#TheWorld by Keitija Denize Abele

#THEWORLD

PROCESSDOCUMENTby KEITIJADENIZEABELE

E E K 1

THETHIRDCHANC

ETeam'snamemeaning:Usually yougiveanotherpossibilityto remedythemistakesmade,but oursecondchancehaslong gonenow IntheCOP21in2015 thecountriesstipulatedthewell knownParisAgreementwhich setagoalfor2030:keepingthe globaltemperaturerisethis centurybelow15degreecelsius abovepre-industriallevels But theGlobalCarbonBudgetsays thatiftheglobalemissionsdon’t changedrasticallywehavethe 50%ofpossibilitytoreachthe15 degreesCelsiusalreadyin2031

The lack of commitment towards a more sustainable system is proved also by the COP27 happeninginthesedayswhichisbeingdiscussednotforthegreatresolutions,butfortheterrible contradictions:themeatbasedmenu,thehighuseofprivatejets,cocacolaasasponsor These actions prove that those who should be working on a transaction to a more sustainable future aren’tmakingagreatwork,thereforeweneedtobethethirdchance

IT'SALL ABOUT PEOPLE

Commonpurpose/mottomeaning: Weareclaimingthepowerto demandforachangethathasin mindpeople’sgood,people’swayof thinking/behavingandpeople’s possibilities Inordertobringfashion closertopeopleinsteadofkeeping themaway

SYMPOSIUM

DENIM

Hemp good alternative but isstiffandisalongprocessto cottonize but is easy to grow, it grows in every soil andit’scheaptogrow

Cottoncan’tgrowineverysoil if you don’t cultivate cotton in a right way the soil might be damaged and dries out, no other plants can grow there

Two types of denim that can be used for recycling post consumer and pre consumer denim post consumer is more expensive to be recycled because of buttons, seams, finishing Post consumer Denim that can be recycled and denim that cannot ( example mixed with polyester)

STINKYFISH

Veryhardtounderstandwhat is sustainable certificates you think you can rely on sometimesarefalse/frauded Usestorytellingtoinspire Pay attention to how the worldsustainableisused

Be the critical voice, be active Weneedlegislation Ifyouaddingbesureyouare adding value and to only adding Government cannot interfere in the free market beOPTIMISTIC

BRANDS&SUSTAINABILITY

Votewithyourmoney Government should limit advertisement about sales, fastfashionetc most important question is WHY you do stuff? The stronger the answer the moremoneyyou’llmake If you make brand fit in people’s lives you make moresales buying from a specific brand is like voting for a politicalparty-youhaveto communicate your values togetpeople’svote(buy) prioritize people getting behindyou

VOTEWITHYOUR MONEY

WORKSHOP

Value chain - adding value to each step, supplies come in supply comes out but they addmanpowertoitandchargemarginfortheaddedvalue

Whoaddsthevalue?

Brander Designer Productdeveloper Retail Sales

Supplychain-supplieswithoutmanpower

Demandchain -brandercreatesthedemandforaproduct

Demandmarketing-freeshipping-freereturns-blackfriday

Aninterestingexample:openingprintscreen300euros-print300pieces-1euroadded topiecescost-print30000pieces-costaddedisonly10cents

BrandingsroleinBalenciaga-costtomake22euros-sellsfor700euros

Youcanchange2from3things-time-quality-money

PersonalideasandthoughtsthatIgotthroughouttheworkshop

Customers create the demand for fabric with the way they consume, why not and how to change it to a model where the designer creates demand for fabrics, thereforecreatinglesswasteandoverproduction

Whynottobeagainstpolyester?

Fast fashion is not bad it's efficient, controversial but on the surface very real when yougetintotheworkingoftheindustryandchains Howcodependedonefficiencyyouaredeterminesthecostofproducts

TEAMSREFLECTION

During this week, thanks to the symposium and to the definition of our manifesto, we were abletodefineacommonpurpose It’sallaboutpeople

Ourshared3maintakeawaysthatwerealsoaskedinweekstoolshopfromthesymposium were: 1 2 3

Createaninnnovationthatchecksbrandssustainabilityclaims Sustainableactionsneedtobeappealingandprofitabletotheaverageconsumer

If we want to make a change we need to do it on a government level through legislation

Wecalculated22stepsinthevaluechain Wedefinevaluechainasaddingvaluetoeach step of a supply chain, charging a margin price for the added value We had thought throughallofthestepsandrolesandhadonlytoaddmorespecifiedrolesdependingonif thecompanywasbiggerorsmaller

We were intrigued in the attempts and ideas on how the value chain can be made circularhoweveritiseasiersaidthandone Ofwhatwegatheredbothfromworkshopsat loadandworkshopsinclassittakesmoremanpower,hoursandefforttomakeitcircular thatitistomakethechainlinear For example take jeans To take apart the material from used jeans to then use it as a material for new jeans it takes 40 hours but to use a new virgincottonmaterialwhichisnotsustainablebecauseweareproducingmoreandmore newmaterial,ittakesminutes Inthefashionworldeverythingisabouttime-timeismoney andifyouarenotdoingeverythingfastenough,youarelosingmoney

We do not have a circular economy yet because in the current system sustainable practises are not profitable and efficient as unsustainable ones and fashion is about efficiency.

