Page 1

August 2016 Vol. XXIX No. 8


Tools for Roasting page 8


Controlled Fermentations— An Overlooked Opportunity for Flavor Development

Electronic Service Requested


Tales From Origin— Overcoming Gender Violence in Rwanda

HNCT, LLC 25525 77th Ave SW Vashon, WA 98070

Producer Profile: Terra Bella Villa Sarchi | Costa Rica

PRSRT STD U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 178 Salem, OR



$4.75 Per Issue • Complimentary to Coffee Professionals

This Month



The View

Defining Success - the Power of Connections





Tools for Roasting


Costa Rica Women Care Certified Producer: Lomas al Rio


Producer Profile: Terra Bella Villa Sarchi | Costa Rica

14 16 18

12 Producer Profile: Terra Bella Villa Sarchi | Costa Rica

Connecting The Dots

Lomas al Rio Mill | Palmares, Costa Rica

14 Tales From Origin— Overcoming Gender Violence in Rwanda

Naranjo | Terra Bella Coffee Estate

Tales From Origin

Overcoming Gender Violence in Rwanda

20 Controlled Fermentations— An Overlooked Opportunity For Flavor Development

Texas Coffee School’s Featured Café Trio Craft Coffee

Coffee Service Corner

Batch Brewing - A Coffee Service Comeback?

Controlled Fermentations


An Overlooked Opportunity For Flavor Development


Roaster's Rock

Can Coffee Save the World?




Advertiser Index

Need to update your subscription or address? Visit


Phone: 206.686.7378, see extensions below Publisher / Advertising Inquiries Kerri Goodman, ext 1

Managing Editor Libby Smith, ext 8

Ad Art & Accounting Laurie Veatch, ext 4

Copy Editor Mark Moser, ext 9

Print Design Marcus Fellbaum, ext 5

Web Design Justin Goodman, ext 6

Mailing Info Mail: HNCT, LLC, 25525 77th Ave SW Vashon, WA 98070 Phone: 206.686.7378 Fax: 866.373.0392 Web: Disclaimer


Connecting The Dots— Tools for Roasting

CoffeeTalk does not assume the responsibility for validity of claims made for advertised products and services. We reserve the right to reject any advertising. Although we support copyrights and trademarks, we generally do not include copyright and trademark symbols in our news stories and columns. CoffeeTalk considers its sources reliable and verifies as much data as possible. However, reporting inaccuracies can occur, consequently readers using this information do so at their own risk. Postmaster: Send address changes to HNCT, LLC, 25525 77th Ave SW, Vashon, WA 98070 Subscription: The cost of a subscription in the U.S. is $47.50 per year; in Canada, the cost is $72.00. Free to qualified industry professionals. Non-qualified requests may be rejected. Publisher reserves the right to limit the number of free subscriptions. For subscription inquiries, please call 206.686.7378 x1 or subscribe online at Copyright © 2015, HNCT, LLC, All Rights Reserved

4 August 2016


INTEGRATED SCALE AND TIMER The KitchenAid® Precision Press Coffee Maker has an integrated timer and scale that makes it simple to measure brew time and the precise ratio of coffee grounds to water all within the carafe to achieve a full-flavored and full-bodied French Press brew. VISIT KITCHENAID.COM/GETSOMETHINGBREWING

The View

Kerri Goodman Defining Success - the Power of Connections


olitics. YUK!

I don't know about you, but I am exhausted by this political season. HE said, SHE said, THEY said! There are innumerable positions, contradictory points of view, and far too often, empty and sometimes vicious words thrown around with little regard for integrity or respect. Whether you are democrat, republican; for unification or against; one truth is clear: everyone is entitled to an opinion. "Entitled," something we hear a lot about when discussing Millennials. No not THAT kind of "entitled." Or is it... From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: I'm entitled to my opinion is a logical fallacy in which a person discredits any opposition by claiming that they are entitled to their opinion. The statement exemplifies a red herring. Whether one has a particular entitlement or right is irrelevant to whether one's assertion is true or false. Such an assertion, however, can also be an assertion of one's own freedom or of a refusal to participate in the system of logic at hand. YUP, right or wrong in so many situations is a matter of opinion. This brings us back to the concept: each of us has a right to our own opinion. This I truly believe! NO we do not need to agree! In fact, I don't know anyone who would truly want to live in a world where everyone agreed on everything. BORING! And more than likely, a slow death to all from lack of innovation and even motivation to survive. Debate is healthy. Debate is an effective tool in learning. Participants simply need to be willing and able to LISTEN and respect the right to different ideas. BUT I still hate politics. I hate uninformed people hurting each other in their quest to be RIGHT

