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Tintagel Castle and Castle Cove IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM


01841 541413


Appleton’s at the Vineyard is a new restaurant, set up in March 2016 by Appleton, APPLETON’S ATAndy THE VINEYARD within Trevibban new Mill vineyard and orchards, near Padstow, in Cornwall.



Published by Kingfisher Media Ltd


PUBLISHER’S NOTE: This publication, its title and content, is wholly owned by and the copyright of Kingfisher Media Ltd. It is entirely independent and does not endorse, and is not supported or endorsed by, any official or private body or organisation. Reproduction in whole or in part by any means without written permission from the publisher is strictly forbidden. The publisher accepts no responsibility for errors, omissions or the consequences thereof. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for the views expressed by contributors, or for the accuracy of claims made by advertisements appearing in this publication. KVGWTC-72-0117-BB

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01841 541413 Appleton’s at the vineyard Trevibban Mill Vineyard and Orchards, Dark Lane, Near Padstow, PL27 7SE

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EMS 531994




CONTENTS WELCOME..................................................................09 Cornwall is a county like no other!

HISTORY AND HERITAGE...................................10 From English Heritage castles to World Heritage mining sites, Cornwall’s history is emblazoned across its diverse landscapes.

DAYS OUT................................................................... 14





Whatever the time of year, and whatever the weather, there’s always plenty to do here.

10 THINGS YOU MUST DO................................. 26


There are loads of things to do here – but make sure you don’t miss these.

EATING OUT.............................................................. 28 Whether you tuck into seafood flipped from rod to pan, or ice cream churned from cow to cone, seaside living has never tasted better.

48 HOURS IN CORNWALL................................ 36 You can pack a lot into a couple of days – try this itinerary to make the most of it.



COME AND SEE WHAT’S BEEN BREWING AT THE HOME OF CORNWALL’S FAVOURITE BEERS & PUBS For more information please contact: 01726 66022 or St Austell Brewery Co. Ltd., 63 Trevarthian Rd, St Austell, Cornwall PL25 4BY

m i r r i

a m e r contemporary jewellery

Working in gold, silver and a variety of precious gemstones, Mirri Damer’s jewellery is clearly inspired by the Cornish coastline that surrounds her. Mirri’s designs, which are handmade in her Falmouth shop, are celebrated and coveted for their timeless style and low-key, luxury look. | 01326 619817 | 8 High Street, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 2AB 6 |




SHOPPING.................................................................. 38 Fill your basket with artisan goods inspired by the coastal lifestyle.

ARTS AND CULTURE............................................46 Immerse yourself in a county that’s crammed with art and culture from the coast to the countryside.

10 REASONS TO LOVE THIS REGION..........50 There are dozens of reasons to love it here – check out a few of our favourites.

NIGHTLIFE.................................................................. 52 From its swanky cocktail bars to full-throttle festivals, Cornwall knows how to throw an après beach party.

SPORT.......................................................................... 58


An immense and sporting playground, Cornwall boasts diverse terrain to try all sorts of activities from surfing to cycling.

TRAVEL........................................................................ 62 Getting to, and around, this region couldn’t be easier.

FURTHER AFIELD.................................................. 66


Although you’ll never run out of things to do here, it’s also a great base for exploring the surrounding region.

PROPERTY................................................................. 68 The allure of Cornwall will have you begging for more – which is why more people are relocating and buying second homes here.

BUSINESS................................................................... 70



Cornwall is a county which increasingly works for everyone.



If the worst happens, I know that Dogs Trust will care for him.

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race yourself for beach life, beguiling landscapes, gastronomic delights and worldfamous cultural hotspots. Cornwall has shaken off its chintzy, bucket-and-spade reputation and replaced it with stylish coastal living. Beyond Caribbeanwhite sands await Michelin-starred eateries, World Heritage landscapes, beautiful biking trails and a smorgasbord of water sports. So, don a wetsuit and hit the surf, lace up your walking boots to trace the rise and fall of the coast path, or soak up gob-smacking scenery from a swanky seaside bar. No longer reliant on the weather to flaunt its charm, Cornwall boasts an array of attractions for all seasons: Marvel at mega stars like the Eden Project, fall in love with picturesque fishing villages and get under the skin of the Cornish culture through art, literature and legend. q






From English Heritage castles to World Heritage mining sites, Cornwall’s history is emblazoned across its diverse landscapes

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long with the Isles of Scilly, West Cornwall is thought to be home to the highest density of prehistoric sites in the UK, and you don’t have to tramp far off the beaten track to come across quoits, standing stones and ancient villages. Stroll inland from Lamorna Cove to the Neolithic stone circle of the Merry Maidens, or strike out across wild moorland above Mounts Bay to discover the remains of Chysauster Ancient Village – one of the finest examples of


an Iron Age settlement in the country. One of the most dramatic landmarks spanning Cornwall’s history is Tintagel Castle. It’s long been a crowd puller for its reputation as the place of King Arthur’s magical conception, yet once you cross the footbridge to the sea-lashed ruins you will soon discover that, in fact, this was a prosperous Dark Age settlement and trading port, after which the Earl of Cornwall built his 13th century fortress here. Whether or not you believe Arthurian legend, nothing can detract from the mystique of the ruins and the

eerie Merlin’s Cave hewn through the neck of the island on which they stand. Another English Heritage site that brings history to life is Pendennis Castle, built by Henry VIII to protect the anchorage of the Carrick Roads and the world’s third deepest natural harbour. Perched atop Pendennis Point, this mighty gun fortress was one of the last royalist strongholds to fall in the Civil War. Step inside and discover interactive exhibits, or stand in the bastions to clap eyes on breathtaking sea views and the smaller St Mawes Castle, standing >> p12

The most famous location to tee up legend and history is the enchanting fortress of St Michael’s Mount, an important pilgrimage destination where a 12th century church was built

guard on the other side of the River Fal. When Pendennis Castle was built in the 16th century, Falmouth was little more than a fishing village. However, its strategic location and the development of the deep-water harbour led to the town’s transformation into one of the most important packet ship ports in the UK. Visit the National Maritime Museum to delve into the town’s rich seafaring history, and discover more about the booming maritime scene that still underpins every aspect of Falmouth’s cultural identity. From the tall ships moored in Charlestown’s historic harbour to the shipwrecks littering the treacherous rocks off the Lizard Peninsula and Land’s End, Cornwall’s connection to sailing and smuggling is evident in every nook and cranny of its corrugated coastline. Walk from Sennen to Land’s End and you can still see the rusty hull of the RMS Mülheim that foundered here in 2003. Discover fascinating artefacts from over 150 foundered ships at the Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre, where you can also learn about the tin, copper and china clay mining history that has given much of Cornwall’s landscape World Heritage status.


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Paddle past the china clay docks and learn all about the china clay industry on a kayaking expedition with Encounter Cornwall, or witness the iconic cliff-top engine houses on a coastal walk from Chapel Porth to St Agnes. In West Penwith you can discover the remains of a once-thriving mining community, witness the sea-lashed engine house at Botallack mine and don a miner’s hat to go underground at Geevor Mine. The National Trust is now at the helm of many historical estates countywide, such as Lanhydrock’s grand Victorian manor house with its 17th century gallery, and the Elizabethan Trerice near Newquay, where you can play Kayles (Cornish skittles) and Slapcock (the original badminton). The most famous location to tee up legend and history is the enchanting fortress of St Michael’s Mount, an important pilgrimage destination where a 12th century church was built by the Benedictine community of Mont St Michel in France. ❑

Take our unique visitor guides with you on the move today

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LET’S GO THERE! Whatever the time of year, and whatever the weather, there’s always plenty to do here



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o longer just famous for bucket-and-spade days, Cornwall is crammed with great things to do from its corrugated coastline and sub-tropical landscapes to its vibrant towns and unique indoor attractions. Don a wetsuit and hit the surf, take a spin around the art galleries, gen up on the region’s maritime history or explore Poldark country on horseback. While Cornwall has a lot more to brag about than its coastline, being home to some of the best beaches in Britain, consistent surf and almost 300 miles of stunning coast path, it’s no wonder that the seaside is a huge part of its pulling power. Step foot on the white-sands of Porthcurno, witness immense rock stacks at Bedruthan Steps and go wild swimming in the tidal pool at Porthtowan. Surfing is at the heart of beach culture, so there’s no shortage of surfing outlets offering kit hire and expert tuition on almost every beach


between Sennen and Bude. However, there are plenty of other water sports to try: find your balance for stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and SUP yoga on the calmer waters of Falmouth’s Gyllyngvase beach, brace yourself for a coasteering adventure from Port Quin, or hire a motorboat from Mylor and explore the tidal creeks of the Carrick Roads. Lizard Adventure runs sea-kayaking expeditions around the remote and rugged Lizard Peninsula, where you can come face-to-face with wildlife from seabirds to seals. And this southern limb of the country is an amazing location for landlubbers to explore, too. Kynance Cove is one of the jewels in the region’s heavy crown of beaches, Roskilly’s organic farm serves up over 30 flavours of lip-smacking ice cream made from its Jersey cows, while Ann’s Pasty shop serves arguably the finest Cornish pasties in Cornwall. A short stroll from the pasty shop you can stand on the southerly tip of Britain and visit the >> p16



<< p14 iconic Lizard Lighthouse, where you can track passing ships, sound the foghorn and climb the tower. One of the most visited destinations in Cornwall is the most westerly tip of the UK – Land’s End. It’s at this point that the mainland peters out into 3,000 miles of ocean rolling all the way to America. If you want to avoid the camera-wielding crowds and don’t care for the theme park attractions that have cropped up at Land’s End, head for nearby Cape Cornwall instead. Here you can climb to the landmark chimney atop a rocky peak and lap up all the mesmerising scenery all alone – or at the very most with a few others and the swirl of seabirds that flock from the offshore colonies on Brison Rocks. While you’re in West Penwith, make sure you delve into the fascinating World Heritage mining territory with an underground tour at Geevor tin mine, a walk along the cliffs at Botallack, or a trip to see a working beam engine in action at the Levant mine. The best way to sew together sections of the staggering scenery is simply by strolling along some of the South West Coast Path. If you’ve already broken your walking boots in, opt for

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Being home to some of the best beaches in Britain, consistent surf and almost 300 miles of stunning coast path, it’s no wonder that the seaside is a huge part of Cornwall’s pulling power some of the three-day hike between Penzance and St Ives, or for an easy-going two-hour stroll, wend through the woodland from Cawsand and trace the cliff path to the remains of the chapel perched on Rame Head. Some of the toughest sections of coastline await on the northern fringes of the Atlantic coast between Bude and Morwenstow, where calf-busting climbs etch the rise and fall of dramatic cliffs that collapse onto rocky beaches. By contrast, the lush terrain of the Roseland Peninsula boasts walking routes for all levels, with a particularly scenic stretch between the 13th century St Just-in-Roseland church and the chic waterside village of St Mawes. Not all of the walking country is coastal: the ancient pilgrims’ route of The Saints

Way crosses Cornwall from Padstow on the North Coast to Fowey on the South Coast, and the beguiling Bodmin Moor serves up whopping amounts of ancient history and landmarks within easy walking distance of its hamlets. From Minions explore The Hurlers stone circles, the Neolithic tomb of Rillaton Barrow and the Cheesewring rock stacks, or from Poldue Downs you can scale Cornwall’s highest peaks – Brown Willy and Rough Tor – within a couple of hours. If you prefer taking in the moorland landscape through the window, hop on a steam train and ride on the Bodmin and Wenford Railway. It’s free to take your bike aboard you so can take the train one way and cycle back along some of the Camel Trail. One of Cornwall’s most popular cycle routes, the Camel Trail, follows 18 miles of disused railway between Bodmin and Padstow, >> p21

SPEED & THRILLS Blackwater near Truro Open 7 days a week 10am - 5pm


largest trac

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01872 560753

find us at TR4 8HJ

The quad park has three dirt circuits for all ABILITIES and aGES SIX PLUS

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Enjoy a delicious roast dinner at Bombadingas every Sunday with FREE soft play included. Choose from two fresh joints of meat, a vast selection of seasonal vegetables and real gravy. Vegetarian and vegan options are available. Don’t miss out on our show stopping desserts!

whErE hisTory mEETs lEgEnd Explore the landscape and its centuries-old story through new displays and works of art.