PERSONAL REFLECTION

Thisweekshighlightsformewerethesymposiumandtheworkshopwithourteachers substituteNicholas Nicholasthoughtusaboutvaluechainandwetoucheduponallthe rolesandchainsthereareintheindustry Thislessonsparkedmotivationandpassiononce againforwhatIamstrivingtoachieveinthefuture Thislessonalsosparkedalotof questionsinmeabouttheindustriesworkingsandIfoundlearningaboutthesechains reallyinsightfulandbyfeelingcuriousaboutthesystemIfeltmyselfconnectedtothe industry

Thesymposiumstartedoffweakassomehowthespeakersdidnotinterestmeatfirstwith thetopicsbutduringtheBrands&SustainabilitytalkIfounddriveinsideofme Ihadapage fullofnotesbytheendofthetalkandalsofoundmyselfstrivingtowardsthefutureand seeingmyselfintheindustry AsIdidnothaveaclearideaofwhatiscomingin#theworldI justusedallwhatamfihadtoofferthisweekforselfevaluation Thisweekmayhavetiedin betterwithMyGenforme Ifoundpeoplewhosejobsandexperienceinterestedmeand askedthemquestionsthathelpedmebuildaclearedvisionofwhat andwheremyplace inthisworldcouldbe

ThisweekdidnotyetleadmeontoapathwhereIcouldclearlyseewhatMYstinkyfish couldbeasIwasmoretiedwiththeideasofmyfuturewiththebrandingtalk However,I wasthinkingmoreabouttheconsumerpartofthechainthemost,atalltimesduringthe weekalready,whichmayleadmetobiggerideaslateronbutnotyet

E E K 2

PRESSURETO CHANGE

ThishasbeenatopicthatinterestedmeparticularywhenVictoriaSecretmadethedrastic changeintheirimageandwaysofmarketingtostayontheirpedestal Itkeptme wondering "thecampaignsstaringthesenewnormal,empowering,notparticularly sexualizedwomen"howtrutfullyfromheartisVictoriaSecretwantingtoacceptthatitis timetochange Howpressuredfromsocietyweretheyreallytodothisandisitgoingto workifitisjustacovertotheystayrelevant Whatwentonbehindthescenes?

Idothinktheproblemstartedwhentheshowspointwastocatertothemalegaze Nothing cangorightifyoudosomethingformencoveringitwiththelabelforwomen Whileit workedinthe2000'sVictoriaSecretstimetochangehadalreadygonebywhenwomen became"woke"andthefirst"girlboss"booksappearedontheshelvesofbookstoresand manywomenwereseeingtheirstrengthtochangethewomanandmenpowerdynamic VictoriaSecretgotsostuckintheirfame,lace,glitterandgolddustlosingthesightof whatwomenreallywanted EdRazekin2019provesjustthatbyansweringthesequestions "Shouldn’tyouhavetranssexualsintheshow?No No,Idon’tthinkweshould,"Razeksaidlast November "Well,whynot?Becausetheshowisafantasy It’sa42-minuteentertainment special That’swhatitis Itistheonlyoneofitskindintheworld,andanyotherfashionbrand intheworldwouldtakeitinaminute,includingthecompetitorsthatarecarpingatus And theycarpatusbecausewe’retheleader""Aboutcurveandplussizemodels,hesaid:"We attemptedtodoatelevisionspecialforplussizes[in2000] Noonehadanyinterestinit Still don’t"Tenmonthslater,EdRazekisreportedlyresigning"

Especiallyifyouaretheleaderandkeepthemostprideinthat,thefirstmistakeyoucould makewastodisregardwomeninterests Idonotunderstandhowcomesuchalarge companycouldhavemissedtheoppurtunitytostayintheirgamejustbychanging slowlyovertime Wasitallonemansfaultandhisbeliefsofwhatisamansfantasy?

Thesecondweeksfirsttoolshoptalksaboutgreenwashingandbeingpressuredto changewhenthetruthcomestolight

Nowitislikebuildinganewbrandandditchingtheoldone,mightaswelldothat,evenI thinkthatwouldbebetter Butevenwiththechangetheyaremaking,thisiswhytheyare nevergoingtobethebigblowupastheywere Theircorebeingfantasyformen Women simplywanttofeelempoweredandindependentwithoutmen,withoutmorelaceontheir underwear Theageofmorecoloursandglitterislonggone ThinkbrandslikeAerie, ThirdLoveandFentysawtheopportunityanddemandinmarkettobringdiversityand sexinesswithoutebedazelmentallinoneattherighttime Alreadyin2016whenVictoria Secretfirstintroducedbralettestheywerefallingbehind Womenwerelongingforcomfort andsupportforalongtimetherealready Anotherthingwasrepresentation-Ifyoudonot seeyourselfinashopyouarelesslikelytoshopthere Peoplewanttoseethatbrandsareorganicandstriveforchangefromtheirbeginning Nowpeoplecannotchangehowtheyseethebrand-strivingtodoanythingtobecome relevantanditjustdoesn'tlooknatural Thatistheirbiggestmistake-comingoffwithfake intentions

"WewonderifthebrandwouldhavepickeditselfupandoutofitsregressiveholehasRazek leftsooner"

STINKYFISH

Ourteamsstinkyfishesgrouped:

Internationalregulation:

Thenwehadtovote:twovotesforthestinkyfishwefeelthestrongestforandoneforthe stinkyfishwewouldputinthesecondplace:

Iwasdowntosacrificemystrongeststinkyfishfortheirfirstoptionwhichwassupply chainbutwecouldnotdecidewhichtotakeonandcreatedendtwooptions:

Narrowed down as we remembered that in the first weeks purpose finding we were mostly talking about our own purpose being working with the people, consumers, audience, we also thought that choosing consumer related stinky fish would be in our strengthts to tackle, keeping in mind our goals in life, in general For me, for context, my drive in fashion is to understand consumer behaviour, change it for a brand and dive into human, fashion psychology, evokefeelingswithmyworksothiswasourfinaldecision

Whatifwecouldchangeeverything?

