SKIN FOOD ORIGINAL ULTRA RICHE CREAM ($23, WELL.CA)
“I see the biggest difference in brightness after I use these. When I’m getting someone ready, I’ll put the masks on them and work on their neck and the lower half of their face with tools. Then I’ll take the masks off and massage whatever serum is left over around the eye area.”
BIOEFFECT IMPRINTING HYDROGEL EYE MASKS ($80 FOR EIGHT PAIRS, THEBIOEFFECT.CA)
“When those two balls roll, they actually mimic what happens when the skin gets grabbed by a hand— that beautiful grip a facial massage gives you instead of just straight-upand-down rolling.”
REFA CARAT RAY FACE ROLLER ($338, NORDSTROM.CA)
“This eye pencil is so good. You have a lot of playtime to be able to blend and smudge, but then once it sets, it stays put. It’s really fabulous.”
BYREDO KAJAL PENCIL ($41, HOLTRENFREW.COM)
“Microcurrent devices are all a little different, but ZIIP is top-of-the-line. Most people are a little intimidated about how to use it, but it’s very user-friendly thanks to its app, which has built-in programs for different targets. And in addition to microcurrents, it has nanocurrents, which are really effective.”
ZIIP GX NANO CURRENT DEVICE + GOLDEN GEL ($650, ETIKET.CA)
“In the world of lipstick, it’s Chanel and only Chanel. can’t get enough of all of its tones; there are so many beautiful nudes and neutrals lately.”
CHANEL ROUGE ALLURE VELVET IN 55 SOPHISTIQUÉE ($52, CHANEL.COM)
“I love the way this performs. As soon as the water hits it, it lightens up but doesn’t bubble. Everything comes off super easily, and skin feels hydrated afterwards.”
WELEDA SKIN FOOD FACE CARE NOURISHING OIL-TO-MILK CLEANSER ($28, WELL.CA)
BEAUTY ellecanada . com 63
Tried and Tested: SEMI-PERMANENT FRECKLES
Everything you need to know about the everso-trendy temporary face tattoos.
By JOANIE PIETRACUPA
MY CHILDHOOD BEST FRIEND’S FACE HAD A CONSTELLATION OF FINE FRECKLES that made her look as beautiful as the Milky Way—and I was so jealous! That being said, a lot of our classmates would tease her for it. Ephelides, as dermatologists call them, appear on skin starting at an early age when it’s exposed to the sun, and it’s interesting to see how trendy they are now given their former schoolyard stigma. Thanks to Instagram filters and fabulously freckled celebs like Kylie Jenner, Bella Hadid and Jonathan Van Ness, people today can wear these gorgeous melanin clusters as a badge of honour. And although I could get up early every morning and paint my face with freckles, the idea that I could also get semi-permanent tattoos to experience them for almost a year has always been way more intriguing. So, I did it—and here’s how it went.
64 ellecanada . com PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (MODEL)
WHAT IT IS: Semi-permanent freckles are temporary cosmetic tattoos that are applied to the face using an ultra-thin mechanical tattooing needle, and depending on your skin type and environmental factors, the results can last anywhere from eight months to two years. Light and discreet, these faux freckles look totally natural and work well on all skin tones.
HOW IT WORKS: Over the course of an hour, a technician and I talk about my freckle goals (ideal colour, locations and quantity). They ask me questions like “Do you want to see your freckles through your makeup?” and “Just on the nose and cheekbones or all over that sweet little face of yours?” before studying my complexion and hair colour. Next, an anaesthetic cream is applied to my face and freckles are drawn on with a makeup pencil to determine the sizes and locations for my new facial additions. At this point, I’m given the option to make any changes, which helps keep my expectations aligned with reality. Once the anaesthetic kicks in, the pigment is applied with the electric tattoo needle one freckle at a time. Since the pigment doesn’t penetrate below the skin’s surface, the procedure is pretty much painless.
MY REVIEW: As someone who has also taken two other semi-permanent treatments out for a spin—namely, powder brows and lip blush—I love these freckle tattoos. The effect is so subtle that they complement my natural freckles. I also think they make me look just the right amount of quirky-cute!
PRICE TAG: The cost depends on how many freckles you decide to get. Expect to pay somewhere between $525 and $600 for a procedure.
WHERE TO GO
The Good Geisha, Toronto (goodgeisha.com)
Studio Sashiko, Langley, B.C. (studiosashiko.com)
Lesage Cosmetic Tattoo, Kelowna, B.C. (lesagecosmetictattoo.ca)
Arcane Body Arts, Vancouver (arcanebodyarts.ca)
Dermocontraste, Montreal (dermocontraste.com)
Alkhemist Studio, Montreal (alkhemist.com)
THE TEMPORARY TECHNIQUE
WHAT
YOU NEED TO KNOW:
The colour will look more intense right afterwards, and your skin may appear swollen, so don’t panic. Also, you’ll want to avoid aspirin, ibuprofen and alcohol prior to your appointment since they act as blood thinners and make skin more sensitive. Your freckles will fade by about 30 to 40 percent in the days following the treatment, and there could also be some light peeling—but please leave your beautiful face alone because if you start removing the dead skin yourself, you may accidentally remove the pigment you just paid for! Your true results will appear about two weeks after your tattooing sesh. Avoid exposure to the sun while you’re healing because it could cause your freckles to take on a shade you didn’t intend on (more grey/red) or even fade excessively.
Not ready to go all the way, even if it won’t last forever? Here’s how to draw on freckles of your own: Using a fine brow pencil or felt-tip marker—ideally in a neutral or taupe tone for fairer complexions and warm brown for deeper skin tones—apply one freckle at a time, gently tapping with a finger or beauty sponge to blend. Repeat until you’ve achieved freckled-goddess status.
1. FRECK BEAUTY THE ORIGINAL FRECKLE ($37, SEPHORA.CA)
2. LIME CRIME FRECKLE PEN ($21, REVOLVE.CA)
WHO
IT’S FOR:
“Faux freckles look good on anyone who has ever dreamed of having a freckly face or a beauty mark as well as people who want a sun-kissed look or want to hide scarring or hyperpigmentation,” says cosmetic-tattoo artist Marie-Audrée Caouette (@dermocontraste on Instagram).
3. MAYBELLINE NEW YORK BROW ULTRA SLIM DEFINING EYEBROW PENCIL ($14, MAYBELLINE.CA)
BEAUTY ellecanada . com 65
1 3 2
THE LOOKS CREATED BY MAKEUP ARTIST Donni Davy on acclaimed HBO series Euphoria changed the way many people view makeup. They not only got everyone talking about their colours, sparkles, elaborate eyeliner and stickers but also inspired us to take greater risks and literally colour outside the lines. Sydney Sweeney, one of the show’s breakout stars, was also inspired. “Beauty is a journey—a journey that belongs to me,” says the American actor. It’s no wonder, then, that the 25-year-old (who was also much loved in the first season of The White Lotus and will be starring in Madame Web, a new Marvel movie, later on this year) was chosen as the face of both the new Armani Beauty refillable fragrance My Way and the brand’s Luminous Silk makeup range. We recently spoke with Sweeney about her beauty world.
WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU TO BE A SPOKESPERSON FOR ARMANI BEAUTY? “I’m still pinching myself! It’s a real dream. It’s a really exciting partnership because I’m a big fan of several products in the range—as well as Giorgio Armani himself. Being part of this big family and being the face of this divine perfume makes me happy.”
WHICH PRODUCTS DO YOU LIKE THE MOST? “I started working with my makeup artist, Melissa Hernandez, six years ago, and she introduced me to Armani Beauty’s Luminous Silk foundation. The moment she put it on my skin, my relationship with makeup changed dramatically. It made all the difference. I introduced other great products into my beauty routine too, such as the Neo Nude liquid blush and Lip Power lipstick. I have been won over!”
WHAT’S YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH BEAUTY? “My philosophy is ‘I am what I live.’ For me, it’s important to create my own path, to be curious, to free my mind and to be independent, even when it comes to beauty, which comes first from within.”
FREE SPIRIT
SYDNEY SWEENEY, one of Hollywood’s hottest young actors, tells us about her new role with Armani Beauty, her favourite products and how she expresses herself through makeup.
By ELISABETH MASSICOLLI
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR DAILY BEAUTY ROUTINE?
“Really simple! I experiment a lot with makeup for work— putting myself in the shoes of different characters or creating looks for red-carpet events—so in my daily life, less is more. A little concealer, blush on my cheeks and on the tip of my nose, a spritz of perfume and voila!”
AND IF YOU WANT A LOOK THAT’S A LITTLE MORE GLAM? “I’ll add a dash of eyeliner. I’m not yet good at drawing a very straight line, but I’m practising! I also like to create a smoky eye using glittery eyeshadow.”
HOW HAS WORKING WITH DONNI DAVY CHANGED YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH MAKEUP? “I’m definitely more adventurous than I used to be. She showed me that there are no rules—that you can cross barriers and not confine yourself to one look or one way of doing things. Makeup is a way of expressing yourself. I’m a free spirit, so that speaks to me.”
66 ellecanada . com PHOTOGRAPHY, DARIO CATELLANI
(S. SWEENEY)
1. ARMANI BEAUTY MY WAY EAU DE PARFUM SPRAY ($135 FOR 50 ML)
1 2 3 4
2. ARMANI BEAUTY LUMINOUS SILK FOUNDATION ($82). 3. ARMANI BEAUTY LIP POWER LIPSTICK IN 602 DESIRE ($52). 4. ARMANI BEAUTY NEO NUDE A-BLUSH IN 50 ($53) ARMANI-BEAUTY.CA
APRÈS-SKI
By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
1. If those delicate paws are having trouble dealing with the polar vortex, pamper them with this soothing amino-acidinfused hand sheet mask and say goodbye to cracked, dry skin!
SEPHORA COLLECTION CUCUMBER HAND MASKS ($7, SEPHORA.CA)
2. This hyper-concentrated conditioner relies on pumpkinseed oil and aloe vera to nourish and detangle hair. A bonus? Its recycled and recyclable aluminum tube packaging.
EVERIST THE DEEP CONDITIONING CONCENTRATE ($28, HELLOEVERIST.COM)
This stick-format mask allows for hassle-free application, and its formula—which contains peony root and safflower oil— helps calm sensitive skin.
KLORANE STICK MASK WITH ORGANIC PEONY ($33, WELL.CA)
No fireplace nearby? This candle, which has notes of vanilla, smoke and cedar, will help you set the après-ski mood. Plus, once it has burned down, the holder can become a new coffee cup!
BONFIRE REUSABLE CANDLE, MIMI & AUGUST ($38, MIMIANDAUGUST.COM)
5. After playing outside all day, take time to massage your skin with this body scrub, which combines natural walnut shells with glycolic acid to buff, shine and soften.
MEGABABE POWER WASH ROSY BODY SCRUB ($18, NORDSTROM.CA)
6. Suffering from sensitive, inflamed skin? This treatment— which contains bioactive marine ingredients and uses technology that’s patent-pending—promises to strengthen the skin’s barrier overnight. Sweet dreams!
U BEAUTY THE BARRIER BIOACTIVE TREATMENT ($258, HOLTRENFREW.COM)
7. This mist moisturizes and soothes dry and eczematous skin, and thanks to its handy spray application, there’s no need to rub it in. The result is skin that is quenched but not irritated.
