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march 2012

issue two

513 {eats}

Spring


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welcoming ISpringI

A

s we were wrapping things up for this, our spring issue of 513{eats}, much like the fashion world, we have been working on next season's stories while still in this season; which, last time I checked, was winter. May I just say thank you to mother nature for providing some beautiful spring like temperatures while we photographed our 'outside' features. It made this photographer's fingers and toes so very, very happy. Whereas it's been a treat, I saw on facebook last month that my friend Steve had posted a picture of a sprouting dandelion. One must wonder if that is a good or a bad happening in the first week of February. Ilene, Nora and I met in early January for our creative brainstorming rendezvous complete with a tasty brunch, as expected. On the menu were simple hard boiled eggs drizzled with fresh greek olive oil, sea salt and thyme, a caramelized onion, baby tomato, goat cheese tart and a variety of herbal teas. We took out our little notebooks filled with each of our ideas for the March issue as well as looking forward to our summer issue. We outlined quite an ambitious schedule of content and I'm happy to say that we somehow managed to complete almost all of it as well as adding an additional story at the final hour. We have been so fortunate as well as delighted that our ideas have been so

openly and eagerly accepted. What a treat it's been to be invited behind the scenes, in the kitchens, in the woods, on the farms and the multiple fabulous locations that we used for our styled shots. Is it too swanky to admit how much fun we are having? In all honestly, it has also been many long days (and evenings) of hard work from all the amazing people who are involved in bringing the 513{eats}gazette to life. I've had my own personal battle with learning Indesign on the fly, so to speak. I hope I spread out all my questions to my wonderful graphic designer friends enough so that they would still answer their phones when they see it's me calling;) We are beyond excited about what there is to share with you in this issue. We hope you enjoy every single story, image, recipe and all things inspiring that you come across as you flip through March's issue~hopefully while nibbling or sipping on a favorite sumethin-sumethin. Happy Spring, Gina

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founder/creative director Gina Weathersby (aka kiwi street studios) specializes in children's portraiture, editorial fashion, travel and lifestyle photography. Recently, she gave in to the fact that preparing, styling and photographing food has been calling her name long enough. Gina resides in Oakley with her husband, SB and their three girlies who make her world most wonderful.

editor in chief

Ilene Ross has lived all over the world educating people on cooking and eating well. As a local chef and caterer, Ilene is passionate about feeding people beautifully crafted and delicious food, and has been featured on local television sharing this love with others. Ilene lives in Amberley Village with her husband Marc and her son Carter. Her daughter Cameron lives in Chicago.

senior stylist Nora Martini has been a freelance Set Designer since 1991 working on a variety of projects such as books, magazines, commercials, products and a handful of films. Nora is based out of Cincinnati, Ohio where she has her family and friends close. Nora has chosen this profession for the pure pleasure of inspiring, hopefully not only herself, but others. She looks forward to where it will lead her. View Nora's portfolio.

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march

photographer/writer

Anne See is the chubs half of cheeksandchubs. Together, they run the blog our backyard, where they share what interests them, in photographs. You can see more of their photography on their flickr stream, eyeswideopen

writer

chicago editor

Contributors

Cami Ross is currently the Marketing Manager for IT Foresight, and works freelance in television both independently and for such networks as OWN, CBS, WE and Style Network. Cami lives in Chicago with her boyfriend Scott and three surprisingly healthy goldfish. IT Foresight

Julie Niesen Gosdin is a freelance writer who also runs *wine me, dine me (in Cincinnati*). Her work has been seen in The Cincinnati Enquirer, Metromix, Cincy Chic, Taste Cincinnati and Express Cincinnati. Follow her on Twitter @ winemedineme.

graphic designer

Alan Brown is the owner of a small graphic design and web development studio in Cincinnati, Ohio, for the past twenty-three years. Alan has always been passionate about photography and its visual impact. photonicsgraphics.com

maple syrup hobbyist

A Cincinnati native, Jim Merkl has been a freelance location sound recordist since 1991, and a member of the Cincinnati Reds' scoreboard crew since 2003. He lives in College Hill with his wife Julie and their dog Kloi.

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media designer

design consultant

Rachael Smith is a Graphic Designer residing in Mason. She has spent the last few years designing books for the writing and craft community. Her love for design, photography, cooking, and crafting keep her busy on most days. You can see her work at RachaelAnn.

Eric Hintz is a design focused experienced producer, director, and editor passionate about life and culture. Eric currently lives in Oakley, Ohio with his awesome wife Jillian and rambunctious puppy Corbin. hinzmedia


March 2012 issue no. 2

30

Departments v 10 30 36 49 70 78 88 96 100 212 214

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Color Story ~ Eggs In the kitchen with Where we live We'd like you to meet Ethnic {513} We love la tache douce Your dish Farmer's Market Recipes Outtakes

cover Styled by Nora Martini Photographed by Gina Weathersby


16

Features v 16 56 104 162 172 188

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Urban Chicks Colonel De Road Trip Snowville Creamery Jeni's Ice Cream OEFFA Ali Baba's Petali Teas Brothers Drake Truly Grateful The Pretzel Man Backyard Labor of Love

513{eats} is an online publication produced by Gina Weathersby. All images, unless otherwise noted, are the property of ŠGina Weathersby/ Kiwi Street Studios. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is not permitted.


I love spring anywhere, but if I could choose I would always greet it in a garden. 3 Ruth Stout

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A More subdued Palette of

Colored styling by nora martini photography by gina weathersby I 10 I


d

Eggs

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muted

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hues I 15 I


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urban

chicks

If the thought of farm-fresh eggs just isn’t local enough

for you, it might be time to consider making the investment in your own small flock of backyard chickens. Nowadays, with the emphasis placed on knowing where your food

comes from, these inexpensive to keep protein providers’ popularity is on the rise. story Ilene Ross photography Gina Weathersby

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Amy Rubenstein and her husband Scott wouldn’t have it any other way. Nestled comfortably in the Rubenstein’s sprawling Amberley Village backyard, six hens have made their home in a playhouse once belonging to Amy and Scott’s three young daughters. Besides providing delicious, fresh eggs, the chickens are a constant source of entertainment and education for the family. Feeding, watering, gathering eggs, and monitoring for predatorsincluding an omnipresent hawk during our visit-are all chores for the Rubenstein girls. Looking beyond the always available breakfast-although knowing what your hens eat, and what’s in your eggs seems like motive enough for us- there are numerous reasons for adding these feathered friends to your family. Chickens are superlative at pest control, making quick work of those nasty grubs and beetles in your lawn and garden. They will even tackle moles and mice. No nasty chemicals necessary. Kitchen scraps will be gourmet fare for your “girls”, and never again will you throw away vegetables because they’re on the verge of going off. Toss them in the chicken run, and watch them disappear. And, well, there’s no way to make this one pretty, but chicken poop is one of the best fertilizers out there, so why not take advantage of it as a bonus round. It’s an extremely nitrogen rich addition to your compost pile, and a nitrogen-rich compost pile is a healthy compost pile. Beloved as family pets, the Rubenstein chickens each have a unique, quirky personality. The larger, russet colored Golden Comets are independent, exuding a distinct air of pride, while the smaller, speckled Barred Rocks although lower in the “pecking order”, possess a gentle disposition. These lovely little birds are content to be held and stroked by the children, responding with a delightful cooing sound.

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Truth be told, you feel a bit arrogant taking this

But, the fact of the matter is tha

this seems to be a really e

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s much pleasure in such a simple thing as an egg.

at frankly, if we are what we eat,

enjoyable way to get there.

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from backyard to breakfast

The girls proudly show off their daily “harvest” of eggs, two beauties, each a lovely light brown hue. We take them home and make the best soft-boiled eggs we’ve ever tasted. Extremely rich and flavorful, a brand new egg is like no egg you’ve ever consumed before. You see the difference immediately in the deep healthy orange of the yolk, nothing like the pale yellow center of eggs that have been sitting on supermarket shelves for days and even weeks, and are always factory farmed. Truth be told, you feel a bit arrogant taking this much pleasure in such a simple thing as an egg. But, the fact of the matter is that frankly, if we are what we eat, this seems to be a really enjoyable way to get there. I 24 I


soft boiled eggs

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herbed baked eggs

recipe on page 211 I 27 I


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Ginger Fried Rice

1/2 cup peanut oil 2 TBLS minced garlic 2 TBLS minced ginger salt 2 cups thinly sliced leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed and dried 4 cups day-old cooked jasmine rice, room temp 4 large eggs 2 tsp sesame oil 4 tsp soy sauce