Everything is interconnected You need a focus to really make a change if everyone madeachangeinasmallerareaitwouldbemoreeffective

Thingsthatdon’tmakeourgoalhappen: Trends marketingthatmakegarmentsappealingBadqualitygarments Noinscrutionstoconsumertodiscardgarment It’scheapertobuyanewgarmentthantorepair

Imaginehowyourimprovedscenariolooks: Peopledressbecauseoftheirstyleandnotbecauseoftrends >garments

Consequence: Lesswaste,lessproduction,betterqualityboth

Whatitcouldbe:

Corporation which includes the 1 retail part (new garments) which are not based on trands but is all shapes and types of garment are available So consumers don’t buy basedonbrandsbutontheirstyleandpersonaltaste 2 Repairandredesigndepartment > damaged clothes can be designed in new garments based on consumer’s choice 3 Recyclingdepartemnt >consumercantaketheirdemadgedclothesbacktowherethey boughit4 Reselling(secondhandandredesignedclothesareselled)atcheaperprice Corporation is supervised by government legislation Corporation can include all different typesofbrand

Whatitisrightnow: Overproductionwhichfollowstrends Overconsumptionbecauseoflowqualityandcheap prices

THEORYOFCHANGE

REFLECTION

This week I was very sick so could not participate fully and most of the decision, while I helped to make them, were in my teams hands, for example with the blue sky thinking assignmentandwhatif,Ihadmyownideasbutofcourseitwaseasierforthoseinperson to agree on such big ideas that later are going to be turned into a concept Although, I could not participate fully I made sure I explored where my passions lie in correlation to stinky fishes in the industry, hence I dived into Pressure to change This week I noticed how strongmyconsumerandsocialmatterstinkyfishesare,reallyandwasreallyhappythatmy team decided to take on my suggestion with voting on stinky fishes when their strongest stinkyfishwereaboutsupplychain,whichisalsogoingtoinfluencethewayIfeelandwork with the project later on Comparing to last week I started to get the gist of the whole TheWorld concept but haven't fully understood what is coming next or what steps should wetake Iamsurethenextweeksaregoingtobringmoreclarity

MARKETINGSIMPACTINFASHION

Manybelievethatthecoreofoverconsumptionlieswithinproductionandthewithinthe buyer Butwhyisitthebuyersproblem Isthebuyinghabitbasedonthewantsandneeds oftheconsumerordoestheproblemlieevendeeper Whatisthedrivingfactorandwhat determinestheconsumersneedforclothingiftheyalreadyhaveeverythingnecessaryin theirwardrobe “Theproblemoffastfashionmustbeanalyzednotonlyfromtheproducers andmanufactures,butalsointhewayconsumptionisviewedbyconsumers,ultimately perpetuatingamuchlargercycleofpollutionandhumanimpactacrossthedeveloping world”(Shoaff,SamuelJ 2020)

Startingfromthestreetsandendingwithourbottledwater,packagingonfood,advertising iseverywhereeventhoughwedonotnoticeitfeedsintooursubconscious Imaginewhatit doesforourdrivetobuy Itmaynotbeasappealingtosee“buy2bagsofchipsforthe priceofone”asitistosee“buy2shirtsforthepriceofone” Whatroledoesfashion marketingplayinonesdailylifewithoutonesconsentandhowdoonedefinesitiftheydo notseeitseffectuntilthenewsshowyoudevastatingstatistics“TheApparelIndustry’s GlobalEmissionsWillIncreaseby50%by2030”or“$500billionisLostEachYearBecauseof Under-wearingandFailuretoRecycleClothes” (10StunningFastFashionWasteStatistics 2018)

“Fashion marketing is concerned with understanding the complexneeds and wants of consumers of fashion and with orienting both strategic and operational businessactivitiestosatisfythosedemands;fashionmarketing’sparticularcomplexity asabusinessphilosophyarisesfromthediversityoffashion-relatedinfluenceswhich shape consumer needs combined with thefast-moving pace of fashion-product lifecycles “(DrLizBarnes 2013)“FashionMarketingisaboutinnovation,copingwiththechange, andcreatingsomethingunique Fashionmarketingiscertainlydifferentinawaythanother areasofmarketingbecauseithasthepowertoinfluencethegenerations Fashion marketingincludesvariousaspectslikeFashionMarketingresearch,FashionProduct Management,FashionPromotion,FashionDistribution,FashionProductpositioningand pricing,verifyinganyethicalissuesinfashionmarketing,etc”(NilambariChandwadkar 2022) Itisimmenselypowerfulnotonlyinthewayhowitchangesonesperceptionofabrandor thecurrentcollectionofabrandbutalsochangingsalesandsometimesallittakesisby changingtheinformationthatistransparenttothecustomer

Itisyear2011andH&Mssalesstipulateduringthenextdecadeduetotheimpactof marketingintherightwaybutworkinginthewrongestways Therewouldbe“noproblem”“if thesecond-largestfastfashionretailer,hadn’t madeapublicstanceintheircommitment toenvironmentalism ThiswasshownthroughtheirConsciousCollectionwhichlaunchedin 2011(Silver)”AllofthiswhilecomingoutwiththeirCONSCIOUSACTIONSSUSTAINABILITYREPORT 2011andstatingthattheirlevelofinfluenceinthechangeofsustainabledesign,workingwith onlyrawmaterialsorsustainablefabricprocessingisreallyindirect

This collection specifically aimed to target those consumers who understand what to feel more honorable and make more informed choices that will minimize the environmental impact on the planet, but do not understand the depth of the role fast fashion plays Typically, these campaigns are made on the part of a large-scale retailers attempting to curb their consumer base into believing they are reforming the system at a large When in fact, what retailers are trying to promote is a greater sense of honor in the consumer, so theycanfeelpositiveabouttheirpurchase,ratherthanbeshamedforitsbroaderimpact” (Shoaff,SamuelJ 2020))

Greenwashing at it’s best An act of stating information on a clothing tag about clothing while it being partly false or covering some facts comes in Highlighting the good facts abo t d ti Alth h h thi t t it l it d 2018 d 2019 fals ded int

“Called out by Changing Markets Foundation, H&M provided insincere sustainable fashion claims all around the stores of EU They looked at clothing from major high-street fashion brands to check the truthfulness of their sustainability claims and found 60% of claims overall were misleading That’s bad but H&M were found to be the worst offenders with a shocking 96% of their claims not holding up Put simply, virtually all of the Scandinavian FashionGiant’sclaimsweredesignedtotrickpeopleconcernedabouttheirenvironmental impactintobuying

The fast fashion industry is notorious for its environmental impact, so a level of greenwashing is to be expected there But you might be surprised at the sheer amount of greenwash that was revealed in a 2021 report from the Changing Markets Foundation” (Akepa 2021)

