Qatari Thobe - Embodying the history of fashion

FASHION

Qatari Thobe Embodying the history of fashion while representing the identity and culture of the country 92 October-December 2022 KATARA culture

There is a wide variety of clothing available in a modern country like Qatar, but the thobe is part of what may be termed ‘traditional’ or ‘national’ dress’, and as such, it is both a cultural reference and a historical signifier of notions of historical continuity, value and honour.

By Khadiza Begum

T

he term ‘culture’ with regard to national identity and history has a myriad of meanings and inferences, particularly concerning its relationship to items manufactured by the human hand, more specifically, fashion.

The way people dress - our various types and styles of clothes - help to shape, signify and define various aspects of cultural identities worldwide and the thobe is no exception.

KATARA culture October-December 2022 93

FASHION

The way people dress - our various types and styles of clothes - help to shape, signify and define various aspects of cultural identities worldwide and the thobe is no exception.

There is a wide variety of clothing available in a modern country like Qatar, but the thobe is part of what may be termed ‘traditional’ or ‘national’ dress’, and as such, it is both a cultural reference and a historical signifier of notions of historical continuity, value and honour. This is interesting, as it is also still the dress of choice across all age demographics in Qatar, particularly among men, signifying modesty and cleanliness.

Commenting upon the importance of national dress, Marwan Aljalham, a Qatari who works with the Qatar Civil Aviation Authority, says: “It’s very important as it’s the national code of dress for the country, also, it is part of our folklore from our grandparents.”

He adds: “You might be wondering; “why do Qataris wear a thobe?” In the past, the primary reason was that it was 94 October-December 2022 KATARA culture

You might be wondering; “why do Qataris wear a thobe?” In the past, the primary reason was that it was a good way to guard your body against extreme heat. Another reason is that the thobe has a religious and pious connotation.

But nowadays, with air-conditioning available everywhere and with many Qataris wearing amazing casual clothes from famous brands, it is interesting that many still prefer wearing the thobe rather than casuals.

Marwan Aljalham

a good way to guard your body against extreme heat. Another reason is that the KATARA culture October-December 2022 95

FASHION

A thobe or thaw is often seen as an indication of status, and this status is amplified by the addition of a bisht, a long cloak whose design can often signify royalty, nobility, or religious affiliation.

thobe has a religious and pious connotation.

But nowadays, with air-conditioning available everywhere and with many Qataris wearing amazing casual clothes from famous brands, it is interesting that many still prefer wearing the thobe rather than casuals.”

Aljalham says: “I think that this is because the thobe has become an integral part of our culture and a symbol of pride for Qataris and we admire the thobe for its historical connection with Muslims and the Islamic faith.”

Traditional dress for men The thobe, extending down to the ankles and almost always white or off-white in colour, is worn by men. They also often don the gutra, a square piece of cloth like a scarf, worn as a headdress, harking back to the Bedouins who wore them to protect their eyes, heads and faces against high winds or sandstorms. The gutra is anchored in place by a black rope band known as an agal.

A thobe or thaw is often seen as an 96 October-December 2022 KATARA culture

indication of status, and this status is amplified by the addition of a bisht, a long cloak whose design can often signify royalty, nobility, or religious affiliation.

Tailoring the national attire While readymade thobes are available in different supermarkets and souqs, some people also acquire new thobes made to measure by tailoring shops. Souq Waqif is a popular destination for those looking to stitch their national dress, with tailors there providing customers with a wide range of varieties in terms of fabrics, thus appealing to different tastes.

The prices of thobes for adults range from QR50 to QR70 for regular fabric and this may go up to QR150 or even more for special varieties and brands.

Tailors at the market are generally welcoming and also flexible when it comes to bargaining over prices.

In the alleyways of Souq Waqif amid the chattering families out for a stroll or shopping, Indian and Bangladeshi tailors KATARA culture October-December 2022 97

FASHION

tend to the business of dressing Qatari men in their everyday best.

Nageshawar Gupta, one such Indian tailor who works in the Alhawaj Center For National Dress talks to Culture magazine while sitting comfortably on the floor, busy sewing by hand the final stitches of a bisht.

With a smile on his face, Gupta says: “We specialise in making the Qatari national dress and our business in Souq Waqif has been established for over 70 years.

Customers can customise their national dress of choice and they have the option to choose from a variety of fabrics, colours, and styles while placing their tailoring order.”

He mentions that Qatari males are their main customers and they are in great demand throughout the year. However, he notes an increase in demand ahead of some special occasions.

As his hands move quickly, making rapid progress with the garment he is sewing, he states: “A bisht is the traditional Arabian long cloak that men wear over their thobes. We thread embroidery to enhance the beauty of the bisht, creating a different and elegant appearance. The thread used is called zari and black bishts with gold zari are the most popular combination asked for. This golden zari is imported from India and Germany, with the main material for the bisht coming from Saudi Arabia.”

The thobe, with its accompanying items of clothing and embellishments, is a direct link to the historical past and a popular choice for exactly that reason. It forges a strong link between the identity of the individual in question and Qatari culture and tradition. In short, it is a visible articulation of times gone by and the maintenance of tradition into the future.

98 October-December 2022 KATARA culture

The thobe, with its accompanying items of clothing and embellishments, is a direct link to the historical past and a popular choice for exactly that reason.

It forges a strong link between the identity of the individual in question and Qatari culture and tradition. In short, it is a visible articulation of times gone by and the maintenance of tradition into the future.

KATARA culture October-December 2022 99