1. In a large skillet, heat 1/4 cup oil over medium heat. Add garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp and brown. With a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels and salt lightly. 2. Reduce heat under skillet to medium-low and add 2 tablespoons oil and leeks. Cook about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until very tender but not browned. Season lightly with salt. 3. Raise heat to medium and add rice. Cook, stirring well, until heated through. Season to taste with salt. 4. In a nonstick skillet, fry eggs in remaining oil, sunny-side-up, until edges are set but yolk is still runny. 5. Divide rice among four dishes. Top each with an egg and drizzle with 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil and 1 teaspoon soy sauce. Sprinkle crisped garlic and ginger over everything and serve. Yield: 4 servings. Jean-Georges's Fried Rice via Mark Bittman I 29 I


In The Kitchen With

Dave

{and his bread pudding} photography by gina weathersby written by ilene ross

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As a young boy in his parent’s St. Louis kitchen, Chef Dave Taylor was raised with a love for home-cooked food. St. Louis was a town filled with “Mom and Pop” eateries, and Dave relished the fact that you could practically taste the soul of each restaurant in the mouth-watering aromas. Excellent cooks themselves, Dave’s parents inspired in him a desire to enter the industry at the tender age of 14, and he worked his way through high school and college from dishwasher to executive chef. In 2009, Dave and his friend Bryant Phillips-one of the few Certified Sommeliers in Cincinnati- decided that the time was right to open their own restaurant based on the shared vision of quality culinary

creations and sterling customer service. Along with Bryant’s wife, Kelly Lough, and business partner Jens Rosenkrantz, an old post office building on Telford Street in Clifton was chosen, and the wildly successful La Poste was born. The Bistro American cuisine is impeccably prepared, and the three Certified Sommeliers have over 2000 bottles of wine on offer. Their second restaurant, Django Western Taco will be opening in Northside later this spring. With his culinary and business dreams coming true, all that’s needed to complete this young chef’s vision of complete happiness is a blissful family life, and Dave has that as well. He and his beautiful wife Tina are expecting their first child-a girl-any day now.

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White Chocolate-Cherry Bread Pudding

recipe on page 210

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Northside Where we live...

When

storyilene ross stylingnora martini photographygina weathersby

you think of Sunday brunch, your mind probably conjures up thoughts of extravagant buffet tables laden with white linen and elaborate chafing dishes filled with elegant fare. Step inside The Comet Bar in Northside, and you immediately recognize that you’re in for a completely different, yet thoroughly satisfying experience. The moment you arrive, step up to the bar and order one of the delicious, perfectly spiced Bloody Marys. Served with a lime wedge and pickled vegetables, it’s the best sipper to enjoy while you wait on line perusing the blackboard menu and ordering your food. There are plenty of both savory and sweet options from which to choose and portions are huge. Since we usually want what’s on someone else’s plate, we chose a few dishes and passed them around. The menu changes weekly, and there is always a vegan option. There are many reasons to spend your Sunday morning reveling in the robust comfort food being served up here; having spent your Saturday night over numerous cold beers listening to great live music while sitting in the exact same chair might be one of them. You might be a family with a young child looking for a casual place to enjoy a meal out. Or,

perhaps you’re new to Northside and you’re looking for a neighborhood bar to call your own. If that’s the case, you’re welcome at The Comet. You’ll more than likely find yourself seated next to someone who has been here many, many times before. Yes, most everyone brunching at The Comet is a regular, and a large number of them are in the restaurant business themselves. This, it seems, is a huge testament to the owner, Dave Cunningham. When asked why he’s here every Sunday, Bryant Phillips, one of the owners and sommelier at Clifton’s La Poste Restaurant and Northside’s soon to be open Django Western Taco says, “It’s my church, and Dave Cunningham is my preacher”. Bryant and his wife, Kelly Lough, frequent The Comet along with La Poste and Django chef, Dave Taylor and his wife Tina. Shalini Latour of Chocolats Latour is also a regular, along with her friend, Catherine Obrien. Shalini lives in Northside and teaches a yoga class right around the corner every Sunday morning, so dropping by The Comet for brunch after is a natural for her. Catherine loves the eclectic crowd, and the fact that you can come in at any time and feel at home. She also adores the food, especially the salsa.

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“It’s my

church,

and Dave Cunningham is my

preacher ”

~Bryant Phillips

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D

ave Cunningham has owned The Com known for serving Mexican food such as started serving brunch about 2 years ago when and he could start serving alcohol on Sundays without a Bloody Mary or a Mimosa?

Dave wanted a casual, relaxed atmosphere wh food and drinking on Sunday morning, and he and post Saturday night story-telling isn’t enou music such as a DJ or mariachi band, and The

The Comet is located at 4579 Hamilton Ave 4:00pm until 2:30am. Sunday brunch

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met for 16 years. The bar has always been s burritos and quesadillas at night, but Dave n the State of Ohio changed its liquor laws s after 11:00am. After all, what’s a brunch

here folks could feel comfortable eating great e’s accomplished that. If crowd watching ugh entertainment for you, there is often live e Comet has also featured poetry readings.

enue, in Northside. They’re open daily from h is served from 11:00am until 2:00pm.

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the comet's bloody

Mary

Dave Cunningham serves up one of the tastiest Brunch bevies we’ve ever had. If you want to sway folks at home with your Sunday finest, mix up a batch real soon. At The Comet, they blend it 4 gallons at a time, but Dave has shared with us a more manageable size. 1 quart tomato juice 1 quart v8 juice 4 oz. Worcestershire sauce 2 T ground white horseradish 2 T celery salt 1 oz. fresh lemon juice 5 oz. franks red hot sauce Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Vodka, blue cheese stuffed olives, and pickled veggies to serve Ice In a large pitcher, mix together tomato juice and v8 juice. Whisk in Worcestershire sauce, horseradish, celery salt, lemon juice, and hot sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To serve- In an 8 oz. glass filled with ice, pour 1 oz. of vodka. Add Bloody Mary mix and stir. Garnish your cocktail with blue cheese stuffed olives and veggies as desired. Bloody Mary mix keeps in the refrigerator for up to a week.

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"They're cool" all natural frozen goodies. House made, with a purpose.

Findlay Market | 1813 Pleasant Street | Cincinnati, OH 45202 Tuesday - Saturday 9-6 Sunday 10-4 | 513-721-8696 www.petwants.com

chocolatslatour.com

good for everything! I 48 I


•We'd like you to meet • Courtney Tsitouris

food blogger With each edition of 513{eats}, we take great pride and pleasure in introducing you to one of the members of our food community. As the saying goes, “it takes a village”, and our city is overflowing with talented folks full of passion, spirit, and drive. In this issue, we’d like you to meet the multi-faceted Courtney Tsitouris, author of the immensely popular food blog, Epi-Ventures, cook book publisher, and producer. We’re certain you’ll be as delighted to get to know her as we were. ~Ilene Ross

photos courtesy of Courtney Tsitouris I 49 I


IR How did Epi-Ventures come to life? CT The truth is that I don’t really know what possessed me to start food blogging, especially given the large number of food blogs already out there. I loved food, I loved writing and I wanted to see if I could put them together. Now, the only thing I can say with complete clarity is that Epi-Ventures has changed my life. IR Epi-Ventures is one food blog that we actually read regularly. Everyone thinks that just because

they like food and they own a computer, shazaam! They’re a food blogger! You’ve actually managed to be successful. What’s your secret? CT Epi-Ventures is a food blog but I like to think that it’s really more than that. It’s about finding yourself, searching for where you belong. I’ve had no shame in revealing how tough the journey has been for me. I started out as a graphic designer who was struggling to get into the advertising business. That’s when I made the decision to follow my passion for food to culinary school.

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That time in my life was really unpredictable. I didn’t know where I was going; I didn’t know where I belonged in the world. So even though I was blogging about food, the subject was always about much more than food … and it still is. Which is why I find food writing so addictive. It’s multi-layered. You can tell several stories at once. IR You’ve now partnered up with Chef Todd Kelly to publish Todd Kelly’s Orchids at Palm Court, your very first cookbook. Quite ambitious. How did this come about, and will there be more? CT I wrote a feature article on Todd for my blog. He and his wife liked it and felt it captured his style and personality. When it came time to find a writer for his cookbook, he asked his publisher to bring me onboard. The amazing part to me now is that there are chapters in the book where I write about his journey … which is really a story about his own self discovery through food. In a lot of ways, I've had a similar journey. So you’re reading about

him and in some small way, you’re reading about me, too. I’d love to work with another chef on another cookbook. When I got deep into Todd’s project, I realized the need for a really fantastic editor and art director. I added two individuals to the team who were the book’s saving grace. Now we’re in a unique position. We have battle scars. We know how to work from page 1 to page 180. We want to prove we can take the next project further. Make it even bigger and better the next time. IR Tell us a little about Cincinnati Deconstructed. CT Cincinnati Deconstructed is a video experiment. I’m working with local film director, Michael Holder, to bring the Cincinnati food scene to life through interviews and behindthe-scenes footage. Our goal is to “deconstruct” the people we’re interviewing … to reveal them in new and engaging ways.   We did the pilot episode with Molly Wellmann, the bombshell mixologist at Japps, and it was well

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received. Our next episode is with Jean-Francois Flechet from Taste of Belgium and I’m excited to see what our audience thinks. I’m asking the questions behind the camera and searching for the real story – but Michael is the brains behind the operation. His footage is just gorgeous. We go back and forth on editing – we second-guess each other until we’re both happy. And in the end, I think we create something really unique. I would love to turn this project into a series but we have to gage the public reaction … see if the interest is equal to the intense amount of work it requires to put it together.