To conclude, Since then, H&M untrue claims have come to light and the sales have dropped, however greenwashing is still really dangerous act existing in other large fashion houses, waiting for their time to shine so next time you are buying, make sure to have resources to back up the information marketed If it is marketed well it does not mean it shouldsellaccordingly

CITATIONLIST

1 10StunningFastFashionWasteStatistics From:https://earthorg/statistics-about-fastfashion-waste/[retrieved18December2022]

2 AkepaJuly232021Greenwashing:12recentstand-outexamples From: https://thesustainableagencycom/blog/greenwashing-examples/#hm[retrieved18 December2022]

3 DrLizBarnesSeptember2013FashionMarketingUniversityofManchesterUK From: https://wwwresearchgatenet/publication/262863535 Fashion marketing[retrieved10 December2022]

4 NilambariChandwadkarMay202022IntroductiontoFashionMarketingPRODIDTCampus From:https://didtcampuscom/blog/2020/05/22/introduction-to-fashion-marketing/ [retrieved10December2022]

5 SalesoftheH&MGroupworldwide2006-2021graph From: https://wwwstatistacom/statistics/252190/gross-sales-of-the-h-und-m-group-worldwide/ [retrieved18December2022]

6 ShoaffSamuelJ "FastFashionHonorandtheValueofOverconsumption"(2020) KUCC-KutztownUniversityCompositionConference 14 From: https://researchlibrarykutztownedu/compconf/2020/2020/14 [retrieved10December2022]

7 Useofthewordgreenwashing2000-2019graph From: https://booksgooglecom/ngrams/graph? content=greenwashing&year start=2000&year end=2019&corpus=26&smoothing=3 [retrieved18December2022]

8 WhatH&MDoesn'tWantYouToBe'Conscious'About From:https://wwwgooglecom/url? sa=i&url=https://wwwhuffpostcom/entry/what-hm-doesnt-want-you-to-be-consciousabout b 581252a3e4b09b190529c1fe&psig=AOvVaw0MzWLbCRdZoVfJuTxKqC3y&ust=16718325 00377000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CBEQjhxqFwoTCJCtn8SbjvwCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE [retrieved18December2022]

[Originalsource:https://studycrumbcom/alphabetizer]

E E K 3

BUILDINGOFTHE LOGO

BUILDINGOFTHE LOGO

Firstidea-toincorporate and representcircularityinthelogo, hencethecircularshapeand arrowsaroundthepartwhere"EE" shouldbe,whiletheideaisgood, it'shardtoreadandcomesoff asasailinglogo

Maybeananimatedcircle?My opinionwasthatanimationtype ofshapescomeoffas unprofessionalforourbrandand lookchildishtorepresentamall Howaboutkeepingthecross featurewhichrepresents"EE's" butextendthetopandbottom partsoftheletter?Soitisnota boring"EE"putintheopposite directions Thefirsttrydefinitely lookedtoobulkyandoverall gaveahospitalfeelingtothe logosowetriedvariationsofthe extendedlettersbeingthinner butsomethingstillwasoff

Wealldidlikethisandthought thatthesimplicityrepresented thevaluesofourmalltransparency,minimalism, reductionofwaste Although, peersgavefeedbackthatit lookedlikeabus company ' s logosowemadesomeslight changesandreformedthe thicknesstocomeupwiththe finalversion

BUILDINGOFTHE RAPIDPROTOTYPE

whatournext,highfidelityprototypecouldbe

ISSUES

BUILDINGOFTHE RAPIDPROTOTYPE LO GO PROTOTYPE

SOLUTION

This was the idea for the rapid prototype layout to convey our ideas and a little bit of backstoryofhowitcametobebydisplayingtheissuesandsolutionaspect Wewouldadd pictures to each title but overall it creates a circular shape, going around from one to another - issues lead to the prototype - solution and in the middle there is the representativelogo

RAPIDPROTOTYPE FLOOR 2

F L O O R 1

FLOOR 3

DESIRED

OUTCOME

F L O O R 4

We chose this type of moodboard visualisation as we decided on the 4 main factors we wanttorepresentinourvisual-issueswearestrivingtotacklewiththeprojectwhichleads to the solution - our mall, where we show in detail the experience and aesthetic of each floor Then coming together is our desired outcome - a circular economy which is represented by a circle and arrows going in a round and to finalise the first visual of the prototypeourmallcouldbe Inthemiddleweincludeourprojectsnameandfinallogo

Thiscountsasourrapidprotoypeaslateronweplantobuildahighfidelityscalemodel

Duringthepreviousweeksworkshopwestartedbyoutliningthecurrentproblemsthatwe need to overcome in the consumer field: Overproduction which follows trends and Overconsumption because of low quality and cheap prices Then we started to imagine an ideal solution that led to the Re-experience project Which answers our What if? question:“Whatifwecansell,repair,redesign,resell,andrecycleallinoneplace?”andled to our impact statement: “We want to change how consumers think and act about sustainabilityandrecyclinginordertopreventoverconsumptionandthegeneraloverflow ofwaste”

Ouroutoftheboxsolution:

We conceived a corporation which is not owned by any brand in particular but is a third partysupervisedbythegovernmentlegislation

Thiscorporationisaphysicalplacemadeof4floors/levels:

1 retail department (new garments) which are not based on trends but are all different kinds of shapes/ silhouettes and types of garment are available So consumers don’t buy based on brands but on their style and personal taste Also the garment are more expensivebecausetheyarehighqualitytoextendthegarmentlifes

2 Repair and redesign department > where damaged clothes can be repaired or redesigned in new garments based on consumer’s choice If the consumer don’t like the redesignedpiecethentheitemisresoldinsidethebuildingintheresellarea

3 Reselling(secondhandandredesignedclothesareselled)atcheaperprice

4 Recycling department > consumers can take their damaged clothes back to where theyboughtit

Thefeedbackwegotontheprotoype: Somethingstodefineinthevisual

Whoisthetarget? Thecountry?