without regard for the right OWNED by each individual to their own opinion. Am I naive? Hell ya! BUT I have hope! Never give up hope! I have hope that people like Rocky Rhodes will prevail. Please take a moment to read his article this month: “Can Coffee Save the World?” I loved his introduction: "To a viewer of the news it would appear that the world is on fire and we are all just circling the toilet bowl. Turmoil, terror, Brexit, and the US presidential race has created uncertainty, fear, and anxiety." Doomsday? NO! We have the power to make the change, to be the difference! And it is just not that hard! Rocky goes on to tell us how WE (coffee people) can save the world. From his words... • Respect the people you do business with • Be ‘sustainable’ in all you do • Be proud of both your country AND theirs • Strive for better living conditions at all economic levels • Use quality as the precursor of price discovery • Nurture others. • A rising tide raises all ships • Trust each other • Build Communities • A hand up is always better than a hand out • LISTEN to each other So I encourage each of you to to consider his parting words... “What is interesting is that the changes come from inside each of us, in how we choose to deal with others. Coffee people tend to choose wisely. Let us be an example to the world!”



August 10-12

HotelEx Chengdu, Chengdu China

August 18-21

Roaster's Guild Retreat, Delavan WI

September 2-4

For complete and updated show information visit our online calendar: September 16-18

New York Coffee Festival, New York, NY USA

Berlin Coffee Fest, Berlin Germany

Septmber 19-23

117th Session of the ICO, London, UK

September 7-9

Coteca, Hamburg, Germay

September 21-23

International Coffee Week, Belo Horizonte, Brazil

September 13-14

Expo Vending and OCS - Latin America, Sao Paul, Brazil

September 25-26

Canadian Coffee and Tea Show, Toronto, Canada

September 15-17

CAMA Expo 2016, Victoria, BC, Canada

September 30 - October 2

Coffee Fest Anaheim 2016, Anaheim Convention Center

Sept 15-17

85th PCCA Convention, Resort at Squaw Creek, Olympic Village, Lake Tahoe, CA

October 20-22

India International Tea & Coffee Expo!, Goregaon, Mumbai

October 25-26

FSMA Training Seminar, Miami, FL

October 26-28

NCA Coffee Summit 2016, Miami, FL

August 2016

Who can

consistently deliver the perfect profile of any roast, in every brewing system…

“Our new coffee lab provides the specialized environment and equipment to ensure your roast profile comes through, precisely as you intended. ”

Andrew Gomez Specialty Coffee Black Curtis Can # Sales & Training Manager

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Brant Curtis Director of Innovation 4th Generation

Perfecting the art of brewing since 1941 W I L B U R C U R T I S C O M PA N Y, L O S A N G E L E S C A U S A | 8 0 0 - 4 2 1 - 6 1 5 0 | W I L B U R C U R T I S . C O M


We have come full circle in our development of roasting coffee. Coffee beans were bought and sold locally, often from the “general store” and roasted over the open fire or coals at home. Through the advent of the drum roaster, we saw the expansion of batch roasting, which gave rise to the option of purchasing roasted coffee beans at the general store next to the green coffee beans, giving rise to consumer convenience.

y grandparent’s kitchen stove was a beautiful old beast that I would curl up next to in the cold winter mornings of my youth. My grandfather would fill it every night with wood, chop and place the kindling, and then set his coffee percolator on the “burner” with the kindling under it, so it would be ready for him to light in the morning. I would hear the crackling of the kindling, and smell the coffee bubbling up. I was always fascinated by the clear knob handle of the percolator and how the coffee, when done, thumped inside that lid like the heartbeat of the house. Coffee is at the heart of many of my memories and is a piece of Americana. Historically speaking, roasted coffee has a much longer history than some may realize. For many, we tend to think of the birth of American espresso runs parallel with the development of the Starbucks brand. But in truth, roasted coffee and the tools used to create it, go back much further. In the Middle East, during the 15th century in the Ottoman Empire, coffee roasting tools were used in the home and held over slow-burning coals. The tool, a longhandled pan in the shape of a spoon, allowed for the slow roasting of the coffee bean. While this method worked, it only allowed for a little amount of coffee to be roasted at a time. A later variation of this appeared on the scene in the 1890s with a smaller handle and a hand crank built into the lid to stir the beans as they roasted. Somewhat larger in size, it still did not offer the ability to roast more than a little at a time. Drum roasters have an early start as well, hailing first from Cairo around the 1650s. They allowed, for the first time, a batch of coffee to be roasted over a fire and were commonly made of copper or cast iron. This format for roasting coffee caught on relatively quickly, and similar equipment appeared in the Dutch colonies, Italy and spread through Europe.

