THE STATURE OF LIBERTY
KIRSTEN SETO
A look at Vivien Westwood’s groundbreaking revival of an 18th century, restrictive garment, the corset.
Inspiration
Boucher, Francois. Hercules and Omphale. 1730s. Oil on canvas. 740 cm. x 900 cm.
Westwood’s inspiration for the Boucher Corset was drawn from her love for art and history. She said, “All my ideas come from studying the ideas of the past. There is a link between art and fashion. I couldn’t design a thing if I didn’t look at art.” Her love for art and history also influenced her Spring/ Summer 1993 collection, Hercules and Omphale, based on the Baroque period and Romanticism. Westwood’s inspiration for her collections often came from museums and art galleries, such as The Wallace Collection in London, where she found inspiration for her Portrait collection, based on 18th-century decorative arts and paintings.
A HistoryDesignof the Corset
“For me the focus of a woman is the waist... this corset we made, it was really, really sexy... A real wavethe-flag moment of euphoria.”
The corset has been a part ofwomen’s fashion with evidence of their use dating back to 1600 BC. However, in the 16th and 18th centuries, corsets became controversial for representing aristocracy and being seen as a symbol of oppression. Corsets were designed to slim the waist while supporting the bust and pushing the shoulders back. The 18th-century stay was a stiff, boned garment that supported the woman’s bust, slimmed the waist, and was made from cotton twill with baleen and steel bones.
In 1990, Westwood created her Boucher Corset for her Autumn/ Winter collection. Westwood’s corset from the Autumn/Winter 1990 collection draws inspiration from the Baroque period, a time characterized by grandeur, ornate decoration, and an emphasis on elaborate and theatrical designs.
The Corset
The corset featured an asymmetrical design, with shoulder straps featuring classical motifs printed in gold and mauve and side panels made of gold lycra fabric. The corset also had a zippered back and was paneled with more flexible, nontraditional boning made from polyamide, polyester, and lycra. The runway styled the corset with pearls and chokers, and the collection had more period inspiration. The juxtaposition of classical motifs, modern fabrics, and accessories such as pearls and chokers added a unique fusion of historical and contemporary elements, further accentuating the corset’s reimagined perspective and pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion.
The corset’s design inspiration, François Boucher’s painting Daphnis and Chloe, depicts a romanticized scene from an ancient Greek novel. The painting features two lovers embracing in a pastoral setting, with lush greenery and soft colors evoking a sense of sensuality and beauty. Westwood honed in on the erotic aspect of the painting, using it as inspiration for her corset design and the kissing on stage. The Boucher corset represents a fusion of art and fashion, with Westwood’s appreciation for classical art informing her innovative approach to design. By drawing inspiration from François Boucher’s painting, Westwood not only paid homage to the artistry of the past but also challenged societal perceptions of beauty and sexuality, transforming the corset into a powerful statement of artistic expression.
Liberation of Sexuality
Models kiss as they wear outfits during a fashion show by British designer Vivienne Westwood. (Photo by John van Hasselt/Sygma via Getty Images)
During the runway presentation of the Boucher corset, Westwood had her models kiss on stage, symbolizing sexual liberation and freedom. This provocative display challenged societal norms at the time and celebrated female sexuality. The name of the piece itself, “Stature of Liberty,” emphasized how they were no longer constricting undergarments enforced by patriarchal beauty standards for women but could instead be reclaimed as bold statements of female liberation through
a reimagined structure and perspective. With its unique design and symbolism, the Boucher corset has become an iconic piece in the history of fashion, representing Westwood’s defiance of conventions, her commitment to promoting freedom of expression, and a woman’s right to reclaim a garment representing misogynistic power as a stature of feminist sexual liberation. The Boucher corset’s lasting impact is show through the intersection of fashion, feminism, and societal norms.
Popular Culture
Westwood’s designs celebrated female sexuality, bringing it to the forefront and subverting the purpose of the historical garment. Westwood’s influence on fashion is evident, with a Boucher print revival in 2021 and her designs featured with pop culture icons, such as Bella Hadid and the corset appearing in the wedding dress design for Carrie Bradshaw in the Sex and the City film from 2008, an iconic television franchise that changed the stigma of women’s sexual empowerment. This continued recognition and integration of Westwood’s designs in popular culture demonstrates the enduring impact of her work in reshaping the perception of female sexuality.
Westwood’s Mark Industry
Why we see this corset and print in stores today
Westwood’s Mark on the Industry
he impact of Westwood’s corset designs can be seen among fashion trends today. Brands such as Urban Outfitters take inspiration from her work by selling corsets of similar design. In recent years, corsets for everyday wear have adapted to 21st-century aesthetics and trends. Repurposing vintage trends have stemmed from sustainability and the climate crisis in the 21st century alongside sex-positive, LGBTQ, and feminist movements that exponentially increased awareness through social media during Covid-19. Westwood’s liberating designs empowered underprivileged demographics and left an impactful mark on the fashion industry by transforming the corset from a symbol of oppression to liberation, making it acceptable to wear as outerwear rather than underwear. Westwood’s designs transformed the corset from a symbol of oppression to liberation, empowering women by reshaping the narrative and promoting body positivity.