Whatisnecessaryineacharea?Largerdemographicorsmaller-thentheregularities are gonna depend - culture - language If we put our concept in one area how is it gonnaaffecttheother

Whatreallyisthetargetaudience? Howeveryoneseesthegroupsconcept?

THETALK

Since last week we haven't changed the project idea But we defined it better through the TheoryofChangetable:OurimpactStatementis“Wewanttochangehowconsumersthink and act about sustainability and recycling in order to prevent overconsumption and the general overflow of waste” And we addressed it by creating Re-experience, a corporation/building, based on 4 levels and 4 activities: retail, repair and redesign, resale andrecycle

Our short term goals were to make it profitable and efficient, and to make an impact on people by creating awareness In the long term we were hoping to create a circular businessmodelfortheconsumerrelatedpartofthevaluechain

Howeverthisweekwemadesomechangesinwhatourshortandlongtermoutcomesare Through some feedback we understood the importance of understanding who our consumer target is and in which demographic area we want to develop Therefore we madetheoutcomemoreconciseandrelatedtothesetopics

whatchangedinourimpactstatement

Anotherfeedbackwereceivedwasabouttheretaillevel. Our goal for the retail was to create a space where consumers would be able to buy basedontheirstyleandpersonaltasteratherthanbasedontrends Soourinitialconcept wastohaveaselectionofclothesofalldifferentkindsofshapesandmaterials,takenfrom brands However,anissueweencounteredwas:howdowemakebrandsselltheirclothes in our store rather than in their own one? And why should consumers come and buy in ourstoreandnotintheoriginal?

Tosolvethisissuewecollectedsomepossibilities: 1 2 3

Tobuyotherbrand’sgarmentsthatwerenotsoldandresellthem Tosellsustainablebrandsgarments Tosellboth

Buttodecidewhichroadwearegoingtotakeweagreedthatwefirstneedtodefineour targetconsumer

Ournextstepisgoingtobetestingandimprovingthefunctionalityofourprojectthrough on field research (interviews and observation of smaller existing practices) throughout Europe, in particular in the Netherlands. And in addition run some surveys in Latvia, Italy, Germany and Hungary. We in fact decide to focus on Europe, and then do some side researchofhowtheprojectmightbeappliedinAsiaandAfrica

REFLECTION

Thisweekbroughtclarityforwhat'snext,thenextstepsinourprojectandnextideas Thetalk happened the first time and I personally found it really useful, this type of concept every week to get an insight into each groups workings and get constructive criticism on our concept It was the first time we presented our concept and it was interesting to see the teachers reaction and feedback on it For me it was also one of the first times getting commentsfromteacherIsabellaDoelwijtandshereallygaveanewperspectiveaboutthe thing that we were stuck on in the project or gave me points from which I could look at it fromadifferentangle

When starting the concept idea we never really got into thinking about the demographic area As vague as it sounds from the start already we just subconsiously decided on the area being the Netherlands as we are all living here now we couldn't imagine to start our concept in a different place as we have got around Amsterdams people, vibe, shops and generalfeelingofthecity,wethoughtwewouldknowhowtoworkherethebest Although,I am not sure if we are going to change the area the commentary on researching demographic areas did open my eyes about making research on different possible locationsforfuture

E E K 4

FIELDRESEARCH

OURIDEAFORFIELD RESEARCH

Severalweeksagowhen#TheWorldwasjuststartingIrememberatimeIwashanging aroundthecityandnoticedthisreallyintriguingconceptatH&M arepairingsystemwithing thestore Developingthisideafurtherwecameupwithoneofourtestingtypes-field researchintheH&Mstoreandquestionnaireabouttheefectivnessofthissystemand appealtocustomers Furtherdevelopingthisideasparalleltoourconceptwestartedthinkingaboutresearch questionsanddefinedourdemographicareafortheplacementofourstore-Amsterdam, theNetherlandsthatisalsowherewefocusedondoingourfieldresearchinstoresand conceptsthatalignwithourideology

Withtheresearchweweretakingnoticeofthe: tohaveacomparisonpointwhendecidingforthepricesofourservices to more clearly understand our preferred average consumer and that will change what kindofmarketingweuseonthem also changes the marketing and we understand the average consumer we should strive towards tounderstandthesuccsesspossibilityofourconceptinreallife alsotohaveacomparsionpointwhenunderstandingthesuccess

pricerangefortheoffer agegroupoftheclientale wheredotheclientscomefromandhowtheystay wouldthestore/conceptwanttoparticipateinourmall intheirwordswouldtheysaytheyaresuccessful(busyandbooked) additionaltipsfromtheirexperience

H&Mrepair

successful,alwaysworking,alotofclientale age range: young people - old people no in between wherearetheycomingfrom: coming from different shops, if you market retail its gonna attract, if you market sustainability its gonna be sustainable, to attract customers they want efficiency, fast services, some people dont come in for the service but then stayforit tips: display some pieces for attracttion and inspirationbutthinkthroughwhathappensafterwith unusedmaterial

MudJeans

successful agerange:18-80yearoldclientele do they want to sell in our store: doesn't want to sell in our concept as they don't want to overproduce,ourconceptdoesn'talignwiththeirs tip:theyofferafree,unlimitedrepairsystemwhichbuildstrustforthecostumerandmakes themhookedonthebrand wherearetheycomingfrom: peoplebuyfromdifferentplacesallaroundtheworld

AllThings Mochi

successful age range: clientele consists of young and older people40+ where do they come from: tourists and most people from Netherlands because here sustainability is all around would they work with us: collaboration is a big thing andwouldbeinterestedinworkingwithourconcept tip: people like the story behind clothing nowadays, buyingclothesthatalreadyhavevalue

REFLECTION

The field research gave us answers to every question we set before going which was an accomplishment I feel as though it was really nice that we got such a variety of answers onlyfrom3shopsaswellasanotobeingaskedifthebrandwouldworkinourconcept It isimportanttoberealisticnomatterhowmuchyoulikeyourownideas

OurassumptionsofbeingasuccessfulsustainablepractisemallinAmsterdamcametrue, researchshows Moreofourassumptionswereprovedtobecorrect,forexample,theage range of the average consumer being 20-60 years old as well as the idea of attracting touristsasmuchasdutchnationalsbecauseofthembeingveryopenmindedtotheidea of sustainability and sustainability being all around already in Amsterdam We also got an insight into the price examples in concepts similar to ours and were assured that our previousideasofpricelimitsandrangewerequitespotforouraveragetargetcostumer Overall, in my opinion this was a really great way of testing for our concept and making sure it will make the IMPACT we intend it to make Other than that we got real life examples and tips that were the most informing aspect of how to attract a customer, makethemstayandmaketheIMPACT.