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IR Growing up, you wanted to be a… CT I wanted to be a hotshot advertising executive like my dad. I went to school for graphic design and I had a terrible time breaking into the industry. It’s so competitive. The funny part is that after I started my food blog, a creative director at a local ad I 52 I


agency became a fan and eventually offered me a job as a writer. So I got to follow in my dad’s footsteps, after all. It just took food to complete the circle. IR What do you like most about the Cincinnati food community/scene? Least? CT Cincinnati is an incredible food community – and a really tight knit one. Most of the chefs around here know and respect each other. The problem with our food scene is how little respect it gets in other parts of the country. This is a frustration that a lot of people around here share. We’ve got ground-breaking chefs like Todd Kelly, Jean Robert de Cavel and Jose Salazar at The Cincinnatian … cooking on levels that should earn more national spotlight than they do.

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IR Your ideal dinner party is? CT Outside with a big wood table and mismatched dishes. Hanging lights that could do wonders for my complexion! Simple, fresh, farm food … brought together in clever ways. Lots of color. Lots of laughing. Some cool French music. Maybe Eartha Kitt. IR When you’re alone, and nobody is watching, your sneak food is? CT Italian cheese. Peanut butter. Cool Ranch Doritos.   IR Dead or alive, you get 12 people at your dinner table. They would be? And you would serve? CT The people I've lost through the years: my grandparents, my aunt, my cousin. I’d bring them back and we'd sip wine and eat mashed potatoes. My grandpa would say, "That'a girl" like he used to and my grandma would say, "You're a go-er" like she did when I was a kid. I miss them and I'd love nothing more than to give them back their seats at the table.  

K

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Colonel De

Gourmet Herbs & Spices

S

ituated in the Northwest corner of Findlay Market is one of our city’s most exotic culinary pleasures. As you approach Colonel De Gourmet Herbs & Spices, heady aromas begin to fill the air. Your eyes fall upon hundreds of jars filled with jewellike delicacies, and your thoughts turn to lands far, far away. But the real gems in this local treasure trove are the folks behind the handsome antique counter. De Stewart and his staff know flavor. As a small child, De, or “The Colonel”, as he’s affectionately known, (he is a real Kentucky Colonel after all) spent his time at his mother’s apron strings as the many women in his life worked their magic in the kitchen. Convinced that there was more to seasoning than simply salt, pepper, and lard, De began his life-long study on herbs and spices. He later went

on to write his first book, “All about Herbs & Spices”, an encyclopedia-like work on the topic. This man knows his business. Not only is he a guru when it comes to flavor profiles, but he could easily teach a university course on mankind’s history based on spice trading. His staff is top notch as well. Although an audience with The Colonel is reason enough for a trip to Findlay, anyone working here can fully educate you, as well as lift those magical jar lids and send your senses on a journey to exotic places. This type of experience and service could never take place at your typical grocery store. Just a few moments spent with these knowledgeable folks will inspire your palate, empower you to expand your cooking repertoire, and always send you away having learned something you never knew before. There is serious hustle and bustle going on here. Stop by on a typical Saturday, and wedge yourself in at the counter. You’ll find yourself in outstanding company. Cincinnati’s top chefs shop here, often looking to De for custom blends, to see what’s new, and to get menu inspirations for their restaurants. But don’t let that leave you feeling intimidated or overwhelmed. Everybody is made to feel at home, whether you’re a gourmet foodie, hunting down the latest herb from the far reaches of Africa, or you’re a novice cook testing out a chili recipe for your mom’s hand-me-down crock pot. Just be prepared. If you ask for salt, get comfortable. You’re going to be here for a while. There are over forty varieties available, including my favorite, a bourbon smoked sea salt. And make sure you check out the huge, almost translucent pink Himalayan salt slabs, perfect for imparting a delicate, brackish flavor to the foods you cook or serve on them. Take that, little salt girl! written by Ilene Ross photography by Gina Weathersby

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Top 5 reasons to shop at Colonel De Herbs & Spices by Ilene Ross 1. Tops on my list, is unquestionably the experience. I find that as I age, I value my time far more than I

used to. I take great pleasure with even the little things, and that includes running errands. The interaction with purveyors at these small, independent shops and the passion for their product they imbue has become invaluable to me. 2. Knowledge. Have you ever asked someone at your behemoth grocery store to help you track down Zatar? I rest my case. 3. Mind-boggling variety. Giant chain: about 100 herbs and spices. Colonel De: over 500. There are also oils, vinegars, sauces, marinades, gadgets, gifts, and more. 4. One reason, two words. TIME = QUALITY. According to De, time wreaks havoc on exceedingly delicate herbs and spices. The spices in the grocery store start out a lot like the Colonel’s, but all similarities end there. Between spice purveyors, transit time, purveyor warehouse storage time while waiting for grocery store orders, grocery store warehouse storage time while waiting for a store manager to put it on an order, local store storage time, shelf time, waiting for you to buy the product….well, I’m exhausted thinking of that journey, and you can see the problem. Colonel De purveys his own product direct from the source, and delivers it fresh to you. 5. Quantity. Your Grandma’s holiday cookie recipe calls for a two tablespoons of cardamom, and two tablespoons of anise seed. You make these cookies once a year. You don’t use cardamom or anise for anything else. Do you go to the grocery store and buy large tins of these items that will sit on your shelf and most likely get thrown away? Absolutely not. What a waste of money! Pop down to Colonel De for exact amounts of what you need. You can purchase little as a quarter of an ounce, and he’s working on even smaller quantities than that. While you’re there with extra coin in your pocket, try something new, like one of my favorites, the enchanting French Curry blend. It’s divine with shrimp. I 61 I


Jeweled Spices

Khmeli-Suneli

“I spent about a year researching Khemeli Suneli. It is from the Georgian region of the old USSR. Geographically it is an interesting place, in that it is where the Christian world and the Muslim world overlap, as they have for several hundred years. This area has been influenced by both cultures for so long that it is impossible to separate one culture from the other within the structure of the Georgian society. Half of the ingredients that make up Khemeli Suneli are right out of a Muslim cookbook and the other half is from the Christian cooking traditions. It is somewhat like the curry of the area, and as you go from one part of Georgia to another, you will find modest variations in the ingredients. Like a good curry, it is used in a lot of dishes from this region.” –Colonel De Stewart I 62 I


4 3

6

5

2

7 1 cilantro domestic cut and sifted 2 whole mustard seed 3 umeric powder 4 curry powder (basic) 5 garam marsala powder 6 indian five spice (panch phoran) 7 nigella seeds I 63 I

styling by Nora Martini

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Bengali Fish Curry B

food styling and photography by gina weathersby

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Bengali Fish Curry

Adapted from “Cooking with Colonel De” 4 firm, white fish filets ½ tsp. turmeric Sea salt to taste 2 T yellow mustard seeds 1-2 jalapenos, seeds and ribs removed, chopped into eighths 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk ½ teaspoon sea salt (more to taste if needed) ½ tsp. panch phoran, crushed lightly (a mortar and pestle is ideal for this) Olive oil for sautéing fish 1T finely chopped fresh cilantro for garnish We suggest serving this fish with Jasmine or Basmati rice and Naan bread Heat oven to 250. Sprinkle each filet with turmeric and sea salt on both sides, then gently rub them into the fish. Set aside. For the sauce- Place the mustard seeds, jalapeno(s), coconut milk and ½ teaspoon sea salt in a blender, and blend for about 4 minutes, or until the mustard seeds are broken down and a thick, cream-like consistency is reached. If the sauce is too thick, you can thin it with a little more coconut milk or water. Taste for seasoning, and adjust if necessary. Set it aside. In a sauté pan on medium-high heat, add about a tablespoon of olive oil. Tilt the pan to coat it with the oil. When the oil is hot, add one or two of the fish filets. Don’t crowd the pan. Sauté the fish on both sides and remove to a plate in the oven to keep warm. Sauté the rest of the fish, and place in the oven. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan. When the oil is hot, add the panch phoran, and sauté until it is fragrant, being careful not to let it burn. Add your sauce to the pan, and simmer for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the sauce is too thick, add a bit more coconut milk or water. Plate your fish as desired with hot, steamed rice and serve immediately. You can either ladle the sauce over it, or serve it on the side. Sprinkle chopped cilantro on the top and enjoy! Serves 4

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The Bonbonerie 2030 Madison Road Cincinnati, OH 45209 (513)321-3399

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ethnic{513} chinese story and photography by anne see

Cincinnati’s Ethnic Heritage introduction by ilene ross

When it comes to local fare, native Cincinnatians are quick to spout off their favorite haunts for chili, goetta, and ribs, but with our now diverse population including Hispanic, African-American, Asian, and European folks, the Queen City is far more than just the German “Zinzinnati” of yesteryear. And although we’re rightfully proud of that heritage-the largest Oktoberfest celebration in the world outside of Munich is held here-we’ve grown to appreciate and embrace the rich tapestry our city has become. With each issue of 513{eats}, we’re proud to introduce to you one of the unique cultures making this town its home.