TOPICALS LIKE BUTTER BODY HYDRATING & SOOTHING MIST ($39, SEPHORA.CA)
8. This vegan formula contains shea butter and wheat-germ and macadamia oils, smells like watermelon and cucumber and comes in a recyclable jar made partly of Ocean Bound Plastic—a recycled raw material made from plastic waste that is at risk of ending up in the oceans. What could be kinder?
BKIND MOISTURE & NOURISH HAIR MASK ($62, BKIND.COM)
9. Suffering from major winterhat hair? No problem! This brush—which has copper-plated antibacterial bristles—detangles knots while making those locks shine.
MELA & KERA BALAYAGE EXCEPTIONNEL LE BRUSH 01 –THE ULTIMATE BRUSH ($42, MELAANDKERA .COM)
10. When the sun’s rays are reflected on the snow, they’re more powerful—and damaging—so be sure to treat any brown spots that escaped your sunscreen routine with this powerful serum, which contains vitamin C, licorice-root extract and niacinamide.
FENTY SKIN WATCH YA TONE
NIACINAMIDE DARK SPOT SERUM ($54 FOR THE SERUM AND $49 FOR THE REFILL, FENTYSKIN.COM)
11. While its notes of sandalwood and frangipani envelop the senses, this hair cleanser’s formula, which contains maple and pecan extracts, strengthens and protects locks from the damage winter weather can cause.
AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT REPLENISH CLEANSER ($35, AUTHENTICBEAUTYCONCEPT.CA)
12. Compact, versatile and easy to use (hello, guided-rhythm technology!), this hand-held massager is sore muscles’ new BFF.
LYRIC THERAPEUTIC MASSAGER IN BLUE ($150, NORDSTROM.CA)
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (MODEL) BEAUTY ellecanada . com 67
The best way to embrace winter is to get out there and make the most of it—just be sure to indulge in a little seasonal self-care afterwards.
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THE ART OF LUXURY
High-end Swiss cosmetics brand LA MAISON VALMONT is a leader in innovation and has a mission to bring beauty— in all its forms—to the people.
By JOANIE PIETRACUPA
BEFORE I JETTED OFF TO FRANCE AND ITALY last June to discover more about La Maison Valmont, I was only somewhat familiar with the upmarket Swiss brand and its urban spas. I’d had the privilege of sampling a smattering of its latest collection’s anti-aging products and enjoying one of its much-touted facials—which was the best brightening treatment my skin has ever experienced—but not much else. Over the course of the three-day whirlwind media tour—which took me from Montreal to Venice via Paris—I learned about the company’s line of highly refined products and fragrances as well as its four residences, which pay homage to Didier and Sophie Guillon (the owners and CEOs of La Maison Valmont for more than two decades) and their contemporary-art foundation.
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF LA MAISON VALMONT
68 ellecanada . com CROSSING. AD
AT THE
ALICE IN
VENICE
OCCHI CHIUSI BY SILVANO RUBINO, PRESENTED
VALMONT FOUNDATION’S
DOOMEDLAND EXHIBITION,
PARIS TO SPA AND SHOP
Super-chic Parisian hotel and glitterati haunt Le Meurice is home to an elegant La Maison Valmont boutique and a Valmont spa—havens of well-being in the heart of the City of Light. At the spa, I got to discover the newest additions to La Maison Valmont’s V-Firm Collection: a serum ($420), an eye-firming gel ($360) and a facial cream ($550), all designed to reinvigorate skin and give it more bounce, elasticity and firmness thanks to formulations that harness biomimetic technology and contain active ingredients like peptides and innovative anti-aging molecules. All of the brand’s products contain natural extracts that are sourced—using cutting-edge technology—from plants grown with the utmost care in the Swiss Alps. I was especially smitten with the eye-firming gel, with its honey-like consistency and the way it refreshed my tired-looking skin in seconds.
On the boutique side of things, I got the opportunity to experience a selection of the elevated scents dreamed up by La Maison Valmont’s expert noses and curated by Sophie Guillon herself. The perfumes, eaux de parfum and eaux de toilette are grouped into three original collections that honour Venice—Storie Veneziane, Collezione Privata and Palazzo Nobile—which is one of the Guillon family’s favourite cities. There are 18 fragrances in total, all sophisticated and original. And the handcrafted Murano-glass perfume bottles are a perfect manifestation of three little French words: haut de gamme
VENICE FOR A LUXE RESIDENCE AND A FOUNDATION
As soon as I landed in Venice, I made my way to Valmont’s La Serenissima Résidence Bonvicini. As I stepped into the grandeur of the boutique hotel, which is overflowing with contemporary artwork, antique furniture and eclectically styled decorative pieces, the Valmont team informed me that the organization also owns three other residences—in Verbier (Switzerland), Hydra (Greece) and Barcelona (Spain). The Venice location serves as a pied-à-terre for the Guillon family and hosts those who are lucky enough to receive a VIP invitation from Valmont.
In 2015, Didier Guillon created the Valmont Foundation, an institution that hosts his personal art collection and promotes contemporary art by supporting young artists. Having grown up around the art world, he wanted to create something that would help artists show their work, share the beauty of art in general and be a way to host charity art-auction events. Through the foundation (which is just a stone’s throw from La Serenissima), Guillon has already held two contemporary-art exhibitions at Palazzo Bonvicini this year, including the ongoing Peter Pan. La nécessité du rêve (on until February 26, 2023).
For more information on the Valmont Group and its cosmetics, fragrances and spas, make your way to lamaisonvalmont.com To learn more about the Valmont Foundation and its current and future exhibitions, visit fondationvalmont.com
ART IN A BOTTLE
LA MAISON VALMONT V-FIRM EYE ($360, LAMAISONVALMONT.COM)
LA MAISON VALMONT STORIE
VENEZIANE ROSSO I PERFUME EXTRACT ($600 FOR 100 ML, LAMAISONVALMONT.COM)
BEAUTY
ellecanada . com 69
BLESSING IN DISGUISE BY DIDIER AND VALENTINE GUILLON, PRESENTED AT THE PETER PAN. LA NÉCESSITÉ DU RÊVE EXHIBITION AT PALAZZO BONVICINI, VENICE
LA MAISON VALMONT’S LA SERENISSIMA RÉSIDENCE BONVICINI, VENICE
The LIFE AQUATIC
Here’s how becoming a bath person can enhance your wellness routine.
By INGRIE WILLIAMS
AT THIS TIME OF YEAR , many of us are eager for an escape from winter’s barrage of cold days. The good news is you don’t have to travel far for a warm and restorative experience: Whisk yourself off to your bathroom and get in the tub. “I consider a bath a meditation,” says Greg Macdonald, who finds that the aquatic activity offers the stillness and reflection of a yoga session. The founder and CEO of Bathorium, an Ottawabased line of clean-beauty bathing products, takes to the water five nights a week. As a young boy growing up in a bustling multi-generational household with three brothers, Macdonald discovered that the bath was the only place he could find refuge.
“Even as a 12-year-old kid, I loved the bath, and at that age I wasn’t necessarily interested in what was in it—it was more that I loved the ritual behind it,” he says. The mindful wellness act also resonates with Sarah Laroche, founder and CEO of SELV Rituel, a vegan body-and-bath wellness brand offering handmade products from Montreal. “A bath gives you time to slow down, relax, recharge and take care of your body and mind,” she says.
With a little fine tuning, a bath can transcend mere cleansing to become so much more. During the pandemic—a time when she was struggling with sleep, confined to her small apartment and in the throes of a tough breakup—Samantha Jane, a Toronto beauty-content creator and co-host of the Pretty Blunt podcast, developed a nightly bath ritual that’s now a weekly routine. “I treat my bath like my couch, so whatever I’d be doing on the couch in the evenings is what I do in the bath,” she says. That can include taking phone calls, scrolling TikTok or watching Netflix. “I think what stopped me from getting in the bath before was that I felt it had to be about checking out and sitting in silence,” she says. “But I realized I don’t need to do that. It doesn’t have to be the most classy and enlightening experience of all time to be relaxing.” Embracing every facet of self-care, Jane also notes that waterproof sex toys shouldn’t be overlooked. “It’s really been about getting more comfortable figuring out what a bath looks like for me,” she says.
SET THE SCENE
Whatever your bath-time plan, the first step to elevating your experience is to create a soothing ambience. Turn off overhead lighting and light some candles to set the mood. “That scene from Friends when Chandler and Monica get engaged? That’s my bathroom on any given evening,” says Macdonald. “I light it up because it creates an atmosphere and helps me slow down.” You’ll also want to clear your space—in every sense.
“I have a cat litter box in my bathroom, so that gets taken out,” says Jane. “And the cats get locked out too—no one’s coming in.” Laroche’s essentials also include playing music, burning incense and filling the space with crystals. Lastly, be prepared to stay hydrated by having ice water on hand to sip as you soak so you can replenish lost fluids. “The key to being able to stay in a hot bath is drinking tons of cold water,” says Jane, who keeps all her necessities within reach. “Investing in a bathtub tray that can prop up an iPad and has a drink slot has been a game-changer.”
70 ellecanada . com PHOTOGRAPHY,
TARYN-ELLIOTT/PEXELS
PHOTOGRAPHY, TARYN-ELLIOTT/PEXELS
PASS THE SALT
The big secret to a first-class bath is using multiple ingredients to transform tap water into a skin-soothing concoction. “You want the water to feel like silk,” says Macdonald. He was inspired to start his line—which is now also featured on bath menus at Shangri-La hotels in Toronto and Vancouver—after a backpacking trip through Europe in 2014. A stop in Positano, Italy, led to an “aha” moment courtesy of a beautiful claw-footed tub and a knowledgeable nona who drew him a bath. “It was the most decadent, creamy and amazing-smelling bath I’ve ever been in,” he says, recalling the mixture she made up with bath salts, oils and shavings of cocoa butter that melted under the hot running water.
At home, it’s easy to customize your bath by blending salts, oils and bubble baths that deliver different benefits. For a bougie boost, Macdonald recommends incorporating a dose of lactic acid by pouring in half to one litre of light cream or homogenized goat or cow milk. “It creates this dreamy Cleopatra experience, and lactic acid is a natural exfoliant, which is great for dry, irritated skin,” he says. “It also helps disperse the salts and essential oils throughout the bath.”
Next, try an ancient remedy by adding one to two cups of Dead Sea or Epsom salts. “Our Dead Sea salt pool is rich in minerals such as magnesium, calcium, iodine and potassium, and this helps replenish the body’s nutrients,” says Laura Polley, president and CEO of Body Blitz Spa, a Toronto spot focused on the healing power of water-circuit therapy. “It also helps ease dry, flaky skin and eczema.” Epsom salts also have anti-inflammatory properties, which is helpful when you’re feeling sore or achy. The magnesium content helps regulate enzymes and relieves muscle and joint discomfort. “Our Epsom-salt pool deeply relaxes the body, releases stress and tension and can help offset fatigue, resulting in improved sleep,” says Polley. “It’s also a natural exfoliant and can leave skin feeling soft and hydrated.” Once salt is added, you can move on to oils (which
will help protect the skin’s barrier) and foaming products to further enrich the water. “[Bath salts] kill bubbles, so it’s best to add them in before layering other products; otherwise, you’ll end up with a flat bath,” says Macdonald.