Fashion psychology specialist and cofounderofHAJINSKY

The pursuit of selling newness - This lecture to me greatly with real life examples showed how much of puppets we are to psychology and how easy it is to appeal to a customer with the right techniques This also reminded me why I so much want to do branding, as you willseeIhavethemostnotesonthis lecturefromallofthelecturesprior

TermsthatIfounduseful: Loss aversion - new motivation to avoid losing it, more aware to not damageit

Endowment effect - the product perceivestohaveahighervaluejust after your purchase - if you have to selllbrandnewyouupthevaluebcit stimulatesperceptionofmorevalue

PakChiu

REFLECTIONON

Examples from the 6 point framework for

design Fiction - Japanese denim, with thewayitgetsbetterwithtimeandwearerhastodiscoverthepotentialandDetachmentwith wellies and trash bags as those are necessary products that are only for practicality These examples somehow stuck in my mind as I had never categorized products in my mind and knowing that I have an analyst mind I wanted to point these out as something thatmademethinkinthislectureaboutthepurposeandthenmarketingofeachproduct webuy

THETALK

Insightsonfieldresearch

For the research part of this project we did field research We came up with this idea of a way to test how successful the mall could be in real life by conducting research about existingsustainableshopsandpractices

With the research we were looking forward to define our target audience better and take noticeofthingslike:pricerangefortheoffertohaveacomparisonpointwhendecidingfor thepricesofourservices

Andsuccessintheirwords,wouldtheysaytheyaresuccessful,alsotohaveacomparison pointwhenunderstandingthesuccessofourconcept additional tips from their experience to gain insight into their experience into the industry andaskingiftheywouldbeinterestedinparticipatingandcollaboratingwithourconcept

Everystorewassuccessful,evenH&Mrepairwhichwewerescepticalaboutandwhichhas been around for the shortest amount of time We defined our target audience and some tips we got were for the marketing part of this project How to inspire, build trust in the customer - unlimited repair coupons, displaying inspirational pieces, which some of ideas wealsotookforourselves

Feedbackonconcept,prototypewearetakingwithusforward

Lookatpositiveandnegativeeffectsofeachfloorinthefuture (10years) Howcanwedirectittoourownbranding?Howarewegoingtobeunique? Definewhereexactlyshoulditbe?(suburb,city,immigrants)

Makesketches/personalizeit/identity Establishprices(compareinthearea)

Visionfortheprototype:

Whatarewedoingnext: 1 2

Wearegoingtobuildourprototypetodayafterthisclassfromcardboard Document ( both visual and writing ) that explains everything Like an evolution of the visual we already did But with location, prices, the images of the prototype with every aspectexplained

Thisweekstalksurprisedmebecausewewerethemostunpreparedwiththescriptandthe presentationsincefirstweeksandIwouldsayitwentthebest Theteachergaveusremarks on how proffesional it looked and that a lot of effort had been put in Maybe it was due to thefactthatourconceptiscomingtogetherbetterandbetterlatelyforusanditshowsto theviewer Wehaveaveryclearandstrongvisionofwhattodonextandalsohaveabase forthat,taketheprototypesketch

Somefeedbackwegotonourconceptduringtheweekwas: 1

Tolookatthepositiveandnegativeoutcomeofeachfloor

Nowwehaveinspirationmoodboard,remakethemoodboardmoreofimagesthatare curatedthatdonotshowtheideabluntlybutmoreabstractly Whatcolors,brandsaregoingtobeinthemall,why?

E E K 5

MAKING OF THE PROTOTYPE

Brainstorming beforethephysical makingofthe prototype,once againdiscussing andgoingoverthe experienceofeach floorbydoingthis wegainabetter viewofhowthe floorplansshould looklike

Wechoosethisformat-A4layoutforeachfloorplan,biggercardboardpiecesunderneath eachfloortoholdthemtogetherandalsotomoreeasilytakeaparttoshoweachfloor fromaboveandfromtheopenspaceontheside

WORKSHOP

Research. Concept Design

Buildingonanidea

OurProtoypedoescreatetheIMPACTwedesirebasedonthefieldresearchwedid Wehaveyettodosocialtesting-surveytestingofpeopleonthestreets Next we are planning on doing the surveys for older age groups on the streets and younger age groups online so we gather as much data as possible We plan on collectingabout200+answerdata

We all go to the Dam square and scout people and interview them, each of us, our minimumofpeopleinterviewedis20forthesocialtesting

Another testing part is going to be building a brand book that will include all of the aspectsofourconcept -logo,colours,brands,prices,allthehow'sandwhy'sanswered andgatheredinoneplace

Iwillbemostfocusedonthevisualaspectswhilerestonthewrittenpart

SELFREFLECTION

I did well on the visuals and creating a story with that Based on the fact that teacher Isabellecommentedonthatinweek4talkandthefactthatmyteamreliedandtrusted metodoeveryvisualpartoftheconcept Recently,IalsoreflectedonhowwellIstated my opinions and spoke about the parts in the concept planning that I did not agree with, I usually struggle with that not to push my opinions on others but I felt heard and respected in this team so I am really proud of my work and them making me feel that way

Icoulddobetterinparticipatingintheorganisation,whileAnnadidalltheorganisating, ifIfollowedthroughbetterwiththeplansshemadeand helpedhersometimesIthink ourteamwouldhavegottenfurtherbythispoint

Myrolewasvisualconceptplanning,Iwouldsay Detailorientedandnitpickproblems

COMING TOGETHER_DAY2 OFMAKING

SOCIALTESTING_1

Theothertestingformwecameupwiththatwouldbestsuitourprojectwasinterviewswith target audience online and in person Our location for the interviews was the city centre, where our mall would be focused With the online survey we were hoping of targeting younger people and for the in person interviews - older groups, similar to our idea of marketing - targeting older groups with street advertising and younger, with digital advertising

Togetheronlineandinpersonwegathered98answersintheagegroup18to40andwe asked7questionsregardingourservices.

