FIRST LOOK
Annstown
Beach, Copper Coast, Waterford
WHICH IS THE MOST HAUNTED CASTLE IN THE COUNTRY?
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a
with a host of fantastic restaurants, cafés and pubs – so make sure you bring a healthy appetite.
This wonderful region draws visitors back like a magnet year after year
Welcome, visitor!
Welcome to Ireland’s Ancient East, a region which combines the drama of the Celtic Sea coast with the smooth, beautiful beaches of the Irish coast. This is the home of sequestered mountain ranges like the Blackstairs, the Comeragh and the improbably named Knockmealdowns, all offering a still solitude so rare at these latitudes. And here is where five of Ireland’s great rivers flow into the sea –including the Suir, the Nore and the Barrow, known as the Three Sisters.
Welcome, too, to the sunny South –Wexford’s Rosslare sees the most sunshine of any town in the country. The climate is perfect – the least blustery of any part
of Ireland, it also has the record for the highest temperature (33.3 degrees Celsius), at Kilkenny (the clement conditions make tillage and fruit farming uniquely predominant here. Make sure you taste some famous Wexford strawberries or Carlow Rooster potatoes).
It’s not all pretty surroundings and lovely vistas, impressive though they undoubtedly are. Ireland’s Ancient East also has great modern shopping, restaurants, arts and culture, and some of the best places to stay in Ireland. All in all, you’ve picked a great time to visit this wonderful region, so please enjoy everything it has to offer. ■
Tankardstown Copper Mine, Waterford
This region offers an abundance of things to do with days out and top attractions for the whole family to enjoy
Great days out
From the dramatic Celtic Sea coast to majestic castles and modern shopping centres, Ireland’s Ancient East boasts something for everyone. History buffs make the rounds of intriguing museums, while families launch into adventures across the countryside. If you’re ready for an action-packed itinerary, this is a region that’s ready to impress with a wealth of choices for fabulous days out.
Stroll between art galleries and museums in crafty towns, then travel around Ireland’s Ancient East to see castles and churches decorating nature’s backdrop.
If you’re into crafts, you’ll never be bored in this region. Start your journey at Kilkenny Design Centre, which is part of Kilkenny’s
Huntington Castle gives a glimpse of how the Anglo-Irish Protestant Ascendancy lived
Castle Yard. It also houses the National Design and Craft Gallery, one of the most exciting venues in Ireland.
The Medieval Mile Museum, housed in a converted church on the tucked-away St Mary’s Lane, is the perfect place to find out more about the city’s rich past. For centuries, Kilkenny was the site of Ireland’s oldest brewery, Smithwick’s. Today it’s no longer operating, but the excellent visitor centre is good value – not least for the tasting sessions.
Cushendale Woollen Mills, in Graignamanagh, is a great example of the blending of arts and crafts with history in the area. The mills stand on the site of the first mills established by Cistercian monks in 1204.
Huntington Castle and Gardens, South Carlow
The Irish National Heritage Park, Ferrycarrig
Carlow County Museum leaves you in little doubt as to its historical and cultural vibrancy. Curios include the last cigarette smoked by Irish nationalist martyr Kevin Barry and a fossilised 340-million-year-old squid. You’ll also see a tribute to John Tyndall, the scientist who, in 1859, finally proved the existence of the greenhouse effect.
The Waterford Museum of Treasures comprises different museums within steps of each other in the Viking Triangle. Admire the huge stone fortress of Reginald’s Tower and see the Treasures of Viking Waterford. You’ll discover the Treasures of Medieval Waterford in Ireland’s only Medieval Museum. Built in 1743, the Neo-Classical Bishop’s Palace houses historic gems like a fantasy shell grotto in a mahogany cabinet. Don’t miss a trip to the King of the Vikings VR experience. This unique attractions shows visitors what life was like in a reconstructed Viking house.
The finest example of a medieval town in Ireland, the tiny city of Kilkenny is home to an imposing Norman castle overlooking the winding River Nore. Although originally built by the Anglo-Norman William Marshal in 1195, it’s seen several changes over the years and has a remarkable mix of styles. Saunter around Kilkenny Castle park and pop into the quaint tea room featuring
original Victorian utensils.
In South Carlow, Huntington Castle and Gardens provides a glimpse of how the AngloIrish Protestant Ascendancy lived. It was built in 1625 and the descendants of the original castle’s builders still live on site. Luckily for you, part of their glorious house is open to guests. The Castle includes a temple to Isis and superb gardens first established in the 1680s.
Dominating views across Waterford Estuary, Ballyhack Castle features a tower that’s five stories tall. Head inside to see replica armour depicting the Crusades and the Normans. Get your camera ready for Enniscorthy Castle, once the home of Norman knights and Irish rebels. The dungeon hosts rare medieval wall art and the battlements feature panoramic views over the countryside.
A walk down Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile brings you to the city’s St Canice’s Cathedral, where you’ll climb to the top of its round tower. Built on a site that hosted Christian worship since the sixth century, this cathedral was the centrepiece of ‘Irishtown’ where Catholics were forced to live outside the city walls. Follow it up with a visit to the Catholic Cathedral of St Mary’s, built in the early Gothic style.
The Black Abbey is just down the hill from the Catholic St Mary’s Cathedral on l
Take inspiration from Ireland’s earliest visitors and explore the ancient Cooley Peninsula and mystical mountains of Mourne by ferry. Carlingford Lough is the perfect destination for a scenic day trip, for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and hikers and bikers.
Step back in time and explore Rothe House & Garden – Kilkenny’s magnificent 16th-century Merchant townhouse.
Rothe House, once the home of wealthy merchant John Rothe, is a testament to Kilkenny’s most prosperous era. Built between 1594 and 1610, delve into the rich history of Kilkenny while exploring the three interconnected houses and cobbled courtyards. The crowning glory is the restored walled garden, an oasis of calm nestled away from the busy city streets.
Browse in the Merchant Shop, each item a celebration of Irish craft and design.
Guided Tours I Genealogy I Exhibitions I Events
OPENING HOURS
April – October
Monday – Sunday
10.00 – 18.00 (last admission 17.00)
November – March
Tuesday to Sunday
10.00 – 17.00 (last admission 16.00)
16 Parliament Street, Kilkenny, Ireland R95 P89C +353 (0)56 772 2893 reception@rothehouse.com www.rothehouse.com
Make your trip to Kilkenny unforgettable by exploring a hidden treasure of exquisite jewellery creations located within the grand 18th Century walls at 10 Patrick Street, just a short stroll from Kilkenny Castle.