Today, purchasing roasted coffee beans is the norm, but home roasting equipment has gained in popularity as people want to test their hand at the craft of roasting from the comfort of home. Personally, I applaud those who try, but as a person not known for patience, any skills in the kitchen, or a discerning palette, I would rather leave it to the experts. Think bull…china shop. The mortar and pestle is likely the first coffee grinder, and incidentally, the only piece of “equipment” in the kitchen I feel comfortable with (smash, grind, repeat). The modern day coffee grinder’s origins, of which are still disputed, go back to either the Turks or the Persians. But one thing is clear: it was from the spice markets that the grinders for coffee beans advanced. The creation of the crank-fed containment of ground coffee, on a relatively small scale, allowed for more portability for good coffee. As coffee developed through the course of history, so did the tools used in roasting, grinding, serving, and enjoying coffee. However, when I think of the modern day pour over method, it is strikingly similar to historical methods of enjoying coffee. Maybe that is the key. While coffee has a long history in the world, at the heart, not much has really changed. It continues to drive our economies, hold our attention, and bring people together. 1. Contributing Source: By William Harrison Ukers - All About Coffee, page 617, Public Domain, 2.

Agtron Kinetic Coffee Roasting Controls

Giesen USA

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Giesen USA is the exclusive distributor of Giesen coffee roasters. Create award winning coffees with our unique pressure profiling roasting system. or (888) 814 4347

by Agtron, Inc.


When asked by a coffee roaster in the 1980's to create a roast analyzer, Agtron Inc. responded by introducing the Agtron coffee analyzers which have redefined the industry. Since then Agtron has developed innovative coffee roasting controls that allow the coffee professional an unparallelled degree of control and consistency. The result is an uncompromising cup quality with unbeatable cup consistency.

(888) 814-4347 |

August 2016

Connecting the Dots

US Roaster Corp

Texpak Inc | Scolari Engineering

US Roaster Corp offers Many Services for the Coffee Professionals . New and rebuilt Roasters from the Revelation ATR models to the robust Hand operated Millenniums hand crafted in the USA . Steel Roller Grinders! Controls for Your Equipment and Programmable Smoke abatement to solve air quality and save money.

Technologically advanced coffee roasting and grinding machinery as well as a well developed factory control program developed specifically for coffee factories. Also silos and transports. | (405) 232-1223 | (856) 988-5533

RealCup® and EcoCup Capsules TM

by Mother Parkers Tea & Coffee Inc.

For more information about the RealCup® brand and EcoCup™capsules, contact Mother Parkers at Better taste. Less waste. 1-800-387-9398. mother-parkers. comRealCupTM is a trademark of Mother Parkers Tea & Coffee, one of the largest coffee and tea manufacturers in North America.

Look for the Easy to Recycle symbol on these quality brands.

Fres-co System USA, Inc. | (215) 799-8032

Fresco Systems offers pre-made bags, customprinted rollstock, degassing valves, packaging machinery, pod equipment and service. Fres-co System USA has been the coffee industry’s packaging expert for over 30 years.

Buhler Inc. | (905) 754-8389 From green coffee intake to roasted and ground coffee, Buhler offers state-of-the-art technologies along the value chain. Your coffee creations deserve the best.

Plitek | (847) 827-6680 PLITEK provides Complete Solutions for In-Package Degassing including: One-way degassing valves for a range of packaging sizes and types, Semi automatic and high speed valve applicator systems, Testing and quality assurance systems, System design, installation, service and support

Primera Technology, Inc. | (800) 797-2772

Primera Technology is the world's leading manufacturer of specialty printing equipment including the LX-Series Color Label Printers, AP-Series Label Applicators, LP130 Laser Marking System, CX1200 Color Label Press and FX1200 Digital Finishing system. | (847) 415-5293 ROAST ASSURED™ - Coffee professionals across North America turn to Probat Burns for equipment and services they can trust. | (800) 837-0863

Shore Measuring Systems, a division of CTB Inc., manufactures, markets and services commercial grade moisture testers for coffee, tea and cocoa.

Walker Coffee Trading, LP | (800) 387-9398

Probat Burns, Inc.

Shore Measuring Systems | (713) 780-7050

Shop around for your beans! Visit to see our green coffee offering lists. Our reputation stands out for our great quality of beans and excellent customer service.

Cablevey Conveyors | (641) 673-8451

Cablevey Conveyors produces best-in-class tubular cable & disc conveyors for gentle conveying of green beans & roasted whole bean coffee with minimal breakage, reliably, since 1971!

Coffee Holding Company | (800) 458-2233

From one bag to a full truck, Coffee Holding Company provides green coffee solutions to specialty roasters including exclusive Daterra Estate and Organic Certified coffees.

Flexicon Corporation | (610) 814-2400

FLEXI-DISC® Tubular Cable Conveyors with polymer discs on stainless cable gently slide all forms of coffee and tea through smooth stainless tubing at any angle.

International Coffee Consulting Group | (818) 347-1378

ICC can partner with you in Business Planning, Marketing, Sales Growth and Technical Support offerin Q-Grader, R-Grader and SCAA Certification classes and fully customized trainings for your company. Our consultants travel the world on projects for private companies, teaching certification courses, and conducting coffee tours.