NATURE KNOWS BEST
Scent-wise, a herbal-forward profile is guaranteed to be soothing. Jane favours calming lavender and eucalyptus, Macdonald is a fan of sage and coriander seed and Laroche has a soft spot for the balsam-fir oil that’s harvested from her family’s land and used in her oil blends. “It gives me the ultimate sense of relaxation,” she says. “The smell reminds me of childhood— those sweet, innocent wide-eyed moments.” Lean into a scent that takes you to your own happy place.
WATER WORLD
Take inspiration from some bath traditions from across the globe.
JAPAN
An onsen, which means “hot spring” in Japanese, is a bath fed by a naturally occurring hot spring that is rich in mineral content. Enjoyment of these dates back to AD 700, and thousands can be found across the volcanic island country.
FINLAND
The sauna (pronounced “sow-na”)—a building or room traditionally constructed with logs and heated by a wood-burning oven topped with stones—has long provided a warm place to sweat out those frosty Finnish winters.
TURKEY
Known as “hammams” and historically built for public use, ancient Turkish baths go hand in hand with a ritual that involves resting on a heated marble slab, being doused with buckets of water and exfoliating skin using a kese, or woven washcloth.
ICELAND
The turquoise waters of the world-renowned Blue Lagoon spa are enriched with silica, algae and minerals, and the geothermal destination is also home to a restorative mud that visitors can slather themselves in.
ellecanada . com 71 WELLNESS
1. UMBRA AQUALA BATH CADDY ($60, CA.UMBRA.COM)
2. SELV RITUEL BORÉAL IMMERSIVE KIT ($38, SELVRITUEL.COM)
3. KIP VIBRATOR, DAME ($130, CHAPTERS.INDIGO.CA)
4. SOJA & CO. EUCALYPTUS, MINT & ROSEMARY BUBBLE BATH ($29, SOJACO.CA). 5. BATHORIUM NORTHERN SAGE RECOVERY CRUSH ($30, BATHORIUM.COM). 6. OMOROVICZA BUDAPEST BATH OIL ($60, OMOROVICZA.COM). 7. NIYAMA SLEEP LIKE BUDDHA BEDTIME BATH SOAK ($28, NIYAMA-WELLNESS.CA).
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GAME CHANGER
A new skincare range is revolutionizing how we treat aging skin.
IF, LIKE US, YOU’RE OBSESSED WITH SKINCARE, you probably have a shelf (or shelves) stocked with potent products that claim to help you maintain a youthful glow—among other promises. The main problem with those products? They aim to address the signs and symptoms of a problem, not the actual source.
Eau Thermale Avène is changing the game. Its new HYALURON ACTIV B3 range is specially formulated to target the root cause of aging. Just like us, our cells age over time; this isn’t exactly surprising. Science has shown that older cells in our body are no longer active, no longer divide and, in some cases, propagate aging around them. Through more than six years of research alongside global expert Jean-Marc Lemaitre, the French dermatologic laboratory brand discovered that skin cells also act in a similar way: Senescent (a.k.a. older) cells are “contagious,” meaning they can easily spread to nearby cells and speed up their aging as well. So by directly targeting senescent cells—like Avène’s Hyaluron Activ B3 line does—you can combat the source of aging and prolong the youthfulness of your skin.
So how exactly does Hyaluron Activ B3 do that? It starts with an impressive formula that contains two all-star ingredients. The first is niacinamide (vitamin B3), which, when
present in a high concentration—like it is in this line, at 6 percent—is proven to be the most effective anti-aging active ingredient. Niacinamide can slow the spread of aging, reduce wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation spots and oxidative stress and improve skin elasticity. The second is a pure hyaluronic acid duo (low and high molecular weight)—something that naturally occurs within our skin but decreases over time— which plumps and hydrates while penetrating deep down to recharge the surface of the skin.
The range launches in Canada this February with four ultra-effective products: the refillable Hyaluron Activ B3 Renewal Firming Cream, a velvety moisturizer that immediately smooths, firms and brightens; the Hyaluron Activ B3 Concentrated Plumping Serum, a fragrance-free formula that plumps and firms skin and boosts elasticity; the Hyaluron Activ B3 Multi-Intensive Night Cream, which contains haritaki extract and retinal to encourage cell renewal and collagen synthesis; and the Hyaluron Activ B3 Triple Action Eye Cream, a silky gel that targets dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles in the eye area. An added bonus? These vegan products, which are tested on sensitive skin, are composed of more than 92 percent natural ingredients and come in environmentally responsible packaging. Who can beat that?
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X AVÈNE PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF AVÈNE
MISINFORMATION OVERLOAD
By VAL DESJARDINS
ACROSS ENDLESS INTERNET FORUMS , nutrition is a wellness topic that has birthed countless trends, ideas and regimens. The resulting cascade of information—much of it inaccurate—is considered by many to be a legitimate source of solutions when it comes to issues like weight loss, immunity, gut health and many others. Professionals and amateurs alike have flooded these spaces with conflicting opinions, and for individuals seeking answers, constantly questioning whether or not they are doing the right thing can be exhausting.
When we think about health and nutrition, it’s important to remember that this includes not only the foods we consume on a daily basis but also the full spectrum of how we nourish our body, from vitamins to alcohol to cups of morning coffee. This means that the scope of our nutritional habits is complex and that making changes can be a delicate task. We inevitably seek out answers, which—thanks to the vox pop—often leads to misconceptions that have become so commonplace that we’ve stopped questioning them.
Let’s start with the topic of immunity. The arrival of the colder weather is often accompanied by advertisements and advice associated with the idea of “boosting” the immune system. In pharmacies and health-food stores, many products tout their ability to increase the production of immune cells, but in reality, the body works to consistently produce a variety of immune cells and the idea of boosting this production is nonsensical. The narrative around nutritional supplements can be equally misleading. In Canada, our recommended daily intake of vitamin C—a nutrient that we do not produce independently but is critical to our body’s functioning—is 75 milligrams. The 500-milligram capsules that we see at the pharmacy, therefore, exceed that amount, and most of it would not be absorbed by our body once consumed. Instead, we can easily reach that daily quota by consuming a large orange, which, for reference, contains about 95 milligrams of vitamin C.
In adjusting our nutritional intake, some of us may feel inclined to incorporate more plant-based options into our diet. Plant-based eating has become increasingly popular over the past few years since, along with boasting a lower carbon footprint, it can help minimize inflammation in the body. That being said, the roster of plant-based offerings on the market shouldn’t automatically be deemed “healthier.”
Marketing that suggests otherwise is similar to the greenwashing of lifestyle products that aren’t actually sustainable. Many plantbased products contain significant quantities of refined sugar, salt or additives (such as preservatives and flavour enhancers, like MSG). So, although I’m a huge proponent of a flexitarian lifestyle that includes an abundance of plant-based options, I encourage people to prioritize the consumption of unrefined whole foods for this reason.
Understanding the truth behind some of these misconceptions helps consumers avoid decision-making fatigue and get to the “right” health choices. Taking supplements or adjusting what we eat shouldn’t be done blindly. I personally believe that the best nutrition habits cater to our individual needs, and there is no quick and easy way to figure out what that looks like for each person. When embarking on that journey, it’s important to remember that we all have different lifestyles and that it may take time to see the effects of any changes we make. For example, if you’re eliminating a food from your diet that you suspect might be an irritant, it may take time for your body to heal and all traces of an inflammatory response to disappear. Similarly, working with a doctor, allergist or nutritionist can be a lengthy process and, though highly recommended, also requires us to accept that we may not be able to immediately identify what works and what doesn’t. When it comes to making informed decisions on this front, an annual blood test can provide the insight needed to identify any nutritional deficiencies. We also have to be aware of the intentions and mindset with which we approach any changes to our lifestyle. Don’t think of things like drinking less coffee, reducing alcohol intake and prioritizing the consumption of unrefined whole foods as forms of deprivation; they are all positive changes that will have an impact on the physical and emotional facets of our lives. And as we navigate the discourse that surrounds this topic and engage with content related to the next trendy diet or health regimen, it’s important to understand that tackling misinformation is, in itself, an act of care. The relationship that we have with our body is one that will last our entire lives. Taking the time to make informed, data-driven decisions about how best to care for ourselves is worth the effort required to sort through the endless stream of opinions and information at our disposal. Ultimately, we can see it as a way of giving thanks for all that our body allows us to accomplish.
PHOTOGRAPHY, KELLY JACOB HEALTH
When we make changes to our nutritional habits, it’s important to question even the most widespread beliefs. Here’s how to cut through the noise and take steps in the right direction.
ellecanada . com 73
VAL DESJARDINS , owner of The Studio MTL and personal trainer
(1) Nielsen IQ, National GB + DR + MM. Period ending November 26, 2022, in units. (2) Instrumental test, 24 subjects 1 hour after stripping test. (3) Survey conducted among the dermocosmetic market by AplusA and other partners between January 2021 and July 2021, involving dermatologists in 34 countries, representing more than 82% of global GDP. BRAND RECOMMENDED DERMATOLOGISTS WORLDWIDE (3) SKIN STRENGTHENING HYDRATION MINÉRAL 89 BOOSTER 89% VICHY VOLCANIC WATER + HYALURONIC ACID +71% SKIN STRENGTH (2) SERUM IN CANADA (1) N°1
FEBRUARY/ MARCH
HARNESS THE POWER OF SELF-EXPRESSION TO SHAPE YOUR WINTER STYLE.
PHOTOGRAPHY, MATTIAS BJÖRKLUND; COAT, ANORAK AND SHIRT (CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE), BAG (VENCZEL) AND RING AND EARRING (SIMUERO)
fashion
Songs in the key of Lizzo
THREE GRAMMYS, A CRITICALLY ACCLAIMED TV SHOW AND A REVOLUTIONARY SHAPEWEAR LINE INTO HER CAREER, LIZZO IS ON HER BIGGEST MISSION YET WITH HER LATEST ALBUM. SHE TELLS KENYA HUNT ABOUT THE LOVES, THE LOWS AND THE MANY LESSONS THAT GOT HER HERE.
PHOTOGRAPHERS
STYLISTS
JASON
AB+DM
GEORGIA MEDLEY AND
REMBERT
DRESS (CUSTOM-MADE CHET LO), EARRINGS (GUCCI) AND RING (BOUCHERON)
BODYSUIT (CUSTOM-MADE ALIETTE) AND EARRINGS (MESSIKA)
“JUST A MINUTE—I’M HAVING MY WEAVE MELTED,” explains Lizzo as I wait for her to turn on her camera for our Zoom call. When she does, she’s a vision in blue. Her hair, which is long, side-parted, wavy—fluid, even—and “laid,” as my girlfriends would say, is the colour of sugared almonds. So is her excellent eye makeup, which matches her dress, a body-con slip from her shapewear line, Yitty, in the same shade. “I see my glam squad more than I see my man,” she says wryly. The singer is sitting in her kitchen, skin glossy, the Los Angeles sun illuminating her face as if she’s sitting in front of a wall of ring lights. Not that she needs the extra help.