Rich Heritage: With roots dating back to 1968, our shop in Kilkenny embodies Ireland’s cultural legacy in jewellery. Our creations, crafted by iconic designer Rudolf Heltzel, offer visitors a glimpse into the nation’s rich artistic heritage.
Exquisite Designs: Located within historic walls at 10 Patrick Street, our shop showcases meticulously crafted jewellery, featuring vibrant gemstones and scintillating diamonds. Each piece goes beyond luxury to make a deeply personal statement.
Immersive Experience: Whether you’re a connoisseur of fine jewellery or simply intrigued by exquisite craftsmanship, a visit to our workshop gallery promises an engaging experience. Drop by for a casual browse or make an appointment to explore Rudolf Heltzel’s world further, ensuring your trip to Kilkenny is unforgettable.
18ct Yellow gold ring, set with rare white exceptional quality natural diamond surround and one Ceylon Blue Sapphire
18ct Yellow gold pendant on chain, one 3.71ct Natural Red Spinel and exceptional quality natural diamonds
18ct yellow gold investment pendant on choker, set with one Mabe Pearl, and Special cut black druzy agate (Onyx) 18ct
18ct yellow gold investment pendant on handmade chain, set with Tourmaline wings
Experience the beauty of the River Suir with Osprey Viking Cruises!
Enjoy bespoke tours like history cruises, sunset trips to Mount Congreve Gardens, afternoon tea around King’s Island, live music, nature tours, photography expeditions, corporate events, and custom charters. Call Captain Andy to create your perfect river adventure! 085 196 7779 www.ospreyvikingcruises.ie ospreyvikingcruises@gmail.com
Black Mill Street. Named after the Blackfriars of the Dominican Order, it was swept into politics to become the capital of the Irish Catholic Confederation in the Eleven Years’ War, part of the Civil Wars of the Three Kingdoms.
In terms of atmospheric ruins, Dunbrody Abbey is photogenic to say the least. It’s located on the Hook Peninsula and was founded in 1170 after the Norman invasion of Ireland. You’ll learn all about its fascinating history, but there’s plenty more to do on the grounds. Have a rest with home-made scones at the Aroma Tea Rooms & Café, amble through the maze and take the kids for a round on the mini-golf course.
Hands up if you feel like a day by the sea, a picnic in the park or a wildlife-spotting adventure! There’s all that and more for families in Ireland’s Ancient East.
You’ll have around 16 hectares of formal and informal gardens to explore at Altamont Garden near Carlow. Take a walk through the Arboretum and the Bog Garden, then step into the Ice Age Glen beneath a canopy of ancient oaks. From the woodland to floral beds, it all begins or ends with tea and delicious treats by Sugar & Spice at Altamont Walled Garden Café. For lush walking trails and stunning picnic spots, head to Oak Park
Forest Park. Colour-coded circular walkways ensure no one gets lost!
In County Wexford, there’s the spectacular Johnstown Castle Estate, Museum and Gardens which is managed by the Irish Heritage Trust. The castle itself is a gem of Gothic revival architecture and it’s surrounded by spectacular ornamental grounds designed by Daniel Robertson. Discover a range of beautifully sculptured walks and a Victorian walled garden.
Also in Wexford is Kilmokea Country Manor & Gardens, which is the perfect place for a day out for all the family. It’s rightly renowned for seven glorious acres of award-winning gardens, with unusual sub-tropical plants and wonderful organic vegetables. You’ll find serenity in the walled garden and enjoy a series of waterfalls in the woodland garden.
Uncover more than 400 years of history at Wells House & Gardens. Take part in a guided tour of the 17th-century house, visit the animal farm or explore its enchanted woodland, gardens and arboretum.
There’s plenty to do for the energetic little or not so little people in your life in Wexford! Secret Valley Wildlife Park lets you get up close to furry residents, take pony rides and hop on the peddle tractors.
Pirates Cove offers swashbuckling fun l
Johnstown Castle Estate, Museum and Gardens, Wexford
See What You’re Missing!
We are located in Carlow Town’s Cultural Quarter on College Street. Our four galleries house a wide collection of items and artefacts that highlight the history and heritage of County Carlow. These include the 19th Century pulpit from Carlow Cathedral, the original gallows trapdoor from Carlow Gaol, the smoking pipe of Captain Myles Keogh, killed at the Battle of Little Big Horn, items relating to John Tyndall, the Carlow scientist who discovered the greenhouse effect, a 340-millionyear-old fossilized squid, and artefacts connected to Kevin Barry, an 18-year-old medical student who was executed for his role in the Irish War of Independence.
Opening Hours
Please visit our website at www.carlowmuseum.ie for details of our current opening hours
T. 0599131554
E. museum@carlowcoco.ie
Carlow County Museum, College Street, Carlow Town R93 E3T2
FREE ENTRY
Heritage for Life
Estate, Museum & Gardens
The National Famine Museum | Strokestown Park, Roscommon
Johnstown Castle, Estate Museum & Gardens, Wexford
Fota House, Arboretum & Gardens, Cork
Waterford Greenway cycle route
for all ages. You’ll venture through giant caves, a cascading waterfall and a full-sized shipwreck of a treasure-laden galleon on one of Europe’s best adventure golf courses.
You’ll explore plenty of walks and cycling routes for all abilities across the region. One of the best is the Waterford Greenway cycle route which stretches from Waterford city to the coastal town of Dungarvan. Here, you’ll relax by the sea or dive into water sports like sea kayaking to see the sights. If you love golf, you’ll find no less than three courses within a short drive of each other.
County Kilkenny offers a plethora of lovely riverside towns and beautiful parks. Nore Valley Park offers a little bit of everything for kids and big kids alike. Visit the pet farm to meet the animals and play a round of crazy golf. Tractor rides thrill the little ones while they’re exploring the park, and go-karts bring heart-pumping adventure. The Kilkenny Activity Centre serves up the thrills with paintball, bubble football and giant darts.
Give the whole family a culture fix at fantastic attractions throughout Ireland’s Ancient East. The Kilkenny Union Workhouse offers an award-winning tour telling the story of brothers John and Patrick who sought refuge in the workhouse in 1842. Located on the banks of the River Slaney, The
The
Greenway cycle route stretches from Waterford to Dungarvan
Irish National Heritage Park in Ferrycarrig brings the story of human settlement to life with costumed guides. The open-air museum features fantastic reconstructions of huts and castles surrounded by woodland.
At the Dunbrody Famine Ship, you’ll explore an authentic reproduction of an 1840s emigrant vessel, complete with guided tours by costumed performers. The experience provides insight into the bravery of the Irish people during the Fáilte Ireland Family Friendly Programme, and it’s custom-made to ensure it’s suitable for all ages.