Pacific Bag, Inc. | (800) 562-2247 PBi has been a packaging resource to specialty coffee for over 25 years with quality product, outstanding service, and continued commitment to the coffee industry.

10 August 2016

Women Care Certified Producer: Lomas al Rio | Lomas al Rio Mill | Palmares, Costa Rica

Interesting Fact

Women Care Certified is the labor of love of the women of IWCA-Costa Rican Chapter. The norms were designed to protect, promote and empower women in coffee.

Region Palmares, Costa Rica

Arabica Variety Caturra, Bourbon, Geisha, Costa Rica 95, Obata

About the Producer

Lomas al Río obtained the Women Care Certification after a rigorous inspection by Eco-Logica, verifying women’s participation at the Mill and their important role in the industry. Grace Mena, General Manager of Lomas al Rio is currently leading the IWCA Costa Rica Chapter, as they strive to position the Women’s Harvest coffee brand as well as promote Women Care Certified coffees. The goal is to ensure women’s full and effective participation and equal opportunities for leadership at all levels in the coffee industry.

Processing Method Washed, Honey, Natural

Certifications Women Care Certified

Lomas processes coffees in the West Valley Region. Coffee processes that follow tradition or choose innovation, their mission is to process and provide special coffee for special people committed to environmental conservation and sustainability. Lomas seeks to participate as an agent of change to empower women in the coffee value chain. Join this movement and become facilitators of women’s access to the benefits of global trade.

More Information

Producer Profile: Terra Bella - Villa Sarchi | Costa Rica | Naranjo | Terra Bella Coffee Estate

Region Naranjo

Arabica Variety

Cupping Notes

85.3 pts on SCAA scale. Flavour notes of Dried pineapple and Black Tea.

About the Farm

The farm is located 4km away from the Volcan Poas. The estate is located towards the east meaning a large amount of sun every year. Volcanic soils together with high yearly quantity of rain (1600mm) give this special cup profile to our coffee. Farmworkers are all from the village Los Robles de Naranjo which counts 822 citizens. Coffees are dried with african high beds in a greenhouse where we permanently monitor temperature as well as humidity.

Villa Sarchi

Altitude (meters) N/A Processing Method Fully washed

Certifications N/A Aroma 8.25


More Information


Body 7.75

Acidity 8

12 August 2016


Tales From Origin Overcoming Gender Violence in Rwanda

by Dean Cycon, Founder and CEO, Dean's Beans Organic Coffee Co.


must confess that I was a little nervous driving from the Rwandan capital, Kigali, past the Hotel Rwanda and several markers noting churches, hospitals, and schools where much of the genocide took place here in 1994. As we headed towards the distant, lush mountains, I wondered how many of the farmers (both men and women) who would be participating in our program "Men and Women Working Together to Overcome GenderBased Violence" had participated in some way in the genocide, the ninety days of madness that resulted in the slaughter of nearly a million Tutsis and moderate Hutus. But Rwanda is a country that has tackled the genocide head-on. They have worked so hard to achieve an inclusive government of national unity, to punish the leaders of the genocide, and strive for formal reconciliation and forgiveness for those involved at the grassroots. It is sobering and impressive. People will talk about the genocide generically, but don't want to talk personal stories or details. It is too painful, the reconciliation process too fragile and emotional. Last year, a wonderful organization called Men's Resources International was considering a gender violence training in Rwanda and we offered to pay for three coffee farmers to participate, paying their transportation, room and board, and all fees for the workshops. Our idea was that if the trainings were a success and useful in the eyes of the farmers, then we would fund a full

training for farmers from COOPAC, the cooperative we purchase from in the northwest of the country, on the shores of Lake Kivu and near the Congo border. After the training, I received a letter signed by the farmers stating that the work was life-changing, and asking me to make it available to more farmers in Rwanda. We were on. So, over a long weekend in September, Steven and James from MRI facilitated an experiential workshop for fifteen men and fifteen women from COOPAC, exploring gender-based violence in their lives, examining the attributes of strong men and strong women in respectful relationships (economically, physically and socially). At first, few men acknowledged any violence in their lives, and only two had ever apologized to a woman for anything. They didn't consider it violence when a new bride came home and was beaten to show her what her place was and the expectations in her new home. Nor was it violence in some eyes to take the money from the family, spend it on alcohol or other women, and return to infect a wife with HIV or other STD's. A woman's ideas

Move coffee and tea gently, efficiently, dust-free System can be fed from virtually any new or existing storage vessel or process equipment (Drum Dumper and Bulk Bag Discharger shown), and discharge at a single point, or selectively at multiple points.