Within the current landscape of pop and R&B music, few artists lighten the mood as consistently as Lizzo does. In a pantheon of modern chart-toppers that includes Billie Eilish, Dua Lipa, Cardi B, Doja Cat, Olivia Rodrigo and Megan Thee Stallion, to name a few, she’s the woman consistently making a case for positivity—speaking out about societal ills while inspiring her 39-million-plus-strong audience (13 million on Instagram and 26.1 million on TikTok) to look on the bright side rather than despair. She has become the face of self-acceptance goals. The woman in whom other women see themselves and whom they aspire to be like—a modern model of self-actualization. Popular writer and self-proclaimed internet “meme witch” Adrienne Maree Brown called her a “healer.” And Harry Styles famously said, “She’s exactly what you want an artist to be…which is themselves.”
To hear her tell it, becoming Lizzo has been a process in which the evolution of her music has twinned with her own personal transformation, a journey filled with peaks, valleys, dramas, insecurities, heartbreak and, ultimately, victories—all in pursuit of a greater good. With her latest album, Special, which came out last summer, all of her hard-won personal growth converges into one sonic magnum opus.
“For every artist who goes mainstream, it’s like AD and BC, right? As in before and after your breakout moment,” she says. “It’s a very peaceful place for me to be now because I feel like all my projects before this were not in pursuit of fame but in pursuit of telling my story and finding my voice and then, eventually, helping people.” This sense of advocacy is a point that Lizzo returns to frequently during our time together. “If my journey was like ‘I’m making these albums until I make it big, and then what? I won three Grammys; now what? [I’m] critically acclaimed and number one; now what?’ I think I would feel a lot of pressure. Because what is that? I can tell my story and share my music and help people. And it’s great
because now I can do it without having to explain who I am. I never have to go ‘Hi, my name is Lizzo’ ever again. Nah, y’all know who I am. So just enjoy the music. Enjoy the ride.”
Her anthemic single “About Damn Time” soundtracked our summer of re-emergence—the parties, the festivals, the bachelorette nights, the drunken TikTok attempts by the pool. But in Lizzo’s world, pop is not just a bop—it’s a vehicle for changing the world. Can a song do that? Times are complicated. Nevertheless, her mission is clear.
Lizzo began imagining a life as a singer when she was a young girl named Melissa Viviane Jefferson. She was born in Detroit (Taurus sun; Leo rising) smack in the middle of rush hour and moved to Houston at the age of 10. It was there that she had her first encounter with one Beyoncé Giselle Knowles. “The impact that Destiny’s Child had on me making a decision to become an artist was incredible, mostly because I felt like we were so close to it,” she says. “Everyone had their ‘I saw Beyoncé when…’ or ‘I saw Destiny’s Child at this party…’ stories. And that made it seem more accessible. Like, ‘Oh, maybe I can do this too if I work hard enough and have the right people around me.’” And then she saw the group perform. “They had an album-signing event at a Walmart, and I skipped school to go see them. I listened to them sing their gospel medley. I’ve seen Beyoncé live maybe 10 times now, and she continues to give me that feeling,” she adds, eyes wide.
Lizzo says that last June, when Beyoncé dropped her surprise single and an accompanying announcement that a new album was on the way, the news made her go numb. “That excitement never goes away,” she explains. “She doesn’t just put out music for the sake of putting out music—there’s going to be something real, you know what I mean? A teachable moment. Every time I hear her, it’s like, ‘Man, I want to make people feel this way. How can I make people feel this way too?’”
One need only scroll through fan videos tagged #Lizzo on Instagram and TikTok—and they are manifold—to see that she’s already doing it. “I don’t think people are listening. I don’t think people get it,” she says when I ask her about how she perceives her fame. Throughout our chat, this dichotomy—a paradoxical mix of fierce confidence and a seeming lack of belief in the power she wields—keeps coming up. It’s clear that she knows her worth, but there are moments when she seems to wonder if people truly appreciate just how much she’s worth. Her influence is enormous, with TikToks featuring her songs generating more than 4.9 billion views. And her brand now extends to fashion—thanks to her body-inclusive
CELEBRITY ellecanada . com 79
“I can tell my story and share my music and help people. And it’s great because now I can do it without having to explain who I am. I never have to go ‘Hi, my name is Lizzo.”’
shapewear—and television, with her popular Prime Video series, Lizzo’s Watch Out for the Big Grrrls, in which she searches for backup dancers with curvier, more relatable bodies. Both projects have been widely celebrated for challenging narrow, age-old beauty standards—ideals that influenced Lizzo’s own self-confidence growing up and her desire to lift up other marginalized women now.
When she was starting out as a young singer and rapper, she found her comfort zone performing in girl groups (one called The Chalice and another called Grrrl Prty) rather than as a solo act because she felt awkward about her weight. “I think it was more of, like, an insecurity,” she says. “Nearly every star I saw onstage was thinner and light-skinned. They didn’t look like me. Sure, there were women like Missy Elliott and Queen Latifah. But they were exceptions to the rule. I always felt like even if the song is great, people wouldn’t want to hear it coming from me. So I thought, ‘If I have other people onstage too, that will take the focus off me a little bit.’”
For young Melissa, a pop star made her think, “Man, I wish I looked like that.” She says she admired Rihanna’s style so much that she was inspired to get her first weave. “I know people want to look like me now,” she says. “But I’m talking about what it was like in my formative years. I wasn’t really set up to believe that I was desirable. To me, being a pop star—part of it is that people either want to be you or be with you. And I didn’t feel like I had any of the qualities [I needed for that to be a reality].”
So, she decided to change that. “And I did,” she says simply.
Lizzo credits the people around her with being the making of her. “In doing the ‘fake it ’til you make it’ method, I began attracting a lot of people who thought I was beautiful,” she says. One of them was her best friend, whom she met when she moved to Minneapolis to pursue her singing career. “She’s always been like, ‘You look good; you look beautiful.’ In the past, a lot of people were my friends because they knew that having me around would make them feel better about themselves. But she genuinely thought I was beautiful and helped me believe it and verbalize it out loud.”
Suddenly, Lizzo wasn’t faking it anymore. “I was like, ‘Oh, no, my [beauty] is real,’” she continues. “And I think that’s an important thing. You start attracting people who see you the way you see yourself. Anyone around you is going to notice how you view yourself.”
At the moment, the person around her is her mother, Shari Johnson-Jefferson, who walks into the room while we’re talking. Lizzo’s father, Michael Jefferson, died in 2009. In a special cameo appearance last June, Johnson-Jefferson introduced her daughter for the singer’s first time hosting Saturday Night Live. “We’re very close,” says Lizzo. “But I don’t get to see her as often as I’d like.”
There’s also a new man in the picture, actor Myke Wright, and Lizzo appeared to make the relationship Instagram official when she posted a photo of them together on the pink carpet for the premiere of Lizzo’s Watch Out for the Big Grrrls The slide-show post also included a sweet photo of her hand, gloved in hot pink (because, hello, it’s Lizzo), holding his. Did I mention the hand had a ring on it? It set her comments alight with engagement rumours. When I ask her about the relationship, though, she deftly swerves. “It’s a bromance,” she says with a laugh.
Lizzo admits that she’s come a long way in her relationship with social media but adds that being part of a generation that grew up before Facebook, Twitter and Instagram (she’s 34) helped. “I think I have a very healthy relationship with the digital world,” she says. “I was born before it was everywhere, before it was an official news source and before it was an obligation or a necessity in your career. I grew up right before it [became a way for kids] to harass you in school and cyberbully you in class. I just missed that.”
In August 2021, she made headlines when she took to Instagram Live, responding tearfully to racist and fat-phobic comments she’d received after dropping the single “Rumors,” a collaboration with Cardi B: “I’m putting so much loving energy into the world...and sometimes I feel like the world don’t love me back,” she says, wiping her eyes. “It doesn’t matter how much positive energy you put into the world—you’re still going to have people who have something mean to say about you.”
Today, her views are much more pragmatic. “I don’t need social media; social media needs me. Social media literally needs people to function. I don’t need to go on the internet to feel better about stuff anymore. I have a therapist. I have best friends. I have an amazing team around me who I can talk to. I got love.”
She describes her current approach to social media much like she does her mission with music: “There are millions of people going through what I’m going through who don’t have
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“I don’t need to go on the internet to feel better about stuff anymore. I have a therapist. I have best friends. I have an amazing team around me who I can talk to. I got love.”
DRESS AND GLOVES (GUCCI)
DRESS (CUSTOM-MADE DI PETSA), HEELS (ACNE STUDIOS) AND BRACELET (BOUCHERON)
“I wasn’t really set up to believe that I was desirable. To me, being a pop star—part of it is that people either want to be you or be with you.”
an outlet, who don’t have a support system, who don’t have the financial freedom to access certain things [that will make them] feel better. I don’t want people to have to suffer like I do. If I can give somebody a cheat code or if I can give somebody the recipe so they can make their own sauce, I’m gonna do it.”
At the moment, her feed has also become a very effective shop window for Yitty, which she hopes will help the fashion industry become a more welcoming space for women of size. She says she has had too many experiences of being on-set for fashion shoots and “bursting out of the samples.” With Yitty, she hopes to normalize a system in which clothes are designed with bigger bodies in mind rather than size-6 garments being scaled up. I share with her my own frustration with producing shoots featuring curvier models—because sample sizes are criminally small, we have to use custom-made clothing that readers will most likely not be able to find in shops. “I’ve had a lot of shoots where people have made outfits from scratch for me,” she says. “And I’m not mad at it. Thank you. But what about the millions of people who are my size or bigger and can’t get access to chic and glamorous clothing? I don’t want to be the token big girl for the fashion world. I want to open the door. I want this for everybody.”
She decided to start with shapewear because it’s the most triggering. (It’s also booming, with a wave of women-led labels—from Kim Kardashian’s Skims to the feminist-leaning Heist—creating undergarments for all shapes and sizes.) For Lizzo, the decision was bigger than business. It was personal. “More than any piece of clothing, shapewear can make people feel a certain way about their body, and most of the time, it’s bad,” she says. “I want to revolutionize shapewear. I want to change how people think when they hear the word ‘snatched.’ I don’t want people to ever have to deal with a girdle again in their lives.”
It’s hard to talk about Lizzo’s music without talking about her commitment to advocacy. And I can understand why she’s so vocal about it. Pop music can easily be appreciated on a superficial level—a cute beat to shake your booty to. But Lizzo’s light, catchy, feel-good hooks are deceptive. There’s a radical, zeitgeisty undercurrent running through her happy lyrics. She says she reached a turning point with her music in 2015 when she wrote “My Skin” after a young Black man was shot and killed by police a block away from her house in Minneapolis. “People were out there in the streets, protesting and gathering and organizing and speaking out for this man,” she says. “And it inspired me—like, ‘Wow, I want to write a song to help people who are experiencing this feeling.’ Because it had a message, I felt like it should be heard by millions of
people, you know? So I think I had a moment when I was very happy being an indie artist; but after I wrote ‘My Skin,’ I was like, ‘Oh, music can actually help people.’ If I can be that person, then why run away from that purpose?”
Lizzo recorded her new album, Special, in her house in L.A. during lockdown, whittling down its final lineup of tracks from the hundreds she wrote. “I have so many songs at this point— some are my favourites,” she says. “But I’m not putting them on the album if they don’t serve the greater purpose. And I think the greater purpose is ‘What do I need to say right now that can help people forever?’”