Complete the day with a laser tag session in our Pirate themed arena! Table booking is essential so please call us on 01209 219 555 to book your table.

Tintagel, Cornwall PL34 0HE

Tel: 01209 219 555 Highburrow Lane, Pool TR15 3RX














PAT-A-PET | PONY RIDES | BOTTLE FEEDING | nature trail | HAYRIDE MUSEUM | bull pen indoor play area | drop slides | ball pools & more...

Start your adventure here!


Farmtastic fun for all the family!

NEW FOR 2017

open 29TH MARCH - 29th october 10:00AM - 5:00PM



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Cornwall’s enchanting narrow gauge railway linking historic Launceston with Newmills via the beautiful unspoilt Kensey Valley. Open from 10.30 a.m.

Tin is rock when it comes out of the Earth, find out how we turn it into metal

A fascinating family day out. Generous family fare discounts

Railway Café - hot and cold food and snacks. Open to all. Intriguing free Transport Museum - now enlarged! Excellent specialist railway Bookshop and DVDs Well-stocked Gift Shop DOWN THE HILL FROM THE CASTLE

2017 Season

April 12th - 14th , 16th - 19th May 28th - 31st, June 1st & 2nd Sundays/Mondays/Tuesdays in June

Free car park at Launceston Newport Industrial Estate (SatNav PL15 8EX) with access to the historic town centre via the famous ZigZag path

We collect ore cast up from the ocean floor by the pounding of stormy seas. Meet the people who extract it, dress it, refine it and make it into the end product. Follow the working process on a gentle walk around the site. Or visit to buy giftware and jewellery made here from our beautiful refined Blue Hills Tin.

Visit Launceston Castle

(reciprocal discounts available)

It is not just made in Cornwall but a piece of Cornwall.

Daily except Saturdays from July 2 nd - September 22 nd

Open: April 11th-October 14th, Tuesday-Saturday 10.00am-2.00pm July & August, Monday-Saturday. Prices: adults £6.50, children £3.00

Daily October 22nd - 27th Telephone: 01566 775665

Mark Wills, Blue Hills Tin, Wheal Kitty, St Agnes, Cornwall TR5 0YW

T. 01872 553341






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<< p16 and most of it is traffic free and easy-going. If you want more demanding off-road cycling, head to Cardinham Woods or Lanhydrock, where a series of bike trails and skills areas are graded for all abilities – from toddlers on tag-a-longs to hardcore mountain bikers. Both locations have wonderful woodland cafés and play areas, so you can enjoy a well-earned Cornish cream tea at the end of your ride. The National Trust’s Lanhydrock isn’t only a great family destination for biking; the grand Victorian manor house and sprawling country estate hosts a range of seasonal activities and makes a fantastic day out in every season. One of the most magical times of year to visit is in the spring, when the woodlands are carpeted with bluebells. Other must-see National Trust properties include the sub-tropical gardens of Glendurgan that tumble to the edge of the Helford River, and Trelissick’s stunning 500-acre estate where you wander along the banks of the River Fal and climb magnificent beech trees before afternoon tea in the courtyard. For a real adventure you can arrive by ferry from Falmouth or Truro (in peak season) or come and go from the Roseland Peninsula via the King Harry Ferry. Of all the county’s garden wonderlands, the Eden Project is still the global mega-star, so its rainforest and Mediterranean biomes rising from Cornwall’s barren clay country need little introduction. Another firm favourite with families – and dogs, too – is Trebah Garden, where you can wend through sub-tropical foliage to a divine sandy beach perfect for skimming pebbles. One of Cornwall’s most historic gardens is the Lost Gardens of Heligan, where you can tunnel through bamboo, banana palms and gigantic rhubarb plants, to ancient woodlands and water meadows. In a county so well endowed with flora and fauna, it’s no wonder that there are so many attractions where you can enjoy close encounters with wildlife. Watch rescued seal pups dipping and diving their way to recovery at the Cornish Seal Sanctuary in Gweek, and come face-to-face with giant octopus, turtles, sharks and other local and tropical marine species at Newquay’s Blue Reef Aquarium. Witness lobsters at different stages of their life cycle at the National Lobster Hatchery in Padstow, and if you’re really taken with these crustaceans you can adopt a baby lobster and track its release back into the sea. A day at the Newquay Zoo is always a real crowd pleaser,

where you can stroll from the African Savannah to Madagascar, observing over 100 species of wildlife from lions to poison dart frogs. If you’ve got the energy you can extend your day out with a trip to the nearby children’s play area with a bouldering wall and miniature train, then stroll around Trenance Gardens with its heritage cottages, boating lake and café. Animal enthusiasts will love meeting the rescued Capuchin monkeys and Barbary macaques at the Monkey Sanctuary, which is situated in stunning woodland gardens overlooking the coast between Looe and Seaton. Both the Screech Owl Sanctuary (near Newquay) and Paradise Park (in Hayle) put on incredible free-flying bird shows, and, in addition to its many species of exotic birds, Paradise >> p25

Of all the county’s garden wonderlands, the Eden Project is still the global mega-star, so its rainforest and Mediterranean biomes rising from Cornwall’s barren clay country need little introduction



(may contain nuts)

CORNWALL’S NO 1 PICNIC GARDEN Tanglewood Wild Garden is 9 acres of woodland and ponds, it is a 50/50 habitat – 50% for the humans and 50% for the abundant wildlife. This is not a formal garden, there are brambles and weeds which co-exist with many other plants a quiet haven where you can recharge your batteries.

Head down to Jungle Jack's and let your little monkeys run wild, have a blast and burn off some of that energy!

Opening times: Good Friday-October 31st, 10am-dusk everyday Prices: adults £5.00, children over 5yrs £2.00 (cash only)

Our purpose-built play-frame provides over 1,700 square feet of fun including challenging climbs, a rope bridge, our astraglide slide, crafty crawl tubes and peekaboo bubble windows. There's something for everyone at Jungle Jack's, including a dedicated baby and toddler area where the young ones can play safely. You'll find ample seating, a well-stocked café and free WiFi waiting for you here.

Visit our website for opening times and prices: Telephone: 01637 852890 Email: 13 & 14 Treloggan Trade Park | Newquay | Cornwall | TR7 2QL

Tanglewood Wild Garden, Newbridge, Penzance TR20 8PL 01736 787073 | 07581339501

The Front Room is a quirky central Penzance cafe & bar. We offer specialty coffee, sumptuous all day breakfasts, filling lunches & amazing cakes or cream teas. All our food is made fresh to order using the best produce from selected passionate, local producers & wholesalers. We serve our guests from 8am, Monday to Saturday and from 10am on Sundays. Give us a call : 01736 448681 Come visit : 83 Market Jew Street, Penzance, TR18 2LG Check out our website : Or Facebook :

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“GREAT DAY OUT – superb day out, lots to see! I can not thank the staff enough for putting up with my children, taking the time to explain things, taking family pictures and letting us sit in the cockpits, a superb day”

Climb aboard many of our classic aircraft from the 1950s onwards. Talk to our knowledgeable volunteers and hear all about the roles our aircraft carried out. A great day out for both young and old Indoor and outdoor exhibits Rated 5 star on TripAdvisor “SIMPLY BRILLIANT – if you love aircrafts then visit here! It’s a breath of fresh air compared to the ‘do not touch, stay off’ policy of every other museum of its kind”

Cornwall Aviation Heritage Centre, HAS 3, Aerohub 2, Newquay, Cornwall TR8 4JN (follow signs for RAF St Mawgan)



Murder Mysteries, Steam, Beer & Jazz, Dining Trains, Steam & Cream and more!

Cornwall’s Premier Steam Railway

STEAM TRAINS PAY ONCE – TRAVEL ALL DAY! Discover the excitement and nostalgia of steam travel with a journey back in time aboard Cornwall’s premier steam railway.

01208 73555




Open Daily

• Hear about our rescued seals and their stories • Meet our otters, penguins & many more amazing creatures • Explore woodland walks, relax at our café and enjoy the amazing views of Helford River • With fun talks, animal feeds, a kids quiz trail and pirate play area, there’s loads for the whole family to enjoy

Pay once and come back all week Great savings online Please check our website for opening times Gweek Advert 185x120.indd 1

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<< p21 Park also has farm animals and a huge soft play barn that lures visitors on even the rainiest days. With the Cornish weather being so unpredictable, there are plenty of all-weather attractions. Dive into Cornwall’s seafaring heritage at the National Maritime Museum, step back to a time when Cornwall was at the forefront of world communications at the Porthcurno Telegraph Museum, and discover fascinating artefacts from over 150 foundered ships at the Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre. Here you can also watch the many scenes from the recent BBC series of Poldark that were filmed in this historic port that also features in dozens of blockbuster film sets. There are few places more steeped in history than Cornwall’s majestic castles. Wait for low tide to cross the causeway to St Michael’s Mount, walking in the footsteps of pilgrims and a legendary giant as you climb to the turrets of the mighty fortress. Even more beguiling is the remains of Tintagel Castle, a crumbling edifice atop a rocky, sea-lashed promontory accessed via a footbridge. Believed by many to be the place where King Arthur was magically conceived, more

solid evidence proves that these magnificent 13th century ruins once belonged to the Earl of Cornwall, before which this was the site of a prosperous Dark Age settlement. If you want to experience the sights and sounds of battle, you’ll love the interactive exhibits at Henry VIII’s iconic Pendennis Castle, which protects the world’s third deepest natural harbour at the entrance to the River Fal. While Falmouth stands out for its rich maritime history, and its scenery is dominated by the comings and goings of boats and cruise ships from the harbour, the town and its surrounding Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty offer a diverse platter of things to do in any season. A creative hub crammed with resident artists, a lively music scene and home to one of the UK’s leading art and media universities, you’ll find a menu of films, theatre productions, exhibitions and creative gatherings at The Poly, as well as a vibrant series of events from sailing regattas to the Falmouth Oyster Festival. From Falmouth it’s easy to ferry hop to the chic waterside villages of St Mawes, Portscatho and Flushing, or take a boat all

the way to Truro and browse the many independent boutiques in the shadow of the stunning Cathedral. Other scenic ways to hit the shops and galleries include the coastal railway to arty St Ives and the Black Tor ferry from Rock to Padstow. Renowned as the foodie heart of Cornwall, Padstow is not only home to countless top-notch eateries – from Rick Stein’s flagship Seafood Restaurant to Paul Ainsworth’s Number 6 – but it’s also a pebble’s throw from many of the county’s leading food and drink producers. A few miles along the Camel Trail from the town you can make a pit-stop at Camel Valley Vineyard and sample their award-winning vintages including the regional bubbly – Cornwall ‘Brut’ – the perfect tipple for a sundowner after any day out in Cornwall. Flummoxed about which sights and attractions to take in on your day out in Cornwall? Why not tailor-make your own itinerary with Tour Cornwall? From Poldark and Doc Martin tours to garden and wildlife tours, you can witness the best of Cornwall on a private, small group tour in the hands of a knowledgeable local expert. ❑




YOU MUST DO! There are loads of things to do here – but make sure you don’t miss these


{01} Go surfing at Fistral Beach Many of Cornwall’s pro surfers cut their teeth on the waves at Fistral, and it’s the beach that put Newquay on the map as the UK’s surfing capital. Home to numerous surfing outlets and expert instructors, there are few better places to get to grips with the art of wave riding and immerse yourself in the county’s surfy lifestyle.