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were not welcome, especially if she spoke up without receiving permission, and one Muslim woman in the group said that a strong woman is one who obeys her husband no matter what. But in the safe container created by Steven and James, the women spoke up. They shared their own views on what constituted violence, on what was culturally appropriate and what was simply abusive. The men listened and took responsibility for their behavior. I don't know exactly what happened, but within three days men were asking for forgiveness and women were forgiving. Men and women were sharing ideas and opinions and standing shoulder to shoulder, instead of having the woman standing behind the man and standing there passively while he did all the talking (I may get in trouble for observing this, but during the Republican Convention I was taken aback when a couple came out to state their support for Mr. Trump, and the woman stood quietly behind the man as he did all of the talking for both of them - we share a lot more culture than we are aware of). One woman commented "We have never seen sadness in a man around violence. Now we know that men feel, too."

encouragement to the participants, as if some deep pressure was being released. The men and women all vowed to take what they had learned back to their communities around the mountains, and COOPAC promised to create a Gender Committee to continue the work and give it formal approval. We also said that we would take the work to other coops around Rwanda, and that some of the men and women could come and share their experiences with other farm communities, reinforcing my belief that cooperatives can be a powerful vehicle for social development as well as economic. Some members of the coffee industry shake their heads at this stuff, wondering why we bother to do this when all we have to do is buy coffee at a good price and be done with it. But as you know, we believe that the quality of the coffee is a reflection of the quality of life of our farmer partners, and the health and strength of their community is integral to our success. I live for this kind of work. And by the way, the coffee from COOPAC received the top honors at the East African Specialty Coffee Competition. From the ashes of the genocide, these communities have come back to grow a great coffee and create a strong economic and social base for the resurgence of their lives. We are proud and humbled to be a part of this. We will be offering this great cup soon.

At the end of the trainings, we held a big community gathering, full of traditional dancing and singing. Over two hundred community members witnessed the farmer participants stand up and tell what they had learned about gender violence in their lives. They saw men turn to women in a very public place and ask for forgiveness. They saw the women forgive. It was powerful modeling for the community, and many people in the crowd shouted

Amahoro na kubaha ("Peace and Respect" in Rwandan).

with FLEXI-DISC® Tubular Cable Conveyors

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• Gentle, dust-free, energy-efficient conveying of fragile coffee and tea with no separation of blends • Single or multiple inlets and outlets allow a wide range of layout configurations • Comprehensive range of components • 4 and 6 in. (10 and 15 cm) diameter Discs on 304/316 Stainless Cable • Sanitary Systems including Polymer-coated or Uncoated Stainless Cable, and CIP accessories



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Texas Coffee School’s Featured Café Trio Craft Coffee

by Texas Coffee School


his month’s Featured Coffee Store is renowned for their passion for providing exceptional coffee and delicious bites to eat in an approachable manner. This coffee shop delivers a high-quality experience, from the rustic and customer-minded café (i.e. accessible outlets to plug in laptops!), to their notably friendly staff (i.e. no pretentious baristas ignoring you here!) and delightful and refreshing food and drink offerings. Trio Craft Coffee merges beauty, flavor, and passion to construct masterful, and more importantly, tasty works of art!

But at Trio Craft Coffee, you simply can’t go wrong! Shown in picture (clockwise from top left): Shaken Strawberry Latté, Rose Tea Latté, Café Latté, and an “Arnold Palmer” made with cascara tea with simple syrup and lime juice. The mission of Trio Craft Coffee is honest and raw. Symbolic and meaningful, Trio Craft Coffee reminds their patrons: Shown in Picture: Trio Craft Coffee’s Cafe

“…We are here to walk [our customers] through this process of coffee enlightenment and our hopes are for [them] to be able to declare with us one day… I was blind and now I see.” ~Susan & Carlos Palcios- Owners of Trio Craft Coffee The Braille symbol for “3” in their logo represents Trio Craft Coffee’s dedication to providing exceptional coffee, and to providing opportunities to educate others on the true meaning of specialty coffee. It is with tremendous honor that we feature Trio Craft Coffee, as we stood with them in beginning of the café’s making and were able to guide them on the path toward coffee enlightenment.

Some fan favorites include the Cubano Panini (Shown right) and Yogurt Parfait (Shown left).

When they reflect on their coffee journey, Carlos & Susan tell us: “After getting married in 2012, we knew quickly that we wanted to pursue a family mission together through an entrepreneurial venture. We desired to invest in the flourishing of our local community. Our passion for coffee and people naturally led us to consider a specialty coffee shop concept. We desired to serve our community and deliver an incredible coffee product that took something ‘common’ and ubiquitous, and unearth the best possible results.” If you would like to visit Trio Craft Coffee to try some (or all!) of their delicious and unique beverages and food items, you can locate them at: 2628 Long Prairie Road, Ste 103 Flower Mound, TX 75028


And you can always find comfort in the smooth, rich taste of the Maple Bourbon Latté.