She was thinking about social justice (“The rights of Black people are what I’ve been focused on since the beginning”), climate change and the growing population of people struggling with mental-health issues. “It seems like we are hit with traumatic events every week,” says Lizzo. “And one doesn’t outrank the other. They’re all equally tragic, equally terrifying, equally traumatic.” Following the Supreme Court’s repeal of Roe v. Wade, she announced that she was making donations to Planned Parenthood and a series of abortion funds. “I feel like the human brain is only capable of fixating on one thing at a time,” she says. “So even on a biological level, thinking about everything we need to fix makes my head hurt. And it’s gotten to the point where there are so many things wrong. Why don’t we talk about just starting over?”
Sitting in her house in 2020, she found solace in making music, an experience she also felt conflicted about. “It was hard for me to find meaning in being an entertainer while people were dying at a high rate,” she says. “I had to remember that when we came out of lockdown, people would be coming out of a depression and that the end of lockdown would not signify the end of their mental-health struggles. So I wanted to make music that people could use as a soundtrack [that would help them] survive. That was the driver for this album.” The music is undeniably upbeat and dance-challenge-friendly. But the lyrics have a depth and honesty that seem to draw on years of therapy. “All these incredible songs are giving people the language to express themselves and have a release after everything they’ve experienced,” she says. She wants her music to not only pull you out of a bad mood but also give you a playlist to protest to.
“I spent years being ashamed,” says Lizzo. “It took a lot of work for me to feel worthy of being in this place—to feel worthy of being a force to be reckoned with.” And now that she’s there, she’s determined to bring a whole world of women with her. It’s about damn time.
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“The end of lockdown [does not] signify the end of [people’s] mental-health struggles. So I wanted to make music that people could use as a soundtrack [that would help them] survive.”
DRESS AND GLOVES (GUCCI) AND HEELS (CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN) FOR DETAILS SEE SHOPPING GUIDE. HAIRSTYLIST, SHELBY SWAIN; MAKEUP ARTIST, ALEXX MAYO; MANICURIST, ERI ISHIZU (OPUS); TAILOR, HASMIK KOURINIAN; EDITORIAL PRODUCER, RACHEL OLIVIER; STYLISTS’ ASSISTANT, GRACE CLARKE
WHITE SUIT, BLACK SUIT AND HAT (GIORGIO ARMANI NEVE). OPPOSITE PAGE: COAT, CROSSBODY BAG, SKI GOGGLES, SUNGLASSES AND SANDALS (GUCCI) AND SOCKS (STYLIST’S OWN).
ALPINE ADVENTURES
WHETHER YOU’RE HITTING THE SLOPES OR SIMPLY PREPARING FOR GLACIAL WEATHER, UP THE ANTE AND EXPERIMENT WITH MONOGRAMMED ACCESSORIES, STYLISH PADDED TROUSERS AND HEAD-TURNING EYEWEAR.
PHOTOGRAPHER LULU MCARDLE STYLIST GEORGIA MEDLEY
WHITE SUIT, BLACK SUIT AND HAT (GIORGIO ARMANI NEVE). OPPOSITE PAGE: PUFFER COAT, JUMPSUIT, BALACLAVA, SCARF, GLOVES AND SKI GOGGLES (DIOR) AND BODYSUIT (MISCREANTS).
COAT AND BAG (PRADA), LEG WARMERS (RASHHIIID) AND SKI GOGGLES (CHIMI).
OPPOSITE PAGE: JUMPSUIT, JERSEY, HEELS, WHITE BACKPACK, METALLIC HANDBAG, EARRINGS AND SCARF (CHANEL) AND BIKINI (STYLIST’S OWN).
FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE.
MODEL, KAROLINA (KULT); MAKEUP ARTIST,
SOGOL RAZI (CHARLOTTE TILBURY); HAIRSTYLIST, JOHANNA CREE BROWN (GARY REPRESENTS/SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL SESSION LABEL); MANICURIST, MADDY AYERS; STYLIST’S ASSISTANT, GAL KLEIN
JUMPSUIT (STELLA MCCARTNEY), SHIRT (BLANK ATELIER), BELT AND AIRPOD CASE (SAKS POTTS), KEY RING (KERNE.MILK), BOOTS (STAND STUDIO) AND EARRINGS (ARTO)
OPPOSITE PAGE: COAT, JUMPSUIT, SWEATER, LEG WARMERS AND BOOTS (HERMÈS) AND EARRING (ARTO)
FULL FORCE
CONTRASTING SILHOUETTES MEET MILITARY-INSPIRED STREETWEAR TO BRING STRENGTH AND POWER TO STRIKING WINTER STYLES.
PHOTOGRAPHER MATTIAS BJÖRKLUND STYLIST HILDA SANDSTRÖM
JACKET (ISABEL MARANT), BLOUSE (ACNE STUDIOS), PANTS (THE ATTICO), UNDERWEAR (CDLP), AIRPOD CASE (SAKS POTTS), BOOTS (CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN), EARRING (ARTO) AND RING (SIMUERO)
JACKET AND SKIRT (PRADA), TIGHTS (FALKE) AND EARRING (PANCONESI)
JACKET (ISABEL MARANT), SHIRT, BAG AND BOOTS (BOTTEGA VENETA) AND EARRINGS (JADE CROPPER)
PUFFER JACKET (LUNDHAGS), LEATHER JACKET (SAKS POTTS), JEANS (JADE CROPPER), PUMPS (CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE) AND KEY RING (KERNE.MILK) FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE. MODEL, ANA ELISA (BRITON/CANVAS); MAKEUP ARTIST, NIHAL MOHAMED (LUNDLUND); HAIRSTYLIST, MARTINA SENKE (LUNDLUND); STYLIST’S ASSISTANT, MIRANDA LANDER; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT, MEHRAN PAKGOBAR; CASTING, ALEXANDRA SANDBERG (LUNDLUND)
SHOW and TELL
A new fashion program brings Canadian Indigenous designers to the world stage.
By TRUC NGUYEN
WHITE MILANO, a biannual ready-to-wear and accessories trade show in Italy, draws more than 30,000 visitors a year, including buyers from leading global retailers like Galeries Lafayette, Selfridges and Lane Crawford. Over 400 brands—ranging from emerging start-ups to established fashion houses—are expected to exhibit at the latest edition of the concept trade show, which is taking place this February in Milan’s Tortona design district. This year, among the international brands, you’ll also find the work of Indigenous Canadian designers, like Lesley Hampton and Evan Ducharme—two of the seven designers (and brands) who make up the inaugural cohort of the new IFA Trade Program developed by Indigenous Fashion Arts (IFA), a Toronto-based non-profit arts organization.
A three-year partnership between IFA and White Milano, the program will bring groups of Indigenous Canadian designers to the sustainability-focused trade show each season during Milan Fashion Week—at no cost to the designers. Supported by the Department of Canadian Heritage, the Canadian embassy in Italy and the Canada Council for the Arts, the IFA Trade Program aims to increase the visibility of Indigenous Canadian designers and artists and connect participants to influential audiences and retailers from around the world.
“Fashion shows are, in the mainstream sense, very expensive to do,” says Sage Paul, co-founder and executive and artistic director of IFA. “They’re commercial marketing endeavours that the designers take on.” In contrast, she notes, a trade show “gives the designers direct access to buyers...who will hopefully be able to put the designers’ work in their retail shops. That is something that’s very important to us.”
An urban Denesuliné tskwe and member of English River First Nation, Paul launched what was then known as Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto (IFWTO) in 2018 with co-founders Kerry Swanson and Heather Haynes. “I had been working with a group of fellow artists and designers in the city, and we started a collective that was more [focused on] the creation of work,” says Paul. “I had gone to fashion school and really wanted to see my work presented on a stage...[and] see it recognized in an artistic context as opposed to a purely commercial [one].” The fashion week was a success, and in 2022, IFWTO incorporated as a non-profit and rebranded with a new name, Indigenous Fashion Arts, in part to reflect the organization’s growing work and initiatives outside of the successful flagship event. “We’ve done a collaboration with Simons, and we’ve done a couple of values-based entrepreneurship programs,” says Paul.
The partnership with White Milano came about through an IFA board member’s connection at the Canadian embassy; this mutual contact introduced the two like-minded organizations.
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COURTESY OF SAGE PAUL (S. PAUL), ALEX WABER (SECTION 35), CATHIE ARCHBOULD (ROBYN MCLEOD) & ARTSY LENS (NIIO PERKINS DESIGNS)
SAGE PAUL
“Typically, I’m a little wary of mainstream trade shows and marketplaces, simply because a lot of the time, the focus is on more commercially driven items, fast fashion, trends and this type of thing,” says Paul. “But White Milano is actually focused on craftsmanship, creativity and the expression behind the work, and that really aligns with our values—we want to celebrate the cultural expressions and traditional knowledge of our communities.”
Paul sees White Milano as a marketplace where participating designers’ works—some of which are one of a kind or “pieces that you might see in an art gallery”—can be sold. “[This is] because it’s specifically [centred on] items that are of a higher quality, that are luxury, that are more couture,” says Paul. The inaugural cohort of the IFA Trade Program—Ducharme, Hampton, Niio Perkins Designs, Robyn McLeod, Section 35, She Was a Free Spirit and Victoria’s Arctic Fashion—was carefully selected by IFA to include market-ready brands that also represent the diversity of Indigenous people in Canada.
“We want to make sure that First Nations, Inuit and Métis communities are represented [and that] we’re showing diversity from across the country: people who are in urban settings, people who are rural, people who are on reserves,” says Paul.
Beyond potential sales, the luxury trade show offers a unique opportunity for IFA staff and designers to talk directly to fashion buyers and industry insiders about topics like appropriation and how to work with Indigenous designers. “It’s very important to open up this market development for any business or arts entrepreneur if [we] want to sustain [ourselves] in today’s world,” says Paul. Through the process, program participants are also able to learn more about import and export laws and B2B protocols, meet with potential Italian suppliers and receive mentorship and, potentially, media coverage for their collections.
“The work that we’re doing is about creating opportunities,” says Paul. “[It’s about] programming that supports Indigenous designers and traditional practices in fashion.”
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SECTION 35
ROBYN MCLEOD
NIIO PERKINS DESIGNS
Mindful in Maui
By JOANNA FOX
IN NATIVE HAWAIIAN LORE , Maui is the name of the Polynesian demigod who’s responsible for creating this island chain. He’s known as a character who likes to play tricks; the legend goes that when fishing with his brothers, he used his hook— manaiakalani —to catch the ocean floor and told them that it was a big fish so they would pull harder. He did this several times, which brought land to the surface and formed Hawaii’s eight main islands. Over time, he has come to represent the strength, resilience and cleverness of the Hawaiian people.
The creation myth lends a healthy dose of magic—and I’m not alone in being under this place’s spell. On average, two million people visit Maui each year, and tourism generates 80 percent of the local economy. Hawaii’s second-largest island is just over 75 kilometres long and 40 kilometres wide, which means there are a lot of people in a small space full of vulnerable ecosystems. This fragility is why hotels and touristcentric companies are making a concerted effort to educate visitors on everything from history to botany to reforestation to reef health and encourage them to care for this stunning land while also offering unparalleled guest experiences in a setting unlike any other.