{02} Take the train to St Ives


Hop aboard one of the most scenic train lines in Britain and gaze out at gob-smacking coastal landscapes that have lured artists to this fishing village since the 19th century. Disembark beside Porthminster Beach, then take a spin around this arty town, taking in the famous Tate St Ives, Barbara Hepworth’s Sculpture Garden and the Leach Pottery.

{03} Explore a World Heritage landscape Cornwall’s rich mining past has won much of its landscape World Heritage status, putting it on a par with the Taj Mahal and the Egyptian pyramids. In West Cornwall you can clap eyes on the Atlantic-lashed engine house at Botallack mine and step into a miner’s shoes with an underground tour at Geevor Tin Mine.

{04} Feel dwarfed by nature at Bedruthan Steps Britain’s equivalent of Australia’s Twelve Apostles, at Bedruthan Steps a row of towering granite stacks rise from the sand. Most visitors take snaps of these rock giants

from the cliff tops, but at low tide you can climb down 140-something steps to the rugged beach – then reward yourself with a cream tea at Carnewas Tearooms after the calf-aching walk back up.

{05} Play lighthouse keeper on the Lizard Set foot on the tip of the Lizard Peninsula and you’re on the most southerly point of mainland Britain. As well as witnessing the stunning seascapes where seals and basking sharks often make an appearance, you can also visit the Lizard Lighthouse Heritage Centre to climb the tower, sound a foghorn, track ships and learn Morse Code.

{06} Cycle from coast to coast Freewheel through World Heritage landscapes as you follow 15 miles of disused mineral tramways from coast-to-coast. From Portreath on the Atlantic coast to Devoran in the south, this easy off-road cycle route wends through historic mining, woodland and coastal territory, all the way to the traditional creekside watering hole of Devoran’s Old Quay Inn.

{07} All aboard on the River Fal Hop across to the Roseland Peninsula on the scenic King Harry chain ferry, take a river cruise from Falmouth to Truro, or putter into chic St Mawes. Fal River Links runs a network of

ferries on and around the River Fal, and with a Fal Mussel Card you can enjoy unlimited travel on all the services.

{08} Cast away to St Michael’s Mount Walk in the footsteps of pilgrims and a legendary giant when you cross the causeway to this sea-bound castle. On the island you can hunt for the giant’s stone heart, stand in the firing line of bygone battles and explore sub-tropical gardens. Wait for the tide to come in and hop back to the mainland by boat or amphicraft.

{09} Experience Eden The world-famous biomes of the Eden Project need little introduction. Step into a rainforest, explore the Med, get up-close to nature and enjoy all sorts of family events, trails and activities at this unique all-weather attraction. From storytelling to scrumptious Cornish cuisine, there’s something here for all ages.

{10} Climb Cornwall’s highest peaks Head to the wild territory of Bodmin Moor to scale Cornwall’s two highest peaks – Rough Tor (400m) and Brown Willy (420m). It’s a relatively easy walk across rolling moorland littered with prehistoric remains, and from the summits you can enjoy far-reaching countryside and coastal views. ❑



A TASTE OF THE SOUTH WEST â&#x20AC;&#x201C; AND THE WORLD! Whether you tuck into seafood flipped from rod to pan or ice cream churned from cow to cone, seaside living has never tasted better




o longer just famous for its Cornish pasties and clotted cream, Cornwall has fast become one of the finest foodie destinations in Britain. Gone are the chintzy cafés – these days gastronomes are queuing up for lip-smacking, local ingredients served in a new wave of stylish eateries helmed by a growing number of resident super-chefs. From award-winning ice cream and cider to wild venison and sustainablysourced seaweed, Cornwall’s ingredients are diverse and divine. But it’s not just the calibre of the food and drink, or the talent in the kitchen, that gives Cornwall’s dining scene the edge – it’s the location. Tables spilling out onto the sand and dining rooms boasting amazing coast and countryside views are commonplace. As Jamie Oliver said when he opened Fifteen Cornwall on Watergate Bay: “I have never seen a better seaside setting for a restaurant – I am well chuffed”. As we care more about the provenance of our food, it’s little wonder that Cornwall has become so popular with epicureans. Not only can you look out to

the sea, cliffs and countryside where your food has come from, you can also forage, fish and learn to cook under the tutelage of the region’s experts. Take a walk with Fat Hen’s Caroline Davey and gather the likes of wild garlic, edible seaweeds, berries and herbs, before using them to create hearty and delectable dishes. “The seashore is one of the most productive places for wild food,” says Caroline, who has proved the potential of Cornwall’s natural ingredients by supplying them to some of the county’s top chefs. If you’re a fan of Rick Stein, you can follow in the food hero’s footsteps and learn how to fillet, prepare and cook the finest local produce at his Cookery School in Padstow. It’s not only Cornwall’s food that’s highly rated on the national menu; with a Cornish gin distillery, an internationally-acclaimed vineyard and local coffee roasters, its drinks are creating a tasty tidal wave, too. The multi-award winning Rebel Brewing Company and the Harbour Brewing Company are amongst a growing number of

microbreweries producing specialist craft beers, while Healey’s Cornish Cyder Farm turn the fruits from their orchards into thirst-quenching ciders and tangy spirits. Nowhere is better proof of the advantages of the sub-tropical climate for growers than the vine-covered slopes of the Camel Valley, where award-winning wines including the county’s own ‘Cornwall’ Brut Champagne. If you want to sample the best of the region’s produce in one sitting, there’s a smorgasbord of foodie events to tantalise your taste buds, and it’s no surprise that plenty of the festivities are in honour of the fruits of the sea. The Falmouth Oyster Festival in October celebrates the oyster-dredging season in one of the last traditional oyster fisheries while, of all the fish festivals, Newlyn hosts the whopper on August Bank Holiday, in the home of Cornwall’s largest fishing fleet. Truro hosts a fabulous farmers’ market every Wednesday and Saturday on Lemon Quay, but the biggest annual foodie extravaganza is the Great Cornish Food Festival >> p31






Tuesday to Friday 11.30am–2.00pm

Tuesday to Saturday From 6.30pm

fine dining No.3 Fore Street Lostwithiel

rated the


Restaurant in Lostwithiel on

“Superb” “First class in everyway” “Amazing food, incredibly friendly” 01208 872 373

Bush Pepper is a fresh, fusion Australian influenced restaurant, using a mix of Australian and Cornwall’s finest ingredients to produce an array of dishes that bring a new twist to the usual dining options in Newquay.

St Mabyn Inn

A proper country pub in the heart of North Cornwall

Open for

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner 10am till 11pm (last sitting 9.30pm)

01637 852 530

SERVING FOOD DAILY EVERY LUNCHTIME & EVENING Our menus change regularly to keep things seasonal, local and ‘ansom’

Tel: 01208 841266 | Email: 6 Fore Street | Newquay | TR7 1LN

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Find us in the village by the church. Sat nav - PL30 3BA



You need to book months ahead to bag a table at the famous Seafood Restaurant, which serves out-of-thisworld seafood at prices to match its pedigree

held here in September. There’s no better way to sample the mouth-watering Cornish cuisine than by taking a tour of the county’s foodie gems – from the restaurants of the big-name super chefs to the lesserknown kitchens of local culinary artisans. Seeing as ‘Padstein’ sparked Cornwall’s foodie revolution when Stein opened his flagship Seafood Restaurant here in 1975, there’s no better place to begin than this picturesque harbour town that has made its reputation from the quality of the produce plucked from the surrounding coast and countryside. Stein still has the monopoly over the town and you need to book months ahead to bag a table at the famous Seafood Restaurant, which serves out-of-this-world seafood at prices to match its pedigree. More intimate and affordable is Stein’s Café, where you can enjoy a reasonably-priced set menu showcasing local seafood and global flavours. Year-round queues suggest that Stein’s Fish and Chips is the best chippy in town, and it undoubtedly serves up the widest range of locally-landed fish, which can be washed down with ales made by nearby Sharp’s Brewery. However, an essential departure from Stein’s restaurants, and arguably the best place to eat in Padstow, is Paul Ainsworth at No.6. Here Ainsworth spins bold, seasonal ingredients – think Porthilly oysters from the Camel Estuary or monkfish fresh off the day boats – into mouth-watering, modern British dishes. If you can’t get a table or aren’t keen on the price tag, opt for the more informal experience of Ainsworth’s Rojano’s in the Square and tuck into the devilish combo of Italian cuisine and Cornish produce. In a small town so well endowed with gourmet treasures, picking a place to eat can be somewhat confusing. Notable newcomers making a splash include the trendy harbour-


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side Burgers and Fish, and the Prawn on the Lawn fishmonger and seafood bar that serves lobsters, crabs and fish flipped straight off the boats onto the charcoal grill. North Cornwall’s foodie gems are by no means relegated to this gastronomic enclave; the surrounding area is also smattered with tasty gems. Topping the list is Nathan Outlaw’s duo of restaurants in pretty Port Isaac, where his menus are driven by what comes in from the fishing boats a pebble’s throw from the kitchen. You don’t have to wait for a special occasion or even a sit-down meal to experience the freshest local catch – make a pit-stop at nearby Port Quin and take away one of the best crab sandwiches in Cornwall, served from the hatch of Fiona’s vintage van. Emily Scott is somewhat of a local food hero who made her name in Port Isaac then relocated to

transform the St Tudy Inn into one of the region’s dining hotspots. Tucked away between the coast and the moors, this remote country inn lures gastronomes from far and wide with ‘simple, seasonal, beautiful’ food. Another of the area’s cosy local pubs that’s a regular in the Michelin Guide is the St Kew Inn, where you can hunker under the beams for hearty Cornish fare accompanied by St Austell beers from wooden casks. On the outskirts of Padstow, one of Jamie Oliver’s protégés, Andy Appleton, brings together the best of Cornwall and Italy at Appleton’s at the Vineyard. Enveloped by Trevibban Mill vineyard and orchards, with his own vegetable garden and pastures to rear lambs, Appleton’s groundbreaking venture smacks as much of the enviable Cornish lifestyle and the importance of local provenance, as it does of mouth-watering, innovative dishes such as roasted squash, >> p33



A warm and friendly welcome awaits you from Rob and Nat Liddicoat and the team at Lanivet Inn. Lanivet Inn is a community led village pub focusing on all the things that make a good pub great; quality food made from fresh locally sourced produce, the best kept real ales, music, Sky Sports and BT SPORT, games and whole lot of fun. Enjoy quality home-made food all at very reasonable prices with an extensive menu along with a good choice of daily specials.

k Large carpark k Dog and family friendly k Large well-appointed beer garden Truro Road, Lanivet, Bodmin PL30 5ET