You could randomly point at a map of Ireland’s Ancient East, blindfolded, and find exciting things to do. From lush country walking trails to fascinating museums and fun-filled adventure parks, all ages are catered for. The only problem you’ll have is choosing what to do next! ■
DON’T MISS
Our top things to see and do when visiting this picturesque region
1
Get in touch with nature
These counties have some of the finest hill, coastal and riverside walks in the country. Cycle across the impressive Waterford Greenway, or hit the South Leinster Way past Mount Leinster. There is also an excellent walk from Thomastown to Inistoige along the Barrow. There is excellent kayaking among the region’s many epic rivers.
2
Hook Head I
Wexford’s south west corner is among the scenic highlights of the region, and is punctuated by ruined castles, abbeys and beaches. The impressive ruins of the 13th-century Tintern Abbey (also the work of the industrious William Marshal) are surrounded by woodland walks. For the windswept wilds, visit Hook Lighthouse. Walk the 3km coastal route from Slade, and look out for dolphins.
3
St Canice’s Cathedral
St Canice’s Cathedral is one of the most prominent sights in Kilkenny. Many believe the construction of the massive Gothic cathedral began in the 1250s and was completed in 1285, but the religious roots of the site extend back to the 6th century, when the Church of St Canice stood here. The cathedral has maintained many of its 13thcentury features.
4
Lismore
Overlooking the mighty Munster Blackwater and featuring charming turrets and extensive gardens (which are open to the public), Lismore Castle is a sight to behold. Today belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, it was designed by Joseph Paxton (of Crystal Palace fame) on the ruins of a 12thcentury castle. The town also boasts a fascinating cathedral, built in the 1600s.
5
Visit the Irish National Heritage Park l
Located on the banks of the picturesque River Slaney, the Irish National Heritage Park is the cornerstone of Ireland’s Ancient East. Experience the reality of how ordinary people lived in Ireland as 9,000 years of history is re-created within natural forestry and wet woodlands.
6
Waterford Treasures
Named after the Old Norse vedrafjord (windy harbour is one translation), Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland and is best investigated by exploring five museums in the Viking Triangle: the Medieval Museum, the Bishop’s Palace, the Museum of Time, the Museum of Silver and the early 13th-century Reginald’s Tower, one of only six surviving of 17 towers which lined the city walls.
7
Kilkenny Castle
The impressive hall of this stately regal stronghold of Anglo-Norman rule in Ireland, built by William Marshal and later passed to the Catholic Anglo-Irish Butler family, lent the Marble City its name. It’s difficult to imagine now that it was in disrepair as recently as the early 1970s. Its restoration makes it a must-see destination.
8
Hit the beach I
This region has some of the most accessible beaches in Ireland, from the long sandy stretch of Courtown, beloved by Dubliners, to the Blue Flag beaches at Rosslare or Duncannon, to Dunmore East, Stradbally and Ardmore.
This region has some of the most accessible beaches in Ireland, such as the long sandy stretch of Courtown
9
Have a tipple
Forget the Dublin hype: the provinces are where you get the real Irish pub
experience. Kilkenny’s pubs are particularly renowned, but in reality you’re never far from a fine pint and grand company.
10
Rinn Gaeltacht
The region’s only Irishspeaking area is all that’s left of a Gaeilgeoir community which, 200 years ago, covered County Waterford. A lightly populated area of about 1,000 people, it has some fine bars. Learn some Irish and try out your cúpla focail on the locals. ■
SHOPPING
Shopaholics will love Ireland’s Ancient East for its eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, high-street staples and quirky independents
Ireland’s Ancient East is full of fantastic shopping, whether you explore historic cobbled streets or the shopping meccas dotted across the region. The decadence of Ireland’s Celtic Tiger shopping is back, and the high streets in this region have never offered such a wealth of choice. Don’t be surprised if you return home with much more than you bargained for! Spend all day, every day, pounding the pavements of towns packed full of goodies to buy in Ireland’s Ancient East.
Kilkenny is a byword for fabulous shopping, and it’s hard to beat the joy of
Kilkenny is a byword for fabulous shopping
exploring the city’s medieval laneways for treasures. Start by visiting Goods of Kilkenny on High Street, the almost 100-year-old Kilkenny institution which is your first port of call for footwear, cosmetics, accessories and lingerie. Paul’s Fashion Store is another with years of experience in keeping well-heeled shoppers happy.
The city’s pedestrian area offers a raft of great shops, including the uber-personalised Peaches Boutique, the stylish Mimi Boutique and the wonderfully colourful treasure trove that is Butterslip Shop. On the same street,
you’ll find the family store Lady Lorna Designers Emporium, host to a range of Irish and international designers.
For more high street offerings, you’re spoilt for choice with shopping centres. Market Cross Shopping Centre is in the heart of the city centre and has a long history, beginning with the Original Market Cross that stood on the high street from 1335 to 1771. With more than 30 outlets, including Vero Moda and Penneys, you’ll be here for a while.
MacDonagh Junction, also known as Kilkenny Shopping Centre, is the largest shopping centre in the South East and welcomes more than three million shoppers a year. This is the place for retailers such as TK Maxx, H&M, Next, and Irish traders Carraig Donn and Fields the Jeweller.
Love jewellery? The city is renowned for it, from Lorimat on Patrick Street to Ryan’s and Murphy’s, both on High Street. You’ll find Carl Parker Jewellery further out of town at Castlecomer.
Shopping heaven awaits in the region’s biggest city, Waterford. Hop from Waterford Retail Park and Waterford Shopping Centre in the city’s western suburbs to Ardkeen and Ballinakill shopping centres along Dunmore Road. However, it’s tightly packed Waterford city centre that offers the most atmospheric
shopping experience.
Don’t miss the massive City Square shopping centre, located at the centre of the old city. It’s the fashion and lifestyle centre of the region and features an excellent range of eateries, too. Barronstrand Street is the other end of the central shopping district, with Tommy Hilfiger, Fitzgerald Menswear and outdoor shops. George’s Court shopping centre is across the pedestrian street from Penneys, the Irish version of Primark.
Make sure you pop down John Street to the Apple Market. It’s a real hub for a social post-shopping drink, and there’s variety of bargain and charity shops nearby. And, that’s just the city. Waterford county offers other, less hectic, shopping opportunities. Ardmore boasts lovely pottery and craft shops, while Rinn Gaeltacht offers Irish crystal to rival any in the county.