The first thing I notice when I arrive in Maui is the island’s light—a golden hue that’s present all afternoon, as if the sun is always about to set. The rust-coloured sand is a striking contrast to the landscape, and the deep-blue water laps the shore like a warm, salty balm. The ground under my feet is a marvel in its own right: The island is made up of two shield volcanoes, which are so named for having a low profile that resembles a warrior’s shield. Haleakala, or the East Maui volcano, peaks at over 3,000 metres above sea level and forms about two-thirds of the island, while the 1,700-metre-high West Maui volcano, Mauna Kahalawai, makes up the other third. This mountainous landscape is responsible for several microclimates and endless vantage points offering spectacular views.
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How the local tourism industry is combining luxury with cultural education in this little piece of paradise.
FAIRMONT KEA LANI
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF FAIRMONT KEA LANI
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Between visiting world-renowned surfing spots (like the Jaws surf break on the North Shore), driving the road to Hana in East Maui for its waterfalls, rainforest and rugged, untouched coastline, hiking in the upcountry region of Haleakala and watching humpback whales breaching in the distance, it seems the worst thing about Maui might be that there are too many things to do.
A good jumping-off point—and one of the most spectacular spots to stay on the island—is the luxurious beachfront resort community of Wailea, located on Maui’s southern leeward coast. All joined by an oceanside walking path, the area’s five crescent-shaped public beaches have something for everyone, from wave-heavy open areas that are great for body surfing to calmer protected coves that are perfect for paddle-boarding.
(For The White Lotus fans, this is also where you’ll find the Four Seasons resort where the first season of the acclaimed show was shot.) I’m thrilled to make this community my home base for a few days and experience first-hand three of Wailea’s top hotels. The Fairmont Kea Lani, Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort and Grand Wailea Maui all combine world-class accommodations, services and experiences with thoughtful initiatives that promote the importance of respecting and understanding Hawaiian culture.
The Fairmont Kea Lani has recently renovated stylish, spacious and fully equipped two- and three-bedroom twostorey oceanfront villas so that families can spread out with everything they need for longer stays. My villa—which has its own plunge pool and an outdoor dining area with a
barbecue to boot—is a stone’s throw from both the beach and the hotel’s signature award-winning restaurant, Ko, which offers a mouth-watering local sustainable menu rooted in Hawaiian tradition. The food reflects the many cultures that have influenced the island’s cuisine over time—including Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Korean and Japanese—with dishes like ahi tuna tataki on shrimp toast, local-lavenderhoney, sesame-seed and macadamia-nut crusted shrimp, pork-belly bao buns with pickled Maui onion and pork chops with Filipino banana ketchup.
Kapono Kaumanu, the hotel’s cultural adviser, helps curate activities that get guests to further connect with their surroundings. One that I can highly recommend is the outrigger-canoe experience: paddling out on the water in a six-seat 14-metre canoe with a lateral support float that gives the boat extra stability in the open ocean. When I step onto the beach in the early-morning light, I’m met by the Fairmont’s two local guides, Ralph and Sol, who explain to me and my fellow paddlers that this is how the Polynesians first arrived on Hawaiian shores and that the canoe was an essential form of transportation to get to remote areas or between the islands. Before heading out, we’re taught how to get in and out of the intimidating 150-kilogram vessel, paddling techniques and basic commands in Hawaiian (imua to go forward and lawa to stop). As we prepare to run alongside the canoe into the water, Sol recites a customary chant to ensure safe passage, asking permission from his ancestors to enter the water. Gliding out into the surf, our paddles cut through the waves in unison with the rhythmic sound of Sol’s commands.
ANDAZ MAUI AT WAILEA RESORT
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FAIRMONT KEA LANI’S OUTRIGGER-CANOE EXPERIENCE
LIFESTYLE
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF FAIRMONT KEA LANI (OUTRIGGER CANOE), ANDAZ MAUI AT WAILEA RESORT & GRAND WAILEA MAUI
Back on solid ground, it’s time to drive up to the Haleakala highlands, about three-quarters of the way up the volcano. The Fairmont has partnered with the Skyline Conservation Initiative to create the Rooted in Aloha Reforestation Initiative, which helps restore the native forests on the slopes of Haleakala and educates guests about Maui’s precarious ecosystem. “Eucalyptus trees were planted on Maui in the late 1800s, and though pretty, they are monocultures, which means they choke out almost all other native plant life, and also suck up plenty of water,” explains Joe Imhoff, the man in charge of the initiative. “More than 80 percent of the native forests here are gone, and what we’re trying to do is grab seeds from the closest remnant trees—like native koa, sandalwood and ‘ohi‘a. We started with one tree, and now we’re going to hit 20,000 native plants. We’re not just planting a garden out here—we’re planting a forest system.” It’s a visitor-supported conservation initiative, so you can directly donate or head up there and plant some trees yourself—which is what I do. (It’s not all huffing and puffing, though—there’s also a zipline experience on offer that provides an aerial view of the forest’s progress.) After walking under the lush new canopy to find the perfect spots to plant our koa trees, I kneel down and dig deep in the dark-red soil. These koa will thrive long after we’re gone, which is what drives Imhoff to continue his mission. “If we do this right,” he tells me with a smile, “it’s only going to get better beyond our lifetime.”
The next day, I make my way to the opposite end of the beach to check out the very chic Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, which has a game-changing lobby overlooking the ocean and
the infinity pools below (there are three, but who’s counting?), the latter of which cascade all the way down to the beach. From my newly renovated, ultra-modern Ilikai penthouse villa—which is bigger than my actual home—I step out onto the balcony for a luxurious dip in a glass-bottomed salt-water plunge pool that overlooks the ocean.
Though you can always dine at the excellent in-house restaurant, Ka’ana Kitchen, which sources produce from 15 local farms, the hotel’s more immersive meal experience, the Feast at Mokapu, is not to be missed. One of the island’s most authentic luaus, it was created in close collaboration with Kalikolehua Storer, the property’s Hawaiian-culture specialist. Storer wanted guests to see more than basic hula dancing and go on a historical journey that reflects a sense of place. It’s a lively way to learn about things like the history of the Polynesians first finding their way to Maui by way of celestial navigation, the taro farmers who cultivated the land 800 years ago and Hawaiian values, which focus on a love of, connection to and kuleana (responsibility) for the land. We sit among other guests, captivated by the dancers and the accompanying three-piece band on the grassy hilltop oceanfront stage, the sun setting behind them. In between performances, we feast on traditional dishes that contain local ingredients, like kula onion, taro and fern, as well as a scene-stealing pua’a kalua: a whole pig that’s been rubbed in smoked Hawaiian salt and roasted all day in an underground steam oven.
My final stop, the Grand Wailea Maui—which is the largest resort along this stretch and smack dab in the middle of the action—has been in the luxury-hospitality game since 1991.
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GRAND WAILEA MAUI
The design of the awe-inspiring 16-hectare property was shaped by the vision of the resort’s original developer, Japanese businessman Takeshi Sekiguchi, who was inspired by Maui’s abundant water, flowers, trees and artwork. To this day, the hotel has stayed true to its original concept, with multiple pool areas (including kid-heaven rapids and waterslides), an abundance of flower varieties and more than 50 types of trees on the property and one of the largest private art collections (including several sculptures by famed Colombian artist Fernando Bottero, which are on display in the open-air lobby) in the state.
“I can take a guest anywhere on the resort and tell a story,” Kalei ‘Uweko’olani, Grand Wailea’s cultural programming manager and leadership educator, tells me as we walk around the grounds. She points out a striking tall statue of the first ruler of Hawaii, King Kamehameha I, that stands in the front garden overlooking the property as a symbol of both honour and protection. She also explains that from a bird’s-eye view, the resort is shaped like a honu (sea turtle), a sacred creature in Hawaiian culture, and shares some specifics about its design, like the fact that all 776 rooms impressively have a sunset view. The lush gardens produce fresh ingredients, including taro, breadfruit and ginger, for the hotel’s signature restaurant Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a—which is another name for the triggerfish, the state fish of Hawaii—as well as for treatments at its spa, Mohalu by Spa Grande. Although there are plenty of rooms and suites at this sprawling property, I stay in one of its exclusive Ho‘olei Villas—mine is a fully equipped two-storey three-bedroom unit (with its own elevator for those with mobility issues) perched on a hillside that overlooks the ocean and has the best sunset view I’ve ever seen.
On my last day, I head out at 5 a.m. to embark on the Kai Kanani sunrise snorkel, a catamaran charter that visits snorkelling spots at the crack of dawn, when the water is calm and no one else is around, and includes a full breakfast. The first stop is Molokini, a partially submerged volcanic crater that’s teeming with sea life. The deep-blue water is all the more striking against a backdrop of earth-toned coral glowing in the early-morning light and schools of multicoloured fish. It’s the healthiest-looking
coral reef I’ve seen in a while, so I ask David Glenn Taylor, the tour company’s marketing director, about the state of the surrounding ocean. He explains that the coral in this area is in a stabilized state thanks to a number of conservation factors as well as a push to educate tourists on the importance of avoiding touching it and always wearing reef-safe sunscreen.
Our final stop is the aptly named Turtle Town, an offshore spot where long-protected Hawaiian green sea turtles swim by your side, unbothered by onlookers as they make their way to the surface, popping their heads out of the water for air. Later, as we’re parting ways, Taylor tells me that the humpback whales that migrate here from Alaska are beginning to arrive for mating season. “The males put on a real show,” he says. “They breach and smash each other in a display of male bravado. When they’re near, you can actually put your head underwater and hear them singing.” I try to imagine this incredible sound but fall short. There is so much I’ve had the privilege to experience here and so much more to come back for, which makes it feel all the more important to cherish and respect this singular place.
LOCAL FLAVOURS
Beyond Wailea’s hotel restaurants, great food options abound in the area. Just as popular with locals as it is with visitors, ISLAND GOURMET MARKET makes a variety of ready-made meals, like gyozas, sushi, salads, sandwiches and breakfast items, including Hawaiian favourite Loco Moco—a hefty beef patty, two eggs and onion over rice, the whole thing doused in brown gravy. Awardwinning chef Peter Merriman is the m astermind behind MONKEYPOD ’s thoughtful, local-produce-driven cuisine, which puts goods from Hawaiian farmers, brewers and artisans front and centre. The varied menu, which includes grilled-fish tacos, hand-tossed pizzas and freshly caught seafood, draws lineups every night. Although MATTEO’S OSTERIA’s strip-mall location might be lacking the Maui view you’re after, this locals’ secret exceeds expectations thanks to chef Matteo Mistura’s top-notch Italian cuisine—including handmade pasta and out-of-this-world meatballs (made with ground turkey, chia seeds, quinoa, kale, Parmesan and flax seeds)—and a well-curated wine list. For a little something sweet, head to the nearby Kihei location of ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE and choose a flavour of syrup—there are 50, including passion fruit, pineapple and pickled mango—to have poured over ice that’s been shaved using a unique technique that makes it super soft and melt-in-your-mouth good.