Texas Coffee School specializes in coffee shop business training, barista training, and hosts an array of coffee classes fit for any coffee lover! If you are interested in opening up a coffee business, you can come through our 3-Day Coffee Business Course like Susan & Carlos did and begin working toward living out your dreams! Simply click on the link above or contact us via phone at (682) 712-1320 to register. August 2016

We invite you to check out our programs: 1





Batch Brewing - A Coffee Service Comeback? by Ken Shea, Owner Ken Shea Consulting


am borderline bright enough to realize that coffee consumption in the Shea household is not a microcosm of global coffee trends nor a harbinger of what might happen in the Coffee Service industry, but in looking at our family’s changing personal brewing habits I was prompted to re-visit current trends with a number of operator friends of mine. We have six active brewers in our home. The most active have been brew-by-cup devices. Until recently, the most inactive has been a batch-brew system with a 64-ounce thermal decanter. For more than a month, I had been staring at two one-pound bags of a very nice whole bean coffee. My operator/roaster friends, Jeff and Roger at Prairie Fire in Wichita, Kansas had given me this bounty on a recent trip. Occasionally, I would squeeze the bags to experience the wonderful aroma of the exotic blends held within. Several weeks later, another friend sent a dozen bags of Kona whole bean product from the Parry Estate Plantation, freshly roasted. Again, I would go into bag squeezing mode. Fast forward a few weeks later and my wife, Charlotte upgraded our grinder inventory and we were back in the batch brewing business. Coffee - a multi-sensory experience As we patiently awaited the finish of the initial 5-minute brewing process, Charlotte and I were delighted not only with the aroma permeating the room, but also with the sounds being generated by the brew process. One of the first thoughts this experience stimulated was of a market blitz our Coffee Service Company coordinated back in the early 1990’s, where we identified a competitor that in our estimation had an inferior private-label product. Our directive to the sales team was a simple one: Show, smell and brew. The visual differences along with the intriguing aromas closed many an account even before brewing a pot. Our team had fun, closed a lot of accounts, and made money for the company and themselves. It was an exciting experience of sight, sound, smell, and taste. An Evolving Coffee Service Market Around the same time as our market blitz, the single-cup brewing movement was gaining momentum. Office consumer fascination with variety and convenience was creating a demand/pull dynamic that resulted in a steady move away from batch brewing to cups, pouches and pods. The trend has continued through recent times. And though for almost two decades we operators have enjoyed a big lift in same-account sales and profits by converting accounts to single cup, with each new season comes more downward pricing pressure from operator proliferation and lowering retail cup prices.


Coupled with these realities, for several years there has been a growing demand for higher quality brew-by-pack blends. The menu of offerings from long-time single cup manufacturers and newer participants in the category has continued to expand, and the quality has improved. But are all of the needs and demands in the office being met? The Fractional Pack Re-birth? As I reached out to some of my operator friends, I was not surprised to hear that consumption of some “kits” was on the upswing. More often than not, the SKU’s in growth mode were found to be the higher-end varietals and blends. While it is too early to assume that this trend will move throughout the industry and grow, the prospects of this pose interesting possibilities on the revenue side of things for the operator and a resurgence of traditional business for the roaster. Thanks to the single-cup pioneers, office coffee service customers have accepted a 70-cent and beyond cost per cup. (Even at this level, office coffee service remains a great value). Does this create new possibilities for high-end fractional packs and/or bulk coffee? Can the days of selling “decent” Arabica blends in the forty-dollar range packed in 40ish count cases be replaced by operators offering higher end blends that could command double that selling price (and profit)? One thing is for sure. The multi-sensory experience that can be delivered by batch-brewing coffee from a fractional pack or bulk bag is a delightful one. An industry marked by change Looking back over the 50-year history of the Coffee Service industry, there have been a number of milestones such as:

The inception of Coffee Service The creation of the nitrogen-flushed fractional pack Introduction of thermal decanters The Coffee Shop phenomenon Single-Cup Brewing

Looking ahead, one can only wonder what the next decade and beyond will look like, given the growing number of Millennials in the workplace and their discriminating palates; the growing number of small offices that are underserved today, and the ever-expanding desire for a great brew….by the cup or by the “batch!” Will we see another milestone? Stay tuned. August 2016

Ken Shea, Owner, Ken Shea Consulting

COPYRIGHT 2016 HUHTAMAKI INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. IMPRESSO™ IS A TRADEMARK OF HUHTAMAKI IN THE USA AND OTHER COUNTRIES. *PATENT PENDING Msg & data rates may apply. 1 msg/wk. Rply STOP to opt out any time. Rply HELP for help. Visit for terms and privacy policy.