T. 01208 831212

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ricotta and bee pollen granola. Cruise down the Atlantic Highway to Newquay and you’ll find that the UK’s surf capital and its surrounds have undergone somewhat of a foodie resurgence in the decade since Jamie Oliver opened the doors of Fifteen Cornwall here. Serving Italian-inspired cuisine overlooking Watergate Bay’s two miles of surf-lashed sands, Jamie Oliver’s restaurant needs little introduction. If you can’t get a table for lunch or dinner try your luck for breakfast, or see if you can bag a last-minute seat at the antipasti bar. If you prefer the sort of place where you can come straight off the beach without shaking the sand from your toes, take a seat downstairs at The Beach Hut, and grab a legendary burger, an Extreme Hot Chocolate or seafood-biased bistro favourites. Newquay’s platter of eateries offer a global dining experience, from Portuguese to a unique Aussie-style restaurant, Bush Pepper, serving kangaroo and crocodile. However, in a place where you can watch the fishing boats putter in and out of the harbour, Newquay’s the perfect location to sample the fruits of the sea. Both the unpretentious Boathouse (hunkered beside Newquay Harbour) and the Harbour Fish and Grill (overlooking the harbour) are stunning locations to try the lobsters, crabs and fresh fish landed here. If you prefer to dine looking out to world-class waves, there is a congregation of


<< p31

eateries vying for attention beside the surfing mecca of Fistral. Surfer and chef Paul Harwood uses local ingredients in elegant, rustic dishes at The Fish House, while the neighbouring Rick Stein’s Fistral serves up Indian specialities alongside the finest fish. Upstairs at The Stable, hand-made pizzas and pies are piled high with regional produce and accompanied by a vast selection of West Country ciders. While there are lots more places in Newquay where you can dine with a sea view, Gusto Deli Bar takes it one step further by packing up finger-licking food boxes – including Sunday roasts – to take away and eat with toes in the sand. Head West to St Ives, and you’ll find that this arty town is fast chasing Padstow for the reputation of Cornwall’s top culinary destination. The Porthminster Café is a long-standing favourite with a string of accolades, so if you want to soak up the beachside vibes over ingredients plucked from the ocean and the café’s kitchen garden, it’s worth booking ahead. Or, you could detour to The Porthminster’s more relaxed and more intimate sister restaurant, the Porthgwidden Café, where you can enjoy Mediterranean and Asian-influenced dishes on the edge of a white-sand cove. Other notable jewels in St Ives’ Michelinstarred stable include the retro-chic Porthmeor Café Bar – serving tapas and >> p35

Newquay’s platter of eateries offer a global dining experience, from Portuguese to a unique Aussie-style restaurant serving kangaroo and crocodile



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Mediterranean-inspired feasts beside St Ives’ famous surf beach, and the stylish Alba – a former lifeboat station where you can enjoy modern British dishes and bag the best bay views from the upstairs dining room. One restaurant worth bypassing the views for is The Black Rock, a true Cornish gem run by a third-generation fisherman who uses line-caught fish, forages for wild ingredients and keeps his own Galloway cows on the family farm in Zennor. Beyond St Ives it’s worth seeking out the wild, ends-of-the-earth location of The Gurnard’s Head, a stylish country inn serving seasonal produce plucked from the Cornish larder. Here the chefs make the most of the landscape’s natural bounty such as sea beet, samphire and three-cornered leeks. One of Cornwall’s top chefs, Ben Tunnicliffe, has made his mark on the culinary map of West Cornwall, with the transformation of Newlyn’s Tolcarne Inn into a simple, seafood restaurant serving seafood from the local fishing fleet in the ambience of a traditional boozer. On the back of his success he has also opened Ben Tunnicliffe at Sennen, where he serves his signature dishes in a laid-back, family-friendly location overlooking stunning surf-lashed sands. Moving onto South Cornwall, Falmouth is littered with foodie gems, from Rick Stein’s Fish to the more unusual Oliver’s – a stripped back little bistro that’s made its mark by using exquisite seasonal and foraged foods. Seafood


<< p33

It’s hard to take your eyes off the view, even when a whole Cornish lobster is brought to the table lovers, get your bibs and finger bowls ready for lashings of seafood served in Portuguese cataplanas (cooking pans) at the Wheelhouse Crab and Oyster Bar, or stroll along the coast path to Hooked on the Rocks at Swanpool Beach, where it’s hard to take your eyes off the view, even when a whole Cornish lobster is brought to the table. If you want to dine on the beach of your choice, lay out your rug and Picnic Cornwall will deliver a bespoke hamper stuffed with delicious Cornish goodies from champagne and strawberries to artisan breads and Cornish cheeses. Hop on a ferry from Falmouth to chic St Mawes on the Roseland Peninsula, where Olga Polizzi’s Tresanton Hotel is still one of the hottest dining spots for a slap-up seafood feast overlooking the water. Nearby, The Watch House also serves local seafood in a relaxed dining space with booths and portholes looking out to sea. The secret is long out about the Hidden Hut on the Porthcurnick Beach, where you can enjoy summer salads or seasonal soups at lunchtime, or try your luck for a gold-dust ticket to one of the magical feast nights, when the likes of paella and wood-roasted lamb are

cooked over the beachside fire-pit. East Cornwall is sometimes the forgotten corner of a foodie tour, but it’s worth making the effort to discover some of its hidden gastronomic gems. In the small village of Antony near Torpoint, the Carew Arms has recently been opened to huge acclaim, with consultant chef Emily Watkins (of the Great British Menu) focusing on local and seasonal ingredients and an innovative play on classic dishes, such as roasted beets and goat’s cheese ‘in the hole’. Graze on simple, modern seafood dishes at The View in Whitsands, and as you look out to Eddystone Lighthouse and the Cornish coastline it’s easy to see where the restaurant got its name. Inland at London Apprentice, the wow-factor of the fresh fish and locally-reared beef served at the Kingswood doesn’t rely on any such views to make it one the area’s must-go dining spots. On the other hand, if you do want a fully-fledged toes-in-the-sand beach experience, throw caution to the Cornish weather and head to Crinnis Beach in St Austell, where Sam’s @ The Bay serves classic ‘Samburgers’ and Fowey mussels from a quirky Tikki hut with al-fresco seating. q




IF YOU’RE ONLY HERE FOR 48 HOURS… You can pack a lot into a couple of days – try this itinerary to make the most of it


ith improved transport links it’s quick and easy to get to Cornwall from every corner of the country, which has put the region on the map as a prime short-break destination. Here’s how to spend 48 hours here.


Day one Fly directly into Newquay and head straight to the heart of town to check the surf over morning coffee at No.5 Brewhouse. Strike out south along the coast path to the 14th century Huer’s Hut, where you can look out at the coastal panorama from where the ‘huer’ would shout “Heva, Heva,” to alert local fishermen when shoals of pilchards came into the bay. From here it’s only minutes on foot to Fistral Beach for a surf lesson at the UK’s surfing capital. Fuel up with a lazy lunch watching the world-class waves – choose from pizza and cider at The Stable, global cuisine at Rick Stein’s or local seafood at The Fish House. Once you’ve kitted yourself out in surf fashion at the cluster of waterside shops, it’s time to get behind the wheel and make tracks north to the market town of Wadebridge, pausing at the Camel Valley Vineyard to sample award-winning vintages. Then swap four wheels for two and hire a bike from Bridge Bike Hire to freewheel along the Camel Trail to Padstow.

Once you’re in Cornwall’s foodie mecca don't waste too much time queuing at Stein’s Fish and Chips – there are plenty more places to stuff yourself to the gills in the heart of town and beyond. Instead fill your picnic basket with pasties and sweet treats at Stein’s Patisserie and hop on the Black Tor Ferry to cross the estuary to Rock. Climb the grassy knoll of Brae Hill to capture the scenery that inspired Poet Laureate John Betjeman, and then feel the sand between your toes on beautiful Daymer Bay. Returning via the wonky-steepled St Enodoc Church where Betjeman is buried, quench your thirst with a locally-brewed beer at The Mariners yachtie pub in Rock. It’s up to you whether you hop back on the ferry for dinner in Padstow or press on to Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen in pretty Port Isaac.

Day two Treat yourself to breakfast surfside at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen on Watergate Bay, then hotfoot down the A30 to Lelant Saltings and board the coastal railway to St Ives. Soak up the views made famous across the globe via John Miller’s paintings, and disembark beside the pearly sands of Porthminster for lunch at the Michelinstarred Porthminster Beach Café. You’re bound to loiter in the boutiques and

arty haunts that line the cobbled streets, but make sure there’s time to admire the monumental sculptures in the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Gardens, and take a spin around the Tate St Ives once it re-opens in spring 2017. Dip into the history of this fishing village turned artists colony at the St Ives Museum (once a pilchard curing cellar) before strolling around ‘the island’, keeping your eyes peeled for dolphins and climb to the tiny St Nicholas Chapel on the way to surf-lashed Porthmeor. While the walk from Porthmeor to Zennor is possibly one of the finest four-hour stretches on the entire South West Coast Path, save time by hopping on the open-topped bus to the wild little place much-loved by DH Lawrence and steeped in tales of a legendary mermaid. After a pint at the traditional Tinners Arms, follow the coast road to the westerly tip of mainland Britain to take a souvenir photo on Land’s End. Instead of getting caught up in the ‘theme park’ attractions here, backtrack a mile or so to Sennen Cove for a sundowner and seafood feast overlooking the crashing waves at Ben Tunnicliffe’s Michelin-starred restaurant. If you want a whirlwind trip around the best of Cornwall in 48 hours, tailor-make a private itinerary with an expert guide at Tour Cornwall. q




LIKE TO SHOP? YOU’LL LOVE IT HERE! Fill your basket with artisan goods inspired by the coastal lifestyle



hopping in Cornwall is nothing like going shopping in the rest of the country. Forget shopping malls and common high street names, here you can fill your bags in local craft markets, unique boutiques, independent fashion dens and interiors emporiums, all inspired by the coastal lifestyle. If you love to shop, earmark a day to hit Cornwall’s only city: Truro. Here you’ll find everything from vintage fashion shops to artisan bakeries lining cobbled streets in the shadow of the cathedral. Dip into Lemon Street Market for funky home-ware, upcycled gifts, organic bread and hand-made jewellery, and follow your nose to the farmers’ market that takes over Lemon Quay every Wednesday and Saturday. If you love stylish interiors, stop in at the Uneeka home and lifestyle market on your way out of town. Whether you’re looking for fresh local ingredients or locally-inspired treasures

to bring back memories of your holiday, the streets of St Ives are laced with surf shacks, art dens, bookstores, galleries and unique boutiques, all just a pebble’s throw from the sea. One of the most unusual shops in town is Kudos, on Fore Street, a tardis crammed with eclectic artefacts and alternative souvenirs – think rope balls, anchors and Amethyst cathedrals alongside ancient cameras, antique furniture, flying pigs and musical instruments. It’s in the backwater alleys that you’ll unearth the most unusual artisan gems, such as stained glass, driftwood sculptures and beach-inspired jewellery sold by local artists in the Sloop Craft Market’s little enclave of studios. While the majority of visitors make a beeline for St Ives in search of arty purchases, nearby Penzance is a more Bohemian market town where you can stroll along the Victorian promenade, take a dip in the Art Deco lido and enjoy a shopping spree in contemporary and

classic arty haunts. For unique and affordable design accessories head to Space, where you can find everything from designer lampshades to vintage tea sets complete with retro tea cosies. Neighbouring Marazion is also well endowed with galleries and gift shops footsteps from the beach. At Avalon Art you’ll discover a collection of contemporary paintings, jewellery, textiles and ceramics by local artists, or you can browse artwork by some of Cornwall’s greats, including Terry Frost and Kurt Jackson, at Out of the Blue Gallery. A short hop along the crescent of Mount’s Bay in Mousehole you can pop into The Ark to meet a local pewter craftsman who hand-makes jewellery and ornaments out of this silver-grey alloy that contains Cornish tin. Within easy reach of St Ives and Mounts Bay, Hayle is getting a reputation as an alternative shopping haven, with all sorts of independent shops popping up along the >> p41