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although i was born in the philippines, i am of chinese descent. every year, my mom throws a big party to welcome the chinese new year. The main dish at these parties is what we call chinese lumpia; layers of vegetables, seaweed and ground sugared peanuts nested on a lumpia (rice flour) wrapper, then rolled like a burrito. this is also known as “popiah” in china and singapore. but before all the festivities begin, we start by paying respects to our ancestors. a table is laid out with offerings to the dead. these are usually fruits, drinks, the food which will be served at the party, and paper money. chinese people believe in life after death, and they believe that these offerings will be “delivered” to their families in the afterlife. we hold red incense sticks tightly between our palms and say our prayers, and then paper money is folded and burned.

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now it’s time to pre there are many vari and fish balls. every the lumpia. the filli seaweed and groun that there is an art a is placed on a plate this helps keep the gives the eater enou spooned on top of t peanuts. the first tim much “fixins� in, an

this is a once a year way to celebrate th

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epare the chinese lumpia. it’s time-consuming, but not complicated. iations to the ingredients. my mom uses carrots, green beans, cabbage, ything gets shredded and mixed together – this is the main “filling” of ing is served along with lumpia wrappers, leaves of lettuce, shredded nd sugared peanuts. anyone who’s ever eaten a chinese lumpia knows and an order to building and then eating one. first, the lumpia wrapper e (the wrapper has a crepe-like texture). then comes a leaf of lettuce – juices from the vegetable mix from tearing up the wrapper (or at least ugh time before the lumpia wrapper falls apart). the vegetable mix is the lettuce, sprinkled with some seaweed and then topped off with the me is never right, as the eater always finds out that he/she has put too nd the wrapper can't hold it all. but by the second, an expert is born!

r dish that my family takes time to prepare and enjoy. and what better han with extended family and friends.

happy new year {the year of the dragon}

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we love...

Mo Sy

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olly her yrups &

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Cincinnati’s reigning queen of mixology, there’s no doubt about the fact that this is Molly Wellman’s proverbial five minutes of fame. With Over-the-Rhine’s super successful Japps Since 1879 under her belt, and the soon to be opened Old Kentucky Bourbon Bar in Covington on the way, she never seems to have a moment to herself. Anyone else would buckle under this never-ending agenda, but Molly thrives on the action. You can see it on her face when she talks about Japps. It’s her baby, and boy, is she proud. We see it in her eyes; they beam as she shows off some newly acquired staves, the curved, charred pieces of wood used to form Bourbon barrels. They were given to Molly as a gift from a Bourbon maker. To most people, they look like burnt sticks, but to Molly, they’re pure gold. Molly’s knowledge of Bourbon and liquor in general is mind-boggling. She is passionate about her product, and cares deeply about her customers. The spirits at Japps are top shelf, and often times unusual and hard to find. With that much thought put into the foundation of a cocktail, it would be unthinkable to skimp on the mixers as well. While most bartenders are content to open cans festooned with labels full of unpronounceable ingredients, you will never find these here. Lining the bar at Japps are unadorned,

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tall glass bottles filled with jewel-toned liquids. These lovely elixirs are Molly’s very own homemade syrups; her recipes were developed with extensive research of original fountain drink recipes and good old trial and error. With her background in nutrition, Molly knew that she could never use anything in her beverages but all-natural products of the best quality. “I want you to know what you’re drinking. I don’t use any high fructose corn syrup, and by making these syrups myself, I can make some really unusual flavors,” say’s Molly. Chinese Five Spice, Lavender, Marigold, and Rosemary are just some of the more unique creations alongside the more traditional vanilla and coconut. Even the ginger, tonic, grenadine, and cola are made from scratch, the latter taking seven tries to formulate correctly. The flavor was precisely designed to complement a fine Bourbon. At Japps, a cocktail is never seen as something with which to over-indulge. It’s meant to be savored while meeting old and new friends and reveling in the splendid revitalization of an architectural gem. While an evening with Molly at her beloved bar might feel as if you’ve taken a step back in time, rest assured you’re free to enjoy this lovely respite from your own hectic schedule any time you please.

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Molly's Ginger Syrup

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This sweet and spicy syrup makes a delightful hostess gift. Not only is it scrumptious with Bourbon and soda water over ice, but try it with your ice cream or plain sparkling water for the teetotalers or youngsters in your home. We’ve also included one of Molly Wellman’s favorite Ginger Syrup cocktails from the menu at Japps Since 1879, the Dark & Stormy. recipe on page 210 I 87 I


La tach

ginger & r chees

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he douce

raspberry secake

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ginger and raspberry cheesecake base 150g/about 1/2 pkg biscuits (i used graham crackers) small handfull of raw almonds 15g/1tbls melted butter (i used 4 tbls) filling 300g cream cheese, softened 120g/1/2 cup sour cream one inch piece fresh ginger grated 2 whole eggs 50g ginger marmalade (i used an orange/apricot marmalade) 50ml maple syrup (the real thing) 1 tsp vanilla 150g/ 1cup raspberries method preheat oven to 320 degrees prepare a 20cm spring form pan-take out bottom and cover with baking paper, place back in pan. for the crust-place crackers and almonds in a food processor and crush until fine. add melted butter and mix well. press evenly into base of pan and bake 6-8 min, take out to cool. for the filling-in a medium mixing bowl, add cream cheese and beat well until smooth. mix in sour cream and ginger. add one egg at a time beating well after each one. then stir in marmalade, maple syrup and vanilla. lastly, add raspberries and mix through. place cheese mixture into cooled pan and bake 1-1.5 hours, until set but still a bit wobbly in the middle. take out to cool and then place in fridge overnight to set further. serves 8.

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yourdish winner in january, via our facebook page, we begged the question...what is your favorite one dish meal? we wanted to give you a chance to submit a recipe and have it shared here. we were thrilled at how many of you sent in your recipes and frankly had a hard time even deciding on how to decide! so just how did we decide? we simply pulled one of your names out of a hat! voila! the 'your dish' recipe winner is

Mary Smith - from Milford - who submitted her recipe of creamy scalloped potatoes. (recipe on following page)

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Creamy Scalloped Potatoes 2 cups heavy whipping cream 5-7 medium sized red potatoes, scrubbed and sliced evenly into 1/8 inch slices 1 medium onion, sliced thinly 1 garlic clove, minced 6-7 sprigs of fresh thyme stems 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese kosher salt and coarsely ground pepper Preheat oven to 375F. Butter a shallow baking dish. In a large heavy saucepan, heat the cream to boiling. Add the garlic, onions, potatoes, thyme, salt and pepper. Simmer 10-15 minutes until the potatoes are tender. Spoon half the mixture into the buttered baking dish and sprinkle on half the Parmesan. Add remaining mixture and sprinkle with remaining Parmesan. Bake approximately 20 minutes until the top browns and the cream thickens. Serves 6

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To Mar ket, To Mar ket written by Julie Niesen Gosdin

March. The longest (yet shortest) month of the year is behind us.  The daffodils are thinking about popping up, and spring-themed candy is on the shelves at the grocery store.  Still, it’s hard to believe it’s been a few months since most Farmers’ Markets were open.  With the weather most of the winter being a touch more like spring or fall, it almost seems as if they never should have shut down!  Cincinnati in particular is ideally located: in just 30 minutes’ or so, you leave both the city and suburbia and enter into lush farmland. Many of these farmers bring their wares to the city, allowing us access to a bevy of fresh produce just a few minutes’ drive (or walk) from most Cincinnati homes.   With the movement towards farm-totable dining, local chefs take advantage of these markets and their relationships with farmers to provide the best, most seasonal products for their kitchens, and you can do the same thing. A few tips for shopping farmers’ markets: •Make sure you know what’s in season.  Looking for tomatoes in May or strawberries in October will only disappoint you.  Epicurious.com has a state-by-state guide to what’s in season each month.

•Build a relationship with your favorite producers. The farmer you buy chicken from regularly might just hold a turkey for you at Thanksgiving, or the vegetable farmer might let you know when her zucchini is at its peak. You get to know more about your food and where it comes from (and you’ll make a friend or two along the way). •Bring your own bags, and bring cash-- though Square and other mobile-based payment methods are common, not everyone uses them, and cash is always appreciated. •Pack a cooler in the car for items like cheese, milk and meat, all which are more and more commonly available at farmers’ markets locally. •Be open to new things and new fruits and vegetables you’ve never tried.  Never cooked beets before? Ask about the farmer’s favorite way to prepare them.   For some markets, you’ll have to wait until June, but the granddaddy of Cincinnati farmers’ markets, Findlay Market, opens the season in April, when the first asparagus and fiddlehead ferns start gracing plates around the city. Here’s a list of local farmers’ markets, in order of their opening so you can start going local as soon as possible.