Shopping in the historic district of Wexford starts down the narrow Selskar Avenue which brings you to the pedestrian Main Street. It’s flanked by atmospheric alleys and lanes to wander down and stumble upon one-off treasures. You’ll find a host of famous retail names in the area, like Fat Face, department store Shaw’s, Diana Donnelly designer clothes, and, in a remarkable Flemish-style building, Boots. l
j Kilkenny High Street
I Shopping in Waterford
Kilkenny Design Centre
Sarah King fashion is on North Main Street and the classy Irish fashion and jewellery shop Carraig Donn is on South Main Street, next to the Book Centre. Martins Jewellers is around the corner on Row Street. In between, you have loads of fashion choices including chic women’s clothing store Vila and Industry for men’s suiting and leisure wear.
To ensure your shopping trip is easy-going on the feet, Carlow offers accessible shopping centres in the heart of town. Start at the Fairgreen Shopping Centre on Barrack Street, which features a great range of Irish and UK high street stores including Next, River Island and Pamela Scott, along with a fantastic range of homeware at Carraig Donn. Relatively New to Waterford and Carlow alike is the Scandinavian flat-pack store JYSK, a more stylish version of Ikea.
As befitting the Marble City, Kilkenny is a treasure trove of finely crafted jewellery and precious pieces including the works of Rudolf Heltzel, a German-Irish master goldsmith. At the Rudolf Heltzel studio gallery, you’re greeted with a friendly smile and contemporary jewellery that’s been lovingly made by hand since the company was founded in 1968. Choose from unique pendants and rare gemstones.
For a huge range of craftspeople and
designers, visit the Kilkenny Design Centre near Kilkenny Castle. If something beautiful can be made by human hand, you’ll find it here. In particular, it’s the place to shop for bespoke ladieswear, pottery, jewellery, candles and fragrances.
Are you a bookworm? Kilkenny has you sorted. There’s the Book Centre on High Street, the Book and Coffee Shop on William Street, and Bargain Books in the Butter Slip. Speaking of which, the arched Butter Slip passageway dates from the early 17th century when it was flanked with butter-sellers on either side. It’s the most fetching of the many alleys dotted around Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile.
If you love all things vintage, head to O’Connell Street and the Vintage Factory to stock up on bags, clothes and accessories from the era you love. For music lovers, John Palmer Music Centre was established in 1988 by the man himself, and he loves to see new faces in the shop. Golden Discs is Ireland’s largest music chain store, and you’ll find a store in City Square shopping centre.
For ethical womenswear, look no further than Bébhínn from Bébhínn McGrath, one of a new trend among Irish fashion designers. The open studio offers clothing made entirely of merino wool and linen. Nearby l
House of Waterford Crystal, Waterford
House of Waterford Crystal offers factory tours where you can witness the ancient art of mould making and glass blowing followed, if you wish, by a three-course afternoon tea with scones, sandwiches and a selection of exquisite desserts.
Waterford has other glassworks, including Heritage Irish Crystal in Bilberry Industrial Estate by the Suir estuary. Kite Design Studios, on Henrietta Street, is like a miniature bespoke shopping centre in itself. Inside is the Irish Handmade Glass Company, along with Sharon Fleming ceramics, Stradbally Jewellery and Anne McDonnellMurphy’s fine printworks.
Arts and crafts hub
Wexford is an exciting arts and crafts hub. If that’s your bag, be sure to pop into The Maker’s House by the harbour, a creative hub exhibiting and selling work by some of the finest designer makers in the county. Expect your eyes to pop over the gorgeous displays of paintings, ceramics, jewellery, sculpture and stained glass.
Lively and prosperous Enniscorthy brims with a tantalising selection of local independent retailers. You’ll love shopping within the olde-worlde charm of this Irish country market town. Start on Market Square
with visits to Mahady Breen for shoes, Breda’s Boutique for new outfits and Walter Bourke & Son for jewellery.
Head to Main Street and Put A Bow On It among numerous thriving independent boutiques. Glamour Boutique is where you’ll find the latest fashion and Sofia’s Choice offers children’s clothes as well.
For foodies, County Wexford is famous for the farmers’ markets that meet once a week in its four main towns of New Ross, Enniscorthy, Gorey, and Wexford.
Graignamanagh is full of traditional shopping treats to try and resist. Make a beeline for Cushendale Woollen Mills for Irish fleece to swath yourself or your furniture in. The Irish treasure of Duiske Glass is where you’ll find grapevine cut wine glasses and a bespoke engraving service for your gifts. While you’re there, visit the pretty village of St Mullins to dine by the river at Mullicháin Café. You’ll sample the best of locally sourced, Irish cuisine before heading back to the shops.
Whether you can’t wait to stuff your bags full of high street brands or quirky artworks, Ireland’s Ancient East is a shopper’s dream. Shop till you drop in Kilkenny and Waterford, then set off on a treasure hunt around the region’s lovely villages for local crafts you won’t find anywhere else in the world. ■
EATING OUT
Ireland’s Ancient East is a foodie’s paradise with a host of fantastic restaurants, cafés and pubs – so make sure you bring a healthy appetite
Did someone say award-winning restaurants? That’s what you’ll find in Ireland’s Ancient East, with everything from Michelin-star meals to succulent seafood by the water. Many of your favourite dishes from around the globe feature on menus too, along with homemade cakes in quaint countryside cafés. It’s enough to make anyone’s mouth water just thinking about it!
Kilkenny was voted Foodie
Destination of the Year in 2018, so it’s the place to start your gourmet food adventure. To embrace the long French tradition which has reigned in Kilkenny City since the arrival of the Normans, take a table at Campagne at the Arches in Gashouse Lane. Head Chef Garrett Byrne uses only the finest Irish produce, earning the restaurant a Michelin star every year since 2014. The restaurant is known for
its vibrant interior, replete with contemporary art, comfortable furniture and leafy oak panelling. Lady Helen at the Mount Juliet Estate near Thomastown is another Michelin-star restaurant. It gained its first star in 2013 and the location overlooking the River Nore is as superb as the food. Seasonally chosen ingredients provide the foundation for a variety of tasting menus inspired by the traditional
La Côte Seafood Restaurant, Wexford
flavours and components of Irish cuisine.
Waterford vies with Kilkenny in the food stakes. To the west of the Gentle County is the stunning Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, which earned a Michelin star in 2020. The sumptuous cuisine combines local and garden ingredients with unique presentations. Furthermore, the atmosphere somehow manages to be both rarefied and friendly. Aldridge Lodge in Duncannon has been included on the Michelin list of Bib Gourmands, flying the flag for culinary excellence in the Model County.