Fromthefirsttypeoftestingonlinesurveyswegathered83answersoutofthem54were womenand29men.

Wechoseonlinetestingasthemaintypeoftestingwhencomingupwithquestionsforthe survey, we noticed that to test our concept on people we had to ask a lot of specific and sometimes broad questions to get the understanding of their shopping behaviour and explainthefullexperienceofourmall Thenwechoseonlinesurveysasthebestfitforlong sentencequestionsAlthough,toholdapersonsattentionspanitwasn'tthemostappealing idea,wedidhowevergetquitealotofresponseandpositive,pleasingly

Herearethestatisticsfor7questionsofthesurvey:

2 If our mall offered customized redesigning services for your clothing would you use this service?(basedoninspirationalimagesthatyoubringorwiththehelpofourdesigners)

3 Wouldyoubuyalreadyredesignedorupcycledclothinginourmall?

4 Ifyouwantedtogetridofclotheswouldyoubringthemtoourmallinsteadoftextilebins where the clothing would most likely end up in landfills? (We would recycle/redesign/resell themandexchangetheclothesforacouponinourmall)

5 Wouldyoubeinterestedinbuyingsustainablebrand’sclothinginourmall?(someofthe clothingbeingmadefromoldclothingbroughtinbycustomersandrecycledbyus)

6 Wouldyoubeinterestedinbuyingsecondhandgarmentswithoutbrandlabelsonthem inourmall?

7 Ifourmallhadadepartmentforrecyclingwouldyoubeinterestedinseeingandlearning howrecyclingworksinreallifeandrealtime?

REFLECTIONON SOCIALTESTING

Some shocking answers were to question 4 where the answer was 100% positive and if anything that was one of the most anticipated answer for our survey as the concept describedinthequestioniscrucialtobringingcircularityinourstore

Also that high of a percentage of negative answers in question 6 was the most confusing We included the specification of not including brand tags in our mall to avoid feeding into branddrivenshoppersbutlookingattheanswers Idounderstandhowontheotherhand brand labels and tags transmit not only the luxuarity level but also the quality, sometimes materials the brand is known for or other values that aren't necessarily only those brand drivenshopperslookfor Maybethelackofbrandtagsonclothingwillmakesomeadiences shyaway,alsolookingattheresearchstatisticitisclear,butIdostillthinkthatbydoingthat wearestronlyshowingourstanceandmotivweworkby

I still cannot figure out why there is quite high percentage of negative answers also on question 2 I think the service we are offering is appealing to everyone and the most "friendly" to those who cannot find their place in our mall, based on research turns out not Maybe the problem was in the phrasing of the question or miscommunication, misunderstandingbutmorethanthatIcouldseetheprobleminpreexistingsimilarservices that offer really conventional redesigns, like cliche, basic embroidery so, there for sure we shouldhaveshowedourideamorespecifically

SOCIALTESTING_2

Thisisanexampleonhowaninterviewwithapersoninreallifelookedlike:

Hi,weareaskingaroundsomequestionsfarsurveyforauniversityproject Canweaskyou somequestions?Wearegoingtoasksomequestionaboutshoppingbehaviourandtotest if our project which aims at reducing overconsumption and waste would be interesting to people

Ourprojectconsistsofamall,hereinthecenterofAmsterdam,wherepeople canexperiencea360sustainableshoppingexperience

Inourmallpeoplewillbeabletobringtheirgarmentstoberepairediftheyarebroken, redesignthemiftheyhavesomedamagedpartsorifthecustomerwantstoturntheir clothes into something new Or lastly they can simply leave their unwanted clothes with us, inexchangeforadiscountintheotherdepartmentsofthestore Theseclotheswillthenbe sold as secondhand, redesigned into new garments, or recycled into fabrics and new garments

Wewillaskyousomequestionstoseeifpeoplewillshopandusetheservicesweofferin ourstore

1Firstofall,Whatdoyouusuallydowhenyourclothesbreakoraredamaged?

Iftherewasanefficientandaccessibleserviceforrepairingyourclotheshereinthe centerofAmsterdamwouldyoubeinterestedinthatservice?

2 Doyouknowwhatupcycled,redesignedorreconstructedclothesare?(Ifno)They are clothes that are transformed into something different, by changing the shape, functionalityoraesthetic

Iftherewasaservicethatallowsyoutobringtheclothesthatforexampleyoudon't wearanymore,orfeelboring,andtransformthemintosomethingdifferentandnew Would you use that service? And would you buy already redesigned and upcycled clothing?

3 Whatdoyoudowhenyoudon'twearsomethinganymore,andforexamplesome clothesaresittinginyouwardrobefromalongtime?Doyouusetextilebins?

IfItellyouthatthegarmentswethrowinthetextileorcharitybins,mostlyinthe endstillendupinlandfillsorbeingsoldinthirdworldcountries,wouldyourathertakethem in a place here in Amsterdam where they won't pollute by being 100% recycled, sold as secondhandorupcycled?

4 Knowingthatthefashionindustryisoneofthemostenvironmentallypolluting industries,wouldyoubeinterestedinbuyingsustainablegarmentsmadeof recycledmaterials?