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<< p39 foreshore of this estuary town that was one of the most important mining ports in the world during the Industrial Revolution. Glam up with unique fashion items in Dune Boutique, deck yourself out with the latest surfing gear in Down the Line, and discover a thriving community of independent makers, designers and artists in the historic Pratt’s Market where you can find everything from a yarn shop to vintage furniture. Another historic market town with a buzzing shopping scene, this time straddling the River Camel, is Wadebridge. A short distance along the Camel Trail from Padstow it’s little surprise to find an abundance of foodie shops in town – from traditional butchers to artisan bakeries. However, it’s also the array of music shops, fashion boutiques and quirky gift shops interspersed with divine cafés and wine bars that makes shopping here such a joy. For timeless Cornish and Scandinavian home-wares and lifestyle products, take a visit to Coastal Spaces and complete your beachinspired interior with accessories from the Cornwall Rug Company. Whether you cycle from Wadebridge, hop on the ferry from Rock or park and ride the

Any surfer wannabes would be foolish to bypass the shopping experience of Newquay – home to one of the largest collections of surf shops in Europe bus into town, Padstow is possibly one of the most picturesque pit stops for shoppers who want to take home a piece of the chic coastal lifestyle. Stroll along the quayside to peruse Dreya Wharry’s stained-glass seascapes at The Picture House, or get your hands on limited edition prints, unusual ceramics and bespoke patchwork furniture at Quay Art. Rick Stein’s interest in the town doesn’t stop at food; his ex-wife is also at the helm of a wonderful gift shop stacked with jewellery, ceramics and stylish home-ware inspired by her travels. Cruise west along the Atlantic Highway and pull over to discover an array of art, food, furniture and trendy interior accessories at the county’s coolest up-and-coming shopping hub, Hawkesfield. Here, the Goose Shed is crammed with vintage interior accessories, while Circle Contemporary is wall-to-wall with vibrant and

inspiring artworks rooted in the environment and nature. Any surfer wannabes would be foolish to bypass the shopping experience of Newquay – home to one of the largest collections of surf shops in Europe. After one lap of the town you can be dressed up and dapper in the latest surf fashion, or ready to hit the waves with a wetsuit and board. Or, you can simply do a one-stop-shop at the Fistral Surf Complex, where there’s a line-up of surfside shops including Ann’s Cottage, Fat Face, Quiksilver and Animal. Style queens should head out of town to Porth Beach, where the ultra-trendy Roo’s Beach boutique is styled on the Cornish coastal life and crammed with designer clothes and accessories for beach babes. Carry on to Mawgan Porth and you’ll find a creative little community huddled by the beach. Original coastal-themed woodwork and crafts can be found in KaranDave studios, where a duo of local artists create laser-cut, hand-painted art inspired by the local >> p43



Cornish – Handmade – Skincare

Visit our little shop tucked away in the Cornish countryside at Trevarno Farm, Prospidnick, Nr Helston, Cornwall TR13 0RY T: 01326 555 977

Jewellery by design since 1890 …the home of Cornish Tin & Gold

15 & 17 Meneage Street, Helston 01326 572154

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For the perfect Cornish romance…

26 Arwenack Street, Falmouth 01326 317222



Wind your way down into the heart of the village to buy unusual hand-crafted gifts, including ceramics, metalwork and Cornish charm beads

<< p41 environment. Just opposite is the unusual Disco Beads, where you can hand-make your own jewellery using eye-catching beads that glow in the light. An unlikely yet rewarding destination for shoppers is the village of St Agnes, enveloped by some of Cornwall’s World Heritage mining territory. Perched on the cliffs, on the site of the historic Wheal Kitty mine, is the Finisterre workshop – the perfect place to kit yourself out for blustery coast path walks and saltwater adventures. Conceived by a group of cold-water surfers, this award-winning clothing brand produces functional, fashionable and ethically sourced clothing made for life in the Great Outdoors. Wind your way down into the heart of the village to buy unusual hand-crafted gifts, including ceramics and metalwork from Churchtown Arts, and Cornish charm beads, hand-made pendants and hand-blown glass art from the Little Feathers Gallery. In the Jo Polack Studio and Gallery you can watch the textile artist at work creating her felt art, eco

sculptures, shimmering mackerel shoals and stitch maps of local towns and villages. If you’re looking for arty gifts to remind you of your holiday, there are some unique spaces that bring together the best of Cornish art under one roof. Port Isaac Pottery is a family venture within the walls of a restored Methodist chapel, where you can get your hands on pottery and paintings that echo the coastline, as well as hand-made ceramics and award-winning photography. Polperro’s Ebenezer Gallery is a 19th century chapel housing a huge range of multi-media artwork by members of the East Cornwall Society of Artists. Far out west, on the edge of Sennen Cove, you can dive into the quirky Roundhouse and Capstan Gallery, the flagship location for West of Eden Fine Art and a showcase for local art and crafts inspired by the surrounding scenery. If you’ve got a penchant for places and possessions steeped in art, literature and maritime style,

the destination to flash your cash is Falmouth. Here you will find one of Cornwall’s most famous galleries, Beside The Wave, crammed with the work of some of the county’s most established contemporary artists. In fact, the art here – mostly landscapes rooted in Cornwall’s coast and countryside – has become so sought after that a second gallery space has now been opened in London. If words are your passion, you can get captivating literature signed by local authors at the traditional Falmouth Bookseller, or browse wall-to-wall books over a beer at the quirky Beerwolf Books. For an assortment of maritime gifts, from model sailing boats and beach-inspired jewellery to a coastal cookbook or cuddly crabs, you can’t find a better selection than that at the National Maritime Museum Gift Shop. A better-kept secret is Sarah’s Shop, tucked away on the Helford Passage that wends inland from the outskirts of Falmouth. This tiny boutique is filled to the rafters with utterly unique seaside gifts (think Kath Kidston comes to Cornwall), most of which are hand-crafted and locally-made. While most visitors head to picturesque Porthleven to take snaps of the muchphotographed clock tower or to surf one of the UK’s best reef breaks, this pint-sized harbour town is also something of a secret shopping hotspot. Watch the waves from the harbour wall then step into Waves Surf Art Gallery to clap eyes on images which capture the power, beauty and hues of the ocean. Take home colourful Cornish beach scenes in the form of prints, coasters and placemats from Albatross Art, or, if you like rustic home accessories and hand-crafted gifts, you’ll find everything from driftwood mirrors to striking sea-life wall art at the Stargazey emporium. >> p45



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For almost a century Pengelly’s of Looe have been supplying local people with the freshest selection of fish and shellfish from the day-boat fleet of Looe and Polperro. The fish sold at Pengelly’s is among the freshest and highest quality in the UK. Our fish comes from sustainable stocks, fished using traditional methods in harmony with the environment. Shop the finest day-caught fish and seafood from the Looe fishing fleet, straight from our wonderful fishmongers. If you are travelling, we have thermal bags and ice packs to keep your purchase fresh.

01503 262 246 The Quay, Looe PL13 1DX From Easter to September we are open 7 days a week

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Find us on



<< p43 The Slipway Studio Gallery and Craft Workshop is packed with photography, prints, books and gifts, most of which is produced by a talented hub of local artists and makers. Famous for its chic maritime style, the bustling harbour-side town of Fowey is another fine place to fill your shopping bags. In the cluster of independent shops and waterside boutiques you’ll find all sorts of coastal-inspired gifts from hand-made jewellery and literary treasures to glassware and beach fashion. Dip into the Toe in the Water Gallery for a range of creations by local artists and makers – from hand-made jewellery and fused glass to original prints and paintings. Take a trip out to The Gribbin Gallery on Porthkerris Beach, and browse modern seascapes and glasswork on display in the quirky setting of a 17th century pilchard store. Follow the river inland from Fowey and you’ll eventually reach the small town of Lostwithiel, an ancient stannary town that has become the antiques capital of Cornwall.

The pretty 12th century streets are packed with antique and gift shops, including the eccentric Black Dog Antiques and Interiors emporium housed in Duchy Palace – one of Cornwall’s oldest buildings. Now that Cornwall has a reputation for being one of the UK’s foodie destinations, any shopping trip here is bound to include some tasty treats to take home. If you love chocolate and art, follow your taste buds to The Chocolate Factory and Craft Centre near Mullion (on the Lizard Peninsula), where you can see chocolatiers making mouth-watering morsels, dip into an Aladdin’s cave of gifts and jewellery, sample skincare products made with Cornish honey, discover local artwork and meet the llamas. With Padstow being the town that put the county on the gastronomes’ map, it’s little wonder that the Padstow Farm Shop boasts one of Cornwall’s most impressive arrays of lip-smacking local produce, including fresh pasta made on site and Cornish durum flour that’s favoured by the chefs at Jamie Oliver’s

Fifteen Cornwall. A short hop up the coast, and close to Port Isaac, is the Trevathan Farm Shop in St Endellion, where you can also stock up on delectable local fare from fresh veg and local preserves to fudge, free-range eggs and Cornish wines. St Ives is hot on the heels of Padstow’s foodie reputation, and here you’ll also find shops piled high with gourmet delights. Pack your picnic hamper with artisan bread, crumbly cheeses and cured meats from The Allotment Deli or The Digey Food Room. Just out of town in Connor Downs is Trevaskis Farm, where you can fill your basket with piles of local goodies from fish and dairy produce to farm-reared meats, just-picked veg and pick-your-own summer fruits. If you think you’ll get peckish on your shopping road trip, Falmouth’s Courtyard Deli and the Cornish Smokehouse in Grampound Road go one step further than providing delectable Cornish produce – they will even pack you a bespoke hamper or lunchbox that you can tuck into on the road. q




A REGION AT THE HEART OF ART! Immerse yourself in a county that’s crammed with art and culture from the coast to the countryside


istorically a stronghold for artists, Cornwall is a place that’s steeped in creativity. Stand back and admire captivating artwork in world-class galleries, or get hands on with painting, pottery or poetry workshops. The most obvious destination to get to the heart of the art scene is St Ives, where artists have flocked since the 1930s, when they took over the net lofts deserted by fishermen when the pilchard reserves dried up. Inspired by the magical light, wild landscapes and bohemian lifestyle, the likes of Barbara Hepworth, Bernard Leach, Terry Frost and Peter Lanyon laid their roots here. “I have gained very great inspiration from Cornish land- and sea-scape,

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the horizontal line of the sea and the quality of light and colour,” said Hepworth in 1946. Testimony to the town’s immense art legacy are the big-names of the Tate St Ives (closed for major renovations until March 2017), the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden and the Leach Pottery. But don’t miss out on the littering of lesser-known galleries and studios, such as Back Road Artworks in the Downalong area, where you can meet a community of artists and makers creating multi-media artwork. If you want to get in touch with your own creative side, sign up for a ‘sketch and stroll’ with the St Ives School of Painting, join in all sorts of art and craft activities at the Barnoon Workshop, or learn to throw a pot at the Leach Pottery.