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farmer's market schedule Northside - 4222 Hamilton Avenue, Wednesday, 4-7 p.m. Year-round. West Chester - West Chester Towne Center, Saturday, 2-3:30. Year-round. Anderson Farmers Market in Anderson Township - Anderson Station, 7850 Five Mile Road, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. May through October Deerfield Township - Kingswood Park, 4188 Erwin Simpson Road, 9 a.m.-noon May through October. Winter Market one Saturday per month: March 17, April 21 at 10 AM to 11 AM. Findlay Market - Elder Street between Race and Elm streets, Over-the-Rhine (open year-round). 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday, 4-6 p.m. Tuesday, Saturday and Sundays, April through November. Harvest Home Park - Lettuce Eat Well Farmer’s Market on Cincinnati’s West Side Harvest Home Park, 3961 North Bend Road, Cheviot, 3-7 p.m. Friday from April-November. College Hill - College Hill Presbyterian Church parking lot, 5742 Hamilton Ave. 3-6:30 p.m., Thursday. May through October Hamilton - Old Court House Square, Second and Court streets, Hamilton. 7 a.m.-noon, Saturday. May through October. Lebanon - Corner of Sycamore and Main streets, Lebanon. 3-7 p.m. Thursdays, May through Hyde Park - Hyde Park Square and U.S. Bank parking lot (May, October and November). 9:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Sunday. May-November. Lunken Airport - Kellogg and Wilmer Aves., East End. Monday-Friday, 1:30 p.m.-dark, Saturday and Sunday, 9 AM-dark.  May through October. Montgomery - Montgomery Elementary School, 9609 Montgomery Road. 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m. May through October. Wyoming Farmers Market - Wyoming Ave at Oak in the Village Green. 3-7 p.m. Tuesday. May through October. Kenwood Towne Center -7875 Montgomery Road., Tuesdays, 4-7 p.m. June through October. Madeira - Dawson Road between Miami and Maple Aves., downtown Madeira. Thursdays, 3:307 p.m. June through October. Milford - Milford Shopping Center, 1025 Lila Ave, 10 until dark, Saturday and Wednesday, June through November. Mount Washington - New Location- Plymouth and Beechmont, 3-7 p.m. Thursday. June through October. Mason Farmer's Market - Mason Intermediate School 56, 6370 Mason Montgomery Road, 8 a.m.-noon Saturdays, July-mid-September. I 102 I


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road trip

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snowville creamery jeni's splendid ice cream oeffa petali teas ali baba brothers drake meadery words by Ilene Ross photography by Gina Weathersby

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he long, open stretch of highway unrolled before us on a clear, sunny day. The destination had been punched into the GPS, but there was no particular time we needed to arrive. America is the land of the road trip, and although Gina and I were only leaving home for 36 hours, we were as enthusiastic as if headed on a cross-country journey. The car was loaded with our overnight bags, snacks, and of course, Gina’s cherished camera equipment. We were headed north towards the bucolic town of Granville, Ohio for the annual conference of The Ohio Ecological Food & Farm Association (OEFFA). Along the way there were to be some prearranged pit-stops, and a few unintended, yet completely wonderful surprises. But, won’t you agree that those typically turn out to be some of the most unforgettable parts of a road trip?

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snowville creamery

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Snowville Creamery When people care as deeply about their product as Warren and Victoria Taylor do, you know you’re getting the best there is on the market. The Taylors are the owners of Snowville Creamery, located in Pomeroy Ohio, a rural community located about thirty minutes south of Athens. The setting is the picture perfect 300 acre dairy farm of Bill Dix and Stacy Hall. The weather worn old sign on the side of the road is the only indication that there’s something special going on here. Blink, and you’ll miss it. Happy, healthy cows produce delicious dairy. The slogan of Snowville is, “milk the way it used to be”, and left to graze in green pastures all day, Bill and Stacy’s 260 Jersey, Guernsey, Brown Swiss, Milking Shorthorn, Friesian and Holstein cows provide some of the most luscious milk and cream you’ll ever drink. It’s certainly the most nutritious, as the milk from cows fed a primarily grass fed diet has a greater amount of Conjugated Linoleic Acid (CLA) and Omega-3 than those raised on grain. These “good fats” are loaded with powerful antioxidant properties. Snowville milk never contains artificial growth hormones, (rBSTused to increase milk production) antibiotics,(used on the animals to treat health problems caused by the rBST, and causing antibiotic resistance in humans), or pesticides. Over 10,000 gallons of milk goes through the creamery each week. Bill and Stacy’s farm is operated seasonally, meaning their cows aren’t milked in the winter. At that time of the year, Snowville purchases milk from two other farms that operate under the exact same sustainable farming practices. The milk is pasteurized*, and packaged as whole, 2%, skim, half & half, cream and chocolate milk. Snowville is also the exclusive provider of cream for Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams. A thick, Greek-like yogurt is in the planning stage, and Snowville can be found locally at Whole Foods and Madison’s at Findlay Market. *See “The Science Behind the Flavor” –page 115 I 113 I


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The Science Behind the Flavor Processing safe, all natural, organic dairy products of superior quality takes a delicate hand. Snowville Creamery’s in-house lab is where the milk, cream, and half-and-half are constantly monitored, ensuring a safe, wholesome product reaches the market. Snowville’s dairy tastes especially delicious, rich, and creamy because it comes from grass fed cows and is pasteurized at the lowest possible temperature, preserving its flavor and nutrition. Pasteurization is the process of using heat to destroy pathogenic organisms in foods. Snowville Creamery milk is pasteurized to just fewer than 170 degrees Fahrenheit for 18 seconds using the High Temperature Short Time (HTST) method. Using a higher temperature for longer periods of time, also known as “ultra-pasteurization” greatly reduces milk’s taste. Homogenization uses heat and pressure to break up the cream -or fat- molecules into smaller particles causing them to remain evenly distributed throughout the milk. Snowville milk is purposefully not homogenized, allowing the cream to rise to the top, ensuring a minimally processed, natural product, as Mother Nature intended. All that is needed is a gentle shake of the carton before enjoying! Milk mustache optional. I 115 I


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"Victoria gave us these delightful petite special edition snowville milk bottles...we brought them home and Nora styled them up pretty. how could we resist!"

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jeni's splendid ice cream

How much do we love Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams? Let me count the ways. Could it be that they make their ice cream with only our favorite Snowville Creamery milk and cream? Perhaps it’s their passion about turning out a product that you would literally lick off of any surface. Or face. Even in the coldest winter months, there is always a line out the door. It could be that their “Signature Flavors” are anything but; Bangkok Peanut, Brambleberry Crisp, Brown Butter Almond Brittle, Goat Cheese with Cognac Figs, Pistachio & Honey, Whiskey & Pecans, and one of our new favorites, Wildberry Lavender. There are more of these, as well as sorbets and frozen yogurts. Those are tasty, but we’ll stick to ice cream. We like our desserts rich. You can find Jeni’s in the 513 at Northside’s Picnic and Pantry, although nothing beats a visit to one of their shops for a few scoops in a freshly-made waffle cone. I 124 I


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oeffa

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ormed in 1979, the Ohio Ecological Food & Farm Association (OEFFA) is a membership-based, grassroots organization, dedicated to promoting and supporting sustainable, ecological, and healthful food systems. The membership includes farmers, consumers, gardeners, chefs, teachers, researchers, retailers, and students. OEFFA’s goal is to recreate a regionallyscaled farming, processing, and distribution system that moves food from farm to local fork. They provide members with a consumer’s guide to organic and ecological farms, organic certification for growers, and an apprenticeship for students to gain hands-on experience. * The theme of this year’s conferencethe state’s largest on sustainable agriculture- was Sowing the Seeds of Our Food Sovereignty, and it focused on among other things, corporate stranglehold on our food choices, increasing interest in alternative financing for small farms, the demand in labeling of genetically engineered foods and the development of more farm-to-school programs. Held at Granville’s local high school, the two day conference consisted of speakers, workshops, a children’s program, and an exhibit

hall. The latter provided the tastiest and most photogenic fare. Farmers, non-profits, food producers and government agencies all gathered in the school’s gym, providing a wide array of books, services, garden tools and of course delicious organic goodies. We enjoyed Ohio made corn chips, and were fortunate enough to meet the proud farmer who grew the corn. I’m setting up my own mini chicken farm this spring, and I was ecstatic when a local hatchery owner took an inordinate amount of her time to answer every single question I had. There was even an incubator full of fluffy little chicks waiting to be loved. One of my favorite purveyors was a young cheese producer, passionate about his product and his biodynamic farming principles. Actually, passion should have been the theme of the conference, but I get the feeling it’s already an unheard OEFFA refrain. It was gratifying to be part of an event where everyone shares the beliefs in food that we 513{eats} girls do, and we can’t recommend strongly enough supporting OEFFA and their vital works.