5 Doyoubuyorwouldyoubeinterestedinbuyingsecondhandgarments?

6 Almostfinished Wouldyoubeinterestedinlearningmoreaboutrecyclingby seeingwithyourowneyeshowitworks?

7 Lastquestion,IftherewasamallhereinthecenterofAmsterdamwhichcontains allthedifferenttypesofservicesthatIaskedyouaboutwouldyoubeinterestedin it?

As some on the questions were broader and more specific to their shopping behaviour thanonlinesurveyswegatheredsomethingaboutmostpeoplesshoppingbehaviour 97% of the people interviewed repair clothes after damage or their family members do it for them 97% also do redesigns on their clothing and are keen about that 97% also sell their clothingafteritisoverusedorgiveitawaytotheirfriends,3%giveitawaytobins 75% think that second hand shopping is expensive or do not like used clothing and also think that sustainablebrandsareunaffordablebutwouldbeinterestedinbuyinginourmall,which shows that already if our concept was realised we do create the IMPACT we desirechanging the regular shopping experience and view on that To conclude 99% of the interviewed people all are interested in our project and would visit, as mentioned by one "I wouldvisiteveryweektoseesomethingnew"

Wegathered15interviewsfromwhich9oftheanswererswerewoman,6men

REFLECTIONON SOCIALTESTING

I think the audience of social testing and online testing somehow differed a lot that is why therewasabigcontrastinanswers,forexample,whenaskedthesamequestion"Ifourmall had a department for recycling would you be interested in seeing and learning how recycling works in real life and real time?" people in the online survey answered 829% positivebut171%negative,whichforthenegativepartishigh,comparingtootherquestions, although in the real life surveys the question was answered 100% positively I do not understandwhatcausedthedrasticdifferenceinanswersforthisquestionbutsomehowit seemedmoreimportantthatpeopleinreallifeansweredsopositive

Overall, the social testing part of this project was beneficial in understanding the demand ofeachserviceandfloorinourmallandconfirmingthecustomerbase,whichtakingfrom research I would say is 30 year old, European, middle class women (mainly Dutch), It was alsoreallypleasingtoseethatourconceptdoescreatetheappealweintendedfromthe startandthatanypersoncanfindthemselvesaplaceinourmall,basedonresearch

Some things I think we could take into account for the next research like this could be specifying where each person we interview is from, where they reside and what's their social class , that way these questions would better define our target and define our research even deeper and clearer, make it more useful for not only determination of successbutalsootheraspectsofourbusiness

MARKETING

Asmentionedinthesocialtestingpartofthedocument"Withtheonlinesurveywewere hopingoftargetingyoungerpeopleandfortheinpersoninterviews-oldergroups,similar toourideaofmarketing-targetingoldergroupswithstreetadvertisingandyounger,with digitaladvertising"

JustlikeIwasmentioningofextendingtheresearchquestionnexttime,itwouldhavebeen useful if we had thought of asking where each target group of ours sees advertising the mostandthenputthatdatatousebycreatingmorespecificmarketingstrategies,butfor nowwehavemadethesemockupsofstreetanddigitaladvertising

INDIVIDUALSTORY

WhatinsightshaveIgained?

ThiswastheclosestIhavebeentocreatingsortofabusinessplanorabusinessconcept in general It was something far away from my interests It turned out to go smoother than expected Gaining knowledge about the chains in the industry and having the time to explore every aspect of a business start up, how sustainability can be incorporated and moreoverhowtogetclosertoacirculareconomy Iamverysatisfiedwiththeideameand myteamcreatedintheendwithalltheresearchandknowledge

WhatIresearchedabouttheValuechainsurprisedme?

Through the first weeks I learned what value, demand and supply chains are, prior I had no idea, so that was a first already Something that stuck with me was an example teacher gave us in a workshop about opening a print screen and how much it coststhemoreyouprint-thelessmarginadded,smallerpricethecustomerhastopay While itseemslogicalIhadnevergotthisspecificofaninsightintotheindustry

WhathaveIlearntaboutSustainability&Equityinfashion?

Sustainabilitycomesindifferent"sizesandforms" Itisincrediblydiverse,whiledoingthefield research I was content to get insight into all of these different forms of sustainability Also seeing the pure intent of sustainable brands and how they keep the customer and how it affects their image An example would be H&M repair service, while it is a sustainable concept,thebranditselfisnotstrivingtobe,soquotingemployees"Theserviceismorelike asidepiecetoH&M,nottheirtruemotiv"

Whataremyhighlights?

The symposium was one of my highlights as well as week 1's workshop and the field research trip These all connect by being really practical for my individual growth but then also the field research trip was really necessary to the growth of the project These all also have a connection of being unconventional ways of teaching, for example, in the symposiumallthatIsawandheardwasenhancedbythefeelingthatIwasoutsideofthe normalteaching space

DoIhaveastrongerideaofwhereIseemyselfwithintheindustryinthefuture?

Yesandthisisaninterestingquestionasinweek1'sreflectionImostlytalkedaboutthis

The toolshop, the workshop and symposium all intesified each other in ways where I could take what was the most necessary to build a stronger vision of my future The content of thefirstweekjustreallyspoketomeinaway

WhathaveIlearntaboutmyselfbyworkinginaTEAM?

IlearnedthatIhaveleaderpotentialinagroupbutIjustdon'tuseitandifIreallywantedto I could also organise, I just have to use all of my workforce I choose the easiest path for myselfandsometimesIshouldchallangemyselfwiththeroleIchoose

EXPLEC

Met Madhu and wanted to make something long lasting A that time everything lacked longevity Started making dresses from curtains, in India made first dresses from vintage clothing Cameoutwith7dressesandcalleditherfirstcollection Germanpresspickedup,thenhervoguearticledebutcame Fashion has always had a story - connecting, woman, land, spirituality but it has been long forgotten

Honouringthevaluechain Instead of cultural appropriation - cultural creativity - intentional co creation - visibilise thecultureyouareworkingwith Rethinkingmetricsofsuccess Workingcrosscultuversaly

JeanneMargotZizideKroon ZAZAVINTAGE

Fin.