Once you’ve seen St Ives and its surrounds, take a short hop across the wild scenery of Penwith to the south coast, where the creative hubs of Penzance and Newlyn snatch a well-earned beam of the artistic spotlight. On the back of the famous Newlyn School art colony of the 1880s, and later, the Forbes School of Painting, the Newlyn School of Art was founded here in 2011, and provides painting, sculpture and drawing courses under the tutelage of over thirty of Cornwall’s most respected artists. You can witness an extensive exhibition of original Newlyn School art at Penlee House Gallery and Museum in Penzance, while the more modern Newlyn Art Gallery and The Exchange feature ambitious contemporary projects by today’s local artists.


While these hotspots will introduce you to some of the region’s most notable artists and venues, the allure of the county’s art scene also lies in the smaller galleries in more remote locations, and the wave of independent designer-makers inspired by the landscapes. Make a pit stop at the Jackson Foundation Gallery in the old mining village of St Just, where exhibitions by resident artist Kurt Jackson document the seasons and scenery of Cornwall through painting and sculpture. Also make sure you seek out the picturesque Lamorna Cove, where many Post-impressionists gravitated in the early 20th century. Stained-glass artist Dreya Wharry is just one of Cornwall’s many independent artists

The most obvious destination to get to the heart of the art scene is St Ives, where artists have flocked since the 1930s

drawing on Cornwall’s natural environment to create unique works of art that are sold in boutique galleries such as The Picture House in Padstow and the Create Gallery at Bedruthan Hotel, Mawgan Porth. With a huge proliferation of art festivals and craft fairs cropping up across the county, you don’t have to hunt high and low to unearth – and commission – artists like Wharry. One of the biggest art events is undoubtedly the nine-day Open Studios in May, when hundreds of artists across the county throw open the doors to their unusual workspaces, from historic chapels to coastal cottages. Follow the iconic ‘O’ signs scattered across Cornwall to venues where you can meet the creators, sign up for >> p48




workshops and get your hands on unique sculptures, glasswork, ceramics, paintings and textiles. Another celebration to be flagged on any art lovers’ calendar is the St Ives September Festival – an amalgamation of theatre productions, art exhibitions, literary events and live music, celebrating the region’s diverse creative bounty. Falmouth’s three-day Arts Alive festival brings the spotlight to the South Coast art community in June, bringing together the art, theatre and music that underpin the creative culture of this harbour town. Stroll through Falmouth in any season to discover a string of galleries and creative enterprises: the historic venue of The Poly shows classic and contemporary films and exhibitions, while the prestigious Falmouth Art Gallery grants free entry to collections by major British artists including Victorian painters, British Impressionists and leading maritime artists. Home of one of the UK’s leading creative universities (which is its own cultural microcosm of multi-media arts hosting music nights and literati gatherings) it’s little wonder that Falmouth has also become so popular on the art and literary scene. Make a beeline for Beerwolf Books if you want to browse wall-to-wall books, meet book- and beer-loving folk, listen to bands, and perhaps bump into the town’s resident authors such as Emily Barr. And pop into the authentic Falmouth Booksellers for regular talks and signings by local writers. However, Cornwall’s most famous literary connections should arguably be attributed to Fowey, once home to the region’s bestknown author, Daphne du Maurier. The annual Fowey Festival of Arts and Literature, in May, was launched in honour of du Maurier and her legacy is still very much at the core of this celebration of words, art and music. However, you don’t have to time your visit with the festival to explore the Fowey Estuary, climb to the daymark atop Gribbin Head and admire the historic Menabilly Estate that inspired her work. Du Maurier wasn’t the only author penning Fowey and its surrounds into her novels; hop on a river cruise from Fowey to Lerryn and you’ll be messing around in the scenery that inspired Ratty and Mole’s boat trip in Kenneth Grahame’s Wind in the Willows. Much of the Atlantic-lashed north coast of Cornwall has also stirred the imaginations of writers over the decades. Visit the picturesque harbour village of Boscastle, where Thomas Hardy fell in love with his first wife, or climb the grassy knoll of Brea Hill from Daymer Bay to soak up the scenery that inspired the late


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If you don’t catch one of the seasonal performances, it’s still worth a visit to check out the remarkable setting and sub-tropical gardens Poet Laureate, John Betjeman, taking the diversion to St Enodoc Church where he is now buried. Between the two is pretty Port Isaac, well known as the fictional Port Wenn in Doc Martin. As you make your way down the north coast from the Padstow area all the way to Porthgwarra, most of the coastal nooks and crannies – as well as the rolling expanse of Bodmin Moor – have been featured on the BBC hit, Poldark. Films and TV series aren’t the only performances in which Cornwall’s scenery plays such a vital role: this is a county that boasts an exceptional variety of unique, outdoor theatre settings. Best known on the international stage is the Minack Theatre, an amphitheatre carved into the cliffs at Porthcurno. The life’s work of Rowena Cade, the Minack opened in 1932 with a production of Shakespeare’s The Tempest, and at least one Shakespeare classic features in the diverse programme of plays and music in which the Cornish weather, the spectacular ocean backdrop, and sometimes even passing

dolphins, play their part. If you don’t catch one of the seasonal performances (April until October), it’s still worth a visit to check out the remarkable setting and sub-tropical terraced gardens. Despite the unpredictable Cornish weather, open-air theatre has become a huge phenomenon here – a result of both the proliferation of talented performing arts organisations and the incredible, crowdpulling venues. The innovative Miracle Theatre Company have been putting on open-air theatre shows for over 35 years, with an ever-growing programme of venues from historic houses such as Pencarrow and Lanhydrock, to Trebah, Heligan and Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens. More recently the award-winning Rogue Theatre has made an indelible mark on the scene, with magical, interactive theatre productions in the enchanting Tehidy Woods. From the Wild Woodland Summer Ball to the spooky Dead of the Night Dance, there are shows for all ages. One of Cornwall’s most notable theatre

companies is Kneehigh, which started out as a community project in 1980 and has evolved into one of Britain’s most celebrated groups. For a sensory theatrical experience make sure you visit their nomadic Asylum high-top, which pops up in a different field each year to host a magical series of plays – often inspired by Cornwall. You don’t have to take a punt on the Cornish weather to catch the best of the region’s performing arts. Wherever you’re staying you won’t be far from one of the county’s glam indoor venues showing theatre and live music. Catch regular music, dance and theatre productions at the Acorn Centre in Penzance, watch international headliners at the Eden Sessions, enjoy world-class musicals and rock concerts at the Hall For Cornwall in Truro, or take a pew in the city’s awe-inspiring cathedral for a classical concert or festive carols. In a county simply packed with art and cultural events and attractions, the endless list of what’s on – and where – can be simply mind-boggling. For a fast-track guide to what’s happening during your holiday, see the Cornwall 365 website. ❑


The gallery, formerly a pilchard-packing factory, includes artist’s studios, sculpture area and coffee bar. The Society was founded in 1949 by Barbara Hepworth and Ben Nicholson amongst others. This association with so many influential artists has given the Penwith Society a unique place in British history. Well worth a visit.

Back Road West | St Ives | TR26 1NL | 01736 795579



10 REASONS TO LOVE THIS REGION! There are dozens of reasons to love it here â&#x20AC;&#x201C; check out a few of our favourites


{01} Beach Life While Cornwall isn’t all about beach life and bucket-and-spade days, its 300-plus beaches are still its biggest draw. From surf-lashed sands to secret coves, the county is home to some of the finest beaches in the UK – in fact, St Ives Bay is ranked one of the best in the world.


{02} Chic fishing villages When Cornwall’s fishing fleets declined in the 19th century a new wave of holidaymakers made a beeline for Cornwall’s picturesque fishing villages. Now the likes of St Ives, St Mawes and Mousehole have been transformed into stylish seaside destinations that still retain a hint of the traditional fishing villages they once were.

{03} Gastronomic bounty Whether you’re into fine dining or foraging, Cornwall is a gastronomes hotspot where talented chefs serve up lip-smacking ingredients grown, reared and plucked from the coast and countryside. Staples include ice cream made from Jersey cows grazing by the ocean, and seafood so fresh it goes straight from rod to pan.

{04} Maritime heritage Who can resist the mystique of smugglers, shipwrecks and seafaring legends? Uncover the county’s maritime past at big-name attractions such as the National Maritime Museum Cornwall and at the Lizard Lighthouse

Heritage Centre, seek out smugglers’ caves and shipwrecks, or clap eyes on smuggling artefacts at the Jamaica Inn museum.

{05} Marine life From seals and seabirds to sharks and sunfish, Cornwall’s waters are teeming with an incredible array of marine life. Search for starfish and spider crabs on rock-pooling rambles, go snorkelling or surfing with playful seals and dolphins, or watch gannets and terns dive beneath the waves to catch fish.

{06} Beach parties From rock bands on the beach to full-throttle festivals, Cornwall’s calendar is jam-packed with music events where you can dance with your feet in the sand. Watch the sunset over the sea and get down to international headliner acts at the Electric Beach Festival, Tunes in the Dunes, the Lusty Glaze Sundowner Sessions and the epic Boardmasters Festival.

{07} Poldark Tune into the BBC series Poldark and you’ll be as swept away by the staggering coastal scenery as you will be by the fate of the characters. From the smugglers’ coves to the cliff-top mining landscapes and wild moorland, Poldark has brought the beauty of Cornwall to our TV screens.

{08} Water sports Beach life isn’t all about surfing – in fact mastering the art of wave riding isn’t as easy as it looks. If you want a fast-track ocean adventure try hand-planing (body-surfing with a mini surfboard strapped to your hand), stand-up paddleboarding or coasteering (swimming, scrambling and cliff jumping your way around the coastline).

{09} Sub-tropical gardens Aside from the mega-star Eden Project, Cornwall is home to an abundance of garden wonderlands thriving with sub-tropical species gathered by the globetrotting plant hunters of the 19th century. Picnic in carpets of bluebells, tunnel through bamboo jungles, take shelter under giant gunnera or play hide-and-seek in magical woodland.

{10} The Literary landscape As well as Cornwall’s best-loved author, Daphne du Maurier, countless writers have penned the county’s natural beauty into their tomes. Dylan Thomas dubbed Mousehole ‘the prettiest village in England’; Thomas Hardy fell in love with his first wife in Boscastle; DH Lawrence took up residence in Zennor; Kenneth Grahame took inspiration from the River Fowey, and Virginia Woolf immortalised Godrevy lighthouse. ❑




WELCOME TO THE NIGHT! From its swanky cocktail bars to full-throttle festivals, Cornwall knows how to throw an après beach party



hether you’ve been stomping along the coast path, getting saltwater in your hair or taking a spin around cultural attractions, there are plenty of ways to wind down after a day in Cornwall. Sip a cocktail and watch the sunset over the sea, listen to beats by the beach, cast off in a party boat or hunker by the log fire in a cosy inn. In a county surrounded by ocean, there are plenty of places to enjoy a tipple while watching the sun go down over the sea. Arguably the coolest of these is the legendary Blue Bar in Porthtowan, where rolling surf and cracking sunsets are the backdrop to drinking, dining, live music and comedy nights. Also vying for the honour of Cornwall’s best beach bar is The Watering Hole, where you can chill out surfside for the sunset, fight the seagulls for your fish and chips, then dance until the early hours to top British bands and DJs. If you prefer a traditional pub setting for a sundowner, take a seat on the terrace or warm your cockles by the fire at the Lewinnick Lodge. This revamped 18th century cottage has posed as a smugglers’ den and a lobster hold, and is a sublime spot to see the sunset over the swarms of surfers on Fistral Beach. More off the beaten track is The Port William in Trebarwith Strand (near Port Isaac), where you can sip local ales while looking out to the rugged

coastline pounded by Atlantic swell. Newquay is well endowed with lively sundowner bars, one of the most popular being the buzzing Chy Bar where you can sip cocktails and watch the sky turn pink, before the ambience ramps up and neighbouring Koola club spins dance music into the early hours. The newest-comer on Newquay’s cocktail scene is Tom Thumb, a hip and happening speak easy with expert mixologists serving premium cocktails and holding master-classes and tasting sessions. Head a few miles out of town and you can well and truly relax in the stylish cocktail bar at The Scarlet in Mawgan Porth, where non-residents are welcome to sip mojitos and martinis on the sea-view decking.