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www.oeffa.org

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oeffa

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Canal Junction Farmstead Cheese

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Sunflower Sundries in Cincinnati Clifton Natural Foods - Soaps Coffee Emporium East Hyde Park - Jams

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Gene Logsdon

signing his latest book Holy Shit: Managing Manure To Seed To Save Mankind

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petali teas

224 East Broadway, Granville, OH 43023 www.petaliteas.com

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Drink your teas slo as if it is the axis o Earth revolves - slowly, toward the future. Liv Only this mo

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owly and reverently, on which the world evenly, without rushing ve the actual moment. oment is life. ~Thich Nhat Hanh

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Did you know?

Pu-Erh Pu-Erh is a variety of fermented tea produced customarily in the Yunnan province of China. The name refers to Pu'er County, which was once a trading post for tea during the period known as Imperial China. While the aging process takes place, the tea is stored in Mandarin orange peels, somewhat like wine in a barrel. This aging/fermenting process can take place over several months or many years, typically in caves. The older “bricks� are highly prized, and Pu-Erh is on record as early as A.D. 476, used as a currency by nomads beyond the Great Wall of China. Pu-Erh is usually taken after meals; it’s considered a medicinal tea in China, as it is believed to help with digestion, as well as being helpful in breaking down the fat in foods. To prepare the tea, remove and discard the orange rind. Pull apart the leaves and steep the desired amount in just boiled water for 3-5 minutes or longer if desired. Due to the fermentation process, Pu-Erh will not become bitter. Enjoy this strong, smoky, black tea with milk and sugar as desired, although Ellie Gardner at Petali Teas in Granville, Ohio suggests serving it plain. I 146 I


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ali baba's

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You don’t always need to take the road less traveled in order to have an adventure. Generally a keen eye, an open mind, and an empty stomach are enough. One never knows the treasures a little red trailer on the side of the road holds, and in the case of Ali Baba’s, the food wasn’t the only reason to take a break. We thought we saw an elephant flash by, and knew we had to stop. We opened the car doors and immediately we were enveloped in an appealing and familiar aroma. Mr. Sheikh, (or Ali Baba, as he is known) is a delightful elderly gentleman peddling his Middle Eastern food - consisting of mostly lamb, beef and chicken Gyros - in the Athens, Ohio area. Due to a recent heart condition, Mr. Sheikh moves slowly as he cooks. Using a chair for support, he makes his way from refrigerator to grill to spit. The setting is simple, bare bones even, though this is anything but typical roadside fast food. Everything is home-made and from scratch. The meal is prepared with care, and Mr. Sheikh takes the time to show off pictures of his cherished grandchildren. His smile suggests shyness, but it widens to a proud grin as he explains that the curry samosas and dessert “bars of gold” were made that very morning by his wife. Stomachs and hearts full, we took off for our next stop. One of the joys of a road trip is that it affords these satisfying opportunities. Ali Baba and his red elephant gyro truck is one that we will remember fondly for years to come. I 151 I


“He who does not travel does not know the value of men.” ~ Moorish Proverb

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brothers drake meadery As

the only people in Ohio fermenting honey into the ancient wine known as mead, Oron and Sarah Benary of Brother’s Drake Meadery in Columbus take the business of “staying local” very seriously. In order to keep the carbon footprint of their urban winery, or “meadery” as minute as possible, only local, all organic ingredients are used, and their entire product stays in the area. Everything from production to packaging to sales happens in this one Short North location. Brother’s Drake is bright and filled with live music. There’s never a cover charge, so naturally you’re encouraged to tip your musicians generously. On the night that we visited, there was an excellent classical wind quintet featuring university students. Original art is prominent, and the Meadery often hosts gallery hops. If you’re not familiar with this oldest of all alcoholic beverages, go with the 5 mead sampler. Featuring names like Wild Ohio, Bergamot Blue, Scarlet Solstice, Pillow Talk, and others, it’s tough to settle on just one. The

traditional Wild Ohio consists of honey, water, and yeast, and is aged about nine months. It’s light, fruity, and refreshing. Others, allowed to mature for several years, are smooth, rich and intensely flavored. If you’re more of a cocktail lover, well, Brother’s Drake thinks that it might be the only place in the world making mixed drinks using mead. We liked the sound of the Wild Sweet Annie, made with Wild Ohio, whiskey, and Domaine Chandon Champagne, as well as the Shaw Brothers’ Blues, featuring whiskey, Bergamot Blue, and Aztec Chocolate Bitters. We’ll definitely be back soon for those.

Brothers Drake Meadery is located in the Short North district of Columbus at 26 E. 5th Avenue 614.388.8765

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truly grateful written by ilene ross photographed by gina weathersby styling by nora martini

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G

rateful Grahams are modest cookies charged with delivering a powerful message. As a stay at home mother with young children, Rachel Grubbs DesRochers and her husband James were managing nicely on one income, but she longed for a creative outlet that would enable her to work, and keep a good balance of her precious family time. “I wanted something that would teach my daughter that she could do whatever she wanted to, and also teach other moms that they really could have it all, home and a career,” says Rachel

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ne day, a friend came over and suggested that they bake graham crackers. Rachel agreed, although she was not especially fond of the traditional “crackly” cookies already available in stores. She knew that if this were to become something she would market, she wanted it to be different-soft, moist and chewy. And she wanted a “clean product”. One she could be proud of, with top quality, all natural ingredients. The fact that the cookies are vegan is particularly significant to Rachel. “Years ago, my dad went on a vegan diet after suffering from prostate cancer. I love being able to have a product for him,” she says.

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n about a month’s time, from start to finish, idea to packaged product, Grateful Grahams was born. After 2 years, with help from a community of friends, this charming, and sinfully delicious home-spun creation can now be found in over 20 outlets, including local vegan hot spot, Park + Vine, where the grahams were originally sold,

Jungle Jim’s, Dorothy Lane Market, and nationally in Whole Foods. Your S’mores will never be the same again. Thank goodness. o this day, Grateful Grahams is not only a community affair, but a family one as well. From the very beginning, Rachel’s babies have been with her at work. With eight month old Ellis cozily strapped to her back, Rachel lovingly docks and sugars trays of chocolate grahams, readying them for the giant commercial oven. Ellis giggles as his mother constantly bobs back and forth. Nursing breaks are taken as necessary, and when Ellis is ready to nap, he’s moved to a playpen nearby. As he becomes mobile, his days at the bakery will be numbered. It’s a natural progression of course, much like the growth of the company itself. Although still in its own infancy stage, Rachel has thoughts for future plans for her other “baby”, when Ellis is older. Graham cracker crusts seem to be the likely choice, and custom orders such as specialty shapes are already being filled.

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he cookies are in the oven and Rachel moves Ellis to her front side. It’s time to bag up a batch of already cooled grahams to fill the day’s orders. Each simple, brown paper bag holds six delicious treats, and sports a bright pink and purple Grateful Grahams label ringed with a circle of eager hands. The label signifies the communal spirit behind this “blissed out mama doing what she loves”, as Rachel describes herself on her Facebook page. “The name Grateful Grahams is a perfect fit”, says Rachel, “we are really grateful."

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" As women, we live in that fear state that we can't have a business and a family." ~Rachel DesRochers

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milk &

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brezen

a man on a mission to find a most authentic german pretzel story by ilene ross photographed and styled by gina weathersby

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ric Hintz spent his childhood years cooking and baking with his mother. So, after an 18 month student exchange program and internship in Munich, Germany left him with a slightly “salty” taste in his mouth, his life-long love of cooking left him with no alternative but to take matters into his own hands. Eric had fallen in love with the country’s traditional hot, soft pretzel, or “Brezen”, as they’re known in Bavaria, and he longed to find the same type of braided treat back home. He had grown used to grabbing one on the go everywhere he went over there, and upon his return to the states, tasting every soft pretzel he could find, was disappointed that there was no equivalent available. Thus began his mission to create the most authentic Brezen existing stateside. He started his research by reaching out to the friends he had made in Germany, who for the most part, shrugged their shoulders. After all, they neither made the pretzels themselves, nor harbored some deep, dark secret family recipe. They too

saw the snacks as grab-on-the-go street food that simply appeared on the streets as if by magic. He was left to his own devices. Eric began researching Brezen recipes online-there were historical and blog entries available-and through trial and error has come up with what he feels is the most accurate recreation of the typical Bavarian Brezen. It’s dark brown, with a lightly salty crust, and a soft, doughy interior. The traditional knotted shape with its crossed “arms” - some say it was designed to resemble a praying monk-is ideal with its plump body and thin, crispy top. Yellow mustard is the topping of choice for Eric, and he enjoys serving the Brezen at an annual Oktoberfest party he and his wife Jillian host for friends. The idea of marketing Brezen is a possibility he’s thinking of during his spare time. When Eric is not in the kitchen preparing America’s finest Brezen, he’s a freelance media designer.