Restaurants laden with awards dot Ireland’s Ancient East. The brilliant Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse is one in Kilkenny, with wood-smoked ribs, mouthwatering wings and more than one hundred whiskeys to choose from. If you’re in the Hook Head area, Carlow town has a solid selection of eateries. The Plum Tree Bistro was awarded Carlow’s Best Hotel Restaurant by the Restaurant Association of Ireland.
Innovative dishes
In Wexford, La Côte in Custom House Quay is a previous winner of Irish Seafood Restaurant of the Year and serves up tasty dishes like Curry Spiced Monkfish. Oyster Lane Restaurant at the Talbot Hotel offers a luxurious experience with private dining options – and a black pudding and bacon salad among some of the more innovative dishes.
Dine at the Terrace Restaurant overlooking the lovely courtyard of Clayton Whites Hotel. You’ll need to book a table well in advance, but it’s worth it for a romantic night out. For a real touch of class that’s under the radar of many itineraries, the Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle boasts contemporary Irish fine dining with an elegance that only a centuriesold castle brings. Among its many accolades are 2 AA Rosettes and a place on McKenna’s 100 Best Restaurants 2019.
You’ll find Ristorante Rinuccini along the restaurant-lined parade in Kilkenny. It was named after
Giovanni Battista Rinuccini, a Florentine noble who lived in the Marble City in the mid-17th century. The multi award-winning Italian fine dining restaurant offers a suburb wine selection to go with a range of menus. Sample scrumptious dishes like Melanzane alla Parmigiana with Pannacotta della Casa for dessert.
Laid back atmosphere
The Paris Texas Bar in Kilkenny is laden with awards
In Waterford city, Momo should be your first port of call. Channeling their mission to use as much local produce as possible, expect some truly decadent slow cooked meat dishes and mouthwatering fish and seafood, all served in a gently lit and laid back atmosphere. Bodega Restaurant & Bar showcases a tantalising mix of international cuisine and creative cocktails. Order Indian spiced chicken wings or monkfish scampi. Feel like a quick trip to New York? Burzza Restaurant provides the vibe and the hamburgers to go with it.
The seafood practically launches onto your plate and salad is plucked straight from restaurant gardens in Ireland’s Ancient East. With a growing culinary reputation, some of Dungarvan’s best restaurants cluster around the quays area. The Tannery Restaurant, home of chefpatron Paul Flynn, is a destination eatery that serves up exquisitely present dishes like crab creme brulee. It’s also a cookery school, l
Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse, Kilkenny
Combining traditional and contemporary styles and taking inspiration from a variety of international cuisines, One Hundred Degrees is a culmination of the ideas, influences and connections Praba Sankaran has gathered over his 25 years in the industry.
Our love of collaboration with local producers in County Wexford & Ireland offers an ever-evolving menu, accompanied by a living wine list. Using seasonal ingredients, every aspect of your meal is made completely by us in-house. This, together with warm and genuine service, offers you a remarkable dining experience.
Celebrate both the spontaneous and the anticipated.
100 Main Street Gorey, Co. Wexford, Y25 R259 For Reservations and Queries: ● Online at www.onehundreddegrees.ie ● Phone 053 94 84 121 ● ● Email 100degreesreservations@gmail.com ● ● Instagram @100degreesrestaurant ●
so you might pick up a few tips to impress your dinner guests at home.
For surf and turf, 360 Cookhouse tempts your taste buds and also provides delicious vegetarian and gluten-free options. Overlooking Dungarvan’s busy harbour, The Moorings offers a nautical theme to go with your seafood platter. Tramore is a picturesque seaside resort that’s home to Ireland’s oldest surf club and the Beach House restaurant to fuel you up to catch waves.
For a taste of fine seafood in a friendly atmosphere, head to Dunmore East across the water from Hook Head where you will find the Strand Inn seafood restaurant, a much-loved local gem with an everchanging menu of fresh seafood and an extensive wine list. Maud’s Ice Cream shop next door isn’t half bad, either. Out in the lush coastal countryside, the Ferrycarrig Hotel offers casual dining in its Dry Dock Bar, and a relaxed bistro feel in the Reeds Restaurant. And, there’s
Enjoy a relaxed bistro feel in the Reeds Restaurant
always afternoon tea featuring local produce.
Most menus in Ireland’s Ancient East make the best use of the region’s abundant produce. Notable mentions include Nóinín, a cosy and casual cafe in the shadow of the famous Kilkenny Castle on John’s Bridge Street. Here sisters Sinéad and Maeve Moclair serve a simple lunch and dinner menu built around what is in season and
available with dishes such as slow cooked pork tacos, spiced lamb flatbreads and deliciously warming Massaman curry.
The magnificent Rive Gauche overlooks the small crossroads at the heart of the Marble City. They offer a great selection of local produce with bags of character to boot. Around the corner, Zuni opened almost 20 years ago and continues to enthral visitors and locals alike with a menu of modern Irish cuisine. Tuck into local favourites like chargrilled Irish sirloin and mulled wine poached pear.
On the Medieval Mile, Foodworks Bistro offers a casual dining experience with a farm-tofork focus. The owners keep pigs and grow their own salad leaves for your eating enjoyment.
Waterford is home to GROW HQ, an exciting eating experience with an ethos of food being grown, served and eaten on the same site. On a sunny day, eat outside on l
Reeds Restaurant at Ferrycarrig Hotel, Wexford
the terrace overlooking a kitchen garden that bursts with organic produce. Head grower Richard Mee takes guests on a stroll to learn about the importance of sustainability. Afterwards, congratulate yourself on being so healthy!
A sort of Wexford version of Dublin’s Fallon & Byrne, Greenacres on Selskar is a combination of food hall and restaurant. There’s smoked rabbit and wild pigeon on the menu, among produce sourced from local suppliers. While a few minutes drive from Rosslare Harbour, The Lobster Pot serves outstanding seafood chowder, delicious fresh crab, wild Irish smoked salmon and lobster from the sea tank in a traditional Irish pub setting.
Of course, there’s some excellent coffee, tea and cake to try with a dash of charming decor across the region. Mocha’s Vintage Tearooms on Kilkenny’s Gas House Lane is one such place. Pop in and they’ll grind your coffee to order
and feed you sweet treats crafted mainly with organic ingredients. For scrumptious sandwiches and other picnic-packable goodies, the Gourmet Store has you covered with an enticing deli bar.
Time for a pastry or a good brunch? At Arán Bakery & Bistro, they grind local heritage flours in house then stone bake their sourdough loaves, which you can sample as part of their all-day brunch, a choice of sourdough toppers – ‘Not-so-Turkish Eggs’ and ‘No-Vocada Toast’ – a full Irish breakfast or kimchi rice bowl, all complemented by the jars of pickles and ferments on the counter. Pick up pastries, sourdough and coffee from their takeaway across the street.