Although you don’t get the breathtaking sunset on the south coast, there are plenty of cool hangouts where you can still enjoy beach views: Lounge on the decking at the Gylly Beach Café in Falmouth, where there are also regular music nights with tunes spilling out onto the sand. At the Godolphin Arms in Marazion you can sip fine wines and local lagers while you drool over Mounts Bay and St Michael’s Mount, and since the addition of a huge glass and zinc extension you don’t have to rely on blue skies to soak up the scenery. Skip along the south coast to surfy Praa Sands and follow the footprints from the beach into the trendy Sand Bar, where you can clap eyes on jaw-dropping views >> p54




Headliners such as Rudimental, The Darkness, De La Soul, Snoop Dogg and Reef have rocked the main stage at this three-day extravaganza

from the decking or through the long-drop windows. For music fans who want to dance with their toes in the sand, there is nowhere like Cornwall for its diversity of beachside beats and full-throttle festivals with international headliners. Lusty Glaze, on the outskirts of Newquay, hosts a series of Sundowner Sessions throughout summer where you can catch big names such as Ben Howard, Guy Garvey and Morcheeba, while soaking up the beautiful beach vibes. Come winter the live music heads inside Lusty’s beach bar for cosy woodburner sessions featuring some of Cornwall’s muchloved acoustic acts. The Eden Sessions, at the world-famous Eden Project, are another annual highlight, attracting international superstars like Lionel Richie, Ellie Goulding and Motorhead. If it’s big name acts and beachside action you’re seeking, the main event in Cornwall’s festival calendar is Boardmasters – Europe’s biggest surf, skate and music festival. After a day of world-class competition in the waves, headliners such as Rudimental, The Darkness, De La Soul, Snoop Dogg and Reef have rocked the main stage at this three-day extravaganza. A smaller,


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newer version of this surfy fest is Perranporth’s Tunes in the Dunes, where Donovan Frankenreiter and Status Quo have taken the stage. If you want to tap your toes to electro-style tunes, make tracks to Fistral Beach for live performances at the Electric Beach Festival, before retreating to the lively after-parties that take over Newquay’s hottest venues. Not all festivals are focused on partying all night – there are plenty of unique events that twist family-friendly entertainment into the programme. Perhaps the most diverse is the Port Eliot Festival – a quirky, fun and creative gathering on the banks of the Tamar, where you can rub shoulders with literary stars, rock stars and foodie wizards, enjoy outdoor cinema, go wild swimming or let your hair down and dance in the high tops. The Rock Oyster Festival lures foodies and music fans to a summer party beside the Camel Estuary, while the Little Orchard Cyder And Music Festival is not only big on cider and sea shanties, but also hosts some of the best music bands emerging in the UK. Of course, after an active day at the beach or visiting Cornwall’s cultural

gems, you might prefer to give the party life a miss and hunker down by the fire in a cosy inn with a pint of local ale for company. Enveloped in the romantic landscape of the Helford Passage, the 300 year-old Ferryboat Inn is one of the most atmospheric waterside pubs to sip locally-brewed beers, dine on farm-to-fork food and watch the boats putter to and fro on the estuary. Equally alluring is the Pandora Inn, tucked away on Restronguet Creek along the River Fal, where you can arrive by boat or road and take a seat on the pontoon – crabbing line in one hand, pint in the other – or find a cosy nook inside the historic 13th century inn and peek out at the view. If you like a drinking hole with a bit of history, there are plenty in Cornwall to choose from. The Old Inn & Restaurant in St Breward is Cornwall’s highest inn and has been a meeting place for travellers crossing Bodmin Moor since the 11th century, when it provided shelter for monks building the neighbouring church. The 12th century Victoria Inn, in Perranuthnoe, is one of the oldest pubs in the county, where you can kick back by the log fire or tuck into awardwinning food cooked by a Raymond-Blanc trained chef. Another of Cornwall’s oldest pubs is the iconic Sloop Inn in St Ives, which >> p57


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opened its doors in 1312. Take a seat on one of the benches spilling out to the harbour, or find a pew under the low beams and sip one of the cask ales. Hike 10 kilometres along the South West Coast Path and you’ll deserve a pint of real ale under the low granite ceilings at the Tinners Arms in Zennor – a place that DH Lawrence once called home and an idyllic 13th century inn far from the trappings of modern life. One of the oldest – and most atmospheric – pubs in maritime Falmouth is the quayside Chainlocker, where you could well end up singing sea shanties with the town’s sailors and fishermen. The Old Success Inn, nudging the pearly sands of Sennen Cove, harks back to the 17th century when fishermen came here to share the profits from their catch. Amidst the sepia prints and nautical memorabilia, these days’ it’s coast path hikers, beach goers, dog walkers and surfers that huddle around the bar to fuel up on hearty pub food and St Austell Brewery beers.


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Nudging the pearly sands of Sennen Cove, it harks back to the 17th century when fishermen came here to share the profits from their catch

Like much of Cornwall, many of the pubs have had a makeover to meet the demands of modern-day tourists. However, a lick of contemporary style hasn’t detracted from the traditional core of The Driftwood Spars in Trevaunance Cove, where exposed beams, log fires and an onsite microbrewery make this one of the most popular places to eat and

drink in St Agnes. Similarly, the Queen’s Hotel in St Ives transformed itself from a local boozer to a stylish gastro pub, now bedecked in Cornish art, vintage furniture and comfy sofas, and serving cask ales and fine wines alongside gourmet food sourced from Cornwall’s farms and fishermen. Perhaps the finest example of a drinking den that marries the rustic Cornish lifestyle, chic style and sheer good taste is the Gurnard’s Head, hidden off the beaten track between St Ives and Land’s End. Whether you stomp straight off the coast path with a dog in tow, or arrive in convoy with family and friends, you’ll feel at home in this friendly inn on the cliffs of West Cornwall. You’ll find Cornish ales on tap, plenty of unusual wines and an upmarket menu packed with fish, game and other produce plucked from the surrounding coast and countryside. You can even stay over and rest your head if you drink too much to get home from the ends-of-theearth location. q






An immense and sporting playground, Cornwall boasts diverse terrain to try all sorts of activities from surfing to cycling

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region hemmed in by the ocean, it’s little surprise that water sports hog the activity limelight. Feel the briny wind in your sails when you launch a dinghy from Mylor or Falmouth, honing your nautical skills in the same place where Olympic gold medallist Ben Ainslie cut his teeth and Dame Ellen MacArthur completed her solo round-the-world expedition. If you’d prefer to explore the coastline under paddle power, why not hire a kayak and potter up the creeks of the


Hone your nautical skills in the same place where Dame Ellen MacArthur completed her roundthe-world expedition

River Fal or the Helford, or cast off into the iridescent waters of St Ives Bay? Launch from Carbis Bay on a six-man Hawaiian outrigger canoe, from which you can spot fish, seals and sometimes even basking sharks through the underwater viewers. One of the county’s most historic water sports is gig rowing, which was handed down by 19th century oarsmen who rowed their boats out to incoming ships to compete for the job of piloting them into harbour. You can watch the traditional pilot gig boats being raced >> p61



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<< p58 in Newquay harbour most Sunday mornings between April and September, or catch the County Gig Championships on the first weekend in September. In more recent years it’s surfing that’s taken over as the county’s most popular ocean sport, with Fistral Beach putting Newquay on the map as the UK’s surfing capital. Travelling surfers come from all over the globe to pull onto the perfect peaks of this sandybottomed break, and there are plenty of surf schools that will coax even the most novice surfers into wave masters. If you prefer to ride the waves without having to get to your feet, try hand planing – a turbo-charged version of bodysurfing using just fins and a hand-sized surfboard strapped to your palm. It’s quick to learn, and the experts at Watergate Bay’s Extreme Academy will have you zooming shoreward on your belly within minutes. The latest craze to hit the water sports scene is stand-up paddleboarding, which is much easier to get to grips with than surfing and can be enjoyed with or without waves. Get your balance on the flat water of

Newquay’s River Gannel or Falmouth’s Gyllyngvase Beach, and once you’ve flexed your core muscles you can even try a SUP yoga class. Wild swimming, kite surfing, coasteering, diving – the list of water sports on offer in Cornwall is endless. But step back onto the shore and there are plenty of land-based activities, too. The rugged territory of West Cornwall beckons adventurous souls to rock-climb world-class routes such as Bosigran’s Commando Ridge, but you don’t have to be a rock-climbing expert to enjoy the indoor walls at the new Clip ‘n’ Climb centre at Cornwall Services in Victoria. Cyclists can enjoy white-knuckle downhill tracks or family-friendly woodland trails at Lanhydrock and Cardinham, or opt for the easy-going territory of the Camel Trail or the Mineral Tramways Coast-to-Coast routes. If you want to don your walking boots, you’ll be spoilt for choice from the diverse terrain of the South West Coast Path to the peaks of Bodmin Moor; or perhaps you’d prefer to see if you can score a birdie on some of the most scenic golf courses in Britain? q

If you want to don your walking boots, you’ll be spoilt for choice from the diverse terrain of the South West Coast Path to the peaks of Bodmin Moor



GETTING HERE AND GETTING AROUND! Getting to, and around, this region couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be easier

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By car Despite being the south-westerly tip of mainland Britain, Cornwall is easy to reach by car – and is less than five hours’ drive from London. The county’s main road is the A30; met by the M5 at Exeter and now dual carriageway almost the entire length of the county. If you’re travelling to south east Cornwall, take the A38 from Exeter instead, arriving via Plymouth and Saltash. For a more a scenic route along Cornwall’s North Coast, take the A39 – accessible from junction 27 on the M5, or via the A395 between Launceston and Camelford. During peak times the routes into

Cornwall can become extremely congested, so it’s best to travel overnight or early in the morning.

By public transport With direct trains from London, Bristol, Bath and Exeter, getting to Cornwall by train couldn’t be easier. The main railway line to Penzance links to a network of branch lines: Hop off at Liskeard to chug along a wooded valley to Looe; at Par to access Newquay’s surf beaches; Truro to reach maritime Falmouth, and St Erth for the scenic coastal railway to St Ives. For train information and timetables contact Great Western Railway. Cornwall can also be reached from the

UK’s major cities by a number of bus and coach companies, including National Express and Megabus. Travelling time by coach is around 7-8 hours from London/ Birmingham to Truro.