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click image for link

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brezen the film

created and produced by eric hintz

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backyard

labor of love

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photography by gina weathersby


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Step

outside the back door of the cozy west side home of Jim and Julie Merkl, and the first thing you’ll see is the majestic stand of Sugar Maple and Box Elder trees. Upon closer inspection, you begin to notice the whitish tubing that embraces each tree, and a large, plastic container resting at each one’s base. These stately beauties not only contribute to a beautiful view; they’re also hard at work producing one of Mother Nature’s tastiest liquids; sugary, sweet sap. Mention Ohio and maple syrup in the same sentence and you’re likely to get a quizzical look from most people. But according to the Ohio Maple Producer's Association, our state actually ranks between 4th and 5th each year among the 12 maple product producing states in the United States. There are approximately 900 families that produce a total of nearly 100,000 gallons of maple syrup each year. In the spring and summer months, Jim Merkl is the Audio Engineer for the Cincinnati Reds. He’s the guy in charge of all of the music you hear at the stadium, from the National Anthem, to each player’s theme song. When the cold weather sets in, Jim works as a free-lance engineer, as well as a backyard maple syrup hobbyist. He lovingly tends to his nearly two acre ’farm’, harvesting enough sap each season to produce about four gallons of this liquid gold. It’s a labor intensive process, but after a friend ’s suggestion to tap the trees a decade ago, the delightful result of all that hard work quickly became Jim and Julie’s go-to gift for weddings and holidays - there was no going back. Although the apparently meager harvest may not seem worth the exertion to many, Jim believes that his passion and the terroir both contribute to a flavor which is unsurpassed by any other product he has ever tasted. Each day, Jim heads out with his boisterous dog Kloi, (pronounced like Chloe) to check on production, and collect the sap from each tree. The property is exceedingly steep-foraged walking sticks are provided for visitors- and each gallon of sap weighs 11 pounds. No gym visits are needed during the winter for Jim. The air is brisk and there are thin layers of ice forming in some of the crystal clear pools of sap. Jim moves from tree to tree, gathering the liquid until his bucket is full, and then he begins the precipitous trek back up the hill towards the house to prepare for the boiling down process. Jim lights a fire in the stove, and the homey smells of burning wood and boiling syrup quickly permeate the air as we admire bottles of last year’s lovingly gleaned harvest. We share recipes and favorite uses for the deep, amber liquid, which of course are not limited to breakfast. In fact, we’re surprised to hear that Jim and Julie have never used their syrup on pancakes. Jim says, ’I love it simply poured over oatmeal, and lately I've been making a batch of granola almost every week with it. We have a maple cheesecake recipe that is so good we served it at our wedding reception-it's from a maple cookbook that my sister gave us a few years ago-and we've had good luck with apple pie, maple-basil mustard, and glazed butternut squash - also from the same book. Maple glazed salmon is on the menu tonight! ’ We here at 513{eats} agree that the spoils far outweigh the effort. I 191 I


liquid gold

by jim merkl

“OK...now bear in mind that this is my own take on a centuries old process, but it's fairly economical and it works. It is time consuming and can be labor intensive. It can slow you down and put you in tune with another cycle of the earth. You can certainly buy pure maple syrup that costs a lot less. But I guarantee it won’t be as good as yours. Maple syrup is concentrated maple sap. Sap is 1-3% sugar, and syrup is about 66-70% sugar. Time and

heat are the only two factors in the reduction equation. I've been told that any tree in the maple family will produce usable sap. Just like wine, species, geography, soil, and weather affect the flavor, so remember that the syrup you produce will be unique. My property has silver maple, sugar maple and box elder trees which have all produced well. In fact, a specific gravity test a few years ago indicated that the box elder sap is sweeter than the silver maple sap (Go Elder!). continued on page 195 I 192 I


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a sweet morning journey

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Sugar maples, sycamores, and almost any tree in the maple family can sweeten your life. Trees that are over ten inches in diameter are probably mature enough to be tapped. I'll put up to three taps around the trunks of my biggest, oldest trees. The trees heal up over the summer without your help and are not harmed by the process. Many people think that sugaring is a springtime activity. This may be true in Vermont, but here in southern Ohio, our sugar season begins much earlier. Warm days and cold nights stimulate the trees to start the sap flowing-when temperatures are below freezing at night and above freezing during the day. During the winter of 2005-2006, we had a hard freeze for a few weeks in December, and by New Year’s Eve, the weather warmed enough to move the sap. I began tapping my trees on New Year’s Day. By the end of January, the flow had

mostly stopped and sugar time had ended. While it makes a lovely postcard, I've found that hanging buckets on trees is not the way to go. Buckets get heavier as they fill, and if they're hung on the old-fashioned maple spiles (the little metal spout), the weight tends to pull out the spile, and can damage the tree. I have used rope or wire to hang the buckets under the spile, which alleviates the weight problems, but an open bucket tends to collect rain, snow, and all sorts of unwanted debris like leaves, bark chips, ants, and occasional bird feces. For big trees that have 2 or 3 taps, I like to use the big laundry detergent jugs like the ones from Sam's or Costco. For single taps, plastic milk jugs, two liter soda bottles, and big plastic juice bottles work great. Any big lightweight container that you can find or liberate from your neighbor's recycling bin will do the trick. I 195 I

I'll put these on the ground at the base of the tree, with flexible vinyl tubing running into them from the taps. Instead of buying expensive spiles, I use plastic racking canes from the homebrew store. These are long, hard plastic tubes used to siphon in the homebrew process. The outside diameter is 3/8 inch. I cut the racking tubes into 2 inch lengths, then grind a shoulder onto one end using a hand cranked pencil sharpener. To tap the tree, use a 5/16" drill bit and drill a hole about two inches deep into a clean spot on the trunk about 3 feet from the ground. The hole needs to be deep enough to penetrate the xylem of the tree, where the tree is sending sugars stored in the roots to the branches to begin leaf production. These sugars were produced last summer by the leaves. Make sure the sawdust is out of the hole, then hammer the shouldered end of continued on page 200


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“it can slow you down and put you in tune with another cycle of the earth” ~jim

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the rigid plastic tube into the hole. Be careful not to split the tree around the hole--you don't want the sap leaking from behind your spile. If the sap is running, there should be a slow steady drip of sap from the tube. I buy a 20 foot roll of flexible vinyl tubing with an inside diameter of 3/8", and cut lengths to fit from the taps to my collection jugs. This tubing is available from the homebrew store as well, but it’s cheaper, although not quite as flexible, at the hardware store. I check my trees regularly, and collect the sap as the weather and flow dictates. The sap is sterile as it runs from the tree and is quite tasty and refreshing. Using coffee filters and a strainer, I measure the sap as I filter it into a large pot. I use a ten gallon pot that belonged to my grandfather. I begin boiling off the water outdoors, on a freestanding propane cooker. This can be done on the stovetop, but I can reduce the volume of liquid much quicker on a higher flame outdoors. One year, the kitchen was so humid from this part of the process, that the paint started peeling off of the pantry ceiling. That’s when I decided to take it outside. I'll also use a stockpot on our indoor woodburning stove--it's slower, but it humidifies the air and it smells great. A huge pot can get a bit awkward on a woodstove. A large rectangular pan is often used because the greater surface area allows for faster evaporation, but I'm still searching the thrift stores for something suitable.

As the water evaporates, fine white particles will precipitate out of the sap and collect on the bottom of the pot. This “sugar sand” is composed of certain minerals in the sap, and can scorch if left to accumulate on the bottom of the pot. When the volume of the sap is reduced by about half, I’ll break out the strainer and coffee filters again and filter the sap. At this point, I’ll move the concentrated sap into a four gallon stock pot, freeing up the big pot for the next round of sap. This pot sits on our wood burning stove, slowly cooking out even more water. I repeat filtering process when the volume is reduced by half again, eventually moving the concentrate into a one gallon stock pot. The same liquid is filtered three or four times before it’s finished. At some point, the viscosity of the liquid makes filtering impractical, so it’s good to remove as much sediment as possible early in the process. Another option is to leave each batch of syrup just a little thin, storing it in clean, sanitized mason jars in the fridge. At the end of the season, combine all the jars in a stock pot and cook it down slowly to its final consistency. You’ll notice a certain amount of sediment in the end, but it’s unavoidable and harmless. Let it settle out for a few weeks. Then pour the syrup into smaller bottles and leave most of the sediment in the big jug. I use the dregs for cooking. It may be visually unappealing, but it has all those extra minerals and the flavor is the same.