The Fig Tree Restaurant serves your cappuccino with a full Irish breakfast and home-made brown bread. Then, there’s all-day brunch at the Marble City Bar and Tea Rooms, complete with breakfast burritos and toasted
sausage sandwiches.
If you fancy a pitstop while cycling the Waterford Greenway, Coach House Coffee in Kilmacthomas is a bright and breezy favourite among locals and cyclists. Stone walls and a vintage look decorate the former Famine workhouse on the banks of the Mahon river.
Coffee culture is alive and well in the lanes of Wexford, with D’Lush Cafe in the Arts Centre and Cappuccino’s on Main Street. Both options will put a spring in your step and a smile on your face with chocolate brownies and granola pots.
From seafood to farm-toform cuisine and international taste sensations, you get the best of all foodie worlds in Ireland’s Ancient East. Better yet, you can dress up, dress down or dine straight from your walk at a huge array of restaurants to suit every occasion and even the fussiest of taste buds. ■
HQ, Waterford
Only here for the weekend? Fear not! Here are some ideas for a memorable short break
WEEKENDER
DAY ONE
Start your journey through the cities, towns and tillage fields of the sunny and historic East. Kick things off in Kilkenny (Cill Chainnigh, or the Church of Canice) – and pop into the magnificent Gothic St Canice’s Cathedral itself, climbing the ninth-century Round Tower for a panorama of the Marble City itself from Irishtown. Follow up with dinner at Campagne, the city’s Michelin-starred restaurant, a 10-minute walk across the River Nore.
After brunch in the Fig Tree at the heart of the city’s Medieval Mile, wander up to Kilkenny Castle for a tour, before visiting the National Design & Craft Gallery before lunch at Rive Gauche.
Historic Waterford
It’s time to visit the region’s other historic city, Waterford. Known as Ireland’s oldest, it has a rich Viking and Norman heritage, and is around an hour’s drive from Kilkenny. If you’ve time, take a detour via the trim, pretty villages of Bennettsbridge and Thomastown, and the sumptuous vistas of Mount Juliet.
Grab some lunch at McLeary’s Restaurant on Parade Quay, before wandering around the Viking Triangle, savouring the riches of the Medieval Museum and the Bishop’s Palace. For a late afternoon snack, grab some “blaa” – a Waterford delicacy for centuries – or allow your passenger a cheeky drink at Bodega Restaurant & Bar.
Take the car ferry across from Passage East to Ballyhack, and admire the profusion of castles and stately homes on Hook Peninsula,
from the disused Norman stronghold of Ballyhack Castle to Dunbrody Abbey and Tintern Abbey, before settling down for dinner at the renowned Aldridge Lodge in the coastal village of Duncannon, taking an after-dinner stroll around its Norman bastion. From here, Hook Lighthouse – the oldest such building still operational – is a short drive, and is a great spot to take in the sunset. Ponder the origin of the phrase “by Hook or Crooke (village)” while tucking into simple heart-warming
food like smoked salmon on brown bread or homemade chowder at the cafe in the former Principal Keepers cottage.
Bannow Bay
Tintern Abbey is just over half an hour’s drive to Wexford town, and passes through Wellington Bridge, at the head of Bannow Bay, where Richard de Clare, the Norman lord nicknamed Strongbow, came ashore at the head of the first organised British invasion of Ireland.
DAY TWO
Devote your second day to the historic cultural hub of Wexford, the cornerstone of the region. Explore its lanes, and café-strewn alleyways via the town’s heritage trail, starting at Selskar Abbey, rumoured to be where Henry II did penance for the murder of Thomas Beckett.
Green Acres in Selskar is a food and wine emporium. After a visit to Curracloe Beach (the scene for the
famous opening of Saving Private Ryan) or the nearby fascinating Irish National Heritage Park at Ferrycarrig, return to the town for a seafood dinner at La Côte on Custom House Quay, followed by a show at the National Opera House and a craft beer at lively brewpub, Simon Lambert & Sons. ■
L Hook Lighthouse — the oldest operational lighthouse in Ireland.
Culture vultures assemble! This region offers the perfect mix of galleries, museums, exhibitions and festivals
Culture Club
Since the days of the druids, Ireland’s Ancient East has been alive with artistic inspiration. Today, the region continues to resonate with the echoes of modern-day artisans and performers ranging from sopranos to comedians. With a stellar schedule of annual festivals, you’ll likely run into a celebration of arts and culture no matter when you visit.
Not one, but two opera festivals take place in this spectacular corner of Ireland each year. Wexford town has long been the spiritual home of opera, as the host of the National
Opera House, but leafy Lismore in west Waterford has its own opera scene. The Blackwater Valley Opera Festival takes its name from the Munster Blackwater, which doglegs through the county. You’ll watch evocative performances from talented artists on the backdrop of Lismore Castle and other fabulous venues.
Founded in 1951 and set against the picturesque backdrop of the ancient Viking town, Wexford Festival Opera has grown into one of the globe’s leading opera festivals. Novelist and founder of
Gramophone magazine Compton Mackenzie birthed the idea and it made a name for itself by introducing little-known works and forgotten masterpieces. Along with the main performances, pop-up events include drama and dance shows around Wexford.
For most Irish people, culture revolves around ‘craic’ in all its forms. Roughly corresponding to a raucous, sociable version of hygge, craic covers everything from barroom repartee to the most moving exploration of the human condition – as long as there’s humour.
Wexford Festival Opera
Kilkenny Cat Laughs Festival delivers it in spades.
Here, comedians come into their own while mixing with the locals between gigs. The festival’s headliners are generally based at the Hub at Cillín Hill, with other events taking place in venues across the city.
The Kilkenomics Festival manages the unlikely feat of mixing comedy with mathematics and finance, bringing together some of the world’s most astute commentators with the finest wit in the land. The festival even features its own currency – the marble – and brings out the important issues with candour.
Time your trip with the Alternative Kilkenny Arts Fringe Festival to see the best of local arts. It’s a collaboration of people living in the region to recite, perform and exhibit their work alongside national and international artists. You’ll see incredible pieces scattered across the city, including on the Mayor’s Walk.
Christmas markets
Yulefest Kilkenny takes place throughout December and January, with ice-skating, an atmospheric carousel and traditional Christmas markets. You can even visit the grave of the historical inspiration for Santa Claus, Saint Nicholas, in Jerpoint Park in Thomastown.