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Controlled Fermentations An Overlooked Opportunity For Flavor Development


ermentation is a topic very dear to me because many of my favorite beverages are fermented: wine, beer, distilled spirits, mead, cider, kombucha and coffee. Usually when I get to the end of the list with coffee, I get a sideways look and the question “coffee is fermented?” Well, yes and no. If you’re reading CoffeeTalk, you likely know coffee is fermented, but what does that really mean? After the coffee is picked and depulped, fermentation is a step in the production of washed and semi washed coffees to remove the mucilage and leave a clean seed before drying the parchment. Unlike the other beverages I mentioned, the fermentation step is not strictly required because the mucilage can be removed through mechanical methods or dried in the natural process. While a fermentation is not required to process coffee, I believe it is an integral (and often overlooked) step to extract the maximum quality potential from the seed to the cup. What is happening during fermentation? Yeast and bacteria naturally found in the soil, cherry skin, and mill environment metabolize the sugar in the mucilage and convert it - to carbon dioxide and alcohol in the case of yeast, and acids in the case of bacteria. Both yeast and bacteria produce enzymes to help break down available food sources - like the sugars found in mucilage. The coffee seed itself is not transformed by this process, but there is still a flavor impact from fermentation that can be noticed after roasting. Even though only mucilage is removed in the fermentation, the impact is obvious to anyone who has ever found an “over-fermentation” or “winey” defect in a cupping. As my favorite Danish physicist Niels Bohr said, “the opposite of a profound truth may very well be another profound truth”. Very simply - if we can get undesirable flavors and aromas from poor fermentation, then the reverse is also true - desirable flavors can be maximized with controlled fermentation. What does it mean to control the fermentation? Wine is an example of a beverage that closely controls the fermentation process with carefully selected yeast strains to coax specific flavor profiles

by Lucia Solis

from grapes. If you want to bring out the tropical fruit in your Sauvignon blanc you would use a different yeast than if you’re looking for a floral flavor profile. Winemakers can choose from hundreds of different yeast strains to influence the specific flavor profile they are looking for. Why aren’t we looking at coffee the same way? I have seen that the yeast strains have an effect on flavor profiles in coffee as well. In discussions regarding fermentation in Central America several producers detailed experiments, but rarely are they controlling the type of yeast that is actively in the tanks. Identifying the native yeast requires genetic testing and is very cost-prohibitive. Hence most trials involve manipulating parameters like time and temperature. This is a great step in coffee processing towards taking control of flavor development, but it is only scratching the surface of maximizing favor potential. On the other side of the fermentation spectrum are producers who are experimenting with eliminating the fermentation step using mechanical demucilagers as water access becomes limited in producing areas. However, the tradeoff can be a reduction in flavor complexity. Producers moving away from fermentation indicated an interest in adopting a full natural process at their mills, but cited inconsistent flavors as too problematic to pivot away from washed processing. Starting in 2014 I have conducted fourteen controlled fermentation trials in eight countries under very different circumstances. The trials in which the already present yeasts and bacteria were replaced with a controlled and intentional fermentation resulted in a markedly improved flavor profile in the best of cases and a more consistent flavor in the remaining instances. These trials are an excellent foundation on which to expand, and producer feedback is encouraging to continue calibrating the use of controlled fermentation to improve and stabilize coffee output. There’s plenty of hope for a happy union between the science of fermentation and the art of delicious coffee. Yeast is not a magic solution that can always produce better flavors. It is still true that you’re only as good as your raw material. I do believe that controlled fermentations are key for quality and we can all agree that those seeking higher quality and flavor complexity need to begin at origin.

20 August 2016


Roasters Rock



o a viewer of the news it would appear that the world is on fire and we are all just circling the toilet bowl. Turmoil, terror, Brexit, and the US presidential race has created uncertainty, fear, and anxiety.

5) Use quality as the precursor of price discovery. Work hard to strive for a quality product. Ask for a fair price for that quality. Pay a fair price for quality products supplied to you.

But My Fellow Coffee Professional, we may hold the key to a global solution. We are the example of what the world must become. We need to lead by example, and hopefully leaders around the world will start to see the true way to bring us all together.

6) Nurture others. Create arrangements to reward increases in production and quality with employees and suppliers. Set goals that require working together for mutual success. Reward the success adequately for all so as to encourage further growth.

Our industry is global. It is 1st world and 3rd world dependent. It involves agriculture, manufacturing, import / export of goods, wholesaling and retailing. It supplies all classes of people equally. It concerns itself with the balance between production and ecological sustainability and is directly affected by the Earth’s diverse climate. It supports the families of Buddhists, Muslims, Jews, Christians and Atheists. If any industry should be impossible to manage, it should be ours, because on the surface it seems there are just too many competing interests for this to work at all.

7) A rising tide raises all ships. Share education and information. This does not mean giving away trade secrets, but it does require helping others improve their businesses. If we in Specialty Coffee make each other better, more consumers will want what we have and the cycle pays off for everyone.