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continued on page 203


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I am assuming that you understand the basics of kitchen canning and sanitation. Fresh hot syrup poured into sanitized glass containers shouldn't develop mold, but without proper attention to sanitation, maple syrup can get moldy. If so, just filter the syrup through cheesecloth to remove the mold, boil it again, and store in a clean, sanitized container. I'll use four liter glass wine jugs to store the syrup, then pour it off into small glass bottles like those from salad dressing and tonic water.

B

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"I been to Sugar Town, I shook the sugar down" -Bob Dylan

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Maple Roasted Carrots

recipe on page 212 I 206 I


Just add Maple I 207 I


styling and photography gina weathersby

Maple Roa

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asted Pears 4 pears, halved 1 cup maple syrup 2 pieces orange rind 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped 2 sticks cinnamon double (thick) cream or ice cream to serve Preheat oven to 400F. Place the pears, maple syrup, orange rind, vanilla and cinnamon in a baking dish and toss to gently combine. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until tender and caramelized. Serve with cream or ice-cream. Serves 8 Recipe courtesy of Donna Hay

Maple and Apple Cider Vinegar Braised Porkloin stuffed with rosemary, walnuts and prunes 1 tenderloin pork 1 brown onion, peeled and quartered 1 head garlic, halved 8 sprigs thyme (plus extra for sprinkling) 1 TB fresh chopped rosemary (plus extra for sprinkling) 1 cup maple syrup 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup chopped walnuts 1/8 cup chopped prunes sea salt and cracked pepper Preheat oven to 350F. Brown the quartered onions in a little olive oil. Push aside and brown all sides of the tenderloin. Remove the tenderloin, slice in half (not all the way through) and stuff with the mixture of chopped thyme, rosemary, walnuts and prunes. Secure with twine. Place back in dutch oven. Add halved garlic. In a separate bowl, mix together the maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Pour over the tenderloin. Roast for 1 hour. Remove the tenderloin, keep warm. Reduce the juice until thick and bubbly. Return the tenderloin to warm through. Serves 6-8 Recipe adapted from Donna Hay Magazine : Issue 51 Maple and Apple Cidar Vinegar Braised Pork I 209 I


Maple Munch Granola 4 cups old-fashioned oats 1 cup coarsely shopped nuts (cashews, pecans or almonds) 1 cup raw (unroasted) sunflower seeds 1/2 cup sesame seeds 1/2 cup shredded unsweetened coconut 1/2 tsp salt 6 TBS pure maple syrup 6 TBS light tasting vegetable oil, such as sunflower oil 1 cup chopped dried raisins or dates

Combine the maple syrup and oil in a saucepan; warm over low heat. Pour over the oat mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon, then roll up your sleeves and work the mixture with your hands until everything is moistened. Spread-no more than about 1/2 thick-on baking sheets and roast for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden. Yield: About 8 cups

Preheat oven to 300F. Toss the oats, nuts, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, coconut, and salt to mix in a large bowl. I 210 I

From the cookbook Maple Syrup Cookbook by Ken Haedrich


Buttermilk Corn Cakes

with warm maple syrup

recipe on page 213 I 211 I


Reci

White Chocolate-Cherry Bread Pudding

Maple Roasted Carrots

For the bread pudding 12 egg yolks 4 cups heavy cream 1 1/3 cup sugar 1tsp. pure vanilla extract 1tsp. ground cinnamon 1 loaf fresh Challah bread, cut into cubes 1 1/3 cup white chocolate chips 1 1/3 cup dried tart cherries

6-8 carrots 1/4 cup pure maple syrup 1 tb olive oil 2 TBS brown sugar salt and pepper to taste 6-10 small sage leaves Preheat oven to 375 degrees . In a large bowl, mix all of the ingredients together EXCEPT for sage leaves. Toss to combine and spread on a baking sheet. Roast covered with a foil for 20 minutes, then remove foil. Scatter sage leaves over the carrots and bake for another 5 to 10 minutes until carrots and tender and sage leaves are crispy.

For the Caramel Sauce ½ cup butter 1 cup brown sugar 2 cups heavy cream ½ cup dried tart cherries Prepare the bread pudding: Whisk together eggs, sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon in a large mixing bowl. Add heavy cream, gently whisk to combine all. After the custard is made, fold in Challah, white chocolate, and cherries. Allow the mixture to soak for at least 30 minutes, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed by the bread. Preheat standard oven to 350F. Coat a large bread pan with non-stick spray, or butter. Pour the bread/custard mixture into the pan. Be sure to leave at least an inch of space at the top of the pan as the bread pudding will rise as it bakes. Cover the pan and bake in a standard oven at 350F for 90 minutes or until the top of the pudding is golden brown and slightly firm to the touch. Remove bread pudding from the oven and allow to cool, uncovered, overnight. Prepare the caramel sauce: Combine butter, brown sugar, and cherries in a medium saucepan over low heat. Stir occasionally until brown sugar and butter have melted completely. Vigorously whisk in the heavy cream until combined. Check to be sure that all of the brown sugar has melted. Immediately remove from heat. Allow to cool.

Molly's Ginger Syrup For the Ginger Syrup 8 cups water 8 cups sugar 1 hand of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced Place the water, sugar, and ginger in a large saucepan over medium-high heat and bring almost to a boil until sugar is dissolved. Do not stir constantly, as this will cause large sugar crystals to form in your syrup. Let the syrup cool in the pan. When the syrup is room temperature, strain out the ginger, and pour into bottle(s). The syrup will keep in a refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. For the Dark & Stormy Over ice in a rocks glass, stir together 1 ¼ ounce Gosling Rum and ¾ ounce Ginger Syrup. Fill to the top with sparkling water. Enjoy!

Bringing the dish together: After the bread pudding has cooled completely, slice the loaf in 1.5 to 2 inch slices. Cut each slice in half from corner to corner. Place the wedges of bread pudding in a sauté pan and cover with caramel sauce. Heat the pudding and caramel over medium heat, flipping each piece of pudding once. Once the caramel is bubbling hot and the bread pudding is soft throughout, remove from the stove, plate and serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Enjoy! I 212 I


ipes

Buttermilk Corn Cakes

herbed baked eggs

1/2 tsp minced fresh garlic 1/2 tsp minced fresh thyme leaves 1/2 tsp minced fresh rosemary leaves 2 TBS minced fresh parsley 2 TBS freshly grated Parmesan cheese 4 extra-large eggs 2 TBS cup heavy cream 1 TBS unsalted butter 8 slices pre-cooked bacon Kosher salt Freshly cracked pepper Toasted French bread Preheat the broiler for 5 minutes and place the oven rack 6 inches below the heat. Combine the garlic, thyme, rosemary and Parmesan cheese and set aside. Carefully crack each egg into each of 4 small bowls (you wont' be baking them in these) without breaking the yolks. (It's very important t have all the eggs ready to go before you start cooking.)

Place 4 individual gratin dishes on a baking sheet. Place 1/2 TB of cream and 1/4 TB of butter in each dish and place under the broiler for about 3 minutes, until hot and bubbly. Arrange bacon to outside jof gratin dishes. Quickly, but carefully, pour 3 eggs into each gratin dish and sprinkle evenly with the herb mixture, then sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Place back under the broiler for 5 to 6 minutes, until the whites of the eggs are almost cooked. (Rotate the baking sheet once if they aren't cooking evenly.) The eggs will continue to cook even after you take them out of the oven. Allow to set for 60 seconds and serve hot with toasted bread. Serves 4

1 cup cold water 1/2 cup cornmeal. stone-ground 2/3 cup buttermilk 2/3 cup plus 1-2 TB milk 1/4 cup blackstrap molasses 2 eggs, beaten 1/4 cup butter, melted 1 1/4 cups whole-wheat flour 1 1/2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp salt butter for greasing skillet warm pure maple syrup for drizzling on top Stir together the water and cornmeal i a small, heavy bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes, until quite thick. Scrape into a large bowl. Whisk in, one at a time, the buttermilk, milk, molasses, eggs and butter. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a separate large bowl. Toss to mix. Make a well in the dry ingredients, add the egg mixture, and stir just until blended. Let the batter stand for several minutes, then thin with a tablespoon or two of milk, if needed; the batter would run thickly off the ladle. Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat, then butter it lightly. Drop the batter by heaping tablespoonfuls and cook until the bottoms are golden and bubbles are popping on the surface, about 1 minute. Turn and cook 1 minute on the other side. Keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter.

*We added crumbled goat cheese to the dishes before cooking. Adapted from the cookbook Barefoot In Paris by Ina Garten

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Yield: About 18 four-inch pancakes. From the cookbook Maple Syrup Cookbook by Ken Haedrich


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outtakes


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happy spring until next time follow us for inbetween issue goodness at... 513{eats} facebook twitter

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513eats march 2012 issue  

513eats, march 2012, issue, cincinnati, spring

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