Wexford’s 15-day Fringe Festival features around 300 events and usually runs parallel to the Wexford Opera Festival. In terms of a cultural feast, there’s not much you won’t see here, from visual art to dance and music. It incorporates a Spiegeltent Festival featuring Ireland’s most exciting performers in the fields of music, comedy, burlesque, theatre and film. Don’t miss the kick off with Fireworks on the Quay.
Capitalising on Kilkenny’s burgeoning food scene, Savour Kilkenny Food Festival is one of Ireland’s leading events for foodies and budding chefs. It celebrates the produce of the surrounding pastureland, including the internationally renowned dairy and meat sectors.
Wexford Festival Opera has grown into one of the globe’s leading opera festivals
pushing the boundaries across a variety of disciplines. Visit Carlow to explore VISUAL, the largest gallery space in Ireland. Along with art exhibitions, the centre hosts theatre and music shows.
You’re never far from a gallery in Waterford. The Garter Lane Arts Centre boasts two exhibition spaces housed in a former Quaker meeting house. Here, you’ll admire a year-round programme of locally produced visual art. Alternatively, GOMA Gallery of Modern Art is dedicated to innovation and collaboration, with workshops joining cutting-edge exhibitions.
Tens of thousands of visitors flock here over the October bank holiday weekend to sample scrumptious bites from artisan food stalls. You’ll also learn from the masters via demonstrations from leading Irish and international chefs and celebrities.
Waterford Harvest Festival
But wait, that’s not all in the category of tempting your taste buds! Waterford Harvest Festival takes place in early September to highlight the innovative food scene. Restaurants, bars and bistros showcase their best creations, while arts and cultural hotspots feature pop-up events.
You’ll always find your fix of theatre and art across Ireland’s Ancient East, a region that brims with local artistic talent. Kilkenny’s love of arts and culture reaches a fever pitch when the Kilkenny Arts Festival takes over the city’s exquisite architectural landmarks.
For traditional art galleries in the Marble City, head to the sophisticated Butler Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. Awe-inspiring collections include everything from painting and drawing to photography and media works.
The National Design and Craft Gallery is the only one of its kind in the country, featuring the best in Irish and European contemporary applied arts. Revolving exhibitions join workshops and education programmes aimed at inspiring and
Ireland’s Ancient East is a hub for arts and crafts of all levels, with the cream of Ireland’s designers and artists offering their creations across the region. In the north of Kilkenny, Castlecomer Craft Yard is based in the stables and barn at the former Wandesforde family estate. The community of fine artists and craft makers display stunning jewellery, paintings, interior designs and ceramics.
Artisans and creative makers like Duiske Glass, Nicholas Mosse, Jerpoint Glass and Rudolf Heltzel are all part of the Made in Kilkenny trail, which puts the best of the county’s basket-weaving, candlemaking, textiles, stonework, pottery and glassworks on show at locations across the county.
Wexford, meanwhile, is also home to a slew of craft galleries, including the Blue Egg Gallery for works in clay, textiles, metal and glass. At the Woodturning Studio, you’ll see the works of Robert O’Connor, regarded among the finest woodturners in Ireland. This is your chance to buy unique Irish gifts and home accessories you won’t find anywhere else.
If you’re a culture vulture, you’ll find it hard to leave Ireland’s Ancient East. You’ll likely see talented musicians at local pubs, let alone across the region’s theatres and arts centres. Speaking of which, take your pick of galleries featuring innovative arts and crafts to admire. Better yet, it’s easy to take an artistic piece of this incredible corner of Ireland home with you. ■
The night-time economy in this region is thriving, packed with clubs, pubs, bars and live music venues
After dark
Welcome to a region that boasts some of the liveliest nightlife in Ireland. Here, socialising isn’t just a weekend thing, but something that’s intrinsic to the community. From the swankiest cocktail bars to whiskey joints and country pubs, Ireland’s Ancient East always heats up once the sun goes down.
Night owls who love to pub and bar hop into the wee hours are spoilt for choice across Ireland’s Ancient East. However, don’t worry if you prefer a quiet cocktail in elegant surroundings – there’s plenty for you, too.
Kilkenny offers a large dose of everything fun for everyone after dark. Located in the former Bank of Ireland building, Rive Gauche sparkles in the Irish evening from the outside. Inside, you’re transported to another, older world entirely. It’s a cross between the Moulin Rouge and a New Orleans speakeasy. Admire wonderfully ornate columns and chandeliers before picking a comfortable seat by the roaring fire.
Down the hill on Rose Inn Street, there’s Grapevine Wine and Tapas Bar with another atmospheric
interior to soak up with your wine and marinated olives. The awardwinning Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse is the place to savour wood-smoked ribs with a choice of around one hundred whiskeys, in an environment inspired by The New Orleans French Quarter.
Looking for up-tempo music? Head to the Pumphouse Bar after a show at the Watergate Theatre across the road. The split-level ground floor boasts two bars and live music is a given throughout the week. For drinks with twinkling
Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse, Kilkenny
city and castle views, settle in at the River Court Hotel Riverview Bar. Then, hit nearby Matt the Millers Bar for live Irish music and some cracking DJs.
The Dylan Whiskey Bar features an American Western theme, for something a little different in Ireland. Raid the Whiskey Library that contains nearly 200 of the finest whiskies, along with premium gins to sip in private snugs by the open turf fire. If you prefer cocktails, Biddy Early’s has been mixing your favourites since 1996 and you’ll savour them in the company of live bands and DJ sets.
On a warm evening, make a beeline for The Apple Market triangle as the most atmospheric spot to socialise in Waterford. With wooden furniture, high ceilings and a host of quiet corners, Geoff’s Cafe Bar is the centre of the Apple Market and a fantastic place to start. Then, head to the Revolution for craft beer, whiskey or gin in the company of video screens and interesting memorabilia.
Innovative cocktails
Waterford’s pedestrian areas make the city centre easy to navigate for revellers. Tucked away on Bank Lane directly across from Waterford’s iconic Theatre Royal, Itty Bitty’s might channel a traditional pub vibe but it’s best known for its innovative cocktails. While behind Reginald’s Tower, you will find The Reg, one of the town’s most popular pubs with six bars, a restaurant, a nightclub and a rooftop terrace all under one roof.
Haven’t been to the Land Down Under? Enjoy all things Australian at the Uluru and Outback Bar on Dunmore Road. Have ‘a bit of tucker’ before throwing back a beer with the footy on the big screen. At Jack Meade’s Bar and Beer Garden, you’ll socialise in a building that dates back to 1705 and rests beneath the Old Stone Bridge in Halfway House.
Carlow’s status as a college town guarantees a lively evening most nights of the week. Favourites include the Dinn Rí Bar, with live bands each Saturday and sports on the big screens. Another top spot
Night owls who love to bar hoppers are spoilt for choice here
all week long and Rafter Dempsey’s is the place for Guinness and great entertainment. Stroll down the High Street-Parliament Street thoroughfare for more pub action.
for live music, O’Loughlins rocks Tullow Street with DJs and local musicians. To really let your hair down though, spend the night at The Foundry. The self-proclaimed ‘best nightclub in Ireland’ features all the state-of-the-art lights, DJ tunes and dancefloor moves you could ask for.
Ireland’s Ancient East offers a pub to suit every mood. If you’re looking to end a day of culture and culinary delights with a pint, Wexford town is the place to be. Cornmarket and Monck Street are your destinations of choice in town. The surrounding area has a host of great pubs to keep you hopping all night. The Mocking Monck features live music on Saturday nights, as does Maggie May’s.
If you’re visiting the seaside resort of Rosslare, Meyler’s Millhouse Bar is a family-friendly spot after dark with a pool table, darts and a beer garden.
Pub-hopping around Enniscorthy brings you to The Bailey Bar & Eatery where you’ll sample great Irish food with creative cocktails. For more, wander around Market Square and the surrounding streets.
On the edge of New Ross, Mannion’s Pub is a bright, traditional Irish pub, and a perfect way to end a day exploring Hook Head peninsula. Another great choice is Strand Tavern in Duncannon, with amazing sea views to go with seafood dishes and craft beer.
When you hop around Kilkenny’s pubs, you’ll likely learn about the sport of hurling from the locals. Head to Henderson’s, Syd Harkin’s and An Poc Fada to find out. Lanigan’s Bar belts out live music
Kyteler’s Inn was originally built by notorious local character Dame Alice Kyteler in 1324. Today, you’ll enjoy two floors of live Irish music and intriguing memorabilia. For arguably the best craft beers in the city, stroll down Parliament Street to O’Hara’s Brewery Corner. With its own IPA, it continues a thousand-year tradition of ale brewing in the region.
More beer awaits at Sullivan’s Tap Room, which has outdoor seating, a wonderful open-plan layout and its own brewer. A stretch of casual pubs lines John Street, including the World’s End and Kilkenny House O’Gorman’s for live music sessions. When you want to join the party after the pub, the Kilford Arms is home to O’Faolain’s Bar and Langtons Hotel Kilkenny gets the party started with DJs on the weekends.
Standing astride the tidal Colligan River, Dungarvan is a picturesque town in which to grab a pint or two. It even has its own brewery, the Dungarvan Brewing Company. Several excellent pubs include the Anchor Bar, the Enterprise Bar and Lady Belle. It’s easy to stumble between venues around Grattan Square. The Local is a firm favourite located in a former electrical shop that displayed bottled beer and spirits to prove to the public it was also a licenced premise.
For some of the best Irish music sessions the Marine Bar is a must, with live folk music on the weekends. In Waterford town, The Hub is a traditional Irish pub with live music most nights of the week and nonstop sports on the big screens. You’ll find that proper old school pub vibe at Henry Downes, and Thomas Maher Bar is the home of Whiskey Mac and a famous house whiskey.
End your days with Guinness and sports at the local pub or dance the night away with DJs and cocktails. From buzzing Kilkenny to coastal Duncannon, you’re never far from a memorable night out in Ireland’s Ancient East. ■
Although Ireland’s Ancient East has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure
Time to explore
This quartet of counties straddle some of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Europe. Just north of Wexford is the awe-inspiring beauty of the Wicklow Mountains, and the pretty towns and gardens that have named Wicklow the Garden County.
Visit the Palladian majesty of Powerscourt Hotel and Gardens near charming Enniskerry village – or, if you want the wilds, head into the hills and visit the ancient Glendalough, founded by St Kevin (look up the immortal poem Seamus Heaney wrote about him).
Magnificent castle
You’re also just a quick drive away from Dublin, with its ever-varied nightlife, coffee and tech culture, magnificent castle, twin cathedrals, impressive zoo, and cultural riches that include Trinity College, Chester Beatty, and Ireland’s finest galleries. If you’d like to continue your exploration of Ireland’s East, meanwhile, use the M50 to head to Meath, home to Newgrange and the Brú na Bóinne network of megalithic passage tombs.
You’ve also got Clonmacnoise, Durrow, and Kildare monasteries, plus sundry other stately homes and castles – memories of a time when Leinster was the beachhead for successive British monarchs’ control of Ireland.
Then there’s the small matter, in the Southwest, of Cork and Kerry – the two most popular tourist destinations in Ireland after Dublin. Cork city itself is just over an hour’s drive from Dungarvan in Waterford. Built on a many-channelled delta inside one of the world’s largest natural harbours, ‘rebel Cork’ has long had an independent streak and is again on the up, with a construction boom reshaping the
city and a revitalised arts scene.
Visit Fota Wildlife Park on Cork Harbour (via train is best), shop til you drop on Patrick Street and Opera Lane or grab a coffee in the famous English Market and absorb the city’s relaxed vibe.
West of Cork city, there is beauty aplenty all along the Lee Valley, from the sprawling Ballincollig Regional Park, in which gunpowder was produced for the Napoleonic Wars, to the flooded sylvan graveyard of the Gearagh, and the remote hillsides of the Gaeltacht regions. Among the Cork and Kerry mountains lies a real treat: Gougane Barra, an island monastery in the middle of a lake surrounded by steep, forested hillsides.
Cork is best savoured on the coast, with dozens of stunning beaches stretching from Garryvoe near Bally-cotton in East Cork to Garrettstown and Inchydoney in the west of Cork. Cork’s coastal towns are renowned for their beauty not least Ireland’s culinary capital Kinsale, alternative Clonakilty, or the historic port of Bantry, gateway to the Beara peninsula.
Further west again is Kerry, home to the Lakes of Killarney, where you’ll find swimming deer, ruined churches on wooded islands, the famous Ladies View (beloved of Queen Victoria), and the highest mountains in Ireland: the MacGillycuddy Reeks.
While most tour coaches follow the Ring of Kerry, locals will often head to another Gaeltacht on the Dingle peninsula, once home to Fungie the dolphin, Inch Beach, Mount Brandon and beautiful, remote coastal communities. From lively Dublin to the scenic south west, heart-warming Ireland is on your doorstep. ■
Gougane Barra National Park, County Cork
PHOTO-FINISH
Heritage for Life
Estate, Museum
The National Famine Museum | Strokestown Park, Roscommon
Johnstown Castle, Estate Museum & Gardens, Wexford
Fota House, Arboretum & Gardens, Cork