AND YET IT WORKS! Here is why: At the core of the coffee industry is recognition that we are all friends and we need each other in order to survive. If someone takes advantage of another, they ultimately hurt themselves. Wealthier consuming countries can’t grow coffee. Growing countries can’t pay the price for coffee that makes it sustainable so it must be exported. The economy of coffee is immense. It employs millions of people around the world. It is often one of the top five exported products for a country. It is the core product of several Fortune 500 companies. As a commodity, it is one of the most important and volatile traded on the ICE. GLOBAL COMMODITY / COUNTRY PRIDE In many Western, wealthier countries there is an emotional tug-of-war going on between moving to a globalized economy or being country-centric. It has to do with fear, local economic conditions, opportunity, trade, immigration control, and employment of citizens. One side sees global markets as an opportunity to sell more products. The other side sees the opportunity at the expense of Sovereignty. Strong arguments can be made for either side, and in doing so creates a heated dialogue that only occasionally leads to a productive outcome. If our collective leaders would just look to us coffee folks, they would see a model that is working, and it might be a good example how other industries might handle themselves. The following ‘Coffee Industry Platform’ is offered here as an example to other industries as well as political leaders: 1) Respect the people you do business with. By simply dealing fairly and making sure that all will be successful at the outcome of the transaction, you create a sustainable, bilateral trade agreement. 2) Be ‘sustainable’ in all you do. Ensure that how you conduct yourself will have a net positive on your business, trade partners, supply chain, and planet. 3) Be proud of both your country AND theirs. You need each other so celebrate your role in the industry while also acknowledging theirs.


Rocky Rhodes

8) Trust each other. In our industry we like to handle things with more handshakes than contracts and we will try to work out differences without lawyers involved. Bad actors in the industry are quickly known to all and market forces exact the changes in them. They will either change or suffer by their own decisions. 9) Build Communities. If you are a coffee shop you will be the most successful if you can get community support. If you are a small farmer you may learn more and have a larger voice by creating a co-op or an association. Join trade associations that help bring you together with others you might not normally meet. Be a productive member of the communities you are involved with. You will always get out more than you put in, so it is a great investment. 10) A hand up is always better than a hand out. There are many institutions that have great intentions but can ultimately have a detrimental effect on those they are trying to help. If a program gives something away without expectations, be skeptical. If it offers something as a reward for behavioral changes, be supportive. If you can create or participate in an effort to support positive efforts being done by the recipient, do so enthusiastically. 11) LISTEN to each other. Be honest in discussing differences without being accusatory, or demonizing the other person or group. If there is a conflict it is usually a misunderstanding either in translation or the motives of the other party. If the division is too great and a compromise can’t be reached, agree to disagree and move on. You see, this whole planetary going-to-heck-in-a-handbasket situation can be averted with some simple changes. What is interesting is that the changes come from inside each of us, in how we choose to deal with others. Coffee people tend to choose wisely. Let us be an example to the world! Rocky Rhodes is an 18 year coffee veteran, roaster, and Q-Grader Instructor, and his mission now is to transform the coffee supply chain and make sweeping differences in the lives of those that produce the green coffee. Rocky can be reached at rocky@

4) Strive for better living conditions at all economic levels. This does not mean striving for equality of economies. It is more like conscientious individualism. Find ways to make your situation better by helping others get better, too.

Photo by Trish Rothgeb

August 2016


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a culinary program to their coffee shop. Each three-hour workshop will explore the basics of what it takes to be successful, the pitfalls many fall into as Coffee Fest Anaheim & well as a number of things the the Food Integration Lab presenters wished they had Coffee Fest known before they got started. announces a full package Grounds for Health of classes and Exceeds Goal for workshops Summer Solstice for the 78th Coffee Fest which Campaign is set to occur Anaheim, Thanks to CA, September 30th to Oct a generous 2nd at Anaheim Convention match Center. Coffee Fest Anaheim challenge is the largest and only mega by Howard marketplace devoted exclusively Weiss from to specialty coffee retail, tea and Scolari Engineering and a the related industries to visit flurry of last-minute donations, the Western US in 2016. Coffee Grounds for Health successfully Fest Anaheim will feature raised $11,500 during the 200 exhibition booths and month of June. All funds will more than 100 profit-building support Grounds for Health’s classes workshops and special programs that deliver life-saving attractions. Registration is open healthcare services to women at living in coffee-growing regions Coffee Fest is proud to unveil in Ethiopia, Kenya, and Peru. the NEW Food Integration “Huge thanks to Howard for Labs to debut at Coffee Fest prompting this campaign and to Anaheim. all those who helped us exceed The new Food Integration Lab our $10,000 goal,” said Pam workshops are designed to Kahl, VP of Development & educate attendees about what Communications at Grounds it takes to successfully add for Health. “We continue to be


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Innovations for a better world. August 2016

Profile for CoffeeTalk Magazine

August 2016  

Tools for Roasting Producer Profile: Terra Bella - Villa Sarchi Tales from Origin - Overcoming Gender Violence in Rwanda Controlled Ferme...

August 2016  

Tools for Roasting Producer Profile: Terra Bella - Villa Sarchi Tales from Origin - Overcoming Gender Violence in Rwanda Controlled Ferme...