By air Fly into Newquay Airport on a growing network of flights from London, Ireland, Germany, Spain and Portugal. Onward travel is hassle-free with onsite car hire facilities, an airport-based taxi firm and links to public transport. The airport also offers year-round connections to the Isles of Scilly. For flight routes and timetables checkout www.cornwall >> p65



A road B road Railway and station City / Town Airport Administrative boundary 0



4 4

6 8

8 12


12 Miles


20 Kilometres


Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2017

Kilkhampton A39






Week St Mary

Middle Crackington B3263



Tintagel Head


B3266 A39

Start Point

Delabole Port Isaac Pentire Point

Trevose Head

Polzeath Trevone PADSTOW A389



Indian Queens Goonhavern

Perranporth St Agnes


Godrevy Island

Connor Downs

ST IVES Gurnard’s Head B3306





Land’s End






PENZANCE Mousehole




St Mawes Nancegollan FALMOUTH Constantine Godolphin Cross A394 Mawnan Smith HELSTON


M o u n t ’ s B a y




Mawgan St Keverne

A3083 B3293


Manacle Point


Mullion Cove

Black Head

Lizard Lizard Point


Malpas A3078

Troon Hayle

St Just



Carbis Bay


Mevagissey Gorran Haven Dodman Point






FOWEY Polruan




Gribbin Head







Treburley Bray Shop Kelly Bray

B3254 A38(T)



Upton Cross

Bodmin Moor






St Lawrence Tregonetha A30(T) St Columb Major A391 Bugle Roche

















St Endellion



Ligger or Perran Bay

Camelford St Teath


St Merryn Porthcothan

Kelsey Head



Widegates B3247

LOOE Polperro

Looe Island



Whitsand Bay

Millbrook Rame Head



By car

The easiest way to explore the nooks and crannies of Cornwall is by car. There are car hire outlets countywide – the biggest selection based at Newquay Airport and in Truro. The A30 links the entire length of Cornwall from Launceston to Land’s End, but it’s worth exploring via some of the coastal roads such as the A39 (dubbed the Atlantic Highway). If you want to share lifts to reduce traffic congestion and travel costs, check out Carshare Cornwall.


By public transport Cornwall’s towns, villages and visitor attractions are linked by an extensive network of buses, most of which are run by First Devon and Cornwall, and Western Greyhound. A few smaller operators and community buses serve specific areas such as West Penwith. As well as the main train line to Penzance, there are several railway branch lines to Cornwall’s coastal towns including Looe, Falmouth, Newquay and St Ives. For timetables, maps and information check out or

Alternative means If you’re planning to visit Truro, Padstow, St Ives, Falmouth or Looe, ease your journey by using the Park and Ride schemes. Park at Lelant Saltings to enjoy a scenic rail journey to St Ives, or leave the car in Penryn and float to Falmouth on the passenger ferry. The county’s most extensive ferry network is Fal River Ferries, which links a number of coastal towns, villages and attractions from Truro and Falmouth to the Roseland Peninsula. A Fal Mussel Card offers unlimited travel on all the services. Other regular passenger ferries include crossings from Padstow to Rock; Fowey to Polruan ferry; Mevagissey to Fowey; Calstock to Cotehele, and Penzance to the Isles of Scilly. If you prefer to explore on two wheels, hit The Mineral Tramways cycle trails, which include the coast-to-coast route between Portreath and Devoran. Even more popular with cyclists is the Camel Trail, following 18 miles of disused railway from Padstow to Bodmin. The best way to experience the coastal scenery is on foot along over 250 miles of South West Coast Path, which offers sections to suit all levels of walkers. Or why not cross the county on the 27-mile ancient pilgrims’ route of The Saints Way? ❑

The A30 links the entire length of Cornwall from Launceston to Land’s End, but it’s worth exploring via some of the coastal roads such as the A39




LET’S EXPLORE! Although you’ll never run out of things to do here, it’s also a great base for exploring the surrounding region



hile Cornwall might seem out on limb from the rest of the UK – and crammed with so much beauty and bounty that you won’t want to escape its embrace – it’s still a divine spot to break out to some other fascinating destinations. Whether you’ve got a day or a week to spare, you can hop on the Scillonian ferry from Penzance, or board the Skybus from Newquay, to the Isles of Scilly. Just 28 miles from the mainland, this timeless, sub-tropical archipelago is as unique and separate as an entirely different country, with a milder climate and cool, emerald seas that lick white-sand beaches and wave-hewn coastlines. The 150 islands and islets, only five of which are inhabited, are a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and home to an abundance of rare flora and wildlife. Cormorants, storm petrels and oystercatchers dance above the waves, warblers and whimbrels pass through on their southerly migrations and the ocean is home to a huge population of

Atlantic grey seals as well as dolphins and basking sharks. In a day you can explore the diverse landscapes of the main island of St Mary’s – from heathland smattered with ancient archaeology wonders to smugglers’ coves fit for Famous Five adventures. If you’ve got any longer, ferry hop to the off islands to discover the world-famous Tresco Abbey Gardens, pad barefoot along the pristine beaches of St Martins or eat homemade ice cream at Troytown Farm on St Agnes. As a complete contrast to island life, take a trip just over the border of Cornwall to the cosmopolitan city of Plymouth, steeped in maritime culture and buzzing with creative energy. Gen up on the area’s naval history on Plymouth Hoe and climb the 93 steps to watch ships come and go from the top of Smeaton’s Tower. This famous lighthouse tower was dismantled and moved from Eddystone Rocks and is now one of the South West’s most iconic

landmarks. While the city is well endowed with maritime history, you can dip into the underwater world at the National Marine Aquarium, the UK’s biggest aquarium. In addition to its nautical charms, Plymouth boasts a diverse platter of art and culture including the City Museum and Art Gallery, featuring exhibitions of world cultures and maritime history alongside classic and contemporary art. While this eminent attraction is temporarily closed to be transformed into a ground-breaking, multi-million pound venture, make a beeline for the Peninsula Arts Gallery, the centre for contemporary art and culture that’s housed in Plymouth University. Once you’ve delved into Plymouth’s heritage, arts and shopping, you’ll have no doubt worked up an appetite. Straddling the foodie destinations of Devon and Cornwall it’s no surprise that the gourmet offerings are rich, with restaurants led by some of the UK’s top chefs including the Tanner brothers, Gary Rhodes, Mitch Tonks and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. ❑




IF YOU’RE PLANNING TO STAY LONGER… The allure of Cornwall will have you begging for more – which is why more people are relocating and buying second homes here


t’s no secret that Cornwall is one of the most popular places in the country to buy a second home. Since the advent of super-fast broadband and the freedom to work remotely, plenty of folk have gone the whole hog and swapped their city homes for a permanent dwelling in this land of sandy beaches, vibrant maritime towns and stylish coastal living. And why not, when you can keep in touch with the fast-paced world and enjoy a successful career while keeping your feet firmly by the beach? No longer out on a limb and requiring hours of travel to reach, Cornwall is a cinch to get to by rail, road and air. Hop on a train from Paddington, fly into the heart of Newquay from London or whizz down the widened highway of the A30: whether you want to come down for a weekend break or

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need to swap your surfboard for an upcountry board meeting, getting to and from Cornwall has never been smoother or faster. The good news is, that while the economy and the property market are somewhat unpredictable, the property forecast in Cornwall is going from strength to strength. Whether you are looking for a holiday property or a family home, a woodland cottage or a coastal apartment, a millionaire mansion or a budget townhouse, the range of properties up for grabs is immense. Demand for holiday accommodation is burgeoning, with terrorism threats and our departure from the EU propelling more and more visitors to swap the Costas for Cornwall. There’s been a boom in selfcatering staycations across the country, with Cornwall repeatedly topping the list of the

UK’s best holiday destinations. By all means checkout the seaside hotspots of St Ives, St Mawes and Padstow, but you’ll get more for your money in up-and-coming Hayle, Wadebridge or Newquay, all of which boast the premium Cornish qualities of beaches, foodie credentials and an enviable maritime lifestyle within a pebble’s throw of the more expensive locations. If you’re looking for a property to run as a holiday let, for the best return you want to ensure you choose something with a unique selling point, within easy access of popular attractions and the coast – after all, the beach is still Cornwall’s biggest pulling point. You also need to factor the higher rates of stamp duty for second homes and buy-to-let properties into your budget. But with banks failing to offer investors much in the way of


There’s been a boom in selfcatering staycations across the country, with Cornwall repeatedly topping the list of the UK’s best holiday destinations

satisfactory returns, buying an income-generating holiday home might be a good alternative. Finding your dream home couldn’t be easier, with a proliferation of expert companies such as Unique Home Stays and Cornish Gems, offering a service to seek out your luxury second home, and run all aspects of it – from the maintenance to fullymanaged holiday lettings – in your absence. Which makes owning a second home hassle-free. Whether you fancy a pad for the occasional beach break or to swap your life for a permanent beach break, this is the optimum time to invest in Cornwall. ❑

Perched on the crest of the rolling hills, in glorious rural Cornwall, sits Higher Trewithen Holiday Cottages. Once a working farm, Higher Trewithen now boasts a collection of 7 holiday cottages and apartments, sleeping between 2 to 8 people. With around 3 acres of paddocks, gardens and wooded walks Higher Trewithen offers ample space for families looking to roam the green and pleasant pastures with their four legged family members. A pleasant 15 minute walk leads to the picturesque village of Stithians which benefits from a local pub, a small village shop and Post Office and the late medieval elegance of St Stythians Church. Being only 9 miles from either coast, Higher Trewithen is ideally situated for holiday makers wishing to explore all of Cornwall's attractions! | 01209 860863 | 07517 878618 | 07514 916167




WE’RE OPEN FOR BUSINESS! Cornwall is a county which increasingly works for everyone



ave you ever heard of the word ‘Arbejdsglæde’? It’s a Danish word that basically translates to ‘work joy’. Which, unless you are doing the job of your dreams in perfect harmony with an enviable lifestyle, aren’t often two words that are put together. However, since the advent of super-fast broadband and the flexing of the career landscape to meet the needs of remote working, entrepreneurial spirit and independent businesses, Arbejdsglæde is an entirely possible concept when you live and work in Cornwall. With the help of modern technology, Cornwall has shed the nine-to-five work day and made business mould around beach life. Whether you’re an interior designer, a B&B owner or a builder, you can slip from your wetsuit and your business suit according to the tides and work demands. With businesses in Penryn working with NASA and Hollywood, it’s evident that Cornwall’s location isn’t preventing local enterprises having an impact on the global stage. The growth of Falmouth University has undoubtedly contributed to the intellectual

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capital of the county. Over £100 million in funding has transformed the campus into one of the UK’s leading creative hubs, with a groundbreaking Innovation Centre that is focused on sustainable design and digital economies. Gylly Computer Services is just one of over 40 businesses that have thrived as a result of relocating to the business acceleration centre. In two years the company has doubled in size and created more high-value jobs that have boosted the local economy. In a place where the natural environment is so entwined with the lifestyle, it’s little wonder that the renewables industry is booming in Cornwall. The Wave Hub and Hayle Marine Renewables Business Park aim to drive innovation in energy technology and cement the UK’s position as a global leader in the fast-growing sector of offshore renewable energy. The Wave Hub already operates the world’s largest marine energy test site 10 miles off the north coast of Cornwall. The lynchpin of the county’s

economy is still tourism – and business is booming. Cornwall is firmly established as one of the UK’s favourite holiday destinations, making boutique accommodation and well-honed hospitality in demand in every season. Whether you’re a sommelier, chef or hotelier, it’s possible to fund an enjoyable and profitable lifestyle from the increasingly moneyed stream of holidaymakers that flock here year round. If you’re not ready to sever ties to an upcountry career, it’s even possible to marry beach life and city life and have the best of both worlds. A growing number of residents in Cornwall work a four-day week in high-flying city jobs and decamp to the beach life on weekends. If you can do the bulk of your work remotely but need occasional contact with city clients, you can ditch your city base, shake the sand from your toes after a morning surf, fly to London for a lunch meeting and be back in time for a sundowner on the beach. Whatever your job or aspirations, it really is a pleasure doing business in Cornwall. q


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Welcome to Cornwall  

Unique, beautifully designed, high-quality visitor guide, which is available in leading hotel bedrooms. For those enjoying a break, or stayi...

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