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PHOTOGRAPHY, ANNA KIM (KAI KANANI
& COURTESY OF
SUNRISE SNORKEL)
GRAND WAILEA MAUI
KAI KANANI SUNRISE SNORKEL
LIFESTYLE
GRAND WAILEA MAUI
READY TO FEEL YOUR BEST? IT ALL STARTS WITH COLLAGEN
We found the perfect supplement for every lifestyle need.
IN THE SEARCH FOR ALL THAT IS WORTHY IN THE WORLD of wellness, studied experts and in-the-know icons have tapped into the power of collagen. It may sound like a beauty buzzword, but it’s so much more than that. Collagen is a crucial component in allowing our bodies to perform at their peak, which is exactly why this essential protein is found pretty much everywhere—in our tissues, ligaments, bones, skin, muscles... you name it. Its structural responsibilities? Countless.
Even though collagen is one of the most abundant substances in our bodies, its production—like many of our internal functions—decelerates as we get older. This decline starts at age 25, and by the time we reach 45, our endogenous collagen formation is limited by up to 50 percent. Add in a whole host of other lifestyle factors that contribute to collagen loss—rigorous exercise, chronic stress, chemical exposure—and there’s good reason why so many of us are turning to a collagen supplement. Whether you are trying to reduce wrinkles, heal your gut, manage joint pain, maintain elasticity or grow stronger hair and nails, collagen is the natural answer.
That’s where Organika comes in. Offering the best—and number-one-selling—collagen powders on the market, Organika creates clean, highly effective products that are well regarded for their great versatility. The Canadian brand’s guiding principle? There’s a collagen for everyone. It has taken its Enhanced Collagen line and improved it by offering multi-blends. Think of it as combining your wellness goals into one supplement and drinking it up! Read on as we deep-dive into three of Organika’s most popular collagen blends, which serve you where you need it most.
THE GLOW-GETTER:
ORGANIKA ENHANCED COLLAGEN PURE BEAUTY
Everyone’s after that elusive lit-from-within glow—it’s the ultimate marker of good health. Achieving an all-natural radiance is the goal behind Organika’s Enhanced Collagen Pure Beauty. Packed with gut-, skin- and joint-supporting collagen sourced from pasture-raised, antibiotic- and hormone-free cattle, this beauty-focused blend was developed with a bevy
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ORGANIKA MARINE COLLAGEN
Perfect for the pescatarians among us, Organika’s Marine Collagen powder is chock full of 15 essential and non-essential amino acids that will boost your overall health. It’s made from wild-caught cod, pollock and haddock from the North Atlantic, and it benefits every corner of the body: It revitalizes, firms and smooths skin, strengthens hair and nails and helps maintain healthy joints. It even includes a hit of ultra-important lysine to increase your own collagen formation.
THE ANTI-AGING AMPLIFIER:
ORGANIKA SEA BEAUTY
Take everything that’s favourable in Organika’s Marine Collagen and add organic Irish sea moss, and you’ve got the magic that is Sea Beauty. With every serving containing 0.5 grams of the anti-inflammatory superfood sea moss as well as cell-protecting astaxanthin, the result is a synergistic cocktail of skin-enhancing perks. Best mixed into a coldpressed juice or delicious smoothie, just one tablespoon daily can deliver improved skin elasticity and, antioxidant support as well as prevent fine lines and wrinkles. This one is a legit game-changer!
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X ORGANIKA
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF ORGANIKA (PRODUCTS) & ISTOCK IMAGE (MODEL)
1. MARINE COLLAGEN POWDER ($55, ORGANIKA.COM)
2. ENHANCED COLLAGEN PURE BEAUTY ($41.50, ORGANIKA.COM)
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3. SEA BEAUTY ($49, ORGANIKA.COM).
THE RECIPE of LIFE
By AMAN DOSANJ
SHORTLY AFTER FILMING SEASON 15 OF TOP CHEF in the spring of 2017, Fatima Ali was diagnosed with Ewing sarcoma, a mean-spirited rare pediatric cancer that she cheekily dubbed “little white boy cancer” on The Ellen DeGeneres Show. In late September 2018, the once-thriving 29-year-old, who was on the cusp of becoming food famous, received the devastating news that her tumour had metastasized, leaving her with only 12 short months (at best) to live.
Before her life was callously interrupted by cancer, Ali had graduated from the Culinary Institute of America as class valedictorian in 2011 and learned the symphony of service in bustling French and Italian kitchens in New York. After becoming the first Pakistani woman to win Chopped in 2012, the purpose-driven chef came to see food as a means of sparking community change—for feeding the homeless hollow-cheeked children with hunger-dulled eyes in her native Pakistan. She told herself that fame would supercharge the good she could do. In the end, she realized how unimportant the personal benchmark of stardom actually was to that because she simply ran out of time.
Rather than surrender to the riddles of “why?” as the cloud of death followed her, Ali hatched a rather ambitious plan from her bed in San Marino, Calif. “I’m contemplating writing a short book or a collection of essays or something,” she posted on Instagram. “Question is: would you read it? What kinds of things would you want to learn about me, if anything? Also, answers can be: fuck no, I won’t read it…K thanks xoxo.”
Ali’s goal was simple: to live the rest of her abbreviated life to the fullest by travelling the world, going on a safari and trying out the dreamy restaurants on her expansive bucket list (which included culinary heavyweights like Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, Gaggan in Bangkok and Noma in Copenhagen). She hired food and travel writer Tarajia Morrell to document her final months so she could be present without the burden of writing.
“Little did I know that [Fatima] had taken such a severe turn for the worse,” Morrell tells me from her home in New York. “Her family and the doctors were trying to figure out how to [best] manage her pain so she could enjoy the last year of her life. But it became apparent that the pain was so unrelenting, and she was just so unwell, that [the trip] wasn’t possible.” The parameters—and urgent purpose—of the book rapidly changed. Far from the wished-for scenes of idyllic globe-trotting, Ali’s Savor: A Chef’s Hunger for More was born from an unusual week of mesmerizing storytelling—and tough conversations—in room 435 at UCLA’s Medical Center in Santa Monica, with Morrell, her “hired witness,” in attendance.
Four years later, it’s not the first-time author who is warmly staring back at me via video call but her grief-stricken mother, Farezeh Durrani, and we’re talking about last October’s release of Ali’s much-anticipated memoir. “[Fatima] was very clear in her head that she didn’t want to write about her cancer or some typical memoir. She wanted this to be, as she called it, an ‘honest book,’” explains Durrani from Lahore, Pakistan. With tales about everything from Ali’s unconventional kitchen
106 ellecanada . com PHOTOGRAPHY, PHIL PROVENCIO (F. ALI)
Top Chef favourite FATIMA ALI died at the age of 29. Now, her legacy—and hunger for more—lives on in a heartwrenching posthumous memoir.
career to her queer Muslim identity, Savor bravely chronicles painful—and inconvenient—truths that are often easier for our shared South Asian cultures to ignore or sweep under the rug than confront for fear of judgment from the wider community.
“Facing honesty is very difficult; it is painful and can ruffle feathers,” says Durrani. “First, you [must] acknowledge lots of things about yourself.” This includes how 10-year-old Ali was molested by their family’s “loyal” but deceptively cunning driver shortly after her mother remarried in Lahore. “When I found out about it, obviously I was mortified and devastated. But honestly, I really didn’t do anything beyond that—I never really got her help,” Durrani recalls with remorse. “I never understood how deeply wounded and scarred she was because of that horrid experience, and we never spoke of it again ’til the end, when she was dying. One of the things Fatima asked me was ‘Mom, why didn’t you get help for me?’ And I had no answer for her. That’s something I regret.”
Durrani hopes this book will challenge dogmatic cultural and societal beliefs, break down outdated traditional notions of gender-based roles and shift the way we think. “In hindsight, I have so many regrets because I wish I [had been] more aware. I wish I [had] confronted more. I wish I [had been] brave. I wish I had [had] more strength,” she says. “If I could go back and change things, I promise you I would do everything so differently now. I would hold on to every moment I have with her instead of [wasting] time. [Fatima] gifted all of us with something very precious through this book: a tangible way [to remember] who she was, how she lived her life and the lessons she [left for] us, which [are] about cutting out the noise and focusing on what really matters.” For Durrani, this begins and ends with asking “Was my child a kind, hard-working, genuine individual?”
Through Ali’s active passing, it’s clear that every conversation about death—and its crippling inevitability—should be an invitation to talk about the joys of living, the quality of our relationships and, ultimately, how we choose to live our one valuable life. “This book is the only way I can think of to replace the restaurant I dreamt of opening: a vehicle to close the gap between colours and faiths, contradict assumptions, teach people tolerance and curiosity about my beloved Pakistan through their taste buds,” writes Ali. “This is my way of saying goodbye, of letting go, of hanging on. This is my way of being free—of judgment, or pain, or cancer—and leading with love even as I take my leave.” Although sadly not in Ali’s lifetime, her beautiful spirit—and hunger for more—lives on through a final parting gift: the Chef Fatima Foundation, a non-profit created to spread joy through food, feed the hungry, promote Pakistani food and help aspiring chefs—especially brown women—find their way in the male-dominated culinary profession.
During my intimate conversation with Durrani in late November, what struck me the most was how compiling this book stripped her bare. With honesty, she tells me that there is never anything to gain from losing a child. But still, this heartbroken mother is desperately trying to live each moment moving forward, guided by love, compassion and forgiveness as her wise “Tatu” had asked of her. “I [have never] felt as brave, free [and] fearless as I do now in my entire life, and I have to say [that] these are all gifts my daughter left me with,” she says proudly. “[Fatima] gave me the strength I needed to trust myself, believe in myself [and] forgive myself—[it’s] pretty special when your child is the one you learn from. And I’m grateful for whatever time I had with her.”
FOOD ellecanada . com 107
“THIS IS MY WAY OF SAYING GOODBYE, OF LETTING GO, OF HANGING ON. THIS IS MY WAY OF BEING FREE—OF JUDGMENT, OR PAIN, OR CANCER—AND LEADING WITH LOVE EVEN AS I TAKE MY LEAVE.”
COGNAC: A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY
There’s no better way to get to the bottom of this traditional French liqueur than by going straight to the source in France to learn how to prepare, sip and savour the sophisticated amber spirit with advice from experts at BISQUIT & DUBOUCHÉ and GRAND MARNIER
By ELISABETH MASSICOLLI
WHEN I WAS INVITED TO COGNAC , France, to discover its delicious namesake, I didn’t think I was up to the task of fully appreciating all its nuances. Cognac was still filed under “boys club” in my mind, and I associated it with images of mustachioed gentlemen decked out in velvet smoking jackets and taking sips between cigar puffs or rappers swigging the good stuff straight from the bottle. That being said, I was open to embracing the adventure as I set off for Bourg-Charente in France, where you can find the vineyards and distillation headquarters of Bisquit & Dubouché—a cognac producer with roots over 200 years deep—as well as the distillery of Grand Marnier, the iconic liqueur of France’s belle époque, which has been finding the sweet spot between cognac and bitter citrus since 1827.
While on this spirited adventure, I fall in love with something I can only describe as “nectar”—it is smooth,
slightly sugary, sometimes fruity, sometimes spicy and always throat-warming. Although it should be noted that my training wheels are in the form of several exceptional upmarket cognacs, including Bisquit & Dubouché XO (Extra Old), and the backdrop to the whole experience is one of the most charmi ng regions in France. A more affordable version— VSOP (Very Special Old Pale)—is what truly sweeps me off my feet. “It’s also the favourite of many seasoned cognac lovers,” says Vincent Chappe, global ambassador for the venerable French brand. The cognac specialist, who was raised in the AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée, a term used to certify the geographical origins of French agricultural products), explains the house’s distillation process from harvest to barrel, right down to the smallest details. According to Chappe, every Bisquit & Dubouché-made cognac is twice distilled for velvety smoothness. And I can taste it.
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CHAIS MONNET HOTEL & SPA
A VERSATILE SPIRIT
Purists prefer cognac straight up—neat or on the rocks. Cozying up to a majestic fireplace in the heart of Château Bisquit & Dubouché, however, Chappe confides that one of his favourite ways to imbibe cognac is...with ginger ale! So I try it and find I can get behind his preference—it’s delicious. For chilly fall evenings, he suggests making ice cubes with chai tea and then dropping them into your cognac of choice. Chappe doesn’t discriminate: Cognac can be savoured in a thousand and one ways, but the best is whichever one you like most.
Cognac comes in several varieties, so make sure you pick the right one for the occasion. Select finer cognacs to sample straight up, as drinking them this way allows you to fully appreciate their notes and subtle flavours—think Bisquit & Dubouché XO, with its smoked-tobacco, cacao, cinnamon and candied-fruit notes. For cocktails, you’ll want a lighter and fruitier cognac, such as the house’s VSOP, with its hints of honeysuckle, lemon and mango.
A BITTERSWEET NOTE
Speaking of cocktails, any bar worth its salt is home to a bottle of the iconic Grand Marnier. Aromatic and oil-rich bitter-orange peels that are dried, macerated and distilled give the French liqueur its signature citrus flavour. This divine distillation of bitter orange is blended with cognac to produce a beverage that’s ultra-rich, balanced and a mixologist’s match made in heaven.
Most people are familiar with the original Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, which contains a young cognac and is frequently used in cocktails due to how well it imparts zest and freshness. But Grand Marnier also produces a higher-end version, Grand Marnier Louis-Alexandre, which is made with a VSOP cognac that’s aged in French-oak barrels, a process that brings out its spicier and fruitier notes and makes it a fabulous match for ginger syrup or tonic. If you prefer to savour Grand Marnier neat or on the rocks, treat yourself to a bottle of Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire, a very expressive liqueur that boasts subtle dried-fruit flavours and spices and is made with 11- to 35-year-old cognac. It’s a delectable digestif that I get to relish myself at the brand’s
castle in Bourg-Charente, also known as the beating heart of the Grand Marnier brand. In the coming years, the château plans to open its doors to those who wish to brush up on their knowledge of the typically French beverage or even taste it for the very first time.
“You can sip on Grand Marnier liqueur without adding a thing—c’est magnifique —and it can also be a great stepping stone to enjoying cognac solo,” says Patrick Léger, the director of operations and master distiller at Grand Marnier and Bisquit & Dubouché and a Bourg-Charente native. He explains that the ways in which cognac and Grand Marnier are enjoyed have changed over time and that the younger generations are really catching on. “What we do is traditional, but we’re also creating for the future, drawing inspiration from and adapting to new tastes and the fast-paced movement of today’s world,” he says. “We’re trying to find more sustainable and creative ways to deliver our products—without ever sacrificing quality or flavour.”
WHERE TO GO IN AND AROUND COGNAC
To drink, eat and kick up your feet in style, make your way to these spots.
LA MAISON
Fine food and a well-rounded wine list in an unpretentious minimalist setting. restaurant-lamaison-cognac.fr
LA RIBAUDIÈRE
A Michelin-starred restaurant with a menu designed by none other than chef Thierry Verrat. laribaudiere.com
BISTRO DE CLAUDE
Seasonal fare and local specialties served in a warm, traditional bistro. bistro-de-claude.com
CHAIS MONNET HOTEL & SPA
A majestic luxury hotel built around a restored cognac cellar from the 19th century. chaismonnethotel.com
ellecanada . com 109 PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF CHAIS MONNET HOTEL & SPA (CHAIS MONNET HOTEL & SPA) & GRAND MARNIER (BOURG-CHARENTE CASTLE) LIFESTYLE
BOURG-CHARENTE CASTLE
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HOROSCOPE
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023
PISCES
FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20
There’s no need to wait until you have a specific plan to get started on your next endeavour. Even if your destination is unknown, February asks you to take your first steps in a new direction. As one thing leads to another, the fog will dissipate and you’ll dare to take greater risks in pursuit of your own ambitions.
By VANESSA DL ZODIAQUE MEDAL PISCIUM, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ($3,050, VANCLEEFARPELS.COM)
ARIES
MARCH 21 – APRIL 19
The month of February is like an incubator that helps put your ideas in order. Redefine your mission and evaluate the relevance of your choices, because March will put you in the spotlight. The clearer your intentions, the greater your sense of accomplishment will be.
TAURUS
APRIL 20 – MAY 20
Spending time taking care of your indoor garden is beneficial right now. Put your thoughts on paper, schedule a meeting with your therapist or go for a walk in nature. By the end of winter, this anchoring will allow you to be flexible and welcome unexpected events with joy.
GEMINI
MAY 21 – JUNE 20
The progress you’ve made in recent months is drawing attention. Do not hesitate to expand your social circle and connect with allies who encourage you to surpass your own expectations. Moredifficult relationships challenge you to stand firm in your beliefs and learn to take things more lightly.
CANCER
JUNE 21 – JULY 22
Your intuition guides you toward adventures that distract you from your usual concerns and fill you with hope. By taking care of yourself, you gain the momentum you need to propel your career forward. In late spring, take advantage of changes or restructuring to claim your rightful place.
LEO
JULY 23 – AUGUST 22
In February, your sensitivity demands your attention. The search for intimacy pushes you into unexpected territory. By being vulnerable and communicating your needs, you’ll open up a universe of possibilities, which will be a welcome breath of fresh air.
VIRGO
AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22
Are there any topics you’re afraid to bring up in your relationships? Issues that are just too big to discuss? Overcoming your fears will allow you to shine in an honest light. Even if all truths don’t need to be told, yours must be heard if you want to foster greater intimacy.
LIBRA
SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22
Relationships are a central theme at this time of year. Dare to assert your needs, and don’t settle for less. Whether you're connecting with others in the realm of friendship, love or business, don’t let your pride prevent you from fully appreciating a close bond.
SCORPIO
OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21
After a period of hibernation, you regain your vitality and feel the need to express your individuality. In February, practise the activities that feed your passions so you’ll have the confidence to make great strides in your work come March.
SAGITTARIUS
NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21
You need to replenish your energy by spending time in the comfort of your home. This rest period doesn’t have to be boring—try taking on small DIY projects that give you pleasure, for example, or indulge in sleepovers and slippers. It’s all about balance!
CAPRICORN
DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19
For several months, you’ve been running in all directions to accomplish the various tasks that are accumulating at work. Slow down and look around to make yourself aware of your shortcomings. What do you need to do to improve your life?
AQUARIUS
JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18
Before you make any important decisions, it’s crucial to consider your value. Don’t accept offers too quickly. Talks will allow you to reach a consensus and ensure that the needs of everyone— including your own—are heard.
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ASTRAL FORECAST
By VANESSA DL
THE FIRST DAYS OF FEBRUARY will be filled with a thrilling sort of energy that’s likely to move us closer to our desires—but it will do so in a way that’s sensitive to the moment, so it’s important not to jump to conclusions. It will be best to keep our wits about us in the early days of the month.
Aquarius season kicked off on January 20 and put eccentricity and innovation on the table as possible drivers of progress. On February 5, a Full Moon in Leo will amp up the electricity in the air, and a visceral need to be heard by the people around us will manifest. During this ripe celestial season, what aspects of your personality will need to be acknowledged so you can feel more a part of the communities you belong to?
A few days later, things will take a turn for the serious when Mercury and Pluto meet, making quite the hardcore pair. When this transit goes down, our thoughts and communication styles will take on new depth and intensity. (Hello, obsessive thinking!) From February 8 to 12, our powers of persuasion will be on the upswing, and so will our focus—it’s the perfect time to take a deep dive into that writing or research project that’s been on the back burner.
Enjoy it while it lasts, because in the following days, you’ll likely see your concentration skills go up in smoke. At month’s end, hearts will be racing, meaning following through on day-to-day tasks will feel more arduous than usual. The astral vibe that sets in will have us wanting to invest more time in cultivating human connection, possibly to the detriment of other responsibilities.
The month of March will begin on a lovely note, with Venus and Jupiter coming together at last and laying the groundwork for lots of personal-growth opportunities. It will be up to us to take advantage. On March 7, Saturn will cruise through Pisces, making us want to put up a “Do not disturb” sign on our proverbial front door—like an artist cocooning in their own little world and then emerging after creating their most beautiful piece yet. Calm your mind, remain open to inspiration and ask the universe: “Where would you have me go? What would you have me do? What would you have me say and to whom?” Starting on March 7, intuition will ring truer than reason. Within the light universal fog that sets in later in the month, the new Aries Moon of March 21 will ask us to trust our gut and take a stand. Stay centred amid the noise and ask yourself where that gut feeling is pulling you next.
With Pluto now in Aquarius, the winds of change will be sweeping in on March 23. Throughout this transit, we’ll all be feeling more mindful about letting go of certain parts of our lives to make more room for growth. A new age of transformation will be driving us to drop everything that’s holding us back from truly coming into our authentic selves. Two days later, Mars will finally be exiting Gemini after seven supercharged months of everyone running around with headless-chicken energy, so when we finally arrive in Cancer, we’ll need to feel before we act. Let’s create the space we need before making any spicy moves, okay?
With such significant planetary movements under way, current events are going to set off huge consciousness-raising ripple effects for a whole lot of people. To hold on to hope in the face of such an uncertain future, we’ll need to look within and intuit the best ways to engage and make a difference. Commitment is a powerful antidote to feeling powerless.
ellecanada . com 113 ASTROLOGY
COLLAGE, ROBB JAMIESON
After a slow and introspective January, the coming months are going to feel fast-paced. In February, a much-needed boost will help us take an important leap, and in March, powerful winds of change await.
RBEF U A RY/MARC H 2023
LONG LIVE PUNK
Dame VIVIENNE WESTWOOD left this world peacefully late last year but not without leaving behind the legacy of a true rebel. Dubbed “the queen of punk” during her seven-decade career, the provocative British fashion designer appropriated the underground movement’s codes by fusing them with high-fashion standards. Her deconstructed corsets, tartan crinoline skirts and platform heels quickly became recognizable staples that were sported by the likes of Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. A disruptor at heart, she incorporated religious, royal and rock iconography into her designs while also giving a nod to classic British tailoring and Old Masters’ paintings. Westwood understood early on that subversion shines brighter when camouflaged as thoughtful provocation, and she made it her life’s mission to change our world for the better. A fervent climate-change advocate and anti-capitalist, the designer channelled her anarchist messages and political views into her garments and runway shows, proving that true art always speaks louder than words.
114 ellecanada . com TEXT, ESTELLE GERVAIS; PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF VIVIENNE WESTWOOD